N O .
The Yucatán’s Lesser-Known Gem
UXMAL
D E ST I N AT I O N S 36 Hours in IZAMAL + VALLADOLID • Take the First Train to PALENQUE UnCruising Around the SEA OF CORTEZ • Readers’ Favorite DAY TRIPS
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Instagram: @tersana.dermaceron | 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311
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Clínica Dermatológica Tersana | Dra. Itzel Cerón Calle 66, 548 between 65 & 67, Centro, Mérida 3
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Creative Director TREY SPEEGLE trey@treyspeegle.com
M A G A Z I N E
Publisher & Editorial Director LEE STEELE lee@roofcatmedia.com
CONVENT OF SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA, IZAMAL. PHOTO, PATRICIA ROBERT
Senior Editor CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT carlosrosado@roofcatmedia.com General Manager YESICA BENITEZ yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com Columnists YESICA BENITEZ BRIAN D. MAHAN Contributors WILLIAM FREJ CHRISTINA HOLMES DAVID MCILVANEY ARIN PEREIRA PATRICIA ROBERT GUIDO TARONI Marketing Consultant EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ Circulation & Distribution ALEJANDRO PINTO TOLOSA Roof Cat Media Co-Founder PABLO ARROYO DÍAZ Subscriptions subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com Advertising & General Information hola@yucatanmagazine.com
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Yucatán Magazine
AÑO 4, NÚMERO 13 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados de ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes.
CONTENTS 4 Editor’s Letter 7 SEEN: What’s On Our Radar 12 Ask a Yucateca 13 Just Asking: Favorite Day Trips 14 Food: Two Specialty Chefs 18
Wellness: Brian D. Mahan
PRINTED IN YUCATÁN, MEXICO
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FEATURES D E S T I N AT I O N S 10 A Tren Maya Excursion to Palenque 22 Uxmal: Yucatán’s Overlooked Gem 29 36 Hours in Izamal & Valladolid 35
UnCruise the Sea of Cortez
Y U C ATÁ N C A S A 42
Book: First Look at Inside Yucatán
44 Luxe Listing: Beach House Dream 48 Studio Visit: Claribel Calderius
ON THE COVER, THE YUCATÁN’S UNDERRATED GEM, UXMAL. PHOTO, WILLIAM FREJ. THIS PAGE, THE SEA OF CORTEZ AS SEEN FROM THE WRITER'S POINT OF VIEW. PHOTO, DAVID N. McILVANEY
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EDITOR’s Letter Slide Out of Home
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NE OF MÉRIDA’S advantages is archaeological site into view. Our senior how well it functions as a base for editor, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht, was travel. one of the first passengers to take the rails That fact was not lost on me when I first all the way there, and he has plenty to say studied maps of Yucatán. Thanks to our about it. beautifully renovated airport — it was kind Of course, the Peninsula itself suggests of meh when we first arrived over 13 years endless itineraries to explore the natural ago — we can quickly jet off to Mexico City, and man-made. Yucatán has particularly Havana, Miami, Dallas, lush examples of both. Houston, Atlanta, GuaPhotographer Patricia DAVID N. McILVANEY temala City, GuadalaRobert and friends spent REASSESSES HIS VIEW jara, Monterrey, Oaxaca, 36 hours in colonial ValON CRUISES AT THE Flores, and Toronto. If ladolid, Izamal, and the SEA OF CORTEZ I fly from Cancún, the vicinity. She always brings list of nonstop destinaa fresh perspective to tions is almost too long well-traveled destinations. to publish, but most Her travel diary will prove notably brings Europe enlightening. and South America Also in this issue, within reach. David N. McIlvaney takes Or just by car, we us to Mexico's opposite have beach towns of corner, to the Sea of Cortez, various stripes, and where he boarded the charming pueblos, Safari Voyager at La Paz. drivable on a network of There, he saw Cousteau’s mostly well-kept roads. “world’s aquarium” of The expansive port of whales and “flying tortiProgreso, where cruise llas” up close. ships and charter boats regularly dock, adds We could fill an encyclopedia with yet another dimension to our travel options. adventures that are possible with Yucatán as World events and family situations have your home base. If you’re still a little rusty, kept us from taking full advantage of Mériit’s time to dust off that suitcase and get da’s geographic advantages. Will this be the packing. I trust that this, our 13th issue of year we finally start exploring more of the Yucatán Magazine, will inspire you. Peninsula? More of Mexico? More of Latin America and the Caribbean? Of the archaeological sites, Chichén Itzá gets out-sized attention. It’s a modern marvel, after all … one of the “Seven Wonders of the Modern World.” That places it on a short list with the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China. It’s hard to top that. But here, we turn your attention to Uxmal, which is getting some buzz for expanding access to visitors to fascinating Palomar. And of course, now there’s a train line. We’ve covered its controversies extensively at yucatanmagazine.com, but for this issue, we’ll see what the upside brings now that we have tracks that connect the Peninsula’s Lee Steele popular and more obscure communities. Editorial Director The advent of the Tren Maya, or Mayan Yucatán Magazine Train, brings Chiapas’ famous Palenque lee@roofcatmedia.com
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UPCOMING TRIPS • Discover MEXICO CITY’s cuisine, archaeology, culture, and art
I S S U •EJungleN . 1 2CAMPECHE O U& QUINTANA T J A tourO of SOUTHERN ROON
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D I S C O V E R Y Join us Yucatán Magazine’s Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht on our exciting getaways to explore the very best Mexico has to offer. For more information, contact yesicabenitez@rootcatmedia.com
MADE BY MEXICAN ARTISANS
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AS PART OF THE CURRENT EXHIBIT AT THE MUSEUM OF LIGHT, LATE GERMAN THEORIST HARALD KÜPPERS DESIGNED CUBES TO ILLUSTRATE HOW COLORS RELATE.
From Mexican Pink to Mayan Blue, the Museo de Luz’s first exhibition is vivid indeed
Museum of Light
PHOTO: COURTESY
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QUARTER CENTURY after first becoming a cultural mainstay in the nation’s capital, the Museo de Luz opened up a new outpost in Mérida on Nov. 3, 2023. The science museum, a collaboration with the National Autonomous University of Mexico and the state government, is folded into the Parque La Plancha. Its first exhibit, “Color: Knowledge of the Invisible,” pulls its visitors right in. One room flash-freezes your shadow on a wall while another casts you in an amber light that practically erases all color from your skin and clothes. The exhibit addresses color as a physical, technological, cultural and psychosocial phenomenon. It starts with Isaac Newton’s contribution to the modern color wheel, and then touches on the science, historical and contemporary pop culture angle. We are shown how color and emotions are connected. At one point, a glass display case contains a 1970 color television set
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while another shows rolls of color film as museum artifacts. While still then we read on the wall that “color does not exist.” And yet it’s all around us. Just a little mind-blowing. This exhibition, with audio tours in Mayan, Spanish and English, was previously in Madrid, Caracas, Quito, Lima, and Mexico City. It was adapted for this country by incorporating information on the cochineal insect and its use in fabric pigment, the Mexican pink of the legendary Ramón Valdiosera, and the color television system invented and patented by Mexican engineer Guillermo González Camarena. The use of color in the Maya culture, which is forever connected to a bright azure-blue pigment, is blended into the presentation.
Calle 50 and 43, Gran Parque La Plancha, Mérida. TuesdaySunday, 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 to 8 p.m. Free on Tuesdays. dgdc.unam.mx/museo-de-la-luz 9
SEEN
ESTAR Y LIZA'S LEANNA STAINES, CENTER, GREETS YM LAUNCH PARTY GUESTS AT HACIENDA SUBIN.
