Pacific island living issue 14

Islandliving pacific

SUMMER 2015 | ISSUE 14

e s i d a Par cific a P e h t in

Island Hop

FIJI VANUATU SOLOMON ISLANDS MICRONESIA

Fashion Flash PACIFIC DESIGNS

Beauty Buzz

BACK TO THE FUTURE

Pacific Pulse

ISSN 2200-9566 04

9 772200 956005

NEWS+VIEWS RESORTS+REAL ESTATE

Plus

FOOD+HEALTH+MORE

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from the editor

he travel bug bit me when I was very young – I remember my very first trip away from home and still have my holiday diary from the time. I have always loved travel, not necessarily the travelling part (having travelled for work for many years I loathe plane travel), but meeting new people, exploring a new site, trying new food – it’s all very exciting for me.

So when the opportunity to visit the Federated States of Micronesia came up, I wanted to jump at the chance. An impending deadline prevented that trip, however I was amazed at the amount of journos wanting to get off the beaten track. Keri Algar drew the long straw and reports from one of the most spectacular countries on earth in this issue of Pacific Island Living.

Our regular health, beauty, gardening and cooking features are back along with a dive story that aims to get you back in the water.

Happy reading and do keep in touch via our website at www.pacific-island-living.com or follow us on social media and join more than 63,000 like-minded Facebook likers.

Tiffany Carroll Find us on Facebook

www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter

@PacIsLiving

and Instagram at instagram.com/pacisliving or read this and all our magazines online at www.pacific-island-living. com Cover images - Fiji Island Living courtesy Yasawa Resort & Spa; Solomon Island Living, by Joanna O’Shea; Nauru Airlines Cover courtesy Nautilus Resort, Kosrae; Vanuatu cover courtesy Sandcastles. Photo this page by Kate Coyne.

Copyright: All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji, Vanuatu Tourism Office or Pacific Island Living.

islandliving | 1 pacific

Pacific Island Living No 14 | Summer 2015 EDITOR Tiffany Carroll Email: tcarroll@photogenicpr.com ART DIRECTOR Tanya Green FEATURES EDITOR Georgie Gordon

WE PROVIDE FAST, RELIABLE AND EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS TO ALL YOUR ENVIRONMENTAL HEALTH NEEDS AND WE OPERATE TO AUSTRALIAN STANDARDS PEST CONTROL Household, commercial and timber pest

FASHION + STYLE EDITOR Olivia Waugh FOOD EDITOR Christiana Kaluscha GARDENING EDITOR Carolyn Ernst CONTRIBUTORS Toby Preston, Craig Osment, Pat Ingram, Carolyn Ernst, Christiana Kaluscha, Gayle Stapleton, Rod Eime, Tiffany Carroll, Tourism Fiji, Keri Algar, Nauru Airlines, Nautilus Resort, FSM, Richard Kotch, Kate Coyne, Joanna O’Shea.

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Pacific Island Living, is published quarterly by Photogenic Limited Fax (678) 23 402 | PO Box 322 Port Vila, Vanuatu Printed by APOL. Find us on Facebook www.facebook.com/pacificislandliving, Twitter

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COPYRIGHT All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. Articles express the opinions of the author and not necessarily those of Nauru Airlines, Tourism Fiji or Pacific Island Living.

islandliving | 3 paciďŹ c

Check out our review of Sandcastles, the book du jour for fans of coastal decorating, See page 50.

CONTENTS 15

0 2 r e m m u S 8

11

13

14

20

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BEACHCOMBER This issue we feature a new

28

STYLE+DÉCOR – SEASON’S GIFTING

range of Fijian hand-painted fashion prints, beach

Olivia Waugh takes a look at stylish gifts for the festive

towels in the round and a simple but sophisticated new

season and wraps up the looks everyone wants from

Port Vila beachside bar.

sandals to sunglasses, sun hats to sound advice.

BOOK LOOK Georgie Gordon revisits her inner

30

RESORT REPORT Fiji’s Yasawa Island Resort and

teenager and recommends the best of young adult

Spa has been called the most romantic resort in Fiji,

fiction for all ages.

with each day a ‘massage for the soul and spirit’.

NET ASSETS Our pick of the websites we love. This

31

PACIFIC EPICURE Breaka’s Beach Resort in Port

time we look at a selection of sites for the sybarite in all

Vila has a new chef in residence and the whole town’s

of us that feature art food, travel and wine.

talking about him – in Italian.

ART SMART – THE ART OF FOOD

34

PHOTO ESSAY Travel is supposed to broaden the

We all like eating, and art through the ages has

mind and open doors on to new worlds. The slightly un-

celebrated food in every conceivable way from the

hinged Craig Osment goes door to door and pokes his

graphic to the classic.

lens into some European entrances.

PACIFIC PULSE Our round up of Pacific happenings and this time, we check out ‘dental tourism’ at Vanuatu’s

38

FASHION FLASH – PARTY PIECES UNDER THE PALMS Olivia Waugh hits the party circuit

high tech Novo Dental clinic, Fiji’s booming tourism

dressed to impress, pumps come up trumps so get

numbers and fishing in Nauru.

down and boogie this festive season.

The easiest place

on the planet

to relax your swing.

We know that the secret to playing your best golf is to stay calm and collected. That’s why they say Fiji is a golfing paradise, because it’s easy to hit your best shot when there’s a steady sea breeze and breathtaking views to take in. We’ve got world-class courses teed up for players of any skill level. Go to www.fiji.travel to find out more.

www.fiji.travel islandliving | 5 pacific

44

FISH SOUP Tiffany Carroll experiences a watery reawakening in the seas of the Solomon Islands where improbably the underwater scenery gets more spectacular by the day. .

50

ABODE Tim Neve’s new book Sandcastles showcases the re-use of found objects and vintage wares in the creation of inspiring coastal and island interiors.

54

GIVE US A BREAK The Federated Sates of Micronesia have been home to a secret for some time, don’t tell anyone, but it’s SURF, and plenty of it.

60

BEAUTY The buzz is nostalgia as Georgie Gordon looks back through the decades for today’s inspiration.

62

HEALTH Dietary additions in the form of vitamin supplements may not be essential if your diet is completely balanced.

64

SIMPLY SARDINES Christiana Kaluscha unpacks the pilchards because she believes everyone should be eating the humble sardine.

69

INVESTMENT ADVICE Gayle Stapleton reveals the key strategic aspects of getting started on a life and career in the Pacific.

74

LONG DISTANCE LOVE AFFAIR Craig Osment revisits the south of France and finds that there’s everything you’d expect within a day’s drive but best to linger longer.

84

FORGOTTEN ISLANDS Sally Macmillan sets off on the luxurious cruise ship National Geographic Orion on an unforgettable trip to Indonesia’s ‘forgotten’ islands.

92

GLORIOUS GARDENS Gardening editor, Carolyn Ernst has finally planted her vegetable garden and has plenty of advice for tropical gardeners on what to do for best results for garden-to-plate success.

Top: Diving in the Federated States of Micronesia has been declared perfect and private by Keri Algar, see page 32. Middle: Rousseau is just one of the many painters throughout history to celebrate food in art, page14.

Bottom: A komodo dragon on Indonesia’s ‘forgotten’ island see more on page 84

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VISITOR INFORMATION FAQs about the practicalities of Pacific travel, from getting around to getting the language.

100 PAR AVION Our new back page takes a light-hearted look at travel, this issue Toby Preston ventures abroad with the hoard and observes some curious national wardrobe trends along the way.

Find Us on Denarau Island. Book at your Resort / Hotel Tour Desk T: 675 1288 E: info@adrenalinfiji.com

www.adrenalinfiji.com

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Beachcomber Every issue we bring you the news, views, people, products and places from all around the Pacific.

FEET IN THE SAND, COCKTAIL IN HAND A cocktail of delights awaits on the shores of Fatumaru Bay in Port Vila at the new Banyan Beach Bar which has transformed Vanuatu’s seaside drinking scene.

This is simple island sophistication at its best, lounge with your toes in the sand while enjoying a ‘rum in a shell’ (VT700) and a box of sliders served right on the beach while you’re reclining in a four-poster netted daybed or nestled in a colourful coconut wood armchair a few feet from the water’s edge.

The bar is the brainchild of the owners of the adjacent Chantilly’s On The Bay hotel and restaurant, indeed the food is delivered from their renowned kitchen in witty little white cardboard boxes which perfectly suit the food offering. It’s sliders and sliders (during the day), with a choice of three for VT1200 they are delicious and great value and the perfect accompaniment to a huge range of cocktails in jars (VT1000) like a Bearded Redneck, Berocca Colada, Stolen Mojito or Smashed Boozy Lemonade as well as beers and wines.

Open from midday until 11pm makes it a great casual lunch choice, a venue for sunset cocktails or hangout for

evening drinks and snacks when they also do barbecues in the garden. Think of it as sort ‘day resort’ in the tradition of KuDeTa in Bali but with a sense of humour – I’m sure the signs encouraging the imbibing of alcohol might not meet the ‘responsible service of alcohol’ standards of less free jurisdictions but hey we’re adults and it’s fun. After all it’s a place to lie back and relax, take a dip, take a sip and chill out to your heart’s content.

BONDI MEETS NADI Bondi Beach Bag Co is an International Fashion Company which offers modern and unique styles for products including resort wear fashion and kaftans, custom designed hand bags and unique hats.

Tracey Farrington has been a fashion designer for 30 years, graduating from East Sydney school of fashion. Her passion and style is chic casual beach life style living, her expertise is in design, manufacture, wholesale, retail and retail merchandising, she works on a total vision concept from original sketches through to the end user.

SENSATIONAL SONAM Fijian-born, hand painted textile designer Sonam Sapra has teamed up with Australian based company WILLIS to bring you exotic, hand painted, printed and sewn custom garments 100% manufactured in Fiji.

Follow WILLIS’s progression at www.facebook.com/ sonamdesigns to stay updated on the official launch of the WILLIS website featuring Sonam’s ‘animalistic tropics’-themed painted prints applied to lingerie, bathing suits, active and yoga wear. Fijian fashion rocks!

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Beachcomber And if you have anything that’s worth knowing about, get in touch and let us in on the secret.

Tracey moved to live in Fiji five years ago, when her life partner Tom Liu encouraged her to make the big move away from her beloved Bondi Beach.

“I actually love the Fijian lifestyle and have no regrets being in Fiji since then,” Tracey said.

“Our target market is middle to upper end, we offer high perceived value at affordable prices.”

Bondi Beach Bag Co is also a major supplier to Australia’s leading department stores and boutiques, you will find Bondi Beach Bag Co in every David Jones and Myer nationally. They supply over 40,000 pieces between July to December each year, this year with a 30% increase from David Jones and 20% increase from Myer.

Fiji Beach Boutique is the latest addition to the fashion boutique range, located in the magnificent First Landing Beach Resort at Vuda Beachfront.

“At Fiji Beach Boutique we are aware many people come to Fiji for weddings so we have added cocktail and evening wear and a fun selection of products for hens nights to the collection,” Tracey said.

Find Tracey’s collection at the Nadi Farmers Club too.

GETTING ROUND ON THE BEACH The press release says: “Rhyees and Giarne, a brother and sister duo, combine their extensive history of fashion, travel, public relations, marketing, styling, photography and graphic design to create Beach Bella.” That’s a pretty exhausting list of talents and skills but the result is original and fun … and round!

Beach Bella is known for its luxurious round beach towels featuring exclusive prints at an affordable price. Described as “transeasonal must-haves, which are functionally unique and versatile. They can be used as a statement throw, yoga towel, picnic mat or feature piece. They are made from 100% cotton terry and measuring 150cm in diameter.”

The collection includes an array of prints including

Pineapples to exude tropical and summer vibes, inspired by a paradise getaway featuring vibrant pops of colour. Anchor print, which is inspired by traditional nautical heritage and offers an effortless and minimalistic style. I Need Vitamin Sea print that is an Aztec inspired design, which embodies the strength of Aztec warriors mixed with traditional art to showcase the aura of summer. Beach Please print for those who opt for a cheeky outlook on life but love to be chic and classic in navy.

Japanese Waves print, which is a modern take on traditional Japanese art that ‘symbolises strength and life’.

These round towels are the perfect beach essential. Selfindulge with Beach Bella and remember to share with the world. See: www.beachbella.com.au

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Book look: SUMMER READING Georgie Gordon revisits her inner teenager and checks out what’s on offer on the ‘young adult’ fiction shelves.

HOW TO BE HAPPY |

by David Burton As a teenager David Burton was convinced he wasn’t normal, in this funny, sad and serious memoir he tells how he longed for a girlfriend but his first date was a disaster, there’s the catastrophe of the school swimming carnival and friendships that take devastating turns. Dealing with themes of depression, friendship, sexual identity, academic pressure, love and adolescent confusion, this brave and honest account of a young man’s search for a happy, true and meaningful life will resonate with readers young and old. Published by Text.

THE SINGING BONES |

by Shaun Tan In this beautifully presented volume, the essence of seventy-five fairy tales by the Brothers Grimm is wonderfully evoked

by Shaun Tan’s extraordinary sculptures.

Nameless princes, wicked stepsisters, greedy kings, honourable peasants and ruthless witches, tales of love, betrayal, adventure and magical transformation; all inspiration for this stunning gallery of sculptural works.

