Yucatán Magazine / Issue 14 / The Best of Yucatán

N O .

Y U C ATA N M A G A Z I N E .C O M

Lo r mejo

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the Nuestros lugares favoritos to eat, drink and play

SAN FELIPE BARBERÍAS MÉRIDA SAMANTHA MICHELL

$150 MXP / $8 USD

Dra. Itzel Cerón has the latest technology to care for your skin Tersana is a premier clinic for advanced dermatological skin care, permanent cosmetic enhancement, fat and cellulite reduction, laser hair removal and a whole variety of beauty procedures with its state-of-the-art technology and highly trained and experienced professionals.

Tersana has maintained an unparalleled reputation for quality services.

We achieve great results because we believe that patient satisfaction is vital to Tersana’s success.

TR E ATM E NT S IN CLU D E • SKIN CANCER CHECKUPS

• LASER HAIR REMOVAL

• BROWN SPOTS

• SKIN DISEASE TREATMENTS

• SKIN LAXITY

• PIGMENTATION TREATMENT

• SKIN REJUVENATION

• WRINKLE REDUCTION

• DARK SPOT REMOVAL

• SKIN REVITALIZATION

• STRETCH MARKS

• SKIN RESURFACING

• ACNE SCARS

• SUN DAMAGE

• SPIDER VEINS

• AGE SPOTS

Calle 66, 548 between 65 & 67, Centro, Mérida

IG: @tersana.dermaceron | 999-924-6653 / 999-243-4311

THE THREE PILLARS OF ARCHITECTURE When taking on the task of building a home it’s not difficult to find good designers, construction cost analysts and even builders, but having all three in a single group that is responsible for the entire construction process is key to a successful and troublefree project. This project was a complete success in every regard because there was a balance between design, cost and construction. With all the trade groups under one roof and directly responsible to the architect it eliminated the need for subcontractors and guaranteed a carefully orchestrated product.

Of the utmost importance, the Architect presented a detailed line item cost estimate of every component of the design, from demolition to detailed finishes which evolved from a close collaboration with me, the client.

The budget was set, changes and add-ons were discussed and negotiated resulting in zero surprises throughout the project, which was completed within the projected time period and on budget. The Architect’s genuine enthusiasm and ongoing concern for a dynamic, unique and functional habitat created a home that goes beyond aesthetics.

Jim Black, “El Viejo Cine” Tepakan, Yucatán

índice

C O V E R S T O RY

ISSUE 14

47 The Best of Yucatán

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4,000 readers can’t be wrong. We asked for their opinions and learned a lot.

Gentleman Only

Barbershop PepeH takes its task seriously. The task is more than shaves and haircuts. It’s making guys feel like kings.

4,000 lectores no pueden estar equivocados. Les pedimos su opinión y aprendimos mucho.

Barbería PepeH se toma su tarea en serio. No sólo se trata de afeitados y cortes de cabello; se trata de hacer que los caballeros se sientan como reyes.

29 The Silver King

A visit to the Gulf Coast to unwind and catch some fish proves that nothing worthwhile is easy.

Una visita a la Costa del Golfo para pescar algo demuestra que nada que valga la pena es fácil.

40 Alternative Schools

FROM TOP: PATRICIA ROBERT; CONTRIBUTED

Whether building robots or learning about livestock, kids are learning more than ABCs. Ya sea construyendo robots o aprendiendo sobre ganado, los niños están aprendiendo más que el abecedario.

Stefano Marcelletti and familia gather at Pizzeria Oliva for our photoshoot. Pages 52-53

ON THE COVER Manolo Taure, whose Graphic Bakery art studio in Mérida has spotlighted the charm of hand-pulled prints, created our “Best” collage under the direction of Patricia Robert, a Canadian creative director living in Yucatán.

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Manolo Taure y su Graphic Bakery ha destacado el encanto de las impresiones hechas a mano. Encargado de crear las imágenes para “Best” bajo la dirección de Patricia Robert, una directora creativa canadiense viviendo en Yucatán.

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índice

Samantha Michell invokes movement and memory. Page 101

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Editor’s Letter

Food+Bev

SEEN

Una guía para la Calle 47.

¡Lo Mejor de lo Mejor!

14 Transformation artists

Looking for her own art studio, Jeanne Ashman saw the potential in a narrow, nondescript house.

Mientras buscaba su propio estudio de arte, Jeanne Ashman vio de una potencial en una casa estrecha.

17 Books

Five classic titles for kids.

Cinco títulos clásicos para niños.

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CASA

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A guide to Calle 47.

Luxury Listing

A colonial palace in Santa Ana.

WELLNESS

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Monica Rezman

Bright horizons in San Cristóbal.

Jeff Shaw

Do what you can, and keep doing it.

Haz lo que puedas y continúa haciéndolo.

Laura Kirar

The magnificent Morocco room.

21 Brian D. Mahan

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STUDIO VISIT

The misguided goal of perfectionism.

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El objetivo equivocado del perfeccionismo.

Samantha Michell

Movement and memory.

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PATRICIA ROBERT

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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Lee Steele SENIOR EDITOR

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

ROOF CAT MEDIA

VISUALS EDITOR

S DE RL DE CV

Patricia Robert

President

COLUMNISTS

Lee Steele

Brian D. Mahan Jeff D. Shaw

General Manager

Yesica Benitez

CONTRIBUTORS

Abraham Bojórquez Bénédicte Desrus Hannah Hudson David N. McIlvaney

Craig Saunders Manolo Taure Neil Youngson Eduardo Vázquez

CIRCULATION & DISTRIBUTION

Alejandro Pinto Tolosa

Founding Partners

Lemuel Lake Steele Pablo Arroyo Díaz Marketing Consultant

Beth Oden

Brand Outreach

Bryan Dearsley P R I N T E D I N Y U C ATÁ N, M E X I C O

US & Canada Accounts

Melissa Adler

Executive Assistant

Manolo Lago

BUSINESSES: PARTNER WITH US

hola@yucatanmagazine.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS, BACK ISSUES & MERCH

subscriptions.yucatanmagazine.com

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE® AÑO 4, NÚMERO 14 Todos los derechos reservados por Roof Cat Media S de RL de CV, Calle 84, 278 x 59C y 59D Fraccionamiento Las Américas, Mérida, Yucatán, CP 97302. Prohibida la reproducción total o parcial del contenido sin autorización previa y por escrito de los editores. La revista asume que el material aquí presentado es original y no infringe derechos reservados por ley. Reserva de derechos de uso exclusivo del título. Yucatán Magazine no se hace responsable por el contenido de sus anunciantes.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

¡Lo Mejor de lo Mejor!  El número 14 se produjo en un formato renovado para ganarse ese codiciado lugar en su mesa de café este otoño e invierno. ¿Qué es diferente? En primer lugar, somos un poco más portátiles, mucho más gruesos y con más color que nunca. Quizás lo más significativo es que volvemos al punto de partida: producir la revista con contenido en español e inglés. Nuestro contenido editorial está enfocado a una audiencia global interesada en cómo es la vida en Yucatán.

O puede serlo, con un poco de imaginación y conocimiento interno.

Esta edición presenta nuestros resultados de The Best of Yucatán. La encuesta tuvo dos rondas de votación. Primero, más de 4.000 lectores nominaron sus cafeterías, hamburgueserías, peluquerías para mascotas, etc. favoritas. A partir de ahí, eligieron sus favoritos entre más de 60 categorías. Por supuesto, todo es subjetivo. Esta encuesta es sólo una instantánea de las actitudes de nuestros lectores.

Nos sorprendió lo mucho que aprendimos de usted.

Queremos hacer de esto una tradición anual. Mientras los lectores completen nuestras encuestas y las empresas independientes se destaquen, vale la pena el esfuerzo.

Desfrute.

We’ve collected the nominations, tallied the votes, and determined the winners of our inaugural Best of Yucatán competition. Now, we honor around 180 businesses that came out on top.

Here’s how it worked. In April, we invited our readers to nominate their favorite burgers, pasta, fish and chips, day spas, and, of course, tacos and panuchos. We just wanted to know your favorite go-to places as you go about your daily life. Our unprecedented feature begins on Page 47. We hope it inspires you to visit new places.

So congratulations to the winners, and thanks to our roughly 4,000 participants.

Also, thanks to Manolo Taure, a fabulous artist we featured in our very first issue. I’ve always been a fan of his Graphic Bakery, and a few of his pieces hang in our offices. I’m a proponent of the disappearing discipline of magazine illustration, and when our own Patricia Robert suggested we commission a cover collage from him, I immediately agreed.

PS: Let us know how you like the more portable format. If it catches on, we might just keep it.

T H E ROU N DU P

Sign up for a free weekly newsletter with more insight and inspiration from Mexico.

Find signup link at yucatanmagazine.com

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Lee Steele PABLO ARROYO DÍAZ

GET MORE YUCATÁN MAGAZINE EACH WEEK

Director, Yucatán Magazine lee@roofcatmedia.com

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The First Italian/ American Restaurant in Town

Calle 59 528 entre 64 y 66 Mérida Centro Histórico WhatsApp 999-326-5313 @lasiciliamerida

Meet the family doctor with an excellent bedside manner.

Dr. José Antonio Azcorra Díaz General Practioner

And makes housecalls.

And speaks English!

+52 999 297 4394

Mi Oxxo hermoso One local branch of the convenience store chain turns out to be pretty in pink

An Oxxo is an Oxxo is an Oxxo, or so we thought before the Oxxo at the Yucalpetén marina went viral. One Tik Tok account that featured the Yucalpetén Oxxo’s flamboyant flamingo facade hit more than 14 million views. The decoration is best viewed at night, and preferably approached by boat. While this branch of the convenience store chain has been called “the most beautiful Oxxo,” alas, the inside looks like any other. Meanwhile, a heart-themed Oxxos in Puerto Villarta was apparently so appealing, a couple got married there last Valentine’s Day. Oxxo even sprung for their honeymoon.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

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SEEN

Transformation artists at work Broad strokes and dramatic florishes make over a narrow, once-nondescript property TEXT BY CRAIG SAUNDERS AND LEE STEELE PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

A curved wall by the entry softens the brutalist forms and industrial gate and doors.

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 You can do a lot even when your property’s width is just 4.5 meters or under 15 feet. It’s just that, as artists Ken and Jeanne Ashman say, you have to “get creative.”

They bought the fairly plain shotgun house on a quiet Centro street to serve as a workshop studio, with some gallery space, for Jeanne, an American sculptor working primarily with found objects. They also wanted to include a living space — a two-bedroom, two-bath home with a lap pool that fits snugly in the rear garden.

Two years later, Casa Bestia was finished.

Today, it’s furnished, filled with art, and feels bright and welcoming from front to rear.

Adding to the complications was that the finished product had to contain a beautiful and functional two-bedroom, two-bath home that’s consumer-ready should they decide to sell the property in the future.

Success came after working countless hours with architect/builder Javier Ramirez of JR Architects. Their background running a small interior design firm back in the States also served them well.

A thoughtful floorplan with floor-toceiling windows makes the home feel much roomier than it is.

The narrow north/south-oriented site along the entire width is spanned by slabon-deck construction so no columns or walls interrupt sight lines.

Two open stairs and multiple overlooks connect the floors, where glass and polished cement are backdrops for Jeanne’s countless sculptural works.

The floor planes of the second level jut through an open two-story volume, providing kinetic energy without interrupting a direct view through the structures to the rear garden.

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SEEN The rear walls shield a beautiful, private lap pool.

Casa Bestia turned out to be two homes connected by a central courtyard. The house closest to the street is a south-facing vertical space, with a gallery occupying the two stories facing front.

However, a clerestory window tops the elegant, curved half-bath at street level adjacent to the main entrance, with a small garden and one of Jeanne’s sculptures.

The composition is lively, relieving the brutality of the solid wall and infusing the interior space with light.

“I’ve seen several narrow homes that have no light; they’re just one building,” Jeanne recalls.

“So I decided that it needs to have a lot of light. I got windows

on the back. I got a courtyard in the middle.”

To the rear, the second house is more personal: it has a living room and bedrooms, with a pool in the rear yard.

The houses are organized around the two-story garden space, with the two-story water feature and stair hall providing organizational clarity. Walls are minimal, occurring only where privacy is desirable.

Overall, the house is a successful exercise in turning a challenging geometry into a unique design.

Mérida resident Craig Saunders is a retired Connecticut architect.

Trick Question Time ¿Cuál de los siguientes no es el nombre de un restaurante en el Centro de Mérida?

What kind of name is this for a fancy new café?

a) Nakuh b) Holoch c) Bacab d) Huniik e) Tinoc f) Kuuk g) Kahal

Perdido en traducción

Lost in translation

 Dejemos algo en claro. El local llamado Pure Barf, el

cual varios de nuestros amigos suponen ser un café con un nombre asqueroso, ya que en inglés “Barf” significa “vómito”, es en realidad un acrónimo en inglés para “biologically appropriate raw food” for dogs ... lo cual se vuelve obvio al fijarse en la iconografía canina que adorna su fachada.

 Let’s set the record straight on what many of our friends believe is a new café with an unfortunate name, or a bad typo. Pure Barf: Real Food is not for humans. Look closer and see the paw prints to the right of the door. In this case, Barf is an acronym in English for biologically appropriate raw food ... for dogs.

Calle 43 x 50, en frente de El Museo de la Luz. Envios dentro de la ciudad, purebarfmexico.com

Calle 43 x 50, in front of the Museum of Light.

Deliveries within city limits; purebarfmexico.com

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Respuesta: e.

(Tinoc es un café, no un restaurante.)

ISSUE 14

Answer: e (Tinoc is a cafe, not a restaurant.)

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YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

BOTTOM: MANOLO LAGO

Which of the following is not the name of a restaurant in Mérida’s Centro?

