Yucatán Magazine / Issue 15 / The Food Issue

THE FOOD ISSUE

N O. 1 5 $150 MXP / $8 USD

JEREMIAH TOWER Quality over hype

REINA DE LA TIERRA

Ganadería sostenible YUSUKE KOGURE

The rice whisperer DON FICO

El legado del padre

+ CASA

HENRY PONCE

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Modernist milestone

COCINA CALIENTE

MANO’s Robert Willson slices and serves L E M E A U A R R O T T-WAT T

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PÍA ROSADO

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FMT ESTUDIO

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E X P L O R I N G T E PA K Á N

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Montea goes beyond aesthetics. Functional projects are delivered based on detailed construction cost analyses and execute them responsibly.

índice ISSUE 15

Above, artisanal cheeses are served during luncheon at La Reina de la Tierra, whose owners are planning to expand their offerings.

Page 27.

PATRICIA ROBERT; FOOD STYLING: TONI BROGAN

THE FOOD ISSUE

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Jeremiah Tower

La Reina de la Tierra

El reconocido chef estadounidense, aún activo y disfrutando de la vida en Mérida, tiene grandes esperanzas para la cultura culinaria de la región.

Una visita a una granja donde un arquitecto ecológicamente consciente y un chef crían razas patrimoniales de ganado de manera sustentable.

The famed American chef, still active and enjoying life in Mérida, has high hopes for the region’s culinary culture.

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A visit to a farm where heritage-breed livestock are raised sustainably by an eco-conscious architect and a chef.

On the cover: Jeremiah Tower is photographed

by Patricia Robert at La Reina de la Tierra.

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The First Italian/ American Restaurant in Town

Calle 59 528 entre 64 y 66 Mérida Centro Histórico WhatsApp 999-326-5313 @lasiciliamerida

Mérida Centro Básica Sociedad Plaza Carmesí Calle 62 x 53

For sale online

Centro Cultural La Cúpula Calle 52 x 43

Décor Amor

Calle 42 x 55 y 57

Flamante Burgers

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Calle 64 x 47

Lalo’s Comedor Casual Calle 51 x 58 y 60

La Sala

Calle 60 x 43 y 45

Soho Galleries

Calle 60 x 41 y 43

... and at these fine places. ¿Quieres vender Yucatán Magazine? Escribe a: hola@yucatanmagazine.com

índice DEPARTMENTS

34 Henry Ponce

The prolific architect celebrates 30 years keeping Mérida modern.

40 On the Market

This Colonial Palace and its fabulous roof garden can be yours in Centro.

46 Annie and Murdoch

They haven’t forgotten where they are from and where they are.

Coffee with an inspiring backstory.

Page 16.

51 Explore: Tepakán

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Editor’s Letter

Café Cafico

La comida de hoy.

El legado aromático.

SEEN

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Yucateco vegano

Ramen shaman

Chef Yusuke Kogure takes the express to La Plancha.

22 Interview

13 ABRAHAM BOJÓRQUEZ

All the authentic flavors, none of the pork.

Wellbeing: Brian D. Mahan, SEP It’s not just about the food but the stories behind each meal.

Catching up with Robert Willson.

BACK PAGE

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Gelato in the forecast

Artifact: 1939

Anna Cetti pulls authentic flavors from the region’s bounty.

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The first in a series of rare travel posters from the 20th century.

A sweet, unspoiled pueblo makes for a great escape from city life.

57 FMT: Posmoderna

A family home reimagined through strategic design.

61 Interiors: Lemeau

Fearless design inspired by a life of travel.

66 Books: Pía Rosado

Revealing what’s behind closed doors where Centro homes were renovated.

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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Lee Steele VISUALS EDITOR

Patricia Robert SENIOR EDITOR

ROOF CAT MEDIA

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

S DE RL DE CV

CONTRIBUTORS

Russell Andrade Amy Bello Abraham Bojórquez Toni Brogan Richard Leo Johnson Arturo González de Alba

Brian D. Mahan Eva Lucía Reyes Moreno Manolo R. Solís Jamart Urial Peres Eduardo Vázquez Neil Youngson

CIRCULATION & DISTRIBUTION

Alejandro Pinto Tolosa

President Lee Steele General Manager Yesica Benitez Marketing Consultant Beth Oden Brand Outreach Bryan Dearsley Account Representatives Maria Sarantopoulos-Harp Fernanda Toler US & Canada Accounts Melissa Adler Executive Assistant Manolo Lago

P R I N T E D I N Y U C ATÁ N, M E X I C O

PARTNER WITH US

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Founding Partners Lemuel Lake Steele Pablo Arroyo Díaz

SUBSCRIPTIONS, BACK ISSUES & MERCH

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YUCATÁN MAGAZINE® AÑO 4, NÚMERO 15 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados por ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

La comida de hoy

PATRICIA ROBERT

 Para nuestra edición de Comida, exploramos lo

inesperado en esta cambiante región de México que se ha convertido en un centro internacional de comida artesanal y prácticas sostenibles. Desde una amplia variedad de opciones culinarias hasta una sorpresa única: el mejor arroz y ramen, servido en un vagón restaurado de Ferrocarriles Nacionales de México.

Presentamos tanto al famoso expat de Mérida, el Chef Jeremiah Tower, como a los rancheros que redefinen la producción de cerdo y cordero de razas tradicionales a través de prácticas sostenibles de pastoreo.

En nuestra sección Casa, celebramos la riqueza arquitectónica de Mérida. El arquitecto Henry Ponce cumple 30 años preservando casas de estilo moderno de mediados de siglo.

También revisamos la evolución del audaz hogar maximalista de Lemeau Arrott-Watt desde su debut en 2017.

Además, Pía Rosado y Eva Lucía Reyes presentan su más reciente libro, Mérida: A Puertas Abiertas, que revela interiores ocultos de la ciudad y evoca los preciados recuerdos de infancia de Pía.

Desde una gastronomía innovadora hasta diseños inspiradores, esta edición captura el espíritu dinámico de la escena cultural de Mérida.

THE NEWSLETTER

Lee Steele

MORE FROM YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Director, Yucatán Magazine lee@roofcatmedia.com

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 For our Food Issue, we’re exploring the unexpected in this rapidly evolving corner of Mexico, now an international hub for artisanal foods. From an expanded array of culinary options to a surprising twist: the best rice and ramen, served in a restored Ferrocarriles Nacionales de México railcar.

We introduced Mérida’s renowned expat, Chef Jeremiah Tower, to ranchers redefining heritage breed pork and lamb through sustainable grass-fed practices. On the flip side, two young local chefs create a vegan Yucatecan feast, in once case with hibiscus flowers.

In our Casa section, we celebrate Mérida’s rich architectural scene. Architect Henry Ponce marks 30 years preserving Mid-century modern homes. We revisit Lemeau Arrott-Watt’s bold maximalist residence, tracing its evolution since 2017.

Additionally, Pía Rosado and Eva Lucía Reyes unveil their latest book, Mérida: Behind Closed Doors, offering a glimpse into the city’s hidden interiors and Pía’s cherished childhood memories.

From groundbreaking gastronomy to inspired design, this issue captures the spirit of Mérida’s dynamic cultural landscape.

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CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

THE FOOD ISSUE

All aboard for ramen Chef Yusuke Kogure makes a station stop at La Plancha YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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SEEN

 When asked what makes him different from other chefs, Chef Yusuke Kogure does not miss a beat.

“I am obsessed with rice; it needs to be perfect — there is no middle ground.”

Kogure explains that, despite popular belief, rice preparation requires exceptional attention to detail at every step and can be extremely tricky.

“You can cut the best tuna in the world flawlessly, but if it’s paired with sub-standard rice in the preparation of sushi or any other dish, all you are doing is wasting quality tuna or whatever else.”

Kogure has come a long way from his native town of Sapporo, Japan, and his days as a culinary arts student and part-time fisherman.

Now Kogure is praised as one of the premier Japanese chefs on the Yucatán Peninsula, with three restaurants bearing his name — Cancún and Tulum and now an express version at Parque La Plancha in Mérida.

Kogure gives off the energy of a fun-loving person who does not take himself too seriously but focuses on mastering his art form.

After leaving Japan in his twenties, Chef Kogure

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began working at restaurants in New York, more often than not with Mexican cooks, from whom he developed his Spanish skills and eventually an unmistakable Mexican accent full of slang and chilango turns of phrase.

Kogure then worked across Mexico at restaurants in Chihuahua, the Riviera Maya, and Mexico City, where he established a working relationship with famed Chef Issho Sonoda, who helped him further refine his skills.

After being made a chef and consultant for Xcaret’s hotel restaurants, Kogure says he began to see the region's potential, leading him to open restaurants in Cancún and Tulum, both of which became instant hits.

Then he saw an opportunity to set up shop in Mérida’s La Plancha park.

Considering that Kogure Express is squeezed within a refurbished mid-20th-century railcar, one may be justified in assuming that the food’s integrity might be compromised. One look at the kitchen at work dispels any such trepidation. Despite its relatively small size, Kogure and his executive chef, Diego Armando from Mexico City, pull off culinary miracles. ­— Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

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CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

Kogure Express puts out big flavors from inside a refurbished railcar. Here, the owner hired Chef Diego Armando, of Mexico City, to run the compact kitchen.

WELLBEING Brian D. Mahan, SEP

Savoring self-discovery WHERE EVERY BITE TELLS A STORY OF TRANSFORMATION “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well.”

— Virginia Woolf  Ah, the gastronomic odyssey of an expat in Yucatán — a journey that elevates mere nourishment to a profound exploration of self-discovery. Every meal in this vibrant land serves as a portal into the rich tapestry of culture and history, inviting us to confront our identities and assumptions.

