PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES - ED.2 - JUNIO/JULIO - 2014 by Pablo Ortiz Avila

JUN-JUL 2014 | FREE magazine | NÂ° 2

BUENOS AIRES GUIDE WORLD CUP FEVER TANGO IN BA RESTAURANTS & BARS

Welcome to Playground Buenos Aires!

hank you for picking up a copy of Playground Buenos Aires! We are pleased to present our second edition of this new free city guide and magazine. Please use us how you like: for tips, for the handy map at the back, for romantic nights in, or for passing bored hours on a plane, train or automobile. While it might be getting colder in the city, we can’t resist feeling a little bit tropical at the thought of the World Cup being held in neighbouring Brazil this year! World Cup fever has definitely hit Argentina (as if it ever left…) and so we’ve given you the World Cup lowdown including a Destination Guide to Brazil’s host cities and a nifty World Cup game guide tear-out so you don’t have to miss a single match. We don’t want you to leave our beloved Buenos Aires behind though so if you don’t get see the live thing in Brazil, we’ve also provided the lowdown on the best bars to watch football in the city. Continuing with the football theme, we’ve got recommended corks to pop if your team triumphs (or if you need to forget the result), and our featured artist Yvonne Kaiser has even gone with a footie theme for this edition’s unique cover. For the non-football fanatics out there (we know you exist, although it’s a tough time of year to admit it) there is plenty more to feast your eyes and senses on while in Buenos Aires: whether you want to tread the boards of your first tango dance floor, tuck into the city’s food scene, or just find some peace and quiet where you can get a cup of tea and let the rugrats loose for a while… When you are done with your Playground Buenos Aires guide, please pass us on to the next user. We want to get around as much as possible, so if you do like the magazine, pass it on to a friend, a neighbor, or anyone that looks like they read a bit of English – the more hands on us the better! We are a little bit trampish in that way. Or if you want to pimp us out yourselves in your own restaurant or hotel, please drop us an email and we’ll get some copies to you. We are free for everyone! We are also keen to hear from eager writers, illustrators, artists and photographers who are interested in collaborating in the future. And if you simply want to email us some feedback or some of your own favourite playground game ideas, we’d love to hear from you! Un beso!

Playground Buenos Aires Editor | Amanda Barnes editor@playgroundba.com Design | Pablo Ortiz design@playgroundba.com Distribution & Sales | office@playgroundba.com admin@playgroundba..com Playground Argentina S.A., Alicia Moreau de Justo 1848, Oficina 2 Buenos Aires, Argentina www.playgroundba.com

BUENOS AIRES IS YOUR

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COME AND TRY THE BEST SPANISH AND ARGENTINE JAMÓN IN BUENOS AIRES AT MUSEO DEL JAMÓN! Visit Museo del Jamón in Puerto Madero for an excellent range of seafood, meat dishes, homemade pasta, salads and tapas. Try our unique specialties including Suckling Pig, Salami and Ham imported from Spain and the best providers in Argentina, and Seafood Fideuá. We hope to see you soon! Open every day from 12 till 12 Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 Puerto Madero (Dique 1) Bs. As. (011) 4300-5418 info@museodeljamonpuerto.com

CONTENTS It Takes Two

A guide to tango and alternative tango in BA

10 Finding Yoga Bliss 12 BA's Baby Food

Where to take your babe in arms and toddlers in the city The best spots for shavasana in the city

The Art of Argentine Slang

A guide to Lunfardo and Argentine body language

Artist Profile Yvonne Kaiser

WORLD CUP SPECIAL Behind Football Fever

The Highs and Lows of Argentine Football

Screening BA's Sports Pubs The best places to catch the game

Playground's World Cup Pull Out Chart

28 32

Destination Guide Brazil

A guide to the best of each World Cup host city

A Taste of Brazil in BA

Top spots for Brazilian beats and flavour

Blue is my Colour

Poetry from an Argentine fan

Scribbles from a Somm

Top sparkling wines to celebrate a win

The Riddler, The Monk and The Robot

The Sparkling Wine Diaries and what makes wine fizz

Focus On

Palermo Soho

Restaurant Guide

Top spots to eat in the city

Closed Door Restaurant Guide Underground Dining

Bar Guide

Where to drink and be merry

Focus on Cafe Tortoni

One of the city's most historical cafes

Playground Tips

Useful Info for being in Buenos Aires

Map

Photos by Rosie Hilder

Rosie Hilder takes us through the two step, three step and kick that heel back right up your skirtâ&#x20AC;Ś otherwise known as the forbidden tango

TANGO’S ORIGINS The truth about the origins of tango, the dance that has captured so many a heart and driven thousands into a tango-fueled frenzy, is shrouded in myth and legend. As the dance began amongst lower-class immigrants who did not leave written records, much of its story relies on guesswork and the accounts of those from a highersocial stratum who encountered he tango later on. Some things, however, are certain. It is known that during the late 1800s many men came to Argentina, lured in by the promise of a short period of work, before a swift return to their families, pockets bursting with cash. In reality, immigrant life was gritty, difficult and lonely. The promised riches never materialised and the triumphant return home never came. Instead, impoverished immigrants found themselves living in large communal homes called conventillos, often in Southern neighbourhoods like La Boca. In these conventillos, homesick immigrants played music together to provide respite and entertainment that transcended language and cultural barriers. From these musical gatherings, influenced by Spanish and African rhythms and the recent craze for couple dancing in Europe, the tango was born. The shortage of women in Buenos Aires also influenced the tango’s development. Men who wanted to meet a girl had two choices; they could get short-term kicks at the brothel, or try to woo a wife by showing off their dancing. Most men did both. To entertain the bored and horny men waiting in line at the brothel, musicians played, and so it was that men began to dance the tango together as they waited, practicing their moves to impress the girls later on. It took a while for the tango to enter mainstream culture in Argentina. After Argentine sailors travelled to France and introduced the tango there around 1912, the dance

became so popular in London, Paris and New York that upper-class Argentines were forced to embrace it. SOCIAL CODES Rife with social codes and hidden head nods, the milonga can be a daunting place. To learn your cabeceo from your cortina, check out these top tips. At traditional milongas, the man must ask the woman to dance, not the other way round. The man does this by scouring the room, when he sees a woman he wants to dance with; he nods his head slightly at her, called a cabeceo. To accept the dance, she nods back. He will then come towards her table and the couple move onto the dance floor together. If the woman doesn’t want to dance with the man, she simply looks the other way or pretends she hasn’t seen him. If she sees a man she does want to dance with, she will try and catch his eye, and if he doesn’t want to dance with her, he ignores her gaze. Often, men and women sit on opposite sides of the room, in order to facilitate the cabeceo. Top Tip | Don’t forget your glasses or you might end up missing the vital signals or nodding at an undesirable partner. The music of the milonga is divided into tandas, sets of around five songs played together. These are broken up by cortinas, which are non-tango tracks played in between tandas. Men usually ask women to dance at the start of the tanda, and the same couple dance together for the whole tanda. It is extremely bad form to abandon your partner midtanda and would be a terrible insult to do so. In between dances, the couple may exchange a few pleasantries and at the end of the cortina, each dancer returns to their table in order to eye up new potential partners. Top Tip | Choose your partner wisely; you’ll have to dance a whole tanda

with them once you’ve accepted. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to tell if someone sweats excessively, has bad breath or is likely to stand on your toes from across the room, so sometimes you’ll have to risk it and hope for the best. Both sexes may be reluctant to dance with someone who is new on the scene, because they don’t know if they’re any good, and they don’t want to have to dance a whole tanda with a potentially bad dancer. They will often wait to watch potential partners dance with someone else before they ask them themselves. Top Tip | Ladies, to guarantee a dance, hire a taxi dancer from a company like Taxi Dancer Tango (Av. Roque Saenz Peña 1110, Piso 5, Oficina 2 (1035), 5183 0580, www. taxidancertango.com, ask for a quote). The taxi dancer will act as if they don’t know you, nodding at you across the room before spinning you round the dance floor, but you’ll have to pay him for the pleasure. If you go to the milonga as a couple, also beware that this may put off other potential dance partners. Couples who want to dance together usually sit in a different section of the milonga, away from the mating ritual of the cabeceo. Couples who want to dance with other people, may sit away from each other. At modern milongas, these rules are no longer followed, or are much more flexible. It is not uncommon in these tango halls for men or women to approach each other directly to ask for dances. Buenos Aires also has a buzzing gay tango or Tango Queer scene. At milongas gay, dance couples can be either same or opposite sex, most dance both the man and woman’s part, and they may even switch roles mid-tanda. Gay or straight, male or female, anyone can dance with anyone at Queer Tango. Many

straight young women prefer going to gay milongas, seeing them as welcome change from the macho culture of more traditional tango halls. TANGO SHOWS For an authentic street tango experience that costs just a few pesos, head to San Telmo street fair on a Sunday. Here, you can watch street performers dancing and singing tango for tips. As night comes and the market winds down, locals flock to the makeshift milonga in Plaza Dorrego and dance the night away beneath colourful street lights. Another atmospheric open-air tango spot is La Glorieta (11 de Septiembre y Echeverría, 4674 1026, Saturdays and Sundays, from 8pm, free), where tango-lovers gather on a bandstand in leafy Belgrano for free classes followed by a practica.

Photo by Svetozar Andic

To see a reasonably priced, quality tango show, head to the famous Café Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825, 4342 4328, www.cafetortoni.com. ar, shows every day, 8.30pm, $180). This historic café is also a good spot for a hot chocolate and churros and is home to the Academia Nacional de Tango. The Academia has tango classes and the informative tango museum the Museo Mundial Del Tango (Avenida de Mayo 825, piso 1, 4345 6967, Mon-Friday 2.30pm 7.30pm). Cultural centre Centro Cultural Borges (Viamonte 500, 5555 5359, www.ccborges.org. ar, every day from 8pm, from $100) also has a variety of excellent tango shows that won’t break the bank. Although the Esquina Carlos Gardel Tango Show in Abasto (Carlos Gardel 3200, 4867 6363, www. esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar, every day, dinner 8.30, show 10.30, from US$96) is something of a tourist trap, this well organised event does exactly what it says on the tin, and it does it well. The evening starts with an optional dinner and climaxes with a professional and enjoyable tango show full of glitz, glamour and

plenty of passion. Over in San Telmo, Bar Sur (Estados Unidos 299, 4362 6086, www.bar-sur.com.ar, every day from 9pm, show $600, show and dinner $800) has a similar touristy vibe. Skip the overpriced dinner, there are plenty of better options in the neighbourhood, and arrive in time for the up close and personal show at this cosy historic bar. At the high-end of the market, Faena Hotel’s Rojo (Martha Salotti 445, 4952 4111, www.rojotangoshow. com, every day, dinner 8.30pm, show 10.00pm, dinner and show US$250, show US$185) has got it all: gorgeous, intimate venue, topnotch service, excellent food and a superb tango show with a live orchestra, five extremely talented couples, and tango singers to boot. A night at Rojo is not cheap, but it will not disappoint. To avoid missing out, make sure you reserve well in advance. MILONGAS AND TANGO CLASSES Note that the dance you see at a tango show is ‘show tango’ and is very different to the ‘everyday tango’ danced in milongas. For an authentic tango experience, don’t miss going to a milonga. The entry usually costs around $50 and most nights have some sort of performance later on in the evening. You’ll have to hang around till at least midnight to catch the orchestra, dancing or singing show, but those who can stay awake will be glad they did. The following milongas also all have tango classes, which cost around $40, followed by a practica. During the practica, you can practise the steps you learned in the class in an informal setting. This is useful as you can stop mid-dance to try out your moves, while at the milonga this is not acceptable. Most teachers are used to tourists and speak at least some English. If you are going to just the milonga and not the class or practice, it’s best to call ahead to reserve a table.

Traditional milongas include El Beso (Riobamba 416, 4953 2794, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday. Times vary) and Salon Canning (Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, 4826 8351, Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays), both popular with a loyal crowd whose ages range between 30 to 70. These milongas are firmly rooted in the local community and are fantastic for people watching, trying to decipher tango’s social codes and seeing high-quality tango danced by the people who live, breathe and dream the dance. La Confiteria Ideal (Suipacha 384, 4328 0474, www. confiteriaideal.com, see website for schedule) is one of city’s grand cafes, which flourished in the Golden Era and is now charming, beautiful and dilapidated. They have affordable shows and classes, plus an afternoon milonga most days of the week. Hosted in the Armenian club in Palermo, La Viruta (Armenia 3116, 4779 0030, www.lavirutatango.com, see website for schedule) is a mix between a traditional and modern tango hall, depending on the day and the crowd, and has a range of classes and milongas, plus rock and salsa classes. Modern milongas are popular with a young, hip crowd who are not afraid to experiment with different tango styles. Set in a trendy converted house in Almagro, DNI (Bulnes 1011, 4866 6553, www.dni-tango.com, Mondays to Saturdays, 10am - 9pm) offer a range of great value group and private classes, including a relaxed Saturday afternoon practica, and also have a funky tango shoe and clothes shop on site. In the same neighbourhood, bohemian La Catedral (Sarmiento 4006, 15 5325 1630, www.lacatedralclub. com, every day 6pm - 4am) is housed in what looks like a school gymnasium hijacked by art students. Paintings and sculptures cover every available space, and anything goes with the eclectic, energetic crowd. There are also folklore classes and an excellent range of vegetarian food.

