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THE ITALIAN-CANADIAN MAGAZINE MAILED TO HOMES IN THE GREATER MONTREAL AND OTTAWA AREAS

THE NEW EMERGING ITALIANS

FOLLOW US TO

FRIULI THE ITALIANCANADIAN DIET

LES ITALIENS DANS LA VIEILLE CAPITALE

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COVER: STEFANIE TERRANA ONE OF US • UNA DI NOI • UNE D’ENTRE NOUS APRIL / MAY 2014 • VOL.9 • NO.2

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

APRIL / MAY 2014 Volume 9 Number 2 PUBLISHER’S NOTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 EDITORIAL Matteo Renzi: Il nuovo politicus faber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

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Around the table: the Italian-Canadian diet . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Intorno alla tavola: la dieta italo-canadese . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Autour de la table: la diète italo-canadienne . . . . . . . . . . . 20 The Italian Paradox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 To Your Health: Italian cuisine! / La cuisine italienne à votre santé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Food Culture Shock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Italians’ Changing Appetite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Edible Expressions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Recommended Italian Cookbooks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Street Food all’Italiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

LIFE & PEOPLE Sur la trace des Italiens de Québec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

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PUBLISHER AND EDITOR Tony Zara

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Filippo Salvatore

EDITORIAL DEPUTY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Adam Zara MONTREAL MANAGING EDITOR Gabriel Riel-Salvatore

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT & COMMUNITY AFFAIRS Carole Gagliardi

WEB MANAGER Gabriel Riel-Salvatore

PROOFREADER Aurélie Ptito

ART DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTION David Ferreira Gabriel Riel-Salvatore GRAPHIC DESIGN David Ferreira

FOOD

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EXECUTIVE

PHOTOGRAPHY Vincenzo D’Alto Michel Ostaszewski Fahri Yavus Michael Revelakis

Recipe: Baccalà mantecato & soft polenta . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

ADVERTISING

LIVING ITALIAN STYLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

VICE PRESIDENT – ADVERTISING SALES MARKETING & SALES TORONTO EXECUTIVES MONTREAL Earl Weiner Frank Crisafi Anthony Zara

FASHION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 FRIULI Friuli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Trieste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Sipping True Brew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Udine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Gorizia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Grado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Aquileia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 10 Flavourful Friuli Venezia Giulia Dishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 I grandi vini bianchi del Friuli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Spilimbergo’s Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Famous Brands and Personalities From Friuli Venezia Giulia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Il Centro di Cultura Canadese dell’Università di Udine . . . 69

CONTRIBUTORS Marcello Toninelli • Sarah Mastroianni • Laura D’Amelio • Julie Aubé • Anders Jensen • Vanessa Santilli • Robin Poon • Paolo Patrito • Chef Fabrizio Caprioli • Alessia Sara Domanico • Sabrina Marandola • Pericle Camuffo • Leah Kellar • Annamaria Brondani Menghini • Amanda Fulginiti • Gaia Massai • Stephanie Grella • Alessandra Ferraro • Alain Raymond • Claudia Prestigiacomo • Pasquale Artuso 9300 Henri-Bourassa West, suite 100, Montreal, Québec H4S 1L5 Tel.: 514 337-7870 I Fax: 514 337-6180 or by e-mail at: info@panoramitalia.com Legal deposit - Bibliothèque nationale du Québec / National Library of Canada - ISSN: 1916-6389

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Top 5 Questions For Someone Coming To Work In Canada 70

ONE MORE DAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Printed by: 514.337.7870 www.accentimpression.com Montreal, Québec, Canada

EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 SPORTS Maserati: The century old legend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

READERS’ COMMENTS RE: Mother Tongue: A look at the unique way ItalianMontrealers speak English, Vol. 9 No. 1 It is interesting to see that, once again, Fabrizio Sciola is being quoted as having come up with the idea for a Saint-Leonard Dictionary some 15 years ago. I selfpublished a chapbook entitled The Official St. Leonard Dictionary in 1994 and issued a revised and updated second edition in 1998. Though it was meant as a satirical work, I am always quite serious about the fact that it is copyrighted material. It has been quoted in a number of local newspapers and other publications and continues to sell, both at a retail location in Montreal and through online sources. It is, therefore, quite disappointing to see my original material misrepresented, yet again, in your otherwise fine publication. Just setting the record straight… John Trivisonno

RE: Dossier Multilinguisme, Vol. 9 No. 1 Je voudrais vous féliciter pour votre dossier sur le multilinguisme. Il est intéressant, et surtout il reflète bien la diversité des situations dans laquelle se retrouve la langue italienne au Québec, sans tomber dans le piège de la surenchère émotionnelle qui vient habituellement brouiller les cartes dans ce débat. Éclairant et enrichissant. Merci! Michel Pirro

RE: Dossier Bologna, Vol. 9 No. 1 I absolutely enjoyed your featured articles showcasing Bologna in the Feb/Mar issue. From the fashion, to food, to architecture, as well as recommendations of restaurants and hotels, I am now craving to experience it all! I will definitely keep these articles for future reference in hopes that my travels will someday lead me to that magical city. Looking forward to seeing what new cities will be explored in future issues. Sabrina De Luca

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RE: Italian Language School in Montreal, Vol. 8 No. 4 I am presently Visiting Professor in the Dipartimento di Chimica at the University of Pavia. Everyone here speaks excellent English, but in regards to teaching second-generation Italian children in Canada, my own experience with my daughter, who was seven years old at the time, is that Italian was badly taught. Imagine teaching children Italian grammar instead of teaching them songs in Italian, etc., so that they love speaking the language first. And what qualifications do these Canadian teachers have that makes them suited to teach Dante's language? Certainly not the people I have seen at the university level in Montreal and elsewhere. You need qualified specialists of the Italian language - where are they? My daughter is now married and lives in Rome and speaks perfect Italian that she learned during a sabbatical leave at the University of Bologna. This is not a criticism, but before you push Italian on people, you need to have the proper resources and know how to teach languages to the elementary grades. Nick Serpone


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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Réno-Dépôt and Sid Lee Use Charbonneau Commission as Pretext for Shocking Ad Campaign “Tony doesn’t think we’re charging enough” and “You can increase the price of your bill yourself.” early March, these two slogans were displayed around town on billboards and bus shelters with the goal of communicating to consumers of home renovation products just how inexpensive prices are at Réno-Dépôt. Sid Lee, one of the largest advertising agencies in the world, with the obvious consent from Réno-Dépôt decided to use findings of the Charbonneau Commission to create a shocking and controversial ad campaign designed to grab the consumer’s attention. Evidently, the slogan beginning with “Tony” refers to the alleged price fixing and supposed overpricing of municipal infrastructure construction contracts by contractors of Italian descent. Now, the mere fact that these two organizations felt comfortable in slurring an entire cultural community to make their point speaks volumes. Where do I begin? Yes, one of the often mentioned names of Charbonneau Commission was that of a certain “Tony.” And yes, “Tony” is one of the most popular given names in our community, especially of the baby boomer generation. But do they really know what this name means to us and where it comes from? Do they know that Tony is a diminutive of Antonio? Do they know that the popularization of the name Antonio comes from the great reverence that Italians have for Saint Antonio of Padua? Do they know that we are usually named after a grandfather on the male side who bore this name? Do they know of the love and affection we have for our grandfathers? Do they know why we hold our parents in the highest regard, enough to name our children after them? Do they know that using the name “Tony” to defame Canadians of Italian descent is an affront to all who bore this name and all other popular Italian names with pride, honesty and dignity? I wonder if they know. If my grandfather Antonio could be with us, he would tell you that the 68 years he lived were dedicated to carving out a better place for himself and his family. He would tell you that he proudly raised five children relying only on his back-breaking toil, 7 days a week, on rented farmland. He would tell you that his pride and joy are his children and grandchildren. He would tell you that he is confident that the exemplary life he led was instrumental in creating upstanding citizens with great values to be proud of. The Italian-Canadian community, like any other, has its detractors. We are certainly not immune. Many Italian-sounding names have been mentioned during this commission. So have many French-sounding names, for that matter. It is not up to us to judge. If some deliberately broke the law, it is up to the authorities to take them to task. But can we as a community allow our good name to be defamed and stand idly by? Can we continue to allow this much to the detriment of the next Tony who unsuspectingly and enthusiastically applies for his dream job all to be denied for the wrong reasons? I say NO. Whether your name is Tony (Antonio), Joe (Giuseppe, Joseph), Frank (Franco, Francesco), Charlie (Caloggero), Bob (Liborio) or perhaps Mary (Maria), Angie (Angiolina, Angelina), Josie (Giuseppina), Rosie (Rosina) or any other God given, good old Italian name, it is your duty and responsibility to, once and for all, stand up for yourself, your family and your heritage. Historically, we in the community have dealt with xenophobic statements by laughing them off or conveniently ignoring them. This attitude has afforded companies such as Réno-Dépôt and Sid Lee the confidence to unapologetically design a commercial campaign to garner the maximum amount of attention at our expense. Not to mention many other examples over the years.

In

A bittersweet denouement In mid-March, amidst the outcry of the Italian-Canadian community initiated through a CJAD report, Réno-Dépôt took steps to immediately remove all billboards bearing the name “Tony.” In an official statement to the National Congress of Italian-Canadians, a representative of the company apologized, but restated the humoristic intent of the advertising campaign; he said the company never intended to offend the Italian-Canadian community. On the one hand, it’s comforting to know that our complaints were taken seriously and that the billboards were taken down, but on the other, it’s still saddening to think that world class marketing professionals sat around a conference table with representatives of a major Canadian company and – knowingly or ignorantly – decided this was a great idea. In the final analysis, we must continue to emphatically denounce any ethnic slur directed at our community and culture. We are 300,000 strong in Quebec, and this accounts for much economic clout. A clear message must be sent that our pocket books cannot be taken for granted. Our ancestors and current and future generations deserve no less! With respect, Tony (Antonio) Zara Publisher 12

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EDITORIAL

Il nuovo politicus faber Ritratto del Premier italiano Matteo Renzi Come va interpretata la figura del nuovo Premier italiano Matteo Renzi? anti sono stati i giudizi negativi espressi sul neoPremier. Eccone due pubblicati sul Corriere della Filippo Salvatore Sera: 1.“La vera innovazione del ‘Renzi 1’ è Renzi stesso, il più giovane premier, per giunta extraparlamentare, dall’Unità d’Italia a oggi, e uno dei più ambiziosi”. 2. “Nell'universo di Matteo Renzi tutto si mescola”. Le numerose e pungenti considerazioni di tanti editorialisti o esperti di vario genere hanno tendenza a dare un'impietosa immagine di Matteo Renzi: suo discorso fatto a braccio al Senato, la mancanza di dati precisi nel fare le sue considerazioni, il fatto di essersi messo le mani in tasca durante il suo discorso, il suo tono più elettoralistico che istituzionale. Gli vengono rimproverate tante manchevolezze. Quelle che dovrebbero essere le manchevolezze di Matteo Renzi sono al contrario ed in realtà la sua forza come uomo politico “nuovo”. Vediamo perché. Michel de Montaigne nei suoi Essais scrive: “On dit bien vrai qu’un honnête homme c'est un homme mêlé”. Si può tracciare un parallelo tra l’uomo “mescolato” cui si riferiva il saggista francese nel secondo Cinquecento, periodo di aspri scontri tra difesa dell’ortodossia cattolica e ribellismo protestante, e la realtà del secondo decennio del terzo millennio, quella di oggi, post-ideologica e mondializzata. Alla certezza dell’homo faber rinascimentale, misura di tutte le cose, si contrapponeva l’inquietudine prodotta dalle grandi scoperte geografiche e dal contatto con civiltà fino ad allora sconosciute, oltre al dibattito sulla nascente cosmologia eliocentrica. Alle forme “chiuse” rinascimentali stavano subentrando quelle “contorte” del manierismo e quelle “aperte” del barocco. Poi nel Seicento con Galileo Galilei, tra gli altri, è prevalsa la visione scientifica di cui sonno stati la massima espressione in Europa l’illuminismo settecentesco e il positivismo ottocentesco e il neo-positivismo novecentesco. Dal Settecento alla fine del Novecento è prevalso il concetto di progresso come ideale da perseguire. Questa è la visione che mi piace chiamare “ideologica”. Ed è ad essa che ha fatto ricorso buona parte degli editorialisti. È difficile da accettare per chi come loro adotta rigidi principi interpretativi, il fatto che un politico possa e non possa essere fautore del progresso, abbia una coscienza ecologica e difenda la libera iniziativa economica e la giustizia sociale. Sia loro sia tanti altri uomini politici e intellettuali “schierati”– e sono ancora tanti! – fanno parte del paradigma interpretativo “ideologico” del vecchiume mentale, quello dominante prima della caduta del muro di Berlino nel 1989. Difendono cioè un paradigma concettuale che si sta sbriciolando, anzi è venuto meno. Il post-modernismo, di cui politicamente Matteo Renzi è un esempio, relativizza sia la visione classista del tardo-marxismo sia il laissez-faire senza regole del capitalismo selvaggio, sia la coscienza del limite alla crescita e la difesa dell’ambiente. Nicolò Machiavelli insegna ne Il Principe che la vera virtù del principe nuovo – e Matteo Renzi ne è un esempio eclatante – non è tanto saper arrivare al potere, ma saperlo conservare. La vera misura come politico di Matteo Renzi si parrà se e quando saprà far valere la sua “virtù” e soprattutto se saprà durare. Niente da eccepire verso la sua ambizione, anche se smisurata, se la persegue e la indirizza anche verso il bene comune. Se Renzi

T

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riuscirà a farlo, durerà e subentrerà al ventennio di berlusconismo incentrato sulla ricerca dell’utile personale. Finora Renzi ha saputo essere spregiudicato, una qualità in politica, e, attraverso le primarie, ha saputo sormontare i giochi pericolosi ed i pesanti condizionamenti di partito all’interno del PD. Cosa che l’integro moralmente, ma politicamente inetto Enrico Letta non era riuscito a fare e ne ha pagato il prezzo. Se Letta è stato un cunctator, (ha promesso tanto, ma ha fatto poco, anzi pochissimo in quasi un anno) Renzi si rivelerà un politicus faber, un protagonista spericolato del fare. Solo così, con risultati concreti, potrà giocarsi la partita alle prossime elezioni nazionali previste per il 2018 e vincerle. La recente vittoria del Pd alle elezioni regionali in Sardegna è un segno incoraggiante e lo sarà ancora di più se riuscirà a restare il primo partito alle imminenti elezioni europee. A fine marzo 2014, il Partito Democratico resta il primo partito italiano. La rinata Forza Italia è troppo Berlusconicentrica e dipendente. Se Angelino Alfano ha lungimiranza e acume dovrebbe saper far diventare il suo Nuovo Centrodestra il punto di riferimento e coagulo delle forze, come quella di Fratelli d’Italia, della destra italiana, insistendo e dimostrando che è lui il fautore della necessaria rivoluzione liberale. Matteo Renzi sarà obbligato a rispettare la logica dei Sette Colli romani, a tener conto del parere del Presidente Giorgio Napolitano. Tuttavia è perfettamente cosciente che ‘Siamo di fronte a un bivio: vi chiedo, tutti insieme, di uscire dalla palude’. I dissensi interni al Movimento 5 Stelle di Beppe Grillo e l’espulsione di senatori e pare anche di deputati non fa altro che rafforzare la posizione di Matteo Renzi. La sua squadra: otto donne e tanti uomini meno o poco più che quarantenni. Una vera novità nella storia della Repubblica italiana. Solo il tempo ed i fatti concreti ci diranno se si tratta di un taglio epistemologico o la riproposta, sotto spoglie più giovani, del peccato originale e mortale della politica nazionale in Italia: il Trasformismo. Quella di Matteo Renzi è e resta una “maggioranza variabile”: versione attuale delle convergenze parallele e del compromesso storico. È l’anello debole della catena che però si sta rafforzando e potrebbe durare fino al 2018. Negli anni Settanta con il sequestro e l’assassinio di Aldo Moro e con la morte di Enrico Berlinguer non se ne fece niente. Era la scommessa che avrebbe potuto dare una vera svolta all’Italia. Un governo a “maggioranza variabile” è la scommessa che Matteo Renzi si appresta a giocare. Riuscirà con il suo attivismo ad avere risultati concreti per far fronte al populismo del Movimento 5 Stelle di Beppe Grillo che malgrado tutto resta una forza politica importante e al vecchio riproposto come nuovo, ossia Forza Italia 2, del pregiudicato e vecchio Silvio Berlusconi? Una “onesta dissimulazione” in un mondo di relatività etica: ecco la forma mentis del nuovo Premier italiano, Matteo Renzi. Che piaccia o meno. Abituiamoci a vederlo fare, perché vorrà fare e farà molto sia in Italia che in Europa. Speriamo solo che non commetterà troppi errori.


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

OUR COVER Stefanie Terrana is a fitness competitor living in Vaughan, Ontario. Photography by Gregory Varano Makeup by Desi Varano Food products courtesy of Lady York Foods, Toronto

Around The Table By Sarah Mastroianni

The Italian-Canadian Diet

To say that food is important to Italian culture is an understatement. According to Loretta Gatto-White, co-editor of the anthology Italian Canadians At Table: A Narrative Feast in Five Courses, “making and sharing good food is central to our cultural lives.” However, most people would agree that the way Italian-Canadians eat nowadays is not necessarily the same as in the old country. Has something been lost in translation?

A brief look at the mediterranean diet The Mediterranean diet is often represented in pyramid format. At the apex sit sweets and red meat – two things that, according to the diet, you should eat the least amount of. The diet suggests substituting butter for olive oil, eating more fish and poultry, and indulging in mostly whole grains. Ingredients such as fruits, vegetables, beans and lentils are also central to the diet, with water and wine (in moderation) being the encouraged drinks. Filomena Vernace-Inserra, a Registered Dietitian in the GTA, also touts the benefits of the much-talked about Mediterranean Diet. “It’s one of the main types of diets that still has a stronghold with health benefits and has recently been put at the forefront for us to recommend,” she said. Historically, it was a way of eating that, for many Italians, was born out of poverty or necessity and has now become a lifestyle for North Americans to aspire to. “Things were different back then,” says Tony Iannarilli, who immigrated to Canada in the early 1960s and who still keeps a garden, just like he did in Italy. “We didn’t have the food we have now. We didn’t have anything!” Samantha Testolina, a third generation Italian-Canadian financial advisor from Montreal, weighs in on the situation saying, “The Italian-Canadian diet, from my experience, tries to maintain Italian traditions while integrating the convenience of the North American diet.” Eating right in a fast-paced world Vernace-Inserra admits, though, that the pull of convenience and the demands of a busy schedule often have Italian-Canadians reaching for the quickest, not necessarily the healthiest or most authentic Italian meal. As a health professional, she tries to “motivate people to get back to the basics of cooking,” and also to spend more time sitting at the table talking – a regular practice in most Italian families, which has numerous benefits outside of the nutritional value of the food consumed. 18

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The same holds true in Fina Scroppo’s new cookbook, The Healthy Italian. The book’s title may raise some eyebrows, especially within the Italian-Canadian community. Isn’t Italian food always healthy? Many Italian-Canadians would agree, citing the jars of wholesome preserves, sugos and bottles of olive oil that line the shelves of numerous Italian-Canadian cantinas as examples. Iannarilli is confident about the health benefits of his own homemade foods when compared to store-bought products. “It’s 100 percent healthier. There’s no preservatives,” he says. Scroppo is of a similar mind. “At its foundation, Italian cooking is definitely a healthy cuisine […] The problem and issue is that we’ve taken that diet and layered it with stuff that’s not so good for us,” she says. Things like commercialized cheese-laden pizza, cream-based sauces, as well as overcooked pasta and vegetables come to mind. “Al dente seems to have lost its way!” she complains. Not to mention canned spaghetti. Amanda Lombardi, a second-generation Italian-Canadian teacher from Toronto, notices the same problem. “People in North America stereotype. It’s [Italian food] just all meat and cheese, […] but there’s a lot more to it, especially if you go to Italy and see what they eat there. They don’t eat meat and cheese in excess. The excess comes from being here.” Elvio Galasso, professor of the popular Cucina Italiana program at Montreal’s Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec says that even among chefs the push towards health-conscious Italian cooking is on the rise. “The health factor is a very important issue. That’s the way cooking is going towards,” he explains. In his classes, Galasso also says he tries to “make a link with Italy and show how the dishes have been transformed, […] how they’ve been adapted to the products we have locally.” Even that necessity, however, is changing. “Before it was harder to find the ingredients for Italian food. But now, you find everything all over,” says Iannarilli.


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET Not to mention the rise in the number of Italian restaurants, cookbooks and cooking shows in Canada over the past few decades. A healthy lifestyle is more than just eating right Along with the need for a healthy, balanced diet comes the need for exercise – something that is becoming increasingly more difficult to work into our busy schedules. According to Marianna Gagliardi, who has worked as a personal trainer in Toronto, Italian-Canadians are doing a decent job of staying active, usually by taking to the gym to get their exercise. Gagliardi, who has also lived in Rome, notes the difference in the exercise habits between the two countries, citing that Italians are more apt to incorporate physical activity into their daily lives, whether it be a passeggiata after dinner or walking to work in the morning. “It was rare to see Italians jogging or riding their bikes in the centre of Rome,” she notes, “as opposed to Montreal and Toronto where Canadians brave the cold weather and traffic conditions in order to exercise.” The future of Italian food within the Italian-Canadian community “Food has always played a central role in my family […] Ultimately, eating is what we do best and we’re definitely proud to show it,” Testolina says. “What I think is unfortunate,” she adds, “is that many of the younger Italian generations have no interest in continuing certain traditions, for example, making homemade sausage and cheese.” Lombardi’s experience growing up in Toronto was similar. “It was always an important thing to have dinner together […] I inherited this desire to feed people,” she laughs. But when it comes to carrying on the traditions of sauce making and preserving, Lombardi is unsure if she’ll continue. “As much as we’d like to do that stuff all the time, I don’t know that it’s plausible.” Although some may be worried about the future of Italian-Canadian food traditions, Gatto-White remains positive. “Food will always be important in maintaining and creating familial and social bonds for Italian-Canadians; I don’t think that will change. It’s in our DNA!”

