Pacific Island Living Issue $27

Islandliving pacific

AUTUMN 2019 | ISSUE 27

e l y t S e d i s a Se SURF I DIVE I SKI

AU$5 (incl. GST) AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

9 772200 956005

01

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | NORFOLK ISLAND SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

Operating from Port Denarau Marina, we provide Fiji’s premier water taxi service throughout the stunning Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands.

We also cater for large groups and fishing charters as well as private or corporate cruises tailored to suit your individual requirements.

FIJI’S PREMIER TAXI SERVICE We operate eight modern vessels providing fast and reliable transfer services. Our team of experienced and friendly staff maintain a strong commitment to high safety standards and customer satisfaction combined with awesome local knowledge of the spectacular scenery and crystal clear waters of the Mamanuca islands.

EXCLUSIVE CHARTERS Whether you seek adventure, romance or simply to explore our island resorts, an exclusive charter with Mamanuca Express offers you unlimited potential for island hopping. Enjoy fishing, surfing, diving, kayaking, snorkelling, sea trekking and swimming. Or simply laze on the beach at one of the many island resorts while the crystal blue waters lap at your feet. We also offer lunch and dinner cruises. Contact us to create your perfect itinerary.

mamanucaexpress.com +679 675 0151 | 777 0021

res@mamanucaexpress.com

PICTURES: The SS President Coolidge.

F R O M TH E E D ITOR

here are many reasons visitors come to the Pacific, most choose it for a relaxing holiday in the sunshine.

From five star resorts to hiking, the Pacific offers a fantastic holiday to suit any kind of adventure.

In this issue we feature some of the region’s best diving and watersports. For me, it’s hard to go past Solomon Islands for diving; those islands are simply teeming with fish and if you love sharks as I do, a trip there is not to be missed.

In Fiji you’ll be spoilt by the amazing healthy reefs around its beautiful 300+ islands and Vanuatu is home to the world’s largest, most accessible shipwreck, the SS President Coolidge (pictured above).

I was fortunate enough to do most of my diver training in Vanuatu, a lot under the watchful eye of the ‘Caretaker of the President’, Allan Power. Allan died this week so it is fitting this issue be about the industry he helped form in Vanuatu.

I interviewed Allan many times over the years and found we always ended up talking about gardening more than diving, in fact he told me the last time we spoke he loved the gardening stories in this magazine in particular, which for a man who set the bar so high with gardening was quite the compliment. I will miss our conversations about that, fish and tourism in general.

Also in this issue are our other regulars fashion, health and beauty stories and don’t forget each of our articles is also on our all new website at www.pacificislandliving.com To keep up to date on the best of the Pacific, subscribe to our newsletter online and follow us on Instagram @pacisliving Happy reading.

Tiffany Carroll

islandliving | 1 pacific

Pacific Island Living No 27 | Autumn 2019 Cover photo: Six Senses, Fiji. Cover photo Malaga: David Kirkland; Cover photo Nauru Airlines: Adam Bietz.

EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Nicole Brown SUB EDITOR Elaine Wilson FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Georgie Gordon, Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Rebecca Murphy, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Lauren Jagger, Renee Leslie, Mark Leslie, Eva Westfield, David Kirkland, Roderick Eime, Damea Dorsey, Tony Wilson, Dusk Devi, Poasa Baice.

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Rebecca Murphy: Regional Manager Fiji | Nauru | Samoa | Vanuatu | NZ | Solomon Islands Telephone: (64) 21 951 342 or (64) 825 7340 Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram

at instagram.com/pacisliving

Or read this and all our magazines online www.pacificislandliving.com

at

COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office, Samoa Airways or Pacific Island Living.

Pacific Island Living is the official inflight magazine of Nauru Airlines and Samoa Airways.

2 | Islandliving pacific

Both the Yasawas and the Mamanucas are made up of around 20 islands each some of which disappear with the tide

CONTENTSumn 2019 Aut 7

BEACHCOMBER A smart new tech and fashion accessory for girls with phones. Tahitian dance in the running for listing with UNESCO. New adventures in Fiji and a new plane for Solomon Airlines.

10

32

38

BOOK LOOK

46

PICTURE: Tourism Fiji

THE ISLANDS NEXT DOOR A short trip from Fiji’s Viti Levu are a group of island gems. Craig Tansley discovers the Yasawa Islands while Craig Osment drops in at the Mamanuca’s luxurious Likuliku resort. Just a short trip from the ‘mainland’ but a world away.

22

SURF, DIVE, SKI Our nine-page feature on all that’s best on the water

DECOR – TROPICAL TREATS Olivia Waugh rounds up a collection of stylish items to enhance any tropical lifestyle

From Nordic noir to sixties rock ‘n’ roll and page-turning thrillers, Georgie Gordon reports.

16

FASHION FLASH – TWO-SEASON SKIING Olivia Waugh recommends the best of ski gear for both winter and summer, because some of you will be taking a break in the snow while the rest of us laze in the sunshine.

NET ASSETS Georgie Gordon surfs the net and find the ultimate guide to ... surfing sites and accommodation from around the world.

14

SWITCH OFF FOR THE SUNSET The story behind Breakas is a romantic one. Originally a private home on the Pango Peninsula outside Port Vila, the owner gifted the property to his new bride and together they built what is now Breakas Beach Resort.

SIX SENSES The residences at Six Senses in Fiiji have their own unique character. Whether it’s a birthday, a friend’s get together or a well-deserved luxury trip away, we found this to bne the perfect home away from home.

12

around the region. From diving in Vanuatu, Samoa and Solomons to surfing some of the best breaks the Pacific has to offer in Fiji and a whole lot more.

46

PACIFIC RUNWAY 2018 Dusk Devi Nand showcases the best of our Pacific fashion creatives who are fresh from the success of the latest Pacific Runway show at Sydney’s stylish Carriageworks.

50

BEAUTY TRENDS The good, the bad and the ugly. Georgie Gordon offers tips on how to stay on trend without going off the deep end.

islandliving | 3 pacific

Above; left: it’s all happening beneath the surface, see page 22. Right: Typography as an art form is thriving thanks to computers, page 114.

57

DESTINATION GUIDE – YOUR PORTAL TO THE PACIFIC The Pacific is made up of some of the most spectacular islands in the world. We’re spoilt for choice when it comes to experiences in the Pacific – whether it’s fivestar accommodation or a beach faré, there’s something for everyone. From Vanuatu to the Solomons to Fiji and Samoa and more.

82

NORFOLK ISLAND Captain James Cook was the first to officially discover Norfolk Island, describing it as ‘paradise’ – a term he did not use liberally in his journals.

88

92

THE BEST OF JAPAN

114 ART SMART – TYPE CAST– The old saying goes; ‘you can’t tell a book by its cover’ but graphic designers and typographers try to tell at least a genre or a brand.

122 GLORIOUS GARDENS

DINING GUIDE

CHRISTIANA COOKS – CHOCOLATE

110 SETTING YOUR FITNESS GOALS Lauren Jagger comes up with 12 pointers that you can add into your own daily lifestyle to help keep you fit.

pacific

Toby Preston believes a house without books would not only be a literary tragedy but also a missed decorating opportunity.

RESORT REPORT

For more than 4000 years, people of the world have turned to the delicacy of chocolate for rituals, medicine, romance and sheer pleasure. By Christiana Kaluscha

4 | Islandliving

1O8 ABODE – SHELF LIFE–

120 PACIFIC PULSE –

A couple of Fiji culinary destinations that guarantee the freshest seafood, one in Suva and one on Denarau.

98

Georgie Gordon reveals the healing power of the ocean.

Not only is it good for the soul, it’s a food source rich in vitamins and minerals, soak it up!

Our experts give you their highlights and tips on how to explore some of this amazing destination. By John Borthwick, Kris Madden, Ian Talbot, Roderick Eime.

We take a fresh look at two of the Pacific’s premier destinations. Fiji’s Tokoriki Island and Vanuatu’s Le Lagon.

94

106 HEALTH – HYDRO HEALING –

Rest assured you’re in good hands with both Helipro and Fiji Airways. Check out their news here.

Carolyn Ernst says if you can change your hairstyle then why not your garden? As your family grows and changes then your garden should follow suit and keep up with your needs.

125 CROSSWORD While you’re relaxing, that’s no excuse for not keeping your neurons nubile and your brain busy.

125 STAFF BIOGRAPHIES The charming people who make your magazine.

128 PAR AVION – CROWD CONTROL; Craig Osment reluctantly shuffles in convoy, trapped in a conga line of tourists – a very first world problem.

LO OKS VERY ADULT PERFECT FOR KIDS

T R AV E L B R I L L I A N T LY F I J I M A R R I O T T R E S O RT M O M I B AY Savusavu Road, Momi Bay, Viti Levu, Fiji P +679 670 7000 | E momibay.reservations@marriott.com www.fijimarriott.com

Dive into happiness Fiji is home to the best diving in the world, thanks to crystal clear water, white sand and tropical islands scattered in every direction. Known as the ‘Soft Coral Capital’, it’s a place where diving is great at any time of the year, where visibility is limited only by your eyesight and where marine life is plentiful. Book your trip today.

www.fiji.travel

B E A CH COMBE R Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.

STAYING IN CHARGE Here’s a clever idea for girls on the go. MightyPurse is a stylish collection of leather and vegan leather handbags that charge your phone. Designed in Bondi, Australia by model and tech entrepreneur Ana Slavka, MightyPurse is a clever fusion of fashion and technology, eliminating the anxiety of being left powerless.

Here’s how it works: Open your MightyPurse and unzip the centre pocket to reveal the USB charging cable. Simply plug into a USB port of your phone charger or computer.

Then when you want to charge your phone plug the micro USB cord located inside your MightyPurse to recharge your smartphone. To use with iPhone: Attach the included adapter to the micro-USB connector.

The purse comes in a range of colourful genuine leathers as well as ‘vegan leather’. There are extra large bags, reversible totes, a wristlet, a ‘geo bag’ and a zippered wallet Mighty Purse was founded by Slavka in 2013, who saw the need for a high-tech handbag, to keep women feeling connected and safe. Always finding her phone battery dying at the most inopportune times, she decided to solve the global issue by creating the solution herself.

“Many women face the dilemma where they have been out all day without a phone charger, their phone has less than ten percent battery, and they are still on the go” Slavka says.

“There is always the option for a portable charger, but what if there was a solution much more convenient? When I started

Mighty Purse, a lot of women were not aware portable phone chargers existed. Purchasing tech stuff isn’t as exciting as browsing in an accessory store. I took this portable charger idea and just packaged it up for women like me.”

Mighty Purse offers a selection of designer handbag styles in a range of textures, prints and colour ways, fully lined with multiple compartments and credit card slots to hold all the everyday essentials. Genuine leather and vegan options are available. All styles are compatible with both Android and iPhone. From AU$89.95 from mightypurse.com IN YOUR DREAMS Dreams Jewellery is an eclectic collection of jewellery from Western Australia inspired by modernist elements borne from the Industrial Revolution and World War I. These pieces represent art nouveau (1800s through to just before WWI), which is French for ‘new art’, or judendstil, German for ‘youth style’. The jewellery is characterised by organic floral and plantinspired motifs and highly stylised curvilinear forms. Art deco (1920s to mid-1930s) emerged after WWI creating a whole new opulence and extravagance that defined the jazz age and the art deco aesthetic, which is also apparent in these unique pieces made from silver and semi-precious stones.

islandliving | 7 pacific

B E A C H COMBE R

OTTER FAMILY MULTIPLIES Solomon Airlines has boosted their domestic fleet with a third Twin Otter. Meeting traditional increased demand for domestic air services across the Solomon Islands archipelago during the festive season, Solomon Airlines augmented its domestic fleet with the delivery of the DHC - Twin Otter.

The aircraft, registration H4-MAX, arrived in Honiara after a nine-hour journey ex-Cairns via Papua New Guinea with Solomon Airlines captain Lyndah Tito at the helm, accompanied by first officer, Donovan Tanabose and engineer,

Clement Ramoi.

H4-MAX has been pressed into immediate service on the airline’s extensive domestic network which is seen as a vital lifeline for the 992-island archipelago.

Solomon Airlines has leased the aircraft for six months to provide relief coverage for the traditionally busy December/ January) period and additionally, an anticipated increase in domestic traffic in the lead up to the national general election scheduled for March.

SAMOA’S TARO WHISKEY Taro (Colocasia esculenta) is one of the oldest staple foods that grows abundantly in Samoa.

It is a starchy root crop with fibrous brown skin and pink, white or purplish flesh.

Taro root’s benefits come from its rich source of nutrients, which include magnesium, iron, fibre, potassium, manganese, zinc, copper and phosphorus. It contains good amounts of antioxidants, as well as vitamins A, B6, C and E. It is versatile and can be cooked in various ways:

• Boiled, with or without coconut cream; • Baked, using the traditional ‘umu’ oven; or • Fried as chips Besides being a staple food, taro also is culturally significant to Samoans – featuring prominently in homage, feasting and gift-giving ceremonies Using taro root as the base ingredient in Samoa Whiskey is not only a world first, but it also carries cultural meaning for Samoans when celebrating their identity.

ajc-vanuatu.com

contact@ajc-vanuatu.com 1st FLOOR GOVANT BUILDING, 1276 KUMUL HIGHWAY, PORT VILA

8 | Islandliving pacific

DANCE IN WITH A CHANCE The Islands of Tahiti has furthered its application to see ‘Ori Tahiti’ traditional dance, (literally translated as ‘Tahitian dance’), be made part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

A French Polynesian government delegate has visited Paris for discussions with the French culture ministry, which is due to support the application for Ori Tahiti becoming recognised

by UNESCO. This follows the French Polynesians’ assembly who approved a resolution to endorse the campaign earlier this month.

The application will be assessed by President Emmanuel Macron who makes the final decision of which applicants France will submit to UNESCO. Tahitian dance is a beautifully enchanting art that originates from ancient traditions on The Islands of Tahiti. Tahitians express themselves through Ori Tahiti, representing their ancestors through this spiritual art and cultural practice.

In the beginning, Ori Tahiti represented movement and life of the Polynesian people, and now through centuries of storytelling and ancestral interpretation, Ori Tahiti is an expression of the history and the evolution of the Tahitian culture.

If Ori Tahiti is recognised by UNESCO, it will follow the recent recognition of Taputaputatea marae in Raiatea as France’s 44th UNESCO world heritage site, which was awarded in Papeete earlier this month. The Tahitian island of Fakarava is also designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

SAY BULA TO NEW ADVENTURES If relaxing poolside, cocktail in hand is akin to boredom, Nanuku Auberge Resort has you covered. Not only does it

offer said tranquillity, but also an abundance of adrenaline pumping activities for the adventure traveller too!

Located at Pacific Harbour, aka “The Adventure Capital of Fiji”, Nanuku Auberge Resort has over 50 land or sea experiences to quench even the thirstiest adrenaline enthusiast.

Some examples include: • Surfing Frigates Reef • Diving Cage-Less With Bull Sharks • Tandem Sky Diving • White-Water Rafting In addition, Nanuku Auberge Resort offers a myriad of adventures including open-ocean spear-fishing, Raka rugby training, jungle hiking, waterfall hiking, jungle hunting, off-road buggy explorations, heli-goft, jet-skiing, sand-dune boarding, moonlight prawning and so many more.

islandliving | 9 pacific

X XX X X X X X

e c n e g l u Ind

Six Senses Fiji The resort with the lot, private residences with the option of self catering or a meal cooked to perfection by the resort chef.

O

n arrival at Six Senses Fiji a range of accommodation types await you, from one-bedroom villas and suites to larger residences that offer all the comforts of your own private island home. You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to the residences with different locations to choose from as well as a range of floor plans and styles. For the water babies the Beachfront Residences are the perfect spot, with direct beach access so you can jump from bed, to pool, to ocean within minutes. Marina view residences are great alternative waterside lodgings with private marina berths and front row seats to watch underwater creatures making a splash in the marina. If you’re looking for complete island privacy then the ocean view residences are just right for you.

On elevated lots with sprawling ocean views you can forget about the rest of the world and concentrate on enjoying those perfect intimate holiday moments together Each residence is decked out with a fully equipped kitchen and barbecue so you can pop down to the Gourmet Deli for supplies, from gluten free products, to fruit and vegetables grown fresh in the resort gardens, and whip yourself up a delicious meal. Or maybe you’d rather have one of the chefs do the hard work whilst you sit back and relax by your large private pool. For those special occasions or maybe ‘just because’, the resort can arrange an in-residence chef to create a mouth watering feast for you to enjoy in the comfort of your stunning home. When you’re ready to venture out there’s a choice of resort restaurants including the beachfront, Fijian style Tovolea and marina-side RaRa serving seafood and curries. TeiTei is the place for a pizza and you may as well stay for a movie under the stars whilst you’re in the venue.

10 | Islandliving pacific

Residences feature spacious outdoor and indoor living areas, with plenty of room for everyone to gather together.

As the sun begins to set and the stars appear, your bed awaits to carry you into a delightful, peaceful slumber. With ensuites in every single bedroom with a variety of indoor and outdoor showers between rooms, there will be no arguments over bathroom times in the morning. Accommodating for the little ones too, residences also come with the luxury of a complimentary nanny for up to eight hours a day meaning the kids will be well looked, allowing you the chance to try new activities and experiences. Choose from surfing with the Tropicsurf team who are equipped to teach you skills and technique in our all-tide swimming bay or kayaking and snorkeling, excursions and more with the Hauraki Adventures team. Maybe wellness is more your thing in which case Six Senses Spa Fiji is the place for you with an array of treatments and activities including aerial and hatha yoga, guided meditation, singing bowl classes and more. Adding a little culture to your vacation the experiences team are always on hand to offer wood carving lessons, kava tasting sessions or Iguana spotting walks. For the foodies we have a plethora of delicious treats in store including mixology starter classes, pizza making afternoons and a lesson on the Sweets of Six Senses.

Each of the beautiful residences have their own unique character meaning your residence experience at Six Senses Fiji will be one of a kind. Whether it’s a birthday, a friend’s get together or just a well-deserved luxury trip away, residences are the perfect accommodation option for an out-of-theordinary vacation to remember. •

NET ASSETS:

The Web Guide

This issue Georgie Gordon surfs the net and find the ulimate guide to ... surf, food and more.

LUSH PALM Lush Palm is the ultimate surf travel guide, a carefully curated collection of the best surf camps, hotels and resorts around the world.

Whether you’re looking for a remote camp with an epic swell or a beginner’s resort with gentle waves, Lush Palm has tried and tested accommodation from Sri Lanka to Mexico. There’s something for every budget too. Also worth a look are their destination guides on where to surf, stay and play at all the best global surfing locations. lushpalm.com

THIS GIRL CAN ORGANISE Cleaning bloggers are giving beauty bloggers a run for their ‘likes’. Social media Instagram has a new wave of cleaning influences, hoards of devoted fans pore over pics of Mrs Hinch’s gleaming home and religiously follow her tips and tricks. Just as they do for Nicola Lewis otherwise known as This Girl Can Organise, who shares her genius tips for de-cluttering on her website also. Blog posts include ‘How to Pack your Holiday Shoes’ and ‘Tackle the Junk Draw’. thisgirlcanorganise.com

BUDGET BYTES If food and budget in the same sentence has you conjuring up thoughts of baked beans and scrambled eggs on toast then perhaps you’d welcome some inspiration from this great blog. Budget Bytes is brimming with food you just want to eat, it just happens to be frugal friendly.

Not only that, there are heaps of easy week night meals for those short on time as well as cash, such as slow cooker chicken tikka masala or roasted vegetable couscous. budgetbytes.com

THE CUT The Cut is a femalefocused site that covers all the issues relevant to the modern woman.

Style, motherhood, health, ambition and culture are just the tip of the iceberg on this beautifully curated site. From skincare to financial advice The Cut deals with the high and low in equal measure. Stay in the loop on pop-culture, up to the minute fashion, climate change and politics. Not forgetting the odd cute animal video. thecut.com

OMNIVORACIOUS Whether you are a fully fledged book nerd or just looking for your next great read, Omnivoracious has recommendations and reviews to suit everyone. The site is Amazon’s official book review blog with a minimalist and easy to navigate design and plenty of great content, including reviews, plenty of ‘best of’ lists and industry news. Check out ‘Celebrity Picks’ for top author’s favourite books, top new releases and also the best books to buy your kids. amazonbookreview.com

MIGRATIONOLOGY Mark Wiens combines two of our favourite things in this blog: food and travel. His job description? Full time travel eater.

Weins has taken it upon himself to source the best food from around the globe to share it with us. We’re not talking fine dining but the real food that defines a country. From the best Turkish food in Dubai, to the best street food in Japan, this site has it all, even which airlines serve the best on-board meals. migrationology.com

12 | Islandliving pacific

THIS BUD’S FOR YOU. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

BO O K L O O K:

Novel notes

From Nordic noir to sixties rock ‘n’ roll and page-turning thrillers, Georgie Gordon reports.

14 | Islandliving pacific

DAISY JONES AND THE SIX

by Taylor Jenkins Reid (Hutchinson) Daisy Jones and the Six is the story of a band in the 1970’s that will transport you straight to the exciting music scene of that era. The drugs, sex, fans and captivating characters will keep you turning pages well into the night. Daisy Jones and the Six were big, they sold out arenas all over America, and every girl in the country wanted to be Daisy. Then one night, on the final night of a tour, they split.

