Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 2008

Monaco Surprise

Organic revolution

Wine and Cheese

Unique suits

Hand-made supercar

Treasure hunt

MAY/JUNE 2008 – Volume 4, Issue 3

A look into life’s dazzling diversity

DESTINATIONS

DINING

MONEYED MONACO 6

NEW WORLD OF WINE 12

By Ivan Murzikov

By Catherine Shaw

This tiny principality offers much more than celebrity-spotting and gambling, with arts, architecture and nature in abundance.

Prestige sells in Japan, as sommeliers dictate to loyal consumers in a market saturated by cheaper imports.

LUXURY DRIVING

TECHNOLOGY

MYTHICAL MOTOR 18

SKY NO LONGER THE LIMIT 23

By Jeroen Booij

By Nicole Fall

This hand-made monster hardly challenges the behemoths, but it’s a fun drive with a unique design of lines and bulges.

The final frontier for mobile phone-free space has been shattered by a system to stop the devices interfering with vital airplane equipment.

SAY CHEESE! 16 Hundreds of cheeses now decorate delis and stores here as Japanese hungrily experiment with an increasing number of varieties.

GLOBAL MOBILE 25 You can now call anywhere in the world from your mobile phone for the price of a local connection, avoiding astronomical international charges.

HEALTH

STYLE

BEAUTY

BACK TO NATURE 26

BE BESPOKE 28

RIVER DEEP, MOUNTAIN HIGH 30

By Karryn Cartelle

By Justin McCurry

By Nicole Fall

Food-safety scares are helping organic restaurants and supermarkets become mainstream for an increasing number of Japanese.

This unconventional Omotesando tailor crafts suits for clients who refuse to be slaves to fashion and yearn to be different.

Skincare product ingredients are now sourced from some of the Earth’s lowest, highest and most remote points to bring fresh ideas to a demanding market.

REGULARS FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK 3 CHOICE CHOICES 4 Mouth-blown glasses. Saipan resort. Summer camps. Furnished accommodation.

CULTURE ABOUT TOWN 36

TOKYO TREASURE HUNT 33

Museums

By Catherine Shaw For early birds, weekend flea markets offer fascinating bargains and an interesting insight into yesteryear.

Published by: Paradigm, Kamiyama Ambassador 209, 18-6 Kamiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0047, Japan. Tel: (03) 5478-7941, Fax: (03) 5478-7942, E-mail: inquiries@paradigm.co.jp Publisher: Vickie Paradise Green | Editor-in-Chief: Simon Farrell | Editor: David Umeda | Creative Director: Richard Grehan | Art Director: Karen Jacobi Editorial Researcher: Francesca Penazzi | Advertising Sales: Eileen Chang, Shawn Corrigan, Melissa Daines, Leai Kubotsuka

Kaleidoscope / 1

FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK

tradition vs. trend Sandwiched between front and back features on a European magnet for the moneyed classes and the dark, secret world of Tokyo’s shrewd collectible hunters, respectively, this issue of extremes and contrasts in tastes and cost takes in contemporary trends of traditional markets.

With abundant cheaper, quality New World wines here, why do Japanese stay loyal to established French brands, while cheeseloving compatriots hunger for new and exotic tastes? Answers on pages 12 and 16.

Exploiting niche markets in industries dominated by massmanufacturing takes nerves of steel and boundless creativity; read more in our Luxury Driving road test of the handmade Orochi on page 18 and the search high and low for new Beauty products on page 30. Once unkindly called “the ugliest car on Earth” by a motor critic, the Orochi now clocks up sales overseas, while ingredients for cosmetics are being sourced in extreme spots worldwide to satisfy a fickle market’s voracious appetite for modern solutions to age-old problems.

And while Technology develops in leaps and bounds with cheaper and more convenient international mobile phone use (pages 23 and 25), we go back to nature as food safety scares spur growth in organic food sales (page 26).

Finally, why pay twice what famous brand suits cost? The answer is when the deal includes reversible jackets, Savile Row-style service and bespoke products not sold elsewhere created by the friendly neighborhood tailor featured on page 28.

Simon Farrell Editor-in-Chief simonfarrell@paradigm.co.jp

Kaleidoscope / 3

CHOICE CHOICES

the shape of good taste When it comes to entertaining guests, the glasses in which you serve your wine or spirits are essential to how they are appreciated. Riedel has fine-tuned the art of design to ensure that all grand intentions are realized from the first sniff, to the last sip. And Riedel has been getting it right on the world stage for generations.

Take today’s Sommeliers Black Tie line, based on the timeless original shapes of Riedel’s Grand Wine Glass Collection (1958), awarded a Grand Prix for its creative—and striking—design, as well as showcased in a permanent collection as a significant 1960s design at the New York Museum of Modern Art. The revival collection of classic, elegant glasses features a tall black stem on the varietally specific red wine glasses and a black base with crystal stem on the white wine glasses.

The Sommeliers Burgundy Grand Cru is the center of this mouth-blown Sommeliers collection. Some 25 skilled artisans treat the handcrafted glass, from molten crystal to one of the most coveted glasses among wine lovers. Decanter Magazine named it “The Best Burgundy Glass of All Time” (1989). In true Riedel fashion, the shape and size of each glass secures the intended aroma and flavor perception of the wine or spirit it holds. www.riedel.com/

active relaxation Getting away from the urban hustle and bustle needn’t be limited to reading a novel on the beach, humming along to easy-listening tunes on your noise-canceling headphones. Discover a sports-inclusive tropical resort at the PIC Saipan, just three hours from Japan. Saipan, the largest island in the Commonwealth, is part of a group of 14 volcanic islands that stands rich in history, heritage and culture—surpassing approximately 4,000 years, from its first settlers to its selfadministration in union with the United States.

Perfect for active individuals who enjoy unlimited access to snorkeling, kayaking, outrigger canoeing, tennis, a climbing wall, windsurfing and so much more, the PIC nourishes the spirit and enhances the fun. You can also learn how to surf on the perpetual Point Break Wave Machine, or float on an inner tube around the .5km lazy river. Kids’ Club is available for the little ones ages 4-12 years, so that parents can enjoy playing on their vacation. Make your next holiday a PIC adventure!

Conveniently book online at www.picresorts.com for special packages. Pacific Islands Club, Tel. 03-3436-0777.

4 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

what comes natural When it comes to the great outdoors, you need to maximize your options—and benefits—by tapping the experience of those who understand your needs—and speak your language. The Evergreen Outdoor Center has been operating guided tours and instruction in the Hakuba area since 2000. Founded by Canadian and longtime resident of Hakuba, David Enright, Evergreen has been instrumental in developing outdoor activities, ecological tours and mountain-safety courses in the region. Their mission is to allow for the growth and development of the human spirit through personal interaction with the natural environment, physical challenges and teamwork, with a strong emphasis on individual needs and safety.

Children’s Summer Camps are the ultimate getaway for kids who are keen to have some serious fun!

Women’s Retreats in the Japan Alps are designed to allow woman and mothers time away from the everyday hustle and bustle, to relax and rejuvenate.

Executive Team-Building in the Japan Alps is the perfect way for corporate groups to create a more cohesive organization.

Family Vacations are made easy when you allow their professional staff to guide you along every step of your journey.

Evergreen can arrange everything from activities, accommodations, food and even transportation to the Japan Alps.

For more information, visit www.evergreen-outdoors.com or call Tel. 0261-72-5150.

where it’s at When it comes to living in Tokyo, you count on a location that defines optimum choices and convenience. Apartments33 is ideal for those seeking fully furnished corporate housing and limited-term accommodations.

