PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES - ED.3 - AGOSTO/SEPTIEMBRE - 2014 by Pablo Ortiz Avila

AUG-SEP 2014 | FREE magazine | NÂ° 3

BUENOS AIRES GUIDE RESTAURANTS & BARS WHERE TO SKI

Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires! Thank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! We are now in our third edition of this new, free city guide and magazine. Please use us how you like: for tips, for the nifty map at the back, for bath tub reading with a glass of vino, or just for passing a bored hour or two on the bus. This edition we’ve rounded up some of the coolest free events and happenings in the city so even if you don’t have two pesos notes to rub together you can still enjoy this beautiful city. Continuing on the free vibe we’ve also rounded up the best markets in BA so if you are a little piggy you’ll know exactly where to head. And if piggy is strictly off the menu for you, then you’ll certainly want to take a peek at our green guide to Buenos Aires, highlighting the best vegan, vegetarian and organic spots in the city. Although you should probably leave some room for the 5 o’clock tea recommendations too… If you are more of a fan of the liquid diet then there’s a guide to beer which is essential reading for any brew fans; and our resident somm also gives us the scoop on some unusual Malbecs for those otherwise inclined. While Argentina is still celebrating taking second place in the World Cup (vamos Argentina!) we’ve moved on from football to rugby as the Championships arrive here later this month. And if you are looking for a different sporting practice then one of our writer’s shows us a new angle on pole dancing… For our destination guide this edition, we’ve taken off for the slopes and bring you some of the best ski resorts around the country. If you are staying in the city though, we hope you’ll find plenty of nuggets of information to help you enjoy your time here. When you are done with your Playground Buenos Aires guide, please pass us on to the next user. We want to get around as much as possible, so if you do like the magazine, pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone that looks like they read a bit of English - the more hands on us the better! We are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want to pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and we’ll get some copies to you. We are also keen to hear from eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are interested in collaborating in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback or some of your own favourite playground game ideas, we’d love to hear from you! Un beso!

Playground Buenos Aires Editor | Amanda Barnes editor@playgroundba.com Design | Pablo Ortiz design@playgroundba.com Distribution & Sales | admin@playgroundba..com Playground Argentina S.A., Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2 Buenos Aires, Argentina www.playgroundba.com

BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR

PLAYGROUND

COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH AND ARGENTINE JAMÓN IN BUENOS AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMÓN! Visit Museo del Jamón in Puerto Madero for an excellent range of seafood, meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads and tapas. Try our unique specialties including Suckling Pig, Salami and Ham imported from Spain and the best providers in Argentina, and Seafood Fideuá. We hope to see you soon! Open every day from 12 till 12 Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As. (011) 4300-5418 info@museodeljamonpuerto.com

CONTENTS Free Pass

A guide to free activities in BA

The BA Beer Guide Where to get a good pint

Scribbles from a Somm Malbec, but not as you know it

15 16

The Malbec Story

How Argentine Malbec took the world by storm

Artist in Profile Daniel Genovesi

Time for Tea, Anyone?

Indulging in 5 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock tea Buenos Aires style

This Little Piggy Went to Market The best food markets

Winter in the City Poetry and art

The Rugby Championship

Argentina competes in a southern hemisphere line-up

Destination Guide Ski

Ski and snow spots in Argentina

32 Going Green in BA 34 Vegan, vegetarian and earth friendly alternatives Focus On 38 Puerto Madero Restaurant Guide 40 Top spots to eat in the city Bar & CafĂŠ Guide 44 Where to drink and be merry Playground Tips 46 Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires Map 48 Where to Find Us 50 A Spin on Fitness

A glimpse into the pole dancing fitness scene

Where to get free copies

THE BEST

THINGS IN LIFE

ARE FREE There are plenty of ways to enjoy Buenos Aires without parting with your pesos. Rosie Hilder takes you through all things gratuito. Rosie Hilder is a British journalist who has lived in Argentina for over four years. She writes about entertainment, travel and culture.

THEATRE, DANCE AND MUSIC The opulent Teatro Colón (Cerrito 628, 4378 7100, www.teatrocolon. org.ar) has free classical music concerts two or three times a month. Take your pick on the 'intérpretes argentinos' tab of the theatre's website and collect your tickets the Friday before the concert (four per person). Not surprisingly, free tickets to Buenos Aires's most spectacular theatre are much coveted, so make sure you arrive before the ticket office opens at 10am to nab a place in the queue. Inside Colón Theatre

The City of Buenos Aires government puts on fourteen major festivals http://festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar throughout the year. In the winter months, the Tango BA Festival y Mundial sees dancers from around the world compete to be crowned champions, September brings the new animated film festival BAFICI Animado and the Danza Contem-

poránea festival has modern dance shows across the city. For a general calender of cultural events head to the Agenda Cultural website. http:// agendacultural.buenosaires.gob.ar.

mansión has a packed programme of fun, arty activities including tango and swing nights, piano recitals, local bands and theatrical productions. The events are mostly a la gorra, which literally means 'to the hat', or bring some change for tips. Centro Cultural Recoleta

A power plant turned arts centre, the impressive Usina del Arte (Don Pedro de Mendoza 501, www.usinadelarte.org, Guided tours: Sat & Sun, 11am - 5pm, Spanish language only) stands tall amongst the grit of La Boca. Catch a dance or music performance in the concert hall, an art exhibition in one of the smaller spaces or take a guided tour of the Usina's entire 15,000 square metres. Housed in an ex-monastery in Recoleta, the Centro Cultural Recoleta (Junin 1930, 4803 1040, www.centroculturalrecoleta.org, Tues-Fri 1-8pm, Sat & Sun, 11 - 8pm) has a packed programme of exhibitions, concerts, workshops and talks. A more intimate space is Almagro bar and cultural centre Senior Duncan (see our bar guide). This renovated

Theatre-lovers should check out the website www.alternativateatral.com, which has a section with free or discounted tickets to various alternative theatre productions while live music fans should visit the Programación Bares Notables Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ programacion.notables) for music in the city's traditional bars and cafés. If it's an alfresco tango fix you're after, go to San Telmo's Sunday market, in particular Plaza Dorrego, or La Glorieta, (11 de Septiembre y Echeverría, 4674 1026, Saturdays and Sundays, from 8pm) a tango class and milonga held on a bandstand in Belgrano.

San Telmo´s Sunday Market

MUSEUMS AND TOURS Most of the city's main museums charge a small fee (between $1 and $50) and have discounts on Wednesdays. True freebies include the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, (Libertador 1437, 5288 9900, www.mnba.gob.ar Tues-Fri 11.30am 7.30pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am - 8.30pm, guided tours in English available on Tues, Thurs and Fri 12.30pm, Sat 2pm) which holds a large permanent collection of European and South American art as well as temporary exhibitions. Designed to appeal to young people, the museum's evening event Bellos Jueves (last Thursday of the month, 7pm - 10pm) is fresh, exciting and interactive. Live music is played throughout the gallery, young artists are invited to present their work and there are poetry readings, talks and guided tours. The night ends with atmospheric drinks and dancing on the grand museum's terrace. A stone's throw away, the Palais de Glace (Posadas 1725, 4804 1163, www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar, Tues - Fri 12 noon - 8pm, Sat & Sun 10am 8pm) houses rotating art and photography exhibitions and is worth a visit if only to ogle the building; the stunning circular edifice was an ice rink and social club during the Belle Epoque. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

minutes, available in Spanish, Portuguese and English) or head round the corner to the Museo del Bicentenario (Paseo Colón 100, 4344 3802, www.museobicentenario. gob.ar, Weds - Sun, 10am - 6pm, Spanish language only). The latter has videos and realia showing the different stages of Argentine history, an excavated mural by Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros and a café to rest in if the bombardment of facts in Spanish becomes too much. Casa Rosada

Museo del Bicentenario

Espacio Memoria y D.D.H.H.

Once a month, art lovers rejoice at the chance to roam the city's galleries after sunset at Gallery Nights (4775 8802, www.gallerynights.com.ar). Even though many participating galleries are free all year round, there's a thrill to be had in exploring them all in one evening, map in hand. If you'd rather contemplate the skies, go to the Planetarium (Sarmiento y Belisario Roldán, 4772 9265, www.planetario. gob.ar). Entrance to one of their shows costs around $30 but stargazing via monster telescope doesn't cost a peso (weekends between 7 - 8.30pm). Planetarium

In the centre, take a tour of the government house Casa Rosada (Balcarce 50, Sat & Sun & public holidays, 10am - 6pm, every 10

Ideal for getting your bearings, both Buenos Aires Free Walks (www. buenosairesfreewalks.com, 'Walking through Recoleta Tour' 10.30am, meet on Plaza Estado de Vaticano, 'City Centre Tour', 3pm, meet outside the front door of Congress, everyday) and BA Free Tour (www.bafreetour. com, 11am, meet on Rivadavia y Rodriguez Peña, Mon - Sat) operate on a tips basis. To delve deeper into Argentine history, visit the El Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos (Libertador 8151, 4702 9920, www. espaciomemoria.ar). During the 1976 - 1983 military dictatorship the centre was used to hold, torture and kill around 5000 people. Today, the centre pays homage to the victims of the dictatorship and promotes human rights and democracy through debates, educational programmes and cultural events. Guided tours are available in English and Spanish and though not exactly pleasant, they are chillinglingly enlightening. To book, write in advance to visitasguiadas@ espaciomemoria.ar

GOING GREEN One of the best ways to enjoy the city is to grab a mate and sit in a park or plaza watching the world go by. Particularly good spots include Parque Centenario in Caballito, an extensive circular park surrounding a lake that boasts a market, ampitheatre, natural history museum and observatory, and the 400 hectares of Palermo's Parque Tres de Febrero. Also known as the Bosques de Palermo, the Parque Tres de Febrero has a large lake plus The Planetarium, Japanese Garden and pretty rose garden El Rosedal. At weekends, it's a hubbub of activity. Whole families come for picnics,

FREEBIE AGENDA AUGUST 13th - 26th Tango BA Festival y Mundial. Various locations.

roller bladers, skateboarders and runners whiz round the paved area and street artists entertain on the grass. Other park highlights include Plaza Francia in Recoleta, the Botanical Gardens in Palermo,

for up to an hour at a time; when you're done just drop off the bike at the nearest station. To sign up, bring your passport plus a photocopy to any Ecobici station. Greek Monument - Parque Lezama

Bridge - Parque 3 de Febrero

17th - Alumnos de Instrumentos de Viento y Percusión. Teatro Colón. 28th - Bellos Jueves. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. 31st - Iván Rutkauskas & Marcelo Ayub, dúo de pianos. Teatro Colón.

Reserva Ecológica Botanical Gardens

SEPTEMBER All month. BAFICI Animado. Various locations. 7th - Jaime Torres y su conjunto. Teatro Colón. 11th - Gallery Nights. Various locations in Retiro and Recoleta 17th - 22nd. Festival de piano Les Amateurs. Usina del Arte. 211st - Sept. Artis - Orquestra de cámara. Teatro Colón. 25th - Bellos Jueves. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. OCTOBER 5th - Freddy Varela Montero, Carlos Céspedes & Leonardo Marconi. Teatro Colón. 8th - 13th. Festival Buenos Aires Danza Contemporánea. Various locations. 9th - Gallery Nights. Various locations in Palermo 12th - la Barroca del Suqía. Teatro Colón.

the hilly Parque Leezema in San Telmo and the antique bookstalls in Parque Rivadavia. However close you may feel to nature, don't let your guard down - keep a close eye on all your belongings at all times. The Reserva Ecológica (Tristán Achával Rodriguez 1550, Tues - Sun, 8pm - 6pm) in Puerto Madero is another great place for peoplewatching. This quiet refuge provides escapism from city life, though to do so successfully make sure you face the murky-looking Rio de La Plata and not the looming skyscrapers on the other side. Nature lovers can spot small rodents and birds, and the reserve is also popular with picnicking families, lip-locked couples, runners and cyclists. Stepping out of the nature reserve, take a stroll along the Costanera Sur. Grab some meaty goodness from a food truck (unfortunately, you'll have to pay) and check out the knock-off merchandise and ad-hoc cumbia dancing on the boulevard. To travel Buenos Aires on two wheels, join the city's biking scheme Ecobici (www.ecobici.buenosaires. gob.ar, Mon - Fri 8am - 8pm, Sat 9am - 3pm). The yellow bikes can be used

SOCIALISING Finding it hard to make friends in the city? Chat with fellow English speakers at weekly meet up The English Group Buenos Aires (Cabildo 2921, www.theenglishgroup. com.ar, Fridays 7pm - 10pm). This mixed bunch of locals and foreigners delight in the English language and are extremely friendly and welcoming. After the meet up, there's an optional dinner where any language is allowed, so hang on in there if you want to practise your Spanish. If you'd like swap your language for Spanish, go to the Conversation Exchange www.conversationexchange. com website, make yourself a profile and watch the offers roll in. Meet friends old and new at Post St Bar (Thames 1885, www. poststreetbar.com) where you can gorge on free pizza on Thursday evenings. As if that wasn't enough, the bar is covered in stencils drawn by BA's hottest street artists and upstairs a gallery displays their work more formally. Thursdays (8.15pm 11pm).

Tom Proctor has been wandering the globe for a few years now attempting to avoid the weather of his home town of Manchester, England. He’s a keen writer looking for new horizons and projects: tom-proctor@hotmail.co.uk.

There are two kinds of people, people that enjoy beer and people that drink Quilmes. Not to say qauffers of Argentina’s favourite malt beverage don’t enjoy the rich palate of fine artisan beer over the watery taste of fizzy nothingness, but that is exactly what I am saying. For many Argentineans beer starts at Quilmes, and ends, well, at Quilmes (maybe Quilmes dark for the more advanced drinkers), and you couldn’t be blamed for thinking that this flavourless tipple was all there was in Buenos Aires, considering the limited range of beer usually offered at most corner stores and restaurants. Due to the popularity and abundance of quality wine in South America, beer is often overlooked by visitors and ex-pats alike, but fortunately for those in the ‘enjoy beer’ category Argentina is positively brimming with tasty microbrews, many of which can be found dotted around the city centre if you know where to look. So if you’re hankering for a quality IPA or hearty stout this article will guide you to the best places to get a cheeky pint, what styles to expect and where to get the best power to your peso - it’s the BA Beer Guide.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BEER IN ARGENTINA

BREWERIES

No nation on the planet has done more to bring lager and beer to the forefront of the boozy worldcommunity than…the Germans. Famous for their beer halls, lederhosen and efficiency, and as Argentina’s fourth biggest ethnic community, it is no surprise that they brought barrels of the yellow stuff with them on their trip over to South America back in 1871. Argentina in the late 1800’s encouraged mass immigration from Europe resulting in a large mix of Spanish, Italians and Germans arriving at their shores. This porteño ancestry can still be seen in Argentinean culture today (hello Fernet). The company that makes Quilmes, Argentina’s favourite bubbly water, was founded in 1888 by Otto Bemberg, a German immigrant, and was run by the Bembergs up until 2006, when his great-great grandson, Carlos Miguens Bemberg, resigned as company director. In this European melting pot there emerged a nation with a fond love for beer. Over the years Argentineans have refined their tastes and have taken to making it themselves with a few great breweries emerging around the country.

