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The English-language newspaper for the French - Italian Riviera & Monaco since 2002 Issue 140 - November 2013 2.50e


Monte Carlo Jazz Next generation

E urope is shaking up its road traffic rules, meaning that drivers who overstep the mark will face legal sanctions even if they are not on their home turf. From 7th November, authorities will be able to chase up rule breakers and hand out fines or even more serious punishments regardless of where the vehicle is registered. The European Transport Safety Council (ETSC) has made it clear that it won't tolerate foreign drivers’ ignorance of laws in a different country and its warning those likely to get behind a wheel in another land to clue up on its legislation before hitting the pedal. According to the European Commission, around 100 million cross-border trips are made on European roads each year and in France, an estimated 25 per cent of all speeding infractions are committed by drivers with foreign number plates. If the new law is fully applied, it has been reported that the scheme could rake in 100 million euros for French coffers alone. The reshuffling of Europe's traffic system brings together some 47 national and international organisations and represents a continent-wide attempt to tackle the safety standards on its roads. Most of the continent has signed up to the European Directive, but there are nevertheless some notable absences. Continued on page 6


Colour, style and materials Interior design


A slice of heaven Dig into a gourmet month of global proportions

Les Fromages de Suisse/Konny Strauss

Pedal to metal

David Rodriguez Caballero Tricks of light

Chic hors d'oeuvres on the coast to mouthwatering menus in mountains, there is a plate and date for every foodie this month


ine dining, cosy meals with friends, straight talking business lunches and specialised food shows will all find their place on the Riviera over the next few weeks. Out to the east, Imperia celebrates its age-old connection with the region's olive groves while further inland, residents in the mountains of Liguria serve up the timehonoured dishes of cucina bianca (page 8). On French soil, fairs in Cagnes sur Mer and Mandelieu display local

produce, fresh from the fields and pastures of Provence, as well as embarking on a gourmet Tour de France with exhibitors from across the country (page 14). Monaco too leaves its sophisticated, haute cuisine mark on the tongues of those eager to experience the exquisite delights of the Principality in its annual food event at the end of November (page 15). It's not all about the Mediterranean however, as Danish delicacies arrive from the north for a weekend-long

Christmas market (page 13) and a bounty of alpine Swiss cheeses descend on the bars and bistros of Nice for three weeks of urban tasting sessions (page 15). Sweet or savoury, in a glass or on a plate, whatever your palette preferences are, there is an event for everyone from an amateur foodie to the professional connoisseur. But if wandering through the stalls and stands of the many food festivals and events leaves you wanting more, The Riviera Times can also

recommend a couple of places to indulge the senses in a comfy seat instead of on two feet. Discover whether or not Cocoon, Cannes' most popular cafĂŠ-cum-restaurant according to online reviewers, lives up to its reputation as a reliable address with authentic homecooking and honest prices, as well as finding out about the latest culinary concept to come out of the kitchens at the Marriott's AC Hotel in Nice; the business lunch (page 16). EC

Also in this edition: Elections The Riviera Times’ political commentator Julian Nundy explains how to sign up for the imminent European and municipal elections.

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Inside this edition:


NEWS News in brief ................................................................................ Political column .......................................................................... Automotive special ....................................................................

4 5 6

COTE & PROVENCE Valberg’s solar trail: outdoor pursuits ...................................


LIGURIA The Cucina Bianca experience ................................................


MONACO The launch of the e-Prix ............................................................ An interview with David Rodriguez Caballero .................... All change on Port Hercule ...................................................... Monaco Yacht Show photo gallery ........................................

9 10 11 12

ART & CULTURE Indulge in a Danish Noël .........................................................


GOURMET Your taste buds are in for a treat this month .....................


RESTAURANT REVIEWS Cannes’ culinary cocoon .......................................................... Perfect timing at AC Hotel Nice .............................................

16 16

INTERIOR DESIGN Winter trends: style, colour, material ..................................... 17

REAL ESTATE Property series: Le Plan de la Tour ........................................


BUSINESS Heart House ................................................................................. 19

EVENTS Comprehensive events calendar ............................................


CLASSIFIED Listing everything from jobs to local businesses ..............


SERVICES Your survival guide to living in France .................................. Subscription forms for home delivery ..................................

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The right to work or rest

am planning a weekend trip further north to the French capital for some festive shopping, having struck gold at a prize give away at the AC Hotel Nice's Garden Party in mid October. With a two night stay in the Marriott's green haven, La Renaissance, I'm looking forward to traipsing the grand avenues and famous store floors. However, being used to the British Sunday opening hours, which are mostly just like any other day, I am anticipating more difficulty in Paris. The right and, indeed, restrictions to work on Sundays have hit headlines in France over the last few weeks, with the courts deciding to impose forced closures on several commercial companies. This surprised me. France is pushing hard to stimulate its economy, but refuses to allow many employers and employees the right to set up shop on the seventh day. While it must be acknowledged that Sunday is the traditional day of rest in many parts of the world, France prides itself on its secular system - the separation of the religion and the state. Thus I am left wondering what the motives are for coming down hard on shop owners (who can be slapped with fines and even prison sentences if found to be operating outside of the six day working week) and their staff who, for the most part, are campaigning for their right to 'travailler le dimanche'. In the aftermath of the imposed closure of two DIY outlets in early October, the Conseil Supérieur de l'Audiovisuel conducted a public survey that revealed eight out of 10 French people support the opening of shops on Sundays. Right-wing and left-wing voters were in agreement, with 92 per cent and 74 per cent respectively advocating shops' right to remain open throughout the week. The State is, for the moment, resolute in its defense of matter and released a statement saying, "The government reminds [the population] that Sunday rest is an essential principle in terms of protecting employees and social cohesion." However, the national prominence of the topic has led to the commissioning of a report into the current legislation. President of La Poste group Jean-Paul Bailly will head up the investigation and is expected to hand in recommendations and proposals for change or restructure at the end of the month. While it may not be in time for Christmas shoppers on French soil, I am personally looking forward to a future Sunday afternoon where I can head to the supermarket safe in the knowledge that when I get there I won't be going home empty handed. On maternity leave: Cassandra Tanti

Elsa Carpenter

The Riviera Times is published monthly and distributed at the following locations: Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport, Toulon-Hyères International Airport, to passengers boarding British Airways flights, on board Delta and Swiss Airlines, and at over 1,000 strategic points of distribution between Marseille and Genoa including international news stands, hotels, banks, golf clubs, schools, car rental agencies, consulates, international associations, and in most international doctors' practices. For subscriptions, please refer to page 23.

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Riviera and Monaco News in Brief animal wellbeing despite recent revelations of malpractice in the industry by campaigner Viva!. Unfazed by the ban, the head of France's Interprofessional Committee of Foie Gras, Marie-Pierre Pé, told AFP, "Economically speaking it's a non-event. It's a bit like if Amazon France decided to stop selling rice or bread pudding online."

Johner/360 Medias

MONACO COMMUTERS face six months of disruption as work on the Monte Carlo railway tunnel begins. With services being cut by a third, from 92 daily trains to just 62, the work is set to seriously disrupt travelling between Monaco, Menton and Ventimiglia on the Italian border. The work will continue until April 2014.

Naomi Campbell, pictured, attended the eminent MIPCOM global entertainment content market in Cannes where she promoted her new modelling show, The Face, in which she stars as a mentor to aspiring models

FOIE GRAS has fallen foul of Amazon UK's sales policies, with the French favourite dish joining the outlawed ranks of whale, dolphin and shark meat, and ivory. The withdrawal of an estimated 100 products from the online retailer's website prompted French Minister for Agriculture Guillaume Garot to criticise the decision, saying that foie gras combines quality with

CHRISTIAN ESTROSI, Nice's outspoken mayor has come first in a study from Augure that ranks French mayors in terms of their digital influence and following. The candid, right-wing politician was found to reach the largest audience, have the biggest interaction with his online followers, and the strongest ability to stimulate discourse, opinions and feedback.

REALITY TELEVISION has a new focus: the south of France. NERD TV is casting for a new reality show shot and set on the French Riviera. Whether you have a story to tell or an extrovert personality, the concept from the awardwinning London-based company will feature people living and working in Monaco and its surroundings areas, depicting the unique style of expat life on the Côte d'Azur. Get in contact with the company for your chance to star. MURDER RATES in the south of France are among the highest in France. While Marseille has long been considered as France's homicide capital, the figures from Le Monde have revealed that the Alpes Maritimes is just as murderous. Corsica came out on top of the scale in metropolitan France, while French Guiana and Guadeloupe reported the highest number of voluntary homicides per inhabitant. SEISMIC TREMORS rippled through the Principality of Monaco in early October as the French Navy discharged a WWII bomb in the waters off the Mediterranean coast, around a kilometre from Cap d’Ail. Ranked at an estimated 2.7 magnitude on the Richter scale, the sub-marine earthquake wasn't strong enough to pose a threat, but was nonetheless felt by people out in the street as well as in their homes. INTERNATIONAL MEDIA has promoted the Riviera as a

favourite destination, proving once again that it is at the top of its game for expats and tourists. The BBC and CNN championed the delights and effortlessly chic lifestyles of both Nice and the Principality of Monaco, complimenting the laid-back style of the Niçois capital of the Côte d'Azur and the heady, designer glamour of Monte Carlo. DRIVING TRAGEDY as the British racing driver and Monaco resident Sean Edwards dies in an accident during a private test session on the Queensland Raceway Willowbank track on 15th October. The son of former world-class driver Guy Edwards is believed to have died instantly when the car veered into the barriers of the racetrack before bursting into flames. The Automobile Club of Monaco, of which Edwards was a member, has paid tribute to the young sportsman. FROGS LEGS are indisputably French, right? Perhaps not, say scientists at an archaeological dig in Wiltshire, where they have unearthed evidence that the early Britons were eating the quintessentially French delicacy thousands of years before their Gallic counterparts. A team of archaeologists in south west England has found the remains of frogs, salmon, wild boar, deer and auroch that date back to 10 millennia ago, suggesting that the now French delicacy was on the menu in Britain long before it reached France. Can the same said for le rosbif?

President of the International Olympic Committee Thomas Bach with Prince Albert II at Sportel’s Golden Podium awards ceremony

Sportel beats record A truly global turnout for the convention


he international sports media industry players turned out in bigger numbers than ever before for the 2013 edition of Sportel in Monaco. Welcoming some 2,550 visitors and 994 companies from 65 countries around the world, this year's mega event smashed records put down by previous seasons.

"The figures are extremely positive," says Director of Sportel Amparo Di Fede, "notably in the increase in numbers of new exhibitors here." In total, there were 20.25 per cent more newcomers among the ranks of Sportel's attending companies and organisations than in 2012.