Armed with nothing but a fork and an adventurous spirit, you set out to navigate the local food scene. Cochinita pibil may be delicious, but when it comes to habanero salsa — described locally as pica or picante — that’s where the real test lies.

The fiery heat can quickly reveal your tolerance level, much like the challenges of expat life itself, where each experience pushes you to expand your comfort zone.

Picture this: your first encounter with relleno negro. It’s not just a dish; it’s a Rorschach test in a bowl. That inky black broth stares back at you, challenging your preconceptions about what food should look like. This rich stew made from burnt dried chiles and turkey exemplifies the fusion of cultures, combining Indigenous ingredients with Spanish techniques.

Traditionally prepared underground for a smoky flavor, it embodies the culinary heritage of Yucatán and is a reminder of the region’s complex history. In these moments, you realize that living here isn’t just about changing your address — it’s about expanding your palate, your mind, and sometimes your waistline.

But here’s the secret ingredient to genuinely savoring Yucatecan cuisine: It’s not just about the food but the stories behind each meal. Every plate is a chapter in the grand narrative of this region, inviting introspection and connection. As you dive fork-first into papadzules, you’re not just eating but engaging with centuries

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of tradition that invites you to reflect on your journey. Of course, this gastronomic adventure isn’t without its challenges.

Digestive disturbances can sometimes accompany your culinary explorations — an unfortunate reality when navigating unfamiliar ingredients and hygiene practices. While most experiences are harmless, it’s wise to be mindful of what you’re sampling; maintaining gut health is essential in this new environment.

Yet amidst these trials lies an undeniable joy. There’s something magical about bonding with locals over a plate of salbutes that can make even the most homesick expat feel like they’ve found their tribe.

It’s in these m oments — salsa verde bursting with flavor and dripping down your chin — that you realize home isn’t a place; it’s a feeling often garnished with pickled onions.

There’s a famous quote from the Broadway show Mame: “Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death!” Anyone moving here must remember to bring something to the buffet beyond just a chair and a bib.

Brian D. Mahan is a Somatic Experiencing Practitioner (SEP) who comes to Mérida via Los Angeles. Brian is a teacher, lecturer, and the author of I Cried All the Way To Happy Hour —What To Do When Self-Help Or Talk Therapy Haven’t Really Helped. Learn more about healing trauma and toxic shame at briandmahan.com

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SEEN

Anna Cetti is taking Mérida’s ice cream culture by storm.

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ENTREPRENEUR

La Heladez: Gelatos Yucatecos in the forecast

BOTH PAGES: PATRICIA ROBERT; THIS PAGE: FOOD STYLING BY TONI BROGAN

Anna Cetti pulls flavors from the region’s bounty  Anna Cetti creates gelato under the name La chocolate using local cacao, and a pepper-based Heladez, a play on words that Yucatecos will recgelato that changes taste as it’s consumed or kept ognize as their term for cold weather. The name frozen over time. Another flavor incorporates ramón seeds, a nutrient-rich crop once harvested is both a linguistic joke and a nod to her artisan by the ancient Maya. approach to frozen treats, reflecting her commit“The more I get into it, the more I feel like I am ment to local culture and ingredients. scratching the surface,” Born to an Italian Anna says of her craft. father and Irish mother, The business, started just Anna’s culinary backover a year ago, doesn’t ground was shaped early operate a traditional storeby family traditions. Her front. Instead, she supgrandfather, a chef at a plies restaurants and runs hotel in Lake Como, influa monthly subscription enced her appreciation for service where customers food. “I think all Italians receive selected flavors. are a bit obsessed with She even creates custom food,” she says, recalling flavors, including a recent family traditions of project developing a unique mushroom hunting and gelato for a wedding couple. elaborate dinner parties.

Her culinary philosAfter studying philosophy extends to her family. ophy in the UK and Italy, “If I give her really Anna spent four years in great food, maybe she’ll Turin, a city known for just not want to eat loads its ice cream culture. Her of crap,” she says of her approach to gelato differs approach to her 6-year-old from many producers. daughter’s diet. The strategy “I didn’t want to be seems to have worked—her part of this industry daughter prefers octopus to that buys mangoes from typical children’s foods and Sudan, processes them finds commercial chocoin a factory, and stuffs lates too sweet. them with sugar and ‘ THE MORE I GET INTO IT, Anna’s current favorite colorings,” she explains.

THE MORE I FEEL LIKE I AM creation is a vegan chocInstead, she focuses olate gelato. “I don’t even on using local Yucatán SCRATCHING THE SURFACE.’ know how I did it,” she ingredients, believing admits. “I put an absurd the local fruits are “so amount of chocolate into the ice cream.” Her commuch better than anything you could ever posmitment is to local ingredients, using local honey sibly buy.” and vanilla that she describes as “amazing.”

Currently distributing to nine restaurants, As the local food scene develops and matures, Anna operates from a functional laboratory Anna represents a growing approach to artisan she candidly describes as “not very sexy—just food production that celebrates natural flavors of rubber aprons and headlights.” Her product Yucatán. — Lee Steele line includes honey-sweetened gelatos, vegan

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FAMILY STORY

El legado aromático de Fico Navarro Amor, café y familia en una tienda de Santa Ana TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY POR ABRAHAM BOJÓRQUEZ

 En una Mérida en plena era de

 Café Cafico has been a staple in Mérida’s Santa Ana neighborhood for over 25 years. Founded by Federico “Fico” Navarro after a professional career setback, the café became a hub for coffee lovers. After his passing four years ago, Fico’s daughters, Eloisa, Mercedes, and Esther, took over, preserving his legacy while modernizing the business. They learned to roast coffee and manage operations, overcoming challenges with creativity and teamwork. The café thrives, blending tradition and innovation. The memory of not only the coffee, but Fico’s warmth and gentle smile, continues to inspire his family and the community.

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cruces culturales, un pequeño negocio familiar yucateco abre de lunes a sábado en la zona de Santa Ana en el centro. El aroma a café tostado que despide el local por la mañana se ha vuelto parte de la rutina para quienes viven y trabajan en los alrededores.

Café Cafico se encuentra a una cuadra del Paseo Montejo y a media del Parque Santa Ana. Desde hace un cuarto de siglo, caminantes, vecinos y curiosos se detienen ahí para recoger su café molido o tomar una taza de espresso. Federico Navarro, el fundador de Cafico, era un anfitrión legendario que disfrutaba cuando la gente se detenía a platicar un rato.

Hoy Fico ya no está ahí, pero quienes lo conocieron dicen que aún pueden sentirlo. Eloisa, Mercedes y Esther, sus tres hijas, continúan lo que su padre empezó.

Tomar las riendas de Café Cafico ha sido para ellas una experiencia de amor, duelo y sanidad en partes iguales.

Don Federico trabajaba en aduanas en los años noventa. En la crisis de 1994 se quedó sin empleo.

Su padre lo llevó a las sierras de Chiapas, Oaxaca y Veracruz en busca de un buen proveedor de grano de café para vender y poner su propio negocio.

Ninguna de las hermanas Navarro tiene claro cómo surgió la idea de vender café o por qué. Ninguna recuerda que su padre fuera particularmente adepto a beberlo.

Lo que sí recuerdan son los costales de café apilados en el comedor de su casa, desde donde Fico inició su negocio. Él lo hacía todo: tostaba el café, lo molía, lo empacaba y los repartía a sus clientes. Para 1999, ya tenía el local en el centro. En ese entonces, el nombre del negocio era Café Árabe de Altura.

En los años siguientes, la familia Navarro experimentó una ruptura.

El divorcio de sus padres provocó un distanciamiento entre Fico y sus hijas que sólo se restauraría cuando ellas comenzaron a tener hijos. Por mucho tiempo, Elo, Meche y Teté se enteraban de muy poco acerca de la vida de su papá.

Esos fueron los años de consolidación de Café Cafico, durante los

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From left, Eloísa (Elo), Esther (Teté), and Mercedes (Meche) keep Café Cafico going.

cuales Fico disfrutaba de atender a la gente en su local. Lo visitaban locales, foráneos, extranjeros y turistas. Él se dedicaba a conocerlos y a aprenderse sus gustos para cuando regresaran. A unos les tenía listo el periódico, a otros les servía de inmediato su bebida preferida. En la zona se le conocía como el cafetero de Santa Ana y llegó a ser muy querido.

Fico se acercó de nuevo a sus hijas. Ellas lo notaron cambiado.

Hicieron un chat familiar de papá y sus hijas, en donde él les narraba su vida diaria y reportaba actividades como la cantidad de ejercicio que había hecho en el parque y lo que había comido, como si se tratara del noticiero de la tarde.

En eso estaban cuando un der-

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rame cerebral les arrebató a Fico.

Sucedió en la cafetería y de inmediato reconoció lo que le estaba sucediendo como lo mismo que le había dado a su hermano unos meses antes. La ambulancia tardó mucho tiempo en llegar. Cuando lograron hospitalizarlo, ya estaba grave.

Los siguientes días fueron de incertidumbre. Aunque lúcido al principio, a Fico se le fue escapando la vida del cuerpo. Ya inconsciente, sus hijas le reproducían los mensajes de cariño y ánimo que le enviaban sus clientes, quienes también eran sus amigos.

Mercedes relata lo que le dijo a su papá mientras lo cuidaba en el hospital: “Si quieres que nos quedemos con Cafico, nos quedamos con

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Cafico”. Como si hubiera sentido un gran alivio al escuchar eso, al poco tiempo Fico partió.