Introduced by Grimm Tales author Philip Pullman, The Singing Bones breathes new life into some of the world’s most beloved fairy tales. Published by Allen & Unwin.

INBETWEEN DAYS |

by Vikki Wakefield At seventeen, Jacklin Bates is all grown up. She’s dropped out of school, she’s living with her runaway sister, Trudy, and she’s in secret, obsessive love with Luke, who doesn’t love her back.

Jack’s father moves into the shed and her mother steps up her campaign to punish Jack for leaving too, plus Jack’s only friend, Astrid, has done something unforgivable.

Jack is losing everything, including her mind it feels. As she struggles to hold onto the life she thought she wanted, Jack learns that growing up is complicated—and love might be the biggest mystery of all. Great for anyone that appreciates a good love story. Published by Text Publishing.

A LOVE LIKE BLOOD |

by Marcus Sedgwick Marcus Sedgwick is a widely admired and critically acclaimed young adult fiction writer who has won over thirty awards. A Love Like Blood is a gripping tale of love, revenge and obsession and his first novel for adults.

“And so I took the first step on a journey from which there would be no return; a path that led me to fear, to hatred and to revenge – but, above all else, to blood.” As the title suggests there is one reoccurring theme to this novel, blood. Not for the faint hearted this captivating read begins with an English soldier eavesdropping on a man drinking blood from a murdered woman. Published by Hachette.

SILENCE IS GOLDFISH |

by Annabel Pitcher Tess reads something on her father’s blog that changes her life irrevocably.

How she deals with her discovery makes for an entirely riveting and heartbreaking story told though Tess’s eyes as she tries to find her place in the world. “At primary school when people tried to find friends, I tried to find space that my imagination could fill with whatever it wanted – nearly always butterflies, because to me they were perfection, like real-life fairies, with prettier wings.” Silence is Goldfish will have you reminiscing about your teens and appreciating your adult life through fresh eyes. This is the third YA (young adult) novel

by Pitcher. Published by Hachette.

SABRIEL | by Garth Nix You can’t discuss young adult fiction without including a good fantasy series.

If you loved Game Of Thrones you’ll love Sabriel, it has as many disturbing themes but is a much better written succession of stories this being the first. Sabriel has little experience with the power of Free Magic or the Dead, who refuse to stay dead in the Old Kingdom, however when her father, the Abhorsen goes missing she must enter the Old Kingdom to find him. The series has won many fans by departing from the conventional form of fantasy. Young and old readers alike will appreciate the themes of loss of family and coming to terms with oneself, not to mention the pure escapism. Published by Allen & Unwin. islandliving | 11 pacific

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Net assets: The Good Life…

Art, travel, food and wine, Georgie Gordon scans the indulgent end of the web.

WINE. ALL THE TIME. You don’t need to be an oenophile (wine aficionado) or a sommelier to appreciate good wine, Marissa Ross proves this on her approachable blog where there is a decided lack of phrases regarding ‘floral notes’ and ‘residual sugar’. The extent of her experience is that she ‘drinks wine, all the time’, however her wine reviews are enthusiastic, informative and quite often very funny. Ross is also a comedy writer and it shows, with her refreshing insights and entertaining tasting notes including ‘Lay’s Potato Chips dipped in carbonated rose gold’ for a particularly enjoyable Brut Rosé.

Also, there’s something to be said about her complete lack of pretention. wine-allthetime.com 12HRS A travel guide site with a difference, 12hrs provides condensed itineraries that squeeze the best of a city into a day. The fashion forward cofounders Anna and Søren recommend uncharted boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bars with an emphasis on off-the-beaten-track, high style and design focused destinations. There are guides for Barcelona, Helsinki, London and Marseille to name a few. A day in Berlin will see you having coffee at 10am at a trendy café, followed by a visit to a Turkish market and eventually putting your head down at affordable but uber chic boutique hotel. Great for those who wish to really experience a city and avoid the tourist traps.

12hrs.net GUGGENHEIM If you’re looking for a cultural fix but don’t have the means or time to experience them first hand, many major museums and galleries around the world are expanding their audience by going online. The Guggenheim Collection Online offers a searchable database of selected artworks from the Guggenheim’s permanent collection of over 7,000 pieces of art including works from Venice, the Bilbao Museum and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Browse by date, movement, artist or just get lost wandering the virtual halls. Others worth checking out are The Tate and Museum of Modern Art, New York. guggenheim.org

VANELJA A finalist in the Saveur Blog Awards design category Vanelja is as much a feast for the eyes as (potentially) the stomach.

Described as ‘a love letter to authentic food, natural flavours and good life’ this blog focuses on healthy food alternatives through well-tested recipes using quality ingredients. Think glutenfree Banoffee Muffins and Pistachio Fig Smoothies, all photographed beautifully. The demonstration videos are worth checking out as is the beauty section for delicious DIY creations such as Lavender Bath Bombs and Vanilla Body Cream. vanelja.com LOVE, CAKE Not quite as healthy as Vanelja but equally as beautiful is this baking blog. Love, Cake’s author was formally a food editor at Good Housekeeping but now devotes herself full time to writing this blog and her first cook book. Browsing through the recipes on this site will have you drooling over the likes of Strawberry Jam Doughnuts, Portuguese Custard Tarts with Passionfruit and Blueberries and Butterscotch Blondies. The recipes are easy to follow and are accompanied by equally sweet stories and musings from Sam and stunning photographs. ovecommacake.com MAN REPELLER Fashion bloggers are now often referred to as ‘digital influencers’ such is their sway in persuading their audience to buy the next big thing. It can start to seem a bit transparent when your favourite online fashionista is flagrantly flogging goods for money, but despite this there are still some fashion forward chicks worthy of a follow. Lendra Medine of Man Repeller is one of those, the name comes from her being partial to such man repelling sartorial choices such as harem pants, overalls, boyfriend jeans and clogs, but really she is one of the coolest and most interesting style makers in the business. manrepeller.com

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art smart

Culinary Creativity e m a r f e h t in Food

From Rembrandt to Rousseau food has featured in art for centuries and is now a common kitchen decoration and much more affordable.

Toby Preston finds food in many forms and finishes to hang on your walls.

W

e eat it every day, we read about it, we admire its presentation on the plate, we grow it and we pay big money to have it delivered to our tables, so it’s no wonder we also take some pleasure from regarding it on our walls. And, after all its myriad shapes, sizes and colours make for an irresistible subject for artists and photographers.

In my days as an art student I seem to recall being slightly less enthralled by the assignments which involved painting a bowl of oranges in oils but then I was hoping for a career in graphic design rather than providing images for fruit crate labels – which I now see for the wonderfully graphic pieces of art they are. And if it was good enough for Rousseau and Rembrandt who was I, an unremarkable student painter, to disagree. On the topic of Rembrandt (not featured here) his most famous food painting is probably his 1655 Slaughtered Ox which is a highly confronting picture

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It was during the Renaissance that the still life paintings of food really took off due to the admiration for meticulous detail in that period.

of an eviscerated ox carcass hanging in less than hygienic conditions but if you happen to be a butcher it might be just the work for you. Personally I prefer Henri Rousseau’s typically graphic and colourful Nature Morte aux Fruits Tropicaux, (1908) which passes the dining room wall taste test.

From cold meats to cakes, artists from Cravaggio to Warhol have painted the makings of their meals in every medium imaginable and in these days of ‘food porn’, Facebook and Instagram, everyone is posting pics of their dining experiences for the world to salivate over.

There is a long tradition dating from Roman times when it was common for a bowl of fruit to be included in paintings as a sort status symbol of the rich to show off the bounty of their pantries and as an example of their generous hospitality. Even earlier examples are to be found in cave paintings on the walls of the pyramids when it was thought that a little nourishment in the afterlife might be useful for the dead pharaohs.

But it was during the Renaissance that the still life paintings of food really took off due to the admiration for meticulous

Far Left: Cracking good egg art by Australian artist Margaret R. Zanetti, sorry this one’s on my kitchen wall. Top left:1931 French advertising poster from Vintage European Posters. Top right: Poster for Italian food fair. Above left: Rousseau’s Nature Morte aux Fruits Tropicaux. Left:Pineapple print wall clock from www.zazzle.com.au AU$55.95. Above: why not make your own? Just pick up your camera and shoot your breakfast.

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Above: Vegetable crate label, search the image on the net and have it printed, even the most prosaic subjects can look good on the wall. Left: Andy Warhols Velvet Underground banana, poster prints available from Amazon. com for US$8.31 plus shipping. Above right: Vermouth Bianco poster by Marcello Dudovich from www.hotstuffdropship.com for only US$3.75. Right the very popular Razzia pasta poster, this one signed by the artist and mounted on linen for US$500 from www.indianriverposterco.com but can be found at other poster suppliers in different sizes and prices. Far right: this really is art, Rory McEwen who died in 1982 was a multitalented English artist who was known for his musical performances, as a singer, as a television performer, sculptor and ultimately and principally as a master botanical painter.

This fine giclĂŠe print measures 27x22cm and is available for ÂŁ95 from www.shopkew.org

detail in paintings in that period when scientific examination of everyday inanimate objects became a meme for artists and their wealthy clients whose lavish table displays became sought after subjects.

In more recent times many renowned artists have glorified food in their works, Paul Cezanne’s Still Life with Fruit Basket and Vincent Van Gogh’s still lifes of carafes, quinces and lemons through to Ralph Goings’ rather prosaic seeming A-1 Sauce which depicts a tabletop collection of condiment bottles, and of course Andy Warhol’s soup cans, hot dogs, Coke bottles and bananas are known to everyone and have inspired copycat works featuring everything from Marmite jars to Nutella containers.

The good news for any of you wanting to start a collection of food art for your kitchen or dining room is that there is a lot of free stuff available out there on the internet along with many affordable posters and limited edition prints. So take a look at the menu and decide whether it’s to be just an entrée or the full degustation – the better news is none of this is fattening either!

‘The good news for any of you wanting to start a collection of food art for your kitchen or dining room is that there is a lot of free stuff’

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Pacific Pulse Pacific news and events. Holiday dental treatments and another award for Fiji.

SOMETHING TO SMILE ABOUT Medical tourism and Vanuatu – two thoughts not usually seen as entirely compatible, after all, the expats’ lament is infamously ‘Got a pain? Get on a plane’.

But that’s changed insofar as dentistry is concerned; increasingly tourists and part-time expats are making dental appointments to coincide with their trips to Port Vila. As one of the latter group, I recently chose to have some sophisticated dental work done by Novo Dental, rather than by a couple of Sydney specialists, with impressive results.

Firstly their harbour side clinic has to be the cleanest, most hygienically pristine space in the entire country. It’s gleaming white interior is littered with state of the art German equipment and peopled by helpful, professional staff who seem to be reassuringly efficient from first contact. Best of all this is a onestop-shop. Rather than traipsing about Sydney from specialist to specialist (and paying AU$75 just for parking in Macquarie Street somewhere vaguely adjacent to my orthodontist), I park at the door and walk to towards views of Port Vila’s spectacular harbour and ‘enjoy’ (if that’s the word) an hour of pain-free multi extraction treatment at a far lesser cost than in the so-called first world.

I was treated by Dr Felipe Lemos (pictured right), the inspiration behind a team of Brazil-trained colleagues who have revolutionised dental care in the Pacific. First up an x-ray seems to take around ten seconds to appear on a monitor sitting ahead of the patient, then a full explanation of what’s to be done and advice on further treatment. After being painlessly numbed, two teeth were gone in 60 seconds and I was astounded to have felt nothing but a predicted ‘little pressure’. Two days later I was back for a crown preparation on another molar.

My memories of this procedure ‘back home’ were of biting down for some time on a large lump of latex or similar to make an impression of the tooth to be replicated then a lot of drilling and scouring before the application of a temporary crown and then a week or two later a return visit for the final fitting of a faux tooth created in some laboratory in the next suburb.

In my case there was no need of the temporary bit and the next day I returned for the fitting of the high-tech crown made of Zirconia which is also I was told by Felipe the same material used in the brakes of the world’s fastest road car, the Bugatti Veyron, an interesting factoid for someone with an interest in cars. If it’s good enough to pull up a Bugatti from 400kph then

I’m happy to try it out on a veal chop that night. And it was.

It’s all about the technology (in both the car and the clinic), Novo Dental uses the most up to date machinery available and instead of chewing on rubber for a mould, they employ a hand held scanner to create a digital impression of the area which also records an accurate colour match, this transmits directly to a computer monitor which then magically processes the information so that it can be fed into a milling machine called a CORiTEC 250i for those dental savants who need this sort of detail.

The end result is that the tooth is ‘manufactured’ overnight, hardened, shaped and installed, all within 24 hours. And with the added bonus of the world’s best view from a dental couch, not mention the company of a charming, amusing, reassuring and wonderfully proficient dentist. I’m coming back soon for veneers and implants, can’t wait!

PS for holiday makers, they also do a great line in LED express whitening which will see you back home with a six to ten times brighter smile. And in case of emergencies, provide a 24-hour service. Find them at Anchor House on the main street at the southern end of town. Email: reception@novodental.net or check their website for full details at www.novodental.net - Toby Preston

FIJI RESORT DOES IT AGAIN Likuliku Lagoon Resort has again been awarded, for the fourth time, the ‘Best Fijian Property’ in the 2015 Hotel management Awards.

The winners were announced in front of a record crowd of 600 people in the Sydney Town Hall. The event was hosted

by TV personality Lisa Wilkinson and recognises the industry’s finest properties across Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific.

Since its opening in 2007, the 100% Fijian family-owned resort has been consistently recognised for its luxury overwater and island beach accommodations, leading edge cuisine and unparalled service delivery.

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Restaurant Open Daily from 11.00am Please Phone 35560 for information

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Pacific Pulse Fishing off Nauru, a new pharmacy in Vila and Fiji tourism booms.

BIG FISH OFF THE SMALL ISLAND Nauru is known to be situated in one of the best fishing grounds on earth. The unique depths of up to 2000 meters just from the shores of the island attract big game fishing species such as Yellow fin tuna, Marlin, Wahoo, Sail fish and more. All can be caught year round.

Equatorial Gamefishing Charters offer the best fishing experience you can have in Nauru. Charters are booked on a daily basis, scheduled for half and full day trips.

Both fishing boats, Big Day Out and True Blue are fully equipped with the best fishing gear on the island. Captain Gavin is known to be the fishing master and deckhand Peter as the game fishing guru. All crew members are very professional and experienced.

Equatorial Gamefishing Charters is the longest running fishing charter business on the island, established in 2000. Big game fishing names such as Captain Tim Dean and Bushy have travelled multiple times to Nauru to experience their services.

Over the years, a number of boats have been retired and replaced with a new fleet including the 6.2m Bar Crusher ( Big Day Out) and 7m Australian Master Marine (True Blue). Both boats accommodate up to 5 people at a time.

For rates, enquiries and booking please contact Equatorial Gamefishing Charters’ main office at Capelle Partner.

Phone #: (674) 557 1001 or (674)5571008

VISITOR ARRIVALS REACH RECORD NUMBERS

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1 7 M AY

Visitor arrivals to Fiji reached a record number of 415,011 for the month of January to July this year. This is according to figures provided by the Fiji Bureau of Statistics, which noted a 9.4 per cent increase from 379,427 arrivals recorded for the same corresponding months last year.

The increase is a good sign for the tourism industry and a positive indication for the year ahead, according to Tourism Fiji.

Tourism Fiji global public relations manager Patricia Mallam said the increase in visitor arrivals illustrated the tourism industry was growing and that Tourism Fiji’s strategic marketing campaigns had been effective in getting more visitors to Fiji.

For the first seven months of this year, Australia dominated the most arrivals with 198,051, about 47.7 per cent of the total arrivals figure.

This was a 4.5 per cent increase from 189,499 arrivals when compared with the figures recorded for the same seven months last year.

New Zealand maintained its place after Australia with 72,780 arrivals compared with 64,160 for the same months last year.

The increases in chartered flights and new routes, had also been a contributing factor to the increasing visitor arrivals.

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NEW PHARMACY ON CALL IN PORT VILA A new Healthwise Pharmacy has opened opposite the Waterfront Bar in Port Vila, bringing a wealth of medical experience to Vanuatu’s capital.

Operated by Olivier Meneau, who has over 25 years experience in tropical medicine, the new pharmacy has the leading range of healthcare products in the country. The new pharmacist, with over 25 years experience, is from Tahiti Mr. Meneau is working closely with local doctors in Port Vila and is available for patient inquiries 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

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Leap into the magical le cascades

Leap into the magical le cascades www.vanuatu.travel | #Discovervanuatu

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Lumira Tropical Gardenia destination candle, $59 and travel candle, $20 www.atelierlumira.com

Rag & Bone at Net-A-Porter, Straw Panama hat, $270 www.net-a-porter.com

Ancient Greek Sandals, Clio leather and glitter $235 www.mytheresa.com

Seasons Gifting g n i v i g h t r

gifts wo

As it’s summer and Christmas falls mid season, it’s time to give. Olivia Waugh rounds up her favourite gift ideas for the warm festive weather.

The Daily Edited, navy passport holder, $69.95 and tan leather luggage tag, $54.95 thedailyedited.com Globe-Trotter at Net-A-Porter, Safari 30” leather-trimmed fiberboard travel trolley, $2,644.18 www.net-aporter.com

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All prices Australian dollars unless otherwise stated.

Dear September Rasberry Turkish blanket, $120 dearseptember.com.au

Rayban at Sunglass Hut Icons, $209.95 www.sunglasshut.com

Polaroid Zip Mobile Photo printer, $130 www.urbanoutfitters.com

BeoPlay A2 Portable Bluetooth speaker, US$400 www.fancy.com

Fornasetti at Farfetch, fish serving set, $364.96 www.farfetch.com

Market Bag at Revolve Clothing, $80.32 www.revolveclothing.com.au

“The World of Private Islands” Edited by Farhad Vladi, $61 Teneues www.stylebop.com

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resorts we love

Getacaesroom to stay pl

Our favourite resort accommodation and restaurants.

1

Yasawa Island Resort and Spa It’s been called the most romantic resort in Fiji, with each day a ‘massage for the soul and spirit’.

And it seems the accoldaes are entirely justified in this case.

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This award winning resort offers just 18 luxurious bungalows and 10 private beaches.

All bures have outdoor showers and private beachfront cabanas and private dining and beach picnics are the norm.

With 18 villas and 10 private beaches, romance is assured.

And if that’s not enough – enjoy a spa treatment or two.

Oh, did we mention arrival and departure is by 30-minute private plane transfers?

Absolute bliss.

W: www.yassawa.com

restaurants we love

PacifilacceEpicure t a e o t s p

Breakas Beach Resort There’s a simple equation for getting an adults onlyresort right – privacy, service and food.

Breaka’s Beach Resort in Port Vila also happens to be set on a magnificent white sand and coral beach and enjoys stunning sunsets and now, thanks to famed Brisbane chef Mario Alfieri (formerly of The Dining Room, Hendra), five star dining.

Mario is the executive chef-come assistant manager-come entertainer.

He greets all guests like old friends and if you’re lucky may even serenade you after cooking what will be, without

doubt, the best Italian food in the South Pacific.

Breaka’s Resort offers waterfront dining, perfect for romantic evenings as well as weddings and other functions.

Mario’s food is fresh, with local seafood and Vanuatu’s renowned beef on the menu.

However it’s his Italian fare including mouth-watering buffalo cheese, air freighted regularly from Italy that keeps diners returning night after night.

And he’s quick to point out his cheese isn’t just any old Italian cheese – the best buffalo cheese comes from within 70 miles of Rome.

Anything else is a poor substitute, he says.

Mario’s seafood marinara is known as the best ever and comes with prawns, mussels, fish, lobster – enough of a meal in itself, but it’s the sauce that my

companions were raving about.

Don’t miss the eggplant parmigiana either.

Open seven days.

Phone +678 23670.

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Offering a stunning range of Vanuatu stamps and first day covers for collectors or as souvenirs available for purchase online

Featuring beautiful photographs and illustrations of Vanuatu

At Hideaway Island Resort’s marine sanctuary you will find the world’s first underwater post office. You can post Underwater Post postcards to family and friends as a unique souvenir of your Vanuatu holiday!

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www.vanuatupost.vu

events

everything on our menu is

gluten free!

Every Tuesday night (3000VT)

even our baked chocolate cheesecake

e coffe best e h t t s ve mo We ha ne of the ed and o nable pric n reaso sts in tow fa ..... break .................... .. .. .. ......

Balls , Raw eas s d a l T Sa erbal and H

BOOKINGS ESS ENTIAL

check out our ...

menu cusine!

100% local

• Kava • Local food • Custom Danc es • string band

free fire show

every satur day night @ 7pm Sunday – Ha ppy hour all day and 1500V Pi zzas

Only 5 minute ride from the Port Vila Post Office For more information: T: 23696 or E: info@coconutpalms.vu or ask one of our friendly team members.

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Photo Essay

Portal Portfolio Travel is supposed to broaden the mind and open doors on to new worlds. The slightly un-hinged Craig Osment goes door to door and pokes his lens into some European entrances.

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Memorable Magical Moments

On the picturesque shores of Mele Bay, Island Magic Resort offers fantastic four-star value for fully self-contained bungalows set within lushly landscaped grounds with direct access to the sea, inground pool and on-site restaurant. Perfect for couples or families.

Photography by Leith Campbell

Contact Gerry or Jan Smelik T: +678 29 015 M: +678 774 6386 E: info@islandmagicresort.com W: www.islandmagicresort.com

VANUATU ARTISAN JEWELLERS SINCE 1981 Available at selected stores in Port Vila and online www.vanuatujewellery.com Contact: sales@vanuatubijouterie.com | (678) 7768750 | Find us on Facebook: Vanuatu Bijouterie - Fine Jewellery

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Smart Casual Italian “Fusion” Dining & Bar Eat • Drink • Swim • Massage Degustation Lunches | Weddings & Functions Cooking Classes | Live music on Sundays 2pm-5pm Open Tuesday to Sunday 11am – 8pm Located at Havannah Harbour 30 min from Port Vila

mobile. +678 7719898 email. gm@francescas.com.vu website. www.francescas.com.vu

Fr a n c e s c a ’ s Italian Restaurant & Bar

SARANGKITA Sarangkita is sophisticated simplicity at its elegant best. A private beach front villa with luxuriant gardens and intimate boutique accommodation for adults-only.

The ulimate private tropical beachside holiday and a culinary delight.

Whitesands, Efaté, Vanuatu.

T: +678 26 108 M: +678 775 1793 E: info@sarangkita.com W: www.sarangkita.com

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Party Pieces r

fashion flash

Unde ms the pal Olivia Waugh goes through the wardrobe for the season’s best party wear.

Time to put on the pumps or shake your booties.

M&S Collection, Poppy Label Pin, £9.50 www.marksandspencer.com

Jennifer Fisher at net-a-porter, Medium Bow gold-plated cuff, $824.32 www.net-a-porter.com

Zara Combination sneakers, USD $49.90 www.zara.com

Prices in AUD unless otherwise stated

JCrew Dragongly earrings, $155.10 www.jcrew.com

White long sleeve Oxford casual shirt, £2 www.topman.com

Sophia Webster at Farfetch, ‘Lola’ gemstone pumps, $891.16 www.farfetch.com

Woven clutch, Caffe at Revolve Clothing, $454.22 www.revolveclothing.com.au

H&M Linen suit trousers, $39.95 www.hm.com Self Portrait at Matches Fashion, azaelea floral lace midi dress, $391 www.matchesfashion.com

Shore Projects at ASOS canvas strap watch with interchangeable strap mechanism $236.65 www.asos.com

Recreational Studio, monogram me leather strap bracelet, $49.00 and thin woven knot leather bracelet, $49.00 www.recreationalstudio.com

By Charlotte at Haute To Have lotus little Buddha long necklace $145 www.haute-tohave.com

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Island Adventure

FISH SOUP ! e v i D ! e !Div Dive

Tiffany Carroll experiences a watery reawakening in the seas of the Solomon Islands where improbably the underwater scenery gets more spectacular by the day.

She’s already packing for the return visit.

PICTURE: Joanna O’Shea. joshea.smugmug.com

Is this for real, or is it bouillabaisse? The sheer numbers of fish is almost unbelievable and it gets better with every dive.

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T

he best moments in life are unexpected pleasures. From a Sunday afternoon with friends that turns into a Sunday night, to finding a fantastic café, meeting a new friend or, in my case, falling in love with diving again.

Let me start by saying I’m a fair-weather diver, I spent three years diving the amazing SS President Coolidge in Santo, Vanuatu, but if the vis wasn’t perfect, if the seas weren’t calm, if the sky wasn’t blue, I wasn’t going.

So an invitation to dive with the Solomon Islands live-aboard Bilikiki was greeted with a bit of a ‘meh’ attitude from me.

You see, I thought I’d seen it all. Clown fish, anemone, barracuda, black tip reef sharks (hey, I’d seen four), a turtle (yes, just one), a grouper (he was 200kg, so that’s something) and a moray eel.

My friend Angela sold the trip to me however – ‘It’s more of an eating and drinking cruise than a dive cruise,’ she said.

I was in.

The MV Bilikiki is a 125-foot long ship, comfortably accommodating 20 passengers in private air-conditioned rooms all with ensuites.

We arrived at the Honiara Yacht Club at around 1730 on a Friday and were loaded into a dinghy and taken to the ship.

After seeing our rooms all 16 passengers were invited to the top deck for drinks and nibbles.

From the moment we board (cheese and biscuits, nuts and dips) to dinner (lasagna, salad and an amazing lime cheese cake) there is food, glorious food.

The informal evening gave me an opportunity to chat to my fellow passengers – several of whom were non-divers, others decked out in every bit of dive gear imaginable from computers to reef hooks, cameras to torches.

1000 dives and pumped

Then I met Pam; a long-term expat who told me it was her 75th trip on the Bilikiki.

I’m sorry – 75th?

“Yeah, I just love it.” No sh#t Pam! Pam would be the first up each morning, keen as mustard to get in the water. She’s done over 1000 dives in the Solomon Islands and is as excited as a school kid each time she comes back from a dive.

That was amazing, she says. Lots of little this and large that.

This time the trip is full of mainly Honiara residents – teachers, NGO and construction workers. For many, this is not their first trip – for all, it will not be their last.

We’re all envious of Pam’s enthusiasm, but as one of the teachers on board says, the Bilikiki is also a rest and relaxation cruise with a bit of diving thrown in.

My first dive early Saturday morning is at Petrol Point. The reef is full of colour, with bright purple gorgonian fans, anemone, starfish, sea cucumber, baby barracuda, triggerfish, clown fish and then the good stuff. Black tip reef sharks and spotted eagle rays.

And not just one or two – this is more of a soup than a reef

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Above: One of the gorgeous local kids paddling traditional canoes

with more fish than I have ever seen. At one point I am gently waving the fish away from me so I can see beyond the reef.

The next dive is Passage Rock, where there are more sharks, yellow fin tuna, Spanish mackerel and strong currents.

I’m glad for the all-weathered divers around me and the ‘reef hook’ which keeps me stable as we watch peak hour traffic in the form of thousands of fish swimming by the reef.

At lunch I notice Daniella, the Bilikiki’s on board manager looking at the ocean tentatively. I think she must be bored with this life – daily diving, talking to divers, answering the same questions all-the-time.

“It’s vegetarian pizza.” ... “It’s a spotted eagle ray.” ...“I’m from Venezuela.”

But she’s not bored – she’s checking for currents and the chance of seeing manta rays.

“Okay guys – if the currents are right, we might go earlier, so I’ll just yell ‘now’ and you come diving.”

Pam is already geared up and waiting before Daniella has finished saying “okay guys”.

Daniella’s excited for us and clearly loves her job. In fact all the crew is the same. They rush to the back deck after each dive asking if we loved it. I can’t imagine they’ve ever heard ‘no’.

The after-lunch lull sees some weary divers head beneath deck for a sleep, others lounge in the galley, some are reading.

“Pam would be the first up each morning, keen as mustard to get in the water. She’s done over 1000 dives in the Solomon Islands and is as excited as a school kid each time she comes back from a dive.”

PICTURE: Joanna O’Shea. joshea.smugmug.com and Kate Coyne.

on the shallow waters. Above right: The 125-foot MV Bilikiki, beds for 20 and ensuite cabins. Below: Fish, coral, blue water – perfect!

It is a beautiful day, the view of gorgeous local kids paddling in traditional canoes on the shallow waters, the occasional fish breeching and blue skies makes it near impossible for me to resist grabbing a book and lazing on the deck for the afternoon.

“And that’s okay too,” says Daniella. “We’ve got two more dives this afternoon.”

But I’m here to dive so for the third time today I must gear up and get excited.

After a night of more glorious food and a couple of drinks we rise early, some of us a little under the weather for our first dive of the day. It is 0600 and I cannot believe I am up and ready and happy about it.

I’d never heard of the Twin Tunnels dive in the Florida Islands but judging by the excited locals on the back deck, I’m in for something special.

Oh. My. God! As Ange says to me ‘it was busier than a Chinese beach down there’.

The twin tunnels are two lava tubes that drop down to around 35 metres, bringing you out to the deep blue. It’s a little confronting for me but by the time I ascend to 20 metres I’m completely in awe of the sea. It’s Finding Nemo and the East Australian Current here with literally thousands of fish swimming through. Everything from yellow fin tuna to barracuda and black tip reef sharks.

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Above left: Looks like a coral planet except that it’s underwater. Right: Lava tubes drop down 35 metres into the deep blue.

I’m not sure if I’m slightly narced (for non divers that’s nitrogen narcosis - ed) or super excited, but I swear I hear Dory singing ‘just keep swimming, just keep swimming.’ I’m laughing with joy and high fiving my friend Sharon (not an easy task underwater) and want to stay here forever. Every time I see a shark I giggle with nervous excitement. They don’t even notice me, too busy catching a current and getting on with their business.

Back on deck I realise I’ve caught the diving bug again. I want to stay in my wetsuit and wish the surface time would fly by. I don’t even want to look at today’s afternoon tea offering (home made short bread and chocolate coconut cookies). I just want to dive.

A couple of drift dives offer more sharks, more tuna, more anemone, and more bright healthy coral than I thought possible. Everything is super sized in the Solomon Islands, from the coral bombies to the clown fish. The reef is pristine and I think how very lucky I am to be experiencing one of nature’s wonders.

Fairytale finale

Our final dive would, as expected in a fairytale, be the best.

We’re all pretty exhausted but don’t want to miss out so gear up for the final time and drop in to the ocean.

The Solomons has saved the best ‘til last. Giant rays, eagle rays, turtles, sharks, sharks and more sharks, tuna, barracuda, eels, you name it, and it was there. Again I’m laughing under water – I cannot stop. Everywhere you look there is another

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massive fish or ray. I use so much air from laughing I reluctantly have to cut the dive short. At our 5 metre safety stop another ray casually swims by and I think to myself this is a dream – it cannot be this good.

We surface and burst out laughing again, I have never experienced such joy in a ‘hobby’. We are fighting for conversation, Ange and I reliving the dive.

“And the turtle – oh my God.” ... “How about that ray? It had to be three or four metres.” ... “I lost count at about 20 sharks.” ... “And did you see the moray eel?” ... “Do you think everyone else saw what we did?” ...“When are we coming back?”

The brilliant thing about the Bilikiki is you don’t have to be a diver. Snorkelers, fishermen and non-water lovers are all welcome. The scenery each day is stunning and the opportunity to meet local Solomon Islanders through village visits or simply by hanging over the deck as they paddle up to the ship are just as amazing.

Ange was right – it’s more than a dive cruise. It is adventure, relaxation and indulgence. And if you’re really lucky, a reawakening.

Fact File

The MV Bilikiki offers 7, 10 and 14 night cruises. Packages start at $US3290 and include accommodation, airport transfers, all meals and snacks, weight belts, tanks and air fills and unlimited diving.

To book visit www.bilikiki.com

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abode

Beachcombing Beauty e l y t S e g Salva

Tim Neve’s new book Sandcastles showcases the re-use of found objects and vintage wares in the creation of inspiring coastal and island interiors that avoid the clichéd commercially produced kitsch that has become a caricature of shabby chic beachside decorating.

Below left: Against an impressive pair of practical and spare boatshed doors, a hammock introduces a ‘feminine embroidered fabric’ as contrast

T

im Neve slightly controversially says “When you hear the phrase ‘costal decorating’, I don’t blame you if you shudder. For too long faux starfish and mass-produced Gone Fishin’ signs have reigned supreme and muddied the waters of what should be the clearest, most authentic, inspiration in home styling”. In Sandcastles he has definitively purified those muddy waters by dipping into a collection of genuine vintage objects, statement pieces and salvaged flotsam to create a collection of interiors, mood boards, colour palettes and suggestions for decorating with sea-chafed rope, sun bleached wood, and old sea sponges which come together in beautifully painted rooms.

The handsomely bound and produced book is divided into five distinct and eclectic chapters – Beachcomber, Seafarer, Islander, Bohemian and Endless Summer all of which explore different elements of coastal style which is a subject he knows something about as the creative force behind Australian Coastal Style magazine.

The title is a metaphor for what Tim has found on his extensive travels of Australian coastlines and coastal houses where owners have created what he sees as their own ‘sandcastles’ which in turn conjure images of childhood memories of beachside holidays. The range of interpretation

varies from a revamped 1940s caravan on the water's edge in Frankston, Victoria to a tepee structure in the town of Bangalow in New South Wales all “lovingly created and cared for by their owners as their unique take on coastal style”.

The book is overflowing with fabulous and affordable tips on how to achieve the beachcombing ambience by using imagination and simple everyday objects in creative ways.

For example he suggests that almost threadbare old ropes can be used as room dividers by hanging lengths vertically or the re-use of fishing traps, nets and lobster pots to form light fittings, or recycling a distressed door by just standing it against a wall as an added layer of interest in a room. He proposes using wooden transport pallets and cable reels as all manner of furniture by piling them up as bedbases or coffee tables or repurposing rustic flooring as wall cladding and bedheads. Try suspending a bent piece of driftwood as a rail for pots and pans or use as a surround for a mirror or craft into a door wreath.

Even a quick flick will have you bursting to get out on the beach and start collecting.

Published by Murdoch Books and available now for AU$49.99.

to the industrial style entry. Below right: A pair of bamboo chairs sit with a delicate chandelier of shells and a boat registration sign.

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“Collecting inspiration: A walk along the shoreline can reveal a bounty of beautiful driftwood, shells and flotsam. Smooth, waveworn and faded their exquisite natural forms beg us to lift them into new life”

Left: A casual lounge created from a corner bench. Above: A cabin

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by the sea and a bed for two. Above right: A fishing net and iron bed make for serene sleep. Below: Found objects and colourful creative touches.

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island adventure

Give Me A Break , i e p n h o P for P is e s i d a r a P d n a s s P-pa The Federated Sates of Micronesia have been home to a secret for some time, don’t tell anyone, but it’s SURF, plenty of it, perfectly formed and almost completely deserted. Keri Algar finds herself alone on breaks from heaven.

H

PICTURES: Richard Kotch

is dream begins with an aerial photograph in a National Geographic magazine printed over thirty years ago.

“It was a stunning shot, taken looking down at a new runway built on top of the barrier reef, surrounded by beautiful ocean. There was a perfect right-hander peeling off the runway. I thought, what the heck is this place?

Where? There’s nothing like this in Brazil!”

For 12 years while living in Hawaii Allois Malfitani continued to wonder about this mysterious island in Micronesia. Then, as fate would have it, years later he rediscovered the same magazine. Allois took the cue, packed his bags and landed on Kosrae’s legendary airstrip.

“I thought Kosrae was idyllic and it’s probably more of an untouched paradise than Pohnpei, but it was a little too peaceful for me. So after a month I travelled to Pohnpei where I came across Palikir Pass.”

Good luck finding a surfer in the world that wouldn’t give their right arm to surf P-Pass. It ranks in the top 10 waves in the world, regarded as one of the most perfect right hand reef breaks on the planet.

The walls of Allois’ office at the Pohnpei Surf Club (PSC) are covered with framed magazine covers. Elite surfers fly in from around the world when big swells hit to score the cavernous barrel of their lives. But Allois reveals a little secret.

“It’s not always like that, you know, like 8-10 foot and crazy. Mostly we have fun-sized swells, three to six feet and P-Pass is not a difficult wave. It’s very user friendly,

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Above: Pohnpei’s deep blue waters are a playground for fishermen … bring an appetite for fish. Above right: Allois’ smile is contagious,

a mechanical wave with a perfect wall and a really makeable barrel.” His eyes light up.

It’s amusing to watch his excitement as he raves about P-Pass. “Oh yeah, I love it, you know. I don’t take it for granted. Not a single day.”

On The Water

We speed out of Pohnpei’s harbour, flanked to the west by Sokesh ridge and its massive rocky outcrop. It recalls Hawaii’s Diamond Head. Actually, the vibe in Pohnpei is a bit Aloha-like.

“This is what I imagine Hawaii could have been like fifty years ago,” I yell over the sound of the outboard motor.

With a wry smile Allois replies, “Yeah right, more like a hundred years ago!”

Despite its geographic proximity to Australia and the Philippines, Micronesia is rather inaccessible. Until June this year when Nauru Airlines expanded into the region,

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flights were prohibitively expensive and required at least one overnight stay flying in either from the north or south Pacific.

Isolation is a double-edged sword: it limits progress but at the same time curbs unchecked development that has so swiftly changed other Pacific destinations. And what can I say, at the cusp of the surf season I’m, incredibly, the only visiting surfer on Pohnpei.

Happily I’ve jagged the last day of a small summer swell at the end of September. There’s a brisk onshore wind at P-Pass, but don’t worry, says Allois, this is an island, it’s always offshore somewhere. Out of the harbour we head southeast and 15 minutes later arrive to another break in the reef with a peeling right and left-hander. We surf the right, it’s a lazy two to three feet and there’s time to enjoy the scenery and chew the fat.

“When I think about it now, it’s as if it couldn’t have been any other way. I’m here because of this mix of inspiration and

and proof of a dream realised. The Mangrove Hotel and home of the Pohnpei Surf Club (below) and surf over a ‘fish tank ‘(above).

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Above: Pohnpei is a lush volcanic island with a tonne of natural beauty. It offers reefs not beaches, waterfalls not hotel pools, and

intuition.” Plus work – the PSC is one the more organized and efficient operators I have come across on the island so far. Allois partners with the newly built Mangrove Hotel to accommodate his guests, which is also conveniently located at the harbour and boasts a typically tropical harbour-side bar. PSC’s ocean-going fleet in total packs over 1,000-horsepower, including a jet ski. Of course, it’s taken Allois over a decade to get to this point.

“I’ve had my battles, everyone does. Sometimes someone tries to bring you down. But then you remember your dream and just get on with living it.”

Today we are the only surfers on the island. I take it all in, the warm water and verdant mountains, the isolation, the cooler brimming with Budweiser and coconuts on the boat.

We agree his efforts are worth it.

Pack a sense of adventure “It’s not for everyone,” he says. Girlfriends are warned: Pohnpei is a lush volcanic island with a tonne of natural beauty. It offers reefs not beaches, waterfalls not hotel pools, and culture not shopping.

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When we arrive back at the harbour Allois asks if I’m in a rush, he’d like to show me something special. I sit behind his girlfriend, Valentina, on a jet ski, and hang on for dear life as he tears out of the marina. Whatever adrenalin we missed today in the waves Allois is making up for fast.

We fly past a flotilla of tuna purse seiners, along the causeway that connects Pohnpei’s airstrip to the island, duck under a bridge and sweep into a mangrove forest. He loosens his grip on the throttle and we cruise through the canals of the dense jungle at dusk.

If the swell is lackluster there are back ups to choose from.

Mangrove wetlands are a must see, there are impressive hikes and waterfalls, the PSC also offers diving, snorkeling, standup paddle boards, ocean based tours of Oceania’s oldest archaeological sight Nan Madol, and big (read: big) game fishing.

Coincidentally, I’m in town to catch the Eight Annual Blue Nile Fishing Tournament. The weigh in is at the Mangrove Bar. Valentina takes the lady angler prize for reeling in a 40kg blue marlin, a baby, she admits, compared the winning fish, an 87kg marlin. She also snags first for the biggest

culture not shopping. The swell season is from October to March, with the most consistent months being January and February.

species category, a 36kg yellow fin tuna. “Ah Keri,” she says, “you won’t get to taste Allois’ tuna poke before you leave tomorrow.” I fantasise about missing the flight.

Then as Allois takes leave of the bar I’m served up another torturous remark that sparks an inner crisis. “So,” he says, “tomorrow we have waves again and the wind drops off completely. It’s going to be like tap water out there. Head high and so clear that it’s like surfing over a fish tank. And I’ll be the only surfer out there…”

Can I miss my flight? Forfeit the new desk job that awaits?

On this occasion I decide to avoid the regret of leaving on the condition that I return.

When to go

The swell season stretches from October to March, with the most consistent months being January and February. At its busiest there may be an average of around 15 surfers on the island. That’s 15, not 50. And no, there’s not a single surf charter boat in the Federated States of Micronesia.

Getting there: see Nauru Airlines at www.ourairline.com.au

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Beauty Spot

Déjà View Georgie Gordon predicts nostalgia for decades past is the new beauty trend du jour. Take your hair hints from Farrah Fawcett and look no further than Brigitte Bardot for eye advice. Glam up and lay on the lippy.

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verything old is new again this season and although there are some interesting new beauty trends around (pastel hair anyone?), the key trends we are seeing this summer are unashamedly borrowed from the past. Here we step back in time through the decades and see what we’re welcoming back, after all if a certain look can help define an era then it must be good … blue eye shadow notwithstanding.

Sixties eyes

The swinging sixties brought us so many good things, the mini skirt, the bikini and eyeliner … lots and lots of it. The heavily lined upper lid and lower lash line with a cat’s eye flick was favoured by movie stars such Brigitte Bardot, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren. It is flattering as it mimics your lashes making them seem full and thick and the flick makes your eyes appear wider.

HOW TO: Achieve this retro look using liquid eyeliner for easy application and staying power. Start by applying to your upper lash line (under your eyelashes) then draw one thick line, above your lashes but as close as possible, starting from the point where your brow arch is, and stopping at the outer corner of your eye. Continue adding to this line, gradually making it thicker towards to the outer edge of the eye. Then in one fluid motion take the pen out and upwards on the corner of the line to create a flick. Apply eyeliner to the lower lash line if you want a greater effect but not if you have small eyes, as this will make them appear smaller.

Seventies hair

Beauty trends often take their cues from the fashion world and the 70s are most definitely having a fashion moment.

Brigitte Bardot (right), sixties glamour puss gives you the eye.

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Perfectly straight hair has been in vogue for so long with many of us losing hours trying to tame our locks into submission, but big hair is back and it’s time to put away your straightening iron and embrace your natural waves. Farrah Fawcett is your muse here and don’t despair if you have short hair ‘The Shag’ is one of THE ‘do’s’ this season, just ask Taylor Swift.

HOW TO: Work some volumising mousse into damp hair from roots to ends. Then tip your hair upside down and blowdry with a diffuser attachment (no brush), this will bring out its natural texture while creating volume.

Eighties colour

Eighties colour. One thing the 80s wasn’t is unassuming.

Recent make-up trends have been all about ‘barely there’, so it was inevitable that we were going to see some colour back in our lives (and on our faces) sooner or later. At New York and London Fashion weeks the Spring 2016 shows were a riot of colour make-up wise, nails and eye-lids were shimmering in all shades of blue and green and cheeks had a rosy shine, a far cry from the bronzed faces we have been seeing since the 90s.

HOW TO: the aforementioned blue eye-shadow may be good in theory, and admittedly looked fabulous on Kendall Jenner at Diane Von Furstenberg’s show, but it rarely works in real life. Instead choose a coloured mascara, green works well for brown eyes and any blue hue – think aqua, cobalt and navy – will bring out the blue in your own eyes. For your cheeks choose a peachy hue if you have pale skin and pink for those blessed with more an olive complexion. Have fun with your nails, colour is no longer just allowed for toes, and a bit of nail art won’t go astray for a special occasion.

Nineties lips

Brown lipstick is about as synonymous with the 90s as ‘The Rachael’ (from Friends, of course) haircut. It was a bit of a shock to see this one re-appear –probably because it doesn’t seem that long ago! – however matte brown lipstick will make your lips appear full, is flattering to all skin tones and aren’t we all sick of nude shiny lips anyway?

HOW TO: Lip liner is your friend here and choose one that matches the lipstick, avoid at all costs the overdrawn lips look that had it’s moment back in the day and stay within your lip line. Add a touch of highlighter in the middle of your lower lip (to make it appear fuller) and a light brush of powder once applied to set. If you have thin lips, a brown toned lip-gloss in a lighter shade is a better option.

A word of warning. By no means should all these be worn at the same time, the fastest route to clown face is too many accents at once. Instead choose one area as the focus and pare everything else back … except the hair, 70s hair should be worn at all times, forthwith.

PICTURE: Gentside

Lastly:

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healthy living

Sensible Supplements pills p o p o t n e wh

C

elebrities have them injected and there’s always a new one we’ve never heard of popping up with various health claims.

Vitamins are big business, however the best most of us manage is the occasional multi-vitamin. With a varied diet including plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, fish and protein you shouldn’t need to supplement your diet by popping pills but the reality is most people aren’t eating as well as they could, which along with other contributing factors leads to deficiencies. Vitamin and mineral supplements can be very beneficial to our health and for boosting energy levels and potentially warding off disease.

In his book The Diet Myth (Orion), Professor Tim Spector argues the source is always preferable to a supplement; eat broccoli for folate, oily fish for omega 3s and absorb sunshine for Vitamin D. Whichever way you choose to ingest them here’s our guide to what they do and where to find them

Vitamin C

is the most commonly used vitamin in the world, widely used to combat the common cold (the jury is still out on how effective this is). Otherwise known as ascorbic acid it is an essential nutrient that enables collagen production and acts as an antioxidant. It is also very useful in helping the body to absorb iron and other necessary enzymes.

Found in: Citrus fruit, peppers (capsicum, chilli) and green leafy vegetables Take it if: you have low immunity

Calcium:

This macro-mineral is crucial for the healthy development of bones and teeth in children, it is also important for blood pressure, blood clotting, nerve signalling and hormone secretion and in conjunction with Vitamin D it helps ward off osteoporosis.

Found in: Milk, yoghurt, cheese, tofu, spinach and rhubarb Take it if: you don’t eat dairy or are elderly.

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Dietary additions in the form of vitamin supplements may not be essential if your diet is completely balanced but can be beneficial when you’re not eating the rights foods.

Georgie Gordon looks at vitamin sources for courses.

acid (or folate) prevents birth defects in the brain and spine so it is essential for pregnant women up until the 27-week mark. For the rest of us it is still hugely important as it helps create and renew cells in the body. It may also reduce the risk of heart disease and colon cancer.

Found in: Lots of bread contains folate these days, also asparagus, orange juice and lentils.

Take it if: you are pregnant, or planning to be pregnant.

Iron

helps bring oxygen to the cells that need it, and if you don’t have enough oxygen in your system you get tired. It is also important in helping to produce collagen, amino acids, neurotransmitters and hormones.

Found in: Wholegrain cereals, red meat, poultry fish and leafy greens.

Take it if: you are pregnant, fatigued or have poor immunity.

B Vitamins: Eight of

the 13 vitamins that our body needs are B group vitamins. Their main function is to convert protein, fat and carbohydrates into energy but they also help cells multiply by making new DNA and also have a role in nerve function.

B vitamins can’t be stored by the body so they need to be consumed regularly.

Found in: Poultry, fish and beef Take it if: you are stressed, fatigued or vegan.

Omega 3:

These fatty acids are essential for a healthy heart, the Heart Foundation recommends two to three 150 gram serves of oily fish every week as well as fish oil supplements. They are also important for normal metabolism, and have anti-inflammatory properties.

Found in: Oily fish like salmon, mackerel and sardines, also flaxseeds and walnuts.

Take it if: you suffer from arthritis

Magnesium

is a mineral required by every organ in the body. It regulates blood sugar levels, supports nerve and muscle function and keeps our heartbeat steady. It is also essential in activating vitamins D and B and most of us don’t meet the minimum requirement of 300 to 400 milligrams a day.

Found in: sunflower seeds, tofu, potatoes, bran and spinach Take it if: you have high blood pressure, PMS, or suffer from migraines.

Zinc

is an extremely important mineral despite only being needed in small doses. It is extremely high in antioxidants and protects against accelerated aging of the muscles and skin. It also boosts immunity and plays a key role in maintaining good eyesight.

Found in: legumes, seafood, whole grains and dairy products Take it if: you have an injury

Probiotics:

Neither a vitamin or a mineral, probiotics (good bacteria) are essential to our health and allow the microbes in our stomach to manufacture certain vitamins.

There are so many benefits that come with good gut health including good digestion, boosting immunity and recovery.

Found in: yoghurt, kefir, fermented vegetables Take it if: you are human. Most foods don’t contain adequate live concentration of probiotics so a supplement is beneficial for everyone.

PICTURE: Alena Brozova / 123RF

Folic Acid: Proven studies show that folic

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Christiana Cooks

Simply

SARDINES Christiana Kaluscha unpacks the pilchards. She believes everyone should be eating the humble sardine, it’s cheap and bursting with healthy omega-3 fats. In season they are plentiful in the Pacific and when not available from the fishmonger the canned variety are almost as good.

“For me, grilled sardines bring up the best memories of sharing food with friends in Portugal, Morocco, the Med and Vanuatu. After cleaning and

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acific, wild-caught sardines are one of the healthiest foods we can consume, according to health and environmental experts. These nutritional powerhouses are one of the best sources of omega-3 fats; with a whopping 1,950 mg/per 100 g (that’s more per serving than salmon, tuna or just about any other food) and they’re packed with vitamin D. Sardines, or pilchards, are various small, oily fish within the herring family. The term sardine is said to come from the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, around which sardines were once abundant.

South Pacific sardines are smaller than there Atlantic brothers and in general less than 15 cm long. Sardines travel in enormous schools of up to 10 million fish, in the open ocean. They feed on plankton and reproduce rapidly. They are the second most popular canned fish and are available fresh January-August.

scales off, rinsed them in the seawater and then grilled them on a wood fire. What a feast, sprinkled with some fresh lime juice or my Salmoriglio sauce – it doesn’t get any better!

If you don’t have the fishing opportunity, check the fishmonger for fresh sardines.

They are best fresh, but if not available, the canned ones are great as well for some moreish dishes.

Here are a few of my favourite recipes to stoke your sardine love and stimulate your tastebuds.

There are plenty of fresh ones around our waters when in season. I loved to accompany some of my friends to catch them in a throw net in Tukutuku Bay on the west coast of Efaté. Freshly caught, we rubbed them with sand to get the

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PICTURES: Christiana Kaluscha +

Fresh is best but canned OK

preparing the sardines together we would wait for the wood fire to be ready and grill them fresh from the sea.”

Grilled Fresh Sardines: A simple pleasure

Grilled Sardines with Salmoriglio Sauce

For me, grilled sardines bring up the best memories of sharing food with friends in Portugal, Morocco, the Med and Vanuatu. After cleaning and preparing the sardines together we would wait for a wood fire to be ready and grill them fresh from the sea. Once cooked we were happily munching sardine after sardine. They are the freshest, tastiest, crunchiest little fish, simply dressed with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, grilled and served with a bowl of lemons and salsa alongside. Prepared this way they are plump and juicy, tasting simply of the sea.

We would linger for hours over our carafes of wine, happily munching our plates

First stock up on plenty of fresh sardines.

of sardines and chatting away until the sun left long shadows on the horizon.

Life is beautiful!

“Freshly caught, we rubbed them with sand to get the scales off, rinsed them in the seawater and then grilled them on a wood fire.”

Ingredients for sauce

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil • Juice of 2 lemons • 4 large cloves of garlic, finely minced • 1 Tsp oregano, dried • 2 Tbs fresh parsley, finely chopped • 2 Tbsp. fresh basil • Fresh chilli to taste • Sea salt and finely ground black pepper to taste • Extra lemons, sliced thinly

Method

• In a small bowl, combine all the sauce ingredients whisk together until they are incorporated.

• Prepare a medium hot grill, or better a wood fire.

Season the sardines with a little olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. When grill is hot or the braise ready, grill until fish are cooked through and nicely charred, only about 2-3 minutes per side.

• Remove from grill and place on a platter. Drizzle the sauce over the sardines.

Serve any extra sauce on the side along with extra lemons. Serve warm with a bowl of green salad and some fresh bread.

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Marinated Sardines One of my other favourites is to filet the fish (which is a bit of a job), and then marinate them in vinegar, garlic, parsley, chilli and olive oil.

Eaten with a fresh baguette and accompanied by a glass of red wine, this is fingerlicking good!

Covered with olive oil, they will keep up to 2 weeks in the fridge, the only problem is that they are too delicious and vanish quickly.

Ingredients

• 500 g fresh sardines, scaled, heads off and filleted (butterflied) • Clean sea water or if not available, fresh water with sea salt • 1 cup white wine or lemon vinegar, • 1 cup white vinegar • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil • 10 cloves garlic, crushed • Fresh chilli to taste, cut into small pieces • 1 cup parsley, finely cut • ½ cup fresh basil or dill • Freshly ground pepper • Sea salt

Method

• Place filleted sardines in a bowl and cover with sea water. Let sit for about 1 hour • Discard sea water, place sardines into a porcelain or glass dish (not metal or plastic) and cover with half white wine and half white vinegar and refrigerate over night (do not use lime or lemon as this will cook the fish) • Discard the vinegar mix and place sardines in layers in a porcelain dish with a lid (works perfectly with a terrine dish). After each layer of sardines, add some garlic, chilli, parsley, basil, pepper and a little sea salt, sprinkle with olive oil and continue with the second layer.

Repeat for as many layers as you can, depending on the size of your dish. When you’ve finished, cover with olive oil and return to fridge for at least 24 hours.

Enjoy with a fresh & crunchy baguette and a green salad as a meal or on a bruschetta as an appetizer with a glass of red wine.

Pasta Con Sarde (Pasta with Sardines) (serves 6) If you still haven’t fallen in love with sardines, I am sure you will enjoy this pasta recipe with its distinctive fragrance and sweet and sour flavours, this is a Sicilian classic!

Ingredients

• 250 g fresh sardines, filleted • 6 anchovy fillets • 250 g fennel, shaved • 2 onions, chopped • Extra-virgin olive oil • 4 cloves garlic, cut into fine slices • 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs, toasted (see tip) optional • A generous pinch of saffron strands (not powdered)

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• A generous splash of dry white wine • Freshly ground pepper • Sea salt • 75 g sultanas or raisins, soaked in warm water • 50 g pine nuts, toasted • 400g spaghetti or buccatini

Method

• Soften the onions in oil in a large frying pan, • Add the sardines to soften and anchovies to melt, • Add half the fennel, the saffron and the wine, season generously with salt and pepper, cover and cook very gently for 5 minutes. Add the sultanas and simmer for further 5 minutes.

Crostini with Sardine Butter and Rocket • Meanwhile, fill a large pot with cold water, add the remaining fennel and bring to a boil.

• Add the pasta, cook until al dente, strain, and then tip into the sauce. Dry roast the pine kernels and add to the sauce, mix gently and serve.

• Toast the breadcrumbs in olive oil and sprinkle on top. It’s delicious.

Tip

Tip: To make fresh breadcrumbs, trim crusts from whole-wheat bread.

Tear bread into pieces and process in a food processor until coarse crumbs form.

“If you still haven’t fallen in love with sardines, I am sure you will enjoy this pasta recipe with its distinctive fragrance and sweet and sour flavours, this is a Sicilian classic!”

If you cannot get hold of fresh sardines, this is an easy appetizer prepared with canned sardines.

Ingredients

• 2 cans of sardines, bones and scales removed • 75 g of soft butter • Juice of ½ lime • ½ red onion, cut into fine dices • 1 fresh chilli, minced (optional) • ¼ cup of small capers • Sea salt and fresh pepper to taste • 1 cup parsley, finely cut • 1 bunch of fresh rocket • 1 baguette cut into slices and grilled

• Cornichons (optional)

Method

• Place sardine fillets in a bowl and mash with a fork • Add all other ingredients and mix • Add salt, pepper, chilli and lime to taste • Spread mix on toasted baguette slices, decorate with cornichons and serve with fresh rocket leaves

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Buy-in

Pacific BusinessdStart-ups on’ts d n a s ’ o d five

Gayle Stapleton says if your aspiration is to create a new chapter of life living, working and contributing to the Idyllic communities of the Pacific, these are the key strategic aspects of getting started.

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How will you differentiate in a small market?

The key to success in the Pacific is to ‘Do Different’.

It is too easy to follow the herd and copy what is already in place, by doing this you will limit your potential growth and profit and you are not adding to the sustainability of your chosen country.

Ask yourself the following question – what do you want to be famous for?

Take the time to complete a stock-take on you and your chosen market. What inherent skills do you bring and where are the gaps in your island paradise? As the Pacific is a developing market, there will be opportunities to replicate products and services that could be commonplace in Australia, New Zealand or Asia … just make sure it is new to your Pacific market.

Rather than sharing the pie, take the opportunity to create a new Pacific pie.

Take your time…and do your due diligence There are many horror stories of people who fall in love with the dream of buying a business in the Pacific and proceed without covering the sometimes boring due diligence processes. I have seen many of these examples and unfortunately, it is never, ‘if’ rather, ‘when’ these dreamers fail.

The Pacific market is different from Australia or NZ and I recommend you work with a team of professionals who know your chosen country well. Your industry professionals will include legal, accounting, finance, valuation and risk.

Some of the questions I recommend you ask yourself and your team of professionals include: How much time should I allocate to this business? How will I effectively access the key resources of people, premises and finance? And what levels of risk management should I incorporate into my business?

Expect the unexpected The idyllic paradise is open to many risks and a large number of these are beyond your control for example – natural disasters, government changes, regulatory changes, currency movements, exchange control.

Due to these uncontrollable risks, it is important the return you make on your investment is sound and this is after allowing for your salary. Ask yourself, what return would I

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require for an investment in Australia or NZ and then for the Pacific, increase this by 50%. For example if in Australia you would accept 15% return, in the Pacific, work your numbers on 22.5% return, I recommend borrowings of no more than 60% of purchase price.

In the Pacific, what can go wrong, does go wrong … so, planning is key.

Surround yourself with counsel that you trust Doing business anywhere can be lonely and if you are new to business in the Pacific, a small group of people that I refer to as your counsel will prove a powerful adjunct to your aspirations.

The Pacific is a community and unlike elsewhere, people in business here are more open to sharing their knowledge and their stories, the good, the bad and the ugly. Please do take note of these stories as talking from experience, in the early days, you don’t know what you don’t know.

Think global, Act local One of the most satisfying aspects of doing business in the Pacific is the openness to learning you will experience from Pacific Island nationals.

Typically expatriates share the same aspirations of contributing to the learning journey of the Pacific island nations and for us there are also huge opportunities.

To experience the real richness of doing business in the region, take the advice of one of my early mentors, totally immerse yourself in the community whether it be socialising, sport, religion or community groups. You will learn plenty from the experience, it will be fun, you will build credibility and you will develop deep and lasting friendships.

And don’t lose sight of the power of digital media, choose the medium that your target clients are most likely to engage with and proactively use this media. Social media is changing the face of the Pacific.

As an expatriate doing business in the Pacific, it is important to remember that we are visitors to our chosen country and life and culture will be different, and different means different, different does not mean wrong.

What does this mean for you Key messages for you – ‘Do Different’; plan effectively and Stapleton Pacific build a mutual support network.

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long distance love affair

SouthFrBound ance En

I

t’s a stretch of coastline that attracts millions of visitors among them some of the world’s most famous artists and writers, it has been the backdrop to many movies and the inspiration for any number of books yet if you were in a hurry you could travel by car from one end to the other in around five or six hours. That’s from the Italian border to the Spanish border but why would you want to? The south of France is an area to be lingered over, to explore in a leisurely way and to be savoured as much for its scenery as its cuisine.

Over the years I’ve meandered through this area on numerous occasions exploring both the coast (where I once mislaid a passport in La Ciotat which no doubt subsequently became a useful document for some Marseillaise smuggler) and the hinterland which is easily accessible from almost any point on the Med. There’s the choice of staying right beside the seaside or making your base in one of the inland villages which are all within easy reach but usually less crowded and a cheaper option, particularly if you rent a villa or a gîte and live like a local by shopping at any nearby market town and eating in the

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numerous rural restaurants specialising in local produce and wine.

From Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Vaucluse area to Bandol in, well, Bandol the wine is fabulous, the food equally so from the Provençal classic Daube in the Luberon to Bouillabaisse on the quayside at Cassis (my favourite place) at one end of the Riviera or in its traditional home of Marseille to pissaladière and salade niçoise from Nice (obviously) at the other.

The Côte d’Azur or Riviera runs from Menton on the Italian border in the east almost to Marseille at the western end although there is no official boundary to this more glamorous stretch of the south of France.

And it is glamorous, think the Cannes film festival, the Monaco Grand Prix, the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat in what is supposedly the world’s second most expensive place for Below left: Arles, the gateway to the Camargue, and a town rich in Roman history with its most famous building being the Amphitheatre which was built on 90 AD. Below: The Cafe de Sade in Lacoste, named in honour of one time resident – the Marquis.

PICTURES: Craig Osment

A five hundred-kilometre drive will take you from border to border in half a day but there’s enough to see, eat and experience in this area to take half a lifetime exploring. Over the course of several visits Craig Osment meanders through the south of France from Menton to the Spanish border.

Above: Lavender field at Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque. Below: At the western end of the Riviera, my favourite seaside town – Cassis.

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Above: The ramparts of the medieval citadel in Carccassonne which is a UNESCO world heritage site. “Get away from it and rent a gîte

residential real estate after Monaco and the Hotel Negresco in Nice, or the art collection at La Colombe d’Or in Saint-Paul-deVence or all that money afloat at the port in Saint Tropez. But a short drive inland and you’ll find all manner of quaint, traditional villages with artisanal heritages from Grasse (France’s perfume capital) to Ménerbes considered one of France’s finest villages and made famous by Peter Mayle’s book A Year In Provence, and where you’ll find a corkscrew museum!

Perched perfection

Here in the Luberon area of Provence you’ll find a series of ‘perched villages’ which cling to mountaintops and offer superb views of the surrounding countryside and the vast plains under vine. Apart from Ménerbes there’s Lacoste (home town of the Marquis de Sade for some years), Bonnieux with a fine selection of restaurants, and a bakery museum (in this area they seem to have a museum to celebrate every form of

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culinary indulgence), then there’s Gordes which claims to be the preferred village of the Luberon for movie stars and artists (a hard claim to sustain when there have been so many calling the area home). While in this part of Provence a must-visit is the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque built in 1148 and the backdrop to perhaps the most photographed lavender field in France.

Nearby is the beautiful little commune of Fontaine de Vaucluse which sits at the base of a steep cliff and is famous for being the location of the biggest spring in the country with an annul flow of 630 million cubic metres which feeds the River Sorgue.

South of this region is Aix en Provence the former capital of Provence and the inspiration for yet more writers and painters from Stendhal to Zola and Cézanne, who has a special street tour dedicated to him. Further west is Arles, the gateway to the Camargue, and a town rich in Roman history with its most

Left: The perfectly aligned vineyards of Provence from Place de l’Horloge in Ménerbes. Above the glitz and glamour of Cannes, take a stroll along Boulevard de la Croisette and soak up some sophistication. Below: Getting your ceramic pheasants in row in Arles.

in the hinterland of Provence where you can live like a local, cook food from local markets and indulge in a little regional wine.”

famous building being the Amphitheatre which was built on 90 AD with a seating capacity of 20,000 for chariot racing and confronting hand-to-hand battles but these days the venue for plays and concerts.

Just down the road in the Langguedoc-Roussilon is the curiously bleak wetland known as the Camargue, home to the eponymous white horses as well as the medieval, walled fortress-town of Aigues Mort (which means dead, or stagnant water, hardly an appellation for a tourist attraction) home to an annual pilgrimage for Romany (or Gypsies) to honour their mythic patron Saint Sarah, although when I was there last it seemed to an outpost of the Deniliquin ute muster with hundreds being driven enthusiastically throughout the town.

Beyond the ramparts

Also in this region are yet more towns and villages that should be on any itinerary, including the former Roman city

of Narbonne with its impressive cathedral and underground grain store as well as canal-side quays. And definitely not to be passed by is Carcassonne, the UNESCO world heritage site, the main feature of which is its medieval citadel which is encircled by ramparts incorporating 53 watchtowers and accessible by a drawbridge.

From here it’s about an hour’s drive to Perpignan which enjoys a strong Catalan influence which is not surprising since this is the last large town and nearest to the Spanish border.

Historically Perpignan was the continental capital of Majorca and now hosts a multicultural mix of immigrants from North Africa and Spain. While a little shabby in places the centre of town sits on the La Bassa river alongside which there are plenty of eating opportunities and views over the pastel coloured buildings lining the river.

So that’s, briefly, the south of France, from east to west – Next stop Barcelona!.

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Island Escape

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Cruising

Indonesia’s Forgotten Islands Sally Macmillan sets off on the luxurious cruise ship National Geographic Orion on an unforgettable trip to Indonesia’s ‘forgotten’ islands where she found friendly denizens and dangerous dragons.

C

Komodo encounter: “We were lucky enough to encounter the famous komodo dragons within the first 10 minutes.

These giant, carnivorous lizards weigh up to 80 kilos and kill their prey with a venomous bite”

PICTURES: Courtesy of Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic and Sally Macmillan

ould there be a better way to begin a cruise through the ‘forgotten’ islands of Indonesia than staying for a day or two at the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay Resort in Bali? I haven’t thought of one yet.

Set on the hill overlooking the ocean, this collection of beautifully designed Balinese villas is a tropical haven of zen-like calm and natural elegance. The attention to detail is exquisite: from the Japanese-style gardens and private plunge pool to the bath scattered with frangipani blossoms, carvings, paintings and ceramic pots filled with lotions and potions, nothing has been overlooked. You could spend a week here and discover something new every day – the spa alone offers enough rejuvenating treatments to keep you fully occupied.

However, we had a ship to board and islands to explore. Debonair hotel manager Ian Vella welcomed us aboard Orion (now named National Geographic Orion) and showed us through the accommodation decks, Constellation dining room, Leda Lounge and outdoor Delphinius café, Galaxy Lounge and Cosmos Lecture Theatre.

She really is a magnificent ship: light and airy with gleaming brass balustrades between the decks, fascinating artworks on the walls and classically stylish decor and furniture in all the public and staterooms. As for our Owner’s Suite, we could be in a five-star hotel – huge bedroom, a sitting room big enough to entertain a dozen people, lots of storage space and an opulent marble bathroom. Floor-to ceiling windows and a shallow balcony complete the picture.

Meet the mariners

At sail away drinks on the Sunset Deck we met many of our fellow passengers and what fascinating stories they told over the next 10 days.

A crocodile hunter, an 87-year-old WWII flying-boat captain, farmers and former captains of industry were among the group. Sailing veteran, author and TV commentator Rob Mundle was also on board – a cruise virgin who took to the cruising life with gusto.

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We were introduced to Captain Mike Taylor, a charming and humorous Irishman, and the expedition crew at our first briefing. There was a palpable sense of excitement as expedition leader Justin Friend described some of the remote, barely known destinations we would be visiting.

Komodo country

Our first stop was Pink Beach in the Komodo National Park.

Zodiacs ferried us to the beach, which really is pink, due to the red organ pipe coral that makes up the sand. The corals and fish we saw while snorkelling for several hours exceeded all expectations: marine biologist and expedition crew member Mick Fogg said this part of the coral triangle is a shining example of reef recovery because the National Park is channelling funds into its preservation.

The next day we had a wet landing at Loh Liang, the entry point to the Komodo National Park. Local guides led small parties on a four-kilometre walk through dry bush and we were lucky enough to encounter the famous komodo dragons within the first 10 minutes.

These giant, carnivorous lizards weigh up to 80 kilos and kill their prey with a venomous bite – it was surprising to see deer, their favourite meal, grazing so close by and we humans kept a respectful distance.

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The dragons only eat once a month and we were assured that they had dined very recently.

Our next stop was Kisar Maluku, an island that has a long history of spice trading and strong ties culturally and linguistically to East Timor. The Dutch East India Company’s warehouse still stands in the village of Wonreli.

We were greeted at the village by a colourful display of dancing in the square. We were only the second group of tourists to visit the island and as we were driven in a cavalcade of government cars and bemos to the village of Oombasa, we were accompanied by dozens of hooting, tooting motorcyclists.

The royal treatment

In Oombasa, the ruins of a 400-year old Dutch church sit next door to the home of the Rajah’s widow. She and her sister graciously invited us into their house for a light snack of fried sukun (like jackfruit) with chilli jam and glasses of palm wine and sopi, a strong, clear spirit. It was definitely the first time I had literally rubbed noses with royalty!

En route to Yamdena, one of the 65 islands in the Tanimbar group in Maluku, we spotted half a dozen sperm whales.

Captain Mike changed course and we spent some 45 minutes watching these magnificent creatures breaching and diving at

Opposite page: Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay Resort in Bali which was the starting point of the trip. Left: Part of the Tanimbar vilagers’ stone boat on the island of Sangliat Dol. Above: Pink Coral which is responsible for the colour of the beach at Komodo National Park. Below: the luxurious National Geographic Orion.

close quarters. The ship anchored some way off the beach at Sangliat Dol, Yamdena (the tide was the lowest for a year) and as we waded through warm water over sand and coral we heard singing from the villagers who had gathered under the palm trees to meet us.

An apparent marriage

Sangliat Dol is a typically beautiful tropical island location, complete with white sand, turquoise waters and lush vegetation, but the Tanimbar people have a very distinct heritage. In a nutshell, their society is structured along the lines of a boat’s crew: at the head is the captain who ‘steers’ the village and other positions roughly translate to various boat-related positions. The other two leaders are the ‘herald’, who is father of the village and speaks on behalf of its people (traditionally in times of war) and the ‘sacrificer ’, or mother of the village. They work together as in a marriage to ensure the society’s continuity. The stone boat at the heart of the village is the site of traditional rituals and meetings.

Once we were all on the beach, the hereditary chief welcomed Orion Expeditions’ founder, Sarina Bratton, and expedition leader Justin Friend with a speech and ceremony that included marking their foreheads with sand as a sign of respect. We were then escorted up a steep stone staircase to

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Above: the pink-tinged beach in the Komodo National Park.

the village, where we witnessed a series of dances performed by villagers adorned in bird of paradise headdresses and spectacular traditional clothing. The elders gathered for a ceremony on the stone boat, in which Sarina and Justin were given the village names of Arat and Arid, and were apparently married. We were all given the status of children of the village and were taken into family homes for a visit. We also looked around the old wooden Dutch colonial Catholic Church that overlooks the stone boat, and saw a hangi-type feast being prepared in the square. The welcome we received and the hospitality of the Sangliat Dol people was incredibly moving, an experience that will stay with us forever – and one they are probably still laughing about among themselves. After Sangliat Dol we called in to Weluan Beach for a swim and bus ride to the giant Christ statues that overlook the coastline, and then it was full steam ahead through the Torres Strait and on to Thursday Island. Luxury, expedition, adventure – which category does an Orion cruise fit best? As my first voyage on this beautiful vessel comes to an end en route to Cairns, I would have to say ‘all of the above’. But what I hadn’t anticipated was just how much sheer good fun it was.

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Fact File Lindblad Expeditions - National Geographic For details of the Spice Island Adventure expedition cruises in Indonesia and numerous other destinations on National Geographic Orion, within Australia call: 1300 361 012, or see www.au.expeditions.com

The Cruise Menu The National Geographic Orion travels widely, you can choose from 17 expedition itineraries in the South Pacific, Antarctica and the Indian Ocean covering destinations such as Papua New Guinea, Fiji, the Cook Islands, Sri Lanka, Tahiti, The Falklands and South Georgia and the Kimberly in Australia’s wild northwest.

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An Independent Correspondent Member Of

26/06/15 15:39

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glorious gardens

Vegetables t h g u o h t d for foo

Gardening editor, Carolyn Ernst has finally planted her vegetable garden and has plenty of advice for tropical gardeners on what to do for best results for garden-to-plate success.

“There is nothing more rewarding than going outside and picking a basket of beautiful fresh vegetables, straight from garden to plate,

W

ell the Vanuatu landscape is starting to return to a vague resemblance of what it looked like before cyclone Pam or as the staff would say, ‘time before’.

Yes there are still huge gaps everywhere and everything is not as big and bushy as it was, but the stark bareness is now gone. The flowers are starting to bloom normally again and I am reliably informed the honey is now flowing. This means the bee keepers can stop feeding their bees sugar, which they have been forced to do since cyclone Pam. I am sure many people have never considered how these essential garden workers survive a major climatic event like cyclone Pam. Have you ever stopped and thought, what would happen if bees died out? Every fruit and seed that requires bees to be the pollinator could no longer reproduce and would eventually die out. These little creatures are vital in the role they play, as pollinators to our food and pasture crops.

Vanuatu is blessed with great bee health so we need to protect and nurture our bee populations. Most of the rest of the world is not so lucky and farmers are struggling with decreased production because of their bees’ failing health. I read somewhere that America’s stone fruit production is down by up to 25 percent due to their bee health issues. Also you probably don’t know, Vanuatu’s honey not only tastes good but is also very good for you. Just ask my friend Cornelia and she will tell you all about the nutraceutical values of our honey, just like the famed Manuka honey.

Growing your own veggies

But now I’d like to share with you the importance and fun of growing your own vegetables. I have had a vegetable garden for years but since moving to Eden on the River outside Port Vila in 2009 I have been procrastinating about making a vegetable garden even though I have got as far as buying

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the seeds a couple of times. This year I have actually got my vegetable garden finished and planted, this is some feat given the hours I am currently working to help finance the damage from cyclone Pam. There is nothing more rewarding than going outside and picking a basket of beautiful fresh vegetables, straight from garden to plate, vine-ripened tomatoes, crispy colourful lettuces and other interesting leafy greens and root crops. I say interesting because over the past 15 years the types of vegetable seeds readily available has been growing, so now the choice is absolutely amazing. You can spend hours just trying to decide which variety of tomato or lettuce you want to grow. I have to admit I’m hopeless, I just can’t choose, so I go for the mixed packs and then wait with much excitement to see what interesting colours and shapes will eventually appear.

On top of the many different varieties of the more traditional vegetables, there are now many different weird and wonderful vegetables that originate from all over the world. This has come with the growing interest in international cuisine and with increased migration and mobility of the world population. We now find in our local green grocer, fruit and vegetables you would have only found by travelling to South America, Europe and Asia.

The seeds for many of these exotics are now available from your local seed merchant. Please check the requirements of any seed you purchase, just because the seed is available doesn’t mean that it will grow, and it may only be suitable for particular parts of the year in your area. Having said that I will also tell you that sometimes you just need to experiment, I have successfully grown rhubarb in Vanuatu. While it never achieved that deep ruby red it would have in the cool of New Zealand, it was tasty and my rhubarb and apple crumble was to die for.

Unfortunately it didn’t really like the damp tropics and didn’t persist for more than two years. Must be time to try some more.

vine-ripened tomatoes, crispy colourful lettuces and other interesting leafy greens and root crops.”

Exotic varieties

This year I decided to experiment with some of the more interesting seeds I found and I have to say, so far, I have been impressed. I love kohlrabi grated in my salad and the young leaves of the red mustard have been a great addition to salads as well. One word of warning about the mustard leaves, as the leaves mature they become very peppery and I am yet to have the time to research the uses for them at this stage. I am also looking forward to tasting the Florence fennel (finocchio) that I have grown without any problems as well.

Still to plant are several different varieties of beans as well as winged peas and spinach. I’m really not sure why I’m bothering with spinach, it has always been my least favourite vegetable. I can still remember as a child, the nights I had to remain at the dinner table until I had finished the silver beet on my plate, yuck! Perhaps I can give it to my friends.

This year in the markets of Port Vila there are all sorts of different vegetables. This comes from the huge range of different seeds that were donated after the cyclone. One I have particularly enjoyed is wong bok (a variety of Chinese cabbage) and I have rediscovered my love of wong bok salad, I think it could be all the sugar in the dressing. I also found a lady selling kohlrabi, and asked her if she knew what to do with it, of course she didn’t, so I told her how I was using it, she really appreciated the help and gave me a cabbage for my assistance.

You really need to consider what you want or need to grow in your garden. If there is a good and cheap supply of a particular vegetable in your local markets, why not support the local growers and buy it. This way you can use your time and effort to grow something that is either different or hard to find

or that is normally expensive. In Vanuatu a good example of this is pak choi (or bok choy) or white bon as it is locally called.

You can buy this all year round very cheaply, almost less than you could grow it for if you consider your time and effort, so why bother? At the moment tomatoes are a bit like this but there is something nice about going out and picking your own, fresh from the vine.

Organic best practice

There is one more thing that you need to think about, and that is how to control pests and diseases. With the increased publicity about the dangers from the overuse and misuse of chemicals, many people are keen to farm as organically as possible. Now I use organic in a very loose way, there is a huge difference in certified organic and growing using organic methods. As everything grows well in the warmth of the tropics and sub tropics, so do pests and diseases.

Unless you completely net and screen your garden you will have pests and they will need to be controlled. Some types of vegetables have very few issues, like beetroot, capsicum, radish and lettuces, but others will have a wider range of insect problems. The worst of these are your Cucurbita (pumpkin, melons) and Brassica (cabbage, broccoli) families.

For the dedicated, organic sprays can work, but remember during periods of rain you need to be spraying after every fall. There is a huge range of make-your-own sprays (check Google) and some that are commercially available like the pyrethrum-based sprays. If you do decide to use chemical sprays do watch and abide by the withholding periods, this means that you do not eat anything that you have sprayed for the prescribed period. Also you need to realise that even some of the chemical sprays will be adversely affected by rain, so do read your labels properly.

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Above left: Old bathtubs make for great garden beds and for easy access. Top right: Kohlrabi nestled in the tub and below Florence fennel.

Bed building

These days there are many different ways to make your garden beds. I was fortunate to purchase a large number of old bath tubs when one of the local hotels was being renovated. These have been transformed into animal feeders and water troughs, garden seats and now the last of them have been made into raised vegetable garden beds. This has allowed me to use my best compost and soil to make a truly fertile garden soil mix. There is also the added bonus of no longer having to bend over or kneel in the wet soil when I’m planting or weeding, just one of the issues we need to consider as we get older. These raised beds are now available in a huge range of shapes and materials at your local hardware shop. But you don’t have to buy them, you can

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have them built out of block, stone or wood or make them yourself from old tyres, old railway sleepers or corrugated iron.

These raised beds are good for a number of reasons; ease of access and maintenance, improved drainage and the ease of improving and maintaining soil fertility. Also remember to add some charcoal to your garden beds regularly as it is great for improving all types of soils.