No Finish Line One week, 10,000 runners, 300,000 kilometres


he concept is simple: participants run or walk a 1.3 kilometre course around Port Hercule and for each lap completed, the Children & Future association donates one euro to projects that support children in difficulty or who are suffering. This year, from 16th to 24th November, No Finish Line is returning to the walkways of Monaco's marina and the organisers are clearly hoping the event continues to grow as they have set an ambitious target. For 2013, No Finish Line's objective is to get 10,000

participants to run 300,000 laps. With the course being open to entrants round the clock for eight whole days, the event will have to attract an extra 1,300 runners if it is to beat the 2012 record. Launched in 1999, the event has grown steadily and become a ‘must-do’ event in the last 14 years. Joining the team in 2001, the Children & Future association has been a pillar of No Finish Line and has maintained its support of underprivileged and sick children around the world ever since. For more information:

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Is your name down? I S Use your European right to vote in the coming elections

n March, France will vote to renew its town and village councils; in May, alongside its partners in the European Union, it will vote for the European Parliament. The particularity of these elections is that residents from other EU countries can vote - and be candidates along with their French neighbours. This right was granted by the Maastricht European Union Treaty of 1992, which conferred the status of 'European Citizen' on all European Union nationals, with the accompanying privilege of the possibility to vote in local and European elections in their country of residence. Brits lead the way In the last

municipal elections in 2008, 1,432 Europeans were elected as councillors

in France, with Britain providing the biggest contingent of 424, mainly in rural districts, followed by Belgium with 336. Despite having the largest European community in France, Portugal had just 180 councillors. To be eligible to vote or be a candidate in 2014, an EU resident must first register as a voter at his or her local town hall before the end of 2013. Town halls will remain open on Saturdays in December in order to give citizens extra time to register. Unlike French nationals, EU residents must register on two separate lists - one for each election. In the case of the European Parliament, the resident must sign a commitment that he or she will only vote in one country. Parliament restriction It is illegal to vote for the European Parliament both in one's home state and in one's country of residence. Any attempts to do so can be punished in France by a jail term of up to two years

and a 15,000 euro fine, so those who plan to vote at home should not register to vote for the Strasbourg assembly in France. No restrictions, however, apply to the municipal elections. Forms for registering can be found at town halls or be downloaded from the Interior Ministry website. The reference number of the application form for the municipal elections is Cerfa 12670*01 and for the European elections it is Cerfa 12671*01. People hoping to register to vote in the upcoming elections should make sure to take a suitable identity document, such as a passport, and proof of residence, like an electricity, gas or telephone bill. Do you need to re-register? The voting cards of residents who took part in any previous elections remain valid provided that the holders still live at the address where they were registered for the last ballot. Anyone who has moved, even within the same district, must re-register. Voters' lists can be consulted at town halls by citizens who want to check their status. Julian Nundy

Political Column by Julian Nundy The Riviera Times’ political commentator in Paris

ome said it was a slap in the face for Socialist President François Hollande. For others, it was a humiliation for the conservative UMP party of former President Nicolas Sarkozy. In reality, the success of the far right Front National in a local election in the southern Var department was a jolt for all France's establishment politicians who have spent the last 30 years declaiming that a vote for the FN would be unthinkable. The occasion was a byelection in Brignoles, a picturesque town of just over 16,000 inhabitants some 50 kilometres from Toulon, for a county councillor's seat. In more tranquil times, the victory of the anti-immigration, highly Eurosceptic party in such a minor election would have been seen as just a ripple of dissent that was likely to be erased in the next national vote. But the victory of the FN's Laurent Lopez in Brignoles came after a week in which an Ifop opinion poll forecast that the party founded by Jean-Marie Le Pen 41 years ago and now headed

Into the mainstream? by his daughter, Marine, could come first in next May's elections to the European Parliament. Ifop credited the FN with 24 per cent of voting intentions, ahead of the UMP's 22 per cent and 19 per cent for the Socialists. In the first round on October 7th, Lopez won 40 per cent of votes - 20 points more than the UMP. The Greens and Socialist-backed Communist candidates in Brignoles, both eliminated in the first round of voting, then called for a "Republican Front" in which voters of all stripes would rally behind the UMP candidate to ensure the far right's defeat. As the second round got underway a week later, a surge in voter participation - 2,926 more turned out - boosted speculation that the calls for a Republican Front were bearing fruit and that the UMP's Catherine Delzers might just prevail. In the event, some 1,700 of these new votes went to the FN, helping it to a majority 53.9 per cent. Marine Le Pen hailed the result as the "death" of the Republican Front and a sign

that her party was now joining the mainstream. If it is, then the mainstream has itself to blame. After a year and a half, Hollande's presidency is seen as weak and indecisive, tarnished by a gaggle of ministers who spend their time upstaging and contradicting each other. The UMP is riven by petty rivalries as its leaders jostle for the top spot before the next presidential elections in 2017. One of them, former Prime Minister François Fillon, broke an unwritten rule by saying recently that, faced with a runoff election between a FN candidate and a Socialist, UMP supporters should vote for the least sectarian, implying that UMP backers could vote for the FN. Previously, UMP heavyweights had always been careful never to incite support for a party seen as xenophobic and neo-fascist. For Laurent Lopez, the National Front's new man in Brignoles, his victory on 14th October "may serve to decomplex a part of the electorate." Now that is a prospect that terrifies the establishment.

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Green light for road changes? Lifeguards ahoy New tunnels and a proposal to cut the legal limit on French roads Continued from front page...


ritish, Irish and Danish drivers will be exempt from the new rules following the decision by their respective governments to opt out. While drivers from the three countries not included won't be penalised if caught breaking the law on camera, they will not escape on the spot fines if pulled over by the police. This means that they could face anything between 68 euros and one point on their licence to 3,750 euros, six points deducted and sus-

Eight major road offences made by foreign drivers 1. Speeding 2. Not using a seatbelt 3. Not stopping at a red light or other mandatory stop signal 4. Drink driving 5. Driving under the influence of drugs 6. Not wearing a safety helmet (motorcyclists) 7. Using a forbidden lane 8. Illegally using a mobile phone or other communication device while driving

pensions or even jail in extreme cases. S peed limits on motorways in much of Europe are higher than in Great Britain, which operates a 70 mph or 112 kmh limit instead of France's slightly increased 130 kmh. But the situation is complicated for many U.K. drivers who are unaccustomed to the variable limits imposed on French roads and changes between miles and kilometres. Britons are far from the only offenders, however, with an estimated two million foreign drivers also receiving verbal warnings and cautions on French roads each year. Speed limit reductions France's National Council for Road Safety (CNSR) is reportedly considering reducing the speed limit on main roads from 90 kmh to 80 kmh in a bid to bring fatalities down to less than 2,000 a year by 2020. The number of annual deaths currently stands at almost double the seven-year target. The routes concerned are single carriageways and Broads, in addition to other places where a 90 kmh limit is in force. Interior Minister Manuel Valls has previously demonstrated his support for a

speed reduction, saying, "I am convinced that in lowering the limit, particularly on B-roads, mortality rates will fall‌ If tomorrow we must take [lowering the speed limit] measures, I will not hesitate." The French 40 millions d'automobilistes association has far from welcomed the news and has released an open letter to the minister and the CNSR insisting that the current limit does not represent a danger. The group said that the government should instead look at improving vehicle safety and better maintenance of roads and infrastructure. The proposals came about following revelations by AFP that the CNSR had commissioned a report in early February. The findings and suggestions to lower the speed limit are expected to be discussed at the end of the month. New tunnels in the Riviera Var Prefect Laurent Cayrel has confirmed that the second underground tunnel in Toulon will open in early 2014. Safety tests are due to be performed during December, with the grand launch of the new route expected before March next year. The tunnel was built with the aim of relaxing traffic in

the often gridlocked area. Nice too could receive some traffic respite thanks to plans to install a new tunnel in the city’s western Saint Augustin district. Nice Mayor Christian Estrosi says the construction will ease buildup on Avenue Grinda and facilitate access to the A8. Roving cameras Drivers in France could wake up to find a speeding fine on the doormat without being aware that they had been caught on camera as from late October, mobile cameras mounted inside roving police vehicles have been snapping without flashing. Since March this year, 46 unmarked Renault Meganes fitted with these latest generation cameras have been trawling the highways and byways. The devices are able to photograph vehicles speeding by on the left, while the police car is moving and snap any vehicle going too fast, in both directions, when the police car is parked on the side of the road. By the end of 2013 all mobile cameras will have this new function and by 2015 there will be 300 of them on French roads. Elsa Carpenter

Record year for maritime interventions by CROSS-Med


a Garde's CROSS-Med an extra two), two additional safety and security service discoveries of bodies and a has reported a leap in sea- serious hike in swimmingborne interventions for this related accidents," said Joly. According to CROSS-Med, summer, with the number of operations between June and half of kayak, kitesurfing and September surpassing the windsurfing accidents are 2,000 mark for the first time. caused by an under apIncreasing by almost nine per preciation of the difficulty cent on 2012's figure for the involved in the sport, while eight of the sailors same period, the state-run organ- 2,000 call outs, who died during isation has pointed 5,000 people the summer were the finger at irrescued and victims of inexat sea. responsible be40+ deaths perience The organisation haviour at sea and poor judgement of between June also noted that the risks involved in and September i n t e r v e n t i o n s 2013 regarding motormarine activities. ised yachts had Speaking at a press conference in October, risen, with particular reference the Mediterranean Maritime to verbal warnings had out to Prefect Yves Joly told the local sailors breaking the law within press that more and more 300 metres of the coastline. Out of the total 2,070 people were enjoying the benefits of the sea, a fact that operations performed by contributed to around 5,000 CROSS-Med's team, the people having to be rescued organisation said that almost half, 43.5 per cent, of people over the four-month period. Compared to last year's were in "real danger". August slate, which saw the deaths of was a particularly heavy 31 individuals, 2013's summer month for the coast and season recorded more than 40 lifeguards, with a total of 808 deaths and disappearances at operations and an average of sea. "The rise is explained by a nearly 30 call outs a day. slight increase in diving Elsa Carpenter deaths (of which there were

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Nice goes underground


the project, saying that the route was part of "designing the green city of the 21st century". But while mounting resentment among rival politicians and worried citizens add an element of controversy to the plans, it is difficult not to be seduced by the facts. Stretching from the port area of the city to its airport in the west, the 11.3 kilometres of tramway will allow passengers departing from the marina to reach Nice Côte d'Azur Airport in 26 minutes. When completed, some two thirds of Nice's population


Above: The tramway will connect up with the Saint Augustin bus and train travel hub area. Right: Passengers will be able to reach the two terminals of the Nice Côte d’Azur Airport in just 26 minutes from the port of Nice

and 85 per cent of its hotels will be within 500 metres from a tram stop. For the 171,000 daily commuters who arrive from west of Nice, four new park and ride car parks will allow quick and easy access to the city centre and help bring down the number of vehicles on its streets and boulevards. Initial studies suggest that by decreasing the number of cars in Nice by 20,000 daily, atmospheric pollution in the city centre will fall by 15 to 17.5 per cent. The additional planting of green spaces along the tram track will also help contribute towards bettering the quality of air for residents and visitors. Current estimations indicate that well over 105,000 people use the existing tramway each day, but Estrosi says that number is set to soar to around 200,000 once the second line is finished.

Builders are already at work on installing the route, with construction on the underground sections expected to make its debut in early 2014 following further analysis of the terrain. If planners hope to meet their target of completion by the end of 2017, an average of 3.5 kilometres of track will be laid each year. The project will cost the Nice Côte d'Azur Metropolis 500 million euros, as well as benefiting from 150 million euros of subsidies and grants from the state and European purses and the airport. However, doubt has arisen over the figures because they stem from predictions in 2009. The underground sections too have proved a sticking point for shop owners and residents in the areas that will undergo major redevelopment, but Estrosi has counteracted concerns by pointing out the successes of the Lyon and Paris metros, which have experienced similar work in the past. Four out of 20 of the new stations will be subterranean. An extension to the yet-tobe-built line is also in the pipeline and could see Ligne 2 wind up into the Eco Valley development and meet the recently inaugurated Allianz Riviera stadium. Elsa Carpenter

Above: The track heads underground at Quai Cassini in the port



ears of consultations, studies, public opinion and archaeological surveys have finally come together for the launch of work on Nice's second tramline. Beginning simultaneously at the eastern and western points of the route in the port and near the MIN market, the future track is expected to be completed by an optimistic 2017 and is set to revitalise public transport systems in the city. Mayor of Nice Christian Estrosi brushed aside the criticisms that have dogged


Work begins on the east to west Ligne 2 tramway

Seen here at Ferber, much of the line will run along the Promenade

Cosmic countryside The Valberg trail, where each step is one million kilometres into space discovering our solar system


n the beginning, everything goes by very quickly. Valberg’s sentier planétaire - planetary path - starts with the shining Sun and soon the figures of Mercury and Venus appear, before Earth shows itself; a simple iron frame suspended against a lush, forested

backdrop. Each step along the solar-inspired trail is the equivalent of one million kilometres in space, thus taking you three kilometres through dramatic landscapes to far off points of Uranus and Neptune. Almost 2,000 metres above sea level and winding through

Land art: Decorative pieces of wood, metal and stone line the planetary path

the compelling scenery of two spectacular canyons, Gorges du Daluis and Gorges du Cian, the trail is a journey through some of the most breathtaking vistas in the region, as well as an Earthbound trip through the universe. The path is split into two sections, making it easier for amateur walkers to enjoy the route, but also giving more hardy hikers the chance to take it all the way. Those who are satisfied by reaching the Saturn outpost can meander back down to the station after an hour on the trail or even take the cable car for a bird's eye view of the forest. But it would be a shame to leave the path now. If your feet are tired from the slopes, take a minute to soak in the impressive scenery on Mont Mounier or the pieces of land art made from wood, metal and stones of the Alpes Maritimes along the way.

