Grape Grower & Wine Maker December 2022

Hans Mick Editor

Welcome to December and the end of an eventful year!

Preparations are being made for the foundations of what will become Vintage ’23, so in this December issue of Grapegrower & Winemaker we touch base with growers and viticulturists to find out about their vineyard equipment needs (page 22) as well as their strategies for securing vintage staff (page 32). We also visit the Mornington Peninsula’s Crittenden Estate as it marks 40 years of pioneering methods for vineyard sustainability (page 26) and we learn about the clonal mapping of Pinot Noir in the Adelaide Hills (page 34). We also meet this month’s Young Gun Yianni Koutouzis who’s passionate about promoting his regional Riverland home (page 42).

Getting out of the sun and into the winery, we focus on skin contact whites in our Uncorked column (page 48), while we consider options for analytical services and technology (page 52). We present findings on optimising the production of sparkling wine (page 56) and show the pros and cons of various pumping options for winemakers (page 60). For Behind the Top Drops, Sonya Logan speaks to New Zealand winemaker Michael Brajkovich about the story of Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay (page 63).

With bulk wine prices likely facing moves lower, Journalist Harrison Davies delves into the likely repercussions for producers and the industry (page 59).

At the 2022 PACKWINE Forum & Expo, speaker Rowena Curlewis, from Denomination, discussed making positive change in the wine industry

through design. Read her insights from page 72. Meantime, researchers at The University of Adelaide have asked how using digital content marketing can improve consumers’ experiences with a wine brand. Find out what they discovered on page 80.

Finally, a plan to expand the NSW bottle deposit scheme has brought criticism from the wine industry over what has been labelled a lack of consultation (page 83).

The past year seems to have flown by at lightning speed with a great many happenings having impacted the grape and wine sector. As we prepare to farewell 2022, it’s a time to reflect on the achievements of the past 12 months but also on some of the tougher circumstances that we’ve collectively faced. It may seem as though the blows have just kept coming for a while now –with wet conditions in parts of Australia and the resulting disease pressure the latest setback. There are those in the industry genuinely asking if prayer is needed. As we enter the Christmas period, I’ll let you decide the answer to that question, but what we may all hope is that 2023 will be kinder to everyone.

I hope you enjoy your well-deserved break over the holiday period.

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year – see you again in 2023!

NATIONAL JOURNAL OF THE WINE INDUSTRY SINCE 1963

Publisher and Chief Executive: Hartley Higgins

General Manager: Robyn Haworth

Editor: Hans Mick h.mick@winetitles.com.au

Associate Editor: Sonya Logan s.logan@winetitles.com.au

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Denis Gastin, Dr Steve Goodman, Dr Terry Lee, Paul van der Lee, Bob Campbell MW, Prof Dennis Taylor, Dr Mary Retallack and Corrina Wright

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what’s ONLINE

Aussie wine still widely available in Chinese market, claims Nimbility boss

The Chinese market is still awash with Aussie wine, despite restrictions and hefty tariffs imposed on its imports since late 2020. This is according to Ian Ford, co-founder of Nimbility, the specialist Asian marketing and trading agency, speaking in an interview in which he claimed that “surprisingly, from the standpoint of a China wine consumer, there are still abundant Australian wines available for purchase in the market, even close to two years into the ban”. Source: VINEX Lindauer replaces NZ grapes in their wine with Australian to cut costs

Starting from mid-November, the Lindauer Classic Brut will be made with Aussie grapes rather than New Zealand, while the Classic Rosé will be a blend of Aussie and Kiwi. Both were previously made with 100% NZ grapes from Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay. Jane De Witt, head winemaker at Lindauer owner Lion, said the decision had been made to keep costs stable. Source: Stuff

Qld looks to expand CDS to include wine bottles

Queenslanders may soon be refunded for recycling wine and spirit bottles as part of the state’s Containers for Change program. The Qld government announced it was considering expanding the scheme to include glass wine and spirit bottles. The expansion hinges on the results of a three-month period of community consultation between December and February 2023, and industry feedback. Source: ABC News

In this issue

“My heart and soul was here in the Riverland where I grew up and where my parents migrated to from Greece. I’m just so passionate about the region, passionate about what we have here; our River Murray, our food and our wine and I think it’s a great opportunity to have labels with our GI, with Riverland on it.”

- Yianni Koutouzis, page 38

“Fermentation temperatures peak at 23-24°C. After achieving dryness, which can take a few weeks to a couple of months, malolactic fermentation is encouraged. We do some inoculation of selected bacteria, but also expect some spontaneous MLF to occur too.”

- Michael Brajkovich, page 66

“I would say it’s probably one of the quietest times I’ve seen in the industry. I think everybody is just waiting and watching the weather within Australia. There are significant stocks of red still out there but we’re in a waiting phase.”

- Jim Godden, page 72

Daily Wine News is a snapshot of wine business, research and marketing content gleaned from local and international wine media sources, with a focus on Australian news and content.

“Less than one per cent of the litter stream is made up of wine and spirit bottles. Given this, while rates of beer bottle recycling (for example), may have increased because they were included in the CDS, there is no data to suggest a similar improvement in collection rates for wine bottles.”

- Lee McLean, page 86

Mixed results in key markets for Australian wine exports

Australian wine exports declined by one per cent in volume to 627 million litres and 11% in value to $2.01 billion in the year ended 30 September 2022, according to Wine Australia’s latest Export Report.

While the decline is reflective of the tough market conditions over the past two years – including high deposit tariffs on bottled Australian wine imported to mainland China, the impact of the global freight challenges, and the aftermath of changing consumer habits during the COVID-19 pandemic – the figures also reflect that value is starting to stabilise.

Wine Australia manager, market insights Peter Bailey said that the results were mixed in the year ended 30 September, with the increases recorded in some markets offset by declines in others.

“As a moving annual total result, the Export Report can demonstrate the performance of Australia’s exports and highlight some growing trends. In this report, we’re seeing the tail end of the decline in exports to mainland China having an impact on the total export figures; this is expected to wash out of the figures by the end of 2022,” Bailey said.

“When mainland China is excluded from the data, wine exports to the rest of the world held steady in value, declining by

0.2% to $1.99 billion and increasing by 1% in volume to 622 million litres.

“There was a decline in exports to the United Kingdom, Hong Kong and Singapore, which is a result of the return to anticipated shipment levels. This decline to the UK has been delayed compared to other markets with similar COVID-19 consumption patterns, such as the United States and Canada.

“Exports to the North America and Southeast Asia regions are showing growth. In particular, strong growth was recorded in exports to the US, Canada, Malaysia and Thailand.

“Pleasingly, the growth trend in the US and Canada was driven by both ends of the price spectrum; premium wine exports continued to grow and unpackaged commercial exports increased, as shipments of the record 2021 vintage accelerated following a slower than usual start due to global shipping pressures.

“Furthermore, the number of exporters to the US is at the highest level since 2008 and of the exporters to the US that ship wine at a value of $10 or more per litre free on board (FOB), 75% experienced growth demonstrating that green shoots continue in the market for premium Australian wine.

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“However, while total exports look to be stabilising, the wine sector can continue to expect market fluctuations, as rising inflation and interest rates may put pressure on margins and curtail consumer spending in key markets. On a positive note, over the past few months, the Australian Dollar has depreciated against the US Dollar, which assists Australian wineries to be more competitive in the US.”

Australian wine exporters shipped to 118 destinations during the period, up from 111 the previous year. The strongest growth came from North America, up 6% to $604 million, and Southeast Asia (up 15% to $291 million).

However, the large decline to Northeast Asia (down 46% to $321 million, driven by mainland China) and to Europe (down 12% to $621 million, driven by the UK’s return to more normal shipping levels) outweighed the growth to other regions.

North America

Exports to the US increased by 5% in value to $412 million and 14% in volume to 139 million litres. There are several drivers of the growth. One of which is that the volume of unpackaged wine shipped to the US increased by 53% to 68 million litres during the period.

The substantial size of this increase is because the Australian 2021 vintage was the largest on record and the shipments of this vintage had been delayed due to the ongoing global freight challenges. In the past few months, shipments of this vintage have intensified.

Secondly, packaged wine declined by 1% in value to $319 million and 9% in volume to 71 million litres. As volume declined more than value, the average value of packaged wine increased by 9% $4.47 per litre FOB.

Wine exports to Canada increased by 10% in value to $190 million and 26% in volume 62 million litres. The largest driver of the increase in volume was growth in unpackaged wine shipments. The volume of unpackaged shipments increased by 44% to 36 million litres.

The increase in total value of exports to Canada was driven by packaged shipments, especially at the premium end. The value of packaged shipments

increased by 11% to $156 million while volume increased by 7% to 26 million litres. Shipments valued at $5 per litre FOB and above grew by 18% in value to $122 million, the highest value for this price segment since 2009.

United Kingdom

Exports to the UK decreased by 14% in value to $395 million and 12% in volume to 222 million litres. This decline in wine exports to the UK was expected, if somewhat delayed. There were two factors elevating exports to the UK since 2020.

Firstly, the Brexit transition period saw an increase in exports ahead of the 31 December 2020 deadline.

Secondly, Australian wine holds the number one position in the off-trade –a category that benefitted greatly from the closure of the on-trade during the COVID-19 pandemic, and now, as the on-trade has opened back up, there is a counter-swing in the demand for Australian wine.

While this counter-swing occurred much earlier in the US and Canada, another two markets where Australia has a larger

share of the off-trade than on-trade, the shift has been much slower in the UK and exports are only now starting to be affected.

Asia

Exports to Northeast Asia declined by 46% in value $321 million and by 31% in volume to 35 million litres. The main contributor to this decline was exports to mainland China (down 92% to $21 million) and exports to Hong Kong (down 21% to $163 million).

Exports to Hong Kong are returning to a more normal level after an increase in shipments to the market in 2021. Offsetting some of the declines were exports to Japan and Taiwan, which rose by 18% and 13% respectively.

Exports to South Korea dropped by 5% in value to $43 million; the decline took place in exports valued below $7.50 per litre FOB (down 44%), while exports above $7.50 per litre increased by 30%.

Figure 1: Value of Australian exports over time – mainland China and Rest of world

Edmond de Rothschild Wines acquires Central Otago vineyard

Australian wine consumers are set to benefit from the creation of a new organic vineyard in New Zealand by Edmond de Rothschild Heritage Wines.

The Bordeaux-based wine producer has been granted consent to acquire a 52ha estate with 34.5ha of vines in Central Otago’s Bannockburn sub-region, along with the Akarua Estate vineyard, which was founded in 1996 by former Dunedin mayor Sir Clifford Skeggs.

Edmond de Rothschild Heritage is a unique, family-owned lifestyle brand, combining luxury hotels and restaurants, wines and farming expertise.

When fully converted and organically certified over the coming decade, the Central Otago vineyard will produce over 60,000 bottles of organic wines annually for international markets.

Australia is seen as a key market for

Edmond de Rothschild Heritage’s premium estates wine offering is distributed across 80 countries. The company aims to extend their range with a super-premium Pinot Noir produced from the exceptional terroir found in Central Otago.

Ariane de Rothschild, president of the Edmond de Rothschild Group, says the

“The addition of our second New Zealand winery is part of our wider strategy to develop a portfolio of premium international wines from exceptional terroirs,” Rothschild said.

“The investment in region also provides us with the scale needed to expand our trans-Tasman distribution network and improve access to our collection for connoisseurs across the Australian market.

“Central Otago’s international reputation for Pinot Noir provides a unique opportunity for us to complete our range and move into the production of organic wines – one of the fastest growing categories.”

Akarua head of culture, Kurt Robinson

SA Wine Industry continues to be challenged by significant and complex headwinds

Bentleys SA and the South Australian Wine Industry Association (SAWIA) have released the 2022 South Australian Wine Industry Snapshot, a survey of 120 of the state’s wine businesses of all sizes. Analysis of survey results shows that business confidence is at its lowest point in the six years of Snapshot reporting.

“Wine businesses identified significant and complex headwinds, including high yields and subsequent oversupply, partly due to the exceptional 2021 vintage; putting pressure on the 2022 and now 2023 vintage where lack of facilities and storage are both concerns,” said Tim Siebert, partner at Bentleys SA.

“A significant number of lost or ceased grape contracts represent a major market change and a considerable risk to the industry. We heard stories of grapes left on the vine this year and indeed fear that the issue is only just becoming clear.”

“Understanding these negative issues provide businesses with opportunities to see their exposure points, look at key risks, plan and evolve. Great insight can be established by focusing on innovation and operational efficiency.”

Other core contributors to the decline in business confidence include the rising costs of business and inflation, such as freight and energy, combined with labour shortages, and an over saturated domestic market due to the lingering effects from the punitive China wine duties have continued to contribute to a surplus of red wine, some of which has been placed in other markets, some is simply unsold.

“New export markets remain the best option for growth, whilst domestic markets remain very competitive to increase wine sales.” said Siebert.

A key challenge for the South Australian wine industry is attracting suitable or experienced staff to work in the industry.

“Labour availability remains challenging in almost all occupations in the wine value chain. Location and housing are also limiting issues, but to attract and retain labour, businesses will need to assess their attractiveness as an employer and ensure they remain alert to the competition and changing market conditions.” said Brian Smedley, chief executive of SAWIA.

Improving profitability while maintaining market share is a key issue for many wine

businesses. With the loss of sales to the China market, a change in focus is required to look for sustainable growth in wine markets as part of an appropriate geographic expansion strategy using existing or new markets. In addition, working collaboratively with industry bodies and government in targeted trade activities is beneficial.

“South Australian wine businesses are actively looking for new markets and new channels to distribute their wine which is a world-class product. Wine businesses have benefitted from increased wine sales via online channels. However, wine businesses will need to provide more timely and personalised experience tailored to the online world which is unlike other marketing channels.

“With business confidence low, it is evident that there is a greater need than ever before for investment in marketing and business strategy, with a key focus on training programs in eCommerce. Undertaking education and training suitable to your business needs will be invaluable to your business sustainability.”

Read the full report at bentleys.com.au and winesa.asn.au

Pikes winery in the Clare Valley. Photo: Nadinne Grace Photography

NSW wine industry body appoints new EO

The New South Wales Wine Industry Association (NSW Wine) has a new executive officer with the appointment of Matthew Jessop to the role last month.

NSW Wine said an extensive search for applicants for the position had taken place over the previous couple of months.

Jessop has a background in international trade, business and industry development and is the co-owner of a small family wine business in NSW.

He has also extensive experience within the NSW State Government including at the Department of Trade and Investment, NSW Treasury and Department of Industry, and has had successes in managing multinational trade and investment teams in Asia and the Middle East.

Jessop has most recently been an associate director of Tech Central and has a strong background in project initiation, management and delivery.

“We are confident that Matthew’s passion for the wine industry and his demonstrated past achievements, commitment and vision will continue to take the New South Wales wine industry forward,” said Mark Bourne, president of NSW Wine.

Jessop replaces Angus Barnes who had previously held the position.

“We are looking forward to Matthew taking on the role and we again thank Angus Barnes for his dedication, commitment and service to the association and the NSW wine industry over many years and wish him all success in his future endeavours,” Bourne said.

Australia’s wine stock levels rise following 12 months of challenging global conditions

Adrop in wine production around Australia was not enough to offset a reduction in total sales, leading to an increase in the national wine inventory for the second consecutive year, according to Wine Australia’s Production, Sales and Inventory Report 2022 released in November.

The findings confirmed the impact across the production chain of the significant headwinds the Australian wine sector has faced over the previous two years, including high deposit tariffs on bottled Australian wine imported to mainland China, the impact of the global freight challenges, and the aftermath of changing consumer habits during the COVID-19 pandemic, all coming at the same time as a record-sized vintage crush in 2021 and a near-average crush in 2022.

Wine Australia Manager Market Insights

Peter Bailey said the report provides an overall indication of the sector’s position based on survey responses from some of Australia’s largest wine producers.

“The challenges facing the Australian grape and wine community over the past couple of years has been well documented and this annual Production, Sales and

Inventory Report for 2021–22 captures the impacts across the production chain,” he said.

“Based on responses to the survey, total Australian wine production in 2021–22 is estimated to be just over 1.3 billion litres, which is a 12 per cent reduction compared with last year. There was a greater reduction in the amount of red wine produced compared with white, which saw its share of overall production reduced to 55% compared with 58% last year. “Total sales – domestic and export combined – were reported to be down by 9% to 1.06 billion litres. This has led to the national inventory rising for the second year in a row.

“Combining the figures from last year and the findings from this year’s survey, the national inventory is estimated to sit at 2.27 billion litres. While some of this is necessary to replace stocks drawn down over the previous years when we didn’t produce enough wine to fulfil demand, the national inventory is now estimated to be above its long-term average.”

The Production, Sales and Inventory Report 2022 indicates that the national stocks-to-sales ratio for white wine has

likely remained static compared with 2020–21 at 1.52, while for red wine it is estimated to have increased by 35% in 2021–22 to 2.77.

“Wine inventory levels fluctuate during the year, generally being at their maximum just after the new vintage (before any of that vintage has been sold), then depleting over the next 12 months as wine is sold, to be at a minimum just before the next vintage,” Bailey said.

“However, transportation challenges in getting wine to market is reported to have had a flow on effect, with wine production capacity expected to be further constrained ahead of vintage 2023 as a result of the higher-than-average inventory.”

The Production, Sales and Inventory Report 2022 is developed from responses to Wine Australia’s annual survey. The report is a snapshot of the national position, and covers an estimated 77% of total wine production but it is not representative of smaller wine business models. The past 12 months has seen a range of experiences across the Australian wine sector and every business is different.

NSW Wine executive officer Matthew Jessop

Wine clone trial to reveal benefits to WA vignerons

The second vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon wines made from a trial of vine clones and selections was bottled in the south-west of WA recently, opening the door to more high-performance grape varieties and opportunities for Western Australian vignerons.

The trial is part of a Department of Primary Industries and Regional Development (DPIRD) collaboration with Howard Park Wines, Wines of WA and Wine Australia.

The project is examining the performance of a number of Australian, American and French derived clones and selections under WA growing conditions.

WA is recognised internationally as a premium producer of Cabernet Sauvignon – the state’s highest value winegrape variety.

Most WA Cabernet Sauvignon plantings are established from a small number of winegrape clones and selections.

DPIRD research scientist Richard Fennessy said the addition of more diverse clones and selections to WA vineyards could help take Cabernet Sauvignon production to the next level.

“This project aims to understand the characteristics of the different clones and selections across multiple vintages, focusing on field performance and wine qualities,” Fennessy said.

“Our research will assess if these same or different attributes are observed under WA conditions.”

Preliminary findings from the research

show the clones and selections ripen at different times and that tannin profiles clearly varied. This information may guide growers to plant a range of clones/ selections to alleviate compressed harvest periods associated with a warming climate – relieving logistical pressures.

It also creates the opportunity to tailor tannin profiles to match desired wine styles to better target market preferences.

The wines from the project are made at DPIRD’s Bunbury fermentation laboratory and presented to industry for evaluation and consideration for future production at wine tasting workshops each year. Fourteen small-lot trial wines from the latest vintage were presented to the team at Howard Park Wines recently, which received positive feedback.

Howard Park Wines chief viticulturist David Botting said the wines from the 2022 and future vintages would start a

valuable conversation about the future of Cabernet Sauvignon production in the South West.

“These tastings will be invaluable in building local knowledge and helping to maintain consistency and enhancing the uniqueness of our Cabernet Sauvignon offering, in the face of vintage variations and long term climate changes,” he said.

Botting said Howard Park Wines was excited to host and contribute to the progress of the field trial.

“This trial is unique in Australia –and possibly the world – considering the number and origins of the clones involved, its robust scientific design and extensive replication,” he said.

“From a scientific view point, we can rely on the objective data and ongoing observations from this field trial site, providing a great deal of confidence in the outcomes.”

Federal Govt signals support for Australian Prosecco

The Commonwealth Government has signalled that it will stand behind the Australian wine industry and protect Australian winemakers’ ability to label wine made with Prosecco grapes as ‘Prosecco’.

A spokesperson for the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade said that the government would continue to recognise the Australia-EU Wine Agreement.

“Australia’s position remains that Prosecco is a recognised grape variety in Australia,” the spokesperson said.

“The Government appreciates the commercial and systemic importance

to the Australian wine industry that descriptors, such as grape varieties remain available for use.

“Minister for Trade, Don Farrell, has made it clear that Australia could only agree to a trade deal that involves substantial new market access for our key agricultural products such as beef, sheep meat, dairy, sugar, rice and grains.

“The EU will need to deliver outcomes that go significantly beyond Australia’s modest access under World Trade Organization arrangements.”

Australian Prosecco producers were dealt a blow when New Zealand recognised Prosecco as a protected Geographical

Indication, meaning that only Italian Prosecco can be labelled as such in New Zealand. That agreement is set to go into effect in five years.

The Federal Government’s announcement is likely to help Australian producers rest easy, as roughly two thirds of Prosecco bought domestically finds its origin in Australia.

“The Government is committed to helping the wine industry explore and expand new international market access and grow demand for Australian wines,” the spokesperson said.

- reporting by Harrison Davies

Howard Park Wines chief viticulturist David Botting (left), DPIRD research scientist Richard Fennessy and Wines of West Australia CEO, Larry Jorgensen inspect a unique trial of Cabernet Sauvignon wine clone grapes at Howard Park Wines in Margaret River.

Wet and warm conditions increase mildew pressure across inland regions

Growers in the Riverland, Murray Darling and Riverina winegrowing regions were faced with a deluge of rain throughout the month of October.

After a particularly rainy winter, the precipitation continued as the mercury rose and bred conditions one can only describe as perfect for downy mildew.

Winegrape producers across the three regions scrambled to spray their vineyards and stop the worst of the mildew from setting in.

In a fact sheet sent out by Riverland Wine, reports of infection with downy mildew had been reported, and the industry body encouraged growers to be vigilant as temperatures rose and conditions for mildew became more likely.

“There had been some risks of infection on or around 13th and/or 24th or 25th October, and as reported earlier there have been low risk of infection on other earlier dates,” the report stated.

“The rains from 9pm 30th October to 9am 1st November 2022 ranged from 1.4mm at Yamba to 27.6.0mm at Loxton. At all sites, these rains did not trigger further downy mildew from either

primary or secondary infection.

“Many vineyards have low levels of oilspots; quite a few have many. As the vines approach flowering and the berries set and expand, the risk from downy infection of the fruit is high and all care is needed to protect the secondary spread of downy.

“It is important to know if you have oilspots in your vineyard and therefore, to know the risk of secondary spread if the conditions become favourable.

“Watch the weather forecasts for rain events that could lead to possible secondary infection. Look for warmhumid night conditions with the leaves wet in the early morning.”

Growers in the Riverina experienced similar challenges and Riverina Winegrowers CEO Jeremy Cass said conditions for producers had been horrendous.

“We had about three inches of rain the Sunday before last, and that’s on top of an already saturated soil. So there’s just water everywhere,” he said.

“People were just having to get back on the ground and drain it out. We got

another small deluge of an inch or so to two.

“We’ve looked at the long term averages, and we’re still two months till the end of the year, and we’re only about two inches away from getting the highest ever rainfall in recorded history.”

He said the disease pressure in the Riverina was considerable and that growers had already had to contend with an outbreak of downy mildew.

“We’ve already seen a primary outbreak of downy mildew here, which at this stage of the game can be very detrimental to the crop, insofar as it will take the crop,” he continued.

“We’re monitoring it fairly closely. I would say we will be getting some contacts in the near future once guys have been able to get in there and clear the backlog of work out of the road.

“We did get declared a natural disaster area. So that’s probably got some implications going forward for maybe cheap loans or some low grants; we’re yet to discover what that is for people who have been most affected.”

- Report by Harrison Davies

The revival started in Spain where Garnacha, as Grenache is known there, was the country’s most-planted grape until a reverence for Tempranillo dislodged it from the top spot. Because Garnacha is particularly tolerant of drought, and its hard wood means it has not suffered from the vine trunk diseases that have decimated plantings of many other vine varieties. In a recent article published in the Financial Times, renowned wine critic Jancis Robinson said the variety is regarded by winemakers the world over as “a sort of holy grail”.

Hundred-day Sicily harvest promises “excellent vintage”

Sicily’s hundred-day harvest concluded at the end of October on Mount Etna following months of “favourable” weather contributing to healthy grapes and ultimately an “excellent vintage”. According to Harpers , the entire growing cycle is said to have benefitted from good weather, which began with a rainy autumn, followed by a winter with less rainfall and a cold spring. The high temperatures and dryness of the Sicilian summer inhibited the spread of vine diseases and affected, only in some areas, the drop in production by about 5-10 per cent.

Champagne winegrower sees his electric bill skyrocket

“When we saw the painful bill, we thought it just couldn’t be possible”, sighed winegrower Christophe Pernet at the helm of Jean Pernet Champagnes, which has 15ha under vine in Le Mesnil-surOger, Marne. Until now, his three-year electricity contract, which expired on 31 October, cost him 18,000 euros a year. His supplier offered to renew the contract to the tune of €86,000, a fivefold increase. “If you scale that down to our output, the increase is more than 50 euro cents per bottle for electricity alone,” Pernet told Vitisphere. He eventually settled for a better rate of €55,000/year from a competitor supplier – only a threefold increase on his previous contract.

Old vines could futureproof wine against climate change

Rising temperatures mean grapes have been maturing faster than before, leading to higher alcohol content and weaker colours and aromas that can jeopardise wines’ character. Reuters reported that the publicly-funded Vine and Wine Research Institute, known by its Spanish acronym ICVV, is studying the genomes of the most commonly used grape varieties in the region of La Rioja, where wine has been made since the Middle Ages. It has determined that vines aged 35 years and older appear to cope better with climate change because they are more genetically diverse.

