Pacific Island Living Issue 32

Islandliving pacific

WINTER 2020 | ISSUE 32

THE PRISTINE

PACIFIC AWAITS YOUR

RETURN

FREE

YOUR AL N O S R E P PY CO

RESORT REPORTS FASHION I FOOD ARCHITECTURE I ART STYLE I ADVENTURE

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS

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F R O M TH E PU BLIS H E R S

PICTURE: Craig Osment. Efate, Vanuatu sunset.

I

t’s probably the most overused word of the past several months but ‘unprecedented’ is a perfectly accurate description of the times we have been living in of late.

The COVID-19 pandemic has changed the world, in some places in more tragic ways than others. We in the Pacific have been particularly fortunate in that while outbreaks of infection and death have been so virulent in other parts of the globe, our little corner of the world, in health terms, has remained largely unaffected by the actual virus.

The disruption to our lifestyles has also been less apparent than in numerous other countries but the affect on our economies has been as devastating as any.

In a region that is largely dependent on tourism, the closure of borders has meant hardship for all of us that are reliant on that industry for our livelihoods. No tourists means no hotel and resort bookings, no tours, fewer people in our cafes and restaurants, no passengers on planes, no holiday rentals and no cruise ships.

This has resulted in the loss of jobs and income for everyone in the hospitality industry with a resultant dive in government revenues and the countries’ economies. We all live in hope of an early but sensibly restrained opening of

our borders to those countries considered safe along with stringent precautions throughout the travel process. Obviously the last thing any of us need is an uncontained outbreak of the virus in our pristine islands.

That said, the sooner we can welcome visitors back to the Pacific the sooner we will be able to re-employ all those whose jobs have been on hold.

The obvious affect for the publishers of Pacific Island Living is that all those places where our magazine is usually distributed have been closed or virtually empty, there have been few planes and airport lounges have been closed, empty hotel rooms, closed resorts and many restaurants and cafes shuttered. So rather than printing this, our 32nd edition of Pacific Island Living, we are publishing it electronically and transmitting it to an even larger number of recipients than normal.

We hope you enjoy the magazine and remain inspired by what’s on offer around the islands. And as soon as you are able, get on a plane and get over here for that long denied holiday break in paradise.

Happy reading and hope to see you soon, in print and in our perfectly maintained post-iso paradise.

– Tiffany Carroll and Craig Osment

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Pacific Island Living No 32 | Winter 2020

EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Nicole Brown FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Georgie Gordon, Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Lauren Jagger, David Kirkland, Tony Wilson, Tony Wilson, Liz Ah-Hi, Gerald Ramert, Jemma Senico, Deborah Dickson-Smith, Fiona Harper.

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Regional Relationship Manager - Jemma Senico Email: jemma.senico@photogenicpr.com In Vanuatu: Eva Westfield Email: ewestfield@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited PO Box 1698 Port Vila, Vanuatu Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram

at instagram.com/pacisliving

Or read this and all our magazines online www.pacificislandliving.com

at

COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Samoa Airways or Pacific Island Living.

Pacific Island Living is the official inflight magazine of Nauru Airlines and publisher of Samoa Airways’ inflight magazine Malaga.

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On page 8 you’ll find our fascinating story on the South Pacific’s environmental initiatives, including the conservation of New Caledonia’s turtle egg laying sites.

CONTENTS 4

STAFF BIOGRAPHIES

0 2 0 2 r e t Win

The people behind your magazine.

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TIME TO VISIT THE SUSTAINABLE SOUTH PACIFIC Coming out the other side of a pandemic is the perfect time to show appreciation for what the Pacific has to offer and support the region’s resorts so they can continue with a range of environmental initiatives ranging from tagging manta rays to saving iguana. By Deborah Dickson-Smith.

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NET ASSETS: THE DESIGN FILES

take a closer look at a regional selection.

54

Make next year is the year you dive the Pacific Islands – and help save our oceans. By Deborah Disckson-Smith.

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BOOK LOOK: ECLECTIC SELECTION Georgie Gordon reads her way through a diverse collection of new releases.

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60

22

PICTURE: Pauline Massé

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DESTINATION GUIDE Your portal to the Pacific. The Pacific is made up of some of the most spectacular islands in the world. We

ECO INITIATIVE: AMONG THE MANGROVES AT MOMI BAY Fiji’s Marriot resort at Momi Bay oversaw the planting of 2020 mangroves in an initiative that is designed to restore, maintain and manage the marine ecosystem.

64

CHRISTIANA COOKS: CHICKEN FEED Christiana Kaluscha takes a look at chooks and comes up with two delicious ways to enjoy your poultry.

68

ABODE: OUTDOOR BATHING BEAUTIES Until relatively recently the idea of bathing outdoors might have been seen as a little primitive but in the past few decades upmarket tropical resorts have made the luxurious outdoor shower or bath a de rigeur addition to a seaside holiday. Now everyone’s in on the act.

RESORT REPORT: TAMANU + WHITE GRASS Two of Vanuatu’s most renowned resorts, Efate’s Tamanu on the Beach and Tanna’s White Grass Ocean Resort & Spa.

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MALAMALA’S UNDERWATER GARDEN Fiji’s Malamala Beach Club has undertaken a coral restoration project to ensure its surrounding reef continues to thrive.

FITNESS: TIME TO RESET YOUR LIFE Lauren Jagger of Fiji’s Bulaliicious Activewear comes up with some upbeat advice to avoid the perils of being restricted to your home.

MARITIME MEMORIES: WHAT FLOATS YOUR BOAT? Intrepid sailor Fiona Harper reminisces about her introduction to a life at sea.

LAUGH LINES: FUNNY HA HA AND FUNNY PECULIAR Tony Wilson takes a look at the idiosyncrasies and peccadillos of everyday life in Vanuatu.

Toby Preston logs on to the world’s leading architecture sites and takes a look at some art too.

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DIVE SIGHTS: FIVE REASONS TO DIVE THE SOUTH PACIFIC

64

PAR AVION: SOUNDTRACK TO SANITY Background noise has Toby Preston wondering why it’s become so intrusive and ubiquitous.– it squawks from our household appliances, it comes from our car’s dashboard and its impossible to avoid, well almost!

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THE PEOPLE:

Behind Your Magazine

Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag.

TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. Later she joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. She has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for nine years as well as Pacific Island Living, Malaga and The Essential Vanuatu.

NICOLE BROWN | Art Director Nicole has worked as a senior designer in many areas of publishing prior to becoming immersed in island life on both Pacific Island Living, Malaga and Island Spirit. Nic’s a graduate in graphic design with an advanced diploma to her name as well as a string of consumer magazine design credits.

GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for - design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region, allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific.

CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy, sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food, Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila, from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari.

OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s

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Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers as well as island-hopping.

CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila.

PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year there.

CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles.

Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident, he is also the publisher of Island Spirit, the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine and The Essential Vanuatu.

JEMMA SENICO | Relationship Manager Jemma joined the team at Pacific Island Living and Malaga magazines as our regional relationship manager in 2019.

The Fijian/Aussie has lived and worked across the Pacific in sales and marketing roles and is the co-founder of Pacific Island Tourism Representation.

Jemma loves to travel and is quite the Pacific expert, from Tonga to Vanuatu and everywhere in between.

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T H E E NV IR ON ME NT

e h t t i s i v Time to

Sustainable South Pacific

Coming out the other side of a pandemic is the perfect time to show appreciation for what the Pacific has to offer and support the region’s resorts so they can continue with a range of environmental initiatives from tagging manta rays to saving iguana. By Deborah Dickson-Smith.

A

s we come through the toughest period in history for the travel industry, it seems fitting to focus on the positive, and show appreciation for some of the wonderful work being done by South Pacific resorts and tour operators to look after their precious surrounding environment.

Throughout Fiji, Vanuatu and Solomon Islands, there are many conservation programs, run by passionate individuals in the tourism industry, inspiring their guests to contribute. Here are just a few examples.

Likuliku Lagoon Resort (Ahura Resorts) For 25 years, the critically endangered Fijian Crested Iguana was thought to be completely wiped out on the island of Malolo Levu in Fiji. Then on 13 October 2010, staff at Likuliku Lagoon Resort found an injured female on the resort, a discovery which triggered the property to spearhead a conservation program to save this iconic Fijian species.

Over the next few years, several more individuals were found on the island and in collaboration with researchers from the United States Geological Survey, Taronga Zoo and San Diego Zoo, Ahura Resorts launched a program to save the island’s iguana population.

The program has overseen the eradication of feral species and the regeneration of the island’s tropical dry forest – the iguana’s natural habitat. Since the program started, more and more iguanas have been found on the island and the population appears to be growing.

The iguanas have proved an inspiration to resort staff, who

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now manage an ongoing habitat reforestation program on Malolo Island, managing a nursery of native plants to help stitch the forest back together. Since this program started in 2012, over 3,500 native trees have been planted and visitors to the resort have seen a surge in the numbers of iguanas, other native reptiles, and birds.

The resort’s stewardship now extends to the surrounding marine environment, with ongoing monitoring of water quality and biodiversity in the fringing reefs and periodic replenishing of two in-house coral nurseries.

How guests can help Guests can take part in weekly Iguana Talks to learn about the program, and participate in monthly ‘Plant a Coral Day’ to help replenish the fringing reef.

Captain Cook Cruises Fiji Small ship cruise company Captain Cook Cruises Fiji employs three marine biologists to help educate passengers about Fiji’s marine environment, and last year launched an ‘Ocean Ambassador’ program to help keep Fiji’s islands free of plastic debris.

The ship’s appointed Ocean Ambassador leads teams on beach cleanups, removing plastic waste from the remote beaches and villages visited on Captain Cook Cruises, at the same time educating villagers, and collecting valuable data about the types of waste found in the Fiji Islands.

After each cleanup the debris is sorted, with data uploaded

PICTURE: Sean Scott, Cook Islands Tourism

Sea Women of Melanesia students snorkelling

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Above from left: The Capatian Cook Cruises Fiji crew help with beach cleanup; Surfers survey the water at the Nekweta Surf Camp in Bourail, New

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PICTURES: Likuliku Lagoon Resort; Captain Cook Cruises; Nekweta Surf Camp

Caledonia. Below: For 25 years, the endangered Fijian Crested Iguana was thought to be completely wiped out on the island of Malolo Levu in Fiji.

to Tangaroa Blue, an Australian organisation that analyses data collected by volunteers at beach cleanups, which then works on solutions to stop the flow of litter at the source, providing – for government bodies and manufacturers – data that shows them where specific types of plastic waste have been found, so they can locate the source and find solutions.

According to Managing Director Jackie Charlton, “plastic pollution is a real threat to our oceans, and we have decided to act, to help clean up plastic waste on the remote islands we visit. It’s hard for some of the more remote villages to deal with plastic waste, so we’ve put our hands up to provide this service.”

How guests can help Guests are encouraged to help staff pick up the rubbish at each beach and can also take part planting corals in the company’s coral nursery on Tivua Island.

Dive Munda and the Coral Sea Foundation Dive Munda is a small dive centre in Solomon Islands’ Western Province, that is kicking big goals in sustainable tourism management. The dive centre, run by passionate ocean advocate Belinda Botha, employs 12 local dive guides and is responsible for training the Solomon Islands first ever female dive instructors.

“Every responsible traveller visiting gives strength to the theory of sustainable eco-tourism. We strongly believe in

educating and developing our local communities and people.”