Neptune marks the end of the three kilometre route in Valberg

The principle of the path apart from the views - is educative and walkers can rent a multilingual audio guide from the tourist office in Valberg. Stories about meteorites, Polaris and the constellations of the Milky Way allow visitors to learn about the solar system as well as providing some light entertainment along the route. About halfway between the final Neptune point and Lac Sénateur, some two kilometres into the trail, there is a

covered spot for family picnics, the Abri Sainte Marie. If you forget to bring snacks, keep an eye open for wild ripe strawberries growing on the bushes and in the undergrowth lining the beaten path. It ends on an open plateau with panoramic views, and then is just a 90 minute stroll back to civilisation, although you will not want to return. Open summer and winter, for more information on the trail, please visit: Peter Bausch/Elsa Carpenter

Uranus stands proud on a pile of stones


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The Cucina Bianca experience

OliOliva A celebration of all things olive


s the name suggests, the Imperia OliOliva festival is dedicated to the wealth of products derived from the ancient olive trees of the region. Every November, the historic town centre of Oneglia becomes the world's olive capital as its streets, porticoes and squares fill with

A delicious stroll through the history, culture and tastes of Imperia

stalls from the neighbouring towns and villages. From the fruits themselves to oils, tapenades, bathroom products, medicines and items delicately crafted from the branches of the trees, between 15th and 17th

November, visitors to the popular festival can indulge in all things olive. Perfect excuse to visit The event is the perfect chance to blend gastronomic pleasure with culture and heritage. While much of the action takes place in Imperia, festival goers can also enjoy a bounty of other activities in outlying areas, such as wine and food tastings, visits to farms, groves, mills, and also to important sites and monuments of Liguria's past. Imperia a focal point Olives are of course a quintessential figure in the history and culture of the Mediterranean, but nowhere more so than in Imperia. The city was the birthplace of the now international National Organisation of Olive Oil Tasters and the largest employer is the well-reputed olive oil company, Olio Carli. The region's philosophy of healthy eating and wellbeing has been built up around its connection with the typical fruit. Now in its 13th year, the festival is a highlight in the social, business and gourmet calendars of Liguria. EC

Below ground An earthquake strikes Val Maïra


awn hadn't yet broken over the mountains of Liguria when residents felt a rumbling beneath their beds on 15th October. The commune of Castelmagno in the Val Maïra region was the closest to the epicentre of the quake, but the 5am tremors were enough to disturb the sleep of people as far away as Nice and in the Haute Alpes. Scientists from the French Central Bureau for Seismology (BCSF) estimate that the earthquake's epicentre was at

a depth of around 16 kilometres. It sent ripples of energy across the alpine region and beyond the Franco-Italian border, with the most predominant witness reports coming from towns north of the epicentre. Reaching around four on the Richter scale, the terremoto was almost a mirror image of a quake that struck the same place just one year ago. No damage to property, livestock or human life were reported following the event.

What it lacks in colour, the cuisine makes up for in taste


or centuries, the people of the upper Arroscia Valley have handed down from generation to generation the recipes of the region's traditional cucina bianca - white cuisine. Now, several communities in the area are getting behind the ancient cooking style as they try to transform it into a tourist attraction. It was the shepherds of the Ligurian Alps who made the cuisine out of necessity, using only the basic products they had at their disposal. The fleeting nature of much of the ingredients was replicated in the annual exchange of items between what seemed like distant pastures at the time. For the people of the Arroscia Valley, Cuneo, Piedmont and Tende in southern France, their life was that of a peasant economy. Among the typical products that allowed this mountain style of cuisine to flourish were flour, potato, cabbage, leek, garlic, root vegetables, and of course dairy. The dishes were prepared in meager shelters and without the use of more colourful ingredients like tomatoes, which only became part of the diet in the mid 19th century despite their popularity on the coast, and basil. Cheese of all kinds played a vital part in their culinary feats, but especially the aromatic brusso and naturally fermented ricotta. To preserve and promote these age-old traditions and its distinctive ingredients, the

Strada della Cucina Bianca - Civiltà delle Malghe route through the Monte Saccarello area on the Franco-Italian border was launched. It crisscrosses through Liguria, the Cosio d'Arroscia, Mendatica, Montegrosso Pian Latte, Pornassio and Triora communities before meeting La Brigue in the Alpes Maritimes and Briga Alta in the province of Cuneo. Mendatica, for example, celebrates the popular Festa della Cucina Bianca festival each August and the entire village dedicates itself to the specialities and produce of the pastureland. Long-established families in the hills prepare pan fritù, streppa caccia e là, turle, turta de patate and frittelle di mele among other dishes. The only genuinely authentic restaurant we could find that serves the white cuisine, created with the original methods, is the Agriturismo Cioi Longhi in Montegrosso Pian Latte, not far from Mendatica. For just 22 euros, choose from eight antipastis, two first and two second courses, two desserts, wine, true Italian caffè and homemade liqueurs. There are also delicious jams prepared on site from pears, apples, cinnamon and pine nuts available to take away. But you too can be creative. Below find two simple recipes that reflect the cucina bianca traditions and are quick and easy to prepare. Petra Hall Elsa Carpenter

Arroscia Valley’s traditional alpine style of cuisine is bursting with flavour despite being a more blanched take on authentic Italian cooking


Turta de patate

Serves four

Serves four

Dough 160g flour One egg Water as needed

Filling 300g potatoes 100g very soft cheese (ricotta or toma) 50g freshly grated Parmesan Two egg yolks Mint leaves

Preparation Cook unpeeled potatoes then peel and set to one side. Once cooled, mix with egg yolks, cheese and coarsely chopped mint leaves. Blend together to make a smooth paste. Make a stretchy dough from the flour, egg and water, then rolling out into thin pasta sheets. Cut with large ravioli cutter. Add a little filling and press both sides together firmly. Bring salted water to the boil and cook for a few minutes. Drain and fry briefly with butter and minute. Serve hot with a sprinkling on Parmesan.

Dough 200g flour Two tablespoons of olive oil A pinch of salt Water as needed

Filling 800g potatoes Two leeks 200ml cream 100g freshly grated Parmesan and Pecorino Olive oil, salt, pepper and milk as needed

Preparation Make a smooth dough and allow to rest for several minutes before dividing into two pieces and rolling it out thinly. Peel the potatoes and cook until tender. Sauté the finely chopped leeks in oil and allow to cool. Blend all of the filling ingredients together and season. Cover an oiled baking dish with a layer of the dough and fill before covering with a second layer of dough. Braid the edges of the pie with any remaining dough and pierce the surface with a fork. Brush the surface with oil and milk before placing in a preheated over for 45 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius.

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Green giant of eco awards Prince Albert II Foundation honours researchers at pinnacle of environmental study and awareness

Formula E CEO Alejandro Agag unveils the car to be used in the race

Generation-E An electric future for racing


he e-Prix finally has a place in the world of racing. Speaking at the Sportel convention, Formula E CEO Alejandro Agag confirmed that Monaco's iconic racetrack would join nine others in the first ever series exclusively dedicated to energy powered cars. Describing the event, which begins next September, as "a vision for the future of the motor industry", Agag said that the race would be an "essential spectacle" in the movement towards greener transport, as well as fulfilling a need to create a sustainable championship. Agag also revealed that organisers are eager to attract a young audience in order to

battle against preconceptions that electric-powered cars are unfashionable and slow. "We need to make electric cars more attractive," said Agag. "We intend to engage with kids between 10 and 14 years of age because we want them to choose an electric car when they are old enough to drive." The initial specifications of the race are 10 teams, 20 drivers and 40 cars (teams will change cars during one pit stop when the battery runs out). Racetracks are to be between 2.5 and three kilometres in length and the cars will reach speeds of 220 kmh, going from zero to 100 kmh in three seconds. Elsa Carpenter

Provisional racing calendar for the series R1: Beijing, China on 20th September 2014 R2: Putrajaya, Malaysia on 18th October 2014 R3: Hong Kong, China on 8th November 2014 R4: Punta del Este, Uruguay on 13th December 2014 R5: Buenos Aires, Argentina on 10th January 2015 R6: Los Angeles, USA on 14th February 2015 R7: Miami, USA on 18th April 2015 R8: Monte Carlo, Monaco on 9th May 2015 R9: Berlin, Germany on 30th May 2015 R10: London, England on 27th June 2015

Sarah Del Ben/Wild Touch


n the footsteps of giants like Jane Goodall and Sir David Attenborough, a marine biologist, a geographer specialising in water, and a research body focused on the Antarctic were this year's winners of the Prince Albert II Foundation Awards. The winners mirror the foundation's priorities which are to limit the effects of climate change, preserve biodiversity, manage water resources and combat desertification. Prince Albert II presented the awards at a glittering ceremony in the Grimaldi Forum. The winners are: - Jane Lubchenco, an American marine biologist who was advisor to former President Clinton and is a confidant of the Obama administration. For three decades she has been fighting for a better understanding of climate change, with one of her biggest concerns being our oceans. "I am glad the oceans have a bigger role to play in research than they did in the past," she told the audience in Monaco. She says acidity levels are reaching alarming proportions, especially for flora and fauna, "another reason to reduce CO2 emissions." - John Anthony Allan is a British geographer who was the first to employ the concept of "virtual water" to describe the quantity needed to produce a product (for example, 16,000 litres for one kilogram of beef). In his view, "There is enough water for everyone - we just have to use it reasonably!" He works tirelessly as a mediator between farmers, policy-makers and consumers.

Il était une forêt

Fondation Prince Albert II


L-R: Jerónimo López-Martínez, representing SCAR, Jane Lubchenco, Prince Albert II and John Anthony Allan at the awards ceremony

- The aptly acronymed SCAR (Scientific Committee on Antarctic Research), represented by Jerónimo López-Martínez, was founded in 1958. It initiates, develops and coordinates high quality research in the Antarctic region. This sensitive ecosystem is particularly vulnerable to the effects of global warming. The Antarctic is of

great scientific value to Man and melting ice will have a big impact on our climate system. The awards are in their sixth year, with the winners each receiving a trophy specially designed for the event, which this year was an impressionistic glass sculpture by Gilles Chabrier of a melting glacier. Claire Lathbury

FROM THE Oscar-winning vision of Luc Jacquet, most famous for his 2006 'March of the Penguins' documentary, comes another touching heritage film, 'Il était une forêt'. Follow the extraordinary filmmaker on a journey through the heart of a tropical rainforest, marvelling at its unrivalled beauty and peculiar inhabitants. Seven centuries of biodiversity, in which animals and plants have lived harmoniously side by side, have contributed to creating this unique environment. From soil roots to the heights of the canopy, 'Il était une forêt' unravels the mystery and story of this great place. Inspired after a meeting with botanist Francis Hallé, director Jacquet's newest offering is set to hit cinemas on 13th November.

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Tricks of light and shadow David Rodriguez Caballero at the Marlborough Gallery Conceptual in form and in thought, David Rodriguez Caballero's burnished and richly dimensional works challenge the status of light and shadow. Jutting out with grace and impulse, the half reliefs and freestanding sculptures are a paradox of rawness and perfection: the simple yet sublime results of a nurtured approach to what the artist calls "surface painting". There may be no trace of a canvas at Caballero's exhibition, but he has cultivated every crease, line and ripple with the delicacy and finesse of a true fine art painter…


aving been re- Monegasque terrain. He has

presented by art house and gallery Marlborough since 2005, Caballero has now returned to the Principality for his first solo exhibition on

toured the world with his art, but has never left behind his native Spain and continues to divide his time between New York and Madrid, where much of his work is created.