This is the story of why.

THE FAMILIARS

by Stacey Halls (Zaffre) Set in 1916, this spellbinding tale about female friendship follows 17year old Fleetwood Shuttleworth who has struggled to give her husband an heir. Pregnant for the fourth time she is told she will not survive another pregnancy. Alice Grey, a young midwife, promises to help her and prove the doctors wrong, but when Alice is drawn into witchcraft accusations it is Fleetwood who risks everything to help her.

THE HOLLOW BONES

by Leah Kaminsky (Vintage) Set in Berlin, 1938, on the eve of the war, The Hollow Bones follows Ernst Schäfer, a young zoologist who is invited on a secret mission by Heinrich Himmler, to search for the origins of the Aryan Race. Little does he know this exhibition is a prelude to the unimaginable horror to come.

Through the engrossing story of Schäfer told through the eyes of his ill fated wife, Kaminsky explores how humanity and nature are sacrificed for cold ambition.

ISLANDS

by Peggy Frew (Allen & Unwin) Islands is the riveting tale of a marriage and a family, in crisis. Helen and John are too busy making a mess of their marriage to notice their daughter’s suffering. When 15-year old Anna fails to come home one night her mother waits three days to report her disappearance, expecting her to walk through the door at any moment. But Anna doesn’t, and quickly their bickering doesn’t seem so important.

AN ANONYMOUS GIRL

by Greer Hendricks and Sarah Pekkanen (Macmillan) The second novel from this writing duo won’t disappoint fans of their first, the best-selling The Wife Between Us – both are thrilling page-turners.

An Anonymous Girl is a tale of obsession. It follows Jessica Farris who signs up for a psychology study conducted by the mysterious Dr Shields. As the sessions become more invasive and manipulative, Jessica’s paranoia grows, as does a web of deceit and jealousy. Jessica is hiding something but does Dr Shields know what it is?

AFTER SHE’S GONE

by Camilla Grebe (Zaffre) Winner of the Best Swedish Crime Novel 2017, this spine tingling thriller follows a cold case investigation that is re-opened when a teenage boy finds the diary of a murdered girl. The teenager harbours a dark secret and becomes determined to uncover the truth, meanwhile just as the investigator on the case is getting closer to solving the crime she mysteriously disappears, only to reappear days later with no memory of where she’s been. Nordic-noir at its best.

Our tropical paradise

is waiting for you!

Experience barefoot relaxation at our beautiful 63 FarĂŠ (bungalow), child free resort.

Located on a private beachfront cove at Pango Peninsular in Port Vila, you will find welcoming smiles and your own space to unwind.

We are famous for our beachside dining and outstanding cuisine, come and join us.

Book today through your preferred wholesaler.

Phone 25844 | reservations@breakas.com | www.breakas.com

I S L AN D S TYLE

. . . s d n fi Fiji

The Islands Next Door

Craig Tansley discovers the Yasawa Islands while Craig Osment drops in at the Mamanuca’s luxurious Likuliku resort. Just a short trip from the ‘mainland’ but a world away.

Below: If arriving by boat isn’t your thing then hop on a float plane and arrive at Likuliku in style. Above: the tourquise

16 | Islandliving pacific

blue waters of the Yasawas are perfect for snorkelling, boating and swimming

PICTURES: Craig Osment, Yaswa Islands Resort & Spa and Blue Lagoon Cruises

T

he tiny Cessna taking me to the Yasawa Islands lands with a bounce onto a grassy runway that angles downhill to the sea. It’s not even close to flat – though when I leave here, I’ll notice how pilots use the slope for extra speed to get up over the ocean metres beyond the landing strip.

I’m bundled into a 4WD and driven along a muddy track which winds its way past a village and through a tract of coastal forest by the owner of the Yasawa Island Resort & Spa himself, then escorted to a villa built metres from its own white-sand bay.

Before I’ve had time to look around, I’m taken by speedboat past dozens of deserted beaches flanked by black rock cliffs, rolling grass hills and coconut trees; to a beach for lunch which disappears with the tide. Since I flew out from Nadi, I’ve barely seen another person, except the local bloke free-diving for lobsters for lunch. That’s just the way it is in the Yasawas.

Though the Yasawa Islands start just a few kilometres further north from the Mamanuca Islands (which are closest to Fiji’s main island, Viti Levu) being here’s like travelling back in time.

Only opened to land-based tourism since 1987, even cruise passengers permitted to travel through these islands weren’t always allowed to set foot on land. And so the Yasawas remain some of the most unaffected of all the Fijian islands.

They may be just half an hour away from Nadi by plane, and two hours by ferry from Denarau (depending on where you’re

staying – the northern islands of the Yasawas take longer to get to), but locals still live in traditional villages, and there are no shops, banks or cafes (outside of the resorts).

I’m staying at the Yasawa Island Resort and Spa, and while it’s five-star and I eat seafood cooked for me at a table on the beach, and am beautified at a day spa whose treatment rooms are barely five metres from the sea – all but a handful of the workers here come from the village five minutes drive away. On Sunday, I join them at a church service there, where they’re dressed in neatly pressed trousers, button-up shirts and ties, their hair Brylcreemed sideways and their voices as rich as opera singers.

Who should come to the Yasawas?

The Yasawa Islands have accommodation to suit every type of traveller. In recent times, no-frills flash-packer and backpacker resorts have been built for more intrepid (and younger) travellers. But there are middle-of-the-road three and four-star options for couples and families. Then there’s the five-star offerings. Despite their relative isolation, the Yasawas have for decades been home to some of Fiji’s finest luxury resorts. The most famous of them all is Turtle Island, the first of Fiji’s luxury private island resorts; the vision of American businessman Richard Evanson over 40 years ago. Today it’s still one of Fiji’s

islandliving | 17 pacific

Above: One of the many Yasawa islands which you can cruise through with Captain Cook Cruises. Above right: Sunset at Likuliku from

most exclusive resorts, with space for just 14 couples.

There are numerous excursions and adventures for travellers throughout these islands; but the Yasawas are best for travellers who prefer to leave the normal attractions behind.

You won’t find the bustling bars of Fiji’s Coral Coast here, or the restaurant scene of Denarau.

There’s plenty to do across the 20 islands of the group; though most activities are based around swimming, diving and snorkelling. Surfing is rarely attempted; though I find empty chest-high waves out in front of the Yasawa Island Resort & Spa which have only been surfed by a handful of surfers. Blue Lagoon, the 1980 film starring a teenage Brooke Shields, was filmed at the Sawa-I-Lau caves in the northern Yasawas. I take a boat here to an entrance of a deep chamber at the top of a limestone formation. I hold my breath and swim beneath the cavern into tiny chambers of blue water lit up by sunlight

18 | Islandliving pacific

shining through holes in the limestone ceiling.

Because of its hilly landscape, there are plenty of hikes all over the Yasawas. And there’s kayaking – from quick paddles to multiple-day-and-night tours lauded across the world. The water here teems with sea creatures - visitors can swim with sharks and manta rays. With the rise of backpacker resorts, there’s now night-time options at resort bars – from crab racing to fire dancing and sunset tube cruises; though anyone coming to the Yasawas to party will be disappointed.

The lagoon with the lot

While the Mamanucas are home to islands with modern marinas boasting fancy yacht clubs, bars, restaurants, cafes and grocery stores – and there’s even a floating day bar set just inside the barrier reef – these islands are some of the most pristine in the entire South Pacific. We may well be close

the boardwalk. Below: Yasawa Island Resort & Spa at dusk.

to Nadi here (some islands are barely 20 minutes by ferry from Denarau), but this is where Hollywood comes to depict South Seas desolation.

At Likuliku Lagoon Resort in the Mananucas you’ll find the ultimate in understated island luxury and over-water bures which sit directly above a reef. Likuliku is described as ‘Fiji’s unique luxury escape for couples’ (although it’s the sort of place where a single would feel entirely comfortable). Likuliku means ‘calm waters’ and calm is a state which is exuded here in spades. While the jetty greeting is an ebullient round of bulas with musical accompaniment a pervading sense of peace and tranquillity is what this place is all about. There is plenty on offer for all tastes and levels of aerobic ability but the serenity of the surrounds tempers all activities, not in the spiritual sense that attaches to ‘wellness retreats’ but in a very civilised adult sort of way that comes with thoughtful, personal service and a respect for privacy and personal space. Which is not to say that the staff aren’t wonderfully welcoming and engaged, in fact I don’t think I’ve been anywhere where the people assigned to ensuring that their guests’ expectations are met are more genuinely proud of the levels of service and warmly embracing of their clients. I suspect this authentic concern is a direct result of the employees having ‘skin in the game’ as they say in business circles. Likuliku employs many of the local villagers who are direct recipients of the land charges on the resort’s leasehold land as well as a percentage of all sales and an education fund, so in turn have a sense of ownership and a sincere interest in seeing that every holiday is a memorable success for both sides.

The typical Melanesian affability is boosted by a remarkable facility to remember every guest’s name and greet you with a personal bula every time they encounter you whether walking through the grounds or in the restaurant or at sunset cocktails or on one of the many boat trips you’d be advised to take if you really want a sense of Pacific place. Likuliku has perfected both ends of the phrase ‘hospitality industry’ in that they have managed the perfect fusion of the congenial and the commercial. This is one slick and professional operation but without the conceit of anything even slightly fraudulent about the sincerity of the bonhomie. Everyone here seems to be enjoying themselves from the guy raking the leaves to the worldly, amusing and urbane Steve Anstey, the group general manager of Ahura Resorts which is the company which operates the property. Some of this pride in service and delight in the place must come down to the very real awareness expressed by the operators about the natural environment which they inhabit. It’s more than just a nod to fashionable concern about eco-systems and growing huggable trees, here they’ll take you on a medicine walk where your guide will point out a dozen local arboreal species with traditional medicinal qualities all growing within the grounds, there’s a virtual pharmacy outside the door to your bure which the locals have made use of for centuries.

This consideration of the environment extends to every

islandliving | 19 pacific

20 | Islandliving pacific

Fijiana Restaurant. This is a vast, traditionally designed indoor/ outdoor space adjacent to the foyer, which is in the style of a Fijian canoe house, it catches both views and breezes. Fresh, clean and creative, Executive Chef Shane Watson showcases Likuliku’s cuisine with the finest local and international produce with an emphasis on local seafood, lush tropical fruits, premium product and the diversity of cultures that shape the South Pacific.

One of the must-do things from among the many excursions on offer is a picnic lunch on nearby Honeymoon Island, a deserted dot of palm fringed beach inhabited by six goats and whoever you take along for lunch. Watson prepares a very upmarket hamper with a wide choice of menu options from which we chose the antipasto selection and a good rosé.

Also on offer and not to be missed is the three-hour morning Island Hopping boat trip which takes you around some of the more interesting islands in the Mamanuca group, from Monuriki, the one made famous by being the location for the Tom Hanks’ movie Castaway, to Mana and Matamanoa to others with discreet boutique resorts, deserted beaches and snorkelling and diving spots, and there are coffee, croissants and muffins to keep you going until you return for breakfast.

On top of the various boat trips, there’s Hobie sailing, paddle boarding, snorkelling straight from the balcony of your overwater bure, scuba diving, water skiing, wake boarding, windsurfing, fishing (outside the preservation area), walks and tours to the local village; where we, and our offering, were warmly welcomed at the Sunday church service which is worth the short boat ride for the singing alone. There’s also the Tatadra Spa offering a full menu of pampering massages and treatments as well as a gym for those who like to do it indoors.

Then there’s the indomitable and serene Tulia Seru, the

PICTURES: Kate Ballis.

aspect of what they do (they even take the resort laundry offshore so as not to pollute the local area) and out of a desire to preserve the very things that attract those of us who pay to play here. The surrounding waters and reef are part of a marine reserve and it is forbidden to remove any part of it, fishing and coral collection within this area is not allowed.

In addition there is a turtle breeding ground, a mangrove preservation area and a dry forest regeneration program underway as well as a world-renowned attempt to revive the future of what was thought to be an extinct iguana via the Fijian Crested Iguana Program which is run in conjunction with both Sydney’s Taronga Zoo and the San Diego Zoo. There’s even a seven-point list of dos and don’t when snorkelling included in the comprehensive guest compendium designed to help you protect the reef while you’re enjoying a float over the spectacular sea life and marvellous colourful corals.

Apart from the ten overwater bures there is a selection of spacious beachfront bures the deluxe versions of which feature personal plunge pools. All have extensive decks, lavish bathrooms and outdoor covered lounging spaces as well as direct access to the golden sand beach lapped by pale green clear water. They also include a walled outdoor shower area at the rear and plenty of air-conditioned and fan-cooled indoor living space as well as desks and free WiFi connection. In another nice touch each room includes a his ‘n’ hers Pure Fiji amenities pack of sumptuous, uniquely packaged skin and hair care products plus a signature sarong or pareo.

My personal measure of the calibre of my accommodation is the quality of the bathrooms and the breakfasts. Likuliku measures up on both fronts with huge, beautifully appointed bathrooms and fabulous combination buffet and à la carte breakfast choices served in the resort’s only dining area, the

The essentials

Getting there: The Mamunucas can be accessed via regular ferry service from Denarua Marina or water taxi, www.mamanucaexpress.com, or by air. The Yasawas can be accessed by a daily ferry service, or flights www.islandhoppersfiji.com Staying there: Yasawa Island Resort & Spa is located on the northern tip of the Yasawas and the only way in is by air, www.yasawa.com, Likuliku Lagoon Resort: www.likulikulagoon.com

Fiji Aiways: www.fijiairways.com

Palm fringed beaches, coral reefs and clear waters, perfect for snorkelling.

resort manager, she’s the perfect dinner companion and good for a pre-dinner sunset cocktail at the Masima Bar (on its own small island accessed by footbridge) while watching the torch lighting ceremony. She’ll fill you in on her Fijian culture and

history over a coco mojito while her ever-vigilant eye ensures that everything is running smoothly and to perfection.

The perfect total immersion, exclusive adults only, five star island experience. •

AHU2132 -IT

Fiji’s first and only authentic over-water bures.

Luxury. A special place in a magical location for adults only. Proudly Fijian owned and traditionally designed amidst a pristine and protected natural environment, surrounded by azure ocean.

For reservations and information visit www.likulikulagoon.com or Telephone +(679) 672 0978 Email: likulikures1@ahuraresorts.com

Stay 7 nights and receive free helicopter, seaplane or private speedboat transfers*.

Or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive a sixth night FREE. From AUD $620pp* per night including all meals.

Conditions apply. Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

*

S U R F • DIV E • S K I

Surf, Dive and Ski c fi i c a P h the Sout

in

Deborah Dickson-Smith rounds up the best surf and dive spots in Samoa, Solomon Islands, Fiji and Vanuatu.

Above: Shark dive in Fiji; Below Left: Bligh Water Mellow Yellow; Below right: The Mamanucas are home to some of the

world’s best waves.

PICTURES: Thomas Vignaud; Diveplanit; Tourism Fiji

T

he islands of the South Pacific are as varied as they are vast, a mix of tall volcanic peaks and lush green interiors, coral cays and white sandy beaches surrounded by turquoise lagoons and some of the longest barrier reefs in the world. All of this adds up to great surf breaks, stunning underwater landscapes and some exhilarating downhill skiing.

Surf…

Fiji is home to one of the seven wonders of the surfing world: Cloud Break, and there are plenty more decent surf breaks in the Mamanuca Islands and along the Coral Coast including Frigates Passage, just outside Beqa Lagoon.

Cloudbreak, made famous by the likes of 11-time World Surf League champion Kelly Slater, was once the exclusive domain of well-heeled surfers able to pay the hefty daily rate to stay at the Tavarua Island Surf Resort. While the resort

continues to control access to this legendary surf break, you can now surf Cloud Break while staying on one of the nearby Mamanuca Island Resorts such as Barefoot Kuata Resort or Six Senses Fiji. The best resort for Frigates on the Coral Coast is Waidroka Bay Resort, a surf, dive and yoga retreat situated directly opposite the surf break.

If it’s uncrowded waves you’re after, on a surf trip to the Solomon Islands you will probably be the only surfers in the water and you might even get naming rights. Surf’s up between November to April, and Gizo is one of the most accessible surfing destinations, with surf trips run by Fatboys and Sanbis Resort. Arguably the Solomon’s best wave, Tai, is found on the island of Malaita at Solwata surf camp and there are also world-class waves on Santa Isobel at Papatura Island Retreat.

Uncrowded waves can also be found in remote Papua New

islandliving | 23 pacific

Dive Munda and Solomon Island Discovery cruises offer the best way to explore Solomon Islands dive and surf.

24 | Islandliving pacific

Dive…

With rich biodiversity in the north, volcanic islands in the south, and hundreds of WWII wrecks, the South Pacific is an underwater paradise for scuba divers.

Situated at the eastern tip of the Coral Triangle, the reefs surrounding Papua New Guinea and Solomon Islands boast incredible biodiversity and both countries were also the scene of some fierce naval battles during WWII, so the lagoons are littered with wrecks.

The passage of water by the Solomon’s Guadacanal in particular contains so may WWII wrecks it has been renamed ‘Iron Bottom Sound, and in fact, wrecks are still being discovered quite frequently, some in very deep water, others accessed a short swim from shore. One of the easiest ways to get to the Solomon Island’s best waves is on a Solomon

PICTURES: David Kirkland; Klaus Obermeyer

Guinea (PNG), with some of the best, near Kavieng in the New Ireland Province, between November and April.

In Samoa, the best year-round breaks can be found on the south coast of both main islands, with hotspots including Lano and Nananoa Beach, and between December to March on the north coast at Manase and Fagamolo. The south coast’s best breaks are within easy reach of both Coconuts Beach Club & Spa and Sinalei Reef Resort.

Tonga has two very distinct seasons for surfing, with a consistent north swell from November to March, south swell from April to October and plenty of reef breaks to be found along the coast of Ha’atafu, the most famous of which is ‘Corners’ which breaks in both summer and winter.

Surfing is in its infancy as a recreation in Vanuatu, however there are some decent breaks off Efaté at Breaka’s Beach Resort and nearby Pango and Erakor Points.

Island Discovery Cruise, a seven-day cruise around the Florida and Russell Islands which offers surfing, stand up paddle boarding, kayaking, free diving and scuba diving for passengers.

Gizo, Munda and Uepi in the Solomon’s Western Provinces have some of prettiest coral reefs; dive sites with names such as ‘Grand Central Station’ and ‘Alice in Wonderland’ give you an idea of the busy and beautiful underwater world you’re likely to see.

Fiji has long been famous as the ‘Soft Coral Capital of the World’, with five soft coral hot spots around its 300 islands, including the Rainbow Reef in Taveuni and Bligh Water north of Viti Levu, some of the most colourful reefs you’re ever likely to see, however these days Fiji is even more famous for its shark dives.

Fiji now has four shark dive experiences, with three in Beqa Lagoon and one in the Yasawa Islands. In the Yasawa Islands, Barefoot Kuata Resort’s ‘The Awakening’ shark dive can even be experienced by non-divers as an introductory ‘Discover Scuba Dive’. Each shark feeding site attracts a range of species including nurse sharks, reef sharks and bull sharks, with Beqa Lagoon Resort’s ‘Cathedral’ shark dive also attracting tiger sharks.

At over 180 metres in length, the SS President Coolidge is one of the largest ship wrecks in the world, and has been attracting divers to Vanuatu’s Espiritu Santo since the 1980s.

Divers have been known to spend an entire week exploring the wreck’s hidden treasures, jeeps in the cargo hold, medicine supplies in the surgery and ‘The Lady’ a bas-relief of an Elizabethan lady and her horse located in the ship’s old dining room – it’s traditional to give her a kiss. Coral Quays Resort offers fantastic diver accommodation and tech diving, courses and dives on secret reefs around the island.

… and ski.

The South Pacific is not the first place you think of for a skiing holiday, however the volcanic landscape of New Zealand offers some of the world’s most exhilarating downhill runs, and people have even been known to ski down the black volcanic ash slopes of Vanuatu’s Mt Yasur, an active volcano on the island of Tanna.

New Zealand’s largest ski area is on the North Island at Mt Ruapehu, also on the slopes of an active volcano, but on a more traditional white surface. It’s the largest active volcano in New Zealand and home to two mountain resorts; Whakapapa and Turoa.

The South Island has an even greater variety of mountain resorts including Coronet Peak and The Remarkables in Queenstown, nearby Cardrona and Treble Cone and Canterbury’s Mt Hutt, all of which have a wide variety of terrain with runs suitable for everyone from beginner slopes to hard core heli-skiing.•

islandliving | 25 pacific

S U R F • DIV E • S K I

Fiji Cruising, m a e r D s ’ r e v o L e v i D

a

Dive at different and untouched locations each day, with Captain Cook Cruises visiting some world class dive spots and offering guests

“Diving on the Reef Endeavour is a must. You visit so many more locations than you could from a resort – all different, all interesting and the dive crew can pretty much select dive sites for your preference – drift, macro, wide-angle, shark, swim-throughs – all in great visibility. We never saw another dive boat, let alone had to share a dive site. Fantastic!”

F

iji offers thousands of unique dive sites and you can experience the very best of them and access the most remote and pristine areas of Fiji onboard Captain Cook Cruises small ship MV Reef Endeavour. The three, four and seven-night Mamanuca and Yasawa Island Cruises, seven Night Colonial and Four Cultures Discovery Cruises and 11 night Lau and Kadavu cruise are available year round.