The relocation of the Tokyo American Club to Takanawa has enhanced what the Apartments33 neighborhood already provides to the non-Japanese resident seeking an upscale lifestyle. Located just a five-minute walk from JR Shinagawa Station (includes the Shinkansen bullet train), we provide a front desk run by bilingual staff, 24/7, and captivating views of greenery.

There is also a Seven-Eleven convenience store on the ground level. Every month, we host a get-acquainted party for our residents while you savor traditional Japanese cuisine and drink. Apartments33 aims to make your living overseas an enriching experience, in the best urban ambience.

4-24-58 Takanawa, Minato-ku.

Tel. 0120-319-982, or 03-3445-2811. www.apartments33.co.jp

Kaleidoscope / 5

DESTINATIONS

PHOTOS COURTESY mONACO tOURISM

T

he Principality of Monaco is said to be the second-smallest independent nation on the planet, but entering it is like being transported into a whole new world. Quite frankly, the amount this city-state manages to offer in the minute 1.95 square kilometers that it takes up on the world map is likely to leave most visitors breathless— and not only for the reasons they may have been anticipating.

Like most people, I arrived in Monaco with a good number of preconceived ideas. I was convinced it would be filled with suntanned snobs who look down on everyone. I was psychologically preparing myself to pay a month’s salary for a hamburger. And I thought the only thing to do would be celebrity spotting in the harbor. Well, Monaco has a few tricks up its sleeve.

Perhaps the most charming aspect of the place is how it manages to wear its appearance of ridiculous luxury with such casual elegance. “The fact that Monaco is a luxury destination doesn’t

6 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

mean it should think too much of itself,” says Monaco Tourism.

“Every visitor, whatever their budget, should have a friendly experience. Of course, those who can afford the best also expect it, and Monaco always delivers.” This approach is partly out of necessity. Monaco has no natural resources to export and only one real source of income: tourism.

So, indeed, this is a very tourist-friendly destination, one where everything is within walking distance. There’s also a very useful bus service; and unlike many international cities, you can buy your ticket on the bus—a great convenience. The first thing most tourists do wrong is to rent a car—a very frustrating and unnecessary exercise, seeing as there is almost nowhere to park! If you have to get somewhere fast and don’t like walking, then there are plenty of taxis.

But walking does allow you to appreciate Monaco at a more sedate, in-depth pace. In any case, this is the one city in the world where you

can feel absolutely safe. With the biggest police force in the world in per capita terms, everyone can afford to be relaxed. Monaco is rated as a crime-free holiday spot.

Start with a stroll through the oldest part of the city (MonacoVille) situated on the Rock of Monaco, or le Rocher as the locals say.

This is where it all started, and as such many of the most culturally significant buildings are here. Visit the Palais Princier (Prince’s Palace), the Cathedral and the surprisingly nice Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium. The entry fee for the latter may be steep at over 10 euros per person, but the model-ship display alone made up for it. If you are keen to do some shopping, this old part of the city is also good, as there are many small shops and restaurants around.

Another attraction that may not be an obvious tourist hotspot is Le Jardin Exotique (Exotic Garden). I am based in a country with a desert climate, so the sight of cacti does little to excite me; but, thankfully,

this garden is about more than just a wide variety of exotic plants. Set in a part of the city with a steeply rising elevation, here one is often left breathless—not only due to the strenuous exercise, but also as a result of witnessing some incredibly spectacular views along the way. By the way, Monaco has an average of 300 days of sun each year, so pack sunblock.

But no matter how impressive Monaco’s hidden natural and historical charms are, in the end most visitors simply can’t resist visiting this Mediterranean destination’s more well-known attractions. The Grand Casino is such a place. Even if you’re not Background: A world packed into one city—Monaco is the world’s secondsmallest independent nation.

Inset (top-bottom): Monte Carlo Casino—play palace of the rich and famous; Yachts moored at the glamorous Port of Fontvieille; Les Ballets de Monte Carlo lures sellout crowds throughout the year.

Kaleidoscope / 7

Monaco’s secret is that it allows even one-day visitors to get up close and personal with the real Monaco lifestyle.

going to gamble, this very lavishly decorated place represents to many people what Monaco is really about—beautiful people inside, extravagant cars outside, and big chips on the table. If you’re looking for the Monaco that is portrayed in the movies, you will find it at the Casino. You’ll need your identity documents to go in, and the entry fee depends on what you’re going to do inside. Also, there is a strict dress code, so it’s best to look like James Bond when you arrive at the Casino.

For those who can afford it, Monaco offers some of the finest and most luxurious hotels in the world. The one where I stayed—the Port Palace—is situated almost right next to the Casino and with

Above: For musical extravaganzas try Le Cabaret at the Casino.

Above inset: Monte Carlo Casino

panoramic views of the palace, harbor and le Rocher. Port Palace is a five-star boutique hotel that opened in 2003, and its 50 ultraluxurious rooms have been home to many a celebrity since then.

The service, by the way, is superb and friendly.

But is Monaco really the glamorous spot that you expect—and perhaps want it to be? A place of Bulgari, Riva yachts, Bentleys and Martinis? Oh yes, and then some. You see, this is not so much the playground of the rich and famous, as it is where they call home.

Monaco’s secret is that it allows even one-day visitors to get up close and personal with the real Monaco lifestyle. Fancy driving the Monaco Grand Prix circuit? Not a problem; just rent a Ferrari or Lamborghini near the marina, and you will be allowed to drive along the 3.34km that has made the likes of Senna and Schumacher so famous. By the way, should you wish to attend the most glamorous Kaleidoscope / 9

race in the world, be sure to book early, otherwise you won’t see anything. This year’s Formula One race is scheduled for May 25, so, unfortunately, you are too late already.

Almost without fail, Monaco is a place where even your wildest fantasies are made possible. In fact, sometimes even the impossible appears to be possible here. I was pleasantly surprised to find a museum dedicated to Prince Albert II’s private cars, for example.

It would appear that, whatever your current expectations of Monaco may be, imagine it to be all that—but just a hundred times more accessible and friendlier.

Ivan Murzikov is a freelance writer based in Cape Town.

Background: Spectacularly beautiful setting in the south of France.

Above inset (left-right): The Monte Carlo F1 Grand Prix is arguably the world’s most glamorous motorsport event; Monte Carlo Casino frequently presents spectacular shows; The Monaco Yacht Club can help novices with sailing classes.

The Laser (sailing) world championship takes place in December.

MONACO TIPS • The currency is the Euro.

• The changing of the guard at the Prince’s Palace takes place at 11:55 a.m.

• Wear comfortable walking shoes, but pack your best if you fancy getting into the Grand Casino.

• Upmarket shoppers should head for the Golden Circle (clothing and perfume), or Place du Casino (jewelry).

• Top-end dining comes no better than in the suitably titled Louis XV restaurant.

• Fans of exquisite architecture should have a look at the flamboyant Opera House, also called the Salle Garnier after its designer, Charles Garnier.

Kaleidoscope / 11

DINING

By Catherine Shaw

When it comes to wine, Japan is a classic anomaly. It is the fourth-largest importer of wine in the world with more sommeliers than any country other than Italy. It also is the largest per capita consumer of icon or luxury Champagnes worldwide.

At the same time, the wine market is consistently described as stagnant, and records show an abysmally low wine consumption of two liters per capita.

A

t first glance, Japan may seem to be a wine merchant’s dream—an educated and well-traveled population, a deeply ingrained appreciation of quality and willingness to pay handsomely for it, a gourmand-like enjoyment of food with a refined palate, and a culture of drinking sake and beer.