Caballero cites inspiration from his native Spain,NYC and abstract African masks

Graduating with a degree in Fine Arts from País Vasco University and a PhD in the Analysis and Practices of Artistic Languages, Caballero began his career with a paintbrush in hand. But following his move west, he became enthralled by the skylines and skyscrapers of New York and, at the turn of the millennium, Caballero had stepped away from the safety of the classical and into the conceptual work of contemporary art and brazen industrial textures. Until 29th November, visitors to the gallery will be able to uncover an array of exceptional pieces from the artist at the one-off Plier et Déplier exhibition. As the event got underway with a glamourous opening, The Riviera Times spoke to the artist himself as he described the route from conceptualisation to creation. The Riviera Times: What is the process from initial design to finished piece? David Rodriguez Caballero: I start with a small, hand-sized paper model, stuck together, crumpled or folded. From there I enter the metalworking stages with a small industrial company. According to its

thickness and malleability, I select the material and extent to which it is bent, folded or wrinkled. Here, the painting process begins. While the surfaces are roughened by hand in my studio with wire wool, the painted pieces undergo a process much like painting a car as the perfect application onto a smooth base creates a visual and tactile contrast to the seemingly roughed-up aluminium or brass surfaces of the remaining sculpture. RT: Some of your pieces are three-dimensional yet still hang on the wall. Can they be displayed in various ways? DRC: No, the nature of its presentation is all part of the eventual concept. The threedimensional attributes are highlighted and enforced, but sometimes the rear part of a work is not for show. RT: How do you infuse a tactile appeal as well as a visual allure into your work? DRC: During the manufacturing process, I inspect all the surfaces that have been roughened and paint with my fingertips over the wrinkles. For me, the physical touch of a fold or sharp edge some-

Abraded aluminium meets silky teal finish in Caballero’s 03 julio 2013

times incites a moment of emotion and excitement. RT: You once said that your work is influenced by African masks. Does this still ring true for your work today? DRC: In many of my pieces there is a desire to express the figurative and abstract aspects of African art. Its presence eludes the conscious perception and yet it is at the root, and in the aura, of the work. RT: Does splitting your life between New York and Madrid have an influence on your work? DRC: New York is a very lively city, where different cultures come together and where new perspectives can be explored without boundaries. It is in this atmosphere that I can develop new projects and forms of expression. While there, I produce small models

with which I travel to Madrid in order to create the final product. RT: As your reputation as an artist grows globally, are you being asked to realise bigger pieces too? DRC: Little by little, yes, the dimensions are becoming greater. The largest sculpture I've made to date was for the Museo Würth La Rioja in Spain, which reached a height of seven metres! But the sheer size of a piece isn't an artistic challenge. In contrast, it is often the venues, such as the Centro del Carmen in Valencia where the interior is adorned in impressive Gothic architecture, that are the most formidable opponents for my sculptures. Alfred Thum Elsa Carpenter

Raise a glass... Monaco’s rendition of Oktoberfest was a roaring success

Prince Albert II with T.A. Distribution S.A.M CEO Tonio Arcaini and his daughter

IT WAS a record-breaking year for Oktoberfest in Monaco. "We had up to 450 guests per night," says head of Café de Paris Stefano Brancato, "just unbelievable!" And it is all thanks to a collaboration between SBM and Germany's oldest brewery, Weihenstephan. T.A. Distribution S.A.M. CEO Tonio Arcaini told The Riviera Times, "The music here makes the mood and gets people up singing and dancing. Everything you get in Munich is here, of course in miniature, and the food is always better!"

Spirits were high as guests celebrated in true Oktoberfest style

Café de Paris decked out in Bavaria

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Next generation jazz A fusion of eras at the Monte Carlo Jazz festival


1) Harmonica playing Charles Pasi owns every style. 2) The ‘Voice of a generation’ Jamaican Canadian songstress Kellylee Evans. 3) Self-proclaimed 98 per cent ‘funky’ Maceo Parker is a pillar of the funk and soul movement. 4) Dashing Raphael Gualazzi blends pop, classical and Italian song to put a spin on 1940s jazz



ime stops for no music at the Monte Carlo Jazz festival so if you thought rhythm and blues or the sultry tunes of soul were for summer alone, think again. From 26th to 30th November, a selection of artists representing the past, present and future of jazz will be taking over the prestigious opera house of the Principality for nonstop nights of pleasure, passion and power. The man behind the fantastic line-up is Director JeanRené Palacio and he's made it his goal to clash the classic with the contemporary and the world-famous names with little known talents. "The philosophy of Monte Carlo Jazz is to bring jazz alive," says Palacio. "Many people think of jazz as too intellectual and no longer a popular type of music. We want to woo a new audience with an eclectic programme. We want to make people dance." If diversity was what the organisers were aiming for, they have certainly achieved it. The opening night is a mashup of inspired-genres and artists influenced by the 1950s jazz movement, but with the unique funk sounds of Meh-

liana followed by Larry Coryell's blues and the Juan Carmona Quartet's spicy flamenco style, it is far from traditional. The next evening debuts a collaboration between the Marcus Miller Band and the Monte Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra, which will see fresh, young talents such as operatic-jazz singer Kenn Hicks and Brazilian harpist Edmar Castaneda. Palacio, who has worked on many jazz festival projects in the south of France including Jazz à Juan, describes the November festival as a melting pot of performers. "Monte Carlo Jazz is smaller and more intimate than other festivals on the Riviera," says Palacio, "and this allows us to try out different concepts. It's like a laboratory for jazz." This vision is visible in the global approach to its stars, highlighted on 29th November with acts from all over the world. The jazz master of tomorrow, Italian pianist Raphael Gualazzi, leads the soirée with his quirky keys before afro-beat and pop maestro Eric Légnini adds an edgy ambience to the night. Jamaican-Canadian songstress Kellylee Evans is also set to display her

jazz melodies. "Music has no boundaries and no borders," says Palacio. "It is strong and international.” The closing night sees the acclaimed cornerstone of funk Maceo Parker play a vibrant set, full of gusto and timeless prestige. The voice of English 'Howlin' Wilf' James Hunter and the seductive harmonica notes of Parisian Charles Pasi will then bring the festival to a spectacular finale. "I want to make every night the best night for the public," says Palacio. "As for the future of Monte Carlo Jazz, I want Bruce Springsteen on the Salle Garnier stage.” EC 3


A marina for a modern Monaco Port Hercule enters drastic six year redevelopment programme


three metres closer to the water's edge, allowing the pedestrianised zone to be widened to a uniform five metres across along the Quai des Etats Unis. The carousel and other fair rides will go, replaced by three transformers for electricity company SMEG and plant rooms for nearby outdoor restaurants and commercial establishments.

here was none of the usual respite for Port Hercule following the Monaco Yacht Show as instead of looking forward to a slower winter season, the harbour was busy bracing itself for a hectic period of construction. Almost as soon as the crowds left the quayside, builders moved in as a number of major redevelopment projects kick-

started the modernisation of Monaco's iconic marina. At a press conference in late September, the Monegasque government revealed its extensive plans to revitalise the postcard port of the Principality and supply the area with the extra facilities it desperately needs. The first major development will be the shifting of the famous Formula 1 track some

Port Hercule's Quai Louis II will be closed to the public until April 2014 as ongoing work on the Yacht Club de Monaco enters a new phase of construction. Access for pedestrians will be severely restricted, while those on yachts in Quai Lucciana will still be able to reach their vessels, but will have to take a longer route around the marina. For drivers, road access to the area will be limited to the Louis II tunnel that runs parallel to the port. "This step marks the start of a new and important stage in the construction site," says head of the operation Eric Kazarian.

And Quai Louis II is off limits too...

Between the Olympic swimming pool and the Quai des Etats Unis, the Darse Nord will see the construction of a 300-place underground car park split over three levels that has been designed to alleviate the considerable traffic and parking problems of the Principality. The zone above ground will be transformed into the new home for the Princes' Car Collection museum, which is currently found in Fontvieille. The heavier construction work is expected to start following Monaco's horse jumping show at the end of June in 2014, but the installation of the transformers and electrical hubs has already begun. According to the government, every effort will be made to dampen the noise, particularly during the demolition stages. As the project will be forced to work around Monaco’s busy event schedule and extensive calendar constraints, it is not expected to reach absolute completion before 2019. Claire Lathbury

The Pink Ribbon Monaco assocation light up the Monte Carlo Casino in pink for the duration of October in support of the fight against breast cancer



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Indulge in a Danish Noël A Christmas market that will warm your belly and your soul


ith winter slowly rolling in and a hankering for heartier meals grows, the Côte d'Azur's Danish Church is organising its annual Christmas market in the heart of Mandelieu. Spreads of the quintessential Danish open-faced sandwich, lean cold cuts, mouthwateringly rich chocolate cakes and perhaps the odd hotdog, the market is a gourmet’s delight to northern Europeans looking to put a native twist on their Riviera Christmas festivities. If you have never tried flæskesteg, Denmark's answer to roast pork that is prepared with crackling and often served with delicious red cabbage and caramelised potato accompaniments, here's your chance. Visitors can also sample the many variations of the archetypal open-faced sandwich, which combines a host of ingredients piled up in an aesthetic and delectable arrangement on a single slice of nutty or rye bread, and the light, buttery pastries of the Danish nation at the Christmas market's restaurant area. In addition to the generous feast of culinary items, the



market will also be offering everything you need to add a traditional Danish touch to your Yuletide celebrations. From exquisite tree decorations to handmade table ornaments and adornments, welcome the north into your home in spirit and in style. For more than three decades, the church - Dansk Kirke - has been a pillar of the Danish community in the south of France, but every nationality is made to feel welcome at the market. Pastor Carl Bjarkam says, "Our visitors are mostly Scandinavian, but there are many British people here too. Last year we had over 800 guests!" According to President of the association Jesper Bitsch, a Dane who has been living on the Côte d'Azur for nearly 30 years, last winter's market was so popular that organisers had to double up on their stocks and wares as foods and Xmas decorations imported from Denmark sold out before they even arrived on the Riviera. Bitsch says that it is thanks to a "chain of goodwill" that the church group is able to bring in authentic Danish products and produce, with


Philippe Bender (left) has handed over the baton to Wolfgang Dörner (right)

who has dedicated his entire life to the study of music. He began his foray into the profession with studies at the School of Music in his hometown, won first prize at the 34th International Conducting Competition in Besançon in 1984 and then embarked on his calling as the head of an orchestra. He became the musical director of the Lübeck opera in 1987 and later acted as assistant to Lorin Maazel at the National Orchestra of France in Paris. Dörner continues to regularly conduct large concerts throughout Europe as well as for radio and television productions on networks such as Radio France, WDR and SWR, and for more than two decades he has been chief guest conductor of Paris' highly prestigious Pasdeloup Orchestra. The list of the talented conductor's awards and his achievements is endless, but each has brought him one step closer to his new title. So how did he end up applying for the post on the Côte d'Azur? "A few years ago, I con-

1) Enjoy deliciously buttery Danish pastries, homemade and full of flavour. 2) If you’ve never tried or even heard of the open-faced sandwich, now is your chance to sample this central part of Danish cuisine. 3) Father Christmas munches on a hotdog at last year’s event. 4) The team behind the market is made up of countless volunteers and members of the Danish Church


Dozens of volunteers help organise and run the Christmas market

A retrospective from Marie-Laure de Decker

How to fill the shoes of a man four decades in the job Bender who is set to hand over the reins of the orchestra after 38 years in the job. It was just one week prior to the printing of the programme that the management of the orchestra decided to seek out and whittle down 70 candidates for the exiting Bender's role, and the current season sees the two men blend their experience and expertise together in a collaborative effort. The choice of the new leader fell on Dörner, a man


Head to the market on Saturday 23rd (10am - 4pm) and Sunday 24th (10am 3pm) November at the L’Hostellerie du Golf in Mandelieu. For more information:

Seeing is believing

Changing of the guard nder a glistening blue sky, an official press conference on the beach in Cannes welcomes the soonto-be sole musical director for the Regional Orchestra of Cannes. Wolfgang Dörner is entering a new stage in his orchestral career, having been a professor of conducting since 1993 at the University of Music in Graz. In the meantime, at the Vienna-born conductor's side is his predecessor Philippe

people supplying and driving the items down south for free. Dozens of charitable givers and volunteers are behind the market and it shows in the warm and inviting atmosphere that brings families and friends to its doors. "As a cultural association, we don't receive any funding from the government in Denmark," says the pastor, "so the Christmas market is a very important fundraising event for us." Elsa Carpenter


Dörner has already worked with the orchestra in the past

ducted the local orchestra," he explains. "The musicians asked me if I could imagine coming back here and invited me to run for the job… It is very important that the musicians want you there." However, he still commutes to the south of France, with his family remaining in Vienna for the time being. "For this reason, I am grateful to Philippe that he is able to stay on here for the season," says Dörner, on the precipice of an extensive and demanding 2013/14 programme. Every genre, from the contemporary to the classic, has its place in the coming line-up, but to talk about his future plans for the group, Dörner says it is still too early… We will have to speak again. PH

he is one of the most famous faces among French photographers and made her name as a daring photojournalist during the latter part of the 20th century with her brusque documentation of conflicts in Vietnam, Chad and South Africa. MarieLaure de Decker's work is once again being shared with the public in a retrospective exhibition that brings together more than 100 photographs and images from her decadespanning career. Until 19th January 2014, the

Théâtre de la Photographie et de l'Image in Nice will display a superb collection of de Decker's shots and self portraits. Discover the changing faces of her photography and experience a global voyage crossing from the far reaches to Asia to the dusty plains of Africa as well as some candid images of the woman herself with a selection of autoportraits taken between 1967 and 1987. For more information, please visit: Elsa Carpenter

Paradox: the changing faces of Marie-Laure de Decker’s artistic career

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Your taste buds are in for a treat this month... The Riviera is a gastronomic, haute cuisine heaven in November Take a Michelin star, equal doses of sweet and savoury, three course meals, four delectable gourmet shows and what do you have? Five star gastronomy and a whole month of sampling some of the freshest, most innovative and certainly delicious ingredients the Côte d'Azur can offer. Whether you are tempted by the rustic flavours of the Var or the exquisite tastes of Monte Carlo, Elsa Carpenter discovers that there is a date and plate for every foodie this month.

Salon Palais Gourmand 7th to 11th November


escribed as a 'salon to make your mouth water', Cagnes sur Mer's is a gastronomic Tour de France that brings together more than 300 exhibitions from across the country. From eastern Alsace and the agriculturally rich Vallée du Rhône to the crisp vineyard offerings of Languedoc and the Atlantic-infused tastes of the Vendée, the Salon du Palais Gourmand celebrates the diversity and finesse of authentic French cuisine. Quintessential ingredients and dishes are aplenty and

the stalls are routinely restocked to provide the best quality produce for hungry visitors. If you've got a sweet tooth, sample light desserts and macaroons from the Var and the Alpes Maritimes, aromatic almond pastries from greater Provence or explore the recipes of Basque gateaux connoisseurs. For the more savoury souls, there will be a wealth of foie gras, freshly prepared pastas and pastoral tapenades along with barrels of juicy olives. There will be seafood and freshwater fish coming from

all over France's waterways and coastlines. One Brittany stall will be proposing edible, organic algae while another serves up delicious stews from the Mediterranean and Brazil. Expensive palettes will be hankering for Gironde's caviar, a French take on the Russian delicacy. Don't forget that as autumn settles in for the long haul, mushroom harvests are flourishing. Mix mountainside fungi with earthy truffles, all washed down with a homemade cider from the north of France or a sparkling champagne from the region's ultravaluable fields. Crowned France's - and Europe's - best sommelier, Franck Thomas' wide selection of vintages will appeal to wine-lovers. The professional plonk master will be offering free tastings and advice throughout the event. Entrance is eight euros and parking at the Hippodrome Côte d'Azur is free for visitors. For more information:

Salon Saveurs & Terroirs 15th to 17th November


njoy all the delectable flavours of the south of France at the acclaimed Salon Saveurs & Terroirs in the town of Mandelieu. Under the patronage of double Michelin star chef Stéphane Raimbault, the event welcomes the highest quality local producers for three days of cuisine heaven. Hoping to beat its impressive 14,000 visitors in 2012, the salon has stepped up its offerings this year, with new restaurant areas and a plethora of culinary demonstrations. A superb selection of French wines, champagnes and spirits will line the beverage hall, representing the championed regions of Alsace, Bourgogne, Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Provence, and the Loire, along with a number of Italian and Swiss specialities. Stock up for winter nights with the sumptuous array of cold meats, foie gras and patés, glacé fruits and sugarcoated snaps, and irresistibly creamy cheeses. The spirit of the fair is to recreate a passion for experimenting in the kitchen with local ingredients. Throughout the weekend, organised shows demonstrating how to add flair to a humdrum dish and spice up your recipe book

will be run by chefs and professionals from the Var and the Alpes Maritimes, led by the fair's own esteemed supporter Raimbault. But if your cooking is already top notch, head to the 'Art de la Table' area and discover how a simple stylish edge can revive the dinner table. From prestigious brands of cutlery and classic porcelain platters to luxurious napkins and sparkling vases, you'll find everything you need to recreate the ambience of an illustrious establishment in your home. Having featured Corsica and the West Indies as their regional guests of honour in the two previous exhibitions, 2013 will see Mandelieu's twinned town of Crans Montana in the Swiss region of Valais and two of its most celebrated chefs take centre stage. The internationally prized wines, soft and hard cheeses, and medicinal herbs and plants of the forested region will be yours to tantalisingly explore as well as the alpine traditions of the charming commune. Entrance is five euros and free parking is just a quick walk from the Centre Expo Congrès. For more information:

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Monte Carlo Gastronomie 22nd to 25th November

Les Fromages de Suisse 21st November to 14th December


f the change in season has left you craving for something more substantial on your plate than the light flavours of the Mediterranean, the Swiss savours of authentic alpine cheeses could be just the answer. Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday during the event, cheeses from across the mountain nation will take over the bars and bistros of Nice for veritable gastronomic Happy Hours, in which guests can sample the many creamy delights. No less than 13 different cheeses from Switzerland, including the unique tastes of products such as Emmentaler, Appenzeller, La Tête de Moine, Sbrinz and Gruyère will be

available to try on their own, but also in specially concocted recipes that aim to inspire visitors to incorporate Swiss cheese into their cooking. Local French chef Bruno Oger will be on hand to guide you through the different types and aromas and if you want to give it a go yourself at home, pick up the 'Trop Bon! Les Fromages du Suisse' book, which provides easy to follow recipes for starters through to desserts. Over the next few months, Les Fromages de Suisse will be travelling through six of France’s biggest cities and Nice is third on the list. For more information and where to find the event:

style and expertise. Here, the finest producers of gastronomy products in France and Europe as a whole gather under one roof, so expect top quality specialities and irresistible morsels of foie gras, caviar and truffles, as well as the more affordable selections of olives, chocolates and pastries. Arrive hungry and leave satisfied by heading to one of the eateries or dining facilities, tailored to a range of budgets, at the event and try exquisite meals prepared on site by some of Europe's most prized chefs. But the food isn't the only attraction, with the masters of Monaco's kitchens, which include the innovative minds behind the menus of some of the most prestigious establishments in the Principality among their number, displaying their aptitude and savoir-faire in rare public demonstrations. Exclusive groups such as the Monegasque Association of Sommeliers and Menton Fellowship of Etiquette will also be well represented at the event, presenting their services and activities within the art de vivre and gourmet sector. As well as being an opportunity to sample products from both sides of the Principality's

borders, the fair is a chance for professionals within the industry to find inspiration, knowledge and most importantly contacts. Exhibitors and guests are encouraged to network with the wealth of tourism and advertising agencies, interior designers, event management teams and promoters. Entrance is five euros and there is reduced-price parking. For more information see:

Photography courtesy of Les Fromages de Suisse & Monte Carlo Gastronomie


his self-styled Grand Prix of Food Shows is a sophisticated display of elegance and excellence within the gourmet sphere. Attended by the Principality's most highly acclaimed chefs and culinary personalities, the atmosphere is grandiose and haute cuisine to its gold gilded roots. Held in the Espace Fontvieille over four days of exceptional tastes and talents, the Monte Carlo Gastronomie fair is a chance to indulge in the five star world of dining and show stopping culinary delights. Be prepared for glamour in all its forms, with exotic and extravagant ingredients, alluring aromas, vibrant colours and interminable touches of

Oil, the old way


ating back over 300 years to 1706, the Moulin Sainte Anne in the hills near Grasse continues to produce local olive oils although it is no longer the River Vallon that is the energy behind its powerful presses, but electricity. Seven years ago, Cannes native Alexandre Hembise took over this emblematic house of history. He invested

time and money in modernising the old mill, buying a new olive press and carefully cultivating a crop of 21st century clients from nearby towns and villages. Hembise says that the connection people have with Moulin Sainte Anne is still alive and well. "For many people, it is important to continue using the presses of the building," he adds.

Fresh talent centre stage The International Zepter Prize for Young Chefs


he philanthropic Zepter business empire is reaching into gourmet territory with a brand new prize dedicated to celebrating and commending burgeoning talent within the world of haute cuisine. Entitled the International Zepter Prize for Young Chefs, the first edition takes place 22nd November in Nice's Centre Universitaire Méditerranéen. The laureate will win not only acclaim, but also a sum of 10,000 euros. Under the cultured eyes of Honorary President Madel-

eine Zepter, a woman already closely engaged in globally felicitating players in contemporary art, design, literature and opera, a prestigious jury panel with expertise in gastronomy and art de vivre will award one young talent with the laurel. Judges include journalistturned-food connoisseur Jacques Gantié, Elle's gourmet queen Delphine GautherinFernandez, and specialist Oscar Caballero. The Prix Zepter International du Jeune Chef focuses on pro-

fessionals under or at the age of 35 who demonstrate creativity, authenticity, dynamism and flair in their cooking. With famed Executive Chef of Paris' Hôtel Prince de Galles and winner of M6’s Top Chef programme Stéphanie Le Quellec as the patron of this new culinary event, and power houses Deutz Champagne and Kaviari also behind the prize, Zepter's latest cultural concept is at the top of the menu for every aspiring chef. Elsa Carpenter

Aromatic and pure, Hembise sells oils produced from local fruits

From now until January, it's all go for the 44-year-old as the most important season of the year takes shape. From Nice to the Var, Hembise welcomes all olive harvests of 60 kilograms and up although if you have less, your oil can be a mix of the fruits. While the tastes may be milder and more refined than those in the past, the final oils are infused with an intensive aroma - one of the reasons celebrity chef Jacques Chibois uses the plant. In the store beside the mill, you can find five variants of oil from olives that have fallen from local trees. The taste? You'll have to try it yourself at Moulin Sainte Anne's tasting sessions from Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6pm.


Three centuries of history in Grasse’s Moulin Sainte Anne

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Perfect timing


rom the Marriott's recently renovated AC Hotel Nice comes a fresh, new concept: a gourmet business lunch with flair and 45 minute timeframe. Targeting exclusively the Riviera businessman and woman, as well as the inter-

national high flyer, the express menu promises a refined cuisine coupled with quick and professional service in a locale that oozes style. As you take a seat in the open plan restaurant that offers views over a zen-infused garden, it is a far cry from the all too familiar dash to a sandwich shop. Head chef Mourad Laghzioui and Director of Marketing for the hotel as well as the Riviera Marriott La

Porte de Monaco Thierry Derrien joined us for the meal and talked us through the menu of the day. Chalked up is the plat du jour - a grilled tuna steak accompanied by a carrot mousseline, flash fried chives and a light fish soup - followed by a café gourmand complete with miniature tiramisu, fluffy white chocolate mousse and panna cotta. The 19 euro set-up proves that you don't need a big budget to impress a client or to simply indulge in a break from your normal routine. Derrien hopes that the inexpensive nature of the lunch, which officially arrived on tables at the start of autumn, will inspire people to try out the restaurant even if they are not guests. "We are

Photography: Cristina Martín Amorín

Vision and flavour that fit into the busiest schedule

The New Business Lunch: Simple style and elegance available Monday through to Friday from noon until 2pm

opening the doors to a famous name and hotel," says Derrien, "no one else on the Promenade is offering such a menu for this price." "I use traditional, local ingredients from our small suppliers and try to revitalise the classics," says Laghzioui. "Colour, texture, taste… My team comes from across the world and you find that in the cooking." Mediterranean influence features heavily among Lagh-

Cannes’ culinary cocoon Proving that you don’t need a Michelin star to please


hanks to the online forums like Tripadvisor and Yelp, everyone is a food critic nowadays. Reading the reviews and

ratings of hundreds of clients can be a useful guide, but how does Cannes' fourth most popular café/restaurant according to Tripadvisor stack up?