Las hermanas Navarro nunca dudaron acerca de la decisión de hacerse cargo de la cafetería, pero tampoco tenían la menor idea de cómo operarla. Ni siquiera sabían tostar el café. No sólo eso, sino que todas tenían empleos en el ramo de la educación, además de parejas e hijos. Algo que aprendieron en esos días es que un negocio no espera al dolor y la confusión de perder a un ser amado. Al día siguiente ya había pedidos con los que había que cumplir.

Al principio, todo era caos y confusión. Consiguieron que una cafetería cercana les tostara el café para los primeros clientes. Después, el primo del esposo de Teté les enseñó a tostar, tal y como Fico le había enseñado a él años atrás. El primer día, las hermanas lo observaron mientras usaba la tostadora.

El segundo día le ayudaron y el tercer día lo hicieron ellas solas.

Al verlas exhaustas, su mamá les sugirió que se turnaran para ir dos días cada quien, en vez de que estuvieran ahí metidas las tres todas las tardes. Poco a poco, la nueva normalidad de Cafico y las hermanas Navarro fue tomando forma.

Elo, Meche y Teté fueron encontrando las pistas que Fico les había dejado esparcidas aquí y allá. En el teléfono de su papá localizaron las conversaciones con los proveedores de café y el contador. En la cocina encontraron bolsas con muestras de los diferentes tostados. Por todo el local había libretas con instrucciones y apuntes precisos hechos por todos los estudiantes a los que Fico había enseñado a tostar en los más de veinte años que despachó en la cafetería.

La gente desfilaba preguntando por Fico y sus hijas tenían que revivir la historia de su partida una y otra vez. A cuatro años de su muerte, sigue llegando gente que no se ha enterado de lo que pasó.

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FAMILY STORY

‘ NOS HEMOS UNIDO MUCHO MÁS COMO HERMANAS. A VECES PASABAN SEMANAS SIN VERNOS, AHORA TODOS LOS SÁBADOS NOS VEMOS, PLATICAMOS, CHISMEAMOS’.

C afé Cafico roasts in-house, with the aromas often reaching the sidewalk.

Como un rompecabezas, las hermanas han podido reconstruir la vida de su padre a través de los testimonios de la gente cuyas vidas él tocó. “Conocimos todo lo que él era que no nos tocaba a nosotros vivir”. La mayor sorpresa fue descubrir cuánta gente lo quería, desde locales a quienes les invitaba el café cuando eran estudiantes hasta extranjeros que regresaban años después para retomar alguna conversación fascinante.

“Nos hemos unido mucho más como hermanas. A veces pasaban semanas sin vernos, ahora todos

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los sábados nos vemos, platicamos, chismeamos”.

El sábado por la mañana es el día en el que las tres hermanas se reúnen en Cafico para tostar y planear los pendientes. Entre semana, encuentras a una de ellas de 4 a 6 de la tarde.

La cafetería mantiene el espíritu de Fico, pero ellas le han puesto su toque. Ampliaron el menú de bebidas. Cambiaron el pizarrón que usaba su papá por una lona grande y visible en el centro del local. Han hecho crecer las redes sociales del negocio.

En una conversación de WhatsApp olvidada en el teléfono de Fico, encontraron un logotipo que un cliente le había regalado pero que él nunca había usado. En el centro del logotipo circular aparece el semblante amable del cafetero de Santa Ana. Hoy la marca lleva ese rostro en sus vasos, letreros y etiquetas como homenaje a un hombre que, sin ser perfecto, les dejó a sus hijas la fórmula de la felicidad.

“Creo que se murió porque cumplió todo lo que quiso. Mi papá desayunaba delicioso todos los días, hacía ejercicio todos los días, se dormía temprano. Disfrutaba. ¿Quién puede hacer eso?” dice Teté.

Ahora los clientes también preguntan por ellas. Con los años, han seguido la labor de su papá más allá del café, tejiendo relaciones de estima con toda la gente que se acerca al local atraídos por el aroma. No ha sido fácil combinar sus vidas y trabajos regulares con el negocio, pero el amor y el respeto por el legado de su padre las mantiene ahí todos los días.

A veces hablan con Fico, cuya presencia se percibe en el lugar. Si tuvieran que adivinar qué pensaría él de verlas a las tres llevando la cafetería, están seguras de que le haría mucha gracia.

Café Cafico, 58 entre 49 y 47, Mérida Centro; IG: @cafecafico

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ENTERTAINING

Yucateco vegano Hibiscus Pibil and other vegan delights from an El Pueblo dinner party

A vegan tamal packs a surprising punch that stands up to the traditional variety.

 Yes, even in the land of meat lovers, a Yucatecan meal can be plant-based — even vegan. A dinner party for friends and neighbors at El Pueblo guesthouse held such an affair. Here’s how the in-house chefs brought the right flavors while staying true to host Daniel Cecil Hemingway’s commitment to whole food, plant-based living. Below, from left, are Chefs Antonio Uribe, Alfonso Tejero, and Johnny Vargas. They explain:

FIRST COURSE Charred Onion Petals • •

LEE STEELE

• • • • •

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White onion Nixtamalized corn dough Pumpkin seed Yucatecan lime Cashews Xcatic chili Garlic

For this special night, the charred onions symbolize an offering that unites our ancestors. We fry the corn dough until it reaches a semi-crispy texture. Then we crush and mix with grated lime and a cashewbased aioli with roasted Xcatic chili and garlic.

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ENTERTAINING

SECOND COURSE Hibiscus Pibil Panucho

• Nixtamalized corn dough • Black beans • Hibiscus flower • Red onion • Yucatecan cucumber • Local avocado • Red recado or achiote We traditionally prepared our tortilla, cooking it on a comal and giving it a light deep-fry. We substituted pork with hibiscus flower, marinated it in red recado, and followed the traditional Yucatecan cochinita cooking method.

It is accompanied by pickled red onion, cucumber, and a creamy avocado.

100% vegan. On this night, we wanted to show that it is not only a snack but a magnificent blend of flavor and history. We followed traditional methods to preserve its pre-Hispanic origins.

THIRD COURSE Sikilpak

• Pumpkin seeds • Habanero chili paste • Roasted tomato • Local cilantro • Sour orange juice Combine the above to make sikilpak, a star dish in Maya culture, and naturally

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ENTERTAINING

FOURTH COURSE Vegan Tamal

• Nixtamalized corn dough • Achiote seeds • X’pelon (bean variety) • Oyster mushrooms • Jackfruit • Vegetable broth • Banana leaves • Cocoa butter • Tomatoes • Epazote • White onion • Habanero chili Fill the corn dough with a mix of mushrooms and jackfruit in a pibil style, served with tomato sauce. Traditionally, the dough is prepared with pork lard, and the filling is made with chicken and pork. We used cocoa butter as the fat agent. For the filling, we sought a texture and flavor that is distinctly Yucatecan. The mushrooms served as pork rind and meat, while the jackfruit mimicked shredded pibil chicken. This is how we achieved the texture and flavor of a traditional Yucatecan tamal.

DESSERT COURSE

Pumpkin Tart and Pibinal • Pumpkin • Cinnamon • Clove • Piloncillo (unrefined cane sugar) • Pibinal corn, crumbled • Wheat flour • Coconut oil Pibinal means “buried corn,” derived from the Mayan words píib (buried) and nal (corn). The pumpkin sweet cream is traditionally made with cow’s milk, but in our search for a vegan version, we used cashew milk infused with pibinal corn cobs. When heated, this infusion thickens, resulting in a very creamy texture. For the topping, we shucked and dehydrated the corn kernels, then transformed them into a crumble to accompany our tart.

Written with assistance

by Jamart Urial Peres.

El Pueblo: elpueblomerida.com

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You’ve been running MANO for several years now. How’s it been going?

It’s been almost three years since MANO came out of the oven. I’ve learned much about the culture and people of Mérida.

And I always say I do it for the joy of working with what is now my family of friends.

You have been an actor, an interior designer, and in food service and development ­­— ­­ and now this. Is there a common thread here?

Between all these endeavors, it would have to be a desire to work with collaborators and strive for creative fulfillment. And, of course, working with my hands. Yes, I was an actor in Los Angeles in my youth, but like most actors, I spent my time in restaurants. But for me, it was in the kitchen — primarily small French and early California cuisine restaurants.

Can you tell us about the early years?

I got in on the ground floor of a Beverly Hills catering business, which grew over the next 12 years. I was the executive chef to a level of national recognition. From there, I was involved with an international food conglomerate in the Netherlands, which allowed me to expand my horizons and work in Europe and the US. Which, of course, is great but can become overwhelming when traveling weekly. Then, weekly wasn’t fun after Sept. 11.

What was life before Mérida like?

David [Serrano, his artist husband] and I were always collectors of vintage furniture, and in 1996, we opened Downtown, a 20th-century furniture gallery in the Los Angeles Design District. This eventually allowed me to change course and travel only when I wanted. We enjoyed our time in the gallery for more than 24 years. Then we decided to come to Mérida.

Tell us about your plans for the future.

Would you ever open a storefront?

We have plans to expand MANO to its own location in the not-too-distant future.

Fingers crossed!

Nothing plain vanilla comes out of MANO’s kitchen.

IG: @mano.mid.yuc.mx

INTERVIEW

MANO a MANO Actor, designer, baker extraordinaire: 5 questions for Robert Willson

One Slow Food Market mainstay has been Robert Willson, whose tarts, cheesecakes, crumbles, and other handmade treats sell out each Saturday. We asked him to put down his mixing spoon long enough to answer five quick questions.

Robert Willson is on the hot seat in the MANO test kitchen.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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THE FOOD ISSUE

Jeremiah Tower’s search for something

better The legendary American chef champions technique over Instagram hype in Yucatán’s evolving food scene

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TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

hef Jeremiah Tower, often called one of the pioneers of modern American cuisine, has lived quietly in Mérida for over a decade.

