Setesdal Ice Guide

An Oxford Alpine Club Guidebook

Ice climbing in Norway's Setesdal and Ă…seral regions

SETESDAL

by Geoff Hornby

Hovden

9

Dalen

Bykle

45

Amsdals Verk

38

Eistod

355

Valle

Brokke

41

Rysstad

337

9 Bygland

DAL

S SETE

Austad

ASER

41

AL Evje

42 Evje Froland

42

42

42 Arendal

41

43

Birkeland

9

Grimstad

9 Evje

E18

Kristiansand

Lillesand

134 40

N 36

0km

10km

20km

36

Tonsberg Skien

36

38

E18

Oslo Sandefjord Torp Airport

40



Porsgrunn

Drangedal

Sandefjord

356

418

Stavern Gjerstad

E18

38 Kragerø Drangedal

E18 North towards Oslo Services Oslo Sandefjord Torp Airport

E18

E18 South / West towards Kristiansand

OSLO SANDEFJORD TORP to SETESDAL via Rv38, Drangedal, Amsdals Verk & Rv45 250km to Valle – Allow approx 4.5-5.5 hours in winter.

CHECK CONDITION OF Rv45 PRIOR TO TRAVEL via Rv42, Evje & Rv9 320km to Valle – Allow approx 5 hours in winter.

CHECK CONDITION OF Rv42 PRIOR TO TRAVEL via Kristiansand & Rv9 360km to Valle – Allow approx 5-6 hours in winter.

This is an online sample. For the full book, go to www.climb-setesdal.com

SETESDAL

Ice climbing in Norway's Setesdal and Åseral regions

First Edition An Oxford Alpine Club Guide

by Geoff Hornby edited by Steve Broadbent ISBN 978-0-9567288-1-4

This edition published in 2012 by the Oxford Alpine Club. ©2012 Geoff Hornby & Steve Broadbent. All rights reserved.

A catalogue record of this book is available from the British Library.

Printed and bound in the UK by Butler, Tanner & Dennis, Somerset.

PLEASE READ THIS! Ice climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The areas described in this guide are adventurous destinations that are unsuitable for novice groups – routes here require relevant experience, skills, and careful judgement. This guidebook is a compilation of information collated in good faith, but some details remain unchecked, with descriptions provided by the first ascensionists. Information in this book may, therefore, be inaccurate and users should not treat it as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the publisher. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.

Front cover illustration: Paul Ramsden descending from Kyrelifjell, above Highway 45 after the first ascent of Snow Queen.

Rear cover illustration: James Cowley on the first ascent of Hydro Flossin'. Graham McDowell

Introduction - Contents

Climbing in Setesdal this winter?

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Introduction - Contents TABLE of CONTENTS Introduction Philosophy Setesdal – Some Background Information Âseral – Additional Information Maps Getting To Setesdal When To Visit Weather and Objective Dangers Wildlife Ethics Equipment Accommodation And Supplies Emergencies And Insurance Skiing Opportunities Routes And Climbing Grades A Brief History Of Setesdal Ice Climbing Recommended Climbs Different Climbing Opportunities Area & Crag Index

9 10 12 13 14 14 15 16 19 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 32 38 39 43

Introduction - Background Information THE OXFORD ALPINE CLUB The OAC was founded in Oxford in 1876 and has been continually active ever since. As a publisher we specialise in 'off-the-beaten-track' destinations, striving to promote those parts of the world where the climbing is second to none, and the spirit of adventure still very much exists. We are always looking for new authors, new projects, and new inspiration – so if you would like to join in, or you've got a 'black book' of routes that you would like to turn into a guidebook, then please get in touch by email or through our websites. publishing@oxfordalpineclub.co.uk www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk FOREWORD - by Steve Broadbent I will never forget my first visit to Setesdal. We were armed with an incomplete, text-only document vaguely describing a hundred or so ice climbs along the length of the valley; we were lured by the promise of world-class ice, short approaches, first ascents and an almost guaranteed lack of other climbers. I didn't really know what to expect.

Four days later I felt as if I had been let in on a great secret. Geoff's 'guidebook', so primitive in its first impression, seemed to reveal a unique, simple charm that had me curiously hooked. Something about this rural valley, and these routes, enchanted me and cast aside any doubts that I may have had about the place. In the evenings we pored over the guide; we enjoyed deciphering its tantalising content, looking for routes we could climb, and hints of routes which hadn't yet been climbed. The more we read, the more captivated we became.

This was everything I looked for in a climbing mini-break: it was great value, easy to organise, close to home, yet full of adventure. It was everything it had promised, and a little bit more. I got on to Geoff right away, and our work on this guidebook began.

From the outset, Geoff's down-to-earth words had given away just enough to hint at the raw character of Setesdal ice climbing. He and his team had stumbled upon a world-class destination and they'd evidently had an abundance of fun and adventure in its exploration. This guidebook, whilst providing a wealth of information for teams wishing to visit the valley for winter climbing, will hopefully portray a sense of that adventure, and the first ascent stories written by many of the key players in the valley's development add a fascinating insight into Setesdal's short climbing history.

Setesdal, of course, will not remain remote and untouched. It is already becoming established as a major centre for summer climbing, and its world-class winter potential will surely follow suit. In the meantime, however, I envy anyone making their first trip to the valley – it almost certainly won't be their last.

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Introduction - Background Information

8

Introduction - Background Information INTRODUCTION This guidebook has been produced to provide a record of all the winter icefall and mixed routes that have been climbed in the Setesdal and Åseral valley regions, and to provide an information source for people wishing to climb there.

I would like to thank the following people who have helped with the assembly and maintenance of this document – in particular: Alex Sammut, Nils Rune Birkeland, Paul Ramsden, David Wallis, Kevin Kelly, Len Atkinson, Susie Sammut, Paul Seabrook and Brian Davison.

I would also like to thank David Barlow for the photographic contributions to this production, Steve Broadbent for the editing and publishing work, and Jamie Wakeham and Katja Broadbent for their proof-reading.

The climbing extends through the entire Setesdal region from the lowlands around Evje in the south to the edge of the Hardangervidda in the north and through the valley region of Åseral. This provides a useful variety of snow and ice conditions, temperatures and weather conditions every day.

Climbing in Setesdal and Åseral is water-ice climbing in its rawest form.

There are no footprints or footpaths leading to the routes; many of the climbs are unrepeated and in some cases the grades have not been confirmed. Be prepared for trail-breaking in deep snow, for wading up to the start of the climbing and for awkward and thoughtful descents.

If you tire of climbing in busy environments, fighting for parking spaces and standing in another’s footsteps, then this valley will provide a welcome retreat for your adventures. If, however, you prefer hooking your tools in another’s placements or placing your screws in existing holes, then this environment may not be one that you enjoy.

The superb, adventurous nature of the climbing here comes with a price – you must be prepared to break trail through deep snow to the base of routes; you may be required to clear ledges or ramps on ice-routes of snow crust and rotten ice. You will certainly need to think about approaches and descents, and to evaluate avalanche and weather factors as part of your planning.

Whilst this enjoyment comes with a lot of hard work, it also produces memorable routes, memorable views and memorable climbing experiences. As Setesdal pioneer Paul Ramsden always says: "Another good day on the hill."

Welcome to Setesdal... a paradise of water-ice climbing where adventure is still very much the name of the game! These spectacular falls above the centre of Valle remain unclimbed at the time of going to press...

Steve Broadbent

9

Introduction - Philosophy

PHILOSOPHY This guidebook seeks to provide the climber and visitor to Setesdal and Ă…seral with enough basic information to allow the planning of a memorable wilderness climbing experience.

Ice climbing guidebooks are often faced with a fairly fundamental difficulty – that is that the objects of the guide are not permanent fixtures but ones which melt and form every year in different shapes and often slightly different positions. Hence, a route that was in superb condition on its first ascent may prove to be much more difficult on a second ascent, or vice versa.

This guidebook, therefore, is not definitive; the route descriptions are not exact, and climbers must make their own evaluations with respect to route grades, route conditions and the risks associated with approaches and descents.

10

Graham McDowell on the first ascent of Hydro Flossin' WI3 (page 82).

Jena Meinecke

Introduction - Philosophy

“Routes have appeared and disappeared from year to year and, despite having made well over 60 first ascents of waterice routes in this region, I am amazed every winter to see new ice-lines appearing and existing ice-routes failing to form.�

-Geoff Hornby

11

Introduction - Background Information

12

SETESDAL – Some background information Setesdal is an area of southern Norway that has a relatively small population but has a number of major Norwegian cities around its periphery. Bergen to the northwest, Stavanger to the southwest, Kristiansand to the south and Oslo to the far east all provide regular visitors to the region, though the main thoroughfare receives little traffic outside of the tourist seasons.

Indeed, it is not unusual to see the highway 9 without any traffic for ten minutes at a time. In winter the roads are only busy on Friday and Sunday evenings with movement of the tourist traffic from the Hovden and Brokke ski resorts.

Employment within the valleys is usually based around agriculture, hydroelectric power generation or local government and related services.

The winter visitor will see numerous small cabins and huttes in the mountain areas – these are invariably the second homes, or holiday homes, of Norwegian families based in the bigger cities. Some huttes are accessible by road, but many are only accessible in winter by ski or by snow machine. In order to minimise the environmental impact of snow machine use, access with machines is restricted by licence and through a system that restricts the number of times that a snow machine may be used in the winter period. The result of this is quite a joy for the visiting climber, as there is very little noise in the mountains.

The Otra river runs through Setesdal, connecting numerous lakes and draining the high ground south of the Hardangervidda. This river system has been transformed into a major hydro-electric generating system, and there are dams and hydro-electric turbine generators throughout the entire region. This has had a significant effect on the environment – the presence of dams, the interrupted movement of the water and the routine changes in the levels of the lakes have all changed the scenery, although the visual impact is thankfully fairly minimal. The only places where the effects are obvious are at the Botsvatn dam, where the changing water levels leave the ice covering on the lake collapsed and churned up, and in the lakes between Valle and Ose, where some lakes freeze and others do not, depending on the water movement.

The Setesdal valley runs north to south through the heart of the region.

This deep valley was cut by a glacier that left behind smooth granite slabs to a height of 800 metres on both sides of the valley. Over the last 20 years these smooth slabs have been developed as a climbing area, predominantly

by German climbers led by Hans Weninger, who has authored three guide books to the summer climbs of Setesdal. The excellent bolted routes on Loefjell, Nomelandsfjellet and the Silberwand are definitely worth a summer visit by those who like technical slab climbing.

Above the valley, both sides have rolling hills and mountains that contain

Introduction - Background Information many rock faces and small walls. These have been developed in summer

by Geoff Hornby, Nils Rune Birkeland and others to produce a traditional climbing environment free from fixed protection. The rock in these areas is not glacially polished and provides good natural protection. These routes are also contained in the Weninger guidebook, published by Panico Alpenverlag in Germany.

This high-country is covered with established footpaths and well-equipped mountain huts belonging to the Norwegian Trekking Association, which equips and maintains them. They are, however, expensive to stay in if you are not a member of that organisation. The Norwegian people use the long distance footpath system to connect Setesdal to Stavanger in the west and Telemark and Nissedal in the east and it is a rite of passage for young people to make the multi-day treks across these high mountain areas.

The high mountain areas also provide resorts for skiing in the winter, and Hovden, at the head of the valley, is a major Norwegian winter resort.

Further information about skiing can be found on page 27.

The Setesdal region provides an environment for both fishing and hunting.

The river system suffered from the acid rain debacles during the 1980s and 1990s but during the last 20 years the river has been fully restocked with trout. The hunting season runs throughout the year, but does not cause a conflict with climbers.

ÅSERAL – Additional information The term Åseral covers four separate valley systems: the valleys of Fiskardalen and Austredalen form a circle through the region, whilst the valleys of Vestredalen and Aknes are dead-ends running north into the mountain country.

The valleys have been visited in summer by rock-climbers from the British Army and by teams led by Nils Rune Birkeland and Hans Weninger for some 30 years, with the excellent 400m wall of Slettafjellet in Fiskardalen providing superb long traditional routes.

Aseral is 25km closer to the coast than Setesdal, and the weather in this area is marginally warmer than in Setesdal. The ice climbing development is still in its early stages, with only 9 routes completed to date. There is, therefore, a lot of potential for further new routes in this area under cold conditions.

At the centre of the region lies the small town of Åseral which contains a petrol station and a supermarket. The best accommodation is at the very end of Vestredalen at the Ljosland Fjellstove Hotel. Ljosland also has a small ski resort.

The Åseral valleys could also be visited for the day from Evje, so if you are

13

Introduction - Background Information expecting very cold conditions a base in Evje could be used to visit both the lower end of Setesdal as well as the Åseral region valleys. The drive from Evje to the end of Vestredalen is about 65km.

MAPS Area maps are provided within this guidebook for identifying the locations of each climb, as well as car-parking and approach routes. For further detail and improved identification, however, relevant map grid references are given from the Norge 1:50,000 series of maps. These are available from most outdoor shops, tourist offices and some supermarkets and petrol stations in the Setesdal valley. They can also be ordered in advance in the UK from major map suppliers.



Useful Maps: 1412-1 Austad 1412-2 Aseral 1413-1 Urdenosi 1413-2 Valle

14

1413-4 Botsvatn 1512-3 Evje 1512-4 Bygland

GETTING TO SETESDAL – See map inside front cover Access to the Setesdal region from the UK used to be possible via ferry services from Newcastle to either Stavanger or Kristiansand. In recent years, however, this service has been cancelled and the only remaining ferry option is via Denmark and then a second ferry connecting Denmark to Kristiansand.

The alternative is to fly to either Oslo or Stavanger. The Oslo routing provides access from many UK airports, whilst Stavanger is accessible from London Heathrow. SAS, Ryanair and Norwegian Shuttle are the most cost-effective options.