Dive at different and untouched locations each day, with cruises visiting some world class dive spots and offering guests two dives each day, always in different locations. Dive groups are small in numbers and dives last about 40 minutes. All scuba diving is operated by Viti Water Sports, a PADI 5 Star Dive Centre, which caters for certified, occasional and first-time divers.

First time divers can learn to dive onboard, practicing all the basics skills in the pool and then experiencing their first open water dive in the warm clear waters.

Every dive is different, from swimming through caves and canyons, over breathtaking coral gardens, to wall diving and diving through amazing marine life including pelagics and sharks.

26 | Islandliving pacific

According to Captain Cook Cruises passenger and avid diver, Mike Agnew, “Diving on the Reef Endeavour is a must.

You visit so many more locations than you could from a resort – all different, all interesting and the dive crew can pretty much select dive sites for your preference – drift, macro, wide-angle, shark, swim-throughs – all in great visibility. We never even saw another dive boat, let alone had to share a dive site. Fantastic!”

Diving the Raiyawa, Captain Cook Cruises Fiji’s newest dive site just off Tivua Island is also on most cruise itineraries.

Raiyawa has been turned into a wreck divers dream. Offering an exciting dive for advanced divers, the wreck appears like a ghost ship as you descend through the rich, misty waters.

“MV Raiyawa was a great dive. Easy descent (and ascent) along the bow-line, lots of fish around and in the wreck, spooky nooks and crannies and plenty of cut-outs to allow safe penetration through big or small hatches. I thoroughly recommend it as a dive.” Says Mike.

For further information and bookings visit www.captaincookcruisesfiji.com •

two dives each. day, always in different locations.

Be free at Malolo!

Malolo Island Resort is about a bure near the beach, surrounded by the world’s friendliest people with a living and authentic culture. Perfect for families and couples alike, you can fill your day with a myriad of activities or simply unwind and do nothing at all.

Year round choose from F$200 resort credits, Kids Eat FREE with 5 night stays, or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive 1 extra night FREE!

AHU2481/VT–HPH

Malolo. This is the way the world should be.

T +679 672 0978 | malolores1@ahuraresorts.com www.maloloisland.com

250

For reservations and information visit www.maloloisland.com *Conditions apply.

Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

islandliving | 27 pacific

S U R F • DIV E • S K I

m Beran Island a e r d s ’ A surfer Beran Island Resort has hosted big name surfers and celebrities but it too has a laid back feel to it, it does feel exclusive however, not many

S

urfers will travel anywhere on the promise of great waves and good times, whilst Beran Island is a bit of a journey there’s a reason some of the world’s elite surfing fraternity ensure they hit this place up, unbelievable water and waves, a stunning private 45-acre island, five star service and no more than 16 guests at a time, it’s every surfer’s dream location.

Owner Martin Daly has been navigating the world on his Indies Trader fleet of vessels, searching for the perfect wave has been his quest for many years, his eye for detail and adventurous spirit has had him end up here in the Marshall Islands, Beran Island Resort is a passion project that he has masterfully pulled off and then some.

The Marshall Islands are about as remote as you can get, most know and certainly older Marshallese will remember the post-war atomic tests such as the famous Bikini Atoll explosion, where an entire fleet of captured and retired warships was obliterated in a single blast. There is also a persistent, but lesser known story surrounding the disappearance of Amelia Earhart in 1938, which places her forced landing in the Marshalls.

28 | Islandliving pacific

Getting to Beran from Australia you travel on Nauru Airlines ex Brisbane, When landing at Wotje airport you can be reminded that your’re no longer in the first world. The runway is straight off the reef, with a little more grass than coral but it’s all part of the adventure, you can’t expect to get to a place like this without a bit of rough and ready.

Often before you before check-in, even before you lay eyes on the resort, you will be on a boat heading for what promises to be some truly magnificent surf. Beran Island Resort has hosted big name surfers and celebrities but it too has a laid back feel to it, it does feel exclusive however, not many people around ensures you can design the perfect break away on this secluded paradise. The island offers several charter boats, which take guests out fishing, diving or surfing. A floating hotel of sorts, you can surf all day without needing to go back on shore with lunch and snacks catered for.

A week at Beran feels like a month and it would be difficult for anyone to leave, this is a surf, dive haven for anyone wanting to switch off and ride endless waves with no one around. •

PICTURES: Damea Dorsey.

“A week at Beran feels like a month and it would be difficult for anyone to leave, this is a surf, dive haven for anyone wanting to switch off and ride endless waves with no one around.”

people around ensures you can design the perfect break away on this secluded paradise.

An experience like no other ...

Stay for a day, a night or a week to experience the “Awakening Shark Dive� at Barefoot Kuata, Yasawa Islands, Fiji Email us at info@bfcfiji.com or visit www.barefootkuatafiji.com

islandliving | 29 pacific

S U R F • DIV E • S K I

HannagBennett e t a c o v d a Surfin

Hannah’s favourite waves to ride are in Tavarua and Cloudbreak in Fiji and the North Shore in Hawaii, but her ultimate is the Lighthouse in Suva. By Rebecca Murphy.

H

annah Bennett is lucky enough to call Fiji home. When I spoke with her recently, she was spending some time at her remote island retreat, a truly idyllic paradise known as Rotuma, 646 kilometres north of Nadi (the most remote island within the Fijian group). She has that beautiful relaxed island girl nature, with a passion for her home country and all it affords her with.

Hannah, 24 has been an avid surfer from the age of nine realising her fierce enthusiasm for surfing and her environment which paved her way to a very successful career as a prosurfer, competition director for the Fiji Surfing Association (FSA), and Brand Ambassador for Fiji’s famed Vonu Beer for over a year.

Hannah’s other focus is also being an advocate and ambassador for Mamanuca Environmental Society (MES) in Fiji.

“I’ve been a part of this for the past ten years, I’ve recently joined them on their latest project on Tavarua Island for the giant clam rescue project,” she said.

Hannah is based in Suva, after realising she wanted to be based at home in Fiji this was the best place for training and

30 | Islandliving pacific

being close to her family, she says.

Hannah has been competitively surfing for eight years primarily in Fiji, Japan, Hawaii, USA, and Australia.

When asked about being an ambassador for Vonu Beer, she said it all made sense really.

“If you know anything about the brand it’s all connected with lifestyle and the environment, it’s more about where the beer is, and me of course. I love my country and I like what the brand does outside of just being a beer, it has a social conscience.”

Hannah has a beautiful presence about her, she’s passionate about her sport and what she believes in “there are so many female surfers coming out of Fiji, I hope that the trend continues and I hope I can raise awareness that the surf and the environment we live in needs to be nurtured”.

Hannah’s favourite waves to ride are in Tavarua and Cloudbreak in Fiji and the North Shore in Hawaii, but her ultimate is the Lighthouse in Suva. Take a look at www.vonu. com to get some real insight to what this match made in heaven have been working on. •

Fiji’s highest rated luxury resort.

Tokoriki Island Resort is Fiji’s most awarded adults-only boutique island resort and the perfect destination for your next tropical escape. Enjoy our beautiful food, luxury spa, amazing diving & absolute beachfront accommodation.

Visit tokoriki.com or call +679 672 5927

islandliving | 31 pacific

F E E T- IN - TH E -S AN D LU X URY

s a k a e r B

Switch off and The story behind Breakas is a romantic one. Originally a private home on the Pango Peninsula outside Vanuatu’s capital Port Vila, the owner gifted the property to his new bride and together they built what is now Breakas Beach Resort. A number of expansions, a new chef and great management have ensured Breakas remains one of Vanuatu’s most popular, yet understated resorts. Tiffany Carroll checked it out.

Below: Breakas’ fares are light and airy, with local timber furnishings and outdoor bathrooms. Located on a gorgeous surf beach just 10

enjoy the sunset minutes from the main street of Port Vila, Breakas’ is renowned for its service, fantastic food and relaxed atmosphere.

PICTURE: Breakas Beach Resort, David Kirkland.

T

he power goes out in Vanuatu. It happens, in fact it happens all over the Pacific, it’s just part of life in the islands. But when it went out at Breakas Beach Resort, with guests seated by the pool enjoying dinner and a live band, the electric insturments stopped, but the band didn’t. They simply started singing acapella.

I had just checked in and already felt at home. The view from reception stretches beyond the infinity pool and out across the surf break on to the horizon. I’d missed the sunset and the receptionist apologised as if it was his fault.

Local Ni-Vanuatu children were playing on the beach next door, the power restored, couples were spread along the waterside dining tables. The staff chatting to all guests, ensuring the power outage hadn’t caused an inconvenience – it hadn’t.

Breakas markets itself and three and a half stars only, “we don’t pretend to be anything else,” general manager Isaac Boyle tells me.

“It’s feet in the sand luxury, it’s the only beach resort close to town and we just concentrate on doing a good job.”

Immediately it feels more than 3.5 stars, the location is stunning, the oversized pool is beautiful and the welcome is genuinely friendly.

Over the next two days I would stay in one of Breakas beachfront fares. The rooms are airy and minimally furnished allowing you to take in the sweeping beachfront views. The semi outdoor bathrooms are gorgeous, you can shower under the trees or stars and sleep soundly in the fan-cooled rooms listening the gentle waves breaking on the reef.

islandliving | 33 pacific

Above: Helicopters can land on the beach at Breakas – champagne picnic lunch anyone? The casual bar (above right) serves up great

Breakas is one of those resorts where you’re encouraged to do absolutely nothing. Laze by the pool, snorkel in the ocean, go in to town if you must, but the emphasis is all about relaxation.

It’s adults-only, the staff is attentive and keen to learn about you – more than just where are you from and how long are you here, their interest is genuine and engaging.

The resort is popular among locals and expats too, thanks to it’s fabulous restaurant. Italian chef Paolo Zanella is at the helm. Paolo arrived in Vanuatu from Dubai and has brought with him a sophisticated menu and cutting edge style. His steak is the best I’ve ever eaten in Vanuatu – served with a balsamic reduction the steak was so tender it could be carved with a butter knife. The resort also makes fabulous cocktails and hosts a Melanesian night each week were you can try kava and enjoy a tradtional cultural show.

Breakas Beach Resort offers 63 fares, all fan cooled, all with beach access. Air Vanuatu flies from Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and New Caledonia to Port Vila. For more information go to www.breakas.com •

34 | Islandliving pacific

cocktails by friendly staff (say hi to Mantai!) and sit waterside (below) for a magical dinner.

islandliving | 35 pacific

PA CIF I C PE O PLE

A Few Of My Favourite Things Vomo’s general manager Mark Leslie has worked at some of the world’s leading resorts. Here he shares some of his treasures from a life of travel.

ROCKS BAR SUNSET There are sunsets and then there are Fijian Sunsets. Some of the most spectacular sunsets are at our very own Rocks Bar. On the western tip of the islandi, sipping on one of VOMO’s array of Mojitos with Fijian Rum, home-grown mint and fruits and listening to the soft gentle lapping of the waves, this defines absolute paradise.

COCO DE MERE My love of Islands and palms trees has been ingrained in me since I was young. For my eighth birthday my parents took me to the Seychelles where I witnessed the true beauty of white sandy beaches and swaying palms. Fast forward 40 years, I found myself back in the Seychelles and back to one of the only two islands in the world that has the ever mysterious coco de mere tree. The nut is the largest and heaviest nut in the world and with the inability to float, the tress have been preserved and protected on these stunning granite islands.

PICTURES: Renee and Mark Leslie.

INDIAN SPICE TRAY Who doesn’t love a good, flavoursome curry or the delicate flavour of spice? Throughout my travels, I have managed to immerse myself in understanding the true flavours of the country and the linkage back to the famous ‘spice route’ where spices drove the world economy. My spice try sits proud on my kitchen bench and is used almost every day from turmeric smoothies to a hint of cinnamon in my morning oats, from chai teas to hot flavoursome curries.

CROCODILE MASK During one of my Cairo to Cape Town 4WD adventures, I visited Burkina Faso. I was invited to a ceremony where they were wearing these striking wooden crocodile masks. It is handcrafted by the Nuna people and are worn on top of their heads during dance ceremonies to represent the water spirit, guarantor of fertility and prosperity. I later found one in a stunning small boutique in Franschhoek, South Africa and I couldn’t resist.

36 | Islandliving pacific

ARTISAN JEWELLERS SINCE 1981

ELEGANCE | QUALITY | STYLE

Precious Metal & Gems Dealer.

No Duty, 100% Designed and Made in Vanuatu www.vanuatubijouterie.com | Facebook: Vanuatu Bijouterie – Fine Jewellery | WhatsApp: (678) 7112 065

FA S HION FLASH

SKI LIFE MAGAZINE Print 11 x 14 $12.99 www.vintagesnow.net

TEMPLA Verba quilted down-filled coat £1,728 www.matchesfashion.com

Hot‘n’Cold CARRERA Epica ski sunglasses $355 www.mytheresa.com

38 | Islandliving pacific

MOON BOOT Monaco faux fur-lined shell and faux leather snow boots $273 www.net-a-porter.com

Prices in AU$ unless otherwise specified.

Olivia Waugh looks at what’s hot to wear for both versions of skiing – winter and summer.

MONCLER GRENOBLE beanie patch T-shirt $390 www.farfetch.com

KASK Chrome Mirror Visor and Helmet $618.23 www.harrods.com

FALKE ERGONOMIC SPORT SYSTEM SK4 wool-blend ski socks $69.39 www.net-a-porter.com

MONCLER Beanie AU$515.41 www.fwrd.com

PERFECT MOMENT Polar down ski jacket $1,105 www.mytheresa.com

PERFECT MOMENT Ski jumper $357 www.farfetch.com

PERFECT MOMENT Rainbow Racing ski trousers £515 www.matchesfashion.com

Bogner Mona Leather Mittens $278.96 www.harrods.com

islandliving | 39 pacific

HAWAII, BIG WAVE SURF vintage travel poster US$17.75 www.redbubble.com

Surf’s Up

CYNTHIA ROWLEY high tide wetsuit $445 www.farfetch.com

40 | Islandliving pacific

THE UPSIDE Logo-embroidered neoprene tote £139 www.matchesfashion.com

VETEMENTS Sticker Slides $1,207.15 www.fwrd.com

SOLID & STRIPED + RE/DONE The Malibu cropped color-block rash guard $103.42 www.net-a-porter.com

SOLID & STRIPED + RE/DONE The Malibu two-tone bikini briefs $103.42 www.net-a-porter.com HURLEY WOMENS PHANTOM 3mm Chest Zip Wetsuit $774.56 www.bythebooklc.com

HYPTO KRYPTO MARBLE COLLECTION SURFBOARD – BLACK ONYX $1,800.00 haydenshapes.com

OLIVER PEOPLES x Byredo $644.27 www.fwrd.com

CLOCKWORK ORANGE $54.99 blem.com.au

DUSKII Caipirinha cropped rash top $95 www.farfetch.com

islandliving | 41 pacific

DE COR

Tropical Tastes Surf-Rider, John Chillingworth $263.00 www.photos.com

Noughts and Crosses game in storage bag $99.95 www.countryroad.com.au

42 | Islandliving pacific

Clique, design, seating and side tables: F. Rota. see www.paolalenti.it for details

Prices in AU$ unless otherwise specified.

Olivia Waugh rounds up a collection of stylish items to enhance any tropical lifestyle.

Cabanne Paola Lenti (Cabana) see: dedece.com/paola-lenti/cabanne-1 for details Maison Sarah Lavoine Suspension Sicilia Sarah Blue lampshade A$338 https://en.smallable.com

Fan Palm Leaf $169.00 https://www.lisasarah.com

Trellis Green Doormat $89.00 www.terraceoutdoorliving.com.au Bloomingville Deck Chair Green/White striped ÂŁ89.00 www.purpleholly.co.uk

RaphaelPentagon side table $245 www.papaya.com.au

islandliving | 43 pacific

O CE A NIC CR E ATIV E S

2018

Pacific Runway Dusk Devi Nand showcases the best of our Pacific fashion creatives who are fresh from the success of the latest Pacific Runway show at Sydney’s stylish Carriageworks.

“Pacific Runway has grown to be a significant industry-renowned showcase and a greatly anticipated social event for the Australian

PICTURES: Dusk Devi Nand

P

acific Runway is Australia’s most prestigious platform for Oceanic fashion creatives. The event’s purpose is to draw attention to the burgeoning Pacific fashion industries and to open dialogue about their potential influence on the global fashion stage, a possibility that was only a whispered rumour until event founder Jannike Seiuli started the conversation in 2012.

Since then Pacific Runway has grown to be a significant industry-renowned showcase and a greatly anticipated social event for the Australian based Pacific diaspora.

Hosted by Carriageworks on October 26th, as part of its annual program and its second major fashion event (MercedesBenz Fashion Week Australia being its first), Pacific Runway’s consumer and industry popularity proves that the conversation has merit. Australia IS ready to open its retail doors to Pacific origin fashion ... which is more than sarongs, kaftans and cultural motif souvenir wear.

Pacific origin designers showcase their Urban/Resort collections to Pacific and non-Pacific audiences eager to discover a new source of fashion product. Those who have experienced Pacific-origin fashion, know to expect that unique cultural influence and global hybrid style is what Pacific designers are famed for within their own creative zones.

Although currently primarily a general public event, Pacific Runway is attended by Australian and Pacific fashion and media industry personnel as well as high profile personalities and social media influencers.

Influencer and current face of Country Road Men, Jordan Turner said, “It was a spellbinding night of Pacific magic.

Personalities, character, and culture (that Australia so often lacks) shone bright. It was a reminder that a runway is not just about fashion, but also about who is wearing your clothes.”

He added, “Seiuli has brought some of the most talented

46 | Islandliving pacific

Janet Laird Maor

Pacific designers to the international forefront, and it makes me feel so proud of what the Pacific has to share. We need to watch Fijian designer Samson Lee, a highlight collection of the night.”

Another deeply appreciated highlight of the show is the multicultural runway. Diversity may be the fashion industry ‘trending’ buzzword, but Pacific Runway shows that diversity is the norm.

Models from different backgrounds – primarily but not just Pacific – graced, strutted and tore up the runway, bringing to life each designer’s vision. It was a marvellous ‘shake-up’ for the Australian audiences who are not used to seeing actual diversity, or rather inclusivity on an Australian runway, and not just in skin colour but shape and size too.

Vogue Australia’s Sustainability Editor Clare Press said, “At Pacific Runway, the models also told a story, one of inclusion, diversity and a celebration of the female form that is not bound

by a cultural expectation of either sameness or extreme skinniness.

“These girls of all shapes and sizes exuded a joy and sass that’s often lacking on the catwalk. Note to the big fashion weeks: Seiuli’s casting directors are streets ahead.”

Pacific Runway is also a great opportunity for Pacific designers to demonstrate how (by using traditional methods and cultural influences) they are at the forefront of ethical and sustainability practices, another fashion industry hot topic.

Designers Sheenz (by Sheena Taivairanga) and Janet Laird Designs both create consciously, the former through deliberate ethical sourcing and the latter through recycling every day materials, hi-tech mesh turns out to be material a bit more down to earth (eg. non slip rubber mats and lingerie wash bags).

In keeping with its platform of inclusivity and a mark of respect, each year Pacific Runway invites an Indigenous Australian designer to open the show. This year’s show was

based Pacific diaspora.”

Kirrikin Australia

Mena Samoa

islandliving | 47 pacific

opened by luxury resort wear brand Kirrikin. Brand manager Kym Lester, said, “The main obstacle is getting visibility in a complex, saturated market.

Buyers and media no longer seek, they expect to be shown.

“That is why the Pacific Runway is critical and why it is proving successful.

Pacific Runway has carved its presence in the market representing Pacific Fashion.

Pacific Runway is smashing down the obstacles and clearing the path for us all.”

The 2018 show was a sold out event, as will be Pacific Runway 2019 (October).

One day Pacific Runway will be Pacific Fashion Week and then one day, Pacific designers will be department stores draw-cards and household names, not just in the Pacific.

It is not just plausible, it is happening. www.pacificrunway.com.au IG & FB @pacificrunway •

Samson Lee

Sheenz

“One day Pacific Runway will be Pacific Fashion Week and then one day, Pacific designers will be department store draw-cards and

”Unique cultural influence and global hybrid style is what Pacific designers are famed for within their own creative zones.”

Samson Lee 48 | Islandliving pacific

Tabu

Tabu

Zuba

household names, not just in the Pacific.�

Zuba

Sheenz islandliving | 49 pacific

B E AU TY S POT

50 | Islandliving pacific

Beauty Trends y l g u e h t d n a d a b e h t ,

the good

Georgie Gordon offers tips on how to stay on trend without going off the deep end.

Scrunchies

It’s been a slow burn this trend. When this polarising hair accessory so popular in the 80’s, started popping up again there were equal cries of derision and ridicule (the latter mainly from the camp that were toddlers when scrunchies first came about.) However, with a little help from Balenciaga and Ganni, two designers who embraced the scrunchie, and some time to let the reality of the revival sink in, we have learnt to love them again. Not least because they are fantastic at keeping your hair up, and they don’t leave that annoying kink that regular elastics do.

Coloured eye-shadow

It’s been a big year for coloured eye-shadow with pretty much every colour in the rainbow (and some that aren’t) presented to us as the NEXT BIG THING. The most recent being aqua.