Down in San Telmo, Buenos Ayres Club (Peru 571, 4331 1518, every day 9pm - 2am) is open every night. Monday’s night bendita milonga (blessed milonga) and Wednesday’s maldita milonga (damned milonga), both have a class, followed by a milonga with impressive live music and a mixed crowd. On Tuesdays, it’s Tango Queer night, which includes a class followed by a milonga. Other recommendable gay tango nights are La Marshall (Riobamba 416, 4583 3423, www.lamarshall.com. ar, class 10.30pm, milonga 11.30pm) on Fridays or Bayres Folk (15 5654 1658, Alsina 2540, 19.30 folklore class, 20.30 tango class, 10.15pm - 1.00 practica) a gay tango and folk event in Balvanera on Wednesdays (Alsina 2540) and in Palermo (Uriarte 1271) on Saturdays. Top Tip | To find out what’s on where, download the free English-language app Milonga Hoy or pick up a copy of Tanguera magazine at any tango venue.

ONE WEEK IN TANGO Whatever the day and time, there’s tango happening somewhere in the city. For the best tango week of your life, dance your way to the following: MONDAY Buenos Ayres Club TUESDAY La Catedral WEDNESDAY Bayres Folk THURSDAY Confiteria Ideal Tango Ideal FRIDAY Salon Canning SATURDAY DNI (afternoon), El Beso (evening) SUNDAY La Glorieta

Helen Appleby is a yoga teacher, massage therapist, writer and looks after two small boys in her spare time. www.onawingandaprayerblog. wordpress.com

iving in BA with babies or small children and in need of some time out? Want to combine tending to your little ones whilst also discovering more of the Porteño café culture? You might think that the attempt to organise a successful sortie from home is akin to a military operation. You

may scoff in derision at the suggestion you have the time and energy to lounge around people-watching in a café when you’re lucky if you brushed your teeth. But wait! Here are a few ideas to whet the appetite, refuel before the next tantrum and get you out of the confines of your four walls.

ANIMA Renowned for their delicious array of cupcakes (arguably the best in BA) Anima offers a tranquil space to meet for a coffee, cake or sample from an extensive brunch menu. The coffee is strong and smooth (as per the above) and you can combine with the usual medialunas or tostados for breakfast or opt for the home made granola and yoghurt. If things are going really bad with your little darlings why not treat yourself to one of the indulgent cakes or cookies and slowly relax into a sugar coma. Dulce de leche and chocolate obviously abound but there is also carrot cake, red velvet, Oreo cookie cupcakes…all mouth wateringly displayed. The décor is minimal with a Scandinavian feel; lots of space, light and simplicity, eliciting a calming affect on the most harried mum. Ideal for meeting friends with babes in arms and if you have older kids the cakes should keep them occupied for a while! N.B. As if often the case here, there is no changing station but staff were relaxed about using one of the tables out the back. Too good to miss! Anima, Peña 2665, Peña and Juncal. 15 59 246 672 // 15 60 021 441 // 4805 8005. www.animacakes.com

PLAY For those with slightly older children, this brilliant café/ creative space runs workshops downstairs to occupy your child as you either look on or, praise be, venture to the quiet sanctity of upstairs. Here, caffeine IV safely in place you can slowly come to your senses, catch up with a friend or possibly attempt some work. AR$70 per hour for the playroom, plus a small array of cakes and drinks available upstairs. The gate to the playroom is locked so you can relax about the fact they are out of sight. Several energetic, bilingual staff members are on hand to supervise the children in activities including: painting, playing with foam or sand as well as the usual cars, playhouse with slide, balls, kitchenette…possibly due to the fact it recently opened but facilities and toys are clean and well kept. Impressive! Play offers a wonderful concept but you may just find your progeny want to hang off you and refuse to join in (as happened with me) leaving you with two kids to look after, none of the comforts of home and little chance to attack that slice of marble cake. Play, Juncal 1432, Juncal and Parana. 4816 6666

CASA MUA Situated in an ornate corner building of Palermo Viejo, this café’s secret weapon is its playroom! Available for kids to roam wild, mums can view the action through a glass wall and attempt to enjoy their coffee and catch up with friends without being drawn in to resolve the latest toddler dispute. The selection of toys is a little jaded but playroom use is free and staff relaxed. Great staples such as toasties, pizzas, salads and wonderful juices and smoothies aswell as coffees are available. After 4pm is the Merienda menu only which is a little on the sweet side. If they haven’t sold out there is a tasty selection of different pan integral in contrast to the staple pan de trigo. Plus outside seating. The great news is that there is a baby change facility (upstairs) but if you’re coming with a push chair on a busy afternoon, it can seem like an adult version of Tetris trying to coordinate seating, hold baby and manoeuvre push chairs in and out of tight spaces. Only less fun. Waiters at the most recent visit were young males who, strangely for Porteños, seemed oblivious to our logistical stress and were not that helpful. Casa Mua, Soler 4202, Soler and Julian Alvarez, 4862 7561 www.facebook.com/casa.mua BIO CAFÉ With it’s white and lime green walls, bamboo, Buddhas and high ceilings redolent of a yogic shrine this café is a wonderful place to go for a cup of tea, snack, lunch or dinner. If you’ve grown tired of medialunas, tostadas and steaks, head here for an inventive selection of super healthy salads, noodles, pizzas and soups. Also a rarity in BA is its range of healthy infusions aiding digestion or fighting fatigue. If you’re feeling run down and bedraggled, just perusing the menu will make you feel lighter. That said, it’s not all wheatgrass shots and self-restraint; there is a long dessert menu including tapioca pancakes with red fruits, flans, sesame and ginger ice creams. For something more filling and savoury there are lentil burgers and delicious bruschettas. Homemade wholemeal bread with tapenade is served as standard in a cork bowl. Bike racks and seating outside. You can also purchase some of their niche health products. What’s not to love? A slight drawback is the lack of baby changing and narrow entrance which can prove tricky with pushchairs but it’s worth it if you are feeling in need of a healthy, tasty alternative to the norm. Best for babes in arms. Or better still leave the kids at home and come of an evening with your partner. Bio Café, Humboldt 2192, Humboldt and Guatemala, 4774 3880. www.biorestaurant.com.ar LA PAYUCA The owners of this otherwise slick looking parrilla y ‘horno de campo’ took the ingenious decision to include a large day-glo playroom on its upper floor. Entrance to the room

is free if you order either a kids meal or snack. Keen to avoid a toddler food-throwing session due to overtiredness, we arrived as the doors were opening at noon and were ushered to the tables adjacent to the playroom. By the time our food arrived, eight further tables had been filled with similarly exhausted looking parents accompanying children under six. As well as the usual cuts available there were delicious alternatives such as pork with plums and apple. Lifeaffirming Provencale fries (with garlic and rosemary) also a must. Helpfully, the playroom is also open from 16-19h to accompany their ‘Mate bar’. So Mum can sit, chat and refuel with a friend whilst the kids cause chaos in a safe space. Families are usually squirrelled away adjacent to the room. If you are seated further away there is a camera zoomed in on the playroom entrance allowing you to check your children aren’t escaping or getting into a ruckus, via a screen further down. BA needs more of these spaces. La Payuca, Arenales 3443, Arenales y Bulnes, www.lapayuca.com CANTÉ PRI One of the best options for children over toddler age, this great little café is open from mid afternoon into the evening serving a variety of wholesome but child-friendly dishes including pastas, pizzas, milanesa, chicken and chips. Fixed to the walls are a variety of retro wooden games and stacked up on shelves are countless board games. The seats and tables are basic formica and plastic in brightly coloured hues: the focus is definitely more on the child here but when they are amused and well-fed, parental contentment follows! If younger siblings are accompanying the outing, good news! There is a changing station and staff are extremely helpful and understanding. There is a punchy, free lemonade with the 20 peso entrance fee. Upstairs is a space that can be hired out for private parties and a series of rainbow-coloured cakes dusted with hyperactivity inducing sprinkles was seen being dispatched to a group of baying 3 year olds. Well, this is Argentina after all! Canté Pri, Chacras 5216, Chacras and Bonpland, 4777 7236, www.cantepri.com In a city with such a love affair and relaxed attitude to children it’s good to know there are a few spots to go to when you want to go out en famille. As all mothers know however, sometimes it’s easier to stay at home with distractions and amusements to hand, and all the equipment for a radioactive poo. I am still yet to find a café where water and cushions are freely proffered to breast-feeding mothers with a guaranteed baby change and buggy park. I sense a gap in the market… but until then these spaces offer a reasonable middle ground for you to enjoy some time out of the house with your children… and have some one else cook and clean up for you!

Lauren Miner is a writer and consultant from the US living in Argentina. She enjoys sushi, dance, yoga and travel and you can read about her attempts at healthy living while in the land of empanadas at Active Expat. www.activeexpat.com

URBAN LOTUS

Is an adorable studio located on the second floor of an old French style building in Palermo Hollywood. The main yoga classroom is a warm and inviting space featuring hardwood floors and large windows with several tiny balconies covered in planter boxes brimming with bright red flowers. Urban Lotus features hatha, iyengar, ashtanga, restorative, and purna yoga classes, ideal for those seeking variety within their practice. A drop-in class is about $80 AR and monthly membership starts at $250 AR for one class per week. The “eh” part | Classes are less frequently offered throughout the day compared to other studios. Likewise, the majority of classes are the slower varieties of yoga, (ex. Hatha, Iyengar) which are good for improving muscle flexibility, concentration, relaxation and breathing, but are usually less physically challenging. If you want a workout, the ashtanga class is really your only option.

Although better known for tango dance, steak, and malbec wine, Buenos Aires is rapidly becoming a hot spot for yoga as well. A leisurely stroll through the Palermo, Las Cañitas, Recoleta, and San Telmo neighborhoods will reveal a plethora of yoga studios and sports clubs offering classes in every style including: bikram, hatha, vinyasa, ashtanga, iyengar, kundalini, and more. Finding yoga classes might not be hard, but choosing a studio that suits your physical and spiritual needs can be. To help you find your yoga mojo we’ve put together a list of some of the best yoga studios in Buenos Aires.

The best part | Shavasana. Yoga classes typically end with a final pose called shavasana, in which everyone lays on their back allowing the mind and body to relax and reset itself. What’s so special about that? Well, at Urban Lotus shavasana is all about pampering your body. They provide complimentary fleece blankets, lavender scented, therapeutic eye masks, and calming face and neck massages as you rest in your final pose. It’s also not uncommon for the teacher to light candles and incense or lightly spray scents in the air to help inspire relaxation. It is the most luxurious shavasana imaginable and you will leave feeling and smelling like a goddess. Fitz Roy 2207 - Palermo, Buenos Aires Tel (54) 5294-5032 www.urbanlotuspalermo.com Language(s) spoken | Spanish

VALLE TIERRA

Is a staple for yogis in Buenos Aires. They offer a robust schedule of yoga classes in every style of practice, as well as workshops, books, and oodles yoga paraphernalia. They are located in the charming Palermo Soho neighborhood, directly next to plaza Armenia, so after breaking a sweat, turning yourself into a human pretzel, and finding

inner peace you can take a seat in the park, sip mate, and enjoy the lively, yet laid back pace that permeates Buenos Aires. Drop-in classes are $150 AR and a monthly-unlimited pass costs about $600 AR. The “eh” part | This is going to sound harsher than it’s meant to be, but there is a lack of spirituality and warmth at Valle Tierra compared to other studios in Buenos Aires. The teachers emphasize the physicality of yoga over the mental and spiritual components. Some people really enjoy this style of class, but if you crave the yoga “high,” you know… that mind numbing, body humming feeling that you sometimes get after a great class, you probably won’t find that at Valle Tierra. It is a great studio for helping you master advanced yoga poses, but better to look elsewhere for enlightenment. The best part | The Valle Tierra studio is a large and beautiful space (think Zen gardens and waterfall instillations) ideal for practicing yoga. Multiple rooms allows for several yoga classes to be taught at once, which means that at any time of day you can find a class that fits your schedule and fitness needs. Experienced teachers facilitate classes in hatha, ashtanga, kundalini, iyengar, cardio, and Bhajan (children’s yoga); and push their students to perfect each yoga pose. Of all the studios visited, this one stands out as the best bet for bringing your yoga to the next level. Costa Rica 4562 Palermo, Buenos Aires Tel (54) 4833-6724/1222 www.valletierra.com Language(s) spoken | Spanish and English

BUENA ONDA

Is the Argentine equivalent of Mecca for expat and travelbug yogis. The studio operates in 3 neighborhoods of Buenos Aires including, Las Cañitas, San Telmo and Recoleta. Each location typically has one class per day, which they teach IN ENGLISH to students from all over the world. The yoga studio spaces are warm and inviting, as are the teachers, who instantly make you feel like you’re part of a community and not just a tourist trying to stay fit on vacation. In addition to their usual yoga classes, they regularly offer fun and interesting workshops on health, fitness, and wellbeing. Your first drop-in class will set you back $80 pesos, it’s $160 AR for each drop-in afterwards, and a monthly unlimited pass costs about $800 AR. The “eh” part | Almost all the classes at Buena Onda are vinyasa, a fluid, movement-intensive practice in which the teachers choreograph their classes to smoothly transition from pose to pose, often to music. It’s a popular and wellknown style of yoga, but if you’re looking to try different styles you may want to consider a studio that offers a variety of yoga practices. That said, no two vinyasa clas-

ses are the same, so there’s still a lot of room for variation in each class depending on the instructor and theme of the class that day. It’s also worth noting that Buena Onda is a little bit pricier than other yoga studios. Think of it as the price you pay for taking classes in English and not Spanish. The best part | Buena Onda is not just a yoga studio – it’s a community. Unlike other studios where you come in, take class and then leave, Buena Onda is the type of place where people talk casually before class and grab dinner afterwards. The classes themselves are physically challenging and often spiritually invigorating. They are complimented with regular workshops and retreats that focus on various aspects of health and wellbeing. Buena Onda literally translates to “good wave” in Spanish, but in the context of a person or situation it means “good energy or vibe.” Buena Onda yoga studio lives up to its name in every way, offering enjoyable and friendly yoga classes to people from all walks of life. Multiple locations Las Cañitas (Gorostiaga 1776), San Telmo (Balcarce 958), Recoleta (Jean Juares 1193) Info@buenaondayoga.com www.buenaondayoga.com Language(s) spoken | English and Spanish Buenos Aires is a bustling metropolis that can feel a bit overwhelming at times. Fortunately, yoga provides the ideal escape from all the traffic and chaos during your stay abroad. And Buenos Aires is a city full of options for those looking to get their yoga on, so don’t be afraid to mix and match different studios and practices until you find the right fit for you. Besides, once you’ve exhausted all of the yoga options in Buenos Aires, there’s always Eco Yoga Park (www.ecoyogapark.com), an inspiring yoga retreat center just 40 miles outside of the city.