However, the reality is that deeply ingrained constraints severely limit the market. Japan’s wine boom, stimulated by the declaration of Shinya Tasaki as the world’s number-one sommelier in 1995, has not been sustained.

The sad outcome is New and Old World wine importers are fighting it out for a share of a relatively limited market.

The reasons for this strange state of affairs in a luxury goods-loving country are complex. At a basic level is that Japanese tend not to drink more than one or two glasses of wine at a sitting, preferring to share their meal with tea, water, beer or sake. Japan’s wine consumption is also limited to urban areas, with Tokyo responsible for 70% of total wine consumed.

12 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

Japanese consumers tend to look to the wine’s prestige rather than actual enjoyment.

win

e.

Catherine Shaw

nd

Nat ion al A za

la ea

[here] than anywhere else in the world, but they play a very safe There is a strong polarization of the market, with quality wines game. And because the Japanese culture reveres such authority, their dominating one end and an abundance of ultra cheap (¥500-800) influence is very strong.” poor-quality wines at the other—meaning there is little of note Goodwin admits to a cynical view of the Michelin Guide’s recent in-between. Unfortunately, many Japanese start with tasting the announcement of Tokyo as the “world leader in gourmet dining,” cheap version, and quickly dismiss wine as undrinkable. Those willing commenting that the awarding of stars “raised eyebrows in the local to pay top rates, on the other hand, limit their tastings to safewine community.” Few restaurants in France, the United States or quality French wines and often avoid experimenting with new and elsewhere with stars have truly poor lists, he argues, pointing out that interesting varieties. some of the Michelin-starred Tokyo restaurants “boast little more Thanks to a widely held association of Old World French viniculture than a perfunctory white and red, while some of the other (which once was all that featured on Japanese wine lists) with three-stars offer dull selections.” all-important heritage and a sense of place and terroir, But with so many sommeliers available and French wines today still hold a 45% share of the or with best-sel supermarkets such as Nissin, Kinokuniya and s import market. In the past decade, New World i v d l ing ea Ne win National Azabu stocking more wines than wines, particularly those from New Zealand, w s ’ Z bu ever, why the dismal outlook? the United States and Australia, have made “It is mostly women buying wines some headway. But such gains largely and they tend to stay with wellcome down to currency advantages; known French fine wines for a special substantial marketing programs and occasion or for wines that they have investment that achieve relatively read about,” says one of the wine modest gains compared to other new advisors at National Azabu. “They markets around the world. have all heard of New Zealand’s Hard lessons have been learned—not Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, so it is least that advertising and promotions our best-selling wine.” must be specifically designed for the Herein lies the problem, according to Japanese market (instead of simply Goodwin. Japanese consumers tend to importing successful worldwide look to the wine’s prestige rather than campaigns). An interesting observation actual enjoyment. is that benefits appear to be limited to “There are many, many Japanese who a few select wines enjoying a higher do not know anything about wine profile, and do not extend to a wide and consider labels for cachet over appreciation of other wines. quality of product,” agrees Aarin Other reasons given for the Teich, a wine specialist who helped static market include Japan’s revolutionize the Tokyo American zero-tolerance drink and driving Club’s wine selection. laws, easily available and cheap A slavish loyalty to label-worthy alcoholic alternatives, and a lack of wines means Japan often misses education about the sheer variety of out on world trends, such as a greater wines available. appreciation of rosé wines, which According to Ned Goodwin, wine are eminently compatible with Asian consultant for the Global-Dining group and cuisines but which are, nonetheless, perceived studying for the internationally renowned Master as frivolous. of Wine degree: “There may be more sommeliers

Kaleidoscope / 13

catherine shaw

A weakening economy and strong European currencies have created an opportunity for New World wines to gain a foothold in the market, but this is still limited because of the power many Japanese vest in their sommeliers, seen as supreme experts. Japanese sommeliers tend to avoid blind wine-tastings and tend not to openly criticize wines in order to save face. Their—and most wine journalists’—reverence for a select group of French wines means that both arbiters of taste promote a safe and overly conservative approach to wine.

Goodwin goes so far as to argue that the Japan Sommelier Association has “failed to train its sommeliers to be dynamic, flexible, or even knowledgeable about the world of wine at large,” concluding that although “the choice of product is greater in Japan today, success beyond the traditional template is hard for importers and retailers [to realize].”

Yet, it is not all bad news for wine lovers seeking a more innovative approach to wine appreciation.

Locally based foreign sommeliers, such as Jeroboam’s Carl Robinson, and a few young enthusiastic Japanese sommeliers bring their passion and knowledge to the market. Goodwin, and the more optimistic in the wine business, hope that their positive and dynamic influence will eventually trickle down.

Furthermore, it is possible to sample different wines at several Tokyo restaurants. TAC’s American Room, Australianicon SALT and Global-Dining’s Legatos and Gonpatchi are a few well-priced examples.

Of special note is Legato’s innovative wine-by-the-glass list featuring hard-to-find gems, such as Crawford River Riesling (described by British wine writer Jancis Robinson as “one of the country’s best dry Rieslings”), an elegant Pizzini Sangiovese and several artisan wines from the Rhone and beyond.

The recent influx of luxury global-brand hotels in Tokyo has also brought in a wider choice.

The Peninsula Tokyo’s Peter restaurant’s unique wine taster list features half-sized bottles of wine. According to Joseph Sampermans, executive assistant manager of Food & Beverage, half bottles mean guests can enjoy a good glass of wine without having to order a full bottle, different preferences in a group can be more easily accommodated and wines may be matched to different food courses without having to order multiple full bottles.

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Left: The French reign supreme.

Kaleidoscope / 15

dining

By

C atherine Sha w

Tokyo is heaven for quality imported cheeses, but the local stuff is getting better, too.

R

Catherine Shaw

umiko Honda is passionate about cheese. The shelves in her French-styled cheese shop, Fernier, are bursting with a colorful array of over 300 varieties, more akin to what you’d find in a Fromagerie in Paris, rather than a tiny shop in Tokyo’s Atago Hills.

But with experts on hand to proffer specialized advice and the lure of a constantly changing cheese-tasting plate, Fernier has become a Mecca for those seeking what Clifton Fadiman once so eloquently described as a “milk’s leap toward immortality.”

Cheese is a relatively recent, but hugely successful import to Japan. Despite cheese not being a feature of the traditional Japanese diet of rice, fish and vegetables, consumption has steadily grown since World War II. Unlike other Asian cultures, Japanese quickly took to the texture and varied flavors.

According to 2007 industry statistics, Japanese demand for cheese has been steadily growing over the past decade, with imported cheeses accounting for 85% of total consumption. Though European cheeses continue to dominate the market, domestic natural cheeses are starting to make inroads as quality improves. Cheese is popular among all age groups, but especially with 30 to 50 year olds and those aged 60 and above.

It is no surprise, then, to find that cheese lovers are spoilt for choice in Tokyo. Foreigngoods supermarkets like Nissin, National Azabu and Kinokuniya carry an ever-increasing range of artisan cheeses, while restaurants throughout the recently Michelin-starred city consistently serve up a well-balanced and interesting variety.

16 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

“There is as good a choice here, as there is in some parts of France,” says Patric Pachon, directeur général of Daikanyama’s popular Le Petit Bedon French restaurant. “And it is usually very well stored and handled, which is important. Japanese love to experiment and learn about new cheeses, so they very quickly become connoisseurs on cheese.”

