Cellar Door the
Shop Local, Globally with Jones & Company Wine Merchants
Wine Traveller
WINNIPEG REAL ESTATE EXPERTS
“MOVING FAMILIES SINCE 1977"
Garry graduated from the University of British Columbia with a Bachelor of Science in Agriculture, specializing in Food Science, he then took a job with Labatt Brewing Company and was transferred to Winnipeg. After spending seven years with Labatt, Garry took the plunge into real estate almost 48 years ago, started “The Parkes Team” with his wife Becky in ‘97 and son Brad joining in ’09, and has not looked back!
Garry has a real passion and knowledge for wine, and if you’re looking to try something new, check out his top three choices and you can find them at Jones & Company!
MEET
GARRY PARKES
Baudouin Millet Chablis Cabernet Sauvignon No. 2 Brancaia Torralbenc Merlot/Syrah
Images by New Copper Photography
22 Oh, The Places You’ll Go!
Mike Muirhead takes you on a global tour of sip-and-stay winery experiences.
42 Adventures en Route
Our Sommeliers go off the beaten track to share some of their favourite wine-country side trips.
47 Top Tips for Travel
Our Sommeliers share their top tips for navigating wine travel.
50 Travel Spotlight: Portugal
Jill Kwiatkoski gives you the lowdown on the hottest current wine destination.
53 Down in the Dumplings
Let’s indulge in the world’s darlings: dumplings from around the globe.
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Welcome to The Banks by StreetSide, our first ever luxury riverfront condominiums at 1924 St.Mary’s Road. Enjoy designer finishes, large windows and open concept layouts, including a spacious outdoor balcony or terrace. Residents will also enjoy fantastic amenities including underground heated parking & fitness facility.
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Publisher and Editor Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com
Editorial Board
Tina Jones, Sylvia Jansen, Gary Hewitt, Jill Kwiatkoski, Mike Muirhead, Ricki-Lee Podolecki
Graphic Design Garfield Street Media info@garfieldstreet.ca
Contributors
Todd Antonation, Andrée-Anne Boisvert, Noah Cantafio, Carol Fletcher, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Liz Kaye, Megan Kozminski/Media Spur Inc., Jill Kwiatkoski, Krista Mailey, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Apryl Nadeau, Tom Penner/Firefly Communications Experts, Ricki-Lee Podolecki, Dylan Watkins, Rick Watkins
Published for Jones & Company Wine Merchants by Poise Publications Inc www.poisepublications.com
For advertising information, email lisa@poisepublications or visit poisepublications.com/the-cellar-door.
In 1999, Tina Jones had the vision of opening Banville & Jones Wine Co., a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. In 2020, we changed our name to Jones & Company to reflect our team and focus on shopping local, globally.
1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 204-948-9463
JonesWines.com | @joneswinemerchants
© 2025 Poise Publications Inc.
A FAMIL I AR FACE IN A NEW SPACE
,
Chef Emily Butcher brings signature style to Bar Accanto
Bar Accanto, the sophisticated and cozy companion to Nola, has quickly become a favorite destination for those seeking a vibrant dining experience since its opening in April 2023. Now, it’s poised to turn a new page with the arrival of a familiar face at its helm: Chef Emily Butcher.
Chef Butcher is stepping into her new role as Executive Chef at Bar Accanto and Burnley Place Hospitality. Her culinary approach, which draws deeply from her Canadian-Chinese upbringing, has already made waves. With this new adventure, she’s adding European and Mediterranean techniques to her repertoire, creating a menu that is both an evolution and a departure from the lively creations she’s known for at Nola.
One of her standout new dishes house-made gnocchi with a sundried tomato XO sauce and kombu furikake perfectly illustrates this blending of styles. It’s a dish that feels at once comforting and innovative—a hallmark of her approach to shareplate dining.
This is not just a culinary transition for Chef and The Burnley Place Hospitality Group it’s a continuation of a story. One where Chef Butcher can bring her signature flair to an exciting new stage.
a message from tina jones
Wine travel is so important—because wine travel is education. It is fuel for our passion and inspiration for continued learning. Wine travel changes how we see wine regions and teaches us so much. What returns home with us might include treasures and memories but also new lenses through which to see these wine regions and a greater understanding of the culture. For our professional team, education from wine travel brings unmatched benefits to our customers.
Our team has travelled the world, literally, to learn and find new wines, but also to understand more deeply the why, the how, and the who involved in this amazing industry. We have searched and researched, and we have kept up with ever-evolving developments in wine.
Join us in our love affair with travel and learning! In this issue of The Cellar Door, we feature a small selection of beautiful wine places that are easy to overlook but, once visited, hard to forget. Mike Muirhead highlights some beautiful wineries where you can rest your head and taste their wines. Gary Hewitt talks about how bugs travel, and Ricki-Lee Podolecki helps us go places through our wine glasses. Jill Kwiatkoski spotlights wine tourism in Portugal, and our wine experts share their favourite dumpling recipes from three different cultures. We also offer travel advice because we want you to benefit from our learning!
Please take these trips with us, and when you are ready to pack your own bags, please talk with our team. We have a world of interesting stories to share with you!
While you are planning, be sure to have a wonderful glass of wine at your side!
Salut!
Tina Jones
A Perfect Pairing
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what we’re drinking
Rick Watkins: Giacomo Fenocchio 2022 Nebbiolo Langhe, Italy ($46.99)
Jill Kwiatkoski: Pike’s 2020 Settler’s Cottage Shiraz Clare Valley, Australia ($18.99)
Liz Kaye: Pulenta 2022 VI Sauvignon Blanc Mendoza, Argentina ($23.99)
Mike Muirhead: Bat Gara 2022 Uno Hondarrabi Zuri Txakoli, Spain ($26.99)
Krista Mailey: Luca Marenco 2022 Barbera d’Alba, Italy ($41.99)
Dylan Watkins: Domaine Lafond 2023 Roc-Épine Rouge Côte du Rhône, France ($27.99)
Noah Cantafio: Erste+Neue 2022 Kalterersee Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($28.99)
Todd Antonation: Thörle 2020 Saulheim Spätburgunder Kalkstein Rheinhessen, Germany ($38.99)
Apryl Nadeau: Roscato nv Bianca Dolce Trevenezie, Italy ($17.99)
Saralyn Mehta: Laurent Miquel 2023 Père & Fils Chardonnay Pays d’Oc, France ($19.99)
Lisa Muirhead: FRAM 2022 Grenache Gris Rosé Swartland, South Africa ($36.99)
Ricki-Lee Podolecki: Martín Berdugo 2022 Tinto Baricca Ribera del Duero, Spain ($25.99)
BEHIND THE LABEL
FRAM
By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG), CMS
In case you missed it, our team of Sommeliers have been pretty impressed with Chenin Blanc these days—so much so that it has its own section in the store. When our South African experts from Blend Imports brought us a new option, we were all ears (and noses!)
Paul and Shirley Martens—the Manitoba team behind Blend—love to source wines the way we do: by asking winemakers who make really good wines what they are drinking. They discovered FRAM winery through the praise it was drawing from two of their favourite established South African winemakers, Adi Badenhorst of A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines and Peter-Allan Finlayson of Crystallum.
FRAM wines are crafted by husband-and-wife team Thinus and Hanneke Krüger. Thinus started his winemaking career working for a legendary South African label—Fleur du Cap—and Hanneke was the winemaker for A.A. Badenhorst for years. Their combined experience and adventurous spirit have brought us something truly unique.
“FRAM means to ‘go forward’ in Norwegian. The wines are named after a famous ship that sailed around 100 years ago, taking explorers on their mission to get to the then unexplored North and South Poles,” explains Thinus. “When I started my own business and started exploring the wonderful vineyards of the Cape, the name and ideals of
This beautiful single-vineyard Chenin Blanc ($41.99) is stunningly complex and simultaneously rich and zippy. The grapes are from the Piekenierskloof, two hours north of Cape Town.
that era of explorers resonated with me. And going forward in life is always a good idea.”
Thinus and Hanneke are not tied down to any specific region. Instead, they have focused on vines in areas so remote that they call them “Here Be Dragons”—a term that references ancient maps that drew dragons on the fringes that were not yet explored. They search for old vineyards in places like Citrusdal Mountain, Swartland, and Skurfberg. “In my previous life, I worked for the two biggest wine companies in South Africa,” explains Thinus. “I had exposure to many different regions, and I liked the differences and the personalities that they all bring.”
What makes FRAM wines unique is their minimalintervention winemaking practices. These natural wines are clean and crisp but have a depth of flavour and character that set them apart in any lineup. Come to Jones & Company to discover your new favourite “Here be Dragons” wines!
