Indan Cosmetologists Journal Digital May-2025 issue by The Aestheticians Journal

Collagen:

The Secret to Youthful,

Glowing Skin

Summer Skincare Issues: A Season of Sensitivity and Challenges

Nutritional Support for Optimizing Hair Health and Structural Integrity

EXECUTIVE EDITOR & PUBLISHER DOM DANIEL

CORPORATE OFFICE

22, SHREEJI BHAVAN, 275-279, SAMUEL STREET, MASJID BUNDER (W), MUMBAI-4000 03, INDIA.

EMAIL: info@indiancosmetologistjournal.com

WEBSITE: indiancosmetologistjournal.online

PRINTED, PUBLISHED, EDITED AND OWNED BY DOM DANIEL

PRINTED AT SWASTIK PRINTER, GALA NO.9 & 10, VISHAL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, BHANDUP (WEST), MUMBAI400078.

PUBLISHED AT 22 SHREEJI BHAVAN, 275/279, SAMUEL STREET, MASJID BUNDER (WEST), MUMBAI - 400003. INDIA.

“INDIAN COSMETOLOGIST JOURNAL” TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR UNSOLICITED PHOTOGRAPHS OR MATERIAL

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS, UNLESS OTHERWISE INDICATED, ARE USED FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSE ONLY.

VIEWS EXPRESSED IN THIS JOURNAL ARE THOSE OF THE CONTRIBUTORS AND NOT OF THE PUBLISHER. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PARTS OF TEXTS OR PHOTOGRAPHY IS PROHIBITED. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND ART ARE SELECTED AT THE DISCRETION OF THE PUBLISHER FREE OF CHARGE (ADVERTISING EXCLUDED). WHETHER PUBLISHED OR NOT, NO MATERIAL WILL BE RETURNED AND REMAINS THE PROPERTY OF THE PUBLISHING HOUSE, WHICH MAY MAKE USE OF IT AS SEEN FIT. THIS MAY INCLUDE THE WITHDRAWAL OF PUBLICATION RIGHTS TO OTHER PUBLISHING HOUSES.

PUBLISHED FOR THE PERIOD OF MAY -2025

The Seasonal Guide To Skin And Hair Health: An Integrated Aesthetic Approach

As we transition into the warmer months, adjusting skincare and hair care routines is essential to address the challenges posed by increased sun exposure, humidity, and temperature changes. This issue outlines effective strategies to maintain both skin and hair health throughout the summer.

Seasonal shifts can disrupt the skin natural balance, often leading to dryness, irritation, or excess oil. To support skin health, promote collagen production with retinoids, vitamin C, and peptides. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is vital to protect against photoaging and reduce the risk of sun damage. For oily or acne-prone skin, gentle cleansing, regular exfoliation, and oil-free moisturizers can help manage breakouts and support the skin barrier.

SEASONAL

SHIFTS

CAN DISRUPT THE SKIN NATURAL BALANCE, OFTEN LEADING TO DRYNESS, IRRITATION, OR EXCESS OIL.

Hair care also requires extra attention during the summer. UV exposure can damage the hair cuticle, leading to dryness and brittleness. Protective products with UV filters, along with regular moisturizing treatments, help maintain hydration. A diet rich in biotin, zinc, and omega-3 fatty acids also contributes to hair strength and health. By integrating medical insights with practical solutions, this holistic approach ensures skin and hair remain healthy and rejuvenated, helping you stay glowing all season long.

- DOM DANIEL EXECUTIVE EDITOR & PUBLISHER

COLLAGEN: THE SECRET TO YOUTHFUL, GLOWING SKIN

SKINCARE ISSUES: A SEASON OF SENSITIVITY AND CHALLENGES

COLLAGEN: THE SECRET TO YOUTHFUL, GLOWING SKIN

INTRODUCTION

Collagen is the true secret to youthful, glowing skin. Making up about 70% of the skin dry weight, it forms a delicate yet incredibly resilient network right beneath the surface, giving the skin its firmness, elasticity, and hydration. It is the foundation that holds everything together, ensuring the skin stays smooth, firm, and bouncy — all the qualities of that coveted, youthful texture. There are two key types of collagen working in perfect harmony: Type I and Type III. Type I is the powerhouse, providing strength and that enviable smoothness, while Type III brings flexibility and aids in tissue repair. Together, they create a perfectly balanced matrix that gives the skin its natural bounce and silken feel. In youthful skin, this collagen network is dense and finely organized, gifting the skin with that plump, soft, radiant glow. It acts like a shield, helping the skin bounce back from daily stresses while maintaining its smooth, glowing texture. But after the 20s, the production of collagen begins to slow down, gradually affecting the skin firmness and elasticity. This natural shift is what leads to the subtle changes in texture and tone over time. 1

THE IMPACT OF AGING ON

COLLAGEN

The aging process gradually becomes more evident in the skin, shaped by the passage of time and the impact of external factors. A central player in this transformation is collagen, the protein responsible for the skin firmness, elasticity, and youthful appearance. As we age, collagen production naturally declines, and this process is influenced by two main factors: intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is the body natural, genetically programmed process. Starting in the mid-20s, collagen production begins to slow by about 1 to 1.5% each year. This steady decline results in skin that becomes thinner and less resilient. As collagen

fibers loosen, facial contours soften, fine lines begin to appear, and the skin gradually loses its firmness and smooth texture. It also becomes less responsive to everyday movements, contributing to the early signs of aging. Extrinsic aging, also known as photoaging, is fueled by environmental factors—most notably sun exposure. Ultraviolet (UV) rays activate enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which break down collagen faster than the body can replenish it. In addition, pollutants and toxins in the environment contribute to oxidative stress, further damaging collagen and accelerating skin aging. Together, these intrinsic and extrinsic processes reshape the skin architecture—leading to noticeable changes in texture, elasticity, and overall vitality over time. 2

