Stage 2 Fashion Management Magazine, Robert Gordon University 2020 - 2021

RGU Fashion Management Magazine The 12th Edition

We’re Still Connected

U N D E R T H E M ASK

Photographed and styled by Ellie Ballamy Models: Eve Sneddon, Louisa Birdsall

Top: Amazon Gloves: Amazon Jeans: The Kript Rings: Primark, ASOS

FRONT COVER: VERONICA MERIGLIANO MODEL: DAVIS REID 2

SEPARATION

EXPLORING COVID AND THE INABILITY TO TOUCH ITS IMPACT ON FRIENDSHIPS AND RELATIONSHIPS WORLDWIDE

Rings: Silverpickle, Sabo Skirt Necklace: Model’s own Top: Amazon Gloves: Amazon Jeans: Weekday 4

Dress (left): Topshop Dress (right): Asos Necklace: Model’s own Masks: Etsy 5

Rings: Silverpickle, Primark, ASOS, Sabo Skirt Gloves: Amazon 6

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29 FEATURED ARTICLES

138

- 13 -

CHECKING INTO BURBERRY Laura Guild, RGU Fashion Management graduate, tells us about her experience with this iconic British luxury brand

- 36 -

RULING RUNWAYS Scouted on the streets of Düsseldorf, model Jakob Zimny discusses his career

- 68 -

PAMELA FRASER DESIGNS An interview with the Scottish wedding dress designer based in Angus

- 80 -

ERIC CHOONG The seasoned Malayasian fashion designer discusses his journey and craft

- 82 -

THE BEIRUT EXPLOSION The Lebanese fashion industry will keep nurturing talent after decades of war and the recent disaster

- 102 - BOOBS: A BEGINNER'S GUIDE To celebrate, care for and check our own boobs - 143 - PINK WASHING Do the brands cashing in on LGBT+ Pride care more about equity than equality?

- 150 - A PHOTOSHOOT AT HOME Tips and tricks to get the best possible photos even when you are home alone

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For more information about this magazine please contact f.j.blunsdon@rgu.ac.uk

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CONTENTS PRODUCT INSPIRATION

- 20 -

SUITED AND BOOTED Glam up your 9 to 5 blazer

- 45 -

THE MODERN MAN CAVE More than just an unloved room, relax in this luxurious space

- 48 -

SOMETHING A BIT RUSTIC A world of comfortable colours and crochet with velvet, leather and paisley prints

- 58 -

READY FOR TAKE-OFF Stylish, yet comfortable, travel essentials

- 59 -

BOTANICAL BLISS Bring nature indoors with botanical inspired homeware

- 84 -

THE LEATHER LOOK Day & night

- 85 -

GET THE LEATHER LOOK Trench, biker or shacket, faux leather is the way to go

- 86 -

PARTY FROM HOME The club's shut? Get down at home by adding some 70s inspired disco decor

- 87 -

LOOK YOUR BEST In a sweater vest

- 133 - GO WILD WITH SUNGLASSES Spice up any outfit with funky sunglasses! Whatever your price range, there's a perfect pair waiting for you - 149 - FEELING BLUE Give your living space a sense of freedom and calm

CONTRIBUTOR PROFILES - 178 - MEET THE CLASS OF 2020/21 All the content has been created respecting the various locations' Covid guidance and restrictions.

Meet the creative and intrepid team responsible.

time · less · ness a family story

Photoshoot Concept & Styling by Lilli Josephine Lang Photographed by Daniel Kogel Models: Ursula Lang as grandmother Claire Mackney as mother Lilli J. Lang as daughter Leo Dunkel as son Clothes kindly provided by Stilecht Seligenstadt

Claire Jumper from S. Marlon, €200; Skirt from Geisha, €79.90 Ursula Jumper from Princess, €150; Trousers from Cambio Sport, €159.90; Shoes from Deichmann, €59.90 Lilli Jumper from Herzen’s Angelegenheit, €270; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €199.95 Shoes from Urban Outfitters, €60 9

Claire Coat from Milestone, €230; Jumper from Oui, €185; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €150; Shoes from Kennel & Schmenger, €199 Lilli Coat from Oui, €599.95; Blouse from Herzen’s Angelegenheit, €240; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €120; Shoes from Kennel & Schmenger, €199 10

Ursula Blouse from Herzen’s Angelegenheit, €240; Trousers from Cambio Sport, €159.90; Shoes from Deichmann, €59.95 Claire Jumper from Oui, €185; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €150; Shoes from Kennel & Schmenger, €199 Lilli Blouse from Herzen’s Angelegenheit, €240; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €120; Shoes from Kennel & Schmenger, €199 Leo Jumper from H&M, €14.99; Shirt from H&M, €14.99; Trousers from H&M, €14.99; Shoes from Vans, €69.95 11

Lilli Jumper from Herzen’s Angelegenheit, €270; Trousers from Raffaello Rossi, €199.95 Leo Shirt from H&M, €14.99; Trousers from H&M, €14.99; Shoes, Model’s own 12

Laura Guild:

Checking into Burberry Pic: Joe Stubbs via unsplash.com

Born and raised in Aberdeenshire, Laura Guild, a Fashion Management graduate, tells me more about her experience as a student and success as a showroom assistant.

Having graduated from university, Laura - now 24 years of age, has located

After market, I assist with runway and pre collection sample management

herself in London, one of the fashion capitals of the world. Her ambition

around the business.”

and education in fashion, has led her to employment at iconic British luxury brand – Burberry.

What happens during market at Burberry and do you have any highlights

I interviewed her for more insight to the designer fashion world and her

you could share?

life prior to graduation.

“During market, Burberry buyers from all regions of the world, come to our showroom to take part in collection presentations that are hosted by the

Can you tell me about your role at Burberry?

merchandisers here at Horseferry House. This happens for any collection

“My role enables me to interact with many stakeholders in the business

that is created, usually ten months before it reaches stores.

and gives me exposure to the amazing things

These presentations go in depth into

that happen at Burberry. Most initiatives are

each category (menswear, womenswear,

in our showroom here in London. It’s a huge space that spans two floors.

I personally work in one of two global showrooms as a menswear specialist. The showroom is used for internal purposes only, where market commences four times a year. Market lasts around two weeks, during which, collections can be viewed and ordered by stockists and regional buyers.

For example, everything from Harrods,

“THESE PRESENTATIONS ARE ONE OF MY FAVOURITE THINGS ABOUT MY JOB...

EVEN IN AN ‘ENTRY LEVEL’ ROLE, IT REALLY MAKES ME FEEL PART OF THE PROCESS”

Selfridges, Net-a-Porter and MyTheresa, will

childrenswear and the accessories for all three groups). These presentations are one of my favourite things about my job, as gaining an insight to the inspiration and development behind an idea or product is so interesting to me. Even in an ‘entry level’ role, it really makes me feel part of the process and that’s something I love about the company.

My favourite category is men’s readyto-wear. Both the design team and

come into the showroom.

merchandisers are lovely, and I’ve built

The market in September totalled an average of around £3 million worth of

relationships with key players in the business through my performance

clothing orders per day, and that was during Covid-19.

and offering any support I can, especially during busy times.”

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Having attained employment at Burberry since graduating in 2019, have

What do you think employers are looking for in graduates/employees,

you encountered any issues transitioning from education into the fashion

when taking on workforce in such a competitive industry?

industry?

“I think I’ve learned that you can’t let your pre-conceived ideas of the

“I think remaining positive and not taking knockbacks to heart is super important. I was very happy with my university grade, but I wouldn’t let that stress you, in the same way it did for me.

Although grades can help you stand out from the crowd to some extent, I have never been asked my grade in an interview. It is more about what I have learned and how I could apply that day-to-day in the industry.

I was quite confident with my abilities from my experience pre-Burberry. I had done the best I

fashion industry put you off. I was very much

“I GOT TO BE PART OF HIGH-PROFILE PROJECTS, SOME INVOLVED VIP DRESSING AND BEING PART OF PROJECTS FOR THE DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGE”

could with the opportunities I took and worked

under the impression that I would not have much of a chance because I didn’t go to a top London fashion school that cost lots of money or have multiple internships and loads of ‘contacts’ in the industry - I practically had zero. But none of that ever mattered, it was all about being present and reliable for my team.

In my experience, employers want people who are enthusiastic and always willing to assist in any way.

Don’t ‘turn your nose up’ at jobs that you feel like are not in your job description but do be

hard at my course. I knew for sure there would

willing to help other team members.

be so many people out there with way more experience - but I had the

Also having the assertiveness to be present and assist in important

passion for the role.

meetings in the showroom, sometimes with Marco Gobetti the CEO,

Knowing what you want to do helps but is not essential. If you come across

Ricardo Tisci the Creative Director and Judy Collinson the chief

as confident about your interests and abilities, then people will have faith

merchandising officer. All of that enthusiasm and excitement to learn, will

and want to help you. I found this recently in my role.

get you far and get you noticed within other teams.

Having the courage to contact people from other departments and ask

Keep your experience relevant as much as you can. It’s slightly trickier

them to spare fifteen minutes to talk about their role will give you a

in Aberdeen but retail is a good way to start. Also, talk to your lecturers,

greater insight into job opportunities, especially since every company does

discuss your aspirations with them and take part in any initiatives that the

things differently.”

university has to offer.”

You had to relocate to London, was this frightening and do you feel that

When you began further education, could you have predicted that you

you have settled, despite being from a small city?

would have been as

“To be honest it was something I had wanted to do since I can remember.

successful as you are

I’ve always loved a fast-paced life and wanted to move somewhere that

now?

would push me to progress. I was not entirely sure what I wanted to do

“Definitely not, although

but coming from a creative background I used to think design is where I

I was always hopeful

would advance.

that my hard work

I am proud of myself for how I have handled my transition to London. The

would eventually pay

placement I completed was for three months and I stayed in a flat in West

off. I am nowhere near

London. I think overall the hardest part is having to stand on your own two

where I would like to

feet and throw yourself into unfamiliar situations.

be, but I am proud of

I remember my interview at Burberry too, I flew down myself and tried to

where I am after only

navigate my way around, which was scary enough. I was excited to get the

graduating in June

chance to visit the HQ but didn’t hold much hope for the role.

2019.

Nevertheless, everything has been great so far. There are times when it’s

It’s quite amusing; I

tough, but my confidence has definitely grown in so many facets of the

remember sitting in

industry.”

university at the back of the class in first year.

Are there certain aspects of your degree at university that have shaped

Our course leader was

the way you work in the fashion industry today? Possibly placement for

talking about where

example?

previous students were

“When I was in my third year, I completed a placement with Jenny

now after completing

Packham the eveningwear designer. My role was the PR and marketing

the Fashion Management course. One of the slides said someone currently

assistant, but I was part of a small team of five in a very fast paced press

worked at Burberry. I turned to my friend and said something like how on

office. Some days I didn’t have breaks and it was really crazy.

earth is she doing that or ‘good one’. I genuinely did not ever see that as

I sourced this placement myself and it was the most beneficial, interesting,

possible.

and amazing experience. I got to be part of high-profile projects, some

I am not in my dream role now, but just being part of the business,

involved VIP dressing and being part of projects for the Duchess of

watching amazing initiatives and projects in the showroom, keeps me

Cambridge. I could talk about it for hours; it really was so tough but so

motivated to grow. The student that our course leader mentioned still

rewarding.”

works in digital samples and I get to work with her quite often.”