BOOKS

Classics for curious kids 5 titles to introduce Mexican culture to smart young readers  Niño Wrestles the World written and illustrated by Yuyi Morales

A vibrant picture book about a young boy named Niño who imagines wrestling with fantastical creatures from Mexican folklore. It’s a fun and playful introduction to Mexican culture. Ages 2-6; Roaring Brook Press 2013

 La Frontera: El Viaje con Papá / The Border: My Journey with Papa

written by Alfredo Alva and Deborah Mills, illustrated by Claudia Navarro This bilingual picture book tells the story of a young boy and his father who cross the border from Mexico to the United States in search of a better life. It’s a poignant and timely story about immigration. Ages 4-10; Barefoot Books 2018

 Off We Go to Mexico! written by Laurie Krebs, illustrated by Christopher Corr

A colorful picture book that takes children on a rhyming journey through Mexico, highlighting the country’s diverse landscapes, traditions, and celebrations. Ages 4-10; English edition Barefoot Books 2008

 The Storm Runner by J.C. Cervantes

This middle-grade novel is the first in a trilogy set in present-day Yucatán. It follows Zane Obispo, a boy with a limp, who discovers he is a descendant of the Maya god Huracan. This exciting story weaves in elements of Maya mythology and culture, making it an excellent choice for young readers interested in the region. Ages 8-12, Rick Riordan Presents 2018

 Mexikid written and illustrated by Pedro Martín

This graphic novel about a young boy embarking on a road trip to Mexico with his family is a heartwarming and humorous exploration of family and identity. Ages 9+; Dial Books 2023

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FOOD+BEV

YAKUZA Elegante bar de sushi que se toma su oficio en serio. Gran selección de rollos de mano, nigiri, sashimi y makis, además de acompañamientos como tacos crujientes de salmón y carpaccio de res. Para el verdadero aficionado, derrocha en las láminas de Wagyu A5 o el tataki de rib eye con coles de Bruselas, alioli de trufa y ponzu.

El 47th Street Piano Bar está al lado. Calle 47 478 x 54 y 56, @ yakuzamx OLIVA ENOTECA El primero de los restaurantes de alta gama del Corredor Gastronómico comenzó poco a poco, a un par de cuadras de distancia, con un pequeño local de pasta que tenía filas en la puerta.

El chef y propietario Stefano Marcelletti se crió en Roma y de ahí viene su influencia. Incluso los platillos de pasta más sencillos son una revelación, pero no pases por alto los calamares fritos y el ossobuco. Calle 47 x 54, olivamerida.com HŌMU Restaurante japonés contemporáneo con “una fusión mexicana” y una elaborada presentación de todo, desde sushi hasta sus sopas miso con birria, chilmole y ramen tonkotsu. En la parte trasera hay una serie de puertas de madera. Una de ellas conduce a un bar “secreto”, Ignoto (@ignotomx), los viernes (sesiones house) y sábados (pop y reggaetón). No se lo digas a nadie.

Calle 47 464B x 52 y 54, @ homu.mid ROSA MEXICANO Busca el VW escarabajo en la parte delantera para encontrar un lugar tranquilo para pasar

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el rato con amigos, especialmente si puedes conseguir un asiento en (hasta ahora) la única terraza en la azotea de la cuadra. El menú es tradicional mexicano - tacos de bistec, pollo, chuleta, longaniza o campechano con papas fritas, nopales y cebollitas - y el servicio es amable. Calle 47 464 x 52 y 54, @rosamexicano.yuc

MICAELA MAR Y LEÑA Los comensales pueden olvidar lo extremadamente raro que era un bar de mariscos crudos antes de Micaela. El lugar fue un éxito inmediato por sus mariscos y carnes cocinadas con el humo de un horno de leña. El pulpo es una especialidad particular aquí.

No te pierdas el pequeño bar de cócteles a la derecha al entrar.

Calle 47 458 x 52 y 54, @ micaelamarylena SANDUNGA Camina un poco desde el bullicio hacia La Plancha para encontrar esta joya de la chef/propietaria Araceli Pérez Quiroz, quien aprendió a cocinar de su madre en Oaxaca. Después de la escuela culinaria y de trabajar en Nectar y Oliva, su restaurante es venerado por sus enchiladas de mole casero y tlayuda de arrachera. Lo que ayuda es que su familia envía ingredientes auténticos desde su ciudad natal cada semana. Calle 47 #453 A 50 y 52, @sandunga. mid LA LIBERTAD Otro trasplante del norte de la ciudad, La Libertad es muy popular para el brunch y el almuerzo, con una amplia selección de crepas, waffles, hotcakes, omelets, chilaquiles, tostadas francesas y pan casero.

Un lugar popular para llevar a los padres, tías y tíos un domingo por la mañana o en ocasiones especiales. Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, @lalibertad.db GIN 47 Prosperando en la tierra del mezcal y la cerveza, este es el primer bar de Mérida especializado en ginebra. Gin 47 Mixology & Kitchen abrió sus puertas en 2017 al norte del Centro, pero desde principios

guía

de diciembre ha estado sirviendo más de 60 marcas de ginebra en el Corredor Gastronómico.

Tienen un bar completo, además de un menú completo. Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, @gin47mx

NUT CAFÉ Otro restaurante del norte se ha expandido al Centro con desayunos y brunch.

Nut Café, una alusión a la crema de Nutella que a algunas personas les gusta en sus gofres y panqueques, abrió sus puertas en marzo. De hecho, pequeños tarros de Nutella están en el menú por 90 pesos. Calle 47 461A x 52 y 54, @nutcafemid ANIMA Barbacoa a la leña, de la granja a la mesa, de Ted Habiger, de Kansas City, que ejerce de chef ejecutivo.

Los comensales pasan por delante del impresionante hogar al aire libre donde el cordero, la ternera y el pollo ahumados en casa se convierten en bocados robustos y jugosos. Calle 47 461 x 52 y 54, animaelviento.com CATRÍN Este colorido y a menudo bullicioso restaurante con temática de cantina tiene razón al afirmar que reinventa la cocina mexicana. El ceviche de maracuyá, el risotto y el cerdo estofado fueron especialmente populares entre los críticos. Las selecciones de cócteles también han sido un éxito entre los clientes. Calle 47 463B x 52 y 54, catrin47.com

Anima

CASA REMATE The main floor of the El Remate complex was conceived through the lens of the traditional European brasserie while reflecting the Peninsula’s culinary heritage.

Start the day with Motuleños en Cazuela with Longaniza sausage from Valladolid and return for pork belly en chilimole, slow-cooked for eight hours and served with a demi glacé of its own juices. La Terraza on the roof terrace, take in a view of the Paseo de Montejo. A festive cocktail bar runs along one side of the terrace, staffed with expert mixologists. Tucked away El Gato, is a low-key hideaway with a Raymond Chandler vibe. Calle 47 486 x 56A, elrematedemontejo.mx

130 GRADOS STEAKHOUSE Se sirven filetes y guarniciones de alta calidad en un ambiente íntimo, elegante y a la vez informal. Un nuevo comedor privado da a la Calle 54. Asientos de cafetería en la acera. Muchas opciones sin carne. Para el postre, una versión moderna de Baked Alaska flameado comienza con pan de chocolate y helado de nueces. Calle 47 465 x 52 y 54, @130grados.merida

YAKUZA Elegant sushi bar that takes its craft seriously. Huge selection of hand rolls, nigiri, sashimi, and makis, plus side items such as crispy salmon

Ver más: yucatanmagazine.com/ calle-47

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MANOLO LAGO

CASA REMATE La planta baja del complejo El Remate se concibió a través del lente de la tradicional brasserie europea, a la vez que refleja la herencia culinaria de la Península.

Empieza el día con Motuleños en Cazuela con longaniza de Valladolid y regresa por la panceta de cerdo en chilimole, cocinada a fuego lento durante ocho horas y servida con un demi glacé de sus propios jugos. Arriba está La Terraza, en la terraza de la azotea, disfruta de la vista del Paseo de Montejo. . Escondido, El Gato, es un escondite discreto con un ambiente de Raymond Chandler. Calle 47 486 x 56A, elrematedemontejo.mx

a wide selection of crepes, waffles, hotcakes, omelets, chilaquiles, French toast and homemade bread.

Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, @ lalibertad.db

GIN 47 Thriving in the land of mezcal and beer, this is Mérida’s first bar specializing in gin. Gin 47 Mixology & Kitchen opened in 2017 north of the Centro, but since early December has been pouring more than 60 gin brands.

Full bar, comprehensive menu including charcuterie. Calle 47 459 x 52 y 54, @gin47mx NUT CAFÉ Another restaurant from the north has branched out the Centro with breakfast and brunch.

Nut Café, an allusion to the Nutella spread that some people like on their waffles and pancakes, opened in March. In fact, tiny Nutella jars are on the menu for 90 pesos. brunch war has been declared. Open patio in the rear.

Calle 47 461A x 52 y 54, @ nutcafemid ANIMA Open-flame, farm-to-table barbecue from Kansas City’s Ted Habiger, who serves as executive chef. Diners pass the impressive outdoor hearth where house-smoked lamb, beef, and chicken are coaxed into robust, juicy bites. One big side dish surprise is the beets with avocado jocoque, pine nuts, dill and organic tomatoes. Calle 47 461 x 52 y 54, animaelviento.com birria, chilmole, and tonkotsu ramen. To the rear is a series of wooden doors. One of them leads to a “secret” bar, Ignoto (@ignotomx), on Fridays (house sessions) and Saturdays (pop and reggaeton).

Don’t tell anyone. Calle 47 464B x 52 y 54, @homu.mid

tacos and beef carpaccio. For the true aficionado, splurge on the shavings of Wagyu A5 or the rib eye tataki with Brussels sprouts, truffle aioli and ponzu. 47th Street Piano Bar is adjacent Wed-Sat. Calle 47 478 x 54 y 56, @yakuzamx

OLIVA ENOTECA The first of the Gastronomic Corridor’s high-end restaurants started slow, a couple of blocks away, with a tiny pasta place that had lines out the door. Chef-owner Stefano Marcelletti was raised in Rome and that’s where his influence lies. Even the simplest pasta dishes are a revelation, but don’t overlook the fried calamari and the osso bucco. Calle 47 x 54, olivamerida.com

ROSA MEXICANO Look for the VW bug out front for a chill place to hang out with friends, especially if you can get a seat on (so far) the only roof deck on the block. The menu is traditional Mexicano — tacos bistec, pollo, chuleta, longaniza, or campechano with papas fritas, nopales and cebollitas — and the service is friendly. Calle 47 464 x 52 y 54, @rosamexicano.yuc MICAELA MAR Y LEÑA Diners may forget how extremely rare a raw bar was before Micaela.

The place was an immediate hit for its seafood and meats cooked with

HŌMU Contemporary Japanese restaurant with “a Mexican fusion” and an elaborate presentation of everything from sushi to its miso soups with

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the smoke of a wood-fired oven.

Pulpo is a particular specialty here.

Don’t miss the small cocktail bar to the right as you come in. Very festive if you can find a stool. Calle 47 458 x 52 y 54, @micaelamarylena

SANDUNGA Walk a bit from the fray toward La Plancha to find this gem from Chef/Owner Araceli Perez Quiroz, who learned to cook from her mother in Oaxaca. After culinary school and stints in Nectar and Oliva, her restaurant is revered for its homemade mole enchiladas and tlayuda de arrachera. What helps is her family ships authentic ingredients from her hometown every week. Calle 47 #453 A 50 y 52, @sandunga.mid LA LIBERTAD Another transplant from the north of the city, La Libertad is hugely popular for brunch and lunch, with

CATRÍN This boisterous cantina-themed restaurant rightly holds a claim to reinventing Mexican cuisine.

Passion fruit ceviche, risotto, and braised pork were particularly popular with reviewers. Cocktail selections also have been a hit with customers. Calle 47 463B x 52 y 54, catrin47.com 130 GRADOS STEAKHOUSE High-end steaks are served in an intimate, upscale atmosphere.

A new private dining room faces Calle 54. Cafe seating on the sidewalk. Plenty of non-beef choices. For dessert, a modern version of flaming Baked Alaska starts with chocolate bread and walnut ice cream. Calle 47 465 x 52 y 54, @130grados.merida

See more: yucatanmagazine.com/ calle-47

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FITNESS Jeff Shaw

‘Best’ is overrated DON’T STRIVE FOR THE PERFECT WORKOUT PLAN AT THE EXPENSE OF A GOOD ONE YOU CAN SUSTAIN  Long-term health and fitness aren’t about following trends or doing what others say is “the best” exercise. It’s about consistency and finding joy in movement.

Many people struggle with the misconception that they must engage in the most intense workouts to see results. This mindset can be discouraging, especially if the chosen activities are not enjoyable.

The truth is, the best exercise is the one you will stick with consistently. It’s more beneficial to have a moderate routine you enjoy and can maintain over time than an intense regimen you dread and are likely to abandon.

Consistency is the No. 1 factor in forming a habit. It’s not about how extreme the workout is but how regularly you do it. Establishing a routine with activities you look forward to ensures you stick with it in the long run. This is the idea of not letting the great get in the way of the good.

Finding activities you enjoy can trans-

Jeff Shaw is an Active Lifestyle Coach in Mérida, serving clients over 40, both online and in person.

Learn more at longevity360.life

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form exercise from a chore into a pleasurable part of your day. If you love being outdoors, consider walking, cycling, or paddle boarding. These activities allow you to enjoy nature while getting your heart rate up. Walking, in particular, is often overlooked. Many people think they need to run to stay healthy, but walking provides numerous health benefits, including improved cardiovascular health, reduced stress, and enhanced mood, all while being gentle on the joints.

For those who enjoy social interaction, joining a fitness class can be highly motivating. Whether it’s a dance class, a team sport, or a yoga session, the social element can enhance your commitment and make the experience more enjoyable.

The camaraderie and support from others can be a significant factor in maintaining a regular exercise routine.

If you prefer more structured workouts, consider strength training or bodyweight exercises. These can be done at home, in a gym, or outdoors. Strength training is essential for building muscle, improving bone density, and boosting metabolism. Start with exercises you feel comfortable with and gradually build up as you gain strength and confidence.

Another great option is incorporating flexibility and mindfulness activities such as yoga or Pilates. These improve strength and flexibility and contribute to both physical and mental balance.

Any activity that gets you moving and brings you joy can contribute to your fitness journey.

It’s okay to experiment with different types of exercise until you find what works best for you. Remember, the goal is to make physical activity a regular and enjoyable part of your life, not a temporary fix. Find what you love, and let that be the foundation of your fitness journey.

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WELLBEING Brian D. Mahan, SEP

Flawesome sauce PERFECTION IS THE ENEMY OF AWESOMENESS, ESPECIALLY WHEN LIVING IN A FOREIGN LAND “There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.” — Leonard Cohen  Life has a whimsical way of nudging us out of our comfort zones and into the best version of ourselves.