Intorno alla tavola La dieta italo-canadese Sarah Mastroianni

Affermare che il cibo sia importante nella cultura italiana è un eufemismo. Secondo Loretta Gatto-White, coautrice dell’antologia Italian Canadians At Table: A Narrative Feast in Five Courses: “preparare e condividere il cibo è fondamentale per le nostre vite culturali”. Senza dubbio la nostra cultura s’incentra sulla tavola. La maggior parte delle persone, tuttavia, sarebbe d’accordo nell’affermare che ciò che mangiano gli italo-canadesi oggi non corrisponde necessariamente a quanto avviene nel vecchio continente. Qualcosa si è perso per strada? La dieta mediterranea A seguito delle abitudini alimentari e degli ingredienti usati nei paesi prospicienti il mar Mediterraneo, la dieta mediterranea viene spesso rappresentata con una piramide. All’apice si trovano dolci e carni rosse – due elementi che secondo la dieta, si dovrebbero consumare in piccole quantità. La dieta suggerisce di sostituire l’olio d’oliva al burro, di mangiare più pesce e carni bianche, e concedersi prevalentemente prodotti integrali. Alimenti quali frutta, verdura, fagioli e lenticchie sono inoltre essenziali nella dieta, con acqua e vino (bevuto con moderazione) suggeriti quali bevande. Anche Filomena Vernace-Inserra, nutrizionista specializzata della GTA, promuove i benefici della tanto discussa dieta mediterranea. “È una tra le principali diete ad essere

ancora un caposaldo per i benefici sulla salute ed è stata recentemente messa in prima linea tra le cose da raccomandare”, dice. Era, per molti italiani, un modo di nutrirsi nato dalla povertà o dal bisogno; ora è diventato stile di vita al quale molti nordamericani dovrebbero ambire. “Le cose erano diverse all’epoca”, afferma Tony Iannarilli, emigrato in Canada all’inizio degli anni ’60 e che, ancora oggi, coltiva il suo orto come faceva in Italia. “Non avevamo il cibo che abbiamo oggi. Non avevamo niente!” Samantha Testolina, italo-canadese di terza generazione e consulente finanziario di Montréal, interviene sull’argomento sostenendo: “La dieta italo-canadese, per esperienza personale, cerca di mantenere le tradizioni italiane integrando le comodità della dieta nordamericana.” Mangiare bene in un mondo che va di fretta Vernace-Inserra ammette tuttavia che l’attrazione verso la comodità e gli orari pressanti vedono spesso gli italo-canadesi optare per un più rapido, non necessariamente più sano e verace, pasto all’italiana. In qualità di specialista della salute, cerca di “spronare le persone al ritorno a una cucina di base”, ed anche a trascorrere più tempo seduti a tavola a chacchierare – una pratica abituale in molte famiglie italiane che offre numerosi benefici, al di là del valore nutrizionale del cibo consumato. Lo stesso vale per Fina Scroppo nel suo nuovo libro di cucina The Healthy Italian. Il titolo del suo libro, tuttavia, potrebbe far alzare qualche sopracciglio soprattutto all’interno della comunità italo-canadese. Non sempre il cibo italiano è salutare? Molti italo-canadesi concorderebbero nel citare quali esempi i barattoli di conserve genuine, di sugo e le bottiglie di olio d’oliva allineate sugli scaffali di molte cantine italo-canadesi. Iannarilli si fida delle qualità benefiche dei suoi alimenti fatti in casa se paragonati ai prodotti acquistati in negozio. “Sono al 100% più sani. Non ci sono conservanti,” ha dice. Di opinione simile è Scroppo. “Di base, la cucina italiana è sicuramente una cucina sana […] Il problema e il punto è che abbiamo preso quella dieta e l’abbiamo diversificata con ingredienti che non ci fanno bene,” afferma. Mi vengono in mente cose come la pizza in commercio ad alto contenuto di formaggio, le salsette a base di panna, così come la pasta e le verdure scotte. Sembra che il concetto di “al dente” si sia perso per strada!” reclama. Per non parlare degli spaghetti in scatola. Amanda Lombardi, italo-canadese di seconda generazione e insegnante di Toronto, nota lo stesso problema. “La gente in nordamerica tende a stereotipare. È solo [il cibo italiano] carne e pesce, […] ma c’è molto di più, soprattutto se vai in Italia e vedi cosa mangiano lì. Non consumano carne e formaggio in eccesso. L’eccesso nasce dall’essere qui.” Elvio Galasso, professore del famoso programma di Cucina Italiana presso l’Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec di Montreal, afferma che anche tra gli chef è in crescita la tendenza verso una cucina italiana più consapevole. “Il fattore salute è una questione molto importante. È quella la direzione verso la quale la cucina si sta dirigendo,” spiega. Nelle sue lezioni, aggiunge Galasso, prova sempre a “creare una connessione con l’Italia per mostrare come i piatti si trasformino, […] come si adattino ai nostri prodotti locali.” Anche questa esigenza, tuttavia, sta cambiando. “Prima era più difficile trovare gli ingredienti per piatti italiani. Adesso invece, si trova tutto ovunque”, dice Iannarilli. Per non parlare dell’aumento del numero dei ristoranti italiani, libri e programmi di cucina in Canada negli ultimi decenni. Una dieta sana va al di là del mangiare bene Assieme al bisogno di una dieta più sana ed equilibrata, c’è quello dell’attività fisica –cosa sempre più difficile da inserire nei nostri calendari fitti d’impegni. Secondo Marianna Gagliardi, che lavora come personal trainer a Toronto, gli italocanadesi stanno facendo un buon lavoro nel cercare di rimanere attivi, di solito andando in palestra per allenarsi. Gagliardi, che ha anche vissuto a Roma, sottolinea la differenza nelle abitudini sportive tra i due paesi, facendo riferimento al fatto che gli italiani sono più propensi a integrare l’attività fisica nella vita quotidiana, che sia passeggiando dopo cena o camminando per andare al lavoro al mattino. “Era piuttosto raro vedere italiani fare jogging o andare in bicicletta al mattino nel centro di Roma,” sottolinea, “di contro a Montreal e Toronto dove i canadesi sfidano freddo e traffico per poter fare moto.” Il futuro della cucina italiana all’interno della comunità italo-canadese “Il cibo ha sempre giocato un ruolo importante nella mia famiglia […]In sostanza, mangiare è ciò che facciamo meglio e ciò che siamo decisamente fieri di mostrare,” dice Testolina. “ Ciò che mi sembra un peccato”, aggiunge, “è che molti giovani delle nuove generazioni di italiani non abbiano alcun interesse a portare avanti certe tradizioni facendo, per esempio, la salsiccia e il formaggio in casa”. L’esperienza di Lombardi nel crescere a Toronto è stata simile. “Era sempre importante cenare assieme […] Ho ereditato il desiderio di sfamare le persone,” sorride. Ma quando si tratta di portare avanti la tradizione di fare e conservare la salsa, Lombardi non è sicura di continuare a farlo. “Per quanto ci piacerebbe dedicarci a quelle cose tutto il tempo, non sono certa sia fattibile.” Sebbene alcuni siano preoccupati per il futuro delle tradizioni culinarie italocanadesi, Gatto-White si dice ottimista. “Per gli italo-canadesi, il cibo sarà sempre importante per mantenere e creare legami sociali e familiari; non credo ciò cambierà. È nel nostro DNA!” (Traduzione Claudia Prestigiacomo) PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

Autour de la table La diète italo-canadienne Par Sarah Mastroianni

Dire que la nourriture occupe une place importante dans la culture italienne est un euphémisme. Selon Loretta GattoWhite, co-éditrice du recueil Italian Canadians At Table : A Narrative Feast in Five Course, la culture italienne orbite autour de la table. Plusieurs admettrons, toutefois, que la façon de manger des Italo-Canadiens ne coïncide plus exactement à ce que l’on rencontre dans le Vieux Continent. Avons-nous perdu quelque chose en chemin ? Bref coup d’oeil sur la diète méditerranéenne Basée sur le style d’alimentation et le type d’ingrédients utilisés dans les pays du bassin méditerranéen, la diète méditerranéenne est souvent représenté sous forme de pyramide. Au sommet siègent les sucreries et la viande rouge, deux catégories d’ingrédients qui selon la dite diète devraient être consommés avec modération. Elle suggère de substituer l’huile d’olive au beurre, de manger davantage de poisson et de volaille et de se rabattre sur des produits à base de grains entiers. Les fruits et légumes ainsi que les légumineuses y occupent aussi une place de choix, accompagnés d’une consommation modérée de vin et d’eau en abondance. Filomena Vernace-Inserra, une nutritionniste professionnelle de Toronto, promeut avec enthousiasme les bénéfices de la fameuse diète. « C’est l’une des principales diètes qu’on n’hésite pas à recommander », affirme-t-elle. Historiquement pour les Italiens, elle évoque un mode d’alimentation créé par la nécessité et la pauvreté, mais qui aujourd’hui s’affiche comme un mode de vie à adopter pour plusieurs Nord-Américains. « Les choses étaient bien différentes à l’époque », explique Tony Iannarilli, qui a immigré au Canada au début des années 1960s et qui continue de cultiver son potager tout comme il avait l’habitude de le faire en Italie. « Nous n’avions pas autant de nourriture qu’aujourd’hui. Nous n’avions pratiquement rien ! » Pour Samantha Testolina, une jeune conseillère financière italo-canadienne de troisième génération de Montréal, « la diète italo-canadienne cherche à conserver les traditions italiennes tout en les intégrant aux avantages de la diète nord-américaine ». Bien manger dans le monde rapide actuel Vernace-Inserra admet toutefois que l’attrait de la commodité et la pression qu’exercent nos horaires chargés poussent souvent les Italo-Canadiens à opter pour la solution la plus rapide au détriment d’un repas authentiquement italien, souvent plus santé. Comme professionnelle de la santé, Vernace-Inserra tente de « motiver les gens à revenir aux sources en cuisine, » mais aussi à passer plus de temps autour de la table à discuter, une pratique commune dans bien des familles italiennes et dont la portée dépasse de loin les simples valeurs nutritionnelles. Même son de cloche dans le récent livre de cuisine The Healthy Italian, de l’auteure Fina Scroppo dont le titre pourrait en faire sourciller plus d’un, spécialement au sein de la communauté italo-canadienne. La nourriture italienne n’est-elle pas santé de facto ? Il en va évidemment de soi pour plusieurs Italo-Canadiens qui font leurs propres conserves et sauce tomates et dont la chambre froide est remplie de flacons d’huile d’olive. Iannarilli se dit convaincu de la supériorité de ses produits sur la santé face aux produits transformés rencontrés au supermarché. « Ils sont 100% plus santé. Ils ne contiennent aucun agent de conservation », affirme-t-il. Scroppo abonde dans le même sens. « À la base, la cuisine italienne est définitivement une cuisine santé. […] Le problème provient de la transformation de cette diète qu’on accompagne bien souvent d’ingrédients beaucoup moins bons pour la santé », explique-t-elle. On peut penser à des mets comme la pizza commerciale garnie de fromage, des sauces à base de crème ou des pâtes et des légumes trop cuits. « La cuisson al dente semble s’être évanouie complètement ! » se plaint-t-elle. C’est sans mentionner le spaghetti en conserve…

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Amanda Lombardi, une professeure italo-canadienne de seconde génération de Toronto, considère le problème comme suit, « Les Nord-Américains généralisent. Selon eux, la cuisine italienne se limite à de la viande et du fromage, […] mais c’est bien plus que ça. En Italie, on ne mange pas de viande ou de fromage à l’excès. L’excès découle du fait de vivre ici. » Elvio Galasso, professeur du populaire programme de Cucina Italiana à l’Institut de tourisme et d’hôtellerie du Québec, révèle que même les chefs proposent de plus en plus une cuisine italienne plus saine. « Le facteur santé est très important. C’est la tendance en cuisine actuellement. » Dans ses cours, Galasso démontre aussi « comment les plats ont évolué ici comparativement à l’Italie […] et comment on les a adapté aux produits locaux. » Or, même cette nécessité se transforme. « Avant, il était bien plus difficile de trouver des ingrédients typiquement italiens. Mais aujourd’hui, ils sont accessibles presque partout », précise Iannarilli. Sans compter le nombre croissant de restaurants italiens, de livres de cuisines et d’émissions de cuisine au Canada ces dernières années. Une saine diète va au-delà de bien manger Couplée aux besoins d’une diète saine et équilibrée s’accompagne toutefois l’obligation de faire de l’exercice, un luxe qui aujourd’hui semble de plus en plus difficile à conjuguer avec nos horaires chargés. Selon Marianna Gagliardi, une ancienne entraineuse personnelle de Toronto, les Italo-Canadiens demeurent relativement actifs et s’entrainent souvent au gymnase. Gagliardi qui a aussi vécu à Rome, note des différences dans les habitudes physiques de chaque pays, précisant que les Italiens sont plus enclins à intégrer l’activité physique dans leur routine quotidienne, qu’il s’agisse de la passegiata après le diner ou de marcher au boulot le matin. « Il est rare de voir des Italiens faire du jogging ou rouler à vélo au cœur de Rome, contrairement à Montréal et Toronto où les Canadiens bravent le froid et le trafic pour faire de l’exercice », remarque-t-elle. Le futur de la cuisine italienne au sein de la communauté italocanadienne « La nourriture a toujours occupé une place centrale dans ma famille […] Finalement, manger est ce qu’on fait de mieux et nous en sommes évidemment très fiers », assure Testolina. « Ce qui me chagrine, c’est que beaucoup de jeunes Italo-Canadiens ne manifestent aucun intérêt à poursuivre certaines traditions comme faire son vin, ses saucisses ou son fromage maison. » Le même scénario se produit aussi à Toronto selon Lombardi. « Ça a toujours été important de manger ensemble […] J’ai hérité de ce désir de nourrir les gens », dit-elle en s’esclaffant. Mais, en ce qui concerne maintenir ou non certaines traditions comme faire sa sauce et ses conserves, Lombardi s’avoue incertaine. « Autant j’y tiens, autant ça m’apparait peu plausible. » Bien que certains s’avèrent anxieux quant au futur des traditions culinaires italocanadiennes, Gatto-White demeure positive. « La nourriture occupera toujours une place importante dans le maintien des liens sociaux et familiaux chez les ItaloCanadiens. Je ne pense pas que ça change. C’est inscrit dans notre ADN! » (Traduction G.R.S.)


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

The Italian Paradox Myths and reality about the Italian diet Learning to eat like an Italian, in the healthy, Mediterranean style, is big business. Amazon.com offers 5,198 books about the Mediterranean diet. 118 of those books focus on Italian cooking and nearly all have a picture of olive oil on the cover. By Laura D’Amelio

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Mediterranean Diet Pyramid

Wine in moderarion s = servings

Guidelines for adult population

Potatoes 3s

Red meat 2s Processed meat 1s

White meat 2s Fish / Seafood 2s

Eggs 2-4s Vegetables 2s

Dairy (preferably low fat)

Herbs / Spices / Garlic (less added salt)

Olives / Nuts / Seeds 1-2s

Fruits 1-2s Vegetables 2s Variety of textures (cooked / raw)

Olive oil / Breads Pasta / Rice / Other cereals 1-2s (whole grain)

Weekly

Sweets 2s

Every day

It’s

work out of the home. Dinner is usually cooked at home and eaten sitting down with the family.” As for those large, long dinners: “Italians eat more courses, therefore more variety, but the portions are much smaller,” says Grant. “I think Italians walk a lot more too. Most cities here have pedestrian only areas where cars are banned and the country is, in general, mountainous. You are always climbing here.” Populations that follow the Mediterranean diet pattern also show the highest longevity. In fact, one of the world’s “hot spots” for longevity is Sardinia, Italy. Investigations into this area’s concentration of centenarians (those who live to 100 or older) have found less circulatory diseases there than in the rest of the country. In a popular news article from 2012, a set of nine Sardinian siblings between the ages of 78 and 105 credited their long lives to minestrone soup, vegetables, very little meat and a dedicated work ethic. The problem is, whether in Canada or Italy, while the older generations have maintained the Mediterranean habits of their youth, younger Italians tend to give up the traditional diet and lifestyle in favour of more convenient foods. “Things [in Italy] are changing too,” says Grant. “And faster than you’d like to think. Fast food chains are sneaking in. Supermarkets are carrying more ready-made and prepared foods. Fewer people are growing their own and ready-made frozen or fresh prepared meals are becoming more popular.” The impetus to live healthier and longer should be enough to encourage the traditional Italian diet, but the benefits may go even further than that. A Concordia University study of Italian-Canadians suggests that ethnic identity is positively related to the consumption of traditional foods. Want to get healthy, live longer and feel close to your roots? Don’t buy a book about the Mediterranean diet. Instead, start cutting up some melanzane and invite your family over for a leisurely dinner.

Every Main Meal

easy to see why there is such a demand for insight into what and how Italians eat: study after study shows Italians are healthier and live longer. Though Italians smoke more than other Europeans and spend less on healthcare, they have healthier weights and less diseases. And Italy is one of the top 10 countries in the world with the longest human longevity. But go to an Italian chain restaurant in North America and you’ll be served heaping amounts of pasta coated with cheese, a far cry from what is considered “healthy.” Movie and TV images of traditional Italian Sunday meals suggest big portions of meat, a lot of wine and opulent desserts are the norm. How do pizza and pasta translate into a healthy diet? “That’s not representative of Italian meals,” says Susan McKenna Grant, author of Piano, Piano, Pieno: Authentic Food from a Tuscan Farm and owner/chef of La Petraia restaurant in Sienna. “[Italians eat] less junk food, less soda, less sugar, do more natural exercise like walking and have a better understanding of what good food is,” she says. She also confirms that olive oil is one of the best foods Italians consume. Fresh vegetables, and plenty of them, are the stars of meals, not just pasta. A 1995 study of the Mediterranean diet “Italian Style” confirmed that Italians preferred a plant-based, low-fat, high-carbohydrate diet. This means a high intake of vegetables, beans, fruit and cereals; medium-to-high intake of fish and unsaturated fats (that’s where the olive oil comes in); and low intake of meats, saturated fats and dairy products. The study also tracked the physiological effects of this food and found the benefits abound. For example, tomatoes, broccoli, wine, unprocessed olive oil, garlic and certain spices offer antioxidant effects. The high intake of plant-based meals also provided protective roles for health. Spanish research published in Food Chemistry magazine found that tomato sauce – the olive oil, tomatoes and garlic cooked together particularly – is loaded with compounds that have been linked to the reduction of tumours and cardiovascular diseases. Other analyses have linked the Mediterranean diet with a reduced risk of heart disease as well. In 2013, researchers went even further to test out particular “Mediterranean” foods. A five-year study of more than 7,000 people found that those given either one litre of extra virgin olive oil, or 200 g of walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds every week had a significantly reduced risk of stroke and heart disease, compared to a group on a low-fat diet. That doesn’t mean there can’t be too much of a good thing. Meals high in carbohydrates (remember that big plate of pasta at the restaurant?), put you at risk of diabetes as bread, pasta and starches break down into sugar once consumed. Studies have shown that eating 160 g per day of processed meats, like sausage or cured meats, in conjunction with other such habits, leads to an increased risk of premature death. “Obesity, gluten intolerance and celiac disease are big topics [in Italy] and rates are rising,” says Grant. But it’s not just the foods Italians eat, it’s how they eat them. Italians take more time to eat, and eat with others, rather than eating on the go like North Americans. “[Italians] don’t snack as much and sit down together to more home-cooked meals,” says Grant. “[They have a] small breakfast often standing up in the local bar – coffee and cornetti. Today lunch is just a sandwich as people don’t get home as much as they used to for lunch and more women

Water and herbal infusion

Regular physical activity

Biodiversity / Ecofriendly products / Culinary activities


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

To Your Health: Italian cuisine! La cuisine italienne à votre santé ! By Julie Aubé

10 of the most nutritious ingredients from la cucina del bel paese 10 ingrédients sains de la cuisine italienne Delicious and easy to prepare, Italian cuisine draws its splendor from a range of ingredients that come together to form a rich and varied diet. As one might expect, such nutritious virtues have brought it legions of fans. Its success is also attributed to the Italian custom of enjoying meals in the company of friends and family.

Savoureuse et rapide à préparer, la cuisine italienne puise son inspiration dans une foule d’ingrédients à la base d’une diète riche et diversifiée. Zoom sur les atouts de cette cuisine équilibrée et variée qui regorge d’ingrédients et d’aliments à la fois sains et délicieux !

Tomatoes and tomato sauce It goes without saying that the quintessential ingredient in Italian cuisine, from north to south, is the tomato. Common in pasta dishes, it is also found in pizza, eggplant parmigiana and polpette, to name a few. Like all vegetables, the tomato is rich in nutrients and low in calories. Moreover, it contains lycopene, an antioxidant that – along with several other nutrients found in tomatoes – may help reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Once cooked (in a tomato sauce, for instance), the tomato’s lycopene becomes more readily absorbed by the body.

La tomate et la sauce tomate Si un ingrédient fait partie intégrante de la cuisine italienne du nord au sud, c’est bien sûr la tomate. Incontournable avec les pâtes, elle se marie aussi à merveille avec la pizza, les aubergines parmigiana, les polpette et plus encore! Comme tous les légumes, la tomate est riche en éléments nutritifs variés et pauvre en calories. De plus, elle renferme du lycopène, un antioxydant qui, combiné aux autres éléments nutritifs de la tomate, pourrait jouer un rôle protecteur entre autres contre le cancer de la prostate. Une fois cuit (comme dans une sauce tomate), le lycopène de la tomate devient encore plus disponible pour le corps.

Rapini, spinach, arugula, artichokes and other greens Italian cooking uses whichever greens are in season to produce a range of specialties that alternately share the title of most popular contorni (side dishes). Rich in vitamins, antioxidants and polyphenols, it is no wonder that Canada's Food Guide recommends eating at least one green vegetable every day!

Les rapinis, les épinards, la roquette, les artichauts et autres légumes verts La cuisine italienne regorge de légumes verts qui, selon les saisons, les arrivages ou les spécialités, se partagent la vedette au rang des contorni (accompagnements) les plus populaires. Riches en vitamines, en composés antioxydants et en polyphénols, ce n’est pas un hasard si le Guide alimentaire canadien recommande de manger au moins un légume vert chaque jour !

Extra virgin olive oil Olive oil, especially its extra virgin sub-type, is the queen of Italian cuisine. Its many incarnations delight gourmet palates in various ways with its rich flavours and wide range of aromas, at times fruity, at times spicy, depending on its origins and producers. Olive oils contain large quantities of monounsaturated fatty acids, which are known to lower cholesterol and contribute to a healthy heart.

L’huile d’olive extra-vierge Reine de la cuisine italienne, l’huile d’olive dans sa version extravierge ravit les gourmets avec sa saveur riche et ses caractéristiques plus ou moins fruitée, végétale ou piquante selon les terroirs et les producteurs. L’huile d’olive se compose d’une bonne proportion d’acides gras mono-insaturés qui favorisent la réduction du cholestérol avec des effets bénéfiques sur la santé du cœur.

Extra Virgin

Legumes Though legumes may not seem particularly important to Italian cuisine, this class of vegetable is no less ubiquitous in the culinary tradition. Classic dishes like minestrone soup, pasta e fagioli and pasta e ceci or ribollita fiorentina incorporate them in abundance. Moreover, legumes stand out for their nutritional value, their high protein content and their generous amounts of dietary fibre, vitamins and minerals.

Les légumineuses Si cuisine italienne ne rime pas de prime abord avec légumineuses, cette famille d’ingrédients n’en est pas moins exempte. On a qu’à penser aux grands classiques que sont le minestrone, les pasta e fagioli, les pasta e ceci ou la ribollita fiorentina pour s’en convaincre. Les légumineuses sont intéressantes pour leur apport en protéines d’origine végétale, leur richesse en fibres alimentaires, ainsi que leur apport en vitamines et minéraux différents.

Fine Herbs Herbs, whether fresh or dried, are flavour enhancers that often make it possible to reduce the amount of salt used in recipes. Basil, a cornerstone of Genovese pesto, is another key ingredient in nearly any tomato sauce. Oregano, which is commonly found in pizza, among other dishes, is also ubiquitous in Italian cuisine, as is parsley, which is commonly used as a garnish on many dishes such as gremolata. Sage, another mainstay, is prominent in saltimbocca, and rosemary is often added to grilled meats to add a complementary aroma.

Les fines herbes Les fines herbes, fraîches ou séchées, sont des rehausseurs de saveurs qui permettent bien souvent de réduire le sel dans les recettes. Le basilic, grande vedette du pesto genovese, est également l’ingrédient clé de toute sauce tomate réussie. L’origan est lui aussi bien présent dans la cuisine italienne, entre autres sur la pizza, tout comme l’est le persil dans la finition de nombreux plats tel la gremolata. La sauge quant à elle agrémente à merveille les saltimboca et le romarin parfume magnifiquement les grillades.

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Fish and seafood Often found in soups, in risotto, in pasta sauces, or as a main dish, fish and seafood are particularly favoured in Italy. Many are low in fats and high in proteins, while others (such as sardines, salmon, anchovies and mackerel) have higher fat contents. The fattier fish are no less nutritious. As is increasingly acknowledged, omega-3 fatty acids and other fish oils have extremely beneficial effects on the heart and brain.

Les poissons et fruits de mer Apprêtés en soupes, en risotto, en grillades ou en sauces pour garnir les pâtes, les poissons et les fruits de mer sont couramment à l’honneur en Italie. Leur chair étant souvent maigre, ils constituent des sources de protéines intéressantes. Et lorsque ceux-ci sont plus gras (comme la sardine, le saumon, les anchois ou le maquereau), ils fournissent des oméga-3 bénéfiques entre autres pour le cœur et le cerveau.

Garlic Garlic plays a central role in Italian cuisine. Along with basil and tomato, it constitutes the basis of any good tomato sauce. As is the case with herbs, garlic is helpful in moderating the use of salt in many dishes. Garlic also contains generous amounts of phytochemicals (allicin, allium), which are considered to help prevent certain types of cancer.