VISIBLE SIGNS OF COLLAGEN LOSS IN THE SKIN

As collagen production declines, the skin begins to visibly reflect the effects, with changes becoming increasingly apparent. Among the most prominent indicators of this collagen depletion are:

1. Loss of Tightness and Elasticity: The skin loses volume and becomes more fragile, gradually losing its capacity to regain its original contour and firmness. 3

2. Fine Lines and Creases:

As the structural integrity of collagen weakens, fine lines begin to emerge, particularly around the eyes, mouth, and forehead, deepening into more defined creases. 3

3. Sagging and Softening:

A reduction in collagen causes the skin to lose its firmness, resulting in a softer, more relaxed appearance, particularly around the jawline and neck. 3

UV RADIATION AND ITS EFFECT ON COLLAGEN

In younger years, the skin is like a smooth, strong canvas, with plenty of collagen to protect it from the sun harmful rays. Collagen helps absorb and block UV damage, keeping the skin soft, radiant, and smooth. Along with elastin and antioxidants, collagen works to fight off free radicals, maintaining the skin natural beauty and vitality. As time goes on, however, skin collagen levels start to drop, making it less able to defend against UV damage. The collagen fibers become weaker, and prolonged sun exposure speeds up the breakdown of the skin structure. Over time, this makes the skin more prone to age spots, rough patches, and a loss of that fresh, youthful glow. Protecting the skin from the sun is even more important with age. Doing so helps preserve the remaining collagen and keeps the skin looking healthy and beautiful for as long as possible. 3

4. Increased Dryness and Fragility: Collagen loss diminishes the skin ability to retain moisture, leading to a drier, more delicate texture that is more susceptible to irritation. 3

5. Uneven Texture: The breakdown of collagen leads to a loss of smoothness and radiance, causing the skin to appear dull, rough, and uneven in texture. 3

APPROACHES TO BOOSTING SKIN COLLAGEN AND MITIGATING SIGNS OF AGING

Oral Collagen Supplements

Treatments such as oral collagen supplements offer the body a rich source of essential amino acids, providing the building blocks necessary for stimulating collagen production from within.³ These supplements help support skin structural integrity, improving elasticity and texture over time.

Topical Treatments: Retinoids, Peptides, and Vitamin C

Complementing this, topical treatments like retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C serums work at a cellular level to encourage skin renewal, enhance collagen synthesis, and promote a smoother, more youthful complexion.³ ⁴ By stimulating collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, these treatments work synergistically to restore firmness and vitality, revealing a radiant and rejuvenated appearance.

Aesthetic Procedures For Collagen Stimulation

Microneedling

Microneedling uses tiny needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, triggering a healing response that promotes the production of collagen and elastin,

Laser Resurfacing

Laser resurfacing, such as Fractional CO₂ or Erbium lasers, works by delivering heat to deeper skin layers, stimulating collagen production while improving texture and firmness, especially for concerns like fine lines and sun damage.⁶

Platelet-Rich Plasma (Prp) Therapy

Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) therapy involves extracting and processing the patient own blood to concentrate platelets, which are then injected back into the skin, encouraging collagen synthesis and enhancing skin tone and elasticity.⁷

Radiofrequency (Rf) Skin Tightening

Radiofrequency (RF) skin tightening uses energy to heat deeper skin layers, boosting collagen and tightening the skin, making it ideal for lifting and firming the face and neck.⁸

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels, which involve exfoliating acids, remove the outermost skin layers, promoting regeneration and collagen production to improve texture, pigmentation, and fine lines.⁹

Dermal Fillers

Dermal fillers, commonly hyaluronic acid-based, help volumize the skin while also stimulating collagen production as they gradually dissolve, contributing to long-term skin enhancement.¹⁰

These procedures, whether used alone or in combination, can significantly improve skin vitality and appearance.

STRATEGIES TO PREVENT COLLAGEN DEGRADATION

Sun Protection

Consistently applying broad-spectrum sunscreen protects the skin from harmful UV rays, which are one of the leading causes of collagen breakdown and premature aging. Avoiding excessive sun exposure and wearing protective clothing further shield the skin. ¹¹

Diet Rich In Antioxidants

A well-balanced diet rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C and E, helps protect collagen fibers from oxidative damage caused by environmental pollutants. ¹¹

Hydration And Exercise

Staying hydrated is essential for maintaining skin elasticity, while regular exercise enhances circulation, promoting nutrient delivery to skin cells. ¹¹

Stress Management

Reducing stress levels can help preserve the skin collagen network. Incorporating these preventive measures into daily life can significantly reduce the visible effects of aging and ensure collagen remains strong and resilient for longer.¹¹

CONCLUSION

Although collagen naturally declines with age, its production can be enhanced through supplementation and targeted interventions. Collagens are essential proteins involved in cellular functions like signaling, proliferation, and maintaining the structural integrity of connective tissues. Type I collagen, the most abundant form, plays a key role in skin strength and structure. While collagen fibres can last for years in the skin, they are vulnerable to damage from both chronological and environmental factors. The decline in collagen, caused by chrono-aging and photoaging, has led to various strategies aimed at repairing, replacing, and supporting collagen turnover, preventing further damage, and enhancing skin vitality. Topical treatments and cosmetic procedures remain effective for addressing visible signs of aging, offering quick results. For long-term anti-aging benefits, the incorporation of carefully crafted nutricosmeceutical supplements can complement these treatments, rejuvenating and enhancing skin integrity, improving appearance, and supporting overall vitality and well-being.

REFERENCES

1. Varani J, Dame MK, Rittie L, et al. Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin: roles of age-dependent alteration in fibroblast function and defective mechanical stimulation. Am J Pathol. 2006; 168(6):1861-1868. doi:10.2353/ajpath.2006.051302.