Have you noticed a difference in working culture when comparing London

Laura was keen to progress in public relations for a luxury brand and

to Aberdeen?

thought she would steer in that direction after graduating. However,

“Definitely. I worked in retail for six years in Aberdeen while I studied at

since working with different teams at Burberry she has taken an interest

college and university. My roles were in sales and styling at Topshop,

in more of a merchandising role. Assisting with models and working

Topman, Skinny Dip and Jigsaw.

with the menswear team in the showroom, has led Laura to develop an

I guess it’s the whole ‘big city mentality’. Things are more intense (in

attentiveness for merchandising and collection reviews. Whilst advancing

London), and I feel like I must think on my feet a lot. Everything was a lot

her career with the brand, she intends to continue to build relationships

easier at home, but I was always keen to get out and do more!”

with Burberry’s tightknit teams and await opportunities in the near future.

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Photographer & Stylist: Leah Ritchie Model: Raegan Moir Jumper Dress: River Island Shoes: Missguided £13.20

The Neutral Edit

Step out in style this season with a colour palette that never goes wrong!

Model: Nicole Urquhart Shirt Dress: PrettyLittleThing £22 Knitted Vest: PrettyLittleThing £16 Boots: PrettyLittleThing £45 Glasses: Model’s Own

Shirt Dress: PrettyLittleThing £22 Knitted Vest: PrettyLittleThing £16 Hat: Missguided £10.80 Chain: PrettyLittleThing £6 Shoes: Model’s Own 17

Bodysuit: Missguided £19.80 Sweatshirt: Missguided £22.50 Trousers: Missguided £25.20 Chain: PrettyLittleThing £6 Shoes: Model’s Own

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19

New Look £35.99

River Island £65 Miss Selfridge £25

River Island £36

M&S £10

Dune London £175

River Island £65

Suited and Booted Created by Kirsten Henderson

Glam up your 9 to 5 blazer with some added height!

Oliver Bonas £18 Oliver Bonas £24 Primark £17

River Island £32

Miss Selfridge £59

M&S £119

Miss Selfridge £45 TK Maxx £49.99

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THE TIMES An inquiry into the dying art of commuting, office jobs, and suits, paving the way for a society that works from home.

Suit - Tom English Coat - Vintage T-shirt - Zara Jewellery - Accessorize Trainers - Nasty Gal 22

Photography & styling - Lucia Moncur Model - Iona Grant

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secon

buy sustainably, live excessively h e d

and styl

Modelled by James Taylor and Skye Henderson Styled and photographed by Molly Kennedy

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JAMES WEARS: Shirt - Collusion Sweater vest - Depop Trousers - Charity shop Jacket - Charity shop Belt - Next Glasses - Depop

SKYE WEARS: Shirt - Collusion Sweater vest - Charity shop Jeans - ASOS Shoes - Dr. Martens Jewellery - Topshop 25

SKYE WEARS: Shirt - Depop Crop top - Zara Trousers - Depop Shoes - Dr. Martens Jewellery - Topshop

JAMES WEARS: Shirt - Zara Trousers - Charity shop Shoes - Dr. Martens Glasses - Depop Watch - Casio, thrifted

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Models: Alessia Di Ponio & Ricardo Di Ponio Photographer: Aaliyah-Nicole Fleming Stylist: Aaliyah-Nicole Fleming & Igemelli Location: Botanic Gardens Dundee University

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

Straight Padded Blazer: NA-KD £56.95 Julia Fluid Trousers: NA-KD £45 28

NUD

Hooded Puffer: PrettyLittleThing £45 Ribbed Turtleneck Top: H&M £9.99 Balloon Cord Pants: Olive £76 Oversized Beanie: ASOS £10

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Super Oversized Jogger: ASOS £25 Oversized Jumper: £18 Rings: Alerria £15

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Standard Hoodie: Weekday £30 Lian Fleece: Weekday £35 Standard Sweatpants: Weekday £25 Rings: Alerria £15

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ABERDEEN: WHERE URBAN MEETS NATURE

STYLIST & PHOTOGRAPHER: WIKTORIA OCIEPA MODELS: LAURIANA LUCHITA & BART GRABSKI

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COAT: M&S BLOUSE: URBAN OUTFITTERS TROUSERS: TOPSHOP TRAINERS: CONVERSE JEWELLERY: MODEL’S OWN

BEANIE HAT: ASOS HOODIE: BOHOOMAN SHORTS: BOHOOMAN JACKET: CHARITY SHOP TRAINERS: UMBRO GLASSES: MODEL’S OWN SOCKS: MODEL’S OWN

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HAT: PRIMARK SUNGLASSES: ASOS SHIRT: BOHOOMAN TROUSERS: BOHOOMAN JACKET: CHARITY SHOP BELT: ASOS SHOES: H&M

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FROM

Surprise Scouting TO Ruling Runways Even though his career came as a complete surprise to him, Jakob Zimny conquered the fashion industry with brilliance. At only 15 years of age, he was scouted on the streets of Düsseldorf, Germany. Since that day three years ago, the now 19 year old has worked with most of the high-end designers you could think of and turned runways all over the world upside down. I have questions for him!

Where and when were you scouted? How old were you?

I was scouted in June 2017, I started working at the age of 16. It was in the Königsallee in Düsseldorf, the same place Claudia Schiffer was scouted!

exhausting. But luckily, I am quite aware of what is happening and what could go wrong, so I try to anticipate and just let things happen.

What has been your nicest experience since you started modelling?

It’s the shows outside of Fashion Week. For example, if Dior or Prada organise a show in Miami, Tokyo or Shanghai, I really look forward to those trips. It’s fairly little work…one day fitting, one day show, and the rest of the week you can enjoy a great hotel with loads of other models in an exciting new city.

Where do you see potential for the industry to change? For example, the treatment of models on set?

The well-being of models on set is very important in my opinion. Brands need to make sure that their models are comfortable and have to provide food and drinks throughout the day, which isn’t always the case. So the industry could work a little more towards the models overall well being.

Many brands take great care of you and make sure you have everything you need.

As you were scouted back then, what were your initial thoughts? And had you ever thought about modelling at all?

I thought it was a scam, also I had never considered modelling before.

Do you feel that the industry has changed since you started?

There haven’t been any significant changes, I’ve just become more aware of what’s going on. However, since my debut the casts have become increasingly diverse.

You started modelling as you entered your final years in school.

Back then you were a good American Football player, too. How did you manage juggling all of these things at once?

It was quite hard with football as the risk of injury was so high. If I had a game and a show the week after, I couldn’t risk breaking a leg. So eventually I had to give it up. School on the other hand was fairly easy. My headmaster was very kind and let me do most of the jobs, even if they were during school times. My teachers weren’t too impressed, but I didn’t really care, as I had the headmaster’s blessing.

Is there a designer that you would love to work with? Shooting or runway, as you do both?

Yes, I do both. I’d have to think about who I haven’t worked with yet because I’ve actually already worked for the designers I’m keen on…

Who’s cool at the moment and for whom I was an option for a few times now, is Matthew M. Williams from Givenchy with Alyx. I like what he does and would really like to work with him.

What was your favourite job so far?

My favourite job was the Dior Pre-Fall show last year. It’s also one of my favourite looks ever.

What was your worst experience?

Hmm, the worst that has happened to me wasn’t exactly terrible. I mean I hear a lot of things, but I haven’t experienced anything bad. The only thing that I have noticed is that sometimes the teams don’t take care of you and that there is hardly any food on the set, or you don’t get a lot of breaks which is pretty

Prada Spring 2020 Menswear

Yes, but so is modelling at your level, and you still managed to do that?!

I mean there is just so much you can do as a model. You should always be polite and respectful to everyone you meet and show up on time. But whether you get a job or not is in the hands of the casting director.

In an interview with Models.com you said that your opinion on fashion has completely changed since you started modelling. Can you tell me a little bit about

Louis Vuitton Fall 2020 Menswear

Dior Men Pre Fall 2020, styled by Kim Jones

that and maybe how your style has developed?

I was really young when I did that interview but it’s true. You learn to appreciate people’s work more and see the art behind the designs. For myself, I’ve noticed that I have become way more selective with what I buy and wear and I tend to do more online shopping since most of the stuff I like can’t be found in stores.

How many countries did you get to visit during your modelling career, I’m sure your passport must be pretty full?

I was in Germany, France, Italy, Spain, England, USA, Japan and China. I think was all.

And what is your advice to look great after a long flight? You’ve probably had to rush from an airport to a job sometimes?

The good thing with big jobs in Japan or China is that you don’t have too much work. You arrive in a 5-Star hotel and have time to sort yourself out. But I have had jobs where I had to fly to London at 4am work all day and fly back in the evening.

That can get pretty exhausting.

How is it having to look good but being exhausted?

Photoshop and make-up help out a lot but to keep the energy level high throughout the entire day is the difficult part. But I like to spend as little time on the shoot as possible. If it’s possible to get there and back in one day I will always choose to do so. Sitting alone in a hotel is the worst part of the job.

What is your plan for your career, that is if you have one? How long would you like to continue modelling and what are your plans for after this?

I never really told myself “you’re a model now”. It was more that if I got a job, I took it and then everything was great. My mother always tells me that it could all pass in an instance, so I try not to get my hopes up too high. There are phases, like now with Corona, where I can go months without a job, and other times I’ll get loads. It’s more of a come and go. It’s very unreliable, but I’ll do the jobs as long as I keep getting them.

Can you see yourself working in fashion?

I don’t really have an idea on what I want to do. I just started studying American studies and Japanese studies in Frankfurt. It’s quite cool, especially learning to speak Japanese. But I’m mainly doing it so that I’m not wasting any time sitting at home waiting for a job. I don’t think the fashion industry is for me, but I’ll have to wait and see.

How are the jobs going during Corona? How is your agency dealing with it?

My agency was great, they continued to give me jobs. I am also lucky to have a great relationship with Hugo Boss. They like

hiring me and it’s just a two hour drive to a shoot. I think I’ve had 7 or 8 jobs with Hugo Boss just this year. I hope they carry on booking me.

Is there anything else you would like to say?

Modelling is hard work and has many up and downsides. It’s not a very steady job and it’s super competitive, but being able to do it and get all those insights into the fashion world is truly a blessing.

Would you recommend modelling?

If you really want it then try it and see how it goes, I can’t say too much about that! However, if you get scouted, you should definitely go for it. You learn a lot and get to experience how it is to work. The pay is great as well. If you handle it correctly there are only upsides!

Thank you to Jakob for making time to speak to our interviewer, Lilli Lang.

Interviewee: Jakob Zimny 37 Photos courtesy of Jakob Zimny Article by Lilli Lang May 22 - This article has been edited since its original publication.

