PLAYGROUND BA - ED.5 - DIC/ENE - 2014/15 by Pablo Ortiz Avila

DEC - 2014 | JAN - 2015 | FREE magazine | N° 5

BUENOS AIRES GUIDE DISCOVERING EVITA SUMMER IN BA

Bolivar esquina Venezuela

Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires! Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! As aficionados of Buenos Aires ourselves, we are keen to share some top tips for the city so you can have the very best experience of BA and Argentina! Please use us however you like: for tips, for the handy map at the back, take us on a night out with your friends, or just thumb through our pages during a couple bored hours on a bus or getting your ‘do fixed. Summer is here and we are ready to start celebrating with long evenings, weekends away at the beach, and of course the fortnight-long festivities of Christmas and New Year! This edition we wanted to bring you a guide to experiencing the festive season in Argentina, recommended gifts and we’ve even got recommended wines to try. If you are mainly concerned with beating the heat, we’ve got some tips to keep cool in the city, and if you want to get to the coolest place in Argentina this Summer you might find our guide to Patagonia useful. Closer to the capital though, we’ve got a guide to the Ruta de Queso, a trip to the eery Eden Hotel, and a fashionista’s tips for visiting Colegiales. We’re also dishing the scoop on the best spots to tango, and we take a look at one of Argentina’s greatest icons: Evita. As usual we hope to have crammed this magazine with useful tips and recommendations so you can enjoy your time in Buenos Aires and Argentina. When you are done with your Playground guide, please pass us on to the next user. We want to get around as much as possible, so if you do like the magazine, pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone that looks like they read a bit of English - the more hands on us the better! We are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want to pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and we’ll get some copies to you. We are free for everyone! We are also keen to hear from eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are interested in collaborating in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback or some of your own favourite playground game ideas, we’d love to hear from you!

Un beso!

Playground Buenos Aires Editor | Amanda Barnes editor@playgroundba.com Design | Pablo Ortiz Avila design@playgroundba.com Distribution & Sales | admin@playgroundba.com Playground Argentina S.A., Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2 Buenos Aires, Argentina www.playgroundba.com

BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR

PLAYGROUND

COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH AND ARGENTINE JAMÓN IN BUENOS AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMÓN! Visit Museo del Jamón in Puerto Madero for an excellent range of seafood, meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads and tapas. Try our unique specialties including Suckling Pig, Salami and Ham imported from Spain and the best providers in Argentina, and Seafood Fideuá. We hope to see you soon! Open every day from 12 till 12 Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As. (011) 4300-5418 info@museodeljamonpuerto.com

CONTENTS Beat the Summer Heat A guide to summer in the city

Tango in BA

A guide to the capital's best tango spots

Discovering Evita

Understanding Argentina's icon

Top 5

The eateries you should know about

Scribbles from a Somm

Wines to start your new year right

Artist in Profile Xul Solar

Focus On

Colegiales. A guide to this underrated neighborhood

Visiting Eden Hotel

An Eagle, Hitler and the strange tale of Argentina's Haunted Nazi Hotel

Ruta del Queso

A cheese lover's pilgrimage

26 Christmas Shopping 28 Tips for the best gifts this Christmas New Year, New You 30 Guide to the Holidays

Tips for spending the festive season in Argentina

Places to meet your New Year's Resolution

A Hiker's Guide to Argentina

The top 5 hiking spots around the country

36 Restaurant Guide 40 Top spots to eat in the city Bar & CafĂŠ Guide 44 Where to drink and be marry Playground Tips 46 Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires Map 48 Where to Find Us 50 Destination Guide

El Calafate & Torres del Paine

Where to get free copies

HOW TO BEAT THE SUMMER HEAT

f last year’s record heat wave is any indication of what’s to come, we’re in for a hot one. If this is your first summer in Buenos Aires, be prepared for black outs, sweaty subte rides and rising temperaments. But it isn’t all bad news… Summer is one of the best times of the year in the city with the infectious buzz of outdoor events, concerts and vacation! DO WHAT THE LOCALS DO This may seem obvious or silly, but look around at what porteños are doing and copy them. (Advice for travel in general.) For example, walk on the shady side of the street, eat when the locals eat, close the persianas during the day, and exercise after sunset - the Palermo parks turn into a veritable exercise highway of bikers/runners/skaters after dark. There’s no need to be a trailblazer in the blazing heat.

EAT AWAY THE HEAT Thanks to the Italians that flooded into the port with their gelato recipes, this city does not want for tasty helado. So eat a lot of it, and often.

Heladerías like Freddo, Volta and Persicco are on every other street corner so you won’t have to search long to get your fix, and they are open late into the night to accommodate porteños’ late dining hours. Grab a friend and share a cuarto de kilo. Popular summer flavors include the classics like dulce de leche, but also fruit sorbets passion fruit (maracuyá), strawberry (frutilla) and lemon (limón). If the options are too overwhelming, try my personal favorite, limón y chocolate amargo. *Bonus local points for taking advantage of discounts and 2-for-1 specials.

some H2O, one option is a stroll or skate through Puerto Madero, stopping along the way to admire the yachts and rowers, or grab a bite at one of the many offerings along the dikes. The high-rises and price tags may feel more like Miami, so if that’s not your scene, grab a bike, some mate and have a picnic in the Ecologic Reserve. A large plot of pure mother nature, a rarity in any metropolis, it’s free and full of shade. Although it’s BYOB (bring your own bondiola), if you forgot, you can always grab some cheap eats at one of the carritos along the Costanera Sur.

For those on a liquid diet, put away the Malbec and Bonarda for the summer, and familiarize yourself with the wonders of Torrontés, Argentina’s star white wine. The best ones generally hail from Salta, in the north of the country, where high altitudes and lots of sun give the grapes a refreshing complexity. A nice chilled glass or two at a local wine bar will be sure to do the trick. Some local favorites include Pain et Vin (Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho), La Cava Jufré (Jufre 201, Villa Crespo), Bar du Marché (Nicaragua 5946, Palermo Hollywood) and Gran Bar Danzon (Libertad 1161, Recoleta). HEAD FOR WATER Although Buenos Aires is on the coast, the city unfortunately doesn’t use its waterfront for much recreation, with few exceptions. If you need

If you’re looking for a more chlorinated option, maybe you’re lucky enough to live in a building with a pileta, or have a friend who will take

THROW IN THE TOWEL, LITERALLY Six years ago the city had the great idea to create an urban beach, the first of its kind in Latin America, where families and friends alike can enjoy some sun, sand and plenty of activities, all free of charge. Buenos Aires Playa (http://agendacultural. buenosaires.gob.ar/evento/buenos-aires-playa-2014) is open from January 10 until March 4, Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 8 PM, with two main beaches and 10 solariums dotted around the city. Check the website for the yellow umbrellas nearest you. If you can’t stand the city’s humidity any longer and feel the need to hop on the Buquebus to Punta del Este, keep in mind that Uruguay is a pricier destination than Argentina. For those who would like to spread their foreign currency a bit further, Argentina also has a variety of beach options, from the resort city of Mar del Plata to the coastal town of Pinamar to the more rustic Mar de las Pampas. Try

to go early though or you’ll run into the rest of Buenos Aires at the beach - most people take their vacation in January after the holidays. For the extremely heat stricken, book a flight to Patagonia and go glacier watching. There’s no shame in quitting when natural wonders are involved. Caitlin McCann is a writer and translator living in Buenos Aires for the last two years. Her favorite Argie activities include drinking wine, learning lunfardo and spotting guanacos on road trips. www.globetrottinggringa.com

pity and invite you over on a hot day to theirs. If not, take advantage of the blue rate and purchase a day pass at the Faena Hotel (Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero) to use their pool. For the more budget conscious, head to one of the city’s public pools at Parque Manuel Belgrano (Palermo) or Parque Presidente Sarmiento (Saavedra) to enjoy the pools for a modest entrance fee. Another popular swimming option is Parque Norte, which claims to be the largest pool complex in South America, spread over 30 acres. It may not be a glam option, but it will assure you some fun, 7 days a week, from 9 AM to 8 PM.

BUENOS AIRES AND TANGO ARE INTERTWINED, MUCH LIKE PARTNERS DANCING TOGETHER. TANGO IS A CONSTANT PRESENCE IN BUENOS AIRES, WITH TANGO MUSIC BLARING IN THE MICROCENTRE, DANCERS EMBRACING FOR TOURISTS IN THE STREETS OF LA BOCA AND SAN TELMO, AND THE DIMLY LIT MILONGAS WHERE TANGUEROS MOVE GRACEFULLY ACROSS THE DANCE FLOOR. THERE’S NO DOUBT THAT TOURISTS TO ARGENTINA NEED TO WITNESS TANGO IN SOME FORM. LUCKILY THERE ARE A NUMBER OF WAYS TO DO THAT. A COUPLE BSAS4U EXPERTS GIVE US THE LOWDOWN CHOOSING A TANGO SHOW A professional tango show might seem at first glance a tourist trap, something punted by touts on Florida Street. However, tango shows are a part of local culture, like any other musical on Corrientes Avenue, so it is common to find Argentines in the audience, whether for business, pleasure, to or celebrate a special occasion at a fancy tango show.

However, the trick is to choose the right tango show for you. There are many options of shows in Buenos Aires, therefore is impossible to talk about the best tango show, as each offers a different experience for different tastes and budgets. To help you choose, here is brief categorisation of the main tango houses of Buenos Aires: THE MODERN, BROADWAY EXPERIENCE If you’re looking for all-round entertainment, beyond just tango, you might prefer the modern tango houses that put on Broadway spectaculars, complete with musical numbers and a modern twist on tango. Señor Tango is a popular choice putting on a real extravaganza on its circus-esque stage. In upmarket Puerto Madero there is Madero Tango, a contemporary show for an international audience, with a chic venue and great views. Another upbeat and trendy show with spectacular choreography, an unbeatable orchestra, and an art-deco theatre setting is Tango Porteño, offering a truly Porteño experience, in the heart of the theatre and musical district of Corrientes.

routes in the neighbourhood of Boedo is Esquina Homero Manzi, arguably the most authentic tango café in the city. Or head to San Telmo, where the venues are as enchanting as their shows. La Ventana is a traditional show for those who love classic tango; El Viejo Almacen offers an intimate show in an original location, and El Querandí is set in a colonial house with authentic wood details and an art deco facade. AN INTIMATE OR ROMANTIC SETTING For those couples looking for a special evening out in Buenos Aires, a tango house with an intimate atmosphere and grand setting will make them fall in love again. Piazzolla Tango offers a romantic ambience in its art nouveau theatre inside Galeria Güemes. A fancy option, paying tribute to another tango legend, is Esquina Carlos Gardel, which offers a top quality show in Gardel´s native neighbourhood, Abasto. But if you’re looking for a more classic feel, try the glamorous Café Los Angelitos; this notable café’s décor will prove why it was declared a place of cultural interest. EXCLUSIVITY AND THE VIP TREATMENT

Attending a tango show is a cultural experience in Buenos Aires. The artistic value of these shows is undeniable, as is the quality of the performers, as most of them are skilled professionals, trained in academies and, in some cases, winners of international tango contests or renowned local artists. The choreography, execution, and professional tango bands are on a level you will not see on the streets.

AUTHENTIC TANGO FOR A BOHEMIAN ENCOUNTER Travel back to tango’s roots with an authentic experience recalling tango’s golden era. The historical tango neighbourhoods offer a more bohemian atmosphere and a perfect setting for visitors looking for a more conservative tango performance, not that it makes it less impressive. Off the typical tourist

Some tango houses offer VIP options, with prime seating and special menus. But if you’re willing to fork out some extra money for a truly extraordinary experience, Rojo Tango is on its own level. Located in the glamorous and eclectic Hotel Faena, this exclusive tango show is styled as a Parisian cabaret, and promises a luxury evening of high-class entertainment.

El Querandí

FESTIVE SEASON SPECTACULARS Finding a place to spend a Christmas Eve or New Year’s Eve in Buenos Aires is a common concern for travellers spending the holidays in the city. Parties on these specific dates are hard to find, as Argentines are very family oriented over Christmas, and Buenos Aires empties out over the festive season when Porteños leave the city en masse to spend the holidays at the nearest beach. If you´re looking for something to do on one of these dates, consider visiting a tango house to celebrate. Tango houses put on a special extravaganza, with a full dinner, unlimited drinks, show and a party. With transport included, this is a

fantastic and unique way to celebrate the festive season. So remember, there is no wrong or right way to enjoy tango in Buenos Aires. Find the right fit for you and lose yourself to the intensity and passion of this beautiful dance.

Bsas4u specialises in tours and activities in Buenos Aires, including tango shows. Bsas4u’s staff is composed of a multilingual team ready to help with any enquiry and its website not only has the most complete list of things to do and travel articles, but also offers great prices with the best value for money.

For the aspiring dancers, and the brave, some houses give tango lessons before the show. Complejo Tango and Piazzolla Tango are good choices for travellers wishing to put on their dancing shoes. Alternatively, visit a milonga for an entirely different experience. You can book a milongas tour for an insider’s view of tango culture, or head out on your own to one of the milongas that has classes for beginners.