Cocoon’s homemade salmon lasagna, blending the healthy with the hearty

Cocoon is a lovely little affordable café in the heart of an expensive and glamourous city, open for breakfast and lunch from Tuesday to Saturday. It is run by an Englishspeaking mother and daughter team who are incredibly friendly. Their motto: 100 per cent homemade, daily moodinspired cuisine. Basically, it ensures that you can go back time and time again without ever having to eat the same thing. And trust me, you'll want to return. On our visit, I tried the salmon lasagna, which was prepared with plenty of vegetables making it feel a lot more healthier than it probably was, what with all that sumptuous melting cheese, creamy sauce and

layers of pasta. My friend had the vegetable filo tart - one of my favourite pastries, but virtually impossible to find this side of the world. Both were delicious and full of flavour, with impressive portion sizes and a nicely dressed side salad. Cocoon is famous for their goat’s cheese on apple tarte tartin salad, and the other dishes I saw reaching the tables looked just as delicious as ours: smoked salmon and chive pasta, sesame tuna steak with basmati rice and vegetables, and spinach flan. In fact, there are a surprisingly good number of vegetarian dishes on the menu and even a vegan choice, which is quite rare for this country. The desserts, most of which

zioui's 14 staff members, but with a resident sushi specialist from the Philippines also among the ranks, the head chef is proud to talk about the range of culinary delights his team can cook up. "French, Italian, North African, Asian, as well as the more American dishes that are synonymous with the Marriott brand, the daily updated menu respects the seasons, but also reflects the international dynamic." Just ten minutes from the

city centre and boasting an excellent proximity to the airport, the hotel is certainly well placed to attract a business clientele - during the week, 80 per cent of guests are business people. Whether you have a client date or need a gourmet pickme-up midway through work, AC Hotel Nice's 'Feel the City' express lunch is a date every business person should have in their diary. Elsa Carpenter

Jacques Gantié’s Restaurant recommendations Jacques Gantié is the author of the only regional restaurant guide, Guide Gantié, which is available in French in hardcopy, and electronically in English. It contains hundreds of great insider tips for eating out.

L’AFFABLE With neither sunlight nor a terrace, the restaurant relies on its solid reputation and contemporary design to make it shine. Known for its classic and quality dishes, L'Affable is found midway between La Croisette and Rue d'Antibes, uniting the are teasingly displayed front of house, include luscious fruit tarts, pastry treats, wickedly good chocolate cake and exotic fruit salad. Prices are also reasonable considering the area too, averaging between 15 and 18 euros for a main, and six euros for dessert. I am not surprised that

downtown area of Cannes. Lunch is a bistro ambience with style while by night, the à la carte menu brings in glamour with an excellent choice of wine. CANNES 5 Rue Lafontaine Tel: 04 93 68 02 09 Cocoon has received 4.5 stars out of 5 from 122 reviews on Tripadvisor. It goes to show that you don't have to be a Michelin star restaurant to satisfy the masses, just offer some honest homecooking and match it with genuine personable service and you have a winner. Cassandra Tanti


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Beauty and the home Seasonal style: dressing up for winter Leaves, temperatures and even the first few flakes of snow have fallen on the Riviera and with the change in seasons, people are donning their winter coats and turning on the heating,wrapping up warm against the oncoming chill. Inside the home, as well as outdoors, there is a perceptible shift between the balmy months of autumn and the brisker days to come as cosiness sets in. But the onslaught of chilly climes doesn't mean you have to sacrifice on style.


he paradox of design influences in the south of France - the golden olden days of rural life in Provence against the more modern, contemporary glamour of Monaco and expensive taste - creates an interesting canvas for interior designers, both professional and do-ityourselfers. The paint box of colours found in daily life here have a definitive impact on the tones, styles and materials of our homes. "The typical palette of the C么te d'Azur and its light is what attracts people to come here, especially for those from northern climates," says interior designer Bjarni Breidfjord. "It continues to have its place in Proven莽al design and architecture and reflects what people think of when they dream about the Riviera. Clients often want the 'cuteness' of this style in their

homes. I try to give it a twist to make it more exciting and break up the conventionality." While colour trends don't necessarily go with the seasons, followers of design fashions will notice that choices are becoming more daring. "After a long period of seemingly dull greys, we are entering a period of bolder colours and shiny metals, "says Breidfjord, managing and creative director of Luxoria. To achieve this approach in your home, without stripping back a

room to its bare bones, bring in embellishments in louder shades to lift and refresh a worn out scheme. "With the arrival of winter, people dress up their homes with thicker curtains, rugs, throws and other practical and decorative items," says Breidfjord. "More glamour, more boldness, more metals and a colour palette that accentuates the home without taking over the space. Think of any colour you make like with an ash overlay." When it comes to style, everyone has their own taste. However, the importance of technology within a home's makeup is becoming more of a common occurrence. From inbuilt and invisible sound systems and air purification devices to gadgets and toys,

"People are very much aware of choices related to technology and what it can bring to their homes." Light, too, remains a vital aspect in creating a harmonious abode. "The use of a fireplace brings warmth and light in a different perspective to summer," says Breidfjord. Endless hours of natural light can be replaced by subtle lighting in darker months so strike up the hearth for an earthly glow or use low lying lamps to replicate burning coals. Luxoria's head designer also points to a growing trend of using vintage pieces in design and also ethnic and environmentally sourced materials. "People are once again interested in antiques and other items that carry charm. There is an obvious trend for mixing vintage luxe into the designs to inject more character into a dwelling, with inspiration from eras such as the 1930s and 50s." Using a fusion of materials in your home can help create a more sensuous element to the area, as well as blending the link between interior and exterior spaces. Whether a stone surface

or the intricate patterns of wood found in nearby forests, local materials are building prominence within designs in the south of France. "I seek most of my suppliers locally," says Breidfjord. "But I've also had worktops produced in the north of France, padded Spanish leather wall tiles and even Italian painters work on ceiling frescos."

Be inspired by the rich diversity around you: luxurious skies at sunset, eternal green landscapes and, of course, the blues of the sea. The days may be getting darker, but there's no need for muted colours as a dash of that famous Riviera sparkle will make your home a place where the heart really is. Elsa Carpenter

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Rocketing property tax Taxe foncière soars by 20 per cent in five years wage at 11.37, according to statistics body INSEE. The tax is decided solely by communes to fund local services and public spending. Some areas have been worse hit than others, but the effect has still been felt in the vast majority of pockets. The Var saw an annual rise of 11.76 per cent in 2012, but the department's five-year average was more than 16 per cent. To the east, the Alpes Maritimes witnessed similar property tax explosions, with a rise of 12.42 per cent for 2012 and almost 24 per cent since 2007. After having described the

increase as "exorbitant", President of the UNPI Jean Perrin said, "The choice to put fiscal pressure on homeowners is a strategic error… The necessary balancing of public accounts must come principally from a reduction in public spending and not from pressures placed on property." In an official statement published along with the report, the UNPI (Union Nationale de la Propriété d’Immobilière) asked communes to freeze rates and for the government to implement a new law prohibiting increases outside of rises in rent and inflation. Elsa Carpenter

E Bertrand TDR


nough is enough says the French National Union for Real Estate, UNPI. Following five years of escalating rates of property tax across the country, the union is calling for communes to freeze their demands and allow the tax to get back in line with inflation in an effort to protect homeowners and household budgets. Since 2007, property tax has risen dramatically, reaching a national average of a 21.17 per cent increase, which is far above the respective rises for inflation at 8.18 per cent, the 8.23 per cent climb for rental prices, and the minimum

Surrounded by rich forests,but still only 10 kilometres from the coast,the authentic and unspoilt nature is what attracts buyers

Property series: Real estate reform Le Plan de la Tour

“A great choice of properties with space and nature too”

Capital gains tax rules change for second and holiday homes


hile the Finance Bill for next year has not yet been released, changes have been put in place for sale of real estate since the beginning of September 2013. The sale of principal residences and plots remain not taxable.


estled within several thousands of hectares of forests and vines, Le Plan de la Tour has all the sites and smells of alpine life yet is only 10 kilometres from the coast. The dolmens, ancient standing stones and arrowheads strewn across the ground indicate the presence of humans here back in the megalithic ages and while the early Plantourians, as the townsfolk are known, may or may not have made wine then, they certainly do now, producing an elixir of reds, whites and rosés. The original hamlet separated from nearby La Garde Freinet in 1790 while the commune reached its present size in 1922. What makes Le Plan de la Tour special is the number of different hamlets 25 in total - scattered across the hillside, explains Françoise Durbano from Agence Immobilière Julien Durbano. In the village itself, which has grown up around the two ancient hamlets of Saint Martin and Emponse, you

uctions applied to reduce the taxable gain are as follows: - Six per cent per year after the first six years of ownership up to and including year 21, - Four per cent for year 22. Social charges Concerning the 15.5 per cent social charges tax, the total exemption remains the same: 30 years of ownership. However the methods of calculation have been altered: - 1.65 per cent per year after the first six years of ownership up to and including year 21, - 1.6 per cent for year 22, - Nice per cent from year 23 to year 30. Short-term discount Finally, for the sales taking place between 1st September 2013 and 31st August 2014, there is an exceptional 25 per cent reduction, which is applied after the reductions for length of ownership. This rate is for both capital gains tax and social charges.

Private individuals can benefit from a full income tax exemption after 22 years of ownership instead of 30 years; however, companies are excluded from this reduction. Capital gains For the 19 per cent tax on the capital gain, the new red-

Jean-Philippe Gioanni Chartered Accountant Cannes

M O R T G A G E Financial Institution

Contact Thomas Nielsen Camille Marne

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G, F DK E, S, N


space and nature," says Durbano. None of the hamlets have shops - everyone goes to Le Plan - and some are more off the beaten track than others, but these appeal to nature lovers. The commune, spread out and bordering several others, attracts a cosmopolitan clientele buying second or holiday homes. Some spend the winter, others come twice a year in spring and autumn, while there are those just here for the summer. "They appreciate and participate fully in village life," says Durbano. Thus the village is never empty in winter as artisans and shopkeepers continue to earn their living, and in summer, although the beach is only a short drive away, you are free of coastal crowds. "People like to spend the day by the sea then in the evening return to the village," she adds, "to the tranquillity, rustic life, small restaurants, eating in the square… c'est le côté convivial." Carolyn Reynier


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find old stone terraced houses (sometimes rendered), apartments and two to three bedroom houses with little gardens in small modern residential blocks that are coowned. A two-bedroom property, depending on its size, will fetch an average of around 215,000 euros. In the Les Olivades residence, close to the village centre, a twobedroom stone mazet with terrace and small garden is on the market at 250,000 euros. You can find village houses needing renovation in both Le Plan de la Tour and in outlying hamlets, and a recently renovated one-bedroom 60sqm mas in the hamlet of Vallaury will cost you 190,000 euros. In the surrounding countryside villas with around 1,000 to 2,000sqm of land sell for roughly 600,000 euros, but you can buy larger properties with more character and land for between 800,000 and 1.2 million euros and up. "The advantage of the commune is that you have a great range of properties and you have



en ok p S

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Countdown The heart of the people

Riviera Business Person of the Year Awards


ominations are in and the judges are at work as the Riviera Business Person of the Year Awards enters into its final phase. On 5th December at a gala evening in the Riviera Marriott La Porte de Monaco, the respective winners of the two categories will be announced and awarded the Crystal Caviar Trophy in the milieu of famous faces from the Côte d'Azur's business empire. Over the last few months, names of nominees who represent companies right along the coast have been flying in. "The response has been unprecedented," says organiser George Kasiliyake, "and the stage is set for what promises to be the best event in the calendar during this festive season." A distinguished panel of judges will now make their

final decision based on a criteria that covers every angle of what it takes to be at the top of the ladder in entrepreneurship and management. According to Dorothy Foster, the chairperson of the panel, the nominees will be judged not only on the financial success of their enterprises, but also aspects such as ecological awareness and community contribution. Tickets are selling fast so early reservations are recommended if you want to take your seat among some of the Riviera's most eminent business personalities. Costing 52 euros for members of the Riviera Business Club or International Club of the Riviera and 60 euros for nonmembers, you can also reserve tables of 10 for 55 euros per head.