A hire car is then the only sensible means of internal transport within Norway. The drive from Oslo Sandefjord Torp airport to Rysstad takes about 4 hours (see area map at the start of this guide). From Oslo Gardermoen airport it is about 5 hours, and from Stavanger Sola airport it is again about 5 hours. Starting from Bergen, the drive will take approximately 6 hours.

Flights are also available to Oslo Rygge airport, but be aware that this is 1½ hours further from Setesdal than Oslo Sandefjord Torp airport.

The approaches from Oslo and Stavanger are on good roads leading to Evje and then north up highway 9 through Setesdal. These roads have

Introduction - Background Information occasional toll sections, but hire cars tend to be fitted with automatic toll registration equipment that automatically records your passage through toll stations.

The use of public transport to Setesdal is not feasible. It is possible to get a bus from Kristiansand or Evje through Setesdal, but it would be very difficult to climb in the region without a car for access.

WHEN TO VISIT The ice climbing season can extend from December until April. The best time to climb is very difficult to forecast, and a check on the first-ascent dates may be a good indication. As a general rule, mid-January to early March seems to provide the best chance of good conditions.

Setesdal rarely provides a season of continuous ice, more commonly there will be periods of intense cold interspersed with periods of thaw. The Kristiansand climbers regard Setesdal as having three distinct ice climbing periods: • The early season freeze, often with a lack of snow, usually in December through to early January.

• The mid-season freeze, usually in the first three weeks of February.

• The end of season frost period, when high and north-facing routes often come into their best condition, usually in the middle of March.

The last three years, however, have produced fairly unusual weather and conditions – 2010 and 2011 were bitterly cold for long periods, whilst 2012 was warmer but had a single hard frost period in early February. Unusually temperatures can reach as high as +10°C in February and as low as -20°C in March.

15

Introduction - Background Information

WI6

The Shakedown Theorem Captain Pugwash

WI5+

Gone tomorrow The Great Corner

Cristal

WI5

Tsunami Pythagoras Theorem Mary Poppins Sonner av Norge Rysefossen Draumenutenfossen

Going Underground Dane Gelt Snow Queen The Howling Slush Puppy

WI4+

Silver bullet Revolvermannen Bandido

St Valentine’s Day Massacre Beyond the Fringe

WI4

Gloppefossen Original You’ve been Tangoed

Agent Orange The Great Gully

WI3+

Damocles Groove Ride the punani Reiarsfossen The Midwich Cuckoos

Centurion Central climb – Rysefossen Kraken wake

WI3 38

Code Red A Few Good Men

Boyzone Fandango Damocles groove

Ljosland falls Hovden falls

WI2

RECOMMENDED CLIMBS The following list represents a selection of the best climbs in the Setesdal and Åseral valleys. Providing such a list is fraught with the vagaries of the ice conditions and so this selection has been made extensive to allow the first-time visitor to find and focus on good-quality routes that may be in condition.

Heddersvikfossen Heisfossen

Introduction - Background Information DIFFERENT CLIMBING SUGGESTIONS Bad Weather Options During periods of bad weather, head for the following locations: The Boddington Gorge, The Bykle Practice Slabs, Tunnel of Love area, Ramneberg Wall and the Gravel Pit Quarry. The Bykle Practice Slabs are the most reliable ice formation, whilst the Boddington Gorge and the Gravel Pit Quarry provide easy parking and access. The Tunnel of Love and Ramneberg are roadside ice crags, but are vulnerable to thaws and sunny weather Beginners And Instructional Options The Tunnel of Love has been used by ice-meets, and the setting-up of top ropes on the trees above is easily achievable.

The Bykle Slabs have been used by an instructor in Hovden for instructional sessions for many years. The slabs have to be led first but belays can be arranged on trees or ice screws.

For an introduction to multi-pitch water-ice climbing, the most commonly used routes are Heisfossen and Hedderviksfossen. Kvennbecken also provides a suitable first multi-pitch route.

If All Else Fails...

From Hovden, at the top of Setesdal, it is a 2½ hour drive to Rjukan, where you can join the rest of the world's ice-climbers...

39

Introduction - Background Information Anyone fancy an adventure? The stunning Big Drip on Ruafjell remains one of Setesdal's big unclimbed projects... but for how long?

Second Ascents Of Significant Routes A lot of the major routes in the valley still await second ascents. Norwegian climbers made the second and third ascents of Code Red in 2011 – admirable achievements! However, the following routes still await repeat ascents at the time of this guidebook going to press: A Few Good Men, Tsunami, Captain Pugwash, Sonner av Norge, Going Underground, The Great Corner, Shakedown Theorem, Pythagoras Theorem, Snow Queen, Mary Poppins and Draumenutenfossen.

New Route Possibilities Every winter ice-routes form in locations that have not been explored before or in meteorological conditions that have not been experienced before.

Two incredible lines are yet to completely form at a time when climbers were present to attempt the ascents – the main drainage down the steep west face of Straumfjellet will eventually produce an incredible route, whilst the Big Drip running down the main south face of Ruafjell has tempted suitors for many years without ever completely touching down.

Whilst there are well over a hundred routes in this guidebook, there are possibilities for perhaps at least a further fifty routes to be found and climbed in future winters. Indications of the presence of unclimbed lines are contained within the text of this guidebook.

 Please help us to maintain an accurate record of the climbing in Setesdal – new routes, significant repeat ascents or feedback should be emailed to the author via the Oxford Alpine Club on one of the following websites: www.climb-setesdal.com www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk

40

41

Berdalen

9 Overview Map & Crag Index

Highway 45 to Dalen (N38 to Drangedal and Sandefjord)

Highway 9 to Hovden

BYKLE the northern valley Area Map page 46

Bykle 45 Trydal

HWY 45 the Dalen road Area Map page 72

Bjørnarå

VEIANE Bjørnarå to Lunden Area Map page 58 Flateland

Homme

Valle

Berg

VALLE the central valley Area Map page 91 Uppstad

Brokke Rysstad

Straume Helle

337

Besteland

RYSSTAD the central valley Area Map page 107

9

Austad Moi Ose

ARAKSFJORDEN Ose to Straumland Area Map page 148 ASERAL Vestredalen, Austredalen & Fiskardalen Area Map page 181

Sandnes

BYGLAND the southern valley Area Map page 167 Straumland

42

Highway 9 to Evje (N42 and E18 to Sandefjord)

N 0km

10km

Bygland

AREA & CRAG INDEX Bykle - The Northern Valley 46 Rotefjellet East Face 46 Vrastøylsfjellet Southest Face 48 Barsfjellet Southeast Face 49 Bykle

50 Lambetonuten N Face 53 Trydal Basin 54 Veiane – Bjørnarå to Lunden 58 Bjørnaråfjellet 58 Gyllii Falls 59 Reimarmofjellet South Face 60 Skorpetveitfjellet South Face 62 Ruafjell South Face 63 The Veiane Gorge 64 Høystøylfjellet 68 Highway 45 – The Dalen Road 72 Gloppefossen 74 Kyrelifjell 78 Berhomsfjellet South Face 82 Høgsaetet North Face 84 Draumenuten North Face 85 Valle – The Central Valley 91 Kvennbecken 91 Nomelandsfjellet 92 Hengjefjell 93 Kvaesanr Drainage 97 Pallenuten West Face 98 Avalanche Wall 98 Saxon Falls 99 The Boddington Gorge 100 Uppstad Falls 102 Rysstad – Central Valley 107 Loefjell 107 Brokke Falls

108 Flatestoylasen West Face 112 Straumefjellet West Face 116 Hellesfjellet East Face 124 Besteland 134 Silberwand 134 Falkenut Northwest Face 135

Colours indicate the predominant difficulty of routes at each crag – this is a guide only and some good routes may exist at other grades. Crags in blue feature routes of all grades or routes that are good for top-roping.

Gravel Pit Quarry Sordalsheii South Face Tveitfjellet North Face Heisfossen Araksfjorden

Prestefjellet Skorsfjell West Face Stigeheii Southwest Face The Tunnel of Love Heddersvikfossen Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei East Face Bygland –The SouthernValley Tverrfjellet North Face Straumlandsnuten NE Face Ramneberg NE Face Kviteflogi NE Face Kviteflogi E Face (Rysefossen) Fanefjell West Face Sandvikfjellet East Face Åseral Husefjellet SW Face Slettafjellet East Face Eikit Falls Bortelid Pillars Langafjellet East Face Fitjansfjellet East Face Tjornebufjellet East Face Hellersheii West Face Lost Buttress East Face Ardalsheii West Face

136 139 140 144 148 148 150 150 152 154 156 156 158 160 167 167 168 170 172 172 175 176 181 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 190 191 191

Overview Map & Crag Index

Introduction - Crag Index

43

Bykle

Veiane

Hwy 45

Rysstad Valle

Araksfjord

Bygland

Ă…seral

Rotefjellet

Vrastoylsfjellet

Barsfjellet

Bykle

Lambetonuten

Trydal Basin

44

Bykle Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Trydal Basin

Lambetonuten

Bykle

Barsfjellet

Vrastoylsfjellet

Rotefjellet

Ă…seral

BYKLE

The Northern Valley 45

Bykle Veiane

Bykle & Northern Valley - Rotefjellet, Hovden Falls Vråstøylsfjellet

Skuggetjonnfjellet

Vråstøylsfjellet page 48

Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord

9

Barsfjellet page 49

Jarekollen

Hjellenuten

Bygland Åseral

BYKLE

Nesland

Rotefjellet

Bykle page 50

Stavnes

Hjellenuten

Vrastoylsfjellet

Trydalsfjellet

Barsfjellet

Trydal Basin page 54

Gausen

N

Bykle

0km 1km

Lambetonuten page 53

Byklestigen

Trydal

Lambetonuten

Bykle - The Northern Valley

Trydal Basin

The small town of Bykle lies approximately 25km south of the ski resort of Hovden and provides the most convenient base for climbs at the northern end of the valley. At an altitude of 650m above sea level it is also the highest of the main climbing centres, making it a good choice in early and late season when the icefalls further down the valley may not be fully formed. There is a petrol station and a supermarket on the main road close to the centre of town.

Rotefjellet East Face Area Overview: Page 46 Map: Saesvatn GR 064993

46

From Bykle a 25km drive north leads to the ski resort and town of Hovden.

A single excllent climb has been recorded above the Hartevatnet lake approximately 4km south of Hovden (Not shown on area map).

Approaches and Parking – Turn off the highway to the west where the road is signposted for the heliport. Drive past the airport and industrial buildings on the left to park in an unobtrusive position. From here the route is accessed around the edge of the lake in about 30 minutes by snowshoe (possible, though more time-consuming, without).

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route faces east but its altitude means that it is frequently in condition.

Bykle & Northern Valley - Rotefjellet, Hovden Falls

Bykle Bykle Veiane

1. Hovden Falls WI3 First ascent unknown

200m. The obvious wide falls on the far side of the lake from the helicopter base. It was climbed in January 2001 by Tom Willy Olsen and Philip Jackobsen, but has possibly been climbed before.

Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Trydal Basin

Lambetonuten

Bykle

Barsfjellet

Vrastoylsfjellet

Rotefjellet

Ă…seral

1

Photo: David Barlow

47

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Rotefjellet Vrastoylsfjellet Barsfjellet Bykle Lambetonuten Trydal Basin

48

Bykle & Northern Valley - Vrastøylsfjellet

Vrastøylsfjellet Southeast Face Area Overview: Page 46 Map: Urdenosi GR 070827

A couple of challenging climbs are located on the left (west) side of the valley driving north out of Bykle. Head north for approximately 2.5km until a small turn-off on the right heads to Stavness.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is possible at the T-junction of the Stavness turning, although a better area can be found a few hundred metres along the side-road. Routes are approached directly in 30 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – These southeast-facing routes are often in condition, but the avalanche risk here is often significant.

1. Cristal WI5+ First ascent by P.Ramsden & J.Hall, January 2007

180m. Superb climbing up the steep falls in the centre of the face, providing a long and difficult outing that ranks amongst the finest hard routes in the northern valley. Descend by abseil.

2. Bollinger WI5 First ascent by P.Ramsden & G.Hornby, 22nd February 2007

125m. The lower falls form a steep wall followed by easier climbing. Abseil descent via trees to the south of the route.

1

Bykle & Northern Valley - Barsfjellet

Barsfjellet Southeast Face

Bykle Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Rotefjellet

Åseral

1. Electric Warrior WI2+ First ascent by G.Hornby & P.Ramsden, February 2007

Lambetonuten

60m. The obvious single-pitch climb above the lake is a good option for beginners. Abseil descent from a small tree.

Bykle

Barsfjellet

Immediately north of the bridge just south of Bykle there is a turning to the west that leads to the end of the Bosvatn lake and a large hydroelectric power station. Take this turning, drive around the end of Botsvatn and park by the power station at Nesland. The only route climbed here to date is the small falls under the power lines to the west.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available on the wide cleared area in front of the power station, from where the route can be approached directly in 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route faces south but is usually formed of thick ice at a low angle. Care should be taken after heavy snow fall.

Vrastoylsfjellet

Area Overview: Page 46 Map: Botsvatn GR 003798

Trydal Basin

Photo: David Barlow

1

49

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral

Bykle & Northern Valley - Bykle

Bykle Area Overview: Page 46 Map: Botsvatn GR 053788

Rotefjellet Vrastoylsfjellet Barsfjellet

A super little venue, combining good reliable ice with one of the easiest approaches the valley has to offer. The ice is usually frozen hard throughout the season, creating some technical and surprisingly steep climbs that can be enjoyed right through the winter. Five independent lines are identified here, although in reality the slabby walls can be climbed more or less anywhere, generally becoming easier towards the right side of the falls.

Approaches and Parking – The crag is located approximately 1.5km south of Bykle, at the northern end of a large lake. Right at the end of the lake a short steep track leads off the main road to a small parking area on the old road - this is usually cleared, but can sometimes be buried in snow. From the parking the crag is easily reached in about 10 minutes.

Descent from all routes is by abseil, and fixed slings can be found on trees towards both sides of the crag - 60m ropes required.