Mendoza declares emergency after late season frost

Mendoza’s government in Argentina declared an agricultural state of emergency following two nights of devastating frost in early November which impacted over 10,000ha of vineyards as well as other crops. Temperatures in some areas plummeted to -4.5°C with the region of San Carlos in the southern Uco Valley most affected. Some vineyards reported almost total losses. “In our Los Indios vineyard in El Cepillo in San Carlos we have 90% frost damage,” agronomist for Doña Paula, Martín Kaiser, told the Drinks Business.

Russia-Ukraine war drives up glass prices

Wine Business reported that the ongoing war in Ukraine has had an unexpected impact on the global wine trade –it’s driven up the price and availability of wine bottles and glassware. Pier Sfriso, owner of Sfriso Winery in Treviso, Italy, was told in April that bottle prices were about to rise by 15-20%. At the end of August he was notified that prices would rise another 22%. “A lot of suppliers are telling us take it or leave it,” he said. “If you ask for 15,000 bottles, they say they can supply 3,000 and will deliver when they can.” Sfriso added that there are fewer types of bottles to choose from, with prestige sparkling bottles more difficult to find.

Once scorned, Grenache enjoys an international revival

R&DatWork

Management plan for Grapevine leafroll disease and Shiraz disease on the horizon for growers

A newly completed project sets out a plan for Australian grapegrowers to better manage Grapevine leafroll disease (GLD) and Shiraz disease in vineyards.

The project, funded by Wine Australia, did not embark on any new research. Instead, the focus was on evaluating current knowledge from within Australia and overseas of how to respond to the target viruses.

The best practice guide, ‘Grapevine leafroll disease and Shiraz disease: interim recommendations for management in Australian vineyards’ – authored by international expert Dr Vaughn Bell from the New Zealand Institute for Plant and Food Research – contains the latest research information. It details a multi-tactic, whole-of-industry response, focussed

on preventative measures and early intervention to reduce and contain virus spread.

Key recommendations from the guide highlight the importance of:

• early detection of virus infection in grapevines

• identifying and removing diseased grapevines, and

• monitoring and managing the insects responsible for the spread of the viruses within and between vineyards.

The guide also reinforces the importance of sourcing vines certified as virus-free when planting.

New Zealand Winegrowers, the national industry body in NZ, began tackling Grapevine leafroll disease (GLD) in the early 2000s and Dr Bell said that in the years following, growers gained considerable experience in

implementing an in-vineyard response to these economically important viruses.

The recommendations in the guide are based on the NZ experience and current Australian knowledge. There are sections on visual symptom identification, effective roguing, the importance of vectors and their management and best practice testing procedures, supported by decision support trees.

“Many of the ideas and responses described in the Wine Australia project report have been tried and tested in New Zealand, and while differences in grape growing between countries are acknowledged, many virus management principles are similar and can be applied in Australian vineyards with confidence,” Dr Bell said.

Dr Bell said some of the concepts proposed in the Australian guide will be new to many growers, so implementing all aspects of the proposed management plan may be challenging. However, he stressed the importance of initial action.

“A good starting point is to at least begin assessing virus incidence across the vineyard. A good understanding of virus incidence in different single variety blocks is the basis for other decisions.”

More detail on the Guide can be found on the Wine Australia website. ¢

Research captures the impacts of vineyard floor management

The more plant species and plant cover you have on your entire vineyard floor, the higher soil organic carbon and water infiltration rates you will see as a result, preliminary findings of a new study suggest.

The research project compared 25 vineyard sites in McLaren Vale and the Barossa which have been using different vineyard floor management practices for at least the past three seasons.

Soil measurements and plant diversity were then evaluated seasonally at each vineyard during one growing season.

“This approach aimed to uncover any trends associated with how particular practices across a viticultural landscape, such as herbicide-use, cultivation, grazing, and cover crops, influenced dynamics related to soil health and biodiversity,” said Merek Kesser, a viticultural PhD candidate at the University of Adelaide, and a Wine Australia PhD scholarship recipient.

RESEARCHER IN FOCUS

Merek Kesser

said the Barossa and McLaren Vale regions provided excellent opportunities to carry out this research as they are both premium wineproducing areas with a high density of land used by vineyards.

“It is unusual to use entire vineyard sites as replicates in a scientific study, yet we did just this as we thought it was important to capture what is happening on a larger scale in the sector. Studying at the landscape level allowed for the assessment of how management practices can have different outcomes depending on the many site-driven factors that come into effect, including for example, soil type.”

While results are still in the preliminary stage, Merek said it was apparent that practices which increased the number of plant species and the duration of complete plant coverage (in both the mid- and undervine areas) resulted in soils with faster water infiltration rates and higher contents of organic carbon.

“In Australian conditions where access to ample irrigation water is a major concern, these are very insightful findings, which if taken into consideration could have a great influence on the environmental health of viticultural landscapes.”

In Australian conditions where access to ample irrigation water is a major concern, these are very insightful findings, which … could have a great influence on the environmental health of viticultural landscapes

Merek said integrating a living mulch of diverse or native plant species into the under-vine area would ultimately benefit the functionality of the soil and improve long-term vineyard resilience.

She said the research could help growers in selecting floor management strategies going forward, “which can maximise the long-term resilience and sustainability of their vineyard based on their specific production goals and site constraints.”

“With increasing pressures from external factors such as changing climate, more frequent droughts, and shortages of farm inputs including fertilisers, we are hopeful that simple vineyard floor management strategies such as keeping complete living plant coverage year-round on vineyard floors could provide holistic agroecosystem benefits.” ¢

Merek

Standard for grapevine propagation material a step closer

Phase 1 of a project to deliver national certified standards for grapevine propagation material has been completed.

Grapevine propagation standards will provide assurance to growers, vineyard managers and winemakers that any new grapevine planting material has been produced in a way that demonstrates best practice in virus and grapevine trunk disease management, traceability and identity verification.

Nick Dry from Foundation Viticulture, who has been working in consultation with the wine and propagation sector on the organisational and regulatory framework for the Standard as well as an implementation model, said it was an important step forward for the Australian grape and wine sector.

“It is well recognised that the impacts of propagation and planting material related problems – including virus, trunk disease, off-types and general poor performance – are a significant costburden to vineyard end-users,” said Nick.

“The fact that cuttings and planting material also have minimal to zero external or physical attributes indicating that they carry pathogen, genetic or performance risks also creates ‘quality uncertainty’ for both customers and suppliers.”

Nick said the development of robust and well-managed grapevine propagation certification programs that are built on defendable best science would provide pathogen, genetic and

performance assurance to suppliers and customers.

“The recent identification of grapevine red blotch virus has further highlighted the importance of investing in the development of certified standards as a means to protect commercial vineyard assets,” he said.

Phase 1 of the project set the over-arching quality assurance objective(s) and the organisational and regulatory framework for a standard. An implementation model was also developed, which covers development of the written standards, delivering and adopting the standards and a review phase. Phase 2a commenced in October and will address the immediate priorities for the sector.

These include the development of a source block asset register, quantifying the value proposition for certified planting material, continuing to develop detail around governance and funding as well as developing and implementing a communication strategy.

“Research projects will also be required to underpin the Standard. For example, a scientific basis will be developed for managing virus and trunk disease in the propagation supply chain. ”

“Ultimately the end-goal is to have scientifically-validated standards in place by 2026 that will cover the whole of the propagation supply chain,” said Nick.

“To achieve this we will continue to work in concert with propagation stakeholders including the Vine Industry Nursery Association and the State and regional vine improvement groups.” ¢

Capturing agtech experiences of Australian producers

Wine Australia has developed a new video series Reading between the vines that aims to capture how Australian grape growers and winemakers are using the latest agtech in vineyards and wineries.

In the series, grapegrowers and winemakers discuss their experiences using agtech, the types of technologies they’re deploying and how these are driving better outcomes.

Producers and technologies featured in the series so far include:

• Brooke Howell from Yalumba who has been using a mobile app from Onside to improve operational safety and security across their Barossa vineyards

• Nigel Blieschke from Torbreck who has been using Swan System’s water and nutrient management software to improve vine consistency at Torbreck’s Barossa vineyards

• Hans Loder from Penley Estate who has been using Athena Irrigation’s system to gain a greater understanding of grapevine water requirements

• Another interview with Hans Loder about what he has found through his Nuffield Scholarship investigating maximising the benefits from agtech for viticulture, and

• Tony Hoare from Beach Road Wines in McLaren Vale who has been using the Arable mark 2 weather station for hyper-localised weather insights at his vineyards

Upcoming episodes will include:

• James Meyer from Hill River Clare Estate in Clare Valley who has been working with Airborne Logic to produce precise digital maps for detailed vineyard analysis

• Rob Sutherland and Emma Taylor from Debortoli Wines Yarra Valley vineyards who have been using Bitwise Agronomy’s Greenview system to support site management with its vine-based image technology.

• Ben Thomson from Bests Wines in Grampians who has been using Smart Apply to reduce vineyard spray application through its active sensor technology.

View the series at Wine Australia’s Agtech Hub – wineaustralia.com/ growing-making/agtech-hub or subscribe to Wine Australia on YouTube. ¢

Future Leaders 2023 – applications opening in January

Applications will open in January for the next vintage of the grape and wine sector’s leadership program Future Leaders.

Inspiring individuals with inquisitive minds from across the grape and wine sector value chain are encouraged to apply.

The five-month program tailored for the grape and wine sector equips professionals with new skills to enhance their contribution to the community. It supports a new generation of grape and wine sector leaders to develop skills, sharpen decision-making abilities, build networks, and form a nucleus of knowledge and enthusiasm to take the sector forward, in good times and bad.

More than 100 leaders in the Australian grape and wine community have completed the program and are all parts of the grape and wine value chain – from viticulture and winemaking to marketing, sales and export, ecommerce and market development, managers, regional associations, research, and production.

Future Leaders 2022 graduate Steve Faulkner, Senior Viticulturist at Oakridge Wines said, “The learning and real-life application of that learning has been invaluable. I recommend applying for Future Leaders, just do it. Personal development and leadership skills for life lie ahead if you are successful.”

Visit winefutureleaders.com for more information and to apply. ¢

Wine Australia Industry House, cnr Botanic & Hackney Roads Adelaide SA 5000 PO Box 2733 Kent Town SA 5071 08 8228 2000 research@wineaustralia.com wineaustralia.com • t l

Vineyard Equipment

Gearing up for vintage

What are the vineyard equipment essentials?

Viticulturists and vineyard managers have multiple uses for many of the types of equipment found in the vineyard. For this special roundtable, Harrison Davies spoke to several operators to find out what their tools of choice are when working in the vines.

The viticulturist at Xanadu Wines in Margaret River, Underdown has a focus on quality of work and using sustainable practices. As all great wine starts in the vineyard, Underdown’s vision reflects Xanadu’s overarching ethos: crafting outstanding wines that embody all the region has to offer. He believes that sustainable and responsible viticultural methods will create better fruit and, in turn, better wine.

Mike Hayes

A viticulture and winemaking consultant from Queensland’s Granite Belt, Hayes has a history in wine stretching back to 1979. Alongside his consulting firm, Vine to Wine, Hayes has a passion for working within the industry to help growers develop best practice techniques in their vineyard in order to produce the best fruit their region can offer.

Based in Heathcote, Victoria, McInnes is the vineyard manager for varietal pioneers Chalmers. In his role he has opportunities to work the vineyards and has experience with a selection of alternative varieties like Nero d’Avola and Vermentino.

Rob Underdown

Rob Underdown

Troy McInnes

Having good equipment that provides quality of the job and efficiency are things that I look at more when I consider equipment.

The viticulturists

Xanadu viticulturist Rob Underdown

Vine to Wine consultant Mike Hayes

Vineyard manager Troy McInnes

What type of vineyard equipment do you use?

Underdown: We use several brands of equipment in our vineyards. For tractors, we always use Kubota and for fungicide sprayers we always use FMR and Greentech; our harvester is a Nairne to tow behind and we use a Pellenc for trimming the rows. We use Eagle nets and then a variety of other brands for our ancillary equipment

Hayes: I worked in many vineyards as a consultant in Queensland and I currently consult for about eight vineyards. The majority of the vineyards have our local tractor which is a Kubota tractor, which seems to be one of the big tractors up here on the Granite Belt. We use mowers as well for mowing the inter-rows and spray carts when we’re spraying the canopy.

McInnes: We’ve got different cultivation gear, or chisel, ploughs and power arrows and rotary hose feeders for seeding, grasses and clover in the midrows. We’ve also got an spray over-row spray unit for fungal diseases and control. How important is equipment in your vineyard?

Underdown: Equipment is super important to the maintenance and upkeep of our vineyards at Xanadu. Without it, our vineyard is unsustainable. We have a regular maintenance schedule

for all equipment and make sure it’s in good shape for the season. The choice of equipment is also equally important. We need to make sure we have the right equipment to do the right job.

Hayes: what we focus on in the vineyard is a lot of manpower. We hand prune, we actually hand lift the wires, we hand shoot-thin, we hand leaf pluck and we hand bunch the grapes. Of course, we manually harvest to provide manpower.

McInnes: Couldn’t work without our equipment basically. It’s just too hard to rely on contractors to do all these jobs, so to have your own equipment is definitely far better.

When investing in new equipment, what do you look for?

Underdown: We always look for equipment that will meet our needs in the vineyard and capability to complete the tasks we need done is a priority. Value for money is, as one would expect, also important. Having equipment that is of high-quality and efficiency. We always ask ourselves; can it be flexible to match our multiple row widths?

Hayes: Some people with larger vineyards need to have some mechanical help. So therefore, what we look at is automatic shoot thinning, and what we’re looking at there is the de-stemming of the trunks; so all the suckers and shoots on the trunks. I’ve also got brushers now

which can go along at the front of your tractor, and can do two rows in one hit just by driving down there and brush all the shoots off, which saves an enormous amount of manpower. The other thing that you can look at is a leaf plucker. They ensure that we go along and pluck the leaves away from the fruiting zone. However, they don’t do as good a job or aren’t as efficient, in my opinion, as good old manual labour.

McInnes: Something that’s been used and proven. The quality with sprayers, how good is the coverage for disease control because coverage is key, and also durability of those machines.

• Strong vapour and translaminar activity

• Apply to E-L 31 for grapes grown for export wine

• Unique mode of action to control resistant strains

• Strong vapour and translaminar activity

• Apply to E-L 31 for grapes grown for export wine

• Good residual control

followed by Kusabi for optimal powdery mildew control

What are some of your favourite things to use in the vineyard?

Underdown: My favourite thing to have in the vineyard is definitely the harvester. It’s fun to use and really helps to speed up the process when we are harvesting during vintage.

Hayes: Boots on the ground. Like I always say, the best fertiliser you can put on your vineyard is your own footsteps. So if you’re out there looking in your vineyard, you can see what parts aren’t healthy and what are healthy and so on.

Underdown: I don’t believe its super important to have the most technologically advanced equipment in the vineyard. Having good equipment that provides quality of the job and efficiency are things that I look at more when I consider equipment.

Hayes: Technology has advanced immeasurably at the present time, such as tractors to reduce the compacting of soil around the root; there are many different models out now which reduce that soil compaction and the root

A lot of our practices are coming back but there’s a lot of new technology, which is absolutely amazing. Some of the tractors they’re building now are small and compact but very powerful so it’s really a combination of both.

McInnes: I don’t need to have the biggest and best that’s on the market, just something that’s reliable and does a good job. We have a rotary hoe that’s 40 years old and it still works the soil. We’ve got a grape harvester, it’s only probably 10 years old now with a slight dip process whereas the older machines never had that. So something older may or may not be as good in that scenario, but some of the older equipment is sufficient to do what you need to get done.

How can different type of equipment influence work in the vineyard?

Troy McInnes

McInnes: Probably the harvester itself with the new select process sorting on the machines themselves. So they take out all the MOG on the material other than grapes. So you’re left with a premium quality sample.

Is it more important to have the most technologically advanced equipment or are there standard classics that you rely on?

compaction of the vines as you’re driving down the row. But it’s really a blend of a lot of people going back to what they call the silly plough now, which is an undervine weeding machine. It’s mid mounted in between the small wheel and the big wheel on the tractor, or between the two wheel bases of the tractor and it goes in and out hyperbolically and pulls the weeds out from underneath the row, and then just misses the grapevine and goes in again.

Underdown: We have different row widths at the Xanadu vineyards, so we need equipment that can be used in all situations. Unfortunately, this is not possible, so some rows have to be driven twice.

Hayes: The size of the vineyard has a lot to count once you’re getting up to 200-300 acres, or even 100 acres, you’ve really got to hone in on mechanisation to save labour costs and particularly now as it’s hard to find labour. So while you’re looking to the future, and you’re looking at mechanisation or auto farming, the main reason behind that is because we haven’t got the workers.

McInnes: Just time efficiency. Things like that make things quicker and easier to be able to do a job on time.

Ocloc by Ocvitti delivering trellising solutions

Wooden vineyard trellis is expensive to maintain, upgrade or change. The advent of the Ocloc trellis system has eased the overall cost and potential expense of maintaining any espalier trellis, from simple two-wire to intricate multi-wire vertical shoot or Scott Henry systems. Ocloc’s simple design also alleviates the need for staples or retrofitted clips. “I now only use Ocvitti vineposts for all trellis replacements and have not used a CCA wooden post as a vine row replacement since,” said Dick Bryksy, Operations Manager Kirribilly Viticulture Clare.

Treated pine posts pose a huge problem for every vineyard and the environment. Ocvitti’s Ocloc V was designed to specifically repair broken wooden posts to alleviate the endless stockpiling

of treated pine and the consequent ecological problems associated with their retention and disposal.

Designed and produced in Australia from high tensile steel and supplied with a premium Galfan coating for longevity, Ocloc V is a cost effective and long-term fix for broken CCA and creosote-treated pine posts and can easily be applied in situ.

Ocloc V is the most cost-effective way to maintain and fix trellis wooden posts, costing a quarter of the price of traditional post replacement. Installing Ocloc V is a simple and quick process and, most importantly, keeps CCA and creosote posts in vineyards and out of landfill.

“Ocloc V repair system for treated CCA and creosote posts allows us to fix our broken wood posts at under a third of the cost of replacement, reducing our post piles, helping us with our environmental responsibility,” said Torbreck viticulturist Nigel Blieschke.

“At Duxton Vineyards we are committed to better management of our waste, aligned with our wider sustainability goals and targets. Ocloc V is a great step in the right direction with huge cost and operational benefits,” said Dylan Klingbeil, environmental manager at Duxton Vineyards

Ocloc products are totally recyclable and accredited for biodynamic use, with many growers declaring “they tick all the boxes”.

WOOD REPAIRS OCLOC MADE IN AUSTRALIA

ADVANTAGES

• Ocloc repair posts are an inexpensive fix for broken wooden posts

• Keeps existing posts in the ground acting as a secure repair

• 20% the cost of post replacement

• Single pass repair, no wire removal required

• No post removal, no post graveyard

• Available in Galfan or Galvaspan coated High Tensile steel for strength and durability

Sustainability

EcoVineyards goes national

EcoVineyards, a program that aims to promote environmental stewardship and agroecological best management practices in vineyards, spent last month launching in winegrowing regions across Australia. Harrison Davies joined EcoVineyards program manager and Retallack Viticulture managing director, Dr Mary Retallack, to see how the launch was going.

The national EcoVineyards program is funded by Wine Australia and run by Retallack Viticulture Pty Ltd. It aims to educate winegrape growers about building functional ecosystems in their vineyards.

These ecosystems include native insectary plants which help to support populations of arthropod predators, which contribute towards biocontrol of vineyard insect pests and may ultimately lead to reduced input costs and use of chemicals.

The program has seen success in South Australia and over the month of November saw its launch nationally.

Program manager Dr Mary Retallack said she was eager to share the existing South Australian model with a broader audience in new winegrowing regions after having received “a tremendous amount of interest from growers interstate”.

“The response has been overwhelmingly positive with lots of engagement and interaction from growers.”

The national launch kicked off in Orange in mid-October and Dr Retallack, as well as soil health researcher Dr Mary Cole, have since hosted a series of field days and seminars exploring the benefits of grapegrowing with an ecological focus. They held events in the Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek and the Adelaide Hills in in early November and later hosted events in New South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia throughout the rest of the month.

“There was lots of interaction and practical tips for growers about transitioning from the use of synthetic fertilisers and making existing nutrients plant available,” Dr Retallack said.

“We have been capturing the responses from growers on our social media platforms Facebook and Instagram via the @EcoVineyards handle and the response so far has been fantastic.

“I am excited about the capacity to broaden our reach to new winegrowing regions and to keep expanding our

capacity to provide tailored information to winegrowers throughout Australia.”

Dr Retallack said that helping growers find ways to be more sustainable was key for the future of the industry and she hoped the program would be a platform for the industry to move forward.

“We are sharing information with winegrowers about how to work smarter rather than harder and break the cycle of intervention to achieve longer term solutions. We are also working with the intelligence of nature rather than against it,” she said.

“The underlying principles of agroecology work in harmony with nature and are

complementary to achieving positive outcomes in the vineyard. The living components of soil underpins soil health and our capacity to grow healthy grapevines, this leads to healthy production systems and supports greater resilience.

“Our focus areas are functional biodiversity, ground cover, including cover crops, and soil health; there is something for everyone.

“We provide growers with new information so they can make decisions that are best for their property and we are not prescriptive, so growers don’t need to be farming in a certain way to take the next steps towards practical change.”

We are also working with the intelligence of nature rather than against it.

Dr Mary Retallack

EcoVineyards program manager Dr Mary Retallack

Dr Mary Cole addresses growers at the Langhorne Creek launch of EcoVineyards

Crittenden Estate celebrates 40 years

Marking four decades of game changing sustainability

1982 was the start of the Crittenden story. While the family might not have known it then, the winery would become a big part of kick-starting not just a thriving wine region but a new way to grow vines. Journalist Harrison Davies investigates why the anniversary of the winery is important to the industry as a whole.

In 1982, Crittenden Estate founders Garry and Margaret Crittenden decided to plant five acres of vines on the Mornington Peninsula – instantly doubling the aggregated plantings on the peninsula on top of starting their own winemaking operation.

The Mornington Peninsula didn’t have a history of winemaking at the time and wasn’t recognised as a winemaking region.

Since planting those first acres, Crittenden Estate went on to also bring attention to little known Italian winegrape varieties like Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera and

Sangiovese, by being the first in Australia to produce these commercially. All of these varieties are now industry mainstays in their own right.

Current winemaker and the son of Garry and Margaret, Rollo Crittenden, was only six years old when the first vines were planted. He said his parents were merely ‘following their passions’ when those initial plantings of Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot and Chardonnay went into the ground with the help of family and friends on a single weekend four decades ago.

• MOG levels verified from 0.02% (premium) to 0.4% (high

• Increase winery throughput efficiency by 23% from MOG1 to MOG0

• No MOG related expenses at the winery

• Increase grape harvest weight

• Decrease juice loss through harvester fans

• Models to suit any grape harvester - any vineyard

• No grape maceration No loss of harvesting speed

• Easy to set up, operate and maintain

• 34% reduction in Cineole com pound

• up to 10% increase in yield for the grower, with reduced har vester fan speed

Sustainability

Garry Crittenden

Mark Pengilly (pictured) - Manager - Orange Vineyards, Tamburlaine Organic Wines,

Wine Australia Verified Trial Vintage 22

Dad was always interested in thinking outside the square and trying to work out if there’s a different way of doing something, a better way of doing something or a new and innovative way of doing something.

Rollo Crittenden

“When my Mum and Dad [who had been a horticulturist] planted the vineyard in September of 1982, they doubled the entire plantings on the Mornington Peninsula by planting just five acres of vines,” he said.

“I think there’s now a cumulative total of about 2600 acres of vines [in the region].

“Through the hard work of many vineyards, [the Mornington Peninsula] has become one of Australia’s flagship, cool climate wine regions; in particular, the wine region has been synonymous with growing some of the best Pinot Noir in the country.

“I don’t know that my parents had that sort of vision or that understanding that that’s where it would end up when they planted 40 years ago. But it is delightful to be where we are and we’re delighted to be a part of that process and still going.”

Chasing dreams of sustainability

‘Organic’ and ‘sustainable’ are words that are thrown around frequently now,

but they weren’t when the Crittendens starting using sustainable and regenerative practices.

Crittenden Estate’s reputation as a bastion of sustainability only commenced around 25 years into the history of the brand. Prior to that, the land had been tended fairly conventionally through the use of chemical fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides.

Rollo said that, at that time, they had been looking at their soil and saw that it was chalky and unhealthy – less than ideal for growing healthy winegrape vines.

He continued to explain that while their contemporaries would reach for the chemical cupboard any time the vines were under stress, they thought there had to be a better way.

“I was brought up in a in a very can-do family; one that always thinks outside the square,” he said.

“Dad was always interested in thinking outside the square and trying to work

Crittenden Estate

Planting the original vines at Crittenden Estate in 1982.

Rollo and Garry Crittenden in 1988

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They’ve taken on board that soil health effect is the paramount thing to watch that will lead to plant health and vine health, and therefore the quality of the wines.

Dr Mary Cole

out if there’s a different way of doing something, a better way of doing something or a new and innovative way of doing something.

“When you look at our sustainable and regenerative viticultural practices, they were born out of a realisation that we had a bit of a problem with our vineyard planted in 1982 and farmed fairly conventionally for the first 25 years.

“At the time we believed that our fruit quality should be getting better and better due to vine age, that wasn’t actually happening.

“We realised that through this conventional farming and the cumulative effects of the chemicals that we’d been administering for so long, they were cumulating in the soil and really killing out the beneficial fungus and bacteria that we’d like to see.

“[Dad] went into the vineyard 15 years ago and dug up a lot of dirt and it was like chalk, it would just break up into dust and dissipate – there was no life in the soil.

“We sought a lot of advice and through reading, the first thing we realised that we needed to do was to eradicate those synthetic chemicals.”

Since taking the leap to remove chemicals

Crittenden Estate produces around 400 cubic metres of compost each year for use in the vineyard.