He built his reputation decades ago at Stars in San Francisco, helping shape California cuisine and, by extension, the national culinary scene. Today, settled far from his former restaurant kitchens, Tower reflects on the region’s food landscape, its markets, and the state of cooking in an age obsessed with appearances and social media.

“When I talk about American food, it was always about the wonderful ingredients,” he says, recalling the era when freshness, seasonality, and quality guided him. “It’s always been about ingredients and always will be.” Now, in Mérida, he finds himself searching for that same inspiration.

“Shopping in Mérida is not so inspiring,” he admits, with the exception of the pork and lamb he finds at the Slow Food Market on Saturdays — see story on Page 28. “I’d love to see agriculture and farming become more

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‘It’s always been about ingredients and always will be.’

JEREMIAH TOWER

established in the Yucatán. I mean, there are enough pig farms around here, so there’s enough manure to build up compost. Real farming could happen, and we could see better produce.”

Tower is not one to mince words. He’s direct and occasionally blunt, especially when discussing what he sees as the modern culinary world’s shortfalls. “Instagram is the other thing that’s destroyed [cuisine],” he says. “All they can think of is what it’s going to look like on Instagram.” Appearance over taste is something he can’t accept.

“You put a sprig of rosemary stuck into something—what am I supposed to do?” he asks. “Take it apart myself? That’s your job in the kitchen. The endless little microgreens on top of everything, most of which taste disgusting if you eat them by themselves, are horrible.”

For Tower, cooking remains fundamentally about technique and understanding flavor—not about elaborate plating or fleeting trends. “Can you cook an omelet?” he says, quoting his late friend Anthony Bourdain’s test of a true cook’s skill. “Stop talking, and

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In his constant hunt for superior quality ingredients, Chef Jeremiah Tower finds himself invited for lunch at La Reina de la Tierra, a farm in rural Tahmek, Yucatán.

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COCKTAIL HOUR Jeremiah Tower & El Cabrón More recipes at yucatanmagazine.com/drinks-with-jeremiah-tower

Mezcal makes it more delicious

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njoying a sunset by the pool at our oceanside apartment in Puerto Vallarta, we were struck by thirst. “Let’s make Old Fashioneds,” I suggested. Then I realized we’d run out of bourbon but had mezcal on hand. The result was a smokier and more delicious version of the classic cocktail. It’s been one of our favorite cocktails ever since.

A few days later, we were dining at Joe Jack’s Fish Shack in the center of town and the bartender asked what we’d like. We ordered a mezcal Old Fashioned. I walked him through how we had made them. His were perfect and delicious, and so much so that Jack, the owner, stopped by and wanted to try one as well.

Then, for a long time after, it was on the menu: “JT’s mezcal Old Fashioned.”

Mezcal Old Fashioned • 1 teaspoon agave or simple syrup • 2 dashes Angostura bitters • 2 ounces El Cabrón mezcal • orange twist Put the agave or simple syrup, Angostura bitters, and mezcal into a chilled “bucket” glass and stir. Fill with ice cubes. Garnish with an orange twist.

Cornmeal Blinis with Smoked Fish

Mezcal Cucumber Shooters These shooters were created to impress guests at the Pebble Beach Food & Wine Festival, where the order of the day was something fast and simple, but with big impact. Almost all of the other staff were underwhelmed when I said we were serving shooters, but soon, there was a line out the door. Serves 10 • 1 large English cucumber • 9 ounces mezcal • ½ cup fresh lime juice • 1 piece of fresh ginger, about 2.5 ounces, peeled, coarsely chopped • fine sea salt • 3 tablespoons fresh mint leaves coarsely chopped • ½ teaspoon fresh red serrano or Fresno chile seeded, stemmed, ribs removed, minced Peel the cucumber and cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Cut one of the pieces in half lengthwise, seed, cut into small dice, and reserve for garnish.

Transfer the remaining cucumber pieces to a blender with the mezcal and purée with lime juice, agave, ginger, and a pinch of salt. Add the mint and pulse 5 to 6 times to incorporate. Let the flavors infuse for 30 minutes. Strain the contents through a fine-mesh strainer, cover, and refrigerate until cold. Pour the mezcal mixture into chilled shot glasses, and garnish some of the reserved diced cucumber and the minced chile.

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Preheat the oven to 200°F. Remove the zest from the orange in strips with a vegetable peeler, being sure not to include the white pith. Lay the zest in a single layer on a plate and place it in the oven until dry, about an hour. The peel must be completely dry. Remove the plate from the oven and let the dried zest cool. Toast the peppercorns in a hot but not scorching frying pan until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Dump them out immediately onto paper towels and allow them to cool. Mix the rind, peppercorns, and salt together. Grind in a spice mill or food processor with a very sharp blade until uniformly smooth.

Chef Jeremiah Tower prefers El Cabrón mezcal after he was introduced to the limited quantities released in 2024. It will be available again in early spring 2025.

Sour Orange-Sichuan Pepper Salt In a moment of madness I might flavor the rim of the Negroni glass with this salt, especially with an El Cabrón mezcal Margarita or Old Fashioned. But it is also perfect for tropical fruit, eaten Yucatecan style, or sprinkled on food just before serving. You will become addicted to flavored salts and figure out endless variations yourself. Any of the citrus family will work, although I have my doubts about grapefruit salt unless you use it on fruits, especially tropical ones or watermelon. Flavored salts will last a month in a covered jar without losing too much potency. Proportions are not written in stone but think of two-thirds pepper and one-third citrus peel. And why not add a little bit of cumin, cardamom, or fenugreek?

• 1 large Seville orange • ½ cup Sichuan peppercorns • 2 cups kosher salt

As irresistible as food can get. Serves 6 • 1 cup yellow cornmeal • ½ teaspoon salt • 1½ cups boiling water • 2 eggs • 1 cup milk • ½ cup sifted all-purpose flour • 2 tablespoons melted butter • ¾ cup warm clarified butter • 3 tablespoons sour cream • 1 cup smoked sturgeon or other available fish, shredded • Chilled El Cabrón mezcal Mix the cornmeal and salt, and stir in the boiling water. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then slowly stir in the milk.

Mix in the flour and melted butter; beat until smooth. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream.

Brush a well-seasoned crêpe pan with clarified butter and heat. When the pan is hot, pour in about 3 tablespoons batter and tilt the pan to distribute the batter evenly. Cook until the underside is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook the other side for another 1 to 2 minutes. Put each blini on a hot plate and pour 3 tablespoons of clarified butter over the blini. Put 1 tablespoon sour cream in the center of each blini, then 1 heaping tablespoon sturgeon on the cream and serve immediately. Have a shot of the mezcal, wait a few seconds, and follow with the blini. 

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‘It’s about creating something sustainable, honest, and good. That mission never ends.’

JEREMIAH TOWER can you cook?” He believes many young cooks today get lost in culinary showmanship, forgetting the basics. “That shouldn’t be a mystery, but it’s a rare thing now.”

His formative food experiences were rooted in the simplicity of ingredients. Tower recounts the moment as a child — captured in the documentary The Last Magnificent — when a beachcomber he encountered grilled just-caught barracuda over an open fire, realizing that cooking could be both exciting and liberating. “That was the beginning,” he says. “Being on my own on the beach, grilling fish that had just been caught — that was so fascinating. It helped that I was left on my own. It was freedom, and it was fresh.”

He’s also encountered restaurants that seem more focused on décor and social media presence than on satisfying meals. “There are places that want to be for authentic, traditional Mexican, local cuisine. It’s their version, which is fine, but don’t say that if it’s not really that.”

Still, there are moments when local flavors catch him off guard in a good way. He recalls tasting black chili paste prepared by Maya cooks in the jungle. “I thought, ‘What is that mess?’” he says.

“Then I tasted it, and I thought, ‘This is world-class,’ because the flavors keep going and going and going like any great food.” The same goes for papadzules and cochinita pibil when made the traditional way. “If it’s done right, it’s extraordinary,” he says. But shortcuts mean that essential steps get lost. “People leave out what grandma used to do. Without that,

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Andrea Dykstra gives Jeremiah Tower a tour of the heritage-breed farm she owns with her husband Gregory. More about the farm on the following pages.

you lose the depth of flavor.”

His vision for improvement in Mérida’s food scene returns to the importance of farming and quality ingredients. He imagines a range of products that could thrive if handled well, from better poultry to specialty crops. “If only someone would just do one thing really well,” Tower says, referencing a Parisian bakery that became famous for a single sublime apple tart. “That’s what I’d love to see here—just pick something and do it perfectly. People would flock to it.”

At 82 — which he says is

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“fantastic!” — Tower is not done thinking about the future of food.

Up next is an appearance at an Ojai, California, Food + Wine Festival, where package prices start at around $4,000 per person.

Tower appears fascinated by how the dining public has changed, how restaurants have evolved, and how technology shapes what’s on the plate.

“It’s about creating something sustainable, honest, and good,” he says. “That mission never ends.”

Jeremiah Tower posts weekly at jeremiahtower.substack.com

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THE FOOD ISSUE

root Sustainability takes

An architect and a chef build a thriving, eco-conscious ranch, blending old-world traditions with modern sustainability

TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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ndrea and Gregory Dykstra did not set out to run a full-scale ranching and artisanal food operation when they arrived in Yucatán. They had always dreamed of a place with space, a sustainable food supply, and a healthier lifestyle. Yet, as often happens, circumstances guided them toward a path they had not fully anticipated.

Originally from the United States — Andrea from Pennsylvania and Gregory from Michigan — the couple met in Philadelphia. “It’s both of our second marriage,” Gregory says. “I had three kids previously, just divorced, and I was out with a friend at the Four Seasons bar in Philly. That’s where we met.” Gregory was, and remains today, an architect specializing in designing and planning zoos — an unusual line of work that sparked some conversation on their first encounter. The rest is history.

