FASAN FASAN: Scottish Gaelic for FASHION Style knows no language barriers RGU Fashion Management Magazine 13th Edition


GAME ON THE WINNER TAKES IT ALL

Front cover outfit Corset: Boohoo Shorts: Topshop Hat: Amazon Bag & Glasses: Shein Boots:Trainers:Shorts:Top:PrettyLittleThingMissyEmpireMissguidedBalenciaga 3

Zara Bag & Glasses: Shein Heels: ASOS 4
Playsuit:

Dress: MissyHeels:EmpireEGO Sunglasses: PrettyLittleThing 5

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Photographers: Angus McLennan & Innes Gregory Styling: Minnie Buchan, Alix Gray & Cara Lewis Model: Meg Mullen

CONTENTS GrayAlixcover:FrontDamSophiawording:&designTextGregoryInnes&McLennanAngusPhotographers:LewisCara&GrayAlixBuchan,MinnieStyling:MullenMegModel: 1 8 16 22 28 33 38 42 44 48 54 62 64 66 70 74 79 82 88 94 97 100 103 108 112 118 124 130 136 144 150 156 158 164 170 174 Game On - the winner takes it all A Timeless Piece - Shetland knitwear Delicate MinimalistAchromaticKnitwearEssentials-theperfect staple wardrobe Suit Up & Drive A Nod to the Noughties Retro Grunge Back to the Remastered90s-90s fashion in the city ExpressAdolescenceyour Individuality School Days Revisited Retro Youth Life is Just a Game Positive - nothing wrong with natural Gone InerasableCloset,Thriftin’ShopIt.-reuse forgotten clothes A Modern Fairytale The Floral Edit Soul Connection Fur is Back The Consumer- impact of fast fashion Modern-Day Mermaids Woke Up in 2022 Lounge Up Lockdown Don’t Be Afraid of Being a Beginner Suited & Booted Le Garçon - Paris chicest boys Subvert - reject tradition SpectacularUrban’sMonochromaticNewEdge-street style & sunnies More than a Woman Eternal Elegance Fashion Shoots 14 15 21 27 37 52 60 61 78 104 106 117 133 134 140 142 Cosy TheStreetAllCosyComfortCardigans&StyleChicBlackEverythingStyleViewfromBehind the Decks Denim Season Denim to Die for! This is so 70s! Reduce, Reuse, Recycle Confessions of a Consumerist Into APowerBlue?MoverDayInTheLife of a Small Business Owner Shattering the Satin Ceiling An Interview with Yolanda Sacristán Product Pages & Articles Welcome to FASAN, the RGU Fashion Management magazine. This is brought to you by the Stage 2 students and many wonderful contributors who give up much of their time to model, photograph and share their experience & expertise. A special mention goes to Steve Smith and the photography students from NESCOL who support this endeavour every year - many, many thanks. Happy reading. Fiona Blunsdon, editor For more information about the magazine, please email: f.j.blunsdon@rgu.ac.uk


Photographer: Sophie Whitehead Instagram: @sophsunshinephoto Stylist: Leyna Johnston Fairisle Knitwear kindly provided by Jamiesons Knitwear
Shown through three generations is a statement piece for any Shetlander, young or old.
A TimelessPiece

EileenModelsMasson
(first generation)
Jolene
Masson (second generation) Leyna Johnston (third generation) Cardigan, Green: Jamiesons £89.00 Cardigan, Pink: Jamiesons £89.00 10


11
Jeans, Dark Blue: New Look £29.99

Jeans, Black: Topshop £36.00
Vee Neck Vest, Blue: Jamiesons £61.00
LeynaModelsJohnston (third generation) Shaina Douglas (third generation)
Sweater Vest, Cream: Jamiesons £N/A Polo Top, Cream: Collusion £10.00
IanModelsCummings (first generation) Niamh Hall (second generation) Crew Neck Sweater, Red: Jamiesons £149.00 Crew Neck Sweater, Green: Jamiesons £149.00 Jeans, Black: NastyGal £21.00 Trousers, Black: Model’s own 12

Lori Johnston (third generation)
Crew Neck Yoke Sweater, Brown: Jamiesons £137.00 Crew Neck Yoke Sweater, Green: Jamiesons £137.00 Jeans, Dark Blue: New Look £29.99 Jeans, Light Blue: New Look £29.99


LeynaModelsJohnston (third generation)

Tartan muted pastel blue cardigan and beige skirt combo is matched with cream coordinated accessories to pull the outfit together. Pair with tights and a thermal inner layer added warmth if needed.
cute and comfy looks for chilly weather cosy cardigans

This
Cosy cardigans are a classic staple for autumn and winter wardrobes!



This statement tartan cardigan is layered over a simple high neck top for a seasonal neckline and the flared trousers create a fun silhouette. Tweed knit Primarktop£10 TweedPrimarkcardigan£13 FatFaceJeans£55 Cropped cardigan Mango from£29.99Freemans Zebra bag River Island £25 Pleated £10Primarkskirt Contrast sole boots £115Office Brown bag Mango from Freemans £19.99 £59.50BonasOlivertrousersCordTartancardiganBarbour£99.95£69OfficeLoafers Sleeveless high neck top £6TU Track sole £95Officeboots Pink £39Kaleidoscopebag
This tweed set is paired with wide leg jeans and chunky boots for a more casual look. A bright pink bag has been added for a pop of colour and to ensure you stand out from the autumnal scenery.

The knit material is perfect for transitional weather or layering in the colder months. There’s an endless variety of colours, patterns, lengths and textures available to choose from to suit your style. Take inspiration from these looks and recreate them with your favourite
Created by Sophia Dam
14
for




Cropped




Three ways to style
Matching set

15
Comfort & Style NewLook£25.99 Seol+Gold£22.95 £17.99LookNew






Page by Sofia Kent

LEAH
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DELICACYDELICATEKNITWEAR:BRINGINGCLASSICSTAPLESINTOTHENOW

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KUBA WALASEK
STYLED BY HANNAH GAULD HANNAH GAULD, McFARLANE
MODELS:
JEWELLERY: PANDORA, TIFFANY ZARA
JEANS: BOOTS:ZARAASOS 17

JUMPER:

JUMPER: ZARA JEANS: TROUSERS:JUMPER:BOOTS:ZARAASOSZARAHOUSE OF CB BOOTS: DR. MARTENS 18


TOP: JEANS:JUMPER:ZARANEXTMOTEL ROCKS

20

JUMPER: ZARA JEANS: ZARA

Cosy ChicEverything you need for those colder days £55Monsoon Dune London £60 £59Monsoon LondonDune £65 SonderStudio£49 Hope Fashion£45F&F£25OliverBonas£65 HopeFashion£85 SonderStudio£39 FF&F£25atFace£29.50 ALINE£635 Designed by Amy Park Primark £10 RiverIsland£160
















Flannel: Primark £12

Jeans: New Look £29.99
Shoe: Converse Trainer £52
T-Shirt: Primark £8
Achromatic Essentials
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Stylists: Nicole Urquhart and Hayley Robson Photographer: Ellie Coleman Models: Abi Urquhart and Emma Wilson
Left T-Shirt: H&M £6.99 Cable Knit Vest: PrettyLittleThing £12 Jeans: PrettyLittleThing £30 Shoes: ConverseRight£72 T-shirt: Primark £5 Cable Knit Vest: Primark £12 Jeans: New Look £29.99 Shoes: Converse £52 23


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Jeans: New Look £29.99 Shoes: Converse £52

Top: Primark £8

Blazer: H&M £29.99 Dress: PrettyLittleThing £16 Shoe: Converse £72 25


Sweater Vest: H&M £14.99 Jeans: H&M £17.99 Trainers: Puma £70 26


ALL BLACK EVERYTHING dress it down dress it up £18George FatFace £25 Hope Fashion £150 Cult Furniture £199 £12Primark Oliver Bonas £150 Dune LondonDesigned£35 by Niamh Rennie £8Primark A £480LINE Dune London £85 Primark£8 Oliver £19.50Bonas TK Maxx £24.99 £16George 27
















MINIMALIST
Model Wears:
Dress: LeatherBershkaJacket: Primark Bag: Shoes:PrimarkConverse

Less is more when creating the perfect staple wardrobe. Keeping it neutral is key to a chic timeless look.
Model:
Caitlin Stylists:Photographer:BrackettJayeSmithJayeSmithandCaitlin Brackett
Model Wears: Top: Jewellery:Sunglasses:Shoes:Blazer:Shorts:BoohooBoohooPrimarkNikeBoohooModel’sown 29




Top: Jewellery:Shoes:Phone:Bag:Hoodie:Shorts:BoohooBoohooPrimarkPrimarkAppleNikeModel’s Own 30



Model Wears:

Model Wears: Top: Shoes:Trousers:Cardigan:BoohooBoohooTopshopConverse 31

Model Wears: Jacket: Shoes:Joggers:Hoodie:NextPrimarkPrimarkPrettyLittleThing 32

SUIT UP & DRIVE DRESSING SMART HAS NEVER BEEN COOLER PHOTOGRAPHY&STYLING BIRNIEISSY MODEL&MAKEUPHAIR, SUNGLASSESSMITHEVE - ASOS, BLAZER - MISSY EMPIRE, TROUSERS - PRETTYLITTLETHING, SHOES - ASOS