Rollo Crittenden

altogether from the viticultural practices used in the vineyard, Crittenden Estate has become a textbook example of how farming more sustainably can provide clear benefits.

The goal of the Crittenden family’s sustainability projects was always to improve soil health, rather than maintaining a static level of nutrition, by employing techniques like composting, inter-row cropping and organic sprays to help the vines grow as well as possible.

Rollo said the results have spoken for themselves and his family has seen the industry rally around the ideas they first championed 15 years ago.

“We do inter-row cropping and we use a mix of fava beans, snow peas and ryegrass and we let that grow up to a critical mass in the mid-row. Then, we roll that back into the soil with a crimping roller and that slowly breaks down into the soil,” he said.

“It helps retain moisture in the soil as well over the warmer months. The root system of those inter-row crops that we plant in between the vines, they penetrate down to that mycorrhizal layer and the root systems of those inter-row crops, the fava beans and ryegrass and peas, a site where the beneficial bacteria adhere to and function.

“The other thing that we do is we create around 400 cubic metres of compost each year. We do that by taking the by-product of the winery, which is the grape stalks and the seeds, and we combine that with local horse stables’ manure, and also something like wood.

“We create this huge compost heap on site and we break that down over the winter months, compost it down.

“Around October each year we spread the compost. So that’s adding organic material back into the soil and it’s also an inoculant for the beneficial fungus and bacteria that we’re looking to achieve.”

When Crittenden began using such organic practices, they were seen as ‘hippies’ and many did not take them seriously.

But as the years have passed, other producers have followed in their pioneering footsteps and embraced similar techniques to create healthier conditions for their own vines.

“I’m really proud when I show people through our vineyard or talk about our wines and have them taste our wines - to explain that this is an integral part of what we do and how we achieve what we do gives me a great sense of pride.”

Now and in the future

Since Crittenden Estate began its organic crusade, growing with sustainable practices has become commonplace throughout the winegrowing community and the value of caring for one’s soil is now widely recognised throughout the sector.

Academic and plant pathologist Dr Mary Cole, from agricultural consultancy Agpath, has built her career on sustainable, healthy soil farming and has worked with Crittenden for many years.

Rollo Crittenden.

Dr Cole said Crittenden has set a strong example for the rest of the industry to follow.

“Rollo was a student of mine at Charles Sturt University back in the ‘90s, so I’ve known the family for quite a while and they’ve always been forward thinking,” she said.

“Not only forward thinking, they’ve actually taken on information and they’ve implemented it.

“I’ve worked on and off with them all through this time and things like having good mid-row multispecies, having good green cover right across the vineyard from headland to headland – all of this is positive.

“They’ve taken on board that soil health effect is the paramount thing to watch that will lead to plant health and vine health, and therefore the quality of the wines.

“The recognition that they’re getting for their wines around the world is proof of the fact that if you do everything right in the soil, then everything above the ground is just almost a given.”

That global recognition of Crittenden’s leadership in sustainability and wine quality was cemented a handful of years ago when the winery became the ‘platinum’ winner at the 2020 BRIT/FIVS International Sustainable Winegrowing Competition, run by the Botanical Research Institute of Texas and FIVS, a French-based international federation of sustainability-minded wine organisations.

Sadly, Margaret Crittenden died two years ago, leaving her many contributions to Crittenden Estate, the Mornington Peninsula wine region and the wider wine industry as a significant and lasting legacy.

While Garry is now “semi-retired,” he remains a pivotal figure in the Crittenden vineyard and winery, leaving Rollo and sister Zoe to run the business.

Photos are courtesy of Crittenden Estate

Vintage staffing: a return to normalcy?

Journalist Harrison Davies takes the pulse of the current vintage employment situation which is now, hopefully, in a state of recovery

Wine businesses had to scramble to find staff to fill positions in all aspects of the vineyard and winery in Vintage ‘22. But with international borders now open and workers flooding in from overseas, the tide could be finally turning.

Since the borders reopened, roughly 250,000 visitor visa applications have been lodged each month with the Department of Home Affairs, roughly half of what was normal prior to the pandemic.

Wine producers are hoping that this influx of people will be enough to reduce the challenges they faced during the past vintage when staff were hard to come by.

Jacob Stein, chief winemaker at Robert Stein Winery at Mudgee in New South Wales, said his operation had faced serious challenges in finding vintage staff.

“It was quite difficult to be able to source numerous candidates with the skill level required to take on a busy and stressful 2022 vintage,” he said.

“We also had less than a quarter of the normal candidates or applications that we would have had in pre-COVID years. So it made it very difficult to have the options available to get different skilled labour.”

Margaret River had been experiencing similar problems this past year, after the

Winemaker Jacob Stein (left) and Robert Stein at Robert Stein Winery. Photo: Define Wine

state’s borders had re-opened, a boom in demand created a challenge as personnel – especially hospitality staff – were difficult to come by.

“We’ve got labour shortages in the region, as probably the whole country is […] not running at full capacity,” Margaret River Wine Association CEO Amanda Whiteland said.

Stein said that preparations for Vintage 2023 were more promising in terms of staff than the previous year, with more candidates, and skilled candidates in particular, putting their names in the hat.

He added that hiring process had begun earlier than usual as a response to the challenges of recent seasons.

“We started earlier than normal, just because of the difficulties that we had in the last year,” he said.

“For next year, we’ve had quite a decent amount of influx of inquiries regarding our social media and industry jobs,

advertising advertisement for those roles. “We’ve already got numerous positions filled and looking to confirm them over the next weeks. So it’s looking to be much more positive for next year at this stage.”

This bodes well for producers who are looking for at least one return to normalcy atop the rest of the ongoing challenges that the industry is facing.

The Federal Government has indicated that international border closures were likely to be a thing of the past, another encouraging sign for 2023.

“Just thank God that the borders are open and we can get international visitors again because last year was quite hard; just spreading everyone out thinly during a stressful vintage was quite hard,” Stein said.

“We’re looking forward to having much better conditions and a full staff roster for next year.”

We also had less than a quarter of the normal candidates or applications that we would have had in pre-COVID years. So it made it very difficult to have the options available to get different skilled labour.”

Jacob Stein

Clonal mapping of Pinot Noir

Loss of source blocks in Adelaide Hills bushfires leads to clonal identification for Pinot Noir

By Prue Henschke¹ and Dr Anthony Borneman²

Introduction

Prior to the 2019-20 bushfires, Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement (AHVI) had the majority of Pinot Noir source blocks in South Australia, providing around 400,000 high health status cuttings to the Australian wine industry annually. The Cudlee Creek bushfire in December 2019 destroyed six out of 28 source blocks, significantly reducing the supply of high-demand clonal planting material to industry. While potential vineyards for new source blocks were identified, there was a lack of evidence on the provenance of the clonal material, specifically for the sought-after Pinot Noir clone D4V2. Being aware of the release of the Chardonnay clonal map in 2018 by AWRI researchers, led by Dr Anthony Borneman, AHVII approached the AWRI to help clarify the identity of proposed alternate source blocks of

Pinot Noir D4V2. A project proposal was developed and funding of $247,440 was provided by PIRSA’s South Australian Wine Industry Development Scheme (SAWIDS), AWRI, Wine Australia and AHVII. The project aimed to identify genetic markers for individual Pinot Noir

clones and to provide a way to identify potential sources of high-confidence germplasm for the re-establishment of source blocks within the Adelaide Hills.

Sequencing a wide selection of germplasm

A broad range of Pinot Noir germplasm was sequenced by the AWRI, allowing the generation of a foundational sequence dataset of Pinot Noir clones, including key clones lost to bushfire damage. The project is a world-first application of state-of-the-art whole genome sequencing for the assessment of genetic diversity in Pinot Noir grapevines.

Leaf samples were obtained from a set of 197 grapevines representing 30 different Pinot Noir clones from across 21 sites. Within this set were six independent representatives of D4V2 and multiple representatives of most other clones. A subset of 96 vines was then selected

The project is a worldfirst application of state-of-the-art whole genome sequencing for the assessment of genetic diversity in Pinot Noir grapevines.

Trial site of the two Pinot Noir clones, MV6 clone (right side) and the D4V2 variant (left side) at the vineyard in Kuitpo

that captured the major clonal groups. Genomic DNA was extracted from leaf samples of these 96 representative clones and subjected to genome sequencing followed by the clonalmarker identification pipeline developed by the AWRI. As a doublecheck, all samples were shown to have genetic backgrounds consistent with the targeted cultivar, Pinot Noir.

Identifying genetic differences and compiling a clonal family tree

A total of 3,208 marker single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) were characterised across the 96 samples. The pattern of variation across these markers was used to uniquely identify each clonal sample and to then group samples into a phylogenetic network based upon their genetic similarity (Figure 1).

Genetic relationships were shown to be robust across multiple samples of the same clone. DNA typing data also supported known historic ancestry and/or geographic relationships, including:

• G8V7 (FPS 15) and G8V3 (FPS 13) both have origins in the Martini vineyard, California (1966) (https://fps.ucdavis.edu/fgrdetails. cfm?varietyid=1184)

• H7V15 (FPS 22) and D5V12 (FPS 19) being sourced from same vine (1974) (https://fps.ucdavis.edu/fgrdetails. cfm?varietyid=1184)

• UCD05 (FPS 05) and D4V2 (FPS 04) being derived from same stock via heat treatment (1965) (https://fps. ucdavis.edu/grapebook/winebook. cfm?chap=PinotNoir)

• Mariafeld, D2V5 (FPS 01A) and D2V6 (FPS 02A) having origins in Wädenswil, Switzerland (https://fps. ucdavis.edu/grapebook/winebook. cfm?chap=PinotNoir)

• MV6 and Mount Pleasant sourced from Mount Pleasant Vineyard, Hunter Valley, New South Wales (Nichols, 2006)

Understanding the outliers

Seven samples among clones 114, 115 and D4V2 (marked in red in Figure 1) were determined to be outliers compared to the

Figure 1.

consensus genetic profile associated with the expected clonal ID and may therefore represent instances in which the clone name has been mis-assigned. Given the importance of getting these predictions right, additional confirmation samples were processed for all of the outliers, which supported the results obtained for the original sample. Of particular note, the outlier set included all four samples of D4V2 from the AHVII source blocks, which displayed a genetic profile distinct from samples of D4V2 obtained from CSIRO and PIRSA and instead, clustered in a broad group with samples with origins in the Hunter Valley (MV6 and Mount Pleasant).

Which of the two conflicting D4V2 groups is correct?

It is likely that the D4V2 germplasm from CSIRO and PIRSA represents the true version of this clone in Australia.

The Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement D4V2 (AHVI-D4V2) vines have been traced back to a non-certified source from the early 1970s. There is also a

tight relationship between the CSIRO and PIRSA D4V2 and the SAVIA clone UCD05 (FPS05), which represents a heattreated sibling of D4V2 (FPS04) and adds support for this group representing the correct D4V2.

If the Adelaide Hills Vine Improvement samples are not D4V2, what are they?

The genetic data points to the AHVID4V2 vines being closely related to Pinot Noir material originally obtained from the Mount Pleasant vineyard in the Hunter Valley. Interestingly, Mount Pleasant Pinot Noir has a rich history that stems from a wonderful genetic resource of vine material that was brought to Australia by James Busby way back in 1830. It was planted in the King’s Paddock vineyard by Maurice O’Shea and was renamed to Mount Pleasant in 1921, with the grapes being used in his famous red wine blends.

However, the situation is not as simple as it seems, as the AHVI-D4V2 variant samples are neither a perfect match

Compiled clonal phylogenetic results for Pinot Noir sequencing. Node tips are shaded according to existing clone annotation and are labelled by the clone designation. Outliers are marked with a black ‘bullseye’ and the supplied clonal name.

to MV6 or the Mount Pleasant clone. Furthermore, the level of genetic diversity separating the various AHVI-D4V2 samples is much larger than expected if they are all cuttings of a single clone. In fact, rather than being one clone, it is likely that the original AHVI-D4V2 material was a mass-selected set of vines with ancestral origins from the Busby Collection of the 1830s.

Using the genetic information to inform future plantings

MV6 is considered a ‘premium’ clone and is the most widely planted Pinot Noir clone in Australia. The AHVID4V2 variant material, regardless of name, is also extremely sought after and its desirable characteristics may reflect the Mount Pleasant genetic ancestry uncovered by this study. This leads to the question as to what can be done for the existing AHVI-D4V2 variant resource? In this situation, individual samples from this mass-selected material have the potential to be specifically selected

and propagated as new clonal material under different clonal designations, or simply used as a polyclonal planting material under a different name.

To move towards this, both MV6 and UCD05 mother vines, which are planted in the SA Vine Improvement Collection, will allow for some basic viticultural comparisons. Two sites near Kuitpo in the Adelaide Hills Wine Region are planted side-by-side with the AHVI-D4V2 variant and MV6 and are currently being investigated by Adelaide Hills VI. A range of characters such as growth habit, bunch and berry structure, maturity data and wine quality are being compared. This study will provide an indication of the attributes of the AHVI-D4V2 variant as a desirable clone of Pinot Noir and how it differs from MV6. Ultimately, this can lead to the establishment of a new clonal name that reflects its unique qualities that were sourced from the original Busby Pinot Noir collection.

Detailed knowledge of clonal genetics will enhance confidence in replanting investments, facilitate vineyard recovery and improve clonal selection for wine producers across the Australian wine regions. Using the same process, the next AWRI initiative ‘The Thousand Genome project’, which is being undertaken with support from Wine Australia, will stretch across hundreds of clones from dozens of varieties available to Australian growers. As we have seen in this project with Pinot Noir, many clones have been renamed multiple times and now we have the science to re-align similar clones and identify misnamed cultivars. It will be an excellent identification tool for one of the two pillars of certified propagation material – trueness to type – the other being high health status.

More details of the project’s methodology, references and acknowledgements can be found in the Pinot Noir Clonal Mapping Project Final Report on the Wine Australia website: www.wineaustralia. com/research/projects/clonal-mappingof-pinot-noir

In the Fresh Science session at the Australian Wine Industry Technical Conference 2022, Dr Bornemann was awarded both best viticulture presentation and best viticulturally focused poster for this work on clonal genetics.

YOUNG GUN

Yianni Koutouzis

Transforming a region

A lifetime of study brought Yianni Koutouzis to a career in banking, a career that felt hollow. He followed his passion back to his homeland, the banks of the river Murray, to take up his family’s fruit growing business and start a wine label of his own. Harrison Davies spoke with Yianni about his passion for the Riverland region and why he wants to share that.

Yianni Koutouzis is a man on a mission.

Sitting on his patio looking out over a lush garden, the scenery is juxtaposed by the looming red winegrape glut that’s currently being experienced in the Riverland wine region. The region produces more fruit than any other part of the country and, yet, many

don’t even know that a winemaking culture exists there.

The Riverland has felt the squeeze of COVID-19 restrictions, supply chain disruptions and the loss of the China market more acutely than most other regions in the country.

Yianni, however, sees a new future for the region – one that balances the culture

of growing while establishing a new identity of fun and experimentation in winemaking.

“My heart and soul was here in the Riverland, where I grew up and where my parents migrated to from Greece,” he said.

“I’m just so passionate about the region, passionate about what we have here; our

River Murray, our food and our wine and I think it’s a great opportunity to have labels with our GI, with Riverland on it.”

Yianni wants the Riverland to be a name in Australian wine in the same way that we know the Barossa or Margaret River. He wants it to have an identity all of its own and one where people know about all the interesting things happening there.

Finding a way back home

Yianni was raised on the farm he now tends. His family migrated from Greece and began growing fruit in the Riverland alongside many other migrants.

The family grew a range of summer fruits like apricots and peaches, what Koutouzis described as “fruit salad”. They also observed the booming winegrape business in the Riverland and planted several vineyards of vines. They sold their Shiraz and Cabernet to

companies like Accolade and the vines they planted 40 years ago are still there.

The family wanted Yianni to pursue a higher education and after high school he did a double degree in law and commerce before moving to a career in commercial banking

“That wasn’t really for me, it wasn’t giving me the motivation to keep going,” he said.

“I couldn’t hack corporate life anymore and it turned out farming was my destiny. I’ve been running the farm since.

“I want to make that initial project that my parents [started after] immigrating here and try and grow it a bit better and bigger and create some awareness about our wine industry here.

Soon after coming home and working the farm, the wine bug bit. Yianni started his own label, Sixty Eight Roses, and launched his first release in 2020.

In starting his label, he joined a class of winemakers in the region who are experimenting with alternative styles that respond better to the hot summers experienced in the Riverland.

He said that he thought diversifying the types of wines coming from the region would help to move the region forward and help to create more of an identity of its own.

“I find that the wine industry is evolving. We have had some issues, obviously here in the Riverland. With grapes and prices in a way we’ve been perceived as a more of a bulk wine sort of region,” he said.

“I want to be a part of that evolution where that perception is going to change and where we are already seeing results with great quality wines coming through.

“We’re seeing that [alternative varieties] are becoming a lot more popular in the Riverland. Quality pruning and vine management is really important to get

I’m just so passionate about the region, passionate about what we have here; our River Murray, our food and our wine and I think it’s a great opportunity to have labels with our GI with Riverland on it.

Yianni Koutouzis

Sixty Eight Roses Syrah

My vision is futuristic, digital. My vision for wine is about trends, about fashion, about now, about what people want and about what’s going to excite people.

Yianni Koutouzis

that quality also.

“I think it’s really important as a collaborative group, small winemakers, to work collaboratively together to try and market our region by doing wine events by attending cities like Melbourne and Sydney and attending good food and wine shows.”

The work he is doing with other small winemakers is part of an effort to communicate that the Riverland is capable of producing high quality grapes.

Part of the challenge for the region as well, and the challenge for Yianni, is communicating that there is a winemaking culture in the Riverland.

“Even in Adelaide, being a local city, at cellar door fest, people said ‘do you guys actually make wine in the Riverland? Really? Do you grow grapes?’ And I would say, ‘Hello! Like massive, biggest crush in the southern hemisphere,” he explained.

“[Other SA wine regions] have got a huge marketing advantage and we don’t have that exposure yet.

“My drive and passion is so strong, I really want [the region] to excel and want

it to be a bit more competitive in the market rather than being that tall poppy syndrome. I want people to know that we do more than just grow grapes.”

Taking an alternative path

Sixty Eight Roses was met with high praise as soon as it launched. The inaugural 2019 Syrah received several gold awards and his other varietal wines have gotten similarly warm receptions.

Yianni wants to take his wines a step further, experimenting with varieties that will work better in the region.

“I am looking at a Montepulciano, of course,” he said.

“Other ones have a Falanghina; Pecorino will be next year and Fiano, so I’ve got a vineyard that’s about 18 acres.

“Now we’re slowly branching out to a

Riverland Uprising

Tempranillo and then Vermentino.

“My vision is futuristic, digital. My vision for wine is about trends, about fashion, about now, about what people want and about what’s going to excite people.

“I want to be a part of that evolution.”

Yianni was also keen to work with a winemaker who is bold enough to experiment and try some new styles.

“I’d love to see more techniques. I’m on the search to find a winemaker or somebody else that wants to come to me and is willing to experiment,” he said.

“I’m travelling to Europe next year, to go and experience that and see what they’re doing in Italy and Paris and Portugal. I think that’s super important.

“What should we be blending? What is the process of winemaking to make a different alternative?”

Yianni sees the future of the Riverland as a region all unto its own.

He doesn’t want it to walk away from its grapegrowing roots but he thinks it needs to embrace a new future, on where people express what the region brings to the canon of Australian wine.

Koutouzis and vineyard chicken chaser Truman

ask

Sustainability

the Winery nutrient management in a DAP-limited world

Food and agricultural sectors across the globe are currently experiencing reduced availability and/or increased cost of nitrogen-based fertilisers and additives, including urea and diammonium phosphate (DAP). The previous ‘Ask the AWRI’ column addressed the implications of urea limitations in the vineyard. In this column, AWRI

What happens to grapevines if nitrogen is limited?

Grapevines with insufficient nitrogen can show symptoms of nitrogen deficiency including reduced vigour, smaller leaves and shoots, reduced canopy density (and thus reduced photosynthetic area), delayed fruit ripening and reduction in yield. Delayed ripening affects grape berry sugar accumulation and the

development of flavour compounds and their precursors. Nitrogen concentration in grape berries is also low when vines lack nitrogen.

How does this affect fruit and juice composition?

Grape nitrogen occurs in several forms: ammonium, amino acids, peptides and proteins. Fermentation yeast can only utilise ammonium and free amino acid

nitrogen (FAN), collectively measured as yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN). In healthy, freshly processed fruit, approximately one-third of the YAN will be ammonium and two-thirds will be from amino acids.

Optimal fermentation and wine quality are best supported by robust and balanced grape-derived nitrogen, with winery additions of DAP or other

Senior Oenologist, Geoff Cowey, and Research Manager – Biosciences, Dr Simon Schmidt, consider options for optimising nitrogen in the winery if DAP availability remains limited.

nutrients ideally only used to finetune what is naturally present. Bell and Henschke (2005) reported a minimum recommended YAN level of >140 mg/L for grapes, musts and juices; however, actual demand depends on yeast strain and fermentation conditions. Scrimgeour et al . (2019) reported a median YAN value of 187 mg/L in Australian grape and juice samples from 2006-2019 (n=1,390). This means that around 50% of juices are likely to require nitrogen supplementation in the winery, with some needing more than just finetuning.

Up to 25% of grape nitrogen is present in the skin, with up to 65% present in the grape pulp, so for white winemaking, pressing off skins and removing grape solids will further reduce the available nitrogen in the juice. For red winemaking, in contrast, analysing only the juice may underestimate the available YAN. When fruit is compromised through heatwaves or disease pressures, or there are delays between harvest and the start of fermentation, the growth of native microorganisms can further reduce juice nitrogen concentrations.

What happens to a ferment if nitrogen is limited?

Low nitrogen concentration in juice (YAN <140 mg/L) can slow yeast reproduction and reduce the buildup of yeast cell biomass. Poor biomass formation decreases fermentation rates and yeast resilience in increasingly hostile conditions, resulting in sluggish or stuck fermentations. Low nitrogen also can increase the risk of hydrogen sulfide (‘rotten egg’) aromas developing and limit the formation of positive fermentation-derived flavours.

Should I use DAP, complex nutrients or both to adjust a low YAN?

If must nitrogen levels are low, inorganic nitrogen (DAP) and/or organic nitrogen (termed ‘complex nutrients’) can be used to supplement YAN. Complex nutrients are usually made up of dead yeast and parts derived from them, including components of cell walls (hulls), cell membranes, cell insides (yeast extract) or specific yeast fractions (mannoproteins). The nutritional components of complex

nutrients usually include varying combinations of DAP, amino acids, peptides, vitamins, minerals and sterols/lipids. Some products may be supplemented with additional vitamins and some rehydration-specific nutrients may contain no ammonium salts. All these variations can make for difficult decisions when trying to amend low YAN.

From a fermentation performance perspective, DAP addition is a suitable treatment for correcting low initial YAN in juice. A 100 mg/L DAP addition yields a 20 mg/L YAN increase. It would be difficult to use complex nutrients whose nitrogen profile is comprised entirely of amino acids (i.e. contain no DAP) to make equivalent additions to juices with low YAN. At typically recommended dosage rates, the contribution of organic nutrients to YAN concentration is insufficient to make large adjustments. However, complex nutrient formulations are known to influence wine flavour development and can be used in combination with DAP, depending on the fermentation objective.

How can you make the most of your nitrogen in the winery?

The most important factor in making the most of nitrogen in the winery is to know the YAN of your juice or must. YAN analysis costs around $30 but is typically only performed regularly by mediumto-large sized wineries (Nordestgaard 2019). Other wineries typically make standard DAP additions to yeast cultures and musts, relying on (what has been historically) the relatively low cost of DAP. As not all vineyards are nitrogenpoor, measuring YAN in grapes, or juice in tank, will allow informed decisions on how to best use available DAP. In addition, yeasts can vary in their nitrogen demand. Understanding juice YAN status can help inform yeast strain choice and nitrogen management strategy.

YAN concentrations should also be considered in the context of sugar concentrations. Several studies have shown that complete fermentation of high-sugar musts requires higher nitrogen concentrations than musts

from less mature fruit. Therefore, the minimum nitrogen rule of thumb (~150 mg/L) should increase with increasing sugar concentration.

Additions should be timed for optimal effect. Grape-derived ammonium will typically deplete within 48 hours of inoculation. Ammonium depletion will coincide with the time when S. cerevisiae is most rapidly growing. This period is the ideal time for DAP additions (at 10-25% of fermentation duration). Yeast nitrogen demand is high because of the rapid growth; therefore, the impact from ammonium addition is greater than if made later in the fermentation. It is worth bearing in mind that if grapederived nitrogen concentrations are already high, then DAP additions at the very beginning of fermentation can lead to an overly rapid ferment rate. Small nitrogen additions later in fermentation can help stimulate fermentative activity (i.e. CO2 production) but will not help yeast to grow. At these later stages, amino acid-based nutrient additions may be more useful than DAP to help sustain robust and vigorous yeast populations. Complex nutrients can also help support stylistic wine attributes.

Planning for the vintage early, having a nutrient strategy for planned ferments, measuring YAN, supplementing ferments only when required, and ordering nutrients early are all steps that can help alleviate the current supply constraints.

References

Bell, S.J., Henschke, P.A. 2005. Implications of nitrogen nutrition for grapes, fermentation and wine. Aust. J. Grape Wine Res. 11: 242–295.

Nordestgaard, S. 2019. AWRI Vineyard and Winery Practices Survey. Available from: www.awri.com.au/survey .

Scrimgeour, N., Wilkes, E., Bartowsky, E. 2019. Making sense of yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN). Aust. N.Z. Grapegrower Winemaker (670): 47-50.