L’ail L’ail occupe une place de choix dans la cuisine italienne. Avec le basilic et la tomate, il compose le trio de base de la sauce tomate. Tout aussi savoureux que les fines herbes, l’ail permet de saler les plats avec modération. Il renferme de plus des composés phytochimiques (allicine, allium) qui auraient des effets bénéfiques pour la prévention de certains types de cancers.

Citrus Besides the famous limoncello (a lemon-flavoured digestif) and various pastries to which are added citrus zest, Italians also love fresh oranges and tangerines. Grown in the sunshine and overflowing with vitamin C, citrus fruits abound on the shelves of Italian markets and are always delicious at breakfast, as a snack or for dessert. They can also be incorporated into delicious salads along with other good things like fennel, black olives, arugula and a drizzle of oil.

Les agrumes Outre le célèbre limoncello (digestif au citron) et les nombreuses pâtisseries parfumées au zeste d’agrumes, les oranges et mandarines fraîches abondent sur les étals des marchés italiens. Elles regorgent de soleil et de vitamine C et sont délicieuses à savourer avec le petit déjeuner, en collation ou au dessert. On peut les intégrer à différentes salades, par exemple avec du fenouil, des olives noires, de la roquette et un filet d’huile.

Artisanal additive-free deli meats The most harmful consequences of industrially processed meats may not come from their high fat content, but rather their chemical additives, which include nitrates, as well as texturing and conservation agents, and artificial flavouring. Italian deli meats are generally free of such preservatives, thanks to the more traditional methods of production used for drying and/or curing. These natural methods also give Italian cured meats more distinctive flavours and a bit of personality.

Les charcuteries artisanales et sans additif L’élément le plus nocif des charcuteries commerciales industrielles ne réside pas tant dans leur apport en gras que dans leur lot d’additifs chimiques : nitrites, agents de textures et de conservation, saveurs artificielles, etc. Les meilleures charcuteries italiennes évitent généralement l’ajout de tous ces agents de conservations grâce à des méthodes de fabrication et de conservation artisanales basées sur le séchage et/ou le salage. Une méthode plus naturelle qui offre beaucoup plus de personnalité.

Wine Commonly consumed during meals, red wine is considered a food in its own right in Italy. As long as it is consumed in moderation (1-2 glasses of 150 ml per day for women and 2-3 for men), red wine is believed to contribute to a healthy diet. In addition to being delicious and soothing, wine is also packed with antioxidants from the resveratrol family, which have been praised for their beneficial effects for the heart.

Le vin Souvent présent lors des repas, le vin est considéré comme un aliment à part entière dans l’alimentation italienne. Lorsque consommé avec modération (soit 1-2 verres de 150 ml par jour pour les femmes et 23 pour les hommes), le vin figure parmi les « aliments gagnants » pour la santé. Non seulement délicieux et apaisant, le vin contient des antioxydants de la famille des resvératrols bénéfiques pour le cœur.

Home cooking VS processed food Home cooking using basic ingredients remains at the core of the healthy eating habits associated with Italian cuisine. At the outset, the ability to carefully select the ingredients ensures higher quality meals. In addition to being often very high in sodium and containing shortenings, processed meals also tend to lack protein and vegetables. Finally, industrially processed foods, like frozen pizza or ready-made pasta dishes require uniform appearance and standardized taste. To obtain these results, food processors use copious amounts of additives to standardize taste and texture, and prolong shelf life. While our busy schedules may make consuming TV-dinners necessary from time to time, taking the extra time and effort to cook a meal at home not only tastes better, but also is often healthier! (Translation Anders Jensen) 26

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Cuisine maison VS aliments transformés Cuisiner maison à partir d’ingrédients de base fait partie des saines habitudes alimentaires ancrées dans la cuisine italienne. Cela permet de choisir avec soin la qualité des ingrédients qui composent nos repas. En plus d’être souvent très en riches sodium et en matière grasse (shortenings), il n’est pas rare que les repas surgelés préparés manquent de protéines ou de légumes. Enfin, les repas industriels comme les pizzas toutes faites ou les barquettes de pâtes surgelées doivent avoir une apparence identique et goûter la même chose d’une fois à l’autre. L’industrie utilise donc des additifs pour uniformiser les goûts et les textures et pour garantir la durée de vie des produits. Bien que nos horaires chargés nous poussent à consommer à l’occasion des plats tout-faits, prendre le temps et faire l’effort de cuisiner ses repas à la maison c’est non seulement souvent meilleur au goût, mais c’est bien souvent plus naturel et plus sain !


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET Unidentified Customs Officer with family, 1963. Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 (DI2013.1362.4).

Food Culture Shock Italian immigrants recall their first – and unmemorable – edible experiences upon moving to Canada By Vanessa Santilli

Along with adjusting to a new language and frigid temperatures, Italian newcomers to Canada also had to deal with a radically different cuisine. From sliced bread to extra sugary sweets, the sapore of Canadian food just wasn’t the same as back home for Italians who arrived in the land of opportunity. uring the Pier 21 years, 471,940 Italians came to Canada, making them the third largest ethnic group to immigrate between 1928 and 1971. Franca Della Rossa was among the large wave of Italian immigratings to Canada post-World War II. She still vividly remembers her first experience eating Canadian food at a public venue. “We went to shop (at Eaton’s) for my wedding dress…and my uncle suggested we visit the buffet,” recalls Della Rossa, who immigrated to Canada in 1960. “The fragrance in the air was excellent, but as soon as I tried it, it had no flavour whatsoever.” And as a result of her less-than-positive experience eating at Eaton’s, Della Rossa and her family didn’t eat out for many years. “When my daughter turned 20, she said, ‘I don’t want any presents. As a present, I would like the whole family to go out and eat.’ By this time it was the early ’80s. Things had improved.” Still, Della Rossa always considered herself one of the lucky ones. “I lived with my mother-in-law who was a great cook so I didn't have to suffer that long.” But of all the meals, she found lunchtime to be the biggest challenge. “I was accustomed to soup or something warm at noon and sliced bread didn’t do a thing for me… It was not satisfying for me. But it was convenient, I suppose.” “In order to understand the reaction, it’s important to understand what Italians were used to back home,” says Joyce Pillarella, an oral historian based in Montreal. “When many of the immigrants arrived, the white bread they were given really had a negative effect on them, mostly because it was a really sharp contrast to what they were accustomed to, she says. Bread had always sustained them as it was wholesome,” she explains. “It got them through a war. It got them through difficult times and so it was something they looked towards with confidence that it would get them through their day. Sliced bread made a big impression on them as they didn't see any nutritional value in it,” she adds. Fiorina Bomben, who came to Canada in the early ’50s can also attest to being less than impressed with sliced bread. “My eldest daughter used to ask for ‘la torta,’” she says, a reference to the bread’s sweetness. On a day-to-day basis, Bomben recalls not having many options

D

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when making her packed lunches for work. “My boss used to say to me, ‘Bologna again, Fiorina?’ I used to like bologna for lunch or Polish sausage.” Soon enough, this feeling towards bread would create a new slang word. It’s commonly believed that the term “mangiacake” evolved from the sentiment that Canadian bread is sweet as cake, compared to the taste of Italian bread. “In fact, stories about the sweet white bread that the children refused to eat had made their way back to Italy and Italian immigrants were coming prepared,” writes researcher Carrie-Ann Smith on the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21's website. And these immigrants often came prepared with food from their homeland. “Newcomers often went to enormous efforts to conceal their food products from Canadian customs officials for fear of losing their beloved sausages, nuts, bread and other cherished food items,” writes researcher Jan Raska on the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21’s website. But this did not sit well with customs officials. “This middle ground often led to interesting exchanges between Canadian ‘gatekeepers’ – those entrusted to safeguard Canadian society and economy, including customs officers – and new arrivals from across the globe,” writes Raska. But as more and more Italian immigrants settled into their new life in Canada, Italian services sprung up to cater to this growing community. Bomben was happy to discover an Italian grocery store on College Street, as the items they were used to buying back home were not readily available at Canadian supermarkets. “They had olive oil from Italy,” she says. “They had everything.” When shopping at Canadian supermarkets, however, Bomben was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the meat, fruit and vegetables. And as the Italian community grew, Italians also brought their food traditions with them, something that continues on to this day with well-stocked cantinas showcasing homemade sausages, wine and preserves. With a wide variety of bakeries and supermarkets stocking top quality Italian products – and Italian restaurants galore – Italians immigrants have not only managed to preserve their culinary traditions but successfully integrated them into mainstream Canadian cuisine and eating habits.


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Italians’ Changing Appetite

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Italian food has gained popularity worldwide in recent decades, as the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet have become better understood. In Canada, many Italian immigrants have long strived to hold on to their homeland’s traditions, while on the other hand younger generations of Italian-Canadians tend to be losing their parents’ culinary habits. Meanwhile, in Italy itself, the impacts of globalization and the recent economic crisis on eating habits are resulting in growing waistlines and health problems to match, as more and more people are adopting an unhealthy “North American” lifestyle. Is the Italian Diet really in danger? ood’s not the only way to be Italian-Canadian, but it’s a good start,” says Pal Di Iulio, president and CEO of the Columbus Centre and Villa Charities, a group of charities in Toronto that promotes Italian culture. Although Di Iulio came to Canada from Italy in 1956, he says his family still eats a fresh, balanced, “Mediterranean” diet today. “It’s not difficult because my wife, and to some degree myself, have made it a priority.” Yet, this priority seems to have become less and less important for a growing number of people back in the old country. The Organization for Economic CoOperation and Development (OECD) estimates that overall, about 40 per cent of Italian adults are overweight or obese and it predicts that figure will jump to 45 per cent by 2020. A 2011 study indicated that 36 per cent of Italian children eight years and under were overweight or obese. Rather than seeing unhealthy eating as an adopted North American trend, Pasquale Bova, Italy’s trade commissioner for Canada, attributes it to the global agricultural and food industry’s use of “shortcuts” to improve profits rather than health. “The use of sugar, salt and corn syrup has increased drastically.” Pressed for time and money, Italians, especially young people, opt for processed fast-food options instead of making meals from scratch. He also blames advertising for increasing the appeal of relatively exotic fast food to lower-income and less-educated groups in Italy that are more likely to suffer weight-related health problems. “It’s complicated to cook vegetables. People don’t want to take the time,” says Bova. “However, with more consumers demanding healthy options, the food industry has responded. The resulting economy of scale could help bring down the price of good food so that it is affordable for more Italians,” he adds. Furthermore, the European Union has instituted a healthy eating program in European schools, and the Italian government has enacted their own healthy eating program. Bova says these initiatives are well intentioned, but will not prove effective if they do not extend to adults as well. These changing eating habits have even affected the domestic sale of wine, and traditional food products have suffered, especially during Europe’s recent financial cri-

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sis. But Italian companies have found new markets abroad. “One of the major marketing tools for us was the approval of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) nutrition pyramid (…) which was very close already to the Mediterranean diet,” says Bova, who recalls that when he was first posted to New York in 1985, he couldn’t buy real prosciutto anywhere in the city. Nowadays, he says products like prosciutto, dried tomatoes and pesto are widely available, and many smaller and medium-sized exporters have joined the larger Italian companies that first sold internationally. Ironically, while Italian food products are now more accessible, culinary traditions have faded among young Italian-Canadians. Danielle Nurisso, 32, recalls her paternal grandfather making wine and curing meat, while her grandmother made fresh pasta and loved cooking and baking. But Nurisso says she never had the chance to pick up those traditions because her grandparents did not pass them down to her father and aunt. Although some of Nurisso’s cousins have kept stronger ties to their Italian heritage and grow their own fruits and vegetables today, Nurisso says, “I just don’t have the know-how.” Now that these traditions are quickly losing ground across the pond too, Bova concedes that globalization has encouraged unhealthy eating domestically. Yet, this is also the result of lower purchasing power limiting accessibility to fresh, healthy products – a corollary to Europe’s recent economic crisis. A situation that does not seem to have affected Canada as much. And while younger ItalianCanadians may not be carrying on the tradition of making their own preserves or growing vegetables in their gardens, it is now paradoxically easier than ever to connect and reconnect with Italian culinary habits. With Italian food products now a common staple in most Canadian supermarkets, all it takes is a bit of effort and good will. PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

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Alberto Sordi's Maccheroni Challenge in Steno's “Un americano a Roma” (1954)

Edible Expressions A look at favourite Italian food-related sayings By Rita Simonetta

Considering food is at the core of Italian society and that Italian ingredients and dishes are known the world over, it’s no wonder that the language is full of expressions related to food. The following are some of the most well-known phrases that are worth getting to know. A tavola non si invecchia No one can escape the fast pace of modern life, not even Italians who have adopted a more North American approach to life on the go. But for most, suppertime remains a time to sit, eat, enjoy and relax. It’s only fitting, then, that Italians have concocted the saying “a tavola non si invecchia” or “one does not age at the table.” And any North American who has enjoyed a supper at a friend’s house in Italy – and is still nibbling, sipping wine and chatting three hours later – can attest to the truth of this phrase. Buono come il pane The aroma and taste of freshly baked Italian bread fully explains the existence of the expression, “buono come il pane” or “as good as bread.” Italians use it in the same way North Americans use “as good as gold.” If an Italian describes a person or thing as “buono come il pane,” it doesn’t get much better than that. Conosco i miei polli “I know my own chicken.” What an odd thing to say? But things make more sense when you accompany it with an all-knowing look, a determined nodding of the head, and of course, say it in Italian with brimming confidence, “conosco i miei polli.” The expression means, “I know what I’m talking about,” and it’s a phrase uttered by Italian mothers all around the world. È andato liscio come l’olio Olive oil is considered one of Italy’s nutritious superstars, so it’s only natural that it’s referenced in conversation even when the situation at hand is not directly about food. If your board meeting this morning went smoothly or your first day on the job went without a hitch, an Italian would say “è andato liscio come l’olio” (it went smooth as oil). 32

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Fare una spaghettata If you’re among a circle of Italian friends (whether in Italy or Canada) and you’re invited a fare una spaghtettata (to eat spaghetti), you aren’t really being invited for just spaghetti. In fact, spaghetti might not even be served. It’s just a whimsical way of saying “getting together to eat.” The emphasis is on good food, good friends and good conversation. Sei sempre in mezzo come il prezzemolo Parsley is one of the most beloved of Italian herbs and it’s a ubiquitous part of the country’s cuisine. Italians put parsley – whether as a base ingredient or garnish – in antipastos, soups, pasta dishes, and fish or meat courses. This habit of being everywhere all the time is the motivation behind the phrase “sei sempre in mezzo come il prezzemolo!” (you are always in the way like parsley!). So, in other words, stop being a nuisance, mind your own business, and get out of the way! Sono pieno come un uovo No more for me, thanks, I’m stuffed, or as the Italians would say, “sono pieno come un uovo,” which translates as “I am full as an egg.” To be sure, it’s an odd expression and an even quirkier image. But considering the English-speaking world invented the phrase “stuffed to the gills” (a reference to fish being stuffed before being cooked) to express being full after a meal, “sono pieno come un uovo” is the clear winner. Tutto fa brodo Every one of us knows a frugal family member who reuses unprocessed stamps or is fond of regifting. Well, these are the sorts who gladly live by the expression “tutto fa brodo” (everything makes soup), which stands for “every bit helps.” The concept originates from the introduction of Italian peasant soups, many of which were based on inexpensive ingredients, but with the right dose of love, creativity and resourcefulness, they became hearty meals to feed a large family.


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SAVOUR THE MOMENT

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Recommended Italian Cookbooks By Gabriel Riel-Salvatore & Rita Simonetta

Cooking and food are among the finest expressions of Italian culture, vividly portraying the country’s history, regions and traditions. Here’s a collection of some recommended Italian cookbooks, from the classic guides to the most recent and popular blockbusters, which celebrate this wonderful culinary heritage.

Classics

Homemade The Silver Spoon (Il cucchiaio d’argento) Published by Phaidon, 2007

At Home with Maria Loggia By Maria Loggia Published by Cardinal, 2012

First published in 1950, The Silver Spoon (Il cucchiaio d’argento) has become the most successful Italian cookbook in Italy. Since its introduction more than five decades ago, it has been updated – and translated to English – to reflect changing culinary appetites. But make ample room in your cookbook library for this tome: it now boasts more than 2,000 recipes and 400 new full-colour photographs. The cookbook is considered a resource of authentic Italian cooking and contains recipes and dishes largely unknown outside of Italian borders.

Maria Loggia, who hails from Hudson, Québec, infuses her cookbook with a love of family. In fact, all the homemade recipes included in At Home with Maria Loggia were inspired by family members as well as friends. At the heart of Loggia’s cooking is a passion for seasonal ingredients and elegant simplicity, something that is at the core of her popular cooking classes, Tavola Mia.

The Talisman Italian Cookbook (Il talismano della felicità) By Ada Boni Published by The Crown Publishing Group, 1950

The Healthy Italian: Cooking for the Love of Food and Family by Fina Scroppo Published by Danvid & Company Inc, 2013

First published in 1928, Ada Boni’s Il Talismano is still considered the most accessible and popular Italian cookbook, so much so that it was commonly passed on within generations of families, from nonna to mother to daughter to granddaughter. Its appeal lies in Boni’s expertise – she was a professional food writer who guided aspiring cooks around the kitchen with ease. Equally important to the cookbook’s longevity is its inclusion of recipes that highlight the culinary traditions of Italy’s regions. Readers will find everything from a traditional fish soup from Syracuse, Sicily to a Genoese Easter spinach pie to spaghetti all’amatriciana, a beloved dish from Boni’s native Rome. The Talisman Italian Cookbook has been updated several times and now features more than 1,000 recipes.

Safe Bets

Star Chefs Made In Italy: Food and Stories by Giorgio Locatelli Published by HarperCollins Publishers, 2007

Giorgio Locatelli is known to foodies far and wide as an innovative chef whose lengthy résumé includes working at Michelin-starred restaurants throughout London, England. The Italian-born chef was raised in Corgeno, near the Italian-Swiss border, and began his culinary life helping out in his family’s restaurant. Nowadays, he is considered to be the best Italian chef in the UK. And his cookbook, Made in Italy: Food and Stories, has garnered the same critical and public acclaim. The 624-page illustrated book showcases Locatelli’s expertise and is peppered with personal stories based on Locatelli’s love of food and career. Made in Italy: Food and Stories is widely considered a modern-day Italian food bible. Pizza: Seasonal Recipes From Rome's Legendary Pizzarium by Gabriele Bonci Contribution by Elisia Menduni Published by Rizzoli, 2013 Gabriele Bonci has been called “the King of Pizza” in Italy, and that’s no small feat for a country that is synonymous with the legendary pie. He shot to fame with Pizzarium, his small pizzeria in Rome, which in the past 10 years has become a mecca for pizza lovers. In this cookbook, Bonci shares tips and tricks to create the perfect pie by outlining the proper terminology, ingredients, tools and ingredients. There are more than 80 recipes to satisfy pizza enthusiasts as well as inventive suggestions for fried pizzas, sandwich pizzas and pizza topping variations.

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The many nutritious aspects of Italian cuisine are the basis of Fina Scroppo’s cookbook. Scroppo, who was raised in an ItalianCanadian household in Toronto, was inspired by her roots as well as her life as a busy mom. The 150 recipes within the pages of The Healthy Italian reflect her passion for creating great-tasting and nutritious dishes while taking today’s fast-paced life into consideration

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Lidia's Favorite Recipes: 100 Foolproof Italian Dishes By Lidia Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group, 2012 Lidia Bastianich is a culinary powerhouse in North America with a slew of restaurants, a hit cooking show and cookbooks to her credit. The beloved American cookbook author and chef was born in Italy, lending her recipes and dishes an authentic flair. In Lidia’s Favorite Recipes, the culinary superstar features her favourite selection of sauces, desserts and everything in between. Fans will also appreciate information about seasonal foods and ingredient nutritional values. Made In Italy by David Rocco HarperCollins Publishers, 2012 Toronto’s David Rocco has made a career from combining Italian living with cooking. Made in Italy, much like Rocco’s TV show David Rocco’s Dolce Vita, serves as a cross between a cookbook and travelogue. The armchair traveller and foodie will appreciate the cookbook for its beautiful location photography of il Belpaese and over 200 recipes. It is a testament to modern-day regional Italian dishes made with fresh, quality ingredients without fuss.


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ITALIAN-CANADIAN DIET

all’Italiana! Paolo Patrito

C’è a chi piace fritto, arrosto, oppure al forno. Avvolto in un cartoccio o in semplice foglio di carta, comprato in un locale o in un chiosco, oppure a bordo di un furgone riadattato. Parliamo dello street food, il cibo nato per essere acquistato e consumato per strada, che sta vivendo un periodo d’oro, soprattutto in Italia e tra i giovani che riscoprono le tradizioni gastronomiche dello stivale. sud a nord, da est a ovest, a fianco di locali secolari fioriscono un pò ovunque nuove attività dedicate a specialità che si mangiano con le mani o – tutt’al più – con piatti e forchette di plastica, seduti su una panchina o sdraiati al parco. Un viaggio alla scoperta del cibo da strada italiano non può che partire dalla Sicilia, regione che fu il granaio dell’Impero Romano e poi terra di incroci culturali e gastronomici tra Arabi, Normanni e Spagnoli. Uno dei simboli dell’isola è l’arancino o arancina, crocchetta di riso preparata in diversi modi (la più classica con zafferano, formaggio, ragù e piselli) e poi fritta. Se volete gustarne uno a Palermo un buon indirizzo è la pasticceria Alba. Già che siete in città, consigliamo un assaggio di pane e panelle (panino ripieno di frittelle di ceci) o di sfincione, pasta di pane ricoperta di pomodoro, sarde, cipolla e ricotta. Per gli stomaci forti un classico è il pani ca meusa, il panino imbottito di fette di milza vaccina cotte nello strutto. Il dolce mette d’accordo tutti: ogni angolo è buono per gustare un cannolo espresso, riempito al momento di ricotta dolce. Queste ed altre specialità possono essere mangiate in strada passeggiando per i principali mercati palermitani: Vucciria, Ballarò e il Capo.

Da

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Risalire la penisola può essere un viaggio lungo e faticoso, ma una sosta ad Alberobello in Puglia metterà d’accordo cuore e stomaco. Passeggiando tra i bianchissimi trulli è obbligatorio sbocconcellare una bombetta, involtino di carne di capocollo ripieno di formaggio e salumi cotto alla brace. Le Marche offrono un’interessante cucina di mare e di terra, ma per strada si mangiano le olive all’ascolana, ripiene di manzo, maiale, un pò di pollo, parmigiano, vino bianco e noce moscata. Impanate e fritte, si sciolgono in bocca. Un consiglio: compratele nella gastronomia Migliori ad Ascoli Piceno e sgranocchiatele ammirando la monumentale piazza Arringo, cuore della Ascoli medievale. Centro Italia vuol dire anche porchetta. I panini ripieni di fette di maiale cotto intero allo spiedo e insaporito da erbe e spezie si trovano un pò ovunque dalla Toscana all’Abruzzo, ma la loro patria di elezione è Ariccia, piccola località nei Castelli Romani, a pochi passi dalla capitale. Qui la porchetta si può gustare nelle osterie chiamate fraschette, ma anche in chioschi e rosticcerie ambulanti. Se Roma ha il suo cibo da strada, Firenze non è certo da meno. Il lampredotto (terzo stomaco del bovino) regna sovrano. Cotto in un brodo con carote, sedano e cipolla e servito in mezzo al pane, può essere al sugo, sbucciato (cioè privato della


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parte liscia, più grassa) o “con il cappello bagnato”, cioè la parte superiore del panino può essere intinta nel brodo di cottura. In città il suo santuario è il mercato di San Lorenzo. Da lì al Duomo il passo è breve, così potrete consumare l’umile lampredotto all’ombra del campanile di Giotto. In Italia esistono mille tipi diversi di panini, ma c’è una regione dove al pane si preferisce un goloso sostituto. In Romagna la regina della cucina, non solo di strada, è la piada. È un impasto di acqua, farina e strutto, preparato fresco ogni giorno e cotto su un testo, una piastra di metallo o di materiale refrattario che ricopre l’intera superficie della stufa. Può essere mangiata a tavola per accompagnare le pietanze, ma dà il suo meglio farcita di prosciutto crudo con l’eventuale aggiunta di squacquerone, un formaggio molle tipico della zona. Esiste anche una variante, il crescione (o cassone o cascione), una piada piegata a metà e sigillata come un raviolo. Fino a qualche anno fa era quasi impossibile mangiare una buona piada al di fuori del territorio d’origine, ma da un pò di tempo la “piadina-mania” ha portato all’apertura di piadinerie discrete un pò ovunque nelle grandi città. Nulla di paragonabile, però, alla piada fragrante servita nei chioschi da Cesena a Riccione, passando per Rimini e Cesenatico e i paesi del circondario. Sull’altro mare, in Liguria, protagonista èancora la farina. A Genova, miscelata con acqua, lievito, sale e strutto, condita con abbondate olio extravergine diventa la celebre focaccia, ottima comunque, meglio se mangiata calda di forno girovagando tra i vicoli della città vecchia. A Recco la focaccia è una sfoglia sottile, ma ripiena di formaggio filante. Nel savonese, lungo la riviera di Ponente, si mangia invece la farinata, qui proposta in due versioni: gialla con farina di ceci e bianca con farina di frumento. Liscia o farcita, in ogni caso una delizia. Il fenomeno street food non sembra conoscere freni, nonostante le secche della crisi economica. C’è persino chi progetta furgoncini di design personalizzati per ogni tipo di cibo da strada, riconvertendo mitiche Ape Piaggio (www.streetfoodmobile.com) e chi progetta Bonpat (“a poco prezzo” in dialetto piemontese), un’applicazione per mappare i locali di street food del territorio: bonpat.tumblr.com.