Rojo Tango

Tango Porteño

Photos by Daniela Pafundi

DISCOVERING EVITA

va Perón is a name recognized around the globe, made popular for most gringos by the movie Evita starring Madonna, and the famous ballad, “Don’t Cry for me Argentina,” but there is much more to this story than Madonna’s powerful vocals… Don’t leave rgentina without digging deeper into the life of Eva Perón because her legacy has changed the course of Argentine history. Wife of Argentine president Juan Perón while he was in power in the 1940s and 50s, Eva Perón was a talented speaker and became an inspiring public figure for the working class. She showed passion and devotion to helping the disadvantaged in society and her connection to the working class goes back to her early life. Her father had two families as the result of an affair, and she was a child of the mistress. Once her father died, she was not eligible to receive any inheritance, leaving her and her siblings without a penny to their name. Eva then decided to move to Buenos Aires to work as an actress. She found minor success as an actress, but her career really took off when she found her way into the newly booming business of radio and by 1940 she could afford to live independently. This rags to riches tale is a great part of her legacy! Soon after, she met Juan Perón and began her journey into politics. She campaigned with and for her husband as they shared similar political views. Although Juan Perón was president, Evita’s image was the strongest symbol of the Peronist movement as she was able to inspire the masses, especially the working-class, through her convincing and captivating speeches. She worked in building schools and hospitals, campaigned for women’s suffrage, and became an idol for many. However Evita was not loved by all, and her story also comes with its share of controversy. The Peronist government has been accused of fascism, corruption and of being Nazi sympathizers, and still has its many critics who often resent the image of Evita. After the early death of Eva Perón (she died from cancer at just 33), her body was removed from its resting place by the Argentinian military. The military had successfully overthrown Juan Perón’s presidency only three years after Eva Perón’s death and thought her body a sign of the Peronist movement. Her body was taken to and buried in Milan, Italy, under a false name. It was then brought to Juan Perón while he was exiled in Spain, and now, finally, the body rests in the Recoleta cemetery, once again in Buenos Aires.

RE-VISITING EVITA If you want to retrace Evita’s steps in Buenos Aires, plan to visit these spots: LA CASA ROSADA (THE PINK HOUSE) Eva made appearances and speeches on the balcony of La Casa Rosada and thousands of people would fill the surrounding plaza to get a glimpse of their Evita. Balcarce 50, Centro LUNA PARK Evita and Juan Perón met here during a fund-raising campaign. Evita charmed him so quickly that they left the park as a couple. Av. Madero 420, Puerto Madero/San Nicolás PERÓN PERÓN RESTAURANT A Peronism themed restaurant with titled menu items referencing the movements, plenty of memorabilia, and an hourly sing of “La Marcha Peronista” (“The March of the Peronist”). Angel Carranza 2225, Palermo Hollywood THE CABILDO With the risk of disappointing thousands, Eva delivered her famous speech at The Cabildo revealing she would no longer be able to run for office with her husband due to her failing health. Bolivar 65, Centro LA RESIDENCIA The Perons did not live in La Casa Rosada, but lived on this property which has since been torn down and is now reconstructed into the national library. In the library’s garden, there is a monument of Evita and the plaza is dedicated to her. RECOLETA CEMETERY After the strange, trans-atlantic, political journey of her corpse to Italy and Spain, Eva Perón now rests in the Recoleta Cemetery with her family. Visiting her grave is a ‘must do’ for most tourists coming to BA, although truth be told there are far more impressive graves and enormous memorials in this imposing cemetery. Daniela Pafundi is photographer from Buenos Aires, Argentina. She is interested in seeking to capture the magical, ephemeral and wonder of life through photography. She loves to travel and experience other cultures. You can see her work in www.flickr.com/photos/danielapafundi/ Rachel Davies came to Argentina for her love of literature and is spending a year studying the different writers and voices of the country. You can read her travel blog www.rachelrevels.blogspot.com.ar

EATERIES YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT

MARITA Sanchez de Bustamante 2498, Barrio Norte. (11) 4802-6670 Blink and you'd miss this secluded bistro on a tranquil block in Barrio Norte. Owned by a wine sommelier of the same name, Marita is chic and understated, with its white interior, gorgeous flower arrangements and inviting black leather sofas. The menu is concise yet enticing, from sweetbread pinchos to whet the appetite to top notch mushroom risotto and pork loin for mains. Weekly wine tasting events are relaxed affairs, with a different amuse bouche paired with each wine, a steal at 100 pesos.

GRAN DABBANG Av RaĂşl Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, Palermo. (11) 4832-1186. Facebook: grandebban gcafe Open only a matter of months and yet you'd be hard pushed to get a table on a busy Friday or Saturday night. Run by an enthusiastic anglo-Argentine husband and wife team (Mariano is Argentine, Philippa is British) the culinary influences from their stay in Asia are apparent in their liberal use of herbs and chilies in their dishes. For Buenos Aires, famously spice shy, Dabbang is another welcome alternative to the culinary circuit. Swish Chard pakoras with yoghurt and Sriracha are delightfully light and flavoursome,

cornbread with watercress and poached egg an unlikely match made in heaven, and the babbaghanoush the best I've sampled in BA, perhaps in my life. Dishes are seasonal and the prices inflation busting, for now, so don't pass up the chance of a delicious steal.

EL PERLADO HipĂłlito Yrigoyen 1386, Congreso. (11) 4382-8689. Facebook: El Perlado The art deco monochrome decking is the first thing that strikes you with this hip Congreso watering hole. The perfect place to kick off a Porteno evening, the cocktails are both reasonable and well made - they can quickly rustle up a mean margarita and their passionfruit pisco sour is the house speciality. Chances are you'll get seduced by the menu, with the renowned beetroot and goats cheese gnocchi a perennial favourite, along with the winning formula tabbouleh and sensational lamb burgers. Don't forget dessert, the tarte tatin is a memorable afterthought.

YEITE Humboldt 293, Villa Crespo. (11) 4855-6777 The place that everyone has been raving about, and with good reason. Pame Villar, widely recognised as the best pastry chef in BA has set up her first solo enterprise. She currently designs the dessert menu

at Fernando Trocca's Sucre restaurant and features on local Masterchef. The decor is fresh and unpretentious, with flaking paint, overhead spotlights, fern green tiles, and rustic mirrored walls scrawled in marker with the daily specials. The food follows a similar line, with a photocopied paper menu offering simple yet inventive sharing plates like oven roasted pumpkin and yellow beets, seasonal greens with almonds and zucchini fritters with tzatziki. The deserts and baked goods are sheer purgatory for anyone with lax self restraint as is the molten chocolate 'volcan' which is prepared to order, the most worthwhile 15 minute wait you're likely to endure.

ROUX Pena 2300, Recoleta. (11) 4805 6794 wwww.rouxresto.com Roux is Martin Rebaudino's solo project after 18 years as head chef at Oviedo and it's a slick affair. This is contemporary Argentine cuisine at its best, with a molecular slant. Rebaudino marries flavours perfectly in his selection of dishes, seafood being his particular strength. The decor is understated and minimal, the food really does do the talking here. It's not cheap but the ambience and quality of the dishes is top notch and for a memorable night out, Roux hits the spot.

Vanessa Bell is a freelancer and founder of Creme de la Creme, a bespoke personalised shopping service, showing the exclusive and underground BA, from fashion, vintage, art and antiques to interior design and the best kept secret places to eat. (15) 3857 8127 www.cremedelacremeba.com www.facebook.com/cremedelacremeba Instagram.com/cremedelacremeba

Marita

Grand Dabbang

El Perlado

Yeite

Roux

FESTIVE WINE PAIRINGS W

ith a parade of parties ahead, you might want to stock up your cellar with a good variety of bottles. Putting down a big fat Malbec is not going to cut it at every occasion this festive season, so here are some tips on what to stock up on to get everyone in the party mood! NOTHING BEATS BUBBLES When you are in the mood for celebrating, there is nothing quite as jovial as popping a cork on a bottle of bubbly. Although the experts say you should pop it like a posh lady’s fart (ie. keeping the ‘pop’ to a minimum), if you want to incite excitement in the gathering you should do the contrary (pop it loud!) Sparkling wine also has almost magical pairing abilities. Try a better structured, older vintage sparkling wine with some time on the lees or an extra brut rosé to pair with main courses, or pick a lighter and fruitier charmat method sparkling wine for canapé hour or for a motivational morning mimosa. 50 SHADES OF RED While the majority of wine drinkers in

Argentina prefer reds, you want to get the wine just right: go too light and the wine will go unnoticed, go too heavy and you’ll send everyone to sleep. If you are looking at a lunch wine, a leftovers wine or perhaps you are cooking up a turkey this season, pick something on the lighter spectrum. A good Patagonian Pinot Noir will pair very well with most dishes, and Bonarda is a light and fruity wine that will easily go down with most meals. If you are going for a full-blown as asado and chargrilled meat then go ahead with that Gran Reserva Malbec you’ve been saving up all year, a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Petit Verdot for something interesting. DON’T BE TOO PROUD TO DO PINK While it won’t earn you any street cred, pink wines can be your best secret weapon for a catch-all pairing with different foods. Rosé (rosado in Spanish) typically has a higher acidity than reds, but more structure than whites and offers a happy medium in pairing with a myriad of dishes - ideal for a day of leftovers. Dry rosé is the best choice for most meals, but if your

food has a bit more spice, try a rosé with a slightly higher residual sugar. Serve it good and chilled and it is a super Summer wine. SWEET FOR MY SWEET, LATE HARVEST FOR MY HONEY For an end-of-meal cheese platter, Christmas pudding or fruit cake, you’ll want a sweet wine on hand to end on a high note. Try late harvest white wines for blue or salty cheeses, or late harvest or portstyle red wines for chocolate desserts and fruit cake. If you want to come full circle, you could also finish on a sweet bubbly - Argentina offers a massive selection of sweet sparklings - look for Brut (med-dry with touch of sweetness), Demi-sec (semisweet) or Late Harvest (sweet). Amanda Barnes is a wine writer based in South America, traversing the continent with her notepad and corkscrew in hand. You can follow her wine tales on @amanda_tweeter or her websitewww. amandabarnes.co.uk

Daniela Fernandez is a wine lover from La Plata and is currently Sommelier at Francis Mallmann 1884 in Mendoza. She is used to drinking on the job. @Dana_Fernandez_

Scribbles from aW inSesomtom..en.jo y ev en mo re !

lif e

There are lots of articles that suggest there are some wines you must try before you died… Rather than focus on death, I’ve chosen five wines that in my opinion make life worth living. They also make dinner more memorable and, although they are a little expensive, they are worth it! Don’t wait till death to enjoy wines like these - drink them now and create moments to be with you for the rest of your life!

1. Varua Cabernet Sauvignon - 2013 - $845 pesos

"Finca La Anita" winery choose for whichever variety was the best that year, and create their top wine. In 2013 it was a Cabernet Sauvignon. Coming from Agrelo (Mendoza), the wine has a high-intensity of color, really deep, with a fruity nose, plum, well marked blackberry… In the mouth it is characterized by a big structure but is a beautiful combination. Balanced and elegant, beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon. If you want intensity and fruit I definitely suggest this option.

2. Colomé Torrontés - 2014 - $100 pesos

For the white variety, I was interested in choosing something typical from Argentina, so I thought of Torrontés! If you go shopping, you may notice that there are actually different styles of Torrontes. I wanted to pick one that has sophistication, in order to introduce you to this grape and find delicate notes. This winery is located in the Upper Calchaquí Valleys, which is considered the highest altitude viticultural region in the world. Perhaps because it is so close to the sun, the color is a really bright yellow. The aromas are citrus-based, and you can appreciate beautiful flower notes. In the mouth it is fresh and balanced, matching its pleasant fruity nose.

3. Chacra Treinta y dos Pinot Noir - 2012 - $1290 pesos

What an amazing wine! A wine that can tell the world that delicate grapes can also be produced in Argentina. “Chacra” is located in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia. It has a perfect color for a Pinot Noir: light red, shiny, translucent and captivating. But in my opinion the best is in the nose that catches you completely. Red fruit, strawberry and cherry, but with notes of mushrooms and truffles. The palate is subtle, velvety and persistent. I recommend it, it's a memorable bottle.

4. Mendel Unus - 2013 - $310 pesos

Roberto de la Mota is the winemaker in charge, and he is one of the most respected winemakers in Argentina. This is a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The vineyards (up to 80 years old!) are located in Perdriel, Mayor Drumond (Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza) and Altamira (Uco´s Valley, Mendoza). This red wine has an intense and profound color. It has aromas of black cherries, raspberries, blackberries and then appears spices, pepper and mint notes. On the palate it is well structured, with a nice freshness making it easy to drink with round tannins. The combination of grapes makes it so interesting.

5. Nico by Luca Malbec - 2010 - $1215 pesos

In my opinion we could consider this a great ambassador for Argentina. Its color makes you proud to call it a red wine, and I dare you to compare it to any others! If you want to taste true quality from Argentina, I think this could be a nice choice. An intense expression of red and black fruit dazzles its nose, and it makes you want to try it. The aromas in the mouth are very complex and repeat those detected in the nose. A wine that unfolds delicately but with some force... a difficult duo to combine. Try it, you won’t be disappointed!

Anyway, each one has it owns reasons for living… one of mine is wines! Merry Christmas and happy New Year! I hope you have plenty of excuses to toast this season!

Proyecto fachada Delta. 1954 Acuarela. 26 x 36 cm

his edition we have the great pleasure of dedicating our cover to one of Argentina’s most influential artists, Xul Solar. Although the artist passed away almost 52 years ago, his art works live on and his influence continues reaching many new fans through the Xul Solar gallery dedicated entirely to his works and housed in his historic home in Barrio Norte. Amanda Barnes takes a retrospective look at Xul Solar and the worlds he orbited. The birth of Xul Solar Born Oscar Agustin Alexander Schultz Solari in Buenos Aires in 1887, after training as a musician and architect,

MUSEO XUL SOLAR Laprida 1212, Barrio Norte Tues - Fri 12 pm - 8 pm Sat 12 pm - 7 pm $20 pesos entrance www.xulsolar.org.ar

he sailed to Europe as a young adult where he learnt about movements such as Symbolism, Expressionism and Constructivism. During this period he began to formulate his ideas and began his career as an artist, adopting the creative name Xul Solar. His name was one of the first of his explorations into linguistic games. Xul is Lux backwards, meaning ‘light’ in Latin, and Solar (as well as being similar to his birth surname) means ‘Sun’. ‘The light of the sun’ is a theme which would re-appear in many of his works. Traveling Europe, Xul struck up many strong relationships with artists at

the time, but it was perhaps once he returned to Buenos Aires in 1924 that he made some of his closest relationship, becoming part of the ‘Florida group’ with other influential artists including Jorge Luis Borges, who remained a close friend until his death. It didn’t take long after Xul’s return home to find himself at the forefront of the avant-garde movement in Latin America. The many worlds of Xul You only need to look at couple of Xul’s art works to see that he was a genius. His body of work doesn’t just reflect his own artistic tendency, but the creation of different realities, languages and philosophies. An artist

"I am a world champion of a game that nobody yet knows called panchess (Panajedrez). I am master of a script that nobody yet reads. I am creator of a technique, of a musical grafía that allows the piano to be studied in a third of the usual time that it takes today. I am director of a theatre that as yet has not begun working. I am creator of a universal language called panlingua based on numbers and astrology that will help people know each other better.”