WHERE TO GET YOUR YOGA GEAR AXA | Products and devices for practicing yoga, Monday to Friday 08:30 - 19:30. Bouchardo 2756 CAMPANIA INTERIOR | Yoga attire and accessories. Monday to Saturday from 11:00 - 20:00. Armenia 1532 SOWNNE | Fitness ware. Av. Luis Jose de Chorroarin 965 A VALLA TIERRA | Classes and products for practicing yoga, Monday to Saturday 8:30 to 21:00. Costa Rica 4562 STOCK CENTER | Chain of 22 sports articles stores in city and suburbs. Major brands. Av. Cabildo 2080

When British journalist Rosie moved to BA four years ago she fell in love with its vibrant streets, relaxed lifestyle and dulce de leche ice cream. In her free time she enjoys photography, storytelling and writing songs about board games. www.rosiehilder.com

So you thought you understood Spanish? Rosie Hilder teaches you how to really talk the talk in Buenos Aires with a quick pick of lunfardo.

1. Saying hello Che is the word Argentines use to call each other, a bit like ‘hey’ in English, and is usually used at the start of a sentence. It is often followed by boludo, which can mean friend, mate or idiot, depending on the context.

2. Booze and partying There are lunfardo words for life’s essentials: morfi – food, birra – beer, pucho – cigarettes, boliche – nightclub and bondi – bus. Perhaps you might wait for the bondi as you smoke a pucho, and think about the birra you’re about to have with your morfi, before going to a boliche.

3. Girls and Boys Mina, pibe and chabón are slang for boys and girls. A male can be a pibe, or a chabón, a female a mina, piba or chabóna.

4. Being cool If someone refers to you as a grosso/a, capo/a or copado/a you should definitely not be offended, these words mean a person is cool and are the highest of compliments in lunfardo.

5. Making Excuses Tengo fiaca literally translates to ‘I have laziness’ and is often used as an excuse to get out of engagements. Another useful word is colgado/a, which means flaky, and me colgué means ‘I flaked,’ another acceptable excuse as to why you didn’t do something

6. Disaster In the early 1900s, quilombo was used to refer to Argentine whorehouses; nowadays the term means mess or disaster. ¡Es un quilombo! is slang for: ‘It’s a total mess’. This will still raise the eyebrows of some grannies on the block though.

It began as a whisper among prisoners, homesick immigrants and some of the first tangueros, but lunfardo, or Buenos Aires slang has now permeated popular culture to the extent that porteños of all ages and social classes use its thousands of words and phrases. Much lunfardo is accompanied by hand gestures, a true porteño shows no emotion without waving their hands around, and can be roughly divided into categories regarding the most important aspects of Argentine life.

7. Flirting The art of chamuyo or smooth-talking, is a skill that seems to come naturally to most porteño men. Useful related phrases are: sos un chamuyero – ‘you’re a smooth-talker’ or dejá de chamuyarme – ‘stop trying to fool me/chat me up’. Other useful flirting phrases include tirar onda which means to flirt of send someone good vibes, and touch and go, a phrase for a one-night stand or casual sexual relationship.

8. Balls A lot of lunfardo relates to a man’s balls, yet men and women alike refer to their pelotas or bolas with phrases such as rompe bolas – ball breaker or hincha pelotas – a ball itcher, or someone annoying. ¡Que hincha pelotas! translates literally to ‘how you make my balls itch’, or ‘What a ball breaker!’. They are also referred to as huevos (eggs) which can often cause entertaining translation errors in conversation.

9. Money There are several words to talk about cash. Mangos are Argentine pesos, guita is money and a luca, one thousand pesos. No tengo ni un mango, would mean ‘I’m totally broke/I don’t even have one peso’ but it is more fun to think about said person being sad about not even having one tasty mango.

10. Farting Pedo means fart, and lunfardo is littered with fart-related vocabulary. En pedo (in fart) means drunk, ni en pedo (not even in a fart) – translates to ‘not even if I was drunk.’ Other phrases include estoy al pedo (I am at fart) – ‘I’m not doing anything’ and vive en un nube de pedos (he/she lives in a cloud of farts) - meaning ‘they have their head in the clouds’.

While silly words might be a Porteño’s forte, do not underestimate the power of the gesture either. Here’s a quick fire guide to getting yourself understood with the ultimate BA body language:

CUIQUI - To suggest that someone is scared, or has cuiqui, press your fingers against your thumb repeatedly. The motion is said to represent the anus muscles contracting in fear. When to use it - Before your friend gets up to show off their tango moves for the first time. When not to use it - As part of your dance routine.

NI IDEA - The Argentine equivalent of the shoulder shrug, to say you don’t know something, place your right hand under your chin and then move it away from your body. When to use it - When someone asks you which bus they need to get to the outskirts of the city. When not to use it - In answer to ‘Why did you come to Argentina?’

157

MONTONCITO - The best way to trash talk someone with your fingers, this gesture means ‘what the hell are you talking about?’ or ‘what’s your problem?’ To make a montoncito, bunch fingers and thumb together and move your hand up and down around waist or chest height. When to use it - When a taxi driver tries to run you down on 9 de Julio. When not to use it - To an immigration official querying why you keep popping across to Uruguay every three months.

OJO - A favourite among concerned señoras, to warn someone to keep an eye out, or be careful, place your left index finger under your right eye, and pull the skin down. When to use it - When introducing a sibling to a particularly feisty friend. When not to use it - As someone is trying to rob you.

TACAÑO - To call someone a cheapskate like the locals, repeatedly tap your left hand on your right elbow. When to use it - When blabbing to your best mate about the tacaño who brought nothing but a bag of stale bread to the group BBQ. When not to use it - Directly to someone’s face when they’ve just bought you a drink.

“Louise”

Interview by AMANDA BARNES

Artist profile /// YVONNE KAISER

When did you realise that you wanted to become an artist?

some time between 15 and 42 years old. Somewhere around then…

Since I was a young girl… I always felt a bit different: in my choice of games in which I always imagined different worlds, voices, gnomes… and I drew a lot. My father lived in the US and I sent him drawings instead of letters. Then I studied art and I always, always drew, painted or saw life through an artist’s view: from the colours in a salad, to the colours in clothes, in the clouds… my entire reality was constucted by what was creative, picturesque or artistic. But the moment when I took the decision ‘to be an artist’, I think it was

Was your path to being an artist a natural one?

This edition’s artist is Yvonne Kaiser, an artist and teacher who usually works with paintings.

To be an artist was a natural act, from my essence. I couldn’t see the world in any other way. Is it easy to be an artist in Argentina? What are the advantages or disadvantages? The advantages are personal: this country has something irreplaceable that forms parts of the emotional recipe for my paintings. It gives me a nest to develop in.

You can see more of her work

It is difficult to live off art in Argentina though, it is a very unique market… but there is an enormous creative genious in this country. There are many things to play with and develop, and this is very stimulating. The disadvantages are that at times you can’t find support from cultural politics, and that you can’t find some of the art materials or they are very expensive… but everything can be resolved! What are the themes you most like exploring in your art? Everything has to do with concious experiences or dreams. I like to

yvonne.kaiser.589 yvonnekaiser@hotmail.com www.flickr.com/photos/31044493@N08

What is a ‘normal’ day in the life of an artist?

In general I think that children are much more creative than adults.

I don’t know about the rest, but my days start very early because I adore mornings. I like to smell the aromas of the morning: the leaves, the rain, the humidity, the grass. Coffee with vanilla, toasted bread, the sweet-

What period of Argentina’s history do you think was the most creative?

Do you think that there is a most creative period in one’s life?

in the 60s, and now. In reality I think that there is a great openess to new technologies and new ways of expressing yourself. There are less prejudices about art, about what is beautiful, useful or decorative. There are many different paths. I think that this period is incredibly rich to observe, learn and inspire people to create with their own voice. What message would you give to yourself as a 16 year old? I would leave a message in a bottle that says “Learn to enjoy every moment, life offers them to you to enjoy. Savour every experience, don’t run when it is not necessary. Listen to your breathing, your body, jump, dance, shout, sing, sit down and think… Fall in love many times and open your heart. Take it in, embrace it. Art is the act of believing in every gesture of your day and night. Every being has the power to decide how to travel their path. Good luck and God bless.”

“Conversación silenciosa”

“Hoy función”

I think when they opened the first art schools, and a European wave of immigrants moved here. Then

“Despedida”

“Lunas de fútbol”

ness of a homemade jam. Then I meditate, I need half an hour for it – otherwise I can’t start. In meditation I create my own space of vitality, from nutrition to order. I also always do reiki to myself or others, and yoga. I also prepare art classes and give classes in primary school too. Working with children is a pleasure for me. Every day music is present, I listen to music for many hours from classical to Radiohead, Sigur Ross, Aristimuño, The Beatles, Jazz… I also enjoy silence though.

“Buscando”

“Sara”

“Volando” observe clouds for a long time, and when I paint them, ideas come from the clouds. I don’t ‘copy’ what is natural, they are images that are recreated internally: flowers, drops of water, balloons, gazes and gestures of people… especially children and animals, they are my siblings and companions. Everything forms part of the story of images that I bring to the painting. It is normal that I dream part of the piece of art – something appears in the night, and then I take it to the canvas. It always happens when I paint people and characters, that they appear at some moment! They are beings that I don’t know, but they look to be born.

AND

HIGHS LOWS OF

he football gods rule the roost in Argentina — the sport is the lifeblood of countless fans and courses through their veins provoking unparalleled passion. With Brazil’s World Cup looming the excitement is palpable, especially given the country’s standing as one of the favourites to win the tournament. Other than the array of talent comprising Argentina’s squad including the likes of Lionel Messi, Sergio Aguero, and Angel Di Maria, a relatively unintimidating group draw has increased expectations. Bosnia and Herzegovina, Nigeria, and Iran make up the rest of Group F with bookmakers certain to call the odds in Argentina’s favour against all three nations. Add all this to the fact the World Cup is being played in South America and the outlook appears optimistic for “La Albiceleste.”

Football forges fervour in Argentina but with the World Cup in Brazil only a few weeks away, many of the national team’s fans are paying for being over zealous. George Nelson reports on Argentine football.

ARGENTINA FOOTBALL

Coached by Alejandro Sabella, the national team naturally forms around Messi, regarded one of the greatest, if not the greatest footballer of our generation and worshipped as a deity in his own country. If Messi can reproduce his club form for country, something that he has not always been able to do, the goals should flow freely. After qualifying for the World Cup in impressive style with victories over Uruguay, Chile, and Colombia, the Argentine team holds down third place in the overall FIFA rankings.

George Nelson is a British journalist and football fan who is living in Buenos Aires and enjoys writing about environmental and social issues, as well as sport.

THE

Hopes may be high but this upbeat attitude will no doubt be tainted with a lick of caution - since winning a second World Cup in 1986 Argentina has been subject to numerous disappointments, notably losing to France in the 1990 final. Supporters who have had to cling onto Argentina’s last triumph 28 years ago are unlikely to be content with anything other than seeing their idols hold the golden trophy aloft.

It is now surely an after-thought that British immigrants introduced football to Argentina during the latter half of the nineteenth century. The country’s population has embraced the sport as if it were originally born on the streets of Buenos Aires. Although in recent times this thirst for football has led to a number of incidents that have tainted the reputation of Argentina’s football following. In July last year all away supporters of the country’s

domestic Primera División were banned from attending games in the Buenos Aires province following the fatal shooting of a supporter. The Club Atlético Lanús fan was killed by a rubber bullet fired from a policeman and was one of 15 football related deaths occurring in 2013 according to the NGO Salvemos al Fútbol (AFP) prompting an extreme response from the AFA, Argentina’s football federation. This ban did not apply to teams operating within the capital city itself, meaning two of the country’s most prominent outfits, Boca Juniors and River Plate, still enjoy heated rivalry on and off the pitch during the famous Superclásico derbies. Both clubs have origins in La Boca, the working class dockland area of Buenos Aires with River founded four years earlier in 1901. Sparks flew when River relocated to the more affluent district of Núñez and as a result the team was coined “Los Millonarios” (The Millionaires), further alienating the fans from Boca, called “Xeneizes” (Genosese) referring to the local Italian immigrant community which still forms the crux of the club’s support.