2. Reilly DM, Lozano J. Skin collagen through the lifestages: importance for skin health and beauty. Plast Aesthet Res. 2021; 8:2. http://dx.doi.org/10.20517/2347-9264.2020.153

3. Jadach B, Mielcarek Z, Osmałek T. Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products. Curr Issues Mol Biol. 2024;46(3):2043-2070. Published 2024 Mar 4. doi:10.3390/cimb46030132

4. DePhillipo NN, Aman ZS, Kennedy MI, Begley JP, Moatshe G, LaPrade RF. Efficacy of Vitamin C Supplementation on Collagen Synthesis and Oxidative Stress After Musculoskeletal Injuries: A Systematic Review. Orthop J Sports Med. 2018;6(10):2325967118804544. Published 2018 Oct 25. doi:10.1177/2325967118804544.

5. Jaiswal S, Jawade S. Microneedling in Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review of Applications, Techniques, and Outcomes. Cureus. 2024;16(9):e70033. Published 2024 Sep 23. doi:10.7759/cureus.70033

6. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF, Marchell N. Collagen tightening induced by carbon dioxide laser versus erbium: YAG laser. Lasers Surg Med. 2000;27(5):395-403. Doi:10.1002/1096-9101(2000)27:5<395::AIDLSM1000>3.0.CO;2-4

7. Wang JV, Schoenberg E, Saedi N, Ibrahim O. Platelet-rich Plasma, Collagen Peptides, and Stem Cells for Cutaneous Rejuvenation. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2020;13(1):44-49.

8. el-Domyati M, el-Ammawi TS, Medhat W, et al. Radiofrequency facial rejuvenation: evidence-based effect. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64(3):524-535. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2010.06.045.

9. Rendon MI, Berson DS, Cohen JL, Roberts WE, Starker I, Wang B. Evidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacing. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010;3(7):3243.

10. Cockerham K, Hsu VJ. Collagen-based dermal fillers: past, present, future. Facial Plast Surg. 2009;25(2):106113. doi:10.1055/s-0029-1220650

11. Avila Rodríguez MI, Rodriguez Barroso LG, Sánchez ML. Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018 Feb; 17(1):20-6.

SUMMER SKINCARE ISSUES: A SEASON OF SENSITIVITY AND CHALLENGES

INTRODUCTION

When summer arrives, it brings longer days, warmer weather, and more chances to enjoy the outdoors. This seasonal change often boosts mood and encourages a more active lifestyle, with people spending more time in the sun and fresh air. But along with these benefits, summer can also bring some challenges for

the skin. The heat, humidity, and stronger UV rays can throw off the skin natural balance, leading to issues like excess oil, breakouts, dryness, or irritation. As the weather shifts, the skin needs can change too. Many people start to notice their skin behaving differently during this time—some experience more shine, some develop dryness

or sensitivity, and others see existing skin issues flare up. Understanding how summer affects the skin is key to helping people keep it healthy, comfortable, and protected. The following sections look at the main factors that affect the skin in summer, common concerns that can arise, and simple ways to manage them with the right care.

SUNBURN

Sunburn happens when the skin gets too much sun, especially from strong UV rays. This can lead to visible redness, irritation, and a burning sensation, all signs that the skin has been damaged. With repeated sunburns, the skin can start to show signs of early ageing—like wrinkles and uneven

• Soothing and Supporting Sunburn Recovery

For mild sunburn, gently cooling the skin is the first step—cold compresses, a cool bath, or after-sun gels containing aloe vera or menthol can provide soothing relief. Moisturizers with ingredients like coconut oil or hyaluronic acid help to restore lost hydration and support skin repair. Antiinflammatory medications, such as ibuprofen, may help reduce swelling and ease discomfort. In addition to over-the-counter options, natural home remedies can also be beneficial. Aloe vera gel, cucumber slices, coconut oil, and oatmeal baths offer gentle comfort and promote healing. Supporting recovery from within by including antioxidant-rich foods—like berries, leafy greens, and tomatoes—in the diet can further help the skin bounce back more effectively. 1

• How to Prevent Sunburn and Keep Skin Safe in summer

The easiest way to deal with sunburn is to avoid it in the first place. A good quality broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher should be a part of every morning routine—especially on areas like the face, neck, shoulders, and arms that see the most sunlight. When heading outdoors, reach for lightweight long-sleeved clothing, wide-brimmed hats, and sunglasses for extra protection. Sunscreen needs a top-up every two hours, and even more often after swimming or sweating.

Sometimes, though, things go a bit too far. If the skin is badly burnt, blisters appear on large areas, or there are worrying signs like dizziness, fever, or dehydration, it is time to see a doctor right away. A little sunsmart planning goes a long way in keeping the skin healthy, protected, and beautifully cared for all summer long. 1

tone—and over time, the risk of more serious health issues may increase. There are different levels of sunburn. A mild case (first-degree) usually brings redness, warmth, slight swelling, and tenderness. A more intense burn (seconddegree) can cause blisters, peeling, and more pain. In rare, very severe cases (third-degree), the damage goes deeper, affecting underlying tissue and causing long-lasting discoloration and significant pain. UVB rays are the main cause of sunburn, but UVA also contributes. Certain factors raise the risk, such as having fair skin, staying in the sun too long without protection, being at higher altitudes, or being near reflective surfaces like water, snow, or concrete. 1

HEAT RASH

What Triggers It?

This kind of rash happens when sweat glands become blocked, trapping moisture and causing irritation. It often flares up with too much sweating, wearing tight or synthetic clothes, or even certain medications. People living in hot, humid areas or doing intense physical activity are more likely to experience it. 2

How to Soothe the Rash?

• Cool the skin by moving to a cooler environment.

• Wear loose, breathable cotton clothing.

• Gently wash the affected area with cool water.

• Pat the skin dry—don’t rub.

