Pacific Island Living Issue 29 by Pacific Island Living

Islandliving pacific

SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 29

LUXURY ISLAND GETAWAYS FIJIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST

PACIFIC WEDDINGS FASHION STYLE AND MORE

AU$5 (incl. GST)

ISSN 2200-9566

9 772200 956005

FIJI | VANUATU | SAMOA | SOLOMON ISLANDS | MARSHALL ISLANDS

PICTURE: Tivua Island, Fiji by Captain Cook Cruises Fiji.

F R O M TH E E D ITOR

eddings - it’s that time of year again when couples around the region tie the knot in Spring. More and more Aussie and Kiwi couples are choosing the Pacific to marry, elope or renew their vows and it’s no wonder. With stunning locations from private islands in Fiji to full kastom ceremonies in Vanuatu and resorts big enough to cater for an extended family in Samoa, our team has put together their picks of the best places to say ‘I do’. For those of us not getting married, this issue of Pacific Island Living has tips on family holidays, adults-only holidays, what to wear, what to cook and how to decorate your home Hamptons-style. We also feature a profile on one of Fiji’s most successful yet humble tourism operators, Jackie Haworth-Charlton from Captain Cook Cruises. Jackie is an inspiration to women across the Pacific and across the tourism industry world-wide in fact. She has easily

filled the sizeable shoes left by her parents, the pioneers of tourism in Australia Trevor and Geraldine Haworth and grown Captain Cook Cruises Fiji to what it is today. Her story is on page 112. We also have some fantastic new imagery from our contract photographer David Kirkland – his first assignment for us was Samoa. And this year I returned to Tanna island in Vanuatu – probably my all time favourite destination in the Pacific. It’s the place you need to go to connect and recharge – but not in a spa and yoga kind of way. Check out my story from page 24 to see why. To keep up to date with all our news and reviews on the Pacific, go to our website at pacificislandliving.com Happy reading.

Tiffany Carroll

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GUEST CONTRIBUTORS

Pacific Island Living No 29 | Spring 2019 Cover photo: Model Nieves Alvares at Tokoriki Island Resort. Solomons and Nauru cover by Kevin Green. EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Nicole Brown FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Georgie Gordon, Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Rebecca Murphy, Carolyn Ernst, Alex Bertoli, Christiana Kaluscha, Lauren Jagger, Craig Tansley, David Kirkland, Tony Wilson, Elaine Wilson, Jemma Senico, Jenny-Lee Scharnboeck. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Pat Ingram

Rod Eime Rod has been travelling the South Pacific since his first cruise as a 10-year old. Since then he has travelled extensively throughout the islands to many remote and seldom visited atolls and lagoons in search of stories for his many outlets. In particular he finds the cultures, marine life and history of the vast ocean fascinating. Recipient of numerous accolades, including a coveted PATA Gold Award, Rod is ready to tackle the challenging stories for Pacific Island Living. This issue he writes from the Marshall Islands and tells the fascinating story of a near indestructible German warship the Prinz Eugen.

PUBLISHER: Craig Osment ADVERTISING INQUIRIES www.pacificislandliving.com Email: sales@photogenicpr.com Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 1698 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving Twitter

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COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Samoa Airways or Pacific Island Living. Pacific Island Living is the official inflight magazine of Nauru Airlines and publisher of Samoa Airways’ inflight magazine Malaga.

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Kevin Green Vanuatu expat and former butcher, dive shop owner, ship captain and military man Kevin Green has always been a ‘handy photographer’. Now semi-retired, Kevin spends his time traveling as much as possible and documenting his travels via his Facebook page Kevin Green Photography. Recently he skippered a cruise from Solomon Islands to PNG and shared his images with us in our Solomon Islands destination guide.

Tony Wilson Veteran Aussie journalist Tony Wilson retired from mainstream media a few years ago and moved to Vanautu. The former Gold Coast Bulletin and Melbourne Herald journo is the author of several books with another in the making. Tony has written for us regularly from Vanuatu where he was well known as a newspaper columnist and publisher. This issue he completes a trilogy of stories from the Solomon Islands where he has been absorbing the local culture and staying in offbeat places.

On page 60 Shannon Kozak tells of her dive adventures while on a trip from Munda, Solomon Islands up to Rabaul, Papua New Guinea on the Solomons PNG Navigator.

CONTENTS 9 1 0 2 g n i r p S 6

Pacific experts Jemma Senico and Jenny-Lee Scharnboeck provide their tips on what to see and do in Vanuatu.

PICTURE: Kevin Green

MORE THAN A MOUNTAIN Vanuatu’s Tanna island is noted for its spectacular active volcano but Tiffany Carroll revisits her favourite island and

STYLE – GIFTS FOR THOSE WHO HAVE EVERYTHING Olivia Waugh rounds up the perfect wedding gifts for those hard-to-buy-for brides and grooms.

BEAUTY SPOT Gains without pain. Science is now delivering any number of cosmetic treatments which are non invasive and relatively pain-free and far less time consuming than a surgical procedure.

HEALTHY LIVING – THE FAST 800 DIET Georgie Gordon reports that this diet, if followed correctly should leave you feeling alert and in a good mood during the day … and you’ll lose weight.

MARINE MASTERPIECE Craig Osment is transported to another level of luxury and otherworldly peace at one of Fiji’s most stunning island resorts where he finds a deep commitment to maintaining its earthly advantages.

BOOK LOOK Book your ticket now, this issue’s books take in destinations from middle eastern souks to south east Asia, Poland and beyond.

FASHION FLASH Women in White and Men in Black – Olivia Waugh says that on your wedding day as the bride, a groom or a guest you need to look your best.

NET ASSETS Georgie Gordon’s website compilation covers recommendations on everything from dumplings to whitewater rafting as well as a bunch of quirky videos.

BEACHCOMBER There’s a new harbour front accommodation gem on Port Vila harbour, news of a giant north Pacific clean up, info on how to swim with and save manta rays plus a gorgeous new pool in Fiji.

confirms that there’s far more to this must-see island than just an erupting mountain.

ASK THE EXPERTS – VANUATU REVEALED

THE WEDDING SPECIAL Welcome to our fourth 12-page annual round-up of the best wedding venues and services the Pacific has to offer. What better start to a life of wedded bliss than the perfect location for you, your friends and family. From Fiji to Vanuatu or Samoa, take your pick.

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Above left: The view from one of Kokomo Private Island’s ‘luxury residences’ – fabulous but comes at a price. Right: White Grass Resort, Tanna.

FUN WAYS TO HOLIDAY FITNESS Lauren Jagger shows how to stay fit the fun way when on holidays – grab a kayak or a snorkel and goggles.

DESTINATION GUIDE Your portal to the Pacific. The Pacific is made up of some of the most spectacular islands in the world. We take a closer look with a regional selection. This issue we dip our lid to the hatmakers of Vanuatu. Then it’s off to the Solomons to experience diving before we move on to Samoa to discover authentic Polynesia. Finally Rod Eime tells the fascinating story of a near indestructible German warship which ended up in the Marshall Islands

RESTAURANT ROUNDUP Our recommendations for some of the regions best eating opportunities - this time in Fiji.

CHRISTIANA COOKS – BASIL Basil is widely grown throughout the world, and usually grows well in the Pacific region too. Here’s Christiana Kaluscha’s guide what it’s good for and how to use it.

ABODE– WEATHERED AND WEALTHY Inspired by the decorating and architectural styles of a renowned group of Long Island, New York villages, Hamptons style is the new go-to décor trend for simple sophistication. By Toby Preston.

BOARDING SCHOOLS We take a look at four Queensland boarding schools favoured by Pacific island students.

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100 ART SMART– WISH FULFILMENT A remarkable collection of contemporary and clever artworks have emerged from a little-known, small Vanuatu island thanks to a Brisbane couple.

106 LONG DISTANCE LOVE AFFAIR When you wish upon a star – you could end up married ... in Disneyland. Rod Eime checks out fantasy wedding options which can make your dream come true with Mickey and Minnie as your witnesses.

112 PACIFIC PEOPLE – TOURISM ROYALTY Jackie Haworth-Charlton of Fiji’s Captain Cook Cruises was born into the tourism industry

114 GLORIOUS GARDENS – OUTDOOR DINING Why not use one of the best ‘rooms’ in the house and get outside for entertaining on a grand scale or just a casual meal with a few friends. Carolyn Ernst tells how to prepare your garden for a great meal.

117 THE CROSSWORD While you’re relaxing, that’s no excuse for not keeping your neurons nubile and your brain busy.

119 THE PEOPLE BEHIND YOUR MAGAZINE The behind-the-scenes scene, who makes your magazine every issue, contributors and staff details.

128 PAR AVION – CLASS ACTION Toby Preston tries to decode the Pacific’s social hierarchy but finds few external clues.

K E E P IN TOU CH We love hearing from our readers! You can get in touch via our website www.pacificislandliving.com or follow us on social media - @pacisliving. And here’s where you can find us at home.

ur website has all of our articles from across the Pacific and you can sign up for our fortnightly newsletter that contains many unpublished offers and specials exclusively for Pacific Island Living readers. We share and follow the best resorts around the Pacific on our instagram page @pacisliving and also on our Facebook page. Join around 90,000 others to keep up to date with the

latest news and reviews of the Pacific. Our print edition can now be picked up throughout Singapore and Hong Kong, as well as in Fiji, Vanuatu, Samoa, Solomon Islands, Australia and New Zealand. You can also subscribe online. We’re always on the hunt for new members of our team, so if you’re a talented writer, photographer or marketing guru, get in touch with us via our website. ‘Influencers’ need not apply.

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A S K TH E E X PE R TS

Vanuatu Revealed Our instant guide to Pacific destinations brought to you by local experts, Jemma Senico and Jenny-Lee Scharnboeck. This time Efaté and Port Vila – tips for travellers. Why Vanuatu? Beautiful blue swimming holes, unique experiences, great food and beautiful people is what keeps us going back to Vanuatu. Why is Vanuatu unique? Voted the Happiest Place on Earth, Vanuatu has 83 diverse islands to explore with something for everyone. Favourite place to dine with your feet in the sand? Lunch at Breakas Beach Resort. You’re Perfect Pacific morning? Oceanfront Yoga at Reflections Retreat. Where to buy gifts for friends and family? The Haos Blong Handicraft on the seafront. What is your best kept secret? Hiring a boat and driver for the day (from Gideons Landing in Havannah Harbour) to take you to secluded beaches around Lelepa Island. Where can you get a good coffee? Cappuccino overlooking the bay at Chantilly’s. Which island wouldn’t you mind being deserted on? Moso Island. Where to have an afternoon of pamper? Iririki Spa. They have private treatment rooms with a view of the harbour looking down from the top of Iririki Island.

Where to get sweet treats? From the French bakery (Le Fournil de Vila) inside the Tana Russet building. Where to stay for luxury? Eratap Resort. Where to stay for families? Warwick Le Lagon Where to stay for romance? A beachfront bungalow at Breakas Beach Resort. What $ do you need? The local currency is Vatu, bring Australian dollars to exchange at Fexco in town or at the airport. How to get there? Air Vanuatu fly direct from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne, Auckland, Noumea and Fiji several times a week. Fiji Airways flies from Nadi and Suva. How to get around? The local busses are coloured minivans with a ‘B’ on the number plate. There are no set routes so just flag them down, jump in and let the driver know where you want to go. Each ride costs 100-200 Vatu per person. What’s the weather like? Vanuatu has a warm and tropical climate year round, with a wet season from November to March. During the wet season you may experience intermittent showers at different times throughout the day.• Right from top: Lelepa Island off Efate; Breakas for lunch or dinner on the sand or a romantic stay; One of Vanuatu’s blue swimming holes; Eratap Resort.

“Sinfully Good Food”

P: 338 6246 | Facebook: edenfiji E: eden@connect.com.fj www@edenfiji.com.fj Cnr Bureta & Maharaj St, Tamavua, Suva

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B E A CH COMBE R Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.

HARBOUR SIDE JEWEL Designed for couples or groups of guests seeking luxurious five-star accommodation in Vanuatu, Onyx Harbour Luxury Resort Residences is the perfect island retreat. The absolute waterfront position overlooks the azure waters of Port Vila harbour, Onyx offers an incomparable South Pacific setting with breathtaking views. The Residences feature three four- and five- bedroom luxury resort residences that share a 20-metre sparkling pool overlooking the harbour with a barbecue area, sunbathing areas, boat moorings and 27

metres of absolute water frontage. Residences are stocked with all the comforts of home as well as luxury extras such as deluxe bed and bath linens, Nespresso coffee machines, fully equipped superior kitchen, housekeeping, WiFi, satellite TV, secure front gate and private covered parking. Airport transfers are also included. Let Onyx take care of you with a tailored experience package and other unique add-ons to guarantee your enjoyment and relaxation during your stay in Vanuatu. Visit www.onyxvanuatu.com for more info.

GIVING BACK Good360 is a matchmaker. They help repurpose brand new, surplus goods by directing them to Australians who need them most. Good360 launched in 2015 by founder and managing director, Alison Covington (right) with donations from 3M, Linen House, Shoes of Prey and Lush going to 100 Not for Profits and schools. To date Good360 has received over $85 million of brand new goods from businesses and connected 8 million items to Australians who need them most. Good360 currently supports over 1,207 Not for Profits and eligible schools across 24 cause areas. Their Australia-wide network of members includes NFPs such as Rural Aid, The Salvation Army, St Kilda Mums and The Cerebral Palsy Alliance. Their product donors now include L’Oréal Australia, LEGO, BIG W, Moose Toys, Lush and many more. “Whether it’s toys to a domestic violence shelter or notebooks for a mental health program, if Australians have the need, our business partners have the goods,” Ms Covington said. “We believe that one person’s extra is another person’s essential. That’s why our goal is for nothing useful to lie unused.”

Good360 accepts donations of brand new goods from businesses Australia wide and services charities and schools in all states and territories. If you are a business or corporate and want to find out more about how you can donate your brand new surplus goods call 02 8594 3600 or email contact@good360.org.au. For more information about Good360 visit www.good360.org.au

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NEW POOL ROCKS VOMO Island Fiji’s luxurious new infinity pool is now open. The adults only ‘Rocks Pool’ is adjacent to the secluded Rocks Bar & Restaurant in a private setting on the western tip of Vomo island and forms part of a chilled-out, chic area for adult guests to relax and soak up the sun. The new adult-only zone is a sophisticated addition to family friendly VOMO – one of Fiji’s most popular family resorts – where couples and groups of friends can enjoy their own space and seclusion. Decks flow from the Rocks Bar down to the new pool area surrounded with designer day beds to relax in privacy

and spacious deck areas. Gentle body-curved sunchairs sit partially submerged in the pool’s water edge for a lap of water and sun at the same time. The natural green stone tiled pool blends perfectly into its tropical garden surroundings and is back dropped by Vomo Lailai (little Vomo island). The gentle curve of the infinity pool’s edge stunningly merges the pool with the ocean beyond, with the little island seemingly perched atop the pool’s infinity line. Vomo claims the “The Rocks is a multi-concept space, with the famous chic Rocks Bar & Restaurant serving tropical cocktails as the sun slips below the horizon, along with complimentary canapés. It’s also a perfect evening dining spot”.

NETWORKING ENVIRONMENTALISTS Ocean Voyages Institute, a nonprofit organisation, announced recently that it has successfully removed more than 40 tons of fishing nets and consumer plastics from the area known as the North Pacific Subtropical Convergence Zone, or more commonly known as the Pacific Gyre. The 25-day clean up mission took place in the Pacific, between California and Hawaii where four ocean currents converge to create a vortex that collects huge amounts of plastics. Commonly seen plastics include detergent bottles, beer and soft drink crates, bleach and cleaning bottles, plastic furniture, packaging straps, buckets, children’s toys, and myriad types of plastic floating mid-ocean. This debris field covers vast expanses of ocean. A prime target for OV Institute’s 2019 voyage was the fishing gear called ‘ghost nets’. Often weighing tons, these massive nets of nylon or polypropylene drift for decades, amassing plastic debris, ensnaring wildlife, and even entangling ships. An estimated 600,000 tons of this abandoned gear ends up in the oceans every year. According to the United Nations, some 380,000 marine mammals are killed every year by either ingesting or being caught in it. “Satellite technology played a key role in our recovery effort,

offering an innovative solution to finding areas of dense plastic pollution,” said Mary Crowley, Founder and Executive Director of OV Institute. “The nets and other debris are signs of the proliferating plastic pollution that poses threats to marine life, coastal environments, shipping, fisheries, wildlife and our health.” We in the south Pacific are indeed lucky that our area is cleaner but the ocean is for everyone and keeping it clean is everyone’s responsibility.

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PA C I F IC PE OPLE

A Few Of My Favourite Things Senior lawyer in the office of Geoff Gee & Co but avid surfer out of it, Stephanie Mahuk shares some of her favourite things in Vanuatu. 1. TAMANU OIL – liquid gold. I swear by this pungent oil for all sorts of skin problems, from being scraped along a limestone road in a bike crash to deep coral cuts and sun burnt, salt pickled skin – this oil has seen me through it all. 2.THE PANGO LINE UP – my weekend schedule is dictated by the tides and the swell. I love sitting in the line-up which is so dynamic from the village groms to expatriates. The conversations are never dull! The resident dugongs are a treat when they swim around your ankles expecting a belly rub. I am particularly in awe of the skill level of the local surfers thanks to the work of the Vanuatu Surfing Association and the number of village girls sharing the waves and slaying it is terrific. A testament of the Solwota Sista initiative. 3. EGMAOUT – this spot is quite special. My dear friend Risu Kalotiti started a coral garden and helping her maintain, replant and transplant from the garden with the Solwota Sistas is a very rewarding experience knowing that the toil will help restore bleached and dead reef in the area to encourage marine life to thrive and a healthier ecosystem. 4. GASTON CHOCOLAT – Handcrafted chocolate bars of authentic Vanuatu origin and inspiration. Olivier is a financial guru by qualification and a chocolatier at heart. His passion for chocolate runs deep from hopping on random boats to Malekula in order to train farmers in producing the perfect bean to spending hours in his factory brewing the perfect blend for a bar (while juggling a full time desk job). My favorite flavour is the caramalised nangae nut and sea salt. This flavour and his coconut bar won the 2019 bronze awards at the Academy of Chocolate International awards in London. 5. MARIE ST HILAIRE – Marie is one of my favourite artistic souls on the island for her joie de vivre and beautiful pottery. Every item from her kiln is crafted with so much attention and love. Each piece is distinct from the other. Her kava bowls are a stylish must have for nakamal visits.•

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NET ASSETS:

The Web Guide

Georgie Gordon surfs the net and finds sites that recommend everything from dumplings to white-water rafting. THE WHAT Best friends Gina and Amy sold their successful start-up and decided to create something to excite, interest and inspire. That something is The What – a weekly list of recommendations of everything and anything including (but not limited to) books, swimsuits, dumplings, music and travel destinations. Everything on the lists has been read, seen, heard, eaten or experienced by the authors and they don’t get paid for any of it, which gives The What an authenticity that is hard to come by on the internet these days. thewhatlist.com

ILLUMELATION Illumelation is perfect for a daily dose of desk bound escapism. The travel blog by London-based Mel Legarda is thoughtfully designed and brimming with beautiful images of places we’d rather be. Legarda traverses the globe shining a light on the places less travelled and offering plenty of tips and recommendations along the way. From white-water rafting in Uganda to hiking in Greece, there’s a plethora of travel experiences to inspire and delight. illumelation.com

THE CINNAMAN The Cinnaman is a truly beautiful baking blog by Majid Ali, a cook, photographer and food stylist who not only shares delicious recipes but also his stunning photographs of them. Be warned you can get lost easily in this blog, falling down a wormhole of baking delights such as cheesy spinach and artichoke pull-apart bread and baklava cinnamon honey ice-cream. The only thing to save you is the pull of the kitchen to re-create some of Ali’s masterpieces. thecinnaman.com

MEDIUM Medium is pure brain food. This site taps into the minds of the world’s most insightful thinkers, writers and storytellers to bring you informed opinions on the topics that matter. Whatever your interest this site aims to give a fresh perspective. From articles on cryptocurrency to gardening and politics to pop culture, every piece is well written and well researched. And for those that value their time each article has an estimate of how long it will take to read. medium.com

THE CHIVE If you’ve ever wondered where the funny, strange and downright stupid videos that constantly pop up on your social media accounts came from, there’s a good chance it was here on The Chive. It’s got animal videos galore, footage of people being generally awesome and plenty of the eternally funny genre – ‘people hurting themselves’. Not only that, you can find the latest in Franken food monstrosities and a lot of other randomness to escape the mundane. thechive.com

DEZEEN For lovers of great design, you can’t go past Dezeen. Explore feats of architecture from Montpellier to Malaysia, articles on the latest innovations and VIP access to the world’s chicest interiors. Drone footage and videos allow you to explore buildings better than if you were in them and there are also interesting opinion pieces on everything from fashion to the way architects are responding to technology and climate change. dezeen.com

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BOOK L O O K :

Out and about

From souks to south east Asia to Poland and beyond - Georgie Gordon packs her bags. PARIS AND OTHER DISAPPOINTMENTS by Adam Rozenbachs (Viking) When comedian Adam Rozenbachs decided to take his father to Europe for three weeks he thought it would be the trip of a lifetime: a chance for his dad to return to the places he hadn’t seen since fleeing post-war Germany and a chance for Adam to repay his dad for everything he’d given him. However, neither got what they bargained for. Not only is this memoir of the author’s trip from hell laugh out loud funny it is also an observant piece on father son relationships and the joys, and pitfalls, of travel.