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LIFE & PEOPLE

Un soupçon de Dolce Vita dans la Vieille Capitale ! Sur la trace des Italiens de Québec Texte et photos par Gabriel Riel-Salvatore

Difficile de parler d'une communauté Italienne proprement dite dans la Vieille Capitale, ville homogène s’il en est une. Panoram Italia est toutefois parvenu à retrouver une poignée d’Italiens pure laine venus poser leurs pénates à l’ombre du Château Frontenac. Parcours hors-normes au cœur de Québec. elon le recensement canadien de 2011, seules 505 personnes affirmaient parler l’italien à la maison dans la Capitale Nationale québécoise. Un nombre ridiculement bas comparé aux 76 540 âmes dont l’italien est la langue maternelle à Montréal. Sur une population dépassant le demi-million, autant chercher une aiguille dans une botte de foin. Panoram Italia s’est livré au jeu et est allé à la recherche de ces Italiens venus prêter allégeance au Bonhomme Carnaval. Il faut dire d’entrée de jeu que la ville conserve un caractère européen qui rappelle à bien des égards le Vieux Continent. Le charme du Vieux-Québec a rapidement séduit Luigi Leone, le propriétaire du restaurant Au Parmesan, situé sur la rue SaintLouis à deux pas du Château Frontenac. Serveur-globe-trotter invétéré, Luigi a longtemps roulé sa bosse à travers les États-Unis et le Canada avant que l’amour ne le retienne finalement à Québec au courant des années 1970.

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Son restaurant qui célèbre cette année ses 40 ans s'est transformé au fil du temps en une véritable institution pour les amateurs de cuisine italienne de Québec. Réelle caverne d'Ali Baba, cet endroit aussi coloré que son propriétaire vaut à lui seul le détour pour sa collection de bibelots en tout genre et ses 4000 bouteilles triées sur le volet. Luigi se définit avant tout comme un ambassadeur de la vraie cuisine italienne. Son restaurant s'est d'ailleurs vu décerner la plaque honorifique : « Veri ristoranti italiani nel Mondo. » Une consécration pour cet immigrant qui a toujours travaillé d'arrache-pied pour promouvoir la gastronomie italienne traditionnelle. « C'est sûr qu'on a dû adapter nos menus aux besoins de la clientèle qui rechigne notamment à adopter la formule classique du primo et secondo. Ici, un plat de pâtes c'est un plat principal », explique Luigi qui ne recule toutefois devant rien pour pro-


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LIFE & PEOPLE Son fils Gianni qui a maintenant pris la relève du magasin, n'est pas du genre à côtoyer le Club italiano où son père retrouve chaque dimanche une poignée de vieux Italiens pour échanger et converser dans la langue de Dante. Bien qu'il se considère encore Italien, Gianni affirme n'avoir aucun ami italien de son âge. « C'est ce qui se produit avec toutes les nationalités à Québec, pas juste les Italiens. Elles finissent toutes par se faire assimiler et se fondre dans la masse », précise-t-il. Les Italiens ont toujours été bien accueillis à Québec. La proximité de la langue et le côté chaleureux de leur culture y sont sans doute pour beaucoup. Ils se sont tous biens intégrés et ont pour la plupart fondé des entreprises prospères qui témoignent de leur caractère impétueux et de leur ardeur au travail. Difficile toutefois de parler d'une relève. « Avant on avait surtout affaire à des manœuvres ou des gens issus de la restauration. Aujourd’hui, bien qu’on assiste à un exode des cerveaux dans le Belpaese, les jeunes de la nouvelle immigration italienne peinent à faire reconnaître leurs diplômes et à obtenir les permis de travail nécessaires pour considérer s'installer ici », révèle Riccardo Rossini, professeur d'italien à l'Université Laval et consul honoraire d'Italie à Québec. Comme tous bons Italiens, ceux qui se sont enracinés dans la Vieille Capitale ont tous su prospérer à leur manière en misant sur une valeur sure : la beauté de leur culture. Pour le reste, même si elle ne convient pas exactement aux aspirations des futurs immigrants italiens, la ville de Québec continue d’opérer son charme auprès des Italiens qui s’y attardent. Comme en témoigne Laura Sargentini, une touriste italienne vivant en Belgique, de passage pour visiter son fils en programme d’échange en agronomie à l’Université Laval. « C’est ma troisième visite. J’adore cette ville et son atmosphère paisible. Je n’hésiterais pas un instant à y envoyer aussi mon second fils », détaille-t-elle, rajoutant qu’elle serait même ravie si son plus vieux devait un jour s’y installer définitivement.

mouvoir des produits authentiques de grande qualité. « On n'est pas comme ces autres restaurants de la région qui ne savent même pas ce que signifie le terme al dente. » Et si Luigi est en partie si fier de ses produits, c'est notamment parce qu'il confectionne lui-même plusieurs spécialités italiennes inscrites à l’ardoise. Originaire de Parme, en Émilie-Romagne, il a rapporté avec lui plusieurs secrets culinaires qu'il a su savamment adapter à la réalité québécoise. Son prosciutto et son vinaigre balsamique traditionnel contribuent désormais à la réputation de son menu. Bref, difficile d'être plus italien à Québec que dans ce restaurant où tous les soirs les rigodons cèdent le pas aux airs de tarantella. Une des pièces de l’établissement est même entièrement consacrée à l’écurie Ferrari et son fameux pilote Gilles Villeneuve. Preuve que l'Italie et le Québec ont toujours fait bon ménage… Bien qu'il ait vécu presque toute sa vie à Québec, Giovanni Maur se définit avant tout comme un designer italien. « Je vais en Italie deux-trois fois par année pour trouver les produits que j'utilise dans mes conceptions. » Cette définition lui sied bien et les gens apprécient cette touche d'exotisme lorsqu’ils font affaire avec lui. « Le design italien jouit d'une très bonne réputation. C'est évidemment excellent pour les affaires », affirme le sexagénaire originaire de Gorizia, dans le Frioul. On peut reconnaitre sa griffe dans plusieurs grandes boutiques et restaurants de Québec, dont au Parmesan et le fameux bar Dagobert, situé non loin sur la rue Grande Allée. Tout comme Giovanni, c'est le fruit du hasard qui a mené Emilio Colarusso à Québec. D'abord établi à Montréal, comme la plupart de ses concitoyens d’origine italienne, c'est lors d'une visite dans la Vieille Capitale vers la fin des années 1950 qu'il fait le grand saut à la suite d’un coup de tête. À la vue d’une boutique à louer sur le boulevard Saint-Jean, il saisit l'occasion et décide de s’ouvrir un magasin d’alimentation. Son Épicerie Européenne vend depuis maintenant plus de 50 ans quantité de produits italiens. « Avant, il y avait plus d'Italiens qui venaient s'approvisionner chez nous. Maintenant, bon nombre d'entre eux sont soit répartis ou ne sont simplement plus de ce monde... On n’était déjà pas très nombreux à l’époque. Maintenant, c'est bien différent. »

Luigi Leone, propriétaire du restaurant Au Parmesan, et le designer Giovanni Maur

Carnet d'adresses : Restaurant Au Parmesan 38 Rue Saint Louis, Québec, QC G1R 3Z2 (418) 692-0341

Épicerie Européenne 560 Saint-Jean Rue, Québec, QC (418) 529-4847

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FOOD

Whip it Good, Friuli Style! Baccalà mantecato (creamy whipped salt cod) on a bed of soft polenta Recipe by Chef Fabrizio Caprioli of Montreal’s Barcola Bistro / Photography by Fahri Yavuz

Ingredients for baccalà mantecato

Instructions

• 1 pound (450 g) boneless baccalà (salt cod), soaked in cold water for at least 36 h to remove salt (leave container in fridge and change water every day)

1. When the baccalà is sufficiently soaked, cut into small pieces of approximately 6 inches.

• 1-2 plump garlic cloves • 1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil • 1 cup (250 ml) canola, corn or peanut oil • 2 l full fat milk (3.25%) for poaching baccalà • Salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

Recommended equipment A heavy-duty electric mixer with the paddle attachment (for a flakier texture) or a food processor (for a creamier texture) 42

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2. In a medium cooking pot or deep skillet, warm milk to 90 °C. Add baccalà, and cook at a steady simmering boil for 40 minutes or more, until baccalà is easy to flake but still has body and shape. Don’t let it start to break apart. Lift it out of the cooking milk, and let it drain and cool in a colander. 3. Meanwhile, mix the two types of oils in a small cooking pot and bring to medium-low heat. Add garlic and cook for about 5 minutes. Let it cool, and remove garlic. 4. Set up the electric mixer and flake all the fish into the bowl. Beat with the paddle at low speed to break the fish up more. Then beat at medium speed while you gradually pour the oil in a thin stream.

5. Once you have incorporated all the oil, increase the speed to high and whip the fish to obtain a lighter consistency. 6. At this point the whipped baccalà should be smooth and fluffy, almost like mashed potatoes but with texture. If it is too dense, you can thin it with a small amount of cooking milk or a bit more oil. 7. Finally, season with pepper and beat it in to blend. If you use a food processor instead of a mixer, follow the same order of additions, and process as needed to form a light, smooth spread. 8. Serve right away or put the spread in containers and store sealed, in the refrigerator, for up to a week. You can also freeze baccalà mantecato; the texture will not be as creamy, but it will have good flavour and makes a delicious pasta sauce. To regain its creamy texture, simply cook with a bit of warm milk in a saucepan.


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FOOD

Ingredients for soft polenta • 500 g yellow “medio-fine” polenta (preferably from Italy for a creamier texture) • 2 l water or chicken stock • 1-2 tbsp. unsalted butter • Salt to taste • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving (optional) • Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (use as a garnish)

Instructions 1. In a cooking pot, bring water to a boil. Slowly pour polenta into the hot liquid, whisking briskly to prevent clumping. Reduce the heat to low, cover (to prevent a crust from forming at the surface) and cook for about 35 minutes. 2. Add butter (and cheese) stirring gently until incorporated and serve immediately for a creamier texture. 3. Spoon or ladle a mound of soft polenta on a plate or shallow bowl. Add a baccalà quennelle over the polenta and garnish with parsley, freshly ground pepper and a good unclear olive oil.

Additional suggestions Crostini bread

Polenta with ricotta

Toasted crostini bread and baccalà mantecato, topped with pitted taggiasca olives, prezzemolata and a good extra virgin olive oil.

Soft polenta with grated smoked ricotta, freshly ground pepper and a good extra virgin olive oil.

See video of this recipe online at panoramitalia.com 44

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LIVING ITALIAN STYLE

Go to panoramitalia.com and click on “Living Italian Style” to submit your profile!

Mauro Lato Occupation: Student in Sports Marketing and Management Age: 20 Generation: Third Dad from: San Clemente di Galluccio, Caserta Mom from: Baranello, Molise Speaks: Italian, English & French Raised in: Rivière-des-Prairies (RDP), Montréal Favourite Italian dish: Risotto con porcini e parmigiano grattugiato Favourite ingredient: Mozzarella di bufala What do you like most about eating Italian? The irony of Italian cuisine… Prepared simply, needing only a handful of ingredients, yet it remains unparalleled worldwide Best Italian grocery store in Montreal: L’Inter Marché De Risi – Langelier Best pizza in Montreal: Bottega Pizzeria Best Italian restaurant in Montreal: Ristorante Primo & Secondo Best caffè in Montreal: Caffè San Simeon Favourite vino: Tignanello Your Nonna’s famous dish: Her homemade cavatelli, definitely 46

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Your foolproof recipe: Spaghetti aglio e olio, with mini sweet peppers Italian product you wish you could find in Canada: I miss Pavesini cookies. They used to be available but are not distributed anymore. Italian dish you want to learn to cook one day: Fiori di zucca ripieni e fritti Guilty pleasure: My nonno Berardino’s homemade capicollo Best food memory growing up: I’ll never forget my late nonna Eleonora’s struffoli. As per tradition, she would make it every Christmas. Her recipe remains unmatched… embedded in my mind and on my taste buds forever.

Cynthia Marie Broccoli Occupation: Chartered Accountant, Manager at PricewaterhouseCoopers and Mom Age: 28 Generation: Second Dad from: Le Marche Mom from: Greece Speaks: English, French, Greek & Italian Raised in: West Island Favourite Italian dish: Liguini ai frutti di mare Favourite ingredient: Basil What do you like most about eating Italian? The familiar taste that somehow always reminds you of a memory and your nonni’s garden. Best Italian grocery store in Montreal: Fruiterie Milano Best pizza in Montreal: Bottega Pizzeria Best Italian restaurant in Montreal: Ristorante Lucca Best caffè in Montreal: Ciociaro’s Favourite gelato flavour: Nocciola Favourite vino: Amarone What is an absolute must in your kitchen pantry? Taralli Your Nonna’s famous dish: This is a debate in my family, as

all her cooking is outstanding. My sister and dad would say her homemade cappelletti soup but I would say her lumache (sea snails). Your foolproof recipe: Ossobuco and lasagna Italian product you wish you could find in Canada: It would not be so much of a product but of a dish that somehow has not been mastered in Canada: Piadina, a flat bread generally made with prosciutto. Amazing and delicious! Italian dish you want to learn to cook one day: Homemade pasta – any kind. It’s much more difficult than it looks. Guilty pleasure: Amaretti Best food memory growing up: Nonna’s homemade white pizza sandwiched with homemade soppressata and friulano cheese.


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Photography by Fahri Yavuz

Makeup by Emmanuelle Blanchard

Occupation: Student at John Molson School of Business Age: 21 Generation: Third Dad from: Avezzano, Abruzzo Mom from: Madeira, Portugal Speaks: English, French, Italian & Portuguese Raised in: D.D.O.

Favourite ingredient: Italian olive oil What do you like most about eating Italian? The quality of the ingredients used in Italian cooking.

LIVING ITALIAN STYLE

Davina Loporcaro

Nicolas Pendenza

Favourite Italian dish: Gnocchi with truffle sauce

Location: Rialto Theatre

Occupation: Law Student Age: 22 Generation: Second Dad from: Bari, Puglia Mom from: Campobasso, Molise Speaks: English, Italian & French Raised in: Lasalle

What is an absolute must in your kitchen pantry? San Marzano tomatoes

Favourite Italian dish: Nonna Mena’s cavatelli and Nonna Teresa’s meatballs

Your Nonna’s famous dish: Involtini di vitello

Favourite ingredient: Cherry tomatoes

Your foolproof recipe: Risotto alla Bolognese

Favourite vino: Anselmi San Vincenzo What is an absolute must in your kitchen pantry? Seasonello herbal salt. Great on any meal!

Best Italian grocery store in Montreal: Fruiterie Milano

Italian product you wish you could find in Canada: Authentic Burrata cheese

What do you like most about eating Italian? It disregards traditional diet rules: the more you eat, the healthier you are!

Best pizza in Montreal: Vinizza Osteria-Enoteca

Italian dish you want to learn to cook one day: Ossobuco alla Milanese

Best Italian grocery store in Montreal: Jean-Talon Market

Italian product you wish you could find in Canada: Fresh Mozzarella di Bufala

Guilty pleasure: Nutella

Best pizza in Montreal: Pizza Caprese at Bottega

Best food memory growing up: Helping my dad make pizza from scratch.

Best Italian restaurant in Montreal: Ristorante Lucca

Italian dish you want to learn to cook one day: Homemade salsiccia

Best Italian restaurant in Montreal: Hostaria Best caffè in Montreal: Caffè Italia Favourite gelato flavour: Tiramisù Favourite vino: Brunello di Montalcino

Best caffè in Montreal: Nespresso Favourite gelato flavour: Tiramisù

Your Nonna’s famous dish: Maccheroni al forno Your foolproof recipe: Linguine alle vongole

Guilty pleasure: Nutella pizza Best food memory growing up: Annual Christmas Eve dinners at Zia Mary’s house

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FASHION

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Frames, fabbricati in Italia By Alessia Sara Domanico

Whether you fancy Persol or Prada, salute the return of sunny skies with a pair of shades from the Italian master house of Luxottica. back to these consummate professionals season after season to tatistically speaking, a pair of Ray-Bans is sold every secmanufacture and distribute their UV Ray combatting accessories. ond,” declares a Luxottica marketing exec about sales from Fellow Milan-based Prada commissions Luxottica to replicate the Group’s most popular eyewear brands to a classroom its unconventional and colourful clothing collections in each set of full of students at Bocconi University, Milan’s answer to private ivy spectacles; the French maison of Chanel entrusts them to make those league business schools, which just so happens to have a partnership chunky black, cat-eye curved specs; the Luxottica craftspeople are with the Schulich School of Business at Toronto’s York University. In also the ones behind those glittering keys and floral motifs on the what has been more than a decade of tough financial times for the arms of the iconic Tiffany & Co. specs; and don’t forget the gilded and Italian economy as a whole, success stories such as that of eyewear smart frames from Dolce & Gabbana that are always at the higherempire Luxottica are rare and worthy of examination. end of the sun and optical spectrum. An onslaught A leader in the design, production, distribuof Olympic athletes from the past winter games in tion and sales of premium, luxury and sports eyeSochi also accessorized with Luxottica’s specialist wear, the 2013 facts and figures for Luxottica chartsports brand Oakley, while Team Italy had Luxottica ed net sales of more than €7.3 billion (over $11 billicensed glasses from Giorgio Armani. lion CDN) and over 70,000 employees worldwide – This season’s musts from the Luxottica brands impressive numbers for a once small Italian venture. include the solid white-rimmed Aviators from RayLuxottica began in 1961, founded by Leonardo Del Ban as well as the Ray-Ban Remix service which lets Vecchio, an orphaned spectacle parts maker who accessory buffs customize their glasses in different would go on to polish his skills in the town of colours and styles. Square and teardrop style sunAgordo, Belluno, home of the nation’s eyewear glasses from Stella McCartney also make for musts as industry. Del Vecchio’s original mandate stands true part of a new summer collection that features five today: to protect eyes while also improving the way oversized, modern styles in a new colour palette of men and women, everywhere, look – a bold aim, but copper, blue, pink tortoise and bordeaux. The new one that we see reinforced each and every time we Eva Mendes Vogue Eyewear Wave sunglasses for men from Burberry are also a lot see an average Joe throw on a pair of Ray-Ban Launch, LA of fun for summer as they feature vibrant and transluWayfarers at the beach and transform themselves cent colours and graphic dots with frames that are handmade in lightinto a would-be celebrity. weight acetate with a bold brow detail. Also for men over at DKNY are Headquartered in Milan, with global operations throughout the new Mirror sunglasses with a futuristic layered effect that is perfect Europe, Asia and North America, Luxottica has forged a monopoly for reflecting the cool blue waves. The always unconventional Miu Miu in the world of eyewear. Whether conscious of it or not, shoppers proposes the “Rasoir” style for this spring, a design consisting of semiliterally cannot go hunting for this must-have accessory without at rimless black acetate cat-eyed frames which are highly original in their least consulting one of Luxottica’s many international retail chains design, but therefore very hard to pull off for those run-of-the-mill (Sunglass Hut and Lenscrafters) or trying on a pair of glasses from circumstances. one of their many licensed brands. The top brands keep on coming

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1. TIFFANY & CO 2. VOGUE 3. GIORGIO ARMANI 4. OAKLEY 5. DOLCE & GABBANA 6. PRADA 7. RAY-BAN 8. PAUL SMITH 9. VERSACE


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Friuli

A small compendium of the universe Un condensé de l’univers By / par Sabrina Marandola

Imagine being able to ski on snow-capped mountains in the morning, and then ditch the cold for a sunbathing session on a sandy beach in the afternoon. It’s possible in Friuli – a place that’s home to the Friuli Dolomites mountains peaking at more than 2,700 metres above sea level, and a coastline by the Adriatic Sea that runs longer than 110 kilometres. This northeastern area of Italy has it all – so much so that it has its own definition: “Il Friuli è un piccolo compendio dell'universo.” (Friuli is a small compendium of the universe.)

Imaginez pouvoir skier sur des cimes enneigées le matin pour ensuite fuir le froid des pentes pour une session de bronzage sur une plage de sable blond l’après-midi même. C’est ce que vous offre le Frioul, cet endroit dominé par les Dolomites dont les sommets fuselés pointent à plus de 2700 mètres d’altitude, et où la mer Adriatique longe le littoral sur près de 110 kilomètres de côte. Cette région du nord-est de l’Italie combine tout cela à la fois, tant et si bien qu’elle possède sa propre définition : « Il Friuli è un piccolo compendio dell'universo. » (Le Frioul est un petit compendium de l’univers).

ou have mountains, the sea, plains and valleys,” says Paola Codutti, president of Montreal’s Friulian association called Fogolâr Furlan “Chino Ermacora” Montréal (named after a Friulian writer and documentary film director). “Friuli is also known for its culinary/wine culture, and it’s very close to other countries.” The region is known for its white grapes, high-quality wines, and produces almost 3 per cent of all wine in Italy. With more than one million inhabitants, Friuli makes up the major part of the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, which borders Austria and Slovenia. “When I went to Friuli with my mom, we went to Austria, Croatia, and also biked to Slovenia,” recalls 18year-old Sophie Mandrile, a Montrealer who feels strong ties to her parents’ native Friuli. Her father Ugo Mandrile was born in Friuli, and lived there until he immigrated to Canada in 1982 at the age of 30. “Friuli is the place where I lived the best years of my life,” Mandrile says, adding that it was a very culturally-rich place to live. “On my street, there were Napoletani, Calabresi, Veneti – it was a very multi-regional place.” Although Mandrile only left the old country in the 1980s, most Friulani – like most Italians in the rest of Italy – emigrated just after World War II. However, many Friulani stayed within Europe. “Switzerland, France and Belgium were the first places they immigrated,” says Mandrile, a Fogolâr council member and secretary. In fact, according to research in a master’s thesis paper by Mauro Peressini, most Friulani – almost 40 per cent – went to Switzerland during the peak of the immigration wave in the 1950s. Belgium, France, and Holland also became home to many Friulani, as did Germany, Sweden and England. Today, 56 per cent of all Friulani immigrants live in Europe.

ous avez les montagnes, la mer, les plaines et les vallées », explique Paola Codutti, présidente de l’association frioulane de Montréal : Fogolâr Furlan « Chino Ermacora » Montréal (nommée en l’honneur de l’écrivain et documentariste frioulan). « Le Frioul est aussi réputé pour sa gastronomie et ses vins, et borde plusieurs autres pays. » La région se distingue en effet pour ses grands vins blancs qui comptent pour environ trois pour cent de la production nationale. Avec plus d’un million d’habitants, le Frioul compose la majorité du territoire du Frioul-Vénétie julienne, région autonome au statut spécial limitrophe de l’Autriche et de la Slovénie. « Quand je suis allée au Frioul avec ma mère, nous sommes passées par l’Autriche, la Croatie et avons même fait de la bicyclette en Slovénie », se remémore Sophie Mandrile, une jeune montréalaise de 18 ans, qui conserve un fort attachement au lieu d’origine de ses parents. Son père, Ugo Mandrile, est né au Frioul et y a vécu jusqu’à ce qu’il émigre au Canada en 1982 à l’âge de 30 ans. Le Frioul est l’endroit où j’ai passé les meilleures années de ma vie », révèle-t-il, ajoutant qu’il s’agit d’un endroit très riche culturellement. « Sur ma rue vivaient des Napolitains, des Calabrais, des Vénitiens, etc. C’était le point de rencontre de tant de régions italiennes. » Bien que Mandrile n’ait quitté le Vieux Continent qu’au début des années 1980s, la plupart des Frioulans, comme bien des Italiens du reste, ont émigré peu après la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Plusieurs Frioulans sont toutefois demeurés en Europe. « La Suisse, la France et la Belgique ont été les premiers pays où ils s’établirent », explique Mandrile, membre du conseil et secrétaire des Fogolâr.

