Pacific island living issue 14 Solomon Islands

Islandliving Solomon

SUMMER 2015 | ISSUE 14

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Island Hop NUGU FLORIDAS

Surfing

ADVENTURES

Getting around THE ISLANDS

Pacific Pulse NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+MORE

Plus

FOOD+HEALTH+FASHION

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Welcomem… elcome to Honiara.

Each time we return to these magical islands we find, to use a cliché, they really are the Pacific’s best kept secret.

From simply relaxation on Nugu island, to diving with half the world’s fish population in the Florida Islands or exploring WW2 sites, meeting local villagers or filling in a day exploring Honiara after meetings, the Solomons has something for everyone.

In this issue of Solomon Island Living we feature all of these treasures as well as offer some handy hints for island hopping.

If you’re in Honiara for business, do try one of the great restaurants, including The Ofis – for it’s awesome pizzas or grab a bite to eat at The Lime Lounge – now under new management.

Whatever you do, you are in the hapi isles, so enjoy.

Happy travels

PICTURES: Kate Coyne.

a k l e W

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Solomons island escape

Tranquil Simplicity Vista Buena

A family visit to a simple, unsophisticated island resort which is off the electronic entertainment grid left an indelible impression on Kathy Shortland-Jones.

Welcome to the world of Nugu Island, an idyllic getaway in a world of its own.

T

he ocean was a mirror as our banana boat skipped across Iron Bottom Sound towards the island of Buena Vista and our destination, Nugu Island Resort.

Flying fish raced us, leaping for ages across the surface of the water, chased by their own reflections. Our skipper, Michael, stood on guard at the back of the 3-metre boat, pointing out islands, dolphins, sailfish and seabirds.

In the middle of the Sound, we spotted two curious tiger sharks, fins slowly moving on the surface of the deep water, each one disappearing silently in a flash when we approached to get a better look. ‘Bigfala sharks’, Michael grinned at us. I kept my hands in the boat.

Our daughters – aged 1 and 4 - were initially thrilled by the ride, shrieking and pointing at sights, laughing at the spray, but the noise of the motor and the steady forward motion of our little green and blue boat lulled them to sleep for most of the 90-minute ride. I was content to gaze at the horizon, broken by grey-blue islands in the distance full of possibility and mystery. The boat ride began my slide into relaxation, taking me away from a hyper-connected life with too many things on my ‘to do’ list.

There is no wifi at Nugu. There is no television. There is no pumping music. Leave your devices behind. Leave your deadlines and lists behind. They are not wanted here.

Instead, there is the peace of the Solomon Islands encapsulated in one tiny bay. There are birds calling in the lush greenery surrounding the huts; there is the shush of the water on the white sand, and for us, most

importantly, there is the sound of our children in their tropical element, far removed from glaring screens and manufactured entertainment. Children (and adults!) make their own fun here.

Nugu is thoughtfully and simply designed for a peaceful retreat. Three kind brothers – Alfred , Silas and Sepp – own Nugu Island Resort and have been running it with steady patronage since it opened in 2008. The brothers inherited the land from their mother, following the matriarchal line traditional to this part of the Solomons.

The resort was finished in 1998 but, due to ‘the Troubles’, was unable to open until peace was declared in the Solomon Islands.

And peace can certainly be found here…

Catering for a big group of 16, aged from 1 to 82 years, could have been a logistical challenge but Nugu Island Resort welcomed us all. The babies had afternoon naps in the hammocks on the beach, rocking gently under the shady trees that nurse the shoreline. The adults slept, read, dived, swam, paddled, fished, or just stared out to sea, letting the tropics wash away their busyness.

Alfred manages the day-to-day operations at the resort, including being the chief cook of the hearty meals served three times a day. Usually reserved for a wintery night in a room heated by a crackling fireplace, Alfred’s pumpkin soup, served as an entrée one night, was the culinary winner of our stay. The children loved to see Alfred appearing with his small whiteboard and marker ready

PICTURES: Kathy Shortland-Jones.