Each club in the top flight possesses a section of ultra hard-core fans. These infamous foot soldiers of football are the barras bravas and spread fear throughout the land. Well organised and sometimes violent, each intimidating network of supporters wields almost unfettered power over the multi-million-pound business of football in Argentina. Sadly mob violence and aggression is still utilised by the barras bravas to harvest tens of thousands of dollars from every game through illegal rackets, money laundering and drugs. The more successful and lucrative each particular club becomes, the more the fans claim as their own. Gustavo Grabia, an Argentine journalist who has spent years delving into the underground world of Argentine football and corruption, estimates that the largest barras bravas receive anywhere up to 30 percent of transfer fees when a player leaves, and up to 20 percent of some footballers’ salaries.

The reputation of Argentine supporters and the events leading up to the ban prohibiting away supporters travelling to top flight matches has spilled over onto World Cup preparations. Brazilian authorities, together with Interpol and police from neighbouring countries have expressed concern about allowing members of the barras bravas into Brazil to support Argentina, fearing severe unrest and confrontations between opposing sets of fans. A selection of the supporters, considered the most dangerous members of the organisations, have been placed in the so-called “risk group” and are

being closely monitored with a view to banning them from the greatest footballing event on Earth. However, the lawyer representing the Hinchadas Unidas Argentinas (Argentine United Supporters Union) - which brings together more than 30 groups of barras bravas confirmed that 650 members of the group will be granted access to Brazil to support the national side as it tries its best to take home gold this year.

On the flipside the majority of Argentina will be willing their team to win in the safety of their homes or from the hundreds of watering holes that are scattered throughout Buenos Aires. The atmosphere will be electric and as always, the World Cup is set to unite nationalities the world over.

ANUNCIATE AQUร ! Playground Buenos Aires es una nueva revista con un alcance de 30,000 copias por ediciรณn! La revista se reparte gratuitamente en ubicaciones claves para llegar a los turistas descubriendo y disfrutando Buenos Aires y Argentina. Contactanos para saber mรกs sobre Playground Buenos Aires editor@playgroundba.com admin@playgroundba.com

1/2

20 cm x 14,25 cm

1/8

10 cm x 7,125 cm

1/16 1/16

5 cm x 7,125 cm

1/4

20 cm x 7,125 cm

Rob Brown is a self-confessed football addict. After adopting Buenos Aires as his home for a few months he has gotten a taste for a places to catch a pint and the game.

As plane loads of tourists are making their way to Brazil over these next couple of months to catch the World Cup action, you can still get a taste of football fever in neighbouring Buenos Aires. Football nut Rob Brown investigates where best to get your pint and footie debates.

s one would expect in a city as sports-mad as Buenos Aires, there are a number of bars to choose from and with the 2014 FIFA World Cup just around the corner, finding one nearby is never going to be more important. However, finding a good one is not easy. Familiar sports bar shortcomings – poor service, lackadaisical scheduling and overpriced, bland drinks – are commonplace, and give the experience of watching televised sport in the city a somewhat bittersweet taste. It does not help that most Porteños are not really interested in watching sport in public, leaving these haunts more or less exclusively to tourists. By way of an explanation, it is worth remembering that the culture of watching sport in bars is relatively new. In the United Kingdom, at least, regular televised football was a rarity until the mid-1990s, when the game’s rapid gentrification priced out the traditionally working-class fanbase and forced it into pubs. This process is yet to happen in Argentina – so if people want to see their

team’s match, the vast majority can simply go to the stadium and watch it. Furthermore, the fact that almost all top-flight domestic matches are screened on terrestrial television through the ‘Fútbol Para Todos’ (football for everyone) programme means two things: firstly, that fans who are unable or unwilling to make the trip to the stadium do not need to leave their comfort of their home to watch the action; secondly, that most bars cannot claim an advantage over others by showing live football and so devote little energy to doing so. Nonetheless, there are several viable options. Here are five of the best. EL ALAMO (Uruguay 1175, Recoleta) Pros | A massive array of sport is on offer at this hugely popular American-owned bar. If you are looking for somewhere to watch a game with all-but guaranteed coverage, cheap drinks and a mostly English-speaking

Pros | If you have come from the UK and find yourself missing home, this well-known watering hole will be comfortingly familiar. A pub in the true English style, the Gibraltar offers a good range of drinks at reasonable prices and excellent grub, too. Cons | There are only two televisions in the bar area and, as with El Alamo, the crowds are regularly uncomfortably big. On those occasions, simply getting served or catching a glimpse of the screen becomes a challenge. LOCOS X EL FÚTBOL (Av. Las Heras 2101, Recoleta) Pros | Conveniently located one block from the Recoleta cemetery, this café-bar has more screens than you can shake a stick at and is always ready to accommodate the needs of visiting sports fans eager to watch their team. Cons | The range of drinks on offer is undeniably poor and the prices beggar belief. Service can be slow,

SUGAR (Costa Rica 4619, Palermo) Pros | Perhaps the most well-known option in all of Buenos Aires, Sugar benefits from a prime location in Palermo Viejo and caters to all comers with a wide range of sports coverage and regular drinks promotions. Cons | Again, the major events can attract colossal crowds: the queue to watch the Super Bowl there snaked down the street and into the distance. Also, it can be a bit dark – Sugar cannot hide that its primary function is as a tourist-friendly nightspot. SULLIVAN’S IRISH BAR (El Salvador 4919, Palermo) Pros | Very close to Plaza Serrano and almost always open, Sullivan’s is at the very least a reliable failsafe. The menu is decent and the surroundings pleasant enough to keep you hanging around long after the end of sporting proceedings. Cons | While the food is good, it is definitely on the pricey side. The Irish Bar setting can appear awfully artificial – it often feels like the only evidence that you’re sitting in Buenos Aires is the sunshine coming in through the window.

PUBLIC OUTDOOR SCREENINGS In a city that lives and breathes football it is no surprise that there are always outdoor screenings of the Argentina matches. You can catch the games and a crowd of fans in two locations for each Argentina match: at the Anfiteatro Parque Centenario and in Plaza San Martin. Expect hoards of fans, waving flags and a great atmosphere (unless Argentina lose). Pros | Free! And a great community spirit. Cons | Outside, so potentially cold and wet. Bring winter clothes. Anfiteatro de Parque Centenario | Leopoldo Marechal on the corner of Angel Gallardo Plaza San Martín | Santa Fé on the corner of Maipú

PABLO ORTIZ AVILA

DESIGNER

GIBRALTAR (Perú 895, San Telmo)

too: on one occasion half of the match our group was watching elapsed before our drinks arrived, despite regular reminders that we were still waiting.

GRAPHIC

clientele, this is by a distance your best bet. Cons | If you’re interested in actually watching the match more than mingling or getting steaming drunk, the crowds for major sporting events can be too big and too raucous. Additionally, the fact that the locals stay well clear gives it the feel of a North American enclave.

FIFA World Cup Ch Group A Brazil

Croatia Spain

VS Thursday, JUN 12, 17:00

Friday, JUN 13, 16:00

Saturday, JUN 14, 13:00

Saturday, JUN 14, 16:00

Cameroon

Cameroon Chile

Japan England

Arena Pernambuco - Recife

Arena Amazonia - Manaus

Friday, JUN 13, 13:00

Friday, JUN 13, 18:00

Saturday, JUN 14, 19:00

Saturday, JUN 14, 21:00

México Spain

Chile Colombia

Costa Rica

Italy

England

Costa Rica

Uruguay

England

Arena Pantanal - Cuibaba

Ivory Coast Uruguay

Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro

Estadio Nacional - Brasilia

Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo

Tuesday, JUN 17, 16:00

Wednesday, JUN 18, 19:00

Thursday, JUN 19, 13:00

Thursday, JUN 19, 16:00

Croatia Australia

Holland Japan

Greece Italy

Arena Amazonia - Manaus

Estadio Beira-Rio - Porto Alegre

Arena das Dunas - Natal

Arena Pernambuco - Recife

Wednesday, JUN 18, 15:00

Wednesday, JUN 18, 13:00

Thursday, JUN 19, 19:00

Friday, JUN 20, 1:00

Brazil Australia

Spain Japan

VS Arena da Baixada - Curitiva

Monday, JUN 23, 17:00

Monday, JUN 23, 13:00

México Holland

Colombia Italy

Arena Pantanal - Cuibaba

Arena das Dunas - Natal

Tuesday, JUN 24, 16:00

Chile Greece

Tuesday, JUN 24, 13:00

Ivory Coast Costa Rica

Arena Pernambuco - Recife

Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo

Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte

Monday, JUN 23, 17:00

Monday, JUN 23, 13:00

Tuesday, JUN 24, 17:00

Tuesday, JUN 24, 13:00

Positions

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

SECOND STAGE

Australia Ivory Coast

Arena Das Dunas - Natal

Estadio Nacional - Brasilia

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

Match 49

Match 50

Match 53

Saturday, JUN 28, 13:00

Saturday, JUN 28, 17:00

Second B First C Second D First E Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte

/ / / /

1 2 3 4 Match 54

Second F First G

Estadio Nacional - Brasilia Monday, JUN 30, 13:00

Match 57

QUARTER FINALS

VS Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Cameroon

Second H Estadio Beira-Rio Porto Alegre

Monday, JUN 30, 17:00

Match 58

Winner 49 Winner 50 Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Winner 53 Winner 54 Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro

Friday, JUL 4, 17:00

Friday, JUL 4, 13:00

Match 61 SEMI FINALS

Greece Uruguay

Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte

First A

Holland Colombia

Group D

Arena Fonte Nova - Salvador

Brazil

Croatia

Group C

Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo

México

GROUP STAGE

Group B

PLAY-OFF FOR T

Winner 57 Winner 58 Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte Tuesday, JUL 8, 17:00

Loser 61

Estadio Naciona

Saturday, JUL 1

FINA VS

Winner 61 Estadio do Maracana Sunday, JUL

Chart Brazil 2014 Group E

Switzerland

group F Ecuador Argentina

Portugal Belgium

Algeria

Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro

Arena Fonte Nova - Salvador

Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte

Sunday, JUN 15, 13:00

Sunday, JUN 15, 19:00

Monday, JUN 16, 13:00

Tuesday, JUN 17, 13:00

France

Honduras Iran

Nigeria Ghana

USA Russia

Estadio Beira - Porto Alegre

Arena da Baixada - Curitiba

Arena Das Dunas - Natal

Arena Pantanal - Cuiaba

Sunday, JUN 15, 16:00

Monday, JUN 16, 16:00

Monday, JUN 16, 19:00

Tuesday, JUN 17, 18:00

Switzerland

France Argentina

Iran Germany

Ghana Belgium

South Korea

Russia

Arena Fonte Nova - Salvador

Estadio Mineirao - Belo Horizonte

Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro

Friday, JUN 20, 16:00

Saturday, JUN 21, 13:00

Saturday, JUN 21, 16:00

Sunday, JUN 22, 19:00

Honduras

Ecuador Nigeria

Bosnia H. USA

Portugal South Korea

Algeria

Arena da Baixada - Curitiba

Arena Pantanal - Cuiaba

Arena Amazonia - Manaus

Estadio Beira-Rio - Porto Alegre

Friday, JUN 20, 19:00

Saturday, JUN 21, 18:00

Sunday, JUN 22, 15:00

Sunday, JUN 22, 13:00

Honduras

Switzerland Nigeria

Ecuador

Argentina USA

Arena Pernambuco - Recife

Wednesday, JUN 25, 13:00

France Bosnia H.

Germany South Korea

Estadio Beira-Rio - Porto Alegre

Wednesday, JUN 25, 16:00

Thursday, JUN 26, 13:00

Iran Portugal

Thursday, JUN 26, 17:00

Ghana Algeria

VS Estadio Nacional - Brasilia

Arena da Baixada - Curitiba

Wednesday, JUN 25, 17:00

Wednesday, JUN 25, 13:00

Thursday, JUN 26, 13:00

Thursday, JUN 26, 17:00

Positions

Match 51

First B

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

Match 52

Second A First D

Estadio Castelao - Fortaleza

Arena Pernambuco - Recife

Sunday, JUN 29, 13:00

Sunday, JUN 29, 17:00

Second C First F

Match 55

Match 56

VS Tuesday, JUL 1, 17:00

Match 60

Winner 51 Winner 52 Arena Fonte Nova - Salvador

Winner 55

Winner 56

Estadio Nacional - Brasilia

Saturday, JUL 5, 17:00

Second G

Arena Fonte Nova -Brasilia

Tuesday, JUL 1, 13:00

Match 59

OR THIRD PLACE

/ / / /

1 2 3 4

Second E First H Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo

Russia

Arena Fonte Nova - Salvador

/ / / /

Belgium

Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo

Estadio do Maracana - Rio de Janeiro

1 2 3 4

Bosnia H. Germany

Group H

Estadio Nacional - Brasilia

Arena Amazonia - Manaus

Group G

Saturday, JUL 5, 13:00

Match 62 VS

Loser 62

acional - Brasilia

Winner 59 Winner 60 Arena de Sao Paulo - Sao Paulo Wednesrday, JUL 9, 17:00

y, JUL 12, 17:00

INAL

Winner 62 cana - Rio de Janeiro

JUL 13, 16:00

DESTINATION GUIDE / BRAZIL

As all eyes turn to Brazil for the World Cup, Amanda Barnes invites you to visit some of the big host cities during the games.