UncorkedSkin contact whites

Orange, amber and off-white

Skin contact white wines, or orange wines, are an instantly recognisable style to the eye. The cloudy colour makes the warm hues of the wines glow in the right light. The flavour, however, could not be more versatile or unique. Harrison Davies explores how this old style of winemaking has rediscovered the limelight over recent years.

Skin contact white wines might conjure up images of wine-bars in back alleys populated by wine drinkers looking to try something new and revolutionary.

In fact, fermenting white grapes on the skins is a technique steeped in tradition and finds its roots in traditional Mediterranean winemaking.

The style invites low intervention growing and winemaking and offers a way for winemakers to express the unique characteristics of the grapes they are working with. It is very similar to the winemaking process of red winegrapes.

This result is a much more textural wine with tannic elements, but not always. Some of them could be deeper in flavour, just not all the time.

In fact, the colour itself, the most noticeable aspect of the style, plays the least important role and is nothing more than a signifier of how the producer has created the wine.

While many winemakers are keen to throw their hats into the ring of skin contact whites, the practice in Australian winemaking is still relatively young.

Skin contact white wine stems from traditions in Italian and Georgian winemaking, where the skins were left on the grapes and placed in amphora to ferment when making table wine.

The style was put into the dustbin of history in the early 20th century, when Italian producers began to find a new niche within the premium wine market and what was once table wine drunk by workers became pure, clean, premium wines.

Italian winemaker Joško Gravner wanted to re-discover the older traditions in Italy and went on a research expedition that eventually led him through countries like Slovenia and Georgia, before putting what he learnt in the bottle and releasing his own skin contact whites in the early 2000s.

The introduction of the style to Australia can be traced back to Kevin McCarthy, winemaker at the T’Gallant winery on the Mornington Peninsula, who released the first example of the style in 2008 – a blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Moscato Giallo.

Since then, orange wines and skin contact whites have been of particular interest to

small, independent winemakers as they offer a unique and individualised way of exploring the flavours and textures of the grapes.

Macedon Ranges based winemaker Micah Hewitt, founder of the Defialy wine label, uses skin contact winemaking for several of his whites and explained what he likes about the style.

Uncorked

Skin contact whites are known by several names; some are known as orange wines, others as off-white. Some skin contact whites may even be indistinguishable from cleaner white wines.

Jayden Ong.

Photo: Young Gun of Wine

“The more options that are out there, the better. Adding a bit of skin contact, whether it’s a short amount or a long amount, just adds an extra dimension to the traditional winegrape varieties that we’re used to,” he said.

“We’re experimenting with different varieties. There’s a lot of the Italian varietals that are really suited to our climate.

“I like to work with [grapes] that are really suited to that skin contact; they’ve been making these wines for hundreds if not thousands of years.”

Cloudy memory

Skin contact whites entered their vogue moment as the natural wine scene took hold in the early 2010s. It was this scene that drew Adelaide Hills based Unico Zelo brand ambassador Noah Ward to the style while he and the team were at university.

“With the rise of the natural wine movement in Australia in the early 2010s, skin contact white wine was well and truly in the zeitgeist, but back then – at least domestically – it was relatively expensive to purchase the very few on the market; around the $50 mark as an entry point,” he said.

“Unico Zelo was started by university students, so to experience those styles was well and truly out of the student budget, so if we were going to make it, we’d have to make it affordable.

“We stumbled across this vineyard of Zibbibo in the Riverland that was dry grown and planted in the 1940s – as winemakers we were particularly excited by that, and aromatic varieties make fantastic examples of skin contact white wine, so we thought we’d give it a crack.

“This became the genesis of Esoterico, now well and truly our most popular wine, based on the fact that we intentionally made it very affordable, sitting on the shelf at AU$25.”

Unico Zelo now have two skin contact whites in their repertoire, the aforementioned Esoterico, a blend of Zibbibo, Moscato

Skin contact white wine was well and truly in the zeitgeist, but back then –at least domestically – it was relatively expensive to purchase the very few on the market; around the $50 mark as an entry point.

Noah Ward

Unico Zelo brand manager Noah Ward.

Photo: Riverland Uprising

White grapes on the skins. Photo: Micah Hewitt

Giallo and Gewürztraminer, and the Terra Cotta, a Greco varietal wine.

Ward said that both of them are treated very similarly to the reds in their range and that leaving them on the skins helps to express the terroir more than would be possible with a cleaner white.

“We treat them very similar to our red wines; de-stem them, crush them, pump over twice a day until we press them off,” he explained.

“We then age [the Esoterico] for 12 months to let the tannin settle and also partially age in barrel to add further complexity. It’s a more approachable style of skin contact wine, with plenty of peach, nectarine.

“Our other wine, Terra Cotta, we only leave on skins for two days, but since it is such a tannic grape it extracts extreme colour, tannin and more burnt citrus peel flavours.

“Flavour wise, the main addition when skin fermenting is tannin, which adds structural complexity and texture, which for some white wines is very pleasing, but can also be quite aggressive as a lot of white grape varieties have a lot of natural tannin – much like red grapes.

“The other thing it adds flavour wise, is more interaction with oxygen, but since the skins add antioxidants, it means that the wine can interact more with oxygen whilst being protected, so this adds more complexing flavours that we don’t often see in white wines.”

The two wines demonstrate the breadth of possibility lended by making wines with the style, as well as what makes them so hard to pin down.

Ward said the style was derivative of traditions that had been started in

Uncorked

“It’s separate from the more commonly known traditions of white wine of France and Italy, but the way we look at it, it’s not all that out of place in the wine world,” he said.

“Every wine producing country in the world has been making skin contact wine well and truly before the emergence in popularity of natural wine – we know them as red wines.

“[Skin contact whites] have a place in every wine industry and definitely in Australia. The market and consumers are growing more and more comfortable with the style, producers around the country are making interesting, stable and delicious examples at a wide range of price points.”

Finding their own footing

With more accessible prices and a wider consumer base of knowledge about them, orange wines and skin contact whites are slowly finding themselves on more bottle shop shelves and wine lists.

As consumers become more familiar with them, the industry has shone a greater spotlight on the style.

Awards like the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show have begun separating award classes to allow for skin contact whites to be judged in their own category, and events like the Yarra Valley’s Pulp Festival look to showcase the work of upcoming winemakers.

Wine Yarra Valley CEO Caroline Evans said the festival aims to bring together wine producers and consumers to explore emerging wine styles, outside of the traditionally-made Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Europe, but what was being experimented with in Australia was very innovative.

Skin contact whites over time

5800BC

Wines made in Georgia were crafted using qvevri, a vessel that facilitated the method of aging winegrapes on the skins

20th century

Italian wine moves away from table wine and toward a premium, French style. Skin contact whites are pushed aside for cleaner styles.

“Whilst the Yarra Valley is home to some

Early 2000s

Frustrated with the standard style of white winemaking, Josko Gravener researches and eventually releases white wine made with deliberate skin contact.

Photo: Micah Hewitt

of the most classic and iconic estates in the country, we recognise that the market is dynamic and that consumers are very interested in new and evolving wines with an authentic story behind them,” Evans said.

“Experimentation, and pushing the boundaries in winemaking, cultivates interest and complexity compared to traditionally-made and ‘technically correct’ wines.

“These alternative styles aren’t typical for the collector, but there is an increasing segment of the market that likes to experiment, who likes interesting, textural drinks with a funky story based on a ‘hands-off’ winemaking approach, rather than terroir.

“We’re finding these styles are becoming more popular and mainstream, particularly amongst Gen Z and Millennial consumers.”

Events like the Pulp Festival showcase not only the new styles of winemaking, but a changing consumer attitude towards wine.

Evans said that as society changes, the wine industry must also change to meet new demands, as consumers won’t always want what their parents and grandparents drank.

“There is a fine line between being rooted in tradition and being complacent, and we’re fortunate that the Yarra Valley is home to some of the most progressive, dynamic winemakers in the world,” she said

“an ever-evolving ‘new wave’ of winemaking talent looking to alternative approaches, with a particular focus on sustainable production through the use

Caroline Evans

of organic or biodynamic principles, new technologies and reducing carbon output in adapting to climate change.

“Aside from a moral and ethical responsibility to contribute to more sustainable practices in wine production, there is also a financial benefit in attracting new consumers.

“Gen Z and Millennials are often committed to sustainability and social change and are willing to support

companies that uphold their ideals and values.”

Skin contact whites may be the future of wine, and they might also not be. What they represent is change.

Whatever that change ends up being, using techniques like those used on skin contact whites is a way to demonstrate that a longstanding industry still has room for new ideas.

2008

Kevin McCarthy releases the first Australian ‘orange’ wine: T’Gallant ‘Claudius’, a blend of Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Moscato Giallo.

2010

Natural Selection Theory, a collaboration between Tom Shobbrook, Anton von Klopper, James Erskine and the late Sam Hughes forms. They are credited as pioneering natural winemaking in Australia.

Experimentation and pushing the boundaries in winemaking cultivates interest and complexity compared to traditionally-made and ‘technically correct’ wines.

Tim Perrin from Oakridge. Photo: Redfish Bluefish Photography

Wine Analytical Services & Equipment

Balancing wine analytical service and tech options

As alternatives to conventional procedures become available, winemaker and writer Paul Le Lacheur examines the unique advantages of both on-site equipment and off-site analytical services.

Over time, the debate about whether to conduct analytical tests in your own on-site laboratory or to have contractors/contract winemakers report on chemical analysis has morphed to enter a new era. Handheld analysers are now capable of performing almost the total range of chemical analysis required and generating a report in under one precious minute of the winemaker’s valuable time.

One such product is called “Sentia”. Distributed by Universal Biosensors in Europe and by Grapeworks in Australia, this handheld device measures most parameters required for post-ferment wine. These include (but are not limited to) free SO2, malic acid, glucose, fructose

and alcohol. The device uses Wi-Fi connectivity to upload data to a PC, tablet or phone.

Sentia features a very convenient and accurate ‘strip eject’ mechanism, allowing an accurate readout almost instantaneously. It has an operating temperature range of between 10-30°C and utilises a 7cm colour touchscreen. Other desirable characteristics include a long battery life and the ability to perform (and store) up to 1,000 test results.

Sentia is free of the need to manually calibrate and is also free of reagents. Importantly, the devices have a very wide measuring range, e.g. SO2 at 3-50 mg/L; malic acid at 0.05-5.0 g/L and glucose at

0.1-10 g/L.

Only one drop of wine onto the test strips is enough to action a statistically reliable chemical report. Those strips (25) are included in a vial which comes with the device. Storage temperatures are in the range from 2-8°C.

Intending users of handheld analysers can be assured that verifiable performance management has been achieved through case studies in both the USA and here in Australia in conjunction with wineries. This objective measurement of accuracy has come in the form of strict statistical comparison between Sentia test results and those from the so-called ‘reference method’. Critically, large banks of data from the reference method results are

In fact, measurement of around 20 different parameters makes it almost a ‘virtual chemistry lab’.

The power of a lab in the palm of your hand.

As world leaders in biosensor technology, our reputation is built on precision.

That’s why you can trust the Sentia™ hand-held wine analyzer to reliably measure:

• free SO2

• malic acid in your wine.

Test results in minutes, wherever and whenever you need them. More tests in development.

THE POWER OF A LAB IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND.

gained from manual laboratory processes or benchtop chemical analysers. The results are in! The initial claims by the distributors (i.e. high statistical accuracy) have been proven valid. Costs for the hand- held analysers lie in the range of approximately $1, 950 to $2,130.

A ‘virtual chemical lab’

Yet another alternative to outsourcing chemical analysis to an off-site laboratory is marketed by Kauri Australia under the platform called Smart Analysis. This is also a compact handheld system featuring a lightweight device. Again, it is extremely portable, robust and has a long (seven hour) battery life. Both WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity make it an attractive option for multi users sharing reports and information in real time. A wide range of chemical measurements can be made using the Smart Analysis platform. In fact, measurement of around 20 different parameters makes it almost a ‘virtual chemistry lab’. Principal among these measurements are: d-glucose, d-fructose, L-malic acid, SO2, pH, total acidity, anthocyanins, primary amino acids (PAN, FAN), alpha amino nitrogen (inorganic nitrogen), alcohol, colour and polyphenols.

No manual calibration nor any maintenance is required due to remote diagnostic monitoring. Similarly, there is no need for IT knowledge or chemistry knowledge – so it ideally suits all levels of competence or experience by staff in these areas. The system features innovative cloud storage and data management features so as to facilitate the creation and sharing of reports. Quick and easy.

Another plus is that the system is readily expandable to become the one device used for all future measurements as reporting needs grow. Although more expensive than Sentia at around $4,350 per unit, the Smart Analysis platform and device has the advantage of easy coupling with wine reagent test kits (sold for around $150). These kits are packed in disposable cuvettes with standard optical paths which are sold in packs of 20. Kauri have been suppliers to the Wine Industry in Australia and New Zealand since 1994, therefore sales support is assured due to the proximity and availability of agents.

Off-site service benefits

Let’s look at balancing the argument! Should we use the off-site wine analytical services? The answer may come down to a trade-off between loss of control versus access to the larger-sized company benefits of chemical breadth (in analytical terms). For example, Affinity Labs (powered by the AWRI), are a NATA accredited laboratory, having gained their accreditation at an advanced level (ISO 17025). Affinity offers the advantages of a commercial sized laboratory in turnaround times. And size does matter. Affinity processes more than 100,000 analyses per year and has done so since 1984, offering large scale advantages.

Popular tests conducted by them include for sugars, acids, alcohols, preservatives, antioxidants, metals and anions, stability and fining trials, oxidation indicators, dissolved oxygen and CO₂. This breadth may not be mirrored by the so-called ‘handhelds’. In addition, a laboratory

such as Affinity can provide services such as: export certification, microbiological safety-net analyses, carbon neutral planning, carbon accounting… the list goes on.

The Australian Wine Research Institute has a non-research (commercial) arm of its organisational structure called the Commercial Services laboratory. It’s doing great business! The year 2020-21 saw an increase in analyses of 28,710 jobs, or 16%, with 212 new customers.

In particular, demand for detection of smoke glycosides using mid -infrared spectroscopy to screen pre-harvest intake grape samples was high. The laboratory uses this method to reduce turnaround times to minutes, rather than days!

In addition, the breadth of sensory services offered to our industry has greatly expanded. Proof-of-performance studies on a number of new analytical instruments have been popular in guaranteeing the robust and accurate nature of analytical instruments being offered to industry operators.

Key advantages of outsourcing these analyses are: Independent chemical validation, export clearance surety and third party endorsement. These may well fall under the heading of “not only doing the right thing, but also being seen to do the right thing”.

Quality Filtration for High Yields and Excellent Product

We provide membrane filtration for wine and lees to maximize product yield and clarity while maintaining color, taste, and aroma for a variety of wines.

L ear n m o re at k o c h se p arat ion. c o m jared baile y @ k e s. global 0401 867 79 7

Selected analytical services suppliers in Australia and New Zealand

Affinity Labs

Telephone: (08) 8313 6600 Website: www.affinitylabs.com.au

Analytical Reference Laboratory

Telephone: (08) 6253 4444 Website: www.arlgroup.com.au

APAL Agricultural Laboratory

Telephone: (08) 8332 0199 Website: www.apal.com.au

AsureQuality

Telephone: +64 9 573 8000 Website: www.asurequality.com

Fruitfed Supplies

Telephone: +64 3 578 3019 Website: www.pggwrightson.co.nz

GHD

Telephone: (08) 8111 6600

Hill Laboratories Telephone: Freecall: 0508 445 5522 (NZ only) Website: www.hill-laboratories.com

Linnaeus

Telephone: Freecall: 0800 254 662 (NZ only) Website: www.linnaeus.co.nz

McLaren Vintners

Telephone: (08) 8383 2000 Website: www.mclarenvintners.com.au

Metrohm Australia & New Zealand

Telephone: 1300 720 485 Website: www.metrohm.com.au

New Zealand Wineries

Telephone: +64 3 578 5070 Website: www.nzwineries.co.nz

Pacific Rim Oenology Services

Telephone: +64 3 577 9000 Website: www.pros.co.nz

Phosyn Analytical Telephone: (07) 5568 8700 Website: www.phosynanalytical.com.au

Rockcliffe

Telephone: (08) 9848 2622 Website: www.rockcliffe.com.au

SA Safety Train

Telephone: 0437 165 437 Website: www.safetytrain.com.au

Sanector Telephone: (08) 8564 4700 Website: www.sanector.com.au

Torresan Estate Contract Bottling, Packaging & Warehousing

Telephone: (08) 8323 9500 Website: www.torresan.com.au

Vinpac International Telephone: (08) 8561 0600 Website: www.vinpac.com.au

Winechek

Telephone: (08) 8562 1044 Website: www.winechek.com

phone +61 08 8369 9500

The perfect bubble Foam formation in sparkling wine

By Francois Botton¹, Alana Seabrook², Dr Clara Cilindre³, Prof Gérard LigerBelair³ and Dr Virginie Moine⁴

Introduction

Perfect foam and bubble formation in sparkling wine has been a topic of interest in Champagne and many other regions around the world for many years. Back in the early ‘90s the team of Prof. Maujean from Reims University developed the first device able to size and compare the quality of the foam from different wines (Mosalux, Brissonet and Maujean, 1991). In Bordeaux at the same period Prof. Dubourdieu and his team were focusing on the science of ageing on lees (Chatonnet and Dubourdieu,1992; Lavigne and Dubourdieu, 1994; Lavigne and Dubourdieu, 1996; Moine-Ledoux and Dubourdieu, 1996; Lavigne and

Dubourdieu, 1999; Humbert and Moine, 2003). Nowadays, this work and knowledge, in conjunction with a key collaboration with Prof. Liger Belair and Dr Clara Cilindre whereby the focus is on the physics of the bubble, has led to a much greater understanding of how we can influence effervescence and foam in sparkling wine. Techniques include traditional, charmat, carbonation, transfer method and aging on lees for

in wine, the “pinnacle” for tasters is to observe fine, elegant, and persistent bubbles in the glass regularly supplying a generous and stable collar to form a harmonious foam. Foam formation in this article refers to the size of the bubble, the amount of bubbles, the height and persistence of the mousse and ‘collerette’ (collerette refers to the ring of bubbles formed in a flute which remains after the wine is poured).

In Champagne, there is a perception that smaller bubbles are preferred and are able to last overtime whilst larger bubbles may be perceived as ‘flabby’ and less than ideal (Union des Maisons de

Champagne, 2021). Cilindre et al., (2021) observed fermentation temperature of the prise de mousse to bubble size and found that lower temperatures presented smaller bubbles (with P < 0.05) in the foam collar throughout the wine tasting, however there are many other factors which can contribute to bubble size.

Theoretically one can estimate that a single bottle of sparkling wine using traditional method with 24 g/l of sugar added for the secondary fermentation will contain nearly 12g/l of carbon dioxide. When opening the bottle and serving in the glass, approximately 80% of the initial carbon dioxide concentration is released via evaporation. Only 20 per cent can form bubbles (Liger-Belair, G., 2014). This leaves around one million bubbles involved in the formation of mousse and collerette in a 100ml glass of sparkling.

Nucleation sites in the glass are critical to the birth and formation of bubbles. Among them we can find microfibers or roughness and imperfection present on the surface of the glass which are able to act as nucleation sites (Liger-Belair et al. 2008). It is therefore very difficult in real conditions to compare side by side two glass and judge the quality of the effervescence. In our study, we are using laser punch glassed designed by the glass maker to ease the nucleation of bubbles that we combine with a strict cleaning procedure to avoid random nucleation sites: with the same number of nucleation sites in each glass, it is possible to compare the aesthetic of effervescence in two different samples. Also, a precise monitoring of CO₂ concentration in each sample we want to compare is crucial. Indeed, the abundance of bubbles and the kinetic of bubble formation is directly linked to this parameter.

There are many aspects to the winemaking process which can impact foam formation in sparkling wines. Sparkling wines contain greater or lesser quantities of surfactant macromolecules from grapes and yeasts (Figure 1). They play a fundamental role in the lifespan and quality of the bubbles in a glass. From its birth, the bubble is charged with CO₂, its growth is directly linked to the concentration of dissolved CO₂ in the wine. Then it detaches from its nucleation site and rises to the surface. During its journey, it captures the surfactant molecules in the wine, including mannoproteins. When the bubbles reach the wine’s surface, the surfactant macromolecules play their protective role by prolonging their lifespan and thus promoting the formation of the collar.

Factors affecting foam formation

Protein stabilisation and use of bentonite

Many factors effect foam formation in sparkling wines but it is often the use of bentonite which is the most critical. Foam active compounds which create tension around the bubble are linked to the protein content and extended aging on lees. The heat unstable proteins present in white wines can create a haze in wines. In standard white wine production these are often removed via t he use of negatively charged bentonite. Bentonite is unselective and will remove both heat unstable and heat stable proteins and as a consequence has a direct negative impact on foam formation (Marchal et al., 2002; Maujean et al., 1990).

Figure 2. Diameter of bubbles in the collerette, at one and 10 minutes after the end of pouring (12 months) with the control (aged on lees); EL means an addition of yeast extract; MP1 and MP2 are distinct mannoprotein fractions which were found to directly impact foam height, persistence of collerette and bubble diameter.

Other factors

Grape maturity can have a direct impact on foam formation. Liu et al. (2018) found the increasing level of maturity indicated higher levels of glycoproteins which corresponded to a higher mousse height. Whilst picking early may avoid the incidence of Botrytis cinerea, it was found to have lower levels of glycoproteins directly correlated with foam height (Marchal et al., 2001, 2006, 2017; and Cilindre et al., 2007, 2008). Factors including the press fraction and the amount of carbon used to decolourise have all been found to impact the mousse height. Lipids from the waxy layer of the grape have anti-foaming properties and the use of carbon removes foam active proteins (Marchal et al., 2002; Maujean et al.,1990).

The type of filtration used can also impact the foam height by removing or retaining colloids that can prevent foam formation (Robillard et al. 1993; Kemp et al. 2005). Ethanol content is also a key factor in foam formation, lower alcohol levels have a positive impact on the bubble tension and foam height (Maujean et al., 1990). Prosecco wines have lower ethanol levels around 11% v/v and often have excellent mousse properties; whereas Champagne has average value of 12.5% v/v alcohol (Dussaud et al., 1994) and optimise their mousse formation and duration thanks to their extended aging on lees.

Role of mannoproteins in bubble aesthetics

The research program on the aesthetics of effervescence, launched by BIOLAFFORT® in 2014 in collaboration with Prof. Gérard Liger Belair’s team at the University of Reims Champagne Ardennes, allowed us to study the effect of the different mannoprotein fractions of yeast, then to demonstrate their impact on the quality and stability of the wine foam. Trials presented here were carried out on a rosé crémant from Bordeaux after 12 months of aging on lees. The base wine was heat stabilized with 80g/ hl of bentonite MICROCOL®Alpha and a different selection of mannoporoteins were added at tirage with yeast extract (EL), mannoprotein fraction 1 (MP1), mannoprotein fraction 2 (MP2) and a combination of MP1 and MP2. The different fractions of mannoproteins have very different molecular weights and properties.

The foam height and persistence of the bubbles was improved on all treatments (Figure 2 and 3). After both one minute and 10 minutes the collar thickness was lower for the control than any of the other treatments (Figure 4a). The diameter

of the bubble was greatly impacted by the mannoprotein in question and a combination of both led to the best combination of optimal bubble diameter (approximately 0.5mm) and foam height (Figure 4a and 4b). MANNOSPARK® is a specific formulation resulting from this study, for improvement in the size of the bubbles, and the thickness and stability of the collar, in order to obtain a harmonious and persistent foam in sparkling wines. This can be added to all sparkling wines including those made with charmat, transfer, carbonation at any stage of the process to improve the size of the bubble, persistence of the collerette and height of the mousse without impacting the ability of the wine to go through a filter.

The data from this article was sourced from work conducted by the Molecular and Atmospheric Spectrometry Group (GSMA), a joint research unit between CNRS and the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne (URCA). Bubble Physics Laboratory, Prof. Gérard LigerBelair published on OEno-IVAS 2019, Bordeaux.

Figure 4b. Foamability and foam stability of degassed wines (12 months)

Figure 4a. Evolution of the collerette thickness for each modality (12 months) during the first 10 minutes following pouring.

Figure 3. Diameter of the bubbles in the collerette , at one and 10 minutes after the end of pouring (12 months)

References

Brissonnet F, Maujean A. Identification of some foam-active compounds in champagne base wines. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture. 1991 Jan 1;42(2):97-102.

Cilindre C, Henrion C, Coquard L, Poty B, Barbier JE, Robillard B, Liger-Belair G. Does the Temperature of the prise de mousse Affect the Effervescence and the Foam of Sparkling Wines? Molecules. 2021 Jan;26(15):4434

Liger-Belair G, Cilindre C. Recent Progress in the Analytical Chemistry of Champagne and Sparkling Wines. Annual Review of Analytical Chemistry. 2021 May 20;14.

Liger-Belair G. How many bubbles in your glass of bubbly? The Journal of Physical Chemistry B. 2014 Mar 20;118(11):3156-63. Chatonnet and Dubourdieu,1992. Mitigation of wood impact on smell and taste [Atténuation de l’impact olfactif et gustatif du bois]

Lavigne and Dubourdieu, 1994. Protection of color against oxidative phenomena [Protection de la couleur contre les phénomènes oxydatifs]

Lavigne and Dubourdieu, 1996. Light mercaptans fixation by lees [Fixation par les lies des mercaptans légers]

Moine-Ledoux and Dubourdieu, 1996. Improvement of protein and tartaric stability [Amélioration de la stabilité protéique et tartrique]

Lavigne and Dubourdieu, 1999. Aging potential [Aptitude au vieillissement]

Humbert and Moine, 2003. Taste improvement [Amélioration gustative]

Marchal A, Marullo P, Moine V, Dubourdieu D. Influence of yeast macromolecules on sweetness in dry wines: role of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae protein Hsp12. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2011 Mar 9;59(5):2004-10.