This Cinsault found its home as a single-varietal in South Africa. This wine’s crunchy red fruits are lively and fresh on the palate, with enough tannin to hold everything together. The grapes for FRAM’s Cinsault ($36.99) and Dark Days Pinotage ($33.99) are from the same farm— Krommevalley, three hours north of Cape Town, outside of the town of Clanwilliam. This is part of the greater Cederberg region, the home of rooibos tea.
Thinus describes this Grenache Gris rosé ($36.99) as “orange wine for grownups”—a rosé with a bit of tannin and a flavour profile of macerated cherries and fresh herbs. These grapes are from the Weltevrede farm in the VoorPaardeberg, the appellation between the Swartland and Paarl.
Thinus, Hanneke, and baby Franćene at the FRAM winery in the Swartland, South Africa
Charlie Spiring Local Roots, World-Class Solutions
Charlie Spiring has always been a big dreamer who is not afraid to take risks. You see, Charlie graduated with a Bachelor of Commerce from the University of Manitoba business school in 1980 amid one of the worst recessions the world had seen since the Great Depression in the 1930s. With a knack and early reputation for making the most of bear markets (one of Charlie’s
nicknames is “bear-market baby”!), he made the critical (and, to some at the time, overly ambitious) decision to grow and share his financial talent at home in Manitoba, rather than taking it to the bright lights of big cities like Toronto or Vancouver. We know now that his insight paid off—but the real story is in the hours and miles he put in to grow his team and clientele into a true juggernaut.
Charlie grew up in a family with two hardworking parents who instilled in him common sense and a foundation of family and local roots. While Charlie describes himself as an “okay” student, he also admits that he devoured the lessons that truly interested him: “I didn’t let it stop me: I had too many rocket ships to chase!” While his friends were busying themselves with more traditional childhood pursuits, Charlie’s nose was buried in financial books, learning the value of compound interest. His ambition has taken him to great heights while simultaneously— and somewhat incredibly—strengthening his Manitoba roots. For example, he was the first Spiring to attend and graduate from university (at the University of Manitoba)— but he has also supplemented that undergraduate degree with eight separate trips to Harvard to crown his knowledge with some Ivy League pedigree.
When Charlie graduated from business school, many ambitious, young financial advisors were fleeing to large city centres to get their feet wet and make a name for themselves. Charlie, however, saw promise in the untapped populations across Manitoba. Northern communities were thriving due to abundant natural resources like minerals, lumber, and hydro. Charlie was one of the few to see Manitoba for what it was—the unrecognized financial centre of the country. He saw that there was wealth to be managed if only someone was willing to invest the time and resources in reaching those communities. Charlie joined local firm Midland Doherty one year out of university, and within two years, he had distinguished himself as one of their top advisors in the country.
“One of my favourite quotes is from famous football coach, Lou Holtz,” shares Charlie. “He said: ‘Show me someone who has achieved something worthwhile, and I’ll show you someone who has overcome
Photo by Thomas Fricke
adversities.’ In my experience, there is no straight line to success. Learning how to cope with challenges makes us better. In fact, success is a lousy teacher. And luck? Well, the harder I worked, the luckier I got.”
Charlie’s hustle and his talent in financial planning and wealth management created lasting relationships and built trust within Manitoba—a province that may not be flashy but certainly boasts its fair share of discrete wealth. On the foundation of these relationships, Charlie founded his first company, Wellington West Capital, in 1993.
Wellington West Capital started out with four advisors, a total of eight employees, and $200 million in assets. Over 18 years, Charlie built an incredible national brokerage that grew to 223 advisors in 50 branches across Canada, servicing more than 68,000 investors with over $10 billion of assets under administration. Charlie accomplished this with an important core value he calls “inverting the triangle”: he puts clients at the top of the triangle.
“I am a dreamer at heart—but if your dreams don’t scare you, you are not dreaming big enough. In building Wellington West, I learned that success is not defined by the end result. It is defined by your actions every day along the way. It requires facing each day with unwavering optimism and inviting innovation to give you an edge. And it involves hiring talented people and letting them shine (and grow). I have been lucky enough to be able to share my dream with many partners.”
Wellington West, the largest independent private wealth management firm in Canada, was acquired by National Bank in 2011 for $333 million. When Charlie closed this deal, the wealth was spread over his many advisors and employees, who were also investors in the company. He was
also careful to make sure that advisors were taken care of and that everyone who wanted to stay on had the option.
At National Bank, he assisted in the growth of the Wealth Management division, mentored partners, sought strategic acquisitions and recruits, and made an impact by becoming known as the “bureaucracy buster.” During his tenure as Vice-Chair of the Executive Committee of NBF Wealth Management, his fingerprints were all over National Bank Financial’s success in being the #1 performing Canadian bank stock for 10 years running.
In his tenure from 2013 to 2015 as Chair of the Investment Industry Association of Canada (IIAC), Charlie remained a strong advocate for the association’s member firms in their goal of achieving practical and effective rules, striving to ease compliance rules, and suggesting changes to public policy to augment market efficiencies. His goal was to argue for cost-effective and accountable regulation in the industry and advocate for good public policy on behalf of the investment dealer member firms. Together with the IIAC, Charlie worked to envision a national securities regulator that would provide better protection for investors, support efficient capital markets, and manage systematic risk.
For many, the sale of an asset like Wellington West would feel like the culmination of a truly ambitious and successful career. But if you know Charlie, then you know that this deal didn’t mean closing a door; it meant the opportunity to open a new one.
Following his work with National Bank Financial and the IIAC, he set out to build a new client-focused firm that highlights independence, new technology, and collaboration in its work with ultrahigh and high-net-worth private clients, endowments, foundations and institutional firms. In 2017, he founded Wellington-Altus Private Wealth with the goal of empowering the country’s top wealth management teams to work holistically with their clients to create a vision for what they want their wealth to do for them, their families, and their communities. They are in the business of building—and protecting—legacies.
As for Charlie’s legacy? The fact that Wellington-Altus Private Wealth is already recognized as one of the fastest-growing wealth investment firms in the history of Canada makes it clear that Charlie is still chasing rocket ships.
“Why would we stop?” Charlie grins. “We are just getting going!”
Charlie on building a team…
“It is important to build a like-minded team around you that are smarter than you, who bring positivity into the team, and who are not afraid of some heavy lifting. Find people whose strengths are your weaknesses. That’s just smart business practice. I believe in sharing my experiences, my knowledge, and my successes. I want to be able to pass that baton and help my team realize their dreams. I encourage my team to innovate and find new ways to work. I tell them, when you see the door open, don’t be afraid to step through it See where it takes you! Always remember, if Charlie Spiring can make it, the rest of you are way better equipped to take your shot!”
Oh, The Places You’ll Go!
By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG), CMS
When you enjoy a bottle of wine, sometimes it is easy to forget that winemaking starts with farming. That means that getting to the winery can be the hardest part of the visit. You are travelling in rural areas, often far from major cities—up mountainsides, through farmlands, into valleys. Many wineries have designed their on-site accommodations
to host their guests in style. In our 25 years of wine and travel, Jones & Company wine experts have crisscrossed the globe to find some of the best wines in the world for our customers. From agriturismos that give you a sense of farm life to cabins nestled among the vines, travel with us for a stay at some of our favourite wineries.
Relaxing in the Swartland (Photo courtesy of A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines)
Casa Silva
Colchagua, Chile
Chileans are some of the friendliest and most accommodating people we have had the pleasure to visit. At every location, they have welcomed us like family. At Hotel Casa Silva in Colchagua Valley, they take this a step further, literally welcoming you into the 100-yearold Silva family home, which has been lovingly converted into a boutique hotel that retains the charm of its colonial architecture with some modern upgrades. The property holds a few surprises: we were a little confused when we pulled up as we waited for 20 polo horses to be escorted through the gates. This made a lot more sense when we dined at their restaurant, the Club House Casa Silva— which overlooks one of the premier polo fields in Chile! The winery offers tours of their vineyards—and their horse stables!
Photos courtesy of
Casa Silva
Torralbenc Minorca, Spain
If you are in the mood for something completely off the beaten track, Minorca awaits you. This Spanish island is a bit more low-key than its neighbours, Majorca and Ibiza, but the food and accommodations at Torralbenc are some of the most luxurious we have seen. Its individual cottages are renovated farm buildings that feature open-air terraces surrounded by private gardens filled with rosemary, lavender and bougainvillea, plunge pools, and even grand views of the Mediterranean. After a day of wine tours, spa treatments, or relaxing on the sandy beaches close by, enjoy Michelin-star chef Gorka Txapartegi’s menu, which honours Minorcan traditions of slow cooking with honest, organic ingredients.