BLAZER - TOPSHOP, SHIRT & GLOVES - PRETTYLITTLETHING, SKIRT - (VINTAGE) NEXT, SOCKS, RING, SHOES & SUNGLASSES - ASOS 34

35

36


EARRINGS - STEVE MADDEN, DRESS - PRETTYLITTLETHING, BLAZER - I SAW IT FIRST

£195BootsLondonDUNE COMBINE A KNEE-HIGH BOOT WITH AN OVERSIZED BLAZER FOR A CHIC ‘CITY-GIRL’ LOOK PrettyLittleThing Bodysuit £15 River Island Studio Blazer £75 New Look Crop£29.99Blazer River ShortsIsland£30 TK MaxxDressPrettyLittleThingBomber£16.99£28MichelleDenim Keegan Very£40TrousersLeatherPrettyLittleThing£45 RiverIslandBlazer£75 STREET STYLEFASHION 2022River Island Bag £34 Jacquard Crop TK Maxx £249.99 River StudioIslandJeans£48 ADD PERFECTTHEPOPOFCOLOUR River Island Heels£65






Created by Yasmin Sutherland












Styled and directed by Niamh Rennie

Photographed by Maria Muruaga Modelled by Taylor Crockford
a noughtiestonodthe The decade whose fashion is in full resurgance!
Tracksuit: ASOS £44 Top: Zara £11.99 Sunglasses: Primark £4 39

Hat: TK Maxx £7.99


Bag: ASOS £22 Earrings: New Look £5 Sunglasses: Shein £2


Jacket-All Boots-Dr.Skirt-SheinBelt-PrettyLittleThingTop-PrettyLittleThingSaintsMartens
retro grunge

42

Jacket-All Boots-Dr.Leggings-HollisterTop-PrettyLittleThingShirt-PrettyLittleThingBoots-Dr.Trousers-TopshopTop-PrettyLittleThingSaintsMartensMartens


Back to the 90s
44
Jemima Jacket:Top:Sunglasses:wearsDepopH&MEtsy

Cyril Jumper:Chain:Durag:wearsAmazonboohooMANNext



Jemima wears Hoodie: Earrings:Necklace:H&MPrettyLittleThingPrimark
45
Jemima wears Top: Sunglasses:Jeans:H&MZara Depop
46
Cyril Bucketwearshat: boohooMAN
Chain: Jumper:boohooMANNext


Jemima wears Bonnet: Amazon
47
Shorts: H&M
White top: H&M
Photographed by Johnathan Silu Styled and Directed by Poppy Katarat Modelled by Jemima Amanize (left) and Cyril Adizue (right)

Cyril Socks:Shorts:WhiteDurag:wearsAmazontop:NextJDSportsPuma
Socks: JD Accessories:SportsPrettyLittleThing
Location: Marischal Square, Aberdeen Models: Vaila Wright, Rheanna Duffus Photographers: Dorota Placzkiewicz, Daniel Geddes Stylists: Julie Winter, Rheanna Duffus remasteredbringing90sfashionbackintothecity 48

Jumper: Primark Knit Vest: Cameo Rose Jeans: Hollister 49

Bodysuit: Daisy Street Leather jacket: Only Skirt: Boots:Tights:MangoPrimarkDr.Martens 50

T-shirt: Reserved Jacket: Threadbare Jeans: Bershka Boots: Dr. Martens 51

Molly said, “In the same way as taking time to craft a mix, I put a lot of effort into wearing an outfit that’s appropriate and won’t overshadow the mix”.
of the best DJs in Aberdeen who are continuing to create space for all gender expressions behind the decks. I sat down with them, to discuss style, music, nightlife culture in Aberdeen and their identities as DJs.
I started by asking, who are you and what is your personal music style as a DJ?
I sat down with four of the best DJs in Aberdeen to discuss style,music and the nightlife culture in Aberdeen.
Anna Barrie is a regular resident DJ at RARE, she started off “I’m Anna Barrie, I have kind of not been playing for that long. So, I am kind of still exploring what style of sound I like. Now though, I really like that deep kind of house music. I get inspired a lot by other people and listening to what others are playing.”
Bohemia, Molly Black or (ZEMA) added, “I feel like I am on like an eternal quest for music to be honest. I love all music really but mainly like bass, garage, stuff like that.”
Written by Jack Dinnie
Helena adds, “It’s really good for
How has your experience of the DJ scene in Aberdeen been?
@goingnowhere____CoatesBernalRafaelCredit:Photo
Helena Mrázková or (Kopi O), a resident DJ at Bohemia added: “I consider myself to be a multi-genre DJ. I’m influenced by a lot of techno and electro.”
Hazel agreed with this, adding, “I remember when clubs opened up, I was wearing this eyeliner that glows in the dark and so many people came up to me saying, “Aw the music was so good! I love your eyeliner!” Stuff like that, it definitely seems that it makes people more receptive to what you’re playing.”
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I asked the group, do you find Fashion relates to your identity as a DJ?
“A lot of times, people won’t be thinking whether you’re playing well or not, they will be thinking ‘aw do you look good or not?’”
Anna started off by saying “you sweat a lot when you’re playing, so I always try and find something that is going to be appropriate. I love to wear cool, staple pieces like my dungarees that just comfortabledoBarrie’,‘quintessentialscreambutIwanttofeelwhenIamplaying”
Anna spoke about how “I definitely wear things that make me feel confident when I’m playing, it just makes a more engaging experience for me and the crowd.”
THE VIEW FROM BEHIND THE DECKS
From left: Helena Mrázková, Hazel Manangazira, Molly Black and Anna Barrie
Hazel Manangazira or Elanda (her stage name) is a resident DJ at Bohemia, she added: “When I started out, I played a lot of Afro Tech kind of stuff, but I am still kind of new to all this, so I am still discovering what I like as a DJ. Playing with other people has influenced my style a lot. I really like the bassy kind of drum
Hazel had this to say, “I started out kind of as someone who went out and enjoyed the music and then I kind of started getting opportunities to play. It’s been interesting, recently. There’s like this kind of rise of us gals playing, and everyone can enjoy that. But I guess there is always challenges that come with being a female DJ. I even hate the term female DJ, like just DJ is fine.” The others agreed.
collectives like Fierce and Aphrodite. Then after a while, RARE and Bohemia reached out to me, and it’s like just amazing how many people you meet.”
Club nights like Fierce beIinclusivityforsetNightAphroditeCollective,andAllPassionhavethestandardchampioninginthenightlifescene.amveryluckytofriendswithfour
Lastly, resident DJ at RARE and
Going to university in Aberdeen, you soon become aware of the diversity of nightclubs here. You are offered a plethora of different clubs, playing music tailored to what you want to spend your night dancing and drinking away to. I usually happen to find myself spending most of my nights out at RARE or Bohemia, two different clubs playing the best in techno, house, disco, bass, jungle and more. The culture at these clubs usually has an inclusive feel, everyone knows everyone, and everyone is welcome!
and bass style at the moment but I’m always changing.”
Molly then described her experience, “For me, it was kind of unexpected. I started off with a few gigs with feminist
Helena talked about how she wants to represent herself; “I am from Southeast Asia so I really want to show what I would wear if I was playing in Singapore or something. I want to continue to represent my culture In Aberdeen”

The group laughed as they told me their takes:
Anna then pointed out that there is a shallow element to it as, “A lot of times people will not be thinking whether you’re playing well or not, they will be thinking, do you look good or not?” she said. The group were all in agreement.
What are your biggest fashion influences?
“What
The DJ scene has been very cis male dominated for a long time, have you found that women, nonbinary and LGBTQ+ performers have to work harder to achieve the same success?
1. Don't be a d*ck!
Molly added, “That night I feel like we were all just one person behind the decks, we were all just bouncing off each other and it was such a supportive environment to play in.” They all agreed that there was no sense of competition it was just good, positive vibes.
6.
Anna: “I love the 90s and early 2000s, there was just so much wild fashion that came out back then. It is just really interesting to me how trends came about.”
men for them to be there. As a result of this though, I am really happy to see that spaces specifically for women, nonbinary and LGBTQ+ performers have popped up. There are still challenges. It isn’t always easy for people to enter these spaces, but it’s good to see that there is some change happening.”
“Not between us, usually big superstar DJs often wear full outfits designer, but I think here it’s not really like that” Helena said. “As artists grow, they make business moves bit by bit to help them along the way like brand deals, but I think it’s easy to expensivewearingotherstoinyourselflosetryingpleasebymoreclothes.”
Gulax Velvetyne&GilbertMorganBy 53
Hazel added, “outside of going out, clothes are essentially another way of showing your creativity outside of that kind of performance framework.”
Hailing from probably one of my favourite nights out where Anna, Hazel, Helena and Molly all headlined at RARE. The group spoke about how much of a positive experience it was. “I just had such good vibe from it! So many people came up to me and said they enjoyed it, women felt seen, people felt safe there! It was so good” Anna exclaimed.
4.
2. Just vibe and enjoy the music!
exposing your art, I design my own hoodies and I was wearing one one night and I got a lot of compliments on it.”
Hazel: “For me, I like a lot of stuff but at the moment I love Afrofuturism.”
fashion and DJing is a really good opportunity for small time designers and brands to get some of their work out there and noticed by a bigger audience.”
Helena: “I am heavily inspired by Southeast Asian streetwear; I think it’s amazing.”
8.
recognition.” You can find Anna, Hazel, Helena and Molly on @anna_barrieInstagram:@elanda111@k.o.p.i.o@dj.zema
wearing
Molly had this to say, “For me, what I wear is always a choice, if I want to wear really comfy clothes I can. It depends on my mood, everything I’m wearing, I’m wearing for me, not for recognition.”
Do you think DJs spend more money to look a certain way to succeed?
3. Keep song requests to a minimum ;) . Drink plenty water. Respect everyone. Don't touch the DJ. Don't touch the decks. And most importantly... Have fun! I wear is always a choice... everything I’m wearing, I’m for me, not for
7.
Hazel thatAnnathere“However,added,aresomepositivestothis.”pointedout “incorporating
Molly: “I like what I like really, I don’t know if I have too many inspirations, but I love to look ethereal I guess.”