With this ethos, Dive Munda has partnered with the Coral Sea Foundation’s Sea Women of Melanesia program. The program, established in Papua New Guinea by Dr Andy Lewis, CEO of the Coral Sea Foundation, aims to empower local women with the knowledge and skills to become custodians of their environment.

Each year, a group of local women is chosen to participate in a two-week intensive training program which includes training in conservation theory, scuba diving and marine biology survey techniques so they have the skills to communicate the need for marine reserves to their local communities and are able to identify areas suitable for marine protection areas for future conservation.

How guests can help Guests are invited to join the 2-week course (for one week or two), attend the marine biology seminars and enjoy a diving and accommodation package that includes 12 dives per week. Proceeds from each package sold go directly to funding the program.

Nekweta Surf Camp and the Bwärä Marine Turtle Association In 2006, Manu Hernu, the owner of Nekweta Surf Camp in Bourail, New Caledonia, discovered the number of nesting turtles in the region had dropped from 400 to 40 in just 20

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years. To address this drastic decline, he spearheaded the Bwärä Marine Turtle Association initiative.

The association brings together a group of volunteers to help protect the turtles that come to lay their eggs, taking inventories of laying habits, watching over the nests and preserving the laying sites.

During the laying season volunteers check laying sites in the morning and in the evening, monitor egg laying and hatching. Preventive work is also done to minimise threats and disturbance to breeding turtles such as lights, dogs and human behaviour. Much of this is due to a lack of understanding in the local community, so volunteers also run educational programs with schools and tourists to raise awareness.

In addition, volunteers also do a lot of work to revegetate the beaches on which the turtles breed in Bourail and have created a sort of plant ‘barrier’ to isolate the beaches from homes and the road.

How guests can help Between November and May, visitors to New Caledonia can visit the Bwärä team at the entrance to La Roche Percee to learn about the project.•

PICTURES: Luke Gordon and Pauline Massé; M. Dosdane

New Caledonia lagoon where during the laying season volunteers check turtle laying sites morning and evening to monitor egg laying and hatching.

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Kokomo Private Island, Fiji This exclusive private island is fortunate to have the deep pockets of its Australian owner, developer Lang Walker to access in its pursuit of the sustainability of its marine environment.

To ensure the island’s coral and marine life are preserved in pristine condition Walker, a committed conservationist funds the full time services of marine biologist Cliona O’Flaherty who is also a qualified dive instructor and recent winner of the ‘Sustainable Practices Champion’ Award at the Women in Travel Awards.

Cliona insists that the great advantage of working for an individual with a shared zeal is that decisions to advance the cause are made quickly and put into action much faster than traditionally funded academic research.

Cliona has set up a coral nursery to propagate species which are suited to warmer water, they are attached to ropes on a frame and allowed to grow for up to six months before being transplanted to the reef using an adhesive patty of cement and sand with the hope that 2000 corals will be transplanted this year.

In addition to the coral nursery, the island resort has partnered with the world’s leading manta ray research and conservation charities to launch the South Pacific Acoustic Manta Tagging Project.

Developed in conjunction with the UK-based Manta Trust and Manta Project Fiji, the tagging project – the first of its kind in the South Pacific – is led by marine biologist and dive master Luke Gordon who has spent over five years working in Fiji on various conservation topics. Together he and Cliona have implemented interactive practices on the island in order to educate guests firsthand on the importance of conservation.

Graceful, intelligent and curious, manta rays are familiar to resort guests throughout the year, with snorkelling encounters peaking in the period from April – September. Both species

of manta ray are present in Kokomo’s idyllic waters, although each has been listed as vulnerable worldwide by the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

“The manta ray population here has had very little contact with humans which makes these gentle giants some of the most curious and playful mantas,” Project Leader, Luke Gordon said.

“The feeding aggregations [around Kokomo] are currently seen nowhere else in Fiji; being in the middle of a cyclone of 40-plus huge manta rays is an experience you will never forget.”

Since 2017 Kokomo and the Manta Trust has helped increase the size of the Fiji database by more than 60% and beginning in August 2019, the South Pacific Acoustic Manta Tagging Project aimed to tag 18 animals in its first season, with a network of 11 receivers placed around the island to record their movements.

Since 2017 Kokomo and the Manta Trust has helped increase the size of the Fiji database by more than sixty per cent with a network of 11 receivers placed around the island to record their movements.

The South Pacific Acoustic Manta Tagging Project is the latest entry in resort’s suite of environmentally focused sustainability programs. Apart from the coral preservation it builds on initiatives including mangrove reforestation, and a water-bottling plant that minimises single-use plastic.

How guests can help As well as the incredible opportunity to swim among the ocean’s most majestic creatures, resort guests are offered the opportunity to adopt a manta ray by contributing to research efforts. Guests have the chance to name their ray and receive bi-monthly updates on their manta’s progress, including sightings and news from the team’s ongoing research.

- Craig Osment

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NET ASSETS:

The Design Files

From the world’s best architecture to art and graphics – Toby Preston logs on.

DEZEEN The world of online architectonics is well served by three prominent contenders for the best sites for those into design porn, architecture interior design, furniture and building materials. British site Dezeen claims to be ‘the world’s most popular and influential architecture and design magazine’ with a claimed three million monthly visitors.

The daily email newsletter is a terrific resource for industry professionals and amateur browsers alike. It also promotes products and job vacancies as well as sponsoring an awards program. It was launched in 2006 by Marcus Fairs its editor-inchief and founder who previously edited Icon magazine and has been named as one of London’s 1,000 most influential people. dezeen.com

ARCHDAILY The ArchDaily web log is similar to Dezeen but claims to be ‘the most visited architecture website worldwide’ with 160 million page views per month. Started in 2005 as Plataforma Urbana and originally solely based in Santiago, Chile, its co-founder and CEO David Basulto has since established offices in New York, Beijing, Mexico, Brazil and several other countries and now reaches more than half a million readers a day. The site is very much an international influencer famous for its comprehensive coverage of architectural events and its Building of the Year awards. It also has a partnership with the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize. archdaily.com

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ARCHITIZER This site appears to be slightly more industry-focused and suggests that it is the place to go to ‘Discover architectural projects and the manufacturers that bring them to life’.

It’s how architects ‘search for, evaluate and share buildingproducts across teams’. Founded in 2009, its mission is ‘to empower architects with information to build better buildings, better cities and a better world’. It represents 335,000 architects internationally, has more 13 million readers each month and is based in New York City.

Like many architects they have lofty ambitions with social values to match and see their job as job as improving the quality of life for the billions of people who will move to cities over the coming decades, by providing knowledge, tools, and inspiration for those who will meet the challenge of designing for them. Once again the site is highly pictorial with inspiring stories and global projects. architizer.com ARTSY As the name suggests, this site is all about art and features works from the world’s leading galleries, museum collections, foundations, artist estates, art fairs, and benefit auctions, all in one place. Apart from showcasing these works the site seems to primarily be devoted to selling art online. There are currently over 600,000 works available for sale on Artsy, provided by galleries, auction houses, museums, and institutions from around the world. The works range in price from $100 to over $1,000,000, with new ones added every day. They serve as a link between their gallery partners and those interested in collecting. Subscribe to the newsletter and get a regular serving of quality art in your mailbox on an daily basis. artsy.net

BOOK L O O K :

Eclectic selection

Georgie Gordon reads her way through a diverse collection of new releases.

HUSBAND REPLACEMENT THERAPY by Kathy Lette Only Kathy Lette can make terminal illness laugh out loud funny. Her latest book follows Ruby, who normally is a mild mannered and genial wife, sister and daughter, shock her family at her 50th birthday party with a brutally honest speech. After accusing her husband of having an affair, Ruby announces her terminal cancer diagnosis and her plans to spend her life savings on one last jaunt with her sisters. However, not all goes to plan.

(Vintage) LIKE FLIES FROM AFAR

by K. Ferrari This wickedly dark thriller about Argentina’s corrupt and violent underworld follows a single man over one very complicated day. Luis Machi has built his success on dirty deals, he has many enemies and his love life consists of a string of infidelities.

However, his biggest problem is the dead body in the boot of his car. He has no idea who the victim could be, or who might be trying to frame him for murder, nor does he have much time to find out. (Canongate)

HAMNET by Maggie O’Farrell Told in the author’s beautiful prose, Hamnet reveals the story of heartbreaking loss which inspired Shakespeare’s most celebrated play.

Set in Summer 1596 in Stratfordupon-Avon, this story starts with a young girl falling ill and her twin brother Hamnet setting off to search for help. Their mother, Agnes, is over a mile away, in the garden where she grows medicinal herbs. Their father is working in London. Neither parent knows that one of the children will not survive the week. (Tinder Press)

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AUGUST by Callan Wink This compelling coming of age novel follows twelve year old August, a boy forced beyond his years. When his parents’ marriage falls apart and he must leave the family farm to start over in a new town, he tries hard to be a normal teenager. But he struggles to form friendships and when a shocking act of violence pushes him off course once more, he flees to rural Montana. There he comes to learn that even the most broken of families have a bond. A poignant tale about how joy and trauma can irrevocably shape us.

(Granta) TINY PIECES OF US

by Nicky Pellegrino This heartbreaking tale is the story of Vivi Clark, a journalist whose life was saved by a heart transplant.

When Vivi meets the mother of her donor’s heart, Helen, she is asked for something unthinkable, to find all the other people who are living because of Helen’s son. One by one they track down these strangers, and slowly their lives begin to entwine, until Ruby finds herself one part of a whole new family. (Hachette) SEVEN LIES

by Elizabeth Kay This addictive thriller follows Jane and Marnie, two friends inseparable since childhood. Both fell in love and married, and both lost their husbands in grisly accidents way too soon.

At first they are united in grief but then it all begins to unravel, and as Jane narrates their shared history, she slowly unpicks the web of lies that binds their toxic relationship.

This novel of obsession, murder and betrayal is the ultimate page-tuner.

(Hachette)

MA R I TIME ME MOR IE S

What Floats Your Boat?

Intrepid sailor Fiona Harper reminisces about her introduction to a life at sea.

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I

vividly remember the first time I stepped aboard a yacht.

Clambering down a barnacle-encrusted ladder attached to the Broome (Western Australia) jetty at low tide, the deck of the cruising yacht was strewn with unfamiliar equipment. Young and naive, I’d finished high school a few months earlier, embarking on an adventure into the unknown.

After boarding a Greyhound bus from Perth with nothing more than a backpack and a head full of dreams, I’d been camping out in a tent in the dunes behind Broome’s famed Cable Beach.

A friend mentioned a couple looking for crew to help sail their yacht through the Kimberley, bound for Darwin.

Salivating at the prospect of an adventure into the unknown, I leapt at the chance. Little did I know then that this was to be a defining moment that would change the course of my life. It mattered not that I had no clue about sailing or navigation. Nor the skill required to safely negotiate an ocean where tidal streams whip the ocean into whirlpools and leave reefs exposed where once there was deep water.

Port and starboard were unfamiliar concepts. Nautical terminology even less so. Bow. Stern. Athwartships.

Midships. And what on earth was a windlass? Completely isolated from civilsation, days blended seamlessly into the next as we voyaged northwards, sun-kissed Kimberley landscapes to our right, night skies ablaze like fields of sparkling diamonds overhead, trails of shimmering phosphorous left in our wake.