“Our daughters – one a developing swimmer, one in fluorescent green floaties – loved every minute of the water’s gentle warmth.”-

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to take everyone’s order for the next meal. There was usually a choice of two main dishes served with rice, and beautiful tropical fruit for dessert.

Every parent’s dream

In our hometown of Perth, Western Australia, the beaches are plentiful but they are often rough, with a sucking swell and crashing waves … not ideal for small children to explore in safety. The beach at Nugu is every parent’s dream. The shore is pristine white sand, the water is clear and the conditions when we were there were flat as a tropical pancake.

Our daughters – one a developing swimmer, one in fluorescent green floaties - loved every minute of the water’s gentle warmth. Watching the girls and their young friends paddling for hours in a wooden dugout canoe, shrieking with joy, spotting fish and coral, and laughing when they tipped over in the shallows, is a memory that will stay with me forever.

The girls were enchanted by the huts on stilts, raised high above the tidy gardens. The beds are wooden, the mattresses are thin and firm, and the rooms are sparse.

The accommodation is simple – let me be very clear – and sleeping under mosquito nets with children who kick like Shetland ponies was a bit of a challenge. When the generator switched off at about midnight, taking the fan with it, the heat settled on our tired bodies and the children were restless for a while, getting used to their new surroundings.

We all finally fell asleep after some rolling and grumbling, realising that we should have given the girls some practice at sleeping under mosquito nets before we arrived.

Our friends with older children woke early the next day and went fishing at dawn, seeing the sun come up over the edge of the world. They arrived back at the resort with triumphant smiles and tales of ‘the one that got away’. We joined them, coffee in hand, to share their adventures over breakfast, served by the ever-smiling Alfred and his team.

The days are spent slowly at Nugu, which is as it should be on a tropical island. The sun indicates the time to wake up and the clink of empty Sol Brew beer bottles rings the time to go to bed in the evening. There is no urgency here.

The fastest that I moved while I was there was to run to the water’s edge with the others to watch the sunset colours paint rainbows of red and pink across the bay.

The trip home was a very different affair from our smooth ride over. The water had become choppy, the swell was about 1.5 metres, and the spray soaked us all, as we rolled across Iron Bottom Sound back towards the noise and concrete of Honiara. In the little banana boat, our young daughters slept again in our arms, rocked by the waves and dreaming of canoes, hammocks, paw paws and the kindness of Solomon Islanders.

Time and love have been spent in creating Nugu Island Resort … and you will love spending time here. •

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The days are spent slowly at Nugu, which is as it should be on a tropical

“The girls were enchanted by the huts on stilts, raised high above the tidy gardens.

But sleeping under mosquito nets with children who kick like Shetland ponies was a bit of a challenge.�

island. The sun indicates the time to wake up and the clink of empty Sol Brew beer bottles rings the time to go to bed in the evening.

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Frequently Asked Questions s d n a l s i e around th Where are the Solomons?

An archipelago of 992 islands, we are located in the South Pacific, north-east of Australia between Papua New Guinea (PNG) and Vanuatu.

Entry requirements

Australian, New Zealand and most EU passport holders can enter for up to 30 days with a visa on arrival. Passports must be valid for six months. More information can be found on our website: www.visitsolomons.com.sb

People & Culture

Solomon Islanders are a blend of mainly Melanesian, Micronesian and Polynesian people with a population of around 550,000. Our cultural values stem back thousands of years and are very much linked to our land and surrounding seas. Most of the population still live a subsistence lifestyle where family and village community are the centre of social life.

Climate

Tropical. The drier and cooler months are April to October.

It’s warmer and more humid from November to March.

Average day time temperature around 28c.

PICTURE: Elio Stamm and Bronwyn Norris.

Government

The Solomon Islands follows the Westminster democratic system and is a member of the Commonwealth of Nations.

The head of state is the Governor General, representing the British Monarch. The Government is headed by an elected Prime Minister and cabinet. There is a 50-seat parliament with elected members. Honiara on Guadalcanal Island is the capital city and main port of entry and commercial centre.