DOWN AND OUT IN PARADISE by Luke Williams (Echo) In this searingly honest and at times confronting book awarding winning journalist Luke Williams delves into the seedy side of one the worlds favourite travel destinations, Asia. Down and Out in Paradise is about all the things Westerner’s go there for – money, wives, ladyboys, cheap drugs and yes, tropical beaches, too. Taking his job seriously, the author spends a month working as prostitute in Pattaya, he eats snake heart in Vietnam and consults a medium in Ubud, the result is a thoroughly entertaining, and eyeopening, read.

THE BELLS OF OLD TOKYO by Anna Sherman (Picador) Part travel memoir, part cultural history Sherman’s book interweaves Tokyo’s past and present in the most captivating way. For 300 years, when Tokyo was known as Edo and closed to outsiders, the city relied on public bells to mark the time. This story is the search for those bells and so much more besides. It is the tales of the city and the people that inhabit it which make it the entirely unique place that it is today.

SAFFRON IN THE SOUKS by John Gregory-Smith (Hachette) In his latest book travel and food writer Gregory-Smiths explores the exquisite beauty and bold flavours of Lebanon. From the vibrant souks of Beirut to the quiet Chouf Mountains, the author travelled all over the country uncovering the best of each region’s cuisine. Gregory-Smith shares his take on delicious meze dishes including fattoush and kibbeh, traditional stews and mouth-watering desserts. Beautiful photographs bring the food, and the country, to life.

PARIS FOR FOOD LOVERS by Elin Unnes (Hardie Grant) Part of a new series of books shining a light on the best cities for foodies, Paris for Food Lovers is a guide to the gluttony capital of the world. Discover the coolest places to eat in the city of light, from the best market stalls, the tastiest and cheapest oysters, restaurants in alleys, bars in cellars, bistros and ‘nouvelle’ cuisine. Organised into chapters for different parts of Paris, the book also has stunning photographs and informative interviews.

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A CHIP SHOP IN POZNAN by Ben Aitken (Icon) Not many Brits move to Poland to work in a fish and chip shop. Fewer still come back wanting to be a Member of the European Parliament. Ben Aitken did both. This candid, funny and offbeat book is the account of his year travelling the country as an unlikely immigrant. It is a portrait of an unsung country, challenging stereotypes that Poland is a grey, ex-soviet land, and revealing a diverse country proud of its colourful identity.

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IS L A ND LU X URY

Marine

Aerial view of Kokomo island showing west-facing villa-lined beach.

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Masterpiece d n a l s I e Privat Kokomo

Craig Osment is transported to another level of luxury and otherworldly peace at one of Fiji’s most stunning island resorts where he finds a deep commitment to maintaining its earthly advantages.

arine biologist Cliona O’Flaherty says ‘I’m Irish actually’ – really! With that accent and name? She qualified as a zoologist in Dublin and made a circuitous trip to Fiji via Africa. She’s also a qualified dive instructor and that is how she landed her original job at Kokomo Private Island. Prior to our meeting to discuss her work here we were told by resort manager Jacques Louw that we’d find her ‘passionate’ about her reef restoration work and marine conservation and after an hour and a half of conversation we were in no doubt about her commitment to maintaining Fiji’s unique underwater world and its mangroves. She has set up a coral nursery to propagate species which are suited to warmer water, they are attached to ropes on a frame and allowed to grow for up to six months before being transplanted to the reef using an adhesive patty of cement and sand. This is an activity

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in which guests are invited to participate with the hope that 2000 corals will be transplanted this year. Apart from the coral garden she is also in the midst of initiating, in conjunction with the UN’s Manta Trust, an electronic acoustic tagging program which is designed to keep track of these harmless and extraordinary creatures which cruise the nearby reefs. The local variety have wingspans of up to four metres and can be found, in season, barrel-rolling quite close to shore with no apparent objection to humans getting up close with snorkels and masks. Cliona is the perfect guide when you’re touring the reef in the resort’s glass bottom boat, she knows every coral species and where to find the manta rays. Her work has just been recognised by Women in Travel with the well deserved and prestigious Sustainable Practices Champion award. Her enthusiasm for conservation is funded and encouraged by the resort’s developer and owners, Australian billionaire Lang Walker and his wife Sue. Cliona insists that the great advantage of working for an individual with a shared zeal is that decisions to advance the cause are made quickly and put into action much faster than traditionally funded academic research. It seems that this pursuit is not the only one that is assisted by ‘Lang’s’ (Lang’s name is invoked regularly by all the staff and there is no doubt that his influence and hand is everywhere) dedication to his island indulgence, his ecosensitive vision is responsible for a sustainability program on several fronts – from a hydroponic garden to a free range

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chook run for the egg-producing chickens, their own bee hives for honey production and a beautifully presented vegetable garden through to sustainable big game fishing. I also happened to notice that what looked like a plastic cup for my room-delivered orange juice was ‘made from plants, not oil’. The island has a water filtration system as well as a greywater and sewage treatment system. All in the interests of reducing the eco footprint from the expensive footwear of their well-heeled guests. And you do need to have a substantial cash flow or be prepared to save for the holiday of a lifetime in order to experience the many delights of Kokomo. A one-night stay for two starts from a little over AU$4500 per night. That rate does include all food (but you pay for your booze) and a lot of other services including a fabulously quick and efficient laundry service, dedicated nannies, WiFi access and one introductory dive and spa voucher among other benefits. For all bookings, rates and facilities see website details at end of story. No news, no shoes Kokomo (named after a long line of Lang’s boats) opened a little over two years ago after having had millions of dollars lavished on the site – and it shows. Everything about this island reflects the perfectionist attitudes of the developer, having bumped into a couple of guests who are FOL (friends of Lang) we were assured that Lang doesn’t compromise on quality, and it shows. The gardens alone are tended by

PICTURES: Craig Osment, Jacques Louw, Cliona O’Flaherty

Above from left: The island’s private Twin Otter amphibious plane at the jetty; the view from a beachfront villa across the private infinity pool;

beachfront villa master bedroom; Yaukuve spa sanctuary treatment in progress.

50 landscapers and gardeners; almost 300 people (mostly locals)are employed to service the infrastructure and guests which at maximum capacity number 135 lucky inhabitants. So the service is not only instant and unobtrusive but typically Fiji-friendly and welcoming. From the moment of ‘first contact’ at Nadi International Airport to the island’s recently opened private aviation terminal through to the amphibious Twin Otter’s pontoons skimming the bay in front of the resort – the service is seamless and professional. The musical greeting at the door is performed by staff and culminates in the inevitable ‘bula’. Kokomo claims to offer ‘relaxed luxury’ and that approach is confirmed when the plane’s co-pilot emerges from the cockpit with bare feet which he explains is most appropriate for an island. And for this island that is absolutely the case, there is no formality here, the emphasis is on relaxing in Fijian islandstyle comfort with the beach at your door and sand between your toes while your every need is taken care of. As they say about luxurious isolation – ‘no news, no shoes’. And, for something even more relaxing the Yaukuve (the island’s traditional name) Spa Sanctuary is the ultimate in soothing, sensory indulgence. After a greeting at the main colonial style building it’s off to the welcome pavilion where a hibiscus infusion and cold towel await along with a couple of Fijian masseuses ready to discuss exactly how much pressure we’d like applied during our scheduled 75-minute hot seashell massages. These take place in a bure for two which is to be found further along a pebble-paved path deeper into the lush

jungle-like surrounds. I emerge ready to hug a tree or slip into a trance having been transported to another level of what must be ‘mindfulness’. Protected by the great Astrolabe Reef Our villa is one of 21 which front directly on to either one of the west or east facing beaches on either side of this glorious 57-hectare island. The villas range in size from one to three bedrooms and are supplemented by five ‘residences’ of up to six bedrooms for larger groups or the publicity-shy. All villas have private infinity pools and large living and sleeping spaces with both indoor and outdoor bathrooms stocked with Pure Fiji products, a kitchenette with coffee machine and fridge and a shaded dining table on the deck which is perfect for in-villa dining. The Fijian vernacular architecture features careful detailing including intricately braided fibre bindings on the ceiling beams, specially commissioned artworks by Lang family friend Chris Kenyon and island artefacts. The colour palette is neutral and understated, which perfectly complements the blazingly vibrant sea, sand and sky beyond the glass doors and thatched eaves leading to the garden. The island is part of the Kadavu Group off the southern end of Viti Levu, about a 25-minute helicopter ride from Suva. This group is encircled by the Great Astrolabe Reef, which is the world’s fourth largest and famous for its sea life. Protected as it is by this natural wonder the susurration of the sea lapping the beach is the only external sound you’re likely to hear during

islandliving | 19 pacific

Above: The Beach Shack with basket lamps; right: The Beach Shack sits right on the beach. Below from left: East Beach; essential words; Kokomo farm.

Below: nurturing coral in the underwater garden; Jaga with the 30kg dogtooth tuna that later appeared on our plates.

20 | Islandliving pacific

your stay, well, apart from the occasional coming and going of the seaplane which is cause for some excitement and a photo op. Land transport is taken care of by electric buggies which can be called up for delivery to one of the three dining destinations at any time and seem to arrive at the entrance portico within seconds of having put down the phone. Our Hemingway moment Sea transport for us was the resort’s Riviera 40 fishing boat retrofitted with a tuna tower and captained by renowned fishing expert Jaga Crossingham. Jaga is a lithe and laconic Australian who is as passionate and knowledgeable about fishing as Cliona is about coral. Having never been big game fishing before we set off with the expectation that possibly no fish might be harmed during the course of this excursion, believing that fishing is the triumph of patience over optimism, with lines trailing for hours on end with little activity as clever fish take baits and treat hooks with disdain. We were wrong. Jaga not only knows his reef, he knows his sonar and was soon pointing to flurries of pixels on his radar screen which he assured us were big tuna. He rigged up two rods which he attached to either side of the transom and then proceeded to idle the massive and powerful engines while we awaited a ‘nibble’. When it happened the rod bent at an improbable angle as the line ran out at speed, Jaga was out of the captain’s chair and grabbing at the rod as he directed Demi, his deckhand, to constantly make small adjustments to the throttle so as to keep the boat above the fish as he sought to reel it in. When the gaff hook finally made contact with the prey and hauled it aboard it turned out to be a 30kg dogtooth tuna. Impressive! Next she-who-doesn’t-kill (my wife) landed a 7kg Spanish mackerel which was promptly dropped into in the icebox with the tuna – dinner was obviously taken care of. But that wasn’t the end of the quest as Jaga still had a bait or two in the box and set up the lines again to be rewarded with another bite shortly after. This time he declared the fish to be another dogtooth tuna (based on its underwater behaviour), which he estimated to weigh 80-90kg. The size of the fish and the 30lb-breaking-strain line only made Jaga more determined to land it, in spite of already holding the world record for this type of fishing. We were suddenly having our Hemingway moment as the fish dived to the full 350-metre extent of the line before he managed, after a protracted struggle to haul it up to within 100 metres of the surface at which point the line snapped and the quarry was off back to its reef and we to the resort dock. Clinton the chef from the Beach Shack restaurant was there to greet us at 6pm and by eight the fish were on our plates. The tuna as sashimi and the mackerel pan fried with lemon butter and a fennel salad – the freshest fish I’ve ever eaten. Kids welcome The other beachside dining option is the rather cutely named Walker d’ Plank which is overseen by Fijian chef Caroline Oakley who has dispensed with menus in favour of a chat

with guests about what is freshest in the kitchen and how you’d like it prepared. The emphasis here is super casual and the location is perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail while the sun descends behind the nearby islands. The food we choose is Asian influenced and presented as share plates which range across lobster, fish cakes, squid, tempura prawns, spring rolls and steamed dim sums accompanied by a bottle of South Australian Shiraz. Another lunch or dinner option is Kokocabana which is adjacent to the large public pool. The cabana has a smoothie, juice and dessert bar which is open all day and features a wood-fired pizza oven with a build-you-own pizza selection. This is also where the kids and teenagers hang out with all sorts of distractions designed to keep them occupied for hours. In addition to reef visits and fishing there is also a large selection of other diversions for those who are averse to too much lying around the pool. The list includes: paddle boarding, sailing, yoga, snorkelling – either right off the beach or further afield, scuba diving, kayaking, there’s a sea trampoline moored off the eastern beach, private boat charters, motorised water sports and sunset cruises as well as cultural activities and a gymnasium. You can also travel to a nearby island for a walk to a cooling waterfall or take the farm or village tour. And if you find all this just so overwhelmingly romantic and you’re up for it you can arrange to marry here with everything taken care of by the resort staff events team. Indeed Cliona was telling me that she has a couple planning some coral gardening and a manta ray tagging and naming experience for their wedding guests which should make for memorable nuptials apart from the idyllic island backdrop. Unsurprisingly, Kokomo is a difficult place to leave as it doesn’t take long to assimilate to the lifestyle of the rich and famous. But the parting is made a little easier by the farewell song and the knowledge that the flight back to Nadi will take in spectacular views of the surrounding islands and that exotically named Great Astrolabe Reef. Moce and Vinaka vaka levu! (Goodbye and thank you very much)•

Getting There Check the Kokomo website at kokomoislandfiji.com or call on +679 776 4441 or email: reservations@kokomoislandfiji.com There are flights to Fiji from Australia, New Zealand, Pacific islands, the USA and Asia serviced by Fiji Airways, Qantas, Air New Zealand, Air Vanuatu, Aircalin and Nauru Airlines among others. A four-month visa is granted automatically to most visitors and you’ll need six months validity on passport from your return date and a return ticket.

islandliving | 21 pacific

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A D V E NTUR E

There are not too many places in the world where you can visit a totally authenic village, untouched by the western

Discover

Another world

Tiffany Carroll returns to Tanna and finds a completely intact culture and a life changing experience for her kids. Staying at White Grass Ocean Resort, they discover the best of both worlds. 24 | Islandliving pacific

world. Tanna in Vanuatu is one of them.

ort Vila’s domestic airport terminal is a busy place, under renovation for what seems like 20 years to the locals, seating is limited, the bathrooms don’t always work and the check in for flights seems to take forever. But there’s energy about the place, people are excited and in typical Vanuatu style, no one is in a rush. Pilots walk through the terminal and out through security to the busy apron. A number of small aircraft are waiting to board or disembark and being a nervous flyer, I’m grateful to be flying Air Vanuatu with their comparatively luxurious and large ATR72 to Tanna. Lonely Planet says if you only visit one outer island in Vanuatu, it should be Tanna. They list the reasons why, starting with its famed accessible active volcano, Mount Yasur and go on to talk about village markets and cults who worship American military servicemen and even Prince Philip. It’s not my first trip to Tanna, but I’m returning with some less than intrepid travelers including three kids aged between seven and 15. The kids of course are excited to see the volcano, but I know there is more to Tanna than that. It’s raining when we land at White Grass airport and we’re rushed in to a waiting vehicle – our destination is straight over the mountains to the volcano. Sunset and sunrise are the times to see Yasur in all her beauty and with kids in tow, there’s no way we’re getting up at four am for the sunrise show. The 34km trip takes a good hour over some pretty rough roads. A new section has been sealed, however, so the journey time is much less than my first visit a few years ago. The excitement felt at the airport is tenfold as we drive across some of the most beautiful terrain in all of Vanuatu’s 83 islands. Village roads are cut out through jungles and every man, woman and child we pass waves excitedly at us. Our kids wave back from the back of the truk (ute); they’re wet as shags on rocks from the non-stop rain and couldn’t be happier. There is room inside the vehicle, but for city kids, where’s the fun in that? Eventually we arrive at the brand new Entani volcano visitor reception center. Three other truks are ready to head up the mountain so we quickly sign in and jump on the back of one of them. The rain is relentless and I fear Yasur wont put much of a show on tonight. Twenty minutes later, we’re standing on top of Yasur, staring in to the crater. It’s wet, windy, cold and cloudy but that doesn’t bother a single person there. This is a once in a lifetime event for most – standing on the crater of an active volcano and watching Mother Nature in all her fabulous fury. After 15 minutes or so, we’re getting quite cold and decide to head down to the car park. And just like that, the weather clears and all of a sudden the fireworks begin. The kids run back up to the crater and awe and sigh in amazement. Bomb after bomb of red-hot molten rock is thrown in to the sky and no one wants to leave. The local guides are patient; they’ve seen it all before, of

islandliving | 25 pacific

course. Tourists transfixed by the show, in no hurry to leave. Eventually we do and the trip home is in relative silence. We are simply lost for words. Arriving at White Grass Ocean Resort, our accommodation for the weekend is dream-like. An oasis of green gardens, brightly coloured bougainvillea flowers and a moonlit view of the Pacific Ocean. We’re staying in side-by-side bures, spacious and airy, there are no ceilings, rather exposed local hardwood beams, mosquito screens protect the bures. The walls are adorned with artwork from local artists, including work by the late Diana Tam. Tropical soft furnishing, a wellappointed open ensuite and cool ceramic tiling, the bures offer everything you need to relax. A recent addition to White Grass is the two bedroom, two ensuite, plantation-style villas which also include a kitchenette, dining area, lounge and large verandahs. Designed with

26 | Islandliving pacific

every creature comfort for a family of up to four, the new villas feature furniture crafted from local hardwood, designer soft furnishings, ceiling fans, ceramic tile floors, laundry facilities, Wi-Fi and more. White Grass Ocean Resort & Spa is home to the only PADI certified diving operation, Volcano Island Divers, on Tanna island. Local dive spots are renowned for their coral and lava formations, abundant marine life (including caverns, turtles, whales and dugong) and exceptional water quality. Within the resort there is direct access to reef edge snorkeling and inner reef pools. The kids are up early the next day exploring the shallow reef and excitedly return with tales of huge fish, starfish and crabs. A swimming pool, restaurant, pitch ‘n putt golf course, petanque field, guest library and massage hut all surround the main pavilion. Families, couples, explorers and the odd business traveller enjoy a buffet

PICTURES:Tullia Sands, Tiffany Carroll and WGOR.