They later settled in Philadelphia, where Andrea managed various culinary roles over the years. “I’m a chef,” she says. “I’ve done every aspect — front of the house, back of the house, corporate catering, private cheffing. I studied in France for a while. It’s come full circle now that we’re here.”

Their move to Mexico began with more modest ambitions.

“We came down here for day trips, and we loved it,” Andrea says. After selling their home during the COVID-19 real estate surge, they found themselves drawn to Mérida. They purchased a home in Centro and started looking for land outside the city. The idea was simple: grow a few vegetables, maybe keep some animals. After several false starts with raw properties, a friend mentioned a ranch and its herd of 300 animals for sale.

Located near the small community of Tahmek, about a 45-minute drive east of Mérida, the ranch they purchased spans about 12 acres. It’s not a region known for large-scale agriculture: the thin, rocky soil and intense year-round heat make conventional farming challenging. Still, Andrea and Gregory believed in a regenerative approach. “We believe in building healthy soil,” Andrea says. “We compost on-site, use natural mulches, and avoid chemical

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Andrea and Greg Dykstra grow grasses for feed at La Reina de la Tierra in Tahmak.

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RECIPE

Ground Lamb Marquez with homemade harissa and a dry roastedspice blend This version of a classic dish uses ground lamb for a quicker cooking time and a softer texture.

The vibrant harissa and fragrant spice blend remain the stars of the show.

Yield: 4 servings Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes For the dry spice blend Lunch at the ranch was Lamb Marquez • 1 tbsp cumin seeds over pasta, paired with an Agua Hechicera • 1 tbsp coriander seeds Grenache from Baja California, Mexico.

• 4 cloves garlic, peeled • 1 tsp caraway seeds • 1 tsp dried chili flakes • 2 tbsp tomato paste • 2 tsp paprika • 1 tbsp lemon juice • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • Salt and pepper to taste For the harissa paste For the lamb • 1 red bell pepper, roughly chopped • 1 lb ground lamb • 1-2 red chilies (depending on heat • 2 tbsp olive oil preference), roughly chopped • 1 large onion, diced • 2 cloves garlic, peeled • 1 can (14 oz) diced tomatoes • 1 tsp cumin seeds • 1 cup lamb or chicken broth • 1 tsp coriander seeds • Fresh cilantro, chopped (for the • 1/2 tsp caraway seeds garnish) • 1/4 cup olive oil 1. Prepare the dry spice blend: Toast the cumin, coriander, garlic, caraway seeds, and chili flakes in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant (about 2-3 minutes). Transfer to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. Stir in paprika and cinnamon.

2. Prepare the harissa paste: Preheat broiler. Place the bell pepper and chilies on a baking sheet and broil until charred, turning occasionally. Once charred, place the peppers and chilies in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let steam for 10 minutes. This will make it easier to peel off the skins. Peel the skins off the peppers and chilies. In a food processor or blender, combine the peeled peppers and chilies with the garlic, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, caraway seeds, olive oil, tomato paste, and lemon juice. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Cook the lamb: Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large pot or Dutch oven.

Add the ground lamb and cook, breaking it up with a spoon, until browned. Add the diced onion to the pot and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the dry spice blend and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the diced tomatoes, lamb broth, and half of the harissa paste. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low, cover, and cook for 15-20 minutes or until the flavors meld. Serve the ground lamb Marquez hot, garnished with fresh cilantro and a dollop of the remaining harissa paste.

Serving suggestions: Serve over pasta, couscous, rice, or crusty bread to soak up the delicious sauce. A side of roasted vegetables or a simple salad complements this dish well.

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pesticides. We’re working toward closed-loop systems where everything on the farm contributes to something else.”

They soon learned that the previous owners sold their products at the local Slow Food Market in Mérida, a hub where conscientious consumers meet sustainable producers.

The original plan was simply to maintain a smaller version of the ranch. “We told everybody we’d downsize it,” Andrea says. Instead, “we’ve just embraced it.” With that, La Reina de la Tierra — “The Queen of the Earth” — was born. “It’s not about me,” Andrea says of the name.

“It’s about Mother Earth because without her, we have nothing.”

The ranch’s livestock thrives outdoors, fed with pesticide-free grasses. Their heritage-breed pigs, adapted from Iberian stock, root through the soil, stay healthy without antibiotics, and handle the Yucatán heat. “This pig is, by far, the animal of the future,” Andrea says.

“Super heat-tolerant, never gets sick. You can’t compare the flavor.

It’s just incredible.”

Selling lamb and pork directly to customers came naturally. At the Slow Food Market, customers find cuts of lamb, cerdo pelón, and prepared dishes like slow-cooked lamb shanks and savory pork ragouts.

They are commercial providers, as well. High-end restaurants like Anima on the Calle 47 gastronomic corridor and Anonima in Col. México, are customers.

The pair also began making artisanal cheeses. “I couldn’t find good feta,” Andrea explains. “I started making it at home, and soon people wanted more.” She sources cow and goat milk brought in from areas like Tizimín, a known dairy region.

Over time, Andrea has developed a range of European-style cheeses that incorporate local herbs and showcase the flavors of the region.

Gregory’s background in architecture and zoo planning helps him

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FOOD STYLING: TONI BROGAN

THE FOOD ISSUE

Heritage-breed lambs and pigs have plenty of room to roam on the range.

envision the ranch’s layout and long-term potential.

“I enjoy planning how we’d develop parts of the land, what we keep fallow, and how we integrate the animals and crops,” he says.

They are experimenting with cover crops, composting animal manure, and slowly building soil health.

One day, they hope to integrate greenhouses to grow vegetables year-round, protected from heavy rains and intense heat. “It’s about creating something sustainable,” Gregory says, “for ourselves, our workers, and anyone who believes in honest food raised with care.”

The ranch’s Commissary kitchen in Mérida’s Centro is another step toward their goals. It began as a place for Andrea to process meats and craft cheeses, but she envisions it becoming a culinary lab.

“Maybe once a month, do a small event, invite guest chefs,

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break bread together,” she says, envisioning ways the Commesary might evolve. She’s already experimenting with smoking local vegetables and meats — using local woods — and preparing small-batch sausages and smoked eggplant.

Like many small regional producers, their online presence helps keep customers informed.

They announce appearances at the Slow Food Market, highlight newly prepared dishes, and share images of their livestock and fields. The ranch’s customers appreciate this transparency. “People like knowing exactly where their food comes from,” Andrea says.

A growing team supports all of this. “I’m seven days a week,” Andrea says, laughing at her workload. They’ve hired assistants to help with butchering and fermentation, teaching them skills they can use for years to come.

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“These guys are like family,” Andrea says. “It’s a legacy thing for us — carrying on what the previous owners started, keeping people employed, and feeding families something that’s good and honest.”

In many ways, La Reina de la Tierra is part of a broader movement across Yucatán and Mexico at large: a return to small-scale, mindful food production. It aligns with the Slow Food ethos and resonates with a community that values flavor, health, and sustainability.

Andrea and Gregory’s journey to being full-fledged ranchers — with more to come — illustrates how passion and principles can guide unexpected transformations.

“We never planned on this,” Andrea says. “But sometimes, the best opportunities come when you embrace what’s in front of you.”

IG: @la_reina_de_la_tierra

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MADE BY MEXICAN ARTISANS

C A L L E 19- #201D B 22 Y 24 • G A R C Í A G I N E R É S C .P. 97070 M E R I D A , Y U C

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HENRY PONCE: 30 AÑOS HACIENDO ARQUITECTURA

ON THE MARKET A CENTRO PALACE COMPLETE WITH A ROOF GARDEN OPEN DOORS CHRONICLING THE BEST CENTRO RENOVATIONS ANNIE AND MURDOCH STITCHED INTO MÉRIDA’S FABRIC OPEN SPACES TEPAKÁN’S QUIET CHARM

HENRY PON YEARS PRESERVING MÉRIDA’S MODERN SOUL 34

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CE TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PORTRAITS OF HENRY PONCE BY PATRICIA ROBERT YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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HENRY PONCE: 30 YEARS

Henry Ponce has spent three decades crafting a vision that goes far beyond architecture and design. “I would love to be remembered as somebody who really loved the city and worked to try to make the city better,” he reflects, encapsulating a career dedicated to more than just constructing buildings.

Ponce’s path to architecture was anything but predetermined. Growing up in a family of seven children – three boys and four girls – he had no immediate connection to design. “My dad works in insurance, so I didn’t have any connection, period,” he explains. Yet, even as a child, he was inexplicably drawn to construction sites. “I even got friends with the albañiles, and they used to teach me how to mix concrete. So I enjoyed it so much that I even made my own mixes with concrete at home.”

His early experiences with the Boy Scouts further shaped his design sensibilities.

“I was in Boy Scouts for 13 years,” Ponce recalls. “They used to do construction fests, and I used to get all these prizes from doing construction just with sticks – like campgrounds, gates, scenes, bedding in trees.” These early experiences were more than just

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Above and below, a recent Mérida Showcase of Homes tour highlighted Henry Ponce’s skill at restoring dynamic, Mid-century modern buildings for both office use as well as residential living.

It’s not just about architecture – it’s about a style of life and philosophy.”

HENRY PONCE

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HENRY PONCE: 30 YEARS

childhood play. They were the first inklings of his architectural approach.

When it came time to choose a career, mathematics played a crucial role.

“I was doing good in mathematics, and the only career I thought of that was related to mathematics was architecture,” he says. But it was more complex than just numbers. “I’m more into the creative part,” Ponce adds, revealing the dual nature of his architectural passion.