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The next most popular destination was South America, where almost 25 per cent of all Friulian immigrants now live – many in Venezuela, Argentina and Brazil. In the ’50s, many also went to Australia, and roughly 20 per cent of Friulani who made the trans-Atlantic trip post-World War II came to Canada. Codutti’s parents were among them. “My parents first went to Saskatchewan and then came to Quebec because my father had studied in France and Belgium, so he already knew French,” Codutti says, adding that growing up with two Friulani parents makes it feel like home. “I went to Friuli for the first time when I was three-and-ahalf years old. I remember being in the barn full of rabbits, with my grandfather. These memories are so vivid. Friuli was always in my heart,” says Codutti, who still visits Friuli at least once a year. She’s now in her 11th year as President of Fogolâr Furlan “Chino Ermacora” Montréal. The association was first founded in 1958. Today, with about 180 members, the council’s goal is to try to keep Friulian traditions and culture alive. “There are now about 2.5 million Friulani all over the world – about 100,000 are in Canada,” says Ugo Mandrile. Fogolâr Furlan gathers together with Montreal-Friulani about five times a year, organizing picnics, castagnate, and a special mass every April to celebrate Friuli’s Festa Nazionale. Furlans fevelait Furlan! Throughout history, Friulians developed their own particular identity, as the region was once part of the Venetian Republic with sections under the influence of the Austrian/Hungarian empires. So if you travel to Friuli today, you may not hear locals speaking Italian. That’s because Furlans fevelait Furlan – Friulians speak Friulian. It’s an official language – with its own dictionary – and spoken mainly in the provinces of Udine, Gorizia, and Pordenone. Although they live in Canada, both Mandrile and Codutti speak Friulian. “It starts from the parents to maintain the culture. We always spoke Friulano at home,” says Codutti.

Throughout history, Friulians developed their own particular identity, as the region was once part of the Venetian Republic with sections under the influence of the Austrian/Hungarian empires. “All of our monthly council meetings are conducted in Italian and/or Friulano, and when we meet for parties, we hear people speaking Friulano.” It’s something Sophie Mandrile can’t get enough of. “I love to help out the association whenever I can, and I love going to the parties because I love the Friuliani culture,” Mandrile says smiling, admitting she’s often the only young person there. “You hear this language that’s much different than Italian and people share their stories – it’s so enriching!” Mandrile is recently back from a trip to Friuli after winning a contest. The goal was to offer a two-week trip to 14 youths of Friulani origin from all over the world – teaching them about mosaic art, as well as Friulian culture and history. Mandrile was the only Canadian winner, and says she came back home very proud of her roots. “Many young Italian-Canadians have a pride in something they are not very informed about. This was really my first interaction with teenagers of Friulano descent. I got to learn their persepctive. I learned more about my culture in Italy than I ever did here.” It’s welcome news to her father Ugo, who has always spoken to her in Italian since she was born, but never forced Friulian upon her. “If the younger generation has no flame or spark, then the traditions won’t get carried on,” he says.

Selon les recherches menées par Mauro Peressini dans le cadre de son mémoire de maîtrise, la plupart des Frioulans (près de 40 pour cent) ont choisi la Suisse lors de la grande vague d’émigration des années 1950s. La Belgique, la France et la Hollande, ainsi que l’Allemagne, la Suède et l’Angleterre devinrent aussi des terres d’accueil pour bon nombre d’entre eux. La deuxième destination la plus populaire des Frioulans fut l’Amérique du sud. Près de 25 pour cent de tous les immigrants Frioulans vivent actuellement au Venezuela, en Argentine ou au Brésil. D’autres ont préféré l’Australie, et environ 20 pour cent de ceux qui ont entrepris la traversée transatlantique se sont fixés au Canada. Les parents de Codutti étaient du lot. « Mes parents sont d’abord allés en Saskatchewan pour ensuite migrer vers le Québec, car mon père avait étudié le français en Belgique », détaille Codutti. Pour elle, avoir grandi avec deux parents Frioulans renforce nécessairement son sentiment d’appartenance. « J’ai visité le Frioul pour la première fois à l’âge de trois ans. Je me rappelle aller dans la grange remplie de lapins avec mon grand-père. Ces souvenirs sont encore si frais. J’ai le Frioul gravé sur le cœur », explique Codutti, qui visite encore chaque année la région. Elle entame sa onzième année à la tête des Fogolâr Furlan « Chino Ermacora » Montréal, une association fondée en 1958. Aujourd’hui, avec quelques 180 membres, l’objectif du conseil cherche à maintenir en vie les traditions frioulanes. « Il existe environ 2,5 million de Frioulans à travers le monde dont près de 100 000 au Canada », révèle Ugo Mandrile. Les Fogolâr Furlan réunissent la communauté frioulane de Montréal environ cinq fois par année dans le cadre de piqueniques, de castagnate, et lors d’une messe spéciale tous les mois d’avril pour célébrer la fête nationale du Frioul. Furlans fevelait Furlan! Au fil du temps, les Frioulans ont développé leur propre identité, subissant les influences de la domination vénitienne et austro-hongroise. Si vous visitez le Frioul aujourd’hui, vous ne serez pas étonnés d’entendre les locaux s’exprimer dans une langue autre que l’italien. Car Furlans fevelait Furlan (les Frioulans parlent le frioulan), une langue officielle, avec son propre dictionnaire, parlée surtout dans les provinces d’Udine, de Gorizia et de Pordenone. Même s’ils vivent au Canada, tant Mandrile que Codutti parlent frioulan. « C’est le rôle des parents de maintenir la culture en vie. Nous parlons frioulan à la maison », explique Codutti. « Tous nos comités exécutifs ont lieu en italien et/ou en frioulan, et lorsque nous nous rencontrons lors des fêtes, on entend les gens parler frioulan. » C’est une réalité dans laquelle Sophie Mandrile se reconnaît entièrement. « J’adore donner un coup de main à l’association quand j’en ai la chance, et j’apprécie participer à ces réceptions, car j’aime la culture frioulane », affirme Mandrile souriante. Elle admet toutefois être souvent l’unique jeune. « Entendre cette langue si différente de l’italien et les gens raconter leurs histoires, c’est si enrichissant ! » Mandrile est récemment revenue d’un voyage au Frioul après avoir remporter un concours. Le but était d’offrir un séjour de deux semaines à 14 jeunes d’origine frioulane du monde entier pour leur enseigner l’art de la mosaïque, l’histoire et la culture frioulane. Mandrile était l’unique représentante canadienne et exprime un fort sentiment de fierté quant à ses racines. « Beaucoup de jeunes Italo-Canadiens sont fiers de leur culture d’origine, mais ne la connaissent souvent qu’en surface. C’était ma première interaction avec des adolescents d’origine frioulane. Ça m’a permis d’avoir leur perspective. J’ai plus appris sur ma culture d’origine en Italie que je n’ai jamais pu le faire ici ». Des bonnes nouvelles aux oreilles de son père Ugo qui lui a toujours adressé la parole en italien, mais sans jamais lui imposer le frioulan. « Si les jeunes générations n’ont pas la flamme, alors plus personne ne continuera à porter le flambeau des traditions », fait-il remarquer. (Translation G.R.S.) PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

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Trieste A cultural melting pot Crogiolo di razze e culture By Pericle Camuffo

Visiting Trieste for the first time, one gets the impression of not being in Italy, even though Trieste’s italianess was a bone of contention heavily fought for during the two World Wars. More similar to Vienna or Budapest than to other Italian cities, Trieste’s lineage to Austria goes back to the late 1300s – notwithstanding the brief French occupations throughout the 18th and the beginning of the 19th centuries. Austria finally returned the city to Italy on November 3, 1918.

Chi arriva a Trieste per la prima volta ha l’impressione di non essere in Italia, anche se per la sua italianità si è combattuto a lungo durante le due guerre mondiali. Più simile a Vienna e Budapest che ad altre città italiane, Trieste dichiara subito il suo lungo legame con la casa d’Austria iniziato verso la fine del 1300 e terminato, tranne le brevi occupazioni francesi tra Sette e Ottocento, il 3 novembre del 1918 con il ritorno della città all’Italia.

rieste’s main period of splendour is closely linked to the Austrian empire. Under Charles VI, it became the kingdom’s gateway to the Adriatic Sea and the main point for maritime exchanges with the Orient, attracting immigrants from around the world. Trieste’s cosmopolitan and intercultural nature persisted throughout the 19th century when it underwent significant economic and cultural growth. Thanks to its climate of tolerance and freedom, the city even became an asylum for the courts of the Bourbons and the Bonapartes. Dating back to Roman times, a period known as Tergeste, the many religious, cultural and urban traces left by the diverse cultures and ethnic groups that lived in Trieste reveal the city’s rich history. However, Trieste’s defining trait remains the Hapsburg’s multicultural imprint. Striking neoclassical, eclectic, and Liberty buildings embellish Trieste’s streets and squares. Piazza Unità, overlooking the sea and considered one of the prettiest in the world, is the best starting point to discover the rich architectural heritage of the city. Around the square are stunning examples of neo-classical architecture, such as the Palazzo del Governo, the Palazzo Stratti (headquarters of the Generali Insurance Company), the Palazzo del Municipio (city hall), and the Palazzo Lloyd Triestino. Two 18th century monuments are also found on the Piazza: the baroque Fontana dei Quattro Continenti (1751) and the column with the statue of Emperor Charles VI (1728). Another area where different architectural styles can be admired is Piazza della Borsa, in the old Borgo Teresiano.

infatti legandosi alle sorti dell’Impero austriaco che Trieste raggiunse il suo massimo splendore. Scelta come sbocco primario sull’Adriatico e resa centro nevralgico degli scambi marittimi con il vicino Oriente da Carlo VI, la città divenne centro di immigrazione di genti provenienti da tutte le parti del mondo. Tale massiccia immigrazione marcò il carattere cosmopolita ed interculturale della città che rimase caratteristica centrale anche quando, nel XIX secolo, Trieste conobbe una forte ripresa economica e fu coinvolta attivamente nella vita politica e culturale dell’intera Europa. Nel suo clima di tolleranza e libertà trovarono asilo anche le corti dei Bonaparte e dei Borboni di Spagna. Nonostante ci siano testimonianze che raccontano la Tergeste romana, fondata come colonia intorno alla metà del I secolo a.C. (l’Arco di Riccardo, il Teatro romano ed i ritrovamenti di edifici nell’attuale Piazza della Cattedrale sul colle di San Giusto), ciò che rappresenta ancora oggi l’unicità della città è la sua eredità asburgica e soprattutto l’impronta multiculturale di tale eredità. Trieste è infatti attraversata dalla presenza di etnie e culture diverse che hanno lasciato le proprie tracce nel suo tessuto urbanistico, culturale e religioso. Edifici in stile Neoclassico, Eclettico e Liberty impreziosiscono piazze e vie della città. Piazza Unità, considerata, tra quelle affacciate sul mare, una delle più belle del mondo, è il luogo più adatto per iniziare la scoperta dei vari stili architettonici presenti a Trieste. Sulla piazza si affacciano il Palazzo del Governo, luccicante nel suo singolare rivestimento a mosaico, il Palazzo Pitteri, di sapore classicheggiante, il

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Churches, temples and synagogues in different styles, present throughout Trieste, are another testament to the city’s multicultural and multi-religious character. The Greek-Orthodox church of San Nicolò, the Serbian-Orthodox church of San Spiridone, the via San Francesco Synagogue, the Evangelical Church in Largo Panfili (Augustan confession), and the San Silvestro Waldensian church (Helvetic confession), are some of the most striking examples. Likewise, Trieste’s culinary traditions are the result of many interactions: Germanic, Austrian, Slavic, Hungarian and Greek influences intermingle in a unique way. Visiting Trieste will enable you to enjoy a trip among different flavours, aromas and colours: From the osmizze of Slovenian tradition, located in the Carso plateaus (private homes open only during short periods where local dishes and wines such as Terrano, Vitovska or Malvasia can be tasted), to the famous Viennese, Habsburg style 19th century caffès, such as Caffè Tommaseo and Caffè San Marco. The latter offer delicious Viennese pastries such as strudels, sacher, presnitz, lutizza, dobos or tigojanci served with a coffee prepared and served in several ways typical to Trieste. Some great writers have emerged from Trieste’s melting pot. By taking a walk through the city streets, one can see places and atmospheres described in the works of authors like Italo Svevo, Scipio Slataper, Umberto Saba, Claudio Magris, Fulvio Tomizza, just to name a few. Irish novelist James Joyce, who lived in the city sporadically from 1904 to 1920, found it to be truly inspirational. He finished writing Dubliners and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man in Trieste and it is also there that he wrote the most significant chapters of his masterpiece Ulysses. A bronze statue of him now stands on the bridge that crosses the Canal Grande. Poet Umberto Saba’s statue, with his legendary pipe, is located at the end of San Nicolò street, not far from his historic bookstore, the Libreria Antiquaria, while novelist Italo Svevo’s statue stands in Piazza Hortiz. Trieste would not be Trieste without the Adriatic Sea. It has been the port for continental Europe for centuries. If one drives or walks along the panoramic road from Sistiana to the city, one can stop at the various lookouts to fully appreciate the beauty of the gulf and the magnificent castles of Duino and of Miramare, which was, for a short time, the residence of Maximilian of Austria and his wife Charlotte of Belgium. The castle of Miramare, the Faro della Vittoria (victory lighthouse) and the Castle of San Giusto, in the centre of the old city, remain the three defining symbols of Trieste. Today, the Barcolana has emerged as a typical trait of the city’s identity. Not to be missed by passionate yachtsmen, this unique sailboat race (held every October) gathers racers from all around Europe. During the famous event, the gulf of Trieste shines with the colours of thousands of sails that are caressed by the fall Bora, Trieste’s famous northeastern wind. (Translation F.S.) 54

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Palazzo Stratti di proprietà delle Assicurazioni Generali, il Palazzo del Municipio ed il Palazzo del Lloyd triestino. La piazza presenta anche due monumenti settecenteschi: la Fontana barocca dei Quattro Continenti (1751) e la colonna con la statua dell’Imperatore Carlo VI (1728). Piazza della Borsa, nell’antico Borgo Teresiano, è un altro luogo dove poter ammirare l’accostamento di edifici in stili diversi. Il carattere multiculturale della città è rappresentato anche dalla presenza di varie comunità religiose e dai loro luoghi di culto edificati rispettando le particolarità del paese e della comunità di provenienza. La chiesa greco-ortodossa di San Nicolò, quella serbo-ortodossa di San Spiridione, la Sinagoga di via San Francesco, la chiesa Evangelica di confessione Augustana in largo Panfili e quella della comunità di confessione elvetica e valdese di San Silvestro consentono di immergersi in realtà dense di storia e tradizioni differenti e meritano una visita attenta. Non meno ricca di intersezioni culturali è la tradizione culinaria di Trieste. Influenze germaniche, austriache, slave, ungheresi e greche raggiugono qui una sintesi unica in Italia. Dalle osmizze dell’altipiano carsico, di tradizione slovena (case private aperte solo durante brevi periodi in cui si possono gustare piatti locali e bere Terrano, Vitovska o Malvasia, tipici vini del Carso), ai famosi caffè cittadini di derivazione asburgica (caffè Tommaseo e caffè San Marco), dove è possibile ritrovare l’atmosfera viennese del XIX secolo, gustarsi strudel, sacher, presnitz, putizza, dobos e rigojanci accompagnati da un caffè preparato in uno dei molti modi in cui vien servito, Trieste rende possibile un vero viaggio tra sapori, aromi e colori. Non sorprende che all’interno di questo “crogiolo di razze” e culture molti grandi scrittori abbiano trovato motivi di ispirazione. Passeggiando per la città si ritrovano infatti atmosfere e luoghi descritti nei loro romanzi da Italo Svevo, Scipio Slataper, Umberto Saba, Claudio Magris, Fulvio Tomizza e altri. Anche James Joyce, che visse a Trieste dal 1904 al 1915 e dal 1919 al 1920, trovò la città luogo di intima e fervida ispirazione. Qui infatti terminò la stesura di Gente di Dublino e di Dedalus, ma scrisse anche i capitoli più significativi dell’Ulisse. Una sua statua in bronzo è ora visibile sul ponte che attraversa il Canal Grande. La statua di Saba, con la sua leggendaria pipa, è posizionata alla fine di via San Nicolò, a pochi passi dalla sua Libreria Antiquaria, mentre quella di Svevo è in Piazza Hortis. Trieste non sarebbe però Trieste senza il mare a cui deve la sua grandezza e prosperità come porto principale della Mitteleuropa. La bellezza del golfo si può ammirare nella stupenda strada panoramica che da Sistiana giunge in città, fermandosi nei numerosi lookout o scendendo nelle piccole e isolate baie e spiagge. Sul golfo si affacciano anche i castelli di Duino e quello più suggestivo di Miramare, dimora, anche se per un breve periodo, di Massimiliano d’Austria e di sua moglie Carlotta del Belgio. Miramare, con il Faro della Vittoria ed il castello di San Giusto, centro dell’antica città, rimangono i simboli riconosciuti di Trieste. A questi si è aggiunta, più recentemente, la Barcolana, importante regata (ogni anno in ottobre) e appuntamento imperdibile per i velisti di tutta Europa. Durante il suo svolgimento, il golfo di Trieste si accende nei colori di migliaia di vele che balbettano nella bora d’autunno.


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Sipping True Brew The coffee industry from Trieste to Canada By Leah Kellar

If you can’t get enough of the finest “Italian caffè”, then a trip to Trieste just might be your cup of…well, espresso!

stablished in the 1700s as Europe’s first coffee cluster, Trieste remains, for many Italian coffee lovers, merchants and connoisseurs, the world’s most important trade centre for coffee. The high concentration of specialized firms working in the business makes it the only city in the world to have a complete supply chain, gravitating around its historic port. Trieste’s unique geographic location near the border of Slovenia and designation as free port in the nineteenth century gave the town a competitive edge that enabled it to dominate the coffee trade in Europe.

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Over the centuries, coffee not only contributed to the economic and cultural growth of Trieste but also became a ubiquitous social ritual in the city, which now stands as a true reference in terms of coffee making. The first coffee shops in Trieste mainly started opening in the second half of the eighteenth century, replicating the fashionable shops already found in Venice and taking on an unmistakable Viennese flair in their interior décor and service to customers. Today, Trieste’s Industrial Coffee District establishes the modern benchmark for what constitutes the best Italian espresso. A 2012 LonelyPlanet.com entry even listed the city of Trieste as the world’s most underrated travel destination. On this side of the pond, finding a good cup of Triestine coffee has become easier than ever over the past few years. Sandy McAlpine, spokesperson for the Coffee Association of Canada, says roasting companies such as Illy and Lavazza, Trieste’s flagship brands, have done disproportionately well in Canada because of the strong presence of Italians on the market and the growing popularity of the beverage among non-Italian drinkers. This global cultural trend is growing in Canada and clearly here to stay. “Thirty years ago, when I was in the business, hot chocolate was more popular. Coffee has really been adapted into the mainstream and become a global subculture. People are intrigued and they’re just in love with the product,” said McAlpine, who likens Italian coffee to cultural dishes like Japanese sushi. “Espressos are now part of the global culture, but do not hold the status of a regular commodity.” And coffee lovers have developed a taste for Trieste blends such as Illy. “Illy caffè is the reference for the excellence and culture of coffee, thanks to the constant innovation and the quality of its products,” says Lindsey Schwartz, spokeswoman for Illy in Canada, adding “With such a large Italian community in Canada, it is quite normal that the tradition of espresso coffee has followed them here.” The authentic Italian caffè feel that began in places such as Trieste can be found in modern caffès in Toronto and Montreal that maintain a traditional Italian atmosphere and service to complement the coffee. “Now with so many caffès popping up, it is hard to compete, but we haven’t gone down the Indie road, which is what a lot of coffee shops are trying to achieve,” said Carolee Tindale, manager of B Espresso Bar in Toronto. “We’re sticking to our roots, and so we don’t offer all of these flavoured coffees.” Meanwhile, Caffè Italia in Montreal has adapted the taste of their unique blend to appeal to a broader clientele. “I’ve been drinking coffee for 45 years; it’s an acquired taste,” says owner Nadia Serri. “Half of the time, most people don’t know how to make an espresso. I won’t say it’s an art, but you have to know what you’re doing.” While Trieste coffee is appreciated in the largest metropolises in Canada, no other place can quite replicate the history, culture, beauty and service of the first caffès in the Port of Trieste. If you want the full and most authentic experience, a trip to this prosperous seaport in the Mediterranean that has established a reputation for, arguably, the finest coffee in the world, is the best place to savour your favourite roast.