There is more to Tanna than the volcano, the kastom village is an amazing experience for families and White Grass Ocean Resort offers

the perfect mix of all the creature comforts with local service.

continental breakfast or order from the a la carte menu. Staff offer tour tips and each has a favourite – the black magic village; the giant banyan tree; the blue cave. All share the same opinion – Yasur is just the beginning of your Tanna adventure. In recent years a few smaller resorts have popped up on Tanna, but White Grass has built a reputation for its service, creature comforts and fantastic dining. Food at White Grass is fresh, seasonal and sustainable. The restaurant serves seafood, including lobster, wahoo, yellow fin tuna, poulet, marlin and mahi mahi, pulled from the ocean in front of the resort. Fresh locally farmed prawns and Vanuatu beef are flown in several times each week. Local markets and growers supply organic vegetables, fruit and nuts grown in the island’s rich volcanic soil. White Grass chefs are local NiVanuatu people who are passionate about the local produce

and use their skills and expertise to create memorable meals every day. White Grass Ocean Resort & Spa provides guests with rare access to Tanna Island’s unique village culture and raw, once in a lifetime, adventure experiences. The resort has been designed in response to this, and provides a sanctuary of luxurious accommodation, first class service and idyllic surrounds to unwind in following a day hiking up a volcano or diving the blue cave. Our final day on Tanna we pile in to a local truk and head up the mountain again. This time our destination is an authentic kastom village. An hour or so later we arrive along a red mud path (road is too generous a term) and see local women and children come out from the jungle. The women are dressed traditionally, in leaf skirts, their upper bodies bare. Most of the children are naked, and they stare at our kids in amazement. Within one minute the most amazing thing happens. My son jumps down, smiles at the village kids and starts to play tag with them. The next thing, around 50 kids are chasing him through the jungle and we can no longer see them. I can hear Julien laughing and the kids shouting in their local language. The women check to see if I am okay and realising I’m fine, lead us to their home. Village life is extraordinary. Our guide explains the hierarchy of the village and we meet the chief. We seen how they grow and harvest coffee, learn about birthing huts, cooking huts and the nakamal – the main meeting area for the men. Every 10 minutes or so my son and his 50 followers run through the village, all screaming and laughing. It seems he is the pig and his new friends are the hunters. “Boy blong yu ia wan strong hed little bit,” the chief says. My son is a strong head – a little wild is the loose translation. We spend an hour at the village and are privileged to see a glimpse of their way of life and feel quite emotional and reflective. These people are completely subsistence living. They sell their coffee at the local market to purchase basic things such as poly pipe, but apart from that they live and survive off the land. The kids make their own toys out of local tree branches and the women do the lion’s share of the work – from raising the kids to cooking, cleaning and gardening. The Chief admits the men don’t do a lot. Yasur was awe-inspiring but seeing a traditional kastom village is the experience none of us will ever forget. The 15 year old girls don’t reach for their ipads that night, instead they want to be outside playing like the village kids and the realisation of what matters in life becomes evident. So close to the ‘real world’ Tanna should be on everyone’s bucket list – particularly those of us with kids that probably need to see how happy other kids are without social media and technology. White Grass Ocean Resort & Spa is located just 2km from Tanna Airport. Accommodation (including tropical breakfast) in the new family villas starts from around $400 AUD per night (VT42000 per night for a villa) For more information visit: www.whitegrasstanna.com •

islandliving | 27 pacific

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Rachel Gilbert Katinka Gown, $4,792 www.farfetch.com

Prices in AU$ unless otherwise specified.

Wedding day, wedding guest or just when you need to look your best. by Olivia Waugh.

Shooting Stars ring â&#x201A;Ź1,900 www.webshop.olelynggaard.com

Gucci rose lace gloves, $330 www.matchesfashion.com

Halfpenny London Turner skirt, $2370 www.modesens.com

Rosantica hair slides, $231 www.stylight.com.au

Temperley London sequin tulle robe, $2241 www.net-a-porter.com

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Alexander McQeen bowtie, $225 www.matchesfashion.com

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Men in Black

Larsson and Jennings watch, $456 www.matchesfashion.com

... and a few shades of grey and white for the big day.

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30 | Islandliving pacific

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Prices in AU$ unless otherwise specified.

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Balmain Embellished wool blazer $ 2,750 www.mytheresa.com

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Maria Black ring, $190 www.cultstatus.com.au

Valentino sneakers, $890 https://www.farfetch.com

Turnbull & Asser hankerchiefs six pack $95 www.therake.com

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Burberry tie, $276 /www.fwrd.com

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islandliving | 31 pacific

STYLE

Rachael Castle “Always Love” screen print, $320 www.castleandthings.com.au

Gucci chair, €2250 www.mytheresa.com

Gifts for those everything

who have

By Olivia Waugh

Gucci printed wallpaper, €310 www.mytheresa.com Carl Aubock paperweight, $232 www.matchesfashion.com

Electra espresso machine £1329 www.mrporter.com

32 | Islandliving pacific

Anthology Editions book, $415 www.modaoperandi.com

Lorenzi Milano tableware set $7,592 www.milanstyle.com

L’objet Gecko gold letter opener $209 www.petersofkensington.com.au L’Objet expresso set, $2032 www.matchesfashion.com

Anna Karlin decanter, $235 www.modaoperandi.com

Antique White Premium beach umbrella, $299.00 www.businessandpleasureco.com.au

Anissa Kermiche Love Handles Vase Noir £340.00 www.anissakermiche.com

Claus Porto Soap set, $94 www.modesens.com Cabana Hand Embroidered napkin, $190 www.modaoperandi.com

Versace bedspread, $2571 www.matchesfashion.com

Gucci incense sticks, $105 www.gucci.com

Celestron telescope, £458 www.mrporter.com

islandliving | 33 pacific

B E A UTY S POT

Cosmetic Gains n i a p t u o h t i W

Science is now delivering any number of cosmetic treatments which are non invasive and relatively pain-free and far less time consuming than a surgical procedure. Georgie Gordon road tests and recommends.

lthough the number of people undergoing cosmetic plastic surgery procedures continues to rise, other less-invasive treatments are still the preferred option for many, particularly those who fear going under the knife in the name of beauty. Here we take a look at the latest cosmetic innovations delivering game changing results, many of which can be done in a lunch hour with minimal to no side effects.

Cryotherapy

This always brings to mind sci-fi movies where people are frozen to be brought back in the future, however, weight loss rather than eternal youth is the aim here. Cryotherapy was originally used by athletes for pain relief and to speed up recovery time although once it was discovered that the benefits included shrinking fat, it was quickly adopted by the beauty business. The most popular form of cryotherapy for weight loss involves entering a booth of sub zero temperatures (minus 90c) for three to five minutes. It works by stimulating the blood cells and tricking the body into burning calories. Under monitored conditions the treatment is thought to be safe for everyone other than pregnant women, children and those with high blood pressure.

Mesotherapy

Mesotherapy entails delivering a formulation directly under the skin to target specific problems. Very fine needles are used for a series of injections into the middle (meso in Greek) layer of skin, substances include vitamins, amino acids, enzymes,

34 | Islandliving pacific

plant extracts and even hormones. Mesotherapy is most commonly used to treat fine lines as plumping and hydrating the tissue under the skin causes surface lines to soften.

Cool Sculpting

Images brought to mind here of someone carving a sculpture from ice once again have no bearing on the actual process. Instead, this fairly new procedure involves the freezing of fat

cells with a special device. The cold temperature damages the cells which are then removed naturally by the body. It is considered a much safer, not to mention less intrusive, alternative procedure to liposuction.

Non-surgical nose job

It’s amazing what skilled hands with a dermal needle can achieve these days. Where once Botox and fillers were used to eradicate wrinkles and fill in deep lines, the treatments are now also used to re-sculpt the face as an alternative to going under the scalpel. A straight nose, for example, can be a reality with just a few expertly placed dermal filler injections.

Treatment road test

HIFU: High Intensity Focused Ultrasound HIFU is a relatively new treatment that been touted as an effective and non-invasive ‘face-lift’. It works by delivering heat energy to the skin and the tissue below the skin to stimulate collagen renewal, thereby improving the skin’s texture and reduce sagging. My only experience with ultra-sounds has been for keeping track of growing babies, I wasn’t sure what to expect when entering Elite Body Contouring’s serene clinic in Sydney. Quickly put at ease by the impossibly big smile of my therapist, after filling out a quick info sheet I was whisked into a room for my before shot. Although the benefits of High Intensity Focused Ultrasound take a few weeks to kick in a slight tightening of the skin can be noticeable straight after treatment. My therapist begins by marking out sections on my face and neck and applying a gel. For each section she does a pain test as the device is placed against the skin, I opt for the highest setting because no pain, no gain, but really I would describe the tingly sting as discomfort rather than pain, keeping in mind everyone has a different threshold. Side effects can include redness or swelling but I didn’t experience either. The treatment takes about an hour for face and neck and lying under warm towels with my therapist’s expert hands working away and the slight buzz of the machine was not unpleasant at all. Follow-up treatments are recommended depending on level of elasticity of the skin. I choose to head back after five weeks as I’m keen to get the maximum effects. However, by this time my skin is markedly improved. I, and my partner, notice that I look fresher overall, however, it is my jawline that I most thrilled about. Where there was a slackness to the skin, and the definite beginnings of dreaded jowls, my skin is tauter and more supple. I would highly recommend this treatment for people that have sun damaged skin or those that want to see some wrinkle reduction and a tightening of the skin. The treatment is not recommended for older candidates with severe sagging and wrinkles.•

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H E A LTH Y LIV IN G

s s o l t h g i healthy we

The Fast 800 diet Georgie Gordon reports that this diet, if followed correctly should leave you feeling alert and in a good mood during the day, as well as improving liver function and helping with the prevention of metabolic diseases … and you’ll lose weight.

he latest diet from Dr Michael Mosley, the man who gave the world the hugely popular 5:2 diet, is no fad. A combination of Mosely’s 5:2 intermittent fasting program – under which you reduce your calorie intake to just 500-600 calories (2000 – 2500 kilojoules) per day for two days and eat normally for the other five; and the Mediterranean diet – eating low carb food and plenty of fish, nuts, olive oil and vegetables, the Fast 800 diet is so called because it involves eating only 800 calories a day. Promising rapid weight loss, and importantly, that the weight stays off, the premise is that you start off the initial period (usually two weeks) by eating only 800 calories (equivalent to roughly 3350 kilojoules) a day, then you start following the 5:2 program and throughout both phases you eat food recommended in the Mediterranean diet. Rapid weight loss has had a bad rap, mainly due to fad diets executed poorly (cayenne pepper diet, anyone?), however, evidence of the benefits of losing weight quickly is mounting, provided you have an adequate intake of protein, fibre and essential nutrients. Not only that, rapid weight loss is very motivating, people are more likely to continue on the program if they see noticeable results, quickly.

The three prong approach

Since intermittent fasting became popular (Mosley invented the 5:2 diet in 2012 after being diagnosed with type 2 diabetes) a serious amount of research has gone into low energy dieting and the common consensus from studies conducted all over the world, from Oxford to Newcastle University, is that it is an effective weight loss method. Further studies also show that people find it easier to stick to 800 calories (rather than the 500-600 recommended in the 5:2 diet) and surprisingly still get the same weight loss and metabolic advantages. Health authorities are behind the diet because rather than starving yourself like most rapid weight loss diets you are still eating a healthy balanced diet, you are just eating a lot less of it. In fact, the experts are putting valuable research money into it, the NHS (UK health system) is planning to test the 800

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calorie diet on 5000 people as a fix for type 2 diabetes. The University of Sydney has conducted a similar trial on women with obesity, with results to be published soon. The Fast 800 diet is essentially a three pronged approach: A 800 calorie daily intake for at least two weeks; followed by the 5:2 diet; and then the Mediterranean diet with increased exercise to maintain the weight loss.

What does 800 calories look like?

Eating lower-carb, high (good) fat meals packed with essential nutrients, protein and fibre will not only make you feel full for longer it will kick start weight loss and improve blood sugar levels. A typical day may see you eat an omelette for breakfast, a salad packed with vegetables and nuts for lunch and small piece of meat with salad for dinner, and yoghurt with berries for a snack. Portion control is key and there are many plans available online to keep you on track.

Time-restricted eating

Mosley also recommends that you extend the overnight fast for at least 12 hours by eating dinner early and breakfast as late you can. The science behind this states that by giving the body a break from eating and digesting you unlock powerful repair pathways that protect against illness and obesity. Eating nutritious and filling food helps to prolong the fasting period as well as ensuring there is a plentiful supply of antioxidants, vitamins and minerals to boost the repair pathways. It is also a good idea to include probiotics to optimise your gut microbiome. Followed correctly this diet and protocol should leave you feeling alert and in a good mood during the day, as well as improving liver function and helping with the prevention of metabolic diseases.

The 5:2

After you’ve completed the initial weight loss period you transition to two days of fasting (on limited calories) per week.

Candidates suggest that this part of the diet feels easy after the first phase as weight continues to be lost. Keep in mind that throughout a healthy Mediterranean diet is recommended.

The Mediterranean diet

This diet is based on peasant-style food eaten by the populations of Greece, Spain and Southern Italy that experience less coronary heart disease, cholesterol and lower incidences of cancer, Alzheimer’s disease and Parkinson’s

disease. It includes: an abundance of fresh seasonal vegetables; legumes such as chickpeas and lentils; whole grains including barley, wheat and farro; seafood, especially oily fish like salmon; lots of olive oil; small amounts of natural dairy products including full cream milk, cheese and yoghurt; and thankfully small quantities of red wine (antioxidants!) are allowed as is natural sugar in the form of fruit and honey. For more information visit thefast800.com •

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W E D D I N G SPE CIAL

The Ultimate Wedding Guide ific

c a P h t u in the So

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen it all when it comes to the perfect destination for your South Pacific wedding, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something for everyone.

Breakas, Vanuatu Breakas Beach Resort is an intimate tropical retreat, a short drive from Port Vila town it is one of the only beach front properties close to the hustle and bustle and huge array of things to do and places to eat. Breakas has to be the ultimate ‘feet in the sand’ beach getaway, enhanced by the natural beauty of a private cove on Pango peninsular, Breakas provides an unrivalled backdrop in Port Vila. This award winning resort boasts an absolutely stunning 22-metre infinity pool which blends with the horizon of the Pacific Ocean, easily move from pool to beach and dive in to the tropical, warm waters only metres away. When it comes to celebrating your wedding day, Breakas has created some fantastic wedding packages, these range from an intimate exchange of vows on the beach at sunset to a full extravagant affair with wedding and reception taken care of. Breakas is the perfect venue for celebration; breathtaking views, unforgettable experiences, spectacular sunsets, Champagne, traditional warrior dancing and exotic locales lend themselves to creating the most magical wonderland for your perfect wedding day. Unpretentious but eco-cool, the stand-alone fares for accommodation options salute the tropical climate with cross-ventilation timber louvres, open air coral bathrooms and traditional natangora ceilings. The ‘feet in the sand’ ethos reflects all aspects of your holiday, celebrating the art of tropical living, relaxation and pleasure. To get married at Breakas means lasting memories of a beautiful location, beautiful people and the perfect way to spend the biggest day of your life. Visit them at www.breakas.com for more info.

WE D D ING SP EC IAL F I J I Likuliku Lagoon Resort Likuliku Lagoon Resort remains synonymous with all things luxury in Fiji, this beautiful haven of pure paradise is the first and remains the only resort in Fiji with authentic over water bures, the natural ocean lagoon is surrounded by a marine sanctuary that is reserved for guests in residence to immerse themselves in, this pristine environment is a true magical sanctuary. This is Fiji’s unique luxury escape for couples, in 2018 the resort secured the lease of Mociu Island (pronounced ‘Moor-thiew). This tiny, private, uninhabited island is only a 15 minute boat ride from the resort, Mociu is a protected nature reserve and the stunning waters and reef that surround it have been declared a marine sanctuary ‘na tabu’ by the Paramount Chief of the Mamanucas. Mociu Island is for the enjoyment of Ahura Resorts’ guests (this includes Malolo Island Fiji) only. There are options available for couples to enjoy this incredible island experience, guided snorkelling adventures to explore the abundant marine life and exquisitely colourful coral gardens, snorkel directly from the beach or from the other side of the island. If getting a sweat up is on the agenda then leave early morning for a hike to enjoy a perfect Fijian sunrise (a perfect setting for a proposal), enjoy a picnic to follow on the beach. Daytime trips can also be planned, let the team take care of absolutely everything, lounge on the beach or go exploring to come back to a picnic lunch washed down with some bubbly, it’s the perfect setting for a proposal or to enjoy your honeymoon. Mociu Island is blissful, beautiful, private and romantic. Any special occasion can be customised to accommodate couples, each special need or individual wish can be catered for. Visit them at www.likulikulagoon.com for more information.

Bula Bride When it comes to all you need to know about getting married in Fiji look no further than Bula Bride, this Fiji Destination Wedding website was designed to assist in helping create a dream wedding, elopement or honeymoon in Fiji. Destination weddings have so many advantages, palm trees and golden sand but mainly it’s about getting away with friends and family, however the getaway can come with challenges. Bula Bride makes planning a Fiji wedding just that little bit easier, whether it’s just starting the planning process or getting close to the big day, Bula Bride has a tonne of resources to keep everyone informed and inspired. The Wedding Directory will have you covered for every need or whim to inspire you when planning your wedding day. Fiji’s best wedding suppliers are all listed online ensuring the crème de la crème are there to choose from to help bring the day to life. There is also an option to browse through recent ‘Real Fiji Weddings’ for Fiji wedding inspiration. Real Weddings showcases weddings from around the Fiji Islands, with stunning photography and personal tips from brides. Happy Fiji wedding planning! www.bulabride.com

AHU2132 -IT

Fiji’s first and only authentic over-water bures. Luxury. A special place in a magical location for adults only. Proudly Fijian owned and traditionally designed amidst a pristine and protected natural environment, surrounded by azure ocean. For reservations and information visit www.likulikulagoon.com or Telephone +(679) 672 0978 Email: likulikures1@ahuraresorts.com

Stay 7 nights and receive free helicopter, seaplane or private speedboat transfers*. Or between November and March, stay 5 nights and receive a sixth night FREE. From AUD $620pp* per night including all meals. Conditions apply. Approx rates only – check daily FOREX rates.