Photos courtesy of
Torrelbanc
A.A. Badenhorst
Swartland, South Africa
When we visited Adi Badenhorst at his winery on Kalmoesfontein farm in the Swartland, he showed us genuine South African hospitality: we arrived 1 hour early on a hot summer day (36°C) in a car with no air conditioning, and while Adi was sitting down to lunch with his family, he insisted that we go for a swim to cool off. He then made sure we had a cold beer—we were in heaven. When his brother and sister-in-law, Charl and Semma, moved to the Swartland to be closer to family, they created a true destination for wine travellers. They converted existing historical buildings on the farm—a grain silo, horse stables, and a late 1800s labourers cottage—to create a relaxed, unpretentious farm destination. They offer private pools and hot tubs, wine tasting and cellar tours, weekly events with locals, hiking and cycling paths, and even have a ceramics studio on site.
Photos courtesy of A. A.
Badenhorst Family Wines
Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne, France
Laurence Ployez visited Jones & Company for the third time this past fall, and she made it very clear that Winnipeggers are always welcome at Ployez-Jacquemart, where they can introduce you to the classic French “art of living” (hint: it involves Champagne). Nestled in the Domaine’s private enclosed park filled with trees and flowers—and within easy reach of some great Ployez-Jacquemart Champagnes—the Guest House at Ployez-Jacquemart has five themed rooms and a lounge for relaxing. The Domaine offers tours of the cellars, production, and vinification areas.
Photos courtesy of Champagne
Ployez-Jacquemart
Monteraponi Chianti, Italy
Experiencing Monteraponi is like stepping back in time in Italy. Monteraponi is a 10th-century ancient medieval village in the heart of Chianti that once operated as a monastery. The fully converted working winery offers private guest apartments (accommodating from two to 10 people) that feature stunning raftered ceilings and terracotta-tiled floors. The estate features wine tastings, a pool, barbeques, and hiking tours down to the private lake through the ancient oaks and chestnuts that surround the property. This is authentic Tuscan countryside living.
KEEPING UP WITH THE JONESES
Tina Jones and her family are seasoned travellers—and exploring new wine regions is their specialty! Looking for a place to explore? These are some of their favourite destinations.
Romantic escape: Beaune, France, with Adam & Chelsea Jones
Stay: Hotel De Beaune, France
Visit: Domaine Rollin
Eat: Restaurant Le Soufflot de Meursault
Weekend getaway: Prince Edward County, Ontario, with Julia Jones Fast & friends
Stay: Drake Devonshire
Visit: Closson Chase
Eat: Sand and Pearl Oyster Bar
The Bucket List Experience: Marques de Riscal
Tina and Mike recommend staying at the Frank O. Gehry-designed Marques de Riscal hotel, which blends avante-garde design and 21st-century technology with deeply rooted winemaking traditions in the adjoining 19th-century winery. The hotel and winery are located in the heart of the Spanish wine region of Rioja Alavesa, standing out as a contemporary wonder among the vineyards and medieval town of Elciego.
Photos courtesy of
Monteraponi
Wine Travel From Home
By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET
There are two ways to travel through a glass of wine. One is by consuming so much of it you forget where you are. A second (and more interesting) is by researching where the wine comes from. Reading about a region, its soils, its history, and the people who make it has allowed me to travel the world with a glass of wine while sitting on my sofa. Wines that have transported me to new places have two qualities: they have a great story behind them and they carry the distinct characteristics of the region they come from. Like a good book, these wines create a sense of place and can transport me from my sofa to the blue seas of Greece and the mountains of Alsace, the lakeside vineyards of the Okanagan and the tiered vineyards of Spain—and all for the price of a nice bottle of wine.
Alsace, France
With so many wine regions to visit in France, Alsace can be overlooked for travel—but it’s at the top of my list. It’s layered with history, has stunning mountains, and the wines are so influenced by their terroir that it is easy to find a glass that transports you there. For me, Paul Blanck’s wines do just that. Most of the wines have acidity that perfectly balances the round texture and slightly warm alcohol in the wines. This distinct character comes from the region’s long, cool growing season. Cousins Philippe and Frédéric Blanck have kept their fathers’ traditional knowledge alive while making wines that are resolutely modern.
“The soil gives the wine its style, the climate gives the wine its shape, and the history of the winery gives the wine its spirit.”
-Phillipe Blanck
Paul Blanck 2020 Pinot Gris Alsace, France $25.99
Paul Blanck 2019 Patergarten Riesling Alsace, France $38.99
Paul Blanck 2021 Riesling Alsace, France $33.99
Paul Blanck 2019 Furstentum Riesling Alsace Grand Cru, France $44.99
Amyndeon Plateau, Greece
Transporting yourself to sun-drenched Greece might seem impossible. However, Alpha Estates has captured the flavours and energy of the land with wines from the Amyndeon plateau near the North Macedonian border. Using indigenous varieties such as Xinomavro, Assyrtiko, and Malagouzia, Bordeaux-trained winemaker Makis Mavridis and oenologist Angelos Iatridis bring the Mediterranean to my glass. Each one of the wine labels reads like a textbook of information, sharing details of altitude, in-depth winemaking, and their sustainable philosophies.
Basque Country, Txakolina, Spain
If I could go anywhere in Spain, it would be to the Basque Country—and specifically, the region known as Txakolina. The locals spend twice as much dining out as people in North America because Basque Country is home to the second-most Michelin-starred restaurants per capita. What goes best with world-class food? Wine. Txakolina is not only an appellation but a style of wine made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape that is traditionally enjoyed as an aperitif. It is normally a simple, slightly effervescent style; however, winery Bat Gara takes a step outside the box and redefines quality. Friends Jose Cruz Guinea, a restaurateur, and Jose María Gotxi, a winegrower, have collaborated to create seriously high-quality Txakoli that can be paired with just about any food. It is easy to picture yourself sitting in a fine restaurant with a glass of wine from their vineyards while enjoying a favourite seafood dish or plate of cheese at home.
Okanagan, Canada
Having called the Okanagan home for almost 5 years, I do sometimes get “homesick” since returning to Winnipeg. Nothing brings me back to the Okanagan like a glass of Le Vieux Pin wine. Quality Canadian wine can be like finding a needle in a haystack, and we found it. French winemaker Severine Pinte has brought talent and passion to every bottle. Every wine has a distinct character carried in the south Okanagan vineyards and is laced with Frenchinspired winemaking. It’s not a shock that they are the industry leader of Syrah in the region. When I want to feel like I’m back in the mountains, I grab a glass and feel right back at home.
Le Vieux Pin 2023 Petit Blanc South Okanagan, Canada $31.99
Le Vieux Pin 2023 Petit Rouge South Okanagan, Canada $36.99
Le Vieux Pin 2022 Ava South Okanagan, Canada $63.99
Le Vieux Pin 2022 Cuvée Violette Syrah South Okanagan, Canada $67.99
Bat Gara 2022 Uno Hondarrabi Zuri Txakoli, Spain $26.99
Bat Gara 2018 Urtaran Cuvée Hondarrabi Zuri Txakoli, Spain $39.99
Alpha Estates 2022 Assyrtiko Florina, Greece $56.99
Alpha Estates 2022 Turtles Vineyard Malagouzia Florina, Greece $29.99
Alpha Estates 2018 Old Vines Reserve Xinomavro Amyndeon, Greece $52.99
Photo by Ian McCausland
Bugs Travel Too
By Gary Hewitt, DipWSET, CWE, FWS, Sommelier
Bugs travel, too. Insects, fungi, bacteria, and viruses stow away as uninvited passengers (they certainly don’t make bookings), and their dining choices once they arrive impact the world of wine. You see, bugs like to eat vines, suck the juice out of vines, lay their eggs in vines, and reproduce like mad. Sure, this may sound like typical tourists, but they don’t go home! They stay, and the locals need to learn to live with them.
Phylloxera is the poster child of travelling bugs. This tiny, pale-yellow aphid-like insect hitched a ride on samples of North American vines brought to England in the 1850s by acquisitive Victorian botanists. There, it rapidly developed a taste for the European grapevine (Vitis vinifera), which, unlike North American vine species, has no defence against the bug. Phylloxera’s complex life cycle includes four distinct forms that infect different parts of the plant—one dangerous form creates galls on the roots that strangle and kill the vine.