Trieste’s main historic caffès Caffè Tommaseo Piazza Tommaseo, 4/c

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Caffè San Marco Via Battisti, 18

Caffè Tergesteo Piazza della Borsa, 15

Caffè degli Specchi Piazza Unità d’Italia, 7

Caffè Stella Polare Via Dante, 14


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FRIULI

Udine

Percorso storico-artistico ed enogastronomico Pericle Camuffo

Piccolo gioiello nel cuore del Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Udine è la porta d’accesso ad una cultura che si esprime attraverso inusuali ed antiche tradizioni che si possono scoprire passeggiando nel suo centro storico, entrando in una tipica osteria o semplicemente ascoltando i suoi abitanti conversare in friulano, non solo dialetto locale di origine neolatina, ma vera e propria lingua, riconosciuta oggi come una delle 12 lingue minoritarie presenti in Italia. La città del Tiepolo Conosciuta come la “Città del Tiepolo”, in quanto qui il grande artista passò un importante periodo della sua vita e raggiunse la sua maturità artistica (i suoi meravigliosi affreschi si possono oggi ammirare nel Palazzo Arcivescovile, nel Duomo, nell’Oratorio della Purità e nella pinacoteca del Castello), Udine conserva altri luoghi di straordinario interesse architettonico e storico. Tra queste, Piazza Libertà, considerata la più bella piazza veneziana di terraferma, con la quattrocentesca Loggia del Lionello, la Loggia di San Giovanni, la Torre dell’Orologio ed il Monumento alla Pace di epoca napoleonica, che è il luogo adatto per iniziare un itinerario ricco di suggestioni storico-artistiche. Dalla piazza, infatti, attraversando l’Arco Bollani si raggiunge facilmente il colle del Castello eretto, secondo le leggende, dai soldati di Attila per consentire al famoso capo degli Unni di osservare Aquileia in fiamme. Alla base del colle si sviluppa l’antica città medievale con la centrale e porticata via Mercato Vecchio, impreziosita da palazzi nobiliari e noto luogo di shopping nei fine settimana. Circa a metà della via si trova il Palazzo del Monte di Pietà con la sua cappella barocca, ed alle sue spalle si apre la Piazza Matteotti, detta anche di San Giacomo per l’omonima chiesa che vi si affaccia. Con al centro una fontana cinquecentesca, opera di Giovanni da Udine, ed avvolta da antichi edifici alcuni dei quali hanno le facciate affrescate, è un luogo magico in ogni momento della giornata. Alla fine di via Mercato Vecchio si apre il quartiere universitario dove si possono ammirare il Palazzo Antonini, disegnato dal Palladio, Palazzo Florio e la casa Trecentesca. Sempre da Piazza Libertà, attraversando via Manin ed una delle più antiche porte della città, si può arrivare in Piazza I Maggio, l’antico “giardino grande” che nei secoli ha ospitato importanti mercati, fiere e spettacoli. Sulla piazza si affaccia il settecentesco santuario di Santa Maria delle Grazie con il suo delizioso chiostro. Udine a tavola: tra frico e vino bianco Lungo questo itinerario, ma un po’ in tutto il centro storico di Udine, è possibile trovare numerose osterie, luoghi adatti per un veloce bicchiere di vino o per una sosta

più lunga, un pranzo o una cena, e mete della gioventù udinese per l’aperitivo serale. In questi tipici localini, oltre all’atmosfera informale ed amichevole, si possono gustare i tesori dell’enogastronomia friulana: i leggendari prosciutti di San Daniele e di Sauris; il salame friulano, prodotto con carne miscelata con lardo e spezie; il frico, tortino di formaggio preparato anche con patate, mele o erbe aromatiche; il musetto, insaccato simile al cotechino nella cui preparazione vengono utilizzate anche parti del muso del maiale e da qui il suo nome, abbinato alla brovada, contorno di rape lasciate fermentare con vinaccia di uve rosse per un paio di mesi e poi tagliate e cotte; il Montasio o altri formaggi delle malghe carniche. Il tutto, naturalmente, accompagnato da importanti vini della zona e seguito da gustose grappe, spesso realizzate in casa o con procedimenti e ricette di antica tradizione. Non sorprende, dunque, che una della manifestazioni di maggior richiamo a Udine sia centrata proprio sull’aspetto enogastronomico. Ogni anno, a metà settembre, ha luogo infatti “Friuli DOC” (quest’anno festeggerà la sua XX edizione) che in quattro giornate presenta un programma estremamente ricco di sapori, spettacoli, musica ed altri eventi culturali. L’intenzione principale degli organizzatori è di creare un percorso di scoperta o di ri-scoperta dei prodotti e dei piatti della tradizione friulana. Gli stand sparpagliati nelle vie e nelle piazze del centro, aperti dalla mattina a notte inoltrata, vengono visitati da decine di migliaia di persone ogni giorno ed anche nelle osterie e nei ristoranti che aderiscono all’iniziativa si fatica a trovare un tavolo libero. “Friuli DOC” è però principalmente la festa del vino. I vigneti del Friuli Venezia Giulia producono quasi 100 milioni di bottiglie l’anno ed i bianchi friulani sono considerati tra i migliori al mondo. Tra questi, il Ramandolo ed il Picolit hanno ottenuto lo status di Denominazione d’origine Controllata e Garantita, che ne evidenzia e certifica la loro eccellenza. Circondata dalle colline, non distante dal mare e dalle montagne, vicina ad Austria e Slovenia, Udine è oggi una città gradevolmente vivibile, nella quale le antiche tradizioni sopravvivono ma vengono costantemente aggiornate e riproposte, cosi da renderle parte integrante ed attiva di un percorso di crescita culturale e sociale. PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

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Gorizia

Un tranquillo e sereno mosaico culturale Annamaria Brondani Menghini

Città secolare al confine con la Slovenia, Gorizia è sempre stata la culla di popolazioni, lingue, etnie e religioni diverse. Capoluogo dell'omonima provincia nel Friuli Venezia Giulia, Gorizia, Gorica, Gorz o Guriza, si adagia in pianura lungo le sponde dell’Isonzo, incorniciata dall’altopiano di Tarnova e dalle ultime propaggini delle Alpi Giulie. Partiamo alla scoperta di questo piccolo gioiello italo-sloveno-tedesco-friulano.

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FRIULI in parte il dramma degli esuli italiani dall’Istria, Fiume e dalla Dalmazia, costretti a lasciare i propri beni in terra diventata straniera. Il confine territoriale tra Italia e Slovenia, istituito nel 1947, è rimasto attivo fino al 2004. Al giorno d’oggi, se esso non esiste più come valico fisico-politico tra due Stati, in forza della loro autonoma appartenenza all’Unione Europea, non si può dire tuttavia che sia stato superato come confine mentale. L’effettiva integrazione tra le due popolazioni rimane ancora difficile anche se molti passi avanti sono stati compiuti ad opera delle rispettive amministrazioni locali.

Un pò di storia Le origini di Gorizia risalgono al 1001, anno nel quale fu nominata per la prima volta in un diploma di donazione al Patriarca di Aquileia Giovanni, redatto a Ravenna dall’imperatore Ottone III. Interessante è anche notare che il toponimo “Gorizia” deriva dallo sloveno gora/collina, gorica/piccola collina, ad indicare la collina su cui svetta il castello medievale, più volte distrutto e ricostruito, seguendo le vicissitudini della città. Fu attorno ad esso che nei secoli si sviluppò la città con i suoi borghi storici, da Borgo Castello a Borgo San Rocco. Ricca di case, vigneti, campi, prati, pascoli, torrenti e fiumi, l’area di Gorizia ha favorito la costituzione della Contea di Gorizia e Gradisca, attiva fino al 1500, e la successiva inclusione nell’Impero Austro-Ungarico, fino al 1918. Dalla sua nascita Gorizia percorse dunque una lunga storia, caratterizzata da nove secoli di presenza tedesca al governo della città: prima i Conti di Gorizia, poi la Casa degli Asburgo. Solo negli ultimi novant’anni, con l’annessione all’Italia, dopo la fine della Prima Guerra Mondiale, Gorizia entrò a far parte di un nuovo Stato, l’Italia, con un’impostazione amministrativa e culturale molto diversa rispetto al suo consolidato passato. Purtroppo, gli avvenimenti del Novecento sono stati una catastrofe abbattutasi su Gorizia. Le due guerre mondiali l’hanno coinvolta in tragiche vicende come le dodici battaglie sull’Isonzo, nella Prima Guerra Mondiale, o la guerra partigiana nella Seconda Guerra Mondiale, con il doloroso epilogo dell’occupazione dell’armata jugoslava e delle foibe. Il successivo Trattato di Pace del 1947, comportò la perdita di tutto il proprio retroterra, assegnato dagli Alleati anglo-americani alla Jugoslavia. Gorizia assorbì poi

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L’identità linguistica Il censimento in riferimento alla lingua parlata sotto il Governo Austriaco all’inizio del Novecento rivelava proporzioni linguistiche molto diverse da oggi. Nel 1910, il 25% della popolazione parlava tedesco, il 19% l’ungherese, il 17% il ceco, il moravo o lo slovacco, il 10% il polacco, il 10% il croato, il serbo o il bosniaco, l’8% il ruteno, il 7% il rumeno, il 3% lo sloveno e solo l’1% l’italiano e il ladino. Attualmente la grande maggioranza dei poco più di 35.000 abitanti di Gorizia parla italiano e il tedesco è quasi completamente scomparso. Pochi goriziani conoscono e praticano ancora lo sloveno, mentre la gran parte dei 32.000 abitanti di Nova Gorica, la sua controparte slovena, conosce bene l’italiano. Girare la città e dintorni Nonostante Gorizia sia stata parte di una storia così complessa, nella sua discreta eleganza non offre al turista significativi monumenti artistici, se non quelli eretti a seguito delle vicende che seguirono i due conflitti mondiali. Eppure la città è ricca di parchi e di ville nobiliari perché era considerata la Nizza austriaca dai Tedeschi che, in particolare nell’Ottocento, vi vennero ad edificare le loro seconde sontuose e lussuose residenze nobiliari. Ma il vero senso della bellezza di Gorizia sta nella relazione che essa offre con il suo circondario, da Oslavia a San Floriano al Calvario, da Nova Gorica alle alture prospicienti il Collio italiano e sloveno, al sinuoso ed affascinante corso del fiume Isonzo. Nei pressi dell’isola della Cona, dove il fiume si immerge nel mare, si trova un’ oasi faunistica di immensa suggestione, inserita all’interno della Riserva Naturale Regionale della Foce dell’Isonzo. In inverno e durante la migrazione primaverile, migliaia di uccelli migratori vi si rifugiano a svernare, tra panorami mozzafiato sul golfo di Trieste e scenografiche piste ciclabili. Sono proprio queste sue caratteristiche a conferire a Gorizia il vantaggio di offrirsi al turista con l’accoglienza dei suoi spazi verdi, dei suoi viali alberati e fioriti, con la sua atmosfera tersa, tranquilla e serena, con l’ulteriore beneficio di poter essere percorsa tutta a piedi o in bicicletta con comode pedalate.

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FRIULI

Aquileia By Pericle Camuffo

The second Rome, visited by emperors and popes Located at the southern border of the Po River Valley and at the entrance of the Grado lagoon, Aquileia is one of the most significant archeological sites in Italy. In 1998, UNESCO declared it a World Heritage site for its historic importance as a Roman city and for the fundamental role it played in the expansion of Christianity in central Europe.

From ancient Roman colony to bishop’s residence The Romans founded the colony of Aquileia in 181 B.C. on a site already settled by Celts and Gauls. To counter the arrival and the settlement of about 12,000 persons originating from the Danube region, the Roman Senate decided to send a first contingent of 3,000 families of settlers to protect its Eastern border. The Latin colony prevented invasions and became the starting point for new Roman conquest and expeditions in what are today the regions of Carinthia and Southern Germany. In 89 B.C., Aquileia grew to the rank of municipium, marking the city’s importance and definitive development. Emperor Julius Caesar and Octavianus Augustus successively stayed there and, in 32 B.C., the latter proclaimed it capital of the X Regio

Venetia et Histria. At the time, Aquileia’s population reached a peak of 120,000 residents. One of the most important fluvial ports of the Western Empire, the city became the main trading link between the Danube region and the Adriatic Sea. Within its walls, skills in shaping marble, terracotta and the production of building materials as well as glass crafts flourished. Jupiter’s temple and the forum that overlooked the Capitol were at the centre of a bustling social life, whereas the main entertainment places were the circus and the public baths. For over three centuries, Aquileia remained a prosperous and culturally vibrant centre. During this period, Aquileia also turned into a major religious reference point, the meeting point of spiritual influences originating from the Middle East, Alexandria

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FRIULI in Egypt, and Northern Europe. In the third century, Aquileia became a bishopric and at the beginning of the fourth century, bishop Theodorus ordered the construction of the first cathedral. Traces of the original building can still be seen inside the Romanesque Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, built between 1021-1031 by patriarch Poppone. The church was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1348. A unique archeological reserve Aquileia’s political, religious and economic importance came to an end as a result of the repeated barbarian invasions that began in the fifth century. Attila’s Huns completely destroyed the city in 452, forcing the clergy and the remaining survivors to flee to Grado and nearby islands along the coast. The past glory of the city is still visible today. The National Archeological Museum, which opened its doors in 1882, keeps extraordinary artifacts dating from the second century B.C. to the fourth century A.D. The floor mosaics in the Lapidarius outside the museum and the ones inside the cathedral are particularly valuable. The remains of the fluvial port, the forum, the sepulchres and the dwellings of well-to-do Roman patricians complete the archeological itinerary. Aquileia is nowadays an international centre for the study and the history of mosaic art. During their visits, Pope John Paul II’s in 1992, and Benedict XVI’s in May 2011, both recalled the town’s ancient history and its role as a beacon of Christianity. Their words have prompted the arrival at Aquileia of throngs of tourists and pilgrims. Commemorating Aquileia’s Roman past Celebrating traditions, history and culture, Tempora Aquileia and A tavola con gli antichi romani (Eating with Ancient Romans) are two interesting yearly events that take place in Aquileia during the summer months. Started in 1988, A tavola con gli antichi romani aims to rediscover local culinary traditions, which mainly hail from the Roman culture. Several events are organised in restaurants of Aquileia and other neighbouring towns like Palmanova, Torviscosa and Grado. Each menu carefully follows recipes found in Apicius’ De Re Coquinaria, a classic work of ancient Roman gastronomy, paired with wines from local producers. During the evening, waiters dressed as Romans serve patrons and the settings include flowers, drapes, music and oil lanterns – contributing to the full immersion in an ancient Roman atmosphere. Tempora Aquileia is essentially a historical commemoration of Roman Aquileia. During two to three days, around the end of May, the town recreates the lifestyle as it was during Roman times, with a military camp, a market, sketches of daily life, jousts, banquets and dances. The event is attended by tourists and by people from across the region. Aquileia is easily reached by car through the Palmanova highway, from the Trieste airport or by bus. A bicycle path connecting Grado to Aquileia was recently opened. Stretching along the lagoon, it constitutes one of the touristic highlights of the region.

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FRIULI

Grado

Pericle Camuffo

L’isola del sole tra Venezia e Trieste Nota come “L’isola del sole”, per le sue spiagge esposte a sud ed abbondantemente soleggiate, Grado è oggi una moderna località turistica dell’alto Adriatico.

ituata tra Trieste e Venezia, riceve più di un milione di visitatori l’anno, la maggior parte durante i mesi estivi, ai quali offre, mare pulito, strutture alberghiere, servizi di ristorazione e stabilimenti balneari di profilo internazionale, attività culturali di alto livello, rievocazioni storiche, svago, riposo, divertimento. Tutto questo però, a differenza delle aree balneari di più recente creazione, si è innestato ed è cresciuto all’interno di una tradizione millenaria. Grado, infatti, ha svolto un ruolo fondamentale nelle vicende storiche, politiche e religiose della regione costiera fin dall’epoca romana. Inserita, con funzione di scalo merci (gradus, termine latino a cui deve il suo nome), nel sistema

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portuale di Aquileia già nel II e III secolo, diventerà rifugio degli aquileiesi durante le invasioni barbariche e baluardo dell’autorità imperiale nell’Adriatico settentrionale dopo la distruzione di Aquileia, da parte degli Unni di Attila nel 452. In seguito all’invasione longobarda del Friuli, fu sede del Vescovo aquileiese che vi si stabilì permanentemente dal 568 dando inizio al periodo di massimo splendore dell’isola. Le testimonianze più significative di tale rinascita architettonica si affacciano su Campo dei Patriarchi, da sempre il cuore della vita religiosa della comunità gradese: l’imponente Duomo dedicato a Santa Eufemia, la Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie e l’austero Battistero a pianta ottagonale.


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FRIULI

La crescita continua di strutture ricettive e di collegamenti con la terra ferma potenzia la fama di Grado come luogo di vacanza e richiama sull’isola intellettuali ed artisti di fama internazionale: da Ippolito Nievo a Scipio Slataper, da Pirandello a Freud a Pasolini.

per una cena in uno dei ristoranti situati a ridosso della vecchia cinta muraria, spesso ci si dimentica di tutto questo suo passato. Ma è sufficiente ritagliarsi uno spazio di silenzio, anche interiore, magari fermandosi sulla diga che si apre sul golfo di Trieste con a levante il Carso e la costa istriana ed a ponente le vette delle Alpi, o regalarsi una gita nell’immobilità della laguna dove acqua, terra e luce dialogano costantemente, per capire fino in fondo la realtà dell’isola, il suo pulsare lento, la sua storia, la sua sofferenza, il suo splendore. Biagio Marin, il poeta che nel dialetto gradese è stato il cantore di Grado, ha definito questa situazione d’anima “il non-tempo del mare”. Il legame profondo che unisce i gradesi alla loro storia è ben rappresentato nel perdòn de Barbana, la manifestazione religiosa più significativa e partecipata di Grado. Ogni anno, la prima domenica di luglio, una suggestiva processione su barche trasporta i gradesi al santuario dell’isoletta di Barbana, l’unico rimasto intatto delle molte chiese lagunari presenti fin dall’epoca romana, a sciogliere un voto contratto nel 1237 quando, alla Madonna del santuario, era stata chiesta protezione da una devastante pestilenza. Ma tracce del passato del piccolo villaggio di pescatori che Grado è stata per molti secoli, sono presenti anche nella tradizione gastronomica gradese. Se i ristoranti propongono sempre più spesso delle variazioni fantasiose della tradizione locale, con rimandi alla cucina internazionale, il pesce azzurro preparato alla piastra, al forno o fritto rimane un elemento essenziale. La semplicità della povera gente di mare prevale anche nel piatto gradese per eccellenza, il Boreto. Nato in tempi antichissimi nelle capanne di canne e fango dei pescatori di laguna, i casoni, viene preparato con il pesce meno pregiato, quello che non veniva venduto al mercato dell’isola ma tenuto per la propria famiglia, olio di semi, aglio, aceto e pepe. Accompagnato con polenta bianca ed un robusto vino rosso, è un piatto che nessun turista dimentica di assaggiare almeno una volta.

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La fioritura monumentale, sociale e religiosa di Grado inizia a decadere con l’ascesa di Venezia. Verso la metà del XII secolo il Patriarcato di Grado si trasferisce stabilmente nella città di San Marco e nel 1451 viene definitivamente soppresso. A questo punto il declino di Grado è completo: epidemie, miseria, incursioni dei pirati e la costante minaccia del mare che erode i confini dell’isola mettono in serio pericolo l’esistenza degli abitanti, che nel XVI secolo si riducono a poco più di 1300. Dopo le brevi occupazioni dei francesi e degli inglesi, le cose iniziano a migliorare con l’inserimento di Grado, dal 1815, all’interno dei domini dell’Impero austro-ungarico. Gli Asburgo fanno dell’isola la spiaggia di moda dell’aristocrazia austriaca, dando inizio e sviluppo all’attività turistica. La crescita continua di strutture ricettive e di collegamenti con la terra ferma potenzia la fama di Grado come luogo di vacanza e richiama sull’isola intellettuali ed artisti di fama internazionale: da Ippolito Nievo a Scipio Slataper, da Pirandello a Freud a Pasolini. Nel 1936, con la costruzione del ponte girevole, viene completato, dopo venti secoli di isolamento, il collegamento con la bassa friulana. Negli anni Cinquanta viene terminata anche la strada che collega l’isola a Monfalcone e Trieste: Grado finalmente si apre alla modernità. Passeggiando tra le strette calli del centro storico, fermandosi per un aperitivo o

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FRIULI

10 Flavourful FriuliVenezia Giulia Dishes By Amanda Fulginiti

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The region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia offers a feast of surprises. This true gastronomic goldmine nestled in northeastern Italy is separated into four provinces: Pordenone in the west, Udine covering the centre, and Gorizia and Trieste to the east. Though the province of Trieste is the smallest in the region, it serves as the capital. long with Italian, much of the population of this region speaks a local language called Friulian, and because of the close proximity to countries such as Slovenia and Austria, both Slovene and German are also frequently spoken. This diversity in culture is naturally reflected in their cuisine and is quite distinct from the rest of Italy. After years under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many parts of this region boast hearty cabbage soups and wonderfully delicious and delicate pastries. Many do not know that San Daniele ham and the world-renowned Illy coffee empire originated here. Check out this list of 10 dishes that display the variety of flavours and aromas to be found:

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1. Jota (pronounced yota) Bean soup with sauerkraut typically served as an antipasto. An interesting flavour contrast between the sweetness of the beans and the sourness of the cabbage.

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2. Brovada Pickled turnips. A true specialty of Friuli, used to accompany roast or boiled meats. It is made by cutting turnips into small slices (like sauerkraut) and slow cooking them in a pan with olive oil, bay leaves, and often a piece of pork.


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FRIULI 4. Polenta concia In this region, polenta is cooked by adding cheese; typically Montasio and Carnia. This is served alongside many second dishes.

3. Frico Simply put, it’s cooked cheese. Typically an antipasto, consisting of a wafer of shredded cheese with a bit of flour, baked or fried until crisp. The cheese most typically used comes from the region: Montasio (a creamy, unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese. The more it ages, the drier and more granular the cheese).

6. Boreto a la graisana A tasty white fish soup (fish used are typically mullet, bream, flounder, etc). As a first plate it is only a broth, but as a second it includes the fish. Once a poor man’s dish, it is cooked in a cast iron pot with a little sunflower oil, whole garlic cloves and fish flavoured with white vinegar and black pepper.

5. Cjarsons Ravioli made with a potato, cinnamon, raison and fine herb stuffing. This is a local specialty of Carnia, a region belonging to Udine. It is a sweet and savory mix that is particularly enhanced by added herbs that grow wild in Carnia.

8. Fagiano ripieno Stuffed pheasant is one of many stuffed birds enjoyed as a second course; recipes usually include locally produced grappa.

7. Lasagne ai semi di papavero In Trieste, lasagna is kept simple and sprinkled with a special sauce made with butter, sugar and poppy seeds.

9. Strucolo This is the region’s take on the Austrian strudel. It features a thin layer of dough rolled around a filling. Some strucoli are sweet while others savory, and some are baked, while others are boiled.

10. Gubana/Putizza e Presnitz Sweets are abundant in this region. Firstly gubana, “guba” meaning “piega” (to fold) in Italian, is a very traditional pastry that somewhat resembles a strudel, and generally comes with a minced apple filling and grappa. Whereas presnitz is a puff pastry rolled up with a filling of walnuts, almonds, pine nuts, figs, prunes, apricots, raisins, grated chocolate, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and rum. Legend has it that a baker of Trieste invented this wonderful cake in honour of Princess Sissi of Austria. This particular cake is especially enjoyed during Christmastime.

Wines & spirits Friuli-Venezia Giulia wines are mostly white and remarkable for the number of grape varieties that are used in their blends, like Refosco, Terrano, Malvasia, Tocai and Rebula. Wine here is made using mostly non-traditional grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Bianco, but also some quintessentially Italian grapes such as Pinot Grigio and the region’s own Picolit, an extraordinary sweet wine that dates back to the 1700s. Typically their wines are fresh and fruity in style. Friuli’s signature white grape Friulano is a classic example of these refreshing wines.

The region also produces some of Italy’s most popular grappa, distilled from the skins, seeds, and stems of many types of grapes left over after wine making. Commercial production began in Bassano del Grappa in the 18th century and was considered a rough drink. Today many Italians, especially in the northeast, finish off most meals with a glass of carefully selected smooth, single grape distilled grappa. To be considered a Grappa D.O.C, it must be produced in the Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, or Trentino Alto Adige. Excellent distillations are produced in other areas, but they must be labeled “acqua vite,” and not “grappa”.

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I grandi vini bianchi del Friuli Gaia Massai

“Vin e amîs, un paradîs” (Aver vino ed amici è un paradiso) – proverbio friulano Il Friuli Venezia Giulia (più comunemente chiamato Friuli) è una regione molto particolare nel panorama italiano in quanto crocevia tra la cultura slava, austriaca, tedesca e il resto dell’Italia. La storia cosmopolita del Friuli si riflette anche nella produzione vitivinicola che presenta un incredibile assortimento di vitigni autoctoni ed importati.

on solo il 2% dei vini prodotti in Italia annualmente, il Friuli è comunque considerato il luogo di nascita di alcuni dei migliori vini bianchi del Belpaese. Una situazione dovuta alla scelta da parte di molti produttori di puntare sulla qualità più che sulla quantità, mantenendo una bassa resa di uva ad ettaro, in particolare nelle otto zone Doc (e una sola Docg) situate per lo più nella parte meridionale della regione. Ma anche grazie a una nuova tecnica di vinificazione, sviluppata negli anni ’60, che prevede un processo fermentativo del mosto senza le bucce che produce un vino più fresco, chiaro e pulito e, cosa più importante, che non si ossida rapidamente.

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Collio Goriziano & Colli Orientali del Friuli Le due Doc friulane più rinomate sono indubbiamente il Collio Goriziano Doc (o semplicemente Collio Doc) e i Colli Orientali del Friuli Doc. Due zone geograficamente privilegiate per la produzione di vini bianchi grazie al loro microclima temperato e un suolo di natura argillosa mista ad arenarie. Tra i vitigni più conosciuti e apprezzati in questa zona si trova il Tocai Friulano (che non ha nulla a che fare con i quasi omonimi d’Alsazia e d’Ungheria), ormai chiamato solo “Friulano” dopo il decreto UE del 2007. Dal Friulano si producono vini eleganti e ricchi, dal caratteristico retrogusto di mandorla amara. Altre varietà autoctone della zona sono la fragrante Ribolla Gialla e la Malvasia Istriana che, grazie al sapore lievemente metallico, si abbina egregiamente alle tipiche ricette marinare adriatiche. Ritroviamo anche il lieve e delicato Verduzzo e il Picolit, che prende il nome dalla dimensione e resa ridotta dei suoi grappoli, e da cui si produce il famoso vino da dessert Ramandolo, unica Docg del Friuli dal 2001. Inoltre, molti vitigni a bacca bianca importati danno risultati eccellenti nel Collio, sia come blend che vinificati singolarmente: Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon e Chardonnay, solo per citarne alcuni.