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WE D D ING SP EC IAL F I J I

Tokoriki Island Resort Tokoriki Island Resort has consistently been voted Fiji’s number one resort, if you have stayed, you will understand why. This luxury, boutique island resort comprising eight Beachfront Bures,18 Beachfront Pool Bures and 10 Beachfront Pool Villas is a standout when it comes to all things style, luxury and indulgence. Tokoriki Island Resort is famous for being the most romantic resort in Fiji and is the current TripAdvisor #1 Resort for Romance. The resort is child-free allowing the environment to provide peace and quiet

for couples to escape, relax, reconnect and enjoy everything that this beautiful resort has to offer. Tokoriki is perfect for honeymoons, anniversaries, renewal of vows, proposals and elopements, it’s not a wedding venue for large groups and this makes it a standout when it comes to all that is boutique and bespoke. The resort itself has been cleverly designed down to the smallest detail, it’s stylish and fuses contemporary and Fijian style, the bures are all freestanding, airconditioned and with unique tropical outdoor showers surrounded by lush landscaped gardens. Tokoriki Island Resort offers barefoot beach weddings, traditional chapel ceremonies or for the ultimate in privacy on the deck of your beachfront pool villa – the choice is yours. Wedding and elopement packages ensure a truly memorable wedding day at Tokoriki Island Resort. If you’re not at the aisle stage yet then choose from endless locations to pop the question! An island beach picnic, romantic oceanfront dinner on the jetty, in the privacy of a bure or villa at sunset to name a few. The Romance Co-ordinator can deliver the most amazing day to be remembered forever. Visit them at www.tokoriki.com for more info and a guarantee that you wont visit just once.

Fiji’s highest rated luxury resort. Tokoriki Island Resort is famous for being the most romantic resort in Fiji and is the current TripAdvisor #1 Resort for Romance. Our child-free environment provides peace and quiet for couples to escape and reconnect. Perfect for honeymoons, anniversaries, renewal of vows, proposals & elopements. Visit tokoriki.com

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Special Offer Book a 5 night stay and receive a complimentary Chapel Elopement or Renewal of Vows valued at FJ$2200 Offer Code TOKELOPE19 +679 672 5927 reservations@tokoriki.com

W E DDI NG S P E CI A L VA NU ATU Tamanu On The Beach Peaceful, private, romantic and secluded, Tamanu on the Beach Resort and Spa is located on its own private white sand beach, where you feel a million miles away from reality but just 20 mins from Port Vila, Vanuatu. This five-star resort is the perfect combination of elegance, luxury and relaxed tropical beach atmosphere. You have the option of getting married in Vanuatu’s only purpose-built wedding chapel, right on the beach, or kick off your shoes and have the ceremony on the powdery white sand. Wedding planners are based in both Australia and Vanuatu to make planning as easy as possible. The top-rated restaurant is regarded as amongst the best in the region and offers a Pacific cuisine using only the freshest local produce. The accommodation is simply stunning, with airy bures, plunge pools and tasteful decor. It epitomises understated elegance. For more see www. tamanuonthebeach.com

Vanuatu’s ONLY Beachfront Wedding Chapel 3km of Pristine White Sand Beach Vanuatu’s Best Dining Dedicated Wedding Specialists 5 STAR Accommodation Discounted Accommodation for Wedding Groups Family/Child friendly

VANUATU’S STYLE OF ROMANCE At Tamanu on the Beach Resort and Spa, our team can’t wait to make your wedding day an unforgettable celebration of love. Our pristine beach, chapel or beachside restaurant locations provide the perfect setting for your special day. From small intimate weddings to grand celebrations, our experienced team will weave their magic to make your dream wedding come true.

weddings@tamanuonthebeach.com | www.tamanuonthebeach.com

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WE D D ING SP EC IAL VA NU AT U

Eratap Beach Resort

Villa 25 Vanuatu is recognised as one of the best island destinations in the South Pacific and Villa 25 (right) offers the ultimate setting for luxury villas in Vanuatu, bathed by azure skies on the aquamarine waters of the South Pacific Ocean. The privacy, spectacular location and understated luxury make Villa 25 the ideal place for a romantic and intimate wedding or honeymoon. Conveniently located 20 minutes from the airport and five minutes from town in a private gated estate, Villa 25 is the perfect destination for both exclusivity and privacy. The property is set on its own private beach with three luxuriously appointed two-bedroom, air conditioned villas, designed to maximise both privacy and views, and fitted out and decorated to the highest standard. Each villa includes a fully equipped kitchen and private covered patio with sun loungers and dining area. The cooking facilities in the villas give you the option to purchase the abundant local produce – be it French cheeses, organic beef, fresh fish or seasonal tropical fruits from the market. Or if preferred, Villa 25 can arrange to have a private chef prepare gourmet cuisine for you or organise catering to be prepared and delivered to your villa. A provisioning service is also available. The poolside Lowana (gathering place) is just a few metres from the water’s edge overlooking a private sheltered beach. The perfect setting in which to kayak, paddleboard or snorkel amongst abundant coral and tropical fish, directly in front of your accommodation. Villa 25’s proficient manager and staff will look after your every need and provide local knowledge on everything from supermarkets to scenic flights, organise yoga, massages and beauty treatments by the pool or in the privacy of your own villa. Email: relax@villa25.vu

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Eratap Beach Resort (left) has stayed true to it’s boutique style, this beautiful resort is authentic, stylish and superbly uncrowded as they keep their focus on keeping guest numbers low to ensure all who visit are taken on a unique holiday experience that has a limited impact on the natural environment. A resort with a conscience and a desire to show you what luxury is really all about. Eratap is the perfect place to unwind, explore and enjoy all that Vanuatu has to offer, it’s the perfect place to spend your honeymoon, privacy and luxury at the forefront of this resort mean that any time spent here as newlyweds is absolute perfection. Eratap has two Honeymoon Villas and it is hard to imagine a more romantic setting. Villa 11 has stunning Eworentpat beach a few steps from your bedroom and Etlau lagoon spreads out from the lounge room window this honeymoon villa is quite simply, beautiful. With it’ stunning waterfront plunge pool, couples can enjoy total privacy in an idyllic setting, the king sized bed just metres from the white sand beach. Waves roll perfectly along the fringing outer reef or you can snorkel through the purple tipped staghorn coral just a few strokes from the lounge room. Villa 12 is in a stunning location overlooking Etlau Lagoon. With a private plunge pool and lounge pavilion set on the water’s edge, couples can enjoy complete privacy in this tranquil and picturesque setting. Swim out from the villa into the calm lagoon waters, or share romantic meals in the outdoor thatched pavilion. See www.eratap.com for more info on the villas.

Warwick Le Lagon Warwick Le Lagon in Vanuatu has long been known as a vibrant, five-star family-friendly luxury resort located on the shores of Erakor Lagoon in Port Vila. A quick five-minute drive from Port Vila town means visitors can enjoy the busy surroundings, but also a quiet escape to return to means the balance of both is there to enjoy. Pampering and personalised service permeate every aspect of your stay. Choose from luxurious rooms with garden or lagoon views, standalone bungalows or exclusive villas on the lagoon. Featuring a variety of restaurants and bars as well as a large conference centre and onsite meeting rooms, Warwick Le Lagon – Vanuatu is the perfect location for your next event. And, of course, it’s a dream venue for unforgettable destination weddings and honeymoons.

Whether it’s the Overwater Deck for a stunning backdrop to celebrate the wedding of your dreams or the Warwick Beach Terrace offering various locations for a tropical feetin-the-sand, beach wedding. This resort is an idyllic place to exchange vows – whether in the early morning sunrise, during the afternoon with the water glistening or enjoying the incredible sunset over the horizon. In fact select any scenic location amongst the 75 acres of lush tropical gardens with the sweet-smelling native gingers and frangipani to ensure your celebration could not be topped. Warwick Le Lagon has of variety of wedding packages available, some including complimentary upgrades and a vast array of options to suit small elopements to larger weddings. Head to www.warwickhotels.com/warwick-le-lagon-vanuatu for more information.

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WE D D ING SP EC IAL F I J I Hideaway Resort Vuda The iconic Fiji Hideaway Resort & Spa on the Coral Coast is renowned for its weddings, and now has a stunning sister property. Hideaway Resort Vuda opened in November 2018, this boutique beachfront luxury resort is located in the picturesque Vuda area , just 20 minutes from Nadi International Airport and close to Vuda Point Marina which allows you to access Fiji’s outer islands. Hideaway Resort Vuda offers personalised and friendly Fijian service that guests have been accustomed to at their Coral Coast property. The ideal luxury beachfront setting has been designed specifically to cater for weddings and honeymoon escapes to ensure couples begin their life together in perfect beachfront, tropical style. A dedicated wedding co-ordinator and a team of experts ensure your special day is perfect in every way. Fiji Hideaway Resort & Spa, Vuda offers a choice of three venues – The Deck, The Beachfront Wedding Chapel or on the beach with sweeping ocean views. The resort’s private beachfront location is ideally suited to for tying the knot. Email: weddings@hideaway.com.fj or visit www.hideawayfiji.com

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Totoka Hair Salon ‘Totoka’ means ‘Beautiful’ in Fijian, which is central to the experience that Totoka Hair & Makeup create for their clients, if you follow them on Instagram and trawl through the beautiful transformations it’s clear to see why they are so popular. Totoka is the leading provider of hair and make up services in Fiji and has built an enviable reputation for providing high quality work at a reasonable price. Client satisfaction is incredibly high thanks to a team commitment to high quality work, regular training workshops and encouragement of the team to be the best in the industry. Totoka Hair Salon is based just five minutes from Denarau and caters for both a local and international clientele, offering international services with qualified salon stylists and beauty

therapists. In addition their stylists offer mobile hair and make up services all over Fiji ensuring they can get to you wherever you are in the country. Totoka stylists are experts in their field and ensure clients look and feel gorgeous for their wedding day. Manicures, pedicures, spray tans and massage providing a complete range of pre-wedding pampering for any bride to be. Both their salon stylists and wedding stylists are highly sought after by local and international clientele and recognised as some of the best in the industry, with their CV’s including experience in weddings, photographic shoots, film and television work, Fiji Fashion Week and more. Check them out at www.totokahairfiji.com or follow them on Instagram @ totokahairfiji

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WE D D ING SP EC IAL F I J I

Captain Cook Cruises Captain Cook Cruises in Fiji has recently released their new wedding packages, with many options for marrying the love of your life in the romantic paradise that is Fiji. If it’s a wedding at sea or perhaps in a remote Fijian Village or on a magical private island, Captain Cook Cruises Fiji can make it happen with their new offerings that will take you off the beaten track to a day that you will never forget. Get aboard the Reef Endeavour with the Wedding Package Cruise and experience the beautiful islands of Fiji on Captain Cook Cruises three, four, seven or 11-night cruises for the wedding of your dreams. Be married with the sun setting in the background onboard the MV Reef Endeavour, or on any deserted white sandy beach or at an authentic Fijian village. The options are endless. The package includes a dedicated wedding planner to ﬁnalise the wedding license and ensure the wedding is perfect; a marriage ceremony performed by a celebrant during your cruise onboard Reef Endeavour. Singers, bouquet and groom’s buttonhole can be included along with some bubbly and wedding cake. Just arrive and it’s all taken care of. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji is offering a Reef Endeavour Wedding Group Bonus – cruise up to seven nights with 15 or more family and friends and receive a wedding package for half price or bring 30 guests or more and the bride cruises for free. There are plenty of options for large and small groups, catamarans, private islands and honeymoon packages too, so many ways to make sure if it’s just two or a large group Captain Cook will have what suits your needs. For further information and bookings visit: www.captaincookcruisesfiji.com

W E DDI NG S P E CI A L S A M O A

PICTURES: Manumailagi Events Samoa.

Taumeasina Weddings Taumeasina Island Resort, Samoa is an established luxury resort with beautiful sweeping views situated on an exclusive island just outside of the capital, Apia. With 80 hotel rooms and a mix of two and three-bedroom self-contained villas, Taumeasina is the only island resort in Samoa with such a huge range of accommodation options. It’s easy to see why so many choose this idyllic spot to spend their wedding day. Choose from a barefoot beach wedding as the waves kiss the sand, or a customary chapel ceremony at the Vasa wedding venue located on the point with stunning ocean views, or tie the knot among the lush gardens. Taumeasina has a dedicated wedding co-ordinator who attends to every detail – it’s the small things that count and always add to making the big day as seamless and fun as couples need it to be. The perfect place to honeymoon, as well as your destination wedding venue, unwind after the big day and take the time to relax and enjoy some time with your loved ones. Taumeasina will help you indulge yourselves with breakfast in bed daily, couples’ treatments at Fofo Spa & Sauna, private beaches, three world-class restaurants to dine at and share romantic sunset drinks each day of your holiday. It’s the full package, Samoa is fun, beautiful and filled with great places to eat, play and relax. Everything needed to book and plan can be found at their website www.taumeasinaislandresortsamoa.com

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F ITN E S S

Fun waysfitto ness y a d i l o h

Staying fit on holidays needn’t be a chore, Lauren Jagger suggests all sorts of fun activities to keep you trim and taut while enjoying the Pacific’s attractions.

hen people think of holidaying in the Pacific Islands they think of relaxing, unwinding and switching off from the outside world. What if we told you that awaiting you was everything you had read about and a whole lot more. The Pacific is the new destination for adrenalin and a world of fun packed days and adventure. Bulalicious is an

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activewear company specialising in female surf, swim and gym wear based in the Fijian Islands and with our first hand experience of everything active we have a go-to guide on the activities and experiences that will allow you to keep that amazing beach body you’ve worked so hard to achieve over the last few months and still allow you to finish your holiday

feeling rejuvenated and relaxed once you return home. Unwinding doesn’t have to mean lying on a beach and sipping cocktails all day long, although we would advise taking a stroll and feeling that golden sand beneath your toes as this will definitely be something that you are going to want to experience. Escaping from the mundane 9-5 routine is exactly what you need and our team have the guide that promises to get your blood pumping and your heart racing and bring that fun and active element into your holiday.

Throw on your snorkel and flippers and explore the real joys of island life. Being surrounded by water means that there are an abundance of water sports for you to enjoy and activities such as a jet ski experience will ensure you experience nothing but sun, sea and sand for as far as the eye can see. Tick this off your bucket list and create your own waves as you tour the crystal waters of the South Pacific Ocean. Or why not try kayaking? This is a full body work out and from the minute you step into your kayak you will feel yourself engaging your core muscles, legs and hip flexors in order to balance your weight in the kayak. In order to move around you will use a paddle which requires the use of your upper back, shoulders and arms and is a great way to sculpt and tone that upper body whilst working against the resistance of the water. Kayaking is a great activity if you are a novice or a professional - after 30 minutes you will ask yourself “why haven't I done this sooner?” • It’s a great way to get around the islands and observe the magnificent coral which is situated beneath your boat and if you’re lucky you may have the pleasure to meet a passing sea turtle. • Kayaking is a great way of reducing stress as you can go at your own leisurely pace or challenge your friends to a relay around the sandbanks and it is a great activity to take part in that doesn’t require heavy music or gym equipment to get you motivated. It’s just you, your kayak and the open water, which means you are getting to be one with nature and thinking of anything but work or real life. Be sure to apply plenty of sunscreen, as much as vitamin D is good for us, our body only requires it in small bursts and this will ensure your skin keeps that youthful glow or throw on a rashie for that extra bit of protection. If swimming is your go to activity then what better way to experience the islands than in the underwater world where the real beauty lies. Grab a snorkel, mask and flippers and free dive amongst the different species of corals and watch nature take its course. See if you can spot some of our favourite blue starfish, they are a definite snap if you have an underwater camera, but remember to only take home memories and do not touch or kick the coral or fish, as many are endemic to the region and we want to keep the islands just as beautiful as you found them. Probably the most obvious way to keep fit in the tropics is simply by swimming which as we know is a terrific way to exercise many muscles in the gentle buoyancy of either the pool or a lagoon. While in the water it may seem odd, but we often forget to hydrate as we often feel cool from being surrounded by so much water. The saltiness of the sea water and the sun will quickly dehydrate you so be sure to carry a bottle of water around with you and in the hot seasons we recommend at least two to three litres per day. Enjoy your new holiday fitness regime and don’t forget the sunset cocktails! www.bulalicious.com (Free shipping worldwide)•

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D E S T IN ATION G UIDE

Your

Portal to the Pacific From the Marshalls to the Mamanucas, to Santo sunsets, all the stuff you need to know across the region.

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D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U

Hats off tonVanuatu the world

o e k a t s r e v Wea

Millinery magic with a royal twist. The Pacific Brim success story. By Alex Bertoli.

A sustainable eco-experience for the whole family, set in a stunning tropical paradise

Join us for the Eden Experience, Port Vila | Contact +678 7710765

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PICTURES: xxxxxxxxxxxx

veryone loves a ‘feel good’ story. And this is up there with the best of them. In fact, if it wasn’t true, you’d be hard pressed to make up such an unlikely but perfect confluence of events. So how exactly did a group of traditional women weavers in Vanuatu link up with an internationally renowned hat maker to create a brand of Vanuatu hats now being exported throughout the world? Essentially, this is a modern day fairy tale with a royal twist, thanks to Prince Charles purchasing a beautifully woven pandanus hat for his wife Camilla to wear during their recent visit to Vanuatu. But more on this later. The story begins in 2015, when Australian milliner, Rosie Boylan, visits the island of Espiritu Santo and connects with local weavers from the islands of Malo and Espiritu Santo. She is stunned by the weaving expertise of the women, who are adept at making bags, baskets and mats from coconut and pandanus leaves and who have inherited their skills as part of a rich and living culture spanning thousands of

The story begins in 2015, when Australian milliner, Rosie Boylan, visits the island of Espiritu Santo and connects with local weavers from the islands of Malo and Espiritu Santo.

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D E ST INAT IO N VAN UAT U years of Vanuatu history. Now keep in mind Boylan is no ordinary hat maker. In addition to being a highly respected craftswomen with 35 years’ experience in the industry, her bespoke hats have featured in several Hollywood movies, including Moulin Rouge, Australia, The Piano, Peter Pan and The Great Gatsby, as well as in major theatre productions like The King and I, Phantom of the Opera and Love Never Dies. Cate Blanchett is a fan (which is interesting, as Cate is also a well known Vanuatu investor and supporter!). Boylan immediately recognises the potential for creating a new craft hub in Santo and the women bond out of a mutual respect for their craft. They begin exploring the possibilities of translating their weaving skills into making quality headwear for a global market. As luck would have it, the group attracts the attention the Sanma Skills Centre, run by the Vanuatu Ministry of Education and Training and supported by the Australian Government through the Vanuatu Skills Partnership. They engage Boylan as one of their industry coaches. Working as a team with respected community leader, Janet Sine, the duo develop new hat making tools, purchase specialised hat-making equipment and begin to train and coach the women in hat weaving. They quickly take the group’s skills and production output to a whole new level, and under Boylan’s Pacific Brim label, the hats are further enhanced with quality finishings designed to appeal to an international market. And here’s where the fairy tale aspect comes into it. Because you see, even with the best of intentions and a feel good story woven into every hat, sometimes political, cultural and economic interests intervene to unravel the potential of a wonderful project. But not this time. This time the stars align and Sanma style hats begin spreading their brims beyond the island’s borders, first to shops like Haus Blo Handicrafts in Port Vila and then overseas. This is thanks, in no small part, to the Vanuatu Government’s commitment to promoting a ‘Made in Vanuatu’ brand and Boylan’s extensive expertise and industry connections. In fact, Vanuatu’s Sanma-style hats can now be found in shops as far away as Japan and New Zealand and gracing the windows of prestigious hat stores in Sydney’s Strand Arcade as well as in Newtown. Custom made options are also being sought after by bespoke clients peppered throughout the world via Pacific Brim’s on-line shop.