Our ‘Celebrations’ Issue Benefit Pulls In Mucho Dinero
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PHOTOS: ARIN PIERIRA, CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
UCATÁN MAGAZINE’S “Celebrations” Issue 12 launch party raised 100,000 pesos (almost $US6,000) after an anonymous couple matched the event’s proceeds. The funds went to Ester y Liza, a nonprofit that provides spay and neuter services throughout Yucatán. “The donations and pure joy and enthusiasm around this event reflect the commitment people have to be a part of positive change for animal health and population control in Yucatán,” said Ester y Liza’s leader, Leanna Staines. “I’m very grateful to Yucatán Magazine for their support.” Over 70 people — including US Consul General Dorothy Ngutter and Dr. Carlos Cabrera— attended the event at Hacienda Subin, the private home of Richard Frazier and Laura Kirar. (See photo, right.) Our Creative Director Trey Speegle organized the party, which — in keeping with the event’s beneficiary — included an informal doggie fashion contest (also pictured right). Tiffany Thompson and Ted Habiger appeared on the cover after their wedding nuptials at Subin were photographed for the issue. Habiger, a Kansas City-Mérida chef, provided the food for our part. El Cabrón mezcal and tequila introduced their brand with custom cocktails. The proceeds cover the cost of 154 sterilizations, helping to stem unwanted growth of the stray dog and cat population in Yucatán. —Lee Steele MAR-APRIL 24
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PHOTOS: TREY SPEEGLE
HEDY FISCHER & RANDY SHULL WITH “VUELO DE YUCATÁN”
Shull’s ‘Siesta’
JOSHUE RAMOS & EMMA SLOLEY WITH “CENOTE MARIPOSA”
RANDY SHULL’s new work, bound for
Mexico City, gets a preview in Mérida
T
HE VAST SPACE in Santa Ana was once a garage. Today it’s Randy Shull’s art studio (IG: @shull.randy) which doubles as a gallery and would rival just about any in New York City or L.A. His Mariposa Siesta series is made with coloful hammocks, gesso, and paint. These pieces were headed for Alejandra Topete Gallery to show during Zona Maco in CDMX. “For seven years I have been investigating the hammock as a canvas. I love that it’s woven locally in villages to hold the human body —the essence of that is profound,” Shull says. Shull invited friends to view the work, so I paired up bodies, outfits, and colors and asked for their best art fashion poses. It’s a cliché, but it’s true: art comes alive in spaces with people. —Trey Speegle LAURA GARCÍA ANCIRA WITH “VUELO CONNEXION”
CONNIE & ROB YOUNG WITH “VUELO DE BARRAGÁN” & “VUELO DE NOCHE”
PAOLA JARAMILLO WITH “LUCHA O HUIDA”
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EXPLORE MX
Take the First Train to Palenque Now that the Tren Maya goes all the way to Chiapas, CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT takes the scenic route
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HE JUNGLE, PYRAMIDS, and great meals await. Early in the morning, the ancient city of Palenque in Chiapas and the nearby town of the same name are covered in a thick fog, which adds a sense of even more mystique to the ancient temples and jungle that dominate the region. Palenque has been a major tourism destination for decades, but with the arrival of the Tren Maya, folks are hoping that greater development will come to Me xico’s poorest state. Regardless of one’s feelings about the Tren Maya and the politics surrounding it, there is no denying that the trains make journeying around the Yucatán Peninsula a lot more comfortable than it used to be. That said, the train is still very much in a test phase, with several stations still being under construction,
FROM ATOP THE TEMPLE OF THE CROSS IS ONE OF THE BEST VIEWS OF PALENQUE FEATURING THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT 12
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which often causes delays. The trip from Mérida takes just over eight hours, while the journey from Cancún is closer to 13. Hopefully, those sleeper cars will be ready soon. Palenque was known as Lamanha during antiquity, which roughly translates as “big water.” Being engineers they were, the Maya of the city made use of the many surrounding rivers and streams flowing from the mountainous north to build sophisticated aqueduct networks to serve the city’s many palaces, residential areas, fields, and even steam baths. Though there is plenty of evidence that the origins of Palenque date to the 3rd century BCE, most of the architecture dominating its grand plazas dates to the Kingship of K’inich Janaab Pakal, also known as Pakal the Great (615 - 683 CE). Over the past couple of years, the archaeological site of Palenque has changed quite a bit, with visitors not being able to enter the site’s main Palace, while other structures, such as the Temple of the Sun and Pyramid of the Red Queen, are now open. Aside from the majesty of its Classical-era Maya architecture, the ancient city of Palenque is blessed with vegetation so beautiful, varied, and lush that one can imagine just about anything growing there. Modern Palenque has never been known for being particularly charming, but in recent years efforts have been made to beautify the city and transition its tourism industry from mainly backpackers making their way back and forth between Guatemala’s Petén region to a little more upscale clientele. While hostels and inns are still all over the place, so are fancy hotels with ameYUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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CHIAPAS CAN SEEM LIKE A WORLD APART WITH ITS LANDSCAPES, TRADITIONAL DRESS AND CUISINE MORE LIKE GUATEMALA THAN THE REST OF MEXICO. PALENQUE FEATURES HIGH-END DINING AND SHOPPING WITH MANY PEDESTRIAN FRIENDLY STREETS AND PATHS.
nities like spas and some exceptional restaurants. Many of these newer businesses in Palenque are on a leafy street known as La Cañada, teaming with the sounds of monkeys howling in the distance as well as what one could describe as too many parrots — if they were not so adorable. During our recent trip on the newly inaugurated Maya Train, we enjoyed several great meals ranging from taco stands and cafes, as well as some fine exotic dining at Restaurante Maya Cañada featuring wild boar, deer, and crocodile — as well as more traditional fare like tamales and taquitos dorados. Palenque is also a great hub to explore nearby attractions, including the waterfalls at Misol Ha and Agua Azul, as well as the nearby jungle of the Lacandon, a Maya people who during the conquest made their way deep into the woods to avoid enslavement and Christianization. The ancient history and traditions of Chiapas combined with its breathtaking landscapes — and some of the best coffee in the world — make for a remarkably romantic destination folks are sure to continue to gravitate towards for a long time. Aside from Palenque, the region is also home to several other impressive archaeological sites including Yaxilán, Bonampak,
and Toniná. However, after ongoing land disputes and some unfortunate dealings with organized crime, these sites are temporarily closed to the public. It’s a good idea to sort Google Map reviews by newest for the most up-to-date information. Violent crime in Palenque, especially targeted at visitors, is hardly common, though neither is it unheard of. Still, it’s important to be on the lookout for pickpockets, especially outside the more touristy areas. 13
ASK A YUCATECA A:
Q: How do I cope with my neighbors?
REGARDLESS OF WHERE you live, getting along with your neighbors can be challenging. Overgrown trees, noisy late-night parties, and barking dogs are nuisances no matter where you live. When it comes to creating positive relationships with your Yucatecan neighbors, my No. 1 piece of advice is not to wait for a conflict to present itself before you introduce yourself (broken Spanish or not) and strike up a rapport. Despite tremendous growth, Yucatán is still a very traditional place where folks have family ties that go back generations. Obviously, as a newcomer, it’s not always easy to fit in, as many people here are skeptical about Johnny and Ginny’s come lately — but also generally appreciate anyone who makes an effort. One way to get to know people is to get outside to sweep your patio and smile and wave to passersby with something like “bue-
nos dias” or “Parece que hoy va a hacer calor” — “Looks like it’s going to be hot today.” This works in a downtown or in a village — wherever there are neighbors. Here in Yucatán, we like to joke that we greet even stones, so don't worry about seeming overly forward, as these little interactions are perfectly normal and even expected to a certain extent. The next step is, of course, to strike up a bit deeper of a relationship. This does not mean you need to be best friends, but it shows respect and that you are willing to put yourself out there. When Thanksgiving or some other holiday rolls around, why not take over a dessert or a tray of turkey and stuffing to share a bit of your culture? If invited to a quinceañera, wedding, or anniversary, do your best to make it, as this is people’s way of “letting you in.” Especially in smaller towns, a great place to meet folks and strike up conversations is your neighborhood tiendita — those little
mom-and-pop corner stores. This is especially true for those working there because they probably know everyone in the area and can help expand your potential network exponentially. Talking with people on public transit is also wholly normal here and a great way to practice your social interactions. Good ways to strike up conversations include complimenting a person’s purse or hat or asking, “¿Como crees que le vaya a los Leones esta temporada?” — “How do you think the Leones [the local baseball team] will do this season?” These sorts of interactions are important to people here and will serve you well when it comes to integrating into society, making friends, and avoiding misunderstandings down the line. Have a question or quandary? Ask Yesica Benitez, who was born and raised here, at yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com.