Bykle

1. Left Side WI6 First ascent: British Military, unknown.

Lambetonuten

40m. Excellent, bold and technical climbing up the hollow curtain of ice at the left side of the wall.

Trydal Basin

2. Curtain Wall WI6 First ascent: British Military, unknown.

40m. The right side of the curtain wall, just left of an ice cave.

3. Central Wall WI5 First ascent: British Military, unknown.

50m. Superb climbing up the centre of the face.

4. Right Wall WI4 First ascent: British Military, unknown.

60m. Steep walls to an optional mid-height belay and easier finish.

5. Slab Route WI3 First ascent: British Military, unknown.

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55m. Slabby ground up the right side of the face.

Bykle & Northern Valley - Bykle

Bykle Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

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Trydal Basin

Lambetonuten

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Barsfjellet

Vrastoylsfjellet

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Rotefjellet

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Bykle

Bykle & Northern Valley - Bykle

Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral Rotefjellet Vrastoylsfjellet Barsfjellet Bykle Lambetonuten Trydal Basin

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First ascent: G.Hornby, P.Ramsden & A.Brash, 15 March 2000.

100m. The right-hand of the two gully lines gives a good climb. Some soloing leads to approximately 3 pitches of climbing with an abseil descent down trees to the north.

Lambetonuten North Face Area Overview: Page 46 Map: Botsvatn GR 041785

The hillside on the other side of the lake from the Bykle Slabs has a number of small icy screens. This route climbs a series of steps up the most continuous line of ice.

Approaches and Parking – Park as for the Bykle Slabs and then cross the bridge before walking through the trees and then directly across the lake.

The route is accessible in 20 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – Crossing the lake is obviously a high risk activity and care must be taken in the assessment of the ice thickness.

The route faces north and is often in condition.

Bygland Åseral Rotefjellet

7. Take That Safety Boy WI3+

Araksfjord

Vrastoylsfjellet

100m. Few details are known about the left-hand gully. It is predominantly snow with a couple of steep pitches that may prove difficult in thin conditions.

Valle Rysstad

Barsfjellet

First ascent unknown.

Hwy 45

Bykle

6. Left Gully WI1/2

Veiane

Lambetonuten

Above the parking area, and to the north of the main roadside crag, are two west-facing gully lines. These are...

Bykle Bykle

Trydal Basin

Bykle & Northern Valley - Lambetonuten

1. Fuzzy Jenjen WI4 First ascent: G.Wilks & G.Hornby, 31st March 2002.

60m. The obvious single-pitch climb above the lake. Abseil descent from trees.

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NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge

Uppstad Falls

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Uppstad Falls

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Bykle

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Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral

VALLE

The Central Valley

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Bykle

Valle - Overview

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Homfjellet

Flateland

Homme

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Kallefoss

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Nomelandsfjellet

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Nomeland

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Skarveheii

NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge

Berg

Hengjefjell page 93

Luseskardheii Bø Vasslandsnuten Sandnes

Riskefjell

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Janus Falls page 97

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Uppstad Falls page 102

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Valle - Kvennbecken

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Valle – The Central Valley

Veiane

Approximately 6km south of the Dalen turn-off lies the town of Valle (pronounced with a long 'a' as in 'bar'). This is a reasonably sized settlement with useful amenities including shops, petrol and accommodation.

Hwy 45

Kvennbecken

Araksfjord

Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 141659

Bygland

Photo page 69

250m. The broad falls provide some good, open, low-grade climbing that will suit inexperienced parties. The climbing is mostly very easy with a number of steeper steps towards the top. Descend through trees down the north side of the route.

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Kvennbecken Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

First ascent: S.Broadbent, N.Hedderley & B.Hodgett, December 2010.

Åseral

Uppstad Falls

Just over a kilometre south of the highway 45 turning a small loop road crosses an iron bridge and passes through the tiny settlement of Kallefoss before rejoining the main road. A broad, low-angled icefall can be seen on the forested slopes to the southwest.

Approaches and Parking – A small forestry track turns south of the loop road just west of Kallefoss. Take this, bearing left and parking as high as possible. A number of paths head straight up through the trees, from where the easiest approach is to gain easy narrow ice that leads to the base of the climbing (About 45 minutes).

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route faces north but being such a wide fall may take some time to form. It is generally free from objective hazards.

1. Kvennbecken WI2+

Valle Rysstad

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Bykle Veiane Hwy 45

Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Kvennbecken NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge Uppstad Falls

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Valle - Nomelandsfjellet

Nomelandsfjellet Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 157653

The big sweep of slabs above Valle Sentrum is home to many excellent rock climbs. The summer route Waterfall Direct has been climbed as an icefall but the first ascentionists are unknown.

The route looks inspiring but unfortunately it is of a very low angle for much of the way and the descent may be problematical with thin ice covering smooth granite slabs. During the 2004 Ice Festival, Nils Rune Birkeland and friends skinned up the slabs to the left until two thirds of the way up the face before turning and skiing down with ease.

This route was also the scene for the only recorded rescue in the valley. A solo climber climbed to a point where he could neither ascend or descend and waited all night for assistance.

Approaches and Parking – The approach from Valle is to turn north on Route 9 and then first left along a minor road running under the wall. Parking is available directly beneath the route and the climbing is accessible in 15 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route catches a lot of sun and will melt and collapse quickly. It should only be attempted in extended periods of freeze.

1. Waterfall Direct WI3+ First ascent unknown

550m. An impressive fall that is unfortunately not as good as it looks. The ice is unlikely to be thick enough to provide solid Abalokov anchors and the route has the potential to melt quickly. Descent is complicated and probably best made on foot to the north and then down eastwards into the valley.

The icefall formed by the stream running South from the lake directly below the main summit at 1314 metres.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available at the end of the road above Berg. The snow machine parking area has a short toll road for access and this may not be passable by car.

However, there is a lay-by at the start of the toll road from where access is simple on foot.

The route is best approached by snow shoe or ski up the path marked for Stavskahutta. This approach may take up to 1.5 hours depending on the snow conditions.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – This route faces southeast and will normally have a substantial cornice at the top. During the first ascent there was a major cornice collapse.

1. Sonner av Norge WI5

Hwy 45

Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral Kvennbecken

Area Overview: 91 Map: Valle 108638

Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

Hengjefjell

Bykle Veiane

Uppstad Falls

Valle - Hengjefjell,

First ascent: N.R.Birkeland & J.Langset, January 2005.

150m. A stunning alpine effort in a remote setting. A shovel may be required for the summit cornice and belays may be well back from the lip. Pitches of 4, 5, 3 and 3. It is not recommended to carry skis up the route due to the icicle fringes and the summit cornice but if skis can be taken to the top then the ski descent for 1000 metres of powder down the north side of Hengjefjell to Loyland/Graver is a dream.

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Kvennbecken NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge

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Sons of Norway

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Nils Rune Birkeland

he concept of combining a climbing ascent and a skiing descent has always attracted me, but very seldom is this a reasonable approach to ice climbing. More usually it is a combination of stumbling and swimming through deep snow up to the ice formation that you intend to climb – soaked in sweat before you start the climb itself – and reversing the stumbling swimming process all the way back to the car.

The idea of climbing the huge falls in the mountain valley west of Valle was to bring that attractive concept above into reality. The only hinge was that we (Jonas Langseth and I) needed two individuals aspiring to become the Mother Theresas of the North, willing to carry our skis to the top of the screen, from where 1000 metres of vertical drop in the deep mid-January powder-snow would provide the descent back to the valley floor north of Valle.

Uppstad Falls

Heading for an adventure on one of Setesdal's classic 'mountain' routes Sonner av Norge WI5. Nils Rune Birkeland

So far so good – four people started skiing from the parking lot at Berg; temperature 15 degrees below zero, no wind, weak midwinter sun from a clear blue sky. Blue sky, blue ice, blue fingers – just those cold conditions we needed to be sure that the big overhanging snowdrift protecting the top of this high-country falls wouldn’t be too keen to generously drop huge amounts of snow down our necks whilst climbing.

One hour later, having skinned up the valley, we left our skis and our companions who had generously promised to bring our skis to the top of the mountain. We approached the base of the falls with big expectations.

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Big expectations were unfortunately matched by an even bigger snowdrift than we had imagined. Thank God the weather was still cold, but with the sun now hitting the top of the wall and causing the snowdrift to glitter, weak whispering voices started somewhere in the back of our

"I know" I yelled back to him, with no time to negotiate the exchange rate between horizontal safety and vertical uncertainty. The ground got further and further away as I passed the bulge to see our two 60 metre ropes in a nice, unbroken bow between us – blue sky high above, and mortal certainty 60 meters below.

"Two fast pitches!" was Jonas' laconic comment when I reached his high point – 'high point' being a better term than 'stance' to describe his situation, carefully avoiding straining his two equalized ice axes buried into a dubious white mixture of air and ice. The sun had started doing its work. We got it clear now: the combination of repeated cycles of sunny days melting and cold nights refreezing the substance.

The nice blue ice was not even an optical effect, more likely a mental illusion created by two optimistic juvenile brains. 'You shouldn’t be here. This is a trap, there is no way down, and now you can’t run away!' The whispering voices in the backs of our heads gained strength.

We rearranged the high point, digging a hole in which we made a thread with a sling before Jonas continued leading. Huge icicles above me were dripping ever more frequently as the sun got even stronger. The rope was now hardly moving at all, making its way between dripping icicles and transformed ice in a diagonal line to the right. Thirty, forty, fifty minutes, one hour, one-hour-and-a-half standing under these Damoclean swords before Jonas reached a belay somewhere high above. Above? In that forest of icicles! "I just had to", he announced as I reached his belay after following hollow ice formations and dubious threads in a bow first right, then back again. "The ice was too crappy to the right, right?"

"Right!" I had to admit, rapidly switching to the sharp end of the rope and preparing to take my share of the tension in bringing us out of this trap.

Small white pieces starting to drizzle from the roof of snow, now just two long pitches above. 'You shouldn’t be here. This is a trap, there is no way

Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Kvennbecken

Jonas started stretching the rope over poor quality and ever steepening sun-affected ice. No protection. He disappeared over a bulge. "I have no protection!" he yelled to me. "I can’t reverse this, you just have to follow"

Hwy 45

Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

heads: 'You shouldn’t be here. This is a trap, there is no way out! Run away while you still have the chance!' Juvenile hubris – still an effective protection against such voices – made it easy to push on.

Bykle Veiane

Uppstad Falls

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Valle - Hengjefjell down, and don’t even think of running away!' There was no chance of turning off the accompanying voices now. Not even thinking – just acting, now!

Kvennbecken

Two more pitches, with the angle easing off, brought us to the ramp – a narrow rock band some thirty meters below the hanging roof of snow. A solid belay at our advanced position – partly protected by the rock band – was our trench before the final battle. It became my pleasure facing the snowdrift and the illusory hope avoiding it to the right faded away very rapidly as I moved on. The refrain also continued in the back of my head: 'There is no way down, there is no way around, you shouldn’t be here, this is a trap…'

NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge Uppstad Falls

Then the sodding cornice collapsed! Of course it collapsed, it had to – that’s the purpose of the cornice: just what such things are made for – fulfilling its destiny. But still I was hanging! One of my axes still attached to the cornice, or, to be more precise, what was left of it!

I had stretched the rope those thirty metres up, gently dug a hole in the roof trying to escape the minefield, and just starting moving though when it happened. The avalanche, chopping 15 meters of the snowdrift on both sides of me, swept the frozen screen below making it look like a huge waterfall in the rainy season. It continued down, covering our approach line with a fine dust of snow. "Glad they took our skis away!" the laconic commentary from my companion in the trench that had proved to be safe.

"Yes, let’s hope they did" I shouted down to him. Actually there was nothing more to say in such a moment of intense living.

Fifteen minutes later we gathered in the land of horizontal safety at the top of the wall. The temperature was dropping radically as the sun was diving behind the mountains on the opposite side of the valley. But the land of horizontal certainty also provided us with uncertainty regarding our skis. They were absent! Our companions, probably not aspiring for the title Mother Theresa of the North, had left them at the bottom of the approach line. The refrain went on in the back of our heads: 'There is no way around, just a long walk down. This is not a trap, but fragile sons of Norway shouldn’t be still here when the night falls on.'

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"Anyhow, let’s hope we will be able to locate our skis in those avalanche remnants at the bottom of the approach line." I said hopefully.

In the falling darkness we were both doubtful about that…

Towards the southern end of the large lake south of Valle is the substantial waterfall of the Kvaesanr Drainage. When fully frozen it provides a superb, roadside amusement with minimal commitment and easy descent.

Approaches and Parking – The approach is a matter of metres and parking is usually possible in a small pull-out underneath the falls.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – A westerly aspect with little avalanche danger except after heavy snowfalls. This is a large waterfall and needs an extended cold period to fully freeze.

1. Janus Falls WI2 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 9th February 2003.

240m. The Kveasanr falls can be climbed up the left or right sides at similar grades. Both route are approximately 4 to 5 pitches in length and provide a good day out for inexperienced parties. Descent can be made by walking down through the trees on either side of the falls.

Hwy 45

Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Kvennbecken

Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 165572

Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

Kvaesanr Drainage

Bykle Veiane

Uppstad Falls

Valle - Kvaesanr Drainage

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Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Valle - Pallenuten, Avalanche Wall

Pallenuten West Face Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 163563

Avalanche Wall

Kvennbecken NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge

These routes only appear when there has been heavy frost and limited snowfall.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available in a small lay-by on the lake side of the road, approximately 400m north of the bridge at the bottom end of the lake. Walk south from here some 100m and then turn up through the trees for 10 minutes. The descent is by abseil down the trees at left of centre.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The name of this area is no coincidence, and parties should avoid climbing here after heavy snowfall or during unstable conditions.

1. Three Step Corner WI3+ First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 28th January 2004

80m. The three steps at the left end of the wall are climbed direct with tree belays.

2. Slip Sliding Away WI3 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 28th January 2004

80m. The groove line in the middle of the face leads to a tree and easier ground.