Artist profile /// XUL SOLAR

All photo rights belong to Fundación Pan Klub Museo Xul Solar

who is almost impossible to categorize, Xul’s creations range from modifying pianos to have coloured keys so one can play entire compositions and scores by colours not notes; to creating alternative astrology charts and his own set of Tarot cards. Many of his paintings reflect his own religious beliefs and philosophy, which were party informed by Buddhism. There are also two languages which Xul created: Neo Criollo and Pan Lingua, both of which you can observe - although perhaps not fully comprehend - in his art. Xul

Ciuda Lagui - 1939

played many games on and off the canvas. He even created his own version of Chess, or ‘non-Chess’ to be specific. Xul has not only been immortalised in his own creations, but his close friend Borges also immortalised the artist in one of his own semi-fictional tales ‘Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius’ which features Xul as a character. One of his greatest legacies is the Fundacion Pan Klub which his widow Lita Cadenas created in his honour, formalising the Pan Klub (which means ‘universal club’ in his Neocriollo language) which Xul

Cinco Melodias - 1949

Palacio Almi - 1932

Mui wile con yu - 1962

Drago - 1927

himself began as a club for other intellectuals to meet in his home and discuss common interests. The Fundacion now runs the quirky gallery in his old townhouse and continues to promote the work of Xul. The house upstairs is also perfectly preserved with Xul’s enormous collection of books and pictures of he, his wife and friends. Nowadays the best way to enter the world of Xul Solar is through visiting this unique museum and pursuing the works which offer us a glimpse of the vision of this extraordinary man.

Silvio Sierra

he quiet, residential Colegiales, with its tree-lined streets and classic Buenos Aires-style homes, is Palermo Hollywood’s quieter, more laidback neighbor. While it’s not the first barrio that springs to mind when you think about shopping in the city, some of the city’s best shopping secrets are tucked away down unknown streets or behind closed doors and, due to soaring rent prices in Palermo, numerous designers and design houses have set up shop in the

shoes from her small, highly coveted collection. Coming from a background in fashion production and styling, Kessel was bored of seeing the same footwear styles season after season so decided to take the matter into her own hands and start designing and making her own. Her original designs are a welcome relief from those clumpy (some might say unsightly) creeper shoes or sky high stilettos that you see walking the streets of Palermo. She opts for more feminine yet edgy styles with pointy toes, sturdy straps and SILVIO SIERRA This socially-responsible menswear brand run by Silvio José and Javier Herrero works with the NGO Dignidad in the production of their fitted shirts, socks and boxers. Their pieces are all made from 100% cotton and bear fun prints, from stripes and plaid to palm trees and pin up girls. For the summer season, they also have a line of beach mats (a personal fave) featuring the exotic artwork of Lucila Dominguez that are so cool they could pass as wall hangings (check out her other work at www.lucilismo.com) . Their private showroom is housed in a cute white-washed PH-style house

Jessica Kessel Shoes

up and coming hood. Spend an afternoon moseying about the streets of Colegiales and check out some of these gems. JESSICA KESSEL SHOES This fresh-faced young shoe designer receives clients in her bright airy apartment to snap up a new pair of

more manageable heels that are surprisingly comfortable. Her on trend open-heel ankle boots and and two-tone pastel coloured sandals will certainly pack a punch this summer. By appointment only, address given on request, email info@jkshoes.com.ar or call 11 5263 0268, jkshoes.com.ar

Laboratorio de objetos

Granada also sell an assortment of funky objets d’art and some vinyl garden chairs that are on show in the adjoining walled patio. Every design detail of the space is carefully thought out, from the vintage record player playing crackly old records to the open hardback books that cleverly hold the store’s business cards between their pages. Olleros 3295, www.labobjetos.com

Ponele Onda

GRANADA This cute little cornershop caters to your every organic need selling an assortment of fresh and dried produce, hard-to-find herbs, all natural beauty products, and essential oils. The owner also stocks her adorable brand of 100% cotton baby togs and accessories named Mama Loba that features cute onesies, sleeping bags, bibs and the indispensable mei tei in colorful stylish prints. Freire 1102, 4554 2906, www.facebook.com/AlmacenGranada ROOMIE This pop-up fashion showroom is a must for fashionistas. Housed in a very stylish abode in the heart of Colegiales, it takes place twice a year and ties in with the new season’s collections from a rotating rosta of the city’s cream-of-the-crop emerging designers. Shop for leather, cool threads, shoes, jewelry and other accessories for the new season. Check their Facebook page for the next dates www.facebook.com/helloroomie, address given on request, roomie. babylon-lab.com FUEL UP If you need to sit down and re-fuel after your shopping oddyssey in Colegiales check out Astor Bistro for a stylish dinner with contemporary Argentine cuisine Cuidad de la Paz 353, www.astorbistro. com, or closed door restaurant Cocina Sunae www.cocinasunae.com with

LABORATORIO DE OBJETOS This smart-looking boutique sells a well-curated collection of retro and Art Deco-style furnishings with a nod to Scandanavian style that will make you want to remodel your entire house. The main focus of owner Paola Arduino is on beautifully restored furniture, updated with colorful printed upholstery, but she

SECTOR MAP

Ponele Onda

fabulously flavourful Asian dishes. If you are looking for more of a liquid refuel check out the Happy Hour (6-8pm) at Buena Birra Social Club Zapiola 1353, www.buenabirrasocialclub.com, a popular craft beer pub.

Sophie Lloyd is a personal shopper who has been scouting her way around the many shops and designers of Buenos Aires for over 4 years. She offers customized, private shopping tours, group shopping tours, customized shopping itineraries, personal shopping/gift services and even wardrobe edits with her business www. shop-buenosaires.com. Email Sophie at infoshopbuenosaires@gmail.com (11) 3921 0460.

complete with a little indoor terrace where they host the occasional event. Alvarez Thomas 637, Timbre 2, open Tuesday to Friday 6pm to 8.30pm, Saturday 4pm to 8.30pm or by appointment only, www.silviosierra.com While you’re there, poke your head into the adjoining new showroom of Ponele Onda where you can personalize a pair of plain high-waisted jean shorts or boyfriend jeans (that they have in stock) with studs, patches, colorful dyes and other fun embellishments. You can also recycle old clothing and take it along for a creative revamp. www.facebook.com/ veniponeleonda

2-H 3-H

ay 15th, 1937 was a big day at the Eden Hotel, a luxury vacation resort in the western sierras of Argentina’s Córdoba province. In the main dining room, bowtie clad-waiters rushed to and fro nervously, clanking silverware, champagne flutes and preparing table settings for hundreds of guests, all in preparation for a wedding anniversary dinner. The resort’s house orchestra warmed up in the adjacent room, readying for a long live show. Everything had to be just so, for this was not just any other reception; tonight, honored guests arrived to celebrate the 25th “silver” anniversary- or Bodas de Plata- of the Eden Hotel’s owners, Walter and Ida Eichhorn. Wealthy Germans who now called Argentina home, the Eichhorns were excited all day as over-the-top flower arrangements and congratulatory telegrams from all corners of the globe flooded into the hotel in La Falda, the small town that grew up around the resort. It was the guest of honor, German Ambassador to Argentina Edmund von Thermann, who possessed the gift that most delighted the couple. After a decadent meal and free flowing wine, in front of all of their friends, Walter and Ida would beam with pride as von Thermann hand delivered the silver framed portrait, inscribed by the photo’s subject himself, who had scrawled in German:

*** Today, anyone with $35 Argentine pesos and the means to get to La Falda, about an hour and a half drive northwest of the City of Córdoba, can visit the remains of the Eden Hotel for a guided tour (in Spanish). The complex is now owned by the municipality of La Falda,

A gift from Adolf

“Mr. and Mrs. Eichhorn, To my comrades in battle during difficult times for your Silver Anniversary. Warm Wishes, Adolf Hitler”

The Eichhorns’ 25th Anniversary Party with Edmund von Thermann

which coordinates the tours and is also in the process of redeveloping the historic site to function both as a tourist attraction and site for events, shows and educational activities. But unlike most historic attractions in other corners of the world, a visit to the Eden conjures a mysterious if not unsettling sensation of a place that is open for visitors, but is not quite ready to reveal all of its secrets.

There were large terraces for relaxing on warm days, and indoor greenhouse gardens for taking sun during the winter. Game rooms and swimming pools occupied women and children, while men could spend the day hunting foxes aboard the trained horses from the nearby stables. It sounds like an ideal setting to escape the noise, heat and chaos of the city. But was the Eden Hotel the idyllic paradise that it claimed to be?

Patrons enjoying drinks in the Eden’s first floor bar

Built during Argentina’s “Golden Age” in 1898 by a different German immigrant, the Eden Hotel was purchased by the Eichhorn brothers in 1912. They appreciated the agreeable climate and beautiful scenery of the Punilla Valley and the nearby mountains that surrounded the 100-room hotel. The Eichhorns invested heavily in improving the property in the 1920’s, where the elite of Argentina and the world would come to visit for days, weeks or sometimes even months on end. Before the journey from Córdoba was arduous- the Eichhorns paved the roads and bought a fleet of Ford Model-Ts to transfer guests in comfort, at least those not rich enough to arrive by plane to the resort’s private landing strip.

During the daytime guided tour, guests filter through the main entrance first watch a short movie explaining the basic history of the site. Next comes a visit to the meticulously restored bar, followed by the main dining room. Here you learn of the original decadence, followed by the dark Nazi secrets, and finally the post-WWII ruin of the hotel. In the same dining salon where the Eichhorns celebrated their anniversary with the personalized gift from arguably the world’s most powerful and evil man, you discover that after the hotel was abandoned in 1947, off and on for 50 more years the horses of local farmers used the looted dining room to eat, sleep and “do their business.”

Following the visit to the main restored portions, visitors are guided to the second floor and up a large staircase to see the largely unrestored ‘bones’ of the guest lodging areas. Although they have been cleared of the mounds of debris and graffiti that were a result of years of abandonment and neglect, these spaces provide a clear reminder that this place was once the height of beauty and luxury, but is now paying for its sins. You must be careful not to step in holes in the floor, and not to stray too far down an unblocked hallway while the rest of the

Albert Einstein (center, dark coat and hat) during a visit to the Eden in 1925, part of a scientific conference.

The main dining room during the hotel’s heyday.

***

group moves on. Seeing these bare walls, smelling the dust and chipped painted, and hearing the footsteps on the broken tile brings out the stories of the ghosts: a young girl who died from a case tuberculosis, kept hidden as not to alarm other guests; an apparition of the wife of the first owner, wearing her best white dress and ornate hat, standing there on the balcony. More substantive than whispers of lingering spirits are the photos of the famous guests on the walls, who over the years included not just four Argentine presidents but also Albert Einstein, the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Savoy, famous Nicaraguan poet Rubén Dario, and acclaimed Italian conductor Arturo Toscanini. From the restored presidential suite where some of these guests slept, the balcony provides a view of the entire front of the property and the remains of the fountains and the gardens. From this same vantage point 80 some years ago, you would have been able to see two things that are no longer remain: the large German eagle emblem that was the centerpiece to the hotel’s façade, and a radio antenna, big and tall enough to send and receive transmissions from the other side of the world. This antenna carried Hitler’s live speeches to the Nazi sympathizers in Córdoba, and sent messages back from the secret meetings of the Eichhorns and their collaborators. ***

Walter and Ida Eichhorn in Germany in the 1930’s, meeting with Hermann Göring and Adolf Hilter (right)

After Argentina abandoned its pro-Axis stance and declared war on Germany in 1945 only three weeks before the official armistice, local authorities seized the Eden Hotel as “enemy property.” Anti-fascist Argentines, some from the same group that Ernesto “Che” Guevara’s father participated with, raided the property and tore down the giant German eagle, seeing it as a symbol of Nazism. Legend has it that the eagle was later restored by the municipality, but destroyed again when struck by lightning during a thunderstorm. The anti-fascist locals had reason to be concerned: it is estimated that Walter and Ida Eichhorn helped contribute more than 30,000 deutschmarks (roughly equivalent to US $1 million today) to Hitler and the Nazi party, collecting the money in Argentina from local sympathizers and German expatriates and funneling it to the Nazi Ministry of Propaganda in the name of Joseph Gobbels. During frequent visits to Germany in the 1920’s, Walter Eichhorn became a supporter of Hitler early in his political career, helping the Fürher finance an aircraft and Mercedes-Benz to help him campaign. For this early loyalty Walter was later rewarded with gifts and private audiences with Hitler and his highest generals, including the infamous and flamboyant Hermann Göring. These sinister connections alone are enough to add to the uneasy feeling one gets while visiting the halls of the Eden, but the story does not end there. Only some months after Hitler’s suicide in his Berlin bunker, the United States’ Federal Bureau of Investigations, or FBI, released a secret memo that was declassified in the 1990’s. Penned by J. Edgar Hoover, the document connects the Eichhorns to the founding of the Nazi party, Hitler’s rise, and their close friendship. Most ominously, it suggests that if Hitler somehow did survive, he would surely find refuge in a place far-flung from Europe and his allied enemies. In all the world, the memo singled out one place: La Falda, Argentina. *** In the ensuing years since the collapse of the decadence of the Eden Hotel, conspiracy theories of several different varieties have developed surrounding the resort’s strange history. Many books and exposés have been written by historians and journalists, several documentaries filmed and even a fictional Argentine TV drama called “Eden” was set in the era. At times it has been difficult to separate fact from fiction,

Declassified FBI document proposing Hitler’s possible refuge in La Falda.

historic record from rumor. But there is no shortage of intrigue. The ancestors of Eichhorns supposedly still live in the area, but add to the controversy by refusing to talk to the media. Citizens have come forward to confess that their parents had revealed a hidden past as Nazis who fled Germany for new lives and identities in Córdoba. Adolf Eichmann, the author of Hitler’s horrid “final solution”, found refuge under an assumed name in Argentina and is said to have frequently visited La Falda before his eventual capture in the 1960’s. Supposedly one of his sons married the daughter of the hotel’s former gardener. When a German ship, the Graf Spee limped into a South American port in 1939, many of the crew abandoned the ship and integrated into Argentine society, many becoming waiters at the Eden Hotel. ***

A visit to La Falda can create a range of emotions, and raise complex questions. The remains of the Eden do not represent the spirit of justice, as those who ardently supported the Nazi regime in spirit and monetarily quietly slipped back into Argentine society. The town became a pilgrimage site for Nazis on the run- to include some of their most sinister leaders. Today, the city that was born because of the resort has started to restore it. In one aspect it is a tool to tell the entire story of the hotel’s past. They do a good job of providing the complete history, including the darkest parts of the Nazi roots. It is not a memorial, but a symbol of what can befall decadence and evil. In another aspect, the city is using the complex to improve the life and culture of the local citizens. In addition to university extension spaces, the common areas can be rented for weddings and other events. If you decide to visit, you will no doubt contemplate these paradoxes as you tour the halls, or imbibe in wine and cheese in the visit’s finale, a tasting in the hotel’s wine cellar. For the truly brave there is a nighttime “ghost tour” two or three times a month and according to a varying schedule. A group of at least 50 people are guided through the darkness, trying to hear the whispers of ghosts over the chatter of nervous Argentines. If you close your eyes, you might picture the glittering parties, hear the faint orchestra, and the hair may stand up on the back of your neck. You may not smile, but one thing is for sure: you will never forget your visit to the Eden Hotel. FOR MORE INFORMATION Eden Hotel Av. Eden 1400 La Falda / Provincia de Córdoba / Argentina (03548) 421080 – 426643 / (03548) 15630627 info@edenhotellafalda.com Day tours (Spanish) Every day from 9:30 am to 19 pm hs. $35 pesos per person with. (special retirement or student rates available) Children under 10 are free.

Night tours (Spanish) 3 nights per month (check website http:// edenhotellafalda.com/visitas-nocturnas/) Tour begins 2200 (approximately 1 hour and 40 minutes) $45 pesos per person. Children under 10 not admitted. Jared Wilhelm is an American engineer and pilot, currently on scholarship to attend the Universidad Nacional de Cuyo in Mendoza. Passionate about flying, traveling and wine, he tries to avoid more than two of the three at the same time. @jaredwilhelm

Quesos de Suipacha

CHEESE TRIPPING VISITING THE RUTA DEL QUESO

If you’re looking for a daytrip outside of Buenos Aires or perhaps have a penchant de fromage, look no further. Beth Delthony hits the road and takes us along the Ruta del Queso (cheese route) in Suipacha.

If you love blueberries, then don’t miss Plantación de Arándanos Il Mirtilo (RN5 km 122.5, Sat & Sun, 10-1 & 3.30-6.30, 011 15-5120-4564, www.ilmirtilo.com.ar). This blueberry farm produces many different blueberry related products - juices, jams and more. They offer guided tours of the farm, which can include a lunch on their property.

ust an hour and a half outside of Buenos Aires, in the small town of Suipacha you will find the little known Ruta del Queso (Cheese Route). There are several queso (cheese) shops to visit, a blueberry farm and a wild boar farm. If you want to do it yourself and are just interested in buying some local treats, you can just stop into any or all of the shops, they all allow you to sample some of the cheese prior to selecting your purchases. Or you can organise a cheese route, and book tours (in Spanish) at some of the many producers. Just print out the PDF map from the Ruta del Queso website (www.rutadelqueso. com.ar) for all the details. Most tours need to be booked through the Ruta del Queso website.

Tienda Almacén 126

Quesos de Suipacha Quesos Sign at Fermier Quesos de Campo

Suipacha is a sleepy but cute little town, you can see all of it in one day, but if you want to spend the night or find yourself in a cheese coma, there’s a hotel in the centre of town (www.altosuipacha.com) with a restaurant and small shopping area attached. The first shop you will encounter on Ruta 5 is Quesos Fermier (RN5 km 118, open daily 9-6, 02324 15 53 18 97, www.quesosfermier.com). Their quaint little shop is open for visitors daily from 9am-6pm. They have cheese and many regional products including teas, wines, blueberries and much more for sale, and you can do an organised cheese and wine tasting or take a tour of their cheese making facilities.

Just up the road, past the Entrance to the town of Suipacha, you will find Quesos de Suipacha (RN5 km126, open daily, 8-8, 02324 15-64-6048, Facebook: Quesos-de-Suipacha). This shop is much bigger and carries a larger assortment of cheeses and locally produced products, jams, sauces, olive oil and more. Although they don’t have samples always set out if you ask they will let you try some of the products. They also run a small café if you want a coffee or dessert break. If you’re doing a Ruta del Queso tour, this is where you will meet your guide. Further down Ruta 5 is Cabaña Piedras Blancas (RN5 km129.3, open Mon, Tues & Thurs 9-6, Fri-Sun 10-6, 0810-777-0272, www. cpiedrasblancas.com.ar). They offer wine and cheese tastings on the weekends, and a tour of their farm. Otherwise you can just stop into their small shop and sample a few cheeses, their goat cheeses are some of the best Argentina has to offer. They only carry their brand here, but they have the largest variety we had seen anywhere, including vacuum sealed cheddar, so if you’re a lover of all things cheddar like we are, then

Once you’ve finished your cheese voyage, if you want any non-dairy souvenirs try Almacén 126, open Friday-Sunday. The Ruta de Queso is a great chance to get out and explore a different side of Argentina. If you’re like us you’ll probably head home with more cheese than you know what to do

with! So plan ahead and make sure to buy some fresh and some vacuumed sealed cheeses to avoid certain dairy overload. Then crack one open and enjoy it with some of the blueberry wine you couldn’t help yourself from picking up. Beth Delthony is a lawyer turned travel writer who has been busy exploring South America for the past few years. Check out more of her food, wine and other adventures on her website. Planning a trip, ask her for tips! www.SantiagoTourist.com @BethDelthony

make sure to stock up here. The last option for your tour is La Escuadra (Cuartel Rural XII, Parcela 697, open Sat & Sun from midday, 02324 497170, www.la-escuadra. com.ar). Located through the town, this wild boar farm and restaurant is a little difficult to get to (especially if you are driving in heavy rain!) Take the main road through Suipacha, Padre Brady, after about 3 kilometers when the road makes a sharp turn to the left, take the dirt road to the right and then just follow the signs. Open at weekends for tours and tastings, and with a restaurant offering a fixed menu with jabalí (wild boar) as the star.

Product display at Fermier Quesos del Campo

Welcome Sign at Fermier Quesos de Campo

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24 AT HOME | This is normally the night that everyone goes to the pub to get a bit drunk and slap each other on the back with early Christmas greetings. Kids go to sleep early to make sure Father Christmas definitely comes, and while they are pretending to sleep most parents are manically wrapping the presents before dawn break and indulging in a cheeky glass of port or sherry, perhaps in between midnight mass and church services. IN ARGENTINA | This is the big one. When anyone asks you how you are spending Christmas, they actually mean ‘What are you doing on the 24th?’ Shops are packed in the afternoon with a bit of gift buying and most importantly everyone buying their picada and asado. The party starts at around 9pm as families all gather together for big dinners, which might be a BYO buffet or BBQ. At midnight you all step out to see the huge explosion of fireworks in the sky and by the time the biggest fireworks have dimmed there is usually a huge pile of presents for the kids from family, or Father Christmas if he still exists. Present unwrapping mayhem and plenty more energy keeps the household buzzing way beyond midnight. At 2am is when the party really starts… Nightclubs are packed with massive dance parties that carry on until the very late hours of Christmas morning! This is one of the biggest party nights of the year. AT HOME | Ahhh… Christmas Day. The moment that every child has been waiting for. Their parents might take them to Church in the morning to fidget all the way through a Christmas morning service, but we all know that every child is only thinking about one thing today – what is sat under the Christmas Tree. And that is a huge stack of presents. On the return home it is wrapping paper everywhere, excited cries, sweat and maybe a few tantrums. And then of course, the family Christmas lunch: massive portions of roast birds with all the trimmings, Christmas crackers, silly paper hats, bad jokes and perhaps the odd argument over Trivial Pursuit. Snoozing in front of the TV by 9pm. IN ARGENTINA | As everyone still recovers from the night before, the 25th is a much more mellow day perhaps with a family BBQ but more likely taking a long siesta and maybe finding a little spot in the sunshine to soak up some summer sun.

AT HOME | Perhaps the equivalent of the 25th for Argentines, the 26th (or Boxing Day for the Commonwealth crew) is a day for pigging out on leftovers, watching Christmas specials on TV, perhaps seeing the other side of the family you didn’t spend yesterday with, and just generally being lazy. IN ARGENTINA | What is the 26th? Nothing. It’s back to work.

Amanda Barnes is a travel and wine writer who has been celebrating Christmas in Argentina (and neighbouring Uruguay) for the last 5 years. Her favourite new Christmas tradition is a massive water fight in the sunshine with whomever is unfortunate enough to be looking down the other end of her mega soaker! www.amandabarnes.co.uk @amanda_tweeter

5 AT HOME | “Why are you bothering me on the 5th of January? Leave me alone, January sucks. Ahh crap… I need to take down the Christmas Tree.”

IN ARGENTINA | Another of the most anticipated days for children around the country! The day of the Wise Men! While secularists in the northern hemisphere have almost forgotten that the wise men were still travelling to visit the Baby Jesus, no child in Argentina has forgotten, because the Epiphany means more presents! Children leave their shoes by the door, and grass and water for the camels, in anticipation for the Three Kings’ arrival. Overnight the living room magically transforms into a playroom filled with brightly-wrapped gifts and this is the second chance for kids to get that gift that has been on their wish list all year (which perhaps didn’t make it under the tree for Christmas). Adults might eat an epiphany cake, but the day more likely marks the moment that you need to clear away the decorations and the 6th is the day when you can no longer use Santa or the Wise Men as an excuse to make the kids behave.

AT HOME | Hangover. And putting off your New Year’s Resolutions till tomorrow. Some nutters by the coast go out for a morning dip in the freezing cold sea. That will see off the hangover!

IN ARGENTINA | Hangover. And maybe a family lunch or BBQ. It is glorious weather outside so a dip in a swimming pool is a great bonus, and maybe add a nice cool glass of beer.

AT HOME | Party night. You’ll probably be tired of people asking you what your New Year’s Eve plans are by now, and you’ve probably re-thought your New Year’s outfit at least a dozen times. This is one of the biggest going out nights of the year with a ton of pressure to have fun (and consequently often a bit of a let down too!) The party probably starts at 7 or 8pm, and everyone gets progressively more merry as you wait for the clock to begin striking. With the big count down to midnight (10, 9, 8…) you urgently search for someone to give you a midnight kiss or snog, and then stutter through the words of Auld Lang Syne (does anyone know those?) Once you make it past midnight, it is all downhill from there: sloppy drunks and waiting for hours to grab a taxi home. IN ARGENTINA | Pretty much a repeat of the 24th, although not always as big. Around 10pm families reunite for another large dinner party – whether you are doing ‘a la canasta’ (BYO) or a BBQ. As midnight arrives there’s a brindis (or cheers) and it is back outside for another massive fireworks display, although this time even bigger than the 24th. If you’ve still got some energy, at about 2am it is party time again and everyone heads to the boliche (nightclub).

Daniela Fernandez is an Argentine sommelier who enjoys celebrating all the holidays with a good glass of Argentine Malbec! @Dana_Fernandez_

Are you spending your first Argentine Christmas here and are stuck for gift ideas to give to the family kind enough to host you on the special day? Or perhaps you are heading home and want to stock up on traditional Argentine gifts to bestow upon your curious family? Local Daniela Fernandez gives us the lowdown on what to take home from Argentina, or what to gift an Argentine family this year.

WHAT TO TAKE HOME

WHAT TO GIFT HERE

1. Dulce de Leche Dulce de leche is the typical sweet treat from Argentina. It can be used for breakfast smothered on toast, or during the day with Alfajores, or filled in chocolates. This gift is for people who have sweet tooth. You have different brands to choose from: La Serenísima is a traditional one, Havana would be a bit more exclusive, or you can try the option of artisanal dulce de leche like Cabaña, Piedras Blancas or Minotauro. Although there are many brands, don’t worry, they are all really nice!

1. Some object or ritual that is famous in your country People in Argentina love to learn about other countries, they are very curious about other cultures. Perhaps in your country there is a different activity you do during Christmas or New Year? It could be a nice idea to share it with the people who invited you to their celebrations. We love to hear stories of what people do in their own homes, so tell us how your family celebrate Christmas! If you want to prepare any typical delicacies those are welcome too!

2. El Mate This is a typical tea infusion from Argentina, most of the people drink it in the morning, there are others who prefer it in the afternoon with pastries, and there are some (although fewer) people who drink mate at night. One recommendation is that if you are going to bring mate to your country, you must also buy the equipment, which includes a bombilla, yerba and if you want also a thermos flask. You can add sugar, coffee, mint, orange peel, or I love it with honey! If you have any doubts check our last Playground edition where you’ll find a mate article!

2. Wine, sparkling wine or something similar During the holiday season in Argentina, it is common to make toasts repeatedly. So it is never a bad idea to bring a bottle or two! Here you have several options, either bring something typical from your country, or ask what the people who invite you like, or you could choose a nice sparkling wine - this is one of the most traditional drinks in Argentina for a toast. Don’t forget that when you say Cheers in Argentina, you must keep eye contact with them and say something like "I wish the coming year is filled with happiness"

3. Wine… Malbec of course Argentina is the fifth largest wine producing country in the world. So it could be a good idea to bring a beautiful bottle of wine home to your friends or family. Malbec is the variety that has made Argentina famous for quality wines, so this could be the best choice. There is a huge variety to choose from, so take your time, taste lots of them and then choose!

3. Fun Activities This suggestion is only recommend for get-togethers that are not too formal, and in which there will be people that are fun… don’t pick a conservative family otherwise you might seem a little crazy! But if you have fun hosts, take them a fun game from your country! Prepare your own props, and you are guaranteed a memorable night!

4. Tango CD There are a lot of people who travel to Argentina to see a Tango Show or visit a traditional Milonga. Take a taste of tango home with a CD. You can choose between traditional sounds like Carlos Gardel, or the different style of Astor Piazzola. There are also really good current day groups like Color Tango or Narcotango. Listen to them, enjoy it and then pick one.

4. Bring out your culinary side It's a very kind gesture to bring something to a dinner that you have made yourself. Take a dessert, or a typical recipe from your country (which will also help you if you feel a bit homesick). Remember that it is always worth asking the preferences and dietary restrictions of the hosts first to make sure everyone likes it.

BEYOND THE GIFTS, ACTIVITIES AND PARTIES ... DO NOT FORGET TO MAKE SPECIAL WISHES FOR THE YEAR TO COME! MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!

t’s that time of year again! To shed the skin of your old self and clothe oneself in the pelt of the new, improved self. What is your achilles’ heel? Are you dying to get fit? Want to squeeze into that tango skirt? Maybe looking to pick up a new skill? Or hone a talent to blow out the cobwebs of tired routines and conversation? Helen Appleby rounds up some of BA’s top spots to let loose on any New Year’s Resolution.

1. GET FIT. LOSE WEIGHT d get - PERSONAL TRAINING - but lack the requisite self-discipline to put down the helado anmot Want to tone your butt harassed and encouraged by a personal trainer to keep you ivated off the sofa? Need to bee your goals? and w ill and on target to achiev explorer Mark Kalch who has kayaked the Amazon's length pla in Then you need championo shape. Sessions are efficient, effective and fun, taking ence or gth int str ed se soon get you whipp lose weight, increa to nt wa you er eth Wh ks. par BA ul tif your home or the beau ss Mark can train you to achieve your goals. overall health and fitne mark.kalch@gmail.com www.markkalch.com start running the streetsy to e - CROSSFIT tim st be the be not ht mig r me sum t bread bab Whilst the sw eaty Portenseio ze to do something about tha ity un ort opp al nu an s thi ss craze to fit not t that's no excuse Crossfit! The curren ithnethe : ed ne you d lize rea you e tim young s It' g. you've been nurturin barrios of BA. Expect open plan, air conditioned spaces w hitting the fashionable ting it out in intense cross training activities. and beautiful of BA sw ea la Crespo www.crossfitunidos.com - Vilnto wn www.crossfitrex.com - Dow sfitRe coleta - Recoleta www.facebook.com/BiggCros 2 PICK UP A NEW HOBBY gh- TANGO DANCING - here... and still not tried Tango? Come on! You don't need a thi sse cla en ny be ma How long have you en rock up alone and d experiesnce a ev can u Yo ics. bas the joy en to els nish an slashing skirt and he et people, practice your Spa me to y wa at gre A on. cti tru ins h wh glis cas ere you may be grabbed cti pra offer En s las t-c pos er off es nu ve ny Ma . ce floor. genuine slice of Porteno life fully tw irl you round thel dan art ill w o wh ee orc div red bandolera hai er the silv if d by an experience , F olklore, Rock n Rol ing Sw sa, Sal of s sse cla er off o als www.lavirutatango.com : www.lacatedralclub.com ain't your thing. Also try r - POLE DANCING vate life, get you fit andswbooeestpinyou pri r you up ce spi ill w t tha g by hob w ne ze Are you looking for a ncing might be the answ er for you. An underground cra of fun too. self confidence? Pole Da is exhausting w ork using all over body strength but is a lot through BA, pole dancing

s, while ength training focused claitsse str e mor ers off ar om. io.c tud ces ty. an flir rtd www.a burlesque to keep of ch tou a add ill w .ar .com nce lda ica www.fitvert 3. DETOX up, cut out the carne lf rse you - GO VEGGIE ce jui , ing llbe we to te rou e e passiv ithout F or those looking for a mor body and polish the halo w out the se an cle to ats tre ian tar ed dishes, ge ve spr hy ? Vegan delights, and try some healt ies oth smo d an ces jui it fru sh fre nt breaking into a sw eat. Wathe green stuff. Look no further than these cafe/restaurants raw and creative use oftasty healthy food. specializing in creative, nt.com.ar , P alermo. www.biorestaura la) ma ate Gu r rne (co 2 219 dt bol Hum , .com fe Bio Ca www.artemisianatural .ar . rmo ale P lo, va Are of r ne cor i rrit Go Artemesia, ralezasabia.com.ar 54, San Telmo. www.natuna Naturaleza Sabia, Balcarce4,64San .ar Telmo. www.hierbabue .comrmo .com Hierba Buena, Caseros 45 r of F itzroy), P ale . www.bsasverde rne (co 57 56 i rrit Go , rde Ve s ire A os Buen 4. BALANCE YOUR QI turies for a huge array s?of cen - ACUPUNCTURE for d use en be e hav ine dic Me l rba aning to addres Acupuncture and Chinese He cern you have been mepun con h alt he g glin nig a had you re might be e Hav health problems. niggling back pain? Acu tibctu or skin r you ith w s ue Iss ? ue pinprick and a tig le Fa Digestive issues? ink tiny, impercep Th . ng nti fai or les ed ne c rmi ode hyp the answ er. Don't think floating aw ay into deep relaxation. You don't need to understand how blissed out sensation of nefits. Strongly recommended! it w orks to reap the be ined in New York and takes a holistic tra o wh s ire A os en Bu re ctu pun Acu Try Lauren Dulberg at approach to your health. aires.com www.acupuncturebuenos BA Facebook.com/Acupuncture 5 LEARN A LANGUAGE you'd rather - WHERE TO LEARN SPAwNIithSH you ersonating pigs to imply Ca imp or s, hay cas d an les cal r llano! If you're still grappling n maybe it's time you started a course to brush up your ste try the cerdo than steak, theits' student population and free university education you couldit: a In a country known for rsity of Buenos A ires and make some friends whilst you're at group class at the Unive

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/spanish.php www.uba.ar/ingles/foreign r-friendly, like: utions that are foreignentr Or Spanish language instit Micro Ce o. www.expanish.com 8, 69 ron Pe D an Ju al. Gr e. Tt , ish Expan e? Go for one-on-one private classes: Feeling shy or short of tim .ar http://www.babelargentina.com .com bly ee rs.w che http://topspanishtea 6. LEARN A NEW SKILL r - INDIAN COOKERY COURcSEspi-ce in your life? When Preeti Salwar arrived from Mumbaihewrithowhe n up nti Missing a bit of authe d by the lack of authentic tasting Indian food. So she set one off partner she was shocke e how to cook spicy Indian food here in BA. Come along for a you get to endeavor to teach peopl cook delicious lamb biryanis prawn tikkas and more. Best of all course and learn how to ts home w ith you. take your culinary effor ice www.facebook.com/itsmysp 7. FIND INNER CALM le chances are there is a sty s an - YOGA me ich wh BA in re he e hug is a d, yog e athletic In case you hadn't noticeFro d whether you want a morthe an ced an adv to r ne gin be m options to . you t m and location to sui d relaxation. P ick fro an y ilit xib fle s ard tow d are ge one to ashtanga style class e to meet the real you. s. Lovely warm community of below, get Ommm your matEnanglisd hpreanpar Spanish. Multiple location Buena Onda - Classes in M. A. Jose dde Sucre 2357, Belgrano. P araguay 2041, 5B, Recoleta. teachers and travellers. . www.buenaondayoga.net Balcarce 958, San Telmo relaxation in Shavasana. Expect to float home. F izt Roy 2207, P alermo Urban Lotus - A-maazing m www.urbanlotuspalermo.co tion in P alermo Soho and all styles of yoga taught. English and Spanish V alle T ierra - Great loca www.valletierra.com spoken. Costa Rica 4562, P alermo Soho. 8. HELP OTHERS - BECOME A VOLUNTEER - are at and feel like spreading the love to others. Why not make a Maybe you like where you e's life and do some voluntary w ork whilst here in BA. backgrounds real difference to someonamazing hostel set up for orphans or children from difficult tak s Soles en el Camino is an family right now. You can volunteer provisions or your time, iringschkid ool the ir who can't be w ith the g make a child's birthday a memorable time or helping w ith out on excursions, helpin amino.org.ar branch of SACS (Send a ian tin en homew ork. www.solesenelc Arg the s ard tow y erg en d an time Or you could contribute youer bac d pens to under-privileged kids. an s pad ith w en lad cks kpa vid pro Child to School) who ing ires around the country engag ts Facebook.com/SACSBuenosA jec pro t ren fe dif ith w rity cha ion inclus ation and enrich their situ ng livi F undacion Si is a social fe ir the e rov imp lp he to ts jec rent pro d the city vulnerable groups in difr for by signing up to walk aroveunrsa hts nig le ltip mu or ht nig one tion to tee ully generate a con lives. You can volun ef hop d an t, coa a d an al me rm wa a offering homeless people ards a better standard of living. www.fundacionsi.org.ar help them take steps tow Helen Appleby is a massage therapist and yoga teacher who helps people reach some omm in their own lives. Check out her blog at www.onawingandaprayerblog.wordpress. com or if you need to get your body relaxed to a celestial state contact her for a massage on hels22@hotmail.com

A HIKER’S GUIDE TO ARGENTINA THIS IS THE TIME OF YEAR THAT EVERYONE IS LOOKING TO GET FIT AND ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS, AND ARGENTINA HAS PLENTY OF BEAUTIFUL HIKING SPOTS THAT ARE IDYLLIC FOR DOING JUST THAT. NOELLE SMITH COUNTS DOWN THE TOP 5 PLACES TO HIKE IN ARGENTINA.

great trails. Parque Nacional Calilegua is one of the most accessible. Located in the subtropical zone, the park is much greener than Cafayate. The park has something for everyone, with short strolls as well as challenging full-day hikes. It is also known for its extensive fauna, so take a few longer breaks near streams to see what you can spot. For hikers looking for a longer hike, a week-long trek from the park’s western boundary via the ancient Inca trails in the Sierra de Zenta will take you to Humahuacha.

4 | CORDOBA

5 | SALTA AND JUJUY

Cafayate Hikers often overlook the northern parts of Argentina, but the provinces of Salta and Jujuy offer beautiful trekking through the Andes highlands overlooking stunning rock formations and distinct volcanoes. Since it will likely be hot when you visit, hiking to a waterfall is always a crowd-pleaser. The Rio Colorado runs about six kilometers outside of Cafayate, a town in the southern part of the province of Salta. If you follow the river upstream for about an hour and a half you reach a waterfall, set in the scenic red rock of the Quebrada de Cafayate. You can swim in this waterfall, and a second waterfall further up. For more thirst quenching, make sure to stop by a winery in Salta, as the region is famous for its unique torrontés white wine. The northern region is home to several national parks that have

Sierra Grande The province of Cordoba is known for the Sierras Chicas and Sierras Grandes mountain ranges that run through it. Although much smaller than their Andean counterparts, the sierras have their fair share of trails. To begin your hiking adventure, start out in La Cumbrecita, a quiet little town in the Valle de Calamuchita. The mountains surrounding La Cumbrecita are filled with beautiful cascades and waterfalls, all accessible by short trails from town. For those looking for a challenge, Cerro Champaquí, the highest peak in the Sierras at 2790m, is close by and this two-day trek offers unparalleled views of the Sierras. Many guide companies also offer excursions up the mountain. The Capilla del Monte area north of Cordoba is home to Cerro Uritorco. This three to four hour hike is worth it for its natural

beauty, but many visitors come for extra-terrestrial beauty as this peak is known for frequent UFO sightings. Theories abound as to thereason, ranging from a supposed mysterious underground city to Holy Grail lore, but regardless of their veracity, arriving at the summit is worth the visit (with or without UFOs!)

2 | PATAGONIA

3 | BARILOCHE

Parque Nacional de los Glaciares

Laguna de los Tres - El Chalten Located in Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, the region is home to countless lakes, lush forests, and spectacular mountains. From Bariloche city center, you can easily access numerous hikes of all difficulty levels. The Llao Llao loop combines beautiful views of the lakes surrounding mountains, and is accessible by bus (no. 20) towards Hotel Llao-Llao where you walk past the Parque Municipal Llao-Llao headquarters towards Cerro LlaoLlao. You can combine the small peak with other nearby attractions, such as Bosque de Arrayanes, Lago Escondido, and Playa Moreno to make about a four-hour loop. For hikers looking for a more adventurous experience, check out the extensive system of refugios in the mountains around Bariloche. Refugios are relatively cheap and offer a place to stay as well as hot meals. Refugio Frey, which can be accessed by a trail beginning at the Cerro Catedral ski area, is an ideal place to begin your journey. From this lovely refugio, hikers can access the high mountain area of Nahuel Huapi with various other refugios. The Club Andino Bariloche, located in the center of town can be helpful in selecting which specific circuit is best for you. Finally, if you are looking for a classic alpine experience with a manageable amount of challenge, be sure to visit Cerro Lopez. A steep, but well-maintained trail leads hikers to Refugio Lopez (or take the dirt road by car). From there, a climber’s trail goes to the summit, which involves a bit of fun scrambling at the end. From the summit, hikers are rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding area. Many hikers opt for this summit as a more adventurous and equally spectacular alternative to the touristy Cerro Campanario. After all that hiking you’ll deserve to indulge in the chocolate shops in Bariloche city!

In Patagonia, the desolate, wind-swept steppe gives way to jagged, snow-covered peaks. The stunning scenery, combined with an abundance of glaciers and lakes makes for a spectacular - and vast - hiking destination. Patagonia is home to El Chaltén, a small town at the foot of the mountains known at the hiking capital of Argentina. It is a well-deserved name, as a plethora of excellent trails depart directly from the town into Parque Nacional de los Glaciares. While you are in El Chalten, you can’t miss Lago de los Tres, a small lake set at the base of imposing Mount Fitz Roy (the inspiration for the outdoor company Patagonia’s brand). The gradual ascent along the wellmaintained 12.5 km trek begins at a trailhead at the north end of town. The last few kilometers of the trail are very challenging, but the view at the top is well worth the climb.It would be impossible to talk about hiking in Patagonia without mentioning the W-Trek in Torres del Paine National Park. Although located across the border in Chile, Torres del Paine is a classic Patagonian destination and only 4 hours from El Calafate by bus. The W-Circuit is a five to seven day loop that allows hikers to see the most magnificent parts of Torres del Paine, and is considered one of the best treks in the world. Refugios along the way provide hot meals and lodging, although many hikers choose to camp. Make sure to book well in advance though, as spots fill up during high season. You don’t have to do multiple day hikes, there are plenty of look outs your can reach in just one day too, and hotels in the park offer a warm bed to stay in. And don’t forget your wind jacket: Torres del Paine is known for having wild windy days.

1 | ACONCAGUA

Aconcagua - Mendoza

HIKING ESSENTIALS

Weather varies across the regions, so make sure you check it out before you go. You’ll need a wind jacket for Patagonia, rain jacket for Bariloche and Cordoba, professional mountaineering kit for Aconcagua and sunscreen for every destination! Always make sure you carry plenty of food and water. Depending on the trail, you may be able to find water along the way, but always treat it using a chemical treatment such as AquaMira, or a filter. Pick up a map at a local information center. Most of these places will have some kind of visitor information center with helpful maps available for free. Don’t forget your mate (traditional Argentine herb tea) supplies! Nothing is better than a warm mate to share with friends on top of a beautiful summit.

USEFUL LINGO!

The most dramatic hiking destination in Argentina is Aconcagua. At 6,962 meters (22,841 feet), it is the tallest peak not just in all of the Americas but the tallest peak in the world outside of the Himalayas. The mountain is located just 112 kilometers from Mendoza, making it easy to access. The peak is an internationally acclaimed mountaineering destination, attracting world-class climbers from around the world to attempt its blustery summit. Climbing season on Aconcagua lasts from December through March, although most climbers attempt the summit around January. Summiting requires excellent physical condition, and most climbers also utilize a guide service. For those who want to see the mountain from a bit more of a distance (and prefer to be able to breathe), Aconcagua Provincial Park offers beautiful day hikes, and multi-day treks, all with breathtaking views of the mountain. For multi-day treks, hikers can choose between the Horcones Valley and the Vacas Valley. The park service issues permits for short (three day) treks or long (seven day) treks, as long as the treks remain below 4,300m. Because of Aconcagua’s popularity, the park service is able to charge much higher prices for these permits. The price tag for a high-season summit attempt for a foreigner is $650 USD, while three and seven day permits are $80 USD and $160 USD, respectively. If you wish to see the mountain for free, there is a small loop you can do outside of the visitor’s center that takes you to a few smaller lakes and affords great views of the mountains. Although not the most economical hiking option, Aconcagua is a must-visit destination for serious hikers in Argentina.

¿Cuánto falta? / How much further? Sendero, picada, pista / Trail Saco de dormir / Sleeping bag La mochila / Backpack Carpa / Tent Cascada / Waterfall Lago / Lake Cumbre / Summit ¿Dónde puedo comprar una cerveza? Where can I buy a beer? Noelle Smith arrived in Argentina earlier this year and has already become a full-blown mate addict. As well as enjoying a pot of mate with friends she likes to explore the Andes mountains and indulge in some of the beautiful wine being produced here.

DESTINATION AWAY GUIDE / EL CALAFATE & TORRES DEL PAINE

EL CALAFATE ////////////////// When you arrive at this small boom town, you’d be forgiven for thinking that El Calafate is oversold in the guide books. The town is not quaint nor particularly charming, but the real attractions of El Calafate lie in the great outdoors, exploring wild estancia lands, the nearby national park and the infamous Perito Moreno glacier…

DISCOVERING EL CALAFATE There is something very comforting about El Calafate as a base - its wide gamut of accommodation, attractive dining options and bustling shopping street. In Summer El Calafate has a buzz and the town fills with tourists. Nearby attractions include the glacier museum (5km out of town), Glaciarium (Ruta 11, www.glaciarium. com) where you can learn about the history behind the big ice, and taste a whisky on the rocks, or fernet and cola, with glacier ice. The town is also sat on a picturesque lake with lively birdlife including pink flamingos at the Nimez Reserve. There are many nice hikes near El Calafate, but it is mainly a base to eat, drink, sleep and organize. All the local tourism operators run from here, it’s the transport hub for the region, and you can find the widest range of hotel and restaurant offerings.

WHERE TO EAT AND STAY Isabel, Cocina al Disco (Gob. Moyano, corner of 25 de Mayo) Serving up hearty portions of food ‘al disco’, or cooked in a large, old cart wheel, Isabel is one of the most popular restaurants in town for its warm atmosphere and good value. Pick between the many ingredients cooked in local beer or wine! Los Ponchos Apart Hotel (Los Alamos, Manantiales 3321, www. losponchosapart.com.ar) Attractively designed and with great views over the lake, these well appointed apartments are a great mid-budge choice. Breakfast is brought to the room and you’re a 15 minute stroll from the main town. Posada Los Alamos (Ing. Hector Mario Guiatti 1135, www. posadalosalamos.com). Posada Los Alamos offers a decent spa, pool and games lawn to keep all the family happy in this re-sort right in the centre. Spacious rooms and a massive breakfast will give you extra energy to ex-plore.

ESTANCIA LIFE Once you travel a few kilometers out of El Calafate, you’ll find an impressive solitude and wilderness that few people live in. Beautiful sweeping views of the mountain and hillsides create canvasses of watercolours ranging from pink and purple to blue, green and grey. The vastness is spellbinding, and it is only interrupted by historic estancias of cattle ranchers and cowboys. Visiting an estancia can give you an appreciation for the authentic gaucho (an Argentine cowboy) way of life: mainly outdoors, with many lonesome hours, and first priority is taking care of your land and animals. If you are a keen horse rider, or want

to sheer sheep, this is the sort of rural tourism experience for you. And best of all is sharing a heart-warming asado (BBQ) in the evenings.

WHERE TO STAY Nibepo Aike (www.nibepoaike.com. ar) In the park, this estancia has its fair share of solitude but you are always accompanied by a set of trusty steads and you can muck in with all the rural activities to get a taste of real gaucho life. EOLO (www.eolo.com.ar) If you don’t want to ‘rough it’ in a real estancia, EOLO is the poshest option in the region with Relais Chateaux status and a handsome lodge to rest between activities.

PERITO MORENO There is no experience quite as mesmerising as staring onto the crumbling wall of Perito Moreno glacier. As you face this white, frozen giant that snakes its way through dark, dense forests, it almost feels like a conversation with the glacier as it murmurs, grumbles and cracks in front of you, occa-sionally spitting out large chunks of ice that create a thunderous crash as they fall into the turquoise waters below.

Glacier Perito Moreno

It is easy to see why Perito Moreno is the unmissable highlight for anyone in Patagonia. It really is awe-inspiring. And if you can’t get enough of the glacier from just a visual appreciation

on the decks in front or in boats traversing the lakes, you can take an excursion climbing along the ice in cram-pons to dip into crevices and walk through ice tunnels. Finish your afternoon off with a whisky on the glacier rocks! 78kms from El Calafate, Perito Moreno can be visited on a full-day tour package or by rented car.

climbing glaciers

TORRES DEL PAINE //////

sheep history at the old ‘Frigorífico Puerto Bories’, a national monument now known as The Singular. This post-Victorian cold-storage plant still has original features you can visit along with the museum and its collection of machinery brought from England in the early 20th century. The old wool hanger still has wisps of wool hanging from the rafters and old photographs of the sheep plant in full swing when 600 sheep were processed a day, frozen and shipped to England. The Bories plant had its own railway line which brought workers (up to 400 in its prime) from Puer-to Natales daily to the port, the town was originally populated because of the company. The original building is just on the outside though, inside it is a luxurious and stylish hotel also boasting a top res-taurant serving local delicacies like llama with mote, and rich crab stew. Walking towards the city, you’ll find colourful seaside houses and sleepy plazas. There isn’t too much to do in Puerto Natales, although this is the spot to organise your tours, trips and expeditions into Torres del Paine.

Puerto Natales

Just 4 hours over the border in Chile lies another outstanding place of natural beauty: the Torres del Paine. You can drive over, or take a bus to the closest settlement to the park, the pretty port side town of Puerto Natales.

Torres del Paine

WHERE TO STAY The Singular (www.thesingular.com) Historical, tasteful and excellently executed - the Singular is a world class experience. Rooms look straight out onto the Última Esperanza sound, and the restaurant takes you back to a by-gone era of elegance.

VISITING PUERTO NATALES The small town of Puerto Natales is a historic sheep farm settlement and you can learn about its il-lustrious

KAU (www.kaulodge.com) An affordable and attractive option right on the waterline, KAU is a boutique hotel with well-appointed, modern rooms and an excellent

coffee shop downstairs making the best brew in town.

VISITING THE TORRES DEL PAINE PARK The highlight of any trip to this part of the world are the Torres del Paine. Translating as towers, this stunning rock formation is mountainous and towering. One of the most unique geographical spots in the world, Torres del Paine is a result of millions of years of an interplay between water, wind, fire and eruptions. In the middle of a large National Park with outstanding beauty spots, geological interest and abundant wildlife (including guanacos, condors, and even the most elusive puma), a trip to the park is a real delight. Although the high point is undoubtedly looking onto these majestic mountains with sheer rock faces and steeples of stone. The ‘cuernos’ (or horns) are in the center of the park with contrasting black, grey and brown offering a feast of colours as the sun rises, sets, and picks up dif-ferent tones from the rapidly changing cloud formations. To the right side are the infamous Torres (towers), infamous for being almost enigmatic in their appearance, easily disappearing into clouds with the changeable Patagonian weather. Hiking around the base of the Torres and Cuernos is a breathtaking experience (see our Hiking Guide, page 33) with hanging glaciers, iceberg-dotted lakes and dark forests as some of the many attractions en route. Visit the park by staying in a hotel or camp sites dotted around the park, or stay further afield and visit on a day tour or private trip (115kms from Puerto Natales). There is a wide range of activities on offer including kayaking around icebergs, walking over glaciers, boat excursions, and horse rid-ing.

WHERE TO STAY Explora (www.explora.com) With the best location in the park,

PREPARING FOR PATAGONIA You get to Argentina and quickly realize that there’s more to this country than just cafes, parillas, and tango. In fact, just a short plane ride or a 24-hour bus ride away from your hotel in Buenos Aires are some of the best places on earth for trekking, hiking, and adventuring. But what do you do if you didn’t think to pack your trekking poles, hiking boots, or a warm jacket? If you find yourself in this situation, have no fear, because BA is full of great shops that can prepare you for just about any adventure. BA is not the cheapest place to buy clothing for outdoor gear, but it’s definitely more affordable here than in the small touristy towns just outside the popular trekking destinations. Scope out BA’s great selection of outlet stores, which often offer 30-60% discount. Try Av. Córdoba (between 4000 and 5200 blocks) where stores include Nike and Adidas for basic, versatile clothing for a physically active trip; and Montagne, an outdoor gear and ski shop with more rugged equipment better suited for mountaineering trips.

HOW TO GET HERE Fly directly to El Calafate from Aeroparque on a 3 hour flight with Aerolineas Argentinas (www. aerolineas.com.ar), or catch a combination of buses passing through Rio Gallegos (www. andesmar.com).

Another place to get the most for your dollar is the Aguirre district in Villa Crespo. Open 7 days a week, and nestled just south of Palermo Soho, there are a number of solid outdoor gear brands like Columbia and North Face. Staff are accustomed to helping gringos prepare for trips west to Patagonia and south to Ushuaia and can help select the right jacket or fleece for layering when it gets cold in Bariloche, at the top of Fitz Roy, or while walking on the glacier at El Calafate. Buenos Aires is unique because similar types of shops tend to cluster in certain neighbourhoods. For example, the yarn district is located in Villa Crespo on Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz. While you puzzle over the fact that yarn has its own district, you can rest assured that camping gear does too. Probably due to the number of tourism/travel guide shops located downtown, the area between Av. Santa Fe and Av Corrientes, Calle Carlos Pellegrini and Calle Florida is filled with outdoor gear shops. The benefit of shopping at these stores is the convenience factor - housing a variety of local and international brands under one roof, you can easily compare products and buy all your gear in one go. Try Alpes Camping Ski (ACS), Camping Center SA, Depor Camping, EuroCamping,

Amanda Barnes is a British travel and wine writer based in South America. She spent two months of 2014 traversing glaciers and tucking into llama steak with a glass of Patagonian wine, and is eager to return pronto. www.amandabarnes.co.uk amanda_tweeter

Tierra (www.tierrahotels.com) Its sleek design nestles into the surroundings but inside Tierra opens up to maximise the stunning location on Sarmiento Lake overlooking the Torres. Great excursions, a top spa and the chance of spotting pumas from your bedroom window make Tierra a superb choice.

Rio Serrano (www.hotelrioserrano.cl) For a more affordable option, Rio Serrano has comfortable rooms looking from a distance onto the Paine and is on an old cattle ranch settlement. Accommodation is simple but the new chef is anything but, serving great fusion food.

Photos by Amanda Barnes

and Riback (just to name a few). But wait! What about that brand named after Argentina’s famous mountain region? That would be Patagonia - the environmentally friendly mountaineer clothing brand - and they are also located in the BA camping district. Check them out at Suipacha 1178 for high end, socially responsible outdoor clothing. No matter the intensity of your trek or outdoor experience in Patagonia, Buenos Aires has the products you need to be prepared for all types of adventures. Check out any of the stores listed above and get your next journey underway today. Lauren Miner is a writer and consultant from the US living in Argentina. She enjoys sushi, dance, yoga and travel, and you can read about her attempts at healthy living while in the land of empanadas at Active Expat www.activeexpat.com

right on top of a babbling waterfall, Explora Hotel looks straight onto the Cuernos and is idyllic to wake up and fall asleep to. An excellent spa, a fabulous estancia and adventure programs crossing from El Calafate make it a once-in-a-lifetime hotel.

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza, pasta and parilla! There is so much more to Buenos Aires’ food scene though and this is a quick glance guide to some of the gastronomy gems you can discover in the city. Don’t forget that Argentineans dine late at night with most restaurants not opening much before 8pm and often still serving till gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm. CAFÉ SAN JUAN Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater and a tattoo aficionado and his unique personal style is reflected in his simple but adventurous dishes. With the menu scrawled on chalkboards and changing on an almost daily basis, this has become a firm favourite of Portenos and tourists so much so that a spin off sister restaurant has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical Argentine dishes with a twist served in a relaxed setting in a retro-style diner. Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (between Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 43001112. Reservations recommended. Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$ FUKURO If you are craving some decent noodles and great sticky buns, Fukuro is the place. Grab a bar stool at this colourful graffiticovered night spot, and you’ll be served rich, savory and thick Ramen noodle soup, sweet and sour steamed pork buns, and the fresh and succulent gyozas. Accompany your meal with artisan beer or saki, and leave room for seconds. Fukuro Noodle Bar, Costa Rica 5514, Palermo Hollywood. (11) 3290 0912 TuesSat from 8pm. $$ BELLAGAMBA If you want a traditional Argentine ‘bodegon’ (tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the most centrally located ones still sending out milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time the same way it did since opening in 1900. Started by a couple Italian immigrants, the motive behind this bodegon is filling food and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere. Cheap, cheerful and authentic. Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833. Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$ LA FÁBRICA DEL TACO If you want a plate of steaming tacos quick and fast, the Fabrica del Taco is the place to head for a casual night of decent Mexican tacos and dirty margaritas. Bright

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lights and tempting wafts of steaming tacos will knock you over as you wander past this popular Palermo taco joint, and once you take your first bite you’ll see why it pulls in a crowd. Soft corn tacos are filled with juicy pulled pork or smoking chicken and cheese, and there’s three hot sauces to pick between: from Argentine mild to kick-you-in-the-mouth picante! This place fills up late on the weekends with a post-party crowd just desperate for that taco fix. It is easy to see why. La Fabrica del Taco, Gorriti 5062, Palermo Soho. (11) 4832 0815. www. fabricadeltaco.com Tues-Sun Midday – 2am (closed 6-7pm) $$ SARKIS Serving food as if it were in Armenia, and un-translated menus to match, this is a great spot for those on a budget who want to taste some proper Middle Eastern food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit rushed – this isn’t your spot for a fancy date but it will keep you happy with its keppe, big portions and unpretentious Armen-tinean flavours. Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufré and Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $ BUENOS AIRES VERDE Had enough meat? Need to get back to the green stuff? This is your place. A raw food, vegan and vegetarian hangout you can get your fix of all things green and good again. Their wheatgrass shots, raw cupcakes and seaweed cannolis have built up quite a fan base. Even the wine is organic, making this a sin free dining spot. Buenos Aires Verde, Gorriti 5657 (between Fitz Roy and Bonpland), Palermo (11) 4775 9594. Mon – Sat, 9am till late. $$ MUSEO DEL JAMON This really is a museum to the glory of jamón, with cured ham legs swinging from the rafters that have come from high quality producers in Argentina and specialized producers from the mecca of jamón - Spain. Imported foodie goods are tough to get your hands on in Argentina,

PRICE GUIDE

RESTAURANT GUIDE

but the Museo have brought in different delicious jamones as well as salami and chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish vino! It’s not just cured meats though - you can feast on seafood, shellfish, homemade pastas and paella, and one of their house specialties is suckling pig. The modern Puerto Madero location is perfect for a harbor side walk afterwards. Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch & dinner. $$$$ DON JULIO A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don Julio is often on people’s ‘not to miss’ list for visiting the city and with packed tables almost every night you can see why. This traditional restaurant serves perfectly cooked slabs of beef that will please any meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine trained servers will also be able to help you pick out a top choice Malbec to go with your steak. If you order one of the pricier bottles you’ll be asked to sign the bottle with your reflections on the meal to be displayed around the restaurant. Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$ EL BAQUEDANO While carne is king in Argentina, there are some other carnes that often get neglected while all eyes are on the revered cow. This restaurant celebrates all the other meats of Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas and even alligator. It is Mar del Plata chef Fernando Rivarola who is championing the underside of Argentina’s carnivorous food culture and he does it with great style in a seven course tasting menu or a la carte. Don’t miss the llama carpaccio. El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar), San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues – Sat. $$$$$

El gin artesanal argentino necesitaba una tonica artesanal que le haga compaĂąia.

conocelos a los dos en la casa de su creador tato giovannoni. floreria atlantico - arroyo 872 2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean

BAR & CAFÉ GUIDE The nickname of a ‘city that doesn’t sleep’ doesn’t come from Buenos Aires’ office culture… but rather its addictive nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub. Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout the city your night can start relatively early. There is an exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a selection of different types of bars to get you started. FLORERIA ATLANTICO

CAFÉ MARGOT

FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE

Entering through an afterhours florist-cumwine shop-cum-record store has to be one of the more unique entrances for a bar, and that’s the only way to get into this new bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by a top mixologist and a super sommelier, the drinks here are to die for of course, as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to the immigrant tribes of Argentina, you’ll find cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol, Spanish sherry, French cognac and English Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those who really know their booze. Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313 6093. Mon – Sat, 10am – 3am

A real treasure, Café Margot has a history stretching back to 1904 and a step into this bar/café feels like a step back into history with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed here each morning and their homebrew is served throughout the week, as is decent bar food. The waiters will rave about their turkey – which is served in countless sarnies here – and actually claim to have invented the turkey sandwich (just go along with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and step back into a different century. Café Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am till late.

If you are serious about your coffee and need a real bean fix, Full City Coffee House is one of the better coffee joints in town. Whether you like it strong and black, with just a lágrima (literally just a drop) of coffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you want a Cappuccino like you’d get back home, the well trained barristas know what they are doing. Packed with coffee fiends and freelancers, there is good wifi here and a stack of magazines and newspapers as well as a decent Colombian-style breakfast to while away an hour or two. They also run private coffee classes. Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535, Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues – Sun.

LATTENTE

SKY BAR

GIBRALTAR

Lattente has been training baristas in Buenos Aires for a couple years now and is one of the best sources of good beans and great coffee in the city. With a quick service of espresso, latte and drip-filtered coffee, you can get it how you like it and sit down for a moment of respite at their newspaper and magazine covered coffee tables. Adding another tempting treat to the mix, there is often a man just outside selling proper Italian cannoli. Life is dulce! LATTEnTE, Thames 1891, Palermo. (11) 4833 1676. Mon-Sun 9/10am – 8pm.

The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky Bar is on the 13th floor of Hotel Pulitzer in the city centre making it ideal for reaching some cooler Summer air and enjoying a view over the night city lights. A popular ‘after office’ spot and also ideal for downing a couple cocktails at sunset, although the DJ plays well into the night too. Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily after 5pm.

ANTARES

An Alladin’s cave of Venetian puppets, copper-splashed walls and pillow covered couches, Rey de Copas is a seductive spot to quaff a couple chic cocktails. There is a treasure trove bucket by the bar filled with ice and beer, but you’ll be missing a trick if you don’t dig into their eclectic cocktail list. Sweet, spicy and fragrant you’ll easily find a drink on the list to please your palate, and if you get the nibbles they serve neat tapas to sate your hunger. Inside is cosy and atmospheric, but the candlelit terrace is the place to be on warm summer evenings. Rey de Copas, Gorriti 5176, Palermo Soho. (11) 268 5220. Tues – Sat evenings.

With a name like Gibraltar, you’d assume this is aimed at expats and you’d be right, but this English-style pub is remarkably popular with locals too. The bar menu is comfortfood pub grub including fish and chips, bangers and mash, and homemade curries. Best of all, they serve food all day from 12 till 2am meaning you can soak up the extra pints at any hour while the cider, beer and wine keep flowing till 4am each night. If you want cocktails, look somewhere else, but if you want a proper pub in San Telmo – the Gibraltar is it. Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of Estados Unidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily, midday till late.

If you are in search of real ale, then Antares is one of the safest options with a nationwide chain of micro breweries. With a couple locations around the city, you can stop in for a honey beer or cream stout in San Telmo, Las Canitas or in their flagship in Palermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegs hang over the bar giving it a trendy New York feel to it. As well as different pints, and even a beer tasting option, Antares serve hearty bar food all evening. Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela 2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo. Daily from 7pm till late.

REY DE COPAS

SR DUNCAN A converted mansion with a penchant for swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is a handsome live music venue where you’ll get tango, jazz, swing and anything else that has continued to sound good over the last few decades. Even the prices hark back to a time before. La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832 (between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo, (11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues – Sat. Check out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings.

BEBOP

PUERTA UNO

LIVERPOOL

Live music is often a bit hard to find in Buenos Aires compared to other world capitals, but there’s a new San Telmo joint that keeps the beat moving five nights a week. BeBop is a stylish basement jazz bar with live jazz, blues, soul and pop bands every night of the week and twice on Fridays and Saturdays. An intimate, low light setting with personal lampshades is a throw back to the jazz bars of the 1920s. The bar list has classic cocktails and a short but sweet collection of wines and beers, although if you want to finish (or start!) your evening with something more substantial, pop upstairs to Aldo’s where you’ll find hundreds of wines and excellent food.

Once a secret bar, the secret is pretty much out now about Puerta Uno but it still has that underground vibe as you turn up to the unmarked door and should remember the owner’s names – Robertino and Marcelo – just in case. Once in, the bar opens up to a series of patios with evolving decoration and a DJ keeping the atmosphere buzzing. Cocktails are the order of the night and the barmen do some convincing sake and fruit potions.

Although the thought of Beatles paraphernalia might make you cringe, this Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some pretty decent live bands. With a proper stage equipped for musicians, most nights you get a band play and afterwards it turns into a nightclub.

Puerta Uno, Juramento 1667 (corner of Arribeños), Belgrano (Barrio Chino). (11) 4706 1522. Tues – Sat after 9pm.

ASIA DE CUBA

BeBop, Moreno 364, San Telmo. (11) 4331 3409.www.bebopclub.com.arTues-Sat 8.30pm-late. PAIN ET VIN If you want to sit down to a decent glass, or bottle, of wine with a hunk of proper bread – this is your kind of joint. Specializing in two of the greatest gifts in life – bread and wine – this sunny spot in Palermo is popular as a bar, lunch spot (try the hearty sandwiches) and a wine shop. There’s a good little spot outside in a patio if you want fresh air too. Pain et Vin, Gorriti 5132, Palermo. (11) 4832 5654. Tues – Sun 12 - 10pm (7pm on Sundays)

GRAN BAR DANZON One of the stalwarts of the bar scene, Danzon has been one of BA’s happy hour favourites since forever and everyone stays throughout the night for the good food, cool music and beautiful people. A bustling atmosphere and usually packed with people it is above ground level in the Recoleta neighbourhood. Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161 (between Santa Fe and Arenales), Recoleta, (11) 4811 1108, open daily from 7/8pm

Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11) 5355 7632. Mon – Sat nights.

This nightclub still remains one of the places to ‘be seen in’ and a bustling boliche in Puerto Madero. After over a decade on the nightclub scene it is no longer the hot ticket it used to be, but Asia de Cuba still appeals to a large after office crowd and a healthy mix of tourists who love the waterfront location, decent drinks and the opportunity to dress to the nines. There is also a sushi restaurant if you want to graze on something before hitting the dancefloor. During the weekdays it is also open as a lunchtime restaurant, with a Happy Hour 4pm till 8pm. Asia de Cuba, Pierina Dealessi 750 (corner of Macacha Guemes), Puerto Madero. (11) 4894 1328. Nightclub open Wed – Sat from 9pm.

