Cover: This month, Grapegrower & Winemaker brings you part two of our Vintage Report feature as part of the busy August issue. Here, we take a closer look at the challenges of irrigating old vines during a drought, explore where on earth Pinot Noir is grown, and investigate oak and its alternatives. We commemorate the life and work of Dr Richard Smart, hear from Paul Baggio on the latest approaches to fitting and retrofitting wineries, and unpack a recent campaign in South Australia which centred red wine as the poster child for alcohol-related cancers.
REGULARS
6 What’s online
6 In this issue
19 International briefs
23 R&D at Work
102 Producer Profile
104 Looking Back
104 Calendar
105 Marketplace classifieds
NEWS
7 “We’re not here to deliver a static plan”: Wine Australia maps action with fiveyear strategy
10 Productivity and profitability for NSW grapegrowers
11 Barossa winemaker wins Red Wine Producer of the Year at US awards
12 Balanced decisions to balance the oversupply of wine: Riverland Wine
14 Five recipients announced for new ASVO scholarship program
15 Striking the right balance: industry responds to long-awaited review
16 Extra $1.1 million added to industry support package
17 “A wine for the ages”: Tassie Pinot crowned Australia’s best
18 Adelaide Hills vineyard back under Aussie ownership after over a decade
20 Vale Dr Richard Smart
GRAPEGROWING
28 FEATURE Vintage Report Part 2
46 FEATURE Saving Grace: Mulch and irrigation approaches protect old vines through drought conditions
50 Smart practices: Architect of the modern vineyard
54 Pinot Noir’s evolving place in Australia’s wine regions
65 How to conduct effective vineyard trials
72 Identifying grapevine clones is about to get easier and more accurate
WINEMAKING
75 FEATURE The oak equation
82 FEATURE Beyond the barrel: Costsavvy oak alternatives
85 Infrastructure for innovation
89 Victorian case study highlights how heat pumps can help wineries slash gas bills
90 SA Wine Recovery Program to focus on domestic demand and leadership
BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY
92 Backing workers in Victorian wine
93 Red wine made the poster child for alcohol-related cancers
SALES & MARKETING
97 Western Australian wines make a show in Sydney
98 Redefining industry standards with the innovation of the world’s ‘most durable digitally printed can’
101 A new champion for Murray Darling wine
PART 2
National vintage report reveals “problematic” rise in red winegrape crush
With the release of the National Vintage Report 2025 comes the news that red winegrapes have once again taken over whites in Australia’s winegrape crush, increasing by 20 percent year-on-year.
The 2025 Australian winegrape crush is estimated to be 1.57 million tonnes, 160,000 tonnes (11 per cent) more than the 2024 crush, but still 140,000 tonnes below the 10-year average of 1.71 million tonnes, according to the report released by Wine Australia. The year-on-year increase in the crush was driven by red varieties, while the crush of white varieties was 2% higher than in 2024. Shiraz has returned to the top as Australia’s most-crushed variety in 2025, overtaking Chardonnay.
“The crush of red grapes is still estimated to be the third-smallest in more than a decade (the past two years being the smallest) and was 9% below its 10-year average, while the crush of white grapes was 8% below the 10-year average,” Bailey said.
However, he noted that the mix of red versus white was problematic.
“The significant increase in red varieties this year could exacerbate the challenges facing the sector in terms of excess stocks of red wine, and might further reduce demand for these varieties next vintage.”
Nation’s 2025 crush increase on past two years but still below long-term average
The smaller crush relative to the longterm average is likely to have been a result of both seasonal and strategic factors, with a decline in demand for wine globally driving adjustment in the Australian wine sector, explained Peter Bailey, manager of market insights at Wine Australia.
“The 2025 crush equates to around 1.1 billion litres of wine, which is in line with current sales of Australian wine on domestic and export markets,” said Bailey.
It should be noted that there was also an increase in the number of wineries that responded to the vintage survey this year: 2025 saw 746 businesses respond, an increase from last year’s 711 respondents. Wine Australia estimates that these 746 businesses account for 92% of the total volume of the Australian winegrape crush in 2025.
Despite the year-on-year increases, the crush of both red and white varieties was still below the 10-year average (Figure 1).
Value of the crush
The total value of the Australian winegrape crush in 2025 is estimated to be $1.13 billion, an additional $136 million (14%) compared with 2024.
The average purchase value for red and white grapes from cool / temperate regions both decreased, while there were increases in the average purchase
Harvest at Mt Lofty Ranges Vineyard. Photo: Josh Geelan
OAK
Beyond the barrel
Cost-savvy oak alternatives
New oak barrels are an important–and expensive–consideration for many winemakers looking to utilise their numerous benefits for their wines. Many products, known as “oak alternatives”, now exist to meet that need, often without a hefty price tag. Writer Brendan Black here explores some of the options that are currently available.
There was a time when you were likely to only hear two countries mentioned in regards to oak barrel production: France and the United States. But it’s now very common to hear of Hungarian (which actually also comes from Romania and Slovakia) and Slavonian (Croatian) oak, and to a lesser extent, Russian and Canadian.
As the price of a new oak barrel can be well north of AU$2,000, some winemakers–particularly hobbyists or those producing small volumes of wine–have gone the oak alternative route, with many businesses popping up to fill the need, sourcing their wood from the same forests that provide us with new barrels. Given the importance of oak in aiding the texture, flavour, tannin and colour of a wine, increasing numbers of winemakers are happy to embrace alternative methods, even if they won’t always acknowledge it.