Hoodie - Menance Los Angeles, £180 Trousers - CP Company, £220 Shoes - Nike Air Max 97 X Skepta, £160

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Photographer - Harry Christie Model - Ben Burnett Stylist - Harry Christie

SPLIT DECISIONS

If you cannot decide to stay under the radar or make a statement with your outfit then why not do both.

Taking inspiration from American streetwear the hoodie photographed provides the outfit with both sides of a low key and statement piece of clothing, worn with the trousers and shoes making it a stand out piece.

NEON NIGHT LIFE

This outfit brings an upbeat vibe to a nightlife streetwear look. The baggy proportions of the joggers mixed with the relaxed fit of the hoodie gives a laid back look and is perfect for wearing when going for some late night shopping or roaming the streets.

Hoodie - Helmut Lang, £260 Trousers - Burberry, £440 Shoes - Nike Air Max X Basement, £180 Bag - Burberry, £380

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Photographer - Harry Christie Model - Ben Burnett Stylist - Harry Christie

page by tony simms

EARTH TONES

Overshirt - Zara £35 Cargo pants - Zara £50 Hoody - Zara £30 Sneakers - Nike Air Force £90

GO BIG OR GO HOME

page by tony simms

His fit shows you can be stylish and comfy at the same time with minimal effort.

Classic screen print oversized t shirt with an acid wash to give you that real vintage feeling.

Iconic in hip hop history with Craftd London’s cuban chain that makes this fit hard.

T-shirt - Represent vintage T £25 Joggers - Zara £30 Sneakers - Nike Air Force £90 Watch - Nixon gold Chains - Craftd London cuban and small neck chain

page by tony simms Joggers - Nike £35 Sneakers - Nike x Saucai £199

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John Lewis & Partners Large Wall Clock £75 Michael Murphy Denver Armchair £543

Argos Home Black Cushion £12

Soho Home Large Decanter £130

House of Finn Juhl Eye Table £2182

The Modern Man Cave

So much more than just a shed or unloved room.

Escape for a few hours and relax with some friends or family in this luxurious space.

By Laura Murdie

Amara Silver Drinks Trolley £330

Christy Charcoal Cushion £20

Polaroid Camera £120

Nest Stainless Steel Football Table £4582

LuxDeco Bronze Lamp £1080

Oak Furnitureland Large TV Unit £499.99

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EVERYDAY STYLE Keeping casual with effortless pieces that don’t go out of style.

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Opposite page: Checkered Shirt - Hollister T-shirt - BoohooMAN Jeans - ASOS Bracelets - ASOS Boots - ASOS

This page: Hoodie - BoohooMAN Styled by: Lauren Rae Photographed by: Lauren Rae Model: Kyle Adams 47

something a bit

R U S T I C

Take the edge off and forget about minimalism by exploring a world of comfortable colours and crochet, alongside exciting textures like velvet and leather and prints like paisley. These textures and components bring together a feeling of warmth and cosiness that undoubtedly many have been craving lately. Having your apartment look like it’s been decorated by a happy, helpful hippie has never looked so good.

photo: Joe Browns, showcases items 2 and 7

1.

9.

5.

2.

6.

3.

8.

4.

7.

1. green crochet cushion, Amara £40 2. statement leaf cushion, Joe Browns £25 3. three pillow stack, The World In Cushions £119 4. brown leather couch, Sofology £1499 5. bronze elephant statue, George Home £15

6. woven round floor mat, Oliver Bonas £39.50 7. orange fleecy throw, Joe Browns £25 8. brass candle lantern, Lights4fun £47.99 9. macrame wall hanging, Oliver Bonas £65

by Jasmin Ihalainen 48

THE GREAT OUTDOORS City style in the Shire Photographed by Anna and Ellen Forsyth Styled by Anna Forsyth Models - Chloe Milne and Milo (the dog)

Top - Zara Skirt - Collusion Jacket - Topshop Sunglasses - Shein Boots - ASOS 49

Top - Zara Jacket - Zara Skort - Zara Boots - Nasty Gal Earrings - H&M Bag - Shein 50

Top - PrettyLittleThing Shorts - PrettyLittleThing Jacket - ASOS Boots - Chloé Sunglasses - PrettyLittleThing Earrings - H&M Bag - Vintage 51

STYLING, HAIR, MAKEUP & PHOTOGRAPHY: EVELYN KOKKA MODELLING: MARIA MANOURA & STEFANIA MANOURA

Countryside

Escape

STEFANIA WEARS: DRESS - URBAN £29 54

MARIA WEARS: DRESS - STRADIVARIUS £15 55

STEFANIA WEARS: CARDIGAN £16 TROUSERS £16 TOP £4 ALL STRADIVARIUS HAT - MODEL’S OWN 56

MARIA WEARS: CARDIGAN £20 TROUSERS £16 TOP £4 ALLSTRADIVARIUS

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Ol i

psuit £40 Soft Lounge Jum Super

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Figle ave s

emask £12.50 as Ey Bon

TK M axx T

By Chloe Milne i el P rav

.99 llow £9

ver y.co .uk

Cones & Rods Gibran Sunglasses Silver/Mirror £363

Adi d

as T rain ers £ 7

0

ready for

TAKEOFF

Bottle Matt Black £5 ater Wilko W

Stylish, yet comfortable, travel essentials for your flight and carry-on lugguage.

Bookaroo Travel Tech Tidy in Copper £20

un

e London Deightons

Cam el B ag £

0 15

D Live In The Light Restore Skincare Travel Box £44.95

1.

botanical bliss 2.

By MOLLY KENNEDY

BRING NATURE INDOORS WITH BOTANICAL INSPIRED HOMEWARE

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4.

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7.

1. Braided Belly Lampshade, Ferm Living, £125 2. Kotak Rattan Mirror, Oliver Bonas, £78 3. Artificial Cactus, Next, £150 4. Tienda Sideboard, Oliver Bonas, £595 5. Dusty Pink Loveseat, Oliver Bonas £645 6. Cacti Book, Oliver Bonas, £8.99 7. Urban Botanics, Oliver Bonas, £20 8. The New Plant Parent, Oliver Bonas, £17.99 9. Aroma Diffuser, Oliver Bonas, £45 10. Chest of Drawers, Oliver Bonas, £495

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11. Rattan Peacock Chair, Oliver Bonas, £245 12. Gluggle Jug, Oliver Bonas, £35 13. Plant Stand, Cuckooland.com, £49 14. Jute Oval Mat, Oliver Bonas, £26.50 59

Add sophistication to your everyday wear MODEL- Alan Walker PHOTOGRAPHE AND STYLIST- Kirsten Henderson LOCATION- Duffus Castle, Moray

Top it off with Tweed

Al tweed garments kindly supplied by Great Scot

Jacket- Great Scot £150 Jeans- New Look £29.

Top- New Look Boots- New Look Jewellery- Model’s own

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Dress: La Sposa £1,800 Boots: Ariat Longboots £149

STEP INSIDE YOUR FANTASY WHAT LIES BEYOND

Photographers: Evie Gray and Peter Brownsmith Models: Baleigh Brownsmith and Harry Stylist: Leigh Brownsmith Hair and Make-up: Baleigh Brownsmith

Coat: Queen Of Darkness £100 Jeans: New Look £15.99 Boots: Ariat Longboots £149 Hat: Model’s Own

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Dress: Prom Dress £150

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An Interview with Pamela Fraser Designs Interview by Laura Murdie

Find out all you need to know about the process of getting your very own wedding dress individually designed so that no other bride will ever have the same dress as you Pamela Fraser Designs is a Scottish wedding dress designer based in Angus, Scotland. Focusing on the perfect garment, Pamela ensures every dress that she designs is individual and one of a kind for all her brides. Due to the individual service Pamela is giving, the bride is encouraged to be as involved as they would like with the process so that their dress reflects their personality and style.

Pamela is self-employed and runs the business by herself in her studio where she designs and makes her gowns. This is also where clients come for appointments to discuss their dream dress and try it on as it comes together.

These fittings allow her to first make a toile, which is a mock up style dress made of cotton. This is to make sure the dress fits perfectly to the bride’s body before using any silk or expensive materials, saving costs and not wasting valuable silk. This also is the perfect time to change any style choices, e.g. a different neckline or sleeve length rather than further down the line.

As well as individually designed dresses, Pamela also has a collection of garments which are available to buy or use as inspiration when creating your own dress.

it was cheaper to get clothes made in the Far East so the company I worked for could not compete on price and so the factory was forced to close. I took this as an opportunity to use my redundancy money to start my own business.

I enjoyed everything I worked on in the design room but after seven years it was time for me to move away from mass production to a more one-to-one design focused business.

While I was still working in mass production I had already started to make wedding dresses so I was beginning to move in the direction of my future business.

1. When did you first set up your business and why?

I started my business in January 1990. When I first qualified from SCOT (was Scottish College of Textiles now Heriot Watt University Galashiels campus) I wanted to start my own business but everyone advised me to work in industry first. I followed their advice and worked in a design room for seven years where I designed children’s clothing for high street stores and gained great experience. But at this time

2. What was the reason you wanted to go into the wedding dress business?

I wanted to go into the wedding dress business as it just seemed to be a natural fit for me. As a teenager I loved to sew and make my own clothes. My mum always made me amazing pieces so I think I got the bug from her. I also liked to draw and colour intricate design patterns. I have always been interested in dresses whether day or evening dresses with impressive details such as beading or stitch work. I love being able to sketch a dress, make the pattern for it and then go through the process of making it. Therefore, I thought it was a good idea to start a business using my skills and doing something I loved to do. I chose wedding dresses as I felt customers would pay for having a bespoke wedding dress made rather than everyday clothing. People have got so used to getting clothes made so cheaply that I felt the business would not survive on casual wear alone. As

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the clothing industry was in decline in the 1990s, there was suit individual customers and their skin tones. You must also a market for having wedding dresses individually designed be able to work out the cost of bespoke outfits. and made in Scotland and I wanted to offer that service.

7. How do you stay up to date regarding fashion within 3. What is your favourite thing about your job? your designs?

I love the one-to-one contact with my brides from the initial I stay up to date with fashion by being aware of what is chat about their design ideas for their wedding dress, to happening in the industry. There is so much information going through the whole process to the finished dress and about fashion you can find through looking at catwalk shows, seeing the joy in their face at that stage. magazines, red Everyone has their own idea of their carpet outfits, there are some more unusual perfect wedding so it is such a treat to what celebrities be involved making the dress fit their are wearing and fabrics that are new to the ideas. It is such an inspiration to keep specific wedding market made from sustainable making more wedding dresses. designer shows. I I love to show brides all the fabrics and also like to keep up products. For example, some laces which are available to suit their to date with all the are even using rose petals and new fabrics which dress style. At this stage, I can show them different qualities of fabrics to suit produced orange citrus juice by-products are their individual dress budget. I think and they give me this is a great option to offer as some inspiration to use people think a bespoke dress will be out of their budget, in new designs. The brides can also keep me up to date with but I love to be able to show them that, if they choose, for fashion as many have researched a lot of dresses before example, a polyester and silk mix rather than a 100% silk they come to me so they show me some up to date styles fabric, it could fit their budget. they personally like. As my signature style is not fast fashion I love the process of making a toile which is made to fit there is not the same short life span for these dresses. the dress to the individual bride so it is like moulding it to individual body shapes.