Book in advance using one of the following options: 1. Head to the reception of the hotel and book your place, 2. Send a cheque payable to the Riviera Business Club at 6 Avenue Lt. Ecochard, 06200 Nice, 3. Pay by credit card or PayPal online by visiting the events page of the Riviera Business Club website. Please note, reservations should include the names of people attending and a contact telephone number. The closing date for reservations is 28th November unless tickets sell out in advance. For more information, please contact: info@riviera

Maison du Coeur celebrates 20 years in Sophia Antipolis


ach year nearly four million people die from cardiovascular disease. Maison du Coeur - Heart House -has been leading the charge into research and developments in the south of France for two decades and has established itself as a global institution that puts the patient at the heart of innovation. For 20 years, the members of the European Society of Cardiology (ESC) have communed at the Heart House hub in the Sophia Antipolis technology park for conferences, discussions and training. The location was first put forward by a former director, a Frenchman, and in 1993, the international ESC community founded their headquarters in a house of glass in the south of France. From 16 to 150 In the early days there were just 16 people, but now, as the scope of the organisation's activities and prominence grows, there are over 150. The ESC is the organiser of the world's largest conference on cardiology, with nearly 30,000 members from 100 countries across the globe. The calendar is pumped.

Eight annual congresses, advanced training sessions, information collecting activities and the writing of nine esteemed reports on cardiovascular diseases, which are read by up to 150,000 independent specialists each week, are just some of the achievements set down by this global association. "Everything we do is for the patient," says Director of the ESC Isabel Bardinet. "The ESC is not funded and exists solely thanks to the voluntary involvement of cardiologists around the world." Ten more years Since the original founding of the ESC 60 years ago, the life expectancy of a European citizen has been raised by roughly a decade. The organisation estimates that 6.7 of those years are directly due to advancements and developments in treatment and preventative exercises within the cardiovascular sphere. "We provide patients with a better quality of life and not time in hospital," says Bardinet. "Half of all deaths could be prevented if people would do more sport and live healthier." Her aim is to bring this

message to the public and reinforce the notion that lifestyle has a direct effect on health, particularly among people who are at risk of heart problems. "For years we thought that only the elderly were affected. But now it is clear, there is a growing number of young people also suffering."

“Everyone can do something to improve their health,” argues Bardinet. "Of course it is important to enjoy your life,” she says, "but with less and better food and drinks, more sport and without smoking." Aila Stöckmann Anne-Marie Holze

Members celebrate 20 years at their Sophia Antipolis Heart House home

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02 Sat Festival. Quatuors à Cordes en Pays de Provence welcomes Quartet Talich and pianist Jean Claude Pennetier who play classical pieces. 9pm. Palais des Congrès. From 26 euros. Info:

Seillans (J)

Saint Raphaël (K)

06 Wed Show. Monaco International Clubbing show with the NRJ Music Awards. Until 11/11. Grimaldi Forum. From 45 euros. Info: Monaco (P)

07 Thu Show. Salon Palais Gourmand offers a vast selection of ingredients, dishes, techniques and exhibitions from all over France. Until 11/11. All day. Hippodrome Côte d’Azur. 8 euros. Info:

Olivier Neubert

Cagnes sur Mer (M)

Soweto Gospel Choir are set to perform at the Grimaldi Forum on 03/12

Concert. The closing night of the Heures Musicales festival. Pianist François René Duchable performs in the presence of French actor Alain Carre. 8.45pm. Eglise Sainte Marie Madeleine. Free. Info: Biot (M)

08 Fri Theatre. Oscar Wilde comes to Antibes with a performance of the iconic ‘A Picture of

Eye on film with James Luxford INSIDE LLEWYN DAVIS (6TH NOVEMBER) The Coen Brothers delve into the world of the 1960's New York folk scene, following the title character, a fictional musician played by Oscar Isaac, as he attempts to earn a living from his passion. Soulful, moving and devilishly funny, an incredible cast which includes Carey Mulligan, Justin Timberlake and Coens regular John Goodman make for sumptuous viewing. "Inside Llewyn Davis" ranks alongside the best of the Brothers' work and stakes a claim for one of the best films of the year. STAR RATING: ***** ESCAPE PLAN (13TH NOVEMBER) Sylvester Stallone takes the lead as a man whose job it is to break out of prisons by exploiting their weaknesses, only to be set up and trapped inside a complex, cavernous prison nicknamed 'The Tomb'. Arnold Schwarzenegger co-stars as a fellow inmate in what is seemingly

a dream match-up for 1980's action movie fans. However, the reality is far from the fantasy, as a poor plot and progressively ludicrous action can't be papered over by the charisma of the stars. STAR RATING: ** BATTLE OF THE YEAR (13TH NOVEMBER) ‘Lost’ actor Josh Holloway plays a basketball coach who takes a misfit band of street dancers (including pop starturned-actor Chris Brown), and applies his coaching methods to dance in order to win a championship. Generic and unappealing, the film follows the most tried and true conventions of the 'Dance Movie' genre, forgetting to add anything new. STAR RATING: ** CAPTAIN PHILLIPS (20TH NOVEMBER) Tom Hanks is back on awardwinning form in the title role of director Paul Greengrass' drama, based on the true story of the captain of a ship

whose boat is boarded by Somali pirates. An incredibly well made, if somewhat worthy film, the role gives Hanks a chance to return to the 'everyman' type of performances that made him such a success in the 90's and early 2000's. While it has its flaws, the skills of both director and star combine elegantly to make an accomplished film. STAR RATING: ****

ORIGINAL VERSIONS Antibes - Le Casino Cannes - Les Arcades, Studio 13 Le Cannet - Le Cannet Toiles Mandelieu-La-Napoule - Salle Léonard de Vinci Nice - Cinéma Mercury, Cinéma Rialto, Cinémathèque, Pathé-Masséna Valbonne - Les Visiteurs du Soir Draguignan - Eldorado 3, 4 & 5 Fréjus - Cinéma Le Vox Montauroux - Maison Pour Tous Ste-Maxime - Le Pagnol Toulon - Cinéma Le Royal, Pathé Liberté Monaco - Cinema Sporting

Dorian Gray. In support of children in Cambodia. Until 09/11. 8pm. La Timonerie. 20 euros. Info: 04 93 61 01 71 Antibes (M)

Festival. At the New Jazz Festival, the Belmondo family will pay tribute to the jazz men who inspired their work all over the years. 8.30pm. Salle Grappelli Cedac. From 17 euros. Info: Nice (N)

09 Sat Festival. Riff Cohen and Mayra Andrade perfom at the New Jazz Festival. 8.30pm. Théâtre Lino Ventura. From 17 euros. Info: Nice (N)

10 Sun Sport. The Alpes Maritimes marathon from Nice to the Croisette in Cannes. 8am. Promenade des Anglais. Sign up fee 70 euros. Info: Nice (N) Concert. Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes perform with Parisian Loïc Mallié. 4.30pm. Eglise Notre Dame de Bon Voyage. Free. Info: Cannes (L) 15 Fri Show. Salon Saveurs & Terroirs brings you delicious local and regional produce. Until 17/11. All day. Centre Expo Congrès. 5 euros. Info:

Songstress Jane Birkin will play a set at the Anthéa Théâtre in Antibes on 29/11. Tickets start at 18 euros and can be bought from the theatre

and specialities as well as haute cuisine serving. Until 25/11. All day. Espace Fontvieille. 5 euros. Info: Monaco (P) Festival. Titi Robin performs at the New Jazz Festival, bringing together many genres ranging from Mediterranean and Spanish melodies to Oriental music. 8.30pm. Salle Grappelli Cedac. From 17 euros. Info: Nice (N)

23 Sat Show. Salon du Chocolat comes to the Riviera following a whistlestop tour of some of the most prestigious cities

worldwide. Until 25/11. All day. Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. 9 euros. Info: Cannes (L)

Dance. Come along and enjoy a lively flamenco show by Chilean artist Juan Aguirre called Asi Fue, Asi Sera. 8.30pm. Théâtre Lino Ventura. From 17 euros. Info: Nice (N)

24 Sun Concert. It’s L’Heure d’Orgue with Les Aims de l’Orgue de Cannes and Rémi Farrugia. 4.30pm. Eglise Notre Dame de Bon Voyage. Free. Info: Cannes (L)

Mandelieu (K)

Show. Salon du Chocolat & Saveurs d’Exception with stalls, shows, displays and interactive events. Until 17/11. All day. Promenade des Anglais. 5 euros. Info: Nice (N)

16 Sat Festival. John Scofield will give a unique concert at the New Jazz Festival. 8.30pm. Salle Grappelli Cedac. From 17 euros. Info: Nice (N) 17 Sun Concert. It’s L’Heure d’Orgue with Les Amis de l’Orgue de Cannes, with Laurent-Cyprien Giraud. 4.30pm. Eglise Notre Dame de Bon Voyage. Free. Info: Cannes (L)

22 Fri Show. Salon Monte Carlo Gastronomie comes to the Principality. Worldwide tastes

Anna Webber

01 Fri Nov Festival. The Quatuors à Cordes en Pays de Provence welcomes Quartet Jerusalem who will perform the works of Beethoven, Janacek and Dvorak. 9pm. Eglise de Seillans. From 23 euros. Info:

Jon Regen will woo the crowd at Monaco’s Hôtel de Paris on 26/11. Make sure to be there early as places are set to fill up quickly

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25 Mon Concert. English musician Nicola Benedetti, violin, plays with Eric la Sage, piano. Expect pieces from Brahms and Beethoven. 8.30pm. Théâtre de Jeu de Paume. 8 euros. Info: 04 42 99 12 00 Aix en Provence (B)

27 Wed Ballet. The Moscow Theatre Ballet returns to the Riviera for two performances of their Romeo and Juliette show. 3pm and 8pm. Acropolis. From 39 euros. Info: Nice (N)

Until 11/11 Art exhibition. Painting and philosophy come together at Les Aventures de la Vérité exhibition. Curator BernardHenri Lévy juxtaposes new and old, French and foreign. Fondation Maeght. Info: Saint Paul de Vence (M)

Nice (N)

30 Sat Show. The ninth Salon du Jouet». All day. Maison de Garéoult. Free. Info: 04 94 72 87 08 Garéoult (E) Festival. Olive festival with local products and tasting. All day. Until 01/12. Place du Thouron. Info: 06 06 64 19 09 Seillans (J)

Dance. Discover ‘Carmen’, with music from Opéra National de Bordeaux. 8pm. Acropolis. From 36 euros. Info: Nice (N) Concert. Vanessa Paradis performs her ‘Love Songs’ hits. 8.30pm. Palais des Festivals. From 10 euros. Info: Cannes (L)

01 Fri Nov Sport. The Superbowl of Supercross. 8pm. Fiera di Genova. From 32 euros. Info: Genoa (N) Exhibition. 'Abissi', an interactive exhibition about the deep. All day. Genova Science Center. 7 euros. Info: Genoa (N)

Until 15/01/14 Ceramic exhibition. Five original pottery pieces by Picasso are on temporary loan from the Museum of Ceramics in Barcelona. Spanning themes of bullfighting, animals and portraits, this a complex yet stunning collection of ceramics, with vases, dinner sets and sculptures. Musée Picasso. Info:

02 Sat Market. Quaint market selling antiques of all genres. All day. Old town. Free

Antibes (M)

06 Wed Tour. Guided tour on occasion of the 500th anniversary of the death of Pope Julius II. 4pm. Palazzo Pozzobonelli Savona (I)

11 Mon Concert. Giovine Orchestra chamber concert by M. Quarta on violin and E. Arciuli on piano. 8.30pm. Teatro Carlo Felice Genoa (N) Concert. 'Giulio II : Music, art, storytelling', with works from the late Renaissance. 9pm. Oratorio San Dalmazio Savona (I)

28 Thu Festival. It’s a Bollywood extravaganza with all the sights and sounds of India. 8pm. Acropolis. From 33 euros. Info: nice-acro Nice (N) 29 Fri Sport. The 39th International Fight Championship with more than 200 participants from around the world, both men and women. Until 30/11. All day. Sallye Leyrit. Free. Info:

Nature exhibition. Par monts et par vaux - Biodiversité des Alpes-Maritimes is an exploration of the rich natural history of the department. Follow the coast, rivers, valleys and mountains of the Alpe Maritimes. Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle. Info: Nice (N)

Until 3rd November, a collection of photographs by Serge Streibel and paintings from Flocy Abguillerm will be displayed at the Office du Tourisme in Cannes. Opening hours are 10am until 7pm. Info: 06 60 21 31 04