Naoko Yokoyama, Nissin supermarket’s cheese advisor and buyer, agrees. “Four years ago we sold about ¥7-million worth of cheese a month. Now the figure is over ¥10 million.” she says. “Every day people ask for recommendations or more information about new or different flavors.”

To meet the demand, Yokoyama has introduced more cheeses (over 200 on offer), supplies recipes and maps showing famous cheese regions, and features a cheese of the month. Weekend cheesetastings introduce new varietals. “Some are quite expensive,” adds Yokoyama.

“A whole Mimolette is over ¥10,000 and whole Parmesan is more than ¥20,000, but it sells well.”

“Culture has a lot to do with it,” says Fermier’s Honma. “The heritage and lifestyle associated with cheese production in France, Italy and Spain is very attractive for Japanese. They travel to these countries or eat at good-quality French restaurants, so define cheese as a prestigious cultural product.”

“It goes hand in hand with wine consumption,” says Le Petit Bedon’s Pachon, pointing to a table of seven Japanese women in his chic restaurant, tucking into a cheese-laden platter. “This is a wine-tasting group who come to us regularly and warn me beforehand about what wines they Above inset: Fermier in Atago Hills

Catherine Shaw

READ ALL ABOUT IT Cheese, by Juliet Harbutt Mitchell Beazley The Cheese Lover’s Companion: Ultimate A-to-Z Cheese Guide with More Than 1,000 Listings for Cheeses and Cheese-Related Terms, by Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst The Cheese Room, by Patricia Michelson

will be bringing so I can pair the cheese with them. They love the cheese course.”

“More and more people ask me for recommendations about how to create a good cheeseboard and how to match the wine,” confirms Nissin’s Yokoyama. “They want to understand how a cheese can bring out the best in a wine.”

Honma agrees that there is a growing passion for knowledge.

“Terroir, the season’s climate, the producer, how it is stored—all these elements are as important for cheese connoisseurs as [for] wine connoisseurs.”

Matching cheese with other foods and wines has become so popular that, far from it being relegated to the end of a meal, cheese has now been elevated to a meal in itself. Hilton Tokyo’s Food & Beverage Manager Go Kondo says that it was sky-high demand for quality cheeses that led the hotel to introduce an indulgent Chocolate and Cheese buffet in the newly renovated Marble Lounge.

“It’s a marriage made in heaven: delicious chocolate and over 20 cheeses for ¥3,885 per person,” he says. “We have blue, soft, semi-hard, hard, fresh, mild, and washed from a variety of countries.

We change items regularly and have a cheese specialist at the buffet to help customers fully appreciate their selection. It has been unbelievably popular.”

So is cheese the new wine? Some obviously think so, comparing the growth of cheese consumption in Japan to the explosion of the international wine market over the past few decades. Whereas, wine was once bought from a handful of European producers, today there is a wide choice from New World dairy producers and people are much better informed about the product.

Continuing the wine analogy, cheese “sommeliers” are expected to offer insights beyond mere sampling suggestions or pairings with wines

and spirits. Information on the history, production technique and the distinctions among cheeses mean the cheese connoisseur easily equals the infamous wine bore.

Honma defends this trend: “It is the history of cheese, the story behind cheese that is important.”

“It’s definitely because of the association with French culture,” says Tokyo resident Michel Walsh, a cheese fanatic happily buying and tasting cheese at Fermier. “With a perfectly ripened camembert, you can close your eyes and actually taste France.”

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

MARRIAGE MADE IN HEAVEN Wine connoisseur Hugh Johnson’s “principles to remember” when pairing wine and cheese include: The harder the cheese, the more tannin the wine can have.

The creamier the cheese, the more acidity is needed in the wine.

Recommended pairings are: Cream cheese/mozzarella and a light crisp white wine (simple Bordeaux Blanc).

Roquefort and Sauternes.

Goat’s cheese and Sancerre, or a light fresh Sauvignon Blanc/Soave.

Camembert and full dry white burgundy or Rhône.

Hugh Johnson 2007

Kaleidoscope / 17

ot o s by

Jeremy

Sutt o n

-H

ibbert

LUXURY DRIVING

ooij

Ph

oen B

By Jer

suoka t i M nd l will fi u nusua o u y — y d r n st by ha their e indu s s v r a i t a l c o a autom that builds unusu e s v scope a i o t s d s o i a r n e e l t r a e sm ufactu stry, but y ed snake. K apan’ n J a e t m i u s d a tiny Oppo ve ind l eight-hea i s t i o t I m o rs. ythica d aut e Moto m z i a t r o e rob ed aft m a in the n r spin. : a ca a i r h c o f o a Or Toyam o t t wen

W

ith about 750 cars a year, Mitsuoka Motors is Japan’s 10th biggest motor manufacturer. But they can hardly be compared with numbers one to nine, as these automakers are able to produce the same number of units in a matter of hours. Still, it does seem like a lot when you enter Mitsuoka’s premises in rural Toyama Prefecture. About 80 people are involved in the process of building a car. Designing, engineering and managing—it’s all done overlooking the rice plantations—cottage industry Japan-style.

Mitsuoka’s overseas operations manager Kazunori Takazawa has just picked us up from the station in a gleaming black Mitsuoka Galue. It is a car that is typical for the company: coach built, but technically untouched from its base—in this case, the Infinity M35. However, with a stately chrome grille that could have come from a Rolls-Royce, round headlights and fins at the rear, it is given an unexpected retro-twist. Mitsuoka gives the same kind of treatment to Honda’s Accord—the Mitsuoka Nouera—and Nissan’s Micra—the Mitsuoka Viewt.

The latter even resembles the good ol’ Jaguar Mk2.

18 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

TRULY INDIVIDUALISTIC

Akio Mitsuoka started the company more or less for fun in 1990.

As the Japanese importer for Volkswagen, Audi, Lamborghini, Bentley, Alfa-Romeo, Chrysler and Saab, he found there was still place in Japan for a truly individualistic car.

“All the big Japanese motor manufacturers leave the niches for what they are,” says Takazawa. “Mitsuoka picks them up.”

With their latest car they have taken that idea a step further.

Because when even a chromegrilled Galue is not individualistic enough, there is the Orochi, Mitsuoka Motors’ new top model. Back in 2001 the small team of designers were asked to draw a “supercar” very different from anything else available.

The designs of then-27-year-old Takanori Aoki were chosen to put into production. When we shake hands in his office, he says: “I wanted to create a car that was completely different from all the other supercars. The shapes of the Orochi are very organic, as I do not like massive shapes.”

Above Inset: Orochi: extravagant and eccentric design.

I wanted to create a car that was completely different from all the other supercars. The shapes of the Orochi are very organic, as I do not like massive shapes.

That is an understatement. The Orochi has come to life with a huge amount of lines, openings, bulges and convexities. No “more is less” here. This is exactly how Mitsuoka likes to see his cars— extravagant and eccentric. And he would know it is good in that way, as he has sold more then 10,000 Mitsuokas in the meantime.

The Orochi has cost him about ¥160 million to develop. And there were some problems. The first prototype was based on the much-praised Honda NSX. But as that car went out of production, Mitsuoka had to start over again. Six years and eight crash tests later, the base became a homemade spaceframe, welded from steel tubes, with a beefy Toyota V6-engine bolted on it.