Lastly, for a laugh. Do you have any ‘Rules of the Rave?’
CREDIT:TYPEFACE
Molly provided a good insight, “I wrote my dissertation on how if you are a man, you are encouraged towards hard objects that have mechanical moving parts. When you are a female or any other identity, you are not encouraged in the same way and your brain literally develops differently. Because of that, you might become scared of technology. This spans into a lot of different spheres where technology is involved, like STEM subjects. Often, women and non-binary performers are not welcomed into the same spaces as their it’sexample,theprominentandcounterpartsmalethatisquiteinDJsceneforbecauseshockingto
5.
“I think that comes with being a woman, there’s a lot of times some male DJs will wear something crazy, and people will acknowledge it, but they will keep vibing to the music. Whereas, if a woman was to do the same, a lot of people would pay more attention to the outfit over the music. I feel like there’s some unwritten rule that we have to look good every time we play,” Hazel added.
Have you ever felt pressure to dress a certain way?
BySueli Pinheiro
By AndrewMarti n
Styled
Arcteryx Beanie Vintage Carhartt Detroit Jacket Vintage washed Levi 505 Jeans Nike Jordan 4 Metallic Red
Urban
AndWhat Hoodie Thifted Sweater Vest Outfitters Trousers Reebok Club C 85
ADOLESCENCE

Photographed
Models: Kwaku Boahen, Edward Hutchings, Tatenda Gentle, Nicole RutendoNdlovu,Andrea Musarira The North Face Jacket Black F&F Men’s Cargo Trousers Black Run Star Hike Converse
54

Karl Kani NikeboohooMANJacketTrousersTuned3Model:TatendaGentleWe’ll neverbethosekidsagain. 55

Model: Edward Hutchings

AndWhatThriftedBershkaSunglassesJacketCardiganHoodie 56

Shein

Primark BandanaFlannelPrimarkHeadscarfEarringsShirtH&M
57
Model: Ivon Nakalanzi

Model: Kwaku Boahen


Youth ain’ta thingforever
Carhartt Cross Body Bag
Models: Tatenda Gentle, Ivon Nakalanzi

Bershka Jacket H&M Graphic T-shirt Bershka Leather Trousers Nike Air Force 1 White
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SEASONDENIMFindyourwardrobestaples,withourbestpicksfromthehighstreet.1 THE MORE THE MakeBETTERastatement by pairing denim-on-denim. We recommend similar shades for a cohesive look. ANYDAY WW LOOK 8 1328, John Lewis Belted Jacket, £55, all River IslandDenimBeltIsland,River39,RI (Freemans)Mango£59.99,Jumpsuit, ‘ALL IN ONE’ A jumpsuit will quickly become your early morning saviour. A flared leg presents a nod back to seventies’ style. 3 2 BUTTON UP A versatile piece that can be dressed up or down. Wear with fresh white to make your denim stand out. Oversized Denim Shirt, £16, Grace Straight Jeans, £12.50, all Matalan





Created by Molly Trainer George ASDA jeans£20 The Jacket Bar denim jacket£140 Primark gold necklace£6 Shoe Zone£29.98boots FatFace £89bag FatFace denim dungarees£25 Radley London£309bag River Island boots£60 Seol + Gold£69.95ringGeorge ASDA shorts£22 River Island corset£22 Radley London£159bag Hot Diamond earrings£65Office heels£52 Retaissance£119top Primark denim bucketOliverhat£6Bonas earrings£12.50Oliver Bonas denim£59.50skirt Oliver Bonas headband£19.50 Retaissance £195shirt Radley London£219bag Oliver Bonas gold watch£159F&F boots£25 Oliver Bonas earrings£15 Denim to die for! Elevate your wardrobe with 4 trendy double denim looks, suitable for any Oliveroccasion.Bonas silver watch£179 Cocktail Hour Office ChicStudy Date The Brunch Club 61

























Shoot: Sara Clark
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express your individuality express your individuality
Models: Anya Cooper & Eamon Duncan



Anya wears: Hollister, Primark, New Look, Calvin Klein & Vans, Rose Quartz necklace loaded by @mesmerisinggmiracles Eamon wears: Customised vintage leather jacket, Dr. Martens, Tiger and Stiff Little Fingers merchandise




Blazer:

RevisitedDaysSchool
Sweatshirt: Thrifted Skirt: Shoes:Bag:Socks:BershkaAmazonPrimarkNike 64

Styled, Make-up and Directed by Violeta Genzor Alvarez Photographed by Alexander Spence Models: Laura Cameron and Violeta Genzor Alvarez
Massimo Duti Shirt: Zara Skirt: Brandy Melville Tie: Shoes:AmazonConverse

Jacket: Pull&Bear Polo: Zara Skirt: Bag:Shoes:BershkaDr.MartensPrimark Sweater: Bershka Skirt: Shoes:Socks:HollisterAmazonDr.Martens All jewellery is from Femme D’argent Polo: Jacket:ZaraBrandy Melville Bag: Skirt:MangoBrandy Melville Shoes: Dr. Martens Sweater: Primark Skirt: Shoes:Socks:HollisterAmazonDr.Martens 65



iets frans velour zip hoodie £18 ASOS DESIGN belly chain £4.80 Flying Tiger sunglasses £2.00 Rookie fever quad rollerskates £57.99 Vintage supply fIare trousers £35.00 RETRO YOUTH A colourful pop of retro flares, silk headscarves and diva glasses that reminds us of our playful youthful side. Stylist: Anja Photographer:WatsonJordan Foreman Models: Jamie Reid, Chevall Arendse 66

Liza Lovell waistcoat £18.99 Vintage orange turtleneck top £4.00 Vintage headscarf upcycled 67

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Hollister vintage straight overall £49.99 Hollister baby tee £17

Liza Lovell waistcoat £18.99 Vintage orange turtleneck top £4.00 Vintage headscarf upcycled
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Which
Life is Just a Game
Creative Direction, Photography & Model: Laura Lenco player are you?


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Dress from ASOS, £33 Gloves from Amazon, £13.99 Balaclava from I Saw It First, £4

Blouse from ASOS, £20 Corset Bodysuit from Oh Polly, £40 Belt from Primark, £6 Tights from ASOS, £10
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Gloves from PrettyLittleThing, £10 Rings from ASOS, £16 Dress made by Laura Lenco

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Model: Anja Watson
Top: Urban Outfitters, £40 Earrings: Kingsley Ryan, £6

Positive.Nothingwrongwithnatural

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Model: Chevall Arendse Necklace: ASOS, £6 Sweater vest: Zara, £32
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Stylist and photographer:JamieReid
Models left to right: Chevall Arendse, Anja Watson
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1. Joe Borrows 70s Vibe FEDORA (£25) 2. Casual Cord DRESS (£50) 3. Office BOOTS (£95) 4. RETRO TELEPHONE in English Mustard (£44.95) 5. River Island BLOUSE (£50) 6. The Rolling Stones Framed Album WALLART in Some Girls Print (£60) 7. Sadie Amber SUNGLASSES (£30) 8. TK Maxx Gold Paisley TIE (£14.99) 9. Art Nouveau TUB CHAIR in Orange from cuckooland.com (£489) 10. 2. Homesense 70s red translucent textured VASE (£9.99) 1. 2. 3. 4. 9.10.7. GilEduardobyPage











: Molly Monro, Rachel Baldie Turtleneck : Next (Charity Shop) Pinafore : Ebay (Second Hand) Tights: Primark Shoes : New Look (Charity Shop) Styling quirky and bold sustainable finds. 79

Photographer Ogilvie Hair Styling
and Makeup : Molly Monro
: Chloe
Gone Thriftin’
80
Turtleneck : Next (Charity Shop) Skirt : Motel Rocks (Depop) Tights: Primark