But this was not known when phylloxera was unwittingly shuttled across the English Channel to continental Europe and had a coming out party in the vineyards of southern Rhône in 1863. Swaths of vines withered and died for no apparent reason. Growers were frantic. Before anyone could determine the cause of the vine death, the bug went on a grand tour of all European wine regions. Estimates suggest that between 65% to 90% of all European vineyards were destroyed in the great vine blight of the late 1800s. When it was identified as the causative agent of the disease, the bug species was named vastatrix, “the destroyer.” Today, phylloxera has homes away from home all over the world: only dry, sandy soils and physically isolated, strictly quarantined countries like Chile, South and Western Australia, and Tasmania have successfully discouraged visits. Locals have learned to live with the destroyer by grafting V. vinifera cuttings onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock of North American vines—it seems that what goes around comes around, and vine roots can travel too.
Eastern North America was not nearly so welcoming to European grapevines brought by colonists. Vines rapidly died without explanation. We now know that indigenous phylloxera was one of the reasons, but other diseases lay in wait, including the fungi that cause powdery mildew and
“The phylloxera, a true gourmet, finds out the best vineyards and attaches itself to the best wines.” Punch, September 6, 1890
downy mildew. These two also hitchhiked to Europe and beyond in the 1800s, eating vineyard buffets and taking up permanent residence. The locals now resort to copperbased powders to control their guests.
Meanwhile, another scourge with an appetite for European vines stayed home waiting for its chance to travel. Pierce’s Disease (PD) is caused by Xylella fastidiosa, a bacterium that kills a range of plants by growing in and blocking the tubes that plants use to transfer water and nutrients. It travels from plant to plant aboard leaf-hopping sap-suckers called sharpshooters. For eons, X. fastidiosa stuck to the riverside environs of eastern North America, where native vines evolved to cope with its presence.
But even this homebody became restless and meandered westward, riding its broad range of host plants along riverside routes. Along the way, it hopped onto a new mode of transport, the flying glassy-winged sharpshooter, that could soar beyond the confines of riversides. On the west coast, X. fastidiosa discovered the European vines initially established by Spanish missionaries. The impact of PD was fully felt in 1999 in the small southern California wine region of Temecula, where over 300 acres of grapevines were rapidly destroyed. Today, local Californians enforce strict transport and quarantine restrictions to protect the wine industry and other commercial crops from devastation by travelling bugs unleashed from the confines of their homes.
These few examples of travelling bugs only scratch the surface. Bugs are legion, and they are opportunistic travellers. Eighty-six viruses have been isolated from grapevines worldwide. They travel locally by vector—be it mealybug, soft scale insect, aphid, dagger nematode, treehopper, or mite. The vectors live on plants. So, think about it the next time you are asked not to bring plant materials into a country: bugs travel too, and they like to skip security and head straight for the departure gate.
body measure
EMSELLA A Revolutionary Solution for Women’s Health
As women age, our bodies change in ways that constantly challenge our comfort and confidence in being in the world. Many women face urinary incontinence, yet few discuss it openly. For those who experience it, daily life can be impacted in profound ways. The simple joys of laughing with friends, exercising, or even sneezing can be overshadowed by concerns about leakage. However, advancements in medical technology are opening doors to effective, non-invasive solutions—one of which is Emsella.
Emsella is an innovative treatment designed to address incontinence by targeting the root cause: weak pelvic floor muscles. The pelvic floor plays a vital role in bladder control, yet it can become compromised over time due to factors like pregnancy, childbirth, aging, or hormonal changes. While pelvic floor exercises, such as Kegels, are often recommended, many women find it challenging to perform them effectively or consistently.
This is where Emsella stands out. Using high-intensity focused electromagnetic (HIFEM) energy, the device stimulates the pelvic floor muscles to a degree that is virtually impossible to achieve on your own. A single session delivers the equivalent of 11,000 Kegel exercises— an astonishing number that underscores the power of this treatment.
The procedure is straightforward and comfortable. You sit fully clothed on the Emsella chair for about 30 minutes while the device works to strengthen and tone your pelvic muscles. Many women notice an improvement in their symptoms after just a few sessions, with significant results after completing the recommended treatment plan.
At Body Measure, Emsella has been a cornerstone of women’s health services for over 5 years. As Winnipeg’s number one provider of Emsella treatments, the clinic has earned a reputation for expertise and exceptional care. With a team of skilled professionals and a commitment to patient well-being, Body Measure has helped countless women regain control and confidence in their daily lives.
While urinary incontinence is a common condition, it doesn’t have to define your daily life. Emsella, backed by years of proven success at Body Measure, represents a step forward in addressing this challenge—offering hope, comfort, and a renewed sense of control.
BLUESTONE COTTAGE
Delicious nutrient-dense breakfast and lunch.
ENJOY DAZZLING DINING
FROM POUTINE TO PRIME BEEF
PRAIRIE’S EDGE
Locally sourced, prairieinspired cuisine.
PEASANT COOKERY
Good
BISTRO
Stellar
529 UPTOWN Sleek design inspired by the Japanese steakhouse.
ALENA ITALIAN KITCHEN Rustic handmade Italian pastas, woodfired pizza, and rotisserie.
A Year in Review
By Ricki-Lee Podolecki, DipWSET
2024 was a whirlwind of amazing wines! Jones & Company celebrated our 25th year, and in doing so, we celebrated the long-standing relationships we have built, as well as the plethora of new and thrilling wines that hit our shelves. Here is a snapshot of some of our favourites.
Oh, Canada!
We are passionate about our motto, “Shop Locally, Globally”—and what better way to show that than to expand our Canadian selections?
Closson Chase, coming out of the unique region of Prince Edward County, Ontario, was a perfect addition. Keith Tyers’s passion for wine started as a Sommelier working in fine dining and grew into a career in winemaking. Although they are a young winery (est. 2003), Keith and the vineyards have matured together. His team knows every square metre of their vineyards and uses this knowledge to create flawless wines with endless food pairing opportunities.
Little Engine came into the store from my past life in the Okanagan. A college friend had reached out about getting into the Manitoba market—and it was exciting to reconnect and learn more about their wines. Little Engine wines will suit wine enthusiasts looking for varietal typicity and true terroir.
Italian Treasures
Todd Antonation, our Licensee Manager of 18 years, wanted to offer some more range and selection out of the prestigious region of Piedmont. We delivered! With two new producers, we offer a variety of options.
Barbara Ginestre, owner and oenologist of Le Ginestre, honoured us with a visit in September 2024. She educated staff on the family’s history, dating back to the 1700s, and hosted a special dinner with Alena Rustic Italian. The wines show remarkably well in their youth and will be incredible additions to a cellar.
Closson Chase Pinot Noir ($33.99) and Chardonnay ($31.99)
Little Engine Elevation Chardonnay ($51.99), Pinot Noir ($58.99), Union Meritage ($73.99), Le Vieux Pin Violette Syrah ($67.99)
Le Ginestre Nebbiolo ($41.99), Sottocastello Barolo ($86.99), Riserva Sottocastello Barolo ($125.99)
Luca Marenco’s wines found their way to our shelves thanks to a local customer who found this small winery on his travels. This winery lives on 10 hectares between the villages of Barolo and Novello and is rife with family history. Luca (winemaker and owner) is guided by tradition but doesn’t shy away from using modern equipment in the vineyard and winery. The result: great value wines with tons of character.
Latin Loves
Spain and Chile both offer incredible value and quality. This year, we wanted to offer more options for everyday wines that would break away from the norm. Carménère’s bold structure and unique spicy vegetal character have driven up demand for this grape variety. We searched high and low and found Chilean winemaker Ricardo PerezCru, who invests his 15 years of experience at La Junta in Carménère. We brought in three of his Carménères—and a Sauvignon Blanc to brighten up the selection.
Vega Tolosa’s winery started in 1998, but its eastern Spanish vineyards in Manchuela are over 80 years old. To preserve these vines, the winery goes above and beyond when it comes to organic and sustainable practices. Their incredibly passionate team is proof that value wines don’t need to cut corners.
Luca Marenco Dolcetto d’Alba ($32.99), Barbera d’Alba ($41.99), Barolo (2018: $89.99; 2019: $84.99), La Volta Barolo (2018: $119.99; 2019: $107.99)
La Junta Amigo Perro Sauvignon Blanc ($19.99), Amigo Perro Carménère ($21.99), Grand Reserva Carménère ($41.99)
Vega Tolosa 11 Pinos Orange Macabeo ($18.99), 11 Pinos Bobal ($18.99)
Executive Chef Matthew Withoos The Wood Tavern & Pauline
Photos by Ian McCausland
Executive Chef Matthew Withoos has cooked his way through the Winnipeg culinary scene. After spending his teenage years in the kitchens of Montana’s and Earls, he heeded the urge to move into smaller, locally owned establishments. First, he sharpened his skills as the pastry and sous chef at Pizzeria Gusto. From there, his resumé reads like a who’s who of some of Winnipeg’s top-pedigree restaurants: Segovia, Peasant Cookery, Deer + Almond, Máquè, and Brooklyn’s Bistro. Halfway through his kitchen experience, Matthew made the unexpected but well-timed decision to go back to Red River College’s culinary program. It was a time to get back to basics, catch his breath after a dozen gruelling years in the culinary trenches, and round out his skills. Matthew returned to the scene with a position at SMITH. After 5 years, he was offered the role of Executive Chef at the Norwood Hotel—a welcome position whose hours have very much suited his new role as a father. The hotel’s eateries—Pauline and The Wood Tavern—underwent a huge renovation and complete reimagining in 2019, and the banquet halls and hotel have followed suit.