Money

There are foreign currency exchange services at Honiara International Airport, and at major banks and ATMs in and around Honiara and some of the larger provinces. Credit cards are widely accepted in Honiara but it’s best to take cash to the outer islands. The currency is the Solomon Islands dollar (SBD)

Transport

Taxis are widely available in Honiara. While some have meters, it is advisable to set the price prior to commencing your trip. Ask at your accommodation reception desk prior for an estimate on trip prices. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau staff can also assist – contact us for more information. Buses generally operate along the main East-West corridor from King George School at the eastern end to Rove and White River to the west. Services also operate inland to up to Naha. Less frequent routes also extend further afield. Rental cars are also available.

Solomon Airlines flies to 22 domestic ports from Honiara.

There are regular shipping services to many parts of the Solomons from Honiara.

Business Hours

Most shops in town open from 0830 to 1700 Monday to Friday and until noon on Saturday.

Language

English is the official language of the Solomons, but Pijin is spoken by about half the population. In the early 1900s, copra plantations were established, the labourers employed on them had also worked in Queensland where they had used pidgin English. The local variety stabilised early and several religious missions adopted it for use.

Time

The local time is 11 hours ahead of GMT, one hour ahead of Australia’s East Coast Standard Time.

Post office

The Post Office, located next to Telekom is open 0900-1700 Monday to Friday and Saturday mornings.

Keeping in touch

Solomon Telekom Ltd is the main communications provider in the Solomons; 24hr telephone, fax and internet services are available in Honiara and most provincial centres. Mobile

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Frequently Asked Questions nds a l s i e h t d n u aro coverage is available in Honiara, Gizo and Auki – international roaming is limited so you may have to purchase a local SIM card. Internet cafes are available, so too are WiFi hotspots at major hotels and larger centres. There are two TV channels in Honiara, broadcasting BBC World Service and the Australia Network – from which local news is broadcast at 9pm and again the next morning.

Health

PICTURE: Ben King

Main centres have hospitals or health clinics. The Solomons does experience malaria and precautions are recommended including insect repellent and sleeping under a mosquito net.

Electricity

Where power is available (in most major centres) the electricity is 240v AC, with the same power sockets as Australia and New Zealand. Blackouts are common however, so it is a good idea to always have a torch with charged batteries.

Things to do

Solomon Islands is a surfing hotspot for those in the know with only a few breaks having been discovered by outsiders. Be the first to surf new breaks in one of the world’s last frontiers.

This is the new Bali with uncrowded surf perfection in a pristine natural and cultural environment. The best season for waves is November to April when the north Pacific awakens.

New surfing locations are being explored along Guadalcanal’s Weather Coast. For an update please contact Surf Solomons Telephone: (+677) 22 086 or email: info@surfsolomons.com

See you at The Ofis!

The Ofis is set a little out of town at White River, don’t let that deter you, it is a little haven by the sea. One of the few restaurants in town that allows an enjoyable dining experience, enjoy the sounds of crashing waves and sea breezes. Its location is perfect to stop on your way to or from the beach over the weekend. It’s a great meeting place offering wood fired pizzas and speciality dishes designed using local ingredients. The famous Ofis Wrap is a must-try with a homemade tortilla and a delicious chutney.

Crafted in a local style with a leaf hut design and pebble rock path, The Ofis is a casual dining experience. Open Wednesday to Sunday evenings for dinner with breakfast and lunch on the weekends it’s a little escape from Honiara.

Great to enjoy a sunny day with views of the islands and enjoy a hearty breakfast, good coffee or local smoothie in a rustic, casual waterside café.

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Is it OK to freely take photographs in villages?

It’s common courtesy to always ask permission to take photographs, especially of people.

Getting there

The national carrier Solomon Airlines, flies to Honiara four times a week from Brisbane; two times from Nadi, Fiji and weekly from Port Vila Vanuatu and Port Moresby PNG. Virgin Australia have twice weekly flights from Brisbane; Fiji Airways fly in weekly from Nadi and Port Vila and Air Niugini have three weekly flights from Port Moresby.

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