Heat rash, often called prickly heat, shows up when sweat gets trapped under the skin, causing tiny red or grayish bumps. It usually pops up in places like the underarms, groin, or anywhere tight clothes rub against the skin. While it is harmless, it can feel itchy, prickly, and uncomfortable—especially in hot, sticky weather. Babies and young kids tend to get it more easily because their sweat glands are still fully developed. 2

• Apply a cool compress to soothe irritation.

• Stay away from heavy creams or oils that may clog pores.

• Avoid scratching to prevent further irritation or infection.

• Use topical antibiotics like clindamycin if there are signs of infection.

• For recurring or stubborn cases, oral treatments like isotretinoin may help reduce oil and clear pores.

• Apply anhydrous lanolin to soothe and protect dry, irritated skin.

Simple Ways to Prevent It

To keep heat rash away, try to stay as cool and dry as possible. Wear loose, breathable fabrics (cotton is a winner), avoid tight-fitting clothes, and take breaks in shady or air-conditioned areas. Drinking plenty of water helps the body stay cool from within, and keeping sweat in check can go a long way in preventing those annoying bumps.

HYPERPIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin issue during the summer, causing certain areas of the skin to appear darker than others due to an excess of melanin, the pigment responsible for giving skin its color. It can present itself as sun spots (also known as age spots), melasma (which are patchy dark areas, often on the face), or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — dark spots left behind after acne or skin irritation heals. While these dark patches are harmless, they can affect once appearance and self-esteem, especially during the summer months when more skin is exposed to sunlight. 3

Why Does Hyperpigmentation ... get worse in summer?

Hyperpigmentation, or the darkening of certain areas of skin, can become more noticeable during the summer months. Here are the primary factors that contribute to this common skin concern:

Sun Exposure

The most significant cause of hyperpigmentation is UV radiation from the sun. Sun exposure stimulates the skin to produce more melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. Over time, this excess melanin can lead to dark spots, also known as sunspots or age spots, and uneven skin tone. The longer the skin is exposed to the sun, the more likely these dark spots will form. 3

Other Causing Factors

In addition to sun exposure, other environmental and skinrelated factors can contribute to hyperpigmentation:

Skin Inflammation

Inflammation from conditions like acne, eczema, or skin injuries

can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This occurs when dark marks remain after the skin heals. In summer, factors such as increased sweating and heat can aggravate PIH, especially in darker skin tones, making the spots more pronounced. 3

How to prevent and Manage Hyperpigmentation in summer?

1. Use Sunscreen Every Day

• Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.

• Sunscreen helps protect the skin from UV rays and prevents dark spots from getting worse.

. Wear Protective Clothing

• Use wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and long-sleeved clothing to block sunlight.

• Seek shade whenever possible to reduce direct sun exposure.

3. Use Skincare That Targets Pigmentation

Look for ingredients that are proven to help fade dark spots and even skin tone:

• Thiamidol: Helps reduce melanin production and lighten dark spots. 3

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Reduces the appearance of dark spots and soothes the skin. 3

• Vitamin C: A strong antioxidant that helps brighten skin and reduce melanin formation. 3

• Retinol (Vitamin A): Boosts cell turnover, helping old pigmented cells shed and new skin form. 3

4. Be Consistent with Skincare

• Stick to a daily routine.

• Always include sunscreen as the final step in your morning routine.

• Don’t forget areas like the neck, ears, and hands, which are often missed but get a lot of sun.

Key Takeaway for Patients

• Hyperpigmentation is common in summer due to sun, heat, and hormonal changes.

• Daily sun protection and the right skincare can prevent and reduce dark spots.

• Results take time—consistent care over several weeks is needed to see improvement

ACNE BREAKOUTS FROM SUN EXPOSURE

Sunlight plays a complex role when it comes to acne. While a little sun can sometimes seem to help, too much can actually make acne worse in the long run. Understanding this

balance is important, especially during the summer.

How Too Much Sun Can Worsen Acne?

1. Dehydration and Extra Oil Production

The sun can dry out the outer layer of the skin. To make up for this dryness, the skin may produce more oil (sebum), which can clog pores and cause breakouts. 4

2. Blocked Pores

UV exposure can cause the skin to thicken and shed cells unevenly. This can lead to blocked pores and the formation of blackheads or whiteheads.

3. Sweating and Bacteria Buildup

Hot weather and sweating create a moist environment where bacteria can grow more easily. This can irritate the skin and worsen acne.

4. Sun-Induced Acne (Acne Aestivalis)

Some people develop a type of acne-like rash after sun exposure, especially in warm climates. This is known as acne aestivalis or “Mallorca acne.”

5. Dark Marks After Acne (Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation)

If acne is exposed to the sun, it can leave behind dark spots—especially in people with medium to dark skin tones. These marks can take a long time to fade.

Topical Treatments

Topical treatments are often the first-line approach for managing mild to moderate acne and can be effectively administered in a primary care environment.

• Benzoyl Peroxide

This treatment reduces acnecausing bacteria on the skin and helps control inflammation. It is frequently combined with other

treatments to enhance efficacy and minimize the risk of bacterial resistance. 4

• Topical Retinoids

Retinoids help regulate skin cell turnover and reduce inflammation. These are also beneficial for longterm acne control, preventing future breakouts and maintaining clear skin after initial treatment. 4

• Topical Antibiotics

Antibiotics are effective for treating inflammatory acne lesions by reducing bacterial growth and inflammation. To reduce the risk of resistance, it is recommended to combine them with benzoyl peroxide rather than using them alone. 4

• Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid has both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for treating acne. It is particularly beneficial for patients with sensitive skin and for managing post-acne pigmentation changes. 4

Tips to Protect AcneProne Skin in the Sun

1. Use Sunscreen Daily

Choose a sunscreen that is oil-free and has an SPF of 30 or higher. Reapply every 2 hours, especially if you’re spending extended time outdoors.

2. Clean Skin After Sweating

Gently wash the face after sweating to remove oil, bacteria, and dirt. Use a mild cleanser suitable for acneprone skin to avoid irritation.