Dress : No Brand (Gran’s Cupboard) Tights : Primark 81

Photos & Styling: Honor Gornell MoDELs Molly Speir & Miriam Foy
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Closet, Shop It. Is shopping somone else’s closet the new wave of sustainability?
& Make-up:
Eye for an eye Cardigan, Lazy Oaf, £80 Print straightleg trousers, Monki, 1460,LACESMOOTH£30LEATHERUPBOOTS,£149.00

Pink checkered dress, The ragged priest, textured

top, Vintage 83

£22 Purple

plainheartbarbed-wireearrings,jane,£6.63 84


checkered slip dress, the ragged priest, ASOS, £22

COLLUSION Unisex 90’s straight leg jeans with laser print co-ord, ASOS, £30
85


Jaden platform, dr. martens, £179
Green Sweater, Vintage
Red striped jumper, vintage

COLLUSION Unisex 90’s straight leg jeans with laser print co-ord, ASOS £30
high waist jeans in patchwork stripe denim, The Ragged Priest, £55
86


Green,CORDUROY,ORGANICDungaree:OriginalForest£55 Eye for an eye Cardigan, Lazy Oaf, £80 87


Creative Behind: Attina Salihmurad


Inerasable Through thrifting, charity and antique stores a look into the reuse of forgotten clothes Model Right Coat: Thrifted Mahogany TrenchModelCoatLeft Shirt: W&B VintageShortCheckeredSleeve

Shirt: Vintage Faux Silk Button-up
Trousers: Vintage patchwork trousers
Shoes: Nike Air Jordan 1’s “Seafoam”
Accessories: Model’s Own
Corset: OhPolly Creme Buckle

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Model Right Shirt: PrettyLittleThing Button-up Shirt Jumper: Vintage Boden Brown V-Neck Jumper Trousers: UO Vintage Ribbed Chestnut Trousers Shoes: Nike x Travis Scott 1’s Accessories: Model’s Own
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Model Left Shirt: Next Vintage Cuffed Buttom-Up Shirt Coat: Vintage Faux-Fur Cropped Coat Trousers: PrettyLittleThing Creme Open Flares Shoes: Nike Airforce 1’s Bag: Primark Gold Chain Bag Accessories: Model’s Own

A MODERN FAIRYTALE STYLED AND DIRECTED BY MIA CROFT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROISIN GIBSON MODELED BY SARAH SADIQ PRINCESSES DON’T ALWAYS WEAR GLASS SLIPPERS PERMISSION KINDLY GIVEN TO PHOTOGRAPH AT SCHIVAS HOUSE

SARAH WEARS: SELKIE MODEL’SDRESSOWN
JEWELLERY 95

HAPPILY EVER AFTER... 96

THEEDITFLORALStepintothenewseasonwithoutfitsinspiredbynature’scolourpalette 97


Top:Left Asos Design Corset: THISTrousers:PrettyLittleThingZaraPAGETop:ZaraJeans:ZaraShoes:Dr.MartEns 98


Model: Callie Birnie
Hair & Makeup: Callie Birinie & Dawn Ingram
Shoes: Dr. MartEns

Photographer: Iain cridland
Location: Aberdeen Business School, RGU
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Stylists: Dawn Ingram & Sofia Kent

Top: SKIRT:ZaraAsos Design

Dress:ZARA
THE AIR THAT RIPPLES THROUGH OUR CLOTHES 100
Model & Stylist: Fatima-Alexandra Husain Photographer: Amy Park
SOUL CONNECTION

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THE EARTH THAT SHOWS ABOVE THE SOIL
Model: Andreea Dumitrovici Photographer & Stylist: Fatima-Alexandra Husain Corset: Amazon Black Underwear: H&M Jewellery: Stylist’s own High boots: Primark

Model, Photographer & Stylist: Fatima-Alexandra Husain Black body: Ann Summers Black chocker: H&M Nose ring: Accessorize Earrings: Model’s own

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THE FIRE That LIVES WITHIN OUR SOULS
Top: Trousers:PrimarkPrettyLittleThing

Dress: Primark Jacket:: Tiger Lily Boutique Bodysuit: Primark Trousers: PrettyLittleThing Heels: Primark
Using fur and prints without hurting our furry friends


Photography: Katy Grieg Model: Anita McAllister Stylist: Caitlin Michie

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Fur Is Back
Jacket: PrettyLittleThing
So why are these numbers so high? The most likely culprit is fast fashion, the practice of rapidly designing,
The
Returned items account for 5 billion pounds of waste every year. Many retailers have been accused of dumping their customer returns into landfill instead of re-circulating them through the business. The returned items, even those that have never been worn or damaged, have travelled through the supply chain, creating a large carbon footprint as they go, only to end up in landfills. In the US alone, an estimated 3.5 billion returned products are being discarded every year, with only around 20% of those products being faulty or damaged.
manufacturing, and selling fashion items at low prices. This practice of making and selling clothes at reduced prices leads to lower quality items, often with a shorter life span, with the estimated average being 2.2 years. This means that items need to be replaced more frequently, which inevitably leads to an alarmingly high amount of textile waste.
UPDATE YOUR WARDROBE WITH THE CLOTHES YOU ALREADY HAVE
fashion industry has been named the world’s secondlargest polluter. Accounting for 10% of the global carbon emissions and making up 5.2% of landfill waste, it’s not hard to see how the fashion industry has earned this title.
An estimated 100 billion clothing items are being produced every year, and whilst upcycling won’t solve all of the industry’s problems, it is a step in the right direction. Polyester is one of the most commonly used materials in the fashion industry, with 52% of our clothing being made from the synthetic material. However, not only is polyester nonbiodegradable, but its production also requires 70 million barrels of oil per year. Re-purposing the billions of tonnes of polyester that would ordinarily end up in landfills is a much more sustainable practice that thankfully many brands are beginning to get on board with.
REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE: HOW TO UPCYCLE YOUR OLD CLOTHES
Meanwhile, before and during Covid, consumers are becoming more and more vocal about the industry’s negative impact on the environment. The lockdown forced retailers to evolve, with a new focus on circular fashion. Now instead of trying to push out as many products as possible and keeping up with trends, brands and retailers are beginning to shift their focus to prolonging their items lifespan, repurposing those that have come to the end of their lifespan into new products, creating a constant cycle.
Dawnmaterials.”virginWrittenby:Ingram
A more recent BBC Future article, titled ‘Why clothes are so hard to recycle’, states that the average American throws away approximately 37kg of clothing each year. In addition to this, an estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced globally per year, which is the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes being emptied into a landfill every second. This number is only expected to increase, with a predicted average of 134 million tonnes of textile waste being produced globally byWhen2030.you narrow the statistics down to a more local scale, you find that the UK has one of the highest fast fashion consumption rates in Europe. In addition to this, Greenpeace suggests that roughly 300,000 tonnes of discarded clothing are being burned or buried in landfills each year. However, it is not just consumers that are guilty of tossing their unwanted clothes, retailers and manufacturers will often toss their unsold or damaged stock in an attempt to be more ‘cost-effective’.
According to a Sustain your Style article, written in 2017, titled ‘The fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world’, in the western world a single-family discard an average of 30kg of clothing every year, with only 15% of these discarded items being recycled or donated. The remaining percentage is incinerated or sent to landfill. 72% of our clothing is made from non-biodegradable synthetic fibres, which means that the items that are sent to landfill can take years to decompose, with some fibres, such as polyester, taking up to 200 years to fully decompose.
In the 2020 Vogue article ‘Upcycling Is The Biggest Trend In Fashion Right Now’, Sara Arnold, the cofounder of campaign group Fashion Act Now, states that, “We have enough textiles that we’ve already produced to last us, and yet we’re still producing masses of clothes from
There are several ways that we as consumers can be more environmentally conscious, such as washing your clothes on a lower heat setting, donating your unwanted clothes, or upcycling the clothes in your wardrobe. Upcycling is the process of taking old unwanted, damaged, or unused products and using them to create something new, prolonging the lifespan of the product. This practice will help to reduce the amount of textile waste that is sent to landfills every year.
Eileen Fisher’s ‘Renew’ is a prime example of a company using circular fashion. ‘Renew’ is a take-back programme, encouraging their customers to bring back their old and unwanted products to be re-circulated into the supply chain. The items collected in this programme are professionally cleaned and then either re-sold to customers or turned into new products. Customers are given a $5 reward card for every item they take back.
I selected two dresses for this project. The first was a pink denim mini dress and the second was a little black dress, that I have admittedly never worn because it didn’t fit the way I wanted it to. After selecting the clothes I wanted to use for the project, I headed down to ‘Stitchcraft’, a dressmaker in Inverurie, owned by a family member, to see if they had any unwanted or outdated stock I could use.



After a quick look around, I had found a black feather boa and a strip of diamanté ribbon for the black dress. Next, I headed back home to see what I could find in my own supplies. For the pink dress, I decided to use the butterfly motifs I had leftover from a previous project.