FASHION SUPERCAR

It starts to drizzle when Takazawa hands me the keys of a purple Orochi that is parked outside the factory. The very car has been extensively tested and has covered 83,000 miles in less then six months. At 6’ 2”, I only just fit in. The steering wheel is adjustable; but even in its highest position, my knees still come too close. The view to the sides and the rear is simply dramatic. Fortunately there is a camera mounted on the rear bumper to give you a hint of where you are going when in reverse. Despite all that, the car soon feels pretty comfortable—and fast, too. It delivers 233 bhp to the rear wheels; but aided by the very low seating position, it seems more. There’s no need to shift gears, as the car comes standard with an automatic box—it must be the world’s first supercar with that feature.

Above inset: The Orochi is hand-made of glass-reinforced plastic.

Kaleidoscope / 19

It is a pity, though, that Mitsuoka Motors doesn’t mention top speeds or acceleration, as the Orochi is seriously fast.

“We do not try to compete with the establishment in the sports-car field,” says Takazawa. “This car is not so much about speed and acceleration, as it is about being unique. We call it a ‘fashion supercar.’”

But apart from the bad rear view, there’s no need for him to offer excuses. As long as you don’t have to back up, driving the Orochi is immensely fun. The suspension, bolted to the spaceframe, feels very strong; and although the steering is overpowered, it is neutral, too. Once you get the hang of it, it soon becomes fun to try and oversteer the car by flooring the throttle at a bend in the road. The 1.590kgs of Orochi are not easy to slide; but the higher the speed, the sooner it happens— and the more dangerous it becomes. There is no Electronic Stability Control or other electronic devices, so you do have to be careful.

MITSUOKA MOTORS OROCHI - SPECIFICATIONS

Engine

V6, 24 valves

Replacement

3,311cc

Max. power

233 bhp (172 kW) @ 5,600 rpm

Max. torque

328 Nm @ 4.400 rpm

Chassis

Steel-tube chassis

Body

GRP (Glass-Reinforced Plastic)

Sizes l/w/h

4,560/2,035/1,180mm

Wheelbase

2,600mm

SERIOUSLY FAST

Suspension

Double wishbones all round

I drive the car back from the Tateyama mountain range into the traffic of Toyama. Calm and quiet—when you don’t push it, the Orochi is very easy to drive. Even in a traffic jam, it behaves well. It is a pity, though, that Mitsuoka Motors doesn’t mention top speeds or acceleration, as the Orochi is seriously fast. If the kickdown kicks in—and it does amazingly fast, no matter at what speed—the car leaps forward like it has been bitten by a giant mosquito. The sound the V6 produces, then, is like that of an orchestra reaching its “grande finale.” I’d love to drive it back to Tokyo, but Takazawa is waiting for me at the gate of the factory.

It will be a train for me, I’m afraid.

Since April 2007, about 25 Orochis have been delivered to customers in Japan. There are 60-plus orders to fill, so the Orochi will keep the boys in Toyama going for another while.

Gearbox

Automatic, five gears

Tyres

245/45 ZR18 front, 285/40 ZR18 rear

Brakes

Ventilated discs all round

Weight

1,590kg

Top speed

Not announced

0-100 mph

Not announced

Price

From ¥11.97 million

Jeroen Booij writes for the international motoring press and is based in Amsterdam.

Kaleidoscope / 21

TECHNOLOGY

sky

NO LONGER the

Mobile phone connectivity has finally shattered the sound barrier for airborne passengers.

T

he phrase “Can you hear me now?” when speaking on a mobile phone has taken on new meaning ever since Emirates became the first airline to allow passengers to make mobile phone calls during a flight.

The obligatory response to the next question of “Where are you?” is infinitely more interesting, now that we can respond “30,000 feet over Africa.”

The UAE-based airline’s Airbus A340, between Dubai and Casablanca, made history on March 20.

The call was made possible because the aircraft had been fitted with a new system that prevents mobile devices from interfering with sensitive onboard electronic equipment. Aside from such potential safety issues, Emirates also dared to take a stand on a debate that has raged for some years. While some customers may welcome the opportunity to chitchat while in the skies, this option could, nonetheless, alienate other passengers who relish a reprieve from the constant connectivity plaguing modern life on the ground.

“Connectivity on planes is a sticky issue and the major carriers are still researching viable options to make it possible to use cellphones and surf the Internet while 35,000 feet in the air,” says one airline representative.

But for many airline carriers, it is a case of when—not if—mobile phones will be used routinely. “In fact, the new breed of plane, namely the [future] Boeing 787 Dreamliner, is wired for passenger connectivity during flight,” adds the industry expert.

With the number of airline passengers growing 6% annually and a global total of around 3 billion mobile phones in operation, international carriers are keen to expand into an untapped market that can offer a lucrative stream of revenue. This is an attractive proposition, especially since using a mobile device in the sky can earn

limit

By Nicole Fall

an airline a rate similar to that charged for making an international roaming call.

When Emirates bit the bullet and brought connectivity to its passengers, it was actually moving from a position of experience.

It had been handling 6,000 calls a month from its in-seat phones through its AeroMobile service.

The easiest way to explain how the new technology works is to think of a plane as a country in the sky with no permanent residents, just a constant stream of visiting tourists, making everyone a roamer. Once visitors to this empire in the clouds are up in the sky, they are allowed to make calls, which are routed to cellular ground networks via satellites. The passenger’s regular mobile provider will charge international roaming fees.

Passengers will also be able to receive and send text messages, but the crew will be able to prevent voice calls at certain times, such as any time during night flights. Passengers will also be requested to keep their phones on silent (vibrator) mode, according to a spokesperson for Emirates.

British Airways is one of the many carriers taking a wait-andsee approach.

“We are monitoring developments in this area with interest, but would have to evaluate quite carefully how customers would use mobiles and on which flights,” says a spokesperson for the UKbased global airline.

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Top right: Emirates has blazed the trail with in-flight mobile phone connectivity.

Inset: Bring your mobile, but remember to switch it off during takeoff and landing.

Kaleidoscope / 23

TECHNOLOGY

global

MOBILE

By Nicole Fall

It would seem obvious. Invent a device that can be used in any country around the world and charge users the price of a local call, not the astronomical international charges we have come to expect. But until recently, it remained that—a good idea on paper.

F

ortunately, phone carriers and handset developers no longer have price of a local call. The downside, as a phone without a country, is it the iron grip they once held on consumers, and developers are requires a country code and area code for every call, even when just stepping up to the plate with new mobile innovations designed to help next-door. keeping-in-touch be a lot cheaper.

“A global standard for mobile networks has been a pipe dream At the end of 2007, Cubic Telecom released Max Roam, billed as “the since [the] early GSM days, and yet still proves to be somewhat SIM that doesn’t know that you are traveling.” For an outlay of 29.99 euros, elusive—although certainly better—with 3G and multi-band including a 5-euro phone credit, users chipsets,” says Lars Coshbuy a SIM that can be used in any Iishi, director of Digital Media unlocked GSM phone. After picking This all means you no longer need to use your at Wireless Watch Japan, an phone numbers in the U.S., France, independent news source on the usual carrier and rack up bills amounting to the UK and four other countries for country’s mobile industry. $60 for a 10-minute long-distance call free, users can then pick up to 50 Vodafone, the world’s largest more numbers for a further 2 euros mobile operator, is trialing 4G per month, to be used in any other wireless technology, known as country they visit. Rather similar to using Skype, the phone connection LTE, that also results in a similar convenience of being able to use applies Wi-Fi technology and can produce the similar inexplicable echoes the same handset in Europe, the U.S. or Asia. and noises we have come to tolerate from Internet calls.