Pin-He Liu, Céline Vrigneau, Thomas Salmon, Duc An Hoang, Jean Claude Boulet, et al.. Influence of Grape Berry Maturity on Juice and Base Wine Composition and Foaming Properties of Sparkling Wines from the Champagne Region. Molecules, MDPI, 2018, 23 (6), 21 p. ff10.3390/molecules23061372ff. ffhal01918063f

Vanrell, G.; Canals, R.; Esteruelas, M.; Fort, F.; Canals, J.M.; Zamora, F. Influence of the use of bentonite as a riddling agent on foam quality and protein fraction of sparkling wines (Cava). Food Chem. 2007, 104, 148– 155

Robillard, B.; Delpuech, E.; Viaux, L.; Malvy, J.; Vignes-Adler, M.; Duteurtre, B. Improvements for sparkling base wine foam measurements and effect of wine filtration on foam behaviour. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 1993, 44 (4), 387−393

Kemp B, Alexandre H, Robillard B, Marchal R. Effect of production phase on bottle-fermented sparkling wine quality. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2015 Jan 14;63(1):1938.

Union des Maisons de Champagne. 2021. https://maisonschampagne.com/en/appellation/stages-inwinemaking/fromstill-wine-to-spar

Choosing the right winery pump

The pros and cons of pumping options for winemakers

Paul Le Lacheur provides an overview of the various types of pumps available for winery options. He outlines the benefits and potential downsides of each, while offering his thoughts on what may work best under different operating conditions.

When considering which pump type best fits your winery needs, an obvious, but nonetheless key, question arises: are you pumping water, wine or both? In most pumping operations, there are clearly different performance parameters, depending on the pumping or transferring task at hand. My search for answers led me to Inoxpa Australia and a site called Star Pump Alliance. Both are eminently suitable in finding the best pump type or even just to inform your existing/ historical choice of pump(s).

This pump type is excellent for wine transfer but it does come with limitations.

Under the sub heading “Fluid Transfer Technology,” the potentially fraught issue of the viscosity of liquids being pumped is dealt with in detail (i.e. those with a high volume of particles in suspension may need more attention, particularly to solids levels). In any view of the data surrounding pump technology, the same pump criteria need to be discussed.

These parameters form a strong argument for certain pump types, while clearly dismissing others as unsuitable. They are:

• Minimising shearing and agitation in transfer;

• Decreasing exposure to oxygen;

• Increasing tolerance to solids and sediment;

• Self-priming;

• Portability;

• Ease of operation; and

• Cost effectiveness.

Centrifugal pumps work by spinning an impeller within a volute housing. This volute casing is primarily designed to guide the flow out of the impeller in order to convert the fluid flow’s kinetic energy into static pressure. It serves to collect fluid discharged from the impeller, routing it to the discharge nozzle. This type of pump moves wine from the lower pressure area at the impeller’s centre to the relatively higher-pressure zones found at the edge. Centrifugal pumps have an advantage –they don‘t generate high discharge pressures so the risk of rupturing containers or hoses is minimised. The downside is they’re rough on the liquid being pumped and are therefore unsuitable for finished wine.

Winemaker and writer

Moineau (mono pumps) work by turning a helical rotor within a helixshaped elastomeric stator. Positives for this pump type include: positive displacement, high solids tolerance, variable flow rates, ease of cleaning, good portability and suitability for larger volumes. Negatives which stand out are mainly relate to the expense at purchase. This cost should be balanced against mono pumps’ suitability for moving very high volumes (hundreds of thousands of litres at a time, for example).

Peristaltic pumps have a number of factors in their favour. Principal among them is they can tolerate being run dry. This allows cellar staff to multi task without risk of ‘burning out’ a pump. They are also able to run comfortably with variable flow rates, are easy to maintain and can tolerate quite high solids levels. However, a significant drawback in design is that they are not easily portable due to their rather awkward physical dimensions and larger size when compared with other pump styles.

Flexible Impeller pumps are a good option if your purpose is to create high pressures when transferring. Against this, a big disadvantage is the prospect of Impeller wear. Particles ‘wearing off’ the impeller have the potential to end up in your wine! Clearly, though flexible, impeller pumps may be being

a good option for lees work and pumpovers; they are certainly not suitable for finished wine. Again, size and portability are factors allowing good adaption to sites featuring high volumes and long transfer distances.

Diaphragm pumps work by contracting a rubber diaphragm to pull fluid into

Latest in biological protection

Utilising live micro-organisms for the protection of winegrapes, juices and musts against microbial or oxidative spoilage is an increasingly accepted practise across the winemaking world. In order to make sound, tasty and fault-free wines, such biological solutions offer less reliance on the traditional combination of sulfite and tartaric acid additions.

Launched in 2021 as the first ever oenological bacteria specifically for biological protection, Viniflora® NoVA™ Protect is a natural isolate of Lactiplantibacillus plantarum that exhibits inhibition against spoilage organisms. It is active against bacteria such as acetic acid bacteria or the rogue Oenococcus oeni that leads to unwanted MLF during primary fermentation. Volatile acidity development is further controlled by preventing the outgrowth of Hanseniaspora uvarum.

Field trials with NoVA Protect were conducted in the Grampians region in both 2021 and 2022. Applying the same protocols across both years, and running treatments in duplicate, the 2021wines

were made from Cabernet Sauvignon, while Shiraz was used in 2022. Used in combination with a moderate level of total SO2 (<25mg/L), the wines produced with NoVA™ Protect exhibited greater fruit weight and had better overall balance than those relying on just simply sulfites and acid addition (data not shown). Volatile acidity development was kept under control and, despite a higher must pH, the VA development was slower than using tartaric acid, as shown in the graph.

The culture itself is very user- friendly and cost effective, with a similar costin-use to basic Saccharomyces yeast. Intended for direct-inoculation without rehydration, it is in a convenient freezedried format. Stable for some days at ambient conditions, it can be shipped to remote vineyards for inoculation at picking in order to give protection during transportation of grapes. Alternatively, it can also be inoculated in the winery, at crushing or filling.

Viniflora NoVA Protect has been demonstrated to be an effective tool in helping to deliver sound wines, actively reducing spoilage, unwanted MLF and excess VA. While it can be used in conjunction with moderate amounts of SO2 or tartaric acid, it enables the opportunity to rely less on these chemicals.

Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay

Kumeu River, based just northwest of Auckland, is regarded as one of New Zealand’s, if not the world’s, best Chardonnay producers. Sitting at the apex of Kumeu River’s single vineyard Chardonnay offerings is Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, closely followed by the Hunting Hill Chardonnay. Sonya Logan pressed Kumeu River’s winemaker and New Zealand’s first Master of Wine Michael Brajkovich to find out more about this wine whose distinctive almost Riesling-like characters inspired its release.

Briefly tell us the Kumeu River story: Kumeu River Wines was established in 1944 when Mick and Katé Brajkovich and their son Maté first came to the small country settlement of Kumeu, about 20 kilometres northwest of Auckland City. The family had migrated from Dalmatia in 1938 and had been working in the far northern part of New Zealand digging kauri gum. After moving to Henderson, in West Auckland, in the early 1940s, they worked on vineyards and orchards in the

area and saved enough money to buy a property with a small existing vineyard at Kumeu.

Mick Brajkovich died in 1949, but Maté and Katé continued to tend the vines, make the wine and build the reputation of the fledgling wine company that became known as ‘San Marino Vineyards’.

In 1958 Maté married Melba Sutich

from Dargaville, whose antecedents also came from the Dalmatian coast and who gave up a school-teaching career to become Maté’s working partner. Their four children — Michael, Marijana, Milan and Paul — were born during the 1960s. From a very early age they all became involved in the family business, helping their parents with odd-jobs in the vineyard and the winery, and assisting

Kumeu River’s longstanding cellar master Nigel Tibbits with winemaker Michael Brajkovich.

A view across Kumeu River’s Hunting Hill vineyard near Auckland.

Behind the Top Drops

in the winery cellar door. Following the move towards high quality table wines in the 1980s made from varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot from newly developed vineyards in Kumeu, the ‘San Marino Vineyards’ became ‘Kumeu River Wines’ in 1986 to reflect this change.

Melba remains a much-loved fixture at the winery while I look after wine production, my brother Milan is in charge of the vineyards and engineering, my sister Marijana takes care of the finances and marketing, and my other brother Paul is responsible for sales and exports.

Even though a long way north compared to other New Zealand wine regions, Kumeu is still very much a cool viticultural region because of the proximity of the oceans. The Tasman Sea is only 13km away, and it’s 21km to the Pacific Ocean. These large bodies of water moderate the climate so we rarely reach 30°C each summer — for a day or two only. Rainfall is significant at about 1200mm, and the cloud cover

consistent to keep temperatures low and acidity high. The soils are predominantly clay over sandstone. Their water-holding capacity, paired with the regular rainfall, means that no irrigation is necessary.

What inspired the creation of the Hunting Hill Chardonnay?

Initially this vineyard was a source for our Kumeu River Chardonnay, which started to show very successfully from 1987 onwards. The onset of a severe infection of leafroll virus caused us to replant in 2001 with the UCD15 clone grafted on low-vigour rootstock. Since then, this vineyard has been free of virus. Immediately after replanting the early vintages in 2003, 2004 and 2005 showed that the fruit quality was outstanding. The wine was showing some real class, with very vibrant lemon/lime notes and white flowers on the nose, generous texture on the palate, followed by bracing acidity and mineral elements on the finish. It was almost like Riesling! This was the reason we decided to separate Hunting Hill out as a single vineyard release from the 2006

vintage, released in mid-2007, and it has justified that decision every vintage since.

Tell us about the Hunting Hill vineyard?

The name derives from the frequent shooting that our father Maté used to do on the property, mainly pheasants and ducks, but also rabbits. The vineyard was first developed in the early 1980s and planted to Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. After some early success, the Cabernet Franc succumbed to severe leafroll virus, as did the Chardonnay. We decided early on that Sauvignon Blanc was a weed and we would be much better off with Chardonnay, which led to the 2001 replant. At the same time we planted Pinot Noir on one side of the Hunting Hill vineyard, which was only just pulled out in 2022 to make way for more Chardonnay.

The current size of the vineyard is 3.4 hectares. It is planted at 3.4m x 1.2m spacing using the Lyre trellis design, inspired by the canopy management research of Dr Richard Smart and Dr Alain Carbonneau.

Each vine row has two curtains or canopies of foliage, angled away from each other at about 8° from vertical. The separation at the top of the two canopies is 1.4m.

Soil management is by way of a permanent grass sward (sod culture), which helps to reduce vine vigour induced by the relatively high rainfall.

The vineyard is managed by my brother Milan, working closely with Mark Wuthrich.

Do the same vines in the vineyard usually provide the fruit for the Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay or can that change from year to year based on the vintage?

The Hunting Hill vineyard is only used for the Hunting Hill Chardonnay wine, and we have produced this wine every vintage since 2006.

How are those vines managed?

The vines are now more than 20 years old. Being virus-free means that the grapes ripen early each year, and Hunting Hill is always the first Chardonnay vineyard to be picked. Cane pruning is used exclusively. The shoots are positioned by hand, and shoot trimming is practised using a trimming machine that can reach into the trellis and cut all three sides of

each of the two canopies. Mechanical leaf plucking is carried out just before flowering, followed by a more precise hand finish. Leaf removal is not complete or drastic, just enough to allow the clusters to see the sky and get the right balance of diffuse light, without excessive exposure to direct sunlight. Harvesting is exclusively by hand, with careful triage in the vineyard so that the 450kg bins of grapes that arrive at the winery are in beautiful condition.

What is the average yield from the vines that go into the Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay?

6-8 tonnes/ha

Describe the winemaking process that brings the wine to fruition?

Hand-harvested grapes are wholebunch pressed using 3 x 40hL pneumatic Willmes presses. The juice is settled at 12°C overnight using one settling tank

per press-load, and then racked into a holding tank. Solids account for only 0.51% of the juice volume.

The barrels are filled from the holding tank, which is frequently agitated by hand to achieve a fairly even distribution of the remaining juice solids.

We use Francois Frères very-tight grain Burgundy barrels, with a mixture of heavy and medium+ toasting levels, and about 25% new oak. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation proceeds after a few days of lag phase, using native yeast that have come in on the grapes. When fermentation starts the yeasts are given a couple of doses of pure oxygen to assist in yeast multiplication and the improvement of cell wall integrity.

Fermentation temperatures peak at 23-24°C. After achieving dryness, which can take a few weeks to a couple of months, malolactic fermentation is encouraged. We do some inoculation of

The Hunting Hill vineyard, trained to a Lyre trellis system, is managed by Milan Brajkovich and Mark Wuthrich

selected bacteria, but also expect some spontaneous MLF to occur too. Whatever is doing well is used to further crossinoculate barrels. When the MLF is complete, the barrels are left to rest for a few weeks before being dosed with sulfur dioxide at a rate of 50-60mg/L.

Has the winemaking changed much over the years?

Our Chardonnay production technique for Kumeu River has evolved gradually over 40 years, guided by myself and winemaker Nigel Tibbits. I started winemaking at Kumeu in 1982, and Nigel has been here since 1974. By the time of the introduction of Hunting Hill Chardonnay in 2006, this technique was already pretty settled. The major change that occurred, however, just before the first release of Hunting Hill, was our complete conversion to screwcaps in 2001. This has resulted in a massive improvement in overall quality and consistency, and enhanced our confidence in the ability of this wine to age correctly and gracefully.

Has the style of the Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay evolved since the inaugural release?

The style has remained very consistent, with the only variable being vintage variation.

Biggest challenge in making this wine?

Most years this wine is simply a dream to harvest and make. There have been some difficult vintages, however, so careful triage has been very important. It is thanks to the diligence of our harvesting crew that we have still been able to make outstanding wines under these more trying conditions.

What’s the recommended retail price of the Hunting Hill Chardonnay, approximately how much is produced each year, and where is it sold?

AU$99.99 (Dan Murphy’s). About 14001500 12-bottle cases (12 bottle) are made each year which are sold in numerous markets: New Zealand, Australia, USA, UK, Denmark, France, Sweden, Spain, Netherlands, Hong Kong, Singapore,

Thailand, Korea, Germany, China.

What are the ageing recommendations for the wine?

The wine will last at least 10 years in bottle, but shows very well in the 4-6 year window.

Most notable accolades?

Over the years Hunting Hill has been very highly rated by critics such as Jancis Robinson, James Suckling, Bob Campbell, Huon Hooke, Nick Stock, Vinous, Wine Advocate, NZ Winerater, Wine Spectator and Winefront.

Best vintages?

2007, 2009, 2010, 2013, 2014, 2016, 2017, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022.

Ripening Chardonnay grapes in the Hunting Hill vineyard.

Chardonnay from Hunting Hill vineyard is exclusively harvested by hand to ensure the grapes that arrive at the winery are in pristine condition.

Bulk Wine Market

Bulk wine prices reach a turning point

Bulk red winegrape prices are likely to be at their lowest point in at least a decade, leaving many growers to assess their options moving forward. Harrison Davies investigates how the market – and producers – are likely to respond.

The disruptions caused by the closing of the China market to Australian wine exporters, and combined with post-pandemic supply chain problems, are continuing to have a substantial impact on the local grape and wine sector.

The aftermath has left the industry with a massive glut of bulk red wine, especially Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

As a consequence, wine producers have had to contend with a lack of storage as two years of vintage wine has been left

in tanks with nowhere to go and another vintage now visible on the horizon.

Prices for new grapes are forecast to be especially low and grower groups like CCW Cooperative Limited in the Riverland are asking hard questions: ‘what do I do with my grapes? How can I support my business? What is the future for the industry?’

Further complicating the matter is the price of bulk white wines, which has seen stabilisation and even growth.

While there are many theories as to why

the prices for bulk whites have remained buoyant, growers are left with questions about what to do with existing vines on their property.

Questions about the industry, that were raised before the closing of the China market, remain hanging over the heads of growers and buyers alike with calls continuing for greater transparency of how the bulk wine market, and its pricing scheme, is run.

Matt Tydeman, director and broker at Ciatti Australia, a bulk winegrape

Wine producers have had to contend with a lack of storage as two years of vintage wine has been left in tanks with nowhere to go.

brokerage firm, said that the global market has had a stressful couple of years, which has only further complicated the situation for growers and buyers in Australia.

“The wine market is slow with many companies being net sellers and the buying market is weak,” he said.

“Logistics have caused a big concern with freight rates being very expensive but we are starting to see some relief in these costs.

“We are long in red wines (as is the world with most countries having surpluses in red wines). However, the white market is balanced and demand has been good (which is also the same for other countries, the demand for white wines has been good).

Key Takeaways

“The size of the 2023 harvest will have a big effect on bulk wine prices going forward, the unknown is how much fruit gets picked and how much fruit is lost due to disease pressure with the excessive rain currently falling.

“We need a significantly smaller crush in 2023 to work through our surpluses. Expectations are that the bulk wine prices for reds will stay low until we start removing the surpluses from our inventory and buyer demand picks up.”

What’s happening with reds?

difficult circumstances ahead of the 2023 vintage.

In an August meeting with the CCW growers’ coop, Accolade Wine chief supply chain officer Derek Nicol said, via a letter to the group, that the situation in the region was hardly rose coloured.

“The last two years have brought significant challenges to the wine industry in Australia, ongoing supply chain challenges, increased cost of goods, change in consumer taste, tariffs and the pandemic have had a significant impact.

“Australian Wine is still uncompetitive in the global bulk wine market. Shipping, inflation and on-costs continue to have a serious impact so this makes us uncompetitive against other key countries of origin like Chile and South Africa. Also overall global wine consumption is still in decline so we need to address the Australian surplus.”

The inactivity of Australia’s red wine market and the continuing absence of Chinese business – not expected to change soon – raises the prospect of large quantities of uncontracted 2023 red grapes getting dumped. The white wine market, however, remains steady and there are discussions around grafting over to white wine grapes. La Niña, present for a third straight year, is likely to bring above-average spring/ summer rainfall, additional spraying costs potentially being another burden for growers on top of the red grape problem. La Niña is also present in New Zealand, bringing torrential downpours and flooding during the country’s warmest and wettest winter on record.

The result of the national surplus has meant red winegrape prices that are severely depressed. According to the Ciatti Australia New Zealand bulk wine report, released in October, prices for bulk red winegrapes have dipped as low as $0.50 per litre (Figure 1).

as much as 200,000 tonnes, from the 2023 vintage if yield is expected to be too high.

“We will offer $1,000 per hectare to avoid V23 intake,” Nicol said.

Ciatti Contacts

“There will be a 10% premium to the agreed V24 and V25 price for those mothballed/ postponed intakes and this can also help facilitate proposed crop changes (almonds, etc.) for year one.”

Matt Tydeman

T. +61 8 8361 9600 E. matt@ciatti.com.au

CCW Co-Op CEO Jim Godden said the mood in the Riverland was low and that many growers were simply investigating what options they had left.

Simply put, red grape prices are very low. Inland regions like the Riverland, Riverina and Murray Darling, which previously relied on the massive amounts of Shiraz and Cabernet sent to China, are facing

Vintage 2022 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc remains available, though container and vessel shortages have made shipping difficult.

Due to these bottom-of-the-barrel prices for bulk wines, anxiety about the upcoming vintage has lead producers to consider drastic action; some as simple as mothballing their vineyards or as drastic as walking away from their vines altogether.

Simone George T. +61 8 8361 9600 E. simone@ciatti.com.au

“In 2022, red bulk wine prices stayed depressed, continue to stay depressed and certainly show a significant lack of buyers in the market,” he said.

Growers in the Riverland are being encouraged to dump or mothball as much as 40 per cent of their grapes, potentially

“There is significant concern from growers at the 2023 current [vintage] indications. In a time when we have the same cost pressures as most of the rest of society, to know bulk wine prices are down, that gives

Expectations are that the bulk wine prices for reds will stay low until we start removing the surpluses from our inventory and buyer demand picks up.

Matt Tydeman

an indication that pricing for grapes will be down in 2023.

“Overlay that with a wet year of La Niña, we are seeing a lot more rainfall which is then requiring more intervention and spraying by the growers. That just puts into our growers minds as to what the [vintage] will end up like, knowing that costs arising from their side or input costs are rising.”

Godden continued to say that it was important for growers to be in communication with their winemakers so that everyone was on the same page about the state of the industry.

“I would say it’s probably one of the quietest times I’ve seen in the industry,” he said.

“I think everybody is just waiting and watching the weather within Australia. There are significant stocks of red still out there but we’re in a waiting phase.”

Riverland based Byrne Vineyards winemaker Mark Robinson echoed Godden’s comments and said many growers were selling grapes below cost just to get them out the door.

Nicol

“Due to the global shipping issues it’s meant that there is a lot of wine without a home. And so there are a lot of people who have spent money on wine, and now they don’t have anywhere for it to go.

“People are selling [wine] for below cost in order to make something back to pay as many people as they can. And there are some businesses closing up because they’re unable to continue.”

Another suggestion has been to graft white varieties over the red vines, as the former market has remained relatively stable.

According to the October bulk wine report from Ciatti, white winegrapes

maintained the prices across several varieties.

One need only dig into past reports, like that released in August 2022, to see that some white varieties, like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, have actually increased in value, however some forecasters see the price softening as New Zealand increases its presence in the market post-COVID.

“Some of the more in demand varieties, like Sauvignon Blanc, have seen a little bit of softening and that’s indicative of New Zealand coming back into a more normal style of vintage,” Godden said.

Robinson said the buoyancy of white

Shipping, inflation and on-costs continue to have a serious impact so this makes us uncompetitive against other key countries of origin like Chile and South Africa.

Derek

A massive glut of bulk red wines, especially Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, is currently in storage.

varieties was more reflective of the white varietal vines being pulled 10 years ago and the market beginning to re-stabilise since then.

“A lot of people pulled out white grapes in the irrigated districts and planted red,” Robinson said.

“Sauvignon Blanc has gone up from a very low level because it was oversupplied a few years ago but now it’s coming more back into balance.

“The prices for white wine, even on the bulk market are still at breakeven numbers. I don’t think it’s good at all.

“We’re currently selling bulk wine for around a little over $1 per litre and other people were selling it for 80 cents a litre and that’s below cost price.”

Picking up the pieces

There is no silver bullet solution to the bulk wine sector’s challenges.

Speakers at October’s Wine Industry Impact Conference in Bendigo explored the issues facing the industry and Michael Whitehead, head of Agribusiness at ANZ, said that even if the China market were to re-open, the wine industry would still face a $1 billion deficit due to the glut of red wine.

An investigation conducted by the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission (ACCC) found that the market for bulk wines was not transparent and provided little grounds for winegrape growers to be competitive when selling their harvest each year.

Their 2021 follow-up review identified several issues clouding the industry such as a lack of transparency and certainty over pricing and grape quality, as well as supply agreements that commonly did not provide price certainty or verifiable price benchmarks.

“Australian warm climate grape prices are strongly correlated to wine export prices and growers have access to current and past prices in global wine markets. However, questions remain over the usefulness of historic prices to growers looking to make forward-looking strategic decisions,” the report stated.

“Grape prices are dependent on expected future wine market conditions, which in turn depend on a broad range of factors including global wine inventory levels

Godden

and movements in consumer trends.

“The ACCC heard that it was difficult for individual growers to assess these factors as they lack the resources and visibility over sales channels to determine how these factors will influence future prices and therefore, prices they will receive for their grapes.”

Godden said that growers were awaiting the release of this year’s grape prices with anxiety and emphasised that open communication with buyers was the best way for individuals to make decisions about their own businesses.

“Early indications are they [prices] will follow the depressed state of bulk wine; there is a direct correlation between bulk wine and grapes. I would recommend that growers be talking to the wineries and

having honest and open conversations,” Godden said.

“We are also certainly working on the discussions on the longer term. We acknowledge that depressed pricing on bulk wine, but how do we work through the medium term and keep those strategic alliances alive?

“We need an industry still to be in place in ‘24 and ‘25. And so the discussions are around how do we manage a very out-of-balance ‘23, how do we manage a wet year, a high cost year?

“Those are all the conversations that we’re having with our major customers and wineries.”

Accolade’s Nicol agreed with Godden and asked for open dialogue to be shared between growers and wineries ahead of the vintage as a way to ensure as many people make it through what is likely to be a tough year ahead.

“You can see from the dialogue that this is a critical time in the Riverland and for the Australian Wine Industry in general,” Nicol said.

“We need to work our way through this to ensure the viability of the wine trade. This offers the best chance to make sure the industry is viable going forward for growers, CCW and Accolade Wines.”

In a time when we have the same cost pressures as most of the rest of society, to know bulk wine prices are down, that gives an indication that pricing for grapes will be down in 2023.

Jim

Some warm region producers have mothballed their vineyards or postponed intakes.

Design for change

Designers can be the agents for change, bringing innovation that advances both society and our world. In her presentation for the 2022 PACKWINE Forum & Expo, CEO and co-founder of Denomination Design, Rowena Curlewis, looked at how to drive change within the wine industry through design. She examined the ‘insights and truths’ that are shaping our world and the world of our consumers, and the need to define these in order to instigate change.

“If design exists to solve problems, assign meaning and enhance society, then one of its many jobs surely can be the betterment of the world and its inhabitants.”

Rowena Curlewis began her PACKWINE presentation with this quote from Chris Ertel at Sustainable Brands.

“I think that was a really great way to frame what design for change is all about,” she explained before positing a question. “How do we, within the wine industry, instigate and change and drive change from a design perspective?”

“How we do it at Denomination is we look at the insights and the truths that shape our world and those of our consumers.”

Curlewis said that the context of this in terms of culture, consumer and category needs to be defined.

“Then you will get to an insight and it’s that insight that if you address it, can then drive change successfully.”

She explained some of the ways this process can be achieved.