Now, if you look like Debbie Harry did in the Blondie era then by all means go ahead and pack it on. If not, resign yourself to the fact that the only really flattering shades are subtle taupes and browns, designed to gently shadow and accentuate the eye. Side note: the only time yellow eyeshadow is acceptable is if you are faking a sick day to wag work.

Brown Lipstick

As popular in the 90’s as ‘the Jennifer’ hairdo, brown lipstick has come back in a big way. There are a few factors to consider here: In its original iteration, worn by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Drew Barrymore and Brittany Spears back in the day, the lipstick was matte and matte lipstick can be quite ageing for anyone over 25; secondly, it depends how dark you go, chocolate is going to pull all the attention to your lips. The best way to embrace this trend is with a subtle gloss.

And under no circumstances should you try and revive the other big 90’s lip trend – brown lip liner with frosted pink gloss.

Shudder.

Crazy nails

Social media platform Instagram has brought us many wonderful things, succulent nails is not one of them. Growing miniature plants on your fingers may seem strange, but not compared to faux fur manicures or having Donald Trump painted on your talons. These are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to recent nail trends and quite frankly they have

us pining for the days when stripper nails (hot pink acrylics) were as bad as it got. Bring back the French manicure, please.

Rainbow hair

Done well coloured hair (and we’re not talking your regular dye job) can be beautiful. Case in point is model Fernanda Ly whose delicately hued pink locks have become her signature and won her gigs with the likes of Louis Vuitton. Home dye jobs of blue, pink or even green are diabolical at best. Proceed with caution. Mermaid or unicorn hair, which translates as a multi coloured pastel mane, should only be attempted if you don’t have a job, or children, such is the upkeep.

Glitter everything

The rise of ‘festival dressing’ has done us no favours on the glitter front. Sparkles are rife in the form of glitter hairspray, make-up and even skin-care products. You could wash with a gurney gun, burn down your house and move to the other side of the county and you still won’t be rid of the wretched stuff. Not only that, it’s terribly bad for the environment, all those little plastic particles can end up in the ocean with hazardous results to marine life. Ban the sparkle.

Skip care

The latest trend to come out of the capital of beauty land I.e.

Korea is skip-care. Just as the name suggests it involves doing away with a rigorous and unnecessary beauty routine and sticking to the bare essentials. No essences, serums or acid exfoliators, no jade rollers, micellar water or gold sheet masks, just cleanse and moisturise and you are good to go.

It’s the lazy girl’s guide to beauty and we are all for it.

Super lashes

You could probably thank the Kardashian’s for this one. Since the sisters shot to stardom big fake eyelashes (and a few other big fake things) have gone mainstream. And while those that look like two tarantulas hanging out on your eyelids look nothing short of ridiculous, a few precisely placed falsies can have a miraculous effect. Professional eyelash extensions last for weeks, enhance your eyes and you don’t need to wear mascara. Or eyeshadow, coloured or otherwise, for that matter. •

islandliving | 51 pacific

Tiny.

Tiny. Until Until you you turn turn it it on. on.

SoundLink Micro SoundLink Micro BluetoothÂŽ speaker BluetoothÂŽ speaker

Waterproof & meets IPX7 rating; Waterproof & meets IPX7and rating; so if it falls in the water just pull it out keep on playing. so if it falls in the water just pull it out and keep on playing.

Buy 1 at $149AUD or buy 2 at $268AUD* Buy 1Offer at $149AUD or buy 2 at $268AUD* from 1/03/19 - Ends 31/05/19 Offer from 1/03/19 - Ends 31/05/19

*Conditions apply *Conditions apply

Bose Authorised Retailer Sound Centre Duty Free, Lini Highway, Port Vila, Vanuatu Bose Authorised Retailer +678 Duty 22035Free, . soundcentre@pacificretailing.com Sound Centre Lini Highway, Port Vila, Vanuatu +678 22035 . soundcentre@pacificretailing.com

D E S T IN ATION G UIDE

Your

Portal to the Pacific From the Marshalls to the Mamanucas, to Santo sunsets, all the stuff you need to know across the region.

islandliving | 53 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U

c i g a m d n a e r u t l u c , m o t Put cus

On your bucket list

We’re getting our minds blown over here. Seems that there’s more adventure to be had in Vanuatu than trying out a dicey daiquiri at the resort. Adventuring in paradise actually can be the volcano-summiting, blue-hole-diving, palm-tree-chillin’ cliché you’ve been yearning for. Santo, Tanna and Efate are three of the best adventure islands in Vanuatu – get ready – Joel Johnsson is about to re-write your bucket list.

W

hat’s on your bucket list? We’ve all got one, whether written down or loosely formed in your head, constantly changing as we hear about new experiences. But how often do you really get to do that? How often in a year do you get to have ‘the experience of a lifetime’?

What if I told you that there is a place where you can stare into the crater of an active volcano and climb a banyan tree the size of a soccer field – in the same day. Where culture, custom and magic are still a part of daily life and people speak over 100 languages, the highest linguistic density on the planet. Where, in addition to some of the best beaches in the Pacific, you also have a wild inland wilderness to explore, with caves, canyons and sparkling blue holes in the jungle. Where it’s 23-28 degrees – year round. Which has been voted the happiest place on earth – twice.

You’ve probably heard of it before – but you’ve never heard

54 | Islandliving pacific

about the adventure potential of Vanuatu. And with 83 islands to explore, all with very different characters and environments, you could come back every winter of your life and still not see it all. Here’s a quick guide to just three of Vanuatu’s islands.

Santo Santo is the largest of the 83 islands of Vanuatu, and while the main city of Luganville has modern supermarkets and restaurants, the entire centre and west coast of the island is virtually inaccessible with villages that hardly ever see white people and still retain a vibrant culture steeped in tradition and magic.

Santo also has Vanuatu’s highest mountain, Mount Tabwemasana, a three-day ascent on rough-cut jungle tracks with local guides, and longest river, the Jordan River which

Blue Caves, Tanna Island Blue Caves, Tanna Island

Your Vanuatu Bucket List for 2019

1.

1.

2.

2.

3.

3.

4.

4.

COME DANCE TO A DIFFERENT BEAT

Your Vanuatu Bucket List for 2019

A timeless Archipelago, the Ni-Vanuatu people have remained deeply attached to their culture.

With 83 Islands the rhythm of centuries-old rites, and celebrations the ancient culture is still very much alive.

COME DANCE AinDIFFERENT BEAT Ni-Vanuatu have TO lived these islands for centuries more thanthe 110Ni-Vanuatu distinctly different A timelessand Archipelago, people cultures have and languagesdeeply still thrive here. A to visit to Vanuatu remained attached their culture. will immerse you in custom and culture fromofthe moment you arrive.

With 83 Islands the rhythm centuries-old rites, and celebrations the ancient culture is still very much alive.

Ni-Vanuatu have lived in these islands for LEARNING LET than GO 110 distinctly different cultures and centuries andTO more languages still thrive A visit to Vanuatu will immerse you Pentecost Island has here. become famous throughout the world in custom and culture from the moment you arrive. for the land diving ritual (Nagol or N’gol) which occurs every Saturday between April and June. The ritual sees local men and boys as young as seven jump from a 20 -30-metre high LEARNING TO LET manmade tower withGO only a vine attached to their legs. The jump is a celebration of the yam harvest.

Pentecost Island has become famous throughout the world for the land diving ritual (Nagol or N’gol) which occurs every Saturday between April and June. The ritual sees local men and boys as young as seven jump from a 20 -30-metre high manmade towerCRUISE with only a vine attached to LEVEL their legs. The PREFER YOUR SHIPS BELOW SEA jump is a celebration of the yam harvest.

For those who are keen wreck dive the SS President Coolidge.

Once a luxury liner, converted to a troop carrier for the war effort by the Americans Forces sank when it hit two of their own mines on the 26th of October 1942. At the time of the PREFER CRUISE SHIPS SEA LEVEL drama, itYOUR was carrying 5000 menBELOW on board.

This massive 200 meter long vessel at between 20President and 70 meters’ For those who are now keenrests wreck dive the SS Coolidge. depth.a luxury liner, converted to a troop carrier for the war Once effort by the Americans Forces sank when it hit two of their own mines on the 26th of October 1942. At the time of the drama, it was carrying 5000 men on board. This massive 200 WATCH THE WORLD’S MOST SPECTACULAR meter long vessel now rests at between 20 and 70 FIREWORKS meters’ depth.

Mount Yasur, Tanna Islands most famous attraction is

regarded as the world’s most accessible active volcano. Drive across black sand dunes, creating a stark moonscape. Visitors can climb up to the crater rim, where they are treated to a WATCH THEfireworks WORLD’S MOST SPECTACULAR FIREWORKS magnificient display.

While standing on the edge of the crater.

Mount Yasur, Tanna Islands most famous attraction is regarded as the world’s most accessible active volcano. Drive across black sand dunes, creating a stark moonscape. Visitors can climb up to the crater rim, where they are treated to a www.vanuatu.travel | #DiscoverVanuatu

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U winds its way over 50 kilometres from the highlands to the volcanic black sand beaches at Matanta. Understandably then, the potential for Type 2 adventure on Santo is pretty high.

But Santo’s incredible natural beauty is also accessible to everyone, regardless of whether you have two days or two weeks. The East Coast Road runs past the islands’ unique Blue Holes, deep pools of springwater that sparkle a rich aquamarine and azure against the lush greens of the jungle.

It’s also the road to some of the best beaches in the South Pacific – Champagne Beach, where you can walk along the huge tree branches, all carpeted in ferns and vines, that stretch out over the white sand, and Port Olry, with its local beach shacks which look over the tropical waters to the small offshore islands that surround the wide bay, selling lobster and coconut crabs when in season.

For those looking for something a bit more adventurous, Millennium Cave is a full day excursion of hiking, caving and canyoning in some of the most beautiful jungle that you’ll ever see. And Santo also has some of the best wreck diving in the world, with the 200m luxury cruise liner SS Coolidge only a 15-minute drive from Luganville, as well as Million Dollar Point, where you can dive or snorkel amongst tanks, bulldozers, jeeps, and trucks dumped by the Americans after the Second World War. Santo is easy to get to, with direct flights from Brisbane with Air Vanuatu, and has a wide range of accommodation options for travellers. If you plan to do some of the many diving, horse-riding, kayaking, snorkelling, canyoning or river-floating tours, it’s best to spend a couple of days based in or close to the main town of Luganville at the south-eastern corner of the island such as The Beachfront Resort. Most tours will include a transfer from any of the main hotels or resorts in Luganville.

After that, get out of town and base yourself closer to the Blue Holes and beaches on the quieter eastern side of the island for a few nights. There are plenty of modern accommodation options on the East Coast Road around or, if you’re happy with a basic island bungalow (cold showers and solar lighting only), you could be waking up in a treehouse, right on the sand at Port Olry. You can find out about these and many other options through the fantastic Santo Travel website.

Tanna If Santo is a water paradise, Tanna is the island of fire.

Dominated by Mount Yasur, the most accessible active volcano in the world, Tanna holds a wealth of other treasures for people willing to extend their stay – black sand beaches, hidden waterfalls and steaming hot springs.

In the hinterland, there are a number of traditional ‘kastom’ villages, like Ikunala, Yakel or Imaio, which welcome visitors

56 | Islandliving pacific

“And perhaps the overlooked jewel in Tanna’s crown is the Blue Cave, a subterranean cavern which you access by diving into an underwater tunnel from the ocean, where the water glows iridescent blue all around you from the perfect shaft of sunlight flooding in from the hole at the top of the cave.”

MORE FLIGHTS, MORE OFTEN. PAPUA NEW GUINEA Torres

Port Moresby Honiara Santo

Gaua

VANUATU Port Vila

FIJI

Ambae

Nadi

Tanna

AUSTRALIA Brisbane

Motolava Sola

Banks

NEW CALEDONIA

Suva

Santo

VANUATU Maewo

Pentecost

Noumea Malekula

Sydney

Efate

Ambrym Paama Epi Tongoa Emae

Port Vila

Melbourne Erromango

Auckland

NEW ZEALAND

Aniwa Futuna

Tanna Aneityum

Visit www.airvanuatu.com to book your flight, car or accommodation, insurance or for more information.

DRINKS

MEALS

Vanuatu – Port Vila Air Vanuatu House, Rue de Paris PO Box 148, Port Vila Tel: +678 20200 Fax: +678 23250 Email: reservation@airvanuatu.vu

QFF POINTS

ENTERTAINMENT

New Zealand – Auckland Tel: +64 9 373 3435 Email: airvanuatu@airvanuatu.co.nz New Caledonia – Noumea Tel: +687 28 66 77 Email: axxesstravel@lagoon.nc

Australia Toll Free: 1300 780 737 Email: sales@airvanuatu.com.au In other parts of the world Qantas are the general sales agents to Air Vanuatu.

30 KG

DUTY FREE

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U and provide insight into the local way of life. Or release your inner child and climb into the towering limbs or crawl through the tunnels of exposed roots of the largest Banyan tree in Vanuatu, the size of a football field, which is still taking over the trees and surrounding forest. And perhaps the overlooked jewel in Tanna’s crown is the Blue Cave, a subterranean cavern which you access by swimming into an underwater tunnel from the ocean, where the water glows iridescent blue all around you from the perfect shaft of sunlight flooding in from the hole at the top of the cave.

Most of the amenities, including the main town of Lenakel, are on the western side of Tanna, which is also where the tours to many of the waterfalls, the Blue Cave and Giant Banyan Tree start from. It’s also the location of the airport, so staying on this side either at island bungalows or the westernstyle resorts like Whitegrass, Evergreen or Rocky Ridge which is convenient for early or late flights.

Tanna’s main attraction however, Mount Yasur volcano, is on the eastern side of the island, linked by a rough unsealed road which takes around two hours to travel and is sometimes cut during heavy rain – not ideal if you want to be there for sunrise or sunset, when the crater is at its most spectacular!

Thankfully, at the base of the volcano, there are a number of island bungalows and treehouses which are front-andcentre to the action – from here you can look out through your

Ramada Resort Port Vila

80 Rooms / Appartements Fully furnished / Entièrement équipés

Akiriki Restaurant

Breakfast, lunch & dinner Petit-déjeuner, déjeuner & diner

Sports Bar

Snack menu all day, major sports events broadcasted live Carte snack, retransmission en direct d’évènements sportifs

Meeting rooms & Ballroom

Find all our news and events on Facebook @ramadaresortportvila Retrouvez toutes nos nouveautés et évènements sur Facebook @ramadaresortportvila

Flexible & fully equipped for meetings & weddings Modulables et équipées pour les réunions et les mariages

enjoy your stay, leave the rest to us

TM

PO Box 6335 Erakor Lagoon, Paray, PORT VILA, Vanuatu Phone +678 28000 / Fax +678 28002 www.ramadaresort.com.vu

This facility is independently owned and operated under a franchise/licence agreement with Ramada Worldwide Inc.

58 | Islandliving pacific

bedroom window to the fiery glow of the volcano at night, and listen to the sounds of eruptions rippling across the evening sky. Ideally, stay at the local bungalows near the volcano for one or more nights to do a sunset or sunrise visit to the crater (or both!) then spend another couple of days on the western side of the island taking in the other sights (and washing the sulphur out of your hair with a hot shower!). There are not a lot of options for food in Lenakel, just the market and some basic convenience stores, so eating meals at your bungalow or resort is common practice.

EfatĂŠ EfatĂŠ is the bustling hub of Vanuatu, the capital, and the landing point for most international travellers. But take the time to get out of the city of Port Vila and there are some amazing natural and cultural experiences accessible to all, whether you have an hour or a day.

In fact, you can skip the city altogether and drive (or hire a car or driver) to take you around to the northern side of the island, where you get a boat to take you over to Pele or Nguna islands which are populated entirely by ni-Vanuatu people (and the odd adventurous westerner).

Stay the night at one of the local bungalows, spend some time with the locals in the villages, hike up the extinct volcanic

islandliving | 59 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U cones and snorkel in the pristine marine reserves – all within a half-day from the nation’s capital. If that doesn’t give you your fill of island hopping, hire a kayak or charter a trip on local fishing boats. Close to Vila, you can cool off at the Mele Cascades or the blue lagoon, or jump on a mountain bike and cruise through the villages tucked away in the forests along the coasts and in the foothills. One of the best waterfalls on the island of Efaté is Lololima Falls, which can be booked though Vanuatu Ecotours and is a 45-minute drive out of Port Vila on rough tracks. The multi-tiered, cascading waterfall features a cave underneath the main falls and a short section of canyon to explore.

There are a multitude of hotels and resorts in the main town of Port Vila (or nearby) that provide a comfortable base for exploring the island as well as access to great restaurants.

Make the time to go to the new handicraft market on the waterfront, and the main produce market to see the tropical fruits, flowers and food and have a chat with the local “mama’s”.

While you can drive around the whole island in a few hours, making everything accessible within a day trip from the capital, you might also choose to stay at the quieter bungalows on the northern side of the island or on one of the smaller outer islands to really get amongst it. •

60 | Islandliving pacific

Getting to Vanuatu • Air Vanuatu operates from Sydney, Brisbane, Auckland, Noumea and Nadi to Port Vila. www.airvanuatu.com

Offering a stunning range of Vanuatu stamps and first day covers for collectors or as souvenirs available for purchase online

Featuring beautiful photographs and illustrations of Vanuatu

At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday!

www.vanuatupost.vu

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

Freestyle Fishing olomons Danielle Norton catches a banana boat and goes fishing with men who have a lifetime of practice and a deep understanding of the water, its intricacies and behaviour. Then comes up covered in sardine scales.

I

’m spending the day fishing with a tour guide and Julius Kera, owner of the Agnes Gateway Hotel and an elder of the Munda community. Floating peacefully on the brilliant blue, gin-clear ocean in a banana boat, we watch a frigatebird soaring through the air, chasing a seagull with a fish in its mouth. Our skipper, Silian, motors quietly towards it. There’s a school of fish there, the men surmise, interpreting nature’s signs. A lifetime of practice has given them an exceptional understanding of the water; its movements, intricacies, and behaviours.

We’re watching huge schools of trevally dart away from the sharks that have come close to the mangroves to hunt.

“They’re lazy sharks,” says Ellison, my guide.

“They can’t be bothered hunting out there.” He sweeps his arm to encompass the whole lagoon and the reef beyond.

I’ve never seen a shark so close to my boat before and I’m nervous but Ellison assures me that they are only dangerous

Above right: Julius who makes his own nets from nylon fishing line, empties a haul of sardines into an esky. Below Right: ‘Lazy sharks can’t be bothered hunting out there’ says my guide Ellison, they prefer the mangroves near the shore.

62 | Islandliving pacific

to the fish.

We paddle around the tip of Kundukundu Island to where schools of hundreds of the katukatu (sardines) are frolicking, causing the water to bubble like a spa bath. Julius advances slowly towards them with the stealth of a panther stalking its prey. Holding the white nylon net in his arms, he chooses the perfect moment, then casts the net wide, pulling the cord tight immediately to draw in hundreds of sardines.

Patience is a defining quality of the Solomons, things take time, and we chat about the different nets available for fishing as Julius spends 10 minutes untangling the fish from the net and dropping them into the esky one by one. Nylon nets make it easier to get fish out, he tells me, and cotton nets are used for big fish. Julius makes his own from nylon fishing line.

“It’s cheaper than buying them from the shops,” he laughs.

Indeed, why buy a net when you can make one?

Sardine scales speckle the boat and our arms, glowing like snowflakes on Julius’s dark skin. We have enough bait, he says, so we make our way to a sand bank near an ocean shelf. We leave everything in the boat and jump into the shallows, heading towards a trench with snorkels and masks.

The underwater world is clear and magical. Tiny, bright blue fish dart in and out of the coral and we catch sight of a number of clownfish darting around their anemones. Crabs, angel fish, stripy fish with tigers’ colours, and a blue starfish are going about their lives without fear of us. The experience of snorkelling fills me with wonder. Every time I do it I’m struck by the sheer enormity of the marine ecosystem that lies beneath the surface of the sea.

Floating dreamily, face down watching the ribbons of light cross-crossing in spiderwebs all around, I’ve never felt so peaceful. But moments later I regret losing my concentration.

The mesmerising lights have made me seasick. So ridiculous but definitely true. I remove my mask and try to settle myself

PICTURES: Danielle Norton and SIDE Dive Munda

In the S

islandliving | 63 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

Above and below: Hopei Island which is the perfect picnic destination.

by looking at the horizon, the islands, the boat, anything, but the damage is done and I have to return to the shallows and reboard the boat.

Luckily, it’s time for our picnic lunch and we paddle to nearby Hopei Island. Part of this island is owned by Julius, but it is almost void of man made structures. Save for one fale and one uninhabited house which is about to undergo renovation, the island is untouched. The inner forest is not thick but offers plenty of shade for the Roviana people who are welcome to visit for picnics.

While I’ve been swimming, Julius and Silian have caught four fish with our sardine bait. Staff from the Agnes Gateway Hotel have prepared a traditional stone fire and the coral is so hot it’s white. The red snapper and coral fish are laid across the stones and Daniel uses a pair of tongs fashioned from the hard stem of the the coconut leaf. It’s the embodiment of an ‘eco lunch’ experience.