Want the best beer? Go straight to the source. BA is noticeably limited on space, which is why you will find that pubs offering the best beer are actually making the stuff in the back of the bar. There are a number of great micro breweries Argentina, many of which can be found on your front doorstep (or temporary front doorstep), here in BA. BREOGHAN, SAN TELMO Open for 5 years now, Breoghan Brew Bar is going from strength to strength and continues to crank out some top quality tipples. The company was founded by two beer loving brothers who have since moved their brewery out of their basement and into a cosy Irish themed pub on Bolivar 862, San Telmo. With the taps in the front and the brewery in the back, you can ensure that your beer is as fresh as it comes. They also have a fab range of beers: IPA, Irish Red, Brown Ale, Stout and even a specialty ‘strong’ brew. One word of warning-this is not a great venue for a day time pick-me-up as they seldom open before 6pm. Happy hour is from 10 ‘til 12 when you can get 2 pints for AR$60, take that Weatherspoons!

BULLER. RECOLETA They are a confident bunch at Buller, so much so that they have their beer brewing equipment front and centre as you walk through the door. The staff trade bar tending responsibilities and beer brewing tasks interchangeably, and nerves of steel are required as they have an audience of regulars watching the entire process. Buller is a little bit more expensive (due to their costly American brewing equipment and swanky location) but they offer great food and samples of all their beers. They are located at Pte. Roberto M. Ortiz 1827 opposite the Recoleta cultural centre. ANTARES, PALERMO Antares is one of the more famous craft breweries of Buenos Aires. If you’ve had a good draught beer in BA chances are that these fellas made it. They have a few locations now but their main bar is located on Armenia 1447, Palermo. The bar has impressive (if fake) 10 foot tall kegs hanging over the bar, and the bar has an overall New York-ish feel to it. They have 7 main beers as well as seasonal offerings, all of which are similar to European and American brews. Antares is fantastic as they have exported relatively cheap, high standard beer all over Argentina, blazing the trail for more mainstream brews to follow and perhaps raise the standard nationwide. Other BA locations: Arevela 2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo. BARBA ROJA, ESCOBAR If rehab isn’t working and you’re looking for a boozy break from the city, this beer-themed amusement park in Escobar, 50km south of BA, may be the place for you. Barba Roja has set up Argentina’s first adult getaway, just be sure to bring a designated driver or take the bus. The beer itself is hard to find in the city and is usually sold by speciality beer and wine shops many of which are scattered down Santa Fe and in Palermo. To appreciate this beer at its finest, your best bet is to take a tour of the brewery and have fun at their real-life ‘Duff-land’, which let’s be honest wouldn’t be the worst place to spend an afternoon. www.barbaroja.com.ar

TYPES OF BEER Argentine artisanal brews tend to fall into one of 7 categories; these may be slightly different from what you find at home, so here is your micro guide to the most common beer types in Argentina. LAGER No difference here, lager is one of the most common brews in the world. It’s easy to make and offensive to no one. Your generic ‘beer’ of choice, has been adopted the world over by bland and boring corporate fizz makers. Lager done right is a rare thing, crisp, light and flavourful, done wrong and you get a brew that will get you drunk but will be as inspiring as Dido.

IPA (INDIAN PALE ALE) Calm down limeys, this isn’t the IPA we know and love from back home. For a start its cold, and it’s fizzy! Despite these glaring faults, IPA is usually the sign of a quality beer in Argentina. The hue can be a hodgepodge mix of anything from pale yellow to deep red but usually it is a light amber with a fruity taste and a very moreish quality. Breoghan’s in San Telmo make a particularly nice one, and The Gibraltar, a block away on Peru 895 sells a warm, flat British style IPA for those getting withdrawals. SCOTCH This style was foreign to me before moving to Argentina, but as the name suggests it comes from the shivering shores of Shcotland (Side note: don’t get it confused with the whiskey or your evening will end in the back of ambulance rather than a taxi.) This ale is deep brown, quite strong, relatively sweet and has a nutty almost stout-like quality to it that some may find heavy. It’s a personal favourite among serious beer drinkers but may be a little too much for a casual aficionado. STOUT Guinness lovers put down your creamy glasses of the black stuff and try a few stouts on offer in the Aires of Buenos. For some reason, other than that it is delicious, Argentines are obsessed with stout, even Quilmes has got in on it with a number of varieties available at the supermarket. Stout, for the uninitiated is the darkest of the beers on the spectrum, often has chocolate notes and a creamy texture, and is best known for getting the world three sheets to the wind come Saint Patricks day. The breweries have stout as a standard with all those mentioned above pumping out their interpretation. Arguably the best on the list is Antares, but I would urge you to try out any brand you come across, as Argentina does surprisingly well at being Irish. IRISH RED Talking of Irish, Rojo or Red beer is a fan favourite in the artisanal pubs in the city. Arguably this beer first came from the British Bitter brewers, but that factoid is up for debate. Regardless, this beer style has adapted over the years and is now a sweetish, but light red beer, favoured in Argentina and the USA, perfect for any Yanks that are looking for a micro brewery taste without the obscene import tax. HONEY A cracking summer pint. Very fresh but a hint of something sweet and usually a glimmer of a body that you wouldn’t get from a lager. Another standard for the artisanal brew pub, but not replicated by the corporate big boys yet. If you’re looking to put a few away in an evening this is a good beer to start with as you can usually chug 6 or 7 of them before feeling any adverse effects [Editor’s note: Playground Buenos Aires does not encourage or condone that sort of behaviour].

KIOSKO For many people (myself included), sometimes you can’t be bothered to make the trip out all the way to a bar, sit down and have to endure conversation with people. It is far easier to nip to the local kiosko (small shop), buy a kilo of ice cream and shame eat it while binge-watching House of Cards. This depressing picture would not be complete without a litre or two of no-no juice. If store bought beer is your chosen option here’s an idea of what you’re likely to get.

ISENBECK Finally, a beer not owned by Quilmes. Isenbeck is pale ale from the (surprise surprise) German town of Hamm, brought over to Argentina by Warsteiner (another beer you are likely to find at the local shop) but has now been sold to Miller. It’s not the worst beer in the world, but it certainly isn’t the best, costs roughly the same as the cheapest beer though so the lesser of several evils if you’re feeling a little light on cash.

QUILMES

WARSTEINER

I promise this is my last mention of this product, as it holds 75% of the market share it is difficult not to. Bland, unoriginal but cheap and will get the job done. It comes in a variety of flavours none of which are stellar, but sometimes drinking this *ahem* beer is unavoidable, if you find yourself in this situation try and get it on tap as its slightly less terrible than bottled.

Likely to be found in several bars as well, this German lager has a very European twang to its flavour. Those who enjoy Bitburger or Heineken will enjoy this German qausi-import and generally it will be under 30 pesos a bottle when store bought.

IMPERIAL

PATAGONIA

Comes in multiple varieties; Amber, Scotch, Dark, Stout, Lager - the biggest con here is that it’s actually owned by Quilmes (sorry I broke my promise). While slightly more expensive overall it does have more of a flavour and better variation, but that could just be a placebo effect.

At 40 pesos a pop this beer is not for those with light wallets, and coming in at over 200 ml under the standard litre some may feel cheated, however this is by far the best beer you can purchase at the kiosko. Coming in Blonde, Amber and Negra (dark) this is the closest to artisanal beer you are likely to find when stumbling home at 5am from the nearest club. The price may be steep but you won’t consider drinking Quilmes again, and can you really put a price on that?

[Disclaimer | The opinions (about beer brands and otherwise) expressed by individual writers are not necessarily those of Playground BA magazine].

BLONDE Somewhat similar to honey but not so sweet, this type of pale ale can also be made from wheat (think Hoegaarden) which means it could be an acquired taste for some. You can pick some up at the breweries, but you may have to shop around some speciality shops to find some to take home with you.

SPANISH LESSONS FOR EX-PATS AND TRAVELLERS Exam preparation, conversation tutorials, and “lunfardo” (porteño slang) classes with a qualified Argentine professor. All classes are specially tailored for each student with references to Argentine culture, literature, food, and music.

1 hour for only 100 pesos or US$10 Discount available for block lessons Email ceciliaivcarrasco@gmail.com or call Cecilia 1536355464

PABLO ORTIZ AVILA GRAPHIC

DESIGNER

CONTACT ME p.ortiz.avila@gmail.com +54 9 261 648-7797 Porfolio online www.behance.net/PabloOrtizAvila

¿ESTÁS BUSCANDO TRABAJO? ¿TE GUSTA NUESTRA REVISTA? Estamos buscando gente por formar parte del equipo de Playground Buenos Aires

¡El trabajo puede ser full-time, part-time o flexible!

Estamos buscando alguien con estos atributos Motivado | sociable | inteligente | ¡y con ganas a trabajar!

Contactanos para una entrevista y para aprender más sobre la posición de trabajo admin@playgroundba.com

Atributos deseables (pero no necesario) Experiencia en ventas | nivel de inglés alto o medio | transporte propio o facilidad en el uso de transporte público

Daniela Fernandez is a wine lover from La Plata and is currently Sommelier at Francis Mallmann 1884 in Mendoza. She is used to drinking on the job. @Dana_Fernandez_

Scribbles from a Somm... Malbec but not

Whenever I talk to someone Argentina´s wines, we talk if this person is a little bit with Malbec, you can make

as you know it

from another country about about Malbec of course; but curious, I would also say that more than just red wines...

Vicentin Blanc de Malbecs 2013 - Bodega Vicentin $105

A lovely rarity… This is a difficult wine to categorize: by colour, it is a white Malbec wine, but its structure cannot be easily pigeonholed. Once we let ourselves enjoy it, we’ll discover it is an unctuous wine, and we can also say that the oak gives more structure. Exceptionally nice; very interesting and original.

L’argentin de Malartic, Rose - Bodega Diamandes $62

La Vie en Rose ... the singular feature of this beautiful wine is that it very delicately combines fruit and freshness. With fresh strawberry aromas, this is a stylish and expressive wine, inviting you to drink more than one glass. This is a nice wine to start an evening. A wine without pretense; allow yourself to be surprised more than once. It is always a great satisfaction.

Laureano Gomez Rosé de Malbec - Bodega Laureano Gomez $140

Some lovely bubbles…. This is a sparkling wine with a very attractive color; it has a stronger intensity than the other Malbec rosés that are on the market. Its aroma highlights a truly delicate, subtle and soft strawberry. The palate has the same notes that were presented in nose, and there is a smoothness generated by time in oak. The finish is medium, and has a pleasant persistence. I’m telling you a secret, and you should be quick because there are only 2000 bottles!

Malamado Fortificado based on Malbec - Bodega Zuccardi $112

The conspiracy of love…. This is a really sweet wine. It is perfect with chocolate or cigars, and has a large presence in the mouth. A wine that combines structure and sweetness. Beyond the ingenuity of the name (Malbec the Port way - Malbec A LA Manera De Oporto), I am sure that any sweet tooth will love it. Returning to the main point, I think if we talk about Argentine wines, we can close this review just by mentioning one gorgeous red Malbec.

El Enemigo Malbec - Bodega Aleanna $294

The search for perfection …This Malbec stepped boldly into the market. Despite the author´s inspiration to call it “The Enemy”; I can say that this bottle has already made many friends. An unforgettable wine, a nose of red and black fruits, plummy, with roasted hints. Full bodied on the palate; which combines very soft and pleasant tannins. It also presents a very interesting persistence. A bold Malbec which speaks for itself; so I definitely recommend you just try it.

Argentina had even started making wine, Malbec was making waves in France as it was grown all over the country, earning itself over a thousand different names. The great Phylloxera disease wiped out much of France's Malbec and then a series of bad frosts in the 50s all but finished it off as a mainstream variety. Although it still features in some blends, Malbec is only renowned in the Cahors region nowadays where it is nicknamed Black Wine because of its intense dark colour. When the Cahors DOC was formed in 1971, the wines in the area had to have at least 70% of Malbec in the blend. So French Malbec became known simply as 'Cahors'. Meanwhile in Argentina, the variety started gaining international fame in the 90s and by 2000 plantings were spreading like wildfire making Argentina the biggest Malbec producer in the world, with 85% of the world's Malbec planted here. The variety became famous once again and now everyone wants a piece of the action from Chile and the USA to Australia and South Africa. Even the French stalwarts have contrary to the status quo - begun marketing their Cahors as 'Malbec'. Argentina and Malbec's great love affair made them both more desirable to the world. The grass is certainly greener on this side.

A free app guide to MendozaÂ´s wineries, wines and regions !

www.thesqueezemagazine.com/app

Amanda Barnes is a wine writer who has been trying to get in between Argentina and its Malbec since her own rampant love affair began with Argentina over 5 years ago. You can read more wine and travel articles of hers at www.amandabarnes.co.uk and www.thesqueezemagazine.com @amanda_tweeter

& ITS MALBEC

ARGENTINA

rgentina owes a lot to Malbec, and Malbec owes a lot to Argentina. Both were in the forgotten back alleys of the wine world: one an obscure French wine variety that few wanted to use as more than a blending grape, and the other a far away land that made no wines of any international interest. Since their love affair with each other over the last two decades though, both Malbec and Argentina are on the radar of almost every wine drinker - and almost always bound together. Argentina is synonymous with Malbec, and Malbec is synonymous with Argentina. The excellent Malbec in Argentina brought Argentine wine to steak houses around the globe, and because of the fantastic quality and value Argentina gave Malbec, the grape became fashionable again and began to go through a renaissance with planting popping up all over the world's wine regions. Despite Malbec and Argentina's clearly intimate relationship, it is important to remember that Argentina did not discover Malbec. The grape has a genetic history stretching back hundreds of years and was indeed brought to Argentina from its probable homeland France only in 1868. Before

Interview by AMANDA BARNES

Artist profile /// DANIEL GENOVESI This edition’s artist is Daniel Genovesi who designed our front cover in his usual colourful style. Amanda Barnes interviews him to find out what brings the colour to his life. How would you describe yourself to someone who has never met you? As a child I applied myself to education, but I had an almost uncontrollable behaviour, I was restless and always anxious to be doing lots of things at the same time… I studied, I went to take swimming lessons until I could compete in the sport. With time I changed swimming for rugby, where I made some

You can visit Daniel’s workshop and showroom in Palermo (Humboldt 1550, L 4, Palermo Hollywood) or contact him

unforgettable friends, and I started to share my passion for painting with my mother more… she is an artist but dedicated herself completely to having a family, leaving art on one side. This shared passion from a young age was my motor, because since I was a child I wanted to make drawings and create my own characters and imaginary worlds with which I enjoyed playing with. Time showed me how to take out the millions of colours and forms in my mind, giving life to sheets of paper, wood, fabrics and objects. And as I say now “Every object that supports my art… it turns into my own support.”

What inspires creativity in you? I am a multi-disciplinary artist… because the ideas that are generated in my mind, those that I externally receive and those that I invent… in some moment of the day I have to download them. I always find a strength in what accepts so much craziness. Therefore what inspires me is the illogical within reality. Why did you decide to open a workshop and gallery in Palermo? For a long time I’ve wanted to open a workshop in Buenos Aires… After much looking I finally foung one that killed me - it was love at

info@danielgenovesi.com

facebook.com/daniel.genovesi

(11) 15 640 40044.

@danigenovesii

www.danielgenovesi.com

first sight! And the rest was just a question of time. The thing is that after two months I opened my own studio, I felt fulfilled! Describe life in Buenos Aires in 5 words. Dizzying, hectic, fun, enthusiastic and promising. You have explored many different areas of art in your time (architecture, design, audiovisual to name a couple), have you found one that you enjoy the most?

Of course ‘the art of making and creating’. You also teach art courses. What is the greatest lesson one can learn in art? I give art clinics and the best lesson is to start from the beginning! Nobody can achieve anything they try to do by being rushed and even less so when you don’t even know what you want to obtain with a mix of colours. The base is the most important as it serves to hold up everything that is built on top of it.