“If we look with a broad brush at culture, we know that the world and how we interact with it has changed, especially over the past three years.

“Clearly we’ve had the pandemic that has caused both economic and social fragility. We have a climate crisis; I think everyone is very aware of that from wildfires in California to bushfires in Australia, there are floods in Australia and, obviously, the climate change that we’re all experiencing.

“The subject of fake news is real and affects a lot of people and it means that trust in institutions and media is at an all-time low. As a flip side to this, people are really actively seeking out good news stories because what else is going on isn’t that great.”

Curlewis said that a 2022 report showed that consumers see business as more competent than government and that business should be taking the lead in driving change.

Looking to brands

“In terms of climate change, business is still not doing enough. But generally, people are looking to brands and business to drive the change that other institutions like government and media aren’t [delivering].

“What the last couple of years have done is they has actually pressed fast forward on a number of pre-existing trends that have been around for probably the last 10 years.

Continuing her presentation, Curlewis focused on four trends in particular.

“This idea of seeking some light relief from life’s stresses – and this was before

the pandemic but obviously exacerbated throughout it.

“Secondly, health and wellbeing we all know is a really big trend and that is not going away. Health is becoming more and more of a priority.

“There is a desire to escape our everyday world, stuck at a computer thinking ‘where would I rather be?’

“And finally, there is this craving for connection to each other, to community and also to nature. We saw that really prevalent in the pandemic, especially during lockdown when everyone had their hours timed outside; you really became aware of how beautiful nature is and how we really need to protect it.”

We’re actually re-evaluating what matters to us and we’re seeking out brands that lead when it comes to things that matter to us, no longer believing in government and media to do that.

Accolade’s Wise Wolf by Banrock Station features packaging made from 100% post-consumer recycled glass cullet, 100% recycled paper and 100% recycled plastic.

Rowena Curlewis

Rowena Curlewis is CEO and one of the founding partners of leading drinks design specialist Denomination. Denomination is an award-winning drinks design consultancy based in Australia, the UK and the US. They work for a large cross-section of clients from boutique to international icons. Now in its twentieth year, Denomination aims to continuously push boundaries and do things differently. Over that time the agency has created an impressive track record of developing memorable, highly individual drinks brands. Denomination’s is the only global drinks design agency to have achieved Climate Neutral status. As branding and packaging experts who specialize in drinks, they recognize the impact our industry has on the environment; sustainability is high on their agenda. Denomination is a signatory to the Harper’s Sustainability Charter and a member of The Porto Protocol.

The full presentations of all the 2022 PACKWINE speakers can be viewed online now: www.packwine. com.au/forum

Curlewis said that if these cultural trends are overlayed with certain consumer trends, there are some common overarching trends.

“There is this idea of shared values, of wanting brands that share your values; this idea of identity and self-expression […] this idea of wanting to identify with someone else and something else as a way of expressing your own self; health and wellness and craving connection [are] also some overarching trends that define the consumer, as well as the world that we’re living in.”

She said that the insight to be taken from understanding this is that our ‘worlds’ are increasingly anxious and uncertain.

“We’re actually re-evaluating what matters to us and we’re seeking out brands that lead when it comes to things that matter to us, no longer believing in government and media to do that.”

Changing consumer thinking and behaviour

She said that by addressing this particular insight a product or service can be developed that can enable consumers to change their thinking and their behaviour.

As a case study, she presented the example of Tread Softly, a brand that Denomination had designed about three years ago.

The idea was to present this as “a new wine for a new generation”.

“We needed to work out what this new generation was really looking for.”

Looking at the trends mentioned earlier, Curlewis said the strategy developed for the brand focused on health and nature.

“We came up with this brand proposition that was about treading softly on yourself, in terms of a naturally lower alcohol wine, and treading softly on the Earth. “We did that through sustainable packaging but also with our above the line and below the line campaign.

In discussing the product’s package design, Curlewis explained that the semiotics talk to a sense of “quiet” and of being “considerate of all that’s around you”.

“As part of the introduction of Tread Softly, the client promised that there would be one native tree planted for every 9LE case sold.

“It was an incredible campaign. What it did was it generated what we call a ‘Tread Tribe’, this very strong group of followers who are advocates for the brand and who spread the word in terms of its activism.”

She said these followers have helped to purchase and grow a forest of nearly a million trees in Western Australia.

“You can see that ‘design for change’ has enabled this incredible planting, it’s enabled activism and really has driven a greater awareness of sustainability I would say in trade and in consumer land.”

Curlewis then focused on a different product example with the development of the Plus & Minus brand.

‘Doing something differently’

“This was a zero alcohol wine that was trying to do something differently, to really drive consumers to look at nonalcoholic wine not in a way that was going to take something away […] but that would give them something back.

“Again looking at those trends, [this]

The branding of Treasury Wine Estates’ 19 Crimes Snoop Dogg Cali Red has resulted in 27% of its consumers being new to the wine category.

really focussed on health and wellbeing as the top priority, and that’s where we came up with ‘Plus & Minus’.

This contains, resveratrol, an antioxidant component derived from grape seeds, to increase the product’s health benefits.

“The semiotics of the label [featuring prominent ‘plus’ and ‘minus’ symbols] are taken from the cosmetics industry, with brands like The Ordinary and Aesop, giving this really beautiful, clean cosmetic-like feel.

“On the capsule is very tiny writing; it reminds you of pharmaceutical or cosmetic brands, [it has printed on it] all about the addition of the antioxidants and what that means.

“In terms of design for change, we’ve done that through the packaging but also through the product – designing that product innovation to introduce the additional resveratrol which is obviously higher in antioxidants.”

Another case study was then presented: Treasury Wine Estates’ 19 Crimes.

“This is another fantastic case study of innovating the idea of escapism,” said Curlewis. “We didn’t design the initial 19 Crimes – it was done about 10 years ago – but we’ve played a very big role in continuing to innovate within that brand.”

She explained that the campaign for 19 Crimes plays into the notion of ‘getting some light relief from life’s stresses and a desire to escape our everyday’.

“Everything within [the 19 Crimes range] has this sort of humour as well as this darkness and it really taps into consumers’ desire to perhaps become someone else in their mind that they wouldn’t necessarily be in their day-today life. Or, we like to listen to podcasts [about] crime, this really dials into that psyche.

The brand has become “an absolute success,” according to Curlewis, who added that five million cases are now sold each year.

Building a new world for consumers

“In terms of the change, I think it’s done two things: the augmented reality has really turned that consumer experience upside down, so rather than AI from a winery or the winemaker, it’s really built this whole world for consumers from the bottle; the second thing is

with the development of the Snoop Cali Red, we’ve actually had 27% of those consumers who are new to wine.

“This is driving big change in the consumer uptake of the wine that we actually haven’t seen anyone do before.”

The final case study centred on Wise Wolf by Banrock Station, a brand developed for the UK market.

“This one again is looking at the trend of craving connection to nature and each other.

“Wise Wolf is the leader of the pack and it came from looking at some of the challenges of restoring the natural balance in the woodlands and the forests of Europe and America by reintroducing the wolf back into that natural environment – we re-established the natural order of being.

Curlewis explained that the product, therefore, is all about ‘getting back to the essence of nature’ and stopping the negative impact that humans are having on the natural world.

“This is an incredible project that we did with Accolade Wines. Every single element of the package has been thoroughly thought through and researched.

“The glass bottle used 100% postconsumer recycled glass cullet, so [there’s] no industrial waste, it’s all postconsumer.

“The labels are made from 100% recycled paper, the closure is made from 100% recycled plastic and in total, the whole pack is 95.1% recycled content. There is, obviously, some non-recycled content in some of the glue and the inks and so forth, but we are working on that remaining 4.9%”

She characterised the design as displaying a ‘bold and unapologetic’ stance about trying to build better packaging solutions for the wine industry.

“What Wise Wolf is really trying to do is to pave the way for others within our industry to follow.”

In conclusion, Curlewis said that packaging designers can become the agents for change, bringing innovation that advances both society and the world.

“We’d really encourage the wine industry to think about wine being part of that movement to be an agent for change as well.”

More information about Denomination and its work within the drinks design category can be found online: www. denomination.com

The design of the Wise Wolf brand displays a ‘bold and unapologetic’ stance about trying to build better packaging solutions for the wine industry.

This is driving big change in the consumer uptake of the wine that we actually haven’t seen anyone do before.

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I n i t i a l a c t i o n s h a v e f o c u s e d o n t h e f i f t h p i l l a r , u n l o c k i n g t h e A W R I ’ s c o m m e r c i a l p o t e n t i a l , w i t h t h e i m p l e m e n t a t i o n o f a n e w b u s i n e s s s t r a t e g y f o r t h e A W R I ’ s c o m m e r c i a l a c t i v i t i e s A s i g n i f i c a n t f o c u s o f t h i s h a s b e e n t h e r e b r a n d i n g o f A W R I C o m m e r c i a l S e r v i c e s t o A f f i n i t y L a b s , a n i d e n t i t y w h i c h p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d f l e x i b i l i t y t o w o r k a c r o s s a r a n g e o f s e g m e n t s a n d m a r k e t s T h e A W R I m a s t e r b r a n d a l s o u n d e r w e n t a r e f r e s h a t t h e s a m e t i m e , e n s u r i n g o n g o i n g a l i g n m e n t b e t w e e n t h e t w o b r a n d s

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I t i s c l e a r t h a t c o n s u m e r s a c r o s s t h e w o r l d a r e i n c r e a s i n g l y i n t e r e s t e d i n n o a n d l o w a l c o h o l ( N O L O ) b e v e r a g e s F o l l o w i n g c o m p l e t i o n o f a t w o y e a r W i n e A u s t r a l i a f u n d e d N O L O p r o j e c t t h a t s o u g h t t o d e f i n e t h e d e s i r a b l e s e n s o r y a t t r i b u t e s o f e x i s t i n g N O L O b e v e r a g e s , N O L O r e s e a r c h a t t h e A W R I w i l l c o n t i n u e u n d e r t h e n e w i n v e s t m e n t a g r e e m e n t w i t h W i n e A u s t r a l i a I n a d d i t i o n , t h e A W R I a n d t h e U n i v e r s i t y o f A d e l a i d e h a v e r e c e i v e d a g r a n t f r o m P I R S A f o r a r e s e a r c h s c a l e s p i n n i n g c o n e f a c i l i t y t o b e i n s t a l l e d o n t h e W a i t e C a m p u s T h i s i s a m a j o r s t e p f o r w a r d f o r t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f N O L O w i n e p r o d u c t s , a s r e s e a r c h e r s a n d p r o d u c e r s w i l l b e a b l e t o c r e a t e t r i a l p r o d u c t b a t c h e s a t a m u c h s m a l l e r s c a l e t h a n h a s p r e v i o u s l y b e e n a v a i l a b l e t o o u r i n d u s t r y

T h i s f i n a n c i a l y e a r s a w t h e c o m p l e t i o n o f a p o r t f o l i o o f r e s e a r c h , d e v e l o p m e n t , e x t e n s i o n a n d a d o p t i o n p r o j e c t s f u n d e d b y W i n e A u s t r a l i a u n d e r a f i v e y e a r a g r e e m e n t F i n a l R e p o r t s w i l l b e d e v e l o p e d e a r l y i n 2 0 2 2 / 2 3 a n d m a d e a v a i l a b l e t h r o u g h t h e W i n e A u s t r a l i a w e b s i t e

T E C H N I C A L T R E N D S F R O M T H E A W R I H E L P D E S K A s i n p r e v i o u s y e a r s , t h e q u e r i e s r e c e i v e d b y t h e A W R I h e l p d e s k r e f l e c t e d t e c h n i c a l i s s u e s e n c o u n t e r e d d u r i n g t h e y e a r a n d w e r e s t r o n g l y i n f l u e n c e d b y w e a t h e r c o n d i t i o n s d u r i n g t h e g r o w i n g s e a s o n a n d v i n t a g e . W i n t e r r a i n f a l l i n 2 0 2 1 w a s a b o v e a v e r a g e a c r o s s m u c h o f A u s t r a l i a a n d f o r t h e s e c o n d y e a r r u n n i n g a L a N i ñ a s y s t e m w a s d e c l a r e d b y t h e B u r e a u o f M e t e o r o l o g y H a i l e v e n t s a f f e c t e d r e g i o n s a c r o s s m u l t i p l e A u s t r a l i a n s t a t e s b e t w e e n O c t o b e r 2 0 2 1 a n d J a n u a r y 2 0 2 2 T h e w e t t e r w i n t e r , g e n e r a l l y m i l d s e a s o n a l c o n d i t i o n s , a n d a w a r m e r t h a n a v e r a g e a u t u m n r e s u l t e d i n a s l o w r i p e n i n g s e a s o n a n d r e p o r t s o f e x c e p t i o n a l f r u i t q u a l i t y i n m a n y r e g i o n s W i n e A u s t r a l i a ’ s n a t i o n a l v i n t a g e s u r v e y e s t i m a t e d a n A u s t r a l i a n w i n e g r a p e c r u s h o f 1 7 3 m i l l i o n t o n n e s , 2 p e r c e n t b e l o w t h e 1 0 y e a r a v e r a g e a n d 1 3 . 5 p e r c e n t b e l o w l a s t y e a r ’ s r e c o r d c r u s h o f 2 . 0 1 m i l l i o n t o n n e s . K e y t o p i c s w h e r e q u e s t i o n s w e r e r a i s e d w i t h t h e h e l p d e s k d u r i n g t h e y e a r i n c l u d e d v i n e y a r d p e s t s ( i n p a r t i c u l a r s c a l e i n s e c t s ) , s m o k e t a i n t / p l a n n e d b u r n s a n d w i n e m a k i n g p r a c t i c e s r e l a t i n g t o N O L O p r o d u c t s , f o r t i f i e d w i n e s , v i n e g a r a n d t a n k m e t h o d s p a r k l i n g w i n e

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U n u s u a l l y , t h e L a N i ñ a s y s t e m c o n t i n u e d w e l l i n t o w i n t e r 2 0 2 2 a n d t h i s , a l o n g w i t h a n e g a t i v e I n d i a n O c e a n D i p o l e , r e s u l t e d i n w a r m e r t h a n a v e r a g e w a t e r s a r o u n d n o r t h e r n A u s t r a l i a T h i s a n d o t h e r l o c a l i s e d d r i v e r s s u g g e s t t h a t w i n t e r a n d s p r i n g r a i n f a l l a r e v e r y l i k e l y t o r e m a i n h i g h e r t h a n a v e r a g e f o r m u c h o f m a i n l a n d A u s t r a l i a , b u t l o w e r f o r W e s t e r n A u s t r a l i a n r e g i o n s a n d s o u t h w e s t e r n T a s m a n i a

W e a c k n o w l e d g e t h a t m a n y i n o u r i n d u s t r y a r e c u r r e n t l y f a c i n g a v e r y c h a l l e n g i n g s u p p l y / d e m a n d s i t u a t i o n a n d s i g n i f i c a n t p r e s s u r e s o n p r o f i t a b i l i t y T h e A W R I i s c o m m i t t e d t o s u p p o r t i n g p r o d u c e r s t h r o u g h t h e s e d i f f i c u l t m a r k e t c o n d i t i o n s

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A r i n g t e s t c o m p a r i n g r e s u l t s f r o m l a b o r a t o r i e s i n A u s t r a l i a , E u r o p e , S o u t h A m e r i c a a n d t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s f o u n d s i g n i f i c a n t l y h i g h e r v a r i a t i o n b e t w e e n r e s u l t s f o r h y d r o l y s i s b a s e d m e t h o d s f o r m e a s u r i n g b o u n d s m o k e c o m p o u n d s i n w i n e t h a n f o r t h e d i r e c t L C M S m e t h o d d e v e l o p e d a t a n d u s e d b y t h e A W R I .

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W o r k c o n t i n u e d o n d e v e l o p i n g a u n i f o r m a p p r o a c h t o t h e d e s c r i p t i o n o f t h e d i e t a r y e n e r g y c o n t e n t o f w i n e s . A n a l y s i s o f d a t a f r o m A f f i n i t y L a b s l e d t o a r e c o m m e n d a t i o n f o r s t a n d a r d d e c l a r a t i o n s f o r e n e r g y c o n t e n t b a s e d o n w i n e s t y l e r a t h e r t h a n c a l c u l a t i n g e n e r g y f o r e a c h i n d i v i d u a l w i n e T h i s a p p r o a c h e a s i l y s t a y e d w i t h i n t h e l a b e l t o l e r a n c e s r e q u i r e d i n E u r o p e a n d N o r t h A m e r i c a w h i l e g i v i n g m e a n i n g f u l i n f o r m a t i o n t o c o n s u m e r s a n d r e d u c i n g c o s t s f o r p r o d u c e r s

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T h e A g v e t C h e m i c a l P r o g r a m w a s u s e d f o r t h e f i r s t t i m e t o f u n d a n a s s e s s m e n t o f e i g h t a g r o c h e m i c a l s t h a t c o u l d b e n e f i t t h e g r a p e a n d w i n e i n d u s t r y T h i s p r o c e s s i d e n t i f i e d t h e i n f o r m a t i o n t h a t w o u l d b e r e q u i r e d t o h a v e t h e a c t i v e c o n s t i t u e n t s r e g i s t e r e d f o r u s e i n w i n e g r a p e p r o d u c t i o n T h e p r o g r a m a s s i s t s p a r t i c i p a t i n g c h e m i c a l c o m p a n i e s t o a s s e s s t h e v i a b i l i t y o f m a k i n g n e w a g r o c h e m i c a l s a v a i l a b l e

Extension, adoption and education

R E T U R N T O F A C E T O F A C E E V E N T S S i x r o a d s h o w s e m i n a r s a n d 1 4 w o r k s h o p s w e r e p r e s e n t e d i n 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 t o a t o t a l o f 7 2 5 a t t e n d e e s T h e m a j o r i t y o f e v e n t s w e r e a b l e t o b e h e l d f a c e t o f a c e , a s C O V I D 1 9 t r a v e l r e s t r i c t i o n s e a s e d

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M o r e t h a n 2 2 3 , 7 1 5 v i s i t o r s a c c e s s e d t h e A W R I w e b s i t e d u r i n g t h e y e a r ( a n i n c r e a s e o f 2 2 % c o m p a r e d t o t h e p r e v i o u s y e a r ) w i t h m o r e t h a n 6 4 5 , 7 7 5 p a g e v i e w s N e w c o n t e n t w a s a d d e d o n t o p i c s i n c l u d i n g n o n c h e m i c a l w e e d c o n t r o l , w a t e r m a n a g e m e n t , a e r a t i o n o f f e r m e n t s a n d a m e l i o r a t i o n o f s m o k e t a i n t i n j u i c e a n d w i n e

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T h r e e n e w d e m o n s t r a t i o n v i d e o s w e r e p r o d u c e d , c o v e r i n g t h e p r a c t i c e c h a n g e t h e m e s o f i r r i g a t i o n a n d a e r a t i o n o f f e r m e n t s I n a d d i t i o n , t h e n u m b e r o f s u b s c r i b e r s t o t h e A W R I ’ s Y o u T u b e c h a n n e l g r e w f r o m 2 , 4 4 2 i n 2 0 2 0 / 2 1 t o m o r e t h a n 4 , 1 0 0 i n 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 a n d t h e c h a n n e l a t t r a c t e d m o r e t h a n 2 7 1 , 9 2 0 v i e w s , u p b y m o r e t h a n 2 0 0 % f r o m t h e p r e v i o u s y e a r

A n e w p o d c a s t ‘ A W R I d e c a n t e d ’ w a s l a u n c h e d , w i t h t h e f i r s t s e r i e s f o c u s i n g o n w i n e f l a v o u r . U p t a k e o f t h e p o d c a s t w a s s t r o n g , w i t h a n a v e r a g e o f 4 3 5 l i s t e n s p e r e p i s o d e A s e c o n d s e r i e s w a s i n i t i a t e d i n e a r l y 2 0 2 2 , w i t h a t h e m e o f c u r r e n t v i t i c u l t u r e r e s e a r c h a n d t h e p r a c t i t i o n e r s w h o a r e a d o p t i n g i t

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D u r i n g 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 , t h e A W R I h e l p d e s k r e s p o n d e d t o 1 , 6 0 9 w i n e a n d v i t i c u l t u r e e n q u i r i e s a n d c o n d u c t e d 1 2 6 i n v e s t i g a t i o n s T h e r e w e r e a p p r o x i m a t e l y d o u b l e t h e t y p i c a l n u m b e r o f v i t i c u l t u r e q u e r i e s , m a i n l y d u e t o t h e c o o l , w e t c o n d i t i o n s i n m a n y r e g i o n s , h a i l a n d o t h e r c l i m a t i c e v e n t s

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I n 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 t h e l i b r a r y r e s p o n d e d t o 1 , 9 6 6 r e f e r e n c e a n d i n f o r m a t i o n r e q u e s t s , a n i n c r e a s e o f 8 5 % c o m p a r e d t o t h e p r e v i o u s y e a r O f t h e s e , t h e n u m b e r o f r e q u e s t s f o r r e s o u r c e s f r o m i n f o r m a t i o n p a c k s i n c r e a s e d f r o m 2 9 9 i n 2 0 2 0 / 2 1 t o 8 4 0 i n 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 T h i r t y t w o n e w i n f o r m a t i o n p a c k s w e r e a d d e d t o t h e A W R I w e b s i t e d u r i n g t h e y e a r L i b r a r y s t a f f a l s o p e r f o r m e d 5 6 s p e c i a l i s e d l i t e r a t u r e s e a r c h e s , a n i n c r e a s e o f 2 6 r e q u e s t s c o m p a r e d t o t h e p r e v i o u s y e a r

N E W D I G I T A L T O O L S A n e w d e c i s i o n t o o l w a s d e v e l o p e d t o h e l p g r o w e r s m a k e d e c i s i o n s a b o u t w h i c h n o n c h e m i c a l w e e d c o n t r o l o p t i o n s a r e b e s t s u i t e d t o t h e i r v i n e y a r d e n v i r o n m e n t a n d t o d e v e l o p a p l a n f o r e f f e c t i v e n o n c h e m i c a l w e e d c o n t r o l A s p r e a d s h e e t b a s e d w a t e r b u d g e t i n g t o o l d e v e l o p e d b y S A R D I w a s u p d a t e d i n t o a n o n l i n e t o o l t h a t i n c l u d e s d i r e c t l i n k s t o w e a t h e r d a t a f r o m t h e B u r e a u o f M e t e o r o l o g y .

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T h i r t y n i n e s h o w s w i t h a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 3 , 0 0 0 e n t r i e s u s e d t h e S h o w R u n n e r p l a t f o r m i n 2 0 2 1 / 2 2 ( a l m o s t b a c k t o p r e C O V I D l e v e l s ) S h o w R u n n e r a l s o n o w o f f e r s t h e a b i l i t y t o i n c l u d e i n t e r n a t i o n a l e n t r i e s , w i t h i n t e r n a t i o n a l G e o g r a p h i c a l I n d i c a t i o n s a v a i l a b l e t o b e c h o s e n w h e n w i n e s a r e e n t e r e d i n t o t h e s y s t e m

Performance, products and processes

S A V O U R Y F L A V O U R T A R G E T T h e a m i n o a c i d g l u t a m i c a c i d w a s f o u n d t o g i v e a s a v o u r y / u m a m i t a s t e t o r e d w i n e w h e n a d d e d a t c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f o u n d i n c o m m e r c i a l l y p r o d u c e d w i n e s , p r o v i d i n g a t a r g e t f o r c o n t r o l l i n g s a v o u r y f l a v o u r i n w i n e s I n r e l a t e d w o r k , a w i n e m a k i n g s t u d y i d e n t i f i e d h i g h e r f e r m e n t a t i o n t e m p e r a t u r e a s a f a c t o r i n e n h a n c i n g g l u t a m i c a c i d c o n c e n t r a t i o n i n r e d w i n e A d d i t i o n a l l y , g l u t a m i c a c i d c o n c e n t r a t i o n s i n p r e s s i n g s w i n e s w e r e f o u n d t o b e o n a v e r a g e 5 5 t i m e s g r e a t e r t h a n i n f r e e r u n w i n e

B L E N D I N G W I T H P R O L I N E R I C H W I N E S

R e s e a r c h o n t h e g r a p e d e r i v e d a m i n o a c i d , p r o l i n e , w h i c h p e r s i s t s t h r o u g h f e r m e n t a t i o n , d e m o n s t r a t e d i t s f l a v o u r p r o p e r t i e s i n w i n e I n a b l e n d i n g s t u d y u s i n g i n l a n d C a b e r n e t S a u v i g n o n w i n e s , o p t i m a l b l e n d s w e r e f o u n d t o i n c l u d e a h i g h p r o p o r t i o n o f w i n e w i t h e l e v a t e d p r o l i n e l e v e l s , w h i c h i n c r e a s e d s w e e t n e s s , v i s c o s i t y a n d f r u i t f l a v o u r , w h i l e l o w e r i n g a s t r i n g e n c y a n d b i t t e r n e s s . T h i s a p p r o a c h o f i d e n t i f y i n g p r o l i n e r i c h b l e n d i n g c o m p o n e n t s o p e n s a n e w a v e n u e f o r i m p r o v i n g ‘ t h i n ’ r e d w i n e s .