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JUST ASKING
““A day trip?... Celestun, La Ria Progreso (for kayaking), mangroves at San Crisanto, Cenotes Cuzama/Chunkanan, Yokdzonot; Ruta Puuc: Loltun, Uxmal, Kabah.”
What’s your favorite local day trip?
—KENA PULIDO
“Hacienda Mucuyche Cenote.” —REG DENEAU
“That really depends on the person one is taking to sightsee. One of my daughters loved seeing ruined haciendas, so we took her to Progreso, then up the coast to eat fish in Telchac, and then all the way up to La Mina de Oro near Dzilam de Bravo where she flew her drone. The next day we went to Yaxcopoil, then Cacao (drone again), and then the cenote Xbatun. The day after that we went to Mayapan and then to Santa Barbara cenotes. There are so many options!” —UNA JOVANOVIC
“(1) Convent Route including Mani and black Jesus, (2) Loltun and Ruta Puuc Maya sites (3) Apisturismo (Sinanche), Manglar San Crisanto, Laguna Rosada, Xtampú, Xcambo, Sayachaltun, (4) Aké ruins, hacienda, melipona bee place, Izamal.”
“Uxmal and then have lunch at Maní. The road from Ticul to Maní is beautiful.”
“Xaya and the Melipona Bee women’s cooperative.”
—LIGIA SOLIS
—INES MALICK
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“Gosh! That’s a tough one, as there are so many wonderful places to visit around Mérida. A nice trip is northwards to Xcambo and south to Oxkintok.”
“I just discovered that there is a Museum of Bees in Maní. I wanna go.”
—ROBERT CASKEY
—STEVE RADZI
“Acanceh, Mayapan and then to Maní for poc chuc and the church.” —ROSS RUSSELL
“Cenote San Isidro and Cenote Santa Bar—JEREMY WILLIAM bara (during summer) P R O C TO R if you have a motorcycle, Mérida to Telchac Pueblo to Dzilam Bravo, stopping in between.” — LANA FLETCHER
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FOOD & BEV CRUNCHY THAI SALAD WITH SHRIMP INGREDIENTS:
» 1 head baby romaine lettuce, chopped » 1/8 purple cabbage, thinly sliced » half a red pepper, julienned » 1 Persian cucumber, sliced » half a large carrot, grated » grilled cambray onions & scallions, chopped » shallots, thinly sliced » salted roasted peanuts, chopped » basil » cilantro » mint » 6 - 8 shrimp seasoned with salt & pepper DRESSING: Equal parts lime juice and fish sauce plus piloncillo or coconut sugar to taste. ASSEMBLY: Grill shrimp until cooked through and opaque; set aside. Toss lettuce, cabbage, pepper, carrot, and cucumber in a large bowl, generously top with remaining ingredients and grilled shrimp. Serve with dressing to taste. SERVES 1-2
You Gotta Specialize
Y
EMILY SANT AMOUR and JAMIL SELEM talk about their fresh approaches to food service
OU MIGHT THINK that a talented cook or chef has much competition in today’s Yucatán, and you’d be right. But we found a number of enterprising individuals who have found a way to stand out. Here are two of them, and to get you back in touch with your inner chef, each share a recipe from their respective repertoires. — Lee Steele E M I LY S A N T A M O U R Home Delivery Meals Good health is at the heart of Emily Sant Amour’s Luncha Libre menu. Each week on WhatsApp, she posts at least three salad options accompanied by a list of proteins like shrimp or tofu. Emily also has organic grilled chicken and lamb patties with meat sourced from local Slow Food vendors. Emily was born in New York and lived in North Jersey. But after she and her hus-
band Sean had their first child, she came upon a realization: “I really didn’t know what to do with myself.” Then something sparked. A nutritionist asked her to develop a healthy snack bar for people on restrictive diets. It couldn’t have gluten, eggs, nuts, or sugar. It was a success. That led to a promising new venture. “Before the pandemic, I got pretty far along in starting a food company based on sunflower butter, which I had developed for the bar,” Emily says. “And that kind of took off. And so I started working with a consultant, and we turned it into a kind of snack pack with different flavors and dippers.” “But right before their first production run, motherhood, the pandemic, and the move to Mexico all happened in succession. “And all that kind of fell away,” Emily says. But her love for the kitchen didn’t. “Food has always been my kind of my happy place,” says Emily. But the move to
Yucatán presented challenges finding the quality and variety she was accustomed to. “I had a really hard time finding food that I wanted to eat. You know you could find salads up and down Montejo and all the restaurants have something but nothing was particularly interesting to me. Nothing was particularly nutritious. It was kind of all the same thing and all a little bit boring.” From home, her salads became in demand among friends — especially from smaller households where the long list of ingredients and the food preparation process — chopping, grilling and roasting — made cooking at home impractical. Then, friends suggested she go into business to meet the demand for healthy, tasty meal options. She started with a small menu with a limited circle of friends as a client base. Now, she’s planning a breakfast menu and more delivery days. “I just need to figure out the logistics.” She always includes seeds and nuts, avocado, and herbed homemade dressings. If there are proteins, they are well-seasoned. Her salad plates are composed with the notion: “The more colors, the better.” IG: @Luncha_Libre
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PATRICIA ROBERT 16
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HE ART WARMING I TAL IAN INSPIRED C UISINE AT T HE NE W G A ST RONOMIC C ORRIDOR 47th St. and 54th St. Centro, Mérida, Yucatán Reservations at 999 923 3081 www.olivamerida.com
VERA PIZZA AL FORNO
54th St. No. 433 X 47th & 49th Centro, Mérida, Yucatán. Reservations at 999 928 4332 @pizzeriaolivamid
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FOOD & BEV
JAMIL SELEM Private Chef If anyone has earned the right to be called “chef,” it’s Thculinario's Jamil Selem, a young culinary star and entrepreneur born and raised in Mérida. We met Chef Jamil through a couple who employ him as a private chef. When I visited Tracey and Mark’s house, Jamil was whipping up a storm in their kitchen, slicing, dicing, and pouring ingredients into his Thermomix, which he brings with him. While preparing a pizza from scratch, Jamil recalled his school days and how he learned about the opportunities that awaited working in a cruise ship kitchen. The sophistication of his dishes reveals the regimen and experiences of traveling to countries he might have never seen. He’s not one of those discreet cooks who disappear behind the kitchen island. Chef Jamil engages his clients and their guests. “They pay attention to my movements. I invite them to get closer and ask anything they want,” he confides. “People are very interested, and I love to share a little bit about what I know.” He also gives cooking classes, market tours, and wine pairings. “Whatever my client needs, I can perform,” says Jamil, 30.