If you weren’t an artist here in Argentina in 2014, what would you be, when and where? I would be an artist in whichever part of the world, I feel that I always was one. Where? Surely in a great city or capital because I like big challenges, and I’m also very metropolitan. When? In whichever moment! I still haven’t managed to sit still and make roots in one place. I am always thinking in producing and generating art work and this makes me travel and feel that I can take on any project in any place and continent.

? e n o y n a , a e t r TFive Oim’CelocfkoTieraeins B u e n os A

o what does one do in the middle of Winter in Buenos Aires? Go for ‘Afternoon Tea’ of course. Yes, it may not seem like the typical Argentine experience yet this quintessential English tradition has very much made its way across the pond and locals can’t get enough of it. However, there is one notable difference to the English version and that is Argentine’s prefer their tea (like their dinner) a little later, afternoon tea here normally arrives anytime after 5pm… As the weather takes a slight dip, there seems to be no better time to treat oneself to a spot of tea and whatever else just happens ‘to fall’ onto your plate. In the spirit of 5 O’Clock tea, Claire Mc Keever recommends five tried and tested places to get you started: MALVON With two bases in Villa Crespo and Palermo, Malvon makes a great option for afternoon/early evening tea. I visited the Villa Crespo branch and was immediately impressed with the welcoming and warm interior; filled with vintage decor and rustic charm. For ‘Hora de Té’ there is a unique choice of ‘Tealosophy’ teas, including ‘Chelsea Garden’ (Rose, Lavender and Madagascar Vanilla Tea) and a great selection of baked treats to choose from. After much deliberation, I went for a traditional Earl Grey, Maracuya (passionfruit) cheesecake and of course, the obligatory scone with cream and jam. Simply divine. Lafinur 3275, Palermo (11) 4807-1458. Mon & Tues 8 - 20.30; Wed - Sun 8 midnight. Serrano 789, Villa Crespo (11) 4774-2563. Daily 9 - 20.30. FLORENCIO Florencio, a patisserie and brasserie, will have your mouth watering before you’ve even cross its threshold; the smell and sight of freshly made cakes hitting you on

Claire Mc Keever Coming from a small coastal town in Ireland, Claire fell in love with travelling at a young age and now lives in Buenos Aires working as a writer and in marketing. You can follow her life and travel stories at herworldseyeview.tumblr.com

arrival. A small but perfectly formed cafe that will make you feel right at home in its cosy surroundings. The owner is in fact Maria Laura D’Aloisio, a well-known Argentinian TV chef, so you will immediately feel in safe hands as you sit down to your tea and cake. Francisco de Vittoria 2364, Recoleta (11) 4807-6477. Mon - Sat, 9 - 20, & late nights Wed & Fri. LAS VIOLETAS Located in Almagro, the stained glass windows, shades of lavender and grand interior of Las Violetas make it hard to miss. Built 129 years ago, the building is still a favourite for ‘Hora de Té’ and not surprisingly hard to beat in terms of its authenticity and charm. Once inside there is a buzzy atmosphere and great people watching opportunities. The ‘Hora de Te’ itself is quite an undertaking, with a wide selection of breads and baked treats, accompanied by a large pot of tea... But who’s complaining? Av. Rivadavia 3899 (corner of Medrano), Almagro (11) 4958 7387. L’ORANGERIE If you’re wanting to go all out then the ‘Afternoon Tea’ at L’Orangerie at the Alvear Hotel is a must; expect white linen tablecloths, the finest china, a special house blend, ‘Alvear Tea blend’, and ornate pastries made by an onsite pastry chef. Exquisite is a word that pops to mind and definitely a good option if you’re on the look out for a fancier affair! Avda. Alvear 1891, Centre (11) 4808-2949. Mon - Sat 16.30 - 19, Sun 17 - 19. NUCHA After over 30 years of business, its no wonder that Nucha has nailed it when it comes to sweet treats and their ‘Hora de Té’ is no exception. On offer at any one of its twelve sites across the city are endless pastries,

cakes and breads to choose from along with a nice cuppa, making it hard to believe it all began in a humble kitchen in Belgrano. A personal favourite is Nucha’s dulche de leche filled tortas (in fact, anything dulche de leche related gets my vote). Not only that but they also do deliveries, so you can organise your very own ‘5 O’Clock Tea’ in the comfort of your own home. Different locations | Salguero 2587, Cerviño 4417, Sucre 664, Armenia 1540, Lafinur 3368, Zabala and OHiggins, Parana 1343, Patio Bullrich, Nicaragua 6055, Casa del Angel, Pacheco de Melo 1865, Centro Comercial Nordelta, Galerias Pacifico. www.nucha.com.ar

L’Orangerie Alvear

Nucha Tea

Nucha - Tortas

f the closest you can get to sampling pricey tasting menus and celebrity cooks is watching the judges on MasterChef, how about going back to basics and whipping up your own culinary extravaganza? Or, perhaps you’re simply after some organic produce that are lacking in high-street supermarkets? While some food markets, such as Sabe La Tierra, have been around for donkey’s years highlighting sustainable consumption and supporting small producers, other newer ones trading on the celebrity of the ever-popular foodie scene but welcome nonetheless are helping to open up the often-narrow Argentine palate. From organic to pop-up, weekly, monthly and even country-specific offerings, this is our guide to food markets in Buenos Aires.

Buenos Aires Market, pop-up, monthly ‘I went to Barracas last weekend and all I bought was some black garlic’ is not a usual statement unless we’re referring to Buenos Aires Market. One of the newer mercados on the block, this outdoor extravaganza holds particular appeal given that it springs up in a different neighbourhood each month. From Palermo Woods to Barrancas de Belgrano and more recent addition El Dorrego on the cusp of Palermo Hollywood and Colegiales, the usual yet dependable suspects gather to sell their wares in a different indoor or outdoor venue. From mushrooms and honey to Wapi cheese and plenty of jams and wholewheat pasta, the emphasis is on healthy rather than organic across the board. BA Market also manages to combine small producers with more well-known brands such as olive oil behemoth Zuelo. Treat the BA Market like a marathon with some tactics: arrive early before the middle-class masses; sharpen elbows to ensure a place at the front of the queues; go hungry to take advantage of the sandwiches, salads and wheatgrass juices. www.buenosairesmarket.com

Mercado de San Telmo, every day

THIS LITTLE PIGGY WENT

TO M A RK E T

While you might pay a few pesos more than usual for some coriander or a kilo of vacío for that afternoon’s asado, the fact is you can always depend on San Telmo market when you need to source a healthy-looking bunch of green goodness or that slab of meat. Not to be confused with the weekend-only Fería de San Pedro Telmo street fair, many visitors tend to make a beeline for the knick-knacks and antiques at this 1897-built indoor market that takes up an entire block. In fact, the secret is to go with an empty shopping basket to stock up on fresh and handsome produce – or perhaps some essential entrails - that might not make it to your local neighbourhood store, and when only the finest vine tomatoes will do. Given that there are numerous fruit and veg stands means you get to shop around under one roof to find exactly what you want. Also stop off at Coffee Town, slap bang in the middle of the market, for a little caffeine mouth-to-mouth. Bolivar and Estados Unidos

Photos by Rosie Hilder

Mercado del Progreso, Monday to Saturday While fresh-off-the-boat tourists wax lyrical about the joys (and they are many) of San Telmo Market, those who are truly in the know head in one direction only: to Caballito’s Mercado del Progreso. In business since 1889, it’s well stocked, well priced and even quite close to Palermo for those not keen on leaving the ‘hood. With an ample selection of butchers, verduleros and even fishmongers in this neck of the woods, this might be the most authentic indoor market in Buenos Aires.Rivadavia 5430 www.mercadodelprogreso.com.ar

Mercado Central, Monday to Friday If the thought of facing the dawn chorus and public transport together turn your blood to icicles, then the following market is not for you. But if the prospect of stuffing up your freezer with all kinds of meat and food stuffs at cost price at five in the morning is a huge turn-on, then schlep it out to Tapiales (where?) on the number 8 bus to Central Market. Take a rucksack or a trolley and fill it up real good - this is not an expedition you’ll be keen to repeat in the near future. Word of warning: the possibility of bumping into your regular verdulero is high so avoid eye contact at all times you just cost him his job. www.mercadocentral.gob.ar

Mobile markets, Tuesday to Sunday Where? When? What? There’s nothing quite like the excitement of a feria itinerante to keep you on your toes. Popping up in a whopping 12 different neighbourhoods six days a week, this government initiative has been quite the hit given that it was set up to keep prices in check on food basics. From Almagro to La Boca and Colegiales, look out for the yellow caravans parking up alongside plazas once a week. While produce can be classed in the category of the usual suspects, at least you know your lettuce, tomato and onion salad came in at a decent, possibly inflation-busting, price. These mobile markets also dabble in potted plants, bleach and loo roll, and neon clothing. www.buenosaires.gob.ar

Underground Market, quarterly

Mercado de Juramento, Monday to Saturday Naturally the well-heeled in Belgrano have their own, extremely decent indoor market that comes as a welcome relief if you usually head up that way to traipse around Chinatown and still come up with nothing thanks to the crowds. Another chip off the old block given that it was founded in 1891, Juramento (whose real name is Feria Model de Belgrano) has plenty of top-notch butchers under its roof specialising in more ‘exotic’ cuts of meat such as llama and caiman. Juramento 2500

flickr.com/buenos-aires-market

Starting out as a project coordinated by the Argentina Independent website that brought together homesick foreigners reproducing sweet and savoury goodies that they couldn’t get for love nor money in Argentina, the Underground Market quickly cemented its reputation not only for its kooky location on the third floor of the worker-run IMPA factory in Almagro but for the unexpected array of foodstuffs on offer. An ideal kickoff point for those looking to get a new idea out into the open, Bratwurst sausages, Adentro Dinner Club’s limoncello, KelinCakes’ choccie and banana muffins, Katherine’s fudge and Oh Yeah It’s Vegan have delighted punters over the past two years. www.argentinaindependent.com

Organic While ‘organic’ isn’t an official categorisation in a legislative sense in Argentina, there are plenty of producers around the country that adhere to such growing norms and don’t use pesticides or chemicals. From wine to dairy, fruit and veg, meat, olive oil and bread, you can pick up organic produce from several markets around the city. Simply bear in mind that meat or eggs, for example, might be classified as free-range rather than organic in other parts of the world. Palermo holds a decent hand in organic markets, with the small yet almost perfectly formed Punto Verde (Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Dorrego 1429, www.mercadopuntoverde.com.ar) and Mercado Solidario Bonpland (Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Bonpland 1661), which stocks a wide variety of fresh goods as well as sustainable wares that support indigenous communities and opens late until 10pm, leading the pack. One must-visit is Chacarita’s El Galpón (Wednesdays and Saturdays, Federico Lacroze 4171,www.elgalpon. org.ar), a yellow, corrugated-iron shed located next to the railway line that also houses its own organic garden and restaurant. Meanwhile San Telmo Verde has a keen line in fresh produce as well as ready-to-eat treats (Tuesdays and Fridays, Perú 677). Meanwhile, it’s worth the train ride to Sabe la Tierra (Saturdays, San Fernando station, Tren de la Costa, www. sabelatierra.com), that’s been bringing together organic producers while promoting sustainability that takes place on the station platform since 2010. Just beginning to spread its wings, check their website for localised editions in Vicente López and also Palermo this winter.

Sabe la Tierra

Sabe la tierra Sabe la Tierra

Worthy mentions Masticar, an annual affair organised by some of the country’s top chefs; Petit Marché, a Facebook-led event specialising in French produce; sporadic food fairs on Avenida de Mayo that celebrate cuisines from around the world; Raíz, an annual epic gathering at Tecnópolis just outside the city in Vicente López; Under market set up by young chefs Naiara Calviño and Diego Rizzi.

Sorrel Moseley-Williams is a British journalist who has lived in Buenos Aires since 2006, after falling for its charms on a study abroad program.

paulalifs@gmail.com

workaholic. She is born and raised Argentinean but finds that English is the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;language of her soulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. As well as writing poetry, short stories and novels, she is an English teacher.

Sol Cifre is a self-admitted

Turtle-neck thoughts roam along the frosty streets. Rosy cheeks match the pinkish lipstick under their pale complexion. Eagerly awaiting the suffocating heat, the aimless naked limbs. In the meantime, a myriad of palms gently grab those coffee mugs, enchanted by their temporary relief as the passerby exhales the first and last of Our dear, dreaded w inter day.

Paula Lifschitz was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina. She grew up in Houston, Texas and later studied art history at the University of Pennsylvania. She has lived all over the world, but she has made Buenos Aires her home for the past decade. There she dedicates herself to painting and sculpting, and she also teaches some English classes.

Poem by Sol Cifre

Art by Paula Lifschitz

RUGBY

CHAMPIONSHIP

illing the void left by one of the most enthralling World Cups in recent memory will be no easy task - Alejandro Sabella’s men took Argentina to within a hair’s breadth of glory, only to be cruelly denied by Germany’s Mario Götze seven minutes from time. However, “Los Pumas” will be hoping to heal the hearts of a nation as 2014 Rugby Championship kicks off August 16. Expectations will undoubtedly be lower given that the other three teams making up the party are arguably the strongest rugby outfits on the planet: New Zealand, Australia, and South Africa. But as history dictates, Argentina is more than capable of upsetting the big guns on the field of play. Not only did the team finish third in the 2007 World Cup but only narrowly lost to England in the 2011 group stage before eventually falling prey against the “All Blacks” in the quarter finals, despite leading after 30 minutes. Formally known as the Tri Nations, the Rugby Championship formed after the inclusion of Argentina in 2012 in what was described as “a defining moment for South American rugby” by South Africa, New Zealand and Australia Rugby (SANZAR) chief Greg Peters. Before joining the

LOS PUMAS

THE

WALLABIES

SPRINGBOK

ALL BLACKS

George Nelson is a British journalist and football fan who is living in Buenos Aires and enjoys writing about environmental and social issues, as well as sport.

tournament, Argentina was the only tier one rugby nation with no regular competition. “For years Argentine rugby has been seeking to participate in an annual tournament. ‘Los Pumas’ play a different brand of rugby to the other three teams,” said Peters. Each leg of the tournament is referred to by a different name: The Castle Rugby Championship in South Africa, The Investic Rugby Championship in New Zealand, The Personal Rugby Championship in Argentina, and the Castrol Edge Rugby Championship in Australia. Argentina’s newly appointed captain, Worcester Warriors hooker Agustin Creevy, will be planning to shock South Africa in Pretoria before hosting “The Springboks” a week later in Salta, August 23. Both Creevy and head coach Daniel Hourcade are seeking Argentina’s debut triumph in the competition although a number of performances have shown promise including a 16-16 draw against South Africa in 2012. “This is an immense joy. I did not expect this as there are many other players with important qualities,” said Creevy, who has 28 caps, upon

ARGENTINA’S FIXTURES Aug 16 South Africa vs. Argentina Pretoria Aug 23 Argentina vs. South Africa Salta Sept 6 New Zealand vs. Argentina Napier Sept 13 Australia vs. Argentina Gold Coast Sept 27 Argentina vs. New Zealand La Plata Oct 4 Argentina vs. Australia Mendoza

receiving the captaincy. “I receive it with great honour and I hope to keep guiding our players.” One player aiming to dictate the play for the Argentines is 26-year-old fly half Martín Landajo, who has big boots to fill. Felipe Contepomi held down the position for 15 years and is regarded as a legend of the game after tallying a total of 651 points and 87 caps for “Los Pumas.” Landajo has impressed though, as well as new comers Jerónimo de la Fuente, Lucas Noguera Paz and Santiago González Iglesias. Results have been a little mixed since Hourcade’s appointment in 2013 but an impressive victory over Italy in Rome provided encouragement for a number of those making up the young and largely inexperienced squad. Thirty players were taken to a Florida training camp during July in a bid to gel the team, many of whom play in England and France. Traditionally, Argentina is known for possessing a strong pack and for being incredibly physical in both open play and the tackle. The team certainly plays to its strength and the players representing “Los Pumas” have built up a reputation over the years for putting their bodies on the line. Argentina’s first match against South Africa will be tough - “The Springboks” also enjoy a fierce physical reputation, perhaps even more so than the Argentines. Pretoria’s Loftus Versfeld Stadium is a hostile place to visit, especially after a lengthy trans-Atlantic flight, but one thing is for certain, the Argentines will give everything. After hosting South Africa a week later, Argentina have a 13 day break before travelling to New Zealand, who boast a 100% record in the Rugby Championship and are the current holders of the cup. Seven days later Australia awaits on the Gold Coast. Return legs against the South Hemisphere heavyweights will then take place in Estadio Cuidado de La Plata just outside Buenos Aires La and Mendoza’s Estadio Malvinas Argentinas. The underdog status of Argentina’s rugby team might well work in its favour and the players will take inspiration from the likes of World Cup heroes Lionel Messi, Angel di Maria, and Ezequiel Garay. The heartbreak of Brazil can hopefully be utilised into a driving force by Hourcade’s troops - every game will be treated as a cup final by the Argentines during the six weeks of the Rugby Championship and as a result is likely to be a trilling watch.