Whilst more challenging upcycling projects will take more time and practice, upcycling will most certainly be added to my wardrobe care routine.
I started with the pink dress. It was still in good condition, having only been worn a couple of times, so there was no need for any repairs or alterations. Taking the butterfly motifs, I began to map out where I wanted each one to be placed, pinning them down once I was happy with the placement. Then, all that was left to do was to handstitch them onto the dress.
By the end of the project, I had gone from being ready to take both dresses down to the charity shop to trying to find an excuse to wear them again.
All pictures taken and owned by Dawn Ingram
During the pandemic many people, myself included, cleared out their wardrobes. A recent Wrap report found that as the UK came out of lockdown an estimated 67 million items were set to be disposed of. However, the report also found that 50% of UK citizens try to avoid creating textile waste, a statistic which has risen by 20% in the last two years alone.Idecided to take a leaf out of Eileen Fisher’s book by upcycling some of my unwanted clothes, and after a couple of hours of scrolling through Pinterest, I had all the motivation I needed to get started. Being a novice at sewing, I decided to opt for more of a re-vamping of the clothes I no longer wanted, and with the help of a family member, it wasn’t hard to track down the materials I needed to do just that.
The next, and final step was to add the diamanté ribbon to the waistline. Following the same process as the butterfly motifs and the feather boa, I pinned the ribbon in place and hand-stitched it once I was happy with the placement.
The black dress was slightly more complicated. Since the dress did not fit properly, it needed to be altered, so the first step was to turn the dress inside out and shorten the straps. Once that had been fixed, I began to pin the feather boa around the top of the dress, making sure to leave a gap at the back for the zip. Once the boa was fully pinned in place, I hand-stitched it on.
It seems I am not alone. According to The Atlantic Magazine, they found by conducting a questionnaire, that a staggering 41 per cent of women aged 18 to 25 admit to feeling pressure to wear a different outfit every time they go out. Sometimes we forget, as a society, that an influencer’s job is to have and promote ludicrous amounts of clothes online. Therefore, it is unrealistic to follow in their footsteps. They are essentially endorsing a business and gaining these clothes for free as part of a paid promotion. Whereas me, a student, is breaking their bank trying to keep up. These influencers are doing their job successfully. They have helped increase the rate of fast fashion, as the fashion industry pushes out a frightening 80 billion garments a year. The fashion industry tends to try to make you forget these facts, by turning
An insight into how this fashion student copes, paring down to a minimal wardrobe, in hopes of helping to save the environment.


Confessions of a Consumerist, Capsule Closet, and Climate Concern
I am part of the growing problem. As a uni fashion student, I tend to believe that quality items labelled eco friendly are way out of my budget. Instead, I opt for cheaper alternatives that are on-trend but won’t last me longer than a month or two. It has been ingrained in me that I cannot wear the same thing more than once, particularly for nights out, which is deemed normal by TikTokers and Instagrammers.
Although fast fashion has never been easier to get your hands on, it is difficult to store, and I, a shopaholic, can confirm this. A jampacked wardrobe sounds dreamy until 8 am rolls around, and you are crying out, “I have nothing to wear!” whilst staring at a heaped pile of already out of trend clothes on the floor. So what happens when you finally give up living with what seems an untameable shopping addiction and a crammed wardrobe? Where do these clothes go when we mindlessly throw them away?
a blind eye because fashion lives on and consumers want the next best thing. Only covering issues, discussing social and economic injustices, and racial inequalities instead of what it is doing to the climate and the worrying landfills that are turning parts of our world into a wasteland?
Compelled after learning these facts, I felt it was my job to investigate the strategies being implemented to support a more sustainable fashion industry. Then placed magically on my what to watch feed was the YouTube video titled, “Living out of my capsule wardrobe.”
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Fast fashion is slowing the world and me down. The world is becoming all too comfortable, impulsive purchasing of items at the click of a button, turning the treat to shop into a daily habit. Consumers are buying a new piece of clothing every week. Every week! People can afford to buy clothes this frequently because they are being made so cheaply. They are now so disposable, they’ve created the throw-away culture.
The saying ‘out of sight, out of mind’ describes how the industry hides our throw-away culture in countries like Chile. Chile has the driest desert in the world called the Atacama. This desert takes 59,000 tonnes of our unwanted clothes to landfill each year, resulting in polluting the little water they have. Whilst the rest of our unwanted 91,041,000 tonnes of textiles get distributed to other landfills. If that is not alarming enough, the landfills produce methane gases which add to earth’s crippling health.
Let’s start at the beginning. What is a capsule wardrobe? It was an idea invented by Susie Faux, a British boutique designer from the ‘70s. Faux found a way of living from a suitcase load of clothes, i.e. your essential items (usually around 30- 40 pieces of clothing) which can carry you through a whole season if not a year. Susie Faux had the idea of a agessure.ofinoveroftheoffice,fitwardrobe,women’sforthewithemphasisqualityquantitymind.AheadhertimeforPeopleofallarenow
adopting and incorporating it into their lifestyle, no matter their profession. Vloggers are raving about it and the mental clarity you gain from having the clear out. However, I am aware of how ‘first world’ this problem is. While we are trying to strip down to our most essential clothing items, others are less fortunate, rummaging through our throwaways and cleaning up our mess. Therefore no clothes will be thrown away in this experiment.
“Vloggers are ravingit”about
time in the morning was blissful, no rushing about, nothing was forgotten. I felt prepared for my day ahead at university, that was until I arrived. It seemed that day that everyone had come in their most fashionable outfits. The need to remind myself of the quest I had only begun this morning...
Theitems.extra
As the weeks went by, I curbed my appetite for online shopping because I was not allowed to buy any fashion related stuff, saving me a surprising amount of money. Although fast fashion is deemed cheap, it soon adds up. Society has the idea that classic pieces are too expensive but forget that what seems like cheap items of clothing over time rake up a large sum of wasted money, money I should have invested into quality pieces.
by Issy Birnie
In conclusion, there are only benefits to having a capsule wardrobe. With the help of Susie Faux and Courtney Carver, I immediately saw a difference. No more stressful mornings of trying to pair an outfit together from a stupid amount of clothes. Using Courtney Carver’s formula of 33 items was enough. Compulsive shopping is a growing bad habit made socially acceptable by media stars. The current and next-generation need to restrain from and search for new ways to be sustainable like the capsule wardrobe preventing more build-up of landfills full of clothes.
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The ideal capsule wardrobe should mix and match to re-form and create new outfits for everyday wear. Investigating all the different ways to minimise wardrobe, it became clear that the ‘333 project’ formula, created by Courtney Carver, was the best. An expert in minimal living and blogging, Carver created the perfect formula, with the help of her son, a mathematician, she figured out that 33 items of clothing resulted in 25,176 alternative ensembles, albeit some only swapped out jewellery. This seemed farfetched and intriguing. Reading how this calculation was found, and seeing it was doable, almost exciting, and better than dropping down to full cold turkey mode of ten items, I figured I would give it a try. Limiting the number of clothes to the very low number of ten items of apparel seemed too extreme, I also considered if everyone lived like this the economy would drop and charity
I hung up the limited array of clothes on my clothes rail, an extension to my overgrown wardrobe for this experiment. It meant I had no urge to look in my closet nor be tempted by the other clothes for the next 30 days. The display of clothes highlighted my style, favourite items, and most practical items of clothing which are all mainly neutral colours of beige and black. Some of the pieces I had scouted were even from Vinted (a second hand buying and selling app) and charity shops. I did this without thinking as they are my better quality items to wear.
The first week of the challenge was a bit daunting. Bored in my outfit that took less than 5 minutes to put together, a white turtleneck, my go-to wide-leg jeans and Converse, I was reassured, however, when I read others’ attempts in doing this exercise, one exclaiming that it is normal to be bored of your clothes, particularly when you are used to a quicker turnover of
shops would be brimming with stuff from everyone’s emptied closets. This being said the world could benefit a great deal if a lot more people learned how to capsule wardrobe.