8. Sustainability is a key trend right now. In your line of work, what measures are you taking to be more 4. What training did you go through to become a environmentally friendly? designer?

At the present time I am seeing amazing eco-friendly laces As previously mentioned, I loved to sew as a child and then and fabrics being produced and available to buy from my at school I did my Highers which included Art and Fabrics & suppliers which is very exciting. Many manufacturers are Fashion which gave me a taster to see what I was getting now turning to recycled polyesters and viscose meaning that into. I went to the Scottish College of Textiles, now Heriot old, unused fabrics are being turned into something new and Watt university campus, in Galashiels. I did a four-year fresh giving it a new lease of life. On the other hand, there course which covered design, pattern cutting, marketing, are some more unusual fabrics that are new to the market garment making, economics and statistics, production made from sustainable products. For example, some are management and knowledge of textiles. As part of the even using rose petals and orange citrus juice by-products course we had to go out into industry for two placements which is quite hard to comprehend but it is the way forward! where I earned invaluable experience.

I am looking forward to promoting them to my brides to use This course was such a good grounding for all aspects in their bespoke dresses and use them in my collection to required to start up your own business. It also suited me see how they perform as fabrics. I am also promoting the as I wanted to have the skills to not only draw an outfit but fact you can have a dress designed and made in Scotland to be able to bring the outfit to life through pattern cutting with no long waits for dresses to come from abroad reducing and garment making. Just before I started my business, I air miles being more environmentally friendly which is an also did a business start-up course where I worked out a added bonus. business plan to help me structure my company and help me stay on track with costs.

6. What skills according to you are necessary to become a successful fashion designer?

As a designer you need to be a good listener to interpret what the customer is looking for and be able to guide them to a design which will suit their personality and their body shape. You need to have a good knowledge of fabrics so you can advise which will suit specific designs. You need to have the skills to be able to sketch out ideas, produce patterns and make the dress or be able to tell someone how to make it. You need to have a good eye for colour and which colours 69

Photographs by Emilie Gray

5. How would you describe your signature design style?

My signature style is elegant and classic with a modern twist using good quality silks and man-made fabrics. The way the dress fits and suits the individual body shape is a big part of my signature style. I like simple clean lines with interesting detailing on my dresses. When I am using beautiful fabrics and laces, I want to show them off to their best.

Annie wears: Violette gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £870

NOT YET at the Altar Waiting for the big day, but stronger than ever

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Annie wears: Ava gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1400

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Annie wears: Daisy gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1250

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Erin wears: Millie gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £1500

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Tiaras: Greypuss Jewellery Rest of jewellery: Models’ and Stylist’s own Shoes: Models’ own

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Photographed and Styled by Laura Murdie Models: Annie Scott & Erin Mitchell Hair and Makeup: Annie Voigt Location: Turin Castle

Erin wears: Eloise bridesmaids gown by Pamela Fraser Designs £350 75

ONCE UPON A DREAM Release your inner princess and Sparkle through life

Photographer: Robert Traynor Model: Lisa Sinead Tobin

White crop jumper, £12, H&M Pink skirt, Made by model Slogan tee, Charity shop 77

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Gold dress, €500, Morilee by Madeline Gardner Coat, €150, Vintage Karen Millen Shoes, €87, Karen Millen 79

ERIC CHOONG

An interview with a seasoned Malaysian fashion designer about his journey and craft written by Laurabelle Ng

E

ric Choong, iconic Malaysian fashion designer and college professor, is known for his integration of traditional ethnic elements into his designs helping others recognise the beauty of his Southeast Asian roots.

In 2018, he not only celebrated 30 years of designing and crafting in the fashion industry but was also acknowledged by the Malaysian Global Chamber of Commerce for his contributions.

His journey into the fashion industry started when he was very young; creating sketches and designs before even starting his secondary education.

His passion for the art and support of his mother allowed him to pursue his love for fashion.

After completing his studies in the Hong Kong Institute of Fashion Design in 1986, he further polished his craft before opening his label ‘Eric Choong’ in 1988.

His debut into the Malaysian fashion scene was very well received, leading him to be nominated by the Malaysian Tourism Board as one of the country’s top 10 fashion designers for three years in a row.

Eric’s success did not stop there, he was not only continuously invited to participate and represent Malaysia in various fashion shows across Asia, but also requested in collaborations with famous luxury brands and media titles.

In the 2000s, Eric was commissioned by the founder of ‘PENYAYANG’, a charitable foundation launched to aid the less

fortunate, to help raise funds and awareness about Malaysian batik and culture. Batik is a wax-resist dyeing technique which traditionally features floral motifs and bright colours. By studying its details and craftmanship, he was able to successfully introduce this centuriesold art into the modern world and nominated one of Malaysia’s top batik designers by the publishers of the book ‘Batik Inspirations’.

I was fortunate to guarantee an interview with Eric to not only ask

about his journey as a designer, but his relationship with the alluring fabric called batik.

Hi Eric, thank you for granting me this interview and discussing your work.

What inspired you to become the designer you are today?

My mother. She was a hair and make-up artist and has been my muse, cheerleader and mentor since I was born. She would always have multiple imported magazines from Hong Kong and Japan laying around the house which I would flip through and eventually gain my fascination for clothes and design.

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How did your brand start out, and what was the turning point which made you interested in batik?

That’s an old story. I started my brand more than 30 years ago, when I was 24 years old. After graduating and returning to Malaysia, I started off as a wedding gown designer and branched out into haute couture bridalwear, followed by cocktail and corporate designs. In order to help my clients achieve their dream wedding, I expanded my label to include ‘Eric Choong Flowers’, a floral design service.

About 15 years ago, I was asked by the late Tun Endon Mahmood, wife of Malaysia’s former Prime Minister, loyal client and batik enthusiast, to include batik in garment designs such as baju kurung (traditional Malay costume) for her. Before her passing, she asked that I continue including batik in my designs and make it my priority to introduce and promote it to the international stage. Since then, I have always been representing Malaysia and going to China, Paris, Thailand, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Japan to promote my Batik collections in exhibitions and fashion shows.

What would you say is the most challenging aspect behind the creation and usage of batik?

When thinking about challenges, I like to ask myself questions. How to transform the old design and patterns, changing the preconceived pattern and design everyone has about batik? How do I transform the mindset of the public, that batik is only meant for formal functions in Malaysia? Malaysians don’t wear it for parties unless it is a specified theme

by the host, can I make it a part of their everyday wardrobe? Putting old patterns with new ideas, what new and trendy design can I make with this? These would be my biggest challenges and I enjoy it, as it is also very interesting for me.

Can you explain the thought process behind your collections?

I enjoy making things from scratch.

I feel that handmade things have the temperature of the craftsman’s skillful hands. That being said, I start with my theme, what inspires me at the moment.

Then I think about the shapes and silhouettes that I want to create, and how this will be enhanced and translated into the batik pattern. I work with batik designers to figure out how we will make these pieces come to life. It is a long but fun and rewarding process from beginning to end.

What would you say has been the highlight of your career so far?

I have two. The first was being invited by some of the ASEAN countries such as China, Thailand and Vietnam, to do workshops and share with the public about how we can innovate the creation and patterns of batik. The second was becoming a lecturer at ESMOD Kuala Lumpur, and sharing my skills, knowledge and experiences in the fashion industry over the past 30 years with the younger generations. I think this was one of my greatest achievements and exciting moments in my life.

How do you manage your time between teaching and managing your brand?

I would say it is an even split of 50/50 teaching and working on my brand. Most of my brand related work are consultant and mentor jobs for batik. One of them would be working with Thailand’s Ministry of culture, and their batik designers to create amazing batik pieces

for collections to promote batik around the world on behalf of the ASEAN countries.

Sustainable and ethical fashion is a growing trend nowadays. Have you been able to incorporate that into your designs, and how have you done so?

Since the beginning of 2020, I have been trying to use natural dyes. I have been trying my best to use eco-friendly dyes made from flowers, plants, and chemical-free dyes to produce tie-dyes and batik prints. Recently, I have also started painting, and have been making use of fabric remnants, the small leftover pieces from making garments in making art pieces. Of course, I try transforming these small scraps of fabrics with natural dyes before incorporating them into my paintings.

As a lecturer, I have also been encouraging my students to design recycling fashion and collections.

Have you questioned your decision to become a designer?

Never! I think since I came out of my mother, I was a designer. My mother used to tell me that I used to draw with anything I could get my hands on, be it the wall, a piece of paper or the floor. I was born to be a designer! Fashion was not the most conventional choice of profession for any Malaysian boy back then. My father was against my decision, but as I have mentioned earlier, my mother has continuously encouraged and inspired me to be a designer and I still have passion for fashion. If I didn’t, I would not have become a lecturer and continue teaching about it.

What do you hope to achieve in the future?

I hope to stimulate the creative and cultural industry in Malaysia. For me, this industry is like an enormous forest

“Never! I was born to be a designer”

which most Malaysians only recognise only one of its trees, the production chain. I want others to realise its creative value which ideally, should be casual and practiced routinely as part of our daily lives.

Any advice for young and upcoming designers that would like to start their own brand?

Firstly, if you are studying fashion now, learn as many skills as you can from your lecturers to get a good foundation.

When you are done with your studies there is even more to learn from society, things you cannot learn in school such as good character and personality.

This is something I always tell my students. Another thing is to have the passion for what you do, without this you can’t continue on. You cannot stop striving to be the best and exploring the opportunities available. As you know, in fashion you can be in one day, and the next day you are out. If you stop, someone will easily climb up and take your place.

Lastly, you need to have an open mind and good attitude. Being stubborn and arrogant, thinking you are the best in the world will get you nowhere as you will stop moving forward from that point on.

Follow Eric Choong on Instagram @ericchoongofficial, Facebook: Eric Choong, Portfolio: www.ericchoong.com.

Find out more about Malaysian Batik at www.mybatik.org.my

Downtown Beirut

The Beirut Explosion and its Effects on the Lebanese Fashion Industry

A corrupt government, a failing economy, decades of war and now a demolished capital city, the Lebanese fashion industry has been rocked by one too many disasters.

W

hen people think of fashionable locations, cities such as Paris, New York, London and Milan will usually come to mind, however there is one gem in the Arab world that is often forgotten about.

The city of Beirut has long been known as the ‘Paris of the Middle East’, due to it being the hub of economic, social, intellectual, and cultural life in the Arab world, and despite decades of war and the negative impacts of a corrupt government, the city continued to be a unique and modern destination in the Middle East.

Dominated by a Haute Couture aesthetic and French influence, the city has established itself as a fashion capital in the Middle East and, over the past decade, Lebanese Fashion has been a main focus on the ready-to-wear and couture runways and on the red carpet all over the world. Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad, Georges Chakra and Tony Ward are just some of Lebanon’s natives, that also just so happen to be some of the world’s most celebrated designers, who annually show their collections during Paris fashion week and have dressed celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez. Many of Lebanon’s most recognisable designers are based in Beirut, and despite having such success internationally, still have their headquarters and atelier in Beirut.