Unfortunately, a rollout of LTE is not planned until 2010/11—bad This all means you no longer need to use your usual carrier and rack news for users searching for compatibility in every country they up bills amounting to $60 for a 10-minute long-distance call, or, worse visit and the clear connection they have come to expect from their still, rent a local handset and spend your entire time trying to work out mobile phones. how to use the mobile, plus Cosh-Iishi remains downbeat about global uniformity in the very near phoning everyone with the new future. “Getting 700 operators worldwide to adopt, let alone deploy, a temporary number. truly global common platform in the next five to seven years could be One advantage to Cubic difficult. There are several major players with so-called single-vendor Telecom’s technology is that solutions that are offering alternative-value propositions,” says Coshpeople who have moved Iishi. “The existence of these [albeit disruptive] forces continue to drive overseas can still keep in potential innovation, which is quite likely in the best interests of the touch with family for the end-users, who actually foot the bill.”

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Kaleidoscope / 25

HEALTH

BACK TO

nature

By Karryn Cartelle

Dumplings with pesticide, food-mislabeling fraud, and expired products being knowingly sold to the public in Japan have led consumers to take a harder look at what they put in their mouth.

T

Cour

t

he A esy T

lishan

Cafe

his awareness is slowly leading people away from the preservative-laden, boxed bento of local convenience stores and toward the fresh natural cuisine being served up at organic restaurants and sold at organic supermarkets.

“People are afraid of food,” says John Bayles, a partner in the Alishan Organic Center in Saitama. “There is an increasing amount of evidence showing the negative effects the chemicals we are consuming are having on our body and the bodies of our children.”

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the National Academy of Sciences in the U.S. have revealed that standard chemicals are up to 10-times more toxic to children than to adults. They also found that “in blood samples of children aged two to four, concentrations of pesticide residues are six-times higher in children eating conventionally farmed fruits and vegetables compared with those eating organic food.”

This high level of tension surrounding food and the public’s increased access to food-related information has fostered a growing demand for organic options. In Japan, Bayles has seen the demand for organic food increase steadily over the last 20 years. Lately, he has even noticed that there has “been an explosion in restaurants using organic ingredients.”

Asuka, in the back streets of Daikanyama, is one such place.

Since opening their doors nine months ago, owner Asuka Hashimoto has served an increasing number of customers

26 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

concerned about from where their food is coming. But, Hashimoto warns, Japan still has a long way to go.

“Food-labeling rules aren’t as strict here. If there is one ingredient with a particular chemical and six others with that same chemical, only one has to be put on the label,” Hashimoto says. That innocent rice ball with five ingredients could possibly have over 20 different additives in it.

Consumers may be wiser, but they still have to watch out. Realizing this demand, companies have jumped on the ecological bandwagon, but without embracing the right environmental ideals.

“The words ‘health’ and ‘ecology’ have become a sales point for large companies to create an image,” says Hashimoto. “The overuse of these words is sad for people whose businesses are built around being truly healthy and ecological, as their sales suffer amid the [competition from] larger corporations.”

Part of the reason Leza Lowitz, the owner of Sun & Moon yoga studio in Meguro, eats organic food is “to support local growers [rather than large companies] and help sustain the local economy.” She also “eats organic food to know where it comes from and to get as close to the source, the Earth, as possible.”

Lowitz uses the PAL system, a Japanese consumer co-op union that delivers fresh food straight to your door. “Their organic foodstuffs are reasonably priced and their catalog features articles about health and diet, as well as interviews with local farmers,” she adds.

Making the switch to organic isn’t cheap; and with a limited budget Bayles recommends “you buy organic for the ‘dirty dozen’ [see side bar], as well as organic dairy products and meat.”

Courtesy The Alishan Center

In spite of a good wash, the 12 fruit and vegetables in the list still contain a higher level of pesticide residue in comparison to other foods. On the other hand, fruit and vegetables like banana, kiwi, mango, papaya, pineapple, asparagus, avocado, broccoli, cauliflower, corn, onion and peas don’t necessarily need to be organic.

“People need to be aware of what they eat,” Hashimoto adds, “and how their body reacts to what they put inside them.”

Through creating a healthy body we are better aware of when we eat something that doesn’t agree with us—and are then able to change our diet to suit our own personal needs.

Although organic demand is on the rise, consumers in Japan won’t be seeing a reduction in prices anytime soon, as all food prices continue to increase. At present, some food items, such as rolled oats, are roughly the same—whether organic or conventional—while products like organic cheese can be double the price over their standard counterpart.

It all comes down to “you are what you eat,” and the old saying rings true today more than it ever has.

“It’s worth spending a little extra to buy food in its purist form to put into your body. Your body needs that food to convert to energy, so you want the most natural, healthy nutrients possible to fuel yourself,” Lowitz neatly summarizes.

Karryn Cartelle is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

ORGANIC ONLIN E PAL System www.pal.or.jp (Japan ese only) TENGU NAT www.alishan-organic-URAL FOODS center.com (English) WA RABE MURA www.warabe.co.jp/en WHOLEFOODS glish2.html (English) ASUKAONE www.asukaone.jp

ORGANIC MA RK ETS Ibaraki-ichi Roppongi Hills, East Every Saturday, 7-9 Court a.m.

EA RTH DAY MA RKETS Yoyogi Park Once a month www.earthday marke t.com

Top collage: Organic food at the Earth Day Markets and (far right) lunch menu at The Alishan Cafe Left inset: Veggie burger set at The Alishan Cafe

WARNING: HIGH PESTICIDE LEVEL

Apples Nectarines Raspberries Celery

Cherries Peaches Strawberries Potatoes

Grapes Pears Bell Peppers Spinach Kaleidoscope / 27

STYLE

By Justin McCurry • Photos by Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert

Toru Icho’s approach to business is as unconventional as the bespoke suits that adorn his shop, tucked away in a side street in Tokyo’s Omotesando neighborhood.

S

ince launching his eponymous label in 2000, Icho has built up a loyal following among clients who, though no slaves to fashion, are willing to risk something a little different.

But you won’t find his Harris Tweed jackets or reversible wool tunics in London, Paris or New York.

Three years ago Icho, a slim, soft-spoken 60-year-old with a mop of silvery-black hair, challenged perceived business wisdom and abruptly stopped selling his clothes overseas.

“We produced a lot of items for export to the U.S. and Europe, but the costs started to mount,” Icho tells Kaleidoscope at his airy, minimalist store-cum-atelier. “The weaving itself is difficult enough, but we then had to factor in tax, shipping costs, as well as showing our collections in places like Milan and Paris.

“Last year was the first full year we didn’t sell our pieces overseas,” he says, “and, financially, it was our best year yet.”

Now, with the focus shifted to his Omotesando shop—which he runs with the help of his son and daughter-in-law and a handful of other staff—Icho is able to devote more time to his customers’ individual needs.

It is a far cry from his previous job creating private labels for Japanese department stores. “I seemed to spend a lot of my time in meetings with buyers,” he says.

28 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

“I didn’t have the opportunity to communicate my ideas, so I thought it was time to start over again and set up something that brought me closer to the people who wear my clothes,” Icho says. “One of my customers said that if she goes to a boutique she has to accept the designer’s ideas. But we are about creating, not acceptance.”

Though he also makes women’s clothes, the bulk of Icho’s customers comprise successful, confident men who are searching for more than the fleeting satisfaction of pulling on an expensive piece of handcrafted cloth.

It is little wonder that they turn to Icho. His material is made on ancient, hand-operated looms that are much slower than their modern counterparts, enabling craftsmen to produce tightly woven fabrics of the highest quality.

The reverence for tradition that lies at the heart of Icho’s designs can be traced to his Kyoto origins.

