08-Liguria
November 2013-NEW.qxd
25/10/2013
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LIGURIA
www.rivieratimes.com
FOR LIGURIA NEWS
NOVEMBER 2013
The Cucina Bianca experience
OliOliva A celebration of all things olive
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s the name suggests, the Imperia OliOliva festival is dedicated to the wealth of products derived from the ancient olive trees of the region. Every November, the historic town centre of Oneglia becomes the world's olive capital as its streets, porticoes and squares fill with
A delicious stroll through the history, culture and tastes of Imperia
stalls from the neighbouring towns and villages. From the fruits themselves to oils, tapenades, bathroom products, medicines and items delicately crafted from the branches of the trees, between 15th and 17th
November, visitors to the popular festival can indulge in all things olive. Perfect excuse to visit The event is the perfect chance to blend gastronomic pleasure with culture and heritage. While much of the action takes place in Imperia, festival goers can also enjoy a bounty of other activities in outlying areas, such as wine and food tastings, visits to farms, groves, mills, and also to important sites and monuments of Liguria's past. Imperia a focal point Olives are of course a quintessential figure in the history and culture of the Mediterranean, but nowhere more so than in Imperia. The city was the birthplace of the now international National Organisation of Olive Oil Tasters and the largest employer is the well-reputed olive oil company, Olio Carli. The region's philosophy of healthy eating and wellbeing has been built up around its connection with the typical fruit. Now in its 13th year, the festival is a highlight in the social, business and gourmet calendars of Liguria. EC
Below ground An earthquake strikes Val Maïra
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awn hadn't yet broken over the mountains of Liguria when residents felt a rumbling beneath their beds on 15th October. The commune of Castelmagno in the Val Maïra region was the closest to the epicentre of the quake, but the 5am tremors were enough to disturb the sleep of people as far away as Nice and in the Haute Alpes. Scientists from the French Central Bureau for Seismology (BCSF) estimate that the earthquake's epicentre was at
a depth of around 16 kilometres. It sent ripples of energy across the alpine region and beyond the Franco-Italian border, with the most predominant witness reports coming from towns north of the epicentre. Reaching around four on the Richter scale, the terremoto was almost a mirror image of a quake that struck the same place just one year ago. No damage to property, livestock or human life were reported following the event.
What it lacks in colour, the cuisine makes up for in taste
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or centuries, the people of the upper Arroscia Valley have handed down from generation to generation the recipes of the region's traditional cucina bianca - white cuisine. Now, several communities in the area are getting behind the ancient cooking style as they try to transform it into a tourist attraction. It was the shepherds of the Ligurian Alps who made the cuisine out of necessity, using only the basic products they had at their disposal. The fleeting nature of much of the ingredients was replicated in the annual exchange of items between what seemed like distant pastures at the time. For the people of the Arroscia Valley, Cuneo, Piedmont and Tende in southern France, their life was that of a peasant economy. Among the typical products that allowed this mountain style of cuisine to flourish were flour, potato, cabbage, leek, garlic, root vegetables, and of course dairy. The dishes were prepared in meager shelters and without the use of more colourful ingredients like tomatoes, which only became part of the diet in the mid 19th century despite their popularity on the coast, and basil. Cheese of all kinds played a vital part in their culinary feats, but especially the aromatic brusso and naturally fermented ricotta. To preserve and promote these age-old traditions and its distinctive ingredients, the
Strada della Cucina Bianca - Civiltà delle Malghe route through the Monte Saccarello area on the Franco-Italian border was launched. It crisscrosses through Liguria, the Cosio d'Arroscia, Mendatica, Montegrosso Pian Latte, Pornassio and Triora communities before meeting La Brigue in the Alpes Maritimes and Briga Alta in the province of Cuneo. Mendatica, for example, celebrates the popular Festa della Cucina Bianca festival each August and the entire village dedicates itself to the specialities and produce of the pastureland. Long-established families in the hills prepare pan fritù, streppa caccia e là, turle, turta de patate and frittelle di mele among other dishes. The only genuinely authentic restaurant we could find that serves the white cuisine, created with the original methods, is the Agriturismo Cioi Longhi in Montegrosso Pian Latte, not far from Mendatica. For just 22 euros, choose from eight antipastis, two first and two second courses, two desserts, wine, true Italian caffè and homemade liqueurs. There are also delicious jams prepared on site from pears, apples, cinnamon and pine nuts available to take away. But you too can be creative. Below find two simple recipes that reflect the cucina bianca traditions and are quick and easy to prepare. Petra Hall Elsa Carpenter
Arroscia Valley’s traditional alpine style of cuisine is bursting with flavour despite being a more blanched take on authentic Italian cooking
Turle
Turta de patate
Serves four
Serves four
Dough 160g flour One egg Water as needed
Filling 300g potatoes 100g very soft cheese (ricotta or toma) 50g freshly grated Parmesan Two egg yolks Mint leaves
Preparation Cook unpeeled potatoes then peel and set to one side. Once cooled, mix with egg yolks, cheese and coarsely chopped mint leaves. Blend together to make a smooth paste. Make a stretchy dough from the flour, egg and water, then rolling out into thin pasta sheets. Cut with large ravioli cutter. Add a little filling and press both sides together firmly. Bring salted water to the boil and cook for a few minutes. Drain and fry briefly with butter and minute. Serve hot with a sprinkling on Parmesan.
Dough 200g flour Two tablespoons of olive oil A pinch of salt Water as needed
Filling 800g potatoes Two leeks 200ml cream 100g freshly grated Parmesan and Pecorino Olive oil, salt, pepper and milk as needed
Preparation Make a smooth dough and allow to rest for several minutes before dividing into two pieces and rolling it out thinly. Peel the potatoes and cook until tender. Sauté the finely chopped leeks in oil and allow to cool. Blend all of the filling ingredients together and season. Cover an oiled baking dish with a layer of the dough and fill before covering with a second layer of dough. Braid the edges of the pie with any remaining dough and pierce the surface with a fork. Brush the surface with oil and milk before placing in a preheated over for 45 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius.