The Cellar Door Issue 51: Summer Rosés

Cellar Door the

Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants

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Wave

Paul Mas Claude Val Rosé France | Languedoc Roussillon

Images by New Copper Photography

Features

Seriously Pink Possibilities

Sylvia Jansen explores the history and trends of our favourite summer indulgence: rosé.

The Rosés of Summer

Jill Kwiatkoski introduces the wines of summer 2025.

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a message from tina jones

This has been a crazy year in wine so far! People in hospitality, wine, and drinks have been scrambling to cope with ever-changing rules. We have been grateful for our customers’ support, even when 20% of the wines on our shelves disappeared overnight. Right now, a glass of beautiful rosé on a sunny deck feels like an oasis of calm.

I love that the rosé landscape has grown so beautifully in the past decade. We have gone from a time when White Zinfandel seemed to be everywhere to the current period, when you can get dry and elegant rosés from everywhere. Sylvia’s feature tells the story of the amazing diversity of these wines, and her column dives further into rosé’s history. Jill introduces you to some of our new summer rosés—which are chosen from the dozens of rosés reviewed by our buying team in the last year.

Also in this issue, Mike and Ricki-Lee speak to a Canadian winemaker and wine journalist about the current state of BC wines, and Mike examines how Canadian wines fit into the Manitoba market. RickiLee offers our readers a set of interesting alternatives to some standard American options and unravels a few myths about wine. Gary— our resident science enthusiast—delves into the importance of light protection in how you store your wine.

All in all, this issue is packed with great summer reading that will help you navigate our current wine landscape—with a special focus on our freshest summer rosés.

Thanks for joining our rosé party!

Tina Jones

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Cellar Door the

@thecellardoormag

Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com

Editorial Board

Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Ricki-Lee Podolecki

Graphic Design Garfield Street Media info@garfieldstreet.ca

Contributors

Todd Antonation, Andrée-Anne Boisvert, Noah Cantafio, Mindy Friess, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Liz Kaye, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Sasha Kulachenko, Ian McCausland, Katie Muirhead, Mike Muirhead, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Malcolm Roberts, Dylan Watkins, Rick Watkins

Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc

www.poisepublications.com

For advertising information, email lisa@poisepublications or visit poisepublications.com/the-cellar-door.

In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.

1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463

JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants

© 2025 Poise Publications Inc.

what we’re drinking

Gary Hewitt: Tavignano 2023 Barbarossa Lacrina di Morro d’Alba Marche, Italy ($29.99)

Dylan Watkins: Deep Roots 2023 Rivaner Rheinhessen, Germany ($21.99)

Liz Kaye: Vega Tolosa 2022 11 Pinos Bobal Manchuela, Spain ($18.99)

Mike Muirhead: Vinçonnière 2022 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, France ($19.99)

Malcolm Roberts: Tonello 2019 io Teti Metodo Classico Lissini Durello, Italy ($44.99)

Noah Cantafio: Tedeschi 2019 Corasco Rosso Veneto, Italy ($34.99)

Mindy Friess: Pago Casa Gran 2024 Falcata Rosé Valencia, Spain ($22.99)

Rick Watkins: Briar Ridge 2024 Albarino Hunter Valley, Australia ($35.99)

Todd Antonation: Benazzoli 2023 Dafne Bardolino, Italy ($22.99)

Ricki-Lee Podolecki: A.A. Badenhorst 2022 Secateurs Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($32.99)

Jill Kwiatkoski: Figuière 2024 Méditerranée Blanc Provence, France ($27.99)

Sylvia Jansen: Il Palazzo 2023 La Curia Rosato Tuscany, Italy ($21.99)

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Figuière Famille Combard

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

Family-run business is where our heart and soul live. I grew up watching my grandfather, parents, and uncle pour their hard work, determination, and commitment into running our hardware and lumberyard businesses. Joining the Jones & Company family was a natural extension of that upbringing. As the lead buyer, I am in touch with small, family-run wineries worldwide every day. I know firsthand what family business entails, and bringing you their stories is one of our great pleasures.

The Figuière Famille Combard winery starts with a love story. In the 1950s, a man from Provence, Alain Combard, went to Burgundy to pursue his agronomy and oenology studies. Meanwhile, Gabrielle, also from Provence, was in Burgundy to pursue her teaching career. The two met, fell in love, and were married. While Alain pursued his studies and Gabrielle taught, they also ran a dairy farm, learning how to work the land, which contributed to Alain’s studies and future vineyard knowledge.

In addition to winemaking, Alain was an adventurer and an avid aviator. At a local flying club in Burgundy, he met Michel Laroche. In addition to their mutual interest in planes, both had backgrounds in oenology. In the early 1970s, they created Domaine Laroche in Chablis, Burgundy. By the early 1990s, Domaine Laroche was a huge success. At the height of this success, Alain sold his shares, and he and Gabrielle moved their family back to their roots in Provence.

In June of 1992, Alain and Gabrielle bought the Figuière winery, named for the bountiful fig trees on the property. In the 1990s, Provence was mostly a bulk wine-producing region, but Alain’s love of Chablis inspired him to make something new—a crisp Provence white wine. Alain’s notoriety at Domaine Laroche followed him to Provence. According to his daughter, Magali, “Journalists supported my Dad by amplifying his story about making great white wine in Provence.” Alain also predicted the rosé trend that would start about a decade later, believing that Provence rosés were equally as important as the whites.

His three children now carry on Alain’s legacy. “It was my father’s dream to pass the winery on to his children,” shares

Magali. François is in charge of the vineyard and winemaking side of the business; Delphine is the project manager and oversees accounting; and Magali is the spokesperson and is in charge of export sales, bringing Figuière wines to the world. Their father’s passion lives on in them!

If you’re planning a trip to Provence, stay at Figuière’s gorgeous Provencal villa, Bastide Barbeiranne, which is managed by the youngest sister, Valérie. You can enjoy the beauty and serenity of the area by embracing their villa’s motto: “Simply take the time to breathe.” Contact the winery to book well in advance for their many different guided walking and biking tours and tasting workshops or to have a picnic lunch in the vineyard. While you are there, make a reservation at their beautiful restaurant, L’Assiette (which is, of course, run by their first cousin, Chef Sebastian).

La famille: Magali, Delphine, and François (courtesy of Figuière Famille Combard)

Available exclusively at Jones & Co: Première Rosé ($42.99), Méditerranée Blanc ($27.99), Méditerranée Rosé ($27.99), and Atmosphère Méthode Traditionnelle Extra Brut Rosé ($46.99)

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Seriously Pink Possibilities

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

In a world where loud voices and big events dominate, there is something quietly subtle and lovely about good rosé wine. The cool freshness, quiet tones, and gentleness of a glass of rosé have become synonymous with slowing the pace and enjoying each other’s company.

Rosé can showcase elements of other fine wines but can be tricky to produce well. It can have juicy, bright fruit,

sometimes with an edge of floral or mineral tones, in a dry frame with balanced acidity, often a slight textural complexity, and a finish that awakens the palate. There could scarcely be a more suitable wine for summer. A good rosé might be almost colourless or might be nearly red, and a multitude of flavours are possible. Only rarely does oak enter the scene, and its food friendliness almost always increases our pleasure.

How Rosé Is Made

Good rosé begins with good red grapes in the vineyard. In the south of France, traditional vineyards with Grenache (and a host of other red grapes) offer the right balance of ripeness, acidity, and character. From other parts of France and the world, rosés reflect the local mix of red varieties. In the winery, techniques favour methods that preserve fruit and aromatic quality but do not extract too much colour or tannins from the grape skins. Four methods predominate:

Skin contact (less sexy than it sounds): Most rosé is made by crushing fresh red grapes and steeping the grape skins in the liberated juice for as little as a few hours or as much as a couple of days, depending on the variety, depth of colour, and desired style. Winemakers sometimes crush the grapes and soak the skins in the juice before fermentation to bring out more aromatic compounds. The coloured juice is then separated from grape skins and other solids, and winemaking continues as though for white wine.

Saignée (less brutal than it sounds): Saignée is a French term meaning “bled,” where rosé is made by running off, or “bleeding,” an amount of pink juice from crushed red grapes before fermentation begins. This separation could be done to produce a light rosé or to concentrate the remaining juice (producing a more intense red wine). In some cases, producers will have two results: a bigger red and a separate rosé, nicely making use of both.

Direct pressing (less straightforward than it sounds): Winemakers can also press red grapes directly, stopping the press when the juice is at a desired colour and flavour level. Some producers believe that direct pressing offers a more delicate rosé.

Blending (less common than we might think): Generally, it is not allowed to blend white and red wines to produce rosé, except notably in Champagne, where this method long pre-dated current regulations.

Trending

Rosé has become far more than a simple refreshing thirstquencher. Don Krsinar, a Canadian working for the wine export negociant Maison Pion in France (and our connection to some fine wine families), explains that “it used to be just a summertime BBQ wine, but in the last 30 years, the quality has vastly increased. We now see rosés with complexity that are a real complement to a meal.”

The Jones & Company buying team also reports that rosé has become an important category, with many premium quality options. “Ten years ago, it was a few inexpensive southern France and northern Spain rosés with the odd White Zinfandel, and now we have a feature wall with more than 60 rosé wines from around the world,” says Jill Kwiatkoski, Director of Purchasing. Classic Tavel, Provence, and Spanish rosés are prominent, but a dozen more countries, including Chile and Germany, are now showcased.

and Spanish

French

rosés: Paul Mas 2024 Claude Val Rosé Languedoc, France ($17.99); Figuière 2024 Méditeranée Rosé Provence, France ($27.99); Domaine Lafond 2022 Roc-Épine Tavel, France ($34.99); Martín Berdugo 2023 Rosado Ribera del Duero, Spain ($22.99); Medrano Irazu 2023 Choza Crianza Rosado Rioja, Spain ($17.99)

Where Rosé?

When we think of rosé internationally, the stylish Mediterranean seaside towns of Provence often spring to mind. In fact, France is the world’s largest rosé producer, and Provence accounts for almost half of its contribution. Elsewhere in France, quality rosé is produced widely; for example, Tavel, which produces only rosé in a unique, structured style.

Spain’s volume of production is second only to France. The Spanish love pink, usually calling them rosado, occasionally clarete, and sometimes rosé. As in France, the Spanish taste is for dry wines.

Italy’s rosato wines, once a small sideline, have grown in popularity as well, drawing from the broad palette of grape varieties in the country. Chiaretto is another Italian term for rosato, particularly from around Lake Garda in the north.

Everywhere else, rosés are growing more popular, including dry, still wines; elegant pink sparkling; fizzy, sweet pink Moscatos; and every shade and style available. The global wine stage is decidedly in the pink.

from around

world:

2023 Tecla Chiaretto Bardolino Superiore, Italy

Il Palazzo 2023 La Curia Rosato, Toscana, Italy ($21.99); Berto & Fiorella 2022 Rosato Venezia Giulia, Italy ($23.99); Ventisquero 2023 Tantehue Rosé Central Valley, Chile ($14.99); Bacalhôa 2023 JP Azeitâo Rosé Syrah Setúbal, Portugal ($17.99)

PINK BUBBLES

The best rosé Champagnes use regional red varieties, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, to add red fruit character and structure to Champagne’s classic depth. The usual practice is to add a small amount of red wine to the blend before the all-important second fermentation in bottle, but some producers elect to use saignée and begin the entire process with a rosé. Devotees of rosé Champagnes are generally more willing to pay the premium for pink wines. Rosé Champagne has grown from about 2% to about 10% of total production in the past 20 years. Rosé Crémant (traditional method sparkling from other regions in France), Spanish Rosé Cava, and sparkling rosés from around the world also offer a range of styles.

Italian Prosecco Rosé was launched with the 2020 vintage, offering a new version of the international darling. A small amount of Pinot Nero/Noir wine is allowed for colour and character. Its growth in popularity far surpasses the growth of any other rosé category.

Pink bubbles: Marteaux Guillaume nv Brut Rosé Excellence Champagne, France ($78.99); Zinck nv Rosé Crémant d’Alsace, France ($37.99); Giusti 2023 Rosalia Prosecco Rosé Veneto, Italy ($23.99); Lubanzi nv Sparkling Rosé Western Cape, South Africa ($23.99); Raventos Rosell nv Cava Rosé Penedes, Spain ($25.99); Blue Mountain 2019 Sparkling Rosé Okanagan, Canada ($54.99)

Rosés

the

Benazzoli

($23.99);

Photo courtesy of Blue Mountain Winery

Contact

Giselle Pieczonka

Relationship Manager, Cash Management

Giselle.Pieczonka@cwbank.com

t. 204.926.1531

Kristina Nordquist

Relationship Manager, Prestige Banking

Kristina.Nordquist@cwbank.com

t. 204.926.1541

The Rosés of Summer

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)

Summer is finally here, ushering in our favourite time of year: another amazing rosé season! I am once again honoured to showcase some of our brand-new selections on the rosé wall here at Jones & Co. We hope you will find some new favourites this season and enjoy the summer with rosé in your glass.

Our rosé collection has grown over the years: we now carry 60 wines on that wall! It takes a long time for wine to travel to Canada—and then to the middle of the country—so

planning takes months. At our annual Rosé Forum every October, our buying team can taste up to 100 rosés from around the globe. Not all of them make the cut: on average, we choose less than a fifth of what we taste. A lot of work goes into sourcing new wines and finding fun, new rosés that our team is excited to share with our customers.

Here are six brand new rosés arriving at Jones & Co. this season that we can’t wait for you to enjoy this summer.

Aragonesas 2024 Crucillón Rosado Campo de Borja, Spain ($14.99)

The first new rosé to arrive this season, Crucillón Rosado is 100% Garnacha. It features crisp, bright notes of raspberry and a hint of violet. This perfect little summer sipper is lovely on its own or paired with fresh salads, grilled chicken skewers, or grilled smokies.

Famille Perrin 2024 Rosé Ventoux, France ($19.99)

The Famille Perrin rosé is a soft, light, and easy-drinking rosé with a beautiful light baby pink hue. This top-quality Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah blend is quite elegant. You truly can’t beat the range of wines at this price point and level of quality (we also carry their Blanc and Rouge). Enjoy this while lounging by the pool or pair it with lighter summery dishes, such as grilled shrimp or fish with lemon, salads with fruit and a vinaigrette, or grilled flatbread with fresh veggies.

Olivier Coste 2024 Bisou Rosé Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($22.99)

Not only is this Bisou rosé going to make you look twice—you’re going to want to pick it up and buy it! This bright kiss of pink is produced by outstanding winemaker Olivier Coste, owner of Domaine Montrose. Bisou rosé is 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault produced organically with biodiversity preservation. According to Coste, “The best way to enjoy our wines: invite friends, open a bottle and enjoy the moment. Bisou captures the warmth and elegance of life’s sweetest moments. Light, fruity, and refreshing, it’s made to share and savour—just like a kiss.”

Pinuaga 2024 Rosé Castilla-La Mancha, Spain ($23.99)

It has been a couple of years since this hot pink lady graced our shelves, so I wanted to scream from the pages of The Cellar Door: our beloved Pinuaga rosé is baaaack! We love Pinuaga wines for their outstanding quality: they are organically produced, hand-harvested, and hand-sorted. Women winemakers Esther Pinuaga and Pilar Garcia Granero produce award-winning, top-level wines that celebrate the land and their magnificent Spanish culture. These minimal-intervention wines are a blend of 85% Cencibel (an old clone of Tempranillo) and 15% Garnacha that will knock your socks off with its bright acidity, gorgeous notes of raspberry, and hints of floral. We have a limited quantity, so get it while it lasts!

Château Gilbert & Gaillard 2024 Le Rosé Languedoc, France ($25.99)

Le Rosé is another elegant, soft, and fruity southern France rosé. A blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache, this salmon pink rosé has notes of tart cranberry, orange blossom, and red apple, with a clean, mineral finish. This organic wine is hand-picked, handsorted, and bottled with great care. Sip on its own or pair it with grilled fish or chicken, vegetables, and light appetizers with cheese.

Look for the Jones & Co.’s Rosé Wall for our full selection—but make sure you check our “New Arrivals” as well, just in case! As always, you can also find a selection of cold bottles in our fridge that are ready to serve.

WINNER OF THE SEASON: PAGO CASA GRAN 2024 FALCATA ROSÉ VALENCIA, SPAIN ($22.99)

Our top pick for the summer of 2025: Pago Casa Gran is family owned and operated; focuses on organic viticulture, sustainability, and biodiversity; and produces clean wines with minimal intervention. This Falcata rosé is an absolutely gorgeous blend of Syrah and Garnacha with an orangey/pink hue and subtle floral notes, alongside hints of orange blossom and crunchy red fruit. It is simply elegant and truly something different. Pago Casa Gran’s Falcata line is young yet complex, gentle yet robust, with lively acidity and a long finish. It is a fantastic rosé to sip on its own, but if you’re in the mood to cook, try it with some Spanish tapas, grilled seafood, or Paella Valenciana.

Euphorbia: Green from the Inside Out

“It’s a symbiotic relationship.”

Felix Gaber is talking about what plants bring to his life, but he might as well be talking about his entire philosophy at Euphorbia, a local business with over 40 years of experience in commercial and residential tropical interior plantscaping.

Felix’s father, Byron Gaber, worked for years in greenhouses before establishing Euphorbia in 1981. His philosophy was to work tirelessly to provide quality plant maintenance services to his residential customers. Felix grew up in the business, starting when he was 16, and took over as president in 2015 when his father retired. He has continued his father’s legacy of personalized service. “When clients call, they’re going to talk to me,” says Felix. “They know that whatever work gets done, I’m the one who oversees it and makes sure it gets done properly.”

Euphorbia’s keen ability to home in on clients’ needs has built up the kind of client base that companies dream of. In fact, some have been with the company for over 40 years. Second-generation clients have even “inherited” their services. “When our long-term clients have downsized and sold their homes,” shared Felix, “they have these incredible tropical plants that have been a part of their homes for years. So their kids get the plants in their homes, and we move with the plants.”

Over the past decade, Felix has expanded Euphorbia from a primarily residential plantscaping and maintenance business to services that also include commercial plant installation and maintenance (now making up about 70% of the clientele), seasonal outdoor displays, tropical plant rental services, plant doctor calls, and landscaping.

A client relationship with Felix starts with a phone call. “New clients usually say, ‘I have plants, but they’re not doing well. Can you come help me?’ Or, ‘I don’t have plants, but I’d like to have some, and I’d like them to look great.’” Felix will visit the site—either residential or commercial—and assess the space’s current plant status. If you have plants, he may recommend a change of plants or a change of location, or even diagnose an insect problem or blight. If you don’t, he will evaluate the space, the lighting, and your vision and offer suggestions about what will thrive and survive in your space.

“I want clients to have beautiful plants that give them what they want—the joy of having something grow for them. Once we have found the right plants for the client, we offer weekly maintenance to make sure they always look good. If, for some reason, they start not looking good, we replace them as part of the contract.”

Felix’s passion for bringing nature indoors has brought him into some exciting new creative projects. “I did my first moss art piece 8 years ago. I saw that as potential for clients who want to bring nature indoors but don’t have the space or

Euphorbia owner Felix Gaber (photos by Ian McCausland)

the light to make that happen. Clients love that it’s a zeromaintenance option. Once we install it, it’s like hanging a piece of artwork. You just put it up and then enjoy it.”

Inspired by this philosophy, Felix and his team have recently been working on natural artwork installations. “These pieces are still highly designed, but they feel natural. We use pieces of birch trunks, rocks, and flowers to create installations that are very unique to the Manitoba experience of being outdoors. It feels like you’re walking in the Whiteshell. The beauty of these pieces is that we can custom design them to fit whatever space the client desires and make them any shape. We have done circles, rectangles, and squares. We can fill an entire wall or do a combination of pieces. It’s an incredible outlet for our artistic sides.”

For Felix and his team, building long-term relationships and tending plants over time to watch them grow and flourish in people’s homes and workspaces is enhanced by the opportunity to flex their creative muscles through natural art installations and seasonal and special event displays.

Ultimately, when Felix describes working with plants, he could just as well be speaking about his clients and his whole philosophy: “They’re providing for me, and I’m providing for them. I’m trying to make them happy, and if I do, then everyone gets to enjoy beautiful, healthy plants.”

Visit Felix’s showroom at 543 St. Mary’s to view new and innovative products in the interior-scaping world. euphorbia.plants@gmail.com | 204.233.1139 | Euphorbia.ca

HOW CAN WE HELP?

Plant Doctor: Are your tropical plants looking sick, blighted, or just generally sad? Our plant experts will evaluate your tropical plants and advise you on how to make them flourish.

Commercial and Residential Interior Plants: We professionally design, install, and maintain creative plant projects of all sizes in residential homes and commercial spaces.

Custom Moss Art: Our Moss Art installations fit any dimensions and bring nature indoors for a natural, zero-maintenance display.

Seasonal Displays and Rental Services: Our creative seasonal displays celebrate summer, fall, spring, and winter in homes and commercial spaces. Or, if you have a one-time occasion, we can design a unique tropical display to elevate your event.

Wine Myths and Mistakes

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET

Have you ever played a game of telephone? You whisper a sentence into someone’s ear, who whispers it into the next person’s ear and so on until the final person announces what they heard, and the message has become completely obscured. Now, imagine doing that for centuries while consuming an intoxicant. This is how and why we end up with misinformation about one of humanity’s oldest indulgences. Luckily, we wine experts are here to clear up some of the misinformation that has dogged this beverage for centuries.

Great legs are for the runway

Wine viscosity, mostly due to alcohol and/or sugar content, allows wine to cling to the sides of the glass, and as the wine falls back to the wine surface, legs form, thanks to evaporation and gravity. While you are free to admire the great “legs” on a wine, be advised that it actually reveals little about the quality of the wine.

A fault in our glasses

When you get a sample of wine in a restaurant, it’s not because they want to know if you like the wine. It is for you to see if the wine has any faults, such as cork taint or lightstrike (see Gary Hewitt’s article on page 34).

Headaches and heartbreak— is it the sulphites?

Have you been blaming your post-wine headaches on sulphites? Sorry to break some hearts, but it probably has more to do with how much you indulged. Alcohol, sugar, and a lack of hydration have been proven to create the nogginthrobbin. In fact, dried fruit and baked goods contain more sulphites than wine!

Do you live in a medieval castle?

Serving your red wine at room temperature should only be done in medieval castles where room temperature hovers between 12°C and 18°C. Now that we live in modern times, your home will likely be around 20°C–25°C. Throw that red wine in the fridge for 10 minutes before serving it.

Chardon-naw

Did you have a bottle of buttered-up vanilla Chardonnay back in the ’80s that has haunted you ever since (kind of like that hair choice you made)?

Just like hairstyles, wine styles change. Chardonnay comes in many styles, from bubbles (Champagne) to unoaked bright and citrusy Chablis to rich and round. Let us prove to you that there is a style for everyone.

Not all get wiser with age

There’s aging, and then there’s aging “like a fine wine.” Some wines get better with age—but most do not! Fine wines contain a balance of essential elements: good acidity, concentration of flavour, and, for reds, well-structured tannins (I recommend something like Quadrus 2017 Tinto Quadrus from Portugal [$38.99]). If you were gifted a bottle of $10 Pinot Grigio, go ahead and open it up tonight!

Some wines require CPR, and some don’t

Older vintages or very young, full-bodied wines require air to “open up.” This frees aromatic compounds by eliminating off-putting elements such as sulphur and softens tannins. If you are opening, say, the Brancaia 2022 Tre Rosso from Tuscany ($37.99), use your favourite decanter—or just give it a good swirl in the glass—to introduce some oxygen back into the wine.

Screw it

Popping a cork can be satisfying—but so can the crack of a cap. Just because a wine has a twist top doesn’t make it less sophisticated (the Australian Moss Wood 2019 Ribbon Vale Merlot from Margaret River, for example [$79.99]). Twist tops are excellent for preserving freshness in age-worthy whites or reds. And you’ll never get stuck without a corkscrew!

Here for the right Riesling

If you avoid Riesling because you don’t like sweet wines, do I have news for you! Riesling comes in both dry and sweet styles. A great way to gauge sweetness is by the alcohol percentage on the back. The lower the alcohol (8%–10%), the sweeter it is; choose 11–13% for a dry bottle, like Lingenfelder’s 2023 Bird Label Riesling from Pfalz, Germany ($25.99).

A dry sense of humour

Calling a wine “dry” refers to its lack of sweetness— but that doesn’t mean it is sugar-free. A dry-tasting wine can contain up to 8 grams of sugar per litre, but might be even higher, depending on how it is made. Wineries have become more open with technical notes, so if you are looking for a low-sugar wine, ask one of our wine experts to help you.

CORNER

Photo by Ian McCausland

The Dark Side of Light

By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier

Imagine something so damaging it can ruin a bottle of wine with only one hour of exposure. And now imagine it is everywhere! “Lightstrike”—which can occur when wines are exposed to light—is one of the most common but least-discussed threats to the integrity of your wine.

First, the science of lightstrike: Short wavelength light in the blue and ultraviolet range, common in fluorescent lighting and sunlight, has the most impact on unprotected bottles of wine. These short wavelengths activate the B-vitamin riboflavin and photo-oxidize the sulphurcontaining amino acid methionine, both of which are naturally present in wines. At low exposures, fresh fruit aromas and flavours become dull, but high exposures can cause stinky sulphur compounds reminiscent of wet wool, rotten eggs, or cooked cabbage. Yum. A second reaction involving wine’s dominant natural acid— tartaric acid—creates hydrogen peroxide that also bleaches wines so that they appear less bright and more yellow or brown. For some wines, exposure for as little as one hour to the wrong kind of light causes damage. The effect is irreversible.

Some experts suggest that lightstrike may be the greatest source of off-odours in wines, yet it remains obscure. Sparkling wines, rosé wines, and white wines, especially fresh, delicate styles, are most affected. Red wines are somewhat protected by their pigments and tannin. So, what can be done by producers, retailers, restaurateurs, and wine lovers to minimize lightstrike?

The colour of glass used when bottling wine is of utmost importance. Amber or brown glass prevents over 90% of light’s harmful rays from reaching a wine. Green bottles block 50% to 90%. Clear glass bottles block only 10%! However, consumers don’t like sparkling wines in brown bottles, and they demand rosé wines in clear bottles in order to see their rosy hues. Such marketing decisions are unlikely to change. The cellar master at Champagne Ruinart, Frédéric Panaïotis, has been quoted as saying, “If I could switch to black glass tomorrow, I would.”

Champagne producers often go the extra step by using protective bottle wraps, opaque bottles, or boxes. The beautiful packaging is not simply marketing: it is about protecting precious wines from lightstrike. One innovation at Champagne Ruinart is an attractive, recyclable “second skin” that fits snugly over their iconic clear bottles of Blanc de Blancs Champagne—the skin is removed just before serving.

Rosé producers are typically more cavalier, as marketing trumps quality control in their corner of the market. Clear glass is universal, despite the possibility that wines might lie in brightly lit displays in supermarkets, wine stores, or restaurants. Consider, too, that rosé wines are favoured outdoors in sunny, warm weather, and the impact of lightstrike can be compounded. Caveat emptor!

Retailers can follow some of the same precautions as winemakers, but our market’s self-serve approach to wine retailing means that wines must be put on display. Therefore, lighting should be carefully selected (e.g., many LED lights do not emit UV), and wines should not be under direct lighting. At Jones & Co., lighting was carefully chosen to eliminate UV and installed to minimize lightstrike. In addition, wines remain in their boxes in a temperature-controlled environment prior to stocking the retail shelves.

In general, when you are purchasing wine, pay attention to how a restaurant or store displays its wines, especially those most sensitive to lightstrike. Avoid wines under bright lights that feel warm to the touch or appear to have been on the shelf for a long time. In stores, bypass the display bottle to choose a bottle from lower in the stack or from the back of the shelf. And, if you are transporting bottles home, protect them from heat and light. When you get home, store your wines in your closest approximation of a cave (somewhere dark, cool, vibration free, and moderately humid). If you cannot store bottles away from light, consider putting an opaque wrap (e.g., paper bag, tin foil) around individual clear glass bottles.

Once you are aware of lightstrike, you can see its effect on how other products are packaged. Beer, milk, and olive oil also need protection: keep your milk in its carton, your Corona beer in its box, and your olive oil in dark glass or a tin. However, because we taste first with our eyes, clear glass wine bottles will likely remain. So keep in mind the dark side of light and reach beyond the display bottle for one in the shade.

Celebrate Summer with WOW

WOW Hospitality has the most beautiful patios in the city. Seek serenity river-side at 529 or overlooking the Kildonan Park pond at Prairie’s Edge; dine in the heart of the Exchange at Peasant Cookery; or find a fresh new oasis for Bluestone Cottage’s breakfast and Alena Rustic Italian in Charleswood. WOW Catering’s full-service team brings the WOW to your events and celebrations.

Visit WOW’s newest concept: The menu at Uptown by 529 features, among other contemporary creations, the instantly iconic Wagyu Pastrami Sandwich, an elevated wine list, and eclectic cocktails. Enjoy our free valet parking at Portage and Main for a stress-free experience.

Prairie’s Edge

Alena Rustic Kitchen

Peasant Cookery

529 Wellington

WOW Catering

Bluestone Cottage Bakery & Café

Executive Chef Darnell Banman Le Resto at Thermea Spa Village

Photos by Ian McCausland

How does one go from a small-town upbringing in Winkler, Manitoba, to winning the Gold Medal in a prestigious international black box competition? For Le Resto’s Executive Chef Darnell Banman, it was a mix of being a hard worker, a keen study, and having incredible mentors. After finishing his Red Seal in Red River College’s Culinary Arts program, Chef Darnell started his career at the St. Charles Country Club under the tutelage of one of Canada’s most respected chefs, Takashi Murakami. Under Chef Murakami, Darnell trained in the fundamentals of cooking. He was also encouraged to enter cooking competitions with Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and Skills Manitoba to hone his skills. It was at the Chaîne’s 43rd Concours International des Jeunes Chefs where Darnell won the Gold Medal and Arthur Bolli Memorial Trophy and was invited to train at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. Darnell returned from Paris to the kitchen at the Squash Club before joining the team at Thermea Spa Village in 2021.

What is your vision for Le Resto at Thermea Spa Village?

Our main throughline in the menu planning is that we have to be able to source our ingredients as close to home as possible. All of our proteins are from Manitoba and Canada—nothing can come from the States or overseas. This rule challenges us to create outside the box. We stress local, knowing our craft, familiarity, and making food from scratch: we’re brining and curing our fresh ingredients all summer. In the winter, we look for Manitoba ingredients like wild rice and Arctic char from up north.

What is your secret ingredient?

For most of the year, it has to be the potato. It is an underutilized ingredient, and people don’t realize all the things that you can build with it. When it comes to creating any element of a dish—from a garnish to a component to the whole dish itself—I always think: potato.

If you could cook anywhere in the world, where would you cook?

If I could stage anywhere, it would be Japan. When I worked at St. Charles, my chef was Japanese and introduced me to the food and the culture. So, it’s something that I always keep in my back pocket, sometimes with a little fusion influence or an element of a dish that’s unique.

If you weren’t a chef, what would you be?

In the early stages of my life, I was geared toward trying to be a marine biologist or a meteorologist, so I would always study the weather. Eventually, I realized, “I don’t think I’ve got the knack for university.”

You’re trapped on a desert island, and you only have five ingredients. What are they?

Eggs, butter leaf lettuce, pigs for protein, cucumbers, and strawberries.

If you could cook for anyone, who would you choose and what would you cook?

I’m a big golf fan, so Tiger Woods. And I would cook him whatever he wanted.

What wine are you drinking?

I enjoy the Tawse Riesling from Niagara.

What food trends are interesting right now?

Food trends run in a cycle where the same things come and go. There’s such a deep history with food and culinary arts that, in a sense, everything has been created. Oh, are we doing classical French food? Oh, are we going back to old-school Italian? Oh, now we’re going to do gastronomic and more refined cooking with foams and emulsions! For the most part, I love traditional French cuisine. That’s my favourite thing to cook.

Do you have a favourite cookbook?

I’m a big French Laundry fan. I like Thomas Keller’s story: how he came up, his failures, and now his huge success. I also like his style—it’s very French-influenced. I am inspired by how he comes across, the way he talks, the food he makes, the purpose behind it, and what he’s done.

Why do you lean toward traditional cooking methods?

I like to put in the time and read books so I can retain the knowledge I need. On social media, food looks beautiful, but how do you actually make it? You can’t just duplicate something that you’ve seen in a picture without knowing the science behind it. That’s why I don’t do Instagram or social media. I’m a little bit of an old soul that way.

Tuna Crudo on chili vinaigrette, with labneh, cucumbers, Frescolio Arbequina olive oil and fresh chervil.

Basque Cheesecake with crème fraiche and macerated strawberries

King Oyster Mushroom + Hummus finished with chermoula sauce, Fresh Forage micro greens and Friend Bakery sourdough

A New Way to Wine

By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET, Sommelier

In February 2025, Canadian consumer habits shifted due to both product availability and a desire to change buying habits for the foreseeable future. Our customers find themselves in new territories, searching for fresh options for their favourite styles, from opulent Chardonnay to red fruit-driven Pinot Noir, from tannin-rich Cabernet Sauvignon to spicy, bold Zinfandel. Here is our handy guide to exploring your favourite styles in new and exciting places.

Spier Wines 2023 Discovery Collection Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay Walker Bay, South Africa ($16.99)

River Retreat 2022 Pinot Noir New South Wales, Australia ($16.99)

Paul Mas 2023 Claude Val White Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($17.99)

Aragonesas 2023 Crucillon Tinto Garnacha/Tempranillo Campo de Borja, Spain ($14.99)

Paul Mas 2023 d’Astruc Chardonnay Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($21.99)

Claude Vialade 2023 Elegance Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($24.99)

Claude Vialade 2023 Catch Me if You Can Chenin Blanc, France ($23.99)

Civettina 2022 Rosso Syrah/Frappato Sicilia, Italy ($19.99)

Crystallum 2023 Clay Shales Walker Bay, South Africa ($66.99)

Little Engine 2021 Silver Series Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, Canada ($58.99)

David Moreno 2023 Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Rioja, Spain ($27.99)

Ernst + Neue 2023 Kalterersee Classico Superiore Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($28.99)

CHARDONNAY

PINOT NOIR

Botter 2022 Oltre Piano Primitivo Puglia, Italy ($19.99)

Quinta da Pacheca 2022 Tinto Douro, Portugal ($18.99)

Menhir Salento 2022 Primitivo di Manduria Puglia, Italy ($25.99)

Pinuaga 2023 La Senda Castile-La Mancha, Spain ($25.99)

CignoMoro 2022 80 Vecchie Vigne Primitivo di Manduria, Italy ($49.99)

Castell d’Encus 2018 Quest Red Blend Costers del Segre, Spain ($101.99)

ZINFANDEL RED BLENDS

Oakbank nv Cabernet Sauvignon South East Australia, Australia ($14.99)

Finca Las Moras 2022 Tannat Mendoza, Argentina ($17.99)

Coriole 2022 Songbird McLaren Vale, Australia ($25.99)

Alconde 2021 Optimo Merlot/Cabernet Navarra, Spain ($26.99)

Brancaia 2021 No. 2 Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana, Italy ($56.99)

Noon 2018 Eclipse Grenache/Shiraz McLaren Vale, Australia ($89.99)

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

HERE, THERE AND EVERYWHERE: JAY R’S CROSSTOWN EXPRESS

Some business owners grow up in a family business, and some start with a leg up—either through family contacts or with a little help from benefactors. And then there is the self-made entrepreneur, who sees an opportunity and pursues it, building their business from the ground up. Jay Ritsema, owner of Jay R’s Crosstown Express, is firmly in this category: a born entrepreneur who decided to create something for himself.

Jay started working as a courier in 2003, and by 2006, he decided to take the reins. “I bought a Hyundai Accent and started in my little car. Then I filled in for a guy driving a half-ton with a pipe rack. It was a better way to make more money, so I bought my first truck. Then I bought another truck and a flat-deck trailer, and the rest is history.”

Jay R’s Crosstown Express focuses on nimble courier service that is fast and reliable. His impressive fleet of vehicles caters to everything from home-to-home delivery to a haul of time-sensitive heavy construction materials. His fleet of efficient cars and mini-vans zip around the city at maximum capacity, catering to smaller-sized deliveries. These jobs can range from sensitive legal documents to small parts and residential runs. From there, Jay’s fleet of cargo, transit, and cube vans (up to 5-tonne) bear larger loads, catering to bigger jobs and construction sites. His flat-deck trucks (ranging from 16- to 46-foot capacity) transport the biggest hauls, like lumber, steel, and pipe.

Most of the freight racing around in Jay’s Crosstown Express fleet is within city limits, with a radius of 160 km outside of the city. However, if you need to go further, Jay can accommodate in a pinch. “Our office staff is always willing to help. If you call me and say, ‘Jay, I need this,’ I will accommodate you if I can, and if I can’t, I will help you find a solution.”

No matter the size of the load, Jay’s business philosophy emphasizes the three fundamental principles of courier service: speed, efficiency, and reliability. Jay knows that each delivery is important to the customer, regardless of the scope of the order. “If you need to get something from point A to point B, call us. Whether it’s a million-dollar cheque that needs to be deposited that day or a cash call for a quick residential job, we deliver peace of mind. You can depend on us to get your package to where it’s going on time. That high-level service is the foundation of this business.”

In support of this mission, Jay relies on his dedicated team of 25 full-time staff and the latest digital innovations to keep the day-to-day logistics running smoothly. “The software we use connects customer orders and tracking to billing. I can also manage driver routes, connecting in real time via apps connected to their phones. It streamlines my job, the customer’s experience, and the drivers all at the same time.”

Employing these innovations allows Jay the time to focus on what he enjoys most: connecting with new and established clients. “I love visiting businesses and new clients to see their operations and assess what they need. My goal is to keep growing as a company while maintaining that personal touch in our service.”

In addition to building professional networks, Jay has deep roots in community service. He grew up in Transcona, where the Regents hockey teams reign supreme. In addition to supporting community events, Crosstown sponsors the Transcona Regents U11 hockey team. In fact, if you are a hockey fan (whether you’re cheering for the Jets or your own youth player) and the name “Jay R’s Crosstown Express” rings a bell, you may be calling it up from Jay’s years of partnership with True North, where his logo will pop up both in Canada Life Centre during jets games and in the Hockey For All Centre.

With a foundation in hard work, innovation, and customer service, Jay R’s Crosstown Express is a classic Manitoba success story. “To be honest, I am a self-made man. I built on the skills I learned early in my work life, and every step of the way, I taught myself how to get to the next level.”

Jay has harnessed his grit, confidence, and determination to build a reputation that delivers.

Call Jay at 204.663.9567 to set up a customer account or visit crosstownexpress.ca to set up your first delivery.

Owner Jay Ritsema (photo by Ian McCausland)

SECURE YOUR FAMILY’S LEGACY WITH

EXPERT TAX PLANNING.

Ensure your family cottage remains a beloved haven for generations to come.

Why Choose Rawluk & Robert CPAs?

Our accountants will help you navigate the tax implications associated with property transfers, offer strategies tailored to your unique family situation, and provide the experience needed to ensure your family cottage will be passed down smoothly, avoiding potential conflicts and financial strain.

Our Services Include:

Capital Gains Tax Planning:  Learn how to minimize the tax impact when transferring your cottage.

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Trusts and Estate Planning:  Discover the benefits of using trusts to manage and transfer your property.

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Schedule a consultation today: ph: 204-237-6053 | www.accountants.mb.ca

Your Trusted Partner in Tax Planning

226

Backyard Burgers

By Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, and Ricki-Lee Podolecki

Photos by Ian McCausland

Summer barbecues are the perfect venue to show off your tried-and-true burger recipe. Mike tells us that every summer, his dad would get a giant bowl out to prepare and freeze his burger patties for the summer. One summer, he pronounced his patties the “Lamborghini of hamburgers,” and they have been known ever since as Larry’s Hamborghinis.

We challenged three of our wine experts to bring something new to our summer burger feast. Jill prepared her Greek-themed chicken burgers, Ricki-Lee created a vegetarian chickpea patty, and Mike brought a Manitoba bison burger topped with homemade bacon and caramelized onion jam. Each rolled up their sleeves to create a unique patty and top their burgers with loads of flavour. And, don’t worry—they added the perfect wine pairings to make your barbeque the most memorable on the block. Cheers to summer!

GREEK CHICKEN BURGER WITH DILL CREAM

Makes 6 burgers

900 g ground chicken

2 cups fresh spinach, finely chopped

½ cup feta cheese, crumbled

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup Italian breadcrumbs

2 tbsp Frescolio Picual (medium-intensity) extra virgin olive oil

2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

½ tsp ground pepper (or to your liking)

6 fresh buns

Toppings: lettuce, red onion rings, sliced cucumber, garlic dill cream (recipe below)

Mix all burger ingredients together and refrigerate for 20 minutes before forming into patties. Grill on medium–high heat for 4 minutes per side. Let rest for 5 minutes under a foil tent before assembling the burgers. Top with lettuce, red onion, cucumber, and Garlic Dill Cream.

Garlic Dill Cream

1 cup plain Greek yogurt

1 lemon, zested and juiced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

¼ tsp salt

¼ tsp pepper

Mix ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use. It is best if made well ahead of time so all flavours meld.

PERFECT SIDES: Jill suggests Greek salad and lemon potato wedges.

Find all of our PERFECT SIDES recipes online on our recipe blog:

PAIR WITH: Joseph Mellot 2022 Destinéa Sauvignon Blanc Loire Valley, France ($23.99)

Alpha Estate 2022 Rosé Xinomavro Amyndeon, Greece ($42.99)

River Retreat 2022 Pinot Noir New South Wales, Australia ($16.99)

CHICKPEA CURRY SPICED BURGER

Makes 8 burgers

1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ small red onion, chopped

1 egg* cup breadcrumbs

½ cup cilantro, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

½ tsp smoked paprika

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp garam marsala

½ tsp curry

½ tsp ground coriander seeds

½ tsp salt red pepper flakes to taste

2 tbsp vegetable oil

8 slices halloumi cheese, grilled

1 jar spicy mango chutney

8 buns or naan bread

Butter “Licken” Sauce (see recipe below)

*Vegan alternative: substitute 2 tbsp tahini for egg.

Mash the drained and rinsed chickpeas in a bowl with your fist or a fork. Add the chopped red onion, garlic, spices, breadcrumbs, and 1/3 cup cilantro (reserve the rest for toppings) to the chickpeas and stir with a large spoon until well combined. Add egg (or tahini) to the mixture and stir until you can mould it into 8 patties. Heat a frying pan coated with oil on medium–high. Once heated, pan-fry the patties until the surface is light brown, and then flip and brown the other side. Once you remove the patties, keep warm in a low-heat oven.

Spray the frying pan with cooking oil and grill the halloumi cheese on medium for 2 minutes on each side. Halloumi does not melt like regular cheese, so you can fry it to a crisp golden brown and retain the melty middle. Serve patties on buns or naan and top with your favourite store-bought chutney.

Butter “Licken” Sauce*

2 tbsp butter

1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp garam masala

1 tsp curry powder

1 tsp ground coriander seeds

1 tsp salt

3 oz tomato paste

1 can coconut milk (not light)

For the sauce, first melt butter in a pan over medium heat. Sauté the diced onion for 7–8 minutes or until translucent. Add the ginger, garlic, salt, and spices and stir until fragrant (1–2 minutes). Add the tomato paste and coconut milk. Stir and simmer for 10 minutes.

PERFECT SIDES: There is enough of this Butter Chickeninspired sauce for your burgers, as well as extra to toss into a crispy potato salad. Find Ricki-Lee’s Butter “Licken” Crispy Potato Salad recipe on our online recipe blog.

PAIR WITH:

Fram 2023 Chenin Blanc Swartland, South Africa ($41.99)

Martin Bardugo 2024 Rosado Ribero del Duero, Spain ($22.99)

Kurtatsch 2022 Sonntaler Schiava Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($33.99)

SHOP LOCAL:

Local cheesemaker Chaeban Artisan makes an incredible halloumi: a semi-soft cheese that can be grilled or pan-fried. Buy Chaeban’s cheeses at local specialty food shops as well as many major grocery retailers.

BISON BURGERS WITH BACON JAM

Makes 6 burgers

900 g ground bison

1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp salt

½ tsp pepper

2 tsp garlic powder

cup shallots, minced

2 tbsp fresh thyme

8 slices Gruyère cheese Bacon Jam (recipe below)

6 hamburger buns

6 pieces leaf lettuce

Preheat your grill to 400°F or set to medium-high. Gently mix together the first six ingredients with your hands and form patties. Cook patties for 4–5 minutes per side (internal temp of 160°F). Melt the Gruyère on the patties for the last 2 minutes. Cover the burgers with foil and let them rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Bacon Jam

1 package thick-cut bacon, chopped

2 extra-large yellow onions, sliced

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup water

cup strong brewed coffee

1 tbsp Frescolio 18-year aged Balsamic vinegar

Heat a large frying pan (with a lid) on medium-high heat. Cut the bacon into half-inch slices. Fry while stirring until bacon is cooked but still chewy, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon and pat with a paper towel to absorb the fat.

PAIR WITH:

Tawse 2019 Estate Chardonnay Niagara Peninsula, Canada ($39.99)

Berto & Fiorella 2022 Rosato Friuli/Venezia Giulia, Italy ($23.99)

Pinuaga 2022 Pico Largo Garnacha Castile-La Mancha, Spain ($31.99)

SHOP LOCAL:

The Cheesemongers recommended a beautiful Swiss Gruyère to top our bison burger.

Cool the frying pan a bit, then add the onions to the bacon fat. Heat on medium, covered, for 8–10 minutes until translucent, then reduce heat to low. Stir in the brown sugar and continue to cook, covered, for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the cooked bacon, coffee, and water to the pan. Increase the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, for about another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it has thickened into your preferred jam consistency. Remove from heat and stir in the balsamic vinegar. Serve warm or at room temperature. Refrigerate for up to 10 days, or it can be frozen for months.

NOTE: The bacon fat will turn into a white solid in the fridge. It will return to its liquid state when heated or brought up to room temperature.

PERFECT SIDES: Mike served his burger with a summery Pea and Arugula Salad with lemon basil vinaigrette, which you can find online on our recipe blog.

Oh, Canada!

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG), CMS

The 2020s have started out with some incredible challenges for our Western Canadian wine producers. Six years of severe weather events in the Okanagan have put a huge strain on vineyard stock, meaning that wineries have had to be resourceful to continue to grow. But Canadian wineries have cut their teeth on periods of adversity followed by growth and evolution.

The history of the Canadian wine market is a long and winding journey. What started decades ago with immigrants planting grapes for their own personal consumption has morphed into a multi-billion-dollar industry that competes on the world market, as well as for market share within the Canadian market.

In the 1980s, Canadian wines debuted on the world stage. To be competitive on the North American market, there was a massive government-funded Vine-Pull program so wine producers could replace our native, winter-hardy grape varieties (Vitis riparia) with more traditional grape vines (Vitis vinifera). Our wineries have worked diligently over decades of vintages to determine the optimal locations for growing the best grapes to cultivate in our varying climates, and the styles that best represent Canada on the global market (we don’t just produce Ice Wine!). Canadian producers have found their footing in offering quality for price —enough so that they are expanding their reach internationally.

Within this context, Manitoba has a long and complicated history with Canadian wine. One of our most interesting quirks is that the palates of Manitoban wine drinkers have really come of age in the last 20 years. As the greater wine world has expanded, our tastes have evolved with it. When I started at JoCo in 2003, Australia was the most important wine region in our store, with Wolf Blass Yellow Label Cabernet being the #1 seller. Our customers enjoyed the big, rich fruit, soft tannins, and approachability. In addition, and in line with our frugal nature, the New World wine regions that were in favour also happened to be less expensive than the Canadian wines in our market.

Over the years, our palates have trended to Chile, then Argentina, and the United States (especially California). In short, we fell in love with wine styles that we cannot produce in Canada. Canada’s climate is more like Bordeaux than Napa, and our wines tend to be more about nuance and tannin than bold, soft fruit. Our climate is more amenable to earlier-ripening red varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Franc rather than Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Manitoba is ripe to expand its Canadian wine offerings. In conversation with Rasoul Salehi of Le Vieux Pin (see our interview on page 60), we asked why he valued having his wines in Manitoba. His answer was both thoughtful and flattering: “One selfish reason is that I want to visit Winnipeg. I’m an appreciator of Inuit art and would love to visit your Inuit art gallery [at WAG Qaumajuq]. Second is the love of being a Canadian and wanting to see our wines in all corners of the Great White North. It’s a point of personal pride; it’s something that is endearing to us.”

In 2025, we have already doubled our Canadian wine selections at Jones & Co., and we are hearing from wineries across Canada every day that are eager to be in our market. There has never been a better time to try Canadian wines!

A Taste of Home

We are very excited about the new Canadian wines on our shelves. If you are looking for truly local wine, we are excited to carry new wines from Winnipeg’s own Low Life Barrel House, Lumière Chardonnay and Nocturne Merlot (each $30.99). These natural wines are made by the very talented Jesse Oberman and his team from fruit sourced from the Niagara region. Jesse and his team are passionate about local, natural, and gulpable wines. We’re excited for you to try them.

Looking east, we celebrate this rosé season with a staple on our shelves for 5 years: Tawse Rosé ($19.99) from Niagara. And from the tiny but up-and-coming appellation of Prince Edward County, on the shores of Lake Ontario (your next must-see wine destination), our partners Closson Chase are producing some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the region.

Representing the Okanagan, the winemakers at Le Vieux Pin are passionate about displaying their unique terroir and vintages (Ava White Blend [$63.99] and Syrah “Cuvée Violette” [$67.99] are pictured below, but visit Jones & Co online for the full range). Their sister winery, LaStella, produces terrific, easy-drinking wines that will be popping up on patio lists this summer (Vivace Pinot Grigio [$29.99] is pictured below).

The Cost of Canadian Wine

The pricing of Canadian products is a huge factor in the Manitoba wine market. Canadian wines are not cheap to create. Prime established vineyards in the Okanagan can go for as high as $300,000 per acre.

Starting up a 25-acre vineyard (producing about 5,000 cases of wine) with new vineyards will cost around $1,000,000 and take a minimum of 3 years to grow a harvest that can produce quality wine. That is a base cost per bottle of $16.70— and you have not included building a winery yet.

Canada also has a higher cost of living, and we pay our employees more than in equivalent countries, all contributing to a higher cost. With that considered, Canadian wines have the same combined Manitoba Liquor & Lotteries fees and taxes as wines from every other region in the world of 95% (+ GST and PST at the till).

So that $16.70 wine just became $36.47 at the till—a steep price tag. We would love to see Canadian wines on our Manitoba shelves with a lower tax price tag to encourage and support interprovincial trade.

Four Questions for the Okanagan: Geoffrey Moss, MW, & Rasoul Salehi

Interview by Mike Muirhead and Ricki-Lee Podolecki

In light of the renewed focus on Canadian wines in our market, Jones & Co. wine experts Mike Muirhead and Ricki-Lee Podolecki invited two wine professionals from the Okanagan region of British Columbia to answer their four top questions about the state of the Okanagan’s wine industry, as well as the Canadian industry at large. Geoffrey Moss is one of only nine Masters of Wine (MW) in Canada. He has a hand in several aspects of the wine industry, giving him a unique perspective: in addition

to being a wine journalist, he also owns Lithica Wine Marketing, a branding and marketing agency that serves the global wine industry, and is a partner in the new virtual BC winery project, Søren, with winemaker Ryan McKibbon. Rasoul Salehi is the General Manager of Enotecca Winery and Resorts in Oliver, British Columbia. In addition to a background in wine education, Rasoul is the Managing Partner and Director of Sales and Marketing of Le Vieux Pin and LaStella wineries in the region.

1The last few vintages in the Okanagan have been challenging. How has that affected the region as a whole?

Geoffrey Moss (GM): Almost every wine region on Earth has been affected by climate change in the last decade, but perhaps no region has been more severely affected than the Okanagan. Starting in 2021, the wildfires had an impact on both wine quality and tourism—alongside COVID. Severe wildfires in 2021 and 2023 were exacerbated by extreme summer weather and extreme cold weather winter events. At those temperatures, we are not only concerned with bud damage or bud loss, as we experienced, but also vine death. So it’s not just a question of losing one harvest, but also potentially having to replant significant acreage. Some wineries in the Okanagan and Similkameen painted a very devastating picture, which, though certainly accurate, was potentially confusing for customers. Some interpreted that as “There’s no point in going to the Okanagan or Similkameen because there’s no wine to buy,” which certainly isn’t the case for every winery.

Rasoul Salehi (RS): The problems really started in 2019. Truly, 2018 was the last normal harvest. In 2019, a very early frost meant we had to bring in the fruit and sell it off in bulk because not all the grapes were fully ripened. Production was 15%–20% below average. In 2021, we had a similar situation, with even more losses because a lot of the grapes were severely smoke tainted, so they could not be used for wine. In 2023, the very untimely December frost and the polar vortex caused a 60% reduction in production.

Rasoul Salehi with LaStella winemaker and managing partner Severine Pinte (photo courtesy of Enotecca Winery and Resorts)

Late-spring frost damage to vines

In 2024, we had a loss of 97% or so. In 2018, we produced 18,000 cases. By 2024, that should have organically grown to up to 22,000 cases. Instead, in 2023, we produced just under 10,000 cases and in 2024, only 1,000.

2

To keep up production, Okanagan wine producers have had to bring in grapes and pressed juice from other regions to supplement wine production. Where did you source your grapes?

RS: We went to Washington State—as opposed to Ontario, Oregon, or California—because terroir-wise, they are the closest to us. Our climate and our soils are not the same, but they are awfully similar. We also ensure that the farming practices are done according to our wants and needs by buying by the acre, not by the tonne. In addition, the shorter distance to Washington allowed us to bring grapes intact in small baskets to sort at our crush pads. So those labels say: “Made with imported grapes.” We have also clearly labelled these wines as the “Washington edition.” Canadians want to support Canadians, so we want it to be clear when grapes are being sourced elsewhere. For us, it’s going to take at least two years—if not three— for even the live plants to get back to normal. That is, barring any more surprises.

3

What grape varieties should we be watching for in the Okanagan?

GM: International wine writers or media come to the Okanagan, and they want to declare the signature variety for the Okanagan, but it’s just not really possible in a very intelligent or significant way because of the diversity of climate and terroirs between north and south. In the south Okanagan, from a quality perspective, I don’t think anything comes close to Syrah. However, Syrah can’t survive the winter extremes, so a lot of grape growers are transitioning away from Syrah.

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Left: Geoffrey Moss’s Søren 2022 Boundary Spring red blend ($43.99) arrives on Jones & Company shelves this summer. From Le Vieux Pin, enjoy 2022 Roussanne white blend ($68.99), 2023 Petit Rouge red blend ($36.99), and 2022 Retouche red blend ($56.99); from LaStella, 2023 Vivace Pinot Grigio ($29.99). Ask our wine experts to show you the full Le Vieux Pin collection at Jones & Co.

If we look at the northern Okanagan, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling are pretty cut and dry. In the Similkameen, I would choose varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon. Anecdotally, there has been a move toward the Cabernet Franc, but in my personal opinion, Okanagan Cabernet Franc is extremely underwhelming. What makes Cabernet Franc such an enticing grape variety, whether it’s from the Loire or Niagara, are the aromatics, spice, and perfume. And I think we lose that in some of our hotter vintages.

RS: Okanagan is blessed and cursed to be able to grow so many different varieties. We have the climate to be able to ripen many different varieties, but those harsher winters and the shorter seasons help narrow our range of choices. Up north, the Pinot families, both white and red, do really nicely.

Similkameen can do so many amazing things and probably has the most interesting soils anywhere in the Okanagan; however, that colder wind and the lack of moderating lake effect make it super tough for them to grow the same thing forever and ever and ever. We have tried to home in on one or two grapes—or at least find the “style” of the Okanagan. There have been many international and local workshops, as well as local wine figures and tradespeople getting together to try and get there. It’s just not happening. We’re too young. We can’t force this upon ourselves. We have to almost embrace the Wild Wild West. A lot of the younger folks I’m talking to just want the people who make the wine to be good people. They want the farming practices to be organic and sustainable. None of the rest of it matters.

4When the Canadian wine industry was starting to find its legs in the 1990s, it was very important for Canada to set its own quality standard (Vintners Quality Alliance [VQA]). How important is VQA to you as winemakers and to the Canadian wine industry?

GM: We think of VQA as trying to accomplish two things. The first is related to quality. However, the vast majority of wines pass the tasting panel, so it is not really providing value. I would do away with that. My opinion would be to let the market decide. If someone’s going to release wines that are not good, they’re not going to be sold. Where VQA provides value is the second aspect: a guarantee of geographical origin. We’ve done a little bit of a disservice over time by introducing a lot of sub-regions. These are meaningful and important, but I think we’ve started to spin out too many. The sub-geographical indications (subGIs) that delineate sub-regions have to mean something to people outside of trade professionals.

I think the Okanagan industry needs to go through a period of consolidation, which is not a very romantic or sexy thing

to say. But in the Okanagan specifically, we have too many small wineries that aren’t sufficiently capitalized, and a period of consolidation would allow everyone a more viable path forward—not just with regard to the challenges we’ve seen in the vineyards over the last few years but especially what we’re seeing in terms of demand for wine consumption.

RS: VQA sets very low standards, but it is better than no standards. And to be honest with you, if we didn’t have to apply for VQA, we wouldn’t. But we do, to have any hope of listing with SAQ (Quebec) or LCBO (Ontario). And because we export about 20%–25% of our wines to Asia and Europe, they recognize VQA. It’s significantly easier to be export-ready if you have the VQA designation.

Once the Okanagan gets back on track and things calm down enough that people actually have time to have First World problems—because for now our problems are more existential—I would encourage everyone to start pushing for all the regulations to be more transparent, and I would support more truth in labelling.

Shirley Germain owns and operates

Lakewood Studio & Gallery from her home in the picturesque lakeside community of Lake Manitoba Narrows, about 2 hrs NW of Winnipeg.

Working from the inspiration that surrounds her, Shirley is one of Manitoba’s premier watercolour artists, who also enjoys painting on locally sourced oak leaves and birch bark with acrylics.

JONES & COMPANY EVENTS

Summer Sips & Snacks!

The sun is shining, and it’s time to raise a glass! Join us for our annual Summer Sips Event, where you’ll get to explore a selection of new and favourite summer wines on our beautiful upstairs terrace.

A guided tasting of summer-perfect wines

Delicious small bites to complement your sips

Live music to set the mood

The perfect excuse to grab a friend and unwind in the summer heat

Event Dates: July 10 @ 6:30 PM

Tickets: $85 per person (only 24 spots available per evening!)

Funky, Fun, & Fermented

Ready to shake up your wine game? Join us for a night of bold, quirky, and totally unexpected wines! We’re diving into chillable reds, hidden gem regions, and unique grape varieties that just might become your new favourites. Come sip, snack, and explore the unexpected!

A guided tasting of offbeat & exciting wines

Tasty snacks to complement your sips

Live music to set the perfect vibe

Expert insights from one of our wine pros

Event Dates: July 24 @ 6:30 PM

Tickets: $85 per person (only 24 spots available per evening!)

Guided Wine & Cheese Pairing Night

Calling all cheese lovers! Join us for an elevated tasting experience where we pair artisanal cheeses with the perfect wines. We’ve teamed up with Winnipeg’s best cheese shops—The Cheesemongers & De Luca’s—and our sommeliers have done the delicious work of finding the best combinations just for you!

A curated selection of exceptional wines

Hand-picked artisanal cheeses from top local shops

A guided tasting to learn the art of pairing

Event Dates: August 14 @ 6:30 PM

Tickets: $85 per person (only 24 spots available per evening!)

We’re turning another year older, and we want YOU to join the party!

We’re celebrating all day long with an in-store bash on Friday, September 26—and trust us, you won’t want to miss it!

What’s in store?

Surprises, specials, and celebrations

Fun tastings and treats

A party vibe all day long!

Stay tuned! We’ll be sharing sneak peeks and details on our social media, so keep an eye out as we get closer to the big day!

Get on the List – Sip, Learn, and Level Up!

Excited about wine? Whether you work in the industry, love to travel, or just enjoy a good glass, the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) is your gateway to becoming a certified wine expert!

Join our waiting list for WSET Level 1 (Beginner) and WSET Level 2 (Intermediate) to be the first to hear about upcoming classes and exclusive wine education events.

Email us at Wine@joneswines.com to secure your spot!

Cheers to learning—one sip at a time!

All event tickets are available on our Jones & Company website under the Events tab:

culinary partners

No one loves (or appreciates) summer patios quite like Manitobans! Our restaurant partners have some of the most incredible patios in the city—with wine lists to match!

1. Amsterdam Tea Room and Bar, overlooking Old Market Square in the heart of the Exchange District, has a chill party vibe—sipping and snacking the days and nights away.

2.

5. Gusto North’s modern and energetic downtown patio is the perfect spot for a lively evening out with friends, drinks, and great vibes.

Thermea Spa Village’s patio at Le Resto is a peaceful getaway to feed your body and spirit.

3. Bar Accanto’s sun-drenched patio is laid back and upscale— the perfect spot to enjoy Chef Emily’s summer menu.

4. Pizzeria Gusto’s lush, rustic patio offers cozy, comfortable seating—perfect for intimate dinners or cocktails with friends on the Academy Road strip.

6. Smith’s patio at Inn at the Forks has a laid-back, sophisticated vibe, blending the city’s energy with a relaxed, getaway feel.

7. The Delta’s Roof-Top Pool Patio is a bold, sun-soaked urban oasis where you can chill and stay cool all summer.

8. 529 Wellington’s elegant sanctuary of luxury exudes sophistication with a meticulously curated design that elevates every fine dining experience under the open sky.

9. Prairies Edge’s expansive patio in Kildonan Park is perfect for relaxed dining overlooking the duck pond.

10. Peasant Cookery’s eclectic patio, nestled in The Exchange, offers a vibrant setting for fabulous dining and unforgettable events.

11. Bluestone Cottage/Alena Rustic Italian’s newly renovated oasis is the place to enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the heart of Charleswood.

SIDEBAR

This Side of the Pond

By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier

As near as we can tell, it all started more or less as rosé.

Rosé has been with the human family for at least 3,000 years—and likely a lot longer. In ancient times, wine was neither red nor white nor even orange. White grapes and reds alike were cultivated and harvested together, crushed at harvest (stomped on), and pressed and fermented all in the same batch. What they produced was ultimately wine with a pink-grey hue.

Early traders and conquering forces took vine and wine all over the Mediterranean. Wine styles took shape over time, but the winemaking techniques we know today are recent. The idea of separating varieties is a few hundred years old. Measuring ripeness in the vineyard, cooler fermentations, and extended macerations for reds are all 20th-century developments. The ancients only knew that if you kept (coloured) grape skins in contact with fermenting juice, the result was a rough wine with harsh, bitter tannins. In medieval France, the most prized reds were closer to today’s deeper rosés. Champagnes were pinkish, sometimes named Œil de Perdrix (partridge eye). In medieval Bordeaux, the best wines were dubbed with the Latin name vinum clarum , meaning light-coloured. Amusingly, “Claret” is still the English nickname for today’s red Bordeaux, which is anything but clear.

As things progressed, Europeans, by and large, continued to hold a preference for somewhat lighter-coloured reds and fresher styles. In the south of France and many other regions, the style of breezy, dry rosés on hot days (or even not-so-hot days) took hold. Throughout Europe (dry) rosés are a welcome drink of summer, appreciated for their food-friendliness and a host of styles and prices.

On this side of the Atlantic, the story unfolded into a different landscape. Post-prohibition wine in Canada and the United States was dominated by higher-alcohol, sweeter wines, and our wider cultures became accustomed to soft drinks and sweeter beverages generally. European exporters gave us what we wanted, and in the 1960s, all the cool kids over here were drinking slightly fizzy, definitely-not-dry Mateus. It was good economics for those producers, but it was not great for our maturation as wine lovers.

Moreover, in the 1970s, at a time when wine regulations in Provence were strengthening to improve (dry) rosé production, White Zinfandel launched on this side of the pond. This sort-of rosé/sort-of semi-sweet wine ultimately did a disservice to both rosé and sweet wine categories. These mass-produced rosé wines enjoyed enthusiastic marketing, and the category became an ocean of White Zinfandel, White Cabernet, White Merlot, and blushy offshoots. They came to bear about as much resemblance to real rosé as plastic-wrapped processed cheese slices bear to artisanal cheddar: they looked similar but were ultimately just engineered imitators.

The marketing of rosé, especially quality rosé, has subsequently had a bit of a tough climb because of these influences. But Canadians are learning that there is a bigger rosé world out there than just a few blushy White Whatevers. Bring on the world of rosé, from almost white to almost red, and all in between. We are ready to do rosé right.

So here’s to you, from the eye of the partridge.