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Friuli Isonzo Doc, Friuli Grave Doc & Carso Doc Altre zone vinicole interessanti del Friuli sono il Friuli Isonzo Doc, il Friuli Grave Doc e il Carso Doc. I vigneti dell’Isonzo Doc si trovano nelle pianure alluvionali create dall’omonimo fiume, innestati in terreni ricchi e profondi ideali per il Sauvignon, il Chardonnay e il Pinot Bianco (anche prodotto in versione frizzante e semi-frizzante), così come per vitigni aromatici d’oltralpe come il Gewurtztraminer, il Riesling e il Welschriesling. Spostandoci a nord-ovest troviamo il Friuli Grave Doc, la più estesa zona vinicola della regione. Anche qui il terreno è di origine alluvionale e il clima è protetto dalla catena alpina a nord e mitigato dal mare a sud, come per altre zone vinicole del Friuli. Qui però è interessante notare che il terreno, caratterizzato da un’ ampia superficie sassosa, esalta l'escursione termica tra il giorno e la notte favorendo così qualità di uva con una spiccata aromaticità, che risultano in vini profumati ed eleganti. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay e Riesling sono tra i vitigni a bacca bianca più utilizzati nella zona. Infine ricordiamo l’area del Carso Doc situata all’estremità sud-orientale della regione lungo la penisola istriana; famosa per i suoi vini bianchi di Malvasia Istriana, Traminer e Vitovska, di chiare origini slave. Produttori del Collio Doc e Colli Orientali del Friuli Doc presenti in Ontario e nel Québec : Livio Felluga e i pionieri Gravner e Jermann. Produttori friulani degni di nota : Plozner *Grave Doc), Borgo San Daniele (Isonzo Doc), Castelvecchio (Carso Doc)


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Spilimbergo’s Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli By Stephanie Grella

From Antiquity to the 21st century, the art of mosaic has experienced a stylistic evolution that continues to bolster the self-expression and creativity of contemporary artists. Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli in the town of Spilimbergo has consistently made an impact on the continuation of traditional mosaic techniques while paving the way for contemporary innovations. Lodovico Zanini was a teacher, writer and Friulian delegate of Società Umanitaria in Milan who first came up with the idea of a school dedicated to training students in mosaic art. In 1922, Ezio Cantarutti, the mayor of Spilimbergo, managed to turn Zanini’s idea into a reality. Since its inaugural year, La Scuola Mosaicisti explores the Italian history of mosaics while experimenting with international influences. One of the school’s biggest successes is Giovanni Gerometta, who shortly after graduating in the 1950s was asked to bring his artistic talent to Canada. A native from the province of Udine, Gerometta has spent more than 50 years studying and producing mosaic artwork. His creations are now displayed in public and private collections throughout Canada, the United States, and Europe. Crafting a distinctive style was very important for him. “When I [make mosaics] for myself, I use mostly geese,” says Gerometta. “I live close to a river, so I get inspired by the Canadian geese when they migrate back.” He also produces still life, nature scenes and portraits that usually include clear geometric forms and intriguing movements of colour, which can be admired and purchased at the Galerie d’art Mont-Sainte-Anne, near Québec city. “Mosaic never really died out, but it seemed to be confined to Italy for a while,” says Sheila Campbell, a retired professor and current mosaic researcher at the University of Toronto. “Now there’s been a burgeoning interest in mosaic art internationally, and many of those people are trained in Spilimbergo.” In 1933, a team of artists from La Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli even crafted the mosaic dome of the Royal Ontario Museum’s (ROM) ceremonial entrance hall in Toronto. “The range is absolutely mind-boggling,” reveals Campbell. Curating the ROM 2003 mosaic exhibition “The New Mosaic: Selections from Friuli, Italy,” she ven-

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tured to La Scuola Mosaicisti herself to handpick the artwork that would adorn the halls. “I had a call on that Tuesday and was asked, ‘Would you be free to leave on Saturday for Venice?’ I flew to Italy on Saturday. On Monday, we did all of the selection, and on Tuesday, we flew home,” says Campbell. Although it was a brief visit, Campbell fondly remembers the captivating pieces that were produced at La Scuola Mosaicisti as well as the artists themselves, relishing in the freedom of self-expression. “The students were doing self-portraits and a wonderful range of things,” says Campbell. “There was no difficulty in finding more than enough material for the exhibition.” Campbell recalls the audiences’ reactions at the 2003 mosaic exhibition. She still reminiscences their utter fascination with the Italian-made mosaics. “It was wonderful to watch people come into the show looking grumpy from the February weather and see how their faces would just light up from the colour and imagery of the art. That’s a marvelous transition.” Maplestone Gallery owner and curator Suzanne Steeves sees expressions like these every day when she opens the doors to her art gallery, the only one of its kind in Canada that specializes in mosaic art. “Looking at mosaics in slides does not have the same impact as seeing them first-hand, and no photograph ever does them justice,” says Campbell. “The light is constantly changing as the light in the room changes; it’s almost as if they’re alive. Paint absorbs light, but a mosaic reflects light”. Scuola Mosaicisti del Friuli: www.scuolamosaicistifriuli.it maplestonegallery: www.maplestonegallery.com

See video of “Giovanni the Mosaicist” online at panoramitalia.com

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Ottavio Missoni

Famous Brands and Personalities From Friuli Venezia Giulia A salute to some of the region’s beloved personalities and products By Stephanie Grella

From modern literary figures and international fashion icons to Renaissance revolutionaries and leading cinematic artists, Friuli has bred trailblazers who have cultivated industry-leading innovations. Here are a few. Ermes di Colorêt: Born in Colloredo di Monte Albano in Friuli-Venezia Giulia during the Thirty Years’ War, Ermes di Colorêt (or Ermes di Colloredo) served as an imperial officer in the service of Emperor Ferdinand III of Hapsburg. During his time, Colorêt also served the Grand Duke of Tuscany as well as the Holy Roman Emperor before returning to the province of Udine to concentrate on writing poetry. During the latter part of his life, Colorêt wrote over 200 sonnets in Friulian and Italian, using the koinè, which would later become the most popular literary language as well as the basis for the Friulian dialect today. Giovanni da Udine: As a result of studying under Raphael, Giovanni da Udine became a specialist in fresco painting and one of the most revolutionary sculptors of the Renaissance. While exploring underground tunnels and caves in Rome, da Udine and Raphael found the Domus Aurea (a large villa in Rome built between 64-68 AD) and discovered roman stucco, a technique used by the ancient Romans to reproduce a marble effect. After this discovery, da Udine moved to Florence and began painting frescoes and creating stucco decoration for artworks including La Sagrestia Nuova in Basilica di San Lorenzo as well as Rome’s Villa Madama, both pieces that continue to be admired by art historians today. Italo Svevo: Italo Svevo was the pen name of Ettore Schmitz, a businessman from Trieste, who wrote short stories, plays and novels, but his breakthrough came as a result of La Coscienza di Zeno (Zeno’s Conscience). The 1923 novel about a neurotic businessman who writes out his confessions was initially ignored by many Italian literary critics. However, once published in Paris with the help of Svevo’s friend James Joyce, La Coscienza di Zeno was acclaimed across Italy and France. Svevo’s novel is now celebrated as a seminal work of modernist literature. La Sedon Salvadie: Founded in 1982, la Sedon Salvadie is an eclectic group with instruments ranging from bagpipes, fiddles, accordion, guitar, and bass. Arguably the top folk band in Friuli and one of the best in Italy, la Sedon Salvadie has toured througout the world and performed on radio and television shows in Europe and North America. In a region where diverse ethnicities have congregated for many centuries, Friuli welcomes folk music that bridges a wide range of cultures through folk bands and artists. 68

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Modiano playing cards: Italian playing cards first appeared in the late 14th century when each region in Italy was an autonomous province. Just as each region had its own dialect, its playing cards distinguished themselves from the rest of the nation. Although used worldwide, Modiano is a Triestan tradition with its roots running deep in the cartography business. Founded by S.D. Modiano in the 19th century, Modiano cards are distinguished by their style, colour, and quality. Today, Modiano has maintained a reputation of Italian tradition and lasting innovation.

Ottavio Missoni: Born in what is now Dubrovnik, Croatia, Ottavio Missoni competed in the Olympics as a professional hurdler before beginning his fashion line in Trieste in 1958. Success from Missoni’s line of Venjulia tracksuits led the designer back to the Olympic games in 1948, where the Italian Olympic team wore Missoni’s collection. In 1958, the first Missoni-labelled collection was offered in one of Milan’s most popular clothing stores, La Rinascente, propelling the line’s exposure until it was featured in Vogue Italia during the 1980s. Ottavio Missoni died in 2013, but more than 60 years after the clothing line’s founding, the Missoni name continues to set trends on the runway. Pier Paolo Pasolini: Pasolini, inspired by the panoramic landscapes of Casarsa in the province of Pordenone, began writing poetry at the age of seven. Later on, while his high-school classmates and friends joined the school football team, Pasolini established his own group dedicated to literary discussions. After publishing several poetry collections, Pasolini went on to direct legendary films throughout the ’60s that depicted the neorealistic movement of the 20th century. Some of Pasolini’s most legendary films include Mamma Roma and Il Fiore delle mille e una notte, which was released in English as Arabian Nights.


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La memoria e il divenire dell’immigrazione al Centro di Cultura Canadese dell’Università di Udine Alessandra Ferraro

Dagli apporti dell’immigrazione italiana in Québec e in Canada intesi come una riscrittura dell’esperienza pregressa nel nuovo contesto geografico, al mosaico considerato sia come metafora della società canadese che come contributo artistico dell’immigrazione friulana, fino all’autotraduzione che da esperienza quotidiana di ogni emigrato a Montréal e Toronto diventa pratica letteraria precipua della scrittura migrante : sono queste alcune delle linee di ricerca che hanno contraddistinto l’attività del Centro di Cultura Canadese fin dalla sua creazione, nel 1997. Studiare il fenomeno migratorio Friulano Animato da un gruppo di studiosi della letteratura quebecchese e canadese anglofona e presieduto successivamente da Valerio Bruni, Alessandra Ferraro e Anna Pia De Luca, il Centro ha trovato il suo collante nell’interesse condiviso dei suoi aderenti nei confronti del fenomeno migratorio che ha interessato in modo particolare il Friuli Venezia-Giulia. Di questo interesse sono testimonianza i volumi pubblicati nella “Collana di studi del Centro di Cultura Canadese / Center of Canadian Culture Series / Études du Centre de Civilisation Canadienne” che accolgono gli atti dei convegni organizzati, ma anche traduzioni di saggi dedicati ad autori e correnti di pensiero di particolare rilevanza in Canada e in Québec come, ad esempio, il filone della traduzione femminista foriero di radicali innovazioni nell’ambito degli studi sulla traduzione. Al racconto cinematografico dell’emigrazione nelle Americhe sarà invece consacrato il prossimo convegno che si terrà a Udine dall’8 al 10 ottobre 2014 e che permetterà al pubblico italiano di assistere alla proiezione di piccoli capolavori di questo filone narrativo. L’iniziativa, dal titolo suggestivo “Ascoltami con gli occhi. Scritture migranti e cinema nelle Americhe,” si propone come un ulteriore tassello dell’indagine sui vari aspetti del fenomeno migratorio condotta dagli studiosi udinesi a cui si affiancheranno Filippo Salvatore, Paul Tana e Anita Aloisio.

La Biblioteca internazionale dell’Università di Udine (Italians in the World Library) Archivio multimediale di esperienze, di percorsi, di vite e di opere, la Biblioteca internazionale dell’Università di Udine, Bibliothèque des Italiens dans le monde, Italians in the World Library, raccogliendo il patrimonio dell’emigrazione, diventerà quindi un luogo di memoria, spazio reale e simbolico per ricordare un movimento che ha segnato prepotentemente la storia della regione e dell’Italia tutta e che si configura come uno dei principali fatti storici della nostra epoca.

Transcultura, nomadicità e translinguismo In “Itinerranze e transcodificazioni. Scrittori migranti dal Friuli Venezia Giulia al Canada (2008)” l’équipe udinese, diretta da Alessandra Ferraro e Anna Pia De Luca, ha riscoperto e valorizzato le radici regionali di Mario Duliani, Philippe Poloni e di Genni Gunn e ha sottoposto ad un’analisi approfondita la produzione artistica e letteraria di scrittrici quali, ad esempio, Dore Michelut, Bianca Zagolin o Caterina Edwards. L’esperienza migratoria è stata per tali autori e autrici un serbatoio al quale hanno attinto per produrre opere innovative che intersecano lingue, culture e origini diverse nell’elaborazione di una nuova identità. Lo studio delle creazioni artistiche e dei percorsi biografici degli emigranti friulani e italiani ha consentito, quindi, di considerare gli esiti letterari e artistici dell’emigrazione inserendoli nello sfondo più ampio della transcultura, della nomadicità e del translinguismo, concetti chiave della cultura contemporanea. Sede internazionale della riflessione sull’immigrazione Nel corso degli anni il Centro si è affermato come una sede internazionale della riflessione sull’immigrazione, di incontro e di discussione tra scrittori, intellettuali e critici europei e canadesi che hanno partecipato ai numerosi convegni, tavole rotonde, conferenze organizzati e documentati nel sito del Centro che ha anche una pagina su Facebook (ccc.uniud.it/ it-it.facebook.com/centrodiculturacanadese). Dell’importanza di quest’asse di ricerca è persuaso il neoeletto Rettore dell’Ateneo udinese che tra i progetti del suo mandato ha quello di realizzare un grande complesso culturale nel cuore della città di Udine che possa accogliere, attorno al patrimonio librario presente, la memoria dell’emigrazione friulana e italiana. Dotata di spazi di incontri e di proiezione, la Biblioteca internazionale dell’Università di Udine non avrà quindi soltanto il compito di conservare le tracce di un fenomeno che ha interessato milioni di italiani e i loro discendenti, ma si presenterà come la sede ideale per studiare e elaborare i nuovi paradigmi di pensiero nati nell’alveo della migrazione. Friulana certo, ma la cui portata diventerebbe universale. In tal modo l’emigrazione, evento che è per la sua stessa essenza dislocato, sradicato, in between, in sospeso, in itinere, a cavallo tra continenti, identità e individui, un nonluogo per antonomasia, secondo la definizione dell’antropologo Marc Augé , avrà un suo “luogo” identitario, relazionale e storico. PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

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ADVICE

TOP 5 QUESTIONS FOR SOMEONE COMING TO WORK IN CANADA By Anna Di Stasio, a consulting Immigration Attorney with the firm of Me Pasquele Artuso & Associates. anada is one of the few countries in the Western World that is actively looking for immigrants. Not only is it easier to immigrate to Canada than to other countries, it is also probably one of the most attractive countries in which to live. It follows therefore, that with the downturn in Europe's economies in the last decade and the resulting unemployment, has made Canada an attractive option for Europe's tradespeople and professionals. Regardless of how economically and financially attractive Canada may appear for a foreign job seeker, if you want to work in Canada, you must meet the requirements for obtaining a work permit, which is a document issued by the Government of Canada authorizing you to work in Canada in a specific job for a specific period of time.

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To give you a quick summary of what is involved in getting a work permit, here is a list of Top 5 questions 1. Do I need a work permit to work in Canada? Yes, with certain exceptions. Generally, individuals who are not Canadian citizens or Permanent Residents of Canada require a valid work permit to work in Canada. For exceptions, visit www.panoramitalia.com/en/opinion/

2. Do I need a job offer before I can apply for a work permit? Yes, with certain exceptions. Generally, you need a job offer from a Canadian employer before you can apply for a work permit. For exceptions, visit www.panoramitalia.com/en/opinion/

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3. Now that I have a job offer, can I apply for my work permit? No, with certain exceptions. In most cases, Canadian employers must receive a positive Labour Market Opinion (LMO) before they can hire a temporary foreign worker. A positive LMO will show that there is a need for the foreign worker to fill the job offer and that there is no Canadian worker available to do the job. To apply for a LMO, Canadian employers must first undergo an extensive recruitment process, which involves, in most cases, advertising the position for a minimum four (4) week period. For exceptions, visit www.panoramitalia.com/en/opinion/

4. I hear it is easier to get a work permit in Quebec. Is that true? Yes and no. Quebec is currently the only province that exempts its employers from the 4 week recruitment process, IF the position the employer wants to fill is found on a list of professions that are deemed to be experiencing a labour shortage in Quebec. Effective February 24, 2014, Quebec’s Facilitated LMO Process will now include forty-two (42) specialized occupations, such as web designers; civil, mechanical, aerospace and software engineers, nurses, dental hygienists, social workers, and heavy duty equipment mechanics. For positions not on the list, Quebec employers must follow the general LMO procedures applicable to employers across Canada. I note that, in addition to applying for an LMO, a Quebec-based employer must also secure a CAQ. The CAQ certifies that Immigration Quebec agrees with

Service Canada’s assessment that hiring a foreign worker will not have a negative effect on the local labour market. Jobs in Quebec that will last for a period of 30 days or less do not require a CAQ. Also, if a foreign worker’s job is LMO-exempt, they will not need a CAQ either to work in Quebec. 5. Now that I have a work permit, can I apply for permanent resident status? Maybe. A work permit is a temporary resident visa and does not automatically lead to permanent residence. However, a foreign worker may apply for permanent resident status while living and working in Canada with a work permit. There are various programs under which a foreign worker can apply for permanent residence, some that require a minimum period of work experience in Canada and others that do not.

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Elena Milioto Avvocatessa

Caroline Francoeur Avvocatessa

Julie Therrien Avvocatessa

Valérie Carrier

Steven Campese Avvocato

Avvocatessa

T.: 514.259.7090

Pierre Fugère Avvocato - diritto criminale e penale Joseph W. Allen Avvocato dal 1976 diritto dell’immigrazione

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he ultimate in 4-star luxury, Le St-Martin Laval is centrally located in the heart of Downtown Laval, only steps away from the city’s financial and shopping districts. The hotel is the perfect place to stay for those travelling for business or pleasure. There are five well-equipped banquet rooms, but the most impressive feature of the hotel is its large outdoor venue, situated in the majestically decorated garden, which can hold up to 175 guests. The Grand Chapiteau offers that added touch that makes every event unforgettable. Whether for that once-in-a-lifetime wedding, or for a special family gathering, Le St-Martin Laval has the right space for you. The hotel also welcomes corporate meetings and conferences from local and international businesses throughout the year. Upon entering the main lobby, one can notice the attention paid to detail, from the dark wood décor to the striking stone fireplace and the Grand piano, located in the lounge-bar. Guests will be surprised by how luscious and truly large the property actually is and how many it can

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accommodate. There is even a small gym for guests to keep up their own personal routine during their stay. Once the workout is complete, there’s an outdoor Jacuzzi only steps away to wind down, surrounded by a beautiful garden and terrace. The 116 bedrooms and suites are each beautifully designed and decorated. All rooms are very spacious and balance perfectly between contemporary style and classic detail. They are fully furnished with many modern amenities such as a full mini-bar, complimentary coffee, flat screen TV with HD channels, and free Wi-Fi service enabling guests to stay connected to the outside world. Suites feature a fireplace and Jacuzzi to create a warm and relaxing atmosphere. Overnight guests can enjoy a complimentary gourmet Europeanstyle breakfast. Following your stay, you have the option of bringing the comfort of Le St-Martin back home with you. Guests can actually order any of the amenities and furnishings (pillows, comforter duvet, mattress, sleigh bed) provided in the rooms and suites, at the reception desk. Le St-Martin Laval’s vision has always been to set itself apart from other commercial chain hotels. Particular attention is paid to each guest – they are made to feel like they are part of the family. The hotel welcomes people to discover the beauty of this property – whether you live in the area or are from a different city. Do yourself a favour and leave those chain hotels behind and treat yourself to the finest accommodations and hospitality Le St-Martin Hotel & Suites has to offer. Consider even a weekend stay to decompress or to celebrate an anniversary. The charming staff and welcoming environment will be sure to please anyone. Who doesn’t deserve to be pampered?

1400 Maurice Gauvin Laval, Qc., H7S 2P1 Tel. 450.902.3000 www.lestmartin.com

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ONE MORE DAY

If I Had One More Day Per mio marito Nicola Pastore Siamo stati felici assieme per 50 anni; poi sei andato via senza un avviso. Non una parola d’addio! Seduto sul letto dell’ospedale, ti sei accasciato sul mio braccio, non ho più sentito il battito del tuo cuore e ho capito che mi avevi lasciato per sempre. Ora, tu mi manchi. All’ improvviso, mi hai lasciato. Non abbiamo avuto il tempo di dirci addio, e questo è ancora più doloroso per me, e per i nostri figli e nipoti. Ora, se tu tornassi, anche per un giorno - ma che dico! anche un minuto- , ne approfitterei per dirti quanto mi manchi e ti sarei vicino, abbracciandoti per sentire ancora per una volta il battito del tuo cuore e dirti che è stata una vita bella, quella trascorsa insieme con te. Sei stato l’uomo ideale per me. E il papà perfetto per i nostri figli. Questo non te l’ho mai detto, ma sono sicura che tu lo sapevi, e capivi, dal mio fare e dire, il bene che ti volevo. Ma se tu tornassi, ti direi questo: Sei stato il mio paradiso con il bene che mi davi. Sei stato il mio purgatorio perché perdonavi i miei sbagli. Ora sono all’inferno senza di te. Anna Pastore Newmarket Ontario

In memory of my wonderful husband Jay If only I had one more day, every second would be spent together. As we would watch the sunrise and I held him close to me, I would tell him how much I loved him and how perfect he is. His beautiful blue eyes that were always smiling at me, to the sweet kisses he shared and his infectious laugh... I would love to hear, see and feel that again! The whole day would be all about our happiness of doing things together: listening to music, cooking a meal (being Irish/Scottish and a great cook, he loved Italian food), watching a Nascar race that hopefully resulted in a win by his beloved JR, looking at our numerous fishing pictures and all his big catches! Sharing all our wonderful memories from the last 27 years together. We had many, for which I am truly grateful. I would like this one more day to last an eternity once again united. The sun is going down and while I try to hide the tears that are streaming down my cheeks, I want to tell him, “I love you loads, babe, and thank you for sharing your life with me. I was one very lucky woman.” Amy Barrett

2227 Bélanger est • Montréal • Québec H2G 1C5 T.514.374.5653 • www.gastronomiaroberto.com 72

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Se avessi un altro giorno Un giorno in più con la mia cara suocera Maria Nastasi Maria era una donna meravigliosa, di poche parole. Aveva un grande cuore e la risata contagiosa. La famiglia era la cosa più importante per lei. Quindi è giusto, che se potessi avere un giorno in più con lei, sia una giornata piena di abbracci, di baci, di risate con tanto affetto in compagnia dei sei figli, 15 nipoti e 17 pronipoti. Vorrei ringraziarti per tutte le tue lezioni di vita e le storie che hai condiviso con me sul duro lavoro, sui sacrifici, le tragedie e i traguardi raggiunti. Mi hai insegnato che i beni materiali o le dimensioni non fanno una casa, ma sono l'amore e le risate condivise con la famiglia e con gli amici a farlo. Mi hai insegnato che i pettegolezzi della gente non sono importanti. Quello che conta è saper ascoltare i sentimenti che abbiamo dentro di noi, cogliere uno sguardo affettuoso, un sorriso speciale o una tenera carezza. Eri una donna speciale, hai influenzato la vita di tante persone, specialmente la mia. Colgo l’occasione per ringraziarti per l'onore e il piacere che mi hai dato dalla prima volta che ci siamo conosciute, per avermi trattata come una figlia. È un esempio che imito e condivido oggi con le mie nuore Rachel e Kamilla. Se potessi rivederti per un altro giorno il mio cuore batterebbe forte forte e ti darei un ultimo bacio, ti abbraccerei come ho fatto tante volte. Tutta la tua famiglia ti vuole bene. Che onore e che piacere è stato per me essere stata trattata come una delle tue figlie. Grazie mamma, non ti dimenticheremo mai. Rachel Iamundo

Marina Rose Barone (née Bertossi) Marina was my priceless treasure; she was a faithful sister, leader and friend. I feel blessed to have had her be a part of my life's journey, and I would selfishly want one more day with her all to myself. We would spend the entire day in Port Sydney – her favourite town. It would undoubtedly be an autumn day, her favourite time of year. We would invariably start the morning at the town’s main lodge, sipping a hot cup of tea. Marina would be cozied up beside me on the rickety porch swing nestled amongst the pines that overlook Mary Lake. No words would be uttered; we would simply let the momentum move us back and forth while our lungs would filter the crisp Muskokan air and our sights would drink in the showcase of natural beauty. Soon thereafter, we would climb aboard our 10-speed bikes, meandering through the town and Marina would inevitably point out the main attractions, breaking into song here and there along our travels, belting out tunes from the ’70s. We would break for a picnic lunch at Indian Landing and sit beneath her favourite maple tree that grows along the river’s edge. We would soak in all of its vivid fall colours; a sense of calm would prevail. Then Marina’s roaring laughter would soon rush in to take its place.