HO
SALAD E E B Y NE
Calle 64 x 47
Centro, Mérida Reservations & delivery
+52 999 118 8906 @flamanteburgers
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MARINATED SALMON INGREDIENTS: 900g / 2lb salmon 50g recado negro 100ml sour orange juice 50ml lime juice 2 garlic cloves, chopped 150g small mushrooms 150g baby bell pepper, sliced 1 onion white wine butter
» » » » » » » » » »
As a consultant, he shares his knowledge with restaurants, as well. “I train the bartenders, waiters, waitresses for the restaurant. Also, all the procedures from cleaning the kitchen to how to be professional with customers,” he says. Everything from proper sanitation methods to menu consulting and costing out meals. He has amassed a network of pro-
For mashed potatoes: pinch of mustard seeds pinch of cumin 300g baby potatoes 100ml / 3.4oz. sour cream 1 garlic clove ½ onion
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fessionals, such as bartenders, wedding planners, florists, and even dishwashers, to be ready when a client calls. He’s aware that the client could be a foreigner. “Everyone has to speak English, so we’re a bilingual company, someone anyone can
Preheat oven to 250°C / 475°F. Meanwhile, cut the potatoes in quarters, add olive oil, salt, mustard seeds, black pepper, and bake with onion and garlic for 45 minutes. Blend eveything with the sour cream. FOR SALMON: Blend all the ingredients amd marinate salmon in sauce for 30 minutes. Preheat pan for two minutes. Melt butter with vegetable oil to cook the mushrooms and stir for one minute on high temperature. Mark all the sides and remove it from the pan once it’s done. Save. In the same pan, add the onion, chopped garlic and baby bell pepper, stir for two minutes, add white wine to deglaze. Cook for two minutes until alcohol evaporates. Save. Preheat a pan for two minutes on high heat and sear salmon for two minutes on the first side and one minute the other side. Present with other ingredients. SERVES A PARTY
hire,” says Jamil, in pretty much perfect English. “And Mérida has grown so fast, so I think being prepared is important. A lot of tourists are coming, especially for the food.” IG: @thculinario
CALLE 33ᴰ498, REPARTO DOLORES PATRÓN 97070 MÉRIDA, YUC. IG: @slowfoodyucatan
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WELLNESS
Interior Destination
IMAGE: ADOBE
change us; it unveils us. It reveals that within each of us lies a hidden explorer, a fierce warrior, a trailblazer. We begin to realize that our true destination was never a geographic location but a newfound state of being. The joy and fulfillment we seek are not in external accolades but in the internal recognition of our capabilities and value. We find our true selves in the quiet moments of reflection, in the laughter shared under the starlit sky, and in the silent conversations with the past. It’s a journey into the heart of what it means to be authentically, unapologetically ourselves. And it’s not for the faint of heart. It’s peppered with questions that don’t always have answers and reflections that don’t always flatter. But, as we peel back the layers of our conditioned selves, like the skin of a ripe mango, we uncover our true nature’s sweet, juicy essence. And in this journey of self-discovery, we realize that the most profound destination we can ever reach is the one that resides within us. Imagine this experience as charting a course along a river that flows within us. With its currents and undercurrents, this river symbolizes our life as an expat. At times, it’s a tranquil flow, where the waters of our experiences gently lead us toward deeper understanding. In other moments, it becomes a turbulent torrent, presenting rapids of cultural shocks and personal revelations. As we navigate this Looking within is a different kind of journey, and there’s course, we master the art of balance — the definitely baggage involved, as BRIAN D. MAHAN explains delicate act of holding on and letting go, vacillating between the familiar and the unfamiliar. HE YUCATÁN SERVES as more demands courage to face the paradox of Piloting this river requires a vessel than a backdrop. The initial allure finding oneself. Being lost is part of finding built of resilience and an oar crafted from of the region’s physical beauty is just your way. open-mindedness. With each stroke, we the surface. In my own journey, I’ve encountered creep further from our past selves, venturing In this cradle of civilization, our physdays of triumph and unavoidable moments into waters brimming with the promise of ical journey mirrors an inward pilgrimage, of despair in which I confirmed my transformation. This river is not solely about a quest not just of miles but of the soul. It resilience. I learned to embrace the winds reaching a destination. It’s about the lessons whispers a more profound invitation — to of change, find comfort in the unknown, learned, the insights gained, and the person unfold into our inner landscapes’ hidden and view the world and myself through a we expand into as we valleys and peaks. Away from the familiar fresh lens. I recall make our way along its embrace of our native land, we embark on a when the cultural trajectory. rare opportunity. chasms seemed too As we continue on The real odyssey within begins — a pasvast, and yet I have this path, let us savor sage of self-discovery: to confront our inner been spared from each moment — the shadows, to conquer our fears, to challenge even the slightest serenity and the tumult. our long-held beliefs, and to grow and tangible ache of In these moments, we blossom in unexpected ways. Every external feeling homesick. I — NEALE DONALD WALSCH are truly alive, fully journey mirrors an internal one. can’t even imagine immersed in the act of Each hurdle in this foreign land is a returning to The becoming. reflection of an inner barrier. Learning a Un-united States of America. Let’s embrace the profound truth: “If new language goes beyond vocabulary; it’s In the Yucatán, where the stars seem to you don’t go within, you go without.” about reshaping our voice in the world. burn a little brighter, we’re reminded of the For in the depths of our inner river lies Forging new relationships is not merely words of the ancient Maya: In lak’ech ala the treasure of our most authentic self, about the primordial need for compank’in — “I am another you.” This profound awaiting discovery, embrace, and celebration. ionship; it’s about weaving a new web recognition of our interconnectedness is of community that enriches our sense of perhaps the greatest destination we could Brian D. Mahan is a Mérida resident and belonging. Every challenge in adapting to hope to reach. author of I Cried All the Way to Happy Hour — this new life becomes a doorway to deeper In recognition of our shared humanity, What To Do When Self-Help Or Talk Therapy self-awareness, revealing inner strengths it’s here that we find the true essence of the Haven’t Really Helped. Visit briandmahan.com and untapped potential. It’s a journey that home that lies within. The Yucatán doesn’t
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“If you don’t go within you go without.”
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YO U, B U T B E T T E R .
APPOINTMENTS 999-926-8777 WhatsApp: 999-645-3945 drgilbertomedia.com IG: @dr.gilmedina
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YO U R G AY B & B I N M É R I D A
C. 56 439, PARQUE SANTA LUCIA, CENTRO, 97000 MÉRIDA, YUC. • +52 999 172 1460
ELPUEBLOMERIDA.COM
UAYMA'S STUNNING CHURCH WAS BUILT BY FRANCISCANS IN 1646 WITH STONES TAKEN FROM MAYA TEMPLES. PG 29
Destinations YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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PHOTO, PATRICIA ROBERT
Sometimes we ask ourselves, “Where do we go from here?” Well, if “here” is the Yucatán, there are a lot of options. Whether it’s just a stroll around a nearby community, a day trip to a cenote or a week-long cruise on the other side of the country, this part of the world offers an array of destinations. Here are several options our writers and photographers went out to investigate. So just sit back and fantasize or maybe even get inspired to venture outside and plan a trip. Let's go!
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PHOTOGRAPH BY WILLIAM FREJ 24
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UXMAL C A R L O S R O S A D O VA N D E R G R A C H T O N T H E Y U C AT Á N ’ S U N D E R R A T E D G E M
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HE GRANDEUR OF its architecture, beautiful landscapes, and the magnificence of its plazas attest to the status of Uxmal as the ultimate seat of power of the Puuc region — which also includes other remarkable ancient cities like Kabah, Labná, and Sayil. But aside from its size, Uxmal stands out for its refinement, which makes it feel much more like a site of worship and learning than the center of an expansionist city-state — though they, indeed, were no pacifists. Think of Uxmal as the Athens to Chichén Itzá’s Sparta, though, of course, this is a useful yet great oversimplification. Another important difference between Uxmal and Chichen Itzá is that although the former gets its fair share of tourists (especially on Sundays), you will not find any vendors within the latter site blowing conch shells or jaguar whistles that inevitably scare away the site’s wildlife and annoy people. Speaking of wildlife, Uxmal is an excellent place for birding, especially during the winter when migratory and local species can be found mingling in the rich vegetation of the Puuc hills. Keep your eyes open for Mot Mots, known in the Yucatán as Pájaro Toh, which are easily recognizable for their colorful plumage and long racket-like tip tails.
THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE AND ITS OVER-THE-TOP FACADE WITH THE TEMPLE OF THE MAGICIAN IN THE DISTANCE.
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“EL MEZCAL DE FRIDA” AND “KAHLO” EACH SELL FOR 27,000 PESOS WHEN BUNDLED WITH A BOTTLE OF AMIGO IMAGINARIO MEZCAL AT SOHO GALLERIES, CALLE 60 400A AT 43 IN SANTA ANA. TOTE BAGS WITH THE SAME ARTWORK ARE ALSO AVAILABLE IN THE GIFT SHOP UPSTAIRS.
WALKING INTO EL PALOMAR VIA AN ANCIENT SACBÉ INSPIRES A FEELING OF AWE. PHOTO, CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT
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VEN IF YOU have visited Uxmal before, recent excavations have opened up entire sections of the site, including the splendid Palomar Quadrangle, which features an impressive palace complex complete with intricate crestwork and large corbel arches, also known as Maya arches. This main palace is flanked by residences reserved for the city’s elite, as well as some rather unusual structures like a relatively small construction near the plaza’s entrance with a perfectly circular base. El Palomar is also notable for its antiquity, with experts like José Huchim Herrera (Uxmal’s director) who argues that its construction dates to the Preclassic (sometime between the 5th Century BCE and 3rd Century CE). This is especially interesting as this means that El Palomar is among the most ancient areas of Uxmal, as other comparable areas like the Nunnery and Governor’s Palace date to the late Classic and early post-Classic periods, well over a millennia later. Surrounding the quadrangle are several other structures, some of which have been restored up to a point, and others still awaiting their turn to shine. From atop El Palomar, visitors are treated to a wonderful view of La Gran Piramide, Uxmal’s tallest structure which itself sits atop a large artificial platform. Without a doubt, the most famous structure at Uxmal is its famous Pyramid of the Magician, which according to legend was built overnight by a sorcerer hatched from an egg laid by a Mayan witch. As the story goes (in one of its most common versions) the birth and rise of this powerful sorcerer had been foreseen, to not incur his wrath the royal family of Uxmal adopted him and established a dynasty known as the Tutul Xiu, whose descents still live in surrounding communities including Muna and Maní.
ancient structures standing at Uxmal. YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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EGARDLESS OF THE veracity of the legend, the pyramid itself is among the most beautiful in the Maya world. It features a rounded base and a main stairway adorned with rain god masks that faces a relatively small ceremonial center with a facade adorned with stone parrot reliefs and quintessential Puuc architectural features like repeating geometrical patterns and cylindrical adornments. As Uxmal lay in a region with no natural water sources, it should be no surprise to learn that imagery revealing the rain god Chaac dominates the site in the form of countless rain god masks, easily recognizable by their hooked noses. Also referring to Chaac are stone details on the facades of structures like the Temple of Turtles, adjacent to the Governor’s Palace. Uxmal also has several fascinating jungle paths to explore, most of which are home to yet more amazing structures such as La Vieja and the Cemetery Group, which open and close sporadically. The Governor’s Palace is notable for its immense size and over-the-top facade, but also for its surrounding plaza dominated by a platform topped with a bicephalous (two-headed) jaguar throne. At the base of this platform ran a Sacbé (an ancient Maya road) which connected Uxmal with one of its most important vassal kingdoms Kabah — and then onwards to other Puuc cities like Labná and Sayil. Uxmal was eventually abandoned by the Maya sometime in the 11th century for reasons that are not entirely clear. Archaeologists have speculated that several years without significant rainfall likely had something to do with it, yet others assert that Uxmal simply stretched itself and its domains too thin and fell due to internal strife — though in reality the reasons were probably a combination of factors. But after a history spanning over a millennium and a half, Uxmal had a
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The Pyramid of the Magician, according to legend, was built overnight by a sorcerer hatched from an egg laid by a Mayan witch. good run of it and left behind some magnificent treasures to explore. Getting to Uxmal is a breeze, especially when compared to Chichén Itzá as it lies just 50 miles south of Mérida on a well-maintained highway. After visiting the site you will find several options to eat including the Hacienda Uxmal, and several savory restaurants in the nearby town of Santa Elena, just 13 miles away and six miles from Kabah.
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Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian third-generation tour guide who has visited and documented hundreds of archaeological sites across Mesoamerica, as well as a PhD candidate in the field of heritage studies. He is Senior Editor at Yucatán Magazine and leads tours at Yucatán Discovery.
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WEST GROUP
CEMETERY GROUP
THE GREAT PYRAMID
PLAN TO ARRIVE AT UXMAL BY 8 A.M. WHEN THE SITE OPENS, A GREAT WAY TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VISIT BY AVOIDING LARGE GROUPS OF TOURISTS, ESCAPING THE WORST OF THE HEAT, AND MAYBE EVEN GETTING IN SOME GOOD BIRD WA TCHING. GENERAL ADMISSION TO UXMAL IS 606 PESOS.
STELAE PLATFORM
BALLCOURT
GOVERNOR’S PALACE
TEMPLE OF THE MAGICIAN
CASA VIEJA
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THE NUNNERY
PHOTO, STOCKSY
UXMAL SITE PLAN
NORTH GROUP
QUADRANGLE OF THE BIRDS
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THIS PAGE, THE BAROQUE ALTAR INSIDE THE SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA COVENT CHURCH IN IZAMAL IS COVERED IN LAMINATED GOLD. RIGHT, THE IGLESIA DE SAN GERVASIO IN VALLADOLID. PHOTO THIS PAGE, PATRICIA ROBERT; OPPOSITE: SUSANNE KREMER
P AT R I C I A R O B E R T ’ S W E E K E N D P H O T O - O P ESCAPE (WITH DETOURS) TO
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ITH MÉRIDA AS a home base, one of my favorite road trips is to two other beloved colonial cities in Yucatán, with a side trip to an offthe-beaten-path archaeological site and cenote. I went with my friend Josefina and her son Ivan for an overnight road trip, and it couldn’t have been more varied and fulfilling. Here’s a look at our diary:
A N E A R LY S TA R T
We got up early and left Mérida for Izamal, which is called the “yellow city” for its buildings uniformly painted the color of marigolds. We arrived in an hour and went immediately to the Convent of San Antonio de Padua, the most prominent landmark in the center of the city. Then we explored a few Maya ruins that are right there in the heart of the city: Itzamatul, Izamal (named after the city itself), and then onwards to the Kinich Kakmó, which is Yucatán’s largest Prehispanic monument by volume. By then, we are ready for lunch at Restaurante Kinich (Calle 27 No. 299 between 28 and 30, Centro). It’s a traditional Yucatecan menu at Kinich, and perfect for travelers wanting to experience local flavors in a beautiful setting. We ordered many dishes and shared, which I recommend when with friends. They’re also known for cocktails with fresh fruit from their garden and using local spirits such as mezcal, raicilla, tequila, sotol, gin, or Xtabentún, a Yucatecan anise liqueur. But we had too much planned to consider anything from the bar menu.
A LONG AFTERNOON
Everywhere we wanted to go was easily walkable. We strolled along the Centro’s streets and stopped at Taller Maya (C. 31, No. 301) to browse some high-end artisanal pieces, and the fantastic Galeria Wayak (Calle 29, No. 293). Then it was time to head towards Valladolid, a 90-minute drive. But before we arrived, it was imperative that we make a stop along the way at the small, peaceful village of Uayma to see the picturesque temple and former convent of Santo Domingo.