For a handful of memorable days we rafted up to other yachts in Crocodile Creek, scrambling up sandstone cliffs to swim in freshwater rock pools beyond the reach of apex predators the waterway was named after. Twice a day our yachts floated upon a land-locked pond as the river receded over the horizon. For the first time I laid eyes upon famed Kimberley rock art galleries, posing unanswered questions of the people who roamed this land for eons.

PICTURE: Craig Osment

We’re all seafarers now Stepping ashore in Darwin six weeks later I remained mostly clueless about how to sail a yacht. I had however developed an unquenchable yearning to learn which morphed into a career sailing faraway seas. I did emerge from that sailing expedition with an intimate appreciation for freedom. The freedom that comes from living simply. The freedom of waking with the rising sun. The rhythm of tides. Twinkling stars upon

a painted ocean. The harmonic whooshing of a hull cutting through the sea, whales breaching, seabirds plunging into the sea, phosphorous-streaming dolphins darting like star kissed torpedos. I understood the magnificent freedom of raw wilderness.

Fast forward 30 years and the freedom of voyaging upon the ocean is within reach of us all. Holidays afloat have become attainable for all with approximately 30 million people taking a holiday on a cruise ship in 2019. The cruise industry generated $134 billion in 2017. That doesn’t account for the hundreds of thousands of yacht charterers, small ship voyagers, freighter travellers, canal boaters, superyacht passengers and private yacht owners taking to the water.

Whatever floats your boat, there is likely to be a holiday to accommodate your desires.

All have one thing in common. Freedom. Freedom from a world becoming ever smaller as we’re connected globally.

A world we have unlimited access to at the touch of our screens. A world where we are digitally watched, tracked and followed.

Afloat upon the ocean, cruising allows us the freedom to disconnect. To savour the beauty of nature. To taste the salty tendrils of the sea as it settles upon our lips. Sucking in lungs full of air untainted by civilisation rarely feels more freedominducing or invigorating than when upon the sea.

Freedom remains unimpeded At the time of writing our freedom has been curtailed with international and domestic borders temporarily closed to travellers by land, sea and air. As much as I long to feel the wind in my hair, to sail over the horizon again, we remain rooted to the shore with the privilege of travel tempered.

Sustained by memories of travels past and buoyed by future plans, I’m taking the opportunity to pause and reflect. But so too to savour the luxury of time to plan my next adventure afloat.

So, for now I’m entertaining myself with dreams of destinations I’ll to explore when our freedom resumes. Having sailed much of the Pacific Ocean, Australia and New Zealand, I’m yearning for adventures afloat further afield. The lure of the Eastern Mediterranean beckons. Lining the shorelines of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, I imagine long, leisurely sun-kissed days afloat in Croatia, Italy, Greece or Turkey.

But Australia too remains high on my travel wish list. Since that first foray into the Kimberley I’ve returned many times by road and sea. I long to return to her wild shores once more. Despite Broome’s expansion into a mini resort town, the ancient landscape remains little changed. The rock art has a few more seasons of weathering under its belt. Tides still retreat and return twice daily. Beaches are revealed then concealed. Freedom remains unimpeded. The lure of untamed seascapes are stronger than ever. •

islandliving | 19 pacific

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CO R A L R E S TOR ATION

s ’ a l a m Mala

Underwater Garden Fiji’s Malamala Beach Club has undertaken a coral restoration project to ensure its surrounding reef continues to thrive.

22 | Islandliving pacific

Yasawas were transported to Malamala for the first step in a long term coral restoration project. The conservation team involved six members of Reef Safari staff based at Barefoot Manta Resort, and once they arrived at Malamala the team started planting these branches onto the reef around the jetty.

Bring on the staghorns The type of coral that was planted (just over 250 branches) belonged to five species in the genus Acropora, often commonly referred to as staghorn coral.

This type of coral is the most sensitive to temperature stress, storm damage and predation from coralivorous

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M

alamala Beach Club is located on a private island which is a 25-minute boat trip from Fiji’s Port Denarau.

Having purchased the island three years ago, the owners found the state of the coral reef to be dire. It had suffered severe damage due to repetitive cyclones but mostly Cyclone Winston which decimated a large amount of Fiji. Malamala Beach Club with assistance from South Sea Cruises and the Barefoot Collection recently invested in a coral restoration project.

In December 2019 two large containers of coral branches harvested from the reefs around Drawaqa Island in the

Left: The perfectly placed Malamala Beach Club island. Above: Staghorn coral: Below left: Crown of thorns starfish; right coral branches.

predators. Thankfully these same species also take really well to transplantation It has taken the branches several months to cement themselves naturally to the bare rock of the reef where they have been planted, from now it will take them several years to grow into healthy colonies that can help the reef ecosystem by providing homes and shelter for fish and other reef species.

The day after planting, the same Reef Safari staff conducted a Crown of Thorns Starfish (COTS) survey. This species is unlike most other reef starfish, which are considered good for the ecosystem; instead it eats coral and leaves behind a dead skeleton that provides little benefit for anything else.

On the survey, the team removed 16 starfish. The future of this project will be to monitor the planted branches and potentially transport more branches down from Drawaqa again, as well as constantly checking for COTS outbreaks.

The beach club also has a number of island-based initiatives to reduce their environmental impact such as a glass crushing machine, (they crushed 20,000 bottles in four months).

This ‘sand’ is then used to create concrete for renovations.

In addition the water from the natural spring on the island is tfiltered so guests don’t have to rely on plastic water bottles.

Visitors can book and purchase a day pass at: https:// malamalabeachclub.com •

islandliving | 23 pacific

R E S OR T R E POR T

Tamanu, Efate Vanuatu

A Local Institution

Left: Tamanu’s stylish beachside dining pavilion or chapel venue for weddings. Top: The guest pool area; bottom: fluffy and fabulous souffle.

T

o say that Tamanu on the Beach is a Vanuatu institution is almost an understatement. It is famous/ notorious among locals and regular visitors alike for its long lunches, unmatched hospitality, its location and its accommodation. And now with the addition of a large pool area, a spa, ocean-front villas with private plunge pools … and the on-site Kokonas Kids Klub it’s become even more special as the island’s only five-star resort open to families which ensures the kids are entertained while mum and dad relax poolside, or indulge in a treatment at the Tamanu Day Spa. The boutique resort consists of 15 individual luxury villas, each with gorgeous views, tropical surrounds and white sand beaches. All are within easy reach of the renowned restaurant pavilion which continues to maintain its tradition of serving local favourites along with a daily blackboard menu featuring everything that’s fresh and fabulous.

In my case I have to declare a personal interest in all things Tamanu as it was the reason for us buying land and building a house just along the beach. It has become a central part of our Vanuatu life and the cornerstone of our dining experience

24 | Islandliving pacific

for many years now. The love affair began in the mid nineties and in spite of a brief lapse under a previous management the place has retained its original simple tropical appeal while building new attractions and additions in a totally sympathetic manner, the tone has been retained and improved upon with contemporary additions to the offering.

The arrival at the porte cochère and then the ‘reveal’ as you walk towards the restaurant remains as stunning today as it did 15 years ago. The dazzling whiteness of the beach and the cerulean blue of the ocean never fails to live up to that overused word ‘awesome’.

The good news is that if you book now, directly with the resort (tamanuonthebeach.com) and mention Pacific Island Living you receive your choice of either a complimentary 60-minute couple’s aromatherapy massage, or daily cocktail for two. With delicious choices like their Bombay Brûlée Gin and Tonic. Get online or on the phone.

PS. Don’t forget that this has been the perfect venue for many happy marriages, the big chapel/pavilion on the beach is perfect for memorable weddings. - Craig Osment.•

tu a u n a V a n n a ,T ss a r G e it h W

Style and Adventure

Top: Take a dive tour with White Grass. Bottom: Eat the locally caught lobsters after a foodie tour. Above: The pool area, perfect for relaxing.

W

hite Grass Resort and Spa in Tanna has had a full makeover and we love it, on a recent stay it’s plain to see the attention that has gone in to this gorgeous resort on an island that holds so much energy. The restaurant has fantastic views to ensure you get the maximum from your stay, enjoy long dinners and soak up the famous White Grass sunsets.

The resort itself now boasts three- and four- star twobedroom family villas, with designer furnishings, the bures have been newly painted and renovated. The fully equipped resort kitchen has been built to international standards serving up fresh organic produce, line-caught fish and Vanuatu’s famous organic beef.

White Grass has your days sorted when it comes to having a bit of an adventure with activities including snorkelling and scuba diving, on their own spectacular reef and day trips to the brilliant Blue Cave. Step outside your room to the adjacent blue holes with abundant sea life and untouched coral, swimming with turtles in their natural habitat. The spectacular Louniel waterfall is a must-do and to finish off there is the five-kilometre black sand surf beach where you can catch

some waves. There is so much more to Tanna than expected and it absolutely has to be explored. White Grass has you completely covered and can fill your days with great food and adventure.

Some of the ‘on the water activities’ are: Daily guided snorkel tour to the turtle reef; more snorkelling in the blue holes, one and two; a boat tour to the amazing Blue Cave at Lemnap; dive with Volcano Island Divers at 12+ different shore or boat dives; use the complimentary kayaks and explore the untouched rugged coastline; go on a game fishing trip Tanna style; walk the exposed ancient reef at low tide or take the Louniel Surf Beach and Waterfall Safari.

In addition the resort has recently curated in collaboration with its local producers a ‘Tastes of Tanna’ foodie tour. This has been designed to provide guests with a first hand insight into the land and people behind some of the most incredible organic and sustainable food and produce - all of which are featured daily on the resort menu. Guests depart the resort in the morning with head chef Charlie for a day’s shopping with a demonstration dinner later that night. •

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D E S T IN ATION G UIDE

Your Portal To The Pacific PICTURE: Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef, Craig Osment

From the Marshalls to the Mamanucas, to Santo sunsets, all the stuff you need to know across the region.

islandliving | 27 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U

Keeping it

Beautiful Vanuatu has not had any confirmed cases of Covid-19 and the tourism industry has promised to keep it beautiful as they wait for borders to re-open and once again show why Vanuatu has twice been voted the happiest country on the planet.

T

he Vanuatu Tourism Office (VTO) launched a global campaign in response to the international travel restrictions put in place since the COVID-19 outbreak, called ‘We’ll Keep it Beautiful for You’ in early April.

Despite Vanuatu having no recorded cases of COVID-19 to date, strict restrictions currently prevent international travellers from entering the country. The VTO’s campaign promised potential visitors overseas the Ni-Vanuatu people will keep Vanuatu beautiful for them until the time when the restrictions are lifted and tourists can return.

The VTO’s chief executive officer Adela Issachar told ABC Radio in late May that she was hopeful and the industry was planning on Vanuatu’s borders to re-open in September this year.

2019 was a very successful year for tourist visitation to Vanuatu, with a 4.3% increase in total air arrivals. Visitation from Australia, Vanuatu’s largest tourist market, was up by 23.4% year-on-year in December 2019.

“The VTO hopes the new campaign will help sustain this momentum once the current situation passes, by keeping Vanuatu’s warm spirit alive and ensuring the destination is

front-of-mind when consumers are able to travel again,” the office said in a statement.