3. Temporary Measure WI3

Uppstad Falls

First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 28th January 2004

80m. The bulge to the right is climbed direct to easier ground above.

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Valle - Pallenuten, Saxon Falls

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Saxon Falls

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Located 200m to the south of Avalanche Wall, these routes also require extended cold periods with minimal snowfall, and are often not in condition.

Approaches and Parking – Park in the small lay-by on the lake side of the road, approximately 400 metres north of the bridge as for Avalanche Wall.

Walk south from here for approximately 300m and then turn up through the trees, from where the routes are accessible in 10 minutes. The descent is by abseil down the trees at left of centre.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – High avalanche risk.

Hwy 45

Åseral

5. Frozen Rainbow WI2 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 15th February 2003.

50m. The groove left of the rock pillar to finish as for Midas Touch.

6. Midas Touch WI3 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 15th February 2003.

90m. The groove right of the rock pillar, finishing direct.

7. Ride Like the Wind WI3+ First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 15th February 2003.

90m. The thinly iced groove at the right side leads to ice-pillars at the top.

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Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

60m. The slab of ice at the left edge to finish as for Midas Touch.

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Bygland

Uppstad Falls

First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 15th February 2003.

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Araksfjord

Kvennbecken

4. Crusader WI2

Valle Rysstad

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Valle - Boddington Gorge

The Boddington Gorge Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 158559

Kvennbecken NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge Uppstad Falls

The bridge north of the Uppstad turning provides access to this pleasant little gorge. Access, whilst straightforward in terms of distance from the road, is slightly sensitive and climbers are asked to obtain permission for both parking and climbing here.

Approaches and Parking – Cross the bridge north of Uppstad (heading north) and then turn back on yourself up the drive below the white house. Carefully park in the drive below the house and seek permission from the owners of the 1 house before leaving your vehicle or 3 2 proceeding to the gorge.

To approach the routes, walk through the farm and past a pair of caravans, following a ramp or track down to the edge of the river. The routes lie in the 150m before the river drops away again and are accessible in 5 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The river widens below the routes and is often only partially frozen. Do not walk out onto the ice for any reason.

The first routes are all obvious in a cirque above the lake.

1. Gladys Althorpe WI3+ First ascent: G.Hornby, S.Sammut, P.Baker & B.Davison, 30th January 2004.

25m. The first two-step pillar.

2. By Heck WI3 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Hall, 16th February 2004.

70m. The pillar and groove immediately right of Gladys.

3. Sir Christian Boddington WI4 First ascent: P.Baker, A.Chaudry & B.Davison, 30th January 2004.

45m. The thin gully line immediately right.

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Valle - Boddington Gorge

4. Absolutely Gorgeous WI4

Hwy 45

First ascent: A.Chaudhry, P.Baker & B.Davison, 30th January 2004.

40m. The next gully line to the right.

Valle

Photo page 103

First ascent: P.Seabrook, D.Barlow & G.Hornby, 16th February 2012.

45m. The big screen of ice covering the rock buttress overlooking the lake formed in 2012 for the first known time. This route climbed a series of corners and bulges through the centre of the buttress.

Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral Kvennbecken

6. Smooth and Creamy WI4+

Rysstad

First ascent: B.Davison, A.Chaudry & P.Baker, 30th January 2004.

45m. The two-step blue ice pillar to the right of the big screen.

Approximately 100m downstream and around the corner is a broad wall of ice. This holds the following climbs...

7. Half Measure WI2 First ascent: S.Hall & G.Hornby, 18th February 2004.

40m. The left side of the wall is climbed easily to a tree belay.

8. Swift Half WI3 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Hall, 16th February 2004.

Uppstad Falls

70m. The blunt pillar immediately to the right.

Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

5. Smooth Flow WI4

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Valle - Uppstad Falls

Uppstad Falls Area Overview: Page 91 Map: Valle GR 144558

Take the Uppstad turning approximately 5km north of Rysstad. Follow the road up and back around to the southwest.

Approaches and Parking – Park at the entrance to the large tunnel (hydroelectric workings). The routes are accessible in 5 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – These routes are within the forest and present few environmental hazards.

Kvennbecken

1. Subterranean Llama Farmer WI3

NomelandsBoddington Hengjefjell Janus Falls Pallenuten fjellet Gorge

First ascent: G.Hornby, S.Sammut, K.Kelly & B.Davison, 13th February 2003.

90m. This ice-fall gully is visible through the trees 200m right of the tunnel entrance. Descend by down-climbing and abseiling through the trees.

2. Electric Mountain WI2+ First ascent: R.Sinclair & M.Hedge, 11 March 2004.

90m. The gully 30m left of Subterranean Llama Farmer. Abseil descent from a tree.

Uppstad Falls

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Smoothflow WI4 (page 101) is one of the highlights of the roadside Boddington Gorge near Uppstad. Paul Seabrook on the first ascent in 2012. David Barlow

Uppstad Falls

Boddington NomelandsPallenuten Janus Falls Hengjefjell Gorge fjellet

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Rysstad - Overview

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Loefjell page 107

Brokke Falls page 108

Loefjell

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Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet

Kisteknausen

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Besteland page 134

Helle

Straume

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Vardehei

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Rastefjell

Falkenut page 135 Gravel Pit Quarry page 136

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Rysstadåsen

Høgehei

Heisfossen page 144

Sordalsheii page 139

Krakefjell Sordalsheii

Sordal

Austad

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Moifjellet Moi

N Tveitfjellet page 140

0km 1km Rustfjellhei

To Ose Bridge page 148

Rysstad - Loefjell

Bykle

Rysstad – The Central Valley

Veiane

At the heart of Setesdal, the central valley between Rysstad and Austad is littered with some of the region's best ice-climbs, including a handful of world-class routes that have sealed the valley's reputation. Although the season here is somewhat shorter than the higher areas of Bykle and Highway 45, many of these climbs should be considered essential ticks during mid-season.

Hwy 45

First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 10th February 2003.

30m. The left-hand pillar to an abseil descent from a tree at the right side.

1. Central Pillar WI4 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 10th February 2003.

30m. Climb the pillar in the centre of the falls. Descend by abseil at the right side.

1. Right Pillar WI3 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 10th February 2003.

30m. The pillar at the right side to an abseil descent.

Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet

1. Left Pillar WI3

Silberwand Besteland

A small boss of blue water-ice is visible above the houses, below and left of the mighty Loefjell wall.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available on any of the roads close to the falls. It may be wise to ask permission if any residents are visible. The routes are accessible in 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The falls do not provide any significant environmental hazards.

Åseral

Falkenut

Weninger Falls

Bygland

Gravel Pit Quarry

Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 108524

Araksfjord

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Loefjell

Valle

Rysstad

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Bykle

Rysstad - Brokke Falls

Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

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Åseral

3 4

Loefjell Brokke

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Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

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Brokke Falls Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 135522

The gorge below Loefjell and opposite Brokke hamlet provides a popular place in summer for swimming. In winter the far wall has a number of gully ice falls.

Approaches and Parking – The approach takes approximately 45 minutes.

Parking should be possible at the junction with the Brokke turning opposite the falls. Cross the river above the gorge (about 100m above the routes) and then walk along the top of the routes to an abseil from trees.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes face north and have minimal objective hazards.

1. Ride the Punani WI3+

Photo page 110

First ascent: G.Hornby & D.Wallis, 25th February 2001.

200m. The left-hand fall is the longest route hereabouts and features excellent climbing up the stepped gully. Small wires can help to protect the 4th pitch. Pitches of 50m (3), 35m (2), 50m (3), 40m (3+), 25m (2).

Rysstad - Brokke Falls

2. King Harry Monk WI3

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First ascent: M.Hedge & R.Sinclair, 10th March 2004.

100m. This route climbs out of the large gully 50m left of Monarch. Abseil down the gully to the start of the ice smears. 3 pitches of 3+ and 3 up the rightward slanting chimney and ice wall above.

Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord

3. Monarch of the Glen WI5

Bygland

First ascent: K.Kelly & B.Davison, 9th February 2003.

100m. The thin steep ice pillar 30m right of Monarch, only forms occasionally.

5. Balmoral WI5

Straumefjellet

First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Hall, 16th February 2004.

Loefjell

4. Crowning Glory WI4+

Ă…seral

Brokke

120m. The central steep ice-screen only forms occasionally, with pitches of 30m (2), 40m (5), 40m (5), 10m (2).

Flatestoylsasen

First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 11th February 2003.

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

50m. The fierce pillar in the gully right of Crowning Glory. Abseil in from a tree and then climb via the overhanging groove to finish.

6. Call of the Wild WI4 First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Hall, February 2004.

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Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

The road continues beyond the ski resort and after 1km winds left and then back right to a parking area for snow machines. This next icefall becomes visible as you crest the second bend, down in the gully to the left. Park at the snow machine park and return to drop down the slope and across the river.

100m. A good climb, providing 2 pitches (WI4 then WI2). An abseil descent can be made on trees to the left of the route. Photo page 21

Bykle Veiane

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Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Rysstad - Brokke Falls

Loefjell

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Ride the Punani

Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet

Needless to say that first week produced a series of routes all with musical route names such as ‘Funky Cold Medina’.

Hellesfjellet Besteland

Standing on the side of the road up to the Brokke ski resort, leaning against the roadside barriers, we looked across the gorge at the steep wooded hillside opposite.

Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

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David Wallis

I swear if I ever go on another climbing trip with Hornby I am going to leave the CDs at home. Bringing a compilation of rap and modern classics for the hire car seemed like such a good idea. How was I to know that my climbing partner would have spent his life locked into cheesy rock music and suddenly be discovering the likes of Run DMC. Everywhere we drove the car thumped to the drum and bass that was playing.

The broken wall presented an array of ice features but at the left end was a continuous line of ice running up a twisting gully. The route looked compelling but the access was problematic. A deep gorge separated us from the base of the route with an approach from the valley bottom blocked by a steep step in the lower gorge.

David Wallis in the superb gully of Ride the Punani WI3+ (p108)

Geoff told me of the summers he had spent climbing on the sun-kissed

We left a sling on the tree at the top to help future ascensionists locate the descent and during the walk back discussed the potential route name options. The musical references were close to exhaustion so we turned to the next great icon of youth culture, Ali G, and agreed that ‘Ride the Punani’ was an excellent idea. It is a shame that Geoff had no idea what it meant!

It was our last route of the week and we drove hard to meet the ferry in Kristiansand. On the dockside we met up with our colleagues for the week, Ramsden and Hall in one car and Eastwood and Holland in the other. It felt as if we were making our school report to the management team, but pretty soon we were all ensconced in the bar and toasting a week where we had collectively produced 13 major new routes in the valley.

Bygland

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Hellesfjellet

The ability to leave the sacks and snow shoes at the top made for easy logistics and the spacious belay ledges along the route made it very comfortable.

Araksfjord

Silberwand Besteland

The approach was novel: abseil down the line of the route from trees, check out the pitches, then climb back up from the bottom. Of all the low to mid-grade routes in the region I would suggest that this is one of the most beautiful. The crux is steeper and more continuous than the rest of the route, but never too steep, with wires in the side wall to help to protect the steepest section.

Valle

Rysstad

Falkenut

Well, perhaps listening to Run DMC at high volume makes you do that, but I could not see the purpose. He said we needed to ensure we rapped into the right gully line and so the next day we found ourselves clambering over the Armco barrier and wading down through deep snow and across the upper gorge before snow shoeing across the hillside counting the trees again.

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granite in the back country and the evenings spent bathing in the rock pools in the upper gorge. He then proposed the idea of crossing the stream high up above the gorge and below the ski resort, and then traversing east along the hillside to the top of the route. Then he went quiet and when I asked what he was doing he said he was counting trees.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Brokke Falls

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Rysstad - Flatestoylasen

Flatestoylasen West Face Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 514174

The impressive wall above Rysstad is only visible in its top half, where two continuous lines of water-ice can be seen. These are big routes, and with a long approach and descent they are full-bore outings that rank amongst the most prized objectives in the valley.

Approaches and Parking – The routes are accessed by a zigzag road until level with the base of the wall and then a traverse south through the trees.

Cross the bridge 3km north of Rysstad, signed Hovet. At the T-junction in Hovet, turn right (south) and drive for 2km. Drive past the first turning up to the left, as this is private, but stop at the second turning, marked as a toll road. Park carefully so as not to obstruct the entrance.

Walk up the forestry track zigzags for 2km until level with the base of the routes. Then strike out across the hillside. This approach may take over an hour.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes face northwest and are very high on the mountain. The slopes above the routes are predominantly rock and tree-covered so should be stable except after very heavy snow fall.

1. Pythagoras Theorem WI5 First ascent: G.Holland & P.Eastwood, 23rd February 2001.

310m. The magnificent left-hand line is continuous, sustained, and immaculate, providing the best grade 5 in the valley. Abseil descent from above the jammed boulder to the left. Pitches of 30m (5), 40m (5), 40m (5,) 45m (4), 50m (4), 50m (4), 50m (3), 5m (4).

2. Shakedown Theorem WI6 First ascent: J.Hall & P.Ramsden, 20th February 2001.

280m. The right-hand line is one of the great test-piece routes of the valley.

After a very steep start follow a series of steps to gain the top of Pythagoras.

Descend by abseil from trees to the left. Pitches of 55m (6), 55m (5), 60m (4+), 60m (5), 50m (4+).

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Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Rysstad - Flatestoylasen Veiane

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Hwy 45

Rysstad

Valle

Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral

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Rysstad - Flatestoylasen

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Pythagoras Theorem

Paul Eastwood

Arguably, it was the most exciting line in the valley; spotted on day one of our trip and saved for the climax of the week. Upon closer inspection there were actually two lines, a slightly narrower and steeper one to the right which became Shakedown Theorem and the main fat line christened Pythagoras Theorem due to the diagonal nature of the route when viewed from the road. Earlier in the week Paul Ramsden and Jim Hall had ascended Shakedown Theorem and reported that the ice was good and hard, so the concept of the sister route was born.