The city has a uniqueness compared to many other popular fashion cities that

makes it stand out thanks to the mix of the modern and Westernised components.

With the old fashioned and traditional styles, Beirut is definitely an unmatched fashion destination. With the Lebanese fashion industry continuing to grow stronger in the city, there has even been talks of Beirut having its own Fashion week in the future. It seemed like Beirut had a bright future ahead of itself in terms of Fashion.

However, 2020 brought devastation for Beirut. Not only has the country had to deal with the impacts of the coronavirus, but a corrupt government and collapsing economy had already been disastrous for the city and its fashion industry. In August an explosion in the city’s port devastated the country, and caused severe damage and destruction, and killed over 200 people.

What started as a small fire in Warehouse 12 at Beirut’s main port, caused by ammonium nitrate, soon turned into two massive explosions that instantly ruined the city. The blame had been put on the government, who had already been viewed in an extremely negative manner by the public due to their neglect and lack of care for the country. The Lebanese people were in extreme rage, rightfully so, as not only was the city completely overwhelmed and damaged beyond repair, but Beirut’s once thriving fashion sector had been annihilated. A majority of Beirut’s most celebrated and up-and-coming designers 82

had either their offices, boutiques or atelier completely wrecked. Years of hard work and dedication had been destroyed within moments.

Zuhair Murad, one of Lebanon’s most successful and recognisable designers, had headquarters located just under 800m from where the explosion occurred and although the designer and his hundreds of staff, working in the building at the time, were lucky enough to avoid injury, Murad lost almost all of his archive of 20 years, his future couture and ready-to-wear collections and bridal gowns for clients. He took to his Instagram to show his followers the ruins that were left of his headquarters, and expressed his sadness and devastation He showed his appreciation for all the support of his family, fans and admirers, but was still left in absolute shock at what had happened to his years of hard work and dedication, and how the lives of hundreds of members of his staff had been put in danger.

Probably Lebanon’s most globally celebrated fashion house Elie Saab was also extremely affected by the blast. Despite being located on Wadi Abou Jmiel Street, almost 3 miles away from the blast, Elie Saab’s headquarters, studio and the homes of Elie Saab and Elie Saab Jr. also faced serve damage and destruction, taking almost a month to repair. Again, the employees of Elie Saab were lucky and only suffered minor injuries, however this

Beirut’s port after the explosion

wasn’t the case for eveyone. and history of the country despite all the craftsmanship we have there.”

After showing several collections at Paris hardships they’ve faced.

Saab Jr’s father built his company Fashion Week, couturier Rabih Kayrouz So what does this mean for the future from the ground up during the Lebanese opened his headquarters including an of Beirut and its internationally acclaimed civil war, so it seems he is following atelier, couture salon and ready-to-wear fashion industry? Not only is the city in his Father’s footsteps in continuing store, just last year on Rue Gouraud, trying its best to get the city to back to its to be strong and brave no matter the however, now the building has turned former beauty, but the members of the circumstance. to rubble, and the designer took to his Lebanese fashion industry are looking to Zuhair Murad is also playing a large social media to show video footage of move forward from this disaster to an even part in helping the industry get back the destruction of brighter and more on its feet. He has stated, despite all the his building and the trauma, he will be prepared to launch “We want to do whatever successful future, extreme head injuries reminding everyone his spring summer 2021 collection, and we can to support the he sustained from the of the Lebanese him and his team will continue to design explosion, including a people’s strength and from their homes and temporary studios, Lebanese people...” brain haemorrhage, 2 dynamism. whilst their headquarters are rebuilt. He blood clots and 22 stitches.

Elie Saab Jr, the CEO of his Father’s has also been making effort to help and During an already extremely tough and company has said that despite all the show signs of solidarity with the citizens trying year for the country and its Fashion suffering and destruction, the Elie Saab of Beirut by donating large amounts industry, the blast that occurred on August brand would always remain in Lebanon, to the Lebanese Red Cross and other 4th pushed the country over the edge. and the company will go on making all charities who are helping to rebuild their The collapsing economy, that made the the amendments to help get business back city. Unity and hope is something that all Lebanese Lira loose 80% of its worth, had to normal and help of these designers already made the demand for Lebanese give the people of have, regardless of “...to be inspired by designer goods drop severely, both in the Beirut hope that everything they’ve Lebanon, to keep nurturing been through, and country and worldwide, and now with the their city will be damage caused by the explosion, it would great again, despite the talent and craftsmanship everything else they seem impossible for the Lebanese fashion having virtually may possibly have to we have there.” industry to recover, especially in a city no help or support endure in the future. where creative businesses are such a key from the Lebanese Despite the component of helping keep the country’s Government. In his own words, “It’s how political situation and destruction, the culture alive. we function and how we have lived for Lebanese fashion industry is showing they But Lebanon is no stranger to having the past 30, 40 years. At the end of the don’t give up easily, and they are extremely pull through from such disasters. Decades day, we have a presence and important dedicated to helping the fashion industry of war and foreign interference, corruption craftsmanship. We want to do whatever and country. No matter what gets thrown and their capital city being rebuilt we can to support the Lebanese people at the people of Lebanon, it’s clear they will seven times have taught the Lebanese and maintain our cause and mission, to never give up their pride and unity. to persevere through the toughest times be inspired by Lebanon, to see it grow and come together to show the beauty and to keep nurturing the talent and

By Alia Bedawi

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BY LUCIA MONCUR

It’s Saturday night - time to put on your dancing shoes and let loose. But wait, the club’s shut?

Why not get down at home by adding some 70s inspired disco decor to your pad.

Party on.

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STYLED BY KENAH TOSH

Looking Luxe For Less

Affordable everyday styles

Jacket: Bershka £29.99 Top: Zara £15 Jeans: Topshop £40 Bag: I Saw It First 318 Boots: Boohoo £31 Necklace: ASOS £6

Models: Louise Rae and Jayde Low Photographer: Katie Anderson Stylist: Katie Anderson

Shirt: Zara £25.99 Top: In The Style £7.99 Leggings: Topshop £19 Trainers: Nike £95

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Jacket: New Look £56 Top: Miss Selfridge £12 Shorts: PrettyLittleThing £15 Boots: Boohoo £31 Bag: ASOS £11.99 Necklace: Bymehshake £9.99

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Utility vest: ASOS £35 Jumper: I Saw It First £20 Shorts: Primark £8 Shirt: PrettyLittleThing £25 Trainers: Nike £95

Blazer: PrettyLittleThing £35 Jumper: I Saw It First £20 Jeans: Topshop £40 Boots: JustFab £35 Bag: ASOS £22

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Blazer: Zara £30 Top: Bershka £12 Trousers: Oh Polly £32 Belt: PrettyLittleThing £8 Boots: Dr. Martens £170 Bag: ASOS £45 Necklace: ASOS £12

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Ryan wears: Jacket - Jessica Blazer - Religion Jeans - River Island Shoes - Converse Jenny wears: Jacket - The Red Cross Dress- PrettyLittleThing Shoes - Stan Smiths

The Autumn Trance

Photographer: Ellie Lyon Models: Jenny Dougal & Ryan Henry

Ryan wears: Leather Jacket - Helium Jenny wears: Faux Fur Jacket - Zara Skirt- Oasis

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Ryan wears: Jacket - Topshop Suit - Hart & Dagger

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The Retro Rewind A flashback to fashion before our time.

Stylist and Photographer Kirsty Jane Thompson Models Nicola Ryan, James Carter and Nina Hamilton

Nina I Saw It First skirt PrettyLittleThing sunglasses Marks and Spencer tights Primark headband PrettyLittleThing bag Zara boots Zara top

Nicki I Saw It First skirt PrettyLittleThing sunglasses Marks and Spencer tights ASOS bag Schuh boots Primark headband

James Primark turtleneck Topman jeans Adidas trainers Topman glasses

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The 90s Edit

Romessa Wears: Blouse: Primark (£13) Sweater: Missy Empire (£25) Jeans: ASOS Design (£25) Shoes: JD Sports - Nike Air Force 1 (£80) Sunglasses: Shein (£4.99) Bag: Primark

Bringing Back 90s Inspired Fashion with a Modern Twist

Photographer & Stylist - Laareb Ahmer Models - Romessa Ahmer & Asim Anwar Location - Dundee V&A, Caird Hall 98

Asim Wears: Shirt: H&M (£19.99) Jumper: Topman (£25) Jeans: Levi’s (£60) Shoes: ASOS - Dr. Martens (£180) Bucket Hat: Primark (£3) Sunglasses: Primark (£3) Belt: ASOS (£15)

Romessa Wears: White Top: Primark Plaid Shirt: Boohoo (£18) Jeans: Missguided (£28) Shoes: Office - Nike Air Force 1 (£84.99) Bag: ASOS Design (£16) Bucket Hat: ASOS Design (£8) Jewellery: ASOS 100

Romessa Wears: High Neck Top: ASOS - Stradivarius (£12.99) Blazer: H&M (£25) Wide Leg Jeans: Monki (£40) Boots: Model’s own Necklaces: Shein (£3.49) Sunglasses: Model’s Own Shoulder Bag: Shein (£8.99)

Asim Wears: White Top: Topman (£15) Dungarees: ASOS - Dickies (£80) Shoes: Footasylum - Nike Air Force 1 (£89.99) Sunglasses: ASOS - Noisy May (£9.00) 101

The Beginner’s Guide to

With 150 people in the UK being diagnosed with breast cancer every day, it’s important that we, as a society, celebrate, care for, and check our own boobs.

Breast cancer is the most common Despite having a much lower chance Abnormalities you should be cancer in the UK, affecting over 55,000 of being diagnosed with breast cancer, looking out for include: a change in people every year. Cancer research it’s important that people who were shape, size or outline; a change in the is always evolving, but without a cure assigned male at birth check monthly feel of your skin, for example dimpling; a it still has the ability to affect anyone, too. Typically having less breast tissue lump that doesn’t appear symmetrically; regardless of their gender. It is most to work with, it should take a fraction of unusual nipple discharge or bleeding; a common in those assigned female the time. red and moist area on your nipple that There isn’t an absolute guide to doesn’t heal; change in nipple direction, at birth, with 1 in 7 being diagnosed at some point during their for example being constantly lifetime. That’s not to say that Diagnosis in the early stage has a 98% inverted; any pain or those assigned male at birth survival rate compared to diagnosis in discomfort that is prolonged can’t get it, and no matter (information from the NHS the later stages dropping to 26%. who you are it is important and Coppafeel! charity). to check your breasts at least once a checking your boobs, but to ensure you month. Research shows that diagnosis don’t miss anything, just follow these Breast cancer screenings are in the early stage has a 98% survival handy steps: available but are only offered every 3 rate (of 5 years or more) compared to years to those over 50, whereas breast 1.