As part of the campaign, the VTO will share a range of #VanuatuMoments featuring locals helping to keep Vanuatu beautiful, on its Facebook and Instagram channels. A series of social tiles have also been created in English and French for travel agents and the travel industry based in Vanuatu to share on their own social channels, with the campaign message and promise “we’ll keep it beautiful for you.” This campaign also marks the start of VTO’s marketing response and recovery plan for the COVID-19 pandemic.

Ni-Vanuatu’s fun-loving nature and cheerfulness has also been injected into the campaign creatives to help bring some happiness into people’s lives during this uncertain time.

The campaign has proved popular with consumers in Vanuatu’s source markets – 850,000 people have seen it so far, and engagement with the campaign is up by one-third, indicating a significant number of people are thinking about a holiday in Vanuatu once the COVID-19 lockdowns end.

Once this storm has passed, the VTO invites tourists to once again “Answer the Call” of Vanuatu.•

A sustainable eco-experience for the whole family, set in a stunning tropical paradise

Join us for the Eden Experience, Port Vila | Contact +678 7710765

28 | Islandliving pacific

islandliving | 29 pacific

D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U

Made In Vanuatu Elaine and Tony Wilson visit Organic Paradise in Port Vila to taste test some of the country’s finest locally grown produce.

I

t used to be that the only things notably Vanuatu-made were Tanna coffee and kava.

But that changed gradually at first, from about 10 years ago and then it escalated dramatically in the past five years.

A classic example of this is the Organic Paradise store at Chantilly’s on the Bay complex in Port Vila, which sells only products made in Vanuatu.

Organic Paradise first opened its doors in 2014 in Wharf Road with a fairly modest collection of ‘Made in Vanuatu’ items.

Today it offers more than 500 products. A truly staggering result for this tiny republic.

Proprietor Christophe Frocrain said the growth has been amazing and the further potential is quite exciting.

“We are currently buying from 75 local suppliers and we are working with products from nine Vanuatu islands,” he said.

Organic Paradise’s range of products includes spices and pepper, honey, coffee, kava, nuts, health products, oils, chocolates, vanilla, organic fruit and vegetables, organic fruit juices, dairy products, soap and beauty products, handicrafts and art.

“We have 15 exclusive products of our own and we are exporting to bio/organic stores, restaurant chefs and resellers in New Caledonia and France, and we even have a three Michelin star chef in France who buys some of our products, like the pepper,” said Christophe.

He said 60 per cent of the clients at the shop are local and 40 per cent are tourists.

“We are now selling seeds to farmers and are starting to sell a cross section of organic fruit and vegetables in the store and that will grow as more crops become available.

“We have free range eggs, lovely local quail and I have found a good chicken supplier, and we can sell our products cheaper than the supermarkets.

“I think we have helped a bit in the growth of local products because we have given an outlet for people to sell their products and I think people have always wanted to do it, they just did not have anywhere to sell from.

“Items like the vanilla, pepper, turmeric and other spices, plus the chocolates from the two local producers, are all truly world class.

30 | Islandliving pacific

“The growers are not using fertilisers or any chemicals and the quality and variety just continues to increase so there is no negative side to this at all and I’m very optimistic for the future.’’

Local food pioneer Votausi Mackenzie-Reur agreed wholeheartedly with Christophe’s enthusiasm and passion.

She started Lapita Foods in 1999, specialising in Vanuatu local foods with coconut cookies and banana chips.

Today she has more than 30 products and even has her own farm in Santo.

“We take a product like nangai nuts and add different flavours to it, so we have roasted and sugar coated – you have to keep the customer excited,” she said.

Votausi said product development and marketing are now important components of her business.

“We were making manioc flour and it would just sit there, and now we call it gluten free flour and it sells. The market in Vanuatu has become more sophisticated and people are more receptive to healthy foods like we produce,” she said.

She said Lapita is rolling out new products every year as the demand is there.

Restaurants around Vanuatu are also using more and more local ingredients in their dishes, with great effect.

At The Blue Marlin Club, widely regarded as the number one restaurant in Vanuatu, chef/manager Matt Lambert has Erakor baby clams as an entrée, with the clams straight out of the nearby lagoon.

But by far the most unusual Vanuatu dish is flying fox or fruit bat, served at L’Houstalet restaurant in Port Vila.

Head chef/owner Clement Martinez has been cooking Civet de Roussette for 48 years which is flying fox marinated in red wine, garlic and herbs and served with rice.

He also has another house specialty of Natou aux champignons et a la crème or wild pigeon in a mushroom and cream sauce.

Clement said he sells about 80 fruit bat dishes per month, mostly to New Caledonia tourists.

“It is the same recipe from 48 years ago and the boys bringing in the bats and pigeons are the grandsons of the lads who first brought them to me,” he said.•.

ESCAPE WITH US! Tamanu on the Beach features fifteen stunning private villas on a beautiful white sand beach.

Reservations | Phone 27279 | Email tr@tamanuonthebeach.com

islandliving | 31 pacific

I S L A ND OPE N IN G

n i e v i t c a Getting

Laid Back Santo

Former Santo resident Tiffany Carroll recommends some favourite places to stay and activities to raise your adreniline on this island gem

M

ore and more of us have turned to armchair travel during the Coronavirus pandemic. It’s a great escape from the mundane of lockdown and talk of a Trans-Tasman / Pacific Bubble has resulted in higher interest in holidays to one of the world’s most beautiful areas – the islands of the South Pacific.

Fiji recently declared themselves Coronavirus-free after containing and limiting their confirmed cases to just 19. At present, their borders are planning to open with their own “Bula Bubble”.

Samoa and Solomon Islands have not had any confirmed cases with both countries ensuring the protection of their citizens with border restrictions in place.

Vanuatu is doing it tougher than most at the moment. The borders are closed, athough the head of the Vanuatu Tourism Office has said they hope to re-open in September and whilst they remain Covid-19 free with no suspected or confirmed cases, some of the Vanuatu islands were also recently been hit by the category five cyclone Harold.

The main tourist area of Port Vila and its neighbouring southern islands were fortunately untouched by the cyclone.

The central islands were devastated and Vanuatu’s second most populous island Santo suffered terrible damage to local housing, infrastructure and some resorts.

As a former resident of that island, one thing I know for sure about Vanuatu and its people is they are resilient and

over

5

Kumul

32 | Islandliving pacific

Left: One of Ratua Private Island’s distinctive Javanese villas; diving the SS Oresident Coolidge; quaint tree house for the adventurous.

the community is strong. Before the Coronavirus pandemic is over, you can be assured Santo will be up and running again, ready to welcome visitors to this truly magical island.

Santo is a sleepy hollow, a bucolic sort of place. The main township of Luganville is a haphazard sort of place with a wide, long main street. Shops blatantly turn their backs on the view of the Segond Channel and neighbouring islands.

Some Ni-Vanuatu go about their business in grass skirts with Diana, Princess of Wales t-shirts. Others are more Rastafarian. Many locals look like they’d be perfectly well

at home in outback Australia, complete with Moleskins and Akubra hats. It certainly has an ‘anything goes’, casual , frontier town feel to it. It’s probably why most people love Santo.

How to get to Santo The island of Espiritu Santo is a 45-minute flight north of the capital Port Vila. Air Vanuatu flies twice daily from Vila to Santo on their ATR72 aircraft, a very comfortable twin-engine plane complete with cabin crew. They do have island hopper flights

Red Corner, Luganville Ph (+678) 36 911 Stay@TheBeachfrontResort.com TheBeachfrontResort.com

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islandliving | 33 pacific

via smaller islands such as Malekula for the more adventurous traveller on the workhorse of smaller commercial aircraft, the Twin Otter. Flight prices are in the vicinity of $350 return but Air Vanuatu international passengers are eligible for a discount on these prices so check their website www.airvanuatu.com for details.

Where to stay in Santo There are a range of small, boutique properties on the island of Santo, ranging from very basic bungalow style accommodation, even treehouses, to motels in the main town of Luganville and island luxury beachfront resorts away from town and on neighbouring islands of Bokissa, Aore and Ratua.

On the main island of Santo, I have stayed at Coral Quays Fish and Dive Resort www.coralquays.com where my daughter learnt to SCUBA dive and I got to laze by the pool set amongst the most stunning tropical gardens.

Coral Quays is located in the San Michel area of Santo, about 11km from Santo’s international airport and about a seven-minute drive from Luganville’s main shopping area.

Coral Quays’ rooms range from shared fan-cooled bungalows to private air-conditioned bungalows. The restaurant is fantastic, serving well priced home-cooked food with regular themed buffet nights during the week Coral Quays was hit hard by cyclone Harold and the owners’ first priority was to assist their staff with their own home rebuilds. This kind of altruism is common in Vanuatu,

34 | Islandliving pacific

You have a better chance of having Champagne Beach entirely to yourself than

I’ve never known another country with such a strong sense of community. Coral Quays is busy rebuilding and cleaning up, replanting their beautiful tropical gardens and getting ready to welcome guests again.

Another good option is Beachfront Resort in Santo. This long-established resort is where the locals hangout to take in the sunset, collect their take-away pizza and moor their tinnies. It offers private and shared accommodation in large rooms, a great sized swimming pool and deck, friendly local service and great information on local tours on Santo and the neighbouring islands.

to expert specialist courses including Nitrox.

Since that time, more and more tour and adventure options have opened up in Santo. Some of my favourites include visiting Santo’s amazing Blue Holes – freshwater swimming spots scattered along the east coast of Santo that are truly stunning. Dive into crystal clear, iridescent blue water that rivals any location in the world. Most are surrounded by lush jungle and slightly off the beaten track, the closest to Santo is a mere 15-minute drive, however.

Local tour operators can arrange for day trips to visit one or a few. I recommend Santo Heritage Tours and Wrecks to Rainforest for information.

at any of the world’s other most beautiful beaches.

What to do in Santo When I first visited Santo the only other tourists on the island were avid SCUBA divers, there to experience the world’s largest, most accessible shipwreck, the SS President Coolidge. This magnificent former first class cruiser-turnedtroop carrier in World War Two hit friendly mines and sunk just off shore over 70 years ago.

She has been a Mecca for divers from all around the world, offering a plethora of dive options from 18 to 60 metres. Coral Quays offers a range of dive courses from complete beginner

Champagne Beach Champagne Beach has long been touted as one of the world’s most beautiful and it really is. What sets it apart from Whitehaven in Australia, Boracay in the Philippines or any of those in the 10 top list is the lack of crowds. You have a better chance of having Champagne Beach entirely to yourself than at any of the world’s other most beautiful beaches.

The sand is powder-soft, pure white and the water a mix of aquamarine hues. Soft gentle waves ripple at the shoreline of this perfect half moon bay. Local cattle come down to drink from the freshwater inlets and you look around mesmerised by the overwhelming beauty of the location. It is truly one of life’s most memorable experiences to visit such a special, untouched place of beauty. •

ON SALE NOW The Essential Vanuatu Second Edition is the ultimate souvenir of your Vanuatu visit or the perfect gift for friends who haven’t experienced paradise. Pick up your copy throughout Vanuatu for RRP VT3900 or order directly from www.theessentialvanuatu.com islandliving | 35 pacific

THE TASTE OF SAMOA

SINCE 1978

S A MO AN H ISTORY

s n o i t c a r t Star at

Palauli Heritage Trails

Li Ah-Hi takes a trip to the deep jungle to explore Samoa’s ancient and mysterious star mounds which are unique to this region and date back centuries.