The approach, albeit only short, was through thigh-deep soft snow.

There was no chance of the route melting as it was at least -10oc, so the only problem was going to be the short daylight – or so we thought.

Steady plods brought us slowly closer – oh why hadn't we brought our snowshoes, which would have made it so much easier? Still, there’s nothing like a bit of effort to make a day memorable, even before we had started the climbing. As we got nearer, the ice became bluer and bluer. It was a beautiful line of pure ice cutting across the west face of Flatesstoylasen. The sky was cloudless and matched the blue of the ice.

It was going to be a good day.

At the base of the route, the quality of the ice was confirmed, and so was the temperature. Duvets went on, and they were going to stay on all day.

Although the valley was already bathed in sunshine, the route would be in shade all day.

On to the ice, it was cold; nearly too cold, but the route was in perfect condition so all we had to do was climb it! With the first swing of the axe the adze bounced off, but after three or four hits a perfect placement was formed and progress began. A repeat with the other axe but again the crampons skated on the hard ice. It was going to be a slow and steady climb on excellent, but rock-hard ice. The start was steep but a convenient tree was clearly visible to one side of the ice about 30m up. We both climbed slowly; there was no way we could rush. Seconding was much easier as, if the precise same route was followed, you could find the small nick in the ice that the leader had formed.

The second pitch was even steeper and was a full 40m of near vertical

Descent, as with all routes we did that week, was a combination of abseils from Abalakov threads and trees down the line of the climb.

We made it back to the safety of terra firma before dark, after enjoying one of the great lines of Setesdal.

Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Falkenut

The effort of the first three pitches was soon forgotten and it became a joy to be on the ice, not so much thwack, thwack, thwack, rather a single well positioned and accurate swing enabling a millimetre attachment of the ice to be gained – confidence was high after the lower, steeper pitches, so that was enough. Pitches 5 and 6 were full rope lengths, only restricted by the length of the ropes. Belays were a couple of ice screws but at least the angle was less so we no longer had to hang like a couple of sacks swinging from the belay.

The ice-cave eventually came into view above us, but still a full rope length away. There was no way to follow the ice through the cave as it was completely blocked, so there were a few more very steep moves over the edge to surmount the cave and reach the thin Abalakov thread left

by Paul and Jim at the top of Shakedown Theorem. The final pitch was a fitting climax up steep ice to the natural end of the climb.

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Gravel Pit Quarry

ice, followed by another just the same. The joy of climbing perfect blue ice was interspersed with burning forearms and calf muscles on the steep ice, although it was so cold that we didn’t raise a sweat.

Thwack, thwack, thwack with the right arm, thwack, thwack, thwack with the left, a quick kick, kick, kick with the legs and a foot of progress was made. The trees were left behind and the view down the valley became clearer. After 110m the steepness relented and the climb became even more enjoyable.

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Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Flatestoylasen

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet

Straumefjellet West Face Area Overview: Page 107 Map: See individual route descriptions

The broad west face of Straumefjellet has many ephemeral lines and alongside Flatestoylasen and Hellesfjellet it provides some of the valley's most intimidating and desirable test-pieces, some of which rank amongst the best climbs in southern Norway. In recent times, the lake does not freeze due to hydroelectric water movements and so access is either by boat, pedalo or by walking up the far shore from the southern end (very difficult).

Approaches and Parking – Ignoring the pedalo option, the usual route of approach is to take the turning to Straume, 4km south of the petrol station in Rysstad. Drive over the bridge and keep straight on past houses until you reach a T-junction with a row of postboxes in front of you. Park here, taking care not to block the road.

Walk along the left (north) track through the farms and then go down across the field to gain the end of the lake below the huge west face of Stramfjellet. Going Underground is the deep slot above you and right of the left-facing corner system that forms the edge of the rock wall. Great Gully, Soft Option, Tsunami and Slanting Gully are all accessed by walking along the edge of the lake, struggling over boulder fields, and avoiding the frozen edge of the water.

The approach for Captain Pugwash has only been achieved by pedalo so far, but it may be possible to keep traversing past Tsunami to reach the start of the route.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – Unfortunately, the west face of Straumfjellet is a sun-trap, and although this creates drainage after snowfall the routes require sustained periods of frost to form properly.

1. Going Underground WI5 First ascent: P.Ramsden & R.Topliss, 28th January 2006

330m. Right of the great wall of Straumefjellet lie three corner systems. The left one is pure rock whilst the central and right systems are deeper chimneys. Going Underground climbs the central corner and is an excellent route up ice steps for 7 pitches of (4+), (4), (1), (5), (5), (1), (5). Descend by abseil.

Map: Valle GR 190489

1

Rysstad - Straumefjellet

Bykle Veiane

Photo page 133

Valle GR 180550

First ascent: L.Atkinson & P.Watkins, 1980s.

100m. This is the 'short' icefall between the Great Gully and Tsunami.

Descend by abseil.

4. Tsunami WI5

Valle GR 176505

First ascent: K.Kelly & B.Davison, 10th February 2003

Bygland

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

215m. Yet another world-class ice climb. The long ice smear that runs up the recessed wall right of Captain Pugwash is an awesome route that frequently forms.

Pitches of 15m (3), 60m (4), 60m (5), 40m (4), 40m (4+).

Araksfjord

Brokke

3. Soft Option WI4

Valle

Rysstad

Flatestoylsasen

500m. The obvious curving gully line is a magnificent classic climb and arguably the finest route of its grade in Setesdal. When combined with a traverse over the summit of the mountain it provides one of the best mountain days the valley has to offer, during which parties will need to move quickly to avoid benightment. The route starts with a steep ice fall before endless steps divide extensive snow slopes. When snow levels are low the route can be water-ice for the first 400m. To descend, continue over the summit and walk south back to the road.

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Straumefjellet

Valle GR 180550

Hellesfjellet

First ascent: L.Atkinson & P.Watkins, 1980s.

Silberwand Besteland

2. The Great Gully WI4

4

3 2 Photo: Steve Broadbent

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet

5. Slanting Gully WI3

Valle GR 175508

200m. The slanting gully left of Tsunami. Descend by abseil down trees to the left.

Araksfjord

6. Captain Pugwash WI6

Bygland

First ascent: J.Hall & P.Ramsden, 21st February 2001.

Ă…seral

First ascent: L.Atkinson & friend, 1980s.

Valle GR 173508

Loefjell Brokke

200m. Setesdal's great nautical ice-adventure... The ice smear dropping almost to the lake-side down the big black wall is seen clearly from the Rysstad Ferriesente. This route is traditionally accessed by pedalo boat, and details of any alternative approaches are not known. The descent is by abseil down the line of ascent, and night-crossings of the lake can pose further difficulties... Pitches of 60m (4), 60m (4+), 40m (5+), 40m (6).

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5

6 Photo: Dave Barlow

Adam Renshaw and Giles Cranston take to the lake, experimenting further with boats and pedalos and opting to use paddles as well as pedals... Paddles on a pedalo? There is some doubt about the ethics of this practice!

Bygland

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Straumefjellet

Whilst standing on the lake shore considering the problem, I realised that the mound of snow next to me had a piece of pink plastic sticking

Araksfjord

Hellesfjellet

The lake beneath the wall no longer freezes and unfortunately the approach from the north was blocked by vertical cliffs dropping into the water. With the approach from the south looking long and arduous over snow-covered boulder fields the options appeared to be limited.

What we really needed was a boat, but where do you find one of those in Setesdal in the middle of winter?

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Rysstad

Silberwand Besteland

e had been staring at this route from the Solvgarden complex across the lake for almost a week. The great west face of Straumefjellet was streamed with ice-lines frozen to the rock walls.

The black wall at the northern end was both steep and continuous and the line of ice running up it looked both difficult and temporary.

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Paul Ramsden

Gravel Pit Quarry

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Captain Pugwash

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet out of the edge. Further investigation revealed a two person pedalo padlocked to a large rock. Enquiries at the Solvgarden Hotel office resulted in the production of a key and the request to be careful out there!

Jim Hall was up for it and the plan quickly evolved to the point of no return. We were committed to the waves.

Our plan was to load all the ice climbing equipment into one rucksack and to strap this between the two seats before setting out for the far shore. Unfortunately, during the trial run, the pedalo sank with a large hole in its hull. Undaunted by this setback we found a second pedalo beneath the snow and this one proved to be far more sea-worthy.

We set out at dawn the next day and crossed the kilometre of water to reach the base of the looming black wall with a continuous ice line running up it. We tied off the pedalo and set about our work.

The route was steep and sunny, just about as nice as ice climbing can get. We rapped back down, somewhat tired, and set about what we thought would be a simple leg pump back across the lake in time for tea.

The outbound journey to the route had taken just 15 minutes but the return turned into a bit of an epic. A strong head-wind coupled with the dimensions of the pedalo paddles – which were clearly designed for a child – resulted in severe leg cramp and caused the journey to take well over two hours.

Looking back, perhaps we had not considered our skills and lack of experience with respect to pedalo action. Perhaps we should also have considered the implications of falling into the lake, but then again good things come to those who dare!

Jon Ammond Lund, Nils Rune Birkeland and Dave Marshall join in the fun... Setesdal's unique pedalo approach to Captain Pugwash WI6 (page 118). Adam Renshaw

The walls of Straumefjellet are the home to several significant-looking ice lines. The angle is less steep than some of the other terrain in the valley and the featured, gullied nature of the ground channels the ice into chimneys and runnels that don't share the exposure of some of their neighbours. That said, the wonderful mix of snow and ice lends itself to perfect nevé and fast, enjoyable climbing. Having dispatched the torturous approach, we geared up below our chosen target.

After a couple of long steady pitches on perfect plastic ice, we found ourselves in a bay below the steepening upper half of the route. The more direct line was not properly formed and consisted of chandeliers and cascading water, forcing us to continue up a steep, but wonderfully solid, wall slightly to the right. This featureless wall was technically straightforward but, on little more than front points for feet, calves and forearms were not long in starting their quiet burn.

Bygland

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Flatestoylsasen

I stopped for breath atop one particularly large boulder – balancing as might the Spirit of Ecstasy on the bonnet of a Rolls Royce – and took stock of the ground ahead. More of the same, but at least through the sparse birch our objective was in sight. We had spied a line near to the head of the lake that would afford climbing within an hour or so's walk from the road. In colder years I had heard that it was possible to walk along the frozen ice of the lake. This year we were not afforded that luxury and so the boulder hop had begun.

Araksfjord

Straumefjellet

Boulder fields, covered in a dusting of snow, are just one such pleasure. A jumbled field of rocks ranging from melon to car sized.

All placed at random spacing and innumerable angles, forcing you to balance, jump, skip from ice slicked spike to notch to edge. Rucksack swimming up and down your back, arms pin wheeling as you run the gauntlet of a broken ankle in any one of the hidden voracious boot eating holes that surround you. The traverse of such terrain is in equal parts both absorbing and exhausting.

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Rysstad

Hellesfjellet

he life of a mountaineer is full of esoteric pleasures enjoyed by the privileged and demented few that make the wild places, the hard to reach places, their home.

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Silberwand Besteland

Kevin Kelly

Falkenut

T

Tsunami

Gravel Pit Quarry

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Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Straumefjellet

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet It was a fantastic stamina pitch that had brought us to a good belay under some large rock roofs that then barred further progress. We gathered ourselves and searched with our eyes for the line. To our right a runnel of ice led away from the main line to cut under the roofs and up to what we hoped would be the top, but as far as we could see it thinned to verglas on a blank slab that would offer tenuous passage.

To our left the main body of ice continued, but around the corner could be the heard the whisper of water cascading down to the lower ice fall.

Brian had led the pumpy preceding pitch, so it was left to me to find away through to the upper ice fall. I did not fancy hooking millimetres thick ice with little in the way of protection, so I opted to pop my head around the corner and try and cut across the main fall to its upper left side. We knew from our reconnaissance that the there was plenty of ice above and if a line could be forced through, the route was in the bag.

The roofs above us gave way from rock to desperate-looking ice, forcing me further left. Now out over the face I planted both tools firmly and leaned out, straining as far as I could, to try and get a better view around the corner. The line was obvious. A rail of cauliflower ice footholds led across the face to a solid looking buttress of ice that would afford steady passage to the walls above. The only complication was the waterfall cascading over the middle of the traverse.

As ice forms in icefalls the flow and course of water through the structure can change constantly as channels in the ice close and open. In this case the water had found its way out on to the front of the face. A freezing torrent of water blasted the foot rail and an area of ice three metres across.

Like I said before, 'esoteric pleasures'. The terrain looked reasonable even if the newly discovered water hazard looked unpleasant. I placed two good screws and prepared to sprint the traverse. I thought that it would be more prudent to risk a bigger fall than to stop in the cataract. Ice climbing is at its most technical when you are going sideways.

So 'sprint' is probably a bit of an exaggeration, but once I entered the flow of water my movements became nothing short of frantic. The ice-cold water pounded on my helmet and shoulders. Cold jets blasted down my upraised sleeves and blinded me with spray. I distinctly recall

Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

With the completion of the last pitch we had Tsunami in the bag, aptly named for its tidal wave pitch. Our saturated ropes now frozen to awkward sticks of nylon and with our teeth starting to rattle, we made a quick abseil descent and launched once more into the boulder field.

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the sensation of suffocating as water filled my nose and mouth. Coughing and spluttering, I arrived at the foot of the buttress. There, with the gentle tug of the ropes at my waist as they swung in the flow, I banged in a good screw and now desperate to generate heat, sprinted up to a good belay below the final wall. A few minutes later I was joined there by a grinning Brian, always one to enjoy things unpleasant in nature.

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Rysstad - Straumefjellet

Morning light illuminates the upper section of Tsunami WI5 (page 117).

Steve Broadbent

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Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

Hellesfjellet East Face Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 172468

Loefjell

This beautiful buttress lies 1km south of the hamlet of Helle and provides two awesome ice lines. When fully formed these world-class routes are the most striking lines in the valley and the hardest routes climbed to date.