CELEBRATING 200 YEARS OF EL FEDERAL In early November San Telmo’s streets came to life in a bustling music and culture festival to celebrate 200 years of one of Buenos Aires’ most historical bars, El Federal. With a festival of live music and literary readings, Sunday 9th November marked not only this epic anniversary celebration but the end to a ‘gastronomy’ week in the Historical Quarter of the city. Keep your eyes on the website www. losnotables.com.ar for future events. Photos by Daniela Pafundi - www.flickr.com/photos/danielapafundi/

PLAYGROUND T IPS If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground that is Buenos Aires Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses aren’t cash friendly, you’ll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at www.sube.gob.ar), which you can charge at most metro stations. You’ll find a helpful bus route planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus you’ll quickly find yourself critiquing and praising the bus drivers’ personalized décor and memorabilia at the front of the bus. The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day. Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days. Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate the personality of porteños and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you otherwise might not. Do however take care and don’t walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion, Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing flashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public. There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your airport right to avoid missing a flight! Also take care with connections as many carriers will make you change airports for ongoing flights so give yourself time to go from one to another. Aeroparque (mainly domestic flights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo. Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www. minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Perú,Av. Belgrano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there. If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting www.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels! The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simpleminded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves. Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you find yourself in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.

TELL ME ABOUT YOUR ANCESTORS. On my father's side I have Basque origins and Italian on my mother's side. I think the combination of different origins that comprise our identity makes for an interesting mix: Mixing our ethnic American roots w ith the arrival of the Spanish colonizers and then European immigrants. F or this reason BA has a South American touch w ith its entrenched traditions but at the same time w ith a European style - modern and cosmopolitan. WHAT ARE YOU DOING TODAY? I make and decorate toys and children's furniture out of w ood. We are bringing back the toys from the past, which were w ooden, durable and lasted a lifetime.

Helen Appleby is a yoga teacher, massage therapist, writer and mother of two young boys. You can follow her blog at www.onawingandaprayerblog. wordpress.com

Interview by HELEN APPLEBY

WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT BA? I love my city, its architecture, parks, neighbourhoods and urban tribes. I never tire of walking through Buenos A ires, there is always something new to discover: a secret passage, an old confiteria, a great w ork of art, street artists... Buenos A ires is like a w oman, beautiful, exotic and modern, full of personality. They say she never sleeps and it is true: at all hours and whatever day there are always lights on and a corner of the city awake somewhere. There are a plethora of cultural activities to choose from; cinemas, theatres, bars and restaurants. It is impossible to get bored here. DEFINE PORTENO.

There is a Porteno style, easy to recognise in every part of the w orld. They say that we have a unique way of speaking, almost like singing; we're funny and kind. The Porteno is a mix of farmer and chatterbox. Friendly, good w ith w ords, funny and effusive. WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO RELAX? Sometimes we are criticised for being proud, thinking that we know What I enjoy the most when I want to relax is being close everything and invented everything. Our soul is united by football, national rock, milonga, bodegas, mates and asados! to nature. Only a few kilometres out of the city you are greeted by another landscape: green horizons, colourful fields ANY RECOMMENDATION FOR FOREIGNERS? and animals. Buenos A ires province is full of rural folk w ith stories, shops and inhabitants who magically fulfil their gaucho I think foreigners w ill find it a culturally rich city w ith attractive tradition. and good humoured inhabitants. W ith a broad circle of entertainment, from theatres and restaurants to Porteno neighbourhoods to exploYOU HAVE DECIDED TO MOVE TO THE COUNTRY NEXT YEAR. MANY PORTENOS SEEM TO HAVE A STRONG CONNECTION re. The streets of Buenos A ires talk of traditions, dances, customs and passions. TO 'EL CAMPO' ...DISAPPEARING EVERY WEEKEND OR ON HOLIDAYS TO ESCAPE THE CITY. TELL ME ABOUT THAT. THERE SEEMS TO BE A STRONG SENSE OF COMMUNITY HERE. WHY DO YOU THINK THAT IS? Next year I am moving to Gualeguay in Entre Rios. My boyfriend is an agricultural engineer and we have decided to Yes I think there is a great feeling of community and a strong base our life far from the city. A s much as I adore my city, now I am thinking about my future and children, I w ould like respect for our identity. We embrace who we are w ith all the to give them green spaces where they can run freely; where good and the bad! Argentine blood flow s strongly through our veins and we raise our flag w ith much pride! How we say in a national they can grow in touch w ith nature and animals. rock song 'La Argentinidad al palo!'

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GREEN SPACES

WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES ALMAGRO Las Violettas Rivadavia 3899 BALVANERA Sabor a Tango Perón 2535 BELGRANO Sucre bar Sucre 676 BOEDO Café Margot Boedo 857 CENTRO Alvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036 Amerian BA Park Hotel Reconquista 699 Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015 Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701 Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608 Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514 Design CE Hotel de Diseño Marcelo T de Alvear 1695 Design Suites Buenos Aires M. T de Alvear 1683 Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079 Down Town Matias Reconquista 701 Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872 Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161 Gran Cru Rodriguez Peña 1886 Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861 Hotel Boutique Bonito BA Chile 1507 Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275 La Fresque Hotel Boutique Avda de Mayo 984 Le Choix des Vins Posadas 1166 Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277 Mayflower Suites Paraná 720 Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219 Play Juncal 1472 Plaza San Martín Suites Suipacha 1092 Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int. Libertad 1216 Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675 Rooney´s Hotel Boutique Sarmiento 1775 Serena Hotel Libertad 1617 SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188 Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780 MICROCENTRO Bridge Language School Tucuman 633 BsAs4U Travel agency Lavalle 900 MONSERRAT Aldo´s Moreno 372 Bebop Club Moreno 364 Café Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825 Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647 Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785 PALERMO 1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B Malabia 1555 248 Finisterra Báez 248 5411 Soho Hotel Spa Thames 1565 Adorado Nicaragua 5856 Alaire Terrace Bar Gurranchaga 1509 Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317 Antares Las Cañitas Arevalo 2876/8 Argentine Experience Fitz Roy 2110 Atempo Design Hotel Arévalo 1564 Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370 Ayres de Español Gurruchaga 1851 Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205 Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115 Bangalore Humboldt 1416 Bar Botola Gurruchaga 1795 Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946 Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726 Bellini Boutique Hotel Cabello 3780 Bicicleta Naranja Nicaragua 4825 Birkin Republica Arabe Siria 3061 Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735 Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882 Bocca il Lupo Bonpland 1965 Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389 Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581 Bolivia Nicaragua 4908 Bortola Classic Gurruchaga 1806 Burger Joint Borges 1766 Cabrera Garden Boutique Guest House Cabrera 5855 Chipper Humbolt 1893 Coco Cabello 3794 Cocu Malabia 1510 Crack Up’ Libros / Bar Costa Rica 4767 Croque Madame Cafe (Museo de Arte Decorativo) Av Callao 1569 Decata Honduras 6100 Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670 Dogo Hostel José Antonio Cabrera 4716 Eco Pampa Hostel Guatemala 4778 El Frances cafe Gorriti 5099 El Tejano Honduras 4416 El Ultimo Beso Nicaragua 4880 Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862

Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598 Full City Coffee House Thames 1535 Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802 Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459 Grand Café Basavilbaso 1340 Green Bamboo (Vietnamita) Costa Rica 5802 Guaresnei Nicaragua 5802 Guido Blvd. Cerviño 3943 Guido’s Bar Republica de la India 2843 Helena Cafe Nicaragua 4816 Home Buenos Aires Hotel Honduras 5860 Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752 Hotel Boutique Purobaires Niceto Vega 4788 Ilum Hotel El Salvador 5726 Jam Suites Malabia 1442 Jardín Escondido Gorriti 4746 Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665 Museo Evita Restaurante J.M. Gutierrez 3926 L´Hotel Palermo Thames 1562 La Alacena Gascon 1401 La Boussole Gascon 1346 La Pescaderita Humbolt 1905 Lattente Thames 1891 Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641 Legado Mítico Buenos Aires Gurruchaga 1848 Libro del Pasaje Thames 1762 Lo de Joaquin Alberdi J. Luis Borges 1772 M Palermo El Salvador 5783 Magdalena’s Party Bar Thames 1795 Magendie Honduras 5900 Malambo Thames 2098 Malvon II Lafinur 3275 Maria Félix Guatemala 5200 Mark’s Deli & Coffee House El Salvador 4701 Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770 Miravida Soho Wine Bar Darragueyra 2050 More More Pastry Shop El Salvador 5721 Moving Bike Muu Lecheria Armenia 1810 Noa Noa Lofts Bonpland 1549 Nuss Buenos Aires Soho El Salvador 4916 Olaya Humboldt 1550 Olivas Soler 5700 Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y Cerviño Oui Oui Nicaragua 6068 Oums cafe & Deli Armenia 1595 Own Palermo Hollywood Jose Cabrera 5556 Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132 Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648 Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865 Palermo Soho Hostel Nicaragua 4728 Palermo Suites Apart Fray Justo S. Maria 2529 Palermo Tower Charcas 5955 Pani Palermo Hollywood Nicaragua 6044 Pepe Cantero (Main Store) Honduras 4845 Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721 Picnic Cervino 3596 Pollock Hotel Boutique Costa Rica 4754 Post Street Bar Thames 1885 Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374 Q´Arte Galleria Humbolt 1981 Real Revolution Honduras 5143 Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484 Rio Cafe Honduras 4772 Road2Argentina Pasaje Santa Rosa 5038 Shanghai Dragon Aráoz 1199 Soho Point Malabia 1577 Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676 Squizi Pizza a la Piedra Cabello 3601 Tea Connection Cervino 3550 The Factory El Salvador 4995 The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733 The Haig Humbolt 2060 The Pick Market Demaria 4527 Tienda de Cafe Baez 400 Tiendas Naturales Rep. arabe siria 3001 Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655 Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773 Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929 Urban Station El Salvador 4588 Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499 Vain Boutique Hotel Thames 2226

Van Koning bar Baez 325 Vitrum Hotel Gorriti 5641 Voltaire Angel Carranza1946 Voulez Bar Cerviño 3802 Watt Market El Salvador 4622 PUERTO MADERO Asia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750 Ayres de Patagonia Alicia Moreau de justo 1798 Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y Gorritti Blakke Juana Manso 1580 Cabaña Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516 Cuccina D´Onore Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768 Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768 DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611 El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel) Martha Salotti 445 El Único Bar Juana Manso 1601 Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840 Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445 Freddo Juana Manso 1570 ICentral Market P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes Itamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553 La Cabaña Alicia M. De Justo 380 La Parolacia Casa Tua Alicia M. de Justo 276 La Parolacia del Mare Alicia M. de Justo 1170 Lupita Mexican Bar Olga Cossettini 1091 Museo del Jamón Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 Osaka (Faena Arts Center) Juana Manso 1164 Patio JaponésJuana Manso y E. Escurra Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100 Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838 Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714 Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra Sushi Club Petrona Eyle 471 Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286 Tres Quarts by Rodizio Pierina Dealessi 1130 Winery Juana Manso y M. Guemes RECOLETA Alvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891 Anima Peña 2665 Art Suites Azcuénaga 1465 Art Suites & Gallery Peña 2268 Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283 Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756 Casa Bar Rodríguez Pena 1150 Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823 Centro Cultural Junín 1930 Galería Rubbers Internacional Avda Alvear 1595 Howard Jonhnson HB Peña 2049 Ih International House Pacheco de Melo 2555 LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel Vicente Lopez 1955 Mio Buenos Aires Hotel Avda. Quintana 465 Pani Vicente López 2056 Poetry Building Junin 1280 Recoleta Cemetery Azcuénaga Ulises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016 Unique Art Ellegance Avda. Pueyrredón 1940 Urban Suites Junin 1727 RETIRO Basa Basavilbaso 1328 Farinelli Arroyo 900 Feir´s Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366 Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855 Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841 SAN CRISTOBAL Bar de Cao Av. Independencia 2400 SAN TELMO America del Sur BA Hostel Chacabuco 718 Antares Bolívar 491 Arribo Buenos Aires Perú 291 Bar Defensa Defensa y Cochabamba Bar del Filete Defensa 217 Bar Espresso Av. Belgrano 402. Esq. Defensa Bar Seddon Defensa 695 BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649 Bicicleta Naranja Pasaje Giuffra 308 Bohemia BA Hotel B.Perú 845 Brasserie Petanque Defensa 596 Buenos Aires Vintage Café La Poesía Chile 502

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Cafe Rivas Estados Unidos 302 Circus Hostel & Hotel Chacabuco 1020 Coffee Town Bolivar 976 Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303 El Banco Rojo Bolivar 914 El Buzon Peru 608 El Federal Carlos Calvo 595 El Querandi Peru 302 Expanish Gral Juan Domingo 698 Gibraltar Perú 895 Graffitimundo Carlos Calvo 736 Hostel Inn BA Humberto Primo 820 Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747 Hotel Babel Balcarce 946 Hotel Bolívar Bolívar 886 Hotel Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 748 Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478 Kenton Palace Buenos Aires Defensa 383 La Casita de San Telmo Cochabamba 286 La Morada H. Yrigoyen 778 La Panadería de Pablo Defensa 269 La Poesía Chile 502 La Puerta Rico Alsina 416 Lumio Café Carlos Calvo 498 MACBA (Museo) Avda. San Juan 328 MAMBA (Museo) Avda San Juan 350 Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922 Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948 Moreno Hotel Moreno 376 Nueva Liberia Estados Unidos 301 Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680 Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752 Perez H Defensa 435 Piedras Suites Piedras 908 Posada de la Luna B&B Perú 565 Puerto Limon Chacabuco 1080 Pulperia Defensa 752 Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Colón 1145 Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319 San Telmo Flats Piedras 990 San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437 Senor San Telmo Defensa 756, esquina Pasaje San Lorenzo Telmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086 TelmoTango Hostel Suites Chacabuco 679 Tiana BA Humberto Primo 629 Urban Station San Telmo Avda. San Juan y Chacabuco Walrus Books Etados Unidos 617 Yauss! Estados Unidos 509 Zorzal Mane Petit Hotel Humberto Primo 775 VILLA CRESPO Malvon Serrano 789 Querido B&B Juan Ramírez de Velazco, 934