Will you be so daring to take on this challenge?
Wanting to see how difficult it was to be more mindful towards the environment I set myself the challenge, 30 strict days with 33 items. Salvaging not only my sanity but doing my part to help save mother nature from its deteriorating health.
THE CONSUMER
- a brief exploration into the impact of fast fashion -
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Garments: Upcycled by Shakira Campion Styling and Photography: Shakira Campion



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Turquoise satin dress: Nasty Gal Crochet cardigan: Zara Pearl necklace: Vivienne Westwood White platform sandals: Nasty Gal Platform espadrilles: Public Desire

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Styled by Morgan Cruickshank and Sophia Dam Photography by Sophia Dam Modelled by Faye Spellman and Giovanna Mondal
Black satin dress: Zara Platform espadrilles: Public Desire Pearl necklace: Stylist’ s own Circle wave earrings: LazyDaisies Beaded bracelet: 4Ocean Pearl ring: Charity shop Bag: Handmade (recycled & reused materials)


Turquoise satin dress: Nasty Gal Crochet cardigan: Zara White platform flip flops: Stradivarius Pearl necklace: Vivienne Westwood Pearl ring: Charity shop
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Lilac metallic set: Nasty Gal White top: PrettyLittleThing White platform sandals: Nasty Gal Pearl necklace: Vivienne Westwood Pearl ring: Charity shop

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1. Pottery Pendant Light cuckooland.com £49.95 2. Glass Table Light Habitat £18.00 3. Picture Frame TK Maxx 4.£6.99Sky Blue Picture Frame TK Maxx £2.99 5. Iridescent Candle Homesense £5.99 6. LED Letter LightBox Homesense £9.99 7. Navy Cushion George £9 8. Blue Brush Cushion Homesense £16.99 9. Hand Woven Rug Homesense £79.99 10. Velvet Storage Bench TK Maxx £99.99 11. Metal Chair Homesense 12.£39.99Chinese Print Floor Cushion Homesense 13.£49.99Textured Chair TK Maxx £129.99 Into Blue? Here are all of the items you need to create a comfy, chill out area in your own home. 6 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 11 10 13 12 9


By Rheanna Duffus





Dress: Boohoo £22.50 Mask: Model’s own WOKE UP IN 2022 The year the world came back to life. We are ready to get our best dress back on. It is time to celebrate the new roaring 20s. Pyjamas: Amazon £21.99 Sleep mask: Boux Avenue £10.00 118

Pyjamas: Amazon £21.99 Mask: Model’s own 119

Pyjamas: Amazon £21.99 Sleep Mask: Boux Avenue £10.00 Dress: Boohoo £22.50 Pearl Necklace: Primark £2.00 Mask: Model’s own 120

more dreaming about an unrestricted life.
Dress: Boohoo £21.00 Sleep Mask: Boux Avenue £10.00 Gold Chain: ROMWE £3.50 Let’s dressedget up
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Gold Chain: ROMWE £3.50
Pearl Necklace: Primark £2.00
Champagne Dress: PrettyLittleThing £28.00



Robe: Next £28.00

Black Slippers: Boux Avenue £16.00
Black Dress: Boohoo £22.50
Pink Slippers: Next £22.00
Pale Pink Pyjamas: ASOS DESIGN £26.00


Black Heels: New Look £19.99
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Rose Gold Necklace: Quiz £14.99

White Heels: Bershka £22.00
White Dress: Boohoo £21.00


Rose Gold Heels: New Look £22.00
Spotted Pyjamas: ASOS DESIGN £16.05
£3.50Styled
Heels: Bershka £22.00
and directed by Kirstin Morrison and Mathilda Ripley Modelled by Issy Birnie, Kirstin Morrison and Mathilda Ripley
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Robe: Next £28.00

Necklace: ROMWE
Photographed by Phoebe Ripley
Dress: Boohoo £21.00
Adele
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Models Stylists: Collins
and
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Stylist:
Yoanna Todorova Photographer: Kalin Bogoev Models: Yoanna Todorova & Dayana P. Jacket: Nike Top: Body Engineers Legging: Body Engineers Shoes: Nike


NO EXCUSES

from oversized casual to faux leather chic, the blazer craze has taken over LEATHERINLEADING BADDIEBELTEDTHE OVERDRESSEDBUTOVERSIZEDNEVER KEEP IT CASUAL WITH THIS SIMPLE SAGE LOOK BOOK DRESS UP A BASIC BLAZER WITH A BELT AND GO FROM DAY AT THE OFFICE TO DRINKS WITH THE GIRLS IN SECONDS FREEMANS£69 RIVER ISLAND £80 JOEBROWNS£29 NEXT £55 OLIVER BONAS £12 £59.50BONASOLIVER ACCESSORIZE £12 OLIVER BONAS £19.50PRETTYLITTLETHING£35TKMAXX£9.99 POWER MOVE CURATED BY MATHILDA RIPLEY 133










When consumers turned to online shopping during the pandemic, small businesses stepped into the light. Shoppers began to recognise new pathways to shop and focused on supporting their local businesses in the community to help one another out in tough times. The pandemic gave people the time they needed to take a leap, kick-starting something they have always wanted to do. That is where the boost to small businesses began. Beginning a business was attractive to many because of the freedom of time and the limited amount of money needed to do so when working from home, whilst keeping their creative minds
local and small businesses is a more sustainable avenue for shopping and gives you a more personalised experience. Every time you shop small you are making a business owner jump for joy. This “unexpected business boom” is shaping the future for retail. Etsy, an online hub for micro-businesses and crafters, calculated 4.4 million active sellers in 2020, up from 2.7 million active sellers in 2019. It is estimated around 407,510 small businesses started up in
A Day In The Life of a Small Business Owner
“...embroideryhasmyheart!”
Illustration by Kirstin Morrison
“Yeah, this definitely inspires a lot of designs that I have going on, and with the tote bags being quite eco friendly instead of plastic bags, I definitely keep nature in mind. I’m very inspired by nature. I just like to embroider things that are pretty, and that I hope other people think are pretty and things I just love looking at and excite me. I get really excited about mushrooms and toadstools, which a lot of people may think are lame, I just love them. I also think flowers are so gorgeous. Recently I started embroidering autumn leaves and the colours are
INTERVIEW: Owner of Hand and Hoop, Eve Morrison, gives a first hand account of the craze of running a business solo, with tips and tricks to starting your own...

Eve Morrison, creator of Hand and Hoop, started her crafty business in late 2020 and is based in Aberdeen, Scotland. Eve has kindly chatted with me about her experience as a small business owner. Here she is to introduce herself and answer a few questions: “My business name is Hand and Hoop, and you can find it on Etsy. I do embroidered bags with some TellTikTok.”Instagrammelove.byproductonbrandaccessories.otherTheisfocusednature.Everyismadehand,withYoucanfindonFacebook,anduswhatmade

£15Bag:TotePosyEmbroideredHand
the lockdown period of 2020, and Hand and Hoop was one of them.
Supportingstimulated.
‘Cottagecore’. ‘Cottagecore’ became quite popular last year. With lockdown, we weren’t able to spend much time outside, so it’s about enjoying the simple life, being creative and embracing nature. It’s also about going outside and enjoying what’s around you.”
Sustainabilitybeautiful.”isincredibly important in the future of fashion. What kind of actions are you taking, if any, to become more
MorrisonKirstinbyInterview
“Obviouslysustainable?my tote bags are a good alternative to plastic bags. I’m also going to start focusing on the packaging of my products, I know I am not the most sustainable at the moment. I use a lot of
you want to start a “So,business.Istarted in November last year, and I mainly wanted to because a lot of my friends started one too, I thought it was really cool and it looked really fun. I started making earrings because I knew that was something I really enjoyed, so I thought I may as well sell Howthem.”would you describe the design style of your business?
“I make hand embroidered tote bags. A lot of them are inspired by nature, like flowers, leaves and toadstools, things like that. They fall under the bracket on the internet called

Would you say this is what inspires your business and products?
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MorrisonEvebyprovidedimagesandPhotography
What advice would you give to someone looking to start a small business - fashionrelated or any type of brand in general? “Familiarise yourself with the platform you are going to promote your business on. Spend time making a great brand image. Also… just go for it! Don’t hold back. You’re going
What do you like about running a small “Ibusiness?reallyenjoy the creative aspect of it, I enjoy creating products, finding new designs, and creating things that make people happy and putting smiles on people’s faces. I also really enjoy the marketing side of it on social media. I mainly focus on Instagram to make it pretty, but I find making TikToks good fun.”
What are some challenges you face or what have you found difficult throughout the process of starting your business?
What experience or education have you had that you felt benefitted you to do the tasks required for a small business owner?
What’s next for your business? Do you plan to branch out to other fashion-related products?
Thank you Eve for talking about your take on the small business life!
“I currently feel my biggest issue, is creating enough stock, particularly for craft fairs, because they are quite time consuming. My products are not something you can make quickly or do in a big batch; they are each very individual. Trying to get products done to a deadline is difficult, because all my products are made to order. Sometimes when I have a lot going on in my life with my studies at the same time, it can be a lot to do.”
What sort of things do you do to get your business name known? What did you find most effective?
up and there’s going to be products people don’t like. You have to step past that, and you will see there are products that people are going to really like. You must learn by trial and error. Do your brand research, know your market, and see what happens.”
TikTok:Facebook:Instagram:@HandandHoop@handandhoop@handandhoop@handandhoop
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“I would like to do accessories such as pencil cases and maybe more sweatshirts. I have one on my Etsy page that seems to be a hit, so I might focus on more clothing rather than accessories. I have also made a start on Christmas decorations which I can see transitioning into creating home decorations such as wall hangings. I don’t think I would go back to earrings; embroidery has my heart!”
“I do my marketing online, sharing my page on Facebook, Instagram and TikTok. I do feel Instagram and TikTok can be difficult to grow on sometimes, it’s hard to get recognised or for anyone to come across anything you have Iposted.useInstagram for images of final products, and I did a giveaway once too. I follow trends on TikTok and do behind the scenes videos because it seems more personal and people like that. Craft fairs are really nice to give out business cards and talk to people in reality and get your name known by word-of-mouth. Online marketing is the most effective, particularly TikTok as I have gained a few followers and orders from there, and it is good for brand awareness.”
“I studied Media at college for two years. That helped me understand how to create content to market, especially with video content, creating good images, what should be included in a post and how to work your way into the consumer’s brain. I am studying Digital Marketing now, which I find helpful because a big part of the business is marketing online and the internet is an incredible tool. I know how to post, when to post and I understand statistics. Additionally, I have a YouTube channel, that I have had since I was seventeen, which I have also carried over skills for content creation from.”
Is your embroidery self-taught? If so, what was that “Yeah,like?Iam, well I learnt from a little sheet that came in a how-to kit. Embroidery is one of those things that if you have patience, you can definitely do it. I feel for me this wasn’t really a challenge, I enjoyed sitting in front of the TV and working away. My first few though were an absolute mess! It all comes with practice though.”
What is your favourite design, and what is your most popular design?
£15Bag:ShoppingHerbs to£12Bag:ShoppingToadstoolmess