Adapting to a new culture is like mastering a new piece of technology.

Remember your first smartphone? It promised you the world in the palm of your hand, yet learning how to use it was akin to deciphering an enigma. You had to learn to use the phone the way it was designed to be used. Similarly, navigating foreign banking, real estate, and residency can feel like a maze with shifting walls. It’s easier to buy a car in the US than it is to purchase a phone plan in Mexico.

It’s not about the details and circumstances of our lives as much as it is about who we are and how we show up in the midst of it all. Each obstacle that we overcome guides us toward greater persistence, adaptability, and resilience.

I’m currently deep into a six-monthlong (going on seven) loan application for purchasing real estate. The repeated requests for the same documents and numerous updates are like bureaucratic (not bucolic) Groundhog Day. Yet, this experience can teach patience and fortitude or have you come completely undone.

In this journey, embracing the concept of being “flawesome” becomes crucial.

Flawesome — a mashup of flawed and awesome — reminds us that perfectionism is a myth. Nature doesn’t do perfect, and neither should we. Striving for perfection often paralyzes us, preventing us from starting. It’s like sitting in your car in the driveway and waiting for all the lights to turn green. But when we accept our flaws as part of our charm, we unlock a more

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authentic and powerful version of ourselves.

There are inevitable moments of solitude and self-reflection. Away from the familiar, we confront our vulnerabilities and fears. But in this solitude, we also find strength. We learn it’s okay to be imperfect, to have bad days, to stumble and get back up. This journey isn’t about achieving polished perfection but about embracing our whole selves, flaws and all.

In the end, becoming our best selves is not a solitary endeavor. It’s enriched by the people we meet and the experiences we share. As we navigate life’s challenges, our true strength lies in our ability to adapt, connect, and grow. By embracing our flawesome selves, we continuously evolve and find joy in the process. Happiness follows progress.

By living mindfully and embracing the flawesome within us, we embark on an enriching and transformative path, discovering that the essence of life is not in its perfection but in the beauty of its imperfections. Be your flawesome best.

Brian D. Mahan is a Somatic Experiencing Practitioner (SEP) comes to Mérida via Los Angeles. Brian is a teacher, lecturer, and the author of I Cried All the Way To Happy Hour —What To Do When Self-Help Or Talk Therapy Haven’t Really Helped. Learn more about healing trauma and toxic shame at briandmahan.com

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only gentlemen in the building WHY SOCIETY NEED PLACES LIKE PEPEH FOR MORE THAN A TRIM AND A SHAVE

TEXT BY DAVID N. McILVANEY | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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H

E MOVES LIKE a dancer as he circles the chair, darting in and out to snip a bit here, a touch there. With each snip, there’s an artistic flourish—a flip of his scissors around his pinkie that makes you realize something special is

happening.

Some travelers seek out exotic food, while others visit museums or explore natural wonders. Me? I always arrive in a new country in need of a haircut.

An Istanbul barber once gave me such an authentic Turkish cut that the immigration agent at the airport didn’t believe I was Canadian. I narrowly avoided missing my flight as they pulled me aside to verify my ID. In India, I sat in a chair on a dirt road, surrounded by a small crowd yelling advice to the barber as he used clippers with a questionable sense of sanitation. (He didn’t listen.) My hair has been cut at $300 Park Avenue salons and $12 fifteen-minute special Lower East Side clip joints. I am always surprised and rarely disappointed.

These days, I walk to Calle 65 at the edge of Centro to have my hair cut by one of the finest barbers I’ve ever met: José Juan García, affectionately known as Pepe. He’s personable, funny, humble, and incredibly talented.

PepeH Barbería Tradicional is an old-time barber shop that straddles the modern world and Mérida’s barbering tradition. The vibe is welcoming and chill. Your first visit will feel like walking into a shop you’ve been coming to for years, as have your father and grandfather.

They specialize in classic cuts and hot-towel shaves with a straightforward menu: Haircut, Beard Trim or Shave, and Haircut and Beard. I trim my beard regularly, but I always opt for the 90-minute hair and beard treatment for the hot and cold towels, soothing face creams, straight razor shave, and the chance to simply hang out in the space. (As I write this, I’m listening to Red Astaire, a musician I first heard in the shop.)

Trust is key when trying a new barber. After simply

Old-school hot towel shaves, complete with their comforting ritual...

describing what I’m after, I add, “Do what you think is best,” and then shut up. I recall my first cut with Pepe. We talked so much that I wondered when he’d focus on my hair. Forty minutes and a very interesting conversation later, I looked up to find the best version of myself in the mirror.

I recently sat down with Pepe to hear his story.

At 16, he started humbly, cutting his own hair. Word spread, and soon, he was cutting hair for friends and friends of friends. On a trip to Mexico City, Pepe stumbled upon a barber shop that would change his life.

“There was an older gentleman in the chair who, at the end of the service, said, ‘Gracias, Maestro,’ to the barber.

That was the moment... I wanted to be that barber. But my parents, a lawyer and a teacher, weren’t thrilled about having a barber in the family. I knew I had to study.”

Fortunately, an older barber took him under his wing, teaching him that pride and service mattered most. “My mentor taught me about fresh breath, manicured nails, dressing well, and keeping my station clean. He taught me all the important things about barbering service.

Then I worked in a shop that taught me the business of barbering.”

After a few years, Pepe was ready to go out on his own. “My mom asked, ‘What if you open in my dance studio?’”

It takes more than a pair of scissors to make a barbershop fit for a gentleman.

Warmed towels, hot lather, and aromatic Barbicide are required accoutrements. Right: José Juan García is front and center with his crew of caballeros.

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The dance studio was in his grandparents’ house on Calle 65, and in 2015, he took it over. He named the shop in honor of his grandfather and set up his grandmother’s chair in the front room. Once again, the word spread and the clients came. Now, the shop has four barbers, all trained by Pepe in service and technique.

Look closely, and you’ll see the attention to detail. Each station is perfectly laid out. The shop’s lighting is designed to illuminate and flatter, music is curated for the time of day, and the barbers use classic hand massagers on your shoulders as you relax under a hot towel.

The smocks they wear have the Mexican flag embroidered on the collar, barber pole colors on the side of the pocket, and swing shoulders for ease of movement.

Most people would use an off-the-rack smock, but Pepe wanted these to express his idea of how a proper barber should dress and act and show his pride in being a Mexican barber.

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That nod to tradition paid off.

“I studied with a guy who was the grandson of Fernando Capetillo, the most famous barber in Mérida... he was Pedro Infante’s barber. When I opened my shop, my friend put me in touch with his uncle, who had all the old equipment. He gave me an original razor, and then I saw four chairs in the back. He told me those were broken, so I said, ‘If someday you want to sell them, this is my number.’ Months later, he came to my shop and saw me serving and cutting. He understood. And he told me, ‘My dad’s chair is going to be better here with you. That’s your chair now.’ My chair now... from the most famous barber in Mérida.”

It’s a good chair.

Last fall, I returned to NYC and saw my barber. He ran his fingers through my hair.

“Who gave you your last cut?”

“My barber in Mexico.”

He nodded. “He really knows what he’s doing.” 

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Barberías Mérida

M

ÁS ALLÁ DE sus calles adoquinadas y casas de colores pastel, Mérida alberga otra tradición: el ritual atemporal de la barbería. Es un espacio donde zumban las máquinas, brillan las navajas y las historias, tan antiguas como los mayas, se mezclan con las últimas tendencias.

Adentrarse en una barbería de Mérida es sumergirse en un microcosmos del espíritu yucateco. Estos no son simples establecimientos para cortarse el pelo; son centros sociales, entretejidos en el tejido de la vida comunitaria. Aquí, los padres traen a sus hijos para ese primer corte de pelo que marca un rito de paso, y los jóvenes y modernos se reúnen para domar barbas rebeldes y dar forma a los últimos estilos.

El ambiente es cálido y acogedor. Es una invitación a dejar atrás el ritmo apresurado del mundo exterior: disfrutar de un café de cortesía, entablar conversaciones animadas que van desde las noticias locales hasta el apasionado apoyo a su equipo de fútbol favorito.

Los barberos se toman su trabajo en serio. Son tanto hábiles artesanos como confidentes. Las sillas, algunas tapizadas en cuero desgastado, cuentan historias silenciosas de clientes que las ocuparon antes. El aire vibra con el ritmo reconfortante de las tijeras y el suave zumbido de las máquinas de afeitar eléctricas, creando una sinfonía cautivadora.

La barbería yucateca es un crisol de técnicas tradicionales y estilo moderno. Si bien el corte clásico de caballero sigue siendo un elemento básico, es probable que también veas degradados audaces o diseños meticulosamente grabados en el cabello.

Los afeitados a la antigua con toalla

caliente, con su ritual reconfortante, conviven con las últimas tendencias, demostrando la adaptabilidad de un oficio transmitido de generación en generación.

En el corazón de todo esto yace el legado de los mayas. Los rostros que ves, tanto en las palmas curtidas de los barberos experimentados como en los ojos ansiosos de los aprendices, heredan un linaje ancestral.

Los mayas eran un pueblo de arte e innovación, y ese espíritu sigue vivo en el esmero por el estilo y el orgullo en la apariencia.

En las barberías de Mérida, espera pagar entre 100 y 250 pesos por un corte de pelo estándar para hombres. Los diseños más intrincados, naturalmente, tienen un precio ligeramente superior. Los afeitados con toalla caliente, una verdadera indulgencia, suelen costar unos dólares más.

Aunque la barrera del idioma puede parecer desalentadora para los no iniciados, un verdadero barbero de Mérida facilita la comunicación. Unos pocos gestos y un conocimiento básico de español te llevarán lejos.

A menudo, es el lenguaje compartido del estilo, la comprensión tácita de la apariencia deseada, lo que trasciende cualquier obstáculo lingüístico.

Una visita a la barbería en Mérida ofrece más que un simple aseo. Es una ventana al alma de la ciudad.

Es un testimonio de la herencia y la innovación, del valor atemporal de la conexión.

Es donde, entre risas y el zumbido de las máquinas, no solo sales con una apariencia más nítida, sino también con una comprensión más rica de este rincón cautivador del mundo. Y ese es un recuerdo mucho más valioso que cualquier corte de pelo pueda ofrecer. 

En el corazón de todo esto yace el legado de los mayas.

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Centro’s Best Clip Joints (As ranked on Google)

 4.9

PepeH Barbería Tradicional Calle 65 353 x 38 y 40, Tue - Fri 10 a.m. - 8 p.m., Sat 8 a.m. - 5 p.m., closed SunMon. No phone number. pepehbarberia.com

4.8

Barbería Llanes Calle 52 638F x 83 y 85, Mon - Sat 10 a.m. - 8 p.m., closed Sun. 999-249-7556

4.6

Figaro Barber Shop Av. Colón 503-T at Av. Reforma (Calle 72), García Ginerés, Mon - Fri 10 a.m. 8 p.m., 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sat, closed Sun. 999-239-8763

4.6

Peluquería Unión Calle 71 x 58 y 56, Mon - Sat, 10 a.m. - 7 p.m., closed Sun. 999-255-0876

4.5

Classic Barber Shop Calle 69 x 58 y 60, Mon - Fri 10 a.m. - 8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.7 p.m., closed Sun. 999-193-2493

4.4

HOVEL Barber & Relax Paseo 60, Calle 60 346, Mon - Fri 11 a.m. - 8 p.m., Sat 10 a.m. - 7 p.m., closed Sun. 999-528-7000

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 “This book is beautiful! The photographs are bursting with color and depth. I have many books on Mexican interior design ... and this book is one of the best.”

Mexican: A Journey Through Design

by Newell Turner

Where books are sold.

Mérida sales: info@roofcatmedia.com

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David N. McIlvaney journies to a Yucatecan fishing village in search of tarpon and tranquility

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID N. McILVANEY

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Previous page: A local fishing guide, Ismael Navarro, takes the author out for an expedition. This page: Río Lagartos on a sleepy morning when the time is right for catching tarpon.

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F

ISHING BOATS ARE fishing boats. Some differences in beam and length, draw and height, construction material, and means of propulsion, but basically, they take you to the fish.

However, when it comes to fly fishing, there is a clear-cut difference between a drift boat on a trout river and a tarpon boat in the mangroves.

On a tarpon boat, prayer matters.

It should matter when one has an appointment with a king.

When anglers go to the Yucatán to fly fish, they usually fly to Cancún and head south to Ascension Bay for the Grand Slam of bonefish, permit, and tarpon. I like the first two, but to my mind, the arm-wrenching smash of a tarpon exploding from the water is unparalleled in fly fishing — there is a reason the fish is known worldwide as the Silver King.

Fortunately, the best shot at those is in the mangrove forests that wrap around the northwest side of the Peninsula, from Campeche to Isla Holbox, and, in my opinion, the best fishing is found in a few smaller fishing villages between the two. I was heading to Río Lagartos and San Felipe, two towns nestled in the middle of the Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve.

San Felipe was new to me, but I have spent a lot of time fishing in Río Lagartos. Though only fifteen minutes from each other, the towns couldn’t be more different.

Think of two siblings where one studies hard, dresses appropriately, and is always polite to the elderly, while the other is the wilder, more colorful, and out-too-late younger sibling. San Felipe is the quieter one, while Río Lagartos is brasher and bolder. And as I was about to find out, at times, a little drunker.

I like to DIY when I fly fish, but that’s pretty much impossible in the mangroves. You need a boat that can quickly chase down tarpon and someone who knows where to find them. After dropping my bags at the small and excellent Palomar hotel in Río—as far as I can tell, the only accommodations in town with rod racks outside the door—I crossed the street to look for my friend and guide, Ismael Navarro, for a late-afternoon outing to get the kinks out of my cast.

I first met Ismael a few years earlier. He has spent his life in Río. Though he’s a fishing guide, for a time, he worked as an assistant to a U.S.-based ornithologist.

One day, he was approached in the docks by the scientist, looking for a turquoise-browed motmot. Ismael had no idea what he was talking about, but he was game enough to try and find one. Within two days, Ismael was hired,

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and they began a multi-year professional relationship that took them all over the Yucatán in search of birds. Our chats are always interrupted by rare bird sightings whenever we fish together.

