Seville
THE CITY OF ANDALUCIA In an age when clashing cultures and countless conflicts grab our attention, one needs an escape to someplace magical, where luxury, excess and diversity co-exist. Where? First and always, Seville.
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In this adopted city where Catholics, Jews and Muslims have lived together for nearly eight centuries – since the “Reconquista” of 1248 – traces of the past live on. Though the Star of David may be hidden from the eyes of today’s tourists, when cathedral bells ring out from inside what was once an ancient minaret, one’s heart cannot help but flutter at the thought…of Seville. Take your time, wander through the neighbourhood that was once Jews’ favorite place until the 15th century , Santa Cruz; lose yourself among the Renaissance paintings and giant pillars soaring towards eternity in one of the grandest cathedrals in the world. The Maria Luisa park still shelters buildings from the World’s Fair of 1929. Cross the bridge that spans the Guadalquivir River and the phantoms of Flamenco will greet you. It is here, in fact, that the gypsies of the Triana quarter come at nightfall with tapas and guitars to celebrate with the unspoiled Flamenco strains of cante jondo, and dance the whirling Xeres. “Fortune telling is for hot peppers and sweet wine,” said Aragon. Orange trees, by the thousands, blossom from the very sidewalks of Seville, red flowers bloom at every window, and behind every door – even the most unassuming – exquisite gardens are waiting to be discovered. If one has the good fortune, come to Seville for two inescapable events, one religious, another secular. First, there is Holy Week, when persons of faith parade through the streets of Seville bearing statutes of Christ and the Virgin, descended from their thrones in Seville’s churches for one day of exceptional duty on Good Friday. And then there is the Feria from April 16 to 21. It begins in serious battle between bulls and bullfighters in the Arena, soon spilling out like a party onto the nearby river banks and beyond. To live like a prince in this noble city, retreat to the Palacio de Villapanès, an 18th century residence transformed into a luxury hotel by the Alma Company. When you’ve had enough of the sights and sounds and craziness that is Seville, you will find here the peace of two delightful patios, a fountain enshrined with murmuring waters. And, have we mentioned the monumental staircase, secular columns, ceramic walls, wooden doors, suites and bedrooms where teak and white marble bathtubs meet in perfect harmony, a computer is at your finger tips, as is a regenerative spa, 24-hour room service and a terrace with your own private little pool from which to contemplate the city? From Villapanès, you have only a few steps to discover the wonders of Old Seville. But here, one breathes a little bit above it all, a little more peacefully, a little more full of life.