The guide keeps reminding me that it’s a once in a lifetime opportunity, but for the people of the Solomons it is not. It’s how they do it. Kids learn as soon as they’re old enough to help how to build and stoke the fire, how to cut and cook the fish on the stones and how to weave a plate from coconut leaves.

64 | Islandliving pacific

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

Nothing like a coral fire barbecue of fresh sardines caught only moments before.

We squeeze a slice of lime over our snapper and eat the flesh of the fish with our fingers, straight off the bones, the smoky skin crisp and delicious, the inner meat cooked through and flaking perfectly. Using my hands to eat is a little confronting at first and I have to juggle my plate and drink a little but I get the hang of it and it’s almost natural to me by the end of the meal.

After lunch, which included salad vegetables and local fruits, we dispose of everything happy knowing that nothing will go to landfill here. The plate, the bones, the salad and fruit scraps will all return to an ecosystem which welcomes them and, in fact, absorbs them naturally.

After eating, I wander to the shore to wash my hands in seawater, grabbing handfuls of sand to scrub the grease off. A natural exfoliation, my hands feel smooth and soft afterwards.

The Solomons have shown me the world as it used to be; before we sold our food to each other in plastic bags, before disposable picnic plates, hand sanitiser and baby wipes, and I like it. The pristine beauty of the natural environment and the lack of pollution, both physical and emotional, speaks to me out here in the Western province.

For a truly authentic experience of island life, you can’t beat this. •

Experience magical Munda at Agnes Gateway Hotel. Award winning service and pristine diving. SSI instructor training centre.

WWII wrecks, caves and reefs – untouched and unspoilt.

DIVE THE UNEXPLORED www.divemunda.com

divemunda@dive-solomon.com Find us on Twitter, Facebook + Instagram

66 | Islandliving pacific

Direct weekly flights from Brisbaneto Munda starting with Solomon Airlines in mid 2018!

SICCI Tourism Business of the Year Winner 2017

Bridging the Pacific Qantas Codeshare Partner

PAPUA NEW GUINEA Port Moresby

SOLOMON ISLANDS Honiara VANUATU Port-Vila

AUSTRALIA

Brisbane

Nadi FIJI ISLES

Auckland

www.flysolomons.com

NEW ZEALAND Wellington

PHONE: Brisbane - 1300 894 311 Honiara - 177 from within the Solomon Islands or 20031 externally.

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

History and Heritage Danielle Norton checks into Honiara’s Heritage Park Hotel and is impressed.

THE HISTORY: In previous times, the Heritage Park Hotel was the site of the Governor’s residence and the grandeur befitting a person such as this still exists in its modern reincarnation.

This is a place for business travellers or those in transit or those interested in the history of the region. Guadalcanal was the site of many battles between the US and Japanese soldiers in WWII but the Heritage Hotel bears none of the scars.

The reception area of the hotel is a wide expanse of shining marble and staff are warm and hospitable. A welcome drink floats over to us on a tray and we sit in the high backed cane chairs in the reception area, sipping our drinks and noting the time on the array of world clocks on the adjacent wall.

The hotel is set on five acres of well maintained tropical gardens. Lawns are manicured and the resort’s pathways are lined with hibiscus and palm trees. From the swimming pool one can look out to sea, and observe boats on the water. With a decent collection of white lounge chairs, the poolside Splash Bar and Grill is the obvious place to enjoy a sundowner and

soak up the tropical vibe as evening descends and the cool ocean breeze flows in.

THE LOCATION: The hotel is central to Honiara and close to the National Museum and Mataniko Falls. Honiara Golf Club is a ten minute drive away and it’s only 15 minutes drive from the famous Kinugawa Maru dive site. The airport is 12 kms away.

THE ROOMS: The rooms are perfectly cooled when we arrive, and a lovely arrangement of pink frangipanis and a deep red tropical flower decorate the comfortable queen size bed. The room is spacious and clean, and equipped with a desk and an occasional chair. The balcony has simple chairs and a table and is an obvious place to prop oneself and take in the ocean view.

The bathroom is compact but elegant, housing a shower (no bath) and a toilet. The modern benchtops are decorated with a fresh bouquet of tropical flowers and Heritage Park branded hand wash, soaps and toiletries.

EXPLORE • DISCOVER • RELAX • TULAGI • SOLOMON ISLANDS

PHONE (677) 32070 or 7594185

EMAIL raidershotel@solomon.com.sb

WEB www.radiershotel.com

RAIDERS HOTEL & DIVE

REEF & WRECK DIVING • ACCOMMODATION • BAR & DINING • SNORKLING • HIKING & MORE LOCATED 1 HOUR FROM HONIARA, ON THE WATERFRONT OF THE HISTORIC TULAGI HARBOUR, SOLOMON ISLANDS

68 | Islandliving pacific

ENJOY A NIGHT OR 10 YEARS AT HONIARA’S FINEST

n

d

t r o h S or y a t S ng Lo y Sta

oms an

~ Wa t e r s t

nt Hote l Ro

f ro

ap a r t me

H

* Occupants of 511 have been resident for 9 years

O

N

I

A

R

A

• Luxurious waterfront rooms + suites • Serviced Apartments: Studios to 3 bedroom • Water’s edge • Business district • Conference facilities - 250 pax room + smaller • Club Bar • Resort pool • Restaurant, Coffee Shop, Waterside Bistro • Gymnasium • Reliable Wifi - 500MB a day Free • Excellent Security • Attentive Service WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO - Telephone: (677) 24007 Facsimilie: (677) 21001

P.O. Box 1598, Mendana Avenue, Honiara, Solomon Islands Email: info@heritageparkhotel.com.sb Website: www.heritageparkhotel.com.sb

ENQUIRE NOW

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS Two bedroom suites with connecting doors are also available.

THE FOOD: Drinking an ice cold Solbrew in the Terrace Restaurant of the Heritage Park Hotel is a true pleasure after a hot day in Honiara and ordering from the extensive menu is even better.

The open air restaurant is cooled by overhead fans which give a breeze and help to keep the evening mosquitos away.

The lime green cane chairs and tables add a fun, vibrant ambience but this is very much a business hotel. Despite a dedicated meeting room onsite, business people are gathered here with fresh bush lime juice or watermelon juice as the refreshments during the day but veer towards the beer, wine and cocktail menu in the evening.

For my first meal in the Solomons we decided to eat in the Terrace restaurant and I chose a spicy chicken soup entree and a main meal of duck and vegetable curry. Both were delicious but I did suffer meal envy when my companions ordered crustaceans and a pod of bright red lobster arrived at the table.

The more formal GGs Restaurant is indoors, airconditioned, and offers a la carte dining with European and international cuisine in a more formal environment.

The breakfast buffet is laid out in the Terrace Restaurant at 7am. It has a generous assortment of American style menu items and there is also a coffee machine that can create a

Heritage Park Hotel’s elegant reception area.

decent flat white if you’re a coffee connoisseur. A large flat screen TV hangs on the wall behind, for the international news addicts.

THE VERDICT: If you are in town on business or in transit to one of the Solomons’ 900 other islands, the Heritage Park Hotel is a good choice. It’s central, clean, modern and has free wifi.

HOW TO GET THERE: Airport transfers can be arranged.

HOW TO BOOK: Online http://www.heritageparkhotel.com.sb or call +67724007 THE PRICE: Ocean view rooms from around $300 •

Your logistic solutions provider in Solomon Islands BJS Logistics Solutions International Freight Forwarders Global Service Import Air Freight - Worldwide Import Sea Freight - Worldwide Customs Clearance Service Export Air Freight - Worldwide Export Sea Freight - Worldwide Project Management Bonded Customs Warehouse Customs Clearance

We have all your logistics solutions covered.

International global freight forwarding by air, sea and road. Warehousing solutions from packaging, to repairs, to storage; mail deliveries worldwide; and other customized logistic services - with everything DHL does, we help connect people and improve their lives.

bjs agencies ltd PO Box 439/Commonwealth St •Point Cruz Honiara • Solomon Islands Phone +677 22393 Email bjs@bjs.com.sb Facebook www.facebook.com/ bjsagencieslimited Web www.bjs.com.sb

70 | Islandliving pacific

DHL Express & DHL Global Forwarding

BJS Recycling Specialists BJS Recycling are Solomon Islands leading scrap metal buyers.

We buy all non-ferrous and some ferrous metals.

Our buying prices are very competitive and our staff are experienced and passionate recyclers.

D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

Chiefly service Taumeasina Island Resort’s general manager Nathan Bucknall, was recently given a high chiefly title from the local village in Samoa, his new name is Tuiataga.

“This was a huge honour, and very humbling” says Tuiataga, very proud of this bestowal of title, a privilege usually reserved for people of Samoan heritage only.”

But Nathan says it is a title he shares with all his staff for their dedication to ensuring each guest has a memorable holiday in Samoa.

“Taumeasina Island Resort has so much to offer. The resort is equipped with catamarans, snorkeling equipment, kayaks, tennis courts, beautiful swimming pools, a spa, gymnasium, sauna and two restaurants, two bars all set in a ideal location just outside of town,” he said.

“Taumeasina’s unique selling point is that you are on an island, connected by a causeway, just five minutes from the capital city; yet everywhere you turn, you would not know you were so close to town.”

The weekly entertainment at Taumeasina is unmatched in Samoa. It starts with happy hour every night of the week, between 5pm and 8pm; Wednesday night the staff put together an amazing show – Ladies’ Night – an electric and energetic all-male review, with an island kick to it. All the boys practice in their own time and dance each week from 8pm.

72 | Islandliving pacific

Thursday night in the Manu bar is Fa’afafine night. This is the only show of its kind in Samoa at the moment and is without a doubt the most popular show in the country.

The term Fa’afafine refers to (in Samoa) a person whose birth sex is male but who is raised as a woman, and identifies with neither, both, or a combination of male and female genders. These ‘ladies’ who are also employees at Taumeasina perform every Thursday, a number of dazzling, and glittery acts that will be sure to keep your mouth open for their entire performance.

Friday night at Taumeasina be entertained by a wonderful two-piece band during happy hour, followed by the ‘Fruit Salad Show’ which is a mix of Wednesday and Thursday night performances with some extra bits thrown in for fun.

“Saturday night is the finale of all of the weekly entertainment, where once again the staff get together to entertain and amaze, this time at the weekly Fia Fia evening. Not only can try an array of local cuisine, but you can also experience traditional Samoan dancing, and of course the famous Samaon Siva Afi or (fire dancing).”

So if you are looking for a holiday, on a tropical island, on a tropical island where you can be wined, dined and continually entertained, Taumeasina Island Resort, Samoa is the easy choice. For more information you can visit www.taumeaisnaislandresortsamoa.com.•

Pacific

Come visit us at one of our two locations; Levili gift shop & garden café Apia Park back road ph: +685 32888

Gift Shop & Garden Café

Apia gift shop SNPF Plaza ph: +685 32887

Samoa

Jewell

www.pacificjewellsamoa.com | pacificjewell@gmail.com pacificjewell

Exceptional Hospitality | An Oasis of Tranquillity | Exclusively for Adults

seabreezesamoa.com | t 7770014

74 | Islandliving pacific

There's nothing like it!

D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

t a e g n a h c Sea

Seabreeze

From their first visit to Samoa, Chris and Wendy Booth knew they had found paradise.

Now they share it with others at Seabreeze Resort.

Each of the Seabreeze’s 12 villas have access to the water, with the honeymoon suite offering the best views.

76 | Islandliving pacific

There are several dining options and a private white sand beach and gorgeous lagoon style pool.

W

endy and Chris Booth are clearly a couple who know what they want. They are, from first meeting, proud, passionate, hard working and completely dedicated to Samoa.

They first visited the island nation in 1996 and were drawn back several times before finally deciding to call it home. It’s been a labour of love they both admit, but one which has netted award after accolade and many repeat guests they now call friends.

“As a child growing up in the North of England I dreamt of living on a tropical Island. Chris, a lifelong surfer also loved the islands and together we dreamed of creating an island paradise,” Wendy says.

The avid travelers set the bar very high, having stayed at some of the best hotels in the world.

“There are beautiful beaches everywhere in Samoa, however we remembered a cute bay where a local taxi driver,

Tau, took us swimming. On the most perfect day, we drove down into the bay, the sun was glistening on the lagoon, the view was mesmerizing and we knew instantly that this was our piece of paradise, aptly named Paradise Cove.”

Chris, an Australian Master Builder of 40 years turned bush carpenters into skilled tradesmen as together they built was is now Seabreeze Resort Samoa.

Chris and Wendy have learnt valuable lessons along the way but have always believed in upskilling local talent at all times. Waiters become chefs, cleaners become entertainers, drivers work towards management. Walking around the beauitful resort Chris jokes with the staff and you get the sense they are a real family at Seabreeze.

Seabreeze is Samoa’s ultimate resort for boutique luxury.

With the focus clearly on outdoor living, all villas have ocean, lagoon and reef views. A total refurbishment took place in 2010/11 with each room carefully structured with the tropics

islandliving | 77 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

in mind to encourage cross flow ventilation from natural sea breezes.

All the usual ammenities are in place, from minibars to airconditioning, indoor and outdoor showers and beautiful linen, but it’s the extra touches that really make Seabreeze something special.

At check-in there is what seems to be a mountain of paperwork to fill in and at first I thought it was all a bit of a bore.

But the paperwork is so the staff get to know you, what you like to eat and drink and what activities you have in mind so they can take care of everything for you.

Of course this can be done from the comfort of your room and before you know it, the paperwork is done and your every beck and call is being attended to.

Each afternoon guests are offered complimentary canapes and alcoholic drinks (Seabreeze is an adults-only resort),

PICTURES: Seabreeze Resort.

With stunning views and amazing food, the waterfront restaurant at Seabreeze has won several awards.

Arrive Refreshed, with Samoa’s Own Airline!

Find your happy place in Beautiful Samoa.

Image Courtesy of Auckland International Airport

Let us indulge you with our warm Samoan welcome, while you travel in style with hot meals and a generous 23kg baggage allowance.

Flying with Samoa Airways makes the traveling part easy, so you’ll be refreshed for the holiday part!

SAMOA Faleolo Interna onal Airport

Apia Fagali’i Airport

Pago Pago AMERICAN SAMOA

AUSTRALIA Brisbane

South Pacific Ocean

Sydney Auckland

NEW ZEALAND

www.samoaairways.com • APIA • FAGALII • AUCKLAND • BRISBANE • SYDNEY • PAGO PAGO •

Being adults only, the resort is favoured by honeymooners and for intimate weddings.

delivered to your room. And the turndown service after dinner is really quite lovely.

Wendy has spent hours with the housekeeping staff watching YouTube videos of how to make quirky and cute ‘towel art’ and I’m greeted with an elephant and a packet of locally made Samoan taro chips on my return. It’s cute and you can see the staff has gone to a lot of effort.

The 12 luxury villas at Seabreeze are complemented by a stunning waterfront restaurant, pizzeria and poolside bar. The menus all focus on fresh local produce and seafood and fine New Zeland and Australian wines.

In-room spa services are available along with glass-bottom kayaks, snorkelling and many cultural activities. Seabreeze is a place to relax, unwind and enjoy. • Samoa Airways flies from Australia and New Zealand to Apia. Fiji Airways flies from Nadi to Apia.

80 | Islandliving pacific

Weddings at Seabreeze Say “I Do” as the sun sets over the lagoon or barefoot on the beach to the sounds of lapping waves. Your wedding can be the simplest to the most elaborate of occasions. Whatever your needs Seabreeze will tailor a ceremony and reception that surpasses your expectations.

Inclusions: Wedding set up; warriors; flowers; local band; all minister fees; room upgrade; champagne breakfast and a personal weddings co-ordinator.

Packages from $NZD2350.

Come for the day ...or stay a few nights

VISIT US Located just 20 minutes from the international airport on its own private beach facing stunning sunsets.

ENQUIRE NOW Featuring SPAradise day spa, Paradise Kitchen Restaurant, Poolside Cabana cafe, Rock pool Bar and 4 swimming pools

T (00) 685 35055 E info@returntoparadiseresort.com W returntoparadiseresort.com

N O R F OLK IS LAN D

An island paradise Captain James Cook was the first to officially discover Norfolk Island, describing it as ‘paradise’ – a term he did not use liberally in his journals. From 1788 to 1854, this paradise became a harsh penal colony and home to hapless convicts. Today, it is home to the descendants of the Bounty Mutineers whose barefoot manners, warmth and hospitality have been woven into the island’s unique and timeless rhythm – a special charm that draws visitors back time and time again.

Norfolk Island offers excitement, fun, relaxation, adventure, indulgence, culture, history and surprise for

everyone to experience and enjoy stunning scenery, unmatched convict and colonial history, fabulous local restaurants and a pristine environment. I kept running in to the same people and began to understand why so many older Australians come to visit this beautiful island.

Driving around Norfolk, everyone waves to you. It’s called the Norfolk Wave and whilst they don’t seem to mind if you don’t wave back at first, after passing the same cars time and again, you end up joining in and waving at everyone like they’re your long lost mates.

It’s Australia but 40 years ago. – TC

Food fabulous food In more recent times, Norfolk Island is becoming a food-lover’s destination: think fresh fish, succulent beef and pork and add in boutique products including coffee, honey and local cheese then think of Norfolk Island where you can enjoy the real paddock-to-plate experience.

When it comes to culinary matters, Norfolk Islanders bring forth generations of passion and resourcefulness and their food reflects an eclectic blend of cultures and a love of sharing nature’s bounty.

Produce is grown organically in season (only garlic, onion, potatoes and ginger are imported) picked and delivered to restaurants and cafes on the same day.

There are about 25 eateries (restaurants, cafes, clubs and take-away outlets) where chefs create dishes bursting with flavour and taste how food should taste.

Visitors can experience Progressive Dinners to local’s homes and sunset island fish fries where you will enjoy fresh fish, served with island traditional salads and sweet dessert pies.

A mix of tasty food and stunning locations are served up at the annual Taste Norfolk Island food festival, held every November to include Thanksgiving Day celebrations.

82 | Islandliving pacific

Beaches and bushwalks Anson Bay is one of Norfolk’s most spectacular secluded beaches.

Nestled in to the bottom of one the many steep cliffs just off Anson Bay road. The Bay is less accessible than other beaches on the Island. There is a walking track that winds down to the beach but it is not recommended for swimming.

There are BBQ facilities on the cliff top and is a perfect location to experience a beautiful sunset.

Norfolk Island National Park welcomes visitors to explore its stunning scenery and rich diversity of bird life. From bushwalks to barbecues, there is something for everyone. Experience natural Norfolk Island on the walking tracks in the national park. Tracks wind through lush palm forests, stands of Norfolk Island pine and along the coastal fringe. You can even walk beneath the tallest tree ferns on earth Take in the incredible island views from Mt Pitt and Mt Bates, the two highest points on the island. Visit the Captain Cook monument and lookout platform for spectacular coastline views and make use of the picnic facilities and barbecues provided.

You can purchase the 4 National Park pack for $5 from the Visitor Information Centre.

Getting there and where to stay Air New Zealand operates flights from Brisbane every Saturday and Tuesday and from Sydney every Monday and Friday. There are many hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs, lodges and apartments available to stay on Norfolk Island.

We stayed at Auwas Island Holiday Home, a fully self-contained home that provides all the modern amenities you could possibly want for your Norfolk Island getaway. It has an open plan kitchen/dining area with floor to ceiling widows framing peaceful valley views to distant Philip Island. The spacious undercover entertainment deck is perfect for barbequeing with friends, breakfast alfresco style, or simply sitting back and enjoying a relaxing glass of wine during one of Norfolk s tranquil evenings.

The home has three bedrooms, which consist of two queen beds and two single (trundle) beds. Cots, high chairs and car seats can all be provided free of charge.

Hire cars are supplied for an additional discounted cost of $40.00 per day, which includes a personal meet and greet at the airport. Guests are met at the airport and transferred to the property.

islandliving | 83 pacific

DE S T INAT ION K IRIBAT I

From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning.

On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you.

T

he island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls straddles the equator stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear.

South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together.

Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails.

Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides.

Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side.

During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust.

Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, the lagoon breeze provides natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much nonexistent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm.

It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes

84 | Islandliving pacific

staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built-in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet.

Meals are local food: pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup, fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple.

Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe to catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon.

Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, a church and a small shop, little else.

Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away.

Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest.

Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy (coconut sap); women sit weaving mats; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them.

There is no need here for TV or fancy toys – the children seem content with what their imagination and natural environment provide. Calm and tranquillity reign. •

by Vanessa Nuttall

MARSHALL ISLANDS discover the undiscovered...

A nationwide campaign to promote Marshallese products and services Marshall Islands Ministry of Resources & Development, Division of Trade & Investment Phone (692)625-3206/4020 | Fax (692) 625-7471 | Web www.rmimrd.com | Facebook Be Marshallese, Buy Marshallese

The

Marshall Islands The major international airport is located on Majuro where modern accommodation facilities are also to be found.

Hotel Robert Reimers Operated by one of the pioneering Marshallese families, this property offers both standard hotel suites as well as secluded waterfront bungalows. There is a quality restaurant and bar located on-site and is well located, close to shopping and facilities. www.hotelrobertreimers.com Airport Hotel and Lokjar Apartments As the name suggests, located close to the airport and offering superior modern accommodation suitable for families or longer stay guests. Large and self-contained with reliable WiFi, these apartments are a popular choice.