Local architecture trends during Ponce’s early career was dominated by historical mimicry: new construction designed to recreate a hacienda or Colonial home. “Building something new that looks old,” as Ponce puts it.

Commercially, developers were creating what he describes as cookie-cutter developments with tile roofs and imitative styles.

But Ponce found inspiration in maverick Mexican architects who defied these trends. “Luis Barragan represents clean lines,” he explains. “But more importantly, his architecture talks about our culture, which is interesting. He was one of the most successful architects of his period, but at the same time, he was connected to our traditions and culture.”

A pivotal moment came with a project that would define his career.

“I had a friend who was an investor,” Ponce recalls, “and he said, ‘Why don’t you buy a house and do whatever you want?’”

The result was a transformative project on Calle 64 – a bold reimagining of a traditional space. “We did a loft that kept the only two original rooms with wood beams and big doors and high ceilings,” he says. “Everything else, I tore down and made my own version.”

The project was a critical success, earning multiple awards and attracting clients who sought something different. “We got a gold medal in the Biennial in Yucatán, a silver medal nationally, and I got a lot of work from people coming with magazine articles saying, ‘We want a house like this.’”

Over the decades, Ponce’s approach has become increasingly refined.

“More and more these days, it’s very hard for me to include things that don’t have any reason to be in a project,” he explains. “If it’s there, it has to have a function.” This philosophy extends to traditional design elements like breeze

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walls. “A Mexican breeze wall has to have a reason to be there,” he insists. He eschews decorative elements like water features.

His current project in Col. Chuburná, the Centro de Arte & Diseño de Yucatán, better known as CADY, represents a culmination of his architectural philosophy. “We’re creating a community related to that lifestyle – people that care about art, design, good food, and good living,” Ponce explains. The complex of 59 units, integrated with an art center, reflects his belief that architecture is about creating environments, not just buildings.

As he reaches 30 years in practice, Ponce is working on a book that will document Mérida’s architectural evolution. “It will talk about the importance of preserving historical architecture in the city,” he says, “but also show my work after all these years.” When discussing Mid-century architecture, Ponce becomes particularly passionate.

“It’s not just about architecture – it’s about a style of life and philosophy,” he explains. “After the Second World War and the Industrial Revolution, everything changed. Electric appliances came. The concept of residential complexes changed. It was a revolution in the way people live.”

His approach is fundamentally about creating timeless design. “Good architecture is timeless,” Ponce argues. “If you do something just because it’s fashionable now, in a few years, it will look out of date. But when you do something based on function, without copying, just following the concept of your project – that’s what matters.”

Despite the challenges of promoting modern design in a city often resistant to change, Ponce remains optimistic. “I think we’re getting to the point that people are learning,” he says. “But we need to put more effort. Architects, especially senior architects, have to talk about the importance of saving this architecture – architecture that talks about the history of our city.”

As he reflects on 30 years of practice, Ponce’s message is clear: architecture is about more than buildings. It’s about understanding a place, its people, and its potential. “I want to show that the city is not just the historic district,” he says. “There’s so much more to explore.” 

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Above, Henry’s future plans include his most ambitious project to date: the Centro de Arte & Diseño, better known as CADY. It will combine art galleries, a cultural center, and condominiums on Col. Chuburná.

Opposite top, Henry’s homes are known for crisp, clean lines, strong angles, and air flow. Below that, Henry at the beginning of his career.

About the firm Henry Ponce’s services encompass architecture design, construction, interior design, property management, and real estate sales. www.henryponce.com www.hponcehomes Instagram: @hponcearquitectos @hponcehomes

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LUXURY LISTING

SHOW STOPPER The Colonial Palace, a highlight of a major house-and-garden tour, comes on the market in one of Mérida’s hottest neighborhoods TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEIL YOUNGSON

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estled in the vibrant Santa Ana neighborhood, a stunning colonial palace on Calle 66 has become the talk of Mérida’s real estate market. Recently showcased at the Mérida Showcase of Homes, this luxurious property is now available for purchase, capturing the imagination of discerning buyers seeking grandeur and style.

Step inside, and your journey begins with a show-stopping feature—a dramatic reflecting pool running through the mansion’s central hall. This architectural centerpiece ensures an immediate and lasting impression. To either side, expansive spaces unfold, including a grand living room, formal dining area, and elegantly appointed bedrooms. The chef’s kitchen is a culinary dream, and the home’s pièce de résistance lies above—lush rooftop gardens perfect for

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unwinding or entertaining.

The Colonial Palace offers a turnkey experience, with nearly all furnishings included in the sale.

While the artwork will depart with its current owners, treasures like the long dining table remain, setting the stage for unforgettable dinner parties in your new home.

Location-wise, this property is a gem. A short three-block stroll takes you to Parque Santa Ana, while Parque Santa Lucía and the bustling Paseo de Montejo are just a few blocks further. Nearby hotspots include Hennessy’s Irish Pub and the celebrated Calle 47 foodie corridor, featuring acclaimed restaurants.

Architectural details abound, showcasing beamed ceilings, intricate columns, and elegant French pasta-tile floors. Custom hardwood shelving, shimmering chandeliers, and robust ironwork add touches of sophistica-

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LUXURY LISTING

tion throughout. Practical amenities include an electric garage door, a dedicated gym room, and spacious walk-in closets in the bedrooms.

For the culinary enthusiast, the kitchen boasts marble countertops and the warm tones of crema Maya stone, creating a perfect blend of functionality and style. With its unmatched combination of grandeur, convenience, and location, this colonial masterpiece promises to be more than a home—it’s a lifestyle statement.

The Colonial Palace is offered at Mexico International for US$2.2 million. See mexintl.com, property code 6396. Contact Colm at colmyucatan@gmail.com / 999-1696430 or Mitch at miguelsmexico@ gmail.com.

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COLONIAL PALACE

BY THE NUMBERS LOT WIDTH

20.64 Meters

LOT LENGTH

45.6 Meters

LOT AREA

825.88 Meters

LIVING AREA

1065 Meters

BEDROOMS

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BATHROOMS

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Plus: Gym, garage parking, solar panels, koi pond, and this amazing park-like garden on the roof.

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SPACES EXHIBITION VISIT US! Calle 60 400A x 41 & 43 Centro, Merida Open from Monday to Friday 10:00 - 17:00 Saturday 10:00 - 14:00

CONVERSATION

Threading the needle AFTER LEAVING LONDON AND RAISING A FAMILY IN NEW YORK, TWO LIFELONG TRAVELERS FIND THEIR HAPPY PLACE UNDER THE YUCATECAN SUN

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ith Murdoch Morrison and Annie Walwyn-Jones, stories unfold as naturally as a conversation over tea. Their life together spans decades, cities, and countries, woven with unexpected turns that have ultimately led them to a new chapter in Mérida.

TEXT BY LEE STEELE

“I came to New York in 1975,” Murdoch begins, a faint smile crossing his face as he reflects on the move from London, “It was an escape from England, really — from the coal strikes and the economic chaos of the early ’70s.”

New York offered something different, a place where Murdoch could reconnect with his American roots and carve out his path.

“My mother was American, so getting a green card wasn’t too difficult,” he says. “I just needed better career opportunities and a change of scene. But, really, I’m a bit of a mongrel — a mix of American and British with a smattering of everything in between.”

With a characteristic blend of humor and candor, Annie shares

her origins as well. “I was born in London and sent to boarding school when I was young. I think my brother and I were more like ‘tokens of fertility’ to our parents,” she says, half-wincing at the thought.

After boarding school, Annie was uncertain about her future.

“I wanted to be a lawyer, but my memory was terrible,” she recalls.

Instead, her parents sent her to Florence and the Loire Valley in hopes of “polishing” her.

“I think they were trying to make me marriageable,” she jokes.

“It was an odd time back then.

Where we came from, if you weren’t off to Oxford or Cambridge, you were off to secretarial school or flower-arranging classes.”

Their lives finally intersected in

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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Annie Walwyn-Jones and Murdoch Morrison at home in Mérida.

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CONVERSATION

‘ I THINK YOU NEED TO FILL YOUR TIME MEANINGFULLY. ...

WORKING WITH THE SHELTER, HELPING THE BOYS WITH THEIR EMBROIDERY — THESE THINGS FEEL IMPORTANT.” MURDOCH MORRISON

This page and opposite: Annie and Murdoch’s Centro home holds memories from their past lives.

New York, though they had shared mutual friends and even attended the same events in England.

“We’d seen each other in passing,” Murdoch says, “but we didn’t really meet until a cocktail party in New York.” Their friendship evolved slowly, merging into a partnership that took on a new depth with time. “We bought a loft, had children, and lived in Manhattan for 49 years.”

Both excitement and eventual disillusionment marked their long Manhattan chapter.

“I worked in structured finance — the reason for the last big crash,

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they’d say now,” Murdoch muses.

But over time, the Wall Street grind lost its appeal. “We started spending more and more time at our place in upstate New York and then started to look south, especially as January and February became harder and harder to face.”

Annie nods, adding, “We tried everything. We went to Sicily, Morocco — anywhere warm, really — but it just didn’t feel right.”

Eventually, they found themselves on the Yucatán Peninsula, which they had visited with their children in the early ’90s.

“We’d come down with the

kids,” Annie remembers, “and the place just had this faded grandeur — these beautiful, crumbling buildings, so much history.” Murdoch continues, “In 2014, we thought, ‘Why not try staying here for the winter?’ It was warm, welcoming, and, frankly, affordable.” The couple began visiting regularly, renting houses each winter. “After a few years of this, I thought, why don’t we find a place of our own?”

Murdoch says, and soon they were house-hunting in Mérida.