RIO DE JANEIRO Probably the city people think of first when they think of Brazil, Rio is undoubtedly iconic. Humped hillsides, white sand beaches and swathes of beautiful people characterize the city that doesn’t sleep. But there is more to Rio than the beach, the parties and the samba.

Christ the Redeemer - Rio de Janeiro

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist who started her South American journey five years ago with four months in Brazil. She learnt to make her first good caipirinha in the back of a bar in Paraty with a passion fruit the size of her head. Ever since then, she’s been hook, line and sinker for Brazil (when she isn’t living with Malbec-tinted glasses in Argentina). www.amandabarnes.co.uk @amanda_tweeter

monkeys and toucans are some of the local resident. Once you get to the top reward yourself with a cool beer as you take in the awesome view.

SANTA TERESA This is the bohemian part of Rio where people come to play bossa nova, eat feijoada and let their hair down in this attractive hilltop town. Catch the old tram from downtown up there and spend a relaxing afternoon or early evening meandering the cobblestone streets and catching whiffs of comforting bean stews and soul lifting notes of bossa. Head back down later at night for a few beers and good times in Lapa district, which is packed with bars, beer sheds and numerous salsa clubs.

Selaron steps Sugarloaf

CENTRO SUGARLOAF This unusual hill formation is a number one attraction for the views it offers you over Rio city, but rather than catching the lift up to the top, consider trekking your way to the lofty heights of Sugarloaf. While you probably need the exercise to burn off all the sugar-laden caipirinhas you’ll inevitably knock back, the walk is also rewarding for all the wildlife that will greet you on the way:

This is where you get an insight into modern Brazil: futuristic architecture, busy commerce and lots of people. You won’t want to spend too much time here, but it is worth a visit to check out the pyramidshaped Cathedral (catedral.com.br), the Centro Cultural in an old bank (culturabancodobrasil. com.br) and Arco de Teles, a historical old town oasis in the middle of a concrete jungle which offers an insight into the past and some of the best happy hours in Centro.

Cathedral of Saint Sebastian

SAO PAULO A cultural capital of Brazil, Sao Paolo is a big, modern city with all the trimmings. Home to 22 million people, the city is not small… it is the most populated in South America and it expands further than the eye can see on the horizon.

Octávio Frias de Oliveira Bridge

IPANEMA You might just find yourself humming the song, because the girls from Ipanema are certainly eyecatching. As are the boys. And don’t they all know it. As people parade around the streets in their bathing suits you wonder just how much less they can get away with wearing, until you reach the beach where it is flesh-central. These are the prettiest beaches in the city and get crowded on a Summer’s day with beach-lovers, people spotters, musicians and food sellers taking up every inch of sand. The chaos and the buzzing atmosphere is all part of the charm. The streets of Ipanema offer a little bit of calm respite with posh shops, fancy bars and more lycra-clad moving manikins.

Ipanema beach

MUSEUMS Sao Paulo is filled with museums, galleries and art spaces. Here are just a couple to start your list with: the Museu do Ipiranga and Memorial da America Latina will delivery on history and architectural appeal; Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo, Pinacoteca do Estado, Museu de Arte Moderna and Museu de Arte Contemporanea are just a handful for art lovers; Weathervane Cultural Science Museum will keep the kids happy; and the Julio Prestes Cultural Centre is the home to the Symphony Orchestra.

Memorial da America Latina

DETOUR ISLA GRANDE If you think the city beaches are idyllic, take a trip to Isla Grande. Only 150kms from Rio, this is a still unspoiled island where you can watch the world slowly pass by from the comfort of a hammock. There’s no rush here and no reason to do anything more than just enjoy this pristine piece of Atlantic rainforest; time out by the gorgeous sea, sand and surf; and have a few caipirinhas over the course of the afternoon!

Isla Grande

EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY Sao Paulo has possibly the most exciting food scene in South America with some of the world’s best restaurants located here. There are no shortage of great places to eat and they range from the very expensive top restaurants, to delicious (and just slightly more pocket friendly) delights at the main market. Afterwards head to the bars to carry on the night in true Brazilian style, Rua Aspicuelta is one of the more popular bar and going out areas.

LIBERDADE JAPANESE NEIGHBOURHOOD

there are plenty of bars to quench your thirst and street food to appease your tummy.

With the biggest population of Japenese people outside of Japan, this is a mini Tokyo in the heart of Sao Paulo. If you are a fan of sushi - this is the place for you. Challenge yourself to eat an entire sushi boat in one sitting!

Salvador (Bahia)

Liberdade gates

Old Town, Pelourinho

DETOUR PARATY A six hour bus from Sao Paulo, this fisherman’s village is an idyllic spot with a pretty bay, beautiful colonial houses on cobbled streets, and an arty and bohemian vibe. Many people visit Paraty for a long weekend or mid-week getaway to indulge in some live bossa music late into the night after a stomach pleasing meal in one of the many good restaurants. The rainforest behind offers good trekking, waterfalls and wildlife if you need a break from the beach.

PONTA DE HUMAITA This little spit with a historical church offers great views over Salvador bay and is the perfect place to watch the sunset over the city and sea.

Historial churck - Ponta de Humaita

Isla Grande

SALVADOR (BAHIA) Further north in Brazil, this is the homeland of Carnival and parties with an authentic Bahian vibe. A stronger connection to Brazil’s African identity means that the music is more hip-shaking, the hair is stacked higher on the head and many women will wear striking traditional Afro-Brazilian Bahian dress.

OLD TOWN, PELOURINHO As Brazil’s oldest capital, from 1549, Salvador has some of the most beautiful colonial architecture. A walk around the Old Town and its many cobblestone squares is the perfect way to spend an evening and

DETOUR MORRO DE SAO PAULO

An island paradise reached after a two hour boat ride from Mercado Modelo in Salvador, you can easily disappear on Morro. Palm tree fringed beaches, lively beach parties and pretty much nothing else makes Morro a ‘switch off from the world’ haven.

Palm tree island - Morro

OTHER LOCATIONS

São Francisco de Assis Church

The games will be played in a number of other locations in Brazil. Here’s a summary of the less-travelled roads:

NATAL A modern-northern city that was founded on Christmas Day, Natal is renowned for great beaches with warm, calm waters, sand dunes and you can even spot dolphins off some coastlines. This is also where the dance forró really comes to life. Don’t miss evening classes or dances in the many forró bars and schools.

Dancing Forró

FORTALEZA A large and ever-growing city in the north, whose main attractions are the fabulous sand-dune beaches where surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing rule the waves and skies. Iracema beach is the most popular for bathers. In the city, wander to the Cathedal area for the open air food and clothes market.

Iracema beach

CUIABÁ In the middle of Brazil’s cowboy country, Cuiabá is the portal for splendid nature-spotting in the Pantanal and the start to the Amazon. There is canoeing, hiking and waterfalls to explore but it’s the native residents that draw the most attention: jaguars, monkeys, macaws, tarantulas and more! The city itself is the smallest host city and you’ll find the restaurant and bar scene very central and easy to navigate.

MANAOS The capital of the Amazon, this is the stop off point for the world’s largest jungle. The amazing wildlife nearby is the main attraction, but there is also a huge opera house, and river beaches and waterfalls, and the new indigenous, weaved basket-style stadium where the World Cup games are being held is nothing short of impressive.

Chapada-dos-Guimarães

Amazon indigenous

BELO HORIZONTE

RECIFE

Belo Horizonte is a modern city, so modern in fact that the Catholic Church at first refused to consecrate the ultra-modern São Francisco de Assis Church (which looks more like a fancy airport). It has been accepted now, and if people aren’t coming to see this unusual church, they’ll be heading here for the good bar scene in the city and the pretty colonial towns nearby.

Known for having some of the longest city beach in Brazil, it is perhaps no surprise that local sharks love the beaches here too… enter the water at your own risk! When you aren’t dallying with the local aquamarine residents, this modern city has plenty of restaurants, bars and cultural centres to keep you entertained. Antiguo Recife is the old town neighbourhood best visited in the evening.

Recife beach A TASTE OF BRAZIL IN BA Can’t make it to the games but still want to catch some of that Brazilian vibe? Here are your best spots for Brazilian bounty in Buenos Aires. BOTECO DO BRASIL Down to earth, home-style cooking is at the heart of this Brazilian-owned (and cheffed) Palermo joint. Expect classics like Pastel Carne, Bolinha de queijo, Feijoada (bean and meat stew) and Fish Moqueca (coconut fish stew). Boteco do Brasil, Honduras 5774, Palermo Hollywood (11, 3979-2970). Lunch & Dinner Tues.- Sun. ME LEVA BRASIL

BRASILIA The capital of Brazil, even though you might never have heard of it… This square metropolis in the vast Brazilian countryside was built in the mid-50s and the design reflects it with some seriously post-modern architecture and a cathedral shaped like a crown of thorns. The impressive modern buildings have earned it UNESCO world heritage status.

They have slightly odd opening schedules in the week, but come Friday, Saturday, Sunday this Palermo restaurant is ready to take you to Brazil with typical dishes like prawn stew, beef strogonof and of course Feijoada served all afternoon and evening. Me Leva Brasil, Costa Rica 4488, Palermo Viejo (11, 4832-4290)

Cathedral - Brasilia

SUNDAY FORRO AT FOYNES BAR If you need a place to get your forró on (a typical Brazilian dance if you missed the gag), then Foynes is the place to go on a Sunday night. Class starts at 9.30, but dancing carries on till much later in the night often with a live band. Foynes Bar, Niceto Vega 4984, Palermo Soho. (15 6455 1548) LAMBAZOUK AND MALUCO BELEZA DISCO Brazilians do like to party, and this energetic disco has a mix of Brazilian-Rock-Reggae-Cachengue to mention a few genres… What stands out though for real Brazilian flavour are the Lambazouk (Lambada mixed with Brazilian zouk) classes every Friday and Sunday night, followed by a disco to show off your moves. Wednesdays they have a show dinner where the feijoada dinner is free when you order drinks. Maluco Beleza Disco, Sarmiento 1728, Center (11, 4372-1737). Open Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun (malucobelezadisco.com)

PORTO ALEGRE This busy modern city is a big shopping area and beef capital for its famous churrascaria (BBQ) scene. There is busy nightlife here, good hikes nearby and Brazil’s main ‘wine country’ is only two hours away.

CURITIBA With immigrants from all over, this city has a series of fountains and memorials dedicated to different peoples: Jerusalem, Arab, Japan, Italian, you name it… it’s probably here. This also gives it great variety in cuisine and an eclectic bar scene. As the greenest city in Brazil, much of Curitiba is focused on sustainability and the area is also renowned for great parks and nature trails.

Curitiba National Park

Blue is my colour until my last breath. There’s the ritual, the most amazing and weird lucky charms, I know all of us Argies have one Argentina is football, I didn’t understand it at first, until I felt it. The reason? Not worth mentioning. The result? Smiling at everyone who wears that unique blue, listening to my neighbour uttering the word “goal” with the same excitement as I do. The way others greet you the following day either with a joke or a congratulations, either way, here, in my country, football is both for men and women, of course, they think we don’t know that much about it, but we do, we certainly do.

Sol Cifre is a self-admitted workaholic.

With the passing of time, I understood it all. A sense of belonging. A colour, a team, a bond, a cathartic scream of goal! Little by little, my passion for football grew. It blossomed and I felt I belonged.

She is born and raised Argentinean but finds that English is the ‘language of her soul’. As well as writing poetry, short stories and novels, she is an English teacher.

There was a time when I thought football was actually...nothing at all. There was a time when I believed that football was an odd sport, you know, a bunch of guys following a poor ball.

Scribbles from a Somm...

The World Cup is coming... Are you ready to celebrate ? Imagine that your country is the world champion; don´t you think you should be prepared to celebrate? And how would you do it? Well I have to be honest, I´m not a football lover, but when it comes to celebrating, a sommelier can be useful. On this occasion, I have chosen some sparkling wines to celebrate your team winning the game, or perhaps to help you commiserate. BOHÈME LUIGI BOSCA BRUT NATURE - The champion of elegance. $380 This gives you a sparkling wine together with a delightful feeling, because it has a great structure and complexity, but leaves room for subtle freshness of sparkling wine. The grapes come from Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, and the vineyards are older than 50 years old. It is a traditional champenoise method sparkling wine made from Pinot Noir (aged in barrels), Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.

CRUZAT CUVEÉ RESEVE NATURE - Majestically structured.

$170

With a good balance between a cooling sensation and the strength of a foaming complexity, this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Made by the traditional champenoise bottle fermentation method’, you’ll still notice yeast notes from a significant contact with the lees over 24 months.

Daniela Fernandez is a wine lover from La Plata and is currently Sommelier at Francis Mallmann 1884 in Mendoza. She is used to drinking on the job. Dana_Fernandez

LUIS REGINATO EXTRA BRUT CHARDONNAY-TORRONTÉS - Beautiful freshness and good money’s worth! $105

If you want something light, fresh and fruity, this is one of the best examples to get your money’s worth. An easy drinking sparkling wine, that won’t disappoint. Its fruity notes are remarkable and persistent bubbles make it a very interesting sparkling wine; developed by a family with vast experience. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Torrontes by Charmat method.