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f you’re lucky and arrive when the church is open, go inside... it’s an Instagram moment.
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PHOTO,BARBARA GATES
LEFT PAGE, CLOCKWISE, TOP LEFT: CONVENT OF SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA, IZAMAL; JOSEFINA AND IVAN ON A PYRAMID IN KINICH KAKMÓ, IZAMAL; PIGMENT IN EMILIO ESPADAS’ STUDIO, LA CASA DEL BARRO MUSEUM, UAYMA; COCKTAIL AT RESTAURANTE KINICH, IZAMAL; HOUSE INTERIOR, IZAMAL; EK’ BALAM ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE; STREET CORNER, IZAMAL; CONVENT OF SANTO DOMINGO, UAYMA. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE, TOP LEFT: COQUI COQUI CASA DE LOS SANTOS, IZAMAL; PATRICIA SNAPS THE LANDSCAPE; STREET FACADE, IZAMAL; EMILIO ESPADAS’ CLAY STUDIO EXTERIOR / LA CASA DEL BARRO MUSEUM, UAYMA; JOSEFINA AND PATRICIA, EK’ BALAM; EMILIO ESPADAS’ CLAY OVEN AND STUDIO “ALTAR,” UAYAMA; CATERPILLARS IN FORMATION, EK’ BALAM ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, TEMOZON. PHOTOS, PATRICIA ROBERT
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4 8 h ours i n 3
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e walked the streets of Izamal and stopped at Taller Maya Izamal and the fantastic Galeria Wayak.
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G U L F O F M E X I C O EK’ BALAM IZAMAL MÉRIDA VALLADOLID
THE RO U T E PATRICIA’S ROAD TRIP BEGAN IN MÉRIDA, WHERE SHE AND TWO OTHERS TOOK ROUTES 180 AND 11 FOR ABOUT AN HOUR TO REACH COLONIAL IZAMAL. THEN THEY STAYED OVER IN HISTORIC VALLADOLID, WHERE GOOD HOTELS ARE PLENTIFUL. EK’ BALAM ROUNDED OUT THEIR 36 HOURS. PHOTOS, PATRICIA ROBERT CENOTE XCANCHÉ IN EK’ BALAM.
This eye-popping church was built by the Franciscans in 1646 with stones taken from Maya temples. But what’s most visible on the outside wall are the kaleidoscopic of rosettes, star patterns, and double-headed eagles, that have been restored in recent years. If you’re lucky enough to arrive when the church is open, wander inside. Otherwise, all you can do is take a photo of the exterior and post it on Instagram. I promise lots of likes. Not far from there is another must-stop at Emilio Espadas’ clay studio on Calle 27, three blocks south of the church. He specializes in artisanal pots, bowls, and plates. Bring your own bubble wrap to protect everything you want to take with you. Their museum, La Casa del Barro, displays ancestral Maya ceramics. Once our purchases were secured, we headed towards the bustling colonial city of Valladolid.
EVENING
We had dinner at a beautiful restaurant at Colonté Hotel Origen (Calle 46 200E, Centro), which was an oasis of peace away YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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from what I call the Playa del Carmen section of Valladolid. We were exhausted, so we checked in early to our rooms at Posada San Juan, a small and charming eightroom hotel in the historic downtown area. Converted from a 19th-century house, The hotel has a terrace that overlooks a beautiful garden and a pool.
THE NEXT MORNING
Breakfast at Yerbabuena del Sisal in front of the Convent de San Bernardino de Siena (Calle 54a 217). Eggs with chaya, or tree spinach with green juice are very popular. We were struck by the gluten-free and vegan options. And the garden there is lovely. Before going west back to Mérida, we head 16 miles north to the archaeological site of Ek’ Balam, one of the few places where you can still climb the pyramids and take in an amazing view of the surrounding land — including mounds that contain not-yet excavated Maya temples. When looking around carefully when walking along the wooded paths you might find amazing natural phenomenons. We
witnessed caterpillars grouping together in an oval shape, almost dancing. It looked like a wacky hallucination, but it was real. So pay attention when walking the trail. Ek’ Balam is a bit of a detour, but well worth it.
T H AT A F T E R N O O N
A highlight is the remarkably preserved plaster on the tomb of Ukit Kan Lek Tok, a king buried in the side of the site’s largest temple complex. If the weather is hot, rent a bike from the archaeological site and cycle to take a refreshing dip at Cenote Xcanché next just under a mile away. The cooperative that runs the cenote also offers mouth-watering poc chuc and experiences such as rappelling across and down into the cenote. Don’t let the sound of this intimidate you because they make it quite easy. A refreshing spectacular adventure awaits you.
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Montreal native Patricia Robert lives in Mérida working as a photographer and art director.
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SEA OF
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E TOUCH GLASSES when toasting because sound is the only sense not used when we drink and clinking addressed the need. Dan Blanchard, the CEO of UnCruise Adventures, told me that on the night we met and as I was about to discover, the senses would play an important role over the next week. I was Dan’s guest for a cruise aboard the Safari Voyager in the Gulf of California or Sea of Cortez. UnCruise Adventures is not your typical cruise line. They run small boats — ours carried 66 guests — and pride themselves on an adventure-focused and eco-friendly experience. Obviously, this attracts people with a passion to explore so instead of pulling into a port town to shop, the Voyager would drop anchor off the shore of a deserted island and we would take pontoon skiffs to the beach, jump into the water and wade in to begin that day’s activity. We weren’t John Steinbeck and Ed Ricketts on their epic Log from the Sea of Cortez adventure, but with a face full of spray, the Baja sun on our backs, and turquoise water at our feet, we sure felt like it.
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Never having been to Baja California Sur, I didn’t know what to expect. We embarked from the town of La Paz and at first glance, the landscape seemed more of the same — brown and brownish-green vegetation against brown and reddish-brown rock. But after a few days, I began to see the subtleties in the colors around me. The pop of a little red flower of an ankle-height cactus along a trail. The browns and grays striated across the rock sediment of the cliffs as if wiped with a giant paintbrush. The way light and shadow played against the water in the little hidden coves, turning it turquoise. Spend enough time in Baja and you begin to realize you are in one of the most beautiful natural art galleries of the world. On Isla San Francisco, we walked through honeysuckle as we hiked up a trail to summit a desolate rocky cliff. As each person brushed against the shrubs, the perfume in the air became stronger and I glanced back as the last hiker reached the grove to see her stop with a smile on her face. Back on the boat, Chef Matt presented no end of
CORTEZ
T R AV E L W R I T E R D AV I D N . M c I LVA N E Y E X P L O R E S T H E
A CLIFFSIDE VISTA OF ISLA SAN FRANCISCO.
PHOTOGR APHS BY PEDRO LOLLET T PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTINA HOLMES
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innovative meals all sourced from local ingredients, and the stewards expertly accommodated everyone’s needs and desires (usually for more). Alex, the bartender, dialed in my perfect Old Fashioned and I only had to approach the bar with a smile to find one in my hand. Midweek, we stopped at Agua Verde for a burro ride through the hills. Decades earlier, while on a motorcycle trip, Dan was stranded in Baja and taken in by Romeros, a local ranching family. He kept in touch with the father, Alejo, and once he had the cruise operating the friendship turned into a working relationship. The entire Romero clan — from the patriarch to the great grandbabies — met us on the beach with 20 or so burros and we lined up as the vaqueros matched the right ride to each of us. I was partnered with a leggy steed — half burro and half racehorse — and in no time at all we sped past the others and took our place at the head of the train. I rode alongside one of Alejo’s sons and we swapped stories of life in New York and Mexico as we clambered up a rocky trail too challenging for horses. “Trust your burro” may be my new life mantra. A few days later, we dropped anchor off the cliffs of a protected rookery on Isla Los Isoltes to snorkel with baby sea lions. Playful and mischievous, they darted among the group tugging at fins and heartstrings. To see sea lions in the wild is an amazing thing. To swim with and touch frolicking sea lion pups is life changing. There’s something else that has to be mentioned. I am a Mérida guy not a Cancún guy, which is another way of saying I’m not a cruise guy. This was my first cruise and I was a little concerned about being with the same group for
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OPPOSITE, TOP: THE LOCAL “VAQUERO” INSTRUCTS THE GROUP TO, “TRUST YOUR BURRO!” BELOW, LUNCH ON DECK. THIS PAGE, THE LOUNGE, THE SEA, AND GUESTS REFRACTED IN THE BAJA LIGHT. BOTTOM, A WALK ON THE BEACH OF ISLA SAN FRANCISCO.