Marshall Islands Resort Located mid-island at Delop, this larger contemporary resort hotel offers guests familiar accommodation options found in many major islands with swimming pool, tennis courts and conference facilities. The full service restaurant and beachside BBQ are local attractions. www.marshallislandsresort.com Apart from these centrally located resorts and hotels, there are a great many basic beach ‘getaways’ to be found on the outer islands to suit backpackers and those seeking a more traditional island experience.

Eat and Drink

Majuro is quite the melting pot of international cuisine where visitors can find anything from Chinese, Filipino, Indian, French,

86 | Islandliving pacific

Japanese and local Marshallese along the winding road from the airport to the Rita district at the island’s northernmost tip.

Enra Located in the Marshall Islands Resort, the restaurant regularly offers themed cuisine in the large capacity restaurant and outdoor BBQ area.

Tide Table Located in the Hotel Robert Reimers complex offering a wide range of Western and Asian themed dishes with a well stocked bar. Popular with travelling business people.

Things to do

Scuba Diving The RMI is fast gaining a reputation as a world-leading destination for adventurous scuba diving. With more than 1,000 species of fish, 250 species of hard and soft corals as well as some of the most famous WWII shipwrecks (like the world’s only diveable aircraft carrier) it is truly for the most intrepid divers while still holding appeal for novices and snorkellers.

Deep Sea and Lagoon Fishing There is fishing for everyone in the RMI. Whether you are a deep sea fisher looking for the trophy pelagic bill fish or just some more leisurely lagoon species, fishing is an exciting activity the whole family can enjoy.

For the serious anglers, as many as ten tournaments are held every year. Day charters and excursions can be booked on a wide variety of vessels. Best time for fishing is May to October.

PICTURE: Damea Dorsey

Where to stay - Majuro

beran island resort

marshall islands

beranisland.com

LO N G D I S TANCE LOV E AF FAIR

e c i v d A Expert

The Best of Japan Our experts give you their highlights and tips on how to explore some of this amazing destination.

By John Borthwick, Kris Madden, Ian Talbot, Roderick Eime.

HOKKAIDO: CHEERS TO SAPPORO The Sapporo Beer Museum on the northern island of Hokkaido pays homage to the Japanese art of brewing. Brought to Japan

by Seibei Nakagawa in 1876, the young and energetic lad who took off to Europe on his own when such expeditions were forbidden was, instead of being arrested on his return, installed as head brewmaster at the new Sapporo Beer Factory. Today the three-floors of the 125-year-old red brick Sapporo Beer Museum occupies the original brewery and contain historical machinery, artefacts and marketing of Japan’s oldest beer brand, now sold worldwide and brewed in locations as far away as USA and Canada. – RE Sapporo Beer Museum: www.sapporobeer.jp/brewery/s_museum/ TAKAYAMA: CITY OF FESTIVALS Tucked away in the mountainous Hida region of Japan’s Gifu Prefecture, Takayama retains a traditional charm, unlike few other Japanese cities. Surrounded by mountains in every direction, and nicknamed ‘Little Kyoto’, it makes an ideal side trip between Tokyo and Kyoto. The biannual Takayama Matsuri, held in spring (April 14 and 15) and autumn (October 9 and 10), is regarded as among Japan’s most beautiful festivals, attracting large crowds. If you cannot be there for the festival, at other times of the year the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan

88 | Islandliving pacific

or Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall displays four of the eleven spectacularly ornate floats, which demonstrate Takayama’s legendary craftsmanship. – KM akayama website: http://www.hida.jp/english/ TOKYO: WORLD’S GASTRONOMIC CAPITAL With more Michelin-starred restaurants than Paris, Tokyo is the undisputed gastronomic capital of the world. Tokyo is deservedly revelling in its number one ranking for the most three-star awarded Michelin restaurants for the past 10 years, the entire time the Michelin Guide Tokyo has been published. In fact, the 2019 guide lists 230 restaurants with the prestigious stars, compared to the likes of Paris. While 10 three-star restaurants are located in the French capital, Tokyo has 13.

Paris has 16 and 92 two- and one-star restaurants, respectively, to Tokyo’s 52 and 165. Even for humble ‘street food’, Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku in Taito Ward, has a focus on rice balls. – KM Michelin Guide Tokyo 2019: https://guide.michelin.co.jp/ NAGASAKI: RISEN FROM THE ASHES The historic port city of Nagasaki, in the far western Kyushu region, was all but obliterated in a few fiery seconds on August 9th 1945, but this city is fascinating for many reasons besides its tragic history. In the 16th Century, Portuguese traders arrived in Japan turning the once tiny fishing village into a bustling international trade centre. Dutch, English and Russians traders arrived later, creating a ‘special economic zone’ where Christianity was tolerated. Many European arts, crafts and influences entered Japan through Dejima Island, now a historic living museum, including photography, the piano, paint, coffee, chocolate and beer. –RE Travel guide: www.japan.travel > Nagasaki Opposite page top right: Daimon-zaka cobblestone staircase on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. Below right: The 133m Nachi-no-Otaki – Japan’s highest waterfall – seen from Nachi Taisha grand shrine.

PICTURES:Rod Eime

NAGANO: MONKEY SPA, MONKEY DO Amid a snow-clad pine forest near Shiga-Kogen in northern Nagano Prefecture there’s a fuming hot spot called Jigokudani.

The name means Hell’s Valley because of the numerous hot springs that seethe, Hades-like beneath the pines. This, however, is monkey heaven. In the Jigokudani Monkey Park a troop of some 30 Japanese macaques revel in what can only be called a monkey spa. The forest floor, not to mention the air, might be thick with snow but the red-faced macaques have their own natural hot tub here. – JB Jigokudani Monkey Park: http://en.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp

1. Nagano: Monkey Spa, Monkey Do

2

2. Hokkaido: Cheers to Sapporo 3. Takayama: City Of Festivals 4. Tokyo: World’s Gastronomic Capital 5. Nagasaki: Risen from the Ashes 6. Toba City: Pearls of Wisdom 7. Myoko: Powderhound delight 8. Osaka: and a Cherry Blossom on Top

6

9. Nagano: Monkey Spa, Monkey Do 10

10. Kumano: 5 In High Spirits

9

7 1

8 5

10

3

4 6

islandliving | 89 pacific

OBA CITY: PEARLS OF WISDOM A shrine to this most desirous jewel can be found on a tiny island just off Japan’s port city of Toba in the Ise-Shima region of Mie Prefecture. The museum on Mikimoto Pearl Island is at the centre of the pearl universe. Visitors will see vast exhibits including culturing demonstrations and displays of mouthwatering pearl jewellery; crowns, watches, necklaces and even a 12,760 pearl-encrusted, five storey pagoda. There’s also a re-enactment of the centuries-old traditional pearl harvest once performed by hundreds of skilled women who would dive to the sea floor on a single breath and collect the pearl-bearing oysters.–RE Mikimoto Pearl Island: www.mikimoto-pearl-museum.co.jp MYOKO: POWDERHOUND DELIGHT On the northern outskirts of the Myoko ski area and just two hours from Tokyo, this resort re-opened in December 2017. Thanks in part to an extension of the main train route from Tokyo via Nagano, it’s a bonus for Australian skiers and snowboarders seeking an alternative to the popular, sometimes crowded snow resorts on the main island of Honshu. The Joetsu-Myoko Station is about a 15-minute (free) shuttle to the Lotto Arai Resort which averages a massive 15m of snow each season and offers a variety of terrain over a 951m vertical descent full of Japan’s famous untracked powder. –IT Resort details: www.skijapan.com/resorts/arai/ OSAKA: AND A CHERRY BLOSSOM ON TOP When the arrival of spring melts the last snows of winter, it’s the

90 | Islandliving pacific

time of year eagerly awaited by the Japanese. The much-loved ‘sakura’ (cherry blossoms) are in full bloom from the Ryukyu (Nansei) Islands in the far south in February, erupting north across the country to distant Hokkaido by May. Only a stone’s throw from Osaka where some 4000 cherry trees are planted on the grounds of the famous castle, you’ll find the town of Yoshino, at the foothills of the Kii Mountains. Enveloped by more than 30,000 cherry trees, Yoshino has enjoyed fame as Japan’s best sakura viewing spot for hundreds of years. – KM Travel guide: www.japan.travel > Sakura Trail KUMANO: IN HIGH SPIRITS igh in the Kii Mountains of Hongucho, the pristine Kumano River twists and turns past little villages, under bridges and past bands of enthusiastic fishermen up to their waists in the chilly water. This holy river forms part of the Kumano Kodo, or network of ancient pilgrimage routes, that tie together a web of lesser shrines of the Kumano deity as well as the ‘big three’ of Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, known collectively as the Kumano Sanzan.

In 2004, the whole region was inscribed into the UNESCO World Heritage register as site 1142: Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. –RE UNESCO site: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1142/ • Fiji Airways launched direct flights from Nadi to Tokyo (Narita airport) in July 2017. With three flights a week and connections from Australia, New Zealand and all other Pacific ports Fiji Airways flies to, the flights offer terrific Fijian service and value for money.

Above: Women wearing Tsubo-shozoku, a style of Kimono for noblewomen. Above: Spa-ing snow monkeys. Below: Spectacular cherry blossoms frame Mount Fuji.

Opposite page: Kokonoe ‘Yume’ Grand Suspension Bridge, the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge (390m).

islandliving | 91 pacific

R E S OR T R E POR T

Tokoriki Island Resort IN VILLA INDULGENCE – Relax with a couples’ massage poolside at your Bure or Villa followed by a three-course dining experience including a bottle of Moet & Chandon at sunset. You’ll enjoy personal butler service and a special serenade at your table by the talented Tokoriki musicians.

ISLAND BEACH PICNIC – Enjoy four hours of romance on nearby Monu island approximately 15 minutes by boat. Once there, relax and unwind in a stunning setting. Beachcomb along a beautiful sandy beach, enjoy great snorkelling on Monu’s fringing reef and feast on a sumptuous picnic lunch with a bottle of Moet & Chandon.

ROMANTIC DECK DINNER – Tokoriki is TripAdvisor’s #1 Resort for Romance in Fiji and it’s no surprise when guests enjoy beautiful food overlooking the amazing Fiji sunsets. Their talented Chefs create the perfect dining experience to match breathtaking sunset locations UNLIMITED SPA – Enjoy three days of unlimited massages for as little as FJ$390 per person.

Treat yourself to the ultimate indulgence with the unlimited massages package. Treatment times are limited to 60 minutes and subject to availability.

Want more? Just add extra days at FJ$100 per day per person and you’ll be guaranteed to relax & unwind.

92 | Islandliving pacific

“Enjoy three days of unlimited massages for as little as FJ$390 per person.

Treat yourself to the ultimate indulgence.”

Warwick Le Lagon Discover South Pacific charm at Warwick Le Lagon – Vanuatu. Situated on 75 acres of tropical, tranquil gardens on the edge of the pristine Erakor Lagoon, the resort is a five-minute drive to Port Vila township and 15 minutes from the airport.

Warwick Le Lagon has an established reputation for appealing to couples and families with its variety of 143 guestrooms in a range of configurations as well as bungalows, the newly refurbished over-water villas, Lagoon Pool Villas and the Erakor Residence. Incorporating Melanesian-style furnishings and local art, accommodation boasts furnished balconies and patios with amenities that include refrigerators, satellite TVs, safes and mini bars.

Discover new levels of luxury and enjoy being spoiled with individual attention in the elegant surroundings in the private villas with individual plunge pools. Pacific Pool, Shefa Pool, and Efate Pool Villas, cocooned behind high walls, promise seclusion. They feature luxurious interiors with spacious living areas and bedrooms, a private deck as well as an individual pool. The latest addition to the Luxury Collection are the newly refurbished Overwater Vilas. Each offering picturesque views of Erakor Lagoon, each room features premium interior furnishing and a private balcony.

Warwick Le Lagon guests can enjoy three restaurants that offer delectable South Pacific, Asian and fusion cuisine, including the renowned Santo beef of Vanuatu.

Enjoy the BBQ Pool Grill at lunch, the renowned Wild Ginger for Fusion cuisine, or visit Lagoon Terrace for themed buffets or the Ă la carte menu.

DIN IN G

Sangeeta visits the Suva markets early every Saturday to get the freshest catch

THE MARKET GARDENS OF EDEN

T

he capital of Fiji, up until recently had not been known as a tourist town. Home to embassies and NGOs, regional headquarters and Fiji’s biggest population, Suva was all about business travel.

The re-opening of the Grand Pacific Hotel and Fiji Airways’ direct flights from Sydney and Auckland have seen more visitors arrive in recent years to check out the capital.

One thing Suva has had for many years now, is some of the best restaurants in the Pacific. Eden, owned and operated by the formidable Sangeeta Maharaj is in a class of its own.

Sangeeta visits the Suva markets early every Saturday to get the freshest catch, most aromatic spices and crunchy vegetables to ensure her restaurant guests enjoy a fabulous

94 | Islandliving pacific

meal. A walk through the Suva markets with Sangeeta is a true Fijian experience – her favourite farmers all greet her with huge smiles and save their best catch for her.

Eden’s menu is extensive – from Pacific flavours to Indian favourites, Thai curries to New Zealand Lamb. The seafood is the best available in Fiji and Sangeeta’s curry pastes are all homemade.

Sangeeta loves to travel and when she does she takes cooking classes along the way, bringing home new recipes to extend her menu.

Eden is located near the American embassy, on the corner of Bureta and Maharaj Streets. Bookings are required for most nights due to its popularity. •

DINING

The Sheraton Fiji Resort is renowned for its location and service. The addition of Vai guarantees ‘an explosion of flavour’.

VAI RESTAURANT AND BAR, SHERATON FIJI RESORT

D

enarau is Fiji's home to luxury hotels with the Sheraton Fiji Resort first among equals so it's no surprise that its new restaurant offering, Vai is a cracker.

Situated on the beach with 180-degree ocean views and stunning sunsets, Vai captures the heart and soul of Fiji. ‘Vai’ meaning ray fish or stingray in local dialect, brings to the Pacific an explosion of Mediterranean flavour. Chef Camilo Vanazzi originally from Brazil delivers his favourite recipes to Fiji.

Camilo has travelled through France, Spain and Italy gathering a wealth of knowledge in culinary expertise.

Before arriving in Fiji, he worked in several two- and threeMichelin star restaurants including La Cote Saint Jacques at Bourgogne in France.

Camilo is a lover of nature and everything that it provides. From its fresh and tasty food to moments of quiet contemplation such as surfing and yoga.

“My father used to cook at home and from an early age I helped him cut and prepare our dinners. It was from this moment that I wished to prepare them day by day and make it my lifestyle.”

The Vai experience begins with an adults-only ocean side breakfast which flows seamlessly through to a Mediterranean inspired lunch menu, with subtle salads, fresh seafood and handmade pasta. Dinner tops out with an extensive selection of freshly caught lobsters, mud crab and slipper bugs cooked to perfection.•

“Sinfully Good Food”

P: 338 6246 | Facebook: edenfiji E: eden@connect.com.fj www@edenfiji.com.fj Cnr Bureta & Maharaj St, Tamavua, Suva

96 | Islandliving pacific

C H R I S T IAN A COOK S

s d o g e h t f Food o

Chocolate W

ho doesn’t like chocolate? Be it in a cake, mousse, ice cream, in decadent chocolate truffles or in a hot chocolate drink. I used to make one of those drinks during cool nights on my watch on our sailing yacht. We called it ‘Lumumba’, hot chocolate with a good dash of rum, warms you through from top to toe!

My first encounter with cocoa beans was on the Caribbean island of Dominica. A local lady gave me a dark brown mass in the shape of a golf ball. Not sure what it was, I smelled it and looked at her questionably. She laughed and told me that it was cocoa “very good for drink, must put hot water and sugar”.

The locals dry and roast the cocoa beans, grate them and pound them into a kind of dough. Then roll the dough into small balls, the right portion for one hot chocolate.

The story of chocolate For more than 4000 years, people of the world have turned to the delicacy of chocolate for rituals, medicine, romance and sheer pleasure.

The cacao tree is native to the Amazon Basin. The Olmec, Mayans and Aztecs first consumed cocoa as a bitter beverage rather than a sweet edible treat. They consumed the drink at ceremonies and human sacrifices.

The cocoa bean was a common currency throughout Mesoamerica before the Spanish conquest.

And though cocoa originated as a bitter drink in ancient cultures; today this wonder bean is used in all sorts of delicious ways.

Chocolate’s journey continues with the introduction of milk and sugar to the bitter drink and the invention of the solid bar of chocolate leading to chocolate’s popularisation through big

98 | Islandliving pacific

British and Swiss companies such as Nestlé and Cadbury.

Cacao trees grow in a limited geographical zone, ranging from about 20° north and south of the Equator. Seventy per cent of the world crop today is grown in West Africa. A Swedish natural scientist gave the plant its botanical name Theobroma cacao (‘food of the gods’).

Cocoa has been produced in Vanuatu since the 14th century and is grown throughout the islands. Though Vanuatu remains a small player in the global cocoa trade representing less than one per cent of production.

During recent years Vanuatu has established its own chocolate factory and is producing hand crafted organic artisan chocolate, made from bean to bar in Vanuatu.

Six Proven Health Benefits of Dark Chocolate 1. Dark chocolate is loaded with nutrients that can positively affect your health. Made from the seed of the cocoa tree, it is one of the best sources of antioxidants on the planet.

2. Quality dark chocolate (not the sugary rubbish) is loaded with nutrients that can positively affect your health. It is rich in fibre,iron, magnesium, copper, manganese and a few other minerals.

3. Cocoa and dark chocolate have a wide variety of powerful antioxidants. In fact, they have way more than most other foods.

4. The bioactive compounds in cocoa may decrease high blood pressure. Observational studies show a drastic reduction in heart disease risk among those who consume the most chocolate.

5. Studies show that the flavones from cocoa can improve blood flow to the skin and protect it from sun damage.

6. Cocoa or dark chocolate may improve brain function by increasing blood flow. It also contains stimulants like caffeine and Theobromine.

Dark chocolate is produced by adding fat and sugar to cocoa.

It differs from milk chocolate in that it contains little to no milk solids. iron, magnesium, copper, manganese and a few other minerals.

PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha.

For more than 4000 years, people of the world have turned to the delicacy of chocolate for rituals, medicine, romance and sheer pleasure.

By Christiana Kaluscha

Chocolate Pavlova with Raspberries (8 Servings) This was adapted from Nigella Lawson — I changed the shape with 2 layers, use a little more chocolate, added salt and use less sugar. It makes a big, pillowy and very chocolaty Pavlova, delicious with the raspberry topping.

MERINGUE • 8 large egg whites • 1 ¾ cups caster sugar • A couple pinches of sea salt • 1 Tsp. Balsamic vinegar • 1/3 cup good quality cocoa powder, sifted • 100 g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped To finish • 2 cups heavy cream • 3 teaspoons caster sugar • 2 teaspoon vanilla extract • 4 cups raspberries • 30 grams bittersweet chocolate, to finish • Some mint sprigs to garnish

METHOD • Heat your oven to 180 C. • Draw 2 x 15 cm circles on a sheet of baking paper and flip the paper over so that you can see the line but it won’t get into the Pavlova.

• Beat the egg whites with a mixer until peaks form and then beat in the sugar a spoonful at a time until the meringue is stiff and shiny. Sprinkle the sea salt, cocoa, vinegar and then the chopped chocolate over the egg whites and gently fold everything with a rubber spatula.

• Shape the Pavlova: You can secure the parchment to the baking sheet with a dab of meringue underneath it. Mound the meringue into the two 15cm circles, smoothing the sides and top.

• Bake the meringue: Place in the oven and immediately turn the temperature down to 150 C. The Pavlova will bake for 60 to 90 minutes, but most likely in the middle. When it’s ready it should look crisp on top and feel dry, but when you prod the center it should feel squidgy. Turn the oven off, leave the door slightly open, and let the meringue cool completely inside. You can leave it overnight. It can also be kept at room temperature until needed.

• To serve: When you’re ready to serve, invert the cooled Pavlova onto a big plate and peel off the parchment.

• Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla until soft peaks form.

• Pile it onto one of the meringue rings. Sit the second meringue ring on top; fill it with the remaining cream. Scatter with berries and shave chocolate over with a vegetable peeler and decorate with mint sprigs. Serve in wedges and keep leftovers in fridge.

islandliving | 99 pacific

Dark Chocolate Rum Truffles; Above right: Coffee Mascarpone Layered Cake with Coffee Liqueur and dark Chocolate Ganache

Dark Chocolate Rum Truffles These are my favourite home made truffles. Easy to make and hard to resist. You can add Cognac or Champagne instead of the Rum. Tip: A pair of disposable latex gloves will help your hands stay clean while rolling the truffles.

INGREDIENTS • 1/2-cup heavy cream • 250 g good-quality (70 percent) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped • 1Tsp. pure vanilla extract • 20 ml Rum • 1 cup cocoa powder, for dusting

METHOD • In a saucepan, bring the cream just to a simmer over medium-low to low heat. Pour the cream over the chocolate in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand about 10 minutes to melt the chocolate.

• Add the vanilla and stir until smooth. Set aside to cool to room temperature, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

• Beat the chocolate at medium speed, using an electric mixer, until it is thick and light coloured. If the chocolate has cooled enough, it will be ready to form truffles right away. If the chocolate is still too soft to hold its shape when rolled in a ball, spread over the bottom of a baking dish and smooth the top. Refrigerate until firmed, but still scoopable, up to 2 hours.