3. Hydrate Regularly

Adequate hydration is essential for maintaining healthy skin. Drink plenty of water throughout the day to help keep your skin moisturized from within. This can also help prevent dryness or dehydration, which may make acne worse or lead to increased oil production.

CONCLUSION

Summer brings many benefits, but it also presents specific challenges to skin health. Prolonged sun exposure, increased perspiration, and environmental factors can all negatively affect the skin condition. It is essential to adjust skincare routines for the season by incorporating daily sunscreen use, staying hydrated, and opting for lightweight products. These steps can help prevent common issues such as sunburn, dehydration, and acne flareups. For individuals experiencing persistent or severe skin concerns, a comprehensive clinical evaluation by a healthcare professional or general practitioner is necessary to identify any underlying conditions and prevent complications. Early intervention is key to managing and mitigating the progression of skin concerns. By adopting a proactive approach and seeking appropriate care, individuals can maintain healthy skin throughout the summer months.

REFERENCES

1. Guerra KC, Crane JS. Sunburn. In: StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; October 29, 2023.

2. Guerra KC, Toncar A, Krishnamurthy K. Miliaria. In: StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; September 1, 2024.

3. Nautiyal A, Wairkar S. Management of hyperpigmentation: Current treatments and emerging therapies. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2021; 34(6):1000-1014. doi:10.1111/pcmr.12986.

4. Engebretsen KA, Johansen JD, Kezic S, Linneberg A, Thyssen JP. The effect of environmental humidity and temperature on skin barrier function and dermatitis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016; 30(2):223-249. doi:10.1111/jdv.13301

NUTRITIONAL SUPPORT FOR OPTIMIZING HAIR HEALTH

AND STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY

INTRODUCTION

Healthy, vibrant hair is more than just an aesthetic asset—it reflects the body internal balance and nutritional well-being. Hair follicles are among the most metabolically active structures in the body, requiring a consistent supply of nutrients to sustain the complex biological

processes involved in hair growth, keratinization, and cycling. Even subtle deficiencies in macro- or micronutrients can disrupt the hair cycle, impair shaft formation, and lead to visible thinning, dullness, and fragility. In aesthetic practice, nutritional assessment is a crucial element of a holistic treatment plan

for hair optimization. Whether used as a primary modality or alongside procedural interventions, targeted nutritional support plays a foundational role in promoting hair strength, growth, and resilience. 1

THE BIOLOGY OF HAIR STRUCTURE

AND GROWTH

Hair is primarily made up of keratin—a strong, sulfurrich fibrous protein synthesized in the matrix of the hair bulb. The follicle undergoes cyclical phases of growth: the anagen phase (active growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting and shedding). Anagen can last for years and is energy-intensive, demanding a sustained supply of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. These nutrients support not only the proliferation of keratinocytes but also the

MACRONUTRIENTS

AND HAIR

HEALTH

1. Protein

Protein is the cornerstone of hair construction. Keratin, the main component of the hair shaft, is composed of amino acids—particularly cysteine and methionine—that provide rigidity and elasticity. Hair matrix cells require adequate protein intake to maintain their high mitotic rate and support continuous shaft production. Inadequate dietary protein, whether due to restrictive diets or malabsorption, can lead to telogen effluvium—a form of diffuse hair shedding. Clinically, amino acid supplementation, particularly with L-lysine and sulfur-containing amino acids, may enhance structural

synthesis of structural proteins, lipid regulation in sebaceous glands, and protection against oxidative stress. Any nutritional imbalance

can prematurely shift hair into the telogen phase, slow regrowth, and compromise shaft integrity. 2

strength and promote density in individuals with protein insufficiency. 3

2. Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs)

EFAs—especially omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids—play vital roles in maintaining scalp health, regulating inflammation, and preserving the integrity of the hair follicle. These fats support lipid production in sebaceous glands, modulate the inflammatory environment around follicles, and contribute to scalp hydration. Dietary sources such as fatty fish, flaxseeds, and evening primrose oil help nourish follicles from within. 3

MICRONUTRIENTS

ESSENTIAL FOR HAIR INTEGRITY

1. Iron

Iron is critical for DNA synthesis and cellular energy production within hair matrix cells. It supports the activity of ribonucleotide reductase and other enzymes essential for keratinocyte proliferation. Even without overt anaemia, suboptimal iron stores— reflected by serum ferritin levels below 30 ng/mL—can impair hair growth and trigger telogen effluvium. Women, particularly those with heavy menstrual losses or plant-based diets, are at higher risk. Iron supplementation, has been shown to restore hair density and improve hair vitality in irondeficient patients. 3

3. Biotin (Vitamin B7)

Biotin functions as a coenzyme in carboxylation reactions crucial for fatty acid synthesis and keratin infrastructure. Though severe deficiency is rare, marginal insufficiency can compromise keratin formation, leading to fragile hair and increased breakage. Certain conditions—including long-term antibiotic use, genetic biotinidase deficiency, or anticonvulsant therapy—can impair biotin absorption or metabolism. 3

2. Zinc

Zinc is essential for enzymatic reactions involved in follicular cell turnover, sebum regulation, and inflammation control. It stabilizes follicular membranes, promotes keratinocyte differentiation, and has antioxidant effects that help maintain a healthy scalp environment. Deficiency may manifest as diffuse hair shedding, brittle strands, or scaling of the scalp. 3

4. Vitamin D

Vitamin D plays a regulatory role in hair follicle cycling by influencing stem cell activation and immune modulation. It promotes the transition from telogen to anagen and helps regulate keratinocyte proliferation within the follicular unit. Low serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D levels have been associated with chronic telogen effluvium and autoimmune forms of alopecia such as alopecia areata. Supplementation may help restore hair cycling dynamics in individuals with vitamin D deficiency. 3