Understand what your breasts cancer can affect anyone of any age. diagnosis in the later stages dropping to 26% survival rate (of 5 years or more). usually feel like over the course of a The moment you start to develop breast With everyone owning their month. There are many factors that tissue – which happens at a young age own set of breasts, they should be people face – especially folk who are – you are at risk. Even if you receive celebrated and cared for. Big or small, assigned female at birth – during a the mammograms, breast screening, checking monthly is vital to ensure 4-week cycle, and it’s important to it is important to check your breasts any abnormalities get checked out as know what’s a period boob versus a between appointments. The disease early as possible. Checking your boobs potential breast cancer risk. isn’t necessarily hereditary either, with 2.

Raise both arms and look at less than 10% of cases due to family needn’t be a chore, either. The easiest way to check them is to incorporate your boobs in a mirror, turn to examine history. checking them into your shower routine all angles of the breast – including the as the water makes your hand move armpit area – note any abnormalities.

If you do find an abnormality you 3.

Lower one arm, and with this need to make an appointment with your effortlessly over your skin, but it can be done any moment of your day. You using the pads of your fingers, with a GP as soon as you can. It’s important could check before getting dressed for gentle yet firm press, slide along the to get it seen by a professional sooner the day; just before getting into bed surface of your boob, from the base rather than later – even if ends up for the night; in the middle of a Netflix of the armpit, sweep under, over and being benign. At this appointment marathon. You know your own boobs just below the collar bone – note any your GP will examine your breasts and better than anyone else, but there is abnormalities. determine if you need to be referred to 4.

Swap arms and repeat step 3 a breast clinic or not. Being referred nothing stopping you from having a on your other breast. friend or partner help you out! is not saying that you definitely have 102

Image by Lane Craigie

Boobs

Image by Lane Craigie

It’s important to celebrate your boobs, no matter what they look like.

Whether you’ve had a single or double mastectomy from breast cancer, or top surgery for transitioning; or if you’ve got vitiligo or lots of freckles; or if you have tattoos or piercings; every boob is valid.

As everyone has breasts, it’s important to understand that they are not inherently sexual. They are lumps of fat and tissue. The only difference being some people have bigger ones than others, and some people are able to breast feed from theirs. Removing the stigma that surrounds “female” breasts and nipples is a key stage to normalising the monthly boob check. It is a way that will allow people who were assigned male at birth to understand the importance of checking, and the risk they are at of breast cancer as well. By detaching our preconceived notions of boob = sex, we will be able to show breasts and nipples on media in an informative and educational way, without people being disgusted or ashamed.

With breast cancer being a very 103

Image courtesy of @theboobpotcompany serious topic, it’s important for us to look at the lighter side of things, appreciating our breasts and taking care of them. Checking monthly is vital for an early diagnosis.

Article by Lane Craigie

ebe Jones

It can be easy to forget to check your boobs, but some fun ways to remind yourself to do so include setting up a text reminder with Coppafeel!, own a BoobPot, or even a pair of Titty earrings!

The text reminders come from Coppafeel! on the first of every month.

The reminder is a fun text with a simple opt out system at any time. The initial signup text is free, and there are no charges throughout, so there is no excuse not to check your boobs!

BoobPots are a fun and unique product that allow all breasts to be celebrated – the large, the tiny, and the wonky. TheBoobPotCompany specialise in ceramic pots with pairs of breasts, no two pots being identical. Every pot is

different, featuring scars, skin conditions, and accessories; the possibilities are endless! The pots come in any colour imaginable, but there is emphasis on showcasing all of the variations of skin colours.

With a focus on projecting these diversities, TheBoobPot Company offers an umpteen amount of premade BoobPot styles. There is also the option of sending TheBoobPotCompany owner, Esmé Fenton, a picture, drawing, or description of your own boobs and receive a completely personalised BoobPot! EarTittyTitty is a relatively new brand offering various boob shapes on earrings to wear with pride. The owner, Phoebe Jones, offers commissions for more personalised boobs, along with newly released ash trays. Initially all profits from the sales went towards charities such as Mermaids, a charity which helps young trans people, and various breast cancer charities. As of recently, however, all the proceeds go towards their partner’s top surgery.

Image cou rtesy of P ho

breast cancer, it just means more tests will allow you to know what’s going on.

Lots of people may be embarrassed to take their shirt off in front of a GP or specialist, but it’s important to understand that they are just wanting to make sure you’re okay, and to get you necessary treatment should something not be right. That being said, if it makes you more comfortable to be seen by someone of your same gender, you are free to make this request.

Breast Cancer Awareness month runs for the whole of October but considering your boob health should be a monthly occurrence, if not more.

It is vital to notice any abnormalities as soon as they appear, and not to leave them to fester and grow.

Should any abnormalities you find turn out to be cancerous, there are some treatments available – which, if the abnormality is caught early enough, should fully cure you. Mastectomy surgery is the first stage, followed by chemotherapy or radiotherapy, and sometimes hormone or targeted treatment (NHS, 2019).

- To set up a free monthly boob check text reminder with the RGU Uni Boob Team, text “UBT RGU” to 70500 - For your own Boob Pot visit @theboobpotcompany on Instagram and Etsy - More information regarding Breast Cancer awareness can be found on the Cancer Research UK website, Coppafeel! website, and the Breast Cancer Now website

Witch please!

Inspired by 90s cult classics “Clueless” and “The Craft”, become bewitched with these preppy styles fit for a witch

Credits; Modelling- Becky Sutherland, Lane Craigie Photography - Roisin Gibson Styling - Lane Craigie

Becky wears; Dress, Belt - Primark

Lane wears; Jacket, Shirt - H&M Waistcoat - Primark Skirt, Shoes - New Look Socks - River Island

Becky wears; Shirt - H&M Crop vest, skirt - Primark Shoes - Koi Footwear

Lane wears; Dress - Zara Belt - H&M

Becky wears; Jumper, Accessory - H&M Skirt, Socks, Boots - Peacocks Tights - Primark Hair accessories - New Look Jewellery - Model’s own

Lane wears; Shirt, Skirt, Tights, Boots - H&M Brassiere - Boux Avenue Jewellery - Model’s own 105

Becky wears; T-shirt - Warehouse Cardigan - H&M Skirt - Apricot Socks - River Island Shoes - Koi Footwear Bag - Peacocks

Lane wears; Top, Boots, Hair accessory, Bag - H&M Dress - New Look Tights - Primark 106

BORN IN THE

2000s Fits Straight From a Chick Flick

Stylist - Chloe Milne Photographer - Jazmin Reid Models - Kirsty Thompson Anna Forsyth Clodagh Mullen and Mairi Clarke 107

Hair clips & sunglasses - Shein

Top - Bershka Dress - Collusion Bag - Shein

Top - PrettyLittleThing Dress & bag - Shein

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Top & dress - Shein Bag - Primark

Top - Zara Dress - Topshop Bag - Shein

Top - PrettyLittleThing Skirt - Shein Shoes - Nike

Top - Bershka Skirt - Shein Shoes - Sketchers

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Top - PrettyLittleThing Cardigan & skirt - Shein Shoes - Converse

Top & skirt - Shein Shoes - Zara

Director and Stylist: Katy Greig

Fulfil Your Power Suit Dreams

Power Suit Fantasy

Corduroy Suit: Jaded London Shirt: Zara Jewellery: Pandora and Topshop Shoes: KOI Footwear

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Leather Co-Ord: Jaded London Shirt: Ralph Lauren Jewellery: Topshop and ASOS Shoes: Public Desire

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RETRO REVIVAL

That 70s Style

Models: Holly Wilkinson Marisa Chisholm Photographer: Lukasz Pietrzak

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GET A GRIP ON GREEN Make the world green with envy

Ellie wears; Mask, Stylist’s own Necklace, Seol & Gold Rings, ASOS & Primark Body Suit, New Look Skirt, Bershka Bag, Topshop

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Lauren wears; Top, H&M Jacket, ASOS Trousers, PrettyLittleThing Shoes, Vans

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Ellie wears; Facemask, Stylist’s own Shirt, Wednesday’s Girl Top, New Look Jeans, AliExpress Rings, ASOS & Primark Necklace, Seol & Gold Bag, ASOS

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Lauren wears; Dress, Nasty Gal Top & Belt, PrettyLittleThing Boots, Primark Bag, ASOS

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Anna wears; Mask, Stylist’s own Top, ASOS Flares & Bag, Topshop Shoes, Reebok Jewellery, Stylist’s own

Stylist & Photographer: Hannah Jones Models: Ellie Ballamy, Lauren Fowlds, Anna Gillespie Partly located at Aberdeen Music Hall

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Radiant Moves Moving in more radiant and outgoing colours

Top: Asos Jeans: Bershka

Top: Depop Trousers: United Colours of Benetton

Photographer: Eoghann Sinclair Models: Eve Fraser & Jordan Drummond Stylist: Jordan Drummond 119

Top: Depop Trousers: United Colours of Benetton

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Top: Asos Jeans: Bershka

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BRING ON THE NEON

FemmeNeon

Photographer: Tylor Webb Stylists: Ashleigh Munro, Fati Alex & Tylor Webb Creative Director: Tylor Webb & Rozi Ellwood Models: Ashleigh Munro & Fati Alex

Top: Warehouse Bag: Topshop Jewellery: Pandora Trousers: Miss Selfridge

Jewellery: Pandora Jumpsuit: Miss Selfridge Umbrella: Primark £5

Glasses: Calvin Klein Sweater: Warehouse 123

Jumpsuit: Miss Selfridge Jewellery: Pandora Watch: Apple Belt: Model’s Own Leather Jacket: Primark £25 Shoes: Nike

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White Top: Zara Leopard Top: H&M Bag: Model’s Own Jewellery: Accessorize Necklace: ASOS Trousers: Zara Glasses: £129

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Stand Out at Home

Be your unique self even if nobody is watching

Cat is wearing: Dress: H&M Belt: Thrifted

Styled, Photographed & Directed by Veronica Merigliano Make-up by Ella Duncan Modelled by Cat MacIver & Davis Reid

Davis is wearing: Leather Jacket: All Saints Shirt: Next Trousers: ASOS

Cat is wearing: Jacket: Benetton Jumpsuit: Urban Outfitters Choker: Thrifted

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Davis is wearing: Jacket: Benetton Top: Penguin Trousers: Benetton

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Don’t Let Quarantine Stop You From Being You.

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BRA: SAVAGE X FENTY £49.95

MODELS: GEORGE COWAN & KENAH TOSH MAKEUP & LIGHTING: BETH FORBES PHOTOGRAPHERS: KENAH & LEAH TOSH STYLIST: KENAH TOSH

STUCK WITH U JUST BECAUSE YOUR STUCK INDOORS, DOESN’T MEAN FASHION IS LOCKED AWAY

ROBE: ASOS £20.15 BRALETTE: SAVAGE X FENTY £20

VEST: ASOS £10, CHOKER: ASOS £14

BLAZER: ASOS £42.05, SUIT TROUSERS: ASOS £20, NECKLACE: DEPOP

CORSET: SAVAGE X FENTY £70

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1.

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Go Wild With Sunglasses 3.

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Designed by Veronica Merigliano

Spice up any outfit with a pair of funky sunglasses!

The perfect accessory to add an extra dimension to your look. Whatever your price range, there’s a perfect pair waiting for you to find.