From 03/10 until 29/11 Sculpture exhibition. Curvaceous sculptures made of aluminium and brass from David Rodriguez Caballero. Marlborough Gallery of Modern Art. Info: 377 97 70 25 50 Monaco (P)

Until 19/01/2014 Photography exhibition. Vivre pour Voir from photo journalist Marie-Laure de Decker, with pictures from places such as Vietnam and South Africa, as well as a collection of self portraits. with a focus on humans. Théâtre de la Photographie et de l'Image. Info: 04 97 13 42 20 Nice (N)

Until 31/12 Tour. Guided tours of the catacombs. Also explore the intricate fish ponds and ancient aqueducts. Wednesdays from 2pm until 3.30pm. Museé Archéologique. Info: 04 94 52 15 78

Open ended Nature exhibition. Sharks: a thrilling experience continues at Monaco’s world-famous aquarium. Get up close and personal with the giants of the sea and unravel their complicated tale in this unique place. Oceanographic Museum. Info:

Fréjus (J)

Monaco (P)

Laigueglia (F)

Concert. Chamber concert for the Protestant Reformation Church. 5pm. Corso Garibaldi Sanremo (B)

04 Mon Concert. Giovine Orchestra perform their classical pieces. 8.30pm. Teatro Carlo Felice Genova Genoa (N)

07 Thu Tour. Explore the ancient pathways of the Aurelia Road. Reservations obligatory. 8.30am. Torre Pentagonale. Info: 01 82 98 443 Toano (F) 08 Fri Concert. 'Hommage e Paganini' concert. Join in with the locals at this wonderufl concert. 8.30pm. Palazzo Rosso Genoa (N) Sat 09 Opera. 'La Serva Madonna' by Pergolesi and 'Il maestro di cappella' by Cimarosa. 9pm. Teatro Chiabrera Savona (I)

Our events calendar is updated daily! To ensure you don’t miss any of the exciting events happening on the Riviera this month, scan the QR Code on the left and be directed instantly to our website. It’s that easy!

13 Wed Opera. 'Rigoletto'. Also on 17/11 and 24/11. 8.30pm. Teatro Carlo Felice. Info: Genoa (N) 15 Fri Festival. Indulge in all things olive at the annual OliOliva festival. It’s a celebration of the historical connection Imperia has wih its native fruits. Until 17/11. All day. Old town. Free Imperia (E)

23 Sat Trade show. ‘Sanremo Sposi’, where you can find everything about wedding. Until 24/11. 211pm. Palafiori. Free. Info: San Remo (B)

24 Sun Tour. Explore Dolceacqua. 3pm. Meet at the IAT-office. Info: 0184 351183 Dolceacqua (A)

29 Fri Concert. Music for peace, a concert of solidarity for Palestine. All day. Molo Vado Ligure (K)

17 Sun Market. Antiques and hand made crafts. All day. Soleri, Piazza Cavour, Viale delle Rimembranze Taggia (C) Music. An evening with piano music by Gabor Farkas. 9pm. Teatro Chiabrera Savona (I) 21 Thu Festival. The Jubilmusic. Festival is celebration of Christian religious music. Great atmosphere and spirit. Until 24/11. Teatro Ariston Sanremo (B)

Learn to ‘Draw Water and Other Things’ with Linda Nissen Samuels. Get your hands on a copy by heading online to our competition page

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THE RIVIERA TIMES is looking for motivated editorial and sales interns, with placements of two months to one year available. Duties include writing news stories for the website and monthly news-paper. Applicants must be enrolled on a university course. Excellent writing skills are vital, experience in journalism is preferable, and a strong level of French: writing, reading, listening, speaking. Interested students should please send a cover letter, C.V. and examples of their writing to:

FOR SALE SPLENDID ISOLATION on the frontier between the Var and the Alpes Maritimes with rivers, waterfalls, olive groves and Roman ruins. 17th century stone farmhouse with authentic features. 4 bedrooms in main house, 2 bedrooms in guest house. Fully furnished. Closest main town is Fayence. Excellent buy to rent opportunity (average rental 4,000 euros). 1,160,000 euros. Contact: VAR VILLA in beautiful Provence village. One hour from Nice. Spectacular views, with three bedrooms, lounge, dining area, bathroom, shower room, swimming pool, covered terrace, adjoining apartment. 399,000 euros. Contact Richard Hazelden: +44 (0)1484 684224





NICE. Studio 3-beds for holidays, Royal Luxembourg Palace with rooftop swimming pools next to Palais Mediterranee on Prom. For price/info/pics e-mail: CANNES. Studio for holidays, Eden Beach residence 3+1 beds, Plage du Midi Croix de Garde near the sea, swimming pool park. For price/info/pics e-mail: SARDINIA, Nord Costa Paradiso Italy. Studio 3-beds with terrace, very close to sea. Private quiet location, red rocks, coves and sandy beach, wonderful Mediterranean vegetation, 30km from Santa Teresa Castel Sardo.For price/info/pics e.mail:


JOBS OFFERED TEST TELEPHONE lines in Monaco. Applicant must live in Monaco, have landline, internet connection, email. Also must be reliable and have knowledge of Excel. Immediate start. Send resume to:


PERSONAL WELL-OFF BUSINESSMAN, 69 yrs old, 178 cm, with nice house on French Riviera, seeks cheerful, cultural, warm-hearted woman to share his interests such as golf, travelling. A cosy home and good wine and food are waiting.He's a positive character, non-smoking. Grown-up son with own family. Not looking for adventures, but a faithful relationship. Contact: RADIANT, ELEGANT, beautiful, fit, and accomplished woman 39 yrs old, seeks a world-class partner - 47-60 yrs old in every sense of the word. Contact: BEAUTIFUL, STRONG black American British lady looking for a protective, healthy relationship with a kind, loving man. Contact:

FULLY RENOVATED apartment, located in Nice west, in a quiet gated residence with swimming pool; 114m2, 3 bedrooms 2 baths including 1 master suite with a 8m2 terrace and bath, fully equipped kitchen New, 2nd terrace 20M2 facing south in front of living room, 1 garage + 1 private parking space underground, Excellent transport connections , public transport just in front of the residence. The apartment can be sold completely furnished, all is new. For investors, can be rented on week basis. Price 620 000 euros. For more information or visits call +33 (0)6 86 55 38 51 LARGE VILLA 25 minutes from Monaco with sea view, pool and excellent access. 595,000 euros. Contact: montecarlo

GORGEOUS FEMALE, 168cm/56kg, blonde hair/green eyes, 45yo/athletic/non-smoker. ISO Monegasque gentleman 50+ for marriage. Email w/photo

MEETINGS with Adonis, 32, 1.85 m. Attractive Single Ladies can contact :

TRI-LINGUAL trained teacher with international experience offers French and German classes, translations and child care. Looking for students. Contact: +33 (0)6 86 62 18 60 LOOKING FOR fulltime permanent challenging position. Bright, enthusiastic, reliable, honest, achiever. Languages: fluent English, French, Polish, German and some Russian. Experience in marketing, interpreting, project management and as a representative. Seven+ years experience at HSBC. Also AN English teacher. Tel: 0788390580 PERSONAL ASSISTANT seeks fulltime or part time job in Monaco. Languages: fluent English, French and German. Tel.: +33 (0)6 83 06 85 94 LOOKING FOR Monaco studio to rent directly from owner. Fax/Tel. +41 86 079 400 4995 PRIVATE PA (ENGLISH/FRENCH) Mature, (graduate) private PA, mother tongue English with over 7 years experience working with a High Net worth family in London, seeks similar employment in Monaco/Southern France. Excellent references. Diploma in FrenchEnglish interpreting and MBA-level business qualification. Info: PERSONAL ASSISTANT seeks full-time or part time job in Monaco. Languages: fluent English, French and German. Tél.: +33 683 0685 94 THERAPEUTIC MASSAGES from Monaco-based qualified pharmacist Mrs S. Tel: +377 6 43 91 61 98

NICE Relais H Aéroport 1 et 2 FNAC 30 avenue Jean Médecin MONACO Maison de la Presse de Monaco 1bis rue Grimaldi SAINT-TROPEZ Librairie du Port 11 rue des Commerçants

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Life support Your survival guide to living in France Dear Andy, I am an American who has been living in Germany since the 90s, with a permanent residence permit, and I have a house in Nice. For a while, I have been making plans to move everything to France, including my small business. Will I be able to exchange my German residence card for a French one under European Law? Moving from Munich Dear Moving, The simple answer is ‘No’. The French authorities will not exchange foreign rights for French rights. This is because you are not an EU citizen, but a permanent resident. If you had applied for and obtained German citizenship, you would be covered under the European Internal Market Mechanism of free movement of goods, capital, services and people. Having said this you will rarely have to start from scratch. What you do benefit from is internal movement within the Schengen Zone, of which both Germany and France

are a part. However, the fact that you own assets in France does not give you the rights to live and work in France. Having said that, as a German Permanent Resident, if your permit says European Community (EC or CE) on it, this means that you will not have to go through a foreign consulate to get a pre-entry visa. You can apply directly to the Prefecture in the area of your intended residence. As you have a business already, you may use its history as part of a business plan, which the prefecture will consider as part of the application process. In general, to establish your business in France you have to show that it is viable in the French market. If your business plan is viewed positively, you may be eligible for a non-salaried activity resident's permit, or Carte de Séjour. If this is not the case you may apply for a long stay visitor's permit, although you will not be allowed to work. Other options will depend on your skills, your salary if you are employed and also members of your family,

especially if they are citizens of the European Community. In the majority of cases, if you are issued a Carte de Séjour of any type it will be a one year card which will have to be renewed every year. After five years you may ask for a 10 year permit or permanent residency. Before moving, it is advisable to really look in to all the changes that you will experience, including personal taxation, social security contributions/benefits, as well as lifestyle, and compare those to what you have in Germany. You should definitely consider the fact that you have permanent leave to stay and work in Germany. At Mon Ami Andy, we love the French way of life and would recommend it to anyone. But, you must keep in mind that the French system is very different to what you are used to in America or Germany. Happy moving! Andrew Denison, Mon Ami Andy Rue Lascaris, Nice Port Tel: 04 83 50 84 78

Relaxing in the chic library-style foyer of the new AC Hotel Marriott Nice

Assistant editor Elsa Carpenter tried out the new business lunch menu at the Marriott’s AC Hotel Nice with Director of Sales and Marketing for the hotel and the Riviera Marriott La Porte de Monaco Thierry Derrien and head chef Mourad Laghzioui

Assistant editor Elsa Carpenter in front of Monaco’s Casino, which was illuminated in pink throughout the month of October in support of the fight against breast cancer

Publishing Director Petra Hall

The International Club had a very busy October with two annual events, both of which were outstanding successes as always: The Last Romance by the Sandyford Little Theatre Company from Ireland playing to a sell out audience, and the Golf Day, which was a perfect golfing and social outing. Our main event this month will be our annual outing to Serravalle in Italy on Saturday 23rd November for a winter shopping spree! Serravalle is the biggest designer outlet in Europe, but its beautiful Ligurian architectural style is another reason to pay it a visit. Then there is the setting, nestled in the heart of the stunning Piemonte region between Milan and Genoa. Inside you'll find fabulous fashion, homeware and technology

at bargain prices that are simply impossible to refuse. Find your favourite iconic designer brands including Prada, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, La Perla, Etro, Tommy Hilfiger, Pal Zileri, Lacoste, Cerrutti 1881, Versace and The Nike Factory Store to name just a few available, some at up to 70 per cent off! Among the other events this month will be our usual Golf Outing, the last for the year at the La Provencal Golf Club in Biot. We join our friends at the Riviera Business Club for the Business Person of the Year Awards in December. See page 19 for information. +33 (0)4 93 72 11 89 06 21 20 60 10

Editor Cassandra Tanti

Assistant Editor Elsa Carpenter Contributors Julian Nundy, Carolyn Reynier, Aila Stöckmann, Peter Bausch, Andrew Denison, Claire Lathbury, Anne-Marie Holze, Katharina Ahlers, Alfred Thum

Art director Konny Strauss

Distribution Superyacht Distribution Manuscripts and photos will not be returned unless previously agreed. Articles do not represent the opinion of the Editor. The publishing house is not responsible for the correct content of ads. We are unable to consider unsolicited material and cannot return it.

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RT november 2013  

The English-language newspaper for the French - Italian Riviera & Monaco

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