F
or a week I sailed around one of the most beautiful parts of this extraordinary country that many of us now call home.
PHOTOGR APHS BY JOSHUA ARFA X AD YUCATÁN MAGAZINE
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he silence tumbled down from the cliff to enter me and carried my joy and contentment down to the waters of the cove and out to sea.
LA PAZ
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a week, but I was there to have the entire experience, so I sat down and talked with each guest. The collected life and travel stories told were extraordinary and my reservations quickly fell away as I realized this was a week with likeminded friends. On the first night, Dan asked people to raise their hands if they had traveled with UnCruise before. Then three timers … four timers … five. The last hand went up at 14. That not only speaks to the quality of the company, but the experience that the crew and guides work very hard to provide. UnCruise Adventures is consistently awarded the best small-ship exploration line in the United States. I started with the sense of sound, so that’s how I’ll end. On the last day, about halfway up an arroyo, our guide, Christian, shepherded us into the shade of large outcropping. “Let’s sit in silence for a moment to let the “quiet” settle in.” The rock I sat upon was warm and with my eyes closed and in the “quiet” I could hear the wind gently whistle around the cadera cactus; the trill of wrens dancing up the arroyo; and the silence tumble down from the cliff to enter me and carry my joy and contentment down to the waters of the cove and out to sea. I am not a cruise guy. But for a week I sailed around one of the most beautiful parts of this extraordinary country that many of us now call home. I saw, touched, tasted, smelled and finally heard the best that the adventure of life has to offer. I may have to reevaluate that “not a cruise guy” thing.
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Writer David N. McIlvaney splits his time between Mérida and the Catskill Mountains of New York where he draws water, hews wood, and ponders his relationship to the outdoors. IG: @the_real_dnm
PHOTO, DAVID N. MCILVANEY
THE VOYAGER DROPS ANCHOR OFF A DESERTED ISLAND AND GUESTS TAKE PONTOON SKIFFS TO THE BEACH AND WADE IN TO EXPLORE.
S E A O F C O R T E Z
4. ISLA DANZANTE 3. AGUA VERDE
5. PUERTO ESCONDIDO & GRAY WHALES
2. ISLA SAN JOSE 7. ISLA SAN FRANCISCO 6. LOS ISLOTES & SEA LION COLONY
1 & 8. LA PAZ
PA C I F I C O C E A N
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THE WEEK U
NCRUISE EMBARKS FROM La Paz, Baja California Sur, and runs weekly trips from late January to early April. Itineraries change daily based on weather conditions. Prices range from approximately US$6,000 to US$10,000 per person. Below is a typical itinerary. DAY 1 — Embark at La Paz DAY 2 — Isla San Jose — snorkel reef / beach walks DAY 3— Agua Verde — burro rides / kayak / hike DAY 4 — I sla Carmen and Isla Danzate — snorkel / beach time DAY 5 — Puerto Escondido — whale watching DAY 6 — Ensada El Cardonal and Los Isoltes — swim with sea lions/ hiking DAY 7 — Isla San Francisco — hike / kayak / SUP DAY 8 — La Paz — disembark UnCruise Adventures: uncruise.com, 888-862-8881 or sales@uncruise.com
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N O .
Casa
A PREVIEW OF SUSAN ORDOVAS’ UPCOMING BOOK INSIDE YUCATÁN. PICTURED, HACIENDA TEKIT DE REGIL. P. 42
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Outside, Inside 1st Look: Inside Yucatán
Dream Beach Retreat
Studio Visit: Claribel Calderius
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BOOKS
Hidden Mérida O
Yucatán’s ‘forsaken, decaying ruins, remnants of an illustrious past ... are awakening from a centuries-old siesta,’ SUSANA ORDOVÁS writes in her upcoming book.
VER 100 YEARS ago, there were more millionaires per capita in Yucatán’s capital than in any other city in the world. The people are gone, but many of their city mansions and country haciendas remain. Susana Ordovás’ vibrant Inside Yucatán: Hidden Mérida and Beyond will be released on April 30 by Vendome Press. Across 337 pages, 27 decadent residences — and, in some cases, their occupants — are captured by photographer Guido Taroni. Jesús Cisneros contributes three charming maps of the region for added context. The book is divided into two parts: Town and Country. The town’s homes include views of artist Jorge Pardo’s bold contemporary space in Santa Ana and the fragile beauty of the historic Quinta Los Almendros, just outside the hotel zone. Haciendas include Subin and Tekik de Regil, two of the oldest surviving structures of their kind, each benefitting strongly from the intervention of imaginative owners. The story of one estate — Hacienda Ualayceh in Abalá — is particularly poignant. The proud, decaying Abalá plantation house
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appears frozen in time, kept together by a man who, as a child, worked in its fields. What the properties have in common is how well they hide themselves. “Unlike other places in Mexico that flaunt their beauties to the world, Mérida’s true treasures lie concealed behind tall walls, hidden from prying eyes,” Ordovás says. “Each of these homes has been transformed by the magic of Yucatán, so much so that they could, indeed, exist nowhere else but here.” Ordovás’ name may sound familiar. She wrote the forward to a May 2023 book by Mérida’s Newell Turner, a shelter
magazine veteran. His Mexican: A Journey Through Design (See Yucatán Magazine Issue 9) comes from the same publisher. Inside Yucatán also follows a series of earlier books that ventured into Tangier and Milan with the same photographer. An Irish-born writer living in Mexico City and Madrid, Ordovás contributes to Cabana and The World of Interiors. Taroni, who lives in Milan, is also in Cabana and the book Safari Style. —Lee Steele Inside Yucatán: Hidden Mérida and Beyond (Vendome) by Susana Ordovás, Hardcover, 336 pages, US$75. Available April 30, 2024.
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OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: THE ROBIN'S EGG BLUE INTERIOR OF MÉRIDA'S QUINTA LOS ALMENDROS AND THE MORE NATURALISTIC MASÓN DE MALLEVILLE IN VALLADOLID. THIS PAGE, COUNTER CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: CASA BROWN AND JORGE PARDO'S HOME IN MÉRIDA AND CASA DE LOS ARTISTAS IN IZAMAL.
PHOTOS: GUIDO TARONI
“Each of these homes has been transformed by the magic of Yucatán...”