During my “research” for another article on Ismael, we spent many hours sitting in a boat talking about life. He is a great guide and I asked him why he didn’t work for one of the big outfitters in Campeche or Holbox or have more people working for him.

“You could double your business.”

We were on a break, our feet resting on the edge of the boat and cervezas in our hands, when a flamboyance of flamingos passed by overhead. Pale scarlet birds against an azurite blue, like a ’50s postcard from Miami.

He gestured toward the birds and smiled.

“Ya tengo la alegría de vivir.”

I couldn’t argue the point.

We set out across the grass flats, and Ismael jumped onto the casting platform as his motorman, Carlos, steered us into the middle of the lagoon. I searched the waters for any disturbance on the surface when a shift in the wind carried the prayer back to me. It was low and under his breath. My religious Spanish is pretty awful and much worse than my fishing Spanish, so I’m going to interpret badly, but here goes: “It is Sabado. Please let David catch a sábalo.”

Ismael repeated the prayer over and over as we crisscrossed the water until Carlos spotted a reflective cut in the water about 50 meters away. Black dorsal fins silhouetted against the blue-orange light. Tarpon are one of the few saltwater fish that need to breathe air occasionally so they will “break” the water as they search for food and take in air. So unique is this behavior that a roll of tarpon is the collective noun used when describing a group of the fish.

(The author coined roll of tarpon but until he hears better, he’s sticking with it.)

The motor was cut, and I started pulling line off my reel as he poled us around the fish to compensate for the wind. There is always wind on the ocean and the best guides will move you into a favorable spot where the wind will carry your line farther than you can normally reach. Anchored up and three casts later, I dropped a green Puglisi Peanut Butter Fly at 20 meters, and a black fin turned to follow. Rod under my arm and both hands stripping in line, I pulled the fly back as fast as I could through the water. Within a few seconds, the surface exploded as the tarpon smashed the fly. He immediately tail-danced across the surface as I lowered the rod to stop him from breaking me off. “Bowing to the King,” as it is affectionately known. A minute later, we had our first fish in the boat. Like every guided trip I’ve ever taken, the first fish means that THE NIGHT everyone in the boat can now relax. I continued BEFORE A FISHING to fish as we caught up with each other, and the conversation turned to local politics. Ismael TRIP IS LIKE THE informed me that there were elections that NIGHT BEFORE night and I should come to the afterparties.

By 7:30, it was too dark to fish. We pulled YOUR FIRST DAY back into the dock and agreed to meet the next OF SCHOOL, morning at 5. I walked down the malecón to La Torreja, a favorite restaurant that makes the AND I STILL GET best fish tacos I’ve ever eaten. Three tacos and EXCITED ABOUT a couple of cervezas later, I was heading back THE DAY TO COME. to my hotel for an early night when I received 34

Dónde encontrar sábalo » Campeche: Manglares vírgenes con abundante sábalo juvenil » Bahía de la Ascensión: Alojamientos y guías establecidos, diversas especies de flats y sábalos de 2 a 13 kilos » Isla Blanca: Ecosistema prístino con sábalos de 2 a 18 kilos, accesible desde Cancún » Isla Holbox: Sábalos trofeo de hasta 86 kilos durante la temporada alta » San Felipe: Pesquería sin descubrir con gran cantidad de sábalos de 2 a 7 kilos » Río Lagartos: Ciudad hermana de San Felipe con excepcionales llanuras de pasto para la pesca » Tabasco: Acción ininterrumpida con sábalos de 1 a 7 kilos en un entorno auténtico

Where to find tarpon » Campeche: Untouched mangrove wilderness with abundant baby tarpon » Ascension Bay: Established lodges and guides, diverse flats species, and 5-30 pound tarpon » Isla Blanca: Pristine ecosystem with 5-40 pound tarpon, accessible from Cancún » Isla Holbox: Trophy tarpon up to 190 pounds during peak season » San Felipe: Undiscovered fishery with high numbers of 5-15 pound tarpon » Río Lagartos: Sister city to San Felipe with exceptional grass flats fishing » Tabasco: Non-stop action with 1- to 7-kilo tarpon in an authentic Mexican environment

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A deck hand, Pedro Figueroa Coral, grabs a tarpon off the author’s fishing line.

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While fishing at San Felipe, it’s good to also kick back and appreciate the blue skies and waters.

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a text from Ismael inviting me to join him at one of the parties. I wrote back to say that I would see him in the morning.

The night before a fishing trip is like the night before your first day of school, and I still get excited about the day to come. I drifted in and out as I waited for the alarm.

With coffee in my hand and two rods strung up, I sat on the dock watching the sky lighten and the first fisherman set out to sea. I sent Ismael a message at 5:15, then 5:30, then 6. By 7, my patience ran out, and I walked back to my room, threw my gear in a bag, and drove to San Felipe. I quickly arranged to meet with Pedro Figueroa Coral, AKA the San Felipe Fish Whisperer, a guide recommended by a friend in Mérida.

We talked about the fishery and his history as an angler and guide, learning from his father and teaching his son. Pedro was booked on a birding tour that afternoon, so we agreed to fish early the next morning at 6:30.

As we got to know each other, I received a series of messages from Ismael apologizing for drinking too much and sleeping in, missing our start time. I wrote back to say that I would see him another time. I want to be clear and fair about something. I have fished with Ismael often, and this was the first time anything like this had happened. He has gone out of his way to accommodate me, has given me his time freely, has not charged me to fish, and is generally a great guy. I encourage anyone looking for a good independent guide in the area to book him. I will again. Just not the day after the elections.

I spent the afternoon exploring the streets of this new town, tried the excellent ceviche at Restaurante Danilu, and stopped to enjoy a cigar in the shade of a pavilion along the boardwalk. It’s hard to use another descriptor for San Felipe other than sleepy. Maybe pretty. Probably both.

By the time dinner rolled around, I felt that I needed a little more “action,” so I drove back to Río. As always, there was a gathering in the zocalo of food, amusements, and people, and I settled into a fish soup while watching some fishermen netting their dinner along the docks.

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A day of fly-fishing ends with a plate of take-away fish tacos back on land.

In the morning and on time, I followed Pedro to his boat. We loaded up and headed south with his namesake son at the motor. Thirty minutes later, Pedro slowed alongside the shore and instructed me to start casting to the edges of the mangroves. The fishing in San Felipe is different.

While Río Lagartos sits on a large protected lagoon, San Felipe opens to the ocean. A strong wind was at our backs, and it was easy for me to get my fly close to the submerged roots of the mangroves.

For the most part, this was blind casting but no less productive. My biggest tarpon of the weekend came out of a random cast, and after a mad dash to untangle my line, I steered him into the boat.

One of the things I liked about Pedro was that he was all about fishing. As we poled our way along the shore, our conversation was focused on the water, my cast, and the fish we hoped to catch.

With the sun dropping and the wind dying, we headed back to the lagoon around San Felipe to look for rolling tarpon. Found a few and brought them to the boat. There was another guide boat

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fishing a very large roll of tarpon, and I appreciated that Pedro let them have their spot as we took a wide berth around them.

Respect among guides who see each other every day is a good thing.

The day ended late in the afternoon, and I thanked him for his time. I had a two-and-a-half-hour drive ahead of me but wasn’t in any rush, so I drove back to Ría and picked up some takeaway fish tacos. I found a quiet spot on the docks and ate my meal accompanied by a bottle of whisky I had brought along.

Whisky on the tongue, a little fish juice running down my face, and a beautiful ocean sunset in front of me, there was nothing else to do but sit quietly and let the sun set.

La alegría de vivir. 

Fishing for Contacts in San Felipe Ismael Navarro +52 986-108-2648 Palomar Hotel +52 986-104-8204

Pedro Figueroa Coral +52 986-105-9737 sanfelipefishwhisperer.com

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APPOINTMENTS 999-645-3945 drgilbertomedina.com IG: @dr.gilmedina

SHAPE — Instituto de Cirugía Plástica, Estética & Reconstructiva Calle 4 Diag. 136, Residencial Montecristo, Mérida

FOR US VOTERS

Living abroad is no excuse for ignoring elections

W

ITH APPROXIMATELY 1.5 million U.S. citizens residing in Mexico, their collective vote has the potential to significantly impact the election outcome.

To take part in the election, it’s important to register and request your ballot as soon as possible.

Registration can be completed at VoteFromAbroad.org, and your voting location will be based on your last U.S. residence, no matter how long ago you lived there. You must request your ballot for each election year, and the website will guide you through the Federal Post Card Application process, which is the form used by overseas voters to request ballots. To ensure timely receipt of your ballot, opt for email delivery.

Carefully follow your state’s specific guidelines to ensure your vote is counted. While most states allow

online submission of completed registrations, if your state requires postal return, you can either ask someone traveling to the U.S. to deliver it or use the U.S. Consulate in Mérida, which provides a mail pouch in the lobby for registration forms and ballots.

Dual citizens who have never voted in the U.S. are also eligible to vote. In 38 states, citizens who have never lived in the U.S. can vote based on the last U.S. residence of their American parent.

Once registered, you should receive your ballot by email on Sept. 21, which is 45 days before the election. Vote as soon as you receive your ballot so it reaches your state in time. Most states require postal return, so print your ballot and

postage-paid envelopes and follow your state’s instructions for completing and signing your ballot.

If you plan to mail your ballot through the U.S. Consulate, do so by Oct. 1 to ensure it arrives on time.

Federal law allows voting for president, vice president and Congress. Some states also permit voting in state and local elections. It’s crucial to carefully read and follow all instructions, ensuring all necessary signatures are in place, to avoid rejected ballots.

Your vote holds significant power.

For additional assistance, visit democratsabroad.org/ VoteFromMexico.

Available in Mexico Merida English Library Punto MID Cultural Somos Voces—CDMX

Amazon Barnes & Noble

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Construyendo robots, desarrollando futuros líderes

N EL CORAZÓN de la Colonia Miguel Aleman, directora, no solo ha sido instrumental en la creación del a una cuadra y media del vibrante Parque de la currículo original en Estados Unidos, sino que también Aleman, se encuentra una casa que, a primera vista, ha sido la fuerza impulsora detrás de la adaptación y crecse mimetiza con el ritmo tranquilo del vecindario. imiento de este modelo educativo en México.

Sus muros color pastel y su arquitectura Una inmersión en el mundo de Colossal modesta se funden con el entorno, pero un detalle Academy revela un universo educativo fasciTEXTO Y rompe la monotonía: una pancarta vibrante cuelga nante, donde la escritura de código y la construcFOTOGRAFÍA: ABRAHAM del balcón del segundo piso, proclamando con ción de robots son el pan de cada día. Aquí, el BOJÓRQUEZ letras audaces: “Colossal Academy Kids, admisiones aprendizaje no se limita a los libros de texto, sino abiertas. Cultivamos el genio en cada niño”. que se expande a través de la experimentación Este es el hogar de Colossal Academy, un faro de innopráctica, con el objetivo de nutrir a la próxima generación vación en la escena educativa de Mérida. A diferencia de de mentes brillantes y cosmopolitas que darán forma al las instituciones tradicionales, Colossal Academy es un futuro de Yucatán. centro de aprendizaje alternativo que ha echado raíces en La pasión de Courtney por la educación ha trazado suelo yucateco, inspirado por su escuela hermana en Fort un camino excepcional a lo largo de su vida. Originaria Lauderdale, Florida. Courtney Nicolaides, cofundadora y de California, ha recorrido el mundo en busca de experi-

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encias enriquecedoras. Desde la construcción de escuelas en el continente africano hasta la dirección de una prestigiosa institución educativa en la Ciudad de México, su trayectoria está marcada por una diversidad de vivencias que han moldeado su visión y la han llevado a encontrar su hogar en Mérida.

Su periplo educativo la condujo a Europa del Este, donde enseñó inglés a niños en edad preescolar por las mañanas y a empresarios por las tardes. En Praga, obtuvo una maestría en estudios postcomunistas y trabajó como coordinadora de estudiantes internacionales en una universidad.

“He trabajado en todos los tipos de escuelas imaginables”, reflexiona Courtney sobre su etapa en la Ciudad de México, que comenzó alrededor de 2006. Durante ese tiempo, fue directora de una escuela de élite en el exclusivo barrio de Santa Fe, enfrentando desafíos inesperados, como la desaparición temporal del hijo de un embajador. A principios de la década de 2010, en el apogeo del movimiento de autodefensas en Michoacán, trabajó en Zirahuen, un municipio rural, administrando pruebas de comprensión lectora para la Fundación Lazos, en medio de una atmósfera tensa y peligrosa.

La pandemia, como para muchos, marcó un punto de inflexión en la vida de Courtney y su esposo.

Anhelaban un cambio, un nuevo comienzo. “Soñaba con vivir junto al mar”, recuerda. Exploraron Puerto Vallarta y Puerto Escondido, pero finalmente encontraron su refugio en Progreso, Yucatán, antes de establecerse definitivamente en Mérida en 2022.

La llegada de su hija a la edad escolar coincidió con este cambio de vida, y la decisión de abrir una sucursal de Colossal Academy surgió del deseo de brindarle la mejor educación posible. La casa que alquilaron se transformó en un espacio de aprendizaje vibrante, con aulas luminosas y un ambiente acogedor. La publicidad inicial en Facebook atrajo a algunas familias, pero fue el boca a boca el que consolidó la comunidad escolar.

“Tenemos familias de Canadá, Inglaterra, Kenia, Yucatán y otras partes de México”, comenta Courtney.

“Los niños aprenden medio día en español y medio día en inglés, lo que enriquece su experiencia cultural y lingüística”.

El método Colossal se basa en principios sólidos: naturaleza, tecnología, comunidad, personalización y aprendizaje práctico. La clave es aplicar el conocimiento teórico a situaciones de la vida real y fomentar las disciplinas STEM (ciencia, tecnología, ingeniería y matemáticas), complementadas con artes, música y deportes.

“Organizamos un espectáculo de marionetas y luego

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la misma persona regresa para enseñar a los niños cómo hacer las marionetas”, explica Courtney. “Se trata de conectar las experiencias en el aula con el mundo real”.

En lo que antes era un garaje, ahora hay instalaCourtney ciones llamativas y un par Nicolaide de conejillos de indias. El próximo proyecto es un huerto con cabras para fertilizarlo. “¡La idea es tener robots y cabras conviviendo!”, dice Courtney con una sonrisa.