Vanuatu’s Sanma-style hats can now be found in shops as far away as Japan and New Zealand and gracing the windows of prestigious hat stores in Sydney’s Strand Arcade.

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Best of all, in true fairy tale style, the success of the project both overseas and locally is having a magical, transformative effect back on Santo. The women’s groups are becoming increasingly confident in both their weaving and business skills. They are discovering economic empowerment and spreading the message throughout their communities that locally made handicrafts have value and can be both sustainable and profitable. As for Rosie Boylan, she is over the moon with the progress of the Skills Centre ‘Sanma-style’ hat hub. “This story is not about me. It’s about the local weavers, their cultural heritage and the remarkable network that is supporting and empowering them. Our vision is for the women to own their own businesses and ultimately be selling their handicrafts locally, nationally and internationally with fair trade principles in place.” Which brings us back to that beautiful hat Prince Charles buys Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, during their visit to Vanuatu in April 2018. The hat is a product of another women’s group mentored by Boylan and based in Port Vila (appropriately called WEAV). And sure, in the perfect fairy tale ending a hat would be worn by a princess and it would save her from a fate worse than death (or perhaps help her catch the eye of her one true love). But in the real world a Prince and a Duchess helping to promote sustainability and empowerment in a tiny Pacific island nation is as close to a happy ending as you can get!•

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

This is an adventure which combines remote diving, amazing culture, a top notch crew, great food and a comfortable dive boat.

Sites Unseen ! r o f e v i To d W

hen I began dreaming about a dive trip to the South Pacific, I thought of images of calm clear waters, endless visibility and uninhabited desert islands. My recent trip onboard the Solomons PNG Master did not disappoint. We began our journey in a small village town in the Western Province of Solomon Islands, aptly nick named Magical Munda. We were met at the airport by the local dive

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staff who bundled up our luggage in a taxi and we walked down the hill to our home for the first three days at Agnes Gateway Hotel. We dived with Dive Munda for the first three days and it was out of this world. I am not sure if my favourite site was Shark Point which had loads of sharks and a huge swarm of fighting titan triggerfish on display or maybe it was the Kashi Maru – an old WWII Japanese ship sunk in a tiny

PICTURES: Kevin Green

Shannon Kozak marvels at the extraordinary dive sites found on a recent trip to the Solomons and Papua New Guinea, some of which had never been visited before, Captain Kevin Green captured these images whilst on board. the Solomons PNG Navigator.

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

“Our evenings were spent on the deck at the hotel enjoying a drink and the fabulous sunset every night”.

harbour with thousands of glassfish and some of the weirdest nudibranchs I have ever seen. We were also lucky enough to take a tour out to Skull Island – a tiny little island about 30 minutes away which is the home to about 40 or 50 skulls of local ancestors. Our guide Billy, told of stories of the mighty magic that exists on the island and of the fishing god, that he continues to visit prior to heading out to cast his luck and fish for food for his family. Our evenings were spent on the deck at the hotel enjoying a drink and the fabulous sunset every night. With such an awesome start to the trip, our expectations were high for the next portion of the journey – a trip from Munda, Solomon Islands up to Rabaul, Papua New Guinea on the Solomons PNG Navigator. We thought we were in a small remote village in Munda, but we really had no idea what

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remote was! As we cruised north, small villages dotted the islands but they became fewer and fewer until soon – there was no one. We were truly the only people for hundreds of kilometers. The highlight for me in the Solomons was a site called Sultan’s Fans up in the Shortland Islands. These small islands have lots of tidal movement in the water which means high nutrients and big gorgeous coral life. Gorgonian fans the size of small cars dotted the walls and reef fish galore darted up and down the wall. We only spent two days diving this area, but I could have easily done a 10-day trip just here. Halfway through the trip, we crossed the border into Papua New Guinea and again, we took an even bigger step back in time. According to our guides, there has never been a commercial dive operator in this area of PNG. So most

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

The ship’s captain Kevin Green (left) captured these photos on the Solomons / PNG trip.

of the sites we were diving were truly exploratory – we were the first people ever to dive in most of these locations. With exploratory diving, there is always a risk that the diving might not deliver and for sure, we had a couple of dives that were good but not amazing. But, on the other hand, we got to explore some sites that were extraordinary in particular, the Carteret Islands 90km east of Bougainville. This atoll has less than 1000 local inhabitants and our arrival was cause for celebration. The chief told us it had been almost five years since they had had any outside visitors to the island. We had brought some school supplies with us and they were warmly received by the local villagers as was our gift of used reading glasses and fishing lures. Sadly, this low level island is at risk due to climate change and relocation of the villagers has already commenced. The Carteret population has been identified as the world’s first environmental refugees. The diving here was beyond anything I had imagined … sharky clear waters with big schools of trevally and unicorn

fish, huge wide angle vistas and on the wall, the tiniest macro life everywhere you looked. This area was really a photographer’s dream. Originally, I had selected this trip because of the destination but I was thrilled to be able to sign on to a photography-focused trip guided by the amazing Gerald Rambert. When I came on board I thought I was a pretty good photographer but with his guidance and coaching, I was able to take my good photos and make something really extraordinary. Gerald helped me with my wide angle shots, which I had only previously dabbled in, and I was able to play with the light and get some shots that I had never before achieved. If you are looking for an adventure which combines remote diving, amazing culture, a top notch crew, great food and a comfortable dive boat, check out the Solomons PNG Master and Dive Munda. I know I will be going back to explore more of the wonderful culture and diving on offer. •

We would love to show you around, Imperial Travel Service has a passion for the Solomons and honouring the history that has shaped the islands. Visit us to book your airport transfer, tour or any reservation requirements. www.imperial-travel-service.com

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS She sells sea shells… Just about every tourist or traveller who visits the Solomon Islands comes away with an item or two of shell money. It’s something unique to this small Pacific nation and makes for a perfect souvenir or gift. But you have to wonder how many of those visitors have actually seen how this iconic artefact is created. During our stay at Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway at Langa Lagoon in Malaita we were treated to a fascinating demonstration of this old tradition. Shell money has been used for generations and some provinces – including Malaita – still use it today, primarily for ceremonies, settling disputes, and bridal and land payments. In Malaita, although the shells aren’t accepted at banks, the majority of shops on the island take shells in exchange for goods. It is beautifully crafted from seashells, often consisting of strings of differently colored shell-beads. For weddings and dowries it is carefully stitched together into ornamental costumes and headdresses. Women and children lead the process of producing shell money with assistance from men and boys. From the collection of the shells, to shaping, colouring and polishing, the entire production process can take up to three weeks to complete. Four species of shells are collected by divers (usually boys or young men) to be shaped into shell money. The different colours of shell – black, white, red and mauve – have different values, the red being more valuable. The women dry the shells and break them into pieces and then chip away at them with a stone to fashion them slowly into round disks of less than one centimetre in diameter. We watched as a group of women, a boy and a man from the nearby village demonstrated the lengthy process. Another woman then used some kind of clay to stick the pieces to a small, flat rocks which she ground against a larger flat rock to help smooth the disks. The discs were then washed and a traditional drill that looked a bit like a bow and arrow was used to make a hole in the centre. The discs could then be threaded together and polished by laying them along a long piece of wood with a groove cut in it to hold the shells in place, and a young boy and an older man polished the beads using grinding stones – this is the hardest physical work in the process and results in smooth beads around five millimetres in diameter. With the shell beads finally complete, they are threaded on to strings up to a couple of metres long for use as shell money. Naturally we came away with a few items – a couple of necklaces, bracelets and some earrings. The whole lot cost us the equivalent of about AUD$12.50

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s ’ h a r e S

Amazing

Tony and Elaine Wilson have literally gone off the beaten track in the Solomon Islands to seek out small Solomon Islander owned – or at least part owned – resorts that offer a true insight into the life of these Melanesian people. This is the final part of a three part series.

his is not just a story about a wonderful resort but about the strength and determination of a Solomon Islander who took more than 30 years to create her dream. Serah Kei has built her stunning hideaway resort in the middle of Malaita’s Lenga Lenga Lagoon in many cases quite literally coral block by coral block with her own hands. Serah picked us up in her banana boat in Auki, the capital of Malaita, which is a province not yet really known for its tourism. It had taken 30 minutes to fly from Honiara to Auki. As for most of the Solomons, planes and boats are the only forms of transport apart from walking or swimming. After a very scenic 40-minute boat trip past myriad islands – many of them man-made which is a real Malaita tradition – we arrived at Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway. As we stepped ashore, the look of absolute pride and satisfaction on Serah’s face spoke volumes for what she has achieved over her long journey.

Hideaway

Serah said she is a real Langa Langa girl who comes from a village near her resort. She began building on her 1500 square metre site in the late 1980s and it took 31 years of hard graft to reach the stage now where she has three guest houses and her own two storey home. And it really was back breaking work.

Serah explained that she had to first build artificial islands from coral blocks, so she had to source the coral around the lagoon. “Then we would wait until low tide and break up the coral blocks with a crowbar, which was very hard work, ‘’ she explained. Then Serah and a family member would load the blocks into a dug-out wooden canoe and wait until high tide then take the blocks back to her site and pile them up to build artificial islands. She repeated this practice hundreds of times over decades. The end result is six small islands connected by wooden walkways. Her husband, Gustav, a German based part of the year in Brisbane, is a builder and helped with the construction. Malaitans have used this unique method all over the province to build their homes for hundreds of years. They are generally built on sandbars or exposed reefs, by heaping boulders or coral blocks up until a permanent landmass remains. The houses they build on top are usually made from bamboo, palm and pandanus and while they may look flimsy, these leaf houses are really quite sturdy. Serah had to also bring in the raw materials for her buildings by boat and then construct them piece by piece. It was slow, painstaking work but the end result is worth all the years of toil.

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS Throughout the years Serah financed much of her work by buying and selling shell money. This is a real commodity unique to the Solomons and it is similar to dealing in gold, with shell money still used in many transactions today and increasing in value by 300 per cent over the past decade. (See story left/right…) Malaita is not just about diving and snorkelling, it is more about history, culture, style and a very distinctive way of life, far removed from the Western world. Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway typifies this and it was easily the highlight of our trip to the Solomons. There are no beaches but the swimming and snorkelling is fine, and it shows the tourists the real life in this province. Just cruising the lagoon in her boat gives you a snapshot of life in Malaita and sitting on your deck enhances it as you watch the steady passing canoe brigade and listen to the people singing as they paddle to and fro or while they are at work out of sight. Serah’s is a beautiful setting with lovely gardens and spotlessly clean accommodation and the ablution block is likewise and has the only flush toilets in a 15 km radius. There is no mains electricity but lanterns and some solar panels do the trick and somehow the lack of power adds to the ambience and charm. Serah is a tireless and charming host and also one of the best non-professional cooks we have encountered anywhere in the world. Her food was superb and it was the first time we have had lobster twice in a row. She also prepared a beautiful dish of parrot fish with ginger and some wonderful squid and pork dishes. If you want alcohol, you can bring it yourself and we bought some wine in Auki to have with the great food. On our last full day at Serah’s we were treated to a music

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D E ST INAT IO N SO L O M O N I S L A NDS

and dance Sunday afternoon, which was the highlight of the entire trip. Nine male kustom dancers from nearby Buku village were accompanied by women and children who sang and clapped out the beat. The men in grass skirts performed more complicated dances than we have seen in most of the Pacific and were quite lively. Most of the children from Serah’s village nearby turned up to watch the show, which added great atmosphere to the afternoon. Then the 19-member panpipe band arrived and they were simply fantastic. The pan pipes came in all sizes from miniature to huge ones on stands with the bamboo pipes about 20cm in diameter and these were beaten with rubber

paddles and even thongs. They were accompanied by drums made of wood with rubber or leather tops. The drummers were extremely good, setting up a cracking rhythm, and the tunes from the pipes were beautifully melodic. The women from the village began to sing again and the dancers joined in with more moves as well, much to the delight of the audience. Some of the little boys joined in on the sidelines, imitating the dancers – the performers of the future perhaps! This was a most memorable afternoon and we would recommend it to everyone travelling to the Solomon Islands. And it was a fitting finale to a great country. •

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D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

Talofa Samoa L

ocated in the heart of the South Pacific, Samoa has long been regarded as the birthplace of Polynesia, with a culture as alive today as it was 3,000 years ago. At the heart of this culture lies respect and hospitality, and the Samoan people cannot wait to demonstrate this the Samoan Way. Witness the creative expression of this tradition and join in the celebrations at a fiafia night, where delicious Samoan food, surf and turf style, is served and the culture is celebrated through traditional song, dance and storytelling as distinct and unique as the culture itself. You can even take home a memento from the local markets, with handicrafts, fashion, jewellery and handmade artifacts made in Samoa. Known by many as Mother Nature’s Playground, Samoa has an abundance of pristine beaches, lush gardens, majestic

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mountains, powerful blowholes and stunning seascapes, all in place waiting to be explored and enjoyed and offering a plethora of activities catering for all types of travellers. But in order to truly appreciate the beauty of Samoa, you must tap in to the Samoan Way of living – to slow down and to faifai lemu, which literally means ‘take it easy’. Relaxation has been turned into an art form and travellers who visit Samoa soon rediscover the pleasure of simply watching the world go by. Only then can we really appreciate the beauty of nature, the importance of family and why the Fa’a Samoa culture exists to protect these. If you’re up for a family adventure, a couple’s escape, a spiritual or cultural experience or just a piece of paradise to get away from the hustle and bustle of life, beautiful Samoa awaits.!•

PICTURE: David Kirkland

Samoa has an abundance of pristine beaches, lush gardens, majestic mountains, blowholes and markets.

D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

“The best advice I can give any visitor to Samoa is to rent a car and head off to explore the island for yourself. The roads are good, they go to

After spending 10 days shooting the highlights of Samoa, photographer David Kirkland has some tips about the best places to visit and where to grab a great bite to eat. “

ou sound like you’ve been here before, what would you recommend?” Asked the couple I shared the half hour shuttle ride from the Faleolo International Airport to Apia. Although I’d not been to Samoa for five years, this was actually my 10th photo assignment so I felt reasonably well equipped to make at least a few suggestions. The best advice I can give any visitor to Samoa is to rent a car and head off to explore the island for yourself. The

Samoa’ s Pick s c i P e h of t PICTURES: David Kirkland

everywhere you’d want to see, navigation’s easy with Google Maps and its definitely the best way to see Samoa at your own pace.”

roads are good, they go to everywhere you’d want to see, navigation’s easy with Google Maps and – setting aside getting caught behind a funeral procession when you’re heading over the cross-island road – it’s definitely the best way to see Samoa at your own pace. If I was staying in Apia, I’d divide Upolu Island into two separate day trips, probably with a few days in between to relax and enjoy wherever I was staying. On the first day, I’d head down to Lalomanu Beach along the coast road and, after a swim, hit a couple of the attractions on the south east coast (maybe To Sua Trench and Togitogiga waterfall) before coming back on the cross-island road. On day two, I’d go back over the cross-island road but turn right at the bottom, stopping in at Sinalei Reef Resort for breakfast to admire its traditional Samoan architecture, before visiting a few of the

beaches around that half of the island. For those considering Savai’i – and you’d be crazy not to if you have the time – I’d take my hire car across on the ferry and spend a couple of days enjoying “what Upolu used to look like 20 years ago.” It’s all comfortable driving and, wherever you go, you’re likely to find Samoans happy to chat and help you along the way. FIRST DAY OF THE PHOTO SHOOT It’s Day One and I can’t sleep on planes so, arriving at 6am after a five-hour flight, I’m feeling a bit shattered. As Samoa is three hours ahead of Brisbane, I’m faced with the age-old dilemma of deciding whether to get some sleep on arrival, or persevere until after dinner in a bid to quickly adapt to the different time zone. It’s a perfect day – clear skies and a

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D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A

golden light for photography – so I check in, rent a car and head off with camera in hand, planning for the days ahead. WHERE TO START The Samoa visitor’s bureau in Apia was to be my first port of call to find out what’s changed in five years and whether there’s any special events on that might lend themselves to photography. But I arrived too early so I headed down to the nearby fish markets to see what had been caught, and to shoot the colourful old buses that pull in and head out just behind it. If I didn’t have a million other things to photograph, I would have jumped on one of the buses and just gone to wherever it was heading for some sightseeing with the locals, knowing it will eventually make its way back. From there, I wandered into town, stopping in at Cafe Milano’s at the end of the mall for breakfast or a coffee and cake (I mention the latter as cakes, I discovered, are Dora’s specialty. The PM’s favourite, I’m told, is the Hummingbird Cake) which, not-so-remarkably my partner might suggest, it

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barely sat in front of my camera long enough for me to take a photo. By the time I’d finished breakfast, the visitor’s bureau was open so I dropped in to see if there was any cultural performances being staged in the fale’s out the back. At the same time, I listened out for the flag raising ceremony (which wasn’t too hard as it comes with the police band so it sounds like the circus has come to town), before wandering off to the souvenir markets for a few laughs with the stall owners. GOOD TIME TO HEAD TO CHURCH By now it was getting close to midday and I was keen to escape the sun so I dropped into the main church in Apia just across from the visitor’s bureau to marvel at what has to be one of the most impressive buildings of worship in the entire South Pacific (more-so during a Sunday service when it fills with soaring Samoan harmonies). Samoa’s Prime Minister recently declared Samoa a “Christian Nation” (a status reflected in the remarkable claim I read that the country has a church every 2.5 kilometres).

D E ST INAT IO N SAMO A Satisfied I’d put a dent in my short list, I returned to my hotel room to process a few photos and plan for the next nine days, though it was short-lived; I did room service and I was asleep by seven. THE BEACHES AND THE WATERFALLS Some of my most enjoyable times in Samoa have been spent laying around the simple timber fales (huts) that sprinkle the edges of its white sand beaches. You can rent them for the day or stay in them overnight (in which case, for around $60, you’ll get a mattress and a pillow, some sheets and a mosquito net plus three meals a day). You awake to your reward the next day when you roll out of your fale, take a few steps across the clean white sand and plunge into the tepid waters of the South Pacific. Just Glorious. On Upolu, Lalomanu’s the place to go for beach fale’s but I liked what I saw when I dropped in at Materava Beach this visit. On Savaii, head to Manase Beach on the north coast where there’s plenty of options. I can recommend staying at Tanu’s if you’re a family, and Regina’s for something a bit smaller and more intimate. In terms of waterfalls, Togitogiga is my favourite because of its two tiers and the refreshing pools you can swim in (it’s also free). Papapaita Falls and Sapo’aga Falls both offer pretty impressive views – but from a distance. And on Savaii, don’t miss Afu Aau Waterfall. SOME TIPS FOR PHOTOGRAPHING SAMOA There are a lot of beautiful scenery shots to be captured on both Upolu and Savai’i so, when it’s sunny, plan to shoot the beaches around 10 am when the water has colour and the air is clear. If it’s overcast, head for the waterfalls or the fern forests inland. Drone pilots will need a permit (AUD$100) and you’ll have to apply a week in advance but it’s almost worth the money and the hassle because there’s a lot of fun stuff to play with and you’re likely to return with some pretty exceptional images. This photo of Nuusafee island did it for me, as much for the fact my drone made it back having flown so far from the mainland. But, a word of warning, no flying on Sundays unless you’re looking to attract the wrath of the gods on prayer day or, worse still, the attention of Samoan’s looking to enjoy their family Umu (food cooked in an earth oven). Beyond scenery, you’ll see many great opportunities to photograph Samoa’s culture and the lifestyle the people lead. Highlights for me have included the fire dancing, the traditional Ava ceremony and the Samoan body tattoo – the Pea on the men and the Malu on the women.

road. The coloured houses and Fales, Afu Aau Waterfall, the amazingly iridescent water in front of Amoa Resort, the whole beach fale experience at Monase, or just standing there at sunset on the island’s most westerly point. And, Savai’i moves at an entirely different pace – slowly, seemingly unaffected by the rest of the world. As some mainlanders lament, it’s what Upolu used to be 20 years ago.