Staves
One of the most popular oak alternatives is staves, affectionately known as ‘nunchucks’ due to their (loose) similarity to the martial arts weapon. These are generally different to the staves you find in the walls of oak barrels, as they are flat and relatively thin (around 7mm thickness), rather than curved and thicker (around 22-27mm thickness), although it is possible to source individual staves which are the same thickness as barrel staves.
Depending on the size of the storage vessel being used for the wine, the staves can be placed inside individually or tied together in a bundle of ten with foodgrade nylon straps. Producers such as Classic Oak Products in Sydney state that a set of tank staves in 300 litres of wine will equate to using a 100 per cent new oak barrel, with a contact time of between three and six months.
Take Away Points
● New oak barrels can exceed $2,000, so small producers often look for cheaper options.
● Flat “nunchuck” staves mimic barrel grain and toast to impart classic oak flavour.
● Oak chips accelerate tannin extraction; limit use to 1–5 g/L to prevent over-oxidation.
● Oak powder offers precise dosing and can be racked off cleanly after fermentation.
● Liquid oak tannins deliver instant oak character but require a very light touch.
● Fan packs and block chains keep staves or chips fully submerged in the tank.
● Oak alternatives lack natural barrel micro-oxygenation, so extra aeration may be needed.
● Typical dosages of 1–5g/L during fermentation balance tannin structure and aroma.
● Using stave offcuts and convection-dried wood boosts the sustainability of alternatives.
Hungarian, Slavonian, Russian and Canadian oak now join French and American sources. Photo: Marek Piwnicki
Oak Alternatives
Victorian case study highlights how heat pumps can help wineries slash gas bills
The Australian Alliance for Energy Productivity (A2EP) has launched a video case study of a heat pump installation at Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong Wines on the Mornington Peninsula which takes viewers step-by-step through the system and the process of replacing a gas boiler in a business.
The Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong Wines site requires a significant amount of domestic hot water for its restaurant, accommodation and function centre. The previous gas boiler supplying the hot water was ageing, unreliable and expensive to operate.
The new heat pump system supplied by local Dromana-based supplier Energy Smart Water is highly efficient with thermal storage providing back-up supply for times and the flexibility to heat water using electricity from the 100 kilowatt on-site solar photovoltaic (PV) system when the sun is shining.
Since installation, there has not been any interruption to the supply of domestic hot water and the operators estimate it is reducing annual gas bills by $6,000 to $8,000 annually.
“This award-winning system demonstrates the savings and productivity benefits that electrification technologies such as heat pumps can offer businesses,” said Jarrod Leak, chief executive officer of A2EP.
“Not only has the system slashed gas bills for this popular destination winery and venue, it is delivering non-energy benefits such as improved productivity and quality of service to the winery with a more reliable hot water service for its many guests and customers,” said Leak.
The heat pump system is just the latest initiative by Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong Wines to reduce its carbon footprint and environmental impact. Other actions have included the installation of the 100-kilowatt solar PV system on the roof, 500,000 litres
of rainwater storage tanks and water recycling on the site.
The Australian Alliance for Energy Productivity offers a free Heat Pump Estimator online tool for businesses interested in heat pumps for reducing their energy costs and emissions. This is available at www.heatpumpestimator. com and can generate valuable initial information to inform conversations with consultants and suppliers.
More technical details about the system and installation at Port Phillip Estate and Kooyong Wines can be found on A2EP’s FutureHeat website (www. futureheat.info), which features heat pump and thermal storage case studies for a range of commercial and industrial applications.
Winery Design & Installations
Rebalancing the Sector
SA Wine Recovery Program to focus on domestic demand and leadership
Increasing domestic demand for South Australian wine and developing leadership within SA’s grape and wine regional communities are the focus for the final two streams of the Australian Wine Recovery Program established last year by the South Australian State and Federal governments.
The SA Wine Recovery Program, which is a $2.5 million commitment, has been developed following recommendations from the National Viticulture and Wine Sector Working Group, established by agricultural ministers to support the wine industry following recent adverse events and market disruptions.
Inca Lee, CEO of the South Australian Wine Industry Association (SAWIA), explained that the program aims to support long-term success across South Australia’s wine regions.
“This program represents a valuable investment by the State and Federal governments in our growers and winemakers at a time when the industry is working through significant adjustments and disruptions,” said Lee.
“Boosting domestic demand is important and this program supports
targeted action to grow our presence at home while lifting our sustainability credentials and strengthening governance across the sector.
“It’s a practical, forward-focused plan that will deliver benefits for the people and places behind South Australian wine.”
Boosting solutions, demand and credentials for South Australian wine
The three streams of the program are being managed by the South Australian Wine Industry Association (SAWIA) which, along with the Wine Grape Council of South Australia, has been a strong partner with the state government in its planning.
Lisa Bennier, CEO of Winegrape Council SA, highlighted the Wine Recovery Program’s “clear focus” on supporting South Australia’s
grapegrowers, winemakers, and its regional communities.
“The three streams will help address some immediate challenges facing our industry, while also backing the people and places at its heart.
“In South Australia we recognise the real strength in working together, and we value the genuine collaboration with the state government and SAWIA to develop and deliver these positive outcomes,” said Bennier.
The three streams
Stream one, which started in March, aims to find solutions for improved management of vineyard waste, including the growing stockpile of CCA treated timber posts at vineyards across the state.
Stream two aims to boost demand for South Australian wine. Australia’s