A principios de 2024, Colossal Academy contaba con 15 estudiantes, de entre 2 y 6 años, y tres aulas amplias y bien iluminadas. Mientras que el debate sobre el papel de la tecnología en la educación infantil es constante, Colossal Academy la aborda con curiosidad y optimismo.

“Tenemos algunos robots aquí con los que trabajan los niños. Hacemos robótica para bebés, los inicios de la codificación. Nos gusta combinar el principio del reciclaje con la robótica; recientemente hicieron un robot con un cepillo de dientes usado. También enseñamos un poco de Scratch, un lenguaje de programación para videojuegos”.

Courtney, personalmente interesada en aprovechar la AIl como herramienta, también ha enseñado a los niños a utilizar generadores de imágenes de IA para ilustrar cosas que vieron en una excursión. En su oficina, hay un modelo planetario. Resulta que los profesores utilizaron Arduino y ChatGPT para escribir el código de un modelo que ayudó a los niños a entender el eclipse.

La filosofía de Colossal Academy es que la cantidad adecuada de tecnología puede enriquecer enormemente el proceso educativo y preparar a los niños para el mundo que enfrentarán.

“Esta escuela es para personas que desean que sus hijos aprendan competencias con visión de futuro.

Espero que eso incluya a extranjeros, pero también a la población local de todo tipo y condición social”, dice Courtney. “Este no es el lugar para alguien que quiere que su hijo aprenda a sentarse, estar callado y copiar del pizarrón. Creemos en el respeto, la responsabilidad y todos esos valores, pero el mundo está cambiando y necesitamos adaptarnos”.

Courtney está comprometida con Colossal a largo plazo.

“Estoy muy agradecida de tener niños tan buenos, de que mi hija tenga una buena escuela y de que tengamos una buena vida. Si lo sueñas, intentas hacerlo realidad...”

Las lágrimas comienzan a brotar en sus ojos, su voz tiembla con la emoción de alguien que sabe lo duro que ha trabajado por algo. “...Está sucediendo para nosotros”. 

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Building robots, developing future leaders

T THE HEART of Colonia Miguel Aleman, about a block and a half away from the park, there’s a house that blends in quite well with the neighborhood. You wouldn’t look twice if it weren’t for the large banner hanging from the second floor’s balcony: “Colossal Academy Kids, admissions open. We cultivate the genius in every child.”

Colossal Academy is a recent addition to the alternative education centers scene in Mérida. Co-founder and director Courtney Nicolaides contributed to building the original school’s curriculum in Florida and then brought the system here, where writing code and building robots is part of a hands-on approach to raising the next generation.

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After the Pandemic, Courtney and her husband realized that they wanted to have a different kind of life.

“I had this dream of us living by the beach,” she recalls.They landed in Progreso, their first home in Yucatán, before finally settling in Mérida in 2022.

The move coincided with their daughter reaching the age at which she was ready to attend school, so the decision to open a branch of Colossal Academy was very much motivated by the desire to provide her with the best education possible.

They rented the house and spent time painting it and modifying it to fit the purpose of a place for learning.

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mouth that brought in the rest.

“We have families from Canada, England, Kenya, Yucatán, and other parts of Mexico. The children are learning half a day in Spanish, and the other half in English.”

The Colossal method’s principles are nature, tech, community, personalization, and learning by doing.

“We’ll have a puppet show, and then the same person will come back and show the kids how to make the puppets. That’s what it’s all about, connecting the experiences in the classroom to the real world.”

At what would be the garage, there are some coollooking installations and a couple of guinea pigs. The next stage will be a huerto, or vegetable garden, with some goats to fertilize it. “The idea is to have some robots and some goats hanging around together!” she laughs.

Yes, robots. The role of technology in children’s upbringing is approached with curiosity and optimism.

“We have some robots here that the kids work with.

We do baby robotics, the beginnings of coding. We like to combine the principle of recycling with robotics, they recently made a robot with a used toothbrush. We also

teach a little bit of Scratch, a language for video game programming.”

She has also taught the kids how to use AI image generators to illustrate things they saw on a field trip.The whole philosophy seems to be that the right amount of technology can greatly enrich the educational process and prepare children for the world they’ll be facing.

“This school is for people who would like to have their kids learn future-forward competencies. I hope that those are extranjeros, but also the local population of all sorts, of all walks of life,” Courtney says. “This is not the place for somebody who wants their kid to learn to sit down and be quiet and copy off the board. And we believe in respect and responsibility and all those values, but the world is changing and we need to adapt.”

Courtney is in for the long run with Colossal.

“If you dream it, you try to make it happen…” Tears begin to gather in her eyes, her voice trembles with the emotion of someone who knows how hard they’ve worked for something. “... It’s happening for us.” 

On the ranch, teaching kids comes naturally

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BOUT HALFWAY THROUGH the Mérida-Progreso highway, a family-run ranch conducts its daily operations at the end of a quiet, unpaved road: cows chewing, horses getting a shower, and a chicken wandering around.

But by 10 in the morning, giggles, yelling, and quick little footsteps fill the air. It’s break time at Comunidad Educativa San Antonio (CESA), Rancho San Antonio’s very own kindergarten and elementary school.

Based on the idea that kids should grow up loving and interacting with nature, the ranch owners took a leap of faith. They decided to build an educational community around their passion, their business, and their home.

Owners Gerardo González and YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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ALTERNATIVE SCHOOLS Diana Méndez, as well as its principal, Landy Gasca, unearth the story of this unique school. Rancho San Antonio has existed for over 50 years, 20 of which have been in the hands of Diana’s family. Ten years ago, she took over as its leader.

“The first 20 years of its history, there was an aggressive approach to managing the land, as is common in most farms. Deforestation, agrochemicals, etc. We realized it wasn’t sustainable, so we took some measures. We stopped using herbicides. We planted trees so that cows could feed from what is above and below. We began to replicate what occurs in nature.”

Diana describes this transformation with the wide eyes of someone who loves what they do. We’re sitting at the outdoor tables of the market-turned-school cafeteria. The ranch has gradually been adapted to include the school and everything that comes with it.

“Due to more gentle land management, there was an increased diversity of plants and nutrients, which filled the farm with migratory birds. That’s when we started to get visits from birdwatchers, who told us that some species hadn’t been seen in this area for many years,” Gerardo says excitedly.

These visits made Diana remember her late father’s wishes, from whom she had inherited the operation. He never profited much from it, but he was “... CHILDREN COME genuinely proud of Rancho San Antonio.

HERE,AND THEY He enjoyed sharing SMELL, PET THE it with others and ANIMALS, TASTE THE dreamed of bringing families to the site LEAVES, AND THEIR and turning it into a community. In a way, SENSES AWAKEN.” he is the reason the school exists.

“When I met Gerardo, there was an instant click,” reminisces Diana with a subtle smile. “We shared the same values and life goals. We began to build a life together, and with that came making plans for a family.

How were we going to raise our kids? Would we take them to school? I remember telling him, ‘You take care of the farm, I’ll homeschool the kids.’ I wanted them to learn what we do, what a farm is, what nature is.”

Things got serious when Diana became pregnant with their first son, Gerardito, who made the school a reality.

But it wasn’t after the Pandemic that everything seemed to fall into place. It began with acquaintances asking Diana and Gerardo to visit the farm with their families, blow off some of that lockdown steam, and enjoy time outdoors without a mask.

“I noticed so much that kids don’t know,” recalls Gerardo. “Many years ago, it was common to have 46

Gerardo González and Diana Méndez

family members who had backyards with gardens and animals. Now? Not so much. So, children come here, and they smell, pet the animals, taste the leaves from the plants, and their senses awaken.”

They uploaded some photos from these first family visits to their social media. More people inquired about visiting. More people came. They decided to do regular guided tours through the different areas of the farm.

That turned into summer school. Gerardo was becoming more confident about developing an educational project by this point. But what made it possible was a reunion with an old friend, who turned out to be the missing piece of the puzzle.

Enter Landy Gasca. An educational psychologist, before joining the school, she had spent her working years in Mérida’s private school circuit: first as a teacher, then as head of the department, and finally as principal.

“We’re obsolete,” says Landy matter-of-factly. She is referring to the conventional education system. “I realized that traditional schooling isn’t the way. Frustrated that there was nothing I could do to change the system, I ISSUE 14

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took a step back and gave myself a break from working.”

She’d known Gerardo for over 15 years, but they had lost track of each other. During the Pandemic, Landy asked to visit the farm with her daughter, and she became one of the families pioneering the guided tours.

The girls would ride horses and run around.

Gerardo seized on these visits to spark a conversation about building an educational project. The talks got more serious and specific until they became meetings in which they discussed what it would take to actually do it. In early 2023, Gerardo told Landy that he wanted to open the school in September of that year.

With only a half year to bring CESA to life, Landy spent a month creating an official handbook, merging Gerardo and Diana’s ideas with her knowledge in education and schooling.

“I delivered the handbook, and Gerardo said, ‘Great.

Why don’t you run the school?’ And that’s how I came on board as principal.”

The curriculum is built on three main pillars: First, student development, which focuses on self-discovery through art, music, and Yoga. Then, a farm project, which includes activities related to agriculture, livestock, aviculture, beekeeping, and horseriding. Finally, there are academics, where the artistic experience and the farm activities are brought to a cognitive level. Some subjects include mathematical thinking, language / communication, science, history, and geography.

CESA is fully bilingual with students from all over North America, and countries including Australia, England, and Denmark.

The three agree on what they want to see in CESA alumni: someone with a perspective founded on nature.

“They don’t have to be farmers. If they are chefs, they will make sure their ingredients are grown correctly and of the best quality. If they are architects, they will understand the importance of building in harmony with nature, as opposed to tearing every tree down to build a building on top.”

Gerardo and Diana say they have been pressured to sell their land to developers, but they refuse.

“For me, it comes down to a question,” Diana says.

“What do I see myself doing? I don’t see myself just having money. I see myself raising my family, planting seeds, teaching, showing people around the farm. That is my main driving force. With this project, there’s an opportunity to transcend. With money, the only thing you can do is spend it.”

Then it’s Gerardo’s turn to answer.

“We wake up every day in the best mood. Some of the trees you see, we planted them many years ago, we watered them when they were tiny, and now we enjoy their fruit. It excites me to know that sometime in the future, I’ll be able to see these young ones educated better.

I’ll look forward to the fruit they yield for society.”  YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

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Una educación natural

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mitad de la carretera Mérida-Progreso, al final de un tranquilo camino sin pavimentar, se encuentra un rancho familiar donde las vacas pastan, los caballos reciben un baño y las gallinas deambulan libremente.

Pero a las 10 de la mañana, risas, gritos y pasos rápidos llenan el aire. Es la hora del recreo en la Comunidad Educativa San Antonio (CESA), el jardín de infantes y escuela primaria del Rancho San Antonio.

Basándose en la idea de que los niños deben crecer amando e interactuando con la naturaleza, los dueños del rancho decidieron dar un salto de fe. Decidieron construir una comunidad educativa en torno a su pasión, su negocio y su hogar.

Los propietarios, Gerardo González y Diana Méndez, junto con la directora, Landy Gasca, desvelan la historia de esta escuela única. El Rancho San Antonio ha existido por más de 50 años, 20 de los cuales han estado en manos de la familia de Diana. Hace diez años, ella asumió el liderazgo.

“Los primeros 20 años de su historia, hubo un enfoque agresivo en el manejo de la tierra, como es común en la mayoría de las granjas. Deforestación, agroquímicos, etc. Nos dimos cuenta de que no era sostenible, así que tomamos algunas medidas. Dejamos de usar herbicidas. Plantamos árboles para que las vacas pudieran alimentarse de lo que hay arriba y abajo. Comenzamos a replicar lo

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Landy Gasca leads the ranch-turnedschool.

que ocurre en la naturaleza”.

Diana describe esta transformación con los ojos brillantes de alguien que ama lo que hace. Estamos sentados en las mesas al aire libre de la cafetería de la escuela, que antes era un mercado. El rancho se ha ido adaptando gradualmente para incluir la escuela y todo lo que conlleva.

“Debido a un manejo más suave de la tierra, hubo una mayor diversidad de plantas y nutrientes, lo que llenó la granja de aves migratorias. Fue entonces cuando empezamos a recibir visitas de observadores de aves, que nos dijeron que algunas especies no se habían visto en esta zona durante muchos años”, dice Gerardo.

Estas visitas hicieron que Diana recordara los deseos de su difunto padre, de quien había heredado la operación. Él nunca obtuvo muchas ganancias, pero estaba genuinamente orgulloso del Rancho San Antonio. Disfrutaba compartiéndolo con otros y soñaba con traer familias al lugar y convertirlo en una comunidad.

En cierto modo, él es la razón por la que existe la escuela.

“Cuando conocí a Gerardo, hubo una conexión instantánea”, recuerda Diana con una sutil sonrisa. “Compartíamos los mismos valores y objetivos de vida. Comenzamos a construir una vida juntos, y con eso vinieron los planes para una familia. ¿Cómo íbamos a criar a nuestros hijos? ¿Los llevaríamos a la escuela? Recuerdo haberle dicho: ‘Tú te encargas de la granja, yo educaré a los niños en casa’. Quería que aprendieran lo que hacemos, qué es una granja, qué es la naturaleza”.

Las cosas se pusieron serias cuando Diana quedó embarazada de su primer hijo, Gerardito, quien hizo que la escuela se hiciera realidad.

Pero no fue hasta después de la pandemia que todo pareció encajar. Comenzó con conocidos pidiéndoles a Diana y Gerardo que visitaran la granja con sus familias, para liberar algo de la tensión del encierro y disfrutar del tiempo al aire libre sin mascarilla.

“Hace muchos años, era común tener familiares que tenían 48

patios traseros con jardines y animales”, recuerda Gerardo. “¿Ahora?

No tanto. Así que los niños vienen aquí, huelen, acarician a los animales, prueban las hojas de las plantas y sus sentidos se despiertan”.

Subieron algunas fotos de estas primeras visitas familiares a sus redes sociales. Más gente preguntó por visitar. Más gente vino.