What are the perks of running a hotel kitchen?
I have different avenues to do different things. I like the banquets, and I like the restaurants because they’re polar opposites. There’s an opportunity to showcase three very different menus—The Wood Tavern is an upscale pub and French bistro that focuses on slow food from the grill and the smoker, and then we have room for creativity in Pauline.
Was there a moment as a kid when you had a food awakening?
Because my parents were both working and I have two brothers, I would often go to my next-door neighbours’ house, the Fergusons, and cook with Marva. They were a family from Trinidad, so it was a completely different kind of experience—everyone was in the kitchen, having fun, cooking from scratch. I just kind of fell in love with it. I would make dinner with them every day after school and hang out until my parents came home.
What is your staple reference cookbook?
Thomas Keller’s books—The French Laundry, Ad Hoc at Home, Bouchon Bakery, Under Pressure. If I’m going to suggest a cookbook, his are great because there’s no malarkey. There’s nothing weird in it. They are just really well-executed recipes. They may seem daunting, but they are all explained very well, and it’s all easy enough if you have some ability.
Are there any current food trends that you are excited about?
We’ve cycled back to where I’m happy: we’re back to simplicity and showcasing just a few incredible ingredients. There’s no room to hide behind gels or powders or foams.
Do you have a favourite wine on the menu?
Clay Creek CV Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi, California).
Do you have a favourite kitchen gadget?
At home, it’s the ice cream machine. Me and little Ruby, we make a lot of ice cream at home. At work, we can do anything with the smoker and then finish it on our massive grill.
Fire-Grilled Octopus with romesco, chorizo, fingerling potatoes, and garlic aioli
Do you have a guilty pleasure?
Oh ya: Skittles.
You’re trapped on a desert island, and you can only take four ingredients. What do you take?
[After some discussion of important parameters—you don’t have to grow from seeds; the food will never run out; and you will be cooking on an open fire:] Okay, so then a whole rib eye, eggs, and potatoes. And since I’m probably not paying for it, I could get something a little bit more fun— probably a case of Stella. Got to have something—it’s a desert island!
If you could cook for anyone, alive or dead, who would you choose?
My grandpa. He passed away nine years ago, so I would love to show him where I’ve gone. I was always working and never really fun at events because I was tired and kind of worn down. So I would love to show him this space and all the stuff that we’ve done, so he could see that it wasn’t all for naught, just doing all these hours for somebody else. I would make him something that he would like—brisket. Yeah. He would love it.
12-Hour Braised Beef Brisket with buttery mashed potatoes, mapleroasted carrots, and pickled red onion
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Adventures en Route
Sometimes, it is the unexpected that gives us the greatest joy. We have friendships with many wineries around the world, and our visits often take us away from the most famous sites to less-trodden paths. When our buyers are
on the road, they often stumble upon destinations en route to wineries that have become some of their favourite spots. Here, in our insiders’ guide to world wine travel, we offer you a few treasures we found along the way.
Padua, Italy by Sylvia
Jansen
It was a scenic 30-minute drive into Padua from the Reassi winery in Italy’s Veneto. The day’s main event was a great visit with Diego Bonato, touring his family vineyards and tasting the beautiful Reassi wines. On our way into the city, we passed some of the Colli Euganei’s ancient volcanic hills and luxury spa towns (which are their own spectacular destinations). We expected Padua to be a good setting for a relaxing couple of days, which it was. What we did not expect was that this city would become a treasured destination.
Our primary destination in Padua was the Scrovegni Chapel, rewarding even for those only casually interested in art and art history. What was once a private chapel for a rich moneylender, the Scrovegni Chapel has become
known as one of the masterpieces of the early Renaissance. The visit was spectacular—and lasted less than an hour. From there, Padua opened itself to beautiful surprises.
Every old piazza was filled with cafés, brasseries, restaurants, and bars. Strolling the old town offered a show of medieval history and art at the Palazzo della Ragione, a medieval market hall, town hall, and the Palace of Justice (a UNESCO World Heritage site). Artisanal gelati, wine bars, and historic craft businesses share the streets with designer brand shops and downtown malls that reveal themselves in the most surprising places. Padua is a city so refreshingly authentic, so full of art and history, and so rich in the culture of wine and food that we immediately added it to our list of mustvisit-again cities.
Close by Padua, you will find two very special wineries: Cantina Colli Euganei—try their Fossili Pinot Grigio and Fossili Pinot Blanc (both $18.99)—and Reassi—try their beautiful red blends, Rosso Tre Frazione ($34.99) and their Rosso Sparviere ($31.99).
Piazza de la Ragione (photo by Carol Fletcher)
Scrovegni Chapel (photo by Sylvia Jansen)
Street art in Padua (photo by Carol Fletcher)
Coonawarra, Australia by Tina Jones
The first clue that you have entered special territory is the vivid red soil: terra rossa runs along a mere 1.5 x 25 km flat strip straddling South Australia and Victoria. These red crumbly soils—that overlay free-draining limestone and a muchneeded water table—have defined the distinct character of the wines of Coonawarra. The region is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, but Coonawarra also excels in premium Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Riesling wines. However, for a region so celebrated, it is a bit off the beaten path. The main highway between Melbourne and Adelaide skirts north of Coonawarra, the coastal roads lead to the Great Ocean Road, and the Twelve Apostles run south of the region. We took a turn off the highway and found that although Coonawarra is easy to miss, once you have visited, it is hard to forget.
Coonawarra has a beautiful, easygoing culture that appeals to wine lovers and families alike. Its two dozen wineries include one of our favourite Australian winemakers, our longstanding partner Majella. For any Manitoban, the welcome at Majella is like visiting family! Prof (as Brian is called) and Ros Lyn have a soft spot for Winnipeg and love visitors from our corner of Canada. Navigating along Coonawarra’s wine trail is easy and offers incredible experiences, including wine tastings, cooking classes, winery tours, and make-your-ownblend experiences. The town of Penola has choices for laidback but lovely hotels and fine dining. Hikers will appreciate the Rail Trail, an easy, level trek that runs from Penola township through Coonawarra. This tiny area is a small piece of heaven.
Some of our favourites by Majella: Sparkling Shiraz ($46.99); The Malleea Cabernet/Shiraz ($91.99); GPL68 Cabernet Sauvignon ($130.99); Cabernet Sauvignon ($51.99); The Musician ($26.99)
The historic Coonawarra Railway Station
Prof Lyn (right) and his brother Anthony entertain in the Tasting Room at Majella (Photo courtesy of Wine Australia)
Terra rossa soils in Coonawarra (Photo courtesy of Wine Australia)
The Pfalz, Germany by Gary Hewitt
The Pfalz, Germany’s second-largest wine region, lies immediately north of Alsace, France. The low-lying Haardt mountains protect the area from strong weather from the northwest. The resulting rain shadow and high levels of sunshine create a warm, dry climate capable of growing figs, lemons, and kiwi fruits! This narrow wine region, planted on the hillsides and rolling land leading east to the Rhine River, runs for 85 km north to south but averages only 7 km wide. The Weinstrasse (The Wine Route), created in 1935, links all the key wine villages and serves as a conduit for both drivers and cyclists.
In March, almond trees blossom in glorious pink and white, marking the start of the season’s first wine festival, Mandelblütenfest (Almond Blossom Festival). Many more small local outdoor wine festivals are celebrated before the orange and yellow colours of autumn blanket the hills. In September, the Wurstmarkt (Sausage Market!), the largest wine festival in the world, attracts 600,000 visitors to the central wine hub and spa town of Bad Dürkheim, which is also home to the world’s largest wine cask, the Dürheimer Riesenfass, which could hold 1.7 million litres of wine!