Get out of your comfort zone with weird shapes, patterns and colours.

1. Daisy Park, Sadie Amber Sunglasses. £30 2. Vision Express, Fendi Women’s Yellow Sunglasses. £190 3. Oliver Bonas Hong Kong Orange Cat Eye Sunglasses. £49.50 4. Oliver Bonas D Frame Ombre Sunglasses. £24 5. Oliver Bonas Peach Oversized Cateye Sunglasses. £24 Print is John Lewis & Partners Seoni Wallpaper, Blue. £40 133

Jacket - Unif Top - I.AM.GIA Trousers - I.AM.GIA Bag - Prada

WILD SIDE Add a touch of animal print to unleash your wild instincts

Photographed and styled by Alia Bedawi Modelled by Fadia Bedawi

Top - Shein Trousers - Topshop Bag - Urban Outfitters

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Top - Jesse Jo Stark Trousers - I.AM.GIA Bag - Urban Outfitters 136

Jacket - Samuel Chorbadjian Dress - Topshop Bag - Vintage

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TRUTH

Photographer- Mónica Díaz Fraga Models- Natalia Núñez Bolaño and Favour Adanna Maduka-Ikeri Stylists- Mónica Díaz Fraga and Favour Adanna Maduka-Ikeri 138

“Although humans see reality in colour, for me, black and white has always been connected to the image’s deeper truth, to its most hidden meaning” Peter Lindbergh

Jacket, Scarf and Jeans- ASOS Shirt- Shein Shoes- Nike Model- Favour Adanna Maduka-Ikeri 139

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TRUTH

Boots- Court Guider Trousers- Mango Jacket and Shirt- Zara Scarf- Stylist’s own Model- Natalia Núñez Bolaño

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TRUTH Earrings- H&M Skirt- ASOS Jacket and Sweater- H&M Headscarf- Primark Model- Favour Adanna Maduka-Ikeri 142

PINK WASH ING

Do the brands cashing in on LGBT+ Pride care more about equity than equality?

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s the sun starts to shine in June, there is another awakening.

Rainbow flags start appearing in store-front windows, social media profile pictures, and your neighbour’s front garden (well, maybe that’s just my neighbour’s rather questionable flagpole, currently sporting a Gerry Cinnamon flag). I digress. June has been the unofficial month celebrating queerness for decades. But as we see more and more rainbow products popping up around Pride month, it’s important to ask ourselves whether or not the gay rights movement has sold out to capitalism, specifically, by considering a concept called ‘Pinkwashing’.

Pride month sees demonstrations and celebrations across the country, dedicated to celebrating LGBT+ people. In London, gay police officers march in uniform, and the red arrows fly overhead, in a statement of support for the community.

‘Pinkwashing’ is a term used to describe a process by which conservative institutions declare their support of gay rights to become visibly more enlightened, modern, and tolerant. Is there a problem with that?

The issue with this fixation on inclusion at all costs is that it’s somewhat of a Faustian pact.

Some queer people – most notably the white, middle-class, gay men in the community – are afforded the opportunity to lead a relatively normal, public

It could easily be argued that this is a positive thing – surely a contemporary gay rights movement should support queer people in all parts of public life, including these most traditional and powerful of British institutions.

It must be a good thing that we have openly gay police officers and soldiers – the gay rights movement is all about acceptance and inclusion, right?

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life. You can get married, you can excel in the workplace, and you are allowed a variety of legal rights. In exchange for these small mercies, you must not question these institutions any further, and you also must stifle the voices of the more demanding and inconvenient members of your community.

In recent years, Pride in London has been sponsored by a nationally recognised bank.

This institution has not only been complicit in driving up global food prices, but also holds a 4.25% shareholding in a well-known arms dealer we’ll nickname, ‘BS’. BS, themselves, even participate in London Pride, showcasing their credentials as a supposedly LGBT-friendly employer.

However, as of 2016, BS have dealt arms to at least thirteen sovereign powers, known to be committing homophobic and transphobic human rights violations against their own LGBT+ citizens. Is that something to be proud of?

There’s clearly money to be made from this so-called “dreammarket”; urban, well-educated, double-income household gay and lesbian couples. It’s for this reason that we must approach these supposedly LGBT-friendly corporations with caution. Who can we trust, when so many retailers only concern is fighting for equity, and not equality?

Pinkwashing is a marketing strategy used to cover up the troubling realities and uncomfortable truths. It separates sexuality from class, race, nationality, religion, and gender, pushing the idea that we are all on an equal playing field, which is impossible under free-market capitalism.

Now, this could be viewed as a rather cynical take on what is ultimately the promotion of inclusivity – and not every gay person thinks this way. Many shoppers embrace and enjoy the fruits of Pride month, viewing them as a fun way for companies to show their solidarity with the LGBT+ community. But does slapping a

rainbow on your product really push any boundaries or drive the actual change Pride month seeks? It’s worth remembering Pride month is not a festival – it’s a commemoration of the Stonewall Riots, and all of the LGBT+ people who were persecuted not so long ago.

They fought for the freedoms we have today, and what do we have to show for it; a pride-themed sandwich? The oppression of gay people in this country hasn’t magically disappeared either – just last year a lesbian couple were assaulted on a bus for no reason other than their sexuality. This wasn’t an isolated event either. In 2018, the Metropolitan Police released figures showing that attacks on London’s LGBT+ community have nearly doubled since 2014. A colourful t-shirt being sold down your local high street doesn’t

If the message behind the movement is equality, then we must also look at the ethical standpoint of the fastfashion brands churning out ‘affordable’ Pride month merch. Was my rainbow t-shirt – a symbol of equality – ironically made by a garment worker earning pennies an hour? Whether it’s a limitededition vodka bottle, or a rainbow filter on your social media profile picture, the message being sold is a deceptive one to straight and queer people alike – don’t question the status quo; everyone’s life is improving; things are progressing for everyone.

Since the identification of the ‘Pink Pound’ in the 1990s, it’s been obvious why any retailer would be keen to promote their products to what was then a neglected consumer – there was a gap in the market. Since then, we’ve seen the normalisation of Pride-themed products, as well as astronomical growth in the LGBT community’s purchasing power in the UK (the pink pound), estimated at £6 billion per year, as of 2016.

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Image: Teddy Österblom

Image: IKEA’s 1994 ‘Dining Room Table’ Ad suddenly mean this country is tolerant of gay people – the gay rights movement still has a long way to go.

All of this may seem rather irrelevant to companies whose focus is to make products which meet consumer demand, but the corporate social responsibility of brands is what consumers are really demanding today. This is the age of clicktivism and cancelculture, and more than ever, social media acts as a breeding ground for consumer activism, with Twitter in particular becoming a focal point for political and cultural discussion online. Between January and September 2020, nearly two million English-language tweets

by US and UK users called for the boycotting of something, ranging from companies, to politicians, to entire countries.

The brands that are guilty of tokenism need not necessarily be boycotted, but rather, should listen to their LGBT+ consumers, and learn from the companies that are making real change not only within their organisation, but for the LGBT+ community as a whole.

An example of this would be

Smirnoff’s collaboration with Manchester’s LGBT Foundation.

This effort has seen the brand work closely with the charity and their volunteers, providing essential services and “nonjudgemental support and assistance to people in need in Manchester’s Gay Village”.

IKEA is widely considered to be the first company to air an advert featuring a gay couple, and in doing so, created a real cultural milestone for the community. More recently, they launched a rainbow-coloured bag that saw 100% of the profits donated towards LGBT+ charities.

If we truly want to support the LGBT community, we should be supporting their small businesses too. By buying from LGBT-owned businesses, you are directly financially contributing to the cause, giving the owners a greater voice within their industry. During a pandemic, financial support is needed more than ever to ensure the survival of these businesses. However, as with all small businesses, they’re just not as abundant or convenient as those high-street chain stores you see everywhere you go.

So, what can we, as the 145

consumer, do to ensure that brands aren’t just piggybacking off Pride month? Obviously, we can’t just become separatists – sometimes pragmatism necessitates the support of powerful institutions to make our voices be heard, and to help the more vulnerable in the LGBT community. Therefore, we must hold the corporations looking to make a profit from Pride accountable, questioning their motives. What do they want from us? Who in our own community will we have to step over to get it? Will it help their brand image more than it helps us?

There’s a price to be paid for being capitalism’s sassy best friend.

Political and commercial alliances can feel like a huge step forward for the inclusion of LGBT+ people in wider society, but it’s not all rainbows and sunshine, and sometimes, it is necessary to reject the hand of support. After years of oppression, it may feel good in the spotlight; but there’s a price to be paid for being capitalism’s sassy best friend.

By Lucia Moncur

Blurred Lines

Soft meets edgy meets androgynous. Breaking the rules set by society and blurring the lines between gender norms; in today’s society you can wear what you want. Be free, be you.

Photography, styling, hair, makeup by Jasmin Ihalainen Modelled by Veronica Merigliano and Josh Vanzetta 146

Veronica: Leather blazer, Primark £25 Black corset top, Primark £10 White collared shirt, Primark £7 Black trousers, Bik Bok £27 Pearl earrings, Primark £1 Black trainers, Model’s own

Josh: Black beanie, Monki £6 Black leather coat, thrifted £15 White T-shirt, Weekday £12 Black satin skirt, Primark £13 Black trainers, Model’s own

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Josh: Black beanie, Monki £6 Black shirt, Monki, Model’s own Blue jeans, H&M £27.99 Black trainers, Model’s own

Veronica: White blazer, Primark £10 Black cropped T-shirt, H&M £5 Cream satin skirt, Primark £13 Pearl earrings, Primark £1 Boots, Dr. Martens, Model’s own

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FEELING BLUE Give your living space a sense of freedom and calm

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1 John Lewis Herringbone throw £95 Embroidery cushion £25 Weave cushion £30 2 Cult Furniture Evelyn accent chair in Mustard brass £289 3 DFS Mya three-seater sofa in Indigo blue £699

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4 Abstract House Summer in Greece art print £40 5 Abstract House Tide waves art print £55

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6 Homesense Blue ombré candle £7.99 7 John Lewis Ruark digital radio in walnut £219 8 Nest Hay Pouf £299

By Katy Greig

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Written by Anniina Juntunen

Doing a fashion photoshoot at home (alone) Tips and tricks to get the best possible photos out of the photoshoot without having to waste time!

Doing the photoshoot should not feel stressful or like a burden.

You should have fun, get your creativity flowing and enjoy what you are doing. Personally, I did not expect myself to have so much fun doing the photoshoot, especially since I was doing it alone, but from the beginning of the day I was open-minded and decided to have fun no matter what. Doing the fashion photoshoot at home is all about creativity and using whatever you can find around the house, without the need to purchase excessive amounts of clothing, makeup, accessories or equipment for the photoshoot.

1. Planning You’ve had the idea of doing a photoshoot? Amazing! The best thing is to start with is planning. Browsing through Pinterest, gathering ideas and inspiration to a Pinterest board is a great way to organise your ideas. After having gathered all the needed inspiration, you want to start thinking about backgrounds, clothing and styling.