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LUXE LISTING
BY THE NUMBERS WIDTH 40 meters
BEDROOMS 4
DEPTH 60 meters
BATHROOMS 4
Dream Beach Retreat E
Five lots join together for one giant slice of paradise
SCAPE TO YOUR private paradise with this breathtaking beach compound nestled along 40 meters of pristine coastline between the wellknown Telchac Puerto and the peaceful fishing village of San Crisanto. Embrace the essence of luxury living amidst lush tropical surroundings, where every day feels like a getaway. You will immerse yourself in the tranquility of this expansive property spanning five lots, featuring mature coconut palm trees that provide shade and a serene ambiance. Enjoy the ultimate privacy with three 20-meter lots on the south side, bordered by the beach road, and two additional beachfront lots. And every evening you can lose yourself with the flocks of birds flying
into the enchanting sunsets. Step into a world of elegance and comfort with the main house boasting four bedrooms and four bathrooms, exuding timeless charm and modern convenience. The caretaker’s casita offers two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a kitchen, ensuring ample space for guests or staff. Plus, indulge in leisurely moments in the bungalow, which opens to a filtered pool and vast patio, currently utilized as a gym with a large bathroom. IMPECCABLE DESIGN & AMENITIES This newly constructed compound has been meticulously maintained and features quality finishes throughout, including granite countertops, air conditioning,
and ceiling fans for year-round comfort. Revel in the stunning views from the open kitchen with a pantry and wrap-around windows, or unwind on the second and third-floor terraces. Additional features such as pressurized water, bathtubs, and LED illumination add to the allure of this coastal oasis. Ideally situated on Yucatán’s most desirable beach, you’re just minutes away from Telchac Puerto’s excellent dining options, convenient shops and health clinic. Just 45 minutes away is Progreso’s Malecón, supermarket, and doctors, dentists, hospitals, and clinics. It’s an hour to Costco and fabulous shopping on Mérida’s north side, and an hour and 15 minutes to the airport. YOUR BEACHFRONT ESCAPE AWAITS Experience effortless beach living in a meticulously maintained compound that embodies the epitome of luxury and relaxation. This compound is offered at MX$35,000,000 by Mexico International. And if you want to move right in, the custom-selected furniture and furnishings are negotiable. For more information or to schedule a private tour, contact Colm at colmyucatan@gmail. com or Mitch at miguelsmexico@gmail.com. Or call 999-920-6856. Don’t miss the opportunity to make this coastal retreat your own slice of paradise.
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PHOTOS: NEIL YOUNGSON
THIS COASTAL COMPOUND IS CLOSE TO WONDERFUL LOCAL RESTAURANTS AND DRIVABLE TO SUPERMARKETS AND THE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT.
S P O N S O R E D
C O N T E N T
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A D V E R T I S E M E N T
ENTHUSIASM, THE MAIN INGREDIENT “I have an artistic background, studied architecture and interior design, and worked as a sculptor since 2005 in San Francisco and Miami, so it could have been difficult to work with another creative mind, but the opposite happened: Montea’s team was in charge of the main architecture, their references to the Mayan culture and traditions combined with a fantastic builders’ team made the process very interesting to me as I could see the unfamiliar ways of building a structure not only from ground up but also from the outside to the inside. The vision of the interior is created of simple freestanding rooms with huge glass walls, open but cozy, filled with an art collection, very private but open to the central garden. Every daily task has its own space, separated visually and acoustically. The reflections in the large windows give the structures an even larger appearance. It’s unbelievable what Montea’s team could accomplish in such a short time. The results are stunning. We decided to keep the original structure on the neighboring property, their charm and desolate characters emphasize the beauty of the new structure and is an homage to the neighborhood.” Rainer Lagemann, homeowner
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STUDIO VISIT
My Octopus Fridge... CLARIBEL CALDERIUS talks to fellow artist TREY SPEEGLE about the impetus behind her latest work in Mérida and how art is her therapy
“I felt like I was combining New York City graffiti art with beautiful Mérida fauna ... like I was merging two homes.”
PHOTOGR APHS BY PATRICIA ROBERT 50
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UBAN-BORN CLARIBEL Calderius’ cheerful, brightly colored work deals with very uphappy subject matter: helplessness, memory and abandonment. Her series, Children of the Homeland, is embroidered with the faces of children from Havana orphanages. In 2020, Calderius moved to Mérida during COVID, using her work as a kind of therapy during that period of isolation. I was introduced to her by curator Tiffany Thompson and we spoke long-distance while she was in Mexico City at Zona Maco art fair while I was at my studio in upstate New York. TREY: Hola, chica! Are you seeing lots of art in Mexico City? CLARIBEL: Too much, sometimes. I think that art fairs are like an overdose. My husband, Marco Castillo, has a show at KOW gallery at Zona Maco. I never get tired of HIS work though, after 21 years together and two kids. Nice. Hey, speaking of kids and art, tell me about your Children of the Homeland series. I created an arts school for children in Madrid and had the opportunity to collaborate with orphanages. When the Cuban boom happened with Obama, after 10 years in Madrid, I arrived in Cuba and wanted to work with orphanages, and help these children who are in so much pain. I could see how through art they became more loving, calm, and resilient. When I arrived in Mérida, I began to finally understand why I worked with orphans.
“We all need to wear masks to belong to this world. We hide the fear, the suffering but everything is there...”
Why is that..? Well, when I was a child my father was the bodyguard of Fidel Castro. It’s a long story, but he was taken away and killed. We were told five different stories of what happened... Oh, God that’s so horrible.... wow, after all that, do you feel that through your art, you’ve processed those painful memories? Yes. The work is like a therapy. I don’t know if it was Mérida or COVID but I needed to open the box and work on myself. I didn’t have any materials and I was dying of anxiety. I found the jute in my garage. I just started working and I didn’t stop. Do the titles reflect the meaning behind the work? What’s the title of the big piece [opposite] you are in front of? “Cabin Without a Window”... like when you feel your head is a prison. Sometime I feel my thoughts and the monsters in my mind and they won’t let me go out. People who know me might be surprised by that because I’m always so happy and positive. Are the head scultpures other people, or are they your head? All my head. They are called “Social Pact.” We all need to wear masks to belong to this world. We hide the fear, the suffering but everything is there. What’s that stuck to the walls of the studio? Foam. You’re gonna love it. The place is very strange like a cave. It used to be a huge fridge for octopus ... WHAT?! Yes, the studio was once a refrigerator for octopus. OK. I think that’s got to be the headline! Are you working on an upcoming show? I am working on two museum shows, one in Mexico and one in Europe, but I think I can’t talk about it just yet. Well, congrats. Thanks for taking the time to talk. I’ll be here when you get back. Thank YOU. Follow Claribel Calderius on IG: @claribelcalderius_
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OPPOSITE, CLARIBEL CALDERIUS WITH HER SERIES OF HEADS CALLED “SOCIAL PACT” AND A WALL PIECE, “CABIN WITHOUT A WINDOW.” THIS PAGE, A HANGING SCULPTURE, “MYCELIA,” AND A WALL PIECE CALLED “MENTAL POSITIONS.” 51
The Marketplace features independently owned local businesses of interest to our readers. To place your ad at affordable rates, contact yesicabenitez@roofcatmedia.com
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EXCLUSIVE LISTING See more listings online!
$2,350,000 USD
$1,600,000 USD
Mérida Mansion
Yucatan Beachfront Lot
Property Code 3052
Contact yury@yucatanhomesandlots.com
» Fully Furnished » 5 Beds / 6 Baths » 1770 M2 Lot M2 of » 765 Construction
(50 ft.) » Renovated » 16-Meter Lap Pool Colonial » Tall Ceilings » Mature Vegetation Living and » Formal Dining Rooms » Walled for Privacy » Poolside Pergola
WhatsApp / cel +52-999-947-2559 U.S./Canada +1-214-256-3876
Linear Meters » 75of White Powder Beach Frontage
a 2nd » Includes Row Lot 25x100 Meters
» 100 Meters Deep » Total M2: 10,170 » No Sargassum » Residential Lot
» Electricity/Well Water Palms, » Tall Tropical Vegetation
Yury Di Pasquale, founder
yury@yucatanhomesandlots.com www.yucatanlotsandhomes.com
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House guests renting from these property managers receive a free copy of Yucatán Magazine. To be included in this directory and offer this publication to your clients, contact hola@yucatanmagazine.com
P R O P E R T Y
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pm23yucatan.com 54
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Dream Beach Retreat MX$35,000,000 # 6324 SEE LUXE LISTING
p. 44-45