A Few Good Men remains unrepeated at the time of publication, whilst Code Red has had 2 subsequent ascents on the same day.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available at the road side and the approach is directly up the hillside to the base of the routes. The routes are accessible in 30 minutes.

Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

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Photos page 128 & 133

2. A Few Good Men WI6+ First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 12th February 2003

300m. The right-hand pillar provides numerous steps of steep ice, giving a route of exceptionally sustained difficulty. Pitches of 70m (4), 55m (5), 55m (5), 45m (6), 40m (6+), 45m (6), 55m (5). Abseil descent to the left of Code Red.

The big one! Setesdal's infamous Code Red WI6+ is one of the valley's hardest and best icefalls.

Bygland

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Hellesfjellet

300m. With numerous overhanging sections of cauliflower ice, the left-hand pillar is a climb of national importance and perhaps the most sought-after route in the valley. Pitches of 60m (3), 55m (6+), 40m (5), 35m (6), 30m (6), 50m (6+), 30m (6). Descent is by means of an 'airy' abseil to the left.

Araksfjord

Silberwand Besteland

First ascent: J.Hall & P.Ramsden, 23rd February 2001

Valle

Rysstad

Falkenut

1. Code Red WI6+

Hwy 45

Gravel Pit Quarry

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – If you are good enough to climb these routes then you probably don't need much advice from a guidebook.

However, the first ascensionists all declared some concern about horizontal cracks running through the structure of the routes: as the formations thaw they tend to break and fall slightly before re-freezing into position.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

125

Bykle

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

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̔

B

Code Red

Jim Hall

efore the era of cheap flights the trip to Norway involved a ferry crossing from North Shields. Back then a Smörgåsbord was not a metaphor, as it seems to have become these days, but dinner on the Norwegian ferry. Some things, however, have not changed in the intervening years of development of Norwegian climbing: there are always the short days and long nights. The nights are a challenge to fill when a beer in a bar can cost as much as a three course meal in other European countries.

Geoff and Paul had been to Setesdal before so were well-prepared for our winter trip in 2001. As well as being loaded up with food, beers and ice-climbing gear, the cars we drove onto the ferry at North Shields contained a video recorder, a wide selection of VHS videos and a television. These technologies would enable us to end every day of climbing with a night of our self-proclaimed Setesdal Film Festival: usually a double bill, sometimes a triple, which took us from the early sun-set through to the moment that tiredness got the better of us, dinner consumed and ice tools sharpened for the next day.

The diversity of projects that adorn the walls of the valley of Setesdal makes it a truly inspiring destination. On the first day the range of possibilities is bewildering. As the days go by and you get the measure of the place, route by route, lines that hardly made sense at first glance begin to shape into climbable prospects. Driving up and down the valley passing scrutiny imperceptibly turns into mute obsession. And prospects turn from being climbable in some abstract sense by some unnamed agent, into being a scenario in which you might find yourself snow-shoeing through the cold morning, untying ropes, tightening crampons and making the first-ever blow upon some previously implausible feature. The transition from an abstract concept to an absolutely personal predicament takes place over a series of days. In the meantime you taste the amazing diversity that Setesdal has to offer: gentle swathes of ice-covered slabs; dripping ice falls; Scottish style gullies.

On the far side of the valley from the Solvgarden hotel site, where we were staying in chalets, a pristine smear of ice cascaded almost directly

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Endless steep cauliflowers on one of Setesdal's undeniable classics – Code Red WI6+ (page 125) Pawel Karczmarczyk collection

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Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

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Rysstad - Hellesfjellet into the lake. We had to climb it, but how the hell could we get to it?

An approach on foot would involve several kilometres of awkward scrambling along the lakeside screes. An easier option was sealed in a deal with the campsite manager, and the following morning Paul and I smashed the ice on the edge of the lake and set off across the water in a pedalo, our packs balanced between us. The sun hit the icefall on the other side early and, perhaps as a consequence, the ice features were particularly flamboyant, even by Setesdal standards.

As I smashed big reaches over lips of ice a champagne explosion of fragments reflected the rising sun. Ephemeral, but total, joy. Captain Pugwash had been created, and to our relief the pedalo was returned intact to the campsite. After such a pleasant day why was the attraction of that thing on the other side of the valley– so much bigger, darker and more threatening – becoming utterly compelling?

That evening on the line-up for the Setesdal Film Festival was “A Few Good Men”, in which a Navy Marine, Santiago is found brutally beaten and suffocated to death. It is suspected that Santiago was the victim of a violent punishment by his fellow Navy marines – a Code Red. The consequences of the Code Red are ugly, bloody and on this occasion fatal. But during the course of the subsequent military trial it is established that Code Reds are standard in Guantanamo Bay, where the film is set, as a means of enforcing discipline and getting sloppy Marines to follow procedure.

The next day Paul and I found ourselves snow-shoeing through the cold morning, untying ropes, tightening crampons and making the first, ever, blow upon the previously implausible series of ice pillars that had become the inescapable object of our obsession. 300m of ice stretched above us in what, during the course of that day, was to become Code Red. In some senses climbing vertical ice is a routine mechanism. Yet as one 60m pitch follows another, the physical and mental attrition dominates all else. Stepping from the secure ground of the belay and winding out the rope length to the first screw, struggling (in the era before holsters and levers) to place the screw, and departing from its doubtful security to a further expanse of verticality becomes ever more harrowing. The subtle variants in verticality – the lips, mushrooms and icicles – may offer respite, but a shift in orientation is

Araksfjord Bygland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Silberwand Besteland

Pawel Karczmarczyk about to get to grips with the final pillar of Code Red WI6+ (page 125) Pawel Karczmarczyk collection

Valle

Rysstad

Falkenut

The short Norwegian daily journey of the sun turned too soon from the brightness of the morning to the cold greyness of the afternoon, but the discipline of the Code Red had not yet reached its conclusion. The monstrous middle icicle was behind us but the punishment had been so merciless that the shorter pitches above were each able to extract a further toll. Then it was complete. We had endured. A phenomenon, of which we were innocently ignorant driving onto the ferry in North Shields, but which had in the space of a few days grown into an unfathomable obsession, was now known, lived, sensed in a way that our punished limbs and spinning consciousness would not let us forget.

Hwy 45

Gravel Pit Quarry

enough to transform them into obstacles that can turn the gruelling upward process into a panicked struggle. Your grip is slipping on the icy shaft of your axe. You try to pull the rope over the axe head for a vestige of security but inexplicably the rope is too tight to lift. You reach for a screw but flounder. You shout. But somehow, this time, you hold it together.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

129

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

Bykle

A Few Good Men

Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Ă…seral Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

130

Ě”

O

Kevin Kelly

ften in the climbing game, especially when you're dealing with alpine routes or winter lines, there exists a requirement to get up at indecent times of the day. I'm not one who likes to be late for anything, and when faced with the prospect of a particularly early start I will sleep fitfully, waking every twenty minutes to check that I am in no danger of oversleeping. It makes for a terrible night's sleep. This time, lying in my bunk, listening to my own breathing and waiting for the alarm, it was not the fear of sleeping-in that was keeping me from drifting off, it was the thought of the 300 metre-high line of hanging icicles and pillars a little further down the valley, waiting for us in the icy silence of a still black Norwegian night.

The rock buttress that already sported the magnificent Code Red is situated above the hamlet of Helle. This improbable wall towers above the road and sports two obvious parallel lines of very steep ice. As soon as we had arrived in the valley and had driven past it we knew that we would think ourselves impostors in the role of climbers had we ignored the single most incredible unclimbed line in the valley. There were no excuses; the weather was stable and cold, the ice thick and continuous.

Sometimes I have felt in my mountaineering career to be trapped by a line or objective that was so compelling that I had no choice but to attempt it.

This was one such occasion.

We rose early, breakfasted in an edgy quiet and prepared our gear. Under a clear sky, the last stars still visible as the first light coloured the horizon, we made the short approach. Ice climbing is a wonderful thing, indeed I think my favourite thing. From a distance, or even worse, from above, ice lines can look relentlessly steep and intimidating; however, once you're underneath them, perspective changes everything and they begin to look altogether more feasible and forgiving. You see ledges, and ramps, caves, all sorts of features that encourage you upward as your eye starts to trace a line. The nervousness goes then and a calm focus sets in as you abandon your imagination and deal with the reality at hand. First the ritual of gearing up and with the ice axe swings and the foot kicks comes the Looking up at the daunting overhangs of A Few Good Men WI6+ (page 125) Kevin Kelly

Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Falkenut

Pitch 5 looked to start amiably enough. A convenient ramp led a short way back on to the centre of the line, but from there the line looked steep and technical. The cauliflowers had given way to enormous mushrooms, pushing the climbing past the vertical. Brian Davison is a determined, unflappable soul, who was in his element. He rushed through the stance collecting the spare gear with barely a word spoken. If this was his concession to nerves then that was as far as it went: He climbed without hesitation, though it was not long once he had gained the mushrooms that his pace slowed.

Hwy 45

Gravel Pit Quarry

rhythm. A Few Good Men was no different. The first pitches are up initially steep but good ice that lessens in angle as they fuse into the cone under the main ice fall. We climbed this quickly and realised that our proximity had foreshortened everything. The good ice gave way to poor but reasonably angled cauliflower ice. Placing tools took little effort and crampons were buried up to the ball of the foot. Placing screws in this terrain is a little more laborious, as you excavate the buried blue ice underneath.

Pitch 4 saw the cauliflowers steepen and grow. Good feet were placed under bulges and tools placed straight armed in hooks above. Each one a miniature overhang to power past. Screws tucked up underneath and extended out of their recesses. Fresh arms starting to feel the first slow stiffening of fatigue as the lactic acid started to build. I had led this pitch and delivered us to a comfortable and wonderfully exposed belay on the left of the main ice fall.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

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Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

132

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet He had disappeared from view and, as the rope inched out, ice whistled continuously past my stance out into the void, exploding on the cone far below. I could hear the constant smashing of ice and tool as Brian fought a line through the overhanging features. It was a long time before I heard a distant shout of “Safe!”.

Stiff with cold I stripped my belay and, rushing in the way a frozen climber does at the promise of being warm again, started to climb quickly. I could easily see from below the channel carved by Brian in his battle upwards; a line zigzagging through the mushrooms, demarcated by the gaps, like missing teeth, in the icicle fringes hanging from the lips of the icy bulges.

Now the climbing is technical and utterly absorbing. It is not long before I am being blinded by sweat as I follow the ropes upwards. I pull over one last mushroom and gain a more uniform wall below the upper pillar. Far on my right I can see Brian belayed behind a large ice pillar. Three metres above me I can see his last screw before the traverse across to his stance.

There is nothing in between the last runner and the stance. As soon as I take out the last runner I am faced with a horribly exposed 10 metre traverse over to the belay. I curse his laziness in not placing more gear – I'd rather he'd thinned the belay out a bit. I climb up to the last screw and my stomach drops. I feel almost nauseous. The last screw is placed 30 centimetres below a 15 centimetre-wide fracture line that cuts clean through to the rock below and zigzags off in either direction the entire width of the ice fall. The bottom section is completely detached from the top half. In the thaw that had preceded our arrival in the valley, the whole bottom section had sagged on the wall.

I no longer have any hesitation in removing the last runner – there is no deep breath and forced calming – I rip it out as fast as I can and climb quickly to the safety of Brian's cave belay. He is grinning like a Cheshire cat, his face oddly lumpy and bruised from fielding ice lumps dislodged by his own tools. Not only pleased with his incredible lead, but with the upping of the ante which appeals to the more twisted parts of a climber's mind. It just got a touch more serious.

The belay is comfortable and affords a rest and a break from the exposure. This seems to serve as an emphasising contrast with the start of pitch 6, which falls to me. The mushrooms are behind us and the going looks more straightforward, if somewhat steep and mind numbingly exposed. The step from an ice cave on to the front of an ice pillar is con-

It seemed to be somewhat unjust, considering how hard gravity makes you battle to maintain upward progress, that getting down was such a fight. Unwilling to abseil back down the now suspect line, we took to abbing down over tree-covered ledges to the left of both routes. And as the darkness fell, the ropes started to catch and jam, every thrown bundle finding the crown of a tree; fatigue, hunger and dehydration fraying tempers and nerves. We timed the descent alone at two-and-a-half hours.

We stumbled to our sacks and back to the car where Geoff, who had been watching the progress of our head torches, was waiting. Code Red had its sister route and we had had a truly unforgettable day, free to then climb whatever we felt like.

Araksfjord Bygland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Silberwand Besteland

The angle soon starts to ease and I find myself in a snow bay and can see the tops of trees poking out above the short wall above me. We are nearly there and as the exposure ends I feel the tension leave my body.

I'm free from the wall and, bar a short steep wall, one that on a good day with fresh arms you may even solo, we are at the top. I bring Brian up and he quickly dispatches this last pitch. There is no elation, no triumphant bellow. I have done routes where I howled like a loon at the top, shook hands, slapped backs, grinned like maniacs; for some reason, not on this route. Perhaps we were tired; perhaps the big crack had spooked us both.

Brian preferred to quote Pink Floyd: “Comfortably Numb”, he said.

Valle

Rysstad

Falkenut

I tension out over space with my right tool, a solid swing with my left, the vibration up the shaft telling me that the placement was good, a tug and then locking it off as I gather my feet under me, un-hook the right tool and I'm on it. Then it's just left right, left right, screw, left right, left right... The pillar isn't too long and I can see respite in the shape of a small step that will allow me to get my heels down for a bit and rest my pumped limbs. It's at this point as ice climbers that we have to exert the most self-control: the temptation being to sprint to the easy ground – a dangerous practice, where many out of control climbers have taken huge falls. I stop to place a screw and in doing so accidentally unclip two screws, the second spinning out into space. I hang there, mesmerised, as I watch it free-fall to the bottom.

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Gravel Pit Quarry

sistently one of the most exciting prospects that any ice climber can face.