Even thinking about the weather may be needed. If you want to use natural light, it is best to choose a sunny day rather than a gloomy and a dark day. I started planning with a Pinterest board and making a

mood board to sort out my ideas. After that I started thinking about backgrounds that I could use in my very small studio flat. With good planning, your photoshoot is more likely to run smoothly and any major issues won’t be encountered.

2. Equipment For taking the photos you are going to need some sort of camera.

Using your smartphone and a DSLR camera are both good options.

Use whatever you are the most familiar with as that will make the process of photographing easier and more comfortable to you.

Smartphone camera qualities nowadays are really good and sometimes can be even better than a very old DSLR cameras quality. Another thing to consider is a steady place for the camera which is in fact quite essential if you are doing the photoshoot alone. There is no need to own a tripod since using everyday objects around the house such as a stack of books or a mug can be used to raise your camera or to lean your phone on but there is no denying that a tripod would be very useful. The only thing is that having a shaky camera will make your photos turn out blurry which is not the ideal outcome for all the hard work you are putting into the photoshoot. I would suggest using your creativity and trying different ideas to hold your phone or a camera in place. The easiest thing would be getting someone to take the pictures for you. That way you won’t have to worry about the camera falling.

3. Lighting Good lighting is key for clear and evenly lit pictures. Making sure there is enough natural light when the harsh and possibly yellow ceiling bulbs are not enough to light the pictures. Having extra lighting such as soft boxes or ring lights is a good option to consider if there is the ability to borrow those from somewhere as they can cost quite a bit to buy yourself. Using a built-in camera light in a dark space will only end up lighting the model’s face, not the background, and make the pictures look too bright with harsh edges and shadows.

Of course, the amount of lighting you want for the pictures depends on the style you are going for but it should be considered since it is easy to forget. For my photoshoot, I chose a sunny day to maximise the amount of light. The only thing I would change is starting to shoot the photos a bit earlier as I felt like I was running out of natural light at the end of the photoshoot.

4. Background and set up After brainstorming ideas, gathering up the equipment needed and choosing the perfect day for your photoshoot, it is time to work with the setup, outfits and styling. For my fashion photoshoot I had come up with two somewhat simple and easy backgrounds. I only used items I could find at home, a bed sheet and newspaper. Other things that could be used as a simple background are a tablecloth, a blank wall, a gallery wall or play with mirrors at home. Using anything you can find at home would probably work but taking a few test shots when you have set up your camera is a good idea. It gives you a quick look of the set up and if what you have come up with looks good or

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not. There is no point wasting your precious time for something that will end up looking bad so think about backup backgrounds too.

5. Styling Here is the fun part! When it comes to styling outfits, hair and makeup there are no limits! Anything you think would work and look good together, try it. If you have chosen a theme for the fashion photoshoot it will help you to choose outfits and going back to have a look at the mood board or the Pinterest board you created will remind you of the things you wanted to do. For my photoshoot, I had chosen all black outfits and a simple makeup to complement my theme. Choose outfits you or the models are comfortable wearing as it will give everyone the extra boost of confidence and it will show to the person looking at your pictures later on. As for makeup and styling hair, do what you think is the best. If you are not confident doing makeup or hair, ask for someone to come and do it for you. But remember, makeup doesn’t show up that well in full body photos, so if you want it to show, add a bit more than you usually would since camera will fade it out.

6. Shooting Taking the pictures is one of the best parts of the photoshoot.

Practising different kinds of poses may be a good idea before starting to take the pictures if you are taking them yourself. If not, you can also just freestyle and come up with poses as you go. Don’t be afraid to move your camera too and to try different angles, the same goes with posing. Some of the craziest ideas you get may work better than you could have ever expected.

Take a few test shots to see if the focus and camera settings are ok and work well with the lighting. It’s not always guaranteed the photos turn out perfect. I had some issues with my photos, some of then turned out blurry and in others I was out of the frame. It all looked good through my phone screen which I used as a remote to focus the camera and to take the pictures but after looking through all the photos on my computer I realised some of the pictures were not good enough to be used. It would be helpful to have someone to take the pictures for you and to make sure you are focused and in frame, but it is possible to do it by yourself too.

To take the pictures I used self-timer and the phone as a remote as earlier mentioned. I had changed my cameras self-timer settings to take five pictures every time I launched the camera to save my time and effort of having to do the same pose multiple times to get the perfect shot. This gave me a lot of variety in the pictures as I had enough time to move slightly within the pictures or to change my pose.

“I did not expect myself to have so much fun doing the photoshoot.”

7. Editing After the successful day it is time for editing and moving the pictures to your computer. There may not be any need to edit the pictures but if editing is something you want to do, go for it. I didn’t end up editing the pictures other than adjusting some brightness but left all the flaws I found to be. I asked other people’s opinions on the pictures and they didn’t even recognise the same flaws as I did. As long as you are happy with the results, that is all that matters. Saving should be done to at least two different places to ensure the pictures will be safe and won’t get lost. Using a pen drive or an external hard drive could be a good option along with OneDrive or other internet-based storage platforms such as iCloud. Nothing would be worse than losing all the pictures after all the effort you put into them.

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ClassIC in black Elegant and poetic black makes you look more sophisticated than you could have ever imagined

Photographed, modelled and styled by Anniina Juntunen

“You can wear black at any time. You can wear it any age. You may wear it for almost any occasion; a little black frock is essential to a woman’s wardrobe.”

- Christian Dior

Dress: Marimekko GBP 240.00 Shoulder bag: ASOS GBP 16.20 Rings: Primark GBP 3.00 Necklace: Model’s own Sunglasses: Lindex EUR 9.90 Shoes: Dr. Martens GBP 149.00

Jumpsuit: Rut & Circle EUR 50.00 Rings: Primark GBP 3.00 Necklace: Model’s own Earrings: Glitter (3 pairs) EUR 34.99 Hairclips: Bikbok EUR 3.00 Shoes: Glamorous GBP 16.99 153

Modern Personality AN HOMAGE TO THE SIXTIES

STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY KATIE SUTHERLAND HAIR, MAKEUP & MODEL LUCY SUTHERLAND

DRESS - MONKI, BLOUSE - & OTHER STORIES, HANDBAG - MATT & NAT

TOP - MODEL’S OWN, JEANS - LEVIS, EARRINGS - EBAY, HEADSCARF - DIOR

CARDIGAN - Y.A.S SHORTS - ASOS HEADBAND - PRIMARK EARRINGS - AS BEFORE

157

JACKET - HELENE BERMAN TIGHTS - PRIMARK HEADBAND & EARRINGS AS BEFORE

158

YOUTHFUL PRESENCE

The child is in me still and sometimes not so still Fred Rogers

Photographer: Kenzo Van-Dunem Hair, Make-up & Stylist : Laurabelle Ng Models : Laurabelle Ng & Kenzo Van-Dunem

Earrings: ROMWE £1.50 | Star Ring: ASOS £4.00 | Mood Ring: Monki £6.00

Earrings: ROMWE £1.50 | Choker: ROMWE £1.50 | Chupa Chups Tee: Primark £6.00 | Skirt: TKMaxx £5.00 | Shoes: Primark £12.00 Hoodie: ROMWE x Peanuts £16.00 | Pants: ASOS £20.50 | Shoes: Nike £90.00

160

Bag: Pordein £27.00 | Top: ROMWE x Spongebob £7.50 | Leggings: COLLUSION £5.00 | Socks: Cotton on £1.00 | Shoes: Palladium £69.00

161

162

Earrings: Shein £2.00 | Beanie: George Asda £4.50 | Tee: Daniel Arsham x Pokémon £6.00 | Dungarees: Lucy & Yak £58.00 | Shoes: Nike £90.00 Durag: ShyneDurags £6.00 | Hoodie: Castaways £35.00 | Denims: ASOS £30.00 | Shoes: JD Sport £50.00

Street Street Street Street Street Street Street Street Street Style Style Style Style Style Style Style Style Style The North Face 100 Glacier quarter zip fleece pullover £ 50.00 Bershka Cat eye sunglasses £12

Photographer: Photographer: Photographer: CaitlinThomson Thomson Caitlin Thomson Caitlin Stylist: Stylist: Stylist: CaitlinThomson Thomson Caitlin Thomson Caitlin Model: Model: Model: KajaSzurgot Szurgot Kaja Szurgot Kaja 163

Levi’s Original Trucker jacket £95 Levi’s Camera patch £15 Nike Air Force 1 Sage Low Women’s £95

164

Relab limited edition glow bag £56 Jeans Model ’s Own 165

MENS STREETSTYLE

MODEL : DUNCAN BOATH STYLIST : ANDREW KETTLES 166

Topman Denim Jacket Carhartt Hoodie Dickie’s Chinos Fila Socks Reebock Trainers

- £39.99 - £70.00 - £50.00 - £10.00 - £70.00

Stussy Hoodie Miltek Red Cargo Trousers Nike Socks Nike Air Max 1 Anniversary

- £70.00 - £30.00 - £10.00 - £250.00

Push Back Pink

Pink is introduced as the main colour to be styled and seen in mens streetwear influenced by Hip-Hop Music Artists

Photography: Shannon Milton Model: Jack Williams Styling: Jasmine Ross

Hoodie: Adidas Joggers: Nike Shoes: Adidas Socks: New York Yankees Watch: Tommy Hilfiger

169

Jumper: Jack Wills Jeans: River Island

170

Shoes: Adidas Socks: Adidas

171

Jacket: Michael Kors T-shirt: Adidas Joggers: Nike Cross Body Bag: Puma

172

Hoodie : Zara Necklace: Model’s Own

“ I wear pink whether the public sees it or not. Whether I had a sneaker or not. I’d still be wearing pink .”

- Cam’ron

173

under T H E M A S K

Keepin’ Safe Stayin’ Stylish

Shot, styled & directed by Elise Nicholson Model - Megan Wilson Mask - Zara Hat - Primark Ring - Givenchy Shirt - River Island Trousers - Topshop Shoes - Balenciaga

Kiss me through ...

...

MY PPE Sunglasses - quay australia Blazer - Collusion Bralet - Moschino shorts - Boohoo Bag - Dior 175

CAUTION

Covid TRENCH Coat - river island boots - office mask - zara

Shot by Gregor Macdonald 176

Creatively directed, styled & shot by - Elise Nicholson

MASK : ON

Makeup - Models own, Mask - Amazon, Blazer - TKMaxx, Bralet - Boohoo, Shorts - PrettyLittleThing , Shoes - Off White

177

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Under the Mask Contributors

2020-2021

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table

Evelyn Kokka

en Juntun eticulous Anniinarous Reliable M

nary

Passionate Decisive Visio

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Dynamic Intuitive Kooky

g n Ellie Lyoate Friendly Outgoin Passion

liano Veronica Merig Independent Broad-minded Compassionate

Laura Murdie

le Perfectionist Passionate Reliab

Our thanks to Steve Smith, the photographers at NESCOL and all of the contributors who make this publication possible Back cover concept Katie Sutherland

Elise N

Funky

icholso n

Fierce

Fun

Leah Ritchie

Reliable Adventurous Organised

eptive therland Katie Sutive Observant Perc Imagina

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