DESTINATION GUIDE / SKI & SNOW SPOTS IN ARGENTINA Amanda Barnes is a British journalist and wine writer who has been enjoying finding her ski legs in Argentina, but has been enjoying the après-ski vino a little more. www.amandabarnes.co.uk amanda_tweeter

As it gets chilly in the capital, it is getting a lot cooler up in the mountains and this is the time of year that is perfect for powder hunters. With the Andes mountain range stretching along the entire spine of Argentina there are numerous resorts dotted along the length of the country. Here is a pick of the best three resorts to get your snow season fix!

Ski lift - Cerro Castor

CERRO CASTOR & USHUAIA SKI The southernmost slopes in the world, Cerro Castor is just 26km from Ushuaia and usually has guaranteed snow till October - which, considering the season started in June, makes it one of the longest ski season’s in Argentina. This area has become one of the favourite spots for European professionals who come here during their Summer for excellent off-piste skiing and no risk of the altitude sickness which can sometimes affect sportsmen in the higher Andes slopes. With 10 lifts and 28 trails, there is plenty of white stuff to explore and a snow park to keep you in training on your skis or snowboards. This is also a favourite spot for alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, sledding, dog sledding and snowshoes, and its fabulous location tucked between forests makes it picture perfect.

Ski at Cerro castor

www.cerrocastor.com Season | June - October Price | Day pass from $540 pesos in high season

APRÉS-SKI There is a ski lodge on site but you’ll have more fun staying in one of the many accommodation options in Ushuaia. The city is a year-round destination for wildlife spotting and getting that all-important passport stamp from ‘the end of the world’. Renowned for the fabulous centolla (king crab), other shellfish and rich Patagonian lamb, most après-ski action in Ushuaia involves eating and drinking while staying warm in the many restaurants. Other attractions are the museums, the train at the end of the world www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar, and the spectacular Tierra del Fuego National Park. Whether you want to stay in the city or in one of the host of more luxury options on the hillsides surrounding the port, there are plenty of places to

choose from: Arakur is the newest and flashiest hotel in Ushuaia with stunning bay views and an indoor-outdoor pool in the middle of a nature reserve www.arakur.com; Los Caquenes Spa and Resort offers a handsome vantage point along the Beagle Channel and a well equipped spa as well as their own private boat for excursions into the Channel to visit the wildlife www.loscauquenes. com; and Cumbres del Martial offers quaint snow-surrounded cabins with a traditional and cosy English tea house www.cumbresdelmartial.com.ar right next to the glacier.

Cabin

CERRO CATEDRAL & BARILOCHE SKI With over 120kms of slopes, and 600 hectares to discover by ski, Cerro Castor is the biggest ski resort in South America. One of the first ski resorts in Argentina, Cerro Catedral is one of the most established and extensive ski destinations here. There are 39 lifts to get you up to over 50 well-marked runs which cater for all types of skiers from newbies to advanced black run and off-piste fans. There is a kids club to keep the children entertained so the adults can go off and play, and there are schools and practice parks to hone your skills on the powder.

Ski at Cerro Catedral

Ski lift - Cerro Catedral

HOW TO GET THERE Ushuaia is a 3.5hr direct flight from Buenos Aires, or a two day bus journey via Rio Gallegos.

Ushuaia city

www.catedralaltapatagonia.com Season | June - October Price | Day pass from $615 in high season

APRÉS-SKI

Bariloche City

Just 20kms from Bariloche, most people stay in the popular mountain destination when visiting Cerro Catedral. Bariloche is famous for its beautiful lake district, homemade chocolate and artisanal brews. While the weather might be a bit windy for too much walking, you’ll certainly want to save some of your calf power for after the slopes to explore the many different treks that are accessible nearby the city. Another popular pastime here is fishing, which can be done as catch-and-release all year round. If you are weary after the snow though, Bariloche is the ideal place for warming hot chocolates and a relaxing pint or two of home brews. The pretty city centre is easily walk-able and you can poke your head between the different chocolatiers, bars and restaurants with ease. Accommodation runs from simple hostels and B&Bs to the renowned luxury of Llao Llao Golf & Spa resort located in a perfect ambling spot on one of the lower mountains in the national park www.llaollao.com; the aptly named Charming resort close to downtown but with the luxury of private spas in each suite and a restaurant overlooking the lake www.charmingbariloche.com; or get a flavour of estancia life at Peuma Hue luxury estancia with horse-riding and boat trips from their private estate only 30mins from the ski slopes www.peuma-hue.com.

Base Point

LAS LENAS & MENDOZA SKI With 29 pistas around this beautiful mountain setting in the high Andes, the weather here is usually so sunny that you can ski in a t-shirt! With a range of runs for different abilities as well as off-piste routes, Las Leñas reaches up to 3,430 meters above sea level offering you an exhilarating 1200m vertical drop down to the 2,240m base point. A handful of hotels, a kids club and a wide range of lessons made this a nice pick for those who really want to focus on good skiing in the sunshine.

Ski at Las Leñas

HOW TO GET THERE Direct flights from Buenos Aires are a little over 2 hours, or you can take a 20-24hr bus journey from the capital.

Ski lift

range of accommodation options including ultraluxury offerings like Cavas Wine Lodge www. cavaswinelodge.com in Lujan de Cuyo, Entre Cielos www.entrecielos.com in Vistalba or The Park Hyatt www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com right in the city centre.

Downtown Mendoza

www.laslenas.com Season | late June - mid September Price | Day pass from $585 in high season

APRÉS-SKI What could be better for après-ski then being in the heart of Argentine wine land? The closest big city to Las Leñas is Mendoza, at 450km (6 hour bus journey, or 4.5 hour drive) from the ski resort this is the best bet for a fun base to recover after a couple days on the snow. Mendoza is renowned for its overflowing wine culture, great gastronomy and beautiful mountain scenery. Spend a couple days here touring wineries, walking in the mountains or exploring the other nearby ski resort in Penitentes www.lospenitentes.com.

HOW TO GET THERE There is a weekly flight to Malargue, or daily flights to San Rafael, or Mendoza from Buenos Aires, each direct flight is between 1.5 - 2 hours. By car, Malargue is an hour from Las Leñas, San Rafael is 2hrs away and Mendoza is 4.5hrs away. Or take a 15 hour bus journey from Buenos Aires to Las Lenas or Malargue; or a 13 hour bus to Mendoza where you can also connect to San Rafael.

Kayak at Cañón del Atuel

Alternatively stay in San Rafael for another Malbecsoaked destination. This smaller city has wineries within cycling distance and if you hire a car or join a tour you can also explore San Rafael’s version of the Grand Canyon, Canón del Atuel with its beautiful, bare and colourful rocks framed by a sparkling blue lake of water where you can kayak (if you are brave!) and go on nature-spotting walks. Closer to the ski resort is the small town of Malargue which is renowned for its chivito (kid goat) and astronomy museums and observatories. There are mainly hostels and B&Bs in Malargue, while in San Rafael you will find a mix of hostels, hotels and a popular boutique hotel and wine lodge just outside of town, Algodon Wine Estates www. algodonwineestates.com If you do decide to stay in Mendoza before or after skiing there is a wide

A SPIN ON FITNESS POLE DANCE CLASSES IN BUENOS AIRES

“

Hang in there, just another 3 pull-ups to go” is what I tell myself, as my body shakes with exhaustion and my breath turns ragged. I’ve already done somewhere between 100 and 500 sit-ups, more than a minute of burpees - the gym move created by some evil genius that combines pushups and jumping; and I’ve still got at least 5 minutes of squats ahead of me. All of which, I’ll need to repeat again at my instructor’s command. Am I in some boot-camp training center? Nope. What I’m describing is the first 20 minutes of my pole dance class, the new, hot fitness trend making its mark in Buenos Aires. It’s not common knowledge, but in the past 20 years pole dancing has left the strip club to gain international popularity as a form of exercise in which men and women can build strength, gain cardio endurance, and achieve their fitness goals. Today, everyone from celebrities including Amy Adams, Heather Graham, Cindy Crawford, and Teri Hatcher to soccer moms are enjoying the great workout that pole dance provides. Pole dancing is classed as strength-based interval training, combining isotonic and isometric movements to provide an allover body workout. But besides

being a great fitness routine, pole dance is also a lot of FUN! A typical pole dance class begins with strength training, dancebased moves, and traditional exercises such as squats, push-ups, and sit-ups; and gradually works its way up to spins, climbs and inversions. Similar to equipment-free boot-camp classes, pole uses your body as the weight and resistance to help you gradually build core and general body strength over time. Dancers might make it look easy, but hanging upside down with only an arm or a leg to hold you takes a ton of balance, flexibility and strength. The ideal clothing is shorts and a sports-bra - your skin against the pole causes friction that can help keep you in the air and off the ground, but if you’re just starting classes for the first time, shorts and a t-shirt should provide enough comfort and freedom to move easily. In Argentina there are a number of studios bringing this fitness trend to the streets of Buenos Aires. Just like gyms at home though, each has its own distinct teaching style that will suit individuals differently depending on their personal preferences. My experience with pole dance has taught me that there are primarily three types of studios.

Lauren Miner is a writer and consultant from the US living in Argentina. She enjoys sushi, dance, yoga and travel, and you can read about her attempts at healthy living while in the land of empanadas at Active Expat www.activeexpat.com

First, there are those that are artistically inclined. They tend to be serious schools for learning artistry and proper pole technique. Think of a ballet class, but with a vertical barre. Secondly, you’ve got studios focused on the dance aspect of pole. In this case, it’s common for the class to be more sensual and movement oriented. It may even incorporate female empowerment strategies to help you build mental confidence as you build physical strength. The third type of studio operates like a gym. Simply put, the pole is a piece of fitness equipment like a barbell or a bench press and the spins, climbs and inversions are the exercises. Each offers a great work out, but it’s up to you to decide how dance-y or serious you want to get. Here are some great local options for trying out each of the pole studio styles: ART DANCE STUDIO Multiple locations www.artdancestudio.com.ar A professional pole studio with a large presence throughout South America. Teachers come from all over the world to train and be trained by Art Dance Studio. Their instruction is focused on proper technique and strength training.

The studio is geared towards dancers who are interested in a more intense level of study. FIT VERTICAL DANCE Rivadavia 2576 Avenue 1st Floor www.fitverticaldance.com.ar Offers dance classes centered on elongation, strength, dexterity and acrobatics. Works with all levels of students from novice to advanced. Fit Vertical combines various styles of dance such as burlesque and belly dance to keep classes fun and flirty. Ideal for those looking to tap into their inner vixen. BA POLE STUDIO Juan Ramírez de Velazco 492 www.bapolestudio.com Studio provides a wide range of classes focused on specific aspects of pole dance fitness. The student body is made up of woman of all ages and levels of experience. Teachers adapt their instruction to meet individual students’ needs, while keeping the classes physically challenging and varied. There are many reasons to try pole dance in Buenos Aires if you haven’t taken “a spin” before. Besides the overall health benefits, there’s an immediate

reward for your effort because unlike many forms of exercise in which you create generic or distant goals, such as ‘to win a tournament’ or ‘to run 26 miles’, in pole there’s always a new move that’s just within reach. Tangible goals makes it highly motivating, and also extremely empowering. For these reasons and more, pole dance is a fun, effective, and highly adaptive form of exercise. You won’t regret making pole dance an integral part of your Argentine fitness routine!

WORRIED ABOUT THE LANGUAGE BARRIER? The great thing about dance or exercising within a class setting is that you always have the ability to watch and follow along. It doesn’t matter if you don’t know the word for squat in Spanish...if you see that everyone else is going in to a squat, there’s a good chance that you should do it too! To find even more information on pole dance in Argentina, like where to buy dance clothes, the buzz around studios, teacher profiles and upcoming competitions, check out www.pole-dance.com.ar

Whilst Argentina’s asado is deservedly legendary, there may come a time when you want to wake up without feeling you’re still digesting last night’s meal. If you feel in need of freshening up with some of the green stuff, wipe the grease from your chops and head to these healthy havens. Whilst parillas abound these little gems are scattered about the city but the green revolution is here and it’s growing.

Helen Appleby is a yoga teacher, massage therapist, writer and mother of two young boys. You can follow her blog at www.onawingandaprayerblog. wordpress.com

JUEVES A LA MESA Currently housed in a stunning late 18th century building, Jueves a la mesa is a ‘puerta cerrada’ restaurant serving up delicious green fair delivered with integrity and dedication to the vegetarian cause.

feeling we’d made new friends. And would be back. www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com Address supplied at time of booking. Thursday table, photo by Ramiro Landeo

Ushered into a warmly lit living room with open kitchen you are invited to witness chefs Sofia and Tatu busily working away as welcome drinks are served. Twelve new faces then sit round a large communal table ready to devour. So to the food! Zingy ceviche with green plantain intrigued the taste buds then on to a warming soup with pitch perfect herbs and root vegetables. Yamani rice with shiitake mushrooms, omelette with fennel and sweet potato in a Huancaina sauce followed. A quiet revelation was found in the cardamom infused water (good for energy) and organic Mendoza wines which were included in the reasonable price. Maybe it’s the intimacy effect of being brought into someone’s home but there is the distinct feeling that heart and soul have been put into this endeavour; thought and care in its delivery. To finish | darker than night chocolate truffles were served with an exquisitely juicy square of fresh pineapple and orange wedges. Fresh mint tea infusions or coffee see you off. Food is delicately spiced, light and wholesome. Founder Meghan Lewis is behind the successful Buena Onda yoga studio which explains the sense of health and balance evoked in each mouthful. Palate satisfied, heartened by lively conversation and with a palpable glow of self-righteousness, we departed

ARTEMISIA Tucked away on a quiet corner of Palermo Hollywood you’ll find this oasis of pescatarian delights. On arrival a delicious variety of homemade breads are ushered to your table with a garlic-humming hummus. Corn bread, raisin and rye, seeded, wholemeal…after which I lost count. These breads are also available to take away, as well as a selection of muffins and homemade cakes. Open from breakfast through to dinner but to come too early would be missing the point. The lunch set menu is great value for money, (if you don’t count the taxi you’ll need to transport your pulse-loaded self to your next destination). Food is wholesome, filling and with tasty twists to the usual vegetarian fair. Mains include: polenta lasagne stuffed with stir fried vegetables in a soy and brown sugar sauce, Thai fish curry with chestnuts, raisins and lemon grass as well as delectable daily specials. If this sounds too much for lunch there is an extensive list of healthy, inventive salads, and bruschettas. Try crispy polenta with tomato and cilantro or roasted pears with goat’s cheese

on rosemary focaccia and a quince vinaigrette. Should you be mad enough to need further enticement there are small tapas plates including mouth-watering beets in ginger, honey and rosemary and vegetable ceviche. One drawback | despite its kooky mismatched crockery/ coloured crochet vibe is the coldness of the high ceilinged concrete surrounds. But being BA it’s usually sunny enough to grab one of the outside tables in the sun. Just bring a warm coat. Enjoy! www.artemisianatural.com.ar Gorriti y Arevalo Cabrera 4863 4242 Gorriti 4776 5484 Artemisia Natural - Indoor Restaurant

NATURALEZA SABIA A long time staple of San Telmo’s herbivorous set, Naturaleza Sabia offers a refreshing change of culinary tack. Relaxed and friendly service greeted us with a trio of colourful tapenades: broccoli, tofu and red cabbage. Accompanied by wholemeal crackers and washed down with a shot of hearty soup. Wholesome halos duly polished we followed these appetizers with a ‘meaty’ and filling lentil burger and a crispy and crunchier quinoa burger. Both come with a cholesterol-raising slab of melted cheese, tomato salsa, grated carrot and shredded lettuce. Soy and tofu based dishes also abound as well as spinach

crepes and gnocchi. Granted, not the most imaginative choices, perhaps redolent of vegetarian food served up from the 70s. But if you’re in need of a break from the white bread/carne onslaught this place provides welcome gastric relief. For lubrication refreshing juices and smoothies are a plenty, as well as zippy lemonades. Notable too was the delicious range of organic wines and artisanal beers. If you happen to have room you could try the coconut flan with ice cream for dessert. It’s all about Yin and Yang right? There is a genuine alternative vibe to this healthy hub which is less pretentious than some of its Palermo dwelling peers. www.naturalezasabia.com.ar Balcarce 6454, San Telmo 4300 6454 Naturaleza Sabia - Indoor restaurant

To whet the appetite: a creamy yet smokin’ Babaganoush with freshly baked bread followed by falafel soup (yes!) with Garam Masala. Perfect wholesome winter warmer. From here you can go the brunch route (Eggs Florentine, precision cooked) or orange brioche with avocado and warm brie. Or go for succulent garlic mushroom burger with wedges and fresh salad (with a perkier mix of leaves than the usual flaccid offering). Creative desserts include warm chocolate and aniseed soup with beetroot and raspberry ice-cream, carrot cake and a coconut and lemon crème brulee. Mmmm! To add to this there is a procrastinator’s nightmare array of fresh juices, yoghurt drinks, lemonades, yerba mate drinks and wheatgrass shots… Service was charming and efficient and you can come for breakfast, brunch or dinner. Full marks for ambience, service, flavour and inventiveness. Definitely a place you’ll want to return to. www.hierbabuena.com.ar Caseros 454, San Telmo 4362 2542 HIerba Buena - Indoor Restaurant

HIERBA BUENA If you’re not from the neighbourhood this can seem a bit of a trek but it’s well worth it. A cute little café-restaurant lovingly designed: murals painted in a swirl of inspiring quotes overlook leather bound chairs gathered round striped-clothed tables and a quirky selection of antiques. Not strictly vegetarian, the emphasis is on health and flavour. Everything about this place is well thought out yet delivered in an uncontrived, homely manner.

when in town for a healthy take away or quick bite and is extremely popular with the working set. Everything is made daily to avoid the use of preservatives and flavourings. The focus here is healthy and fresh as opposed to vegetarian so there are smoked salmon bagels amidst the sushi, soup, wraps and lots of salads with optional dressing. In an attempt to lure Porteños off their usual morning habit there is homemade granola with yoghurt and berries. But happily they still offer cookies, alfajores y medialunas if you’re feeling the hangover or in more indulgent mood. Of note is the range of freshly baked bread…whilst not as crunchy or inventive as previous options, they provide a welcome respite from the ubiquitous Bland White Roll. Also worth checking out are their homemade mustards and jams. This is a slick business endeavour with astute marketing and branding aimed to appeal to our body, mind and soul. But enough cynicism! At the end of the day they donate everything they don’t sell and start again fresh the following day. www.greeneat.com.ar Reconquista 690, Micro Centro; Uruguay 703, Micro Centro; Santa Fe 1661, Barrio Norte Green Eat - Indoor

GREEN EAT Whilst it is a good thing this small chain exists in the land of asado, it lacks the charm and intimacy of smaller independent joints. That said it’s convenient

BUENOS AIRES VERDE

BIO CAFÉ

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Perennially busy with locals, our visit coincided with the imminent start of a World Cup match and was unusually quiet. Even then the patient bearded staff were happy to field an annoying battery of questions regarding the provenance of the enticing raw chocolates. Initially reminiscent of a student style vegetarian café, don’t be fooled; this is a sophisticated operation…

With it’s white and lime green walls, bamboo, Buddhas and high ceilings redolent of a yogic shrine this café is a wonderful place to go for a cup of tea, snack, lunch or dinner. If you’ve grown tired of medialunas, tostadas and steaks, head here for an inventive selection of super healthy salads, noodles, pizzas and soups.

If you are still on your quest for more healthy options try these:

Notable is the extensive range of raw and vegan food. In particular you might want to check out the aforementioned array of chocolates, cakes and cookies made with cacao, nuts, seeds and coconut oil. Sublime. They even produce their own vegan mayonnaise and almond milk. In terms of daily specials there are several risotto options, raw salads, tarts and soups. Be warned: options are plentiful, plates huge. Vegans and celiacs are also catered to in the extensive menu which includes several wok based dishes, lasagne, bean burgers, millet burgers, salads and juices. To top it off there is a wellstocked Deli so you can take home a little goodness. Come with empty belly and in a decisive mood! www.bsasverde.com Gorriti 5657 (y Fitzroy), Palermo 4775 9594

Also a rarity in BA is its range of healthy infusions aiding digestion or fighting fatigue. If you’re feeling run down and bedraggled, just perusing the menu will make you feel lighter. That said, it’s not all wheatgrass shots and self-restraint; there is a long dessert menu including tapioca pancakes with red fruits, flans, sesame and ginger ice creams. For something more filling and savoury there are lentil burgers and delicious bruschettas. Or try curried rice or cashew nut pizza washed down with a fig coffee. Homemade wholemeal bread with tapenade is served as standard in a cork bowl. Bike racks and seating outside. You can also purchase some of their niche health products. What’s not to love? A classy original. www.biorestaurant.com.ar Humboldt 2192 (Corner of Humboldt and Guatemala), Palermo 4774 3880

LA CRESTA Bulnes 829, Almagro

LOS SABIOS (VEGAN) Corrientes 3733, Almagro

MAGENDIE Honduras 5900, Palermo TOP GREEN MARKETS

EL GALPÓN MARKET Avenida Federico Lacroze 4171 Wed & Sat, 9am-6pm

MERCADO BONPLAND Bonpland 1660 Tues, Fri & Sat 10am-10pm

Bio - Indoor restaurant Buenos Aires Verde - Menu of the day

HOME DELIVERY OF ORGANIC FRUIT AND VEG TALLO VERDE could not make it easier. No commitment, can pay in cash or on card. Delivery to your home often the next day. www.talloverde.com

As one of the most successful port renovation projects in South America, walking around Puerto Madero today you might be surprised to find out that up until 1999 it wasn’t much more than an area for rusting ships and declining warehouses. The port was built in 1987, but its glory days only lasted 15 years till another port was built in 1911 rendering Puerto Madero a bit useless. The renovation process over the last two decades have however returned Puerto Madero to its shining glory and this is one of the more pleasant spots of the city to spend an afternoon walking around in the sunshine by the river. It is the home of the high rise in BA, but also to many of the more exciting modern architecture of the city. The busy restaurant and bar scene also make it a popular night haunt, and it homes some of the IN FOCUS most sought-after waterfront apartments.

PUERTO MADERO

By Amanda Barnes

ECOLOGICAL RESERVE One of the best places to escape the city in the city, the Ecological Reserve has duck ponds and green fields with the sky scraping skyline of Puerto Madero and the city framing your countryside walk. At 865 acres, this is no small nature reserve and you can amble the nature trails by the Rio de la Plata for a happy couple of hours alongside the many Porteños who come here for a breath of fresh air at the weekends.

FAENA UNIVERSE This is quite rightly called a universe, because Faena has a beautiful hotel, three restaurants, three bars, live music, tango shows, an enormous art gallery, a spa, a pool and a shop. Located in an old wheat mill, this historic building - known as El Porteño - is a prominent feature in Puerto Madero. However don’t let the dockside brickwork appearance mislead you (although these aren’t

Buque Museo Corbeta ARA Uruguay

your ordinary bricks - each brick was imported from Manchester, England), for all the lack of glamour Faena has on the outside, it more than makes up for it on the inside. When fashion designer Alan Faena saved the building from near demolition in the early noughties, he splashed out around $40US million on refurbishment with the help of designer Philippe Starck to create the ‘universe’ that it is today.

RESTAURANT SCENE There are some great restaurants in Puerto Madero which are not only popular by night time but the sunny dockside location make them an ideal lunch spot. Museo de Jamón is possibly the first you’ll come across if you are walking up from San Telmo, as it sits on the very first ‘dique’. With Mediterranean flavours and some of the best jamón crudo in Buenos Aires, this is a great lunch or dinner spot with outside tables to enjoy some seafood or tapas by the

Ecological Reserve

water (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020). Another great spot for lunch - and for a more casual coffee - is I Central Market, with two locations a short walk up. A deli filled with freshly produced dishes and plenty of salads, soups and sandwiches to give any deliberator a run for their money, there is an ample selection to choose from if you dine in and you can also get food on the go as well as stocking up on some cakes, nut mixes and foodie gifts to take home. Bvd. A Villaflor (corner of O. Cossettini) and P. Dealessi (corner of M. Guemes).

OFF TO URUGUAY This is your gateway to Uruguay by water! The Buquebus terminal is in Puerto Madero and runs at least five ferries to Colonia a day (either quick 1 hr journeys, or 3hr journeys) as well as direct ferries (or bus and ferry combos) to the capital, Montevideo and Punta del Este.

Faena Hotel

Women’s Bridge

Museo del Jamón

¡Central Market Fragata Sarmiento Women´s bridge

ARA Uruguay

Buquebus Terminal

BOATS One of the best things about ports are of course the boats. There are

Museo del Jamón

Buquebus Ferry

¡Central Market

Photos taken by Amanda Barnes

If you walk the streets of Puerto Madero, you are likely to see ladies that lunch, also ladies heading on a night out, but there are some other ladies that might require a more detailed look… Take a note of the road signs and you’ll quickly realize every street in Puerto Madero is named after women. This new zone was dedicated to all the important and influential women in Argentina’s history. The biggest nod to the fairer sex in Puerto Madero though is undoubtedly the Women’s Bridge (Puente de la Mujer) at Dock 3. The impressive swing bridge with its iconic single mast with cables was designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and creates a unique shape in the area, acting as a beacon for Puerto Madero, especially when it is lit up at night.

lots of handsome sailboats bobbing in the waters, but there are really two boats that people come to see: Sarmiento and Uruguay. On Dock 4 is Buque Museo Corbeta ARA Uruguay - built in England in 1874, it was taken to Argentina in the same year and served as Argentina’s first training naval ship and is probably the oldest ship in South America. Throughout its history it has been a gunboat, a school ship, and an Antarctic rescue ship among other uses. It was declared a national monument in 1963 and now serves as a museum boat. The other big ship - and also a museum boat - in the water is the Buque Museo Fragata ARA Presidente Sarmiento at Dock 3. Another training ship, the Sarmiento was constructed in the late 1890s and has made six circumnavigations of the globe. Most of the other boats in the waters are private… hang around long enough though and you might just get an invitation on board!

www.amandabarnes.co.uk @amanda_tweeter

LADIES ‘HOOD

Amanda Barnes is a travel and wine writer who has been dreaming of owning a boat ever since her father made her go on 5am fishing trips on vessels more infamous for their ‘vomit-comet’ effect than pollock catching.

Ecological Reserve

Buque Museo Fragata ARA Presidente Sarmiento

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza, pasta and parilla! There is so much more to Buenos Aires’ food scene though and this is a quick glance guide to some of the gastronomy gems you can discover in the city. Don’t forget that Argentineans dine late at night with most restaurants not opening much before 8pm and often still serving till gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm.

$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $

$ $ $ $ $

0 / 75 75 / 150 150 / 225 225 / 300 over 300

Pesos per person for average meal (main + starter/dessert, excluding drinks)

PRICE GUIDE

RESTAURANT GUIDE

CAFÉ SAN JUAN

GUIDO RESTAURANT

Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater and a tattoo aficionado and his unique personal style is reflected in his simple but adventurous dishes. With the menu scrawled on chalkboards and changing on an almost daily basis, this has become a firm favourite of Portenos and tourists so much so that a spin off sister restaurant has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical Argentine dishes with a twist served in a relaxed setting in a retro-style diner.

This intimate low-lit restaurant is a slice of Italy in Palermo. Owner Guido Sosto has Italian roots and this modern bar and restaurant is a second generation take on la bella Italia in Argentina. Photos of Italian starlets line the walls and red-checkered tablecloths, heavy red velvet curtains and ambient lighting create a sea of colour accompanied by smooth jazz (or the resident DJ some nights) which plays in the background competing with the content chatter of regulars and large groups of friends and families. With an interesting and varied wine list (including some foreign bottles!) you’ll find it a tough choice between wine or the happy hour cocktail list, but either way it goes down very easily as you munch on their Italian-style nibbles including marinated vegetables, tasty prosciutto, and every porteños favourite - faina (a chickpea pizza-style starter). The main menu comprises pasta, risotto and proper Italian pizza along with a healthy selection of salads, meat and fish dishes, and the ultimate cheese indulgence: creamy burrata (dressed with pesto, smoked salmon or truffle oil). Highly recommended is gathering a group of friends, ordering a large pizza with a few starters and salads for a family-style feast with a couple good wines. When the nights become warmer you should also check out the pretty patio garden for some dining al fresco. If you are looking for a warming Italian meal and a nice vibe, head to Guido’s.

Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (between Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 43001112. Reservations recommended. Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$ DON JULIO A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don Julio is often on people’s ‘not to miss’ list for visiting the city and with packed tables almost every night you can see why. This traditional restaurant serves perfectly cooked slabs of beef that will please any meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine trained servers will also be able to help you pick out a top choice Malbec to go with your steak. If you order one of the pricier bottles you’ll be asked to sign the bottle with your reflections on the meal to be displayed around the restaurant.

Guido Restaurant, Cervino Boulevard 3943 (near the Zoologico), Palermo. (11) 4802 1262. Evenings Tues – Sat. $$$

Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$ MUSEO DEL JAMON This really is a museum to the glory of jamón, with cured ham legs swinging from the rafters that have come from high quality producers in Argentina and specialized producers from the mecca of jamón - Spain. Imported foodie goods are tough to get your hands on in Argentina, but the Museo have brought in different delicious jamones as well as salami and chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish vino! It’s not just cured meats though - you can feast on seafood, shellfish, homemade pastas and paella, and one of their house

specialties is suckling pig. The modern Puerto Madero location is perfect for a harbor side walk afterwards. Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch & dinner. $$$$$ CASA CRUZ This restaurant has a long history of providing top quality food, and now having been taken back over by sommelier and

foodie Aldo Graziani Casa Cruz is back on top of its game with some of the best steak in town and a more relaxed atmosphere. Perky jazz and an eclectic mix of music set the scene for this upscale yet unpretentious restaurant where you can order delicious cocktails or wine from a list that will take any wine lover at least an hour to pick from. Pick a red though because the best thing here is the steak: juicy with a distinctive, rich flavour hinged with herbal notes and a smoky finish - the secret of how they cook it remains in the kitchen.

Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658 (between El Salvador and Honduras) Palermo (11) 4833 1112. $$$$ BAR DU MARCHE A French-chic bistro with around 50 wines by the glass and a handful of different dishes including foie gras, fish carpaccio and lamb cooked in Malbec. While there is plenty of delectable bites served here, the main focus is on the wine. And not only for Argentine wines but also for a nice (but obviously small) selection of foreign wines. Ideal for winos who like a bit of cheese on the side as they also serve some of the best artisanal cheese in town, and the staff will happily pair it for you. Bar du Marche, Nicaragua 5946 (between Arevelo and Ravignani), Palermo (11) 4778 1050. Lunch & Dinner, Closed Sundays. $$$ BELLAGAMBA If you want a traditional Argentine ‘bodegon’ (tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the most centrally located ones still sending out milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time the same way it did since opening in 1900. Started by a couple Italian immigrants, the motive behind this bodegon is filling food and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere. Cheap, cheerful and authentic. Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833. Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$ SARKIS Serving food as if it were in Armenia, and un-translated menus to match, this is a great spot for those on a budget who want to taste some proper Middle Eastern food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit rushed – this isn’t your spot for a fancy date but it will keep you happy with its keppe, big portions and unpretentious Armen-tinean flavours. Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufré and Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $ COCINA SUNAE Christina Sunae has been in the kitchen since she was 14 learning from her Filipino family and brings her Asian influences to this well-established closed door restaurant. With four courses inspired by the Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia you’ll be treated to some of Christina’s home comforts like Thai shrimp curry, tangy Ube crepes filled, and green tea ice cream. The menu changes weekly but there’s a trademark tickle of spice, and if you’ve been in BA too long you can take home some of her homemade hot sauce to spice up your life! Cocina Sunae, (secret location) Colegiales, (15) 4870 5506, www.cocinasunae.com $$$

SIAMO NEL FORNO Even though Argentina has a huge Italian influence, most of the pizza here can be disappointing with thick, spongy bases, an inch of plastic cheese and an inundation of grease. Siamo nel Forno however makes pizza like you’d expect it in Naples: thin crispy base, with a tasty splash of tomato and only a sprinkle of for formaggio. Cooked in a real wood oven you’ll be crying mamma mia over your margherita. Don’t miss trying the Nutella pizza for dessert. Siamo nel Forno, Costa Rica 5886 (between Ravignani and Carranza) Palermo (11) 4775-0337. Dinner Tue – Sun. $$ SUCRE Voted one of Latin America’s Top 50 restaurants, Sucre is not short of bookings. But if you get a table at this chic and minimalist restaurant in Belgrano, you are in for some of the best fusion food around town. Chef Fernando Trocca blends Mediterranean cuisine with Japanese, Peruvian and Argentine influences to create fresh and inspiring dishes. Using

seasonal produce he is also a big fan of using every part of the renowned Argentine cow so expect to see some less common cuts of meat. For a more pocket friendly experience of Sucre, try out their lunch menu which has 2 courses for $170. Sucre, Sucre 676 (between Figueroa Alcorta and Castañeda) Belgrano (11) 4782 9082. Reservations 24 hours previously online, open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$$$ EL BAQUEDANO While carne is king in Argentina, there are some other carnes that often get neglected while all eyes are on the revered cow. This restaurant celebrates all the other meats of Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas and even alligator. It is Mar del Plata chef Fernando Rivarola who is championing the underside of Argentina’s carnivorous food culture and he does it with great style in a seven course tasting menu or a la carte. Don’t miss the llama carpaccio. El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar), San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues – Sat. $$$$$

BASA This new and alluring basement bar-restaurant serves great cocktails and tasteful tapas in an attractive downtown location where you can get the night started on an intimate, candle-lit table with delightful nibbles and dribbles, and then when the clock strikes midnight you can move on to the dance floor to pick up the rhythm with the live DJs. This spacious lounge bar is set aglow by a large bar at the back which is where you should head for the first call of the night to work your way through their impressive cocktail list. Try out BASA signature drinks such as ‘Te quiero tanto’ (a gin, Gancia and raspberry fizz) and Daisy Salteño (a Torrontes cocktail with Drambuie, grapefruit and mint), stick with the classics or muse at the long list of spirits and Argentine wine. Delve into the original tapas on offer: homemade black pudding disks topped with fried quail’s eggs are an earthy and rich treat; their own tasty interpretation of a Scotch egg is a fun throwback to old-school England; homemade lamb sausages with refreshing tzatziki, chickpeas and mint offer a Greek twist; and roasted baby beets with sharp Photo by Amanda Barnes goats cheese and roasted hazelnuts sprinkled with a touch of dill is another fab combination. Stand out dishes in the main course spread include steak served on the bone with Béarnaise sauce; marinated prawns with fennel, rocket and parmesan; and indulgent Mushroom and Truffle gnocchi with spinach and almonds. If there’s room afterwards there is an interesting line up of desserts which will satisfy anyone’s sweet tooth and the sommelier can help you finish the night with a delicious sticky or one of their many whiskies. This is the perfect place for a sexy date night - the atmosphere is so cozy the waiters bring you a torch to read the menu! Or you can soak up the good bar scene and music as the place fills up during the course of the night. Happy hour 7 - 9pm. DJs play late Wed Sat night. BASA Bar & Restaurant, Basavilbaso 1328 (between Av. del Libertador and Juncal), Centre. (11) 4893 9444. Mon – Fri (lunch & dinner), Sat (dinner only)

El gin artesanal argentino necesitaba una tonica artesanal que le haga compaĂąia.

conocelos a los dos en la casa de su creador tato giovannoni. floreria atlantico - arroyo 872 2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean

BAR & CAFÉ GUIDE The nickname of a ‘city that doesn’t sleep’ doesn’t come from Buenos Aires’ office culture… but rather its addictive nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub. Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout the city your night can start relatively early. There is an exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a selection of different types of bars to get you started. ANTARES

BAR EL FEDERAL CELEBRATES 150 YEARS

If you are in search of real ale, then Antares is one of the safest options with a nationwide chain of micro breweries. With a couple locations around the city, you can stop in for a honey beer or cream stout in San Telmo, Las Canitas or in their flagship in Palermo where the impressive 10ft tall kegs hang over the bar giving it a trendy New York feel to it. As well as different pints, and even a beer tasting option, Antares serve hearty bar food all evening.

If you walk around San Telmo, you can’t miss this landmark bar, which has sat proud on the corner of Peru and Carlos Calvo since 1864. Bar El Federal began its story as a small pulperia (a typical local store) selling groceries and household items, herbal remedies and hearty pengüinos (penguin-shaped jugs) of wine. The popular corner spot soon attracted ladies of the night, and boobs and booze became far more lucrative and it turned into a brothel-bar. That tale turned sour when the beautiful daughter of the owner was murdered by a jealous suitor one night, and so El Federal returned to being a more savory café. Since then it became a poet’s hangout and has been immortalized in many a tango song. Nowadays Bar El Federal is a popular spot with locals and tourists for its many fine brews (they make their own craft beer!), authentic Argentine cuisine and its special vermouth cocktails served with tapas. To celebrate its 150-year anniversary there are also a number of special events happening this winter and spring. Till December you can see photographer Sergio Gasali’s exhibition ‘Mirada Ferderal’ which is a black and white series of photographs all taken from different tables within the bar. Throughout August and September there are also numerous and broadcasts from within the bar (you can find out more info at www.barelfederal.com.ar), and the celebrations culminate on 9 November with a free outdoor music concert with different bands including the Tom Waitsed Band from 3pm till 7pm. There’s more reason than ever to discover some of Buenos Aires’ beautiful and historical bars! Bar El Federal, Carlos Calvo 599 (corner of Peru), San Telmo (11) 4300 4313. Daily 8am till very late.

Antares: Armenia 1447, Palermo; Arevela 2876, Las Canitas; Bolivar 491, San Telmo. Daily from 7pm till late. CAFÉ MARGOT A real treasure, Café Margot has a history stretching back to 1904 and a step into this bar/café feels like a step back into history with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed here each morning and their homebrew is served throughout the week, as is decent bar food. The waiters will rave about their turkey – which is served in countless sarnies here – and actually claim to have invented the turkey sandwich (just go along with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and step back into a different century. Café Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am till late. GRAN BAR DANZON One of the stalwarts of the bar scene, Danzon has been one of BA’s happy hour favourites since forever and everyone stays throughout the night for the good food, cool music and beautiful people. A bustling atmosphere and usually packed with people it is above ground level in the Recoleta neighbourhood. Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161 (between Santa Fe and Arenales), Recoleta, (11) 4811 1108, open daily from 7/8pm

Photos by Sergio Gasali PicS

PUERTA UNO

SR DUNCAN

ALSINA

Once a secret bar, the secret is pretty much out now about Puerta Uno but it still has that underground vibe as you turn up to the unmarked door and should remember the owner’s names – Robertino and Marcelo – just in case. Once in, the bar opens up to a series of patios with evolving decoration and a DJ keeping the atmosphere buzzing. Cocktails are the order of the night and the barmen do some convincing sake and fruit potions.

A converted mansion with a penchant for swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is a handsome live music venue where you’ll get tango, jazz, swing and anything else that has continued to sound good over the last few decades. Even the prices hark back to a time before.

It is fitting that BA’s best club is practically in a palace. With a capacity of up to 1500, Alsina is its own principality of party. The main floor is filled with a throbbing mass of clubbers will the upstairs balconies offer a little bit of respite and a good people spotting platform looking over the crowd. Alsina attracts international names and hosts a party every night of the week.

Puerta Uno, Juramento 1667 (corner of Arribeños), Belgrano (Barrio Chino). (11) 4706 1522. Tues – Sat after 9pm. FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE If you are serious about your coffee and need a real bean fix, Full City Coffee House is one of the better coffee joints in town. Whether you like it strong and black, with just a lágrima (literally just a drop) of coffee in a pot of frothy milk, or you want a Cappuccino like you’d get back home, the well trained barristas know what they are doing. Packed with coffee fiends and freelancers, there is good wifi here and a stack of magazines and newspapers as well as a decent Colombian-style breakfast to while away an hour or two. They also run private coffee classes. Full City Coffee House, Thames 1535, Palermo Soho. (11) 4833 6774. Tues – Sun. FLORERIA ATLANTICO

La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832 (between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo, (11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues – Sat. Check out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings. LA CIGALE One of the best music bars in the city centre, La Cigale has a bit of je ne sais quoi. Apart from the trendy French theme, they hit it right on the head with their live music which ranges from electro nights to vintage spinning, as well as a space upstairs for bands. If you get there early, indulge in the daily happy hour from 6 till 10pm. La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (corner Tucuman), Centre (11) 4893 2332, Mon – Fri from 6pm, Sat from 9.30pm. LIVERPOOL Although the thought of Beatles paraphernalia might make you cringe, this Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some pretty decent live bands. With a proper stage equipped for musicians, most nights you get a band play and afterwards it turns into a nightclub.

Entering through an afterhours florist-cumwine shop-cum-record store has to be one of the more unique entrances for a bar, and that’s the only way to get into this new bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by a top mixologist and a super sommelier, the drinks here are to die for of course, as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to the immigrant tribes of Argentina, you’ll find cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol, Spanish sherry, French cognac and English Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those who really know their booze.

Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11) 5355 7632. Mon – Sat nights.

Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313 6093. Mon – Sat, 10am – 3am

Verne Cocktail Club, Medrano 1475 (corner of Costa Rica), Palermo (11) 4822 0980. Daily from 9pm till late.

GIBRALTAR

CAFÉ TORTONI

With a name like Gibraltar, you’d assume this is aimed at expats and you’d be right, but this English-style pub is remarkably popular with locals too. The bar menu is comfortfood pub grub including fish and chips, bangers and mash, and homemade curries. Best of all, they serve food all day from 12 till 2am meaning you can soak up the extra pints at any hour while the cider, beer and wine keep flowing till 4am each night. If you want cocktails, look somewhere else, but if you want a proper pub in San Telmo – the Gibraltar is it.

One of the great classic cafes of Buenos Aires, Café Tortoni has been the meeting point for many great minds during its 160 year history including the likes of Jorge Luis Borges, Federico Garcia Lorca and even Albert Einstein. With every square inch of wall covered in photos and memorabilia, walking into Café Tortoni is like a step back in history. As well as serving the classic coffee, orange juice and croissants by waiters dressed in a shirt and tie, there is a tango hall at the back where you can catch daily shows.

Gibraltar, Peru 895 (corner of Estados Unidos), San Telmo. (11) 4361 5310. Daily, midday till late.

Gran Café Tortoni, Av. de Mayo 829, Monserrat. (11) 4342 4328. Daily from 8.30am till late.

VERNE COCKTAIL CLUB As the name suggests, this is a bar dedicated to creative cocktails. Opened last year, this Palermo bar is already drawing in good crowds who come for the neat twists on old classics. If you really have a hangover wish for the morning, try their absinth tasting menu.

Alsina, Adolfo Alsina 940 (between Bernando de Irigoyen and Tacuari), Montserrat (11) 4331 3231. Daily from midnight. ASIA DE CUBA This nightclub still remains one of the places to ‘be seen in’ and a bustling boliche in Puerto Madero. After over a decade on the nightclub scene it is no longer the hot ticket it used to be, but Asia de Cuba still appeals to a large after office crowd and a healthy mix of tourists who love the waterfront location, decent drinks and the opportunity to dress to the nines. There is also a sushi restaurant if you want to graze on something before hitting the dancefloor. During the weekdays it is also open as a lunchtime restaurant, with a Happy Hour 4pm till 8pm. Asia de Cuba, Pierina Dealessi 750 (corner of Macacha Guemes), Puerto Madero. (11) 4894 1328. Nightclub open Wed – Sat from 9pm. SKY BAR The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky Bar is on the 13th floor of Hotel Pulitzer in the city centre making it ideal for reaching some cooler Summer air and enjoying a view over the night city lights. A popular ‘after office’ spot and also ideal for downing a couple cocktails at sunset, although the DJ plays well into the night too. Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily after 5pm.

ADVERTISE

HERE! admin@playgroundba.com

PLAYGROUND T IPS If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground that is Buenos Aires Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses aren’t cash friendly, you’ll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at www.sube.gob.ar), which you can charge at most metro stations. You’ll find a helpful bus route planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus you’ll quickly find yourself critiquing and praising the bus drivers’ personalized décor and memorabilia at the front of the bus. The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day. Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days. Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate the personality of porteños and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you otherwise might not. Do however take care and don’t walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion, Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing flashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public. There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your airport right to avoid missing a flight! Also take care with connections as many carriers will make you change airports for ongoing flights so give yourself time to go from one to another. Aeroparque (mainly domestic flights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo. Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www. minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Perú,Av. Belgrano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there. If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting www.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels! The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simpleminded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves. Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you find yourself in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.

C Ca arl lvoos

nd ep en de nc ia

o éx ic

ez to Av .B el gr Hi an pó o lito yr igo ye n

Ve n

Av. R ivada v

nB osc o

o en or M rigo yen

Av .R iva da via

nB osc o

oy ólit

Hip da via

B M art it o Av D íazV remlo él é ez

oy en ig

Ba rto lom T Dote. é m Gr M in al. itr g e Sa o Ju Pe an rm ró ie n nt o

Av .R iva

ob rd Có

ua y

Av .C

ór

Vi am

Pa r

a an t

lo ar ce M

Ar e

Av .S s ale en

Q ui

Ve ne zu ela

Av .B el gr an o

a si n Al lfo Ad o

ól

Hi p

e La va ll

án um Tu c

Fé

lo ce ar M

gu ay

M de arc Av Al elo ve T. .S ar an ta Fé

ca l Ju n

oy o Ar

rtador

e Av. Lib

s. Pre Av.

o Ill rtur

Pa ra

la ue

Ag r

elo Ag r

or en o

T. d

Al ve

ba do ór

Av .C

ba do ór

Pa r

cil

A Ro v. D jas r R

elo

éx ico M

ela

e án um

Tu c on te

e on t

Av .C

ua y

ór

ran

ezu Ve n

m é T Dote. m Gra ing l. Sa o Jua Pe n rm ró ien Av n to .C or rie nt es

B M art itr olo e

Vi am án

Vi am

e te

Vi am

E Unstad ido os s

Es tad Av os . In Un de pe ido nd s en cia

o xic

Mé

a igo ye n Yr lito pó

da via

iva

Av .R

m é T Dote. m Gra in l. Sa go J rm Pe uan ien ró Av n to .C or rie nt es

La va ll

da via

B M arto itr lo e La va ll

um án

Av .C

Pa ra

o lit pó Hi

Av .R m é

Tu c

ito

Es t ad os Un Av . In ido de s pe nd en cia

sin Al lfo Ad o

ay o e Av .d

a sin Al lfo

Ad o

da via iva Av .R

Av .I

rto Pr im Ca o rlos Ca lvo

Hu mb e

Pr im o rto

Ca rlo sC alv o

Hu mb e

Ve ne zu Av ela .B elg ra no

éx

igo ye n

en or M

iva

o en

Hi p Av ólito .d Y e rig M o ay ye o n

da via iva

Ba rto l DoTte M om m .G itr é ing ra e l . o Ju Pe a ró n Sa n rm Av ien .C to or rie nt es

V O icto ca r m ia po

jica

s Mu

Illia rturo

A Pres.

artíb

de Ma Th Sá riqu omnc ita pshez on

T Gurini ev dad ar a

ert

San M

Em la ma Ba de rra

Ayacucho

Posada

Lib

Peña

Av. Callao

Patio Bullrich sadas

Montevide

M Gü ac emach es a

Av. Alvear ar Av. Alve

la Manue Sáenz

Av .B e lg

Pa vó n ico

Ca rlo

ez ue Av la .B elg ra no

Av .B elg

A Al dol sin fo a

la ue

ez o en or

Hu m be rto

ico

Ve n ico

Ve n ra no

Av .R

Tu c

Pr im o

Ju a an

ile éx

ile Ch éx M

la ue ez

Av .B elg

Ve n i

Cementer de la Recoleta

Pres. Av. M. Quintana

nc Ju

Rodriguez

C Lo aro re la nz in

Guido

rtador

erald

rano

M Güaca emch esa

Vicente López

e Av. Lib

l. Belg

IN baso il RT A sav M Ba

ión itu c st

Au t op ist

Av .S

lvo Es Av tad .I o nd s U ep n en ido s de nc ia

Ca s

E e p U sta en nid do de os s nc ia nd

Av .I

ico éx M

aV illa en

H Pr um im b o ert

rlo o Pr im

C Caarlo lvo s

n Ju a an Av .S

n Ju a an

rto be m Hu

Ch i

flo

s C alv Es o tad Av o s .I nd ep en de nc ia Ch ile

5 Av .2

n ió ch a

tit uc ns Co

ba m ba ch a

Co Av .S

Ca s rlo Ca

Au to pis ta

n Co n

rw ay -

oto

A de v. J u Pa Gar an ay vo n

ay o-

Av .B ras il

-A ut op i

lvo

M oto rw ay -

de G

Pa vó

Av .J ua n

gü

Ec ha

Pe d

Gara y n de

Av. J ua

-M ot or w ay

ay o M

Av .S

Av. Jua nd eG ara y

o ed

ara y

n Pa vó

ara y

Av .B ras

ros

Av. Ca se

Av. Bra si

eros

Ju a

Av. General Las Heras

rtid

RETIRO / BUS STATION

rge

ntin

naga

Azcué

Av. Callao

uru rib E.U

ho uc

A M zuc aiz en an a i

aga

ac Ay

sé . Jo

nín Ju

s Pre

uén

Pena

José Andrés Pacheco de Melo

l Ju

ro Gra

ida

ntá

P Av.

Azc

n Ju

rea Lar

H Pr um im b o ert

ón

Az Az uce uc na en Vi a V llaf illa lor flo r

zP eñ

French

ao all

.C Av

te vid

Aroyo

Carlo

J r an Je cuado E

én

ob Ri

P Ey etro le na

Inc lán

Sa lc

Inc

lán

ayo -

au de

ovie mb re

15 de N

Av. C

Av. 25 de M

D Finr. En och riqu ie t e to ase ros

C Caatul sti o llo

Ro n

s Pa to Lo s

Us pa llat

C Casatulo tillo Av. B rasil

Av. Am Av. Cas

ren

yrr ue .P Av

Av .2

ero

ü Ag

cho

rea Lar

Az D

Fé

nale

Are

ua y

.9 Av

Flor

Padre

u l. L Graorbe N a Ch r

Ro d

ná

ra Pa

A LT

a ve

.S Av

Ta lc

RETIRO

o Gilaard i Gil rd

Av. A

uis

Pa ra

ll Ga

a Esm

Cruce

ald

es aur nJ Jea r do ua e Ec gn r n ulo e dó Bour M yrre S ue .P Av

N Ó D RE ón YR ed

s Pa

R LL

E yrr PUue .P Av

EU CA

O RL

Av. Santa Fé

E Es nca cu rn rra ac ió

P E. res Ur . J ibu os ru é

rta

ald

án

rig

rde

d T.

rie or

.C Av

uc ho

Ur ug

ac ha

de e llo ez nt a Ga ncham Sá ust B ro üe Ag

Ju li

VA LA

Reserva ecológica

or rit

le Va

Gó

zP eñ

ua y

a lay Ze Museo casa e Carlos Gardel l l a av

Ay ac

all

te vid

Ur ug

Ta lc

ín nt

st o . ng ral mi . G Do e Tt uanón J er to P ien rm G Sa tín len Va r .Co Av

ín

Pa r

llin

am Vi

Ju n

rig

av o

Av.

Av .C

Centro Cultural Borges M

én

ran

c Tu

ín

zP en

P E. res Ur . J ibu os ru é

Teatro Colón

Av .9

Ro d

tin

ua y

Ju n

O FL

ríg

Ur ug

có

J Saerón lgu im er o Bu o lne s

te vid

Pa r

rre

uc ho

oB arr

Av .M

S de ánc Lo he ria z

aip

V O

ald

aip 25 ist ú a Av de .L M Fl Ol ina or ea ay M g id nd o a C De an a ro Luna so os ale Al Av Park se s em .E nt si du Bu ini Av c a h r PUERTO Ju . A do ar d l Ma MADERO ana icia Re der Av. M M o co Lea ar or n ndr iel ea o A quis aG u Ju lem ta de an o A J v. E rri aM Pi us ti er to d O uar an lga ina do so Av. Av. d Ma Co De Av el Int .A der ns ale os .H ntá o en ss Ita ern r lian tid tin i án a o i Arg M. s Gir en tin alt a

ac ha

nal Diagoe Nort

Obelisco

Gas

Pa s

Ta lc

P E. res Ur . J ib os ur é u ín

Ro d

str

Ju n

SAN NICOLÁS

ue Zá

Re c

én

Raw

Ay ac

zP en

uc ho

Av. Bo ed

Ag ü

Ay ac

ua y

a eña enz P

all

ríg

Ur ug

PE A

aip

oq Av. R Fl or id a

s Pa

EN M

ald

Pa s

Av .C

te vid

Pa r

Ta lc

rre

O AY

PUERTO MADERO PAG. 38

LA BOCA

Ro d

iel

Palacio del Congreso

Plaza Congreso M

La las gun Ga a de vio tas

ch a Lyn Mart Av. Av. de Int los La .H los guna ern Italia no Co de án s pio M. s Gir Lag alt los una Pa de tos

Ju a

TE CA

b Rá . la rte Av No Catedral Anglicana

Ju s Ju to a Fragata na Sarmiento Mar

Pa in

ida

rv all

C lo om s b Po a Av zo te .E s de nt re Rí os

Casa Rosada

Pa in rtha e Maalotti S

Ju li

iza

Pa s

lat

Centro Cultural Kónex

Ju a

ló

rí

ale

Az op a Av rdo .I ng .H Av .A ue lic rg ia o M or ea Puente de u la Mujer de

a E Av. Pres. J. A. Roc P

Ba l Av cars .P e as eo Co

ZA A YO PL MA E

Ju s

fe n

P Sa res en . L z P ui eñs n a Jo sé

ch a

lom Av br .B es oe do

ón

lón

iva

rti

Ta c

Pe r

Bo l

1º

Av .P as

Li m a Av .9 de

ch in

fe n

Vi rr

No vie

all rv

MONSERRAT

lis

av ed

ón

S de an l E tiag st o er Sa o lta

iva

SÉ

Pe r

Bo l

P Sa res en . L z ui Pe s Sa ña n Jo sé

S de ant l E iag st o Sa er o lta

tam

arc Av a .J uju y

isi

ch a

C lo om s b Po a Av zo te .E s de nt re Rí os

lis

rti

ini

S de án Loche ria z

L Rioa ja Fu ne s

ch in

Pa s

Vi rr

ría

lab

Lanteri

eta

lic

Ju li

rí

rv all

Plaza Dorrego

ina

Az op

Ta c

SAN TELMO

Av. Balc a Pa se rse oC oló

Av .A

iva

lta

Bo l

av ed

a st

RÍ

rí

Ta c

Rí

al.

ale

ey L

iza

oja

ay uv a

Vir r

ste

lis

có

Av .L

uñ

árm

Bo c

Gr a

arc

Av .J uju y

al.

Ba rro

tam

Fu n

rrillo Ca

Pe r

Juli o

Av .E

2 No4 d vie e m

SAN CRISTOBAL

ch a

Alcort

Pie

Lim

Av. 9

Rin

P Sa res en . L z P uis Sa eñ n a Jo sé

Av .J uju y

ath

Pic hin

rti

Vi rr

ancio

m Av. A

ave d

iza

S deánc Lo hez ria

oja

Pa sc

ino

Fu n

the

fie uria ld Pic C ga BARRACAS hin Av om An ch . E ba cho a nt te ris re de R l Perd íos os riel Po So zo lis s Baig orri Vi Cerrey rv all Av os P .E Sares. nt re en Lu CONSTITUCIÓN Rí z P is Sa os loCom e n s P ba ña Dr. Ra So Jo mó oz te lis sé n os de Sa Vi n Ce rre de tia y rv l E go all ste P os Sa res ro en . L z P uis eñ Sa a n Jo sé

al.

Vi rr

Av .B oe

int

2 No4 d vie e m

Jo s

ert

Alb

Oruro

Luz

ruz

nes

Av .J uju y

PARQUE PATRICIOS

n Fu

él

cha

Pic hin Sta

Av .V

the

BOEDO

Dea

juy

ert

Av. Ju

Alb

arc

B M art itr olo e

Av .C

tam

as ero s

Ga rro

Lo sP at

Us pa llat ia

lon

rio

tro D Pe r. Pr dro of. Ch u

ste

teb

No vie 24 m de Gr br al. e Ur qu iza

ana

anc io A lco rta

Fu n

nie

cl Av. Chi

M Ga anue rcía l

lon

la Arrio

Av .J ua

Ca tul oC Av. a Bra sil stillo

La va r

rdo lG alla

nge

Av. Juan V. Justo

Mac h

Av. Paúl Sc alabrini Ortiz

ado

Av. Án gel Gal lardo

ador

be l a Is a fant . In Av rta Av. Figueroa Alco

Av. Dor reg o

Clay

us Ag

Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sivori

nv ld á

Av. Dorrego

Velódromo Municipal

rini Ortiz

s ra du

on lva

r Sa

ca Ri a st

brini Ortiz

Av. Paul Sc ala

Virasogo

H El

gone ldo Lu

LINEA A LINEA B LINEA C LINEA D LINEA E LINEA H

llo

ti S. Cas

s. R Av. Pre/ INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT JORGE NEWBERY

nde

l Israé

de o ad st Av .E ba do ór Av .C

s ra du on H

Go oy Crud z

atienzo

Av. Ira o

ewberr

brini Ortiz

Jorge N

lovenia

jamín M

a de Es

Tte. Ben

rt Av. Libe

Repúblic

Aráoz

Av. Paul Sc ala

Julián Alvarez

Jerónimo Salguero

Austria

Arévalo

asset ral. ega y G Av. Gle o Av. Ort Inda siut Chena

Arce

Laprida

LAS CAÑITAS

a Campo

Hipódromo Argentino

g Av. Dorre

Agüero

err y

Av. Luis M arí

tín

Jorge Newb

ich

ien Av. Sarm

urs e To iz o Ort mp Ave. Oca d

Salguero

d rtin

re Mau

l Manue Gral.av io N. S

ullr

Jerónimo

San

Ca ll

ros

mín Matien

ta Fé

n Av. Sa

te B

Olle

Tte. Benja Santos Dumont

n Concepció Arenal

Av. Dorrego

den

ruz

Av. Pueyrre dó

rr y wbe e Ne Jorg

Av. Paul Scalab

Po to si T D te. om G in ral go . J Pe ua ró n n

Vé le z íaz

ivao Cang allo

Lezic a

ica

Av .D

r os

ía Garc oro Teod ze Lacro erico

ed Av. F

Olle

ur Ma

Po to In ca si

o go

Campo Argentino de Polo

t on t

Paseo del Rosedal

Planetario Galileo Galilei

nza /

Carra

cto Viadu

re or

clair Sin

oy C

God

Sta. Justo Oro Fray aría de M

Av. Sarmien

Cavia

Av. Pu eyrred ón

Le z

Av. R ivada v

rreg

ten

a úblic Repla India de

ur Lafin a úblic Rep e Siria Árab he rtec Uga

ro M

o Av. Le

Pre

Arévalo

In Av.

aría

la Paz

Zapata

.D Av

o Huerg

Av. Cerviño

Av. Beli s a r

ro Illia s. Artu

ta Fé

Báez

Av. Pres. Ped

Ciudad de

Dr. Emilio Ravignani

Ángel Justiniano Carranza

Bonpland

A IT

Av. Sarmien

Siria

rini alabOrtiz

Sc Av.