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T h e u s e o f f o l i a r a p p l i c a t i o n s o f s u l f u r a n d n i t r o g e n f o r m o d u l a t i n g ‘ t r o p i c a l ’ t h i o l s i n w i n e s w a s s h o w n t o b e e a s i l y a d o p t e d w i t h i n c o m m e r c i a l v i n e y a r d o p e r a t i o n s , a n d w a s s e l e c t e d a s a p r a c t i c e c h a n g e p r i o r i t y f o r f u t u r e e x t e n s i o n a c t i v i t i e s

C O N S U M E R R E S P O N S E T O S M O K E F L A V O U R

Customers, consumers and markets

O I V A P P O I N T M E N T M a r k u s H e r d e r i c h ( A W R I G r o u p M a n a g e r R e s e a r c h ) w a s e l e c t e d b y t h e S c i e n c e a n d T e c h n o l o g y C o m m i s s i o n a s V i c e P r e s i d e n t o f t h e O I V T h e O I V ( I n t e r n a t i o n a

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g l y c o s y l a t e d f o r m o f c o u m a r i c a c i d t h a t h a d b e e n p r e v i o u s l y s u s p e c t e d t o b e a p o t e n t i a l b i t t e r a n t i n w h i t e w i n e w a s s u b j e c t e d t o f o r m a l s e n s o r y a n a l y s i s S u r p r i s i n g l y , i t w a s f o u n d t o s u p p r e s s b i t t e r n e s s i n m o d e l w i n e T h i s r e s u l t s u g g e s t s t h a t t h e p r e s e n c e o f g l y c o s y l a t e d f o r m s o f h y d r o x y c i n n a m a t e s m a y p o s i t i v e l y c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e t a s t e o f w h i t e w i n e b y r e d u c i n g b i t t e r n e s s .

S E N S O R Y E F F E C T S O F F L O T A T I O N

A s t u d y i n v e s t i g a t i n g t h e e f f e c t s o f t h r e e d i f f e r e n t j u i c e c l a r i f i c a t i o n p r a c t i c e s o n t h e c o m p o s i t i o n , t a s t e a n d m o u t h f e e l o f w h i t e w i n e s h o w e d t h a t c l a r i f i c a t i o n v i a f l o t a t i o n r e s u l t e d i n w i n e s w i t h v e r y s i m i l a r p r o p e r t i e s t o t h o s e m a d e u s i n g t y p i c a l c o l d s e t t l i n g / r a c k i n g p r a c t i c e s . T h i s s h o u l d p r o v i d e w i n e m a k e r s w i t h i n c r e a s e d c o n f i d e n c e i n u s i n g t h e m o r e e f f i c i e n t a n d c o s t e f f e c t i v e f l o t a t i o n m e t h o d f o r w h i t e j u i c e c l a r i f i c a t i o n

A L T E R N A T I V E H E A T A N D C O L D S T A B I L I S A T I O N O P T I O N S

S u c c e s s f u l p r o o f o f p r i n c i p l e s t u d i e s d e m o n s t r a t e d t h e p o t e n t i a l o f a l t e r n a t i v e c o l d s t a b i l i s a t i o n s t r a t e g i e s b a s e d o n z e o l i t e s a n d p l a s m a m o d i f i e d s u r f a c e s U s i n g z e o l i t e s a n d c o a t e d s u r f a c e s w i t h c a r e f u l l y d e s i g n e d c h e m i c a l f u n c t i o n a l i t i e s c o u l d i n d u c e c o l d s t a b i l i s a t i o n w i t h o u t a n e e d f o r c o l d s t o r a g e o f w i n e , r e d u c i n g e n e r g y c o s t s .

O P T I O N S

F O R A E R A T I O N O F F E R M E N T S

T o s u p p o r t t h e a d o p t i o n o f f e r m e n t a e r a t i o n , e x p e r i m e n t s w e r e c o n d u c t e d t o d e t e r m i n e w h e t h e r g a s f l o w r a t e , s p a r g e r s u r f a c e a r e a , o r b o t h , s h o u l d s c a l e w i t h f e r m e n t s i z e w h e n a e r a t i n g s t a t i c w h i t e f e r m e n t a t i o n s F o r a g i v e n a i r f l o w r a t e t h e r e w a s l i t t l e e v i d e n c e t h a t a n i n c r e a s e i n s p a r g e r s u r f a c e a r e a o r a c h a n g e i n t h e d i s t r i b u t i o n o f s p a r g e r s w i t h i n t h e v e s s e l h a d a n y e f f e c t o n t o t a l c h a n g e i n r e d o x p o t e n t i a l T h e m a i n e f f e c t w a s d e r i v e d f r o m i n c r e a s e s i n g a s f l o w r a t e T h e s e r e s u l t s s u g g e s t t h a t f o r t h e l o w g a s f l o w r a t e s a d v i s e d f o r a e r a t i o n o f w h i t e f e r m e n t s , c o m p l e x s p a r g e r a r r a n g e m e n t s m a y n o t b e n e c e s s a r y f o r e f f e c t i v e a e r a t i o n , e s p e c i a l l y f o r l o n g e r d u r a t i o n t r e a t m e n t s

U N D E R S T A N D I N G N O L O B E V E R A G E S C o m p r e h e n s i v e s e n s o r y a n d c h e m i c a l p r o f i l i n g w e r e c o m p l e t e d o n s p a r k l i n g , w h i t e , r o s é a n d r e d N O L O w i n e s a s w e l l a s N O L O b e e r s , c i d e r s a n d s p i r i t s R e s u l t s h i g h l i g h t e d t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e a l c o h o l r e m o v a l p r o c e s s o n c h e m i c a l c o m p o s i t i o n a n d i d e n t i f i e d s e n s o r y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s t h a t a r e b e s t s u i t e d t o t h e s e p r o d u c t s . S e n s o r y e v a l u a t i o n s w e r e a l s o c o m p l e t e d o n p o s s i b l e a d d i t i v e s t h a t m a y i m p r o v e t h e f l a v o u r a n d t e x t u r e o f N O L O p r o d u c t s M a r c d e r i v e d g l y c o s i d e e x t r a c t s w e r e f o u n d t o b e u s e f u l i n N O L O w i n e s

G E N E T I C B A S I S O F L O W A C E T A T E P R O D U C I N G Y E A S T

G e n e t i c a n a l y s i s o f a p r e v i o u s l y d e v e l o p e d S c e r e v i s i a e S . u v a r u m h y b r i d y e a s t w i t h a t r a i t o f p r o d u c i n g l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f a c e t i c a c i d i d e n t i f i e d f o u r k e y a r e a s o f i n t e r e s t w i t h i n t h e c h r o m o s o m e e a r l i e r a s s o c i a t e d w i t h t h e t r a i t . D e l e t i o n o f i n d i v i d u a l g e n e s i d e n t i f i e d a k n o w n n e g a t i v e r e g u l a t o r o f g l y c e r o l p r o d u c t i o n a s a c r i t i c a l f a c t o r i n t h e l o s s o f t h e l o w a c e t a t e t r a i t T h i s w o r k s u g g e s t s t h a t t h e r e i s a l e v e l o f i n t e r p l a y b e t w e e n S c e r e v i s i a e a n d S u v a r u m g e n o m e s w i t h i n t h e h y b r i d , i m p r o v i n g i t s a b i l i t y t o a d a p t t o h i g h s u g a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s a n d l o w e r i n g i t s p r o d u c t i o n o f a c e t i c a c i d

N E W S T R A I N S O F O E N O C O C C U S O E N I T w o n o v e l s t r a i n s o f O . o e n i , o r i g i n a l l y i s o l a t e d f r o m w i l d f e r m e n t s , w e r e i d e n t i f i e d a s h a v i n g p o t e n t i a l a s c o m m e r c i a l s t a r t e r c u l t u r e s T h e s e s t r a i n s e x h i b i t s u p e r i o r p H a n d e t h a n o l t o l e r a n c e , f a v o u r a b l e M L F p e r f o r m a n c e a n d s i m i l a r i m p a c t s o n a l c o h o l i c f e r m e n t a t i o n a n d a c e t i c a c i d p r o d u c t i o n t o e x i s t i n g c o m m e r c i a l s t r a i n s

P r o g r e s s w a s m a d e i n u n d e r s t a n d i n g p o t e n t i a l c a u s e s o f n e g a t i v e i n t e r a c t i o n s b e t w e e n n o n S a c c h a r o m y c e s y e a s t a n d S c e r e v i s i a e , r e l e v a n t t o w i n e m a k e r s w h o w i s h t o u s e n o n S a c c h a r o m y c e s s t a r t e r c u l t u r e s . W h i l e p r e v i o u s w o r k h a d s u g g e s t e d t h a t t h a t i n h i b i t i o n o f S . c e r e v i s i a e b y T o r u l a s p o r a d e l b r u e c k i i w a s r e l a t e d t o t h e d e p l e t i o n o f s p e c i f i c a m i n o a c i d s , t h i s w a s d e m o n s t r a t e d n o t t o b e t h e c a s e I t n o w a p p e a r s i n c r e a s i n g l y l i k e l y t h a t t h e i n h i b i t i o n r e s u l t s f r o m v i t a m i n a n d e l e m e n t a l n u t r i e n t s e q u e s t r a t i o n I n p a r a l l e l , e x p e r i m e n t a l w o r k s h o w e d t h a t i r o n s e q u e s t r a t i o n w a s n o t r e s p o n s i b l e f o r t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f f e r m e n t a t i o n b y M p u l c h e r r i m a , a s h a d p r e v i o u s l y b e e n s u s p e c t e d

I N D U S T R Y E N D O R S E D S T A N D A R D P R O C E D U R E S F O R G R A P E A S S E S S M E N T

I n r e s p o n s e t o r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s f r o m t h e A C C C , i n d u s t r y e n d o r s e d s t a n d a r d p r o c e d u r e s w e r e d e v e l o p e d f o r t h e m e a s u r e m e n t o f t o t a l s o l u b l e s o l i d s , p H , t i t r a t a b l e a c i d i t y a n d c o l o u r , a n d v a l i d a t i o n o f s e c o n d a r y m e t h o d s . A r a n g e o f s u p p o r t i n g d o c u m e n t s w e r e a l s o c r e a t e d , t o h e l p e n s u r e g r a p e a s s e s s m e n t p r a c t i c e s a r e a s a c c u r a t e a n d r e l i a b l e a s p o s s i b l e T h i s w o r k w a s g u i d e d a n d r e v i e w e d b y a p r o j e c t r e f e r e n c e g r o u p o f r e p r e s e n t a t i v e s f r o m k e y i n d u s t r y b o d i e s

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A S S E S S I N G S O T O L E R A N T S T R A I N S O F B R E T T A N O M Y C E S

2 2 2 2 2

I n d u s t r y i s o l a t e s o f B r e t t a n o m y c e s w e r e s c r e e n e d f o r t h e a b i l i t y c o n s u m e p c o u m a r i c a c i d , t h e p r e c u r s o r o f t h e w i n e s p o i l a g e c o m p o u n d , 4 e t h y l p h e n o l T h e r e w a s n o s i g n i f i c a n t d i f f e r e n c e i n t h e a b i l i t y o f S O t o l e r a n t s t r a i n s t o c o n s u m e c o u m a r i c a c i d c o m p a r e d t o t h e i r S O s u s c e p t i b l e c o u n t e r p a r t s T h i s i n d i c a t e s t h a t t h e S O t o l e r a n t s t r a i n s r e t a i n t h e p o t e n t i a l t o s p o i l w i n e a t a l e v e l s i m i l a r t o s u s c e p t i b l e s t r a i n s T h e S O t o l e r a n t s t r a i n s w e r e a l s o t e s t e d f o r s u s c e p t i b i l i t y t o t h e a n t i m i c r o b i a l a g e n t s d i m e t h y l d i c a r b o n a t e a n d c h i t o s a n B o t h a g e n t s d e m o n s t r a t e d e f f e c t i v e n e s s a g a i n s t t h e s e i s o l a t e s .

U N D E R S T A N D I N G ‘ F L I N T ’ C H A R A C T E R I N W I N E A r a n g e o f e x p e r i m e n t s a s s e s s e d f a c t o r s i n f l u e n c i n g t h e f o r m a t i o n a n d p r e s e r v a t i o n o f p h e n y l m e t h a n e t h i o l ( P M T ) , a c o m p o u n d a s s o c i a t e d w i t h ‘ f l i n t ’ c h a r a c t e r i n w i n e A l i n k w a s e s t a b l i s h e d b e t w e e n j u i c e n i t r o g e n s t a t u s a n d t h e a m o u n t o f P M T p r o d u c e d d u r i n g w i n e m a k i n g T h e p r e s e r v a t i o n o f P M T i n w i n e s w a s d e t r i m e n t a l l y a f f e c t e d b y c o p p e r a n d i r o n , a s w e l l a s h i g h r e s i d u a l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f H S a n d S O T h e a b i l i t y o f n o n S a c c h a r o m y c e s y e a s t t o c o n t r i b u t e t o P M T f o r m a t i o n w a s a l s o i n v e s t i g a t e d , w i t h n i n e H a n s e n i a s p o r a v i n e a e a n d H a n s e n i a s p o r a o s m o p h i l a s t r a i n s e v a l u a t e d T h e H v i n e a e s t r a i n s p r o d u c e d h i g h e r l e v e l s o f b e n z a l d e h y d e a n d b e n z y l a l c o h o l , b u t d i d n o t i n c r e a s e t h e f o r m a t i o n o f P M T . T h e H . o s m o p h i l a s t r a i n s p r o d u c e d h i g h l e v e l s o f P M T .

2 2

S M A R T S U R F A C E S R E M O V E ‘ R E D U C T I V E ’ C O M P O U N D S

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T h e e f f e c t i v e n e s s o f s m a r t s u r f a c e s i n r e m o v i n g ‘ f r e e ’ H S , m e t h a n e t h i o l ( M e S H ) , a n d e t h a n e t h i o l ( E t S H ) f r o m w i n e s w a s c o m p a r e d w i t h t h e c o m m o n p r a c t i c e o f c o p p e r f i n i n g . T h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f H S , M e S H , a n d E t S H w e r e s i g n i f i c a n t l y d e c r e a s e d a f t e r t r e a t m e n t w i t h t h e s m a r t s u r f a c e s T h e t r e a t m e n t w a s a s e f f e c t i v e o r m o r e e f f e c t i v e t h a n c o p p e r f i n i n g f o r w h i t e w i n e s I n a d d i t i o n , S O d i d n o t i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e a b i l i t y o f t h e s m a r t s u r f a c e s t o r e m o v e H S a n d t h e t r e a t m e n t d i d n o t r e m o v e ‘ t r o p i c a l ’ t h i o l s

M I N I M I S I N G T H E R I S K O F ‘ R E D U C T I V E ’ C H A R A C T E R S

N C A N N E D W I N E S

W i n e c o m p o s i t i o n a l f a c t o r s i n c l u d i n g p H , f r e e S O , c o p p e r , o x y g e n , c h l o r i d e a n d e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s h a v e b e e n s h o w n t o i n f l u e n c e t h e m i g r a t i o n o f a l u m i n i u m i n t o c a n n e d w i n e s a n d t h e s u b s e q u e n t f o r m a t i o n o f H S T r i a l s w i t h a c o n s o r t i u m o f c a n n e d w i n e p r o d u c e r s s h o w e d t h a t t h e r i s k o f r e d u c t i v e c h a r a c t e r s i n c a n n e d w i n e s c a n b e m i n i m i s e d i f w i n e s w i t h a l o w r i s k c o m p o s i t i o n a l p r o f i l e a r e p r e s e l e c t e d T h i s c a n b e c o m b i n e d w i t h t r e a t m e n t u s i n g a c o m m e r c i a l c r o s s l i n k e d p o l y m e r p r i o r t o c a n n i n g t o d e c r e a s e t h e r i s k o f a l u m i n i u m m i g r a t i o n i n t o t h e w i n e s a n d t h e s u b s e q u e n t f o r m a t i o n o f H S .

2 2

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y r e l a t e d t o s m o k e f l a v o u r i n w i n e . D i f f e r e n t m o d e l s w e r e r e q u i r e d t o p r e d i c t s m o k y f l a v o u r i n C h a r d o n n a y , P i n o t N o i r a n d S h i r a z w i n e s f r o m g r a p e d a t a T h e A W R I c a n n o w p r o v i d e b e t t e r g u i d a n c e t o p r o d u c e r s o n g r a p e a n d w i n e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e l i k e l y t o r e s u l t i n s m o k y w i n e s

B A C K G R O U N D D A T A B A S E O F S M O K E M A R K E R C O M P O U N D S C o m p r e h e n s i v e d a t a f r o m m o r e t h a n 1 , 0 0 0 n o n s m o k e e x p o s e d g r a p e a n d w i n e s a m p l e s a c r o s s 1 2 m a j o r v a r i e t i e s w a s p u b l i s h e d i n a n o p e n a c c e s s p e e r r e v i e w e d a r t i c l e T h e s e v a l u e s a r e u s e d r o u t i n e l y f o r i n t e r p r e t a t i o n o f s m o k e a n a l y s i s r e s u l t s a n d t h e i d e n t i f i c a t i o n o f g r a p e s n o t e x p o s e d t o s m o k e

e n c e s w i t h t h e e q u i p m e n t

W I C W i n e m a k i n g S e r v i c e s a t t a i n e d c e r t i f i e d m e m b e r s t a t u s w i t h S u s t a i n a b l e W i n e g r o w i n g A u s t r a l i a T h i s c e r t i f i c a t i o n r e f l e c t s t h e f a c i l i t y ’ s c o m m i t m e n t t o s u s t a i n a b l e p r a c t i c e s a n d c o n t i n u o u s i m p r o v e m e n t

S E Q U E N C I N G A U S T R A L I A N G R A P E V I N E C L O N E S

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I M P A C T O F T E M P E R A T U R E O N W I L D F E R M E N T S

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N O N S A

P R O M I S E

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U S T R A L I A

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S E R V I C E D E L I V E R Y A N D C U S T O M E R G

R O W T H

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C I T I Z

E N S C I E N C

E T h e A W R I i s w o r k i n g w i t h s c h o o l s t u d e n t s a r o u n d A u s t r a l i a o n a c i t i z e n s c i e n c e p r o j e c t t h a t i s l o o k i n g f o r u n d i s c o v e r e d A u s t r a l i a n f u n g a l s p e c i e s I n t h e p r o j e c t ’ s f i r s t y e a r , e i g h t s c h o o l s p a r t i c i p a t e d a n d 9 0 p o s i t i v e c u l t u r e s w e r e r e c u l t u r e d t o o b t a i n y e a s t i s o l a t e s A t l e a s t 3 7 d i f f e r e n t s p e c i e s o f y e a s t w e r e f o u n d , w i t h s o m e s p e c i e s p r e s e n t i n m o r e t h a n o n e s a m p l e

M E T A B O L O M I C S C A P A B I L I T Y I N C R E A S E D M e t a b o l o m i c s S A h a s i n c r e a s e d i t s c a p a b i l i t y a n d c a n n o w p r o f i l e m o r e t h a n 4 0 0 n o n v o l a t i l e m e t a b o l i t e s i n p l a n t s , b i o f l u i d s , m i c r o o r g a n i s m s , f o o d s a n d b e v e r a g e s . T h e f a c i l i t y l a u n c h e d a n e w w e b s i t e ( m e t a b o l o m i c s a w r i c o m a u ) t o p r o m o t e t h e a n a l y t i c a l t e c h n o l o g i e s , s e r v i c e s a n d e x p e r t i s e i t o f f e r s t o r e s e a r c h e r s a n d i n d u s t r y

R e a d e r s a r e e n c o u r a g e d t o r e a d t h e a n n u a l r e p o r t i n d e t a i l r a t h e r t h a n r e l y i n g o n t h e b r i e f d e t a i l s p r o v i d e d h e r e . T h e f u l l r e p o r t c a n b e f o u n d o n t h e A W R I w e b s i t e : w w w a w r i c o m a u

A c k n o w l e d g e m e n t s : T h e Au s t r a l i a n W i n e R e s e a r c h I n s t i t u t e , a m e m b e r o f t h e W i n e I n n o v a t i o n C l u s t e r i n A d e l a i d e , i s s u p p o r t e d b y A u s t r a l i a n g r a p e g r o w e r s a n d w i n e m a k e r s t h r o u g h t h e i r i n v e s t m e n t b o d y , W i n e A u s t r a l i a , w i t h m a t c h i n g f u n d s f r o m t h e A u s t r a l i a n G o v e r n m e n t . T h e c o n t r i b u t i o n o f c o l l a b o r a t o r s i n A u s t r a l i a a n d o v e r s e a s i s g r a t e f u l l y a c k n o w l e d g e d .

W I C W I N E M A K I N G S E R V I C E S A C H I E V E S C E R T I F I C A T I O N

C C H A R O M Y C E S Y E A S T S T R A I N S S H O W

R E N E W E D F U N D I N G A G R E E M E N T W I T H W I N E A

A s e t o f s m o k e m a r k e r s i n c l u d i n g s e v e r a l v o l a t i l e p h e n o l s a n d g l y c o s i d e s i n g r a p e s a n d w i n e w e r e f o u n d t o b e s t r o n g l

Foundational data and support services

Environment, sustainability and natural capital

M

U S V I N E Y A R D V E H I C L E S

A n a u t o n o m y k i t w a s f i t t e d t o a t r a c t o r a n d i t w a s s u c c e s s f u l l y r u n w i t h u n d e r v i n e w e e d i n g a n d o t h e r v i n e y a r d i m p l e m e n t s , i n c l u d i n g a c a n o p y s p r a y e r a n d a m u l c h e r A d e m o n s t r a t i o n d a y w a s h e l d f o r g r o w e r s t o s h a r e i n i t i a l e x p e r i

How can you use digital content marketing to improve the consumers’ experience with your brand?

By Xianrui Zeng¹, Armando Maria Corsi¹, Steve Goodman¹

Introduction and background

It is a consolidated fact that people have been spending an increasing amount of time online to know more about a brand before potentially making a purchase (Hollebeek & Macky, 2019). This behaviour is not only due to COVIDrelated challenges, but also to the uptake of mobile technology. To keep up with the trend, wineries have been looking at ways to improve the experiences customers have with their brand(s) through what the literature refers to as Digital Content Marketing (DCM) DCM is a long-reaching and low-cost strategic marketing approach to create and distribute valuable, relevant and consistent content to inform, to educate

and to entertain customers without aggressive selling pitches (Content Marketing Institute, 2018). An example of DCM could be a winery uploading a video on its YouTube channel showing what food best matches its wines. In doing so, DCM improves consumers’ awareness towards the brand and the experience customers have with the brands; two factors, which ultimately lead to an increase in sales (Dwivedi et al., 2021; Lou & Xie, 2021). However, it is still unclear what content delivers the best returns for a winery, and whether brands adopting different positioning strategies (i.e. more commercially oriented or more premium) should consider developing different content material.

Method

In order to fill this knowledge gap, we conducted a study in the first half of 2022. We started by conducting a pre-test on 25 Australian wine brands. For each of these brands, we asked respondents to check whether they were aware of the existence of the brand, and, if so, how they would score the brand on a commercial/prestige scale. The results showed us that Penfolds was considered as the most prestigious brand of the lot, whilst Yellowtail was considered the most commercial brand. Both brands recorded a similar level of awareness.

As videos are recognised as one of the most effective formats to carry multi-

¹Adelaide Business School, The University of Adelaide

sensory content (Holliman & Rowley, 2014; Teixeira et al., 2012), we downloaded three videos from the official YouTube pages of each of the two brands. The selection of the videos was made to represent the three main types of content literature suggests a video could display: tutorial, brand campaign and consumer story (Lou & Xie, 2021).

The videos became part of an online survey, which we conducted in Australia in July/August 2022, through a professional panel provider. Survey participants had to be of legal drinking age (18 years old+), consume wine more than once per month and be aware of both brands. Together with a series of socio-demographic and psychographic questions, we asked participants to watch the three videos for each brand. After each set of three videos, we asked participants to express their judgment about the informative, entertainment, social and functional values the videos communicated about the brand, the experiential evaluation of the brand, their willingness-to-purchase the brand, and their willingness to spread a positive message about the brand.

We collected a total of 391 valid responses, with nearly equal audiences watching Yellowtail (n=194) and Penfolds (n=197). The sample distribution of age, gender, and state of residence was representative of the Australian wine drinking population.

Results

We analysed the causal relationships between the four values and the experiential evaluation of the brand, and then Word of Mouth (WOM) and purchase Intention as consequences. The result of the multi-group-analysis shows that all the hypotheses related to the influence of the values on the experiential evaluation of the brand can be accepted. In addition, a positive experiential evaluation of the brand leads to higher WOM and purchase intention. However, none of the hypotheses shows a statistically significant difference between the commercial and premium brand (see Table 1).

Regarding the four values affecting experience with wine brands, Table 1 showed that for both commercial and premium wine brands, entertainment value is the most important value accounting for brand experiences, followed by functional value, informative value, while social value is the least

important value having limited impact on experiential evaluation.

Take-home message

Wineries face significant challenges in developing brand communication strategies in the modern digital era of information overload. This research provides a few critical messages for wineries’ DCM operation.

Firstly, given the importance of DCM in converting prospects into buying customers or promoters through engaging branded content (Hollebeek & Macky, 2019), wine marketers should be confident about adopting DCM as an existing and prospective customer relationship marketing tool to shape consumers’ brand experience, and ultimately trigger WOM and purchase intention. Unlike traditional media channels such as newspaper and television advertisements, DCM offers greater flexibility at a relatively low cost, allowing tremendous opportunities to reach a diverse and massive customer base.

Wineries face significant challenges in developing brand

strategies in the modern digital era of information overload.

Secondly, this study reveals that commercial and premium wine brands could embrace the same DCM strategies, due to no significant impact from brand prestige was found. This result empirically rejected the assumption that prestigious wine brands should produce more sophisticated content to engage with wine consumers; instead, both commercial and premium wine brands could focus on the DCM values: entertainment value, functional value, informative value and social value, in order of priority. This critical finding allows wine marketers flexibility in DCM operation without being constrained by brand prestige.