SHOULD I HEAD TO SAVAI’I? Much as I enjoy Upolu, Savai’i is my favourite island. In my view, it’s one of the prettiest islands in the entire South Pacific, with something appealing or interesting at every turn in the

…..WHICH BRINGS ME TO THE FOOD Now, let me start by writing my time was short and my priority lay with photographing Samoa’s tourist attractions but, that said, I did manage to squeeze in some great restaurants and

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cafe’s in and around Apia. Paddles – on the harbour foreshore – was exceptional for its service and its Italian food, if you can time your visit for Elisio’s hand-made gnocchi, you’re in for a particular treat. Nourish Cafe (behind the church) I loved for its funky, fresh approach to cuisine and particularly its Knockout Smoothie (soursop, spinach, mint, and coconut water), which looked way too healthy to be so enjoyable. I mentioned Cafe Milano earlier for its desserts and coffee, and Giordano’s, just up the hill a bit, is an institution – though, sadly, I didn’t get to try its swordfish and Polusami pizza which was the buzz around town. Also up that way (a short taxi ride) is the Home Cafe for a cold beer and some fine grilled food – I ran amok shooting all the quirky and wonderful curios that decorated it. And finally – though I didn’t get to photograph it this trip – drop into Scalinis for dinner where I had – get ready for this – the best chicken dish I’ve eaten in my entire life, I think it was the Moroccan chicken with vegetables. Perfect. As I write, there were many other restaurants and cafes on my list I didn’t visit, including those at the resorts, and there were plenty of other attractions I wanted to photograph but I just ran out of time. I guess I’ll just have to come back to Samoa again to happily finish what I started. •

Fishing for expert business advice?

To learn more visit the Business Link Pacific Portal www.businesslinkpacific.com

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D E ST INAT IO N MARS H A L L I S L A NDS

Death of a Prince The Prince Eugen’s watery grave in the Marshall Islands’ crystal clear water during an oil recovery operation.

The namesake of one of Europe’s most famous military commanders lies upside down in a lagoon at Kwajalein Atoll in the Marshall Islands. Roderick Eime recalls the extraordinary life and death of this famous warship.

he story of the famous German WWII heavy cruiser, Prinz Eugen, one of the few large German warships to survive the global conflict, is a fascinating one and her voyage to destruction in the Marshall Islands just as intriguing. The ship was actually the fourth naval vessel to carry the name of the famous, if controversial, French-Austrian general who commanded European armies for 50 years until his death in 1736. One of five sister ships, the massive 19,000-ton warship was launched in 1938 and first took to the sea, battle ready,

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in 1940. Armed with eight 8-inch guns, the state-of-the-art warship could steam at an impressive 34 knots (60km/h) while fully loaded. The ship’s most memorable action was as the raiding companion to the Bismarck during Operation Rheinübung and the Battle of the Denmark Strait in May 1941. The outcome of that famous battle is well known with the Royal Navy’s prize battlecruiser, HMS Hood, comprehensively destroyed by the awesome firepower of Bismarck and the loss of all but three of the ship’s 1418 men.

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The USS Prinz Eugen on its way to ‘execution’ at Bikini Atoll (top) and the Baker Test explosion at Bikini on 25 July 1946.

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Enraged at the loss of Hood, Bismarck was pursued by all the RN’s available heavy ships and eventually sunk, while Prinz Eugen escaped and returned to occupied France. The rest of the Prinz’s war was mostly as a floating gun battery, shelling the advancing Soviet troops and covering the German retreat in the Baltic while avoiding the British bombers sent to destroy it. After the German surrender and still in remarkably good condition, Prinz Eugen was taken by the US Navy as a prize and sailed to Boston still with the captain and some of her German crew aboard. But the Prinz did not behave for her new masters and gave trouble, especially with her main boilers. Not wishing to waste time on a technically unfamiliar ship, the US Navy decided the Prinz would be sent, via the Panama Canal, to the remote Pacific atoll of Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands and blown up along with numerous other captured and obsolete vessels during nuclear tests under Operation Crossroads at Bikini Atoll in mid-1946. Prinz Eugen had to be towed to Kwajalein for the first test, Able, which it survived. It was then used in the second test, Baker, which it also survived, adding to the mystique of the

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vessel as a particularly tough warship of exceptional build quality. Because of unanticipated clean-up and radiation issues, the third detonation in Operation Crossroads was cancelled and the entire program terminated. The disruption to the lives of the residents persists to this day and a display is dedicated to their plight at the Alele Museum in Majuro. Despite surviving the two nuclear blasts, Prinz Eugen was still heavily contaminated even after efforts to clean off the radiation with brooms and fire hoses. As such, the ship could not re-enter service in any way and her metal was deemed too contaminated to salvage. Meanwhile, Prinz Eugen had begun to leak and was in danger of sinking. Unable to be repaired, it was towed to shallow waters and eventually took on enough water that it capsized and sank on 22 December 1946 at Enubuj at the southern end of Kwajalein, just a few kilometres from the present day airport.

In late 2018, the US Navy completed operations to extract nearly one million litres of fuel oil that was in danger of leaking into the waters of the lagoon. Since the sinking, some items have been recovered such as a propeller and bell. Following an effort by former crew members, one propeller was returned to Germany in 1979 and is on static display at Laboe Naval Memorial near Kiel in Germany. Today the stern of the upturned hull can still be seen and it is now safe enough to be explored by recreational divers and snorkellers. For a ship that was engaged almost continuously throughout the war, it survived remarkably well despite a major collision with another ship and a torpedo strike. Many of the surviving German sailors recall the warship with fondness as a blessed vessel that saw them safely through many dangerous times. â&#x20AC;˘

Diving the wreck of Prinz Eugen Divers anchor on the wooden wreck of a small hull in 30 feet of water opposite the screws. The hull rests against the reef, but there is an opening at the 90 foot level, just forward of the bridge. The bow is at 110 feet and you can swim under it. There is easy access to most of the ship. The crewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quarters are accessible with remains of bunks and personal effects. The mess area contains crockery; a latrine, machinery and fire-fighting gear is suspended on the deck. Amidships much has fallen onto the seabed including some AA guns and their mounts. Some items have been recovered from the bridge. The armament; two large turrets with twin 8-inch barrels, large 4.1-inch guns, dual and quad AA guns are almost all still intact. Port torpedo tubes have torpedoes in them. The interior structure is fairly intact and is safe for exploration.

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The shipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s armament is intact; the 8-inch main batteries fell from their mountings when the Prinz Eugen capsized in 1946, and now lie upside down on the bottom. Smaller secondary armament and anti-aircraft weapons, although heavily encrusted with marine growth, are visible all along the length of the ship. The portside torpedo launcher still remains, and a room nearby contains a large rack of torpedoes which should be considered dangerous and not disturbed. Although the bridge and superstructure are crushed against the bottom, many interesting items can be seen both on the vessel and on the sandy bottom beneath it. Manta rays, large grouper, and grey reef sharks are common here, the marine life nicely rounding out the scenery afforded by this once proud warship. More: www.DiveAdventures.com.au

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DINING

THE MARKET GARDENS OF EDEN

he capital of Fiji, up until recently had not been known as a tourist town. Home to embassies and NGOs, regional headquarters and Fiji’s biggest population, Suva was all about business travel. The re-opening of the Grand Pacific Hotel and Fiji Airways’ direct flights from Sydney and Auckland have seen more visitors arrive in recent years to check out the capital. One thing Suva has had for many years now, is some of the best restaurants in the Pacific. Eden, owned and operated by the formidable Sangeeta Maharaj is in a class of its own. Sangeeta visits the Suva markets early every Saturday to get the freshest catch, most aromatic spices and crunchy vegetables to ensure her restaurant guests enjoy a fabulous

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meal. A walk through the Suva markets with Sangeeta is a true Fijian experience – her favourite farmers all greet her with huge smiles and save their best catch for her. Eden’s menu is extensive – from Pacific flavours to Indian favourites, Thai curries to New Zealand lamb. The seafood is the best available in Fiji and Sangeeta’s curry pastes are all homemade. Sangeeta loves to travel and when she does she takes cooking classes along the way, bringing home new recipes to extend her menu. Eden is located near the American embassy, on the corner of Bureta and Maharaj Streets. Bookings are required for most nights due to its popularity. •

The Sheraton Fiji Resort is renowned for its location and service. The addition of Vai guarantees ‘an explosion of flavour’.

VAI RESTAURANT AND BAR, SHERATON FIJI RESORT

enarau is Fiji's home to luxury hotels with the Sheraton Fiji Resort first among equals so it's no surprise that its newest restaurant offering, Vai is a cracker. Situated on the beach with 180-degree ocean views and stunning sunsets, Vai captures the heart and soul of Fiji. ‘Vai’ meaning ray fish or stingray in local dialect, brings to the Pacific an explosion of Mediterranean flavour. Chef Camilo Vanazzi originally from Brazil delivers his favourite recipes to Fiji. Camilo has travelled through France, Spain and Italy gathering a wealth of knowledge and culinary expertise. Before arriving in Fiji, he worked in several two and three Michelin star restaurants including La Cote Saint Jacques at Bourgogne in France.

Camilo is a lover of nature and everything that it provides. From its fresh and tasty food to moments of quiet contemplation such as surfing and yoga. “My father used to cook at home and from an early age I helped him cut and prepare our dinners. It was from this moment that I wished to prepare for them day by day and make it my lifestyle.” The Vai experience begins with an adults-only ocean side breakfast which flows seamlessly through to a Mediterranean inspired lunch menu, with subtle salads, fresh seafood and handmade pasta. Dinner tops out with an extensive selection of freshly caught lobsters, mud crab and slipper bugs cooked to perfection.•

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C H R I S T IAN A COOK S

BASIL ) m u c i l i s a (Ocimum b T

he scent of basil reminds me of our house in Italy. In the summer it grew almost wild around the house. With a happy green excess of basil this time of the year using it in every way I could was my goal. I created many recipes, be it with pasta, soups, stews, tomato dishes, meat, game, fish, egg dishes and aromatic oils and herb butter. Basil originated in Asia and Africa. It is also called great basil or St. Joseph’s wort and is a culinary herb of the mint family. The foliage colour can range from green to purple. In medieval times, many doctors thought basil was poisonous. Knowing better, it is now used in cuisines worldwide. There are actually 21 types of basil with distinctive flavours and aromas, but a selection of the most commonly used in cuisine and growing in my herb garden in Vanuatu are Sweet Basil – an aromatic plant with a spicy odour and flavour This is the traditional style basil that most of us use in our Italian dishes, tomato sauces, pesto, in soups and salads. It

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grows easily in a sunny place in the garden or pots. Thai Basil – Licorice-like aroma An Asian variety with a distinct, spicy, anise-clove flavour, quite unlike common sweet basil, sweet Thai is a must-have addition to Asian cuisine. Thai basil stands up to cooking a little better than sweet basil, making it a good choice for soups, stirfries, and curries. It can also be eaten raw sprinkled over salads or cold noodle dishes and used interchangeably with sweet basils in most recipes. Lemon Basil – Intense Lemon fragrance. This basil variety can be added to salads and fish dishes with abandon. A sprig of Lemon basil in a glass of iced tea is particularly delightful on a hot summer day. TIP: Basil picked for use in the kitchen is best held in a glass of water at room temperature. Putting basil in the refrigerator results in discoloured and unattractive leaves. My Lemon Basil Garlic Butter recipe (page 90) is quick and easy to make and so full of savoury flavour. This butter is perfect for adding to grilled chicken, fish, steak, or bread.

PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha.

Basil is widely grown throughout the world, and usually grows well in the Pacific region too. Here’s Christiana Kaluscha’s guide to what it’s good for and how to use it.

Pesto Pesto, or to refer to the original dish ‘pesto a la Genovese’, is a sauce originating in Genoa, Italy. It traditionally consists of crushed garlic, pine nuts, coarse salt, basil leaves, hard cheese such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Sardo, all blended with olive oil. Pesto is a mouthful of bright summer. You can buy it premade from your grocery store, but there is nothing better than making it yourself. It is delicious on a tomato bruschetta, with spaghetti, grilled meat or fish, add a dollop to a tomato soup, let your culinary fantasy play. This basil pesto recipe is packed full of fresh flavour and is ready in five minutes. It is traditionally made with a mortar and pestle, but this is the quicker version. I have used pistachio nuts instead of pine nuts which add an extra hint of sweetness and nuttiness.

INGREDIENTS • 3 cups lightly-packed fresh basil leaves. • 50 g freshly grated Parmesan. • 70 g shelled pistachios (you can use pine nuts or nangae nuts instead • 3 cloves garlic • 1 teaspoon sea salt • 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil METHOD • Combine basil leaves, pistachio nuts and garlic in a food processor and process until very finely minced. • With the machine running slowly dribble in the oil and process until the mixture is smooth. • Add the cheese and process very briefly, just long enough to combine. Store in refrigerator or freezer.

Caprese Salad (serves 4 – 6) Insalata caprese (literally, the salad from Capri) is the perfect summertime dish. The salad was created in the 1950s at the Trattoria da Vincenzo for regulars out for a light lunch. This salad is as easy, impressive and delicious! Sun-ripened tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction and olive oil. Because this salad is so simple, top-rate ingredients are imperative!

INGREDIENTS • 1 kg sun-ripened tomatoes (about 4 large), sliced 1 cm thick • 500 g fresh mozzarella (buffalo or fior di latte), sliced 1cm thick • 1/4 cup packed fresh basil leaves • 3 to 4 tablespoons best quality extra-virgin olive oil • ½ cup balsamic glaze • fine sea salt to taste • freshly ground black pepper to taste METHOD • On a large platter arrange tomato and mozzarella slices and basil leaves, alternating and overlapping them. • Sprinkle salad with balsamic glaze • Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil • Season salad with salt and pepper.

Cucumber-Basil Agua Fresca Makes about 7 cups A healthy, refreshing summer drink. INGREDIENTS • 2 large cucumbers • 1/2 cup fresh lime juice • 1/4 cup (packed) basil leaves • 1/4 cup sugar, plus more to taste • 2 cups water

METHOD • Slice a few thin slices of cucumber; reserve for garnish. Peel and coarsely chop remaining cucumber. • Purée chopped cucumber, lime juice, basil, 1/4 cup sugar, and 2 cups water in a food processor until very smooth. Strain into a pitcher and add 2 cups water, adding more sugar or water if needed, then chill until ready to serve. Add reserved cucumber slices just before serving.

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Above: Spicy Thai Basil Chicken (Pad Krapow Gai); Above right: Pesto

Spicy Thai Basil Chicken (Pad Krapow Gai) (2 – 3 serves) INGREDIENTS • 1/3 cup chicken broth • 1 tablespoon oyster sauce • 1 tablespoon soy sauce, or as needed • 2 teaspoons fish sauce • 2 teaspoons coconut sugar (or brown sugar) • 2 tablespoons peanut oil • 500 g skinless, boneless chicken thighs, coarsely chopped • 1/4 cup sliced shallots • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 2 tablespoons minced Thai chilies, Serrano, or other hot pepper • 1 cup very thinly sliced fresh basil leaves • 2 cups hot cooked Thai rice

METHOD • Whisk chicken broth, oyster sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, coconut sugar together in a bowl until well blended. • Heat large skillet over high heat and drizzle in oil. • Add chicken and stir fry until it loses its raw colour, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in shallots, garlic, and sliced chilies. Continue cooking on high heat until some of the juices start to caramelise in the bottom of the pan, about 2 or 3 minutes. • Add about a tablespoon of the sauce mixture to the skillet; cook and stir until sauce begins to caramelise, about 1 minute. • Pour in the rest of the sauce. Cook and stir until sauce has deglazed the bottom of the pan. Continue to cook until sauce glazes onto the meat, 1 or 2 more minutes. Remove from heat. • Stir in basil. Cook and stir until basil is wilted, about 20 seconds. • Serve with rice.

Lemon Basil Garlic Butter Makes 1/2 cup. INGREDIENTS • 1/2 cup butter, salted • 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh basil • 1 garlic clove, finely minced • 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon or lime zest • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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METHOD • Mix all together until blended well. • Serve right away or wrap in wax paper and refrigerate until ready to serve for up to a week.

ABOD E

Weathered and Wealthy ok o l s n o t p m a H e h t t e G

Inspired by the decorating and architectural styles of a renowned group of Long Island, New York villages, Hamptons style is the new go-to dĂŠcor trend for simple sophistication. By Toby Preston.

PICTURES: Peter Aaron, Bespoke Real Estate, Interiors Addict

Below: Incorporating touches of French Provincial is a Hampton style meme, the arched timber ceiling is a unique and gorgeous feature.

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Above and below: Located on Jule Pond, Southampton this sprawling 42-acre estate is up for sale at US$175 million.

here are some geographic areas which become synonymous with style: The California Bungalow, Scandi, Tuscan, Dutch Colonial, The Queenslander, Spanish, Cape Cod and … Hamptons. The irony is that while Hamptons style is seen to be coastal, casual, cool, white and weathered the area is in fact home to some of the world’s most expensive and lavish real estate. Seaside simplicity comes at a price! The Hamptons – Southhampton, East Hampton, Bridgehampton, Westhampton along with various villages like Sag Harbor and Amagansett – are names long associated with seaside wealth, style and leisure. The area is renowned as the most expensive zip code in New York and a summer getaway for NYC’s rich and famous. Celebs like Calvin Klein, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Beyonce and Jay Z keep holiday homes in the area along with a variety of bankers and business tycoons. Jackie Kennedy spent her childhood summers there at Lasata a seven-acre estate that recently sold for nearly US$39 million. The little retreat belonged to her grandfather John Vernou Bouvier who bought the 10-bedroom mansion in the 1920s. While the median asking price is around US$2.2 million there is an opportunity to buy in at $175 million if you’d like something a little larger than the neighbours. Originally built for the Ford family of Model T fame the 42-acre spread on Jule Pond enjoys nearly a quarter of a mile of ocean frontage and a massive Left: A masonry or rough stone feature wall incorporating a fireplace is the perfect focal point for simple white and rustic timber open plan, light-filled rooms.