Pest protection

We also all have different issues with trying to garden, mine was my dogs, they like to help me garden and then there are the stray chickens that think the garden is a great place to find worms and bugs. But of course it was also the new seeds and young seedlings that tasted good as well, so I had to build a fence around the vegetable garden to protect it. I am currently attempting to grow orchids up it, as well as train my cucumber and beans to use it as well. While in Brisbane recently, I found that my sister-in-law’s big problem was the possums, they made vegetable gardening an impossibility.

So using the same technique as you could use to make a shade house, I made a possum proof vegetable garden cover.

Using lengths of plastic pipe as supports then covering it with chicken wire, her vegetable garden is now protected and she can easily access it without having to bend down under a temporary cover.

I wish all the readers a Merry Xmas and happy gardening for the New Year and don’t forget to take time to smell the roses.

PICTURES: Carolyn Ernst

Also our moist climate is a great home for moulds and fungi.

When watering it is much better to put water directly onto the soil instead of onto the leaves of the plant, this helps reduce the incidence of mould and fungi. Another thing is to install an underground water system, this delivers water directly to the roots of the plant and so helps control these diseases as well as reducing your water usage. If you garden in an area that suffers from water shortages or expensive water prices you might like to consider using grey water for your garden.

My sister has done this and now pumps directly from her washing machine to a large garbage bin that acts as a holding tank then pumps out to the garden. This was all done with minimum expense and the purchase of a cheap sump pump.

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Pacific Traveller

Need-to-Know FAQs about the practicalities of Pacific travel, from getting around to getting the language.

Cook Islands

Population: 11,500 Country code: +682 Capital: Avarua Official languages: English, Maori Currencies: New Zealand dollar, Cook Islands dollar Cook Island Time Zone (UTC-10:00) Basic Language • Hello – Kia Orana • Goodbye – Aere ra • Thank you – Meitaki • Yes – Ae • No – Kare Business hours The usual business week is 9am to 4pm Monday to Friday, and most shops also open on Saturday morning until noon. Small local grocery stores keep longer hours, often from around 6am or 7am until around 8pm or 9pm Nearly everything is closed on Sunday – bars close at midnight on Saturday and even Air Rarotonga doesn’t fly. The only exceptions are the small local grocery stores, some of which open for a couple of hours on Sunday morning and again in the evening. Opening hours in the Cook Islands are notoriously variable.

Transportation Take a Bongo Bus – fun, safe and reliable or hire a scooter.

Rental cars available too.

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Fiji

Capital: Suva Country code: +679 Currency: Fijian dollar Population: 874,742 (2012) Fiji Time Zone (UTC+12:00) Basic Language • Welcome/Hello – Bula • How are you? Vacava tiko?

• What’s your name? – O cei na yacamu(ni)?

• How much is this? – E vica na kena i-sau?

• Thank you – Vinaka, Vinaka vaka levu • Do you speak English?– O(ni) vosa vakavalagi?

Transportation Getting around Fiji is easy and cheap. There’s a good network of buses, carriers (trucks) and ferries for travel within Fiji’s main islands, and taxis are common. Hiring a car is a good way to explore the two largest islands – which contain 90% of Fiji’s roads – or charter a boat, or small plane to get between islands. Fiji is well-served by two domestic airlines which operate between many of the islands, although services are less regular to the outer islands. Yachting and cruising are also great ways to explore the country.

Business Hours Post offices and most shops and cafés open between 8am and 9am and close at around 5pm weekdays, or

1pm on Saturday. Banks are open 9am to 4pm on weekdays, though some close at 3pm on Friday. A few Internet cafés and shops are open for limited hours on Sunday but the general rule is to assume everything will be closed.

Government offices are open from 8am to 4.30pm Monday to Thursday, and 8am to 4pm Friday.

Many places in Fiji close for lunch from 1pm to 2pm

Samoa

Capital: Apia Currency: Tala (WST) Population: 178,631 Language: Samoan (Polynesian), English Time Zone: UTC +13 (DST +14) Basic Language • Hello – Malo • How are you? – ‘O a mai ‘oe?

• Fine, thank you – Manuia, fa’afetai.

• Please – Fa’amolemole.

• Thank you – Fa’afetai • Yes – ‘Ioe • No – Leai.

• Goodbye –Tofa soifua.

Business hours Banks are usually open from 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday. Shops usually operate from 8am to 4.30pm on weekdays and from 8am to

noon on Saturday, though kiosks and convenience stores keep longer hours.

Government offices open from 8am to 4.30pm.

On Sunday, almost everything is closed, although ripples of activity appear in the evening.

Markets normally get under way by about 6am; the Maketi Fou in Apia is active more or less 24 hours a day.

Transportation To drive in Samoa, visitors need to validate their foreign driver’s license at the Land Transport Authority in Vaitele near the Samoa Breweries/ Vailima factory. Cost for validation is ST$12, and some rental car companies will also assist in getting your license endorsed.

On September 7, 2009, Samoa switched from driving on the right hand side of the road, to the left.

Most vehicles are left hand drive, and drivers should be cautious if you are not familiar with driving on the left side of the road.

Taxis are abundant and not metered so it’s good to have an idea of what the journey will cost and you agree on a price with the driver before setting off.

Trips from Faleolo International Airport to Apia cost around SAT$60.

Another fun way to explore the islands is to take a local bus. If the bus is full when you board locals will sit on another person’s lap.

There are no bus stops around the islands, so just wave down a bus if you want to get on, and when you want to get off simply pull the cord to ring the buzzer.

Solomon Islands

Capital: Honiara Country code: +677 Population: 549,598 (2012) Currency: Solomon Islands dollar Official language: English Language Solomon Islands Time Zone (UTC+11:00) Basic Language • Good morning – mone/moning • Hello – Halo • Goodbye – Baebae • See you again – lukim yu moa • Thank you – Tagio tumas • Do you speak English – yu save tok englis • My name is – nem blong mi hem • I do not understand – mi no save/mi no undastadem Business Hours Banking hours in Honiara are from 8.30am to 3pm Monday to Friday (ANZ and Westpac open at 9am).

Government offices open

from 8am to noon and 1pm to 4pm Monday to Friday.

Private businesses close half an hour later and operate on Saturday until midday.

Most shops in town open from 8.30am to 5pm Monday to Friday and until noon on Saturday – some open longer, including on Sunday.

Transportation Not all taxis are metered, so agree on a price at the start of your journey. Solomon Airlines offer flights to the outer islands.

Tonga

Capital: Nuku’alofa Currency: pa’anga (TOP) Population: 106,137 (July 2002 est.)

Language: Tongan, English Time Zone: UTC +13 Basic language • Hello – Malo a lelei • Do you speak English – ‘Oku ke lava ‘o lea fakapalangi?

• I don’t understand –‘Oku ‘ikai ke mahino kiate au • How much is it? – ‘Oku fiha • Please – Faka molemole • Thank you (very much) – Malo (‘aupiti) Business Hours Tonga’s businesses operate Monday to Friday from 8.30am to 4.30pm, on Saturday from 8.30am to 12noon. It is important to note that all businesses are

closed on Sundays, this includes most cafés and bars. Food is available in hotels and resorts.

Transportation Most of the Island groups are serviced by inter island ferries, most of which depart from Queen Salote Wharf in Nuku’alofa. Water Taxis offer one way or round trip transfers between islands on fast, reliable and comfortable speed boats.

Road taxis are unmetered and often unmarked but identified by the letter T at the beginning of the number plate.

An acceptable fare from the International Airport to downtown Nuku’alofa would be $30 and short trips around the capital $5-$6.

Vanuatu

Capital: Port Vila Currency: Vatu, although AUD accepted in main towns Official languages: English, French and Bislama Population: 220,000 Time zone: GMT/UMT plus 11 hours.

Basic Language • How much is that? – Hamas long hem?

• I don’t know. – Mi no save • This is broken – Samting ia hemi bugarup or Samting ia i brok • How are you? – Olsem

wanem • Thank you –Tankyu • Thank you very much – Tankyu tumas • My name is… – Nem blong mi • What time does the plane land? – Wanem taem plen ia lan?

• Food/eat – Kai Kai Business Hours Offices and shops usually open from 7.30 -11.30am and 1.30 - 5.00pm Monday to Friday.

Many shops open on Saturday morning. Siesta (lunchtime) is 11.30am - 1.30pm when many businesses and shops close. Restaurants, cafés, supermarkets, banks and the Port Vila market remain open.

Vanuatu Post has locations throughout the country, some shared with the National Bank of Vanuatu. The Port Vila Post Office is open Monday to Friday 7.30am - 5.00pm and Saturday 7.30am - 11.30am Transportation Driving in Vanuatu is on the right hand side of the road.

Apart from taxis buses are a great way to get around town.

Any minibus with a red B on the number plate will take you on its route in central Port Vila for VT150 and trips further afield start at VT200.

Air Vanuatu flies to the outer islands of Vanuatu.•

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Nauru Airlines provides return services from Brisbane to Nauru, Tarawa and Majuro and between Nauru and Nadi and Tarawa and Majuro.

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Par Avion

Sartorial Cyphers

F

Toby Preston ventures abroad with the hoard and observes some curious national wardrobe trends along the way.

irst up, a confession – I’m not one of those travellers who ‘pack light’. I’m really better suited to those days of yore where a porter and a Vuitton trunk were de rigeur. Indeed I hardly raised an eyebrow when I read recently of some Saudi sheik arriving in the south of France with an entourage of 1000 and causing uproar because he insisted on a local beach being closed off for ‘security reasons’ after installing a temporary inclinator and incurring the wrath of 150,000 local inhabitants before being chased off to Morrocco. Whatever floats your boat, or super yacht!

So my observations of fellow travellers’ wardrobe choices and travel accoutrements is not from some self righteous moral high ground, just a mystification as to quite what the hell sort of life-threatening event they might be expecting to befall them while strolling through the streets of a Greek village or a tropical island in the middle of summer.

Why, for instance do you need trekking poles, GoreTex® hiking boots with crampons, a backpack the size of a mature wombat, zip-off cargo pants, a photographer’s vest with 30 secure pockets and hydration aids when you’re surrounded by restaurants, cafés, clothing boutiques and pharmacies all within a level walk of assistance in the case of most emergencies short of an avalanche or a tsunami.

It starts at the airport, you just know when you see those passengers festooned with beanbag neckwear and water bottles clipped to their clothing with a carabiner keyring that they’re going to have all the other accoutrements that are the hallmark of the nervous tourist abroad, no doubt a money belt, an RFID-safe passport wallet, portable luggage scales, noise cancelling headphones and a sleep mask for a three-hour daylight flight. And they’re always last on the plane, having spent an extra half hour getting their boots laced up after the security check and then trying to find an overhead locker commodious enough to store their coffin-sized carry on luggage. Like the morbidly obese, you just hope that they’re not going to sit in the window seat next to you for the duration because when it comes time to fill in the immigration card their pen is always at the bottom of the bag and they are probably still carrying strains of Japanese Encephalitis and Rabies as a result of a cocktail of vaccines administered in the previous week.

Once at their destination, they always catch a bus with an English-speaking translator on board and wear a lanyard with their personal details displayed to the world and an electronic chip

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with medical records and known allergies embedded in it.

They then proceed to occupy twice their own body space wherever they go because the backpack is a never-leave-home-without-it item, and it contains all the other essentials like a multi port USB charger, a universal electric plug, a hooded puffer jacket in case of unforeseen meteorological events, water purifying tablets, gluten-free muesli bars, sunscreen, a cancer council-approved hat with neck protection and a first aid kit, and inevitably a pair of those Velcroattached reef sandals the size of a snowshoe for warmer weather outings. Then they frantically elbow their way past other tourists so that can be back at the bus after their allotted 30-minute experience of the Parthenon, the pyramids or an entire Pacific island all of which have been captured for posterity on the selfie stick phone camera with 1.5 megapixel resolution.

Having said that, not all sartorial quirks are the same, the above applies mostly to anglos of a certain age while other ethnic groups display their own national characteristics as obviously as being wrapped in their flag. Japanese tourists, apart from having obvious difficulties with buffet breakfasts (cornflakes and bacon anyone?) are easy to pick because the females are either dressed as Hello Kitty kiddie porn lookalikes or covered with sarongs, umbrellas and white cotton gloves in case of an acute melanoma outbreak and they tend to huddle behind someone carrying a colourful pennant on a pole so as not to get lost and spontaneously discover some item of interest. The Chinese are always in a desperate hurry, clutching handbags to their chests and shuffling en masse in funny little flattie shoes as if polishing pavements wherever they roam. While Europeans (with the exception of Germans) mostly look like they’ve dressed in anticipation of the evening passeggiata, or volta; elegantly stylish, never perspiring and always smoking. The Germans though tend to specialise in wholesome, outdoorsy and practical clothing befitting a people who have nothing in their backpacks as they’re usually coming to or from some sort of naturist camp with glowing, radiantly red complexions and the smug knowledge of having been freshly colonically irrigated.

Finally there are the most intrepid and inappropriately dressed of all – younger Australian males for whom a full sleeve of tattoos and a singlet suffice in all weathers, ink and an Esky are the only essentials for this hardy breed who eschew sensible shoes in favour of thongs and who can always seek warmth and comfort under a bar.

1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c

1 | Islandliving paciďŹ c