A

n ancient Samoan civilisation has been uncovered in the village of Vaitoamuli, in the district of Palauili, Savai’i – which is generating more questions than answers as I found out on a tour of the Palauli heritage trails.

The recent discovery of a star mound in Palauli dating back three centuries and measuring over 20 metres wide has been the main focus of a three-year study by a team of archaeologists and anthropologists at the Centre for Samoan Studies (CSS), National University of Samoa (NUS).

I had heard about these mysterious star mounds around Savai’i but because they are mostly located in hard to get to areas in the dense jungle, one got the impression that you’d go exploring at your own risk.

But luckily for the explorer in us all, these are the first heritage sites of their kind to be officially protected under a new agreement between the villages of the Palauli district in partnership with NUS. Which means, not only are they excavated and preserved but they are now open for cultural tourism since February of this year after a blessing from the village chiefs.

To the untrained eye, star mounds look like enormous

38 | Islandliving pacific

blobs from a drone’s-eye view but under the guidance of our tour guides, made up of a team of archaeologists and locally trained youth, I was taken on a journey that had me captivated from the beginning to the end.

According to our tour guide, the first excavations were done in the Samoas during the 1960s, revealing the islands threemillennium long pre-history beginning with the discovery of early eastern Lapita pottery.

So since then, it has been known that the islands are dotted with oddly shaped star mounds that have baffled archaeologists from all over the world.

But it wasn’t until the 3D Lidar scanning of Savai’i in more recent times, that the extent of the earth works has been revealed. Under the Lidar, 80 star mounds were detected around Samoa.

Star mounds (fetu ma’a) are a singularly Samoan feature and have been discovered all over Samoa ranging in various sizes and are located in mostly hard to get to dense forest areas.

American, Greg Jackmond is the lead archaeologist in the CSS team and has been carrying out archaeological field work in Samoa since the 1970s.

Left: Traditional meet and greet with the Matai (chiefs). Above: Palauli star mound. Below: Entrance to the heritage trails.

islandliving | 39 pacific

Palauli trails tour group takes a break for a photo opportunity.

“This is going to open up a whole new area or way of how Samoans and foreigners look at ‘Fa’a Samoa” the Samoan way of life, and what it was about.”

Despite the additional discoveries of ‘vaeluaga pa ma’a’ (wall and walk ways) that go for kilometres into the bush and ‘auala savali’ (walk ways), prehistoric ‘tulaga fale’ (house platforms) – Greg and his team still don’t know what the star mound’s true purpose was.

Early accounts tell of Samoan chiefs who participated in the sport of pigeon catching and used the star mounds as a platform for netting pigeons, however Greg says there is a slight catch in that theory, “Pidgeon snaring is also common in Tonga … but Tonga didn’t have star mounds,” he says.

“Star mounds are very different in the Pacific and these ones are only found in Samoa.”

Anthropologist and PHD student whose thesis is based on the Palauli trails , Dionne Fonoti, adds another dimension to

40 | Islandliving pacific

the deepening mystery which begs the question – were they for snaring birds or gods?

“Most of the mounds are located in very rough terrain and some of the older and bigger structures would have taken years to construct under the leadership of someone very powerful,” she said “So their purpose would have been of the most significant importance to the builders, like platforms for rituals and not likely for something as light-hearted as pigeon snaring.”

One thing is for sure, the Palauli Trails will leave you wanting to know more after spending time re-imagining what these ancient structures were used for and who were the people that built them.

“We have had a lot of interesting conversations about all the mysteries that we have encountered over here,” Dionne said.

“While we are amazed that we have discovered these things and we can see them now – it still doesn’t answer a lot of questions, in fact it just generates more questions.” •

D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

Cruise Discovery le y t S s ’ n o Solom

As Kylie Travers cruised the seas around Solomon islands she was greeted by playful dolphins, a gliding whale and fabulous diving experiences.

S

eeking adventure and relaxation in a tropical paradise, I knew this trip would be one to remember. As the sun sunk beneath the waves on the first night, the rest of the world, along with all my worries and cares melted away.

For the next seven days, I was free to explore the crystal clear waters, dive or snorkel colourful reefs, meet gorgeous people and be welcomed at each island we stopped at. Welcome to Solomon Islands.

Laying on a hammock on the top deck, watching the islands smoothly pass by as we cruised to our first stop, I can’t help but relax. The friendly staff on Solomon Island Discovery Cruises were taking care of my every need from the moment I arrived. With an outstanding menu carefully prepared by chefs who are passionate about their craft, combining local produce and recipes with international cuisine, every meal was an experience.

As we cruised along from island to island, dolphins swam over, playfully jumping in and out of the water around our boat.

Followed by a whale, gliding past. We could not believe our

42 | Islandliving pacific

luck to see one so close and immediately the captain stopped cruising so we could watch it without disturbing it as it swam out further. With such amazing marine life being so close, I couldn’t wait to get in the water and explore more under the ocean for myself.

Diving had never been easier. All my gear was ready to go, the staff, who was fast becoming friends, helped with everything then we were off. Sinking down into the ocean, colourful reefs, schools of fish, stingrays, manta rays and more came out to say hello and my guide pointed each one out beautifully so I didn’t miss a thing.

After a perfect dive, we were whisked away for a BBQ on a private island. Whilst waiting for it to cook, we swam, snorkelled and used stand up paddleboards to explore the ocean around it. Asking my snorkel guide, Pedrose, where his favourite spot was, he took me around the corner where the rocks and reefs parted a little. As we floated along, he suddenly pointed and there, in the crack of a rock was an octopus feeding, it moved so gracefully and was amazing to

PICTURES: Gerald Rambert .

With such amazing marine life being so close, I couldn’t wait to get in the water and explore more under the ocean for myself.

Despite the wreck not being a natural part of the island, the villagers have installed ziplines between it and the trees for the kids.

watch.

Later, being heavily interested in WWII, I was keen to dive wrecks and climb to the top of Hill 281 in Tulagi to see what our soldiers saw, view relics and walk through foxholes and Japanese U caves used in the war. With so much WWII history throughout Solomon Islands, you never know what you will discover as you are taken around each island. After our walk up Hill 281, the cool drinks at Raiders Hotel and Bar were a delight.

At Roderick Bay, the wreck of the MS World Explorer is slowly being taken back over by nature. Despite the wreck not being a natural part of the island, the villagers have created a world of wonder with ziplines between it and the trees for kids to play on. Ropes hang off the trees, with kids swinging out over the impossibly clear water as we approach. Being warmly greeted with cool coconut drinks, we were treated to singing, dancing and music then a walk through the lush greenery to the other side of the island.

Coming from a cool climate, I was sweltering but loving every

step of the way. As we started the return journey, Captain Ezi called to me. While I was touring the village, he had woven a fan from a palm leaf for me to use to cool myself walking back through the forest.

With diving, stand up paddle boarding, snorkelling, WWII history, village visits, water skiing and surfing, it was an outstanding trip, ending with a bonfire on a private island.

Sipping champagne with my friends in the gentle waves as the sun set and the bonfire started was the perfect way to end the trip.

In the morning, as we boarded the tender to go back home and waved farewell to our new friends, I knew I would return again and again.

Kylie Travers is an avid traveller, diver and mother of two. You can find her at www.kylietravers.com.au • MORE INFORMATION Solomon Islands Discovery Cruise: sidcruises.com.au Solomon Islands Tourism: visitsolomons.com.sb

islandliving | 43 pacific

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I S L A ND E SCAPE

c i o r e H The

Wildcats of Tulagi Is this sunken aircraft the most significant archaeological find of recent times? By Roderick Eime

T

he sea is more like soup in this part of the bay near Gavutu. It’s warm and full of ingredients. The runoff from the surrounding islands keeps the water murky with sediment, like you’re diving in the dark shadow of something foreboding.

But it’s also full of lots more very interesting things.

In May 1942, the Japanese landed on nearby Tulagi after a tiny force of British colonial and Australian troops had evacuated just hours before. About 400 mainly naval (IJN) troops then set up a small command post and seaplane base as part of Operation Mo – the official Japanese military plan to invade and occupy territory around Australia and the South Pacific.

Allied forces began their attacks against the occupying Japanese even as they were unloading, heralding the start of the vicious Guadalcanal campaign that would last until February 1943.

Most of the wrecks near Gavutu, just over two kilometres to the east of Tulagi, are aircraft, the most prominent of these being six massive Japanese ‘Mavis’ 4-engine flying boats sunk at their moorings that August when the US Marines made their big comeback.

In 2015 I returned to Tulagi to investigate the discovery of a USMC F4 Wildcat wreck.

I meet with Bob Norton, a Kiwi ex-serviceman who was then the new proprietor of the Raiders Hotel in Tulagi, a quaint and peaceful waterfront hotel in the little former British pre-war colonial capital. The ideally located pub is sheltered from the nasty

46 | Islandliving pacific

weather out in the sound, but still has a tranquil view across the bay to little Mokambo Island to the NE and beyond.

Attached to the Raiders Hotel, named after the force of US Marines who liberated the island in a fierce battle in August 1942, is his dive shop, with tender tied directly to the old wharf.

We dived the well-known wrecks of the large ‘Mavis’ flying boats. These are thoroughly documented and frequently dived and the huge machines make for a satisfying exploration in just 25 metres of water.

But this was just a warm up for the best bit. Bob couldn’t wait to show me a wreck of a US Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat fighter plane only then recently discovered.

From pictures and model kits I recall as a kid, the stubby little aircraft was not a particularly pretty thing. The flat radial engine, stubby square wings and bulbous fuselage were in stark contrast to the attractive lines of other contemporary planes like the British Spitfire or its main adversary, the Zero. The pilot sat high up like he was riding a fat camel.

However, what was particularly noteworthy of this find, since dubbed ‘The Gavutu Wildcat’ by Solomons-born WWII historian and shipwreck researcher, Ewan Stevenson, is that it is believed to be the aircraft of 1st Lt James E. Swett, one of the US Marine Corps most decorated pilots.

Stevenson was aboard the HMNZS Resolution under command of Lt. Cdr. Matt Wray when the sonar scan revealed the aircraft some seven years ago, told me via email that while the

PICTURES: Raiders Hotel and Dive, Solomon Islands.

Solomons spectacular wreck dive reveal WWII USMC F4 Wildcat (above left); and Raiders Hotel in Tulagi with attached dive shop.

wreck is still yet to be absolutely verified, he is confident his theory will be borne out.

The circumstances of the ditching are remarkable in themselves. On 7 April 1943, a massive Japanese air raid took place on US shipping on recaptured Guadalcanal and Tulagi.

This was 22-year-old Swett’s first day of service and during the torrid 15-minute air battle, Swett shot down seven attacking ‘Val’ dive bombers making him an instant ‘ace’ and Medal of Honor recipient on day one.

A total of 28 aircraft were lost that day: 21 Japanese and seven Allied, yet very few wrecks have been located, most likely because they crashed out of control in deep water, unlike the wounded Swett who was able to ditch and extricate himself after some frantic effort.

As we descend down a coral encrusted mooring line Bob has set up, the shape of the little plane slowly reveals itself through the gloom. This is no pile sunken scrap metal, this is history and possibly one of the most famous surviving US aircraft in the Pacific Theatre.

Sitting neatly upright in 40 metres of water, it’s clear that it has not received a lot of attention. A couple of missing instruments makes me wonder whether we were among the first to explore the wreck, although there are no telltale rough efforts of brutal scavengers who often tear open the wings to get at the big 50-caliber machine guns and ammo.