5. Vitamin A and E

Vitamins A and E are vital fat-soluble nutrients that support scalp health and hair follicle function. Vitamin A regulates cellular turnover and sebaceous gland activity, with deficiency leading to dry, brittle hair and flaky scalp. Vitamin E acts as a potent antioxidant, shielding follicular cells from oxidative damage and supporting a balanced scalp environment. In cases of oxidative stress-related hair loss, it may help improve hair density and strength. 3

6. Selenium

EMERGING NUTRIENTS AND PHYTOCOMPOUNDS

1. Silicon (Silica)

Silicon, often in the form of orthosilicic acid, supports collagen synthesis and reinforces the hair shaft strength and elasticity. It contributes to the smoothness and shine of hair by enhancing keratin fibre compaction. Found in foods such as oats, barley, and

certain mineral waters, silicon supplementation may improve tensile properties and reduce split ends, especially in aging hair. 4

2. Collagen Peptides

Oral collagen peptides—typically hydrolyzed for better absorption— provide amino acid building blocks such as glycine and proline. These peptides support extracellular matrix health in the scalp and improve dermal vascularization. 5

3. Polyphenols and Antioxidants

Natural plant-based antioxidants,

such as epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) from green tea, resveratrol from grapes, and curcumin from turmeric, exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties. These phytochemicals may support immune balance around the follicle and mitigate oxidative stress linked to hair thinning. While not primary therapies, they serve as useful adjuncts in nutraceutical formulations aimed at improving follicular health. 6

CLINICAL APPLICATION: NUTRITIONAL ASSESSMENT AND INTERVENTION

The foundation of nutritional therapy begins with a thorough history and dietary evaluation. Clinicians should inquire about recent weight loss, dietary restrictions, gastrointestinal symptoms, and medication use. Laboratory evaluation—including ferritin, zinc, and vitamin D, B12, folate, and TSH— helps guide targeted supplementation. In patients with complex or refractory hair loss, further testing for selenium, copper, and biotin may be warranted. Nutritional interventions should be personalized and based on clinical and laboratory evidence rather than generalized multivitamin use. Regular follow-up is key, as hair responds slowly—typically over several months—and monitoring is needed to assess efficacy and detect potential side effects. 3

INTEGRATING NUTRITIONAL THERAPY WITH AESTHETIC INTERVENTIONS

Incorporating nutritional optimization enhances the effectiveness of in-clinic aesthetic treatments. For example, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy relies on adequate protein and micronutrient levels to activate growth factors. Similarly, mesotherapy with nutrient cocktails and low-level laser therapy (LLLT) may show better outcomes in a well-nourished follicular

REFERENCES

environment. Nutritional support also helps prevent hair shedding after stressors like surgery, rapid weight loss, or systemic illness. Combining internal and external approaches leads to more holistic and sustained results. 7

PRACTICAL PEARLS FOR AESTHETIC PRACTICE

• Evaluate nutritional status in every patient presenting with hair concerns—especially diffuse thinning or chronic shedding.

• Avoid prescribing broad-spectrum “hair vitamins” without clinical justification. Use lab-guided, individualized plans.

• Educate patients on the timeline of hair improvement—set expectations for visible changes after 3–6 months.

• Collaborate with dietitians or nutrition experts for long-term management in patients with dietary insufficiencies or eating disorders.

• Consider nutrient support as a pre-treatment protocol before initiating aggressive or energy-based scalp procedures.

CONCLUSION

Hair health is intricately tied to nutritional sufficiency. While cosmetic products and treatments offer external solutions, long-term follicular vitality stems from internal balance. Aesthetic and Dermatologic practitioners are uniquely positioned to recognize and address these connections. By integrating evidencebased nutritional strategies into hair care protocols, we can enhance outcomes, improve patient satisfaction, and support sustainable hair integrity over time.

1. Wall D, Meah N, Fagan N, York K, Sinclair R. Advances in hair growth. Fac Rev. 2022; 11:1. Published 2022 Jan 12. doi:10.12703/r/11-1.

2. Hoover E, Alhajj M, Flores JL. Physiology, Hair. In: StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; July 30, 2023.

3. Guo EL, Katta R. Diet and hair loss: effects of nutrient deficiency and supplement use. Dermatol Pract Concept. 2017; 7(1):1-10. Published 2017 Jan 31. doi:10.5826/dpc.0701a01.

4. Araújo LA, Addor F, Campos PM. Use of silicon for skin and hair care: an approach of chemical forms available and efficacy. A Bras Dermatol. 2016; 91(3):331-335. doi:10.1590/abd1806-4841.20163986.

5. Hwang SB, Park HJ, Lee BH. Hair-Growth-Promoting Effects of the Fish Collagen Peptide in Human Dermal Papilla Cells and C57BL/6 Mice Modulating Wnt/β-Catenin and BMP Signaling Pathways. Int J Mol Sci. 2022; 23(19):11904. Published 2022 Oct 7. Doi: 10.3390/ijms231911904.

6. Sun M, Deng Y, Cao X, et al. Effects of Natural Polyphenols on Skin and Hair Health: A Review. Molecules. 2022; 27(22):7832. Published 2022 Nov 14. doi:10.3390/molecules27227832

7. Liu D, Xu Q, Meng X, Liu X, Liu J. Status of research on the development and regeneration of hair follicles. Int J Med Sci. 2024; 21(1):80-94. Published 2024 Jan 1. doi:10.7150/ijms.88508.