The city of Neustadt divides the region into the highly regarded Northern Mittelhaardt region with its legendary producers and a southern half of up-and-comers with a rapidly growing reputation for quality. Top producers off the Weinstrasse, such as our good friends at Weingut Lingenfelder, reward a minor detour. A relatively large number of estates are open for drop-in tastings. Riesling, as elsewhere in Germany, is the most planted grape, but the range of varieties is broad, including Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), Chardonnay, and regional gems such as Scheurebe, Rieslaner, Regent, and Dornfelder.
We get it.
Many things in life are better when paired with a glass of wine. Pairing it with reading your insurance policy…not so much.
Like wine however, insurance is good to have.
Rainer Lingenfelder in his vineyards (courtesy of Lingenfelder)
Lingenfelder wines Bird Label Riesling ($25.99); Hare Label Gewürztraminer ($25.99); Ganymed Spätburgunder ($55.99); Grosskarlbacher Osterberg Grauburgunder ($37.99)
Wurstmarket, the world’s largest wine festival (photo by Heimatlichter GmbH)
Almond Blossom Festival (photo by Kurt Groß)
Douro Valley by
Jill Kwiatkoski
The drive from Porto up the Douro Valley is a very easy and well-marked 1.5-hour journey that showcases the countryside, magnificent bridges, and architecture of countless towns and villages to explore along the way. When the landscape of the Douro Valley opens, the terrain is breathtaking and unique. The vineyards are meticulously carved out of the hillsides, precisely curated in terraces with the perfect aspect of slope and exposure. It is simply amazing to see this intricate landscaping up close.
Touring the Duoro, you are struck by the challenge of growing grapes in this extremely unique microclimate and challenging terrain. As you wind through the valley, vistas of the mighty Douro River below remind you that river vessels filled with barrels of Port have been exporting Portugal’s wine and culture to the world for centuries. Learning about the history of Port and its international reach really brings home the impact of such a small country on the global wine market.
Incredible port wines produced in the Douro Valley: Fonseca Terra Prima Organic Port ($35.99); Vasques de Carvalho LBV Port ($48.99); Graham’s Vintage Port ($71.99/375mL); Quinta do Infantado Vintage Port ($116.99); Vasques de Carvalho 40 Year Old Tawny Port ($405.99)
A traditional Portuguese Rabelo boat travels the Duoro River
Terraced vines in the Duoro Valley (Photo by Jill Kwiatkoski)
Top Tips for Wine Travel
Advice from Jones & Company’s Travelling Sommeliers
Get the most from your winery visit with these top tips!
Time of year
Winemaking starts in the vineyards, so avoid harvest (late August to October in the Northern Hemisphere; February to April in the Southern Hemisphere). If you are travelling in Europe, avoid August. Not only is the winery staff also on holidays, the Mediterranean countries (Spain, Greece, Italy, and Portugal) are also unbearably hot. We recommend spring or early summer, when you can see the buds growing on the vines, or after harvest, when the bulk of the work is done and the winery staff have time to spend with visitors.
Do your homework
Knowing what style of wine to expect is a sign of respect. For example, travelling to France’s Loire Valley is rewarding—if you love livelyacidity whites and medium-bodied reds. If you only drink full-bodied reds, you might want to choose another destination (or open yourself to new experiences).
Book ahead and keep your appointment
In small places, the vineyard manager, winemaker, owner, tank washer, and guest services director can all be the same person. If they know you are coming, they can organize their day around your visit. Treat your wine appointment like any business meeting: call if you will be late or if your plans need to change. Be on time!
Budget time to get lost
Grape growing and winemaking are rural pursuits in villages and remote estates, almost never in cities. Unless you are hiring a private car and driver (also an option), you need a rental car and good directions. GPS occasionally fails in rural wine regions, so bring a backup printed map or plan. Also, take note: it takes longer to travel 10 km in rural Italy or France than it does in Canada!
Learn to spit
Especially for the driver, it is important not to ingest more than a few millilitres. Spitting is also a sign of respect and enables you to taste the last wine as well as the first.
Support the winery
Many small wineries do not charge for visits, but even if they do, the cost of hosting visits is significant. Purchase a bottle or something from their offerings.
Ask the JoCo team for advice
We travel the world! We can give you a list of our favourite winemakers in the region—and we can sometimes make an introduction for you.
COLLEGE MANITOBA WINE&DRINKS
Wine Education Online!
Do you live out of town— or do you just prefer learning online?
WDCM now offers selected WSET classes online! Online classes are designed as an independent study program. Classes are led by a Wine & Spirit Education TrustTM (WSET) educator who will be available to guide you through the material, provide feedback, and answer any questions.
WSET Level 3 Award in Wines (ONLINE):
WSET 3 is an advanced-level qualification for wine enthusiasts or professionals working in the wine or hospitality industry. This course offers deep study and detailed understanding of the world of wine, including the key production factors of location, grape growing, winemaking, maturation, and bottling, as well as how and why these factors affect the style, quality, and price of wines. The course also builds your ability to assess wines accurately and to use your understanding confidently to explain wine style and quality.
This online program, led by a dedicated WSET tutor, runs over 9 weeks (plus the exam). Although the program is structured, you can access the modules on your own schedule—there are no set class times. Anticipate a minimum requirement of 84 hours of study time, including 30 hours of online delivery. WDCM provides an in-person wine-tasting workshop, hosts the exam, and offers an optional in-person Exam Prep Lab covering theory and tasting. Upon successful completion, you will receive a WSET certificate and lapel pin and will be able to use the associated WSET-certified logo.
Dates: Classes start March 24, 2025; Tasting Tutorial: Saturday, April 5 (9 am–5 pm); Exam: Monday, June 9.
Cost: $1,400 plus GST, includes course fees, WSET study materials, and one full-day, in-person tasting tutorial.
WESTERN CANADA’S PREMIER WINE AND DRINKS EDUCATION FACILITY OFFERS
WINE COURSES FOR EVERYONE FROM THE HOBBYIST TO THE PROFESSIONAL.
The optional Exam Prep Lab is intensive preparation for the challenging WSET 3 Wines qualification exam. Lab sessions are led by WDCM’s WSET Level 3 Certified Educators, who focus on avoiding common errors and approaching both the tasting and theory components of the exam. Candidates will gain practice and personalized feedback on exam-style questions and on applying knowledge to plan and write answers for maximum marks. Through tutored blind tasting, you will calibrate your palate and be able to avoid common errors and pitfalls.
Dates: Workshop 1: Saturday, April 26 (3–5 p.m.); Workshop 2: Saturday, May 24 (3–5 pm).
Cost: $250.00 for two workshops; each includes a tasting portion.
Registration is limited to WDCM candidates in WSET 3 Wines or by permission of WDCM.
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WSET 3 Exam Prep Lab | New for 2025!
Travel Spotlight: Portugal
By Jill Kwiatkoski, Sommelier (CAPS)
Have you heard? Everyone’s going to Portugal! Here’s why.
It’s
affordable and easy to navigate.
Before Portugal becomes the next Spain, move it up your bucket list and travel there within the next year or two. At the moment, it is affordable to stay in beautiful hotels and to dine at some amazing places—but in the next year or two, it will catch up to other European hot spots. So don’t wait!
Portugal’s roadways are beautiful, the signage is very clear, and the locals are extremely kind and helpful (they are the Canadians of Europe). Cities are very easy to navigate with public transit and ride-sharing options, but don’t be afraid to rent a car and drive from Lisbon to Porto—especially if you want to visit wineries (which are outside the big cities). The drive from Porto to the Douro Valley is worth every penny—the winding roads and terraced hillsides are awe-inspiring.
History is of the essence.
Portugal has long been a seafaring and international trading nation. Centuries-old national traditions exist alongside international trade influences, making for an interesting cultural mix.
With more than 1,700 km of coastline, many of Portugal’s most important culinary traditions draw from the ocean. There are said to be a “thousand ways” to prepare cod (bacalhau), a national treasure they call the king of fishes. A host of other fish and seafood are also grilled, stewed, or made into traditional soups. The land offers lamb stew, sausages, the famous Pata Negra (black pork), and Barrosã beef. Gardens and grains offer vegetarian options. Regional cheeses from sheep, goats, and cows range from tangy, unaged raw milk cheeses to harder, aged versions for an array of delicious alternatives.
In the north, these distinctly Portuguese traditions seem to stand incongruously beside English names. Port Houses such as Taylor Fladgate and Graham pay tribute to the centuries-old trade alliance between Portugal and England: English Port shippers have worked with regional growers and winemakers to build a global reputation for fortified wines. But make no mistake: the names might be English, but the place is its own. There’s no English Stilton cheese to pair with your Port, but the Rabaçal or an aged Queijo de Cabra Transmontano will be divine. Portuguese history is there for you to discover, so lean in and savour it in a whole new light.