And there are all the hallmarks of Swett’s 15 minutes of terror.

The nose and engine are torn off from the water impact and the canopy is gone. Some gaping holes on the upper wing surface could be the accidental AA hits Swett received from his comrades on the ground.

Swett recalls this exploit in a documentary made shortly before his death at age 88 in 2009. “.. after the sixth one went down, I got overconfident and on the next one the rear gunner stuck his gun practically in my face and let me have it!”

The frantic Japanese rear gunner, staring death in the face,

sent a burst of fire into the Wildcat’s cockpit, shattering the canopy and sending sharp fragments everywhere. Swett had also taken hits from his own anti-aircraft (AA) gunners on the ground, damaging a wing, such was the intensity of the battle. “... when he put a bullet in my oil cooler, I knew it was time to get out of there. I thought I could get back to base but the engine seized, so I headed for the water.”

His ammunition expended and his plane shot up, Swett was forced to ditch and, stunned from the violent impact, found himself trapped in the cockpit for a few harrowing minutes as the plane quickly sank. Finally afloat, he was rescued, recuperated and returned to service, surviving the war with 16 kills and passing away at the ripe old age of 88 in 2009.

After a few minutes at this depth I started to feel the first pangs of nitrogen narcosis, a common symptom for divers descending past 25 metres, so I was doubly careful to watch my step and pay attention. For a moment there, I was transfixed by a pair of massive trevally lurking beneath the port wing and was still mildly euphoric when we surface 20 minutes later, but I put this down to the excitement of the exploration, rather than any delayed effect of the gases.

The aircraft is now a site of considerable value and importance and Bob is careful not to disclose the precise location for fear of disrespectful divers helping themselves to souvenirs.

As a parting word of advice, Stevenson writes “This site requires utmost respect from divers to preserve the archaeological integrity. Please do not touch or tamper with this site.

In particular, please do not remove any ammunition from the ammo bays, as this information is critically required for archaeological confirmation of the site.”

Ewan Stevenson and his colleagues are adding to their tally of aircraft and shipwrecks all the time and the expedition of November 2014 was a particularly lucrative effort with numerous new finds added to the database. Few, however, would have the significance of this cute little sunken warbird.

Lest We Forget. •

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islandliving | 47 pacific

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D E ST INAT IO N K IRIBAT I

From the air, Kiribati is simply stunning.

On the ground, friendly people, a strong culture and pristine water awaits you.

T

he island nation of Kiribati, comprising 33 atolls straddles the equator stretching 3235 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean. With traditions and culture thriving and visitors regarded as a curiosity, it is the Pacific of yesteryear.

South Tarawa is the urban hub of the nation with a large concentration of the population crammed into rows of houses squeezed together.

Land is scarce here, the lagoon suffering under the weight of people, but this is where government and commercial activity is focused, where the hustle and bustle of Kiribati prevails.

Venture away from south Tarawa and you escape this commotion, finding the unspoilt tranquillity of north Tarawa. To visit only south Tarawa is to miss the gentler side of Kiribati, the Kiribati where time flows with the moon and tides.

Located on Abatao in north Tarawa, our family homestay accommodation is delightful. The road halts abruptly at a passageway between the ocean and lagoon. A prompting whistle and a motorised canoe emerges from across the water to ferry us to the other side.

During the new moon, the crossing is magical as phosphorescence lights a trail behind us, swirling round our feet in the water; a step in the wet sand stirs a shower of phosphorescent dust.

Our guesthouse looks over the lagoon. A raised floor, roof of pandanus leaves and a mattress. Woven palm shutters keep out the rain, the lagoon breeze provides natural air conditioning! Home for a while. Privacy is pretty much nonexistent but it all adds to the Kiribati charm.

It is quite normal to wake up, see several pairs of eyes

50 | Islandliving pacific

staring back from beyond our feet, hear a shy ‘Mauri’ and then children running away giggling! The bathroom is shared and the toilet has built-in entertainment as hermit crabs scurry around our feet.

Meals are local food: pancakes made with ‘toddy’ served with coconut syrup, fish, rice, breadfruit, pandanus and coconut. Sunset over the lagoon is spectacular with a ball of fire resting on the horizon, the sky blazing with shades of orange, red, pink, purple.

Serenity – apart from the lapping of the water on the lagoon edge and the distant crashing of waves on the ocean side. A receding evening tide brings fishermen into the lagoon, wading the shallows with a lamp, trailing a fishing net between them or slowly drifting in a canoe to catch the next meal. In the dark of the night, tiny lights shine out in the middle of the lagoon.

Beyond the homestay, the village and North Tarawa stretch out. Traditional houses cluster together, a school, a church and a small shop, little else.

Children line the street as we pass, quietly whispering or boldly shouting ‘I-Matang’ (foreigner) before running away.

Others crowd round in friendly curiosity, following until we reach the edge of the village or they lose interest.

Beyond the village houses are sparsely spread along the track. I-Kiribati sit talking or carrying out daily chores; men climb trees for toddy; women sit weaving mats; children play, patiently practising skills passed down to them. There is no need here for TV or fancy toys – the children seem content with what their imagination and natural environment provide.

Calm and tranquillity reign. •

by Vanessa Nuttall

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D E ST INAT IO N MARS H A L L I S L A NDS

The Prince Eugen’s watery grave in the Marshall Islands’ crystal clear water during an oil recovery operation.

T

he Marshall Islands is unique among island nations being made up of 29 coral atolls and five single islands spread out over an exclusive economic zone of nearly 1 million square miles (one of the largest in the Pacific). The Marshall Islands is one of only four atoll countries in the world and is also one of the world’s youngest nations.

Approximately 2,000 years ago, these islands were first discovered by skilled ocean voyagers who searched the horizons for new land. By the time the first European explorers arrived, in the mid-1500s, almost all 29 atolls were colonised, and the people here had developed their own unique language and culture.

A young nation politically, the Marshall Islands gained its independence in 1986, after a long history of colonisation by Germany, Japan and the United States, beginning in the late part of the nineteenth century.

Marshall Islanders are known as one of the friendliest and most peaceful people on earth. Inherent to their culture are the important principles of caring for one another and kindness to others. These make the Marshall Islands one of the safest places to visit. While the local population is mostly indigenous, there are many mixed German, Japanese and American Marshallese.

With almost a million square miles of ocean, over 800 reef systems, and countless species of coral and marine life, the Marshall Islands is without question a scuba diver’s dream.

The 30-plus metre visibility and year-round 27 degree water temperature make diving here exceptionally pleasant.

One of the Marshall Islands’ key dive attractions is the abundance of WWII ship and plane wrecks. Atolls such as Bikini, Jaluit, Kwajalein, Mili and Wotje are home to dozens of famous wrecks that have just recently been explored by visiting divers. With only three scuba diving operations based on Majuro and Bikini atolls, the vast majority of the country is just waiting to be discovered.

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Name your own dive site

If you’re a diver who’s looking to escape the crowds and to tread new waters, this is the place to be. Indeed, there’s nothing more memorable than discovering a new dive site, and naming it yourself. And nothing beats the thrill of finding a new wreck. Without a doubt, your diving appetite will be quenched, or shall we say ‘drenched’ after a visit to the Marshall Islands.

If you yearn for exploration, discovery and learning about new cultures, you’ll find a visit to the Marshall Islands very rewarding. More specifically, a trip to one of the ‘outer atolls’ as they are called, will provide an unforgettable experience.

Here, you can find Marshall Islanders living, for the most part, in the same form and fashion as they have for hundreds of years.

The outer atolls are completely unspoilt

While Western products and technology have slowly made their way into the outer atolls, the island culture and traditional lifestyle still prevail. People here continue to rely on the sea and the land to provide for most of their needs. Men still sail their traditional canoes while women continue to weave crafts from native material. On atolls such as Mili, Jaluit, Maloelap and Wotje, you will find a multitude of WWII relics, including anti-aircraft guns, coastal defense guns, Japanese Zeros, bunkers and more.

On Majuro Atoll, the nation’s capital, you’ll find the major hotels and facilities. Here, there is an array of restaurants, bars and local craft shops. You will also find the Alele Museum, which houses pictures and artefacts from the nation’s past.

Majuro is home to nearly half of the entire Marshall Islands’ population, and it is, therefore, quite developed in comparison to most other atolls. •

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D IV E SIGH TS

Five Reasons To Dive The South Pacific Make sure next year is the year you dive the Pacific Islands and help save our oceans. By Deborah Disckson-Smith

54 | Islandliving pacific

PICTURE: Above, David Kirkland

T

he Pacific Islands is as beautiful under water as it is above. Beyond those palm-fringed white sandy beaches is some of the best diving in the world. From the soft coral wonders and shark dives of Fiji, to the WWII wrecks and untouched reefs of Vanuatu and Solomon Islands.

As the Pacific Islands tourism industry recovers from the devastating effect of Coronavirus travel restrictions, now more than ever is a good time to plan your next South Pacific dive holiday. Need another good reason? By supporting the dive industry, you are helping save our oceans.

Dive Tourism Operators help protect our oceans. A percentage of all dive tourism revenue goes towards looking after our precious marine environment – both directly, and indirectly. Directly, many operators manage marine conservation programs such as coral restoration, turtle sanctuaries and marine life monitoring programs.

Indirectly dive centres contribute through donations and fundraisers for organisations such as the Mamanuca Environmental Society.

Here are three more great reasons to plan that dive holiday now:

1. Munda, Solomon Islands At the eastern tip of the Coral Triangle, the most biodiverse marine habitat on Earth, lies Munda, in Solomon Islands.

Munda is one of the most affordable places to dive in the South Pacific, with packages under AU$2000 for diving and accommodation and a choice of over 50 dive sites to explore, including WWII wrecks, beautiful coral walls to drift along and mysterious caverns to explore. Nearby Gizo is a 15-minute flight away, with special offers in beautiful over-water bungalows at Fatboys Resort and Oravae Cottage.

2. Tanna, Santo and Vila, Vanuatu Less than three hours flight from Australia’s east coast, Vanuatu boasts some of the Pacific’s most famous WWII wrecks including the SS President Coolidge and Million Dollar Point on the island of Espiritu Santo, and incredibly varied

diving off the coast of the island nation’s Port Vila. Diving in Vila ranges from the staghorn fields and anemone gardens of Hideaway Island to stunning dives such as the Semele Federesen wreck and the Cathedral sea cavern. And let’s not forget the beautiful caves, swim-throughs and seriously untouched coral (and active volcano) on the island of Tanna.

3. Shark Fest in Beqa Lagoon, Fiji Fiji now has five shark feeding dives, four in Beqa Lagoon, with perhaps the most famous being The Cathedral, established by Beqa Lagoon Resort, which primarily attracts tiger sharks. It’s an adrenalin-pumped experience as these powerful creatures come in for a tuna-head snack. Other fantastic shark dives in Fiji include The Bistro, managed by Aquatrek, the original Beqa Lagoon Shark Dive, and The Awakening at Barefoot Kuata Resort in the Yasawa Islands, established by shark expert Dr Thomas Vignaud.

Time to book a dive holiday? Contact the team at Diveplanit Travel, your personal dive travel agency. Diveplanit.com •

islandliving | 55 pacific

L A UGH LIN E S

Funny Ha Ha And Funny Peculiar Tony Wilson takes a look at the idiosyncrasies and peccadillos of everyday life in Vanuatu

Y

ou could not write a new column of this ilk without starting with a classic and this gem will take a great deal of beating.