This one just happened to be 250 metres off the ground and my arms were already wrecked. Fortunately my mind was as addled by fatigue as my arms and I seemed quietly content to press on. Considering that we now had serious reservations about the stability of the whole ice structure, the drive to get to the top was as much fired by necessity as ambition.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Hellesfjellet

133

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45

Besteland Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 168462

Loefjell

The tree-covered hillside 2km to the south of Hellesfjellet has an obvious ice fall up a slot in the face.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available at the roadside. The approach is made directly and the descent is by abseil. The route is accessible in 30 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The forested nature of the hillside and the northeasterly aspect mean that the route is often in condition for most of the winter.

Brokke

Valle

Rysstad - Besteland

1. Slot Machine WI4

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

134

First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 8th February 2003

300m. A long adventure up the obvious slot...

Silberwand Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 160428

The Silberwand is a beautiful wall that is a major sport climbing area in summer. The southern edge of the wall regularly forms an icefall in winter and it is believed that this has been climbed on many occasions in past years.

Approaches and Parking – The route lies 10km south of Rysstad. The only parking is on the roadside, unless a pull-in area has been created by the snow ploughs. The approach is direct through the forest to the base of the falls, taking approximately 30 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The falls face northeast but are broad and have a large bowl above them. Care should be taken to assess the potential for avalanches from this bowl.

1. Silberwand Falls WI2+

First ascent: Unknown

200m. Climb the falls directly, taking care on the upper ice slopes and snow fields. It may be prudent to abseil from a point where the difficulties end, before the good ice runs out.

Rysstad - Besteland.

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Loefjell

Åseral

1. Little Road to Jerez WI3

First ascent: G.Hornby & S.Sammut, 27th February 2005.

200m. Follow the pleasant stream bed for 4 pitches to easier ground.

Descend by abseil.

Falkenut Gravel Pit Quarry

Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Valle GR 169422

This route takes the frozen stream directly above the bend in the road and is visible only when there is little snow covering. The route was climbed in bitterly cold weather but with almost zero snow fall.

Approaches and Parking – Drive north up the back road from Sordal for 6km. The route lies above the big bend in the river. Parking is available below the route, from where the approach takes about 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route is quickly buried after heavy snow fall, faces to the northwest and receives little sun during the day.

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Falkenut Northwest Face

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Silberwand Falls WI2+ (page 134) follows the easy-angled ice up the left side of the Silberwand.

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

1

135

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Rysstad - Gravel Pit Quarry

Gravel Pit Quarry Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Austad GR 179387

Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen

This easily accessible venue lies by the side of the minor road running up the east side of the valley, accessed via the bridge at Ose. Drive north from Ose to the small settlement of Sordal. 2km west of here there is an open area on the north side of the road, which marks the entrance to an old quarry.

Approaches and Parking – A pile of aggregate allows access to a twotiered wall behind it. Please take care not to obstruct access at the quarry entrance. Above the quarry is a rock face that provides 2 single pitch climbs facing south. Routes are accessible in 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes face west and are prone to collapse in the afternoon sun. The names of the routes explain the environmental hazards quite succinctly!

The Upper Tier

Straumefjellet

1. Gone Tomorrow WI6

Hellesfjellet

First ascent: J.Hall & P.Ramsden, 25th February 2001.

Besteland

40m. The left-hand icefall provides significant technical and mental difficulty.

Immediately after the first ascent the entire pillar collapsed whilst the climbers were sorting gear at the top of the route!

Silberwand

2. Here Today WI5

Falkenut

40m. The right-hand icefall is only marginally easier.

Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

The Lower Tier These routes consist of variable amounts of ice depending on the season, and may not always form.

3. The Leaning Tower of Pizza WI4

First ascent: P.Baker & B.Davison, 26th January 2004.

35m. The icefall immediately left of the leaning pine tree.

4. Oggi WI4

First ascent: P.Baker & B.Davison, 26th January 2004.

136

Photo opposite

First ascent: G.Holland & P.Eastwood, 25th February 2001.

35m. The gully and pillar to the right.

Rysstad - Gravel Pit Quarry

Bygland

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Flatestoylsasen

Paul Ramsden on the second ascent of Here Today WI5 (previous page)

Araksfjord

Straumefjellet

45m. The groove line 50m right of Ieri.

Hellesfjellet

First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 8th February 2003.

Valle

Rysstad

Silberwand Besteland

6. Domani WI3

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Falkenut

40m. Climb the right side of the ice screen to a steep pillar.

Gravel Pit Quarry

First ascent: K.Kelly & B.Davison, 8th February 2003.

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

5. Ieri WI4

Bykle Veiane

137

Veiane

Loefjell

Brokke

Flatestoylsasen

Straumefjellet

Hellesfjellet

Besteland

Silberwand

Falkenut

Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

On the crux pitch of Beyond the Fringe WI4+ (page 139)

138

Rysstad - Sordalsheii Bykle

Hwy 45

Rysstad Valle

Araksfjord

Bygland

Ă…seral

Rysstad - Sordalsheii

Sordalsheii South Face

Hwy 45

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

320m. A superb climb up the obvious ice streak on the south face. The route is predominantly up straightforward slabs to a difficult fringe. This can be tackled direct (WI5) or via a stepped-corner to the left (WI4+).

Immediately following the first ascent the fringe collapsed and fell from the face. Subsequent suitors should therefore ensure that the temperatures and sun-melt potential have been properly assessed prior to an ascent.

Descend by abseil from trees to the south of the route.

Bygland

Flatestoylsasen

Photo page 138

Araksfjord

Straumefjellet

First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 14th February 2003.

Valle

Rysstad

Hellesfjellet

The south face of Sordalsheii provides a tempting ice streak, which, when in condition, creates one of the most compelling lines in the valley.

Approaches and Parking – The climb is accessed from the minor road on the east side of the valley. Cross the river at the Ose bridge, then drive north for 8.8km until you are level with the falls and facing a black sign that says "50 Privat veg". Park just before the sign and approach the falls directly. The route is accessible in 30 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – Southwest facing with a broad and open aspect, this route is vulnerable to thaw and collapse. Ensure that you have properly considered the potential for warming during the day.

Silberwand Besteland

Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Austad GR 186395

1. Beyond the Fringe WI4+

Bykle Veiane

1

139

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Rysstad - Tveitfjellet

Tveitfjellet North Face Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Austad GR 210384

Loefjell Brokke

The broad north face of Tveitfjellet has a large number of excellent ice flows. Known as the Seven Sisters Wall, it could provide as many as 12 lines under heavily iced conditions.

Approaches and Parking – Driving south along the main road there is a turning left into Tveit. Take this turning and then turn immediately right again, following a snowy road parallel to the highway. Park at the end of this road, from where the face is approached directly in 30 to 60 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes are north facing and very slightly concave. The face holds ice long after the other routes in the region have disappeared, although in some years they do not form thickly.

An assessment of conditions can easily be made from the road.

Straumefjellet

300m. The longest line at the left end of the face has the shortest approach and starts up a frozen stream in the trees. It provides a series of steep steps with pitches of 90m (2), 45m (3+), 35m (3+), 50m (4), 45m (4), 35m (3+).

Abseil descent from trees to the left of the route.

Hellesfjellet

Flatestoylsasen

1. You've been Tango'ed WI4

First ascent: G.Wilks & G.Hornby, 29th March 2003.

Besteland

2. Agent Orange WI4

Silberwand

First ascent: G.Wilks & G.Hornby, 28th March 2003.

200m. This is the third line from the left, lying immediately left of the

Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

140

1

2

Rysstad - Tveitfjellet

Bykle Veiane

large rock overhang above the left end of the terrace. Pitches of 35m (3+), 55m (4), 55m (4), 55m (2). Abseil descent from trees down the right side.

Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord

3. Silver Bullet WI4+

Bygland

First ascent: A.Brash & P.Ramsden, 13th March 2000.

Ă…seral

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

140m. The straight continuous line to the left of Dane Gelt has pitches of 50m (4), 20m (4+), 20m (4+), 50m (4). Abseil descent down Dane Gelt.

Paul Ramsden on the first ascent of Silver Bullet WI4+ (this page) Andy Brash

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

190m. The widest piece of ice towards the right side of the terrace is accessed by some thinly iced slabs and a steep groove through overhangs. Pitches of 70m (5), 15m (4), 50m (5), 55m (4). Abseil descent on trees and Abalakov anchors. Photo pages 143 & 145

Silberwand Besteland

First ascent: A.Brash, P.Ramsden & G.Hornby, 10th March 2000.

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

4. Dane Gelt WI5

3

4

141

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Rysstad - Tveitfjellet

̔

O

Dane Gelt

Geoff Hornby

ne of the big risks with a summer rock climbing trip to Setesdal is the chance of extended periods of rain. I was standing on the side of the field by Valle Tourist Office, watching a helicopter being loaded with building materials by a couple of young Norwegian lads who were working the summer doing essential hutte repairs for the back country trekking association.

Brokke

Over the next years we climbed together on the Pic Sans Nom and the Kyrelifjell wall and in passing Nils asked if I was interested in water-ice climbing. Following the confirmation, he suggested we should come back in the middle of winter to take a look at the north face of Tveitfjellet and the Seven Sisters waterfalls.

Flatestoylsasen

Loefjell

I don’t know what started my conversation with those lads, but this was my first meeting with the local climbing guru Nils Rune Birkeland.

Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

142

The following week I stood beneath the wall in the pouring rain and counted the number of drainage lines snaking down the upper rock walls and flowing between the lower buttresses.

Seven months later, our first trip to Setesdal in winter was in place.

My work colleague Paul Ramsden was up for some action, and top Canadian ice climber Andy Brash was recruited for his expertise.

We stood on the road beneath the Tveitfjellet wall and looked up at the incredible ice formations that had formed. The approach, however, was far harder then than it is today since the deforestation of the hillside. We fought up through deep snow and dense tree cover to eventually arrive at the foot of the substructure below the wall.

A thin series of slabs and walls linked together to provide Paul with a long and scary pitch leading to the big ledge at half height. From here the majesty of the wall was exposed for all to see. We chose the thickest and most continuous ice fall as our continuation.

I led away up a straightforward wide groove of ice, with the sounds of Andy’s voice lecturing on the correct techniques for the placing of protection. Quickly I arrived at a spacious ledge below a steepening in the headwall. Andy grabbed the rack and sauntered up the face, slipping screws into bomber ice every 7 metres to eventually take a

Andy Brash on the first ascent of the superb north face of Tveitfjellet via Dane Gelt WI5 (page 141)

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Åseral

Straumefjellet

One year, the payment was made, but the Vikings were bored during a long hot summer and decided to attack the UK anyway. This was thought to be a little unjust and irresponsible and so it was our pleasure to name the first route on the North face of Tveitfjellet ‘Dane Gelt’ lest we ever forget the unreliability of the Viking horde!

Bygland

Hellesfjellet

As for a route name: well one had been circulating in my mind as we climbed. The UK had been plagued by Viking attacks for several centuries. The British eventually did a deal with the Vikings and in return for a sizeable payment every year, the Vikings left us alone. This payment was known as the Dane Gelt.

Araksfjord

Silberwand Besteland

Before long we were sitting in the snow drinking tea and eating chocolate biscuits; such a British thing to do.

Valle

Rysstad

Falkenut

The descent was simple – just put a sling around a tree and rap down.

Hwy 45

Gravel Pit Quarry

hanging stance as the ice rolled back; a truly excellent pitch. Paul took over for the last pitch, turning first right and then back left to arrive at the top of the wall and a spacious ledge with tree belays.

Bykle Veiane

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Rysstad - Tveitfjellet

143

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Loefjell Brokke Flatestoylsasen Straumefjellet Hellesfjellet Besteland Silberwand Falkenut Gravel Pit Sordalsheii Tveitfjellet Heisfossen Quarry

144

Rysstad - Heisfossen

Heisfossen Area Overview: Page 107 Map: Austad GR 224398

A classic and easy climbing objective, providing another good introduction to multi-pitch ice climbing.

Approaches and Parking – This classic and popular icefall is clearly visible from the opposite side of the valley, but hard to spot when driving beneath it. It is therefore advisable to record the distance from the junction after the Ose bridge. 5.3km north from the junction there is a small bridge on the road – this is the stream running from the Heisfossen. Park on the left near a dark brown house, from where it is possible to walk up the stream bed to the start of the falls in about 5 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The falls face west but are usually quite substantial and remain stable for much of the winter.

1. The Heisfossen WI2

First ascent: British Army, 1970s.

150m. One of the valley's classic days out, this excellent climb is thought to have been climbed by numerous Army teams in the 1970s. There is a choice of lines available, and descent can be made by abseil either from Abalakov anchors or trees alongside the route.

Rysstad - Heisfossen

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Heisfossen Tveitfjellet Sordalsheii

Gravel Pit Quarry

Falkenut

Silberwand Besteland

Hellesfjellet

Straumefjellet

Flatestoylsasen

Brokke

Loefjell

Ă…seral

Geoff Hornby on the historic first ascent of Dane Gelt WI5 (page 141)

145

Veiane Bykle

Hwy 45

Rysstad Valle

Araksfjord

Bygland

Åseral

Prestefjellet

Skorsfjell

Stigeheii

Tunnel of Love

Hedderviksfossen

Sandnes

Reiarsfossen

Frøysnes

Kleivstøylhei

146

Kleivstøylhei

Frøysnes

Reiarsfossen

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Veiane

Bykle

Hwy 45

Rysstad

Valle

Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

ARAKSFJORDEN

Ose To Straumland

147

Bykle

Araksfjorden - Overview

Veiane Hwy 45

Austad

9

Valle Rysstad

Juvefjellet Austad

Moi

Araksfjord

Skildalsfjell

Bygland Åseral

Prestefjellet page 148

Tveitfjellet

Reiarsfossen page 156

Ose

Skorsfjell page 150 Stigeheii page 150

Prestefjellet Skorsfjell

Sandnes

rden

Tunnel of Love Hedderviksfossen

Araksfj o

Stigeheii

Sandnes page 156 Skuggefjell

Frøysnes

Fundingsheii

Tunnel of Love page 152 Heddersvikfossen page 154

Åraksbø

Frøysnes page 158

Reiskæven

Kleivstøylhei page 160 Sandviksfjellet

9

N 0km

2km

Sandnes

Longelifjellet

Araksfjorden – Ose to Straumland

Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

To the south of Austad the valley swings southward again and the main Highway 9 runs along the west side of a large lake known as Araksfjorden.