“My favorite design is my Christmas tree one. I use a different stitch for that design, and it is really fun. My most popular one I would say is my herb bag; it is the most classic and the one that started everything off. That is the one everyone seems to go for.”

plastic packaging, but I am hoping to move to use recyclable poly-mailers.
What sort of skills do you believe you need? “Definitely patience. Most customers are lovely, but you can get the difficult ones. Creating products needs patience, and even when growing your brand, that doesn’t happen overnight. Willingness to adapt and change to the climate, and some knowledge of marketing. It is interesting to look at influencers to see what trends are arising, so you have an idea of what’s to come.”
If you would like to support Eve, make sure to follow Hand and Hoop on social media and have a browse of her Etsy page: Etsy:


Photographed by Wiktoria Ociepa Models: Mya Wallace, Junayd Newman, Natalia Olejniczak


Photoshoot Concept & Styling by Paulina Prorok
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Junayd wears: Suit - BoohooMAN, Top - Topman, Jewellery - ASOS

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Mya wears: Jacket - Nasty Gal, Top - Zara, Skirt - Nasty Gal


Natalia wears: Jacket - Boohoo, Top - Zara, Trousers - Nasty Gal

Junayd wears: Suit - boohooMAN, Top - Topman, Jewellery - ASOS

Natalia wears: Jacket - ASOS, Top - Zara, Trousers - Nasty Gal, Necklace - Depop
Mya wears: Suit - Nasty Gal, Top - Zara, Necklace - Depop
I also product test my garments before they go out for sale. Once the samples are created, they get sent to me for approval. At this stage, I do a seam strength test (to check the durability of the seams in critical areas), a fatigue test (to check that fastenings like buttons/zips are durable), and a colour transfer test (to see if they will rub off on other fabrics).
SHATTERING THE SATIN CEILING
2. NWP prides itself on quality, how do you ensure this throughout your design process?
After graduating with a Textile Design degree from the University of Leeds, Nengi Willie-Pepple was immediately employed into some of the biggest luxury fashion houses. From Diane Von Furstenberg to Gucci, just to name a few, Nengi collected herself an array of skills as a wholesale and fashion buyer from fashion’s elite. Nengi’s experience in the fashion industry has led her to building her own luxury fashion brand, NWP. I interview Nengi to get an exclusive insight into the journey she has had and find out what steps led her to where she is now.

5. As a woman owned brand in the fashion industry, and a black woman at that, how important is championing other women for NWP as a brand? Championing other women is very important to NWP as I feel that it fosters great female relationships. Yes, in March we celebrated International Women’s Day by showcasing some inspirational women like Joyce Banda, Diane von Furstenberg, Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, amongst others. I got to dive deeper into their lives and personal stories, and as a growing brand I can’t wait to do much more to support and uplift women. I am also planning an initiative for girls, which will be coming in the near future.
1. In the five years NWP has been established, has the vision for luxurious, timeless garments, with an affinity for silk-satin fabrics, always been consistent?

3. NWP has a distinct customer profile; did you target this group from the beginning, or did you build an idea of the NWP lady by getting to know your customers throughout the years?
6. What was the process of having NWP included in Parka Fashion Weekend?
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4. As a self-proclaimed ‘slow fashion’ brand, how important is sustainability to NWP? Knowing that the apparel industry creates a lot of textile waste (most of which ends up in landfill), sustainability is an important factor for NWP. It is one of the reasons we do not mass produce and once items are gone, they’re gone. We aim to involve more sustainable practices in the near future.
7. Why have you decided to share so much about the business operations of the brand to your consumers?
I personally set a clothing standard for NWP, which means that I write down how I want the clothes to fit, feel, and perform. Moving on from there, I create a clear tech pack which includes technical drawings, reference images, fabric choice, etc. Having a clear and concise tech pack is the best way to communicate these standards to my manufacturers.
Yes, I have always had an affinity for luxurious fabrics and timeless garments. I felt that having these elements as a focal point guided me in my brand process, as well as enabling me to tell my brand story.
Parka Fashion Weekend was an opportunity that came out of the blue. I received an email from the producers (whom I had never heard about before), and after vetting the email as well as some back-and-forth correspondence about my brand, I was invited to showcase NWP at their pop-up in West Kensington, London.
I definitely built an idea of the NWP lady, but not through getting to know my customers throughout the years. I built her up from the woman I aspire to be and wanted to market to.
Interview by Laura Lenco
How London fashion designer, categorised,rejectingWillie-Pepple,Nengiisbeingboxed,andlimitedbyintersectionality.Aninterviewwiththedesignerandfounderofluxuryfashionbrand,NWP.
I equally enjoyed my time at Gucci and Louboutin, although there was a lot of standing. At times I felt like a security guard if I’m honest. But I’d much rather be standing in a
10. Can you describe to our readers what it was like working for luxury fashion brands such as Diane von Furstenberg, Moschino, Gucci, and Christian Louboutin?
13. How has it been being your own boss from the early years of NWP to now and how would you describe your management style?
Although not everyone who follows NengiWP follows NWP, I believe that without my current audience, I would have had to start from scratch. So having already amassed a substantial amount of followers on my personal page, I have been able to leverage my audience by marketing my brand to the people who already know me, in the hopes that they would be interested in what I do for a living. The goal is to be able to market to those who don’t know me though, but it’s been nice to have a little buffer from my personal brand.
8. You have a large following on Instagram, how have you maximised social media as a marketing tool for NWP?
I began creating NWP in 2016, from sketches, to searching for manufacturers, to securing the domain name for the website. I also began looking for investors, grants, loans and pretty much any source of income that would enable me to fund the business.
luxury fashion store than a coffee shop.
Being my own boss has been very rewarding as I get to choose my hours, but it has also been challenging at times when I can’t find it within myself to be disciplined. The amount of freedom that comes with being your own boss can be a slippery slope if not executed properly. I honestly wouldn’t be able to describe my management style just yet, as I am still a one woman business. I am hoping to make my first hire in 2022.
I approach influencer marketing cautiously as things have changed from when I was blogging. Firstly, influencer prices have gone up majorly, so a whole different budget is required if you want the top players in that field. That being said, as a brand owner I start by going over the NWP ideal customer, looking for women who identify with those characteristics and traits, looking to see their follower count, then most importantly, analysing the engagement on their posts. A few dos from my time working with the above brands were to be transparent, take quality content (so that brands can repurpose them) and adhere to their guidelines. A few don’ts were: Don’t work with a brand unless you like their products or believe in what they stand for, take your time with the content creation (they can tell if it’s rushed), and bring your honest thoughts to the table.
“I got to learn first hand, meet and speak to the creative director, Jeremy Scott, as well as attend their men’s A/W fashion show”
20. And finally, for the young black women like me reading this interview and inspired by your rejection of being boxed, categorised, or limited within the fashion industry and as a black woman, what do you say to them?
It’s about our brand’s processes. On one hand I don’t want my ideas stolen, but on the other hand I think it’s valuable information that helps to tell my brand’s story. I have since removed the fear of my ideas being stolen, as I only showcase things that have already been produced and not pieces that are ‘coming soon’. If I do share ‘coming soon’, the item would have to be dropping in no more than 2 weeks. In addition to that, I personally enjoy seeing the processes of other brands’ growth, as it makes me feel included. I think it’s nice when customers can feel more included in a brand’s growth, as it also helps in building trust and loyalty, which translates to sales.
12. At what point between working within the fashion industry (in your many roles) and running your fashion and lifestyle blog, did you begin the process of creating NWP?
Never be afraid to scream and shout about what you do, because self promotion is very important. It might seem cringe or awkward at first, but no one knows your story and your journey and they will remain ignorant about it if you don’t tell them. In the words of Susan Jeffers, ‘Feel the fear and do it anyway’ because that fear will only ever hold you back, so be very bold and believe in yourself wholeheartedly. Even on days where you feel like you’re not doing enough (I get that quite often), remind yourself that everyone’s story is different and you can achieve success too!
Diane von Furstenberg is one of my fashion icons and if I could choose a mentor, it would be her. Although I didn’t want to go down the wholesale and buying route, interning for a company that I respected made all the difference. I was able to see how buyers select what items from brands should make it onto the shop floor, I was also given the opportunity to assist with the wholesale team and get a grasp of all the buying and prediction decisions. Moschino was tougher in terms of the workload I did as an intern. From tea/coffee runs, to helping the wholesalers with their line sheets and understanding selections, to assisting the marketing team look through magazines for positive Moschino press, to model fittings and helping with press send outs. The reward however was pretty nice, as I got to learn first hand, meet and speak to the creative director, Jeremy Scott, as well as attend their men’s A/W fashion show.
I can’t really say it did as I actually launched my brand in September 2020, which was towards the end of the Black Lives Matter movement. Perhaps if I had launched in the peak of the pandemic and Black Lives Matter movement, I could have leveraged the surge of support. I did definitely see a whole lot of black businesses get the recognition they deserve and I was happy that they were finally being acknowledged for the amazing work they do and products they produce.
11. From your experience as a blogger, how will you approach influencer marketing having the advantage of stepping into the shoes of both sides of the partnership, when seeking out your own influencer collaborations for NWP? What were the dos and don’ts you learned from running your blog when working with brands like Pandora, Olay, and Cîroc Vodka?
9. Last year after the global Black Lives Matter protests, we saw many black owned businesses finally gain the recognition they deserved. Did the surge of support for black owned businesses then impact NWP?
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Being very honest and working every day to give the best of you in every project you are part of. It is also important to work in what you are passionate about, without expecting anything in exchange, only cause it makes you happy.
Fashion magazines have been a fantastic instrument that invited us to dream through those stories of that fascinating world that fashion is, with all the actors taking part in it.
I have been lucky enough to enjoy the most spectacular fashion shows in a moment where the fashion and luxury industry were not struggling with the crisis. If I had to choose only one of them (something utterly difficult), I would stick with the last show by Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent, his retirement from fashion in the year 2002.
The Devil wears Prada, and other films such as Prêt a Porter or Zoolander are caricatures from the reality of the fashion industry, and as such, they have, though distorted, a relatively similar base.
Would you please describe yourself in three words, so the readers can get to know you better?
Do you believe that fashion, and fashion magazines specifically, have been victims of an exacerbated idealisation caused by films like The Devil Wears Prada,
or would you agree that these film depict a reality?
How did your career in fashion got started?
Yolanda Sacristán has been and will be one of the most relevant women in the fashion industry in Spain. For more than three decades she held positions of responsibility in magazines such as Ragazza, Vogue Spain (where she was editor-in-chief for 16 years) and Harper’s Bazaar Spain (3 years as director). Throughout her extensive career she has worked closely with the best photographers, models and stylists, which allowed her to position Vogue Spain as a sales success. Now, all that experience is dedicated to The NewsRoom, her latest project, which proposes a new and disruptive point of view for fashion communication.
I sent my CV to Ragazza magazine and I got chosen as a beauty editor. I was there for ten years, five of those as editor-in-chief of the magazine. And from there I got selected by Vogue.
I’m very organised, hardworking, and self-demanding.
As editor-in-chief of magazines like Vogue Spain or Harper’s Bazaar, I imagine you must have attended some of the greatest runway shows throughout the world. Out of all of them, do you have a favourite?
“Fashion magazines have been a fantastic instrument that invited us to dream through those stories of the fascinating world that fashion is”
Vogue Spain’s Former Editorin-Chief Harper’sEx-Director&ofBazaar
Your extensive background as editor-in-chief of fashion asconsolidatesmagazinesyouoneofthe most influential editors in Spain. And recently you have been chosen from Forbes Magazine as one of the 100 most creative in the business industry. How do you manage the responsibility of keeping up with those titles?
When you entered the fashion world, it was living its greatest democratisation to date; everyone had the possibility of buying a piece of clothing or a magazine. How do you think this impacted your career? Actually, I think that it is now when fashion is more democratised and when everyone can be on trend with an efficient management of their resources. There’s a very wide and varied offer regarding trends and prices. I was extremely lucky for leading the greatest fashion magazine in the best time for magazines; when we prescribed through our covers and editorials and we could have a repercussion in hundreds of thousands of people that followed us
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INTERVIEW WITH YOLANDA SACRISTÁN
I studied journalism with the idea of becoming a war journalist, but through a scholarship in the journal ABC where I was in the national section, I realised that conflicts were not my thing, so I decided to bet on my other passion: fashion and lifestyle.