Despite the promise of a peaceful retirement, the process was anything but smooth after an initial “architect disaster,” Murdoch recalls. Our builders came to us and told us that the Centro house — typical in that it is constructed up to the edge of the property line — was designed three meters short of the actual length of the lot.

“We had to bring in a tape measure ourselves to prove it,” Annie says. With frustrations mounting, they took the reins to bring their vision of a light-filled, open home to

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CONVERSATION

Both the chimes from a grandfather clock and the chirping from Caruso the Canary bring life to this Mérida home.

life. The house they created reflects their long journey — a space filled with memories, heirlooms, and stories. “It’s funny,” Murdoch says, “how people who visit can recognize things from our New York loft or the house in the country. It’s like a map of our lives.”

The portraits on the walls, the grandfather clock and its soft, intermittent chimes, even the dining chairs — each piece holds meaning.

“Those Tibetan tables are from Murdoch’s family, and the corner cabinets are from my parents’ home in London,” Annie says, gesturing

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around. “We’ve always carried pieces with us. This home here is no exception.”

One of the most meaningful aspects of their Mérida life is their work with the local community. Annie and Murdoch became involved with a local refuge for young men in addiction recovery, where they introduced embroidery as a therapeutic activity.

“At first, I thought, ‘embroidery?

For a group of 20-something men?’”

Murdoch admits, “But they took to it instantly. Some of them are really talented. It’s calming for them, I

think. It has this way of focusing your mind. It’s very different from knitting — you can’t just drift off. It takes all of your attention.”

Seeing the young men dive into the work, Annie feels they have found a rhythm. “They’re proud of what they create, and that’s what matters,” she says. “We try not to push our own tastes on them, though I can’t help suggesting they try something other than anime characters now and then!”

Murdoch acknowledges the importance of staying active in retirement.

“I think you need to fill your time meaningfully,” he says. “Some people buy houses to flip, but that’s never appealed to us. Working with the shelter, helping the boys with their embroidery — these things feel important.”

Annie agrees, adding, “It’s funny, we made cookies for them each week, but now they’re so focused on their embroidery that they don’t even stop for cookies anymore until they have finished!”

“We’ve lived through our fair share of places,” Murdoch says, “but this one feels right for now.”

Annie smiles in agreement, casting a thoughtful look around the room that holds so many pieces of their journey together.

“You just have to embrace what life offers and find joy in it, no matter where you end up,” Annie says. 

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EXPLORE: TEPAKÁN

Aglow with lights, Iglesia San Antonio de Padua anchors Tepakán’s main square.

La vida pausada de un pueblo yucateco TEXTO POR ABRAHAM BOJÓRQUEZ |

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FOTOGRAFÍA POR RICHARD LEO JOHNSON

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EXPLORE: TEPAKÁN

The slow life in a Yucatecan pueblo

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ife moves slowly in Tepakán, a small village between Motul and Izamal. On a Saturday afternoon, we find the streets quiet, though families emerge to enjoy the central plaza as evening approaches.

The town’s buildings stand out for their vibrant colors – a mayor’s deliberate choice to break from the tradition of painting buildings in political party colors.

The main Franciscan church, painted in

Izamal’s characteristic yellow and white, holds crypts containing remains from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Once part of the Maya chiefdom of Ah Kin Chel, Tepakán’s modern history was shaped by the henequen boom. Later, the community turned to beekeeping and agriculture. Evidence of this transition is visible in an abandoned henequen hacienda, now surrounded by lemon and papaya trees. Supermarkets and restaurants are lacking, but a handful of foreign residents live quietly here, either fulltime or on weekends. The drive from Mérida to the pueblo is relatively easy.

For locals, beekeeping remains central to local life, with many families maintaining melipona bee colonies in their backyards. However, this tradition faces challenges – one resident showed us her single remaining bee box, the rest of her colonies killed by neighboring farmers’ agrochemicals. And a new residential development project threatens to bring urban-style housing to the village’s edge.

Yet for now, the village maintains its rural character, where life continues at its own unhurried pace. — AB

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Above, a renovated home blends with the center of town. Below left, life is tranquil between festivals and parades. Below, the colorful work of a muralista appears to glow in the evening light. Right, waiting for dinner at a taquería off the park.

High walls conceal some of the more grand homes of Tepakán.

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EXPLORE: TEPAKÁN

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a vida transcurre despacio en Tepakán. Este pequeño poblado entre Motul e Izamal mantiene vivo un Yucatán que se siente auténtico, alejado de la influencia y los ritmos de la ciudad.

Visitamos Tepakán un sábado y lo encontramos excepcionalmente silencioso. El calor del mediodía ahuyenta a los locales de los espacios públicos, pero por la tarde se puede ver a las familias disfrutando del parque y la plaza central.

Hay una cualidad de los edificios del primer cuadro que sobresale. Todos están pintados con colores vivos y combinaciones cromáticas audaces. Los funcionarios en la oficina municipal dicen que un alcalde decidió pintar así el pueblo como una declaración de neutralidad ante la obsesión de gobernantes pasados por pintar todo del color de su partido político. Curiosamente, en ciertos rincones del pueblo se pueden encontrar casas y bardas pintadas del color de los partidos y con las siglas de los mismos, como para que no quede duda alguna.

La iglesia principal tiene la clásica fachada franciscana que se repite con frecuencia por todo el estado. Está pintada con la combinación de amarillo y blanco que caracteriza a los edificios de Izamal. En su interior hay criptas con los restos de habitantes de Tepakán de los siglos XIX y XVIII. Alguna vez parte del cacicazgo maya de Ah Kin Chel, la historia moderna de Tepakán tiene sus raíces en la era del henequén. Su posición geográfica, cercana a la costa, permitió que haciendas como Tzalancab prosperaran.

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Cuando el precio del henequén se vino abajo, el pueblo tuvo que reinventarse mediante la apicultura y el cultivo de maíz, frijol y frutales.

Visitamos una antigua hacienda henequenera cuyos dueños actuales la utilizan para cultivar limón y papaya.

Junto al mar de árboles de limón están los restos del casco de la hacienda, abandonado y desvaneciéndose ante la falta de un incentivo económico para rescatarlo.

Un puñado de expatriados vive tranquilamente en el pueblo, que es conocido por su producción de miel y otros derivados de la melipona. Las propias familias de la comunidad obtienen estos productos con meliponarios instalados en sus patios traseros.

Una vecina amable nos mostró lo que queda de su apiario casero. Una sola caja, eso sí, repleta de meliponas, es lo que sobrevive de una operación que en algún momento ocupó la mayor parte de su patio. Los agroquímicos de sus vecinos agricultores mataron a sus meliponas, por lo que no les quedaron ánimos de resucitar su negocio. Según nos cuenta, este es un problema que cada vez más familias apicultoras enfrentan.

Aunque a paso lento, las influencias externas asoman en Tepakán. En años recientes, un desarrollador anunció la construcción de un proyecto residencial en las inmediaciones del pueblo. La arquitectura y diseño del proyecto no se diferencia en nada a los cientos de desarrollos que se construyen todos los días en el estado. En contraste, un neoyorquino rehabilitó una antigua casona y la ocupa junto a su pareja por temporadas. 

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ARCHITECTURE

A family home reimagined through strategic design

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ARCHITECTURE

A

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1980s residence underwent a comprehensive renovation by FMT Estudio, transforming the space into a functional family home. Architects Zaida Briceño and Orlando Franco addressed the building’s previous fragmented modifications through a pragmatic design approach.

The 350-square-meter home, situated on a 630-square-meter plot, was redesigned to improve spatial organization, lighting, and ventilation. The ground floor now integrates the entrance, pool terrace, and garden, creating a more cohesive living environment.

A two-story extension with a sloping roof was added, maintaining architectural continuity with the original structure. Sustainable materials were prioritized, including clay bricks for exterior floors and studio walls, and clay tile kitchen surfaces to enhance thermal efficiency.

The design preserved key original architectural elements such as wroughtiron details, entrance columns, and concrete terrace features. This approach created a balance between existing and new architectural components.

The color palette consists of neutral and warm tones, with green wroughtiron accents providing visual contrast.

Open staircase railings increase the sense of space, while the front gate design balances privacy and exterior views.

Trees native to the region were planted to integrate the home with its local environment. The renovation focused on creating a practical, adaptable living space that meets the family’s contemporary needs while respecting the building’s original character.

La Posmoderna demonstrates how strategic architectural intervention can transform a dated residence into a functional, comfortable family home.

Founded in 2015 in Mérida, FMT Estudio emerged from a collaborative vision of architects Orlando Franco and Zaida Briceño, who met during their graduate studies at the Universidad Autónoma de Yucatán.

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Project: La Posmoderna Studio: FMT Studio Architects: Zaida Briceño / Orlando Franco Design Team: Gerardo Vázquez Location: Mérida, Yucatán Completed: April 2023 Construction Area: 3,767 square feet Land Area: 6,781 square feet Photography: Amy Bello Detail Photography: Russell Andrade

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ARCHITECTURE

Their early work focused on residential and small commercial projects that challenged traditional design paradigms. Their practice also developed in response to the unique architectural challenges of a region characterized by often intense heat, humidity and damaging rays from the sun.

For Posmoderna, the ground floor transformation was particularly strategic. By integrating the entrance, pool terrace, and garden, the architects created a fluid environment. Expansive iron-framed windows maximize natural light and provide panoramic views, effectively blurring boundaries between interior and exterior spaces.

A two-story extension with a sloping roof was constructed to complement the original structure,

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demonstrating FMT Estudio’s commitment to architectural dialogue between old and new. Regional trees were planted to further integrate the home with its local ecosystem.

This approach reflects a broader mission for Franco and Briceño.

