San Telmo is one of BA’s most historic barrios and has cobblestone plazas and handsome older architecture dotted around the neighbourhood as well as new modern apartments and colourful graffiti making it a mish mash of then and now. Littered with antiques markets and design stores, this is the hot spot for second hand knick knacks as well as serious antique furniture purchases that will set you back a few thousand. This is not a spot for bargain hunters but more for shopaholics who will find this browsing heaven.
By Amanda Barnes
WHERE TO EAT Café San Juan Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater and a tattoo aficionado and his unique personal style is reflected in his simple but adventurous dishes. With the menu scrawled on chalkboards and changing on an almost daily basis, this has become a firm favourite of Portenos and tourists so much so that a spin off sister restaurant has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical Argentine dishes with a twist served in a retro style diner. Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (between Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 4300-1112. Reservations recommended. Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$
La Panaderia de Pablo A boulangerie style place where you can sit down to a brunch, hearty lunch or relaxed dinner with an emphasis on bruschettas, sandwiches and big salads. If you have a sweet tooth or are on an anti-atkins diet this is your place to tuck into different tarts,
Photo by Amanda Barnes
pastries, cookies, muffins and breads, and bring a doggy bag to enjoy Pablo’s delights a little longer at home. La Panaderia de Pablo, Defensa 269 (Corner of Moreno), San Telmo (11) 43316728. Open daily Breakfast & Lunch, Thurs – Sat Dinner. $$
El Baquedano While carne is king in Argentina, there are some other carnes that often get neglected while all eyes are on the revered cow. This restaurant celebrates all the other meats of Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas and even alligator. It is Mar del Plata chef Fernando Rivarola who is championing the underside of Argentina’s carnivorous food culture and he does it with great style in a seven course tasting menu or a la carte. Don’t miss the llama carpaccio. El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar), San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues – Sat. $$$$$
THE MARKETS For little trinklets and antiques try Mundo Antiguo, Defensa 566, which
has rows of small stands displaying all their wears. Further along the same road you will find another mini market at Defensa 834 which is basically a glorified indoor garage that can get a bit hot in the summer as most of the vendors seem to sell hundreds of lights and chandeliers. The main antiques market is the Mercado de San Telmo, Defensa 963, with the biggest concentration of stalls that sell everything from fresh vegetables, retro matchboxes and old leather handbags to second hand clothing and a uncountable treasure trove of antiques.
LITERARY HAUNTS La Poesia This is a longtime literary hangout that used to be graced by freethinkers and writers during the end of the military dictatorship. Nowadays it is more of a tourist haunt as well as homing a loyal legion of locals that come for the traditional argentine menu, artisanal beer and attractive pulperia decor with hams hanging from the ceiling and tango memorabilia around the walls.
San Telmo sundays by Izabel Kapteyn
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