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1800 square metre, 12-bedroom, 12-bathroom main house. There’s also a 60-foot pool a three bedroom carriage house a basketball court and a tennis court, a guest wing, a staff wing and … you get it, everything the person with everything could possibly want from their holiday home. But many people achieve the timeless Hamptons look with a lot less money, there are any number of builders in our region who are advertising Hamptons-style new-build homes for a fraction of the real thing and there are equally many interiors decked out to reflect Hamptons style. A bit of white tongue and groove timber, some exposed beams, a lot of white paint along with some subtle neutrals, pieces of cane furniture, linen fabrics, and you’re on your way. Add a few weathered nautical touches and the odd beachcomber find for a beachy look and you could be in Sagaponack. A stone feature wall and/or fireplace complete the comfortable look if you’re somewhere cooler. For more inspiration, as these places are so Instagramable you’ll find thousands of pictures there and on Pinterest. Get out the white paint! •

Right: Encompassing warm polished floors, high whitepainted, beamed ceiling and subtle natural fabric tones, this kitchen, dining, living combination is right at home with the relaxed upper end of Long Island vibe. Far right: the soaring white ceilings and beach views in this Mona Vale, Australia home reflect perfectly Beach House Australia’s interpretation of the Hamptons look. Briefed with a mandate to not only meet a technical and architectural design, the client wanted longevity and minimal maintenance in an extreme coastal (beach front) environment. Design: Giles Tribe Architects

Below: left: Weathered timber, nautical themes and a few well chosen objects d’art complete this tableau. Below centre: The real thing – a huge

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PICTURES: Simon Whitbread, Beach Houses Asstralia,

estate which was among the ten most expensive homes sold last year ranging up to US$40 million. Below: White, blue and warm brass touches.

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BOAR D IN G SC HOO L S

any kids from the Pacific islands complete their secondary education in Australia and New Zealand. Here are four Queensland schools with long relationships with island kids.

Stuartholme With only 680 students, Stuartholme is small enough for each girl to be personally known, yet large enough to offer an extensive, relevant and dynamic range of opportunities. Away from the classroom, the range of enrichment and co-curricular activities allows each girl to build self-confidence whilst developing her talents and interests. Only six kilometres from Brisbaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CBD, Stuartholme provides the girls with a quiet, safe environment where they can live and learn. In many ways Stuartholme functions like a village, it is a highly relational, inclusive educational community where everyone knows and cares for one another. Boarders have been at the heart of the school since it opened in 1920. Today, the Boarding House is a home-awayfrom-home for 120 boarders. New Dean of Boarding, Karen Davies, brings to the school a passion for developing wellbeing amongst young people that

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will strengthen the comprehensive holistic care of Stuartholme girls. The Boarding House vision is to inspire all boarders to do their personal best, to aim for excellence academically and/or vocationally, to develop high level inter-personal skills and to become compassionate and inclusive young women. Stuartholme employs boarding staff who are skilled and passionate about providing expert care and support for adolescent girls. The wellbeing program is designed to help boarders develop a set of wellbeing skills through a strengths-based approach so that girls believe in their own potential, know that making mistakes is part of life and are confident that they can adapt their mindset and behaviour when needed. Stuartholme School encourages students to recognise their responsibilities as global citizens who are passionate advocates for social justice. A Stuartholme education allows students to develop an in-depth awareness and understanding of international issues, develop their capacity to recognise another personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective and communicate ideas across diverse linguistic and cultural backgrounds. Students are empowered to make a profound difference to the communities they come from and to the wider world. To find out more please visit www.stuartholme.com

Boarding at St Peters Lutheran College opens doors Co-educational Brisbane boarding school St Peters Lutheran College has a proud boarding tradition—one that opens the door to a vast range of educational and co-curricular opportunities. Since 1945, St Peters has been a home-awayfrom-home for students from all around the world. Currently, we house over 170 boarding students from rural and regional Queensland, the Northern Territory, Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu, Southeast Asia and beyond. St Peters is a place where the whole family can stay together. Our approach to boarding is modelled off the family unit, with opportunities for boys and girls to interact at meal times, study sessions and during organised activities. There are a range of support systems in place for each student—it is essential that each St Peters boarding student, from Year 6 to Year 12, receives the care and support they need throughout their schooling years and our unique mentorship initiatives ensure this. By boarding at St Peters, your child will learn independence and organisation. They will have access to nutritious food, onsite healthcare facilities, a dedicated pastoral care team, weekly worship opportunities and a wide range of recreational

activities. St Peters boarders develop a strong sense of selfbelief and friendships bonds that last a lifetime. The sense of community displayed by our boarders is unlike anything else. St Peters has an enviable reputation in the community for providing a high-quality education where we challenge minds, nurture hearts and build futures. Students in Years 6 – 10 follow the Australian curriculum whilst students in Years 11 and 12 can choose to follow either an ATAR, International Baccalaureate or Vocational Education pathway. The comprehensive co-curricular program on offer involving sports, music, robotics and service learning is second to none. St Peters boarding is a true home away from home for our boarders. To find out more about boarding at St Peters Lutheran College, visit: www.stpeters.qld.edu.au

St Peters Lutheran College

Excellence in Prep–Year 12 Co-Education. Day: Prep–Year 12 | Boarding: Years 6–12 LUTHERAN COLLEGE

2020 & 2021 Boarding Places Available

Apply Now Consider St Peters Lutheran College in Brisbane. Offering excellence in co-educational boarding for Years 6–12 since 1945. Contact Ross Thomson, Director of Community Engagement on r.thomson@stpeters.qld.edu.au

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BOAR D IN G SC HOO L S Boarding at Brisbane Grammar School At Brisbane Grammar School, students from diverse backgrounds live the School’s core values of endeavour, learning, respect, leadership and community. The School’s ambition to be the best school for boys in Australia creates an environment where boys realise their promise and pursue their talents. Brisbane Grammar School’s proud boarding history began when the School opened in 1869. Today, a modern relevant boarding program engages and supports boys on their school journey. The Harlin House boarding precinct is set in the heart of the School’s inner-city campus. The House caters for 100 students, with individual rooms for senior boys and three dormitories for boys from Years 5 to 10. Brisbane Grammar School’s broad liberal education aims to develop multi-literate students who are critical, reflective and creative thinkers. Each boy is challenged to fulfil his potential and achieve his best. Student wellbeing is central to the School’s mission. Teachers support boys to be happy, confident and resilient, both at school and as lifelong learners. A dedicated student

wellbeing team implements the School’s formalised wellbeing program, which aims to monitor each student’s progress. Beyond the classroom, boys are encouraged to make the most of the School’s co-curricular activities, which include sport, the visual and performing arts, and special interest clubs and activities. By developing their talents and pursuing their interests, boys make friendships and learn teamwork and leadership skills. The School takes part in a variety of competitive sports and activities. As part of its unique educational experience for boys, BGS also provides students with adventure-based education at its Outdoor Education Centre at Moogerah, west of Brisbane. Visit brisbanegrammar.com.

Discover the opportunities for boarding students at Queensland’s leading school for boys. Brisbane Grammar School Gregory Terrace Brisbane QLD 4000

Telephone +61 7 3834 5200

Website brisbanegrammar.com

For more information email enrolments@brisbanegrammar.com CRICOS Provider Number 00489C

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Boarding at St Margarets, Ascot For Allysah Toua of Papua New Guinea attending Australia’s St Margaret’s Anglican Girls School has been an incredible experience brimming with opportunities that will help her foster her full potential. “Studying in Brisbane has been great because of the amount of opportunities the school and living in Brisbane have to offer,” she said. Allysah loves that she gets to play volleyball and cricket for the school and also enjoyed her stint on the basketball team. The Year 11 student, who first joined St Margaret’s as a boarder in Year 8, also embraces the city’s many experiences and events. “Brisbane is a very multicultural city and I love the fact that I get to experience amazing culture and tradition at places like Eat Street and through festivals such as the BrisAsia Festival, Cinco de Mayo, Paniyiri and the Pasifika Gold Coast,” Allysah said. Earlier this year Allysah was appointed as a Brisbane International Student Ambassador which has opened the door to a wide range of activities and lifestyle experiences across the city.

The St Margaret’s boarding house is just as culturally diverse as the city in which it is situated with students hailing from rural and regional areas of Queensland, NSW and the Northern Territory as well as overseas locations including Papua New Guinea, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands and Asia. Each year, the boarding house hosts a ‘See my difference, See my worth’ festival designed to celebrate the boarding community’s vibrant cultural diversity through activities and experiences. Boarders also have the chance to visit their friends’ homes during a special boarders’ long weekend, allowing them the chance to experience a very different life outside the city, often in rural and regional centres in Queensland and New South Wales. www.stmargarets.qld.edu.au•

St Margaret’s PRE-PREP - YEAR 12

BOARDING YEARS 5-12

A leading Australian boarding school for girls

A local school with a global outlook www.stmargarets.qld.edu.au • 11 Petrie Street Ascot QLD 4007 T: (07) 3862 0777 • E: admissions@stmargarets.qld.edu.au St Margaret’s School Council Ltd ABN: 69069684019 CRICOS Code: 00511K

99OP1-15 % 2018 Seniors

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A R T S MAR T

t r o f f e e v i t c e l l o C

Wish Fulfilment A remarkable collection of contemporary and clever artworks have emerged from a little-known, small Vanuatu island thanks to the foresight of a Brisbane couple who set up a workshop for this talented group to develop their skills and sell their works â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Awis was born. By Toby Preston.

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he genesis of Awis (‘wish’ in Bislama) was in July 2014, when Brisbane couple Ona and Arthur Filloy began a month-long visual arts workshop in Port Vila, Vanuatu with a group of artists from the island of Mataso which lies off the north coast of Vanuatu’s main island of Efaté. In 2006, the artists had been mentored in the skills of screen printing during an earlier workshop. The work produced was very appealing and a large number of the prints were exhibited at the 6th Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art at Queensland Art Gallery/GoMA. Some of these works were also included in the 2014 GoMA exhibition Harvest. In addition, a significant number of the prints were acquired by Queensland Art Gallery and the National Gallery of Australia. After viewing the ‘Mataso Printmakers’ (as they were previously named) work at APT 6, Ona and Arthur resolved they would like to meet the artists during their next trip to Vanuatu. The Filloys had visited Vanuatu many times but had never seen much in the way of visual arts. In 2011, Ona and Arthur visited a Mataso village in Port Vila where they met the leader of the Mataso art group Simix Simeon. During this meeting Ona and Arthur learned although they had great success with their work their benefactor had moved back to Europe and had abandoned the project. During the next three years, Ona and Arthur developed a strong relationship with Simix. With renewed interest and the encouragement of a local Brisbane art dealer, they decided to run a new workshop. Their hope was to create a new collection of Mataso art, from which the artists might, this time,

receive appropriate remuneration. This was the beginning of the ‘Awis — Artis Blong Vanuatu’ project. In that July, Ona and Arthur rented a cottage in Port Vila where they ran the workshop. Simix revitalised the original artists, transporting them to work each day for the next month in the village bus. The workshop was very productive and the Filloys returned to Brisbane with over 100 pieces of art. Ona and Arthur’s mission is to bring Mataso art to the world. The aim is to provide the artists with the means to generate a regular income through their artwork. Prints are available in two distinct editions – Limited (AU$500 per print) and Open from a very reasonable AU$49 per A4 print. Larger versions up to A2 (42 x 60cms) are priced at AU$180. The Awis shop can be found at the Haos Blong Handikraf on the Port Vila seafront, this market features authentic Vanuatu handicrafts from over 50 vendors. Prints can also be bought online from www.awisartis.com •

Left: The artwork that gave the collective its name, Awis by Stanley Firiam. It depicts one of the largest outrigger canoes ever built in Vanuatu. In 1974, it was used to ferry Queen Elizabeth II (that’s her with the parasol) from Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia to the High Commissioner’s residence on the island of Iririki in Port Vila. Above: David Kolin’s Haos Blong Pango Rod, which was the rented house on Pango Road used to run the 2014 workshops.

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Left: Awis Artis Blong Vanuatu are a group of artists from Mataso Island, Vanuatu. These young artists are from the post -independence (July, 1980) generation and have spent more time on the larger island of EfatĂŠ where television, advertising, reggae and string band music have merged with local and traditional beliefs and lifestyle. From left Simix Simeon, Apia Willie, Jack Siviu, Patrick Tomas, Sepa Seule, David Kolin, Stanley Firiam, Herveline Lite. Right: Sepa Seule Pima (Pepper). Far right: Simix Simeon - Samata / Natin Nahavie. The Samata is a fish, Natin Nahavie is a sea turtle.

Below left to right: Cherly Fish (Jelly Fish) by Herveline Lite; Simix Simeon - Kokor Nike (Fish net); Simix Simeon - Matana Watalam (Eyes of the

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Chief); Patrick Tomas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Nokia Smile. All prints are created using an inkjet printer with Epson Ultrachrome K3 ink.

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u o y n e Wh

Wish Upon A Star Where can you have the ultimate fairytale wedding? Yep, you guessed it, Disneyland. By Rod Eime

on’t worry, you wouldn’t be the only one who’s dreamed of a Disneyland wedding. Chances are you were mesmerised by at least one of the classic fairytale weddings from your childhood. Was it the magical matrimony of Cinderella and her prince or perhaps Ariel, Belle or even Snow White? If anyone knows how to make a fairytale wedding, it has to be Disney and you can bet they sure do. The original Disneyland in Anaheim, California, was where the first customer fairytale wedding took place more than 25 years ago, but you can also tie the Disney knot in Florida, Hawaii or aboard one of the Disney Cruise Line ships. Clearly, that fantasy nuptial caught on because since then some 50,000 couples have followed suit, each in their own unique way. “The average Disney wedding is about 60 to 80 guests in size,” said Korri McFann, marketing director for Disney Fairy Tale Weddings, “however, you can opt for anything from the Memories Collection, which starts at US$3,500 and includes up to four guests in addition to the happy couple, to the Wishes Collection, with a price tag that can sail well north of $50,000 if you select all the spectacular bells and whistles. “You have so many choices,” McFann said.

What’s the damage?

Be prepared, because no Disney wedding is going to be a budget exercise. To give you some idea of the outlay, you can choose from either the resort ($4,000) or theme park locations ($4,500) or perhaps one of the ultra-desirable sites such as the Magic Kingdom Train Station ($15,000 and up), the Magic Kingdom East Plaza Garden near Cinderella’s Castle ($25,000 and up) or the whole Magic Kingdom after hours ($50,000 plus). And that just covers the location. Catering for your guests will then set you back $140 per person for brunch, $165 for lunch and $190 per dinner. Disney has its own special Wedding Pavilion ($5,000) situated on a private island accessible by footbridge at the Grand Floridian Resort & Spa. Thanks to its special location, this elaborate Victorian chapel is the most popular choice for Disney weddings. “We call it the ‘Crown Jewel’ because you have this amazing

This page: Sleeping Beauty Castle Real-life couple Britney and Hans tied the knot in front of the regal Sleeping Beauty Castle at Disneyland. After arriving in a glass Cinderella Coach, the couple was greeted by their own Major Domo (who acted as their ring bearer) and romantic music from a harpist. The newlyweds then continued the celebration with a dinner and dancing reception at Disney’s Grand California Resort Ballroom. “Our job is to take a couple’s style and sensibilities and what they’re looking for — their hopes, their dreams, the logistical part of it — and help them pick the perfect venue and the perfect destination that works for them,”

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Above: Would you like cheese with that? Cinderella’s coach awaits. Below: Double the romance stay in the Disneyland Paris hotel for

backdrop of Cinderella’s Castle as the bride walks down the aisle,” McFann said. Disney weddings also offer couples the opportunity to get hitched in such far-flung locales as under swaying palm trees of the ‘South Pacific’ in their Florida Luau Pointe Polynesian Village Resort with its Seven Seas Lagoon while surrounded by the sensuous allure of the islands.

Ask Mickey and Minnie along

Disney’s comprehensive wedding planning facilities are located on Disney properties, called Franck’s Studio, after the Martin Short character in ‘Father of the Bride’. This Victorian summerhouse is bedecked with inspirational tableaus such as a wedding reception themed after the popular ‘Frozen’ Pixar animated fantasy film. At Franck’s, a dedicated team of Disney wedding specialists, or ‘fairy godmothers’, will simplify an otherwise complicated operation, even without magic spells or ‘foo foo dust’. No Disney wedding would be complete without a special appearance by your favourite Disney character. Add $1275 for a 30-minute set with one character or $1795 for two. Some characters, as you can imagine, are more in demand than others. “Mickey and Minnie are very popular with weddings,” McFann said. Beyond the most famous characters, other Disney entertainers include the Major Domo in full dress regalia (from

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your honeymoon.

$950), the English butler (from $800) and the fanfare of herald trumpeters in medieval garb ($750 for one and $1275 for a duo). Couples with a kooky sense of humour can add a touch of the ridiculous with such random extras as the ‘Tacky Tourists’, billed as “wacky, fun-loving Disney fanatics who know everything about Disney and will entertain your guests and liven up your reception.” If this isn’t too over-the-top, you can even invite the ‘Uninvited Wedding Guests’, a polyester-clad husband and wife duo of improvisation actors who will mingle with guests and keep the air lively and not too serious. But wait, there’s more! Some locations will even offer such peculiar enhancements as a confetti cannon to announce their union or cue a private fireworks display. And what about the iconic Cinderella Coach? Yep, you get the full treatment with six white ponies, uniformed driver and two matching footmen. This will elevate your occasion to the extra special, but if you have to ask the price, you probably can’t afford it. Even if you’re not ready for the full wedding ensemble (just yet) why not ease into it with a fantasy proposal or engagement at Disney, where you can pop the question while wooing him or her in a private carriage ride or on a cruise by moonlight under a sky of fireworks. And if your chequebook can extend that far, spend your honeymoon at Disneyland too. More: www.disneyweddings.com•

Above: If it’s okay for Mickey and Minnie then why not? And you can take the cake get the personalised stationery.

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Online Assistance ansformation digital tr

Business Link Pacific is set to support the digital transformation of Pacific business

n 2015, the World Bank reported on the significant job creation potential of the IT enabled service industry in countries like Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga. Through the reformation of telecommunication sectors and gradually improved connectivity across the region, the economic benefits of a digitally connected Pacific are becoming ever more apparent. Business Link Pacific (BLP) is supporting the current digital transformation of the Pacific Islands as more businesses in the region are taking advantage of available online tools to improve their operations and reach international markets. At BLP they support businesses to address their digital needs through training, access to software or step-by-step strategies to developing an online presence or enter new markets. BLP’s main objectives are to connect small and medium sized businesses in the Pacific to local advisory services providers, and to create a healthy local market for business services. This involves identifying what a rising business needs

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to grow and then connect it with a good quality and reliable service provider that can address the identified need. BLP approved business advisors offer tailored solutions to local businesses, we know that one size doesn’t fit everyone. BLP works with small and medium sized businesses (between 5 and 50 employees) in Fiji, Samoa, Papua New Guinea and Vanuatu whose venture is growing. Reliable business advice can make all the difference for these businesses, as we have seen through the experiences of many across the region that have worked with the BLP advisor network. BLP’s Portal offers a free online Business Health Check that identifies business gaps. From there a business can search for and access a wide range of business service providers, quality approved by BLP. Growing businesses can choose experts based on their area of need and access financial support if required. BLP is funded by the New Zealand Government and is set to support the development of PICs’ private sector. •

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Tourism Royalty Jackie Charlton of Fiji’s Captain Cook Cruises was born into the tourism industry

ackie Charlton is tourism royalty in Australia. The daughter of Trevor and Geraldine Haworth the founders of Captain Cook Cruises on Sydney Harbour, Jackie knew from a very young age her life would be in tourism and hospitality. “Mum and Dad really were among the founders and pioneers of tourism in Australia, I couldn’t see any other career.” At the height of their business, Captain Cook was the leading cruise line in Australia and the Southeast Pacific, the company operated more than 25 ships. Its passenger manifest exceeded one million customers on their day/dinner cruises, plus an additional 40,000 visitors on overnight cruises. “I remember clearly working on my parents coffee cruises as an eight year old – washing cups and saucers. I was paid 50 cents a day,” Jackie laughed. “Then as a 12 year old I was promoted to handing out flyers to tourists at Circular Quay and to answering the phones every weekend a couple of years later.” Jackie crew up in Sydney’s Neutral Bay, she attended Loreto in Kirribilli along with her sister Alison who later would windsurf to school each day. Jackie loved all parts of the business, but it was a family holiday to Fiji as a 12 year old that would really set the course for Jackie’s life. “Dad was the epitome of a workaholic. He never took time off – I don’t remember socialising with him as a kid at all, just working with him. One day he booked a holiday including cruise to Fiji, saying he needed a break. “Mum was very much involved in the business, running the sales and marketing. She attended some of the very first sales trips and was one of the first Australians to go to ITB in Berlin (Internationale Tourismus-Börse). They really did wave the flag for Australian tourism.” The long overdue family holiday included time at Fiji’s first resort, The Fijian (now Shangri-La).