THE SCIENCE BEHIND SUN DAMAGE TO HAIR: A

MEDICAL-AESTHETIC

PERSPECTIVE

INTRODUCTION

Hair plays an integral role in an individual aesthetic presentation and overall self-perception. Like other tissues, hair is susceptible to damage from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, yet it differs significantly in that it lacks the regenerative capacity found in most body tissues. While other tissues have the ability to repair and regenerate themselves following UV-induced damage, once hair is damaged, it lacks the means to heal, rendering it more vulnerable to prolonged UV exposure. Over time, repeated sun exposure can lead to several issues within the hair structure, including dehydration, fading of colour, increased fragility, and a higher susceptibility to breakage. This guide aims to assist in recognizing the clinical manifestations of sun damage to the hair, offering evidence-based recommendations for prevention, diagnosis, and management. These strategies are designed to optimize care in both medical and aesthetic contexts, addressing the immediate and long-term consequences of UVinduced hair damage.1

1. HAIR FIBRE ARCHITECTURE: A PRECURSOR TO UNDERSTANDING DAMAGE

Hair is made up of three distinct layers, each with its specific function, and all are vulnerable to damage from UV rays:

• Cuticle – The outermost layer, composed of flat, overlapping cells that act as a protective barrier for the hair shaft. When the cuticle becomes damaged, it lifts or wears away, leading to increased moisture loss and a rough texture. 2

• Cortex – The thickest layer, which contains the protein keratin and pigment melanin, responsible for the strength, flexibility, and color of the hair. Damage to the cortex leads to weakening of the hair structure and loss of color vibrancy. 2

• Medulla – The innermost core of the hair shaft, typically found in thicker hair types. While its role in sun damage is less significant compared to the cuticle and cortex, it can still be affected in very coarse or thick hair types, leading to overall hair fragility.2

2. ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION: HOW SUNLIGHT

GRADUALLY DAMAGES HAIR

Hair is frequently exposed to environmental factors, and one of the most significant is ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although most attention is given to sun damage affecting the skin, UV-related hair changes are also clinically important—especially in individuals presenting with dryness, fragility, or premature colour fading. The two main types of UV radiation that reach the Earth surface are UVA (320–400 nm) and UVB (280–320 nm). UVC is blocked by the ozone layer and does not contribute to hair damage. 2

UVB – Damage at the Surface

UVB rays mostly affect the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle) and the upper part of the cortex. Their effects include:

• Breaking down keratin proteins, which weakens the hair and makes

it more prone to breakage. 2

• Lifting or wearing away the cuticle layer, leading to rough texture and frizz. 2

• Making the hair more porous, which results in moisture loss and dryness. 2

• Diminishing shine, as damaged hair no longer reflects light evenly. 2

UVA – Deeper, Oxidative Stress

UVA rays reach deeper into the hair shaft, affecting its internal structure. They react with the natural pigment (melanin) and proteins inside the hair, triggering the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). These unstable molecules cause:

• Fading of both natural and dyed hair colour (especially reds and lighter shades). 2

3. PHOTO-BLEACHING: COLOUR FADING

Exposure to the sun affects the texture and colour of hair. Photobleaching, or UV-induced colour fading, happens when the sun breaks down the pigments in hair. Here how it affects hair colour:

• Melanin Breakdown: Melanin is the pigment responsible for giving hair its natural colour. UV rays break it down, leading to gradual lightening of hair, especially in darker tones. Over › time, hair may appear noticeably lighter, which is often seen as hair “fading” or losing its depth. 3

• Dyed Hair Fading: Coloured hair is more vulnerable to UV damage than natural hair. The UV rays break down the colour molecules created by hair dye, causing vibrant hues to fade much faster. This is especially true for

• Weakening of the hair internal structure, reducing strength and elasticity. 2

• Increased brittleness and dryness, making hair more difficult to manage. 2

Combined

Effect:

Progressive UV Damage

Over time, repeated sun exposure causes ongoing damage to the essential components of the hair— proteins, lipids, and pigments. This results in:

• Dull or faded hair colour. 2

• Rough texture and frizz. 2

• More frequent breakage with combing or styling. 2

• Lower tolerance to chemical treatments like colouring or straightening. 2

Damage Hair

reds, copper tones, and pastel shades, which are more delicate and prone to sun damage. Freshly dyed hair may lose its vibrancy. 3

4. PROTEIN DEGRADATION: WEAKENING HAIR STRUCTURE

• Break down of keratin: Keratin gives hair its strength, but UV rays weaken these protein bonds, making hair more fragile and prone to breakage. This damage results in limp, brittle hair that breaks easily and loses its shape. 3

• Loss of Elasticity: Healthy hair has the ability to stretch and bounce back, but UV damage reduces this elasticity. With less flexibility, hair strands can snap, split, and lose their natural volume, leaving hair looking flat and lifeless. 3

• Lipid Depletion: Loss of Hydration and Shine in Hair

The lipid layer on hair, particularly 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid), is essential for maintaining smoothness, shine, and protection. UV exposure can damage this layer, leading to several issues:

➢ Dryness and Roughness:

UV rays break down 18-MEA and other lipids on the hair surface, increasing moisture loss and leaving hair feeling rough. 4

➢ Loss of Shine: The breakdown of 18-MEA reduces the hair ability to retain gloss, making it appear dull and lifeless. 4,5

➢ Scalp Discomfort: UV exposure also affects the scalp natural oils, impairing their moisturizing function and leading to dryness or irritation. 4,5

5. CHRONIC PHOTOAGING OF HAIR: THE IRREVERSIBLE ACCUMULATION

Unlike the skin, which undergoes regenerative renewal, hair suffers cumulative photodamage, termed phototricholysis. Over time, repeated solar exposure results in:

• Persistent dullness and colour instability. 6

• Split ends and trichoptilosis. 6

• Reduced fibre elasticity and snapping. 6

6. EXACERBATING RISK FACTORS:-

Pre-existing damage dramatically increases the vulnerability to further photodeterioration. 7

7. CLINICAL AND AESTHETIC INDICATORS OF SUN-DAMAGED HAIR

Practitioners should look for:

• Loss of luster and increased roughness

• Fading or uneven pigmentation

• Split ends, flyaways, and frizz.

• Fragility and snapping upon combing

• Sensation of dryness or scalp irritation

Practitioners should be aware that phototricholysis may be accompanied by perifollicular erythema, scaling, or scalp sensitivity.8

• Incompatibility with chemical treatments. 6

• Increased tangling due to cuticular roughening.