DESEADO FAMILIA SCHREORDER - Especially for sweet tooths.

$90

The very fruity nose is almost like a perfume in this sweet sparkling wine made from the Torrontés grape by Charmat method. It is extremely user-friendly and soft and sweet in the mouth. I must admit that although it is not new to the market, it remains very original. If sweetness is your pleasure, I’m sure you’ll love this sparkling wine!

NIETO SENETINER BRUT NATURE - Fresh and complex.

$95

With a very nice color that’s almost a tenuous rose. The complex nose combines fruit and toast, and this sparkling has good acidity and harmonious, lasting bubbles. Made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Charmat method.

At least if your team does not win, you’ll have a nice bottle of sparkling wine in order to forget the result!

THE SPARKLING WINE DIARIES When she isn’t popping corks or enjoying fizz trickle down her throat, she is wishing she was. Fortunately for her drinking has become part of her work requirement and you can read her wine articles on www.amandabarnes.co.uk or www.thesqueezemagazine.com @amanda_tweeter

Amanda Barnes is a self-admitted sparkling wine addict.

The Riddler, The Monk and The Robot Have you ever wondered how bubbly gets, well, bubbly? Amanda Barnes takes us through the snap, crackle and pop of sparkling wine and meets a riddler, a monk and a robot along the way.

Popping corks and letting foamy Champagne bubble over glass tops (or necking the pre-mature fizz quickly from the excited bottle top) is a quintessential part of a good party. Sparkling wine is fun, frothy and makes you feel fabulous. No one can resist a bit of bubbly, even those extraterrestrials that don’t drink wine will down a glass of Champagne when the occasion calls. Aside from the hiccups and an instant blood transfusion of happiness, there is a lot more to sparkling wine then meets the blurry eye. Getting the bubbles into the wine is an art form that has taken centuries to master.

How do you get bubbles in the bubbly? As a modern drinker that has grown up in the age of soda stream and panda pop, the most obvious way to make something sparkle would be by carbonating it. It doesn’t take a miracle to turn the sparkle in water to sparkle in wine, and that is how it happens in the cheapest fizzy plonk. If you imagine the lowest shelf on the supermarket, the one that beggar’s belief at only $30 pesos – this is the sort of wine that has had carbon (CO2) injected into it. This would be your Baywatch equivalent: fun, bubbly, cheap entertainment that has been artificially inflated. On the other end of the spectrum we get the most revered and the oldest method for sparkling wine: the traditional ‘champenoise’ method. The most expensive, the longest lasting and the one that was, like many good things in life, discovered completely by accident. The legend goes that in 1697 an old monk was busy in his monastery attending to his fine bottles of monk-made wine and swigging a few along the way (monks may lead a solitary

life, but it was certainly a merry one!) The monk opened one of his bottles, and to his amazement it came out fizzy! He drank the miraculous nectar and allegedly cried out to his monastery colleagues ‘Come quick, I am drinking stars!’ And so the fairytale of the discovery of Champagne began. The science behind the discovery is that when active yeast is left in a wine bottle with sugar it produces CO2 (aka. lovely bubbly). The simple chemical reaction is sugar + yeast = alcohol + CO2. It is the same process you use for making still wine, although when done in a closed environment (like a bottle) all the CO2 gas is captured. The trapped CO2 bubbles can be released in a delightful pop of a cork, a sizzle in the glass and a fizzle on the tongue. Or they can be released when the pressure becomes too much, and the bottle – or top - explodes. This simple bubble science is how Formula One winners have so much post-race fun. The truth behind the star-studded story of the monk’s discovery is actually that he was hopping mad with all these exploding bottles in his cellar, ruining his wine and destroying the peace of the monastery. The fact that this monk’s name was Dom Perignon made this slightly problematic for a certain

Champagne brand later down the line… After the work of a talented spin-doctor in the 19th century, the truth got a bit of fairy dust and became all about sparkle and enchanted discovery. Dom Perignon was now the pioneer and poster boy of Champagne and the multi-billion dollar Champagne industry was born.

Somewhere in-between champenoise and carbonation are the tank (charmat) method and transfer method: modern ways of getting a traditional-style second fermentation in greater quantity, with less hard work. Let’s call them Robocop 1 & 2.

The fact that the English had been making sparkling wine since 1662 (some 30 years before Dom P got frustrated with his popping bottles) still remains a thorn in the side for the French legend, completely au contraire to the story Champagne houses like to give you. Even other parts of France (outside the Champagne boundary) will negate the famed region’s claim to the discovery. Carcassonne in Southern France proclaim that they were the very first to discover sparkling wine in the 1530s, over a century before the English. All these claims to the invention of bubbly are rather comme ci comme ça. The important bit is that this was the first method for sparkling wine and is still being made today, in a very traditional and painstaking process.

The tank method (aka charmat) is - as expected from the name - where the second fermentation is not done in a bottle, but rather in a pressurized tank. This is the method for many midpriced sparkling and fruity wines like Prosecco and Lambrusco in Italy.

The champenoise method, with the second fermentation in the bottle, requires a lot of manual labour and at least a few months in the winery (or sometimes over 5 years) to make it. This is where the role of The Riddler comes in. One of the most under-appreciated figures in sparkling history, the riddler is the person that has to spend months in a dank, cold cellar turning each bottle 90 degrees once a day to steadily collect and settle the dead yeast at the bottom of the bottle to be later popped out.

Once the bubbles are created though, the work isn’t done. You need to add a dosage (a sugar mixture) to sweeten it to your final taste. All of this meddling must to be taken into mind by the winemaker from the beginning, as he has to make the base wine in the first place imagining what it will taste like after second fermentation and the added dosage. Another superhero of the sparkling wine world.

The riddler – as if he wasn’t lacking acknowledgement enough – has been replaced to some extent by machine now, but many producers prefer the hand-turned technique and machines are often more expensive than hiring a person. All the attention to meticulous details is why ‘champenoise’ is the most expensive method, but also renowned as the best for its fine bubbles and special tertiary aromas like baked bread, brioche, truffle and hazelnuts. This is the James Bond of sparkling wine.

Finally, the transfer method involves making a sparkling wine in the bottle the traditional way, then transferring it into a tank and re-bottling it. This method seems like a lot of work… and it is! But the advantages are making a more consistent wine (without variation between bottles) and giving the complexity of a traditional champenoise method wine that has benefited from lees aging.

Making fizz is not as easy as it first seems. So while popping a cork on a bottle of bubbly is fantastically simple, next time you are spritzing it in the air and all over the frenzied crowd (or disdainful girlfriend) remember all the people, history and effort that goes into that lovely jubbly bottle of bubbly.

BUBBLY T IPS If you thought you love Champagne, spare a thought for the ever-soslightly delirious Marie Antoiniette who had such a fondness for the sparkling stuff that she got a special glass shape made in the form of her breast. Champagne can only come from certain grapes from the small Champagne region in France (33,500 hectares spread over 319 villages). So if you see Champagne on an Argentine bottle, it most certainly isn’t Champagne, just incorrectly labeled Sparkling Wine. If you seem foxed by how some sparkling wines are sweet while others are dry, pay attention to this key words which are the giveaway for the dosage (sugar concentrate) added at the end: ranging between Brut Nature (0-3 sugar), Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Sec, Sec, Demi Sec, up to Doux (sweet = 50+grams of sugar per litre). Contrary to when you open a normal bottle of wine, the proper way to open a sparkling wine is by turning the bottle and not the top. Sparkling wine isn’t just for cocktail hour and canapés, try your next bottle with fried chicken and tell me you don’t love it! Go with texture when pairing sparkling wine, think caviar and popcorn and light fish and seafood dishes are always classics.

A free app guide to Mendoza´s wineries, wines and regions !

www.thesqueezemagazine.com/app

Palermo has a myriad of handsome galleries, pretty design shops, painfully cool cafes and bars, steak-loving restaurants alongside achingly green vegan hotspots, and the occasional drunk hen party stumbling through the streets. The nucleus of all this activity is Palermo Soho, centered around Plaza Serrano. Weekdays are calmer but from Friday afternoon till Monday morning, Soho buzzes with pleasure seekers, coffee drinkers and knickknack shoppers. There are countless places to eat, drink, buy and be merry, but here are a couple gems.

By Amanda Barnes

PLAZA SERRANO Love it or hate it, this is the hub of activity in Palermo Soho. Historically a bohemian neighbourhood frequented by the likes of Jorge Luis Borges (who has a street named after him here), it is now rather more gentrified and touristy but it still provides good entertainment for everyone with a kids playground; numerous markets selling all sorts of artisanal products, gifts and art to delight shoppers; and bars all around to keep the dads and boyfriends happy.

PEOPLE WATCHING If you are an avid people-watcher, this is the spot for you. Take a pew at one of the many outdoor bars and feast the eyes on trendy porteños, camarapacking tourists and meandering families who all come here in their droves on the weekends.

A taste of Asia, Camboya

COLOURS FROM ASIA (AND ARGENTINA) Camboya (El Salvador 4817) brings the vibrant colours of Asia to Soho with colourful clothes, jewelry and gifts from many different countries in Asia and the Middle East. You can get yourself kitted out in full dress and accessories and have that ‘just came back from travelling India’ look without stepping outside of Palermo. If you want to go for a more ethnic Argentine look, right next door is Take It (El Salvador 4815) where you can get dressed in equally bright colours and accessories that all come from the North of Argentina and are made by different artisan producers.

Dulce de Leche at La Salamandra

FULL CITY COFFEE HOUSE With fantastic Colombian coffee, this small coffee shop is a mecca for expats who need their caffeine drip and locals who come for an espresso to go, or stay for the Colombian breakfasts. Good wifi and a stack of magazines to peruse make it a great stopover in Soho. Thames 1535.

GIVE ME MORE DULCE DE LECHE! If you find yourself with an insatiable addiction, La Salamandra might just save the day. With a Dulce de Leche farm in Lujan (90kms away), you can taste the buttery goodness in their Dulce de Leche and Mozzerella bar in Palermo. Sweet treats and cheese delights line the shelves or you can buy supplies to take home. El Salvador 4761.

Full House Coffee

Manuela Malasana

Full City Coffee house Mission Manuela Malasaña

Plaza Serrano Santa Eva

Puntocuc Take it Camboya La Salamandra

PUNTOCUC If you want to get an idea of how much of a commodity imported goodies have become, just step into this modern food shop where you’ll see coconut milk and English tea displayed as if it were fancy perfume or crystal. Quite rightly so as almost every long-term expat will value foreign goods almost as much as a diamond earrings after living in a country where even getting hot sauce becomes an arduous task. Jorge L. Borges 1732.

Market at Plaza Serrano

Mission

SANTA EVA A covered market next to Plaza Serrano with a bar in the heart of it, this is the perfect spot for a bit of boozy shopping with a fernet and cola in hand. There are also regular live music and milongas in the evenings. Drink and shop with caution, Playground BA holds no responsibility for drink-induced purchases. Serrano 1551.

MISSION If you are into your leathers, this shop is the outlet of a large leather factory in Cordoba. Producing highquality cow hides that are made into handbags, throws and carpets, this is a leather-lovers haven, and perhaps PETA’s nightmare. Pasaje Russel 5009.

Plaza Serrano

Photos taken by Amanda Barnes

A modern take on a tasca, Manuela Malasaña serves up Spanish style pintxos, long weekend brunches and teas and coffees served inside a pretty café-resto-bar with warm staff and retro furnishings. One of the many lovely spots in Soho to meet up with friends for an afternoon. Manuela Malasaña, Costa Rica 4818.