Clock watcher It was 1992 and the government had decided to introduce daylight saving as a tourism initiative. On October 26, the acting medical superintendent issued the following memo to all senior staff at the Vila Central Hospital on the subject of ‘time change’.

“We have been directed the new time change. Please note that really there should be no disruptions of time tables. EG: New time 8.30am is the same as old time 7.30am.

“So even if you do not change your watch and keep to the old time, you will still be following the new time, bearing in mine (sic) of course that you are one hour behind of new time.

“If the new times confuses our current time tables. Please leave them as they are and keep to the old time.’’

It should not be a great surprise that daylight saving did not have a great future in Vanuatu.

56 | Islandliving pacific

Drink up Another gem happened on New Year’s Eve about six years ago after the police had announced though the media that there would be a crackdown on drink driving on NYE. An Aussie lad driving out of the Anchor Inn car park had forgotten about the directive and had a can of Jim Beam and Coke between knees. Police stopped him and ordered him out of the vehicle, which he did – clutching his drink sheepishly.

“Now drink it,” commanded a police officer.

The Aussie complied and stood there with the empty can, wondering what was next. The police officer took the can, crushed it and flung it away.

“Now continue on your way and remember – no more drinking and driving,” the officer said. The stunned Aussie did as he was instructed.

Service interruption A recent visit by two friends to a restaurant in Vila was far from a roaring success as a dining experience. The men found themselves near the only other customers – a large table of 10 or so diners.

They ordered three courses each and two Woodstocks (a pre-mixed bourbon and Coke).

After about 10 minutes they summoned the ni Vanuatu waitress and asked where were the drinks.

“Oh, we haven’t got any Woodstocks,” she said.

“OK, two bourbon and Cokes please,” one of the men said.

Another 10 minutes passed and still sign of any drinks, so they called the waitress again.

“We are still waiting for the bourbons,” they said.

“The bourbon is out of stock,” she replied.

“Do you have any Tusker (beer)?”

“Yes.” And the pair were finally able to quench their thirst.

A few more beers and 90 minutes after ordering, the waitress was again summoned.

“Why after all this time, haven’t we even had our entrees yet?” they asked.

“Chef is busy,” was the terse response.

They then requested the manager’s presence and she explained that the chef only cooked for one table at a time and he was fully occupied with the large group of diners as they kept ordering more dishes.

The men then voted with their feet and left.

Taken literally An expat living in Port Vila returned home one afternoon and was stunned to find her house girl cleaning their fridge out on the front lawn.

“What are you doing with the fridge out here?” she said.

The house girl looked most indignant.

“Because you told me to clean the fridge inside and out,” she said.

Anyone who has stories and anecdotes like this that they are willing to share can email them to etwilson23@gmail.com •

islandliving | 57 pacific

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F ITN E S S

Time to

Reset Your Life Lauren Jagger of Fiji’s Bulaliicious Activewear comes up with some upbeat advice to avoid the perils of being restricted to your home.

W

hen it comes to working out we can all find a million excuses why we can’t commit to it one way or another. Whether it’s because it’s too hot, too cold, we are too busy, anything to put off being active. As human beings we naturally steer towards the easier option and before we know it weeks have gone by without exercising and all we have to show for it is a bag full of excuses. In times like these we need to tackle the situation head on with a plan whether this situation lasts a couple of weeks or months we need to be prepared so that when it passes and life returns to normal it hasn’t come at the cost of our health.

There are three main areas that we believe if adapted into our lives, will help us through this period, these being fitness, wellness and mindfulness. All three combined will ensure that we have some form of normality and that we have something to focus on – because now more than ever is the time to look after ourselves and our health.

We’ve put together a few tips and tricks that can help us all stay accountable and ensure this disruption to our usual routines doesn’t affect our well bring.

Fitness If going to the gym has never been your thing then this is your time to shine. There are now hundreds of free workouts online that you can do in the comfort of your own home – in fact the Bulalicious youtube channel shows you just how to do that without any equipment. This is the time to master a new fitness hobby such as pilates or yoga or even challenge yourself to HIIT workouts – right now there is literally nothing stopping you.

If you aren’t used to regular exercise and now want to get active if still locked down then your body may experience DOMS – delayed onset muscle soreness. Listen to your body and go carefully. Likewise if you are now fitting in 5-7 workouts a week be sure to stretch out those muscles and give yourself a day off. Whilst exercising at home we can often forget simple safety precautions such as staying hydrated, wearing appropriate footwear and making sure the area in which we

60 | Islandliving pacific

are working out on doesn’t possess any hazards – so ensure you are prepared.

Don’t feel under pressure to rush out and buy all the latest equipment, your own body weight proves just as useful as gym weights. A simple 60-minute walk every day will also do wonders for your health and your body and skin will benefit from the fresh air.

If you have children then get them involved in your workouts they are now looking to you to guide them daily. Children imitate what they see so give them something great to watch and take ad-vantage of bonding over your fitness workouts and have fun whilst ensuring they too stay healthy.

Make exercise a priority not a chore and your body will thank you – set yourself a time each day where you workout whether it be morning or evening, time really is on our side right now so we need to utilise it well.

Wellness If your job requires you to work from home make sure that your home office set up is ergonomically aligned for your posture.

Ensure your laptop is positioned so you are not stooping over your key-board and that you are taking regular intervals away from your computer screen to give your eyes a rest.

Having a water bottle nearby to refill and quench your thirst will do wonders for your concentration as your new work environment may be a little distracting. Also don’t become reliant on caffeinated drinks to power you through your day as they will interfere with your sleep pattern and energy levels and although they provide a slight pick me up the come down is a lot more severe.

It is also crucial that we adapt to a good sleeping pattern right now in order to be productive through our day and so that we do not become sluggish from late night binge watching which can have a detrimental affect on our mental and physical wellbeing down the line.

Also planning your meals ahead will not only help you gain structure in your household but it will ensure that you are not snacking on sugary drinks and sweets just because they are

Crank up the music, have a mini concert in your living room.

in the next room. Prepare healthy snacks such as egg and spinach muffins for your breakfast and meals that will slowly release energy throughout your day. We don’t want to look back in 2-6 months and realise all we lived off was junk food whilst waiting for the storm to pass.

Look to planting fruits and vegetables as a way of being productive during this time, helping the environment by reducing plastic waste and eating organically from your own back yard.

Mindfulness Right now we are spending more time at home than usual so we need to ensure our days are filled with purpose. So be sure to get up and make your bed and conduct your usual routine of showering and getting changed. Staying in your PJs is great, but can also make you feel sluggish and can ultimately affect your mood.

The world is throwing a lot of information at us right now and consuming it all at once can be bit overwhelming. This requires us to take some quiet time and disconnect from our devices and the world. Take a few minutes everyday to sit in silence and regulate your breathing thinking of nothing but your own thoughts and reconnecting with your body. As you would do in the office switch off from work at 6pm and put all electrical devices down by 8pm – this in turn will give your mind enough time to unwind from the day and switch off.

There are several tasks and hobbies that we can take up during this time that can occupy our minds and help us switch off such as painting or colouring or even word searches.

Having that escapism for 30 minutes a day will help us clear our minds and bring some positivity into our lives.

Music is known to lift our mood so take advantage of being your own boss whilst at home and put on your favourite music whilst you answer your emails or crank up the volume and have your own mini concert in your living room, no-body need ever know.

It’s also key that you do not feel guilty for having some youtime – it is essential. This may only mean having 30 minutes a day to read a book on your own or simply locking the door and taking a bath but that is vital you-time that is part of your own wellbeing.

At the end of each day find one thing to be grateful for, it may be your health or your loved ones whatever it is treasure that thought to get you through to the next day.

When else are we ever going to get this pause button on our lives where we can ask ourselves what do I really want to do with my life? This is the time to get a new hobby, start that new DIY task or even up skill yourself in preparation for a potential career change.

We have been given a perfect opportunity to press re-set on our lives, we now have to grab this with both hands and come out the other side more enriched and grateful human beings.

Whatever your new normal now consists of whether you are now homeschooling full-time or working from home or simply pottering finding ways to fill your day be creative and make sure every-thing you do benefits your mind, body or soul.

Remember that after every storm comes a beautiful rainbow.

Stay Safe! www.bulalicious.com •

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E C O INITIATIV E

t a s e v o r g n a m e h t g n o m A

Marriot Momi Bay Fiji’s Marriot resort at Momi Bay oversaw the planting of 2020 mangroves in an inititiative that is designed to restore, maintain and manage the marine ecosystem.

M

arriott International Fiji Resorts as the leading hotel company in Fiji with three brands and five resorts in the portfolio were delighted to announce that associates and guests gathered together on 20 February 2020 to plant 2020 mangrove seedlings at their Marriott Momi Bay resort.

The significance of the date posed the ideal timing to highlight the effects of climate change and garner support for the Marriott International for Mangroves, Rivers & Reefs foundation. In partnership with The Ministry of Fisheries, Fiji,

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the foundation actively hosts eco focused activities and events for guests and associates to participate and contribute to fund projects that sustain, manage and protect Fiji’s important marine ecosystem.

Approximately 100 people planted the 2020 mangrove seedlings along the Momi Bay shoreline including Tui Nalolo – Ratu Kini from local Lomawai Village which are important to protect coastlines, prevent erosion and provide feeding habitats for marine life.

For more information, visit marriottfijiresorts.com •

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Above: The Marriot Momi Bay Resort on the western coast of Fiji’s Viti Levu. Left and below: Mangrove saplings planted by 100 assocites and guests of the resort.

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C H R I S T IAN A COOK S

Chicken feed Christiana Kaluscha takes a look at chooks and comes up with two delicious ways to enjoy your poultry.

C

hicken is the most popular type of poultry in the world.

Owing to the relative ease and low cost of raising them in comparison to animals such as cattle or pigs, chickens have become prevalent throughout the cuisine of cultures around the world. With its mild taste and uniform texture, chicken presents a blank canvas for the flavour palette of almost any cuisine.

When you buy chicken, try to buy organic or at least free range. The skin should have a yellow tint, and the meat should be pinkish and natural-looking. Look for grass-fed chicken, rather than chicken that was fed corn or other feeds. Chicken can be labelled as ‘free-range’ if the producer can prove that the chickens have been given access to the outdoors.

The more humanely the chickens are raised and butchered, the less stress they endure and thus the more pristine their meat will be.

If all you ever buy is boneless, skinless chicken breasts, you’re missing out on a lot. When seeking chicken, I recommend always going with thighs over another part of the bird, it’s the most tender, flavourful, and very versatile.

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If you don’t mind picking a bone, apart from the thighs, one of the best parts are the wings. There’s a higher skin to meat percentage than any other part of the chicken and the skin of the wing helps create that succulent mouth feel.

Deep-fried, baked, buffalo, or teriyaki, they are all delicious.

Chicken can be cooked in many ways. It can be made into sausages, skewered, put in salads, traditionally grilled, breaded and deep-fried, or used in various curries and stews.

One way to save a few dollars is to buy whole chickens and cut them yourself. Consider boneless, skinless chicken breast prices can cost as much as 5 times more per kilo!

The process of cutting apart a whole chicken can be intimidating. But it’s not too difficult once you get the hang of it. It’s matter of learning some chicken anatomy.