• Pour the cocoa powder onto a deep plate or shallow bowl.

Use a melon baller or small ice cream scoop to scoop out balls of chocolate and gently roll into a ball. Place them on the plate with the cocoa powder and roll between 2 forks to completely coat with the cocoa powder. Then use the forks to carefully transfer them to a baking sheet lined with parchment or waxed paper.

• If making the truffles a day or two ahead of time, let them stand at room temperature before serving.

Easy Chocolate Lava Cake (4 servings) This is an easy recipe and quick to make. You just have to watch the baking time!

INGREDIENTS • Baking spray, for spraying custard cups • 125 g butter • 120 g bittersweet chocolate • 1 1/4 cups powdered sugar • 2 whole eggs • 3 egg yolks • 1 Tsp. vanilla • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour • Vanilla ice cream, for serving

100 | Islandliving pacific

METHOD • Preheat the oven to 220 C. • Spray four custard cups with baking spray and place on a baking sheet.

• Microwave the butter, bittersweet chocolate and semisweet chocolate in a large bowl on high until the butter is melted, about 1 minute.

• Whisk until the chocolate is also melted.

• Stir in the sugar until well blended.

• Whisk in the eggs and egg yolks, add the vanilla.

• Stir in the flour.

• Divide the mixture among the custard cups.

• Bake until the sides are firm and the centers are soft, about 13 minutes. Let stand 1 minute. Invert on individual plates while warm and serve with vanilla ice cream.

FITNE SS

How to set your Fitness Goals

"Look around, chances are there are at least two fields ideal for working out in for at least 30 minutes a day, weather permitting."

Lauren Jagger comes up with 12 pointers that you can add into your own daily lifestyle to help keep you accountable for your health and fitness goals and keep you on track.

W

henever a new year approaches there’s a common notion going round that everyone must overhaul their life and start running marathons and entering ocean swims. This needn’t be the case if you are genuinely keen to ensure that your fitness and health goals stick and that you don’t fall off the wagon come March.

We all have certain goals that we wish to achieve but sometimes life has a way of getting in the way and before we

102 | Islandliving pacific

know it half the year has gone and finding that motivation to start becomes harder and harder.

In the islands it can often be hard to find the perfect venues to work out but look around, chances are there are at least two fields ideal for working out in for at least 30 minutes a day, weather permitting. Even if you decide to start with 10 minutes a day of exercise then that is the perfect start. Jump off the bus a few stops earlier and walk the rest of the distance, use

the weekend to go swimming at the beach, designate one day whereby you prepare healthy snacks for the rest of the week.

Here are a few pointers that you can add into your own daily lifestyle to help keep you accountable for your health and fitness goals and keep you on track.

1

. Tell a friend: In the islands there is very little that you can keep secret even if you wanted to, so use this to your advantage and let as many people as possible know your goals related to keeping fit and being healthy. You don’t have to lay your entire life out to them but even if every time you saw them it simply reminded you that they know your goals, it’s a way of reminding you of what you have set out to achieve. . Choose an accountability partner: This person needs to be someone close such as a family member or partner that sees you on a regular basis and can keep an eye on you and hold you accountable when it comes to working out and eating healthily. Be prepared to have a love-hate relationship with this person as they are the ones asking why you haven’t worked out this week or stopping you eating that delicious chocolate bar – but persevere, their role is vital and you will thank them later. . Write it down: who doesn’t love a good list? This is a great way to visually see what you are doing and helps you be realistic, to see exactly when you can work out and if you are doing too much or not enough. . Set yourself small weekly targets: Rome wasn’t built in a day and if it was there’s a good chance it would be very superficial and eventually fall apart. It’s the same with our fitness goals, you aren’t going to lose two kilos in a week but you are likely to lose 500gm or be able to do 10 burpees instead of the five you started on. Slow and steady wins the race and setting yourself small achievable targets will keep you focused on your goals, and who doesn’t love a small win to keep you motivated? . Set yourself quarterly/yearly goals: These goals should be on a slightly larger scale, including areas such as limiting your sugar intake by half by the next quarter or ensuring you are active for 30 minutes a day. These goals will ultimately be harder to achieve therefore need longer to work at them, but they aren’t unachievable they just need regular work in order for them to become habit. . Plan ahead for speed bumps: If you know your job takes you on the road or that there is a birthday party just around the corner then do not worry, one of the best sayings is ‘proper planning prevents poor performance.’ This is key for making sure you don’t take 10 steps backwards and undo all of your hard earned progress. Make healthy snacks such as nuts, fruit, or egg white and vegetable muffins to take to work for when you know you will get hungry. For birthday parties or events choose drinks that don’t contain a mass of sugar or artificial colourings. When you are on the road with work plan ahead for gyms to use in the hotel or nearby parks where you can go for a run.

2

3 4

5 6

7

. Track your progress: This is key for you to see in what areas you are making progress and what areas you need to work on especially if you are working with weights and need to keep track of your repetitions and the size of the weights. This also allows you to see that if you are beginning to plateau then your body is becoming resilient to the workouts and you need to up the intensity and push your goals to the next level. . Reward yourself accordingly: In business if you achieved a goal the likelihood is that you would get a bonus or a promotion so why restrict yourself when it comes to goals in health or fitness? Rewards don’t have to be covered in chocolate it could be rewarding yourself with a spa day, a weekend away with loved ones or simply a lunch out with your best friend. . Be truthful with yourself: When someone asks what you’ve eaten this week do you bend the truth slightly?

Don’t worry we all do it – but we have to be realistic with ourselves as to what we would've liked to have eaten and what we actually consumed, sometimes they are worlds apart.

If your skin is beginning to break out or your mood is low and you feel lethargic you need to focus in on what you are eating and your overall diet as it may be time for an overhaul. . Know your own perfect: For one individual perfect for them is a toned physique with curves and for another it’s having 8% body fat with an ectomorph frame – be true to what you believe is beautiful and what you desire to look or feel like. Know that everyone has their own version of what healthy looks like and being healthy doesn’t necessarily mean losing weight it can just simply mean promising yourself to have 2 litres of water a day and reducing the amount of artificial sugars that you consume. . Don’t make excuses: This is the easiest thing in the world to do and in the Islands we have plenty to choose from, ‘it’s too hot, it’s too wet, it’s too dry, everyone’s at the beach’ the list is endless. Know that you are going to wake up some days and think ‘not today’ and that’s ok you should listen to your body but the key is to differentiate your body needing time to recover from working out to your mind repeatedly telling you it’s too lazy to workout. . Make working out fun: Life is too short not to be happy in anything that we do. So if you know that you love being with your friends then invite them along for a walk or to a local gym workout session – you will be more productive in your workouts if you enjoy them and don’t see them as a chore.

8 9

10

11

12

Whatever your fitness or health related goals are this is the year to turn them into reality. Gone are the ‘I’ll start tomorrow’ excuses now is the time to act and now is the chance to reward yourself with the healthy lifestyle you deserve.

Lauren Jagger is the Creative Director of Bulalicious Activewear, creators of surf, swim and gym wear for active females and is available online at www.bulalicous.com with free shipping offered worldwide.•

islandliving | 103 pacific

THE ESSENTIAL

VANUATU SECOND EDITION

THE ESSENTIAL VANUATU Second Edition is the ultimate souvenir of your Vanuatu visit or the perfect gift for friends who haven’t experienced paradise.

Pick up your copy throughout Vanuatu for RRP VT3900 or order directly from www.theessentialvanuatu.com

ON SALE NOW

Email: essentialvanuatu@photogenicpr.com

or+678 26 108 E: info@paua.co W: www.paua.co for villa details

Vanuatu’s Most Sophisticated

BeachfrontVilla Rentals

Paua offer beachfron area of Efa tion in-gro In-house c concierge ‘private res Paua villas be profess

M

W: www.paua.co

5-star TripAdvisor rating

S

+ CON

Islandliving pacific

Islandliving PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | AUTUMN 2019 | LIVING THE DREAM

AUTUMN 2019 | ISSUE 27

Seaside

Style

SURF I DIVE I SKI

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | NORFOLK ISLAND SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

ISSUE 27

Australia & NZ, Fiji, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Inflight magazines for Nauru Airlines and Samoa Airways

EN T

And Real Estate Sales

pacific

For advertising and distribution enquires contact Rebecca Murphy +64 21 951 342 Sales@photogenicpr.com

Contact C T: +678 5 or+678 2 W: www.

U PA A

Contact Christiana or Toga.

T: (678) 555 4001or (678) 555 4002 E: info@paua.co

E MANAG

Air Conditioning Free Wifi Bungalows Family Apartments Restaurant & Bar Swimming Pool Beach Frontage The Coolidge Bar & Grill Close to Town GREAT FOOD - COLD BEER & Airport PIZZAS - EAT IN OR TAKE AWAY Sea Breezes For orders & bookings 36 881

Paua Villas offers a range of spectacular private, absolute beachfront villas in the Whitesands/ Narpow Point area of Efaté. On-site staff and en-suite accommodation in-ground pool plus private beach available.

UL TAN Y C

Red Corner, Luganville Ph (+678) 36 911 Stay@TheBeachfrontResort.com TheBeachfrontResort.com

islandliving | 105 pacific

H E A LTH Y LIV ING

g n i l a e h hydro

Sea Change Georgie Gordon reveals the healing power of the ocean. Not only is it good for the soul, it's a food source rich in vitamins and minerals, soak it up!

T

he sea has been recognised for its mysterious healing benefits long before 16th century physicians recommended a dip in the cold ocean as a remedy for ailments varying from melancholy to contracting tumours.

Classical texts of Hippocrates and Celsus reveal the custom of drinking seawater for health, a practise that was revived by 18th century doctors to treat leprosy. Thankfully, we’ve come a long way from drinking pints of seawater but what do we know about the ocean’s power to heal? There is plenty of anecdotal evidence of how a surf or a dip in the ocean goes beyond the invigorating and restorative effects of cold sea water. Australian musician and surfer Xavier Rudd said “For me, surfing is as close a connection I can have with Mother Nature. To surf, you're riding a pulse of energy from Mother Nature. And it's strong. It's real. It's there. And you're dancing with that. You're connecting with that. You might be the only person in the history of the universe that connects with that particular pulse of energy.”

In addition to wellness advocates professing a multitude oceanic benefits, scientists have been studying it for

106 | Islandliving pacific

centuries and the results are far reaching. From why a beach environment alleviates stress to the ‘food as medicine’ healing properties of marine life, we are slowly unlocking the secrets of the sea.

Meditative benefits

Just by being in (or on) the ocean, swimming, water-skiing, surfing or even diving, you are doing yourself a favour. Exercise is the first step to optimal health, but the ocean can lead us to better mental health too.

Lapping waves, soaring skies and the fresh smell of salt water, it’s no wonder the beach is a popular place to clear one’s head, however, it seems there is a bit more to it. Recent studies show that being by the coast can have a profound impact on our brain and mental health.

The repeated crashing of waves has a meditative effect, the white noise of which people try to replicate in deprivation floats and play to newborn babies to get them to sleep. Orfeu Buxton an associate professor in biobehavioural health at Pennsylvania State University says the slow whooshing noises

calm people as our brains interpret these sounds as nonthreatening, and the state this induces allows our brains to heal and strengthen.

Also, studies show when we are exposed to certain colours they can have different psychological, emotional and physical effects. Blue, the colour of the ocean, has a particularly calming effect. According to some clinical psychologists staring at the ocean can actually change the frequency of our brain waves and put us into a mild meditative state.

A rich source of vitamins

Then there’s the negative ions. Salty sea air is made up of oxygen ions with an extra electron attached from the water molecules and they can have a profound effect on our state of mind. In 1932 American researcher Dr Clarence Hansell documented that negative ions made his colleagues’ mood upbeat and, conversely, positive ions promoted malaise. Since then many studies have been conducted, particularly around SAD (seasonal affective disorder) proving a positive outcome on the brain.

Another way the ocean can boost our health is by eating from the rich and varied menu of marine life. We know that fish is exceptionally good for us. Not only is it an important source of protein, it is packed with essential fatty acids in the form of omega 3 oils – crucial for body and brain function and strongly linked to the reduced risk of many diseases. Fish is also rich in vitamins D and B2 and a good source of calcium, iron, zinc, and magnesium.

And not forgetting the ocean’s plant life, kelp is one of the most nutrient dense foods available to us. Naturally high in antioxidants which help fight disease causing free radicals it is also a veritable multi-vitamin with A, B1, C, D, E to name but a few. The myriad health benefits of sea vegetables include antiinflammatory properties, virus protection, blood clot reduction and blood sugar regulation.

So, however you choose to harness the ocean’s positive health benefits: swimming or surfing in it; taking advantage of the calming nature of the sea; or committing to more seafood in your diet, you’ll be feeling and looking better for it. Just don’t drink the sea water. •

islandliving | 107 pacific

ABOD E

s r e p e e k Book

Shelf Life

“A house without books is like a room without windows,� said the much-quoted Horace Mann.

It would also be a house without bookshelves which Toby Preston believes would not only be a literary tragedy but also a missed decorating opportunity.

Below: A modular wall of shelving designed for more than books, wire up your television, display your family photos or favourite

108 | Islandliving pacific

collections of objet d’art. Below: A clever shelving solution around an entry. Above: The spectacular British Museum Reading Room.

PICTURES: Craig Osment + Wikipedia

A

comedian once said when given a book as a gift “why do I need another book I already have one”. If that were the case then it was probably statistically the Bible which is reputed to be the world’s biggest selling book with total ‘sales’ of 5 billion copies (we have to assume that some of those are giveaway copies of the Gideon’s edition found in motel and hotel bedside drawers around the world). That number puts J.K. Rowling at 500 million in the shade but she retains copyright.

Anyone who has ever moved house will attest to the efficiency of bookshelves, the number of boxes required to move a bookshelf’s worth of books is a constant amazement.

But bookshelves do more than simply store your beloved tomes, they also enhance homes and lend warmth and personality to any room. Not to mention reveal something of the personality of the owners. It’s always fascinating to browse the bookshelves of people you’ve not previousy met or those in houses for sale to get a fix on who lives there. Book collections are almost as revealing as reading a diary. They can disclose the owners intellectual pursuits, hobbies and enthusiasms, professional interests and sense of order. They also provide a decorating focal point to any room, the colours, textures, and arrangements make for an instant feature wall or nook.

Under the stairs across doorways, entire rooms – whatever your choice or restrictions in displaying your books, they add personality to any space.

From grand public libraries to one room apartments arranging books has been a constant since the invention of the printing press. From the elaborate timber and gilt of Rio’s Real Gabinete

islandliving | 109 pacific

Português de Leitura which is the oldest Portuguese institution in Brazil and houses a collection of 350,000 volumes to the contents of your classic Billy bookcase from Ikea, there’s a bookshelf design for every need. Even the Billy which started life as a simple single unit is now available in multiples that can be fitted with doors, drawers, glass windows or arranged as corner units or whole walls.

And if you don’t have room for a bookshelf then make room on your coffee table for the ubiquitous coffee table book. Indeed there coffee tables that are made from faux stacked books which makes them book coffee tables I suppose. Either way there’s no excuse not to display books even if they don’t appear to have been opened much recently. And the books themselves make a nice plinth for a little sculpture or objet d’art, so get inventive with your bigger books and assume an air of literary competence at the same time even if your pulp paperbacks are hidden in a cupboard.

It has often been said of architects that the last place they ever complete is their own and the best way of knowing that is to check if their books are still stacked on bare timber supported by bricks while they await the money or the inspiration for the perfect bookshelf. But a bespoke bookshelf needn’t cost the earth, there’s not much difference between kitchen cabinetry and a bookshelf in these days of melamime coated chipboard, so either get a tradesman to quote or start making something yourself with precut timber to your own design. Simple and white is easy as the books do all the work when it comes to colour and a simple white line between shelves can be perfect.

That said there are any number of inventive ways to use the shelving to accommodate more than just books. Collections of jugs, pottery, artefacts, hi fi equipment, television screens, fold-down work stations, cupboards and drawers are just some of the neccessities you can build into to your personal library.

Right: The bookshelf as art: This installation

by British artist Yinka Shonibare was commissioned in conjunction with the Cleveland Public Library. It consists of 6,000 books covered in wax printed batik textile displayed in an open bookcase. The spine of each book features the name of a notable immigrant. Far right: load up the coffee table with big books and artefacts.

110 | Islandliving pacific

Top left to right: Rio’s Real Gabinete Português de Leitura (Portuguese Royal Cabinet

of Reading); baroque Viennese bookcase; simple modern cantilever shelving. Above left to right: Modern and modular, the book as a plinth.

islandliving | 111 pacific

A R T S MAR T

s e t i r u o v a f t n Fo

Type-Cast

The old saying goes; ‘you can’t tell a book by its cover’ but graphic designers and typographers try to tell at least a genre if not literary merit by cover design and the choice of font is critical to sending a sub conscious message about content and style in so many designs. Toby Preston is the font of ...

114 | Islandliving pacific

Opposite page: The Bauhaus design movement pioneered a graphic design ‘look’ that endures to this day; Futura says Modernism; clever freeform typographic art; Left: Vintage anatomy of a font chart. Below left: Type talks many languages in this instance a clever intertwining of cursive elements forms a cute whole. Below: Gritty , distressed and urban, says it all.

I

n a former incarnation as a graphic designer I was obliged to attend art school and in an effort to accommodate those of us who were going to go 'commercial' one course subject was typography. This was pre-computer, type was often made of lead and compositors placed lines of metal into galley trays which later had ink rolled over the type’s raised surface which was then transferred to paper. How quaint!

We also had access to Letraset, which was a huge advance for designers as suddenly there was a plethora of stylish fonts which could be utilised by the ‘simple’ process of rubbing over a single character at a time and transferring it from a plastic carrier sheet to a white art page, and given the limited number of letters on each sheet there was the constant frustration of running out As or Zs and having to buy an entire new sheet for just one letter. But it was the best we had.

In those days the only people who knew much about the choice of fonts were graphic designers, sub editors and the above mentioned compositors. Typography was an art form and many fonts were hand drawn for specialist purposes, logos and for distinctiveness. For 'civilians' who chose a

mechanical means of writing, the typewriter was about as much choice as one had, so the font choice was what is now known as – yes, 'typewriter'.

Now that everyone has a keyboard to hand and a computer pre-loaded with more fonts than anyone should have access to, some of the greatest typographic travesties occur every day in offices around the world where amateurs delude themselves into believing that they are typographers or graphic designers. Just as being able to type on a keyboard doesn't make one a writer, using a smorgasbord of inappropriate fonts doesn't make one a designer.

Typefaces speak so many languages, both literally and figuratively. There are classic and elegant varieties, distressed and down and dirty versions, sleek and modern, brutal or subtle, cursive of angular. Indeed the terminology of the anatomy of type is similar in both scope and nomenclature to human anatomy – in deconstructing a typeface apart from ascenders and descenders and serifs and ligatures other type part terms include, a crotch, an eye, a shoulder, a hairline, an ear ... and a tail.

islandliving | 115 pacific

Islandliving Islandliving Islandliving Islandliving pacific

pacific

pacific

pacific

SUMMER 2018/19 | ISSUE 26

SUMMER 2018/19 | ISSUE 26

SUMMER 2018/19 | ISSUE 26

SUMMER 2018/19 | ISSUE 26

9 772200 956005

9 772200 956005

04

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | KIRIBATI SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

WE ARE SAILING

AU$5 (incl. GST) AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

9 772200 956005

04

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | KIRIBATI SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

ws

e Shipping N PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | SUMMER 2018/19 | LIVING THE DREAM

WE ARE SAILING

AU$5 (incl. GST) AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

The

ws

e Shipping N PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | SUMMER 2018/19 | LIVING THE DREAM

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | KIRIBATI SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | SUMMER 2018/19 | LIVING THE DREAM

04

ISSUE 26

PACIFIC ISLAND LIVING | SUMMER 2018/19 | LIVING THE DREAM ISSUE 26

WE ARE SAILING

AU$5 (incl. GST) AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

The

ws

e Shipping N

ISSUE 26

The

s

ISSUE 26

The

ew Shipping N

WE ARE SAILING

AU$5 (incl. GST) AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

04

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | KIRIBATI SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS PLUS FOOD | FASHION BEAUTY | HEALTH | GARDENS

9 772200 956005

Above: Look familiar?

While the ‘masthead’ font (far letft) on this example of our last cover is called Pacifico, it doesn’t really say Pacific and none other the one on the far right really says Pacific Island Living as we know it. Left: Change the font and change the brand perception. Dell’s normal Futura-like font swapped for Algerian and the brand values disappear in an instant. Along with style!

Below left to right: Which is the scariest font here?; the word ‘vintage’ isn’t the only cue to age; you can tell a book by its cover, fiction comes with

116 | Islandliving pacific

Alfa Romeo like many car companies has been using a variation on its historic early logos over the decades with only subtle variations obvious when seen side by side.

Below: This would suit a nice Camembert or Brie.

font choices to match; two favourites – Helvetica (this caption is in Helvetica 55 Roman) is the world’s most popular sans serif font with Times a serif fave.

TIMES

So while there are many elements in common to the construction of a font there are also endless possibilities for communicating almost visceral messages when choosing a typeface for a particular purpose. For a book cover, there are very definite messages being conveyed in the simple choice of font – apart from any other visual clues.