Decidieron hacer visitas guiadas regulares por las diferentes áreas de la granja. Eso se convirtió en una escuela de verano. Gerardo estaba cada vez más seguro de desarrollar un proyecto educativo en este punto. Pero lo que lo hizo posible fue un reencuentro con una vieja amiga, que resultó ser la pieza que faltaba en el rompecabezas.

Landy Gasca, psicóloga educativa, antes de unirse a la escuela, había pasado sus años de trabajo en el circuito de escuelas privadas de Mérida: primero como maestra, luego como jefa de departamento y finalmente como directora.

“Estamos obsoletos”, dice Landy con naturalidad. Se refiere al sistema educativo convencional. “Me di cuenta de que la educación tradicional no es el camino. Frustrada porque no había nada que pudiera hacer para cambiar el sistema, di un paso atrás y me tomé un descanso del trabajo”.

Conocía a Gerardo desde hacía más de 15 años, pero habían perdido el contacto. Durante la pandemia, Landy pidió visitar la granja con su hija y se convirtió en una de las familias pioneras en las visitas guiadas. Las niñas montaban a caballo y corrían por ahí.

Gerardo aprovechó estas visitas para iniciar una conversación sobre la construcción de un proyecto educativo. Las conversaciones se volvieron más serias y específicas hasta que se convirtieron en reuniones en las que discutían lo que se necesitaría para hacerlo realidad. A principios de 2023, Gerardo le dijo a Landy que quería abrir la escuela en septiembre de ese año.

Con solo medio año para darle vida, Landy pasó un mes creando un manual, fusionando las ideas de Gerardo y Diana con su conocimiento en educación y escolarización.  ISSUE 14

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MANOLO TAURE

OUR READERS HAVE SPOKEN Where should I go? Who should I see? Sometimes you just need someone’s advice. That’s why we asked our readers to vote on their favorite places to eat, shop and play in Yucatán. We learned a lot as over 4,000 readers chose the Top 2 or 3 in each of over 60 categories.

So thanks to everyone who participated. Some votes were soooooo close, and some were a total surprise. But here we go.

Ta c o s

WAYAN’E

La Libertad

Breakfast & Brunch

LA LIBERTAD

An old casona on the Gastronomic Corridor is now a worthy participant in the Calle 47 brunch war. They have a huge menu, but we recommend anything with poblano chiles. See our Food on 47 Guide starting on page 18 for more details. lalibertaddb.com

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This is where the blue-collar workers go, the ones who need sustinence to lay the bricks, bury the pipes and pour the cement. Go before 2 p.m. because these guys eat fast, and Wayan’e doesn’t believe in cooking second batches.

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

FB: @WayaneChenku

MARMALADE 47

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

marmalade.mx

LA LUPITA

EL REMATE CAFÉ

IG: @taquerialalupitacom

elrematedemontejo.mx

LOS TROMPOS lostrompos.com.mx

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Wayan’e

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Pa n u c h o s

LA SUSANA INTERNACIONAL

Their most famous location in Kanasín was a pandemic casualty, but the locations in Altabrisa and Francisco de Montejo keep the legend alive. They are the runaway favorite for panuchos, sopa de lima and other traditional Yucatecan dishes.

999-193-3122, or on Rappi / UberEats

S i l ve r & B r o n z e TAQUERÍA EL AMANECER FB: @taqueriaelamanecer1

LA CASA DEL PANUCHO La Susana

FB: @labendiciondediosmerida

Coffee Shop

MÁRAGO COFFEE

On Paseo de Montejo and Calle 60, this café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from a broad menu. Great for socializing or buring yourself in your laptop. Customers do both.

IG: @maragocoffee.mx 52

S i l ve r & B r o n z e ARISTA BARISTA

MANIFESTO COFFEE

IG: @aristabarista_mid

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FROM TOP: COURTESY, LEE STEELE

Márago on Paseo de Montejo

Ham bu rgers

FLAMANTE BURGERS Over 45% of voters picked this friendly, independently owned restaurant whose secret beef mix has garnered rave reviews since it opened over five years ago. This year, Flamante Burgers introduced fried chicken sandwiches and expanded its fresh salad menu. Side note: When we had a launch party for a recent issue, the vegan quinoa burger went as quickly as the one with meat. flamanteburgers.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e MITICA EDUARDO VÁZQUEZ

miticaburgers.com

BRYAN’S BURGER BAR bryansburgerbar.com Flamante

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Fine Dining

Pizza

OLIVA ENOTECA

PIZZERIA OLIVA

The first to plant its flag what was to be Calle 47’s “restaurant row,” Oliva Enoteca hasn’t lost its edge. Not just for pasta (see below) or pizza (page 54) but for the overall experience. olivamerida.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e MICAELA MAR & LEÑA

YERBA SANTA

restaurantemicaela.com

yerbasantamerida.com

Pa s t a

Our survey was released only five months after Oliva’s second pizzeria opened just steps from Enoteca, which won for fine dining (flip back for that).

They are known for a wide and creative selection of toppings and an artisan dough made with “00” flour imported from Italy and fermented for 48 hours.

Pizza Neo, in second place, is also relatively new, selling by the slice Coney Island boardwalk style, on the Remate. olivamerida.com/pizzeria

We have watched Oliva grow from a hole-in-the-wall to practially an empire, and the pasta is what first propelled it. We forgive Stefano Marcelletti for the extra pounds we’ve gained.

S i l ve r & B r o n z e PIZZA NEO

olivamerida.com

pizzaneo.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

PIZZA E CORE ESKONDIDA PIZZA PIZZERIA RAFFAELLO

TRATTORIA LA PASTA trattorialapasta.com

EUREKA FB: @eurekacucinaitaliana

IG: @pizzaecoremeridayucatan / @eskondidapizza / @pizzeriaraffaello

Oliva Enoteca

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OLIVA ENOTECA

Stefano Marcelletti at Pizzeria Oliva

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La Negrita

Bar / Pub S i l ve r & B r o n z e

LA NEGRITA

A self-described “dive bar” that seems to have redefined the Mérida cantina. It’s trendy, youthful, and filled with good vibes.

HENNESSY’S IRISH PUB

cantinanegrita.com

FB: hirishpub

BIRD thebird.mx

Ve g e t a r i a n / Ve ga n E a t s

EL APAPACHO

The menu isn’t totally vegetarian, but its plant-based Mexican cuisine pleases their customers — and they are loyal. The place is known for its laid-back vibe and cool library in front.

FROM TOP: PATRICIA ROBERT, COURTESY

FB: @elapapacho

S i l ve r & B r o n z e ORGANICO BAR DE CAFÉ & COCINA

JAJAJANA IG: jajajanacafe

IG: organicomerida

El Apapacho

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Sean Hennessy

Fish & Chips

COURTESY

HENNESSY’S IRISH PUB

Battered cod and steak fries with slaw? Yes, please. For expats, the ultimate taste of home is authentic pub food, and that means a trip to Mérida’s homiest pub, our readers say.

FB: @hirishpub

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e SILVER FISH

TASTE AT LOU’S

IG: @silverfishmx

tastemerida.com

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C o m f o r t Fo o d

BOSTON’S

Four locations and a wide choice of sports-bar noshes made this Canadian chain restaurant part of the quick-casual scene. bostons.com.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e HENNESSY’S IRISH PUB FB: @hirishpub

ZINC COMFORT FOOD FB: @ zinccomfortfoodmerida Boston’s Altabrisa

T h a i Fo o d

LA CASA DE LOS LOTOS

WIN-FA

This three-branch comida China chain, with the steam table and takeout service, beat out several gourmet Asian restaurants. We are obviously nostalgic for the shopping mall food court.

IG: the_lotus_house_baca

Various locations

MEISHI MAO IG: @meishi.mao

ORIENTAL CITY

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

orientalcity.com.mx

BANGKOK CASA THAI

THAI-THAI

FB: @Bangkokmx-Casa-Thai

IG: @thaithaimid

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CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

C h i n e s e Fo o d

Readers find it worth the trip to Baca for the fresh rice and curry dishes, and to visit the magnificent network of koi ponds.

Pan & Kof.feé is known for its selection of baked goods.

PATRICIA ROBERT

Pa n a d e r í a

PAN & KOF.FEÉ

It’s stunning to watch the day’s croissants, rolls, and sweet breads in production in the sealed workroom loft protected from Mérida’s humidity. The extra step obviously pays off.

IG: @panandkoffee

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e SOCO

ESCARGOT

socomerida.com

IG: @ escargotpanaderiaartesanal

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Pa s t e l e r í a

TERE CAZOLA

Teresa Cazola is a real person with an inspriring story. In the 1980s, Tere was a school teacher with a sideline, selling baked goods from her kitchen. Now her cakes are sold across Mexico. terecazola.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e PISTACHE

EL GLOBO

pistachemerida.com.mx

elglobo.com.mx

Steakhouse

TEXAS ROADHOUSE

Who would have thought a chain from Indiana (not Texas) would sweep the more upscale competition here? Readers love the price points as well as the festive, friendly atmosphere. trhmerida.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e 130° STEAKHOUSE 130grados.mx

SANBRAVO

C r a f t B r e we r y

Buffet

PATITO

CAFÉ MONTEJO

We have watch this small local brand go big, and now they’re served in numerous locations around Mérida. Consider that not that long ago, the craft beer scene here was virtually nil.

An upset! Fiesta Americana’s vast buffet beat Hyatt’s Peregrina Bistro across the street by 15 points. Ouch!

FB: @CervezaPatito

fiestamericanatravelty.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r

CERVEZA CEIBA

BACAB

PEREGRINA BISTRO

cervezaceiba.com

bacab.com

IG: hyattregencymerida (No Bronze)

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FROM TOP: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT; COURTESY

sanbravo.mx

COURTESY

The Fiesta Americana buffet

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Ro a s t C h i c ke n

POLLO BRUJO

The “Wizard Chicken” looks like a home-grown enterprise, but it’s bigger than as it seems. It has 10 locations as far away as Costa Rica. But it’s a family tradition in Yucatán. pollobrujo.com

S i l ve r POLLO FELIZ pollogrillmx.com (No Bronze)

Outdoor Dining

PICHETA / PLAZA GRANDE

A lot of restaurants with a view like this would rest on their haunches, but not Picheta. Diners agree. picheta.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e LA TERRAZA / EL REMATE elrematedemontejo.mx/laterraza

APOALA / PARQUE STA. LUCIA apoala.mx

COURTESY

Picheta’s roof terrace has unmatched views of the Cathedral and Plaza Grande.

PATRICIA ROBERT

Fo o d S t a l l / T r u c k

LA LUPITA / MERCADO SANTIAGO

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

As seen on Netflix and other media, La Lupita has expanded and today is considered a legend for authentic flavors. Plus, cochinita and lechon just tastes better in an open-air market.

+52 999-181-5232

IG: @taquerialalupitacom

NEGRO GIL / MERCADO SANTA ANA

TAQUERÍA DON BETO / PARQUE DE LAS AMERÍCAS FB: @TortasParquedelasAmericas

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SORBETERÍA EL COLÓN

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

A Yucatán tradition since 1907. Families and couples fill the sidewalk tables for frozen treats from sapote, mamey, and tamarind. Be sure to tip the musician.

KOREAN GRILL & ICE CREAM

POLA GELATO SHOP

elcolon.mx

FB: @koreangrillandicecream

polagelato.com

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PATRICIA ROBERT

Ice Cream or Gelato

D rag Show

DIX BAR

Drag has a long, storied history in Mérida, but when Dix opened, it felt like a new era for the art form —and for this largely conservative city. And about that name ...

IG: @dixbar.merida

S i l ve r BERNADETTE SHOWBAR

Special Mention

A relative newcomer off the hotel zone appeared to be packing in patrons almost immediately.

EL GRAN SANTIAGO

A place worth mentioning opened after the survey. Beer, botanas and

IG: @bernardette.showbar

@El-Gran-SantiagoRestaurant-Bar

Dix Bar has shaken up the Centro.

TOP: FACEBOOK / MIA LEGRIA; BOTTOM: COURTESY

Wi n e / S p i r i t s S o u r c e

COSTCO

We were surprised to see a big box store edge out No. 2 La Europea by just 3.4 points. Or maybe we shouldn’t be. They do seem to be the place for everything. www.costco.com.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e LA EUROPEA CITY CENTER laeuropea.com.mx

There’s no shame in serving Kirkland.

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LA BOTILLERÍA IG: @labotilleria.mx

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e

DAVID SERRANO

The Mexicali-born surrealist lived for decades in Los Angeles before moving to Mérida in 2014. His work is often on view at La Cúpula.

ALFREDO ROMERO

It’s no facade. The man who peels, preserves and repurposes Mérida’s iconic street graphics — from soda logos to graffiti art — has only grown in worldwide acclaim. @alfredoromerocampos

Favo r i t e L i v i n g A r t i s t s

ROSY PERAZA RIOS

Rosy was among our 2022 Women of Yucatán for her “colorful tropical flowers, parrots, mot-mot birds, dieffenbachia, ferns, and swaying palms. Flirtatious females and loving mamas are two more of the artist’s favorite themes.” Today, her disarming art is in more demand than ever.

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CONTRIBUTED (2); BOTTOM RIGHT: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

@davidserranoarte

SoHo Galleries hosts a public art event on the street.

LEE STEELE / ARCHIVE

Art Gallery

SOHO GALLERIES

This cultural hub founded in 2008 by charismatic New Yorker Adele Aguirre, SoHo Galleries features fine contemporary international art, with art receptions not to be missed. sohogalleriesmx.com

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e LA SALA

GALERIA URBANA

lasalaart.com

galeriaurbanamerida.com

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Artisan Shop

Turn right as you enter the lobby of Hotel Casa San Angel on the Remate. Fine ceramics, carvings, textiles and jewelry — all by Mexican artisans. We hate parting with the gifts we buy there. hotelcasasanangel.com 68

S i l ve r & B r o n z e HERENCIA VIVA

ARTESANARIA

FB: @herenciavivayucatan

IG: @artesanaria

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LEE STEELE

100% MÉXICO HECHO A MANO

P l a c e f o r L i ve M u s i c

DZALBAY CANTINA

A groovy and intimate club with live jazz and blues daily. Lots of good bites on the menu. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace. dzalbaycantina.com

L i ve M u s i c Ac t

TIE: GINA ORSONO & THE DREAMERS and SWINGA TU MADRE A night out is always a little better with Gina Orsono’s velvety voice and a jolt of “Gypsy” energy from the jazz quartet Swinga Tu Madre. Search yucatanmagazine.com for features on both.