Fashion is in constant change and the most recent change that this multi-billion dollar industry is facing is the digitalisation of media and communication. By creating The NewsRoom you have shown a brilliant ability to adapt yourself. Could you tell me a bit more about this project and its objective?

of this project, in 2021 we added The Luxury NewsRoom and the agency, The NewsRoom, which extended our services to other areas such as PR, communication, content creation for brands and media, production, strategic consultancy, or influencer marketing, among others.
Which qualities do you think are required to ascend in a competitive atmosphere such as the fashion industry? Tenacity and illusion. I have always thought that where there’s a will there’s a way, even though many people will tell you you cannot do that or that it is not for you. The key for reaching it is fighting for what you want while enjoying the journey. And no one says it will be soon or fast. But, in my opinion, as the saying goes: He who perseveres, succeeds.
17 years as fashion editor of Vogue Spain, that’s a big deal! Throughout your years in this editorial house, you created many different and exquisite covers. But among all of them, I would like to highlight the ones you made with Chiara Ferragni and Kim Kardashian. What did it take for you to choose them when no one else did?
There came up my idea, when I asked myself: why not have all the information that the journalists need in the cloud, downloaded, preview-able, available 24/7, and ready to copy and paste? And that is how The Beauty NewsRoom was born. After the success
How do you see the future of fashion?
and with whom we interacted with.
Talking about change in which other ways - apart from digitisation - do you feel like the fashion world should be reinvented?
I think that the future of fashion is fascinating and very exciting. There is a lot of talent and creativity in young fashion designers, and I see a lot of freedom in their proposals. They also count on the capacity for reaching lots of people through social media. It is fantastic that every day there are more digital-native, interesting brands, and that these brands are showing others, already very
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One of the premises that Vogue has always had in the world is the capacity of going ahead of its time. I remember that we were somewhat criticised for those covers, “How can Vogue have an influencer on its cover?” was said on social media. However, time has proved that we were visionaries and pioneers by doing it. My work also consisted in pushing the team in that direction, in doing unique things, in thinking out of the box.
Interview by Eduardo Gil
Moving from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar was a change, but not that big as both are publications with a common ground. Taking the step to the digital world was a big challenge. After 28 years leading groups in print media, founding two platforms and a digital agency was a challenge that made me nervous. Nevertheless, and despite the difficulties of the beginning, always, since the first minute, I had fun doing it. The feeling of creating The NewsRoom is very
Moving from leading Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar must have felt like a huge change, but moving from the editorial and print world to The NewsRoom must have been even a bigger change. What has been the most enriching part of this project?
I would like to end this interview by asking you the best advice that could be given to a young student that starts on their first steps into this industry. Fight for what you believe in. Don’t listen to those that tell you you cannot get it. You can get anything you want.
established, new forms of doing things.
“Fight for what you believe in. Don’t listen to those that tell you you cannot get it. You can get any thing you want.”
similar to riding a roller coaster for me: vertigo, fear, butterflies in your stomach, and lots of fun. These two years, since I dragged myself into this adventure in 2019, and with a global pandemic in the middle, have generated a lot of adrenaline and happiness. And also a challenge: the one of doing something new and unknown for me, and learning while doing it. Now I can say that the way was worth the pain!
In my opinion, the fashion sector needs to be reinvented, breaking with the established norms, and with what has always worked. Now there are no seasons, genders, or determined distinctions in the way of dressing; however, fashion keeps proposing clothing for men and woman; for spring and autumn…
Society evolves faster and I think that fashion should change at the same rhythm. On the other hand, it is key that the industry keeps investing in sustainability and caring for the environment through platforms that measure its impact and carbon footprint.
The project was born to make the life of brands and journalists easier, in a moment in which the traditional media is suffering an important crisis. The idea emerged when I detected that fashion, beauty, luxury, and lifestyle brands send their information without filtering it too much. The industry’s journalists and media databases receive hundreds of emails every day with huge archives that have capacity restrictions (WeTransfer, Dropbox, etc.) It is very difficult that a brand gets it right with a journalist by sending him something he is interested in, at the moment he needs it.
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Photographer: Daniel de Villanueva
LeGarçon‘HowParisianchicestboysspendtheirday’
Model: Eduardo Gil Stylist: Eduardo Gil & Daniel de Villanueva

On previous page: Vintage leather jacket, shiny necklace MyJewells, pearl earring ALOHAS On this page: Leather pants Pull&Bear, loafers Pull&Bear, bag ASOS DESIGN, pink top Zara

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On this page: Shiny necklace MyJewells, pearl earring ALOHAS
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verb • to undermine the power and authority of an established system or institution
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Models: Anja Watson and Cara Llewellyn Styled by Nicola Hamilton Photographer: Paul Irvine

MONOCHROMATIC.
Suit Co-ord: thrifted Shoes: ASOS
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Urban’s new edge
Incorporating edge with traditional garments
Logan’s Outfit Blazer - Vintage Shirt - Anne Fontaine Paris Trousers - Boohoo Rings - Model’s Own Watch - Model’s Own

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