To explain it here in detail I would run out of space. I therefore recommend checking this easy tutorial out on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r86SgKX_8p0 Don’t waste the back bone. Use it to make stock for soups and freeze it in plastic containers.

OK, let’s get cooking!

Chicken Cacciatore An Italian classic – comfort food at its best!

In Italian, cacciatore means hunter. When something is said to be made ‘al cacciatore’, it is referring to a hunter-style meal prepared with onions, herbs, tomatoes and wine.

This meal has been altered over the years, but still resembles the original dish from the 15th century. It was an easy meal for hunters to cook while away from home, out chasing wild game. They used what was available to them, which was frequently rabbit instead of chicken, and whatever herbs and vegetables they could find.

INGREDIENTS • 8 skinless chicken thighs bone-in • Sea salt • Black pepper • ¼ cup of olive oil •1 medium onion diced • 8 cloves garlic (minced) • 1 small green capsicum, diced • 1 small red capsicum, diced • 1 large carrot peeled and sliced • 300g mushrooms sliced • 1/2 cup pitted black olives • 8 sprigs thyme • ¼ cup each freshly chopped parsley and basil plus more to garnish • 1 teaspoon dried oregano • 150 ml dry red wine • 820g crushed tomatoes • 2 tablespoons tomato paste • 2 Tsp. of chicken stock powder • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes METHOD • Season chicken with salt and pepper.

• Heat oil in a heavy cast iron skillet and sear chicken on both sides until golden • Take chicken out and save in a separate bowl.

• Fry the onion until transparent, then add the garlic and sauté until fragrant (about 30 seconds).

• Add the peppers, carrot, mushrooms and herbs; sauté for 5 minutes until vegetables are beginning to soften.

• Place the chicken back into the casserole • Pour in the wine; allow to simmer and reduce down (about 4 minutes) • Add the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, and chilli flakes.

• Add the chicken stock powder and season with salt and pepper to your taste • Cover with lid, reduce heat to low and allow to simmer for 30-40 minutes or until the meat is falling off the bone. Stir occasionally.

• Add the olives, allow to simmer for a further 10 minutes.

Garnish with parsley and basil and serve immediately.

• Traditionally, rustic bread or polenta was served with cacciatore, but can be served it just as well with pasta, mashed potato or rice.

• Pair with a red wine such as Chianti Classico or Pinot Noir

Spicy and crispy baked chicken wings These wings are baked rather than fried, offering a healthier alternative to classic hot wings with the kick of my seasoning.

They are easy to prepare and are quite addictive for chicken wing lovers!

INGREDIENTS • 1 kg chicken wings • ½ cup of olive oil • ½ cup of soy sauce • ½ cup of Sriracha sauce •6 cloves garlic, minced • 1 Tbsp ginger, minced • ¼ cup of honey • ¼ cup sweet chilli sauce • ½ Tsp. cinnamon • 1 Tsp. sesame oil • 1 Tsp. cayenne pepper (optional) METHOD • Mix all ingredients together in a bowl • Add chicken wings and marinate for at least 4 hours or overnight • Preheat oven to 180 C • Spread the chicken on a baking tray lined with baking paper or aluminium foil in a single layer and spray with olive oil spray.

• Roast the chicken for about 45 minutes, turning once or twice, until browned and crispy.

islandliving | 65 pacific

Ewa Beach, Nauru Ph: +674 557 1000

Come in to Tropicana Cafe for a great range of meals and snacks, plus Nauru’s best coffee!

Friendly service and a huge range of beers, wines and spirits.

Ewa Beach, Nauru Ph: +674 557 1000

Nauru’s very own fishing tackle store!!

Open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Friday and Saturday 9am to 9pm.

Closed Sundays.

Distributors and agents of: LAVA GAS, DAVEY, MAKITA, DULUX, BIG RIVER TIMBER, SUPERCRAFT, PRYDA, MOBIL OIL, CASTROL, SELLEYS, YAMAHA, HALCO, PURE FISHING

Ewa Beach, Nauru Off Shore fishing, on shore fishing, spear fishing and more!

Quality and the best prices on the island!!

Ewa Beach Road. Phone: 557 1000 / 557 1001

The freshest bread, cakes and pastries on Nauru

Ewa Beach, Nauru Ph: +674 557 1000

Main Island Ring Rd, Anibare, Nauru Ph: (+674) 557 1111

A range of delicious food, including pizzas, and fresh coffee daily!

Luxury Rooms at Ewa Lodge Self-contained, air-conditioned apartments. Conveniently located.

Serviced daily by our friendly staff, our rooms feature satellite TV / DVD player, full bathroom, single and queen bed, desk and bar fridge and kitchen facilities.

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islandliving | 67 pacific

ABOD E

r o o d t u O

Bathing Beauties Until relatively recently the idea of bathing outdoors might have been seen as a little primitive but in the past few decades upmarket tropical resorts have made the luxurious outdoor shower or bath a de rigeur addition to a seaside holiday. Now everyone’s in on the act. By Toby Preston.

PICTURE Left: Marcus Walters, Thalia Haven Tasmania

Below: Just a tub and a view. Thalia Haven surrounded by the crystal-blue waters of renowned Great Oyster Bay, Tasmania.

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Above: Pebbled courtyard bathroom which is typical of many tropical resorts. Below: Simple as it gets – a bamboo screen.

T

here was a time around 3000BC when all bathrooms were outside and communal, and before anyone ever thought of a bathroom, everyone bathed outside in a creek or a river.

There was also a time much more recently when toilets were still relegated to the bottom of the garden. Indeed indoor plumbing is one of those innovations which separated the civilised world from the unsewered world. Now though, particularly anywhere tropical the height of indulgence is the outdoor shower or bathroom, from luxurious versions in resorts to more modest private versions which may be as simple and unassuming as a hose clipped to a tree trunk. I have a beach shower in Vanuatu just a few metres from a little reef-enclosed lagoon pool on a white-sand beach which is just a flexible pipe with a shower head screwed to the trunk of a pandanus palm. This was once shaded by fronds but now, after a couple of slightly cyclonic ‘weather events’ all that’s left is a bare trunk with the shower rose at the top but it works a treat when you want to wash the sand and salt from your body after a dip.

I think my first encounter with a semi enclosed outdoorsy bathroom was probably about 25 years ago at Tamanu on the Beach in Vanuatu. In its original form this was an offthe-grid, sophisticated but ultimately simple iteration of a beachside getaway with a great restaurant and a couple of coral-walled bungalows which are still there but with a few more upmarket neighbours. I still enjoy staying in the originals and get all nostalgic about the bathrooms which remain freshly whitewashed and simple with luxurious linens and soothing bath products with green leaves peeping over the walls... and a sense of being somewhere which could not exist in a city. •

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From Six Senses in Fiji (top left) to the original Tamanu coral-walled simplicity (above left) to the shower rose on a pandanus stump, a

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recycled surfboard, and even a bath on wheels. The outdoor bathroom comes in myriad variations but the charm remains the same.

islandliving | 71 pacific

PAR AV ION

Soundtrack to Sanity Background noise has Toby Preston wondering why it’s become so intrusive and ubiquitous – it squawks from our household appliances, it comes from our car’s dashboard and its impossible to avoid, well almost!

W

hen transitioning from island isolation to metropolitan madness the most striking immediate impression is NOISE. It’s everywhere.

I realise that I live with a sort of electronic tinnitus, everything in modern life seems to emit a constant stream of bleeps, dings and tones warning of an incoming email, a text message, a defrosted lamb chop, an unbuckled seatbelt, a door open, a kids’ toy in play, a phone ringing, a doorbell chiming, a computer reboot …. And then there are the mechanical culprits – planes, or ‘aviation events’ as the authorities style them along with, at the moment, my neighbours multiple jackhammer renovations.

The worst of them is the persistent beeping my German washing machine emits when it’s finished a load of washing.

With typical Teutonic efficiency it doesn’t let up until the machine is switched off, meanwhile no amount of profanity hurled in its direction does anything to ameliorate the annoyance and anxiety this thing induces. I just have to do as commanded, get up from wherever I may be in the house and hit the bloody thing with a hammer – or in my calmer moments turn the knob to off.

Mostly those are noises that follow you around the world, all appliances beep in the same language as do cars although while I am used to the seatbelt warning boing boing, it’s when I’m on the move and something beeps that I have real concerns, was that the tyre low pressure warning or the stop immediately your engine is about to turn to shrapnel notification?

The other anxiety-inducing warning noises are those associated with the reversing camera and parking sensors. These proximity monitors go berserk at the sight of a tree on the other side of the road or pedestrians queuing for a coffee on the next corner, I’m in a constant state of fear of reversing over a family playing in the park half a block away. The only obstacles they are oblivious to are bollards below eye level in parking stations; their little ultrasonic brains haven’t been programmed to see these collisions waiting to happen.

The Bluetooth Battalion The most pervasive noises in the big city are often much more generic, there’s just a background hum which is not easily decoded, it’s probably a mix of the throb of traffic punctuated by the occasional blast of unmuffled exhaust pipes or screaming tyres, or compression braking trucks accompanied by power

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tools, blower brooms, computer fans, fridge motors and all those things that go silent when the power goes down.

It’s also the seeming need for some form of sound to be pumped out of every public space, from the mournful reverberating music heard in cavernous car parks to the ubiquitous TV monitors mounted in every waiting room, pub bar and airport lounge which are tuned to mindless daytime soapies or a smorgasbord of sport which no one can keep up with but simply provide an unnecessary annoying distraction when sharing a space with strangers most of whom are inspecting their smart phones, or listening through those strange little white protuberances sticking out of their ears, these belong to the BYO noise generation, the ‘always on’ Bluetooth battalion.

I really don’t mind if people want to turn their ears into aerials but they are missing out on one of life’s great joys – silence. Or at least just the sounds of nature. It’s weirdly ironic that in an age of the mindful pursuit of peace and relaxation that it takes a phone app to find your inner tranquillity. I’m not deriding the Deepak Chopra approach to life, I like a bit of mindful meditation as much as the next devotee of Zen rumination, it’s just that there are places where zoning out is part of the landscape – an island for instance.

Mostly I find my quietude in Vanuatu but I’ve also experienced it in Fiji, The Solomons, Bali (in the mountains, not in Seminyak or Kuta), in a Norwegian fiord, on a Greek beach, on a New Zealand lake, in a Japanese ryokan in a wooden tub of steaming water and most notably on Ratua Island off the coast of Espiritu Santo. There the silence really was deafening, the absence of noise was almost cloying, it left me consciously straining to hear, as if I’d gone deaf and was panicking about not being aware of sound. I soon got used to that sensation and discovered the pleasure of, well, nothing.

Of course there are some sounds which are absolutely soothing, and I don’t mean just the shakuhachi or whales communing but the sound of birds on the bougainvillea in the morning, a breeze in the palm fronds but the best background music of all for me is the sound of waves breaking over the reef, sometimes as a gentle ripple others a great roar. The rhythm of the sea is ever changing and reassuringly constant, as it has been for millennia. That’s the noise I miss most when I’m not in my island home.•

F I J I M A R R I O T T R E S O RT M O M I B AY Savusavu Road, Momi Bay, Viti Levu, Fiji P +679 670 7000 | E momibay.reservations@marriott.com www.fijimarriott.com

Š 2020 Marriott International, Inc. All rights reserved.

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