S i l ve r & B r o n z e HENNESSY’S IRISH PUB

Gina: FB @dreamers.swing Swinga: FB @swingatumadre

LIZARD JOE’S YUCATEXA

S i l ve r

lizardjoes.com

JAZZ SENSITIVE

COURTESY

FB: @hirishpub

FB: @jazzsensitive

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Luxury Boutique Hotel

CASA LECANDA

A boutique hotel that was made for Instagram before there was Instagram. And built before small hotels at this level of luxury was a proven business model. More than a decade later, Casa Lecanda remains a stunner. casalecanda.com

Ana Méndez Lecanda

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e ROSAS & XOCOLATE

Rosas & Xocolate

rosasandxocolate.com

THE DIPLOMAT BOUTIQUE HOTEL

LACONDA & ROSAS: PATRICIA ROBERT; DIPLOMAT: COURTESY

thediplomatmerida.com

The Diplomat

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Ana Eugenia Méndez Petterson runs the Yucatán’s museums, including the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya.

GRAN MUSEO DEL MUNDO MAYA

Since 2012, the Gran Museo has housed a permanent collection of more than 1,100 remarkably wellpreserved artifacts, including a reclining chac-mool and an Ek’ Balam sculpture complete with skull belt and reptile headdress. Visitors are advised to pace themselves. @granmuseomaya 72

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PATRICIA ROBERT

Mu seum

MACAY

S i l ve r & B r o n z e MUSEO DE ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO ATENEO DE YUCATÁN —MACAY macay.org

MUSEO REGIONAL DE ANTROPOLOGÍA, PALACIO CANTÓN

ADOBE STOCK

IG: @mpalaciocanton

Palacio Cantón

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P u b l i c Pa r k

GRAN PARQUE LA PLANCHA

This contemporary new “central park” is stunning to see when approaching Calle 43 and suddenly finding ourselves among artificial but graceful ponds and elegant elevated walkways.

Judging from all the people we see, it’s a hit with the public. parquelaplancha.com

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S i l ve r & B r o n z e CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

PARQUE LAS AMERICAS Av. Colón x 20 y 23, García Ginerés

PLAZA GRANDE Calle 60 x 61 y 63, Centro

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Place to Bring House Guests

CENOTES

For all of Yucatán’s ancient ruins, historic haciendas, and majestic museums, readers saw the most impact from our natural beauty — those subterranean sinkholes we call cenotes. Everyone dive in.

S i l ve r & B r o n z e ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

ADOBE STOCK; OPPOSITE: CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

PASEO DE MONTEJO

Cenote Suytun

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W h e r e t o Ta ke t h e K i d s

MUSEO DEL METEORITO

The right museum at the right place. The dinosaur museum offers a journey through Earth’s history, and happens to sit at the epicenter of a meteorite’s impact 66 million years ago, which led to the extinction of dinosaurs. We still talk about that crater today. Proof: Just Google “Chixculub” to find a cool animated Easter egg along with the search results. culturyucatan.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e EL GRAN MUSEO DEL MUNDO MAYA granmuseodelmundomaya.com.mx

XTREME JUMPING TRAMPOLINE PARK xtremejumping.com/merida

The Museo del Meteorito in Progreso is directly on the beach about seven blocks east of the pier.

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Re a l E s t a t e A g e n c y

I n d i v i d u a l Re a l E s t a t e A ge n t

MERIDA LIVING

CRISTINA SOSA

meridalivingrealestate.com

Merida Living: cristinasosarealestate@gmail.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

MEXICO INTERNATIONAL

CARLOS BETANCOURT

mexintl.com

Merida Living: cbm893@hotmail.com

YUCATÁN BEACH & CITY

NICHOLAS SANDERS

yucatanbeachandcityproperties.com

Yucatán Beach & City: nicholassandersyucatan@gmail.com

Fu r n i t u r e S t o r e

CALLEVEINTE

It’s hard to just browse without impuslse shopping at this contemporary furniture store in San Ramón Norte, but our readers agree that this showroom is one of the city’s finest. www.calleviente.com.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e ACTUAL

GAIA

actualhome.com

gaiadesign.com.mx Una clase en sesión en La Casita.

Fa s h i o n B o u t i q u e

Spanish Classes

We don’t have to go to Tulum for their sumptuous, boho chic linen shirts, pants and dresses. This clothing store’s in-house designs intersects “hippie” and “glam” in a unique way. artesanotulum.com

lacasitamerida.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e B&G ATELIER

MARCELO CHIC

IG: @bygatelier

marcelochic.com

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LA CASITA

The brother-sister team leading this inviting, lively language school put newcomers at ease on their road to Spanish fluency. ¡Gracias profesores! Queer Destinations partner.

S i l ve r & B r o n z e HOLA

HABLA

hola-school.com

habla.org

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BOTH PAGES: COURTESY

ARTE SANO

Architect

CENTRO ARCHITECTS After more than a decade, Fernando Abreu still concentrates on Mérida homes.

Clients comment on his creativity, practicality and communication skills. centroarchitects.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e HENRY PONCE henryponce.com

CERVERA SANCHEZ ARQUITECTOS cerverasanchez.com

Contractor / Builder

CENTRO ARCHITECTS Reviewers commented on Centro’s attention to detail, including immediate followup visits from a supervisor to check work and ensure the area is swept. centroarchitects.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e DON FIXER IG: @donfixer_MID

CERVERA SANCHEZ ARQUITECTOS

Centro’s Fernando Abreu

cerverasanchez.com

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Kitchen / Bath Source

LOUIS NAVARRETE

HAUS DESIGN CENTER

This Parsons-trained ballet dancer-turned-designer has created houses for himself and his partner and is always happy to advise friends who might need another set of eyes.

Back when Mabe and GE ruled the scene, designers, architects, and developers tapped Haus for exotic, high-end kitchen and bath brands that were otherwise impossible to find in Yucatán.

IG: @louisnavarretedecoration

hausdesigncenter.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

HENRY PONCE

SHAWN EBRAHIMI

henryponce.com

shawnebrahimi.com

ZARA HOME

AMMEX DESIGN STORE

zarahome.com/mx

IG: @ammexkitchenandappliances

Louis Navarrete

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CONTRIBUTED

Interior Designer

Hospital Faro del Mayab

Hospital

FARO DEL MAYAB

L aw F i r m

EASY LEGAL MÉXICO

This bilingual law firm specializes in helping bewildered expats, and their growth has been spectacular over the past decade. easylegalmexico.com

BALLOTE & ASSOCIATES CONTRIBUTED

christusmuguerza.com.mx/hospital-faro-del-mayab

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

balloteandassociates.com

clinicademerida.mx

starmedica.com

yucatanattorneys.com

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CLINICA DE MÉRIDA

STAR MÉDICA

YUCATÁN ATTORNEYS

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Although it looks like a luxury hotel, Christus Muguerza Hospital Faro del Mayab is a cutting-edge private facility north of the city with 55 beds, including six master suites, 16 intensive care areas (seven neonatal and three pediatric); five central operating rooms, two obstetric rooms, two endoscopy rooms, as well as an imaging area. Also a magnet for medical tourism, Faro has made a big impression on our readers.

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Yo ga S t u d i o

CENTRO CULTURAL LA CÚPULA / SUSAN CHANDRA A bilingual class in a comfortable, serene space on the beautiful La Cúpula campus.

Bolsters, blocks and belts are provided to enrich the practice for all levels. lacupulamerida.org/taller-de-yoga

S i l ve r & B r o n z e YOGA ESTUDIO MÉRIDA laeuropea.com.mx

ALMA DURAN yoga-con-alma.org

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Fitness Studio / Gym

BANGIN’ BODY FITNESS, DANCE AND YOGA STUDIO With her all-in-one workout room, dance floor and content studio, JJ Johnson has got Mérida moving.

And considering her online following, the rest of the world is moving along with her, too. banginbodyonline.com

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT; OPPOSITE: PATRICIA ROBERT

SMART FIT smartfit.com.mx

THUNDER GYM

Pe r s o n a l T r a i n e r

Av. Itzaes x 49 y 51 Centro

JENNIFER ‘JJ’ JOHNSON banginbodyonline.com

S i l ve r JEFF SHAW longevity360.life JJ Johnson was featured in our Wellness Issue. Here is an uttake from our cover shoot taken in spring 2023.

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M a s s a ge a t H o m e

KEITH FREMON WELLNESS

An SEP-certified chiropractor and massage therapist who is registered with the Mexican Association of Sports Therapy, Keith also provides neural therapy and pain management.

IG: @wellness.and.company

Kate Miasik

Hair Salon

KATE MIASIK

Behind this expanding salon, a once pretty courtyard has the beginnings of a more dramatic facility. Clientele is mostly women, but men — and English-speakers — will be at ease.

Keith Fremon

IG: @katemiasikhair

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

robertabudasalon.com

TIE: LA POP STYLE & GAVÁ STUDIO

DIANA WOODS

ADÁN CETINA

IG: @lapopstyle IG: @gavastudio_

FB: @woods.mx

FB: @AdanCauich

Barbershop

Dermatologist

PEPE H

TERSANA

This friendly medical spa is run by a licensed dermatologist with a full range of treatments and technologies.

A place for regular guys who want to feel like gentlemen, if not like a prince or a king. Pepe H gets a good mix of local and international clintele. See story starting on Page 23.

IG: @tersana.dermaceron

IG: @pepehbarberia

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

SKIN AND HEALTH CENTER

NUO HAIR AND SKIN CLINIC

FIGARO BARBER SHOP

HOVEL BARBER & RELAX

IG: @skinandhealthcentermid

IG: @nuohairskinclinic

IG: @figaromerida

IG: @hovelmex

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CONTRIBUTED

ROBERT ABUDA

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

Day Spa

BOHO SPA CENTER

A TripAdvisor winner with three locations in Mérida, BoHo focuses on relaxation and attention to detail. bohospa.com.mx/en

PATRICIA ROBERT

S i l ve r & B r o n z e TAI SPA

BLEU SPA

thethaispa.mx

IG: @bleuspa

Dentist

Physician

CONFORT DENTAL

DR. JOSÉ ANTONIO AZCORRA

From oral surgery to whitening, Dr. Alfa Oliver Willis — who is from Illinois and introduced herself to us at an expat coffee meetup — makes it as painless as possible, in many ways.

A comfort for patients from the United States and Canada, Dr. Azcorra speaks English and makes housecalls. He also gets high marks for his excellent bedside manner.

FB: @confortdentalmerida

IG: @Movi.MED

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

DENTALIA ALTABRISA

QUALITY DENTAL

DR. EDUARDO MENA

DR EDGAR SEGURA

dentalia.com

qualitydental.mx

doctoralia.com.mx

FB: @edgarseguramedical

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Animal Clinic

D o g Pa r k

PLANETA ANIMAL

Dr. Julio Basulto Poot has been expanding his bilingual clinic to meet the needs of an increasingy pet-centric Centro. He’s friendly and even put our office’s semi-feral ginger tabby cat under control when it was time for his leukemia vaccine. planetaanimalenmerida.com

ZOO HABITAT zoohabitat.com

P l a c e t o B o a r d Yo u r Pe t

PET CHALET

FB: @parquedelaaleman

PARQUE MONTES DE AMÉ Calle 30, Montes de Amé, Mérida

Pe t G r o o m i n g

HUMANIMALS

Reviewers praised the facility’s helpful and caring staff, cleanliness, spacious setting and relaxed atmosphere. Both dogs and cats are sheltered, among other animals.

They don’t just bathe your mascotas, but veterinary services are also available. Critics gave high marks for beautiful facilities and professional attention.

FB: @PetChaletMerida

humanimals.mx

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

S i l ve r & B r o n z e

HOTEL CANINO ARCOS hotelcaninoarcos.mx

THE BARK HOUSE

DOLCE & HAVANA LUXURY PET SPA

FB: @thebarkhousemerida

FB: @dolceandhavana

ESTÉTICA CANINA HAPPY TAILS esteticascaninas.info/merida

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AFRICA-STUDIO.COM (OLGA YASTREMSKA AND LEONID YASTREMSKIY)

IG: @plannedpethoodmexico

S i l ve r & B r o n z e PARQUE DE LA ALEMÁN

S i l ve r & B r o n z e PLANNED PETHOOD

GRAN PARQUE LA PLANCHA

Behind the (not pet-friendly) mercado is the city’s newest zona de perros with areas set aside for big and little dogs. It may be noisy for some dogs when the neighboring skate park is busy.

OFF-THE-GRID ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES Our 3 favorite crowd-free ancient ruins TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

Chacmultún

Chacmultún

Yaxunah

Kulubá

Chacmultún means “mounds of red stone” and the moniker’s origin comes from the reddish tone of the soil and many of the stones used in the city’s construction. Many of Chacmultún’s most imposing structures were built atop hills 78 miles south of Mérida. While this practice is common in other regions of Mesoamerica, it is rare in the mostly flat Yucatán.

Fewer than 20 miles south of Chichén Itzá lies Yaxunah, one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in the Maya lowlands. With enormous temples, gorgeous carved stonework, elite residential areas, and a Mesoamerican ballcourt, this splendid site has plenty to keep you busy all day. As if that were not enough, it is in one of the best regions of the state for birdwatching.

With strong ties to some of the Peninsula’s most potent city-states, Kulubá once ruled the region with an iron fist. One of two main sections is easy to miss if the detour leading to it is not pointed out. Several structures have been restored, and while Kulubá is not officially open to visitors, at end of the road look for Don Willy, who might, for a tip, let you in and give a tour.

Yaxunah

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A Toh sits regally on a high branch surveying his kingdom.

EL PÁJARO TOH, YUCATÁN’S MOST BELOVED AVIAN FRIEND TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARLOS ROSADO VAN DER GRACHT

B

EAUTIFUL TROPICAL BIRDS are constantly aflutter in Yucatán, especially during the rainy season. There are common species like social flycatchers, which sport bright yellow chests and black stripes across their eyes, and elegant pink flamingos that grace the coastline.

Then there is the pandemonium of parrots (yes, that’s what they are called) who make themselves heard loudly during mornings and evenings. But be they common or rare, each brings its own special dash of magic to this lush land.

