The glass wave, December 2015 “This is the north coast of Tahiti, with swells coming from Hawaii and even further away. A big wave – what we call a shorebreak – forms at the edge of the black sand beach and this is stirred up, creating a variety of colours. We’re at sunrise with a cliff behind, so it looks black. The first rays of sunlight go over the cliff and light up this lip of water, giving strong contrast as if it were glass or lace. I’m at the edge of the beach, the tips of my fins almost touching the bottom. You don’t want to get caught by the wave – it can hurt. I’ve lost my camera and fins before. You can get dismembered by the impact of the lip on the sand.” 42
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