SECTOR MAP

Written by Amanda Barnes Amanda is a British journo who has been delighting in Mendoza’s wine scene and vineyards for longer than her liver would like to admit. www.amandabarnes.co.uk

A TOUCH OF TASCA RETRO AND TEA

F-2 F-3 G-2 G-3

Santa Eva

Welcome to Argentina: the land of pizza, pasta and parilla! There is so much more to Buenos Aires’ food scene though and this is a quick glance guide to some of the gastronomy gems you can discover in the city. Don’t forget that Argentineans dine late at night with most restaurants not opening much before 8pm and often still serving till gone midnight. Lunch is usually noon to 3pm. CASA CRUZ This restaurant has a long history of providing top quality food, and now having been taken back over by sommelier and foodie Aldo Graziani Casa Cruz is back on top of its game with some of the best steak in town and a more relaxed atmosphere. Perky jazz and an eclectic mix of music set the scene for this upscale yet unpretentious restaurant where you can order delicious cocktails or wine from a list that will take any wine lover at least an hour to pick from. Pick a red though because the best thing here is the steak: juicy with a distinctive, rich flavour hinged with herbal notes and a smoky finish – the secret of how they cook it remains in the kitchen. Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658 (between El Salvador and Honduras) Palermo (11) 4833 1112. $$$$ SARKIS Serving food as if it were in Armenia, and un-translated menus to match, this is a great spot for those on a budget who want to taste some proper Middle Eastern food. Busy, simple, and sometimes a bit rushed – this isn’t your spot for a fancy date but it will keep you happy with its keppe, big portions and unpretentious Armen-tinean flavours. Sarkis, Thames 1101 (between Jufré and Lerma), Villa Crespo (11) 4772 4911. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $ SUCRE Voted one of Latin America’s Top 50 restaurants, Sucre is not short of bookings. But if you get a table at this chic and minimalist restaurant in Belgrano, you are in for some of the best fusion food around town. Chef Fernando Trocca blends Mediterranean cuisine with Japanese, Peruvian and Argentine influences to create fresh and inspiring dishes. Using seasonal produce he is also a big fan of using every part of the renowned Argentine cow so expect to see some less

$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $

$ $ $ $ $

0 / 50 50 / 125 125 / 175 175 / 250 over 250

Pesos per person for average meal (main + starter/dessert, excluding drinks)

common cuts of meat. For a more pocket friendly experience of Sucre, try out their lunch menu which has 2 courses for $170. Sucre, Sucre 676 (between Figueroa Alcorta and Castañeda) Belgrano (11) 4782 9082. Reservations 24 hours previously online, open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$$$ BELLAGAMBA If you want a traditional Argentine ‘bodegon’ (tavern) Bellagamba is probably one of the most centrally located ones still sending out milanesas and jugs of wine at lunch time the same way it did since opening in 1900. Started by a couple Italian immigrants, the motive behind this bodegon is filling food and a place to eat in a cosy atmosphere. Cheap, cheerful and authentic. Bellagamba, Rivadavia 2183 (between Junin and Uriburu), Congreso (11) 49515833. Open daily 8 till mid afternoon. $$ BAR DU MARCHE A French-chic bistro with around 50 wines by the glass and a handful of different dishes including foie gras, fish carpaccio and lamb cooked in Malbec. While there is plenty of delectable bites served here, the main focus is on the wine. And not only for Argentine wines but also for a nice (but obviously small) selection of foreign wines. Ideal for winos who like a bit of cheese on the side as they also serve some of the best artisanal cheese in town, and the staff will happily pair it for you. Bar du Marche, Nicaragua 5946 (between Arevelo and Ravignani), Palermo (11) 4778 1050. Lunch & Dinner, Closed Sundays. $$$

PRICE GUIDE

RESTAURANT GUIDE

CHAN CHAN To step into Peru and the land of spice and ceviche, try out Chan Chan in the Congresso neighbourhood. With a simple décor and unpretentious service what shines is the fresh cuisine that brings a little taste of Lima into a dark street in Buenos Aires. Affordable and tasty. Chan Chan, Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390 (between San José and Santiago del Estero) Congresso (11) 4382 8492 Lunch & Dinner, Closed Mondays. $$ GREEN CURRY One of the number one foods an expat will moan about missing while living in Argentina is curry. A post pub staple for some at home, it’s surprisingly absent here in the Southern Cone. You can however cure your hangover or lunch time craving with a spicy (ish) curry in the city centre at this cheap and quick lunch spot. Thai curries and healthy wraps and salads never go amiss and service here is quick. Tucuman 271 (corner 25 de Mayo) Microcentro (11) 4312-8337. Mon – Fri Lunch. $ DON JULIO A classic parilla place in Buenos Aires, Don Julio is often on people’s ‘not to miss’ list for visiting the city and with packed tables almost every night you can see why. A rustic restaurant that doesn’t lend too much to the eye but the slabs of beef they serve will please any meat lover like a pig in muck. The wine trained servers will also be able to help you pick out a top choice Malbec to go with your steak. If you order one of the pricier bottles you’ll be asked to sign the bottle with your reflections on the meal to be displayed around the restaurant. Don Julio, Guatemala 4691 (corner Gurruchaga), Palermo (11) 4831 9564. Open daily Lunch & Dinner. $$$

SIAMO NEL FORNO

MUSEO DEL JAMON

CAFÉ SAN JUAN

Even though Argentina has a huge Italian influence, most of the pizza here can be disappointing with thick, spongy bases, an inch of plastic cheese and an inundation of grease. Siamo nel Forno however makes pizza like you’d expect it in Naples: thin crispy base, with a tasty splash of tomato and only a sprinkle of for formaggio. Cooked in a real wood oven you’ll be crying mamma mia over your margherita. Don’t miss trying the Nutella pizza for dessert.

This really is a museum to the glory of jamon, with cured ham legs swinging from the rafters that have come from high quality producers in Argentina and specialized producers from the mecca of jamon - Spain. Imported foodie goods are tough to get your hands on in Argentina, but the Museo have brought in different delicious jamones as well as salami and chorizo, and even the odd bottle of Spanish vino! It’s not just cured meats though - you can feast on seafood, shellfish, homemade pastas and paella, and one of their house specialties is suckling pig. The modern Puerto Madero location is also perfect for a harbor side walk afterwards.

Chef Leandro Cristobal is a skater and a tattoo aficionado and his unique personal style is reflected in his simple but adventurous dishes. With the menu scrawled on chalkboards and changing on an almost daily basis, this has become a firm favourite of Portenos and tourists so much so that a spin off sister restaurant has opened nearby on Chile 474 (La Cantina de San Juan). Tapas and typical Argentine dishes with a twist served in a relaxed setting in a retro-style diner.

Siamo nel Forno, Costa Rica 5886 (between Ravignani and Carranza) Palermo (11) 4775-0337. Dinner Tue – Sun. $$ EL BAQUEDANO While carne is king in Argentina, there are some other carnes that often get neglected while all eyes are on the revered cow. This restaurant celebrates all the other meats of Argentina: llama, chinchilla, wild boar, rheas and even alligator. It is Mar del Plata chef Fernando Rivarola who is championing the underside of Argentina’s carnivorous food culture and he does it with great style in a seven course tasting menu or a la carte. Don’t miss the llama carpaccio.

Museo del Jamon, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 (near Cochabamba), Puerto Madero, (11) 4300-5418. Mon - Sun, lunch & dinner. $$$$$

Café San Juan, San Juan 450 (between Bolivar and Defensa), San Telmo (11) 43001112. Reservations recommended. Open Lunch & Dinner. Closed Mondays. $$$

El Baquedano, Chile 495 (corner of Bolivar), San Telmo (11) 9 3671 8602. Dinner Tues – Sat. $$$$$

CLOSED DOOR RESTAURANTS

Essentially the Buenos Aires food trend of the past five years, closeddoor restaurants - where a chef opens up their home to cook for an intimate few - could be nearing saturation point. Although plenty of flavours and cuisines haven’t reached BA as yet, experience shows that with so many puertas cerradas to choose from, it’s best stick to those with established reputations for the best value-quality ratio. Note that these restaurants will generally only provide the address on reservation, might require a small deposit and only accept cash. The undisputed queen of closed doors is Christina Sunae from SouthEast Asian restaurant Cocina Sunae (www.cocinasunae.com). Although she wasn’t the first on the scene, US-born, Phillipines-raised Sunae has made the concept her own -and she holds it in spades: hosting at her Chacarita home, offering a communal table to larger parties, retaining smaller ones for couples requiring intimacy, a blinding Thai/Filipino/Vietnamese fourcourse menu that changes each week, one of the most competitive set menu prices in the city and dishes zipped up with chillis picked straight from her terrace garden. Other foreign cooks to make their mark on the closed-door scene include NOLA Buenos Aires (www.nolachef. net), courtesy of New Orleans transplant and bundle of energy Liza Puglia; Colombian Santiago Macías

brings Caribbean flair to Villa Crespo at I Latina (www.ilatinabuenosaires. com); and the long-established Casa Saltshaker from the able hands of North American Dan Perlman. Puertas cerradas aren’t just limited to expat chefs, however, and Argentines have been at the forefront of this trend. Main game players include Diego Félix’s Casa Félix, a splendid example of a pescatarian restaurant; 30 Sillas by Ezequiel Gallardo, offering contemporary twists on Argentine classics; Paladar (www. paladarbuenosaires.com.ar), run by an on-the-ball husband-and-wife team; and Casa Coupage (www. casacoupage.com), a sommelier-led affair dealing in modern Argentine cuisine. New face on the scene is Toro 777 (www.toro777.com) in Chacarita, a friendly and cute affair with a creative five-course menu that is one of the more economical such restaurants around. Of course, carnivores and herbivores are exclusively catered to as well. Adentro Dinner Club (www. adentrodinnerclub.com) flame-grills once a week while Steaks by Luis (www.steakbuenosaires.net) is a new addition on the scene. Those with an aversion to grilled meats should take a direct line to San Telmo and Jueves a la Mesa (www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com), the vegetarian, often vegan, brainchild of North American yoga teacher Meghan Lewis.

El gin artesanal argentino necesitaba una tonica artesanal que le haga compaĂąia.

conocelos a los dos en la casa de su creador tato giovannoni. floreria atlantico - arroyo 872 2013 drinks international best bar in latin america & caribbean

BAR GUIDE The nickname of a ‘city that doesn’t sleep’ doesn’t come from Buenos Aires’ office culture… but rather its addictive nightlife scene. Any night of the week you can head out for a few cocktails, a local brew or rave into dawn at a nightclub. Live music and nightclubs start late (11pm for music, 3am for nightclubs), but with a new crop of happy hours throughout the city your night can start relatively early. There is an exhausting number of bars and nightlife spots, but here is a selection of different types of bars to get you started. PUERTA UNO

VERNE COCKTAIL CLUB

Once a secret bar, the secret is pretty much out now about Puerta Uno but it still has that underground vibe as you turn up to the unmarked door and should remember the owner’s names – Robertino and Marcelo – just in case. Once in, the bar opens up to a series of patios with evolving decoration and a DJ keeping the atmosphere buzzing. Cocktails are the order of the night and the barmen do some convincing sake and fruit potions.

As the name suggests, this is a bar dedicated to creative cocktails. Opened last year, this Palermo bar is already drawing in good crowds who come for the neat twists on old classics. If you really have a hangover wish for the morning, try their absinth tasting menu.

Puerta Uno, Juramento 1667 (corner of Arribeños), Belgrano (Barrio Chino). (11) 4706 1522. Tues – Sat after 9pm.

GRAN BAR DANZON

SKY BAR The best known rooftop bar in the city, Sky Bar is on the 13th floor of Hotel Pulitzer in the city centre making it ideal for reaching some cooler Summer air and enjoying a view over the night city lights. A popular ‘after office’ spot and also ideal for downing a couple cocktails at sunset, although the DJ plays well into the night too. Sky Bar, Hotel Pulitzer, Maipu 907 (corner of Paraguay), Centre (11) 4316 0800, Daily after 5pm. FLORERIA ATLANTICO Entering through an afterhours florist-cumwine shop-cum-record store has to be one of the more unique entrances for a bar, and that’s the only way to get into this new bar and restaurant in Retiro. Owned by a top mixologist and a super sommelier, the drinks here are to die for of course, as are the tapas and food. Dedicated to the immigrant tribes of Argentina, you’ll find cocktails twisted with Italian Aperol, Spanish sherry, French cognac and English Earl Grey. A creative and cool spot for those who really know their booze. Floreria Atlantico, Arroyo 872 (between Suipacha and Esmeralda), Retiro (11) 4313 6093. Mon – Sat, 10am – 3am

Verne Cocktail Club, Medrano 1475 (corner of Costa Rica), Palermo (11) 4822 0980. Daily from 9pm till late.

One of the stalwarts of the bar scene, Danzon has been one of BA’s happy hour favourites since forever and everyone stays throughout the night for the good food, cool music and beautiful people. A bustling atmosphere and usually packed with people it is above ground level in the Recoleta neighbourhood. Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161 (between Santa Fe and Arenales), Recoleta, (11) 4811 1108, open daily from 7/8pm CAFÉ MARGOT A real treasure, Café Margot has a history stretching back to 1904 and a step into this bar/café feels like a step back into history with dusty bottled lined walls and lots of olde-worlde memorabilia. Beer is brewed here each morning and their homebrew is served throughout the week, as is decent bar food. The waiters will rave about their turkey – which is served in countless sarnies here – and actually claim to have invented the turkey sandwich (just go along with it!)Unpretentious spot for a coffee and step back into a different century.

get tango, jazz, swing and anything else that has continued to sound good over the last few decades. Even the prices hark back to a time before. La Casa del Sr Duncan, Av Rivadavia 3832 (between Medrano and Salguero), Almargo, (11) 4958 3633. 8pm till late Tues – Sat. Check out their facebook/SeniorDuncan for listings. LA CIGALE One of the best music bars in the city centre, La Cigale has a bit of je ne sais quoi. Apart from the trendy French theme, they hit it right on the head with their live music which ranges from electro nights to vintage spinning, as well as a space upstairs for bands. If you get there early, indulge in the daily happy hour from 6 till 10pm. La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 597 (corner Tucuman), Centre (11) 4893 2332, Mon – Fri from 6pm, Sat from 9.30pm. LIVERPOOL Although the thought of Beatles paraphernalia might make you cringe, this Brit pop themed bar actually hosts some pretty decent live bands. With a proper stage equipped for musicians, most nights you get a band play and afterwards it turns into a nightclub. Liverpool Bar, Arevalo 1376 (between Cordoba and Alvarez Thomas), Palermo (11) 5355 7632. Mon – Sat nights. ALSINA

SR DUNCAN

It is fitting that BA’s best club is practically in a palace. With a capacity of up to 1500, Alsina is its own principality of party. The main floor is filled with a throbbing mass of clubbers will the upstairs balconies offer a little bit of respite and a good people spotting platform looking over the crowd. Alsina attracts international names and hosts a party every night of the week.

A converted mansion with a penchant for swing and tinkling piano notes, Sr Duncan is a handsome live music venue where you’ll

Alsina, Adolfo Alsina 940 (between Bernando de Irigoyen and Tacuari), Montserrat (11) 4331 3231. Daily from midnight.

