• Haircut: Consider your client’s haircut. Cut and colour are meant to work in harmony with one another. Neither is meant to overpower.
03 ADVISE
• Suggest: Give options for colour changes or variations relevant to the information you have gathered. • Explain: Educate your guest on why you recommend the colour and or techniques that you have suggested. • Ideas: Create a future plan. Where could we go from here? FACE FRAMING
04 SUMMARISE
• Check: Reiterate the chosen colour with your client. • Feedback: Encourage questions from your client. • Confirm: Share your knowledge. Let the client know what you suggest they use for home maintenance.
CASE STUDY
EMMA • Long thick hair • Warm skin tone • Strong jawline • Standout eyes and lips • Natural beauty • Low maintenance
MY THOUGHTS
• I need to lighten and brighten this up to make those eyes pop. • If I ‘blonde this all up’ and make it one colour, because it’s so long and thick, her hair is going to consume her. • She has a stunning natural colour, so lets’ work with it to create depth and dimension. • Use that natural hair colour to draw attention to her eyes and then use lighter brighter pieces to make those eyes pop. • By using her natural hair, it will create a low maintenance natural beauty.
TECHNIQUE: FACE FRAMING BABY-LIGHTS
- Take a baby fine, diagonal section on the very front face hairline. - Follow this diagonal section back until just past the ear. - When you reach the top partline of the hair, pivot your foils back and place them just under the partline. The amount of foils you put in will be a visual decision depending on the desired result. - Continue this technique on the other side of the head with the ultimate goal of achieving symmetry. - Once you have face framed the front of the hair, move to the back hairline, taking baby fine sections on the diagonal and working up the hair until the foils meet with the previous line of the front face framing.
FREEHAND BALAYAGE
- Now that the face framing is done, it’s time to freehand balayage the remaining hair. - Starting at the front and continuing to work diagonally back, balayage out all the ends, making sure to alternate depth. This includes the hair that’s been left out between the foils. These pieces all get coloured to highlight stronger colour around the face. - I do everything on a diagonal, so the hair colour falls more naturally and seamlessly. NO LINES HERE! - Through the back, split the hair into 3 horizontal sections by using a zig zag line. - Using the point of each zig zag as your section guide, take diagonal sections and balayage your way along each section, again, visually alternating depth. On one section, the colour is taken up higher, and the next section is lower, then repeat. - By using a zig zag line instead of a straight line, the section automatically has varied high and low points for seamless balayage.
FREEHAND BALAYAGE
ZONE TONE
- After the colour has been rinsed, split the hair into 2 sections. The hairline section is section 1, and the remaining hair is section 2 - There are so many techniques that you can include in this process, like a root stretch for example, but for this colour I chose to use 2 different toners as her hair is already a beautiful, natural colour so I worked with that. - I wanted to keep the first section as lightest part of the colour. Here, I’ve used Wella Colour Touch 10/6 roots to ends, and then for the remaining hair, I’ve used Colour Touch 9/97. The reason I did two different level toners is that I wanted the colour around the face to be the brightest and really pop and then I wanted to the rest of the hair to be a soft, deeper shade. - This is such an on-trend technique and such a simple way to personalise any of your colours.
Kristie Kesic is an educator and also the owner of Cobelle Creative, Brisbane
FREEHAND BALAYAGE
ZONE TONE
Hair Biz Year 13 Issue 6
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