“The Kyoto influence—and, in particular, Zen—gives harmony and balance to my clothes,” explains Icho, resplendent in a dark morningsuit jacket worn over a simple white shirt, together with dark-blue bandsman’s trousers and black pumps.

Despite having a sculptor father and mother who worked in the kimono trade, Icho spent much of his childhood studiously overlooking the aesthetic possibilities of his hometown.

“My father used to love walking around Kyoto taking photographs of shrines and temples,” he says. “But I wasn’t interested. All I wanted to do was play baseball.” It was only when he came to Tokyo in his twenties, he adds, “that I appreciated how beautiful Kyoto is.”

Given the time and dedication that goes into every piece, Icho’s prices are lower than many would expect: jackets cost between ¥200,000 and ¥300,000, while trousers average around ¥80,000, depending on the fabric.

“More than 80% of our material is original, and the rest we buy in.

But even with bought material, suppliers look at what we have done to it and don’t recognize their own cloth,” Icho says. “I can’t say it’s totally original, but it’s definitely different.”

His reversible jackets, which make up about a fifth of his collection, have become something of a talking point. One of the best examples is a jacket of washed gabardine that, when turned “inside-out,” is transformed into a wool serge tunic.

Icho’s versatility is also evident in his made-to-measure shoes, designed in-house but manufactured in Italy.

“Our customers want total coordination, so we are designing other items, too, now,” Icho says. “They start with a jacket; and when they realize how comfortable it is, they want bespoke shirts and sweaters, tuxedos … and a stylish dress for their wife.”

After taking each customer’s measurements himself, Icho takes about two

weeks to make the toile, and another two turning it into the finished product. His reliance on traditional methods, combined with his perfectionist streak, means he produces only about 250 pieces a year.

Buyers include a sizeable foreign contingent—mainly Brits, Americans and Australians. They make regular pilgrimages to the tailor from Kyoto who is quietly changing the way they think about, and wear, their clothes.

“Our customers have money and can easily buy Louis Vuitton or Prada,” Icho says. “But they don’t care about labels—they’re more interested in style.”

Justin McCurry is Tokyo correspondent for the Guardian.

RIVER

DEEP, MOUNTAIN

By Nicole Fall

Japan’s trendsetting beauty brands are sourcing from the four corners of the Earth to bring their customers fresh new ingredients.

N

ext time you reach for that pot of moisturizer or fill the tub with bubble bath, take a long hard look at the product’s ingredients. If Japan’s trendiest skincare brands are anything to go by, components may literally have been sourced from the depths of the ocean—all the way up to Japan’s highest peaks.

Pure deep-sea water and salt pumped from Toyama Bay off Japan’s northwest coast, spa water from the Japan Alps or herbs picked from meadows in Italy are just some of the locations from where three of the country’s leading skincare brands are sourcing ingredients.

Tree of Life, Agronatura and Style Meets People are the brands leading the charge, bringing to consumers new ingredients and, with them, fresh experiences from around the world—all without their customers having to leave the comforts of Tokyo’s shopping centers.

The evocatively titled Tree of Life was first established in 1945 as a camera store, switching to porcelain tableware before finding a niche in dealing in natural herbs and essential oils. With 75 stores spread throughout Japan and one in Taiwan, Tree of Life has gone from founding member of the Aromatherapy Association of Japan to the leading Japan distributor of organic and naturally sourced skincare items.

Inset left: Kick back with a Blue Margarita. Just don’t drink it!

Inset right: Beauty comes from within. Today’s vanity products are also designed to be swallowed.

30 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

The company’s main market is women in their twenties and thirties, who are driving change in the beauty industry by demanding ingredients that are ethically sourced and/or contain the world’s finest natural elements.

Rather more surprisingly, male consumers are now demanding the same. “The aromatherapy market for men is rapidly growing, too,” says Chizu Noguchi, spokeswoman for Tree of Life Co., Ltd. “The philosophy to our brand is promoting shizen, which means natural; kenko, healthy; and tanoshimi, joy in people’s lives—something that both women and men of all ages aspire to,” she adds. “Tree of Life has over 37 partner firms that we deal directly with from abroad, and we import ingredients, manufacture and sell a wide variety of herb and aromatherapy products—and not all Japanese companies have that kind of capability.”

Customers searching for soaps, oils and beauty products will not leave Tree of Life disappointed. In fact, they may even leave with some new knowledge about the organic skincare industry. At the brand’s flagship store in fashionable Omotesando, there is a demonstration counter where staff mix products on the spot and sell soap-making kits—a relaxing pastime consumers are encouraged to do in their spare time, a hobby designed to calm the mind.

For those consumers willing to leave Tokyo to acquire more in-depth beauty know-how, Tree of Life has a hotel in the historic city of Kandy in Sri Lanka.

“Kandy is rich in nature, culture and Ayurvedic wisdom, and has a long association with traditional Asian medicine spanning a history of more than 5,000 years,” explains Noguchi.

In some of Japan’s smartest cosmetic surgery clinics and at Osaka’s only boutique hotel, there is only one skincare

Buying organic is no mere trend in J ap

an ... It has now

product line to be found: Agronatura.

Conceived in Japan from herbs and flowers grown in Piemonte, the heart of the Italian countryside, the brand is designed to look Italian—from its Roman signage and design, right through to its ingredients. In fact, Agronatura does such a convincing job of being Italian that many consumers are convinced it can’t be Japanese.

The brand is sold from a stylish flagship store in Tokyo Midtown’s shopping complex that is packed daily with customers looking for reassurance, from its safer organically sourced ingredients.

One of its best-selling products is Rose Water, a lightly fragranced scent taken from its popular Rose Series line. The brand’s Web site features a blog full of photos taken from its fields of plants, such as the saponaria leaf used in its shampoos, and later of Agronatura’s lab where ingredients are mixed under hygienic conditions.

For consumers searching for some amusement with their natural ingredients, head to Style Meets People, also in Tokyo Midtown.

Its beautiful store launched in spring 2007 features a range of bath oils inspired by sophisticated cocktails. Best-selling product Blue Margarita should not be drunk, but rather certainly appreciated after a long day, fulfilling the brand’s promise to provide relaxation and luxury—or relaxury, as Style Meets People calls it. The twotoned oils contain deep-sea salt water; other products in the lineup include Black Velvet, After Midnight and Mimosa.

Unsurprisingly, this line-up has become popular with males.

“There are a group of men who come in by themselves and

e] part [b e c om

of Japanese

if mers’ l u s n o c

le. esty

become regular, good customers because they know what they like,” says Masako Matsuura, founder of Style Meets People.

The company also has a store in New York, and this has inspired a range of delicious soy wax candles called Manhattan, a regular sellout due to limited quantities. Inspired by taste, the fragrances include Bitter Sweet Chocolate, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

“Buying organic is no mere trend in Japan,” adds Matsuura. “It has now [become] part of Japanese consumers’ lifestyle, to protect themselves and their environment. This feeling will only increase in popularity.”

Nicole Fall is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

Tree of Life, 6-3-8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03 3409 1778. www.treeoflife.co.jp/ Agronatura, Midtown Galleria 2F, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03 5413 3591. http://agronatura.jp/ Style Meets People, Midtown Galleria 3F, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: 03 5413 3705. www.stylemeetspeople.com Top: Flowers are a key ingredient in organic skincare products.

Inset: Tree of Life’s flagship store in trendy Omotesando makes soap on the premises.