It’s a wine geek’s dream!
1. TÁVORA-VAROSA 2. LAFÕES
3. ENCOSTAS D’AIRE 4. CARCAVELOS 5. LOURINHÃ
6. ARRUDA
7. TORRES VEDRAS
8. ALENQUER
9. BUCELAS
10. COLARES
11. CARCAVELOS
12. SETÚBAL
13. LAGOS
14. PORTIMÃO
Portugal stays true to its viticulture history, which means that you are going to discover some indigenous grape varieties that you have never heard of: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Jaen, Fernao Pires, Sousão, Encruzado, Moscatel, Alvariñho, Azal, Loureiro—the list goes on! Go with an open mind and try something new.
For a crash course, we recommend:
• Delaforce 2023 Alvariñho, Douro ($25.99)
• Quinta da Pacheca 2023 Moscatel Galego Branco, Douro ($23.99)
• Quinta das Maias 2021 Jaen/Touriga Nacional, Dão ($21.99)
Viana do Castelo
Castelo Branco Portalegre
Portugal produces many indigenous grapes that you will experience for the first time in a broad range of styles and price points:
• WHITE: Adega 2023 Indigena Branco, Dão ($17.99)
• ROSÉ: Bacalhôa 2023 JP Syrah Rosé Azeitao, Setúbal ($17.99)
• RED: Medeiros 2018 Ares de Medeiros Vinho Tinto, Alentejano ($25.99)
• BUBBLES: Caves São João 2019 Bruto Reserva, Bairrada ($26.99)
• DESSERT: Bacalhôa 2020 Colheita Moscatel de Setúbal ($19.99)
• PORT: Delaforce His Eminence 10-year Tawny Port, Porto ($49.99)
What to research before you go:
• What wine regions are easily accessible from major cities? Porto is also on the very southern edge of Vinho Verde and just north of the Dão, so the drive to wineries is only 1–2 hours away north or south! Lisbon is also very accessible to wineries—Bairrada to the north is only a couple hours away; Setúbal is just a 40-minute ride over the massive suspension bridge above the Tagas Estuary. (We recommend Bacalhôa winery on the peninsula, which boasts an array of wines, a 15th-century palace, and art collections filled with Portuguese tile art, African art, Art Deco, as well as Roman, Greek, and Renaissance art.) Ask your hotel or look online for the best day trips from Lisbon and Porto to fill your day.
• How will I get to the wineries? Remember, wineries all over the world (like farms here in Canada) are located outside of cities in rural areas. Rent a car, hire a driver, take an Uber, or join an organized bus trip to get to wineries!
• What wines will I like? Taste some before you go so you have an idea of what to expect. We are happy to put together a Portugal tasting pack for you and your travel companions to try out before your voyage.
Down in the Dumplings!
By Mike Muirhead, Sylvia Jansen, and Gary Hewitt
by Ian McCausland
One perk to living in Manitoba is our richly diverse food scene. Our multicultural community offers us global food experiences in every neighbourhood. Within each of those food cultures, we can all agree on one thing: everyone loves a dumpling! Whether we call them perogies, ravioli,
gyoza, or khinkali, every culinary culture has realized that creating little dough pockets filled with local ingredients is a delicacy. Three of our Sommeliers—Mike, Sylvia, and Gary—got together to share their favourite take on the dumpling.
Photos
MIKE’S PEROGIES THREE WAYS
Dough
3 cups flour
1 cup warm water
1 tsp salt
Make your dough (see the “Making Dumpling Dough” sidebar). Roll out prepared dough very thin using a rolling pin or pasta maker. Cut dough into circles of your desired diameter. Add 1 tbsp of your desired filling, fold the dough over the filling into half-moons, and pinch the edges tightly together so it is completely sealed. Boil in salted water for 3 minutes and remove using a mesh strainer. Serve hot with melted butter or pan-fry for crispy perogies.
NOTE: The dough recipe makes 3 dozen large perogies. Each filling recipe makes enough for 1 dozen perogies.
MAKING DUMPLING DOUGH
Dumpling dough has two components: dry ingredients (flour and salt) and wet ingredients (water and/or eggs). Each of the recipes has slightly different ingredients, but the technique is the same for all of them:
1. Combine the dry and the wet ingredients and mix them until a shaggy dough forms.
2. Knead the dough by hand on a well-floured surface or in an electric stand mixer with a dough hook attachment until it is smooth and elastic (4-6 minutes). You can’t really knead it too much. The more egg in your dough, the longer you will have to knead it to make it workable. Dough too sticky? Add a little more flour, a tablespoon at a time. Too dry and not coming together? Add a little water, a tablespoon at a time.
3. Once your dough is smooth and elastic, wrap it in plastic wrap or cover it loosely with plastic wrap in a very lightly oiled bowl. Let it rest for at least 30 minutes. The longer you let your dough rest, the easier it will be to work with.
Cheddar Cheese and Potato
5 large russet potatoes, peeled and diced
½ onion finely diced
2 cups Bothwell Old Cheddar, shredded butter for cooking and serving
Place potatoes in a pot of cold water. Heat to boiling, add salt, and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook for 10–15 minutes until potatoes are fork-tender. While your potatoes are boiling, heat a frying pan over medium heat. Melt 1 tbsp butter and soften onions for 5 minutes (don’t let them brown). When potatoes are done, drain the water and mash them. Fold in the cheese and onions until the cheese is melted and distributed throughout. Refrigerate filling until it is cool enough to work with (it can be refrigerated for up to 3 days).
Sweet Potato, Caramelized Onion, and Bacon
3 large sweet potatoes
5 bacon rashers, chopped
2 large yellow onions
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp brown sugar
1½ tsp dried thyme (or 1 tsp fresh) salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 325°F. Pierce the sweet potato skin all over with a fork. Bake for approximately 1 hour until fork-tender. Let cool before slicing them in half lengthwise and carving out the orange flesh. Discard skins and mash the flesh with a fork.
While sweet potatoes are baking, trim the top and bottom off the onion, slice it lengthwise and peel the skin off. Slice each half from top to bottom into ¼-inch thick pieces. Heat butter and olive oil in a frying pan on medium-low. Add onions and turn the pan to low. Slowly caramelize onions, stirring frequently, for 35–40 minutes (while the potatoes are baking). Onions should be dark brown but not burnt. Add brown sugar and continue to cook for 5–10 minutes more.
Chop bacon, fry until crispy, and pat dry with paper towel. Combine mashed sweet potato, cooked bacon, caramelized onions, and dried thyme. Season to taste.
Mushroom and Gruyère
2 cups fresh cremini mushrooms, sliced
½ cup shitake mushrooms, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbsp butter
1 cup Gruyère, finely shredded salt and pepper to taste
Melt butter in a frying pan on medium-low. Add garlic and cook for one minute. Add mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Cook slowly until nicely browned but still retaining moisture. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let cool slightly, then fold in shredded Gruyère.
PAIR WITH:
Girlan 2022 Chardonnay Alto Adige, Italy ($33.99)
LangeTwins 2020 Family Grown Pinot Noir California, USA ($28.99)
SYLVIA’S ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH RAVIOLI
Makes 6 servings
Pasta Dough
4 cups all-purpose flour
6 eggs, room temperature
Filling
1 butternut squash
2 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp shallots, minced
1 tbsp butter
¼ tsp sea salt
3 tbsp heavy cream
3 tbsp Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated
Pinch white pepper
Pinch nutmeg, grated
Topping
cup butter
12 fresh sage leaves, julienned
Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
Traditionally, pasta dough is made by forming a pile with the flour and making a well in the centre for the eggs. Start by adding 4 beaten room-temperature eggs and mixing by hand or electric mixer. If the dough is too crumbly, add one more beaten egg. Follow the directions in the “Making Dumpling Dough” text box for kneading and resting dough.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Peel and de-seed the butternut squash. Cut into 1-inch cubes, toss with olive oil, and roast for 30 minutes until fork tender. Purée in a food processor or blender. Sauté shallots in butter on medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add puréed squash and cook for 15 minutes, stirring to avoid browning. Stir in cream on medium-low heat and cook for 5–7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and fold in cheese and nutmeg. Let cool.
Roll out pasta. If using a pasta maker, roll out to the secondthinnest setting. Cut strips of pasta to about 5.5 cm wide, mark squares, then brush one side with egg wash. Place about 1 tsp of filling in the centre of each square segment. Lay another strip of dough over, using the edge of your hand to seal one side, then press all air out and seal the other 3 sides. Cut with a serrated rolling pasta cutter and pinch gently with floured fingers to seal. Lay ravioli out in a single layer on a cookie sheet dusted with flour. Cook in boiling well-salted water until the ravioli rises to the surface (3 minutes).