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“The whole family fell in love with Fiji, the people and the country. We all just loved it.” It would be many more years of expanding the business in Australia before Captain Cook Cruises would eventually establish a presence in Fiji. In 1990 a joint venture was formed between Qantas and Captain Cook Cruises to build and operate an accommodated cruise vessel on the Great Barrier Reef. Construction of the ‘Reef Endeavour’ (above in Fiji) took place at the Suva dockyard in Fiji and took 18 months before starting operations in Queensland. It was during this time Jackie’s father met the man who would become his partner in the Fiji arm of the business, Semi Koroilavesau. “Dad ended up moving what is now the Reef Endeavour from Cairns to Fiji and partnered with Semi’s family to start Captain Cook Cruises Fiji. That partnership continues today.” Jackie is now the managing director of Captain Cook Cruises Fiji and leads a team of dedicated, long serving Fijian and expat staff. “We have a terrific general manager in Fiji and a couple of ex Captain Cook Cruises Australia staff in Fiji too. Together with our fabulous local staff – some of which have been with us for over 15 years – they are responsible for the success of the business.” Jackie, while still based in Sydney, visits Fiji regularly and tries to go on at least one Captain Cook Cruises trip a year. She can’t pick a favourite island in Fiji but says the Mamanuca and Yasawa islands visited by her ships are simply stunning. The company has won a string of awards in Fiji for its day, sunset, three day to 11 day cruises and she puts it down to ensuring each and every guest has a memorable experience. “It’s so easy with our Fijian crew – they make the business and genuinely want to ensure each of our guests has the absolute best time possible. •”

Fiji calling? Natadola Beach Land Estates is a secure investment gem waiting to be discovered.

icture living by turquoise waters and world famous white sandy beaches. Tucked in a private, gated precinct, the estates pull in sweeping views of both the picturesque landscape and Fiji’s Natadola Beach’s white sandy stretch. Designed to luxury residential standards, with all infrastructure and works undertaken by professional suppliers and contractors, Natadola Beach Land Estates is a gem waiting to be discovered. Comprising 44 1600sqm (minimum size) allotments in an exclusive gated precinct with 24-hour security, each block at Natadola Beach Land Estates offers breathtaking elevated views of either the ocean, Natadola Bay or the majestic surrounding hillside. The Natadola Beach Land Estates buyers are a mix of local and international, proving its position as one of Fiji’s most enviable real estate developments. This reflects the confidence the market has in the unique Natadola Beach Land Estates as a perfect holiday and retirement destination. Natadola Bay Resort Pte Limited (NBRL) is a private incorporated company in Fiji wholly owned by the Fiji National Provident Fund (FNPF) Founded in 1966, the FNPF is Fiji’s largest and most trusted financial institution. As a major national investor and one of Fiji’s largest property owners, FNPF has a stable reputation and rich legacy of serving members, employers, pensioners and other key stakeholders, both locally and abroad. One of the premier projects is the Natadola Beach Land Estates. “Our targets are local and international buyers, who can be corporate – to purchase land, build and lease to hotels, corporate organisation’s executive homes or holiday homes,” NBRL says. “With land selling from FJ$350,000 VIP, individuals can

purchase, build and lease holiday homes or retirement homes.” Also available on a 1628sqm land is a partially furnished 3 master bedroom home, which includes a large car port that accommodates two vehicles, a family size swimming pool and a deck overlooking the Nadatola horizon. A corporate fee will be levied to property owners that is inclusive of monthly maintenance of the public areas. Privacy and security is assured in this prized location, where you can do as much or as little as you please. The build quality and professionalism of these construction companies is exceptional and completed homes are finished to an excellent standard. When time comes for you to choose the right builder for your home, FNPF can assist you with a considered and comprehensive list of companies they recommend. Natadola Beach Land Estates is a clean, green, family-friendly community that offers residents a contemporary lifestyle with quality homes, ordered gardens and well maintained landscaping. The development has drawn particular interest as the first to offer prepaid 99 year leases, included in the purchase price. This is a landmark deal with the iTaukei Land Trust Board that provides owners with leasehold land, which in Fiji is much the same as freehold land. •

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G L O R I OU S GAR DE N S

e l b a t e Set th

Outdoor Dining Why not use one of the best ‘rooms’ in the house and get outside for entertaining on a grand scale or just a casual meal with a few friends. Carolyn Ernst tells how to prepare your garden for a great meal.

ardens are emotive, they conjure up a wide range of feelings in every one of us from the success of being able to create a thing of beauty, to being a place to relax and rejuvenate our minds and bodies amongst the peace and tranquillity. They can be plain hard work (for the non-gardener) and a challenge - to be able to grow something that nobody else has, frustration – because it just won’t do what YOU want it to and finally, for many of us, a place to enjoy our friends and family. It is always pleasant to go to a nice restaurant and it is certainly less work to entertain this way, but there is nothing like a special event in your own garden. These events can range from a simple afternoon tea with a few friends to a sit-down formal dinner for 100 people, with every option in between. Having your special event in your special place, that place that you have created, makes it even more special. The grand event is not for the faint hearted, a lot of hard work and planning goes into a successful function. If you do not feel up to doing all of this yourself, there are many choices available. There are some great hire places that can provide everything you need and there are also some marvellous caterers that will provide whatever food and drinks you require, and there are event managers that will do absolutely everything for you. It is essential that you are honest with yourself about the level of your capabilities. If it is an important occasion for you, you need to be able to enjoy it, so make sure you only undertake what is within your skills and what will not stress you and spoil your pleasure on the day. I like to entertain, and I also like to garden so it comes as

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no surprise that I combine the two on as many occasions as possible. At our current property the first building we built was a local style nakamal (thatched structure) that was used for part of my fiftieth birthday celebrations. Since then, it has been well used for my daughter’s wedding, my husband’s sixtieth, a celebration of life for a very good friend, my sixtieth and countless other lovely get togethers with friends and family. We have the lights and power needed for night functions and the toilets are close, these are all important requirements for any party location. When thinking of outdoor functions, one of the things often forgotten, is the requirement of clean toilets. The bushes may work for most males, but we females require a little more. This can be easily fixed with portable toilets, if you have a good hire company anywhere near you. If providing food, the provision of plates, knives, forks and glasses is an important consideration. All these things can be hired, but this can get expensive. Over the years I have purchased cheap glasses at bargain shops and second hand cutlery that allows me to cater for nearly 100 people, without any issues. The prices I paid were cheaper than the available hire rates. You also need to consider, tables and chairs. I have always hired them for important sit-down events but also on other occasions I have used homemade substitutes, stumps, blocks and planks, anything to enable people to sit and eat. What you use, depends on the theme you are trying to create. If you enjoy entertaining and enjoy doing it yourself then having an area in your garden for this, is important. Many people are now building and developing very sophisticated outdoor entertainment areas. Many include BBQs, smokers,

Top: Raid the garden for your table flowers and decorate with shells. Below: Get festive with lights and balloons or set up on the beach.

pizza ovens and upmarket visual and audio systems. Swimming pools and spas often feature. With the advent of garden heaters these places can now be enjoyed in all weathers. Preparing your garden for your very special event can take months and much planning. My aunt potted and grew hundreds of pots of annuals that were due to flower during the planned period. She did the hard work and started from seed. In many places you can buy flowering plants which makes it easier and more predictable. If you go and have a chat with your local plant supplier, they can give you a list of the plants that are available for that period and then you could pre-order

what you want. These pots of annuals can then be buried in the garden to add instant mass colour. I did the same with pots of bougainvillea for my daughterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wedding, although I must admit, I only got half of them to flower at the required time. In your forward plans it is good to think about giving the garden a good prune, this needs to be done at least three to four months in advance to allow the bushes and shrubs to recover. Give them a fertilise at the same time and make sure they are getting enough water over the following months to provide that lush healthy growth you want, to make them look their best.

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If you have access to reasonably priced flowers, then large arrangements of flowers add a nice touch to every occasion. I love sharing my garden with friends, with a bunch of flowers picked from my garden. If your event is in the evening, then lighting is an important consideration. Fairy lights are cheap and a beautiful addition to every occasion. There are some lovely cheap ways to make lights and Pinterest will give you a huge range of choices. I have seen some lovely uses of tea lights and paper bags and used jam jars are now the thing for everything, from lights to glassware. By thinking outside the box there are almost always cheap options for everything you require. Many people do not have the space to have an event in their own garden, but this does not need to stop you having an outside party. There are beach parties, picnics in the park, operas in the vineyards and many more options. All of these are ways we can enjoy the outside environment for our entertaining. There is a huge range of venues for hire and they provide a whole range of services. From providing just

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the venue, to providing the BBQs for do-it-yourself meals, to full catering with all the frills. It is up to you to decide the right location and services, for you. As our lives become busier and busier the opportunity to relax and enjoy ourselves sometimes seems to get harder and harder. I believe it is important to make the effort to celebrate the special things in our lives with our friends and families and to celebrate every one of our birthdays. The numbers keep getting bigger and bigger and for some reason I can’t resolve the difference in how I feel, to the size of that number. I believe that we must celebrate the passing years, as well as celebrating the fact that we are still here able to celebrate them. There are so many people that have not been that lucky. I also admit I love presents as well. Happy Gardening • Gardening editor Carolyn Ernst owns and operates Eden on the River, an open-garden, petting zoo, cafe, mini zipline, waterfall adventure park in Port Vila. It is a mustvisit whilst in Vanuatu for a great day out.

PICTURES: Craig Osment

Above left: That’s the upmarket version of a ‘nakamal’. Right top: Get inventive with the fruit basket; Below: Call in the caterers.

Crossword Puzzling questions to while away your holiday. Solution on page 118 ACROSS 1 Money in the form of notes or coins (4) 3 Church service (4) 10 Way of life; refinement (7) 11 Travel path (5) 12 Volcanic output (3) 14 Cookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s protection (5) 15 Pig noise (5) 16 Jumps (5) 19 Menu item (4) 20 High-rise hotel feature (4) 22 Piece of furniture (5) 25 Fijian lolo buns, for example (5) 26 Consumer (4) 27 Beachcomberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s targets, possibly (9) 29 Stratum of ore (4) 31 Guide in a theatre (5) 32 Something really special (5) 34 Playoff match (4) 35 Money for accommodation, usually long term (4) 37 Essentially (3,2) 40 Chopped cucumber in yoghurt, served with curry (5) 41 Presses clothes (5) 43 Atmosphere (3) 44 Below (5) 45 Spanish vessel (7) 46 Unwanted email (4) 47 Lobster of sorts (4) DOWN 1 Reef component (5)

9 12

14 17

31 34

33 35

36 41

45 46

2 4 5 6 7 8 9

Sweat room (5) A long way (4) Deep-fried crumbed veal or chicken pieces (10) Plane journey (6) City sections (7) Climatic conditions (7) Near the ocean (7)

13 17 18 21 23

Piece of turf (3) Breadwinner (6) Old type of TV screen (6) Australian islanders (10) One from Down Under perhaps (6) 24 Evens out (6) 28 Single payout (4,3)

29 Electronic retention of data (7) 30 Airborne manoeuvres (7) 33 Catch a plane, say (6) 36 Triathlon, in short (3) 38 Plane detection device (5) 39 Too soon (5) 42 Killer whale (4)

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THE PEOPLE:

Behind Your Magazine

Behind the scenes, or should that be the scenery, since we’re in the Pacific, we’re making your mag. TIFFANY CARROLL | Editor Tiffany began her career in journalism at GTV 9 in Melbourne before switching to print media with Rural Press newspapers in NSW. Later she joined the private office of the Premier of Victoria as Press Secretary in the second term of the Kennett Government. She has been editing Air Vanuatu’s inflight magazine Island Spirit for nine years as well as Pacific Island Living, Malaga and The Essential Vanuatu. NICOLE BROWN | Art Director Nicole has worked as a senior designer in many areas of publishing prior to becoming immersed in island life on both Pacific Island Living, Malaga and Island Spirit. Nic’s a graduate in graphic design with an advanced diploma to her name as well as a string of consumer magazine design credits. GEORGIE GORDON | Features Editor Georgie’s university studies in communications, journalism and publishing were followed by a successful career in advertising. Georgie now spends much of her time writing about the things she has a passion for - design, food, travel, books, health and beauty. She now resides part time in the region, allowing her to pursue her enthusiasm for promoting the pleasures of the Pacific. CHRISTIANA KALUSCHA | Food Editor Christiana studied languages and economics at Cologne University before taking up the life of a sea gypsy, sailing the Mediterranean from Spain to Turkey and onwards around the world. Fluent in several languages plus the language of food, Christiana now runs the exclusive boutique B+B, Sarangkita, on the beachfront outside of Port Vila, from where she also conducts cooking tours and classes as the creator of Vanuatu Food Safari. OLIVIA WAUGH | Fashion + Style Editor Olivia Waugh is a highly regarded fashion stylist with a career in both retail and editorial. She has been Fashion Editor for the top-selling Australian weekly Woman’s

Day and Fashion Director of the glossy monthly SHOP TIL YOU DROP. She is currently freelancing for a variety of Australia’s top magazines and manufacturers as well as island-hopping. CAROLYN ERNST | Gardening Editor Carolyn Ernst is a passionate gardener and farmer. Originally from New Zealand, Carolyn has called the Pacific home for well over 25 years. She is a married mother of four children and two grandchildren and operates Eden on the River - an outdoor adventure and garden experience in Port Vila. PAT INGRAM | Editorial Director Pat Ingram has a long and passionate association with magazines. She edited Australian Cosmopolitan and Harper’s Bazaar before her 10-year stint as Publishing Director for ACP Magazines’ 16 women’s titles including Woman’s Day and The Australian Women’s Weekly. She currently works as a publishing consultant and editorial director for Fairfax Media. She is a resident of Vanuatu and dreams of spending most of the year there. CRAIG OSMENT | Publisher Craig has over thirty years’ experience as an independent publisher of consumer magazines, books and trade titles. Originally a graphic designer, he was art director of Australian Cosmopolitan, The Bulletin and POL magazines. Now a Vanuatu resident, he is also the publisher of Island Spirit, the Air Vanuatu in-flight magazine and The Essential Vanuatu. DAVID KIRKLAND | Photographer David is one of the most widely published tourism photographers and writers in the Asia Pacific region. He specialises in working with national tourism authorities and producing worldclass promotional images. David’s photographs circulate the globe. He has written and photographed 16 books, and he owns the largest on-line photo library dedicated specifically to travel and tourism in the South Pacific (www.davidkirklandphotography.com).

islandliving | 119 pacific

PAR AV ION

Class Action Island Style Establishing who’s who in the social order is a much subtler business on an island than it is in the city. Toby Preston goes in search of class clues.

ife on an island is in many obvious respects different to life in a big city, all island dwellers become used to references to ‘island time’ and know that while that phrase is full of implicit frustration it is also pretty much the reason for choosing island life. But there are other less obvious differences which can make for some confusion; the usual ‘class’ cues are largely absent on an island. There are expat tribes as well as the indigenous variety but they are harder to discern. Who wants a Maserati? In a city there are myriad social signals which are used to judge a person’s place on whatever pecking order you choose to make judgements. There’s where you live, pockets of relative poverty or prosperity are easy to identify when you’re familiar with your local street directory or Google maps, on an island that’s not such a simple given. Sure there are certain places that everyone recognises as expat havens for upmarket lifestyles, some of those canal estates with large cruisers moored at the end of the garden for instance but mostly it’s not that easy, as a remote and little-known beachfront might be equally splendid as an address. Cars are another indicator of status in cities but who on an island is going to choose a Maserati over a HiLux ute when the roads are often barely more than a track through the bush? So, maybe you can pimp your truck but that may only serve to identify you as a wannabe arriviste rather than a person of real substance. Big hats, no cattle Then there’s wardrobe. In a place without a dry cleaner what use is a suit? Politicians sometimes are seen in suits but mostly the dress code in the Pacific for men at least, is shorts, a t-shirt and thongs which don’t say much unless you’re into the finer details of the cut of a pair of shorts. And the choice of vocation isn’t always a reliable indicator either, a lot of people move to the islands for a more relaxed way of life and take on small hobby businesses that might be subsidised by any number of income producing investments scattered around the world. I was lunching with a man recently who ran a micro B&B, it turned out some while later that he had a string of technology patents and was something of a software genius who just happened to want an easy going beachside life where he could indulge his passion for cooking and meeting people. Equally there are any number of people who are definitely

120 | Islandliving pacific

not big hats with no cattle, in spite of their modest presentation they are often descendants of colonial era families who own vast tracts of land and plenty of livestock but still get about in a beaten up, dusty truck and the regulation shorts and t-shirt. Indeed it’s almost always the spivs and parvenus who try the hardest to appear to have substance and seek status. Shonky developers wielding subdivision plans with absolutely no means to achieve any of the real estate visions they promote are most likely to be the human versions of a Linkedin page sprouting fantasy CVs to gullible prospective customers within moments of meeting them. The region is notorious for beaches of broken dreams with half built resorts crumbling in splendid isolation as markers of failed fast talkers and fly-by-night operators. As Somerset Maugham famously said of Monaco, it’s a sunny place for shady people. That epigram applies to any number of Pacific exiles who see the place as perfect for the new age mercantile missionaries spending other people’s money. They may plan to rape and pillage a village but so often they are simply defeated by inertia as much as a shortfall of funds – island time so often overcomes ambition. Beware, there’s more than the sun that can burn you in the islands. Hold the gold taps The modest but moneyed island aristocracy are usually long term residents with a real commitment to the countries they inhabit with webs of businesses and well connected networks but little interest in being bloviating boors. They just get on with it and enjoy themselves in relative anonymity with no need of symbols to satisfy their egos. Islands after all are not really compatible with opulence; simplicity and sunshine are at the heart of the attraction. Gold taps and baroque furniture don’t sit well with salt and sand and a hammock is the ultimate indulgence if you want to luxuriate on the beach. Indeed having recently returned from a few days on a very upmarket island, which admittedly provided every service imaginable, and food to match, the essentials weren’t all that far from what many more modest places have on offer. When the attractions are largely natural – sea sand, sunshine and water – apart from a larger thatched villa and a turn down service there’s not much more to add to the ‘relaxed luxury’ which is the resort standard on most of our islands. And yes I did meet some of the other guests who were wearing shorts, t-shirts and thongs but sporting Cartier watches, which apart from the fact that they could afford the room rate was the only ‘class’ clue to be had.•

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