These signs reflect progressive biochemical and biomechanical degradation. 6

8. PREVENTIVE STRATEGIES FOR PHOTOPROTECTION OF

HAIR FIBERS

Hair fibres are susceptible to environmental aggressors— particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which can lead to protein degradation, cuticle damage, dehydration, and color fading. The following strategies help maintain the structural and aesthetic integrity of the hair under sun exposure:

▶ Physical Barriers

• Wearing wide-brimmed hats or UV-protective scarves offers effective physical protection for hair. 9

• Choose UPF-rated (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) headwear to help reduce UV-induced damage during outdoor exposure. 9

▶ Topical Photoprotection

• A range of UV-protective haircare formulations—including sprays, serums, and leave-in conditioners— help shield the hair shaft from solar radiation. 9

• Reapplication is advised following swimming or excessive perspiration to maintain protective efficacy. 9

▶ Antioxidant Support

• Topical antioxidants mitigate oxidative stress induced by UV exposure and environmental pollutants:

◉ Vitamin E (Tocopherol): Protects lipids within the hair fiber and aids in repair. 9

◉ Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): Helps preserve hair pigment and neutralizes free radicals. 9

◉ Panthenol and amino acids: Support keratin integrity, enhance hydration, and improve hair resilience. 9

TREATING SUNDAMAGED HAIR

Although complete reversal of photodamage is unachievable, strategic interventions can significantly improve appearance and function: 2

• Protein Reconstructors

Hydrolyzed keratin or collagen-based masks patch cortical protein deficits and restore strength. 2

• Lipid-Rich Conditioners

Formulations containing argan, jojoba, or coconut oil help re-establish lipid barriers and improve softness. 2

• Bond Multipliers

Bond-building agents restructure disulphide bonds within the hair cortex, enhancing internal fibre cohesion and structural integrity. 2

• Gentle Cleansing

Sulphate-free, pH-balanced shampoos minimize further lipid stripping and support moisture retention. 3

10. SYSTEMIC SUPPORT: NUTRITIONAL FACTORS IN HAIR RESILIENCE

Internal nutritional status influences the resilience

REFERENCES

of the hair fibre to oxidative damage. 4 Key nutrients include:

• Biotin, zinc, and iron: Crucial for keratinocyte function and follicular health. 2

• Omega-3 fatty acids: Enhance scalp barrier and hydration. 2

• Vitamin D: Supports epidermal and follicular immune regulation. 2

Adequate hydration ensures intracellular water retention, enhancing the suppleness and strength of newly formed hair fibres. 4

CONCLUSION

As aesthetic medicine continues to evolve, the recognition of hair photo-damage as a clinical and cosmetic concern is gaining momentum. UV radiation, particularly during the summer and in highUV environments, exerts cumulative, multi-layered damage on the hair shaft. From keratin degradation and pigment loss to lipid oxidation and structural breakdown, the consequences extend beyond superficial aesthetics to fibre functionality. Through informed, evidence-based photo-protection, topical interventions, and nutritional support, aesthetic professionals can offer preventive and restorative protocols that maintain the hair health, beauty, and biomechanical integrity. Much like skin photoprotection, hair-photo protection should be central to seasonal aesthetic care protocols, forming the next frontier in comprehensive trichological wellness.

1. Panteleyev AA. Functional anatomy of the hair follicle: The Secondary Hair Germ. Exp Dermatol. 2018; 27(7):701-720. doi:10.1111/exd.13666.

2. Zhai X, Gong M, Peng Y, Yang D. Effects of UV Induced-Photoaging on the Hair Follicle Cycle of C57BL6/J Mice. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2021; 14:527-539. Published 2021 May 18. doi:10.2147/CCID.S310487.

3. Kim DH, Oh SH, Chang BS. Effects of excessive bleaching on hair: comparative analysis of external morphology and internal microstructure. Appl Microsc. 2024; 54(1):11. Published 2024 Dec 17. Doi: 10.1186/ s42649-024-00104-0.

4. Shaw DA. Hair lipid and surfactants. Extraction of lipid by surfactants and lack of effect of shampooing on rate of re-fatting of hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1979; 1(6):317-328. doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00226.x

5. Rogers GE, Powell BC. Organization and expression of hair follicle genes. J Invest Dermatol. 1993; 101(1 Suppl):50S-55S. doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12362626,

6. Liang A, Fang Y, Ye L, et al. Signaling pathways in hair aging. Front Cell Dev Biol. 2023; 11:1278278. Published 2023 Nov 16. doi:10.3389/fcell.2023.1278278

7. Barrera A. Advances in aesthetic hair restoration. Aesthet Surg J. 2003; 23(4):259-264. Doi: 10.1016/S1090820X (03)00113-4.

8. Lin RL, Garibyan L, Kimball AB, Drake LA. Systemic causes of hair loss. Ann Med. 2016; 48(6):393-402. doi: 10.1080/07853890.2016.1180426.

9. Martel JL, Miao JH, Badri T, Fakoya AO. Anatomy, Hair Follicle. In: StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; June 22, 2024.

MUMBAI 2025

1 Day Conference, Hands on Workshop and Exhibition

CON, a 1 Day Conference, Hands on Workshop and Exhibition focused on practical learning experiences in Aesthetic Dermatology.

AESTHETICCON, a 1 Day Conference, Hands on Workshop and Exhibition focused on practical learning experiences in Aesthetic Dermatology.

Brought to you by “The Aestheticians Journal” serving you since 2010 with 12 years in print and digital publications and over a 100 educational workshops and conferences.

AESTHETICCON Mumbai 2025 is just the event for you with practical insights shared Conference, tips while training in the Hands on workshop and interaction with product manufacturers.

Spend the day catching up and meeting with your fellow Dermatologists colleagues.