Café Margot, Av. Boedo 857 (corner of San Ignacio), Boedo, (11) 4957 0001. Daily 8am till late.

By Amanda Barnes

Café TORTONI FOCUS

Buenos Aires has many beautiful old bars and cafes steeped in coffee stains and history - they are possibly what make the city most charming. The grande dame of BA’s cafes is Café Tortini. Started in 1858 by a French family from Bordeaux, the café was originally made to honour a café they had loved in their homeland. Like the café it was named after, Café Tortini in Buenos Aires also became a much-cherished place in the city centre. You only need to spend a few minutes perusing the many photos and signed pictures adorning the walls and you’ll see that this café has hosted some pretty famous faces. During the golden age of Argentine literature, the café was frequented by the city’s literati including Jorge Luis Borges and Alfonsina Storni, and even international renowned minds like Federico Garcia Lorca and Albert Einstein among others have taken tea at Tortini. So strong was the writers and intellectual scene in Café Tortini that three publications emerged from those four walls (El grillo de papel, El escarabajo de oro and El ornitorrinco). The tango and dance hall at the back also hosted

some famous feet in its time, and Carlos Gardel performed regularly on stage. Current owner Roberto (who has been tending the café for over 60 years) says it used to be the only sector that women were allowed in. “Men could get some peace and quiet everywhere else,” he says with a smile. The other relic of a time past is the old barbershop, where you’d come for your trim and a shave, a quick catch up on the gossip and of course a cup of coffee. It has pretty much stayed the same today, although no-one is getting a shave, just the gossip and coffee. The café has been immortalized in tango lyrics and it continues the tradition with daily tango shows and performances in the old theatre space every evening. Whether you are popping in for tango, breakfast, brunch, or lunch – it is easy to see Café Tortini’s timeless appeal.

BARES Café Tortini is one of 73 bars that have been declared NOTABLES ‘bares notables’ or noteworthy bars by the city

enjoyed for decades, including in particular Vermouth. Bar El Federal (Carlos Calvo 599), Café Margot (Boedo 857), Bar de Cao (Independencia 2400), Celta Bar (Sarmiento 1701) and Café La Poesia (Chile 502) all have a special Vermouth tapas taster where you can get a glass of a vermouth cocktail served with a little nibble on the side. Now that sounds like an invitation to bar hop around the notables!

cultural heritage group. Locations are dotted all over the city and offer a wonderful insight to BA’s bar past. As well as being historical buildings, some are trying to recapture a flavour of the past. A group of five bars in particular have come together to try and bring back some of the classic cocktails that have been

Gran Café Tortoni | Av. de Mayo 829, Monserrat (11) 4342-4328

WHERE TO FIND PLAYGROUND BUENOS AIRES 1555 Malabia House Hotel B&B - Malabia 1555 - Palermo 248 Finisterra - Báez 248 - Palermo/Cañitas 5411 Soho Hotel Spa - Thames 1565 Palermo Aldo´s - Moreno 372 - San Telmo America del Sur Buenos Aires Hostel - Chacabuco 718 - San Telmo Antares - Bolívar 491 - San Telmo Arribo Buenos Aires - Perú 291 - San Telmo Art Suites - Azcuénaga 1465 - Recoleta Art Suites & Gallery - Peña 2268 - Recoleta Asia de Cuba - Pierina Dealessi 750 Puerto Madero Atempo Design Hotel - Arévalo 1564 Palermo Ayres de Español - Gurruchaga 1851 - Palermo Ayres de Libertad - Libertad 1283 - Recoleta Ayres de Patagonia - Alicia Moreau de justo 1798 - Puerto Madero Ayres de Recoleta Hotel - Uriburu 1756 Recoleta Awwa Suites & Spa - Lafinur 3370 - Palermo Ba Sohotel - J. Luis Boges 2205 - Palermo Back in BA Hostel - El Salvador 5115 - Palermo Bar de Cao (Los Notables) - Av. Independencia 2400 - San Cristóbal Bar Du March - Nicaragua 5946 - Palermo Bar del Puente - Pierina Dealessi y Gorritti Puerto Madero Be Hollywood - Hunboldt 1726 - Palermo BE Hotel Buenos Ares - Venezuela 649 San Telmo Bebop Club - Moreno 364 - Monserrat Blakke - Juana Manso 1580 - Puerto Madero Blue Soho Hotel - El Salvador 4735 - Palermo Bohemia Buenos Aires Hotel B. - Perú 845 San Telmo Boho Rooms - Uriarte 1389 - Palermo Bolivia - Gurruchaga 1581 - Palermo Bolivia - Nicaragua 4908 - Palermo Buenos Aires Vintage - San Telmo Cabaña Las Lilas - Alicia M. de Justo 516 Puerto Madero Café La Poesía (Los Notables) - Chile 502 San Telmo Café Margot (Los Notables) - Boedo 857 Boedo Café Tortoni - Av. De Mayo 825 - Monserrat Casa Sur Art Hotel - Av. Callao 1823 Recoleta Celta Bar - Sarmiento 1701 - Centro Cuccina D´Onore - Alicia Moreau de Justo 1768 - Puerto Madero Dante Boutique Hotel - Cochabamba 514 Centro Dazzler Palermo - Hunboldt 1650 - Palermo Design CE Hotel de Diseño - Marcelo T de Alvear 1695 - Centro DF Mexican - Olga Cossettini 1611 Puerto Madero Divina Bolivia - Costa Rica 4670 - Palermo

El Bistro + Cava (Faena Hotel) - Martha Salotti 445 - Puerto Madero El Federal (Los Notables) - Carlos Calvo 595 - San telmo El Único Bar - Juana Manso 1601 Puerto Madero Faena Hotel Universe - Martha Salotti 445 Puerto Madero Fierro Hotel Boutique - Soler 5862 - Palermo Floreria Atlantico - Arroyo 872 - Centro Francesco Restaurant - Soler 5598 - Palermo Freddo - Juana Manso 1570 - Puerto Madero Galería Rubbers Internacional - Avda Alvear 1595 - Recoleta Gran Bar Danzon - Libertad 1161 - Centro Guido - Blvd. Cerviño 3943 - Palermo Hostel Inn Buenos Aires Humberto Primo 820 - San Telmo Hostel Tango Argentina - Chacabuco 747 - San Telmo Home Buenos Aires Hotel - Honduras 5860 - Palermo Hotel Babel - Balcarce 946 - San Telmo Hotel Boutique Bonito Buenos Aires - Chile 1507 - Centro Hotel Boutique Purobaires - Niceto Vega 4788 - Palermo ICentral Market - P. Dealessi esq. M. Guemes - Puerto Madero Il Sorpasso - Humberto Primo 478 - San Telmo Itamae Sushi - Olga Cosettini 1553 Puerto Madero Krista - Bomplant 1665 - Palermo L´Hotel Palermo - Thames 1562 - Palermo La Cabaña - Alicia M. De Justo 380 Puerto Madero La Parolacia Casa Tua - Alicia M. de Justo 276 - Puerto Madero La Poesía - Chile 502 - San Telmo Legado Mítico Buenos Aires - Gurruchaga 1848 - Palermo Lo de Joaquin Alberdi - J. Luis Borges 1772 - Palermo Lumio Café - Carlos Calvo 498 - San Telmo Lupita Mexican Bar - Olga Cossettini 1091 Puerto Madero MACBA Museo Arte Contemp. - Avda. San Juan 328 - San Telmo Malambo - Thames 2098 - Palermo MAMBA Museo Arte Moderno - Avda San Juan 350 - San Telmo Mansion Dandi Royal - Piedras 922 - San Telmo Maria Félix - Guatemala 5200 - Palermo Mariposita - Carlos Calvo 948 - San Telmo Mark´s Deli - El Salvador 4701 - Palermo Mayflower Suites - Paraná 720 - Centro Mine Hotel Boutique - Gorritti 4770 - Palermo Miravida Soho Wine Bar - Darragueyra 2050 - Palermo Moving Bike - Palermo Museo de la Ciudad - Defensa 219 - Centro

Museo del Jamón - Alicia Moreau de Justo 2020 - Puerto Madero Muu Lecheria - Armenia 1810 - Palermo Noa Noa Lofts (tbn Hotel Babel) - Bonpland 1549 - Palermo Nuss Buenos Aires Soho - El Salvador 4916 - Palermo Olaya - Humboldt 1550 - Palermo Osaka (Faena Arts Center) - Juana Manso 1164 Puerto Madero Own Palermo Hollywood - Jose Cabrera 5556 - Palermo Pain & Vin - Gorriti 5132 - Palermo Palermitano - Uriarte 1648 - Palermo Patio Japonés - Juana Manso y E. Escurra Puerto Madero Patios de San Telmo - Chacabuco 752 San Telmo Pepe Cantero (Main Store) - Honduras 4845 - Palermo Pepe Cantero (Outlet) - Gurruchaga 721 Palermo Persicco Heladería - Juana Manso 1100 Puerto Madero Pollock Hotel Boutique (lyns) - Costa Rica 4754 - Palermo Prodeo Hotel Lounge - Gorritti 5374 - Palermo Q´Arte Galleria - Humbolt 1981 - Palermo Reconquista Garden - Esmeralda 675 - Centro Reino del Plata - Hipolito Yrygoyen 647 Monserrat Rendez Vouz Hotel - Bonpland 1484 - Palermo Ribera Sur - Paseo Colón 1145 - San Telmo Rodizio - Alicia M. De Justo 838 - Puerto Madero Sagardi Suites - Humberto Primo 319 San Telmo San Telmo Luxury Suites - Chile 437 - San Telmo Serena Hotel - Libertad 1617 - Centro Simone - Olga Cosettini esq. E. Escurra Puerto Madero Solar Soler B&B - Soler 5676 - Palermo Sushi Club - Alicia Moreu de Justo 286 Puerto Madero Sushi Club - Petrona Eyle 471 - Puerto Madero Telmho Hotel Boutique - Defensa 1086 San Telmo Tiana Buenos Aires - Humberto Primo 629 San Telmo Torrecillas Soho - Godoy Cruz 1655 - Palermo Tre Design Apartments - Migueletes 1773 Palermo Tres Quarts by Rodizio - Pierina Dealessi 1130 - Puerto Madero Urbano Parrilla - Honduras 5499 - Palermo Vitrum Hotel - Gorriti 5641 - Palermo Voulez Bar - Cerviño 3802 - Palermo Yauss! - Estados Unidos 509 - San Telmo Watt Market - El Salvador 4622 - Palermo Winery - Juana Manso y M. Guemes Puerto Madero

If you want to have free copies of Playground Buenos Aires, please contact | editor@playgroundba.com Si quieres copias gratis de Playground Buenos Aires, por favor contactar | editor@playgroundba.com For an up to date list with new locations check out our website www.playgroundba.com

PLAYGROUND T IPS If you are new to BA it can seem a pretty daunting experience with 3 million inhabitants and a spread of over 200km2. Here are some tips to help you play safe in the playground that is Buenos Aires Buses are cheap, regular and easy (once you know which one to get on). Be aware that buses aren’t cash friendly, you’ll either need exact change in coins (tricky for a $5-6 peso fair) or get an electronic reduced tariff card SUBE (order it online or see a list of points of sale at www.sube.gob.ar), which you can charge at most metro stations. You’ll find a helpful bus route planner online at www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar Once you get on the bus you’ll quickly find yourself critiquing and praising the bus drivers’ personalized décor and memorabilia at the front of the bus. The metro system runs through some key points in the city from 5am till 10.30pm each day. Paying a cash fare here is easier with cashiers able to normally give you change, but a SUBE card (see above) will help you if you are here for more than a couple days. Buenos Aires is a great city to walk through and at foot pace you can really appreciate the personality of porteños and catch a glimpse into the homes and lives of many that you otherwise might not. Do however take care and don’t walk in poorly lit areas at night, or walk in areas that are infamous for petty crime (La Boca, Villa 31 (next to Retiro), Constitucion, Barracas to name a few). Always exercise caution with your belongings and avoid wearing flashy jewelry or opening fat wallets in public. There are two airports in Buenos Aires, and they are quite far from each other so get your airport right to avoid missing a flight! Also take care with connections as many carriers will make you change airports for ongoing flights so give yourself time to go from one to another. Aeroparque (mainly domestic flights) is the most central and only 10mins in a taxi to Palermo. Ezeiza (Ministro Pistarini) International Airport is the biggest and is about 45 mins away from the city centre by car. It is about an hour and a half between them and the most economic way without much hassle is by booking a private bus or taxi from www.tiendaleon.com or www. minibusezeiza.com.ar There is a public bus to Ezeiza (number 8, from Av. Independencia, Perú,Av. Belgrano, Av. De Mayo, Av. Rivadavia) but it takes a couple hours to get there. If you need a bigger form of transport that is wheelchair accessible, try contacting www.qrvtransportes.com.ar to get some wheels under your wheels! The blue dollar is no secret and exchanging dollars on the black market is easy enough with illegal traders swarming Florida street making it a piece of cake for even the most simpleminded tourist. Do however remember that it is illegal, and also that tourists sometimes get targeted immediately after exchanging by observant thieves. Unlike most of Latin America, emergency healthcare is free in Argentina. So if you find yourself in an emergency or need to see a doctor, try Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, La Boca) or Hospital de Clinicas (Av. Cordoba 2351, Barrio Norte). If you prefer to go private (quicker, often better healthcare) then try Hospital Aleman (Pueyreddon 1640, Recoleta) and bring cash.

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