Crime, thriller and spy novels are often easily recognised by the use of bold sans serif fonts where as 'literature' tends to favour something a little more classic with a serif. Likewise what separates your soap powder packaging from your corn flakes is largely due to font choices too as is the case with logos, car badging, letterhead and business card designs, posters, signage – anything at all where a typeface choice is being made. It's not simply about signalling quality it's also about signalling appeal to a particular audience – e.g. magazine covers! •

islandliving | 117 pacific

A sustainable eco-experience for the whole family, set in a stunning tropical paradise

Join us for the Eden Experience, Port Vila | Contact +678 7710765

THE ESSENTIAL

SECOND E DITION

SECOND E DITION

INvES TmENT

I FINAN CE I TOurI Sm I GEOG rApHy theessen tialvanu

1

CASA 129AOC.0067

Global

Sea & Airfreight Services To the Pacific Islands Contact us today and put Vanguard’s years of island experience & extensive global network to work for you.

American Samoa

Kiribati

Solomon Islands

Cook Islands

New Caledonia

Tahiti

Fiji

Papua New Guinea

Tonga

Funafuti

Samoa

Vanuatu

vanguardlogistics.com

118 | Islandliving pacific

ON SA L E NOW

VANU ATU

SECOND EDITION

THE ESSEN TIAL

THE ESSEN TIAL

VANUATU

VANUATU

atu.com

I HISTO ry I CuLTu rE

International Freight Forwarding Specialists How Can We Help?

■ Air

Freight

■ Sea ■ Air

Clearance

■ Warehousing ■ Project ■ In

exporting, air freight and sea freight, Project

& Sea Charter

■ International

Logistics and Distribution

Management

House Dangerous Goods

Specialists

range of freight forwarding and international logistics services, including importing and

Freight

■ Customs

■ Cargo Transport Systems offers a complete

Management, Dangerous Goods Services, Quarantine and Customs clearance as well as warehousing and distribution. With a truly global freight forwarding network, Cargo Transport Systems can take care of all your international shipping needs.

■ As we have our own warehouse and a team of qualified international logistics experts in-house, we can provide a personalised service and customise a freight forwarding solution specific to your needs. We have shipped cargo as small as 200 grams through to equipment as big as 200 tons.

Head Office: 3 Viola Place, Brisbane Airport, Queensland 4008 Australia Phone: +61 7 3363 0400 | Fax: +61 7 3860 4322 info@cargotransport.com.au | www.cargotransport.com.au

PA C I FIC PU LS E

Help when needed Helipro expands its medical evacuations throughout the Pacific

H

elipro (Fiji) Limited is a Fijian privately owned and entirely self-funded emergency and medical services provider throughout Fiji and its South Pacific island neighbours.

The company is based in Suva at the Nausori International Airport. Helipro also has an administration, management and coordination office in the hospital precinct in Suva itself.

The company provides a complete end to end and comprehensive emergency 24/7/365 service to tourists, communities and expatriates with its present fleet comprising of its own fully equipped Air Ambulance Helicopter (the only one in the South Pacific Islands) an equally fully equipped Air Ambulance Jet and its own ambulance.

A dedicated team of fifteen local and international management, aviation and medical professionals make up the growing Helipro team. Over half of the team are Fijian.

Helipro is now offering emergency medical evacuations throughout the Pacific – simply call them in Fiji and they will respond immediately.

120 | Islandliving pacific

Helipro has a ‘24/7/365’ emergency number (answered in three rings or less anytime day or night) as well as Fiji’s first dedicated Fijian flight nurse; Fiji’s first dedicated flight paramedics; Fiji’s first paramedic; Fiji’s first dedicated air ambulance helicopter; Fiji’s first dedicated air ambulance jet; and complete case management from receipt of the call including, regular real-time reporting, hospitalisation administration, care of patient support personnel, medical handover, liaising with overseas travel insurance companies, keeping families advised and repatriation overseas for patients if required – ‘one call and we do it all.”

The company’s aim is simply to provide the best possible emergency services and pre-hospital care as professionally, quickly and efficiently as possible to the people and visitors of Fiji and the South Pacific Islands.

Helipro is continually expanding its service offering and footprint thus assisting the tourism industry in ensuring the Pacific is a tourism destination where rapid and complete medical care is readily and easily obtainable. •

To the Max Fiji Airways welcomes its new Boeing 737 MAX 8 and expands oneworld offerings.

F

iji Airways brand new Boeing 737 MAX8 aircraft featuring the oneworld connect logo touched down in Nadi after its delivery flight from the manufacturer’s Seattle base late last year. Four more of these state-of-the-art twinjets will follow this year replacing the older 737s flying on the airline’s short and medium haul network in Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii and neighbouring Pacific Islands. Fiji Airways is the first airline in the region to operate this modern aircraft type.

Oneworld CEO Rob Gurney said: “oneworld is very pleased to welcome Fiji Airways on board as our first oneworld connect partner, making it easier and more rewarding than ever for South Pacific islanders to reach virtually anywhere globally – and for visitors from all around the world to travel to this enchanting and captivating region. The addition of another high quality airline to our alliance builds further on oneworld’s position of alliance leadership across the Pacific.”

Fiji Airways CEO Andre Viljoen stated: “Fiji Airways is thrilled and honoured to be the first oneworld connect partner globally. We are delighted to link Fiji and the South Pacific to the world’s premier airline alliance and further deepen our relationships in particular with Qantas, American Airlines, British Airways and Cathay Pacific.

“This important step for our airline enables us to offer more services and benefits to our own customers along with the others in the oneworld family, to achieve a greater presence for our airline internationally and to build on the in-bound tourism that is so vital to our home nation and our region.”

Customers with Emerald, Sapphire or Ruby status in any oneworld member airline’s frequent flyer programme can now use priority check-in desks, where available, when

flying in any cabin class on Fiji Airways, while customers with Emerald or Sapphire status in any oneworld member airline’s frequent flyer programme will also be offered priority boarding when flying on Fiji Airways.

Additional oneworld connect customer benefits are being phased in between Fiji Airways and its four oneworld sponsors – American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific Airways and Qantas.

Oneworld’s regular range of services and benefits remain in place for customers flying with the alliance’s full member airlines and their affiliates.

Oneworld connect was unveiled in June as the alliance’s first new membership platform since it was originally announced 20 years ago – with Fiji Airways revealed at the same time as oneworld connect’s debut partner.

Oneworld is continuing discussions with other carriers interested in participating in the programme, from various parts of the world including the Americas, Asia-Pacific and Europe.

Each oneworld connect partner will need to have a minimum of three oneworld members as its sponsors to be initiated into the programme.

For full details of oneworld connect and services and benefits offered by Fiji Airways as a oneworld connect partner, see oneworld.com Fiji Airways is the flag carrier of Fiji. It serves 21 destinations in 13 countries and territories, including oneworld hubs Sydney, Hong Kong, Los Angeles and Tokyo.

Fiji Airways operates a fleet of 18 aircraft, including five Airbus A330s (with a sixth joining the fleet shortly), five next generation Boeing 737s and is the first airline in the region to receive and operate brand new 737 MAX8. •

islandliving | 121 pacific

G L O R I OU S GAR DE N S

n o i t a n e rejuv

Moving Right Along Carolyn Ernst says if you can change your hairstyle then why not your garden? As your family grows and changes then your garden should follow suit and keep up with your needs.

L

ast week feeling like a change, I had the top of my hair braided to a side ponytail complete with beads and clipped the bottom half. When asked “why” by my grandson, the answer was “because I can”.

It is mentally good for you and your garden, if occasionally, you sit back and take a good hard look at it and think; can I do this better and what would I like to see different? Remember your garden is an ever changing piece of art, both in the way it grows, how you use it and what you do to change it.

None of us stay the same for our whole life and as explained to me by my school pastor “the success of a good lasting relationship is the skill we have as partners, in maintaining the togetherness, as we change through life.” This holds true for all relationships, including the one with our garden as well.

When our children are young the garden needs to be somewhere for them to explore, play pirates, frolic on playground equipment and hopefully have enough space to play ball. The garden needs shade for those hot days and space to play hide and seek. This garden is not the right place for precious fragile plants, as those tiny feet can be very destructive. As your children grow the garden needs to change, there needs to be space for them to hang out and spend time with their friends, BBQ areas and if you are lucky, a swimming pool, where the neighbourhood children can come together and enjoy those long hot summer days.

Grow vegetables for yourself As your children grow up and leave the nest, it is time to revamp those entertainment areas so that you and your friends, who now have the time, can spend relaxing days

122 | Islandliving pacific

enjoying each other’s company. Moving on, to the later years, your garden needs to change again. Depending on your personal choices, it might need to become low care, as you get the time to travel or it may become the place that you spend your days growing vegetables for yourself and half the neighbourhood. It may also be the place where you bond with your grandchildren and for some, great grandchildren, teaching a new generation to love soil, the healing nature of a garden and the delight of growing things.

Nature spoils control

Changes to the garden do not have to be expensive, OK if the desire is a swimming pool and a blow up sort won’t satisfy this need, there are many options in between a blow up model and the expensive 25 metre in-ground model with all the trimmings. The choice is always yours as to just how much this pool will cost. Some changes to your garden can be minor while others might entail a whole new look, gone are the pastel colours you loved before and in are the vibrant reds and oranges. This does not need to mean removing every plant you have, it could just be the trial of a mass planting of annuals. Let the annuals do their thing and think about how much you like this change of focus. Remember most gardens change spectrum with the seasons, nature seems to have its own way of doing this and if you notice, the pink and lavender plants seem to flower at the same time and at other times the predominate colours are reds and oranges. I am way to uncontrolled to have a garden all one colour and my attempts at colour coordinating have been total failures. Nature has a way of spoiling this control and I have a thing about allowing

“Pink and lavender plants seem to flower at the same time and at other times the predominate colours are reds and oranges.�

nature to do its thing and have a problem with removing plants if they germinate in random locations around the garden. In this way nature has had its say in the ongoing changes of my garden.

PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst

Check for hints online

While a visit to the local nursery is very satisfying on so many levels, there are many ways to get the new plants you desire for your new look. Growing your own, can be immensely satisfying, but will take longer and have none of that instant gratification we are becoming addicted to. The range of seeds available from the local hardware shop or from online shopping is growing, although I have to say, sometimes it might be cheaper to buy a small plant compared to the cost of some of the seeds and the low germination rates of some

of the more exotic types. Add this to my lack of control and the limitless range of seeds available of some online shops, the resulting purchase can be much bigger than intended.

This can be balanced by the sheer sense of satisfaction you achieve when you are successful and you get some exotic seed to grow. Remember to read and check for hints online.

My results doubled when I learnt many Australian natives need smoke for germination. I nearly did myself an injury; smoking my grevillea seeds making sure they got lots of smoke without burning, but boy did it achieve the results. There are now many seedling punnets available at very reasonable prices for not only annuals, flower and vegetables seedlings but also many perennials, like lavender and African daisy. These save time and are often good value. Don’t forget online shopping, especially when looking at mass planting or hedging. These

islandliving | 123 pacific

“Sometimes it might be cheaper to buy a small plant compared to the cost of some of the seeds with their low germination rates”

bulk plants are often readily available at very competitive prices and rarely are there shipping problems. Do find out about your area’s import restrictions, whether they are national or state restrictions. Some online shops are good and will not post to restricted areas, but other feel that it is up to you to know the rules in your area and if your plants or seeds are confiscated, then it is your problem.

Cuttings are another way to propagate new plants and some plants are very easy. Again check out the internet for hints. Remember honey makes a great rooting hormone to promote root growth. I had always had problems propagating frangipani cuttings, until one day I was reading an article on beginner’s propagation and said that one of the easiest things to grow from a cutting was frangipani, but not in my experience. This sparked my interest. Well it turns out the secret is you need to let the ends of your cuttings dry out, you leave them in the shade for 2-3 weeks, or up to 2 months for larger cuttings. I have had success with branch cuttings up to 2 metres tall, instant frangipani trees.

Find the right technique

Some plants come from the division of older established ones; this is true of all bulbs as well as many others, Spathiphyllum are very easily divided and look great if mass planted. Now for the adventurous there is grafting and marcotting (air layering), both of which I would love to do, unfortunately I have had not had the time to try, but many of the local gardening ladies here in Vanuatu are very good at it. Again there are some great

124 | Islandliving pacific

books on the subject, but nothing beats YouTube for stepby-step instructions for idiots. If one clip doesn’t seem to give you all the information you want, try another. I would always recommend you check several sites as each one may explain it in a slightly different way, as well as there being several different techniques, so it is a case of finding the right one for you .

Always have a mobile plant

I think the most important piece of advice I have though, is do not be frightened of change. Like my hairdo, if I didn’t like it, I can change it back again or do something completely different. To quote a very old saying “a change is as good as a rest.” Lawns can come and go, garden beds can change shape grow and then shrink back again. The only thing that is really hard to change is big trees, but they can be part of a whole bushy planting or they can be a beautiful specimen tree in the middle of a lovely green lawn. All trees need an occasional prune so they can be either left to soar or pruned to a manageable height. This is the same with shrubs as well, a good prune never hurt anything. Also my mother said you should always have a mobile plant, this is the one you just can’t find the right place for. This also means most shrubs given the right preparation can be moved at the right time of the year.

As we start a new year remember memories are good but the future is exciting and we need to look forward not back.

Happy gardening! •

Crossword Puzzling questions to while away your holiday. Solution on page 125 ACROSS 1 Small ship (4) 3 Possible starter (4) 10 Great delight (7) 11 Violent weather (5) 12 Hire car (3) 13 Extinct NZ bird (3) 14 Have life (5) 15 Long-necked wading bird (5) 18 A long way (5) 19 In the past (4) 20 Pilot (5) 23 Monetary incentive (5) 24 Have faith in, ____ on (4) 25 A region of the western Pacific (9) 28 Gambling cubes (4) 30 Trinket (5) 31 Team race (5) 34 Composition in verse (4) 35 Theatrical performer (5) 36 Paddled boat (5) 39 Band’s output (5) 40 Prefix meaning environmental (3) 41 Music records, in short (3) 42 Great in size (5) 43 Imaginary earth line (7) 44 Location (4) 45 Take a break (4) DOWN 1 Fundamental (5) 2 Distinctive fragrance (5) 4 Being filmed (2,6) 5 Small, rounded stone (6)

6 7 8

Evaluate (6) Daytime performance (7) Unexplained happening (7) 9 Enormous (7) 16 Raw recruit (6) 17 Capital of New Caledonia

(6) 21 Shocked state (6) 22 Large-scale climatic event (2,4) 26 Strong black coffee (8) 27 How beer should be served (3-4)

28 29 32 33 37

Percussionist (7) Large scale photo (5-2) Sailing ships (6) Additional ones (6) Health care professional (5) 38 Incident (5)

islandliving | 125 pacific

SECOND E DITION

VANUA TU SECOND E DITION

SECOND EDITION

THE ESSENT IAL

VANUATU

VANUATU THE ESSEN TIAL

THE ESSENTIAL

INvESTm ENT

theessentia lvanuatu.c

Email: essentialvanuatu@photogenicpr.com

126 | Islandliving pacific

ON SALE NOW

I FINANC E I TOurISm I GEOGrA pHy I HISTOry I CuLTurE om

THE PEOPLE:

Behind Your Magazine

Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag.

TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. Later she joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. She has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for seven years as well as Pacific Island Living and The Essential Vanuatu.

NICOLE BROWN | Art Director Nicole has worked as a senior designer in many areas of publishing prior to becoming immersed in island life on both Pacific Island Living, Malaga and Island Spirit. Nic’s a graduate in graphic design with an advanced diploma to her name as well as a string of consumer magazine design credits.

GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for, design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy, sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food, Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari.

OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s

Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers as well as island-hopping CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila.

PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year there.

CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles.

Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident he is also the publisher of Island Spirit, the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine and The Essential Vanuatu.

REBECCA MURPHY | Advertising Director Rebecca is another exile from New Zealand but has spent the past 17 years travelling extensively through Europe and the Pacific so is thoroughly acclimatised to our region. She lived in PNG and Vanuatu before moving to Suva and is a media junkie having worked in print and radio for ten years.

She loves anything to do with fashion, style and travel and claims to be an ‘all round exceptional person’ and we have to agree.

islandliving | 127 pacific

PAR AV ION

Crowd Control Craig Osment reluctantly shuffles in convoy, trapped in a conga line of cruising consumers eager to absorb the world one port at a time. Over-tourism – a very first world problem.

P

icture this; Santorini, our first day on this quintessential Greek island, all blue and white and cobbled lanes the width of two people abreast. We’re wandering aimlessly and absorbing the Greek ambiance and marvelling at a place only previously seen in brochures and photographs. There are no disappointments, the village of Oia is exactly as expected and blazingly, incandescently brilliant in the spring sunshine. The caldera is sparkling, the boats moored below look like miniature models from this altitude and our only anxiety is a choice of restaurant, they all look inviting, cling to the cliff face, some with octopus drying outside, all with stunning views and promising menus. A perfect day!

Day two back for another dose of paradise but after a few minutes we are inundated by an invasion of backpack-bearing tourists taking up twice their body space and hustling us along in a torrent of tension and impatience, totally at odds with the pace of the place. Who are these people and where did they come from? The immense car park behind the village reveals a congregation of coaches displaying signs in their windows which read Russian, Chinese, English, German, French, Polish … A united nations of neophyte boat people have just been unloaded after the short ride from Fira, the island capital where the cruise ships moor offshore and disgorge their passengers by the tender boatload to the port below the village.

On our visit to Fira a couple of days later we see four huge ships, some the size of a city block all floating in the caldera, all presumably empty of passengers as they have completely overwhelmed this small island and transformed an intimate experience into something akin to a mass migration. This is tourism on steroids and it is an increasing problem for many places that are being Disneyfied and ‘loved to death’.

Lest I appear elitist about this, I’m equally guilty of the same behaviour, firstly I am on Santorini and enjoying its sights as a tourist, just happens I arrived by plane and have been travelling by car but I’m still a tourist and compounding the over-tourism problem. I’ve also been ‘guilty’ of arriving among a swarm of cruise passengers in cities throughout Europe. Kotor for instance, the Old Town on the gorgeous coastline of Montenegro houses about a thousand locals, on the day our small ship (900 passengers) arrived another larger ship with a capacity of four thousand pulled up alongside and suddenly the locals were engulfed and the population multiplied by five. I’m sure it’s great for business and tourism is the lifeblood of so many places now that whole

128 | Islandliving pacific

economies would collapse if we stopped coming. But how to manage these huge surges?

Venice is notorious for immense influxes of tourists who arrive either from the mainland or on as many as five cruise ships at one time. The area around St Marks Square is almost impassable sometimes and the narrow lanes overwhelmed by impenetrable snaking lines of people following a guide with a flag or umbrella. The locals are abandoning the main island and I sometimes wondered as to how those who still live there manage to get out their doors and do their shopping without being trampled or having to wait until dusk to get to the enoteca or alimentari for their supplies.

Barcelona is suffering the same fate and it has become a political problem with rival parties lining up to curb tourism and particularly badly behaved revellers who have a habit of falling down drunk and sleeping in parks by the beach. Signs are appearing demanding that tourists ‘go home’, the barrios are emptying of despairing long-term residents and El Raval is a hotspot for drug dealers and brawlers. But it’s still a beautiful city and worth the hassle.

Traveller (the Sydney Morning Herald insert) reports on an index undertaken by travel company Intrepid which lists by country those suffering the worst of over-tourism along with the least visited places. The survey created a ‘tourism density index’ which compares total visitor arrivals to the permanent population.

Surprisingly the most crowded country is Croatia with 57 million tourists compared to a population of four million locals or a tourist to local ratio of 1,380 per cent. It’s followed by Iceland which admittedly has a small population base along with a few more predictable destinations such as France, Greece, Singapore and Spain among others.

The least visited country is Tanzania with 1.2 million tourists to a population of 55 million, second on the list and in our region is Papua New Guinea (2.45%), fourth on this list is Indonesia with a population of 260 million compared to visitor numbers of 11 million.

I don’t know what the numbers are for the Pacific but while we all want to attract more tourists and boost our economies I have yet to feel overwhelmed in our part of the world. Sure, we’re all aware when a cruise ship visits Port Vila or Champagne Beach on Santo or moors in Suva or Noumea but locals can hardly complain about inconvenience and indeed we welcome new arrivals and want to share what we have here in paradise. But I guess it’s all about moderation and capacity, obviously the smaller the town or island and the larger the ship then maybe a problem awaits but so far so good for the South Pacific. Keep on coming.•

AIR AMBULANCE & MEDICAL SERVICES

Experienced multi-disciplinary health team, incorporating doctors, nurses and paramedics that can rapidly respond and provide lifesaving treatment, covering Fiji and South Pacific Islands.

24/7/365 Emergency Hot Line: +(679) 770 77 00 With our Land Ambulance, Medevac Jet and Air Ambulance Helicopter, HELIPRO FIJI offers medevac services, Search & Rescue, medical standby for events and filming sets throughout the South Pacific. Our fleet is crewed by highly trained ICU medical staff including flight crew, doctors, nurses and paramedics to provide professional emergency treatment with a seamless transition to further care.

STAY SAFE! Use our QR code to save our emergency details.

www.helipro.com.fj

F I J I ’ S

C R U I S E

L I N E