Ask locals which is the most iconic of the native birds of the Yucatán peninsula; there is little doubt that the answer for most would be, “pues claro que el pajaro Toh.” Belonging to the motmot family, the Toh has several features that deliver it a regal status, even though it is pretty standard if you know where and how to look. For this reason, even though keeping caged birds is increasingly unusual, the sight of a caged Toh is particularly offensive.

Near the end of the twin stems of the Toh’s twin tails known as barbs, its plumage ceases, only to burst dramatically in a multicolored tear shape resembling a double pendulum. This, their most identifiable feature, which they swing back and forth, makes spotting the Toh reasonably easy despite its otherwise shy nature.

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According to local legend, the bald spot on the Toh’s tail resulted from its hubris: One day, a powerful storm approached, and its inflated ego prevented it from getting to work on building a shelter, opting instead to rise high in the foliage above all other birds. After the storm, the Toh emerged, and all other birds began to mock it, chirping, “Your precious tail, it is ruined!” But given its proud nature, the Toh shrugged off the mockery, swinging its tail back and forth in a way that even the Macaws and Toucans had to admit bashfully was magnificent.

The emerald and blue-browed Toh are among the most common in the region and can be spotted in large numbers near bodies of water. But this does not mean you must leave the city to catch a glimpse. If you keep your eyes peeled, they can be observed in city parks like Ya’axal in the west of Mérida or Chen Hó more to the east.

Despite being fairly common, spotting a Toh rarely goes unremarked. My wife and I often brag about how many of these elegant birds we could spot during our evening runs.

You can always take an early morning outing to the outskirts of town or a nearby cenote. If you remain mindful, step lightly, and look up, the Toh will more than likely reveal itself and heed your call. 

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Because Toucans tend to nest high up on treetops they can be tricky to spot.

These enormous and colorful parrots are best spotted in the far south of the Peninsula.

Parrots are often the descendants of birds that escaped from cages during hurricanes.

A Yucatán Jay can be easily spotted because of its bright blue plumage.

A social flycatcher takes flight from atop an ancient sculpted jaguar head in Uxmal.

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Few birds are as easily recognizable as the pink flamingo, which can be spotted just about everywhere from Celestún to El Cuyo.

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MADE BY MEXICAN ARTISANS

C A L L E 19- #201D B 22 Y 24 • G A R C Í A G I N E R É S C .P. 97070 M E R I D A , Y U C

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LAURA KIRAR’S MOROCCO ROOM UNVEILED LUXURY LISTING: A COLONIAL PALACE IN SANTA ANA

ARTIST MONICA REZMAN LETS THE SUN SHINE IN

LUXURY LISTING: COLONIAL PAL ACE

Turning Heads Up, Down and Around TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEIL YOUNGSON

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HIGHLIGHT OF THE most recent Mérida Showcase of Homes was this stunning colonial palace on Calle 66 in the Santa Ana neighborhood.

Now, this soaring, luxurious masterpiece is on the market, turning home buyers’ heads right, left, up and down.

Look down to see the dramatic reflecting pool that lines the mansion’s center hall. That’s a wow factor that will never lose its impact. Look left and right to see a huge living room, formal dining room, bedrooms and chef’s kitchen. Then look up and take a surprise walk through the lush roof gardens.

Take your time to let it all sink in.

The Colonial Palace is sold with nearly everything you see, except for the artwork. That means the long, long dining room table—for throwing dinner parties to show off your new home.

You don’t sacrifice location for this scale and luxury. The Colonial Palace is three blocks from Parque Santa Ana, four and a half blocks from Parque Santa Lucia, and just as many blocks to Hennessy’s Irish Pub and the rest of the Paseo Montejo heading east. In six blocks, you’re at Oliva Enoteca and the Calle 47 foodie corridor.

The architecture includes beamed ceilings, numerous columns and arches, and decorative French pasta-tile floors. It’s finished with custom hardwood shelving, glamorous chandeliers, and thick, solid custom ironwork. A garage to the street has an electric opener. One sizeable room is set up as a gym. Bedrooms have generous walk-in closets.

The cook’s kitchen has marble countertops and a beautiful crema Maya

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backsplash. Outside is an upstairs and downstairs patio, a gourmet outdoor kitchen, a pool for you and a delightful pond for the graceful koi. Lighting inside and outside is tasteful and well thought-out.

So about that roof: Aside from the solar panels, striking gardens with mature plantings, including cacti thriving in the sun, are above. Automatic irrigation keeps them healthy. It’s like your own private park, but with breezes that come from rising above street level.

The Colonial Palace is offered at Mexico International for US$2.2 million. Contact Colm at colmyucatan@gmail.com / 999-1696430 or Mitch at miguelsmexico@ gmail.com.

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Monica Rezman

A Chic a in Mér go artist find id s vision a, where he her ideal oa r brigh sis of a ha tr archite cture, a monious blen white d nd nat ure com of art, es to lif e.

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offering views of the surrounding area. “It was important to me to have my bedroom downstairs,” she noted, reflecting on the practical considerations that shaped her choices.

Living in Mérida has brought Monica a sense of community that she values. The neighborhood of San Cristóbal, where she resides, has become increasingly popular, with friends from the US even moving into the area. “My friends from Chicago just bought the building across the street,” she says, appreciating the connections in her new environment.

Despite the challenges of building a home from scratch, Monica is pleased with the outcome.

“I don’t have a lot of money, but I’m willing to pay an architect. This is what you live in,” she reflects, highlighting the importance of investing in a space that reflects her vision and suits her needs. monicarezman.com arquitecturacontextual.com TEXT BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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RTIST MONICA REZMAN’S transition to Mérida was prompted by the growing challenges of maintaining her Chicago home while frequently traveling. “I went back to put my house on the market because I’m just going back too much to take care of it,” she explains.

In 2018, after an extensive search, Monica found a property in Mérida that seemed perfect for her next chapter. She enlisted the help of TACO architect Carlos Patrón and his cousin Alex, as contractor, to design and build her new home. Monica had a clear vision: “I wanted tall ceilings, a big open room, and a connection to the outdoors,” she shares. This vision — encased in white surfaces and flooded in light —was well-suited to the warm, tropical climate of Mérida.

Where she lives is all-new construction, set behind a minimally touched colonial home, which contains her art studio. The new home’s floor plan was configured to maximize the space and the lot’s favorable dimensions.

“I bought this land because it’s 12 meters wide. I want to feel that space,” she says. The resulting design features dramatic high ceilings and an open layout that connects the interior with the outdoor environment.

One of Monica’s home’s most distinctive features is how it integrates nature into the living space. Plants grow directly from the floor in la sala, a unique element that brings the lushness of Mérida’s outdoors inside. “I’m just sort of throwing things in and seeing how they work,” she admitted as she continues to experiment with different trees and plants to enhance the greenery.

Monica’s bedroom is on the ground floor and opens onto a peaceful garden, offering a quiet retreat. The guest rooms are upstairs, providing privacy while

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Laura Kirar INTERVIEW BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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In her own words, the co-owner of Hacienda Subin dissects the details of her newly finished Morocco Room

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HEN I BEGAN restoring our 300-year-old home in the Yucatán, I faced the challenge of honoring its history while incorporating my design sensibilities. Hacienda Subin is a tapestry of different eras, with a Moorish-style front, a 19th-century French-inspired back, and the oldest part, the Morocco room, which became the focal point of my restoration.

I aimed to highlight the Moorish elements while integrating them with the house’s other influences.

One of the key design decisions was inspired by a mosaic floor in a riad in Fez, which I reinterpreted using local pasta tiles. This room, which originally had no bathroom, now features two pavilions—one for a shower and another for a water closet—each designed with a fusion of Moroccan, Indian, Asian, and Mexican influences. The murals, featuring dragonflies inspired by those on our property, add a playful, colorful touch that feels inherently Mexican.

Living in the Yucatán has deeply influenced my work, and this project reflects my philosophy of creating spaces that communicate across time and cultures. I strive to respect its history while adding new layers, blending traditional elements with contemporary art and minimal furniture — maintaining the integrity of the original

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architecture while infusing it with fresh, diverse influences. This hacienda is a constant work in progress.

Full interview at yucatanmagazine.com.

Visit haciendasubin.com and laurakirar.com

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CASA

5 Things Airbnb Experts Removed From Their Short-Term Rental Properties MANOLO LAGO

 Previously, we asked people running income-properties about essentials to include in a rental home. Now, we’re learning what not to offer in short-term vacation rentals. Here’s what they have removed and why:

here? They are difficult to clean and trap dirt, allergens, and even small objects. They are also a tripping hazard.

Instead, choose low-pile, washable rugs that are easy to maintain and spot-clean.

1. PERSONAL BELONGINGS: While some personality is great, guests should feel at home, not like they’re intruding. Replace family photos with meaningful decor or artwork that reflects your style without being overly personal.

4. SLEEPER SOFAS AND AIR MATTRESSES: These options are often uncomfortable and unreliable, leading to guest complaints and poor reviews.

Consider alternative solutions like daybeds with comfortable mattresses or simply limit occupancy if space is limited.

2. PUZZLES AND GAMES WITH MANY PIECES: While entertainment is appreciated, puzzles pieces can frustrate guests and cleaners alike.

Opt for simple card games in clear plastic boxes for easy storage.

3. HIGH-PILE THROW RUGS: Can you believe these even exist around

5. PHYSICAL KEYS: Losing keys is a hassle for everyone involved. Switch to keyless entry systems for easy access for guests, cleaners, and yourself. Keep a backup lockbox with a full set of keys in case of emergencies.

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Marketplace

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Your boutique hotel getaway in Mérida.

REL AX | EX PLORE | IMME RSE

Come home to El Pueblo, where every stay is a warm embrace of hospitality.

CALLE 56 439, PARQUE SANTA LUCÍA, CENTRO meridaboutiquehotel.com

STUDIO VISIT

Samantha Michell: Memory and Movement INTERVIEW BY LEE STEELE | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRICIA ROBERT

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ORN IN CHICAGO to a Colombian mother and a Mexican father, Samantha Michell’s early years were marked by a transitory lifestyle, spending time between the United States and Mexico. However, her heart has always been firmly rooted in Mérida.

“I spent 18 years living here, going back and forth,” she recalls.

“I’ve technically been here more than in the States.” This duality of identity and experience, living between cultures, profoundly influences her art, which explores themes of memory, nostalgia, and the body as a vessel of those experiences.

Samantha’s artistic journey took her from the streets of New York, where she studied at the School

of Visual Arts, to the serene and culturally rich city of Mérida. She reflects on her time in New York with fondness, describing the city as a place of endless possibilities, where her young mind was nourished by the arts and the vibrant culture surrounding her. “The city was just alive with possibilities.

Now, I feel like a little bit of that is lost,” she laments, noting the city’s transformation over the years.

Her work is a testament to her process, which she describes as being as important as the finished piece itself.

“Process is everything,” she says as we survey her studio in a privada north of Mérida. “The smaller works are studies—understanding the materials, the colors, and how they interact.” Samantha

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“IN JAPAN, SEEING THE DELICATE TECHNIQUES OF WATERCOLORS AND CHARCOALS BROUGHT MY WORK TO A NEW LEVEL.”

works across various mediums, from oil to acrylic, charcoal, and mixed media, each chosen carefully to convey the emotions and memories she seeks to express.

A recent residency in Tokyo has deeply influenced her latest series, which is inspired by Japanese bathhouses. “It changed everything for me,” she shares. “I’ve been exploring the body as a way to convey memories. In Japan, seeing the delicate techniques of watercolors and charcoals brought my work to a new level.” Her current palette, dominated by serene blues and vibrant greens, is a direct result of the impressions left on her by Japan’s summer colors and the lush, verdant

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landscapes she encountered there.

Despite her global experiences, Mérida remains the anchor in Samantha’s life and work. The city’s growing art community fuels her creativity and provides a sense of belonging.

“The art community here is growing. More artists are setting up studios and shipping their work internationally,” she notes. Yet, she acknowledges her need for solitude in her creative process. “I’m a hermit,” she says in a very matter-offact manner. “My work is all about memory and revisiting experiences, which requires a lot of introspection.”

Looking ahead, Samantha is clearly excited about bridging a cultural gap, bringing Japanese artists

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to Mérida and possibly creating a residency exchange.

“I had such a beautiful experience in Japan. I want to share that with others here,” she says, her eyes lighting up with the possibilities.

This initiative reflects her belief in the power of artistic collaboration and cross-cultural exchange, something she feels Mérida is ripe for.

Samantha Michell’s story is one of constant movement—between places, cultures, and ideas. Through her art, she captures the fluidity of memory, the vibrancy of life, and the beauty of the body in motion, inviting us all to step into her world, where memory and emotion dance together on the canvas. 

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EXCLUSIVE LISTING

EXCLUSIVE LISTING

$2,350,000 USD

$589,000 USD

Mérida Mansion

Casa Colores Santiago

Property Code 3052

» 5 Beds / 6 Baths » 1770 M2 Lot » 765 M2 of Construction » Off-Street Covered Parking

» A/C Units » Renovated » Pool Cabana » Lush Vegetation

Property Code 1092

» Fully Furnished » Five-Minute Stroll to Plaza Grande Ceilings with Original Iron » 16-foot Beams

» Well-Preserved Antique Floors » Original Archways and Doors » Chef’s Kitchen » Large 2-Car Garage

EXCLUSIVE LISTING

EXCLUSIVE LISTING

$1,550,000 USD

$395,000 USD

Oceanfront Luxury Home

Beachfront Condo Chelem

Property Code 7022

» 4 Bedrooms with Guest Casita » 5 Bathrooms » 550 M2 Construction » 2,658 M2 Lot

» 25 Meters of Beach Frontage » 110 Meters of Depth » Solar Panels » Furnished

Property Code 7113

» Some Furniture Included » 2 Beds /2 Baths Income Property » Perfect or Permanent Home

» Open-Concept Living Garage » One-Car with Electric Door Opener » Swimming Pool in Common Area

www.yucatanlotsandhomes.com WhatsApp / cell +52-999-947-2559 U.S./Canada 1-214-256-3876

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yury@yucatanhomesandlots.com

More listings online

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Yury Di Pasquale, founder

YUCATÁN MAGAZINE

Colonial Palace us$2,200,000 # 6396 S E E MOR E p 90-93