“We’re not just designing buildings,” Franco explains, “we’re creating environments that adapt to how families actually live and interact.”

Since La Posmoderna’s completion in April 2023, the project has garnered attention in architectural circles for its nuanced approach to residential renovation. It represents a growing trend in Yucatecan architecture that prioritizes sustainability, cultural context, and human-centered design. 

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INTERIORS

Designer without borders INSIDE LEMEAU ARROTTWATT’S EXUBERANT MÉRIDA HOME

TEXT BY LEE STEELE PHOTOGRAPHY

BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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INTERIORS

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Lemeau Arrott-Watt’s living room is a maximalist melange of color, with mementos of her travels set about.

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INTERIORS

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hen Lemeau Arrott-Watt purchased her Mérida home in 2007-2008 during the market crash, it was, in her words, “a wreck.” Today, the sprawling property showcases her fearless approach to color and pattern, drawing inspiration from her travels across India, Morocco, and Southeast Asia.

“I am not at all frightened of color,” declares Lemeau. “Nobody who has a beige room would ever hire me.” Her living room exemplifies this philosophy, with its striking combination of scarlet walls and deep oranges set against a foundation of intricate black and white tile patterns. “I’ve found the brilliant color here has to be tempered with white so it’s not overpowering,” she explains. “In New York, you can use four walls in a deep color, and it’s no trouble at all because of the weather. But here, I found you can’t do that and have an elegant space.”

The Australian-born designer’s path to interior design wasn’t direct. She began her career in fashion, serving as the first fashion editor for Vogue Australia before moving to New York, where she worked for the International Wool Secretariat. It was only after meeting her husband that she discovered her true calling. “I realized for the first time, because we didn’t have it in Australia, that there was a magnificent interior design world out there.”

Her Mérida home has grown considerably from its original footprint. “Six rooms of disaster,” she recalls of its initial state. Now the property has grown to include two casitas with their own pools and gardens. The design now reflects her philosophy that beautiful things will always work together. “I’m not frightened to throw in everything.

If things are beautiful, doesn’t matter what they are,” she says.

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‘ I’M NOT FRIGHTENED TO THROW IN EVERYTHING. IF THINGS ARE BEAUTIFUL, IT DOESN’T MATTER WHAT THEY ARE.’ LEMEAU ARROTT-WATT

“You can throw them in, and they still come out with a good-looking pedigree.”

Her design approach often mystifies clients who worry about mixing patterns. “They’re worried about this pattern not going with this pattern,” she says. “Nonsense, nonsense, nonsense. If it’s beautiful, doesn’t matter. It’ll go

together, it’ll work, or we’ll move it in so it works.” Interestingly, she observes that “the more pattern we put into a room, the less it shows up. It’s very funny.”

Throughout the home, classical furniture pieces provide anchoring points for her exuberant design choices. An Indian oxcart serves as a striking wooden accent in a climate where wood is often discouraged. The floors, a complex arrangement of black and white tiles, create what she calls “a decorative base that you can start from throwing in color.”

The private upper floor reveals a different mood entirely, with soft, pale colors creating a restful private space. Here, carved Indian doors lead to her bedroom, and a dedicated “cat kitchen” serves her two rescued snowshoe felines. Gardens grace multiple roof levels, filled with tropical plants that reflect her journey from English-style gardening to mastering tropical varieties.

Lemeau maintains an active design practice, working with select clients while publishing an online design newsletter that’s been running for 14 years. She regularly travels to major design shows in Milan, London, Paris, and New York, keeping her finger on the pulse of global design trends.

Lemeau’s approach to client work is deeply personal. “The person who buys the house is the inspiration,” she explains. “I have to pull it out of you. What do you really want?

How do you really want to live?”

This philosophy has served her well from her early days running a store on Bleecker Street in New York’s West Village to her current life.

“I’m going to give you color and fun and hopefully elegance as well to live with,” she says, summarizing her design philosophy. In her own home, she’s achieved exactly that – creating a space that’s both exuberant and livable, proving that with the right eye, there truly are no rules in design. 

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BOOKS

Behind Closed Doors

Mérida: A Puertas Abiertas / Behind Closed Doors

By Eva Lucía Reyes and Pía Rosado 271 pages, Hardcover, MX$1,500 (English/Spanish)

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n the heart of Mérida’s historic center, where centuries-old facades whisper stories of architectural transformation, two passionate creators have crafted a visual narrative that goes beyond mere documentation. Pía Rosado and Eva Lucía Reyes spent five years meticulously curating “Mérida: A Puertas Abiertas / Behind Close Doors,” to capture the city’s remarkable architectural revival.

The book emerged from an exhaustive process of exploration and selection. After examining over 30 restored homes, the authors carefully chose 18 properties that epitomize Mérida’s unique architectural spirit. Their primary criteria were simple yet specific: homes located in Centro that retained their original essence while

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embracing contemporary design. New constructions were deliberately excluded, ensuring the book remained a tribute to restoration and reimagination.

Pía Rosado brings a rich personal and professional background to the project. A retired landscape architect from Mexico City, she specialized in residential gardens, parks, and public spaces. Her 2018 book, Verde Mexicano: Private Gardens of Contemporary Mexico, showcased her deep appreciation for spatial design. Her connection to Mérida runs deep—she was born to parents from Yucatecan families, with roots tracing back to the illustrious Felipe Carrillo Puerto, a significant political figure in Yucatán’s history.

Pía’s personal journey to this project is as compelling as the book itself. Childhood summers spent in her grandparents’ home on Avenida Colón — now the Club de Leones — planted the seeds of her connection to Mérida.

In 2015, she returned to the city, drawn by its architectural allure and the vibrant transformation taking place

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BRUCE BANANTO

A WALK THROUGH 30 RESCUED, RESTORED HOUSES IN MÉRIDA’S CENTRO HISTÓRICO

PATRICIA ROBERT

Pía Rosado leafs through her book at Bruce Bananto’s Casa Xuna’an Kab-La Loggia in La Ermita Opposite: a dramatic arch stands tall in that home’s interior.

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BOOKS

MANOLO R. SOLÍS

Casa Pakaal was abandoned for years in the Santiago neighborhood before being rescued.

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ARTURO GONZÁLEZ DE ALBA

Quinta Alegría in La Mejorada joins two large Colonial buildings.

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in its historic center. Her own home in the Santa Ana neighborhood — light-filled and vibrant — stands as a testament to her design philosophy.

Her co-author, Eva Lucía Reyes, brings impressive credentials to the project. A graphic and editorial designer with over 30 years of experience in Yucatán, Eva previously collaborated with Fomento Banamex on monumental publications about Maya culture, regional haciendas, and Mexican folk art. She also designed the layout for Rosado’s previous book, marking the beginning of their creative partnership.

The book’s creation was far from straightforward.

The five-year development process was riddled with challenges—pandemic restrictions, logistical hurdles, and numerous setbacks threatened to derail the project multiple times. “From on-site photography to late-night chats about the cover design, every step has been worth it,” Pía reflects.

Historically, Mérida’s architecture follows a Spanish colonial tradition of inward-oriented design. Beauty is hidden behind modest exteriors, with true architectural marvels revealed only once one passes through the front door. Pía and Eva saw this as an opportunity to provide readers with an unprecedented master key to the city’s most extraordinary homes.

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The book chronicles a wave of architectural renewal that began in the 1990s. Pioneering architects and designers like John Prentice Powell, Josue Ramos, Josefina Larraín and Salvador Reyes Ríos initiated a remarkable transformation.

They rescued historic buildings, reinterpreting Colonial aesthetics for contemporary living and reversing decades of urban decay.

Featured properties include fascinating spaces like La Tropical, home to Mexican architect Carlos Huber and American plastic surgeon Andrew Timberlake, and Casa Olivia, a boutique hotel transformed by interior designer and chef Ivettte Beltrán. Each home tells a story of preservation, creativity, and architectural rebirth.

More than a visual record, Mérida: A Puertas Abiertas / Behind Closed Doors is a celebration of urban resilience, design innovation, and cultural preservation.

It invites readers to explore a city in transformation, where history and modernity dance in architectural harmony.

For lovers of design, architecture, and cultural preservation, this book is an essential addition to any collection—a window into the soul of Mérida, captured meticulously by two of Mexico’s most passionate documentarians. 

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FROM LEFT: EVA LUCÍA REYES MORENO, ARTURO GONZÁLEZ DE ALBA

From left, Casa Olivia exudes elegance and warmth while L’Ermita de Santa Isabel retains its monastic character.

This is what our gardeners have to deal with every morning.

Welcome to our floral urban oasis.

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El Pueblo. Your sanctuary in Mérida.

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Private Chef VEGETARIAN CUISINE - BIO 1.

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C 24 M 0 Y 43 K 61

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CALLE 56 439, SANTA LUCÍA, CENTRO MÉRIDA, YUCATÁN, MÉXICO ELPUEBLOMERIDA.COM

Luxury Guest House

ARTIFACT: 1939

 This 1939 brochure for Mayaland Tours evokes the romance of those bygone days when only a handful of tourists (more akin to explorers) would traverse the Peninsula on dirt jungle roads navigable only by rugged vehicles and long machetes. At least jaguar hunts are no longer a thing! — Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

 Impreso en 1939, este folleto de la empresa Mayaland Tours evoca el romanticismo de aquellos días ​​cuando sólo un puñado de turistas (más parecidos a exploradores) atravesaban las junglas de la península por angostos senderos, transitables sólo con vehículos 4x4 o a pie con machete. ¡Al menos ya no permiten la caza de jaguares! — CRvdG

From the Rosado van der Gracht Family Archive 72

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Colonial Palace us$2,200,000 # 6396 S E E MOR E p 40-43