From there we would trek through the majestic evergreens to the famed cave to see if our names were still fixtures. Then, Marina would guide us a short distance to the rapids, by the scenic dam. A fearless leader, she would dare me to jump into the frigid waters after her. I would oblige – for the first time ever; trusting in her completely. After a quick change, we would end our day in the same way in which it began – sipping a hot cup of tea, cozied up alongside one another on the rickety porch swing. And with that, I know that she will continue to live on in my heart and mind. Missing you beyond words, Marina. With abounding love for you. Marissa

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The Grand St-Valentine’s Gala The third annual Grand St-Valentine’s Gala, co-presented by the Grand Show Band and Panoram Italia, had over 650 party goers dining and dancing the night away for a fantastic homegrown cause. Held at a sumptuously decorated Le Madison reception center on February 15, the event raised $153,000 to benefit Generations Foundation, an organization that feeds 7,700 underprivileged children in 96 Montreal schools on a daily basis. Special thanks goes out to Luxury Retreats for donating a one week stay at a private villa in Barbados valued at $8,000, as well as the many other volunteers and sponsors that made this evening a true success. See you next year! Photography by Le Groupe Grafica See video of the Grand St-Valentine’s Gala online at panoramitalia.com

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EVENTS

EMILIO IMBRIGLIO HONORÉ

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LA MYICA POUR LES JEUNES Dans leur communiqué de presse il est écrit: “We unify, we connect, we have fun and we are transparent.” Nicholas La Monaca, Joanne Napolitano, Anne-Darle Lucia, Vanessa Orsini, Sabrina Mercuri, Mike Miele et Gabriele Borsoi ont mis sur pied l’Association des jeunes Italo-Canadiens de Montréal afin de se réunir, de partager et de transmettre leur amour pour leur culture et leur pays d’origine. C’est aussi un point d’ancrage qui veut assurer un lien entre l’Italie d’ici, plus traditionnelle, et l’Italie moderne d’aujourd’hui. L’association veut réunir des jeunes d’origine italienne, s’amuser, créer des événements et veut laisser la chance à tous les membres de s’exprimer sur leurs intérêts et leurs idées. Gabriele Borsoi, 30 ans est le président de l’Association. Natif de Rome, il s’est établi à Montréal il y a seulement 2 ans et raconte qu’il a observé avec étonnement que les ItaloMontréalais semblaient vivre avec une culture du passé. Et c’est pour renouer avec l’Italie contemporaine qu’il a mis sur pied l’association. Plusieurs regroupements réunissant des jeunes d’origine italienne ont été créés mais peu ont persisté. J’ai donc demandé à Gabriele ce qui différenciait la MYICA des autres.

Créé en 1967, le Cocktail du Président de l’Association des gens d’affaires et professionnels italo-canadiens au Québec (CIBPA) connaît encore aujourd’hui tout autant de popularité qu’à ses débuts. L’année de sa création, c’est au maire de Montréal de l’époque, l’Honorable Jean Drapeau que fut attribué cet honneur. Depuis, plus de 46 hommes et femmes, la plupart d’origine italienne ont été honorés. Pour l’année 2013, le comité a octroyé cette reconnaissance au président et chef de la direction de Raymond Chabot Grant Thornton, M. Emilio Imbriglio pour ses accomplissements exceptionnels dans le milieu des affaires et pour son immense contribution à la communauté canadienne-italienne. Son leadership, ses qualités de rassembleur, sa capacité à générer des consensus et sa compréhension rapide des grands enjeux en font un acteur respecté et apprécié par les décideurs d’affaires et les autorités gouvernementales. M. Imbriglio est membre du Cabinet de campagne pour la campagne majeure de financement de la Fondation du Centre hospitalier de l’Université de Montréal depuis 2012. Il a été enseignant aux universités Concordia et McGill pendant 18 ans. Il est très impliqué dans la vie communautaire et a été entre autre, président du conseil d’administration de l’Hôpital Santa Cabrini où il a siégé de 1997 à 2002. En 2010, il a été nommé Chevalier de l’Ordre du mérite italien de la République italienne. Lors de son allocution, Emilio Imbriglio a mentionné à quel point la préparation et le travail étaient indissociables du succès. Il a souligné l’apport incontestable de ses parents, tout particulièrement celui de sa mère et son témoignage touchant s’est avéré la preuve que… derrière tout grand homme se trouve une grande dame. Bravo Emilio!

FROM NONNA, WITH LOVE

“Je peux vous dire que nous sommes passionnés et déterminés. Nous ne sommes pas un groupe fermé, au contraire, nous souhaitons impliquer ceux et celles dont les intérêts sont complémentaires ; nous allons créer des sous-groupes dirigés par les membres du comité, ils devront participer aux réunions bimensuelles et seront alors en mesure de véritablement intervenir dans les décisions de l’association. Nous sommes ouverts au changement et nous allons maintenir un contact continu avec la communauté par le biais des médias sociaux et de rencontres régulières. La collaboration avec d’autres organisations est essentielle et nous permettra de grandir ensemble. Il est primordial que nous puissions rencontrer les institutions et les autorités afin de partager notre vision et nos idées avec eux en impliquant le plus grand nombre possible de jeunes afin d’organiser des événements annuels. » Dans les activités à suivre, il y en aura bien sûr les célébrations entourant les matchs de la Nazionale lors de la coupe mondiale de soccer- mais Gabriele est superstitieux et n’en dévoilera pas davantage – ainsi que des activités à venir dans le cadre de la Semaine Italienne. Quant aux modalités d’inscription il suffit de consulter www.myica.ca | Facebook: goMyica et sachez que l’âge a peu d’importance puisque l’association a nommé Elisa Pillarella 94 ans, membre honoraire. “L’âge n’est pas nécessairement un gage de jeunesse”, ajoute le président Gabriele Borsoi !

Cassandra Bauco is the proud former teacher of two class of 2010 high school students Matteo Agostinelli and Mathew Foulidis. “Words cannot express how proud I am of them, for they’ve written their own cookbook and started their own publishing company in a mere four years after graduating from high school.” Cassandra Bauco seemed so overly delighted, that I decided to share their formidable story with you. Matteo Agostinelli and Mathew Foulidis published an amazing recipe book, From Nonna, With Love. Put together over the past four years, this cookbook is a selfpublished compilation of their grandmothers’ recipes: classic Italian fare that has not only stood the test of time but evolved in a Canadian cultural context. Spending much of their free time in the kitchen, these young men naturally gravitated toward the food they grew up with, and on many occasions, found themselves trying to replicate the dishes of their childhoods. Such a task, however, was far easier said than done, as their grandmothers rarely took the time to record any of these family recipes. Needless to say, this did not sit well with Matteo and Mathew. For all intents and purposes, these recipes were the lifeblood of their families, and if they were to be preserved, something drastic needed to be done: they needed to be written down. After somehow convincing the women in their lives to join them on this journey, From Nonna, With Love was born. Boasting over 80 recipes from opposite ends of the Italian peninsula, this book is Matteo and Mathew’s way of honouring their grandparents and sharing their legacies with the world. Since officially launching their book this past November 2013, they’ve not only received overwhelming success selling over 1000 copies (including a French version Avec Amour, Nonna) in barely three months in various reputable locations but they’ve also received notoriety from appearances and cooking demos at Williams Sonoma, Montreal’s very own CBC local news, CTV and Global Montreal talk shows as well. In essence, they epitomize some of the most impressively ambitious and successful young Italian-Canadian talent we have here in Montreal. Thanks Cassandra!

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EVENTS

MISS QUÉBEC 2014 Elle n’a que 15 ans, fréquente l’école Secondaire Laurier McDonald en 4ième secondaire, elle est jolie comme tout mais… comme tant d’adolescentes, souffre du manque d’estime de soi. C’est ce qui a amené Pamela Pagano à poser sa candidature au concours Miss (Teen) Québec 2014. Un concours de beauté pas comme les autres puisque les candidates sont jugées sur des critères tels que la personnalité, l’implication sociale et le bénévolat. Ainsi, elles n’ont pas à défiler en maillot, mais doivent plutôt accomplir une action humanitaire sur laquelle elles seront jugées. Les ateliers offerts aux parPamela Pagano ticipantes leur permettent d’avoir accès à des cours de maintien, de diction, d’auto-défense, de bienséance et d’esthétique. Paméla me raconte que le seul fait de participer à ce concours lui a redonné confiance. « Être jolie ne signifie pas grand-chose. Je crois que la vraie beauté est à l’intérieur, qu’il faut apprendre à croire en soi. » Et c’est en aidant son père à mettre sur pied une levée de fonds pour la Fondation Monnaie d’Espoir ou Cents of Hope destinée à venir en aide aux enfants atteints de cancer qu’elle dit s’être sentie bien. « C’est en donnant du temps et de l’amour aux enfants malades que je me suis sentie au meilleur de moi-même. Maintenant que je détiens ce titre, j’ai appris qu’il faut croire en soi et surtout, croire que tout est possible ! » Pour Pamela, cette expérience fut si enrichissante qu’elle a maintenant l’intention de se présenter au concours Miss (Teen) Canada.

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Louisa Papa was born of immigrant Italian parents who settled in Montreal in the 1930. Her father, a war hero from the First World War, and her mother, a mid-wife and medical assistant, instilled the values of hard work, dedication, and perseverance. Louisa faced many challenges, growing up in a time when Italians were considered enemies of the state during the Second World War. Together with other Italian families, they survived and flourished. Through these experiences Louisa recognized the importance of family, community and never taking anything for granted. After graduating Magna Cum Laude from St. Patrick’s High School, she began working for the Royal Trust Company where she worked her way up to the executive levels of the company until she married and had a daughter. Louisa began working for the Canadian Italian Business and Professional People’s association in 1982. She is dedicated, witty, and makes all CIBPA members feel like they are part of a family. Louisa has been the pillar of the business association for 32 years and her loyalty is the envy of many of today’s employers, who feel that one of the greatest challenges a company can face is keeping their employees for such a long period! To celebrate Louisa’s departure, the association is organizing a farewell dinner. You can reserve your place by calling 514-254-4929 or by consulting www.cibpamontreal.com.

UNE JOURNÉE POUR LES FEMMES Célébrée chaque année le 8 Mars, le thème de la Journée internationale de la Femme 2014 était « L’égalité pour les femmes, c’est le progrès pour toutes et tous ». Le premier 8 mars de l’Italie libre fut organisé en 1946 par l’Unione Donne Italiane (Union des femmes en Italie). L’Italie sortait de la Seconde Guerre mondiale et n’était pas encore une République. Les femmes avaient obtenu le droit de vote mais ne l’avaient pas encore mis en pratique. Ce sont les turinoises Teresa Noce, Rita Montagnana et Teresa Mattei qui choisirent le mimosa comme symbole de la Journée internationale de lutte et de fête de la femme parce que c’est la fleur la plus répandue à cette période de l’année. Un peu plus près de nous, le Congrès national des Italo-Canadiens a organisé dimanche le 9 mars le colloque Courage et Persévérance, au cours duquel les conférencières, les docteures Absa Diallo MD, originaire du Sénégal, Judith Saint-Laurent MD, hôpital Santa Cabrini, originaire de Québec, et Paola Fata, MDCM, MSC, FRCSC, invitée d’honneur d’origine italienne et directrice du programme de formation en chirurgie générale de l’Université McGill , professeure associée et chirurgienne en traumatologie sévère au Centre universitaire de la santé de l’Université McGill ont partagé leur expérience et leur vision. De plus, on y a présenté une expo-photos réalisée par 5 artistes d’origine diverses et de style différents. Depuis 5 ans l’organisme communautaire organise à chaque année un colloque visant à faire connaître des femmes qui évoluent dans le milieu des affaires, de la culture, des médias et de la santé. Une initiative de Michelina Lavoratore, Faustina Bilotta, Josie Verrillo, Alexandro Loffredi et Connie Ventura.

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KRISTINA PANZERA en 4 questions Kristina Panzera est la fille aînée de Giuseppe Panzera et de Marguerite Ciot et la petite-fille du fondateur de l’entreprise familiale Ciot, Giovanni Battista Ciot. C’est en 1950 que ce dernier fonde la société qui fabriquait alors des tuiles de terrazzo. Au fil du temps, Ciot s’est dirigé vers l’importation et la distribution de pierres naturelles, de céramiques, de marbre, d’ardoise, d’onyx et d’accessoires d’eau. Aujourd’hui, Kristina Panzera et sa sœur Claudia poursuivent leur carrière sur les traces de leurs parents qui ont véritablement donné à l’entreprise l’ampleur qu’on lui connaît aujourd’hui. Kristina occupe le poste de directrice du marketing et acheteuse céramique. De nature plutôt discrète, on dit qu’elle dirige avec beaucoup d’efficacité, de vision et d’intelligence. Diplômée de McGill dont elle a obtenu un MBA en 1996, Kristina affirme avoir la céramique dans le sang. Elle se rappelle les voyages en Italie lorsqu’elle était enfant. Son père Giuseppe l’y emmenait décrypter les qualités du plus beau marbre de Carrare alors que les autres membres de la famille étaient à la plage. Elle adorait ! Ses liens familiaux sont solides et elle raconte qu’elle n’a pas grandi dans un climat familial oppressant. Au contraire, sa mère l’a mise en garde contre les difficultés du milieu et aurait préféré, à l’époque tout au moins, qu’elle prenne un autre chemin. Kristina Panzera s’est prêtée au jeu des 4 questions que voici :

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Q : A-t-il été facile de te tailler une place dans l’entreprise familiale ? R : Mon père a été très exigeant envers moi, davantage qu’avec les autres employés. Je crois qu’il craignait que je ne prenne la voie facile. Je venais de compléter mon MBA lorsque j’ai intégré l’entreprise à temps plein et j’y ai apporté des façons de faire plus organisées et structurées. Avec le temps et beaucoup de travail, je me suis taillée une place de choix. Q : Quels sont te liens avec la culture italienne ? R : Je suis en liens constants avec l’Italie, à chaque jour je parle à mes fournisseurs. 95% de nos produits proviennent de l’Italie et je m’y rends 2 fois l’an pour rencontrer nos représentants et voir les nouveaux produits. Mes liens sont à la fois professionnels et affectifs. Je parle couramment la langue, j’y voyage régulièrement avec ma famille et j’adore tout simplement la culture. Q : Comment reconnais-tu les nouvelles tendances ? R : On n’est jamais sûr mais je travaille beaucoup avec les architectes et les designers et je fréquente les grands salons d’exposition, j’y découvre alors les nouveautés. Les fournisseurs sont aussi d’excellentes sources d’information puisqu’ils font de grandes études. En général, le marché commercial innove d’abord, le résidentiel suit dans un délai d’environ 1 à 2 ans.

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Q : Quelles sont les tendances 2014 ? R : Le look ciment, résine industrielle, les gris chauds et à l’opposé, le look rétro des années ‘50-‘60 . Le cento per cento, des tuiles dont le format est de 5``x7``, que l’on installe à l’horizontale. L’émail est très brillant et les motifs à même la tuile créent une profondeur et un décor sans avoir à y ajouter d’autres éléments. Les couleurs privilégiées sont le blanc, le mauve et l’aqua qui donne à la salle de bain une impression de fraîcheur et de propreté. Et pour les amoureuses du marbre qui, tout comme moi, n’ont pas la certitude de pouvoir vivre avec sa fragilité d’emploi, il existe maintenant de nouvelles tuiles qui l’imitent à la perfection sans les désagréments du vieillissement ! Kristina Panzera est mariée à Anthony Ieraci et est maman de Noémi 11 ans et de Luca 9 ans.

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Le Gala Friends for the Cure, organisé dans le but d’aider le programme POP (Programme Pré Opératoire) de l’Hôpital Général de Montréal, a connu encore cette année un franc succès, amassant près de 75,000$. POP étudie des stratégies visant à améliorer la qualité des soins préopératoires offerts aux patients atteints de cancer qui doivent subir une importante chirurgie. POP vise aussi à mettre sur pied un centre de prévention et de promotion pré et post opératoire ultra spécialisé visant à venir en aide à ces patients. Plus de 940 invités ont généreusement participé au Gala. www.friendsforthecure.ca. Restaurant Graziella a fêté ses 20 ans de cuisine en accueillant son mentor, le chef Vincenzo Cammerucci de Ravenna, qui a fait découvrir ses recettes et sa passion pour son nouveau restaurant CaMi agroturismo. Côté vin Christina Geminiani de la Fattoria Zerbina a présenté ses grands sangiovese d’ÉmilieRomagne et le Prince Francesco Spadafora a réchauffé le cœur des invités avec ses grandioses syrahs gorgés de soleil de Sicile. 20 ans de vinification. 20 ans de gastronomie préparés avec passion et amour. Bravo Graziella ! Le Concert Contre le Cancer de l’Institut du cancer de Montréal a amassé plus de 500,000$. Une soirée magique avec au programme des œuvres de Rossini, Mascagni et Édith Piaf et la participation du ténor Marc Hervieux accompagné de l’Orchestre Métropolitain dirigé par le chef Alain Trudel. Tony Loffreda viceprésident régional Services financiers commerciaux, Ouest du Québec, RBC Banque Royale est président du cabinet de campagne depuis 2010. Mis sur pied en 2007, le Concert Contre le Cancer a pour objectif de venir en aide au Programme de rapatriement des cerveaux par l’Institut du cancer de Montréal. Depuis, le programme a permis le retour à Montréal de six jeunes chercheurs de haut niveau.

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SPORTS

Maserati

By Alain Raymond

The century-old legend

Carlo Maserati’s mechanical genius proved to be something of an inspiration for his younger brother Alfieri who followed his lead into engineering, after his older brother succumbed to tuberculosis at a young age. With three of his six remaining brothers – Bindo, Ettore and Ernesto – Alfieri formed Officina Alfieri Maserati on December 1, 1914, in their hometown of Bologna.

Birth of the Trident Initially, the Maserati brothers concentrated on aero engines and manufacturing spark plugs, but soon became involved in maintaining cars for clients involved in auto racing. Their own first car, the Tipo 26, powered by a 1.5 litre in-line 8-cylinder engine, ran the famous Targa Florio road The Tipo 26, the first race car designed and race in Sicily in 1926 and won its first time built by the Maserati brothers. out. It was driven by Alfieri Maserati and brought considerable prestige to the Maserati name and its new symbol, the Trident. In those early years of European racing, competition came from the likes of Bugatti and Alfa Romeo as well as the impressive German armada of Auto Union and Mercedes, both heavily supported by the German state. Unable to compete against such giants, Maserati turned to the smaller 1.5 litre “voiturettes.” Still, the cost of racing was such that in 1937 the three remaining Maserati brothers (Alfieri had passed away in 1932) accepted an offer by the Modenese industrialist Orsi family to take over the company and secure its finances.

mechanical genius who would later design the legendary V12 engine for Enzo Ferrari. Having won the ultimate championship in 1957, Maserati retired from Formula 1 and concentrated on sportscar racing with the amazing Tipo 60-61, nicknamed “Birdcage” due to its unusual chassis consisting of more than 200 tubular sections, which ensured outstanding rigidity with an extremely light weight. On the heels of the successful 3500 GT road car came the new Maserati 5000 GT powered by a V8 engine. The first car was built in 1959 specifically for the Shah of Iran. Then came the Sebring, the Mistral and the first Quattroporte, the world’s fastest four-door sedan, and the 1967 Ghibli considered by many as one of the most beautiful cars to ever come out of Italy.

The Orsi years The brothers committed to stay with the company as technical directors for ten years, during which time they created a new 8-cylinder in-line 3-litre engine and the Maserati 8CTF capable of facing the formidable German machinery. Crossing the Atlantic in 1939, the 8CTF driven by American Wilbur Shaw lined up for the 500 Miles of Indianapolis and won The 3500 GT was the first commercially the famous American classic. Shaw and successful Maserati road car. Maserati repeated this feat in 1940. In 1947, at the end of the ten-year agreement with the Orsi family, Bindo, Ettore and Ernesto Maserati left the company bearing their name to create Officine Specializzate per la Costruzione di Automobili Fratelli Maserati SA (OSCA). They went back to their passion of designing and building sports and racing cars. Meanwhile, wishing to finance his racing activities, Omar Orsi introduced the A6 1500, the first Maserati road car, at the 1947 Geneva Auto Show. Ten years later, in 1957, came the Maserati 3500 GT, the first commercially successful car and the basis for many more to follow. On the racing scene, a new World Drivers’ Championship (today’s Formula 1) was created in 1950. Alfa Romeo with Giuseppe Farina, Luigi Fagioli and Juan Manuel Fangio were the first winners, followed in 1953 and 1954 by newcomer Ferrari. In 1954, Maserati won the first two races of the season but had to wait till 1957 for total victory at the hand of the brilliant Argentinean Juan Manuel Fangio driving the Maserati 250F. This magnificent car was created by Gioacchino Colombo, the

The Chrysler years Lee Iacocca, the “saviour of Chrysler”, had close ties with Alejandro de Tomaso from their days at Ford. Iacocca asked de Tomaso to build a car powered by a Maserati engine for the American market and invested $35 million in a joint venture. But de Tomaso pulled out of Maserati in 1993 by selling his shares to Fiat, prompting Chrysler to withdraw from its Italian adventure after only four years.

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PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M

The Citroën years In 1968, the Orsi family decided to sell Maserati to French automaker Citroën. During its short seven-year tenure, Citroën presided over the launch of two mid-engine sports cars, the Bora and the Merak, followed by the Khamsin. In 1975, following the unsuccessful Citroën SM powered by a Maserati V6 engine, the French firm abandoned Maserati to an Italian company headed by Alejandro de Tomaso who surprised the automotive world with the Maserati Biturbo sedan.

The Fiat and Ferrari years The Maserati saga finally came to a conclusion in 1997 when Fiat merged the Trident with the Cavallino Rampante, thus putting an end to decades-long rivalry and creating a united Italian sports car powerhouse. The 1998 Maserati 3200 GT, powered by a twin-turbo V8, was the first product of this union. The sleek two-door coupé proudly wearing the Trident led the way for one of the most beautiful sedans to grace the road: the 2004 Pininfarina-designed Maserati Quattroporte. Most recently, joining the expanding Maserati range is a “baby Quattroporte,” the all-new Ghibli, squarely aimed at the mid-range luxury segment. Over two decades after the ill-fated Chrysler TC by Maserati imagined by Lee Iacocca, Chrysler and Maserati are interconnected again via the newly formed Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA). One can now safely say that Maserati is back in business on a global basis heralding a second century for one of the oldest and most storied automotive brands in history. “The Maserati brothers had one thing in common: they were artists,” says Umberto Bonfa of Ferrari Maserati Quebec. “They sculpted automobiles that were beautiful and that won races. One hundred years later, this is a new era for the brand.” On this momentous occasion, let’s wish Alfieri, Bindo, Ettore and Ernesto and their legendary Trident buon 100° anniversario.


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Panoram Italia Montreal April/May 2014