When creating content that carries entertainment value, wineries could allocate resources to produce exciting, enjoyable and relaxed video clips to ensure a pleasant brand experience. For example, Penfolds’ customer story video features a customer sharing a cheerful story about a bottle of back vintage Penfolds Grange,

triggering audiences’ joyful feelings or memories. Furthermore, wineries should make an effort to improve the reliability of DCM channels to address functional value. In the digital world with exploded truth and misinformation, providing customers with a believable and trustworthy communication channel to get reliable information would significantly improve brand experiences. Many creative approaches could achieve it. For example, Penfolds consistently uploads videos onto their official YouTube channel with well-produced and formatted content, making this channel a go-to place for customers to shortcut the process of finding reliable information. In the same vein, the informative value could be addressed by including educational video clips. For instance, Yellowtail posts videos about how to make a Sangria cocktail by using a bottle of Yellowtail wine; Penfolds wine ambassador shows customers how to assess wine faults, glass and wine matching, and new vintage release tasting notes, etc. Notably, this content should not be too dry or “nerdy” to watch, otherwise it would diminish the most important value in the content: entertainment value.

Finally, although the perceived social value has the least correlation with consumers’ experiential evaluation, both low- and high- prestigious wine brands should consider creating content that facilitates conversation or relationships in consumers’ social networks. For example, Yellowtail initiated an online social event (i.e. Tastes Like Happy) to encourage consumers to celebrate and

share everyday moments of joy with a bottle of Yellowtail.

References

Content Marketing Institute. (2018). What Is Content Marketing? https:// contentmarketinginstitute.com/what-iscontent-marketing/

Dwivedi, Y. K., Ismagilova, E., Hughes, D. L., Carlson, J., Filieri, R., Jacobson, J., Jain, V., Karjaluoto, H., Kefi, H., & Krishen, A. S. (2021). Setting the future of digital and social media marketing research: Perspectives and research propositions. International Journal of Information Management, 59, 102168.

Hollebeek, L. D., & Macky, K. (2019). Digital content marketing’s role in fostering consumer engagement, trust, and value: Framework, fundamental propositions, and implications. Journal of interactive marketing, 45, 27-41.

Holliman, G., & Rowley, J. (2014). Business to business digital content marketing: marketers’ perceptions of best practice. Journal of research in interactive marketing, 8(4), 269-293.

Lou, C., & Xie, Q. (2021). Something social, something entertaining? How digital content marketing augments consumer experience and brand loyalty. International Journal of advertising, 40(3), 376-402.

Teixeira, T., Wedel, M., & Pieters, R. (2012). Emotion-induced engagement in internet video advertisements. Journal of marketing research, 49(2), 144-159.

Bottling & Packaging

An expansion to ‘Return and Earn’

Wine industry dismayed at ‘lack of consultation’

New South Wales introduced a container deposit scheme, known as the Return and Earn scheme, in 2017 as a way to reduce litter on the streets by offering refunds for drinks containers like cans and 600ml plastic and glass bottles. An expansion to the scheme was proposed in October and was met with heated criticism. Journalist Harrison Davies examines how the proposed expansion might affect the wine industry.

The New South Wales wine industry were left perplexed in mid-October when the State Government announced a proposed expansion to its container deposit scheme (CDS), known as Return and Earn.

The expansion was announced to include 750ml glass wine and spirit bottles and would allow consumers to return empty wines bottles to designated sites for a 10 cent refund.

The announcement was immediately met with criticism from the New South Wales Wine Industry Association (NSW Wine) which claimed such an expansion of the scheme would increase the cost of production for wine businesses.

To make matters worse, the NSW Government opened the proposal up for public consultation before speaking with wine industry bodies, creating frustration over a lack of communication.

NSW Wine President Mark Bourne condemned the planned expansion and said it didn’t make sense to include glass wine bottles in the scheme as they did not contribute to littler in the same was as PET bottles or cans.

“The original CDS was put in place as a little reduction scheme, therefore targeting beverages that perhaps weren’t consumed in home, or licenced premises to the same degree as wine bottles,” he said.

“It’s quite clear in the EPA’s own paper reports that wine bottles make up a small fraction of the litter stream.

“The total lack of engagement from the NSW EPA and [Environment] Minister Griffin is very disappointing.

“This ill-informed proposal, after zero consultation with industry, does not outline in any way how it will further

drive a circular economy and has familyowned NSW wineries footing the bill to the tune of over $30 million per year.”

The NSW wine industry has signalled its support for measures that would improve the recycling capacity of the state, but argued that the proposed expansion of the CDS was a poor decision.

Chasing sustainability

Return and Earn and other CDS measures were first started as a way to combat litter in public spaces by offering consumers with an incentive to remove bottles and cans, typically used for soft drinks and water, off the streets and into the recycling stream.

Such a system was first introduced in South Australia in 1977 and similar schemes have since been adopted by almost every other state in the country.

SA provided a good case study for the

Return and Earn and other CDS measures were first started as a way to combat litter in public spaces by offering consumers with an incentive to remove bottles and cans, typically used for soft drinks and water, off the streets and into the recycling stream.

program, where containers that were included as part of the scheme now only make up roughly two per cent of litter in the state.

The proposed expansion to the scheme in NSW hoped to make an extra 400 million bottles eligible and a spokesperson for the Environment Protection Authority (EPA) said the scheme would help to boost the state’s circular economy.

“The NSW Government’s planned expansion would see up to an additional 400 million eligible bottles recycled each year, including 233 million glass bottles,” the spokesperson said.

“By accepting more types of containers, NSW is set to boost recycling rates,

reduce landfill and supercharge the NSW Government’s push towards a circular economy.

“As a community, we need to be more aware of the costs of generating and dealing with our waste.”

This argument was refuted by the wine industry and several players pointed out that wine bottles barely make a contribution to litter throughout Australia.

Australian Grape & Wine (AGW) CEO Lee McLean said that it was unsuitable for the wine industry to take part in the scheme as wine bottles do not contribute to litter in public spaces in the same way that cans and PET bottles do.

“Smaller packages, such as beer bottles and cans were included in CDS arrangements because they represented a significant proportion of the public litter stream,” McLean said.

“Wine and spirits bottles make up less than one per cent of the litter stream, because they are almost always consumed in the home or at a licenced venue, with the empty bottles already making their way into the recycling stream through the kerbside collection system (yellow top recycling bins).

“Less than one per cent of the litter stream is made up of wine and spirit bottles. Given this, while rates of beer bottle recycling (for example), may have increased because they were included in the CDS, there is no data to suggest a similar improvement in collection rates for wine bottles.”

The EPA spokesperson also said that the cost of the scheme would be passed on to the consumer; under the current scheme cost per glass container is 12.5 cents excluding GST, consumers can then get a 10 cent refund for empties.

This may not work the same way in the context of wine as the wine industry operates differently to the beer and soft drinks industry.

McLean and Bourne both pointed to the upfront cost that would be placed upon wine producers, and that much of that would simply be a tax that could not be passed along, pointing to a similar proposed expansion in South Australia that did not go ahead.

“Minister Griffin is assuming winemakers will be able to pass on costs to consumers through the major retailers. The competition for shelf space in a retail market dominated by two major retailers, one of which is investing heavily in their own wine brands, means the likelihood of passing any costs on to consumers is miniscule,” McLean said.

“Indeed, in the South Australian context, the massive cost to winemakers of including wine bottles in the CDS was estimated to bring just a one per cent increase in collection rates.”

Paying for an expansion

Estimates of the cost to the proposed expansion have the scheme costing wine producers approximately $30 million.

NSW Wine President Mark Bourne. Photo: NSW Wine

This cost was found through the information available in the NSW EPA’s discussion paper for the expansion of the scheme and wine industry bodies like NSW Wine and Australian Grape & Wine suggest the cost could be higher due to factors like label redesigns, registrations, compliance and reporting procedures varying from business to business.

AGW CEO Lee McLean said the $30 million calculation was a conservative estimate, and that the actual number could be much higher.

“The cost of expanding this sub-optimal policy approach in NSW alone would be, under our conservative estimate, approximately $30 million per year. This cost is born entirely by winemakers, who will not be able to pass cost on through the supply chain,” he said.

“CDS is a populist measure that has the potential to cost the Australian wine sector $100 million per annum if adopted nationally, despite driving little-to-no environmental benefit.”

Bourne added that much of this cost would be placed on the shoulders of small, family owned wineries, who are already facing financial hardship after several years of challenges.

It’s argued that wine bottles are typically consumed in the home or licenced venues and therefore don’t become litter in public spaces.

“This cost to the wine industry comes on the back of four very difficult years, with the industry battling the effects of drought, bushfires and smoke, COVID-19 shutdowns, floods and crippling export tariffs into China,” he said.

“Make no mistake, jacking up costs for wine producers in the Hunter, Riverina, Southern Highlands, Orange, Mudgee and beyond – the majority of them small and medium sized family businesses –will send some of them to the wall.”

The EPA spokesperson said that business need not worry, as many of those already involved with the scheme from the drinks

sector were also smaller businesses.

“We’re currently already working successfully with more than 500 small businesses across NSW, including craft breweries, beer and cider producers,” the spokesperson said.

“In fact, small businesses make up more than 75% of the active suppliers involved in the Return and Earn scheme who have embraced participation.”

McLean refuted this argument and said the NSW State Government had a misunderstanding about how the wine industry was structured, and that many businesses would not be able to weather the extra cost.

This ill-informed proposal, after zero consultation with industry, does not outline in any way how it will further drive a circular economy and has family-owned NSW wineries footing the bill to the tune of over $30 million per year.

Mark Bourne

“As farmers, our members are used to dealing with issues that come their way – like the fires, smoke, hail and floods they’ve experienced over the last two years,” he said.

“Despite taking many to the brink of collapse, they realised with the pandemic and the effective closure of the China market that there wasn’t much they could do about these issues other than put their heads down and work through it as best they could.

“But when a Minister makes a calculated decision to impose – at this challenging time – a massive $30 million tax to on winemakers to fund what is an ineffective system for increasing glass recycling, that’s not something our sector is willing to accept.”

Recycling more sustainably

In their response to the announcement of public consultation for the expansion of the scheme, NSW Wine pointed to the roll out of Victoria’s glass recycling bins as a better solution for glass recycling.

Victoria is going to be rolling out its own CDS in 2023. However, it has launched a four-stream waste recycling service to go alongside it.

The four-stream service works in the same way that the three-stream bin service works in most states, only there will be a fourth bin specifically for glass.

Victoria’s four-stream recycling system will aim to divert 80% of all material away from landfill and all Victorian local government areas will have transitioned to the four-stream system including separate glass and a food and garden organics service by 2030.

A spokesperson for the Victorian Department of Environment, Land, Water and Planning said the new glass service will help to ensure glass containers like jars and bottles will be transformed multiple times into many different products.

“Victoria’s container deposit scheme (CDS) will be Australia’s most accessible and convenient scheme, maximising the number of drink containers returned for recycling and reuse while reducing litter in the environment,” they said.

“The Victorian CDS complements the Government’s new four-stream waste and recycling service and will deliver

more and better recycling, less waste, reduce litter by up to half, hundreds of new jobs and economic opportunities and a cleaner, greener state.”

McLean said a system like this would be much more beneficial to the wine industry, as it would encourage more recycling as well as avoid upfront cost to wine producers.

“The evidence – including from the New South Wales EPA’s own cost benefit

analysis – shows that expanding the CDS to capture wine bottles is a sub-optimal method for increasing the collection of glass for recycling,” he said.

“Other options should be given far more consideration – including the fourth kerbside bin for glass being rolled out by the Victorian Government, which we support.”

Kerbside collection of glass waste is the favoured option by many industries, and the discussion paper written by the NSW EPA suggested it would drive much more waste from landfill.

Sarah McElholum, deputy chair of the newly-formed Wine Industry Sustainable Packaging Association, explained some of the benefits of kerbside glass collection in the wine industry context.

“We are under the understanding that this container deposit scheme was created

on an easy to drink volume size that is not necessarily consumed in the home,” McElholum said. “It’s to reduce litter from the external environment to enable cleaner parks and cleaner roadsides.

“When you think of wine and spirits, those volumes are actually usually consumed in a home, and therefore they are a larger weight.

“If the contamination is reduced, by having a single glass being kerbside, then

CDS is a populist measure that has the potential to cost the Australian wine sector $100 million per annum if adopted nationally, despite driving little-to-no environmental benefit. –

Lee McLean

Exchange for Change CEO Danielle Smalley ,Taronga Director of Welfare, Conservation and Science Nick Boyle, TOMRA Cleanaway CEO James Dorney and NSW Environment Minister James Griffin. Photo: NSW EPA

you would actually see a much higher amount of glass being recycled.

“We also need to ask the question of what the carbon foot printing is of this scheme.

“We need to be really aware that a single truck comes down every week to collect your recycling from kerbside, then you’d be replacing that by putting multiple cars on the road for individuals to then seek out these either reverse vending machines or recycling depots.

“If we look to the future, vehicles that are going to be EVs are actually going to be council vehicles. Therefore, we’re actually shifting more carbon away from the consumer because recycling is managed by council.”

Consultation

Consultation for the NSW scheme closed as the start of this month with the State Government having organised several meetings with industry players to discuss how the expansion could best be structured to suit the industry

Mclean said it was important that the industry’s voices were heard.

“The Minister chose to make this announcement without any consultation with industry. New South Wales Wine was not consulted. Australian Grape & Wine was not consulted and I haven’t spoken to a single company that was consulted. Frankly, on an issue of this magnitude, this is not good enough,” McLean said.

“We are engaging with New South Wales Parliamentarians from across the political spectrum to make sure they fully understand the situation.

He said AGW was making its own submission along with NSW Wine.

“The NSW Government needs to go back to the drawing board and undertake serious and meaningful consultation with wine makers,” McLean said.

[This scheme] is to reduce litter from the external environment to enable cleaner parks and cleaner roadsides. When you think of wine and spirits, those volumes are actually usually consumed in a home, and therefore they are a larger weight.

Sarah McElholum

Continuously reinventing, never accepting the status quo

Aglobal specialty packaging pioneer, CCL is the largest label company in the world, providing innovative solutions to a wide range of markets. Globally, CCL services customers in the home and personal care, premium food and beverage, healthcare and specialty, automotive and durables and consumer markets. A fierce commitment to providing the highest quality products coupled with superior customer service has led CCL to great success within each of these markets.

CCL Label are wine label specialists, so it comes as no surprise that the business has attracted experts in the print industry from all over the world. From stock selection, embellishment choice and colour matching, to valueengineering projects and sustainable design, CCL Label can offer the full suite of technology. Having a mix of digital, offset and flexographic printing equipment across Australia ensures that CCL customers can source cost-effective commercial scale label runs, right down

to individual personalised bottles, and everything in between. 2022 saw CCL Label have its most successful year to date in the Print Industry Creativity Awards, taking home the National Gold Trophy for Best Offset Printer of the Year – an accolade which is contested by the best printers all over Australia, and one that the team are very proud of.

CCL Label are no strangers to digital printing though. In fact, digital technology forms part of the printing suite in no less than 60 CCL sites worldwide, with the group achieving a milestone of 100 digital presses installed in May 2021. Packaging trends are showing a favourable approach to shorter run sizes, as individuality and personalisation are increasing key drivers in consumer purchasing habits. While scanning codes with our smartphones has become a common part of our culture following the COVID-19 pandemic, there has never been a better time for brand owners to integrate variable data technology into their packaging. The opportunities for immersive customer experiences, and the availability of platforms on which brands can connect to their consumers is at an unprecedented level, and CCL has not only the experience, but also the technology to create the perfect label to tell your brand story.

The supply chain model at CCL Label places an emphasis on agility and speed to market, with each manufacturing site located close to customer production facilities. Through predictive forecasting and responsive production, CCL are always working to drive down lead times and help lower inventory throughout the supply chain, whilst also reducing the effects on the environment by minimising combined carbon footprints through lower transportation and reduced obsolescence.

Backed by a powerful team culture of continuous improvement and environmental change, the team at CCL Label live every day by the words of our company philosophy: continuously reinvent, and never accept the status quo.

The Méthode Range from Patrick of Coonawarra

Wine Industry IMPACT Awards showcase innovation for sustainable change

At a sparkling gala awards dinner held at the Adelaide Oval, the winners of this year’s Wine Industry IMPACT Awards have been announced.

“We have been thrilled with the diversity of entries for segments across the wine sector,” said Shirley Fraser, executive officer of the Wine Industry Supplies Association (WISA) which hosted the event.

“It was a challenging time after COVID, with business in full travel mode, managing restricted workloads. The effort taken by members entering was duly appreciated with emphasis on efficiency and optimising grape and wine production and sales.

“The highlight has been the sustainability focus common throughout many submissions,” Fraser said.

WISA chair Jason Amos said the awards provided an important platform to recognise outstanding innovation.

“The opportunity to showcase projects for how our members have made impact to the sector is a key element of the awards, beyond being a winner or finalist,” he said.

Expert panels

For this year’s IMPACT Awards, four panels of experts from across the industry reviewed submissions.

The first panel, focusing on sustainability, compromised Aubrey Thomas of Green Industries SA, Julian Marchant of Edge Environment, Mardi Longbottom of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia/ AWRI, and Rachel Triggs of Wine Australia.

The second panel, looking at packaging and design/marketing and wine tourism, included Sarah McElholum of Endeavour Drinks Group, Stephanie Duboudin of Wine Victoria, Lynda Schenk of Purple Giraffe, and Roger Dowling of Burge Barossa.

The third panel, with a focus on viticulture/agtech and digital, comprised Dave Gerner of Wine Australia, Daniel Polson of Adama/WISA, Nigel Squires of Nutrien Ag, and Nigel Blieschke of Torbrek Wines.

The fourth panel, focused on engineering and equipment/winemaking and oenology, was made up of Steven Scott of Pernod Ricard Winemakers/WISA, Kenneth Stanton of Stanton & Stanton, Jason Spiteri of Hill Smith Estate, John Kontrec of Accolade and Eric Wilkes of Affinity Labs/AWRI/WISA.

More than 300 wine industry leaders, suppliers, finalists, sponsors, regional representatives, stakeholders and other guests attended the formal awards gala in Adelaide for a chance to network and celebrate prior to the festive season, and vintage 2023, with their teams and peers.

Wine Industry IMPACT Awards 2022 results

Separator Technology Solutions www.sts-la.com

ACJ Engineering www.whitcovinquip.com.au 31

Agnova Technologies Pty Ltd www.agnova.com.au 23,32,37,44

Aussie Wine Group www.aussiewinegroup.com.au 27

Australian Wine Research Institute awri.com.au 76,77,78,79

BHF Technologies www.bhftechnologies.com.au 13

Bio Scout www.bioscout.com.au 91

Braud Australia www.braud.com.au 43

Bürkert www.burkert.com.au 41

CCL Label www.ccllabel.com 89

CHR Hansen www.chr-hansen.com 63

Della Toffola Pacific www.dtpacific.com Back Cover

Fermentis www.fermentis.com 65

Fischer Australia www.fischeraustralis.com.au 11

Fuller Car Detailing see advert page 96

GH Parts www.ghparts.com.au 97

Global Green www.globalgreen.com.au 33

Grapeworks www.grapeworks.com.au 51,53,55,57,59,95

JMA Engineering www.jmaeng.com.au 61

Kendon Chemicals www.kendon.com.au 34

Koch Seperation Solutions kochseperation.com 54

Landini Central www.landinicentral.com.au 39

Ocloc www.ocloc.com.au 9,25

Plastic Precise Parts ppp@tpg.com.au 97,98

Rapidfil www.rapidfil.com.au 62,96

S.O.S (Speedy Over Sticking) www.soslabels.com.au 85

Sumitomo Chemicals www.sumitima-chem.com.au 45

Syngenta www.syngenta.com.au 29

Viniquip www.viniquip.com 2,3

Winequip www.winequip.com.au 67

Wine Industry Services www.wineindustryservices.com.au 87

India’s wine market is growing rapidly from its low base

Thank you to all our advertisers in this issue!

TIM SHAND

How did you get your start in wine?

I spent way too much time in the tav in my first year of an Arts degree and got politely shown the door (I was still mispronouncing Descartes well into 2nd semester). That woke me up, and looking around south-west WA in the early 2000s, I realised that an energised wine industry was gathering speed and it would be great to get on board.

What is the best thing about working in the wine sector?

When people that you meet are genuinely excited to talk about what you do because drinking wine plays a significant role in their own lives. By the end of a long dinner this becomes the worst thing about working in the wine sector. What have been some of the highlights of your career in wine?

No idea how, but I seem to lob into places just at the point where interesting and talented people are taking off in their lives. Kerri Thompson, Mark O’Callaghan, Sue Bell, Anton Van Klopper, Andrew Higgins, Adrian Sparks, Sam Brewer, Steve Flamsteed, Behn Payten and Dave Mackintosh to name a few. To learn from these people then count them as friends trumps any wine show wins. [P.S. Adrian Sparks insisted I put his name in this list as I always forget to credit his amazingness and humility. Hi Adrian.]

What are some characteristics of Australian wine that help it stand out from other countries?

Increasingly, we are getting the balance right between responding to our markets whilst expressing our knowledge and terroir in the wines we make. The evolution of Chardonnay is the best example of that. The (at times quite heated) conversation around customer preference versus winemaking style seems to have landed in a happy place where the customer feels engaged and ‘listened to’, and the winemaker has been challenged but appreciated. The days of being able to say ‘the customer doesn’t get our wines’ are long gone.

How have you been able to explore viticulture throughout your career and across different regions?

I’ve been digging through old G&Ws since 2001 for uni assignments. It’s role now is to refresh my curiosity for things that would otherwise lay dormant in my head. It’s easy to get stuck in the hamster wheel of just keeping the winery doors open. A monthly hit of G&W takes my head out of the weeds (literally and figuratively when you work in an organic vineyard!).

I’ve been fortunate to work in great vineyards around Australia and the world, and they have a commonality in their DNA – there exists a wider business appreciation for the vineyard team and the annual complexity of their challenge, and for their part the vineyard team comprehends how each individual task translates into the broader mission of the business, right up to the point of sale.

What are some of the challenges involved with being a part of the winemaking industry?

It’s tempting to reel off one or all of the buzz words du jour – climate change, China, the health lobby, supply issues, shortages of skilled workers... however the challenges won’t ever stop coming or be truly resolved, so the focus moves inward – incrementally improving the resilience and sustainability of your own business in its place in time.

What would be your advice be to someone just entering the industry?

Move around when you’re young and pre-kids. Northern hemisphere vintages, but also consider working in remoter parts of Australia. That’s where the

opportunities to challenge yourself in meaty roles are. There are only so many latte-sipping inner-north Melbourne winemakers the industry can handle (I can say this as I was one for five years).

What place do alternative varieties have in the Australian wine industry?

Vital, but it is time to move past the term alternative varieties which diminishes the subject. We bet the house on Gamay when I was at Punt Road, thinking it perfectly suited to our site and our market. For us Gamay was a logical progression in the way we liked to grow and make wine in a changing climate. Planting, making and selling Gamay wasn’t outside the box because it was a natural evolution of what we were already doing. There was no alternative but to plant it. Tempranillo and Chenin Blanc are in the same boat at Voyager.

Location: Margaret River Western Australia

Tim Shand on the Grapegrower & Winemaker

Photo: Voyager Estate

Winemaker, Voyager Estate

Event dates may be subject to change or cancellation. Please refer to event websites for updated information. Travel restrictions may also apply.

Australia and New Zealand

10-11 February 2023

Pinot Celebration Australia, RACV Cape Schanck Resort, Mornington Peninsula, VIC www.pinotcelebration.com.au/

International

29 November-1 December 2022

Effervescents du Monde 2022, Burgundy, France www.effervescents-du-monde.com/

1 December 2022 2022 WIN Expo, Sonoma County Fairgrounds, Santa Rosa, California, US www.wineindustryexpo.com/

2-3 December 2022

Alliances du Monde – International Wine & Barrel Com petition, Noirlac Abbey, France www.alliances-du-monde.com/

4-7 December 2022 2022 Vitinord, Burlington, Vermont, USA http://vitinord.org/

19-21 March 2023 ProWein 2023 – Germany, Düsseldorf, Germany www.prowein.com/

See more on the Wine Industry Directory Events calendar at winetitles.com.au/wide

Back issue visit: winetitles.com.au/gwm

looking back

We step back in time to see what was happening through the pages of Grapegrower and Winemaker this month 10, 20 and 30 years ago.

December 2012

Leconfield cleans up at Great Australian Shiraz Challenge

Winning the 2012 Visy Great Australian Shiraz Challenge came as a great surprise to Paul Gordon – not least because the triumphant wine was entered in the under 25 category – giving his 2010 Richard Hamilton McLaren Vale Shiraz a clean sweep of the trophies.

December 2002

Marketing wine to Generation-X consumers through the cellar door

Australian domestic wine sales have entered a period of low growth or relative stagnation that is, unfortunately, likely to continue until at least 2005. The opportunity and challenge in increasing demand in the Australian wine market is to find ways occasional into regular wine consumers.

December 1992

Victoria seen as ‘key component’ in export bid

The new Victorian coalition government is looking to the State’s burgeoning wine industry to help it out of the recession. In successive addresses to business groups, the Deputy Premer, Pat McNamara, has said Victoria would be a key component in Australia’s bid to lift its wine exports from a quarter of a billion dollars to $1 billion by 2000.

Did you know that your digital subscription to the Grapegrower & Winemaker allows access to archived digital copies of the magazine dating all the way back to 2005?

To download the back issues visit: winetitles.com.au/gwm

1945, fully restored full louvred van, no:4724, DWF class railway carriage. Built in Islington South Australia between December 1944 - February 1955. Of the 550 carriages built only a handful remain - primarily in museums. This carriage has been painstakingly refurbished.

Built with a solid steel frame and surrounded by superbly maintained coachwood and European large doors and window frames. This 6.96 metre (22.10ft) long carriage is nothing short of exquisite. With its high domed wooden ceiling, stunning floorboards and magnificent 1930s LED light, with added gold chloride, making it not only the most expensive and rarest colour but truly spectacular.

Its uses are endless, but certainly ideal for wineries, home entertainment/ office or to convert into a tiny home or Airbnb.