Jeró nimo Salguero

L. Silvgiogieri Ru

Amenábar

. San / Av

PALERMO

rtado

ibe Av. L

Monumento de lo Españoles

Alcorta

o Av. D

Cramer

Dem

Av. Co lom bi

Av. Figueroa

Arévalo

COLEGIALES Conesa

a Árabe

Juncal

Gral. Ramón Freire

Zapiola

ía Campos

Predio La Rural

artinez

rique M

Gral. En Conde

PALERMO HOLLYWOOD

Fitz Roy

V. Just

Cruz

Repúblic

Antonio Beruti

Ca Av.

mas

Tho

Capitán

a anz arr n oC Ancó uct d Via Av. Luis Mar

Humboldt

Godoy

Av. Santa Fé

ni Dr. Emilio Ravigna

Paraguay

rtad Libe

Ángel Justiniano Carranza

Paraguay

a. sto Stro Fray Ju O María de

err

Guatemala

ell Cab

Av. C a s a

b ew eN

orr

Guatemala

Jardín Japonés

ostane

g Jor

.D Av

Soler

Av. V. Juan

Soler

bild

ó Av. C

Voltaire

eyra

Jardín Zoológico

Paseo Alcorta

igado C

s Santo ont Dum

Concepción Arenal

Leiva

Costa Rica

Uriarte

Thames

Bonpland

Fitz Roy

Darwin

Costa Rica

Darregu

Humboldt

n V. Justo ua .J Av

Godoy Cruz

Darwin

Uriarte

Thames

El Salvador

Nicaragua

Parque 3 de Febrero (Bosques de Palermo)

Parque Manuel Belgrano

Humboldt

Darwin

Thames

Serrano

Malba

El Salvador

rrez

Av.

Castex Gelly

ujica

amón

Gurruchaga

iaz

el D

Buln

ron

Co Av.

Tagle

Agüero

Austria

Museo de motivos Argentinos

ael Obl Av. Raf

a er

viño Ser Av. gui . Se F n Jua

Carlo

Serrano

rtiz Av. O ampo de Oc urst Billingh

e hez d Sánc mante Busta

Cantilo ig Av. F

Padre

Alcorta

Gurruchaga

Buln

Bollini

or Museo Nacional Bellas Artes orta a Alc uero

lle

Hospital Fernández ello Cab

PALERMO CHICO eroa Av. Figu

Gorriti Honduras

uitié

ía G

ras

dor

rtad

Malabia

LA ES

íaz

naga

Guido

erta

Dr. R. Leven e e Lib Av.

Las

Armenia

A BU

Vidt LN

ral

rge Luis Bo rges

nel D

urst

oro Av. C

Billingh

Sánchez de Bustamante

Austria

Agüero

Larr

Azcué

ementerio de la Recoleta

Juncal

G Av.

a lL ra .G v A Museo Evita

José Antonio Cabrebra

Honduras

Charcas

Av. Santa Fé Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays

n Jua

ndrés José AMelo o de Pachec

Lib Av.

Gurruchaga

Charcas

Av. Cn

Girib

a rdob

s lvare Av. A

a el. Niceto Veg

Nicaragua

Guatemala

Güemes

Pena

Hospital Rivadavia Av. General Las Heras

Armenia

Aráoz

Julián Alvarez

Vidt

imo Jerólgnuero Sa

Bulnes

ala

Soler

Paraguay

cal Jun

Juncal

French Pena

Armenia

Costa Rica

Del Sign

San Mateo

Arenales

Plaza Palermo Viejo

Nicaragua

French

Malabia

Anchorena

Laprida

Antonio Beruti

RECOLETA

Malabia

Aráoz

Julián Alvarez

Lavalleja

ón sc Ga

Gallo

Juncal

Hospital Alemán

Güem

Av. Santa Fé

Ant

edó

r eyr

Pu Av.

nale

Are

ti eru io B

PALERMO SOHO

Cabrebra

Plaza Serrano

el Díaz

Charcas

Güemes

Av. Cnel. Niceto Vega

one

rlon

Cha

Av. Córdoba

Honduras

m ate

CHACARITA

Castillo

El Salvado

Av. Forest

ti Rose

Loyola

a Av. Córdob

Gorriti

Av. Fore st

a Frag

Aguirre

VILLA CRESPO

José Antonio

García Gral. L. Norberto

silla ucio an l. L o M Graorbert N as Charc

gle

oba

órd Av. C

Graal.n emo Ju regorio L G vara e u G

Vera

Juan Ramírez de Velazco

Lerma

Argañaras

lgu

on Av. Cor

Paraguay

Charcas

Aráoz

de Israel

re ba

in Pr Sa

es ur Ja r an Je cuado E y ua

Soler

ara

do Av. Esta

m La y ta Ya

rida

la nsil Hospital Ma de niños

lazco

Villarroel

Castillo

Lerma

vo Bra

írez de Ve

Loyola

tes

ien

orr

C Av.

Av. Guzmán Av. Corrientes

Aguirre

Castillo

ón

rio

Lap

ü Ag

Soler

gu Para

Museo Xul Solar

Lavalleja

EL G O N D A AR LL

r Je

lne

urs

lin

llo

Vera

Juan Ram

o ni a to br An re i é Cab rit s or Jo G

ed .M Av

Bil

rit or

o sé ni ra Jo ntobreb A a C

Julián Alvarez

ór

.C Av

Av. Corrientes

Jufré

Otero

Av. Guzmán

Camargo

Drago

lgu

uis

orrie

Iturri

Jufré

a ro ue Fig

án

c Tu

s nte

Caldas

Rodney

Loyola

in st

alle Lav

le Pa

ne o av

ieja ia V

ard

Vera

Aguirre

e ad uñ Ac

ón

l Bu o

Padilla

Camargo

ti n

C Av.

r ed .M Av

r Je

ari

ll Ga

aca

Luis María

Janeiro

is nc

e rri

.Co Av

ón sc Ga

ín

g Bo

ejía

a Fr

. Av

óm

le Va

re ba m La

e rri Co

ALMAGRO

t o . ing om

Río de

a uñ Ac a co ero ci s u an Fig Fr de

to ien

arne Av. W

y ta Ya

rg Av. P at ri c ia s A

Ram o

n so

có

ran

s Ga

Ja n

in Pr

w Ra

v. M

Muñecas

cón

Av. Á

Gas

Martinez Rosas

rn Wa Av.

Av. Acoyte

Artu

Olaya

Hidalgo

Murillo

CABALLITO

Est

ha ac

br Fr M Leop ose oldo ti A. Mare chai

ro G uretc he Av .D ía zV él ez

Yerb al E

Rí

k an

Bo Av go .A tá ve lla Qu e ne rand da ies Av Av. A .D vella ía ned Escri zV a b an o él ez Dr. J u an Felip e Ara ngu re

Raw so

lin

y Jorge Newberr

Pring le

Yata y

pic hue

Santos Dumo

Cam

Concepción Arenal

lat

Av. Dorrego ntonio Susini el. A Cn Fitz Roy

Humboldt

v. L

GREEN SPACES

WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES BARRIO NORTE Anima Peña 2665 BOEDO Café Margot (Los Notables) Boedo 857 CENTRO Alvear Art Hotel Suipacha 1036 Amerian Buenos Aires Park Hotel Reconquista 699 Casacalma Hotel Suipacha 1015 Celta Bar Sarmiento 1701 Complejo Tango Avda Belgrano 2608 Dante Boutique Hotel Cochabamba 514 Design CE Hotel de Diseño Marcelo T de Alvear 1695 Design Suites Buenos Aires M. T de Alvear 1683 Dolmen Hotel Suipacha 1079 Down Town Matias Reconquista 701 Floreria Atlantico Arroyo 872 Gran Bar Danzon Libertad 1161 Gran Hotel Hispano Avda de Mayo 861 Hotel Boutique Bonito Buenos Aires Chile 1507 Jack the Ripper Libertad 1275 La Fresque Hotel Boutique Avda de Mayo 984 Le Vitral Buenos Aires Ayacucho 277 Mayflower Suites Paraná 720 Museo de la Ciudad Defensa 219 Play Juncal 1472 Plaza San Martín Suites Suipacha 1092 Recoleta Hostel-Hostel Int. Libertad 1216 Reconquista Garden Esmeralda 675 Rooney´s Hotel Boutique Sarmiento 1775 Serena Hotel Libertad 1617 SF Suites Avda Santa Fe 1188 Tanguero Boutique Hotel Suipacha 780 MONSERRAT Aldo´s Moreno 372 Bebop Club Moreno 364 Café Tortoni Av. De Mayo 825 Reino del Plata Hipolito Yrygoyen 647 Two Hotel Buenos Aires Moreno 785 PALERMO/CAÑITAS 248 Finisterra Báez 248 PALERMO 1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B Malabia 1555 5411 Soho Hotel Spa Thames 1565 Amasoho Hostel Darragueyra 2317 Atempo Design Hotel Arévalo 1564 Awwa Suites & Spa Lafinur 3370 Ayres de Español Gurruchaga 1851 Ba Sohotel J. Luis Boges 2205 Back in BA Hostel El Salvador 5115 Bar Du March Nicaragua 5946 Be Hollywood Hunboldt 1726 Blue Soho Hotel El Salvador 4735 Bobo Hotel Guatemala 4882

Boho Rooms Uriarte 1389 Bolivia Gurruchaga 1581 Bolivia Nicaragua 4908 Cabrera Garden Boutique Gest House Cabrera 5855 Divina Bolivia Costa Rica 4670 Fierro Hotel Boutique Soler 5862 Francesco Restaurant Soler 5598 Giramondo Hostel Bar Guemes 4802 Godoy Cruz Suites Godoy Cruz 2459 Grand Café Basavilbaso 1340 Guido Blvd. Cerviño 3943 Home Buenos Aires Hotel Honduras 5860 Hostel Suites Palermo Charcas 4752 Hotel Boutique Purobaires Niceto Vega 4788 Ilum Hotel El Salvador 5726 Jardín Escondido Gorriti 4746 Krista Hotel Bomplant 1665 L´Hotel Palermo Thames 1562 Le Pain Quotidien Armenia 1641 Legado Mítico Buenos Aires Gurruchaga 1848 Lo de Joaquin Alberdi J. Luis Borges 1772 M Palermo El Salvador 5783 Malambo Thames 2098 Maria Félix Guatemala 5200 Mark´s Deli El Salvador 4701 Mine Hotel Boutique Gorritti 4770 Miravida Soho Wine Bar Darragueyra 2050 Moving Bike Muu Lecheria Armenia 1810 Noa Noa Lofts (tbn Hotel Babel) Bonpland 1549 Nuss Buenos Aires Soho El Salvador 4916 Olaya Humboldt 1550 Olivetti Rep. Arabe de Siria Y Cerviño Own Palermo Hollywood Jose Cabrera 5556 Pain & Vin Gorriti 5132 Palermitano Hotel Uriarte 1648 Palermo Place Nicaragua 5865 Palermo Suites Apart & Suites Fray Justo S. Maria 2529 Palermo Tower Charcas 5955 Pepe Cantero (Main Store) Honduras 4845 Pepe Cantero (Outlet) Girruchaga 721 Pollock Hotel Boutique (lyns) Costa Rica 4754 Prodeo Hotel Lounge Gorritti 5374 Q´Arte Galleria Humbolt 1981 Rendez Vouz Hotel Bonpland 1484 Solar Soler B&B Soler 5676 The Glu Hotel Godoy Cruz 1733 Torrecillas Soho Godoy Cruz 1655 Tre Design Apartments Migueletes 1773 Ultra Hotel & Bistro Gorriti 4929 Urban Station Palermo Soho El Salvador 4588 Urbano Parrilla Honduras 5499 Vain Boutique Hotel Thames 2226

Vitrum Hotel Gorriti 5641 Voulez Bar Cerviño 3802 Watt Market El Salvador 4622 PUERTO MADERO Asia de Cuba Pierina Dealessi 750 Ayres de Patagonia Alicia Moreau de justo 1798 Bar del PuentePierina Dealessi y Gorritti Blakke Juana Manso 1580 Cabaña Las Lilas Alicia M. de Justo 516 Cuccina D´Onore Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768 Cucina Donore Alicia M. de Justo 1768 DF Mexican Olga Cossettini 1611 El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel) Martha Salotti 445 El Único Bar Juana Manso 1601 Estilo Campo Alicia M. De Justo 1840 Faena Hotel UniverseMartha Salotti 445 Freddo Juana Manso 1570 ICentral Market P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes Itamae Sushi Olga Cosettini 1553 La Cabaña Alicia M. De Justo 380 La Parolacia Casa Tua Alicia M. de Justo 276 La Parolacia del Mare Alicia M. de Justo 1170 Lupita Mexican Bar Olga Cossettini 1091 Museo del Jamón Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 Osaka (Faena Arts Center) Juana Manso 1164 Patio JaponésJuana Manso y E. Escurra Persicco Heladeria Juana Manso 1100 Rodizio Alicia M. De Justo 838 Siga La Vaca Alicia M. De Justo 1714 Simone Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra Sushi Club Petrona Eyle 471 Sushi Club Alicia Moreu de Justo 286 Tres Quarts by Rodizio Pierina Dealessi 1130 Winery Juana Manso y M. Guemes RECOLETA Alvear Palace Hotel Avda Alvear 1891 Art Suites Azcuénaga 1465 Art Suites & Gallery Peña 2268 Ayres de Libertad Libertad 1283 Ayres de Recoleta Hotel Uriburu 1756 Casa Sur Art Hotel Av. Callao 1823 Galería Rubbers Internacional Avda Alvear 1595 Howard Jonhnson HB Peña 2049 Ih International House Pacheco de Melo 2555 LoiSuites Recoleta Hotel Vicente Lopez 1955 Mio Buenos Aires Hotel Avda. Quintana 465 Poetry Building Junin 1280 Ulises Recoleta Suites Ayacucho 2016 Unique Art Ellegance Avda. Pueyrredón 1940

Si quieres copias gratis de Playground Buenos Aires, por favor contactar | editor@playgroundba.com For an up to date list with new locations check out our website www.playgroundba.com

RETIRO Basa Basavilbaso 1328 Farinelli Arroyo 900 Feir´s Park Hotel Esmeralda 1366 Hotel Loi Suites Arenales Arenales 855 Sofitel Buenos Aires Arroyo 841 SAN CRISTOBAL Bar de Cao (Los Notables) Av. Independencia 2400 SAN TELMO America del Sur Buenos Aires Hostel Chacabuco 718 Antares Bolívar 491 Arribo Buenos Aires Perú 291 Bar Defensa Defensa y Cochabamba BE Hotel Buenos Ares Venezuela 649 Bohemia Buenos Aires Hotel B.Perú 845 Buenos Aires Vintage Café La Poesía (Los Notables) Chile 502 Dazzler San Telmo Piedras 303 El Federal (Los Notables) Carlos Calvo 595 Hostel Inn Buenos Aires Humberto Primo 820 Hostel Tango Argentina Chacabuco 747 Hotel Babel Balcarce 946 Hotel Bolívar Bolívar 886 Hotel Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 748 Il Sorpasso Humberto Primo 478 Kenton Palace Buenos Aires Defensa 383 La Casita de San Telmo Cochabamba 286 La Poesía Chile 502 Lumio Café Carlos Calvo 498 MACBA Museo Arte Contemp. Avda. San Juan 328 MAMBA Museo Arte Moderno Avda San Juan 350 Mansion Dandi Royal Piedras 922 Mariposita Carlos Calvo 948 Moreno Hotel Moreno 376 Ostinatto Hostel Chile 680 Patios de San Telmo Chacabuco 752 Piedras Suites Piedras 908 Posada de la Luna B&B Perú 565 Ribera Sur Hotel Paseo Colón 1145 Sagardi Suites Humberto Primo 319 San Telmo Flats Piedras 990 San Telmo Luxury Suites Chile 437 Telmho Hotel Boutique Defensa 1086 TelmoTango Hostel Suites Chacabuco 679 Tiana Buenos AiresHumberto Primo 629 Urban Station San Telmo Avda. San Juan y Chacabuco Yauss! Estados Unidos 509 Zorzal Mane Petit Hotel Humberto Primo 775