Kaleidoscope / 31

Photos and Text by Catherine Shaw

A

t six o’clock on a frosty morning, several women are on their knees at Tokyo’s Togo Shrine. They are not here to pray, but instead are sifting through colorful second-hand kimono piled high on the grounds of the shrine’s gardens and selling for a fraction of the price usually charged in the capital’s chic vintage clothing shops.

Despite the early hour, there is already a small crowd examining an eclectic mix of domestic, farming and business artifacts.

This is treasure-hunting Japanese style, at one of the numerous flea markets held during weekends all around Japan—in shrines, gardens and halls. Although there is plenty of what could be unkindly termed as “junk,” Japanese flea markets offer a unique cultural shopping experience and, for those who know what they are looking for, the chance of a great find.

Japan’s flea markets provide a surprisingly wide range of interesting items, thanks largely to the country’s isolation from the outside world from the early 1600s until the 1850s.

Another reason is because, until fairly recently, many Japanese avoided buying second-hand items—especially those with emotional connections, such as wedding kimono (which are believed to adopt the first owner’s character) and dolls (which some believe retain active spirits).

Some artifacts, such as antique erotic prints, postcards and photographs, simply hold little interest for Japanese, thus creating an opportunity for other collectors. The deeply ingrained respect for arts and crafts has maintained Japanese art traditions at a consistently high standard.

Theodore Manning, author of the invaluable pocket-sized guide, Flea Markets of Japan: A Pocket Guide for Antique Buyers (Kodansha International, 2003), explains that flea market vendors are usually very well-informed professional dealers and can tell at a glance where something came from, its date and why it is special. Explaining the enduring popularity of the flea market, he says, “The flea markets beat the shops for a lot of reasons: the prices are lower; the setting, often the grounds of a shrine or temple, is more attractive; the atmosphere is less stuffy; and the merchants, though less attentive than their retail counterparts, are willing to state an opinion or give advice. That's a welcome change from the polite treatment you get in, say, department stores, which feels good but isn't very helpful.”

As ever in Japan, there is an accepted way of doing things.

One good rule is to be polite at all times and to avoid any hardball negotiation techniques. Also, don’t look too excited by what you have found, but rather show interest by asking questions about where it came from, its age, while clucking over the quality and pointing out defects such as scratches or cracks. Spend time carefully examining the object—show you are slightly interested

Top: Nogi Shrine’s flea market Inset right: Reframe old photographs.

Kaleidoscope / 33

Most serious collectors and dealers visit the flea markets as early as 4 a.m. when market-sellers are just setting up. They come armed with torches and are long gone by the time tourists arrive much later.

and then back off gracefully, allowing the market-seller to maintain the negotiations. Seasoned collectors remind newcomers that Tokyo’s markets are not the souks of Morocco and Japanese sensibilities require that dignity be preserved.

Even at an outdoor market in the middle of the night, social niceties should be observed.

Kara Besher, an avid collector of antiques and owner of Tokyo’s Maru Gallery (www.marugallery.com), warns: “Most serious collectors and dealers visit the flea markets as early as 4 a.m. when market-sellers are just setting up. They come armed with torches and are long gone by the time tourists arrive much later.” Besher recommends coming well prepared carrying a backpack (to keep hands free), magnifying glass, small torch, pen and paper, and your own packing materials.

Not speaking Japanese need not be a barrier to success at the antique markets, she says, although a little Japanese helps. To avoid embarrassing misunderstandings, ask for the price to be written down for you.

A little research goes a long way to help spot a valuable artifact amidst the heaps of plastic kewpie dolls and chipped pots. Alistair Seton’s Collecting Japanese Antiques (Tuttle Publishing, 2004) provides a very useful background to most collectibles, from textiles to screens and scrolls.

Also, look out for experts who know for what they are looking; you may be surprised to see what they consider valuable. I recently visited several Tokyo markets with Indian and Southeast Asian art specialist Jonathan Tucker and Top: Colorful treasures can still be found.

Inset top: Look for interesting maps.

Insert middle: Flea markets combine history, culture and artifacts.

Inside right: Check quality before you buy, as most statues are damaged.

was fascinated to see him pay ¥2,000 for a dusty cardboard box of yellowing photograph albums.

“But look at this,” explained Tucker, turning to the middle page in one album and pointing to a striking photograph of a beautiful young woman in traditional kimono, “Properly framed this would be worth about £500 in London. It’s really quite exquisite, but you need to look hard for these sorts of things.”

A day with Tucker saw me returning home with an interesting stone temple sculpture (stone is generally undervalued) and several antique maps. “Look for maps in old books and albums,” Tucker advises.

Besher recommends getting to know the dealers. “People here value personal connections, where trust is built over time.

Dealers depend on certain regular clients, and they will often hold the better items aside for them. They keep these hidden under boxes until the customer arrives. Sometimes the dealer will call me and tell me to hurry, because so-and-so rival customer is on their way!”

Most flea markets are held irregularly, so check schedules in the local press or at www.jnto.go.jp.

Catherine Shaw is a freelance writer based in Tokyo.

UNDERPRICED COLLECTIBLES * With the government ban lifted, Japanese erotica paper prints are now very collectible and relatively inexpensive * Kimono stencils with interesting patterns frame beautifully * Antique farming equipment, colorful shop signs and war memorabilia

Kaleidoscope / 35

By David Umeda 1

3

2

4

Images Courtesy Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of Art 1.

2.

3.

4.

Pierre-Etienne-Theodore Rousseau, “Edge of the Forest, near the Gorges d’Apremont,” Oil on canvas, 76.0x95.0cm Henri Moore, Four-piece Reclining Figure (1972-73), Bronze, 213.0cm (h) Jean-François Millet, “The Sower” Koichiro Kondo (1884-1962), “Rainy Season” (1951), Ink on paper, 54.3x61.0cm

Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of Art 1-4-27 Kugawa, Kofu-shi,Yamanashi-ken 400-0065.Tel. 055-228-3322.

Loved as Millet’s Museum since its opening in 1978, the Yamanashi Prefectural Museum of Art is enclosed in a garden rich in greenery.

Arts Park has a collection of sculptures by Rodin, Henry Moore, Bourdelle, Zadkine and Maillol, capturing a variety of expressions for the four seasons. In the permanent exhibition, which is changed in spring. summer, autumn and winter, there are works from all over the world, such as Millet’s “The Sower” and those of the Barbizon School, which includes Rousseau and Daubigny, Turner, Corot, Courbet and Chagall. The exhibition’s Japanese artists include Tsuguharu Fujita, Ryuzaburo Umehara, Ichiro Fukuzawa and Kazuo Kakurai.

A variety of educational activities and publications are available, including workshops, concerts and art-related lectures. The visual disadvantage program enables visitors to experience artwork through other senses, such as touch. Local artists and those with an interest in art can also reserve the rental galleries for general use, and visitors have high-definition televisions at their disposal.

David Umeda is Senior Editor of Paradigm.

36 / Kaleidoscope

MAY/JUNE 08

Opening Hours 9:30-17:00 (admittance up to 16:30). Closed Mon (if a National holiday, closed on Tue instead), year-end and New Year’s holidays.

Admission (group of 20 or more) Varies according to exhibition. Adult, ¥500 (¥400); University and High school students, ¥210 (¥160); Junior high and Elementary students, ¥100 (¥80).

Access From Kofu Station, on the JR Chuo Line, take a bus bound for Nirasaki, Kugawa-danchi, Shakaifukushi-mura, Nakamurajunkan, to “Kenritsu-Bijutsukan.” Or, from Shosenkyo, take a bus bound for Shikishima-Eigyosho, to “Kenritsu-Bijutsukan.”