Melt butter in a pan on medium-low heat, swirling continuously until it turns light brown (just a minute or two). Either toss the ravioli in the brown butter or drizzle it over top. Sprinkle with julienned fresh sage, cracked black pepper, and grated cheese.
Uncooked ravioli can be refrigerated overnight or frozen in a single layer on a cookie sheet and then stored in freezer bags.
PAIR WITH:
Lelièvre nv Leucquois Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs, France ($34.99)
Ormanni 2021 Chianti Classico, Italy ($36.99)
GARY’S PORK GYOZA
1½ cups green cabbage, shredded
½ tsp salt
450 g ground pork
1 cup green onions, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tsp ginger, grated
1 tsp sesame oil
1 tbsp cornstarch
2 tsp soy sauce
20 circular gyoza/wonton wrappers
3 tsp vegetable oil
¼ cup water toasted sesame oil
Mix cabbage with salt and allow to sit for 20 minutes to draw out moisture. Squeeze excess water from cabbage and combine with all remaining ingredients.
To fold: Place a gyoza wrapper on your upturned palm (left hand for right-handed people). Dip a finger in water and draw a circle around the outer edge of the wrapper. Place a tablespoon or less of filling in the centre of the wrapper, keeping the damp edges clear. Fold the wrapper over the filling and press the damp edges together, forming pleats to seal. A classic gyoza has 7 pleats, but this can be challenging—beginners can aim for 3-4. Place formed gyoza flat-side down on a tray sprinkled with corn starch.
Cover unused dumpling wrappers with a damp cloth to keep them from drying out.
To cook: Heat vegetable and sesame oil in a large lidded skillet over medium-high heat. Add gyoza flat-side down and cook until golden (3-5 minutes). Add water and cover. Steam until water evaporates (3-4 minutes)—the steam will cook the pork. The flat side should be crispy, and the other side should be translucent.
For a dipping sauce, combine equal parts soy sauce and rice wine vinegar. For some spice, add chili oil to taste.
* Gyoza skins (also called wonton or Gow Gee wrappers) are available at Asian grocery stores such as Lucky Supermarket or ING Supermarket.
BONUS DUMPLINGS! Find digital versions of these recipes and our recipe for Georgian Mushroom Khinkali and a wine pairing on The Cellar Door recipe blog online:
PAIR WITH: Staffelter Hof 2022 Paradies Riesling Mosel, Germany ($27.99)
Erste + Neue 2022 Kalterersee Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy ($28.99)
culinary partners
1. 529 Wellington: Michelle enjoys Miyazaki A5 Wagyu Ribeye served with mirin butter sauce and wasabi mayonnaise. Royal Baerii Caviar adds a splash of creamy nuttiness and wintery ocean notes of seaweed and salt water. Maison Harbour 2021 Pommard en Mareau (France) shows a classical style of forest floor, cherry, meat and wild mushroom, and the palate shows off powerful powdered tannins and a medley of blackberry and red fruit.
2. Alena Rustic Italian: Slow-Simmered Meatballs in house-made tomato sauce pairs beautifully with Il Palazzo Chianti (Italy).
Restö at Thermëa Spa: Brooke suggests pairing the Blue Mountain Estate Gamay Noir (Canada) with Chef Michael’s Berkshire Pork Chop.
4. Amsterdam Tea Room: Sample the Brussels & Potatoes with blue cheese, toum, radishes, and spiced seeds paired with Pascual Toso Limited Edition Malbec (Argentina).
5. Blaze Restaurant & Lounge at the Delta Hotel: Head Chef Shawn Jackson recommends pairing McManis Cabernet Sauvignon (California) with one of Blaze’s most popular dishes: Truffle Gnocchi—handmade ricotta gnocchi tossed with truffle mushrooms, baby arugula, cream, Grana Padano cheese, and fresh thyme.
6. Bluestone Cottage Café & Bakery: The cheesy (inside and out) Grilled Ham and Cheese sandwich pairs just right with Selva Capuzza’s Chiaretto Rosato (Italy).
7. Cibo Waterfront Café: The Lemon Alfredo Pasta, a delightful pasta dish featuring crème fraîche, lemon, spinach, marinated tomatoes, pecorino, and spaghetti, is thoughtfully paired with house-made bruschetta and a bottle of Ventisquero Reserva Carménère (Chile).
3.
8. Frankie’s Italian: What is better than bubbles? Alexander pairs Giusti Asolo Prosecco Superiore (Italy) with the Seared Salmon atop a potato and beet rosti, topped with fennel tomato basil salad, and finished with white wine cream sauce.
9. Peasant Cookery: General Manager Flora Giordani enjoys her Steak Tartare with the Blue Mountain Estate Gamay Noir (Canada). The wine’s red-fruited elegance complements the rich, savoury depth of the finely minced beef and Bordelaise sauce, while its earthy and sagebrush notes echo the tartare’s fresh shallots and pickles.
10. Junction 59 Roadhouse: Devin pairs his 9 oz sirloin (with mashed potatoes and gravy and seasonal vegetables) with River Retreat Merlot (Australia).
11. 529 Uptown: General Manager Ron Hung suggests pairing your 529 Meatloaf (served with Doug’s mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy) with CignoMoro 80 Vecchie Vigne Primitivo (Italy).
12. Nola: Chef Emily Butcher pairs Pinuaga’s La Senda Red Blend (Spain) with Roasted Beets served with sunflower miso, umeboshi maple lapsang vinaigrette, shaved fennel, persimmon, candied sunflower seed, serrano pepper, and crispy prosciutto.
13. Velvet Glove at Fairmont Winnipeg: What’s cozier on a cold winter night than Fairmont’s Gourmet Fondue experience? Pairing it with Migration Pinot Noir (California).
Curiosity and Care
By Sylvia Jansen, DipWSET, CSW, Sommelier
When travel plans include a wine region, a winery visit almost always makes sense. My colleagues and I are often asked what winery visit we might recommend around a particular destination. The wine region or winery might be the reason they chose their destination, or it might be a side trip from another travel adventure. Whatever the reason, the question about where to go is a great start. Only a start, mind you, but a great one.
I think a good question to ask after “where to go” is, “how should I act when I get there?” People almost never ask me about winery protocols, but I will say that whether someone is on their first trip to Italy or returning to a familiar wine region, a bit of etiquette is always useful. And by “etiquette,” I am not referring to the list of dos and do-nots of winery visits and wine tasting. I am referring instead to two important guidelines: curiosity and care. If you take both with you, the experience can become a great deal richer.
Curiosity is what takes you to a winery visit (unless you have been dragged or otherwise coerced by an enthusiastic partner or friend). A few months ago, I was approached by a friend and customer who was travelling to Bordeaux for the first time. She was curious because she has always enjoyed Saint-Émilion reds and was looking for a winery excursion from the city. While it is straightforward to book a half-day tour from Bordeaux into wine country, from there, the choices are staggering: the region boasts thousands of wineries dominated by a few high-profile Châteaux, a long and complex history, and hugely varied wines in quality and style. Where does one start?
Our customer started with her own questions about the region, and I followed with a few of my own: If you are driving, do you know how to spit? Do you want to visit a winery that is shiny and commercial or something farmer-cum-winemaker? From there, I made a couple of recommendations. A few weeks later, I received a
note that said they had taken the 45-minute drive from downtown Bordeaux to Château Haut-Fleur Gaussens, had a wonderful visit, and then drove to the town of SaintÉmilion to stroll its historic streets before heading back into the city. It was exactly one winery visit followed by one more stop, but it was a rich experience. It had started with curiosity.
Curiosity and a bit of learning take us a long way in wine travel. Bordeaux is not the only complex wine region on the planet. Do you have an idea of what to expect? Having an idea of the regional wine style, for example, means you will not be expecting a full-throttle Cabernet Sauvignon in crisp white wine country.
Care is how we approach a winery visit. Care means taking enough time to visit well. It means asking a few questions and hearing what is being said about the winery and the wines on offer. Care is also about navigating the tricky bit of being poured a wine that is not at all to your liking. (Hint: use your filter. Whether you are being hosted by a summer student who is staffing the tasting bar, the winemaker, or a family member, everyone wants to be treated with respect.) There is always something to be gained by hearing what is being said about the wines on offer and why they are the way they are.
If you want the list of dos, do-nots and suggested wineryvisiting behaviours, find our checklist on page 47—or ask a well-travelled Sommelier. But if you take along on your wine travels the cornerstones of curiosity and care, it makes for light packing but a rich experience.
So here’s to you, always putting your best foot forward.