On the east side of the valley is a smaller road which can be accessed either via the bridge just south of Ose, or at Bygland at the southern end of Araksfjorden. For simplicity, routes on the east side are described first, followed by the routes along the Highway 9 on the west side of the lake.

Prestefjellet Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 246361

148

The Priest has seemingly avoided the attention of ice climbers until 2012, when, according to the farmer living beneath the face, it formed the largest ice formation he had seen. In fact, it was tempting to drive past the big wide icefall running for 200m down the southwest face of the mountain thinking it must be Heisfossen or another classic falls.

Approaches and Parking – Cross the river at the bridge south of Ose, and turn left at the T-junction. 800m north of the T-junction you pass a pair of red farm buildings and in front of you is a road sign with 'Austad'

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

Tunnel of Love

200m. Climb the falls direct for 4 pitches. The second pitch provides a pitch of 75˚ ice. Abseil from trees down the south side of the route.

Bygland

Heddersvikfossen

Photo page 161

Araksfjord

Sandnes

Valle Rysstad

Reiarsfossen

1. The Blessing WI3+

First ascent: D.Barlow, P.Seabrook & G.Hornby, 13th February 2012.

Hwy 45

Frøysnes

on it. Turn right 20m before this sign into the driveway of a farm. Drive on, passing the first right turning into the farm, to take the second right turning into a snow machine parking area.

The farmer charges snow machines for the use of the parking and the use of his farm road, but he waived the charges for the first ascensionists of The Blessing. Climbers should, however, be prepared to pay for access to this route.

Walk up the farm track behind the farm and follow the long southward zigzag, then continue on the next zigzag until level with the bottom of the falls. At this point step into the forest and traverse horizontally to the falls.

The route is accessible in 30 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – This route is thought to have formed for the first time in February 2012. The route is continuous and with thick ice but its southwesterly aspect means it is vulnerable to sun and thaw.

Bykle Veiane

Kleivstøylhei

Araksfjorden - Prestefjellet

149

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45

Skorsfjell West Face Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 257352

Skorsfjell

The screen of west-facing ice immediately north of the first big rock wall.

This route was climbed when the valley was experiencing very good ice coverage and climbing conditions. The route was climbed directly, and received its second ascent from Norwegian climbers the same day.

Approaches and Parking – After crossing the Ose bridge turn right and drive south for 1.1km to park beneath the ice-coated wall in a lay by on the right. This route is somewhat ephemeral and requires specific conditions for it to form. The route is accessible in 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The route faces west and is likely to be subject to thaw in the afternoon. After the first ascent the descent was made by abseil using both trees and Abalakov anchors.

Stigeheii

Valle

Araksfjorden - Skorsfjell & Stigeheii

1. Army Dreamers WI5

Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Prestefjellet Tunnel of Love Hedderviksfossen Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

150

First ascent: A.Chaudry, B.Davison & P.Baker, 31st January 2004.

150m. Climb directly up the icefall, with steep walls connecting ledge systems.

Stigeheii Southwest Face Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Bygland GR 263331

The falls dropping into the lake are not visible from the east side of the valley but are clearly seen from the main Setesdal road. The falls are in a recess on the end of the west facing headland. The buttress provides two ice lines and has been named the Holy Grail Falls area. It may provide a useful second option after a visit to the Tunnel of Love.

Approaches and Parking – Drive south from the Ose bridge for 2.5km to a road tunnel. Park on the left in a lay-by just before the tunnel and then walk south around the tunnel and across the headland to reach the south side of the headland. Step down onto the edge of the lake and walk carefully around and into the bay containing the icefall. Care needs to be taken when walking along the ice and snow around the edge of the lake.

The routes are accessible in 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – These routes are west facing and form the right wall of a cave in the headland. The descents for both routes are by abseil from trees on the routes.

1. Farcical

Climbers enjoying a Farcical Aquatic Ceremony WI5 (this page) above the shores of Araksfjorden.

Araksfjorden - Stigeheii

Bykle Veiane

Farcical Aquatic Ceremony WI5

Hwy 45

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

Tunnel of Love

60m. The right-hand line up walls to the right of the cave.

Bygland

Heddersvikfossen

First ascent: G.Hornby, P.Baker & S.Sammut, 1st February 2004.

Araksfjord

Sandnes

Reiarsfossen

2. Moisten'd Bint WI3

Valle Rysstad

Frøysnes

55m. The central line up the wall immediately right of the cave.

Kleivstøylhei

First ascent: A.Chaudry & B.Davison, 1st February 2004.

151

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Araksfjorden - Tunnel of Love, Guru Wall

The Tunnel of Love (Guru Wall) Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 265336

Prestefjellet Skorsfjell Stigeheii Tunnel of Love Hedderviksfossen Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

This 20m high west-facing ice wall, immediately south of the tunnel, was climbed extensively and repeatedly during the ice climbing festival held in the Valle Motell in January 2004.

With easily accessible, easy to top-rope, short technical climbs, this venue is eminently suitable for the instruction of beginners or for group climbing activities, and has been subsequently used for this purpose. The routes are described from Valle Motell, base for the 2004 Setesdal Ice Festival. left to right and represent the ice lines that formed that year. Whilst it is likely that specific climbs will be difficult to identify in future years, this should at least give an idea as to the grades and possibilities that exist hereabouts.

Approaches and Parking – The wall lies just after the tunnel, some 3.3km south of the T-junction on the east side of the Ose bridge. Parking is available in the large lay-by immediately south of the wall on the left side.

The routes are accessible in less than 1 minute. The descents can be made by abseil from the trees above or by walking down the ramp heading south from the top of the routes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes face southwest and therefore catch a lot of direct sunshine. This means they are prone to melting but they are clearly visible and easy to inspect prior to climbing.

The right end tends to melt out quickly in periods of thaw. The route names reflect the fact that the British climbing group had watched the film ‘The Guru’ just before the festival!

1. Twisting the Turban WI5

First ascent: A.Chaudry, B.Davison & P.Baker, 26th January 2004.

152

Araksfjorden - Tunnel of Love, Guru Wall

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

3. Waxing the Dolphin WI3

First ascent: G.Hornby, P.Baker, A.Chaudhry, B.Davison & S.Sammut, 26th January 2004.

4. Swimming Upstream WI4

First ascent: P.Baker, A.Chaudhry, B.Davison, G. Hornby & S. Sammut, 26th January 2004.

5. Holistic Plumber WI4

Sandnes Reiarsfossen

First ascent: B.Davison, G.Hornby, P.Baker, A.Chaudhry & S.Sammut , 26th January 2004.

Frøysnes

2. Bush Time WI4

Kleivstøylhei

Guru Wall, or the Tunnel of Love, may not be the most idyllic of locations, but does provide a quick roadside fix, and has proved popular for group work and instruction.

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

First ascent: G. Hornby & S. Sammut, 31st January 2004.

6. Gateway to Your Soul WI4

First ascent: G. Hornby & S. Sammut, 31st January 2004.

7. The Maccaroone WI4 First ascent: G. Hornby & S. Sammut, 31st January 2004.

153

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Araksfjorden - Heddersvikfossen

Heddersvikfossen Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Bygland GR 270336

This major water fall was climbed in the 1970s and complements the Tunnel of Love area as an excellent place to bring beginners for their first multi-pitch iceclimbing experience.

Approaches and Parking – Either park in the lay-by at the Tunnel of Love, or use the next lay-by to the south. Access is directly through the trees and takes about 10 minutes.

Prestefjellet Skorsfjell Stigeheii Tunnel of Love Hedderviksfossen Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

Stigeheii page 150

154

Tunnel of Love page 152

Araksfjorden - Heddersvikfossen

Bykle Veiane

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The falls are broad and usually freeze quite thickly providing reliable ice throughout the winter. The descent can be made by abseil from the trees alongside the falls.

Hwy 45

1. Heddersvikfossen WI3

Rysstad

First ascent: British Army, 1970s.

Valle

Araksfjord Bygland

Prestefjellet

Åseral

Kleivstøylhei

Frøysnes

Reiarsfossen

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

250m. A superb and long low-grade outing that provides one of the valley's best 'easy' routes. The first 55m of the climb are the hardest (up to WI3) with extensive grade 2 ground to the top. In some years a cave and icicle fringe in the middle of the route can create an interesting ice-window type exit...

1 Hedderviksfossen

155

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Araksfjorden - Sandnes & Reiarsfossen

Sandnes Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Bygland GR 263337

Prestefjellet

800m south of the Tunnel of Love the road bends around a small headland, just before Sandnes. These falls are located on the south side of the headland above a couple of private houses. The route is accessible in 15 minutes.

Approaches and Parking – A broad wall of low angle ice is accessed by climbing directly up from the road or by turning up through Sandnes to find a small logging track heading back north for 200m. This track can be followed until a traverse across the hillside gains the base of the route.

1. Spraukle WI3

Skorsfjell

First ascent: A.Nelson (solo), February 2004.

Stigeheii Tunnel of Love

80m. This two-pitch route was soloed on the first ascent. An easy descent can be made on foot by walking south around the falls.

The next areas are all located on the west side of the lake and are accessed from the Highway 9. They are described from north to south.

Hedderviksfossen

Reiarsfossen Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 244345

Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

This major waterfall is one of the valley's most famous lines and is one of the only routes in the region to receive ascents every year. The waterfall is a tourist attraction in summer due to its proximity to the road and its volume flow rate.

In winter the falls rarely freeze completely and it is usual to have two distinct halves, separated by running water down the middle. In most years the left side of the falls provides the easiest and safest climbing option, though climbers should be aware that the central part of the falls is subject to partial collapse in periods of thaw. The further left (south) that you climb the safer it is likely to be.

Approaches and Parking – Just south of the falls is a new tourist campsite and hutte complex which provides parking. Approach the falls directly in approximately 10 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – Care needs to be taken over the choice of the line and the potential for thaw and collapse.

1. Reiarsfossen WI3+

First ascent: Unrecorded, but possibly British Army.

156

220m. A magnificent climb that ranks amongst the very best Setesdal has to offer at this grade. Two steep pitches lead to easier ground. Descend by abseil, initially from trees and then Abalakov anchors.

Araksfjorden - Reiarsfossen The magnificent Reiarsfossen WI3+ (page 156), one of the best of Setesdal's 'big falls'. Note the unstable central section which is usually avoided on the left side.

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Kleivstøylhei

Frøysnes

Reiarsfossen

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

1 Reiarsfossen

1 Alternative

157

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Araksfjorden - Frøysnes

2. Slush Puppy WI5

First ascent: A.Brash, P.Ramsden & G.Hornby, 9th March 2000.

Prestefjellet

90m. This excellent climb is located on the wall to the south of the Reiarsfossen and is difficult to see from the Highway 9. From the base of Reiarsfossen head left (south) along a rising ramp through small trees to the base of the route. A direct approach from the road is not recommended due to log jams and iced boulders. The route has an initial steep curtain of ice (sometimes avoidable on the right), followed by a sustained and steep finish. Two pitches of 45 (5), 45m (4). Descend by abseil through trees to the south.

Skorsfjell Stigeheii Tunnel of Love

2

Hedderviksfossen Sandnes

1

Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

158

Frøysnes Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 259310

The obvious couloirs directly above the farm house make excellent easy routes in a very accessible position. Access to these routes is on private land and climbers are encouraged to ask permission at the house directly beneath the falls the day before they climb here.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is available at the farm, from where the routes are accessed directly up the hillside.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – The routes face to the east but are protected from the sun by the couloirs.

Araksfjorden - Frøysnes

1. Kraken Wake WI3+

Bykle Veiane

Hwy 45

First ascent: B.Davison & K.Kelly, 16th February 2003.

230m. The central gully is an excellent route. Descend by abseil.

2. Midwich Cuckoos WI3+

Valle Rysstad

Araksfjord

First ascent: G.Hornby, S.Sammut & N.R.Birkland, 25th January 2004.

Bygland Åseral

Kleivstøylhei

Frøysnes

Reiarsfossen

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

230m. The right-hand couloir is another fine ice-climb with a steep step in its lower section.

2 1 159

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral

Araksfjorden - Kleivstøylhei

Kleivstøylhei East Face Area Overview: Page 148 Map: Austad GR 255295

Prestefjellet Skorsfjell

There are two obvious and impressive big ice lines on the east face of Kleivstøylhei, with an unclimbed central line that finishes at a capping overhang. The wall to the left has further possibilities in a sustained freeze.

Approaches and Parking – Parking is problematic but possible on the road beneath the routes. The best access is to walk up the road 200m north of the routes and then to angle up the hillside from a small track. The routes are accessible in 45 minutes.

Aspect and Environmental Hazards – These routes are ice lines on a rock wall and will become unstable in warm weather. They should only attempted during periods of sustained frost.

Stigeheii

1. Bandido WI4+

First ascent: G.Holland & P.Eastwodd, 21st February 2001.

Tunnel of Love

215m. The left-hand icefall is climbed in 6 pitches with an abseil descent.

30m (2), 40m (5), 40m (3), 40m (3), 25m (4).

Hedderviksfossen

2. Revolvermannen WI4+

Photo page 163

First ascent: J.Hall & P.Ramsden (p1 -3), 19th February 2001. First complete ascent: G.Cranston, 2009.

Sandnes Reiarsfossen

165m. The right-hand icefall was originally climbed in 3 pitches with an abseil descent. 55m (4+), 60m (4), 50m (4). A further 2 pitches up to the ridge-line give a more complete route, first climbed by Giles Cranston in 2009.

Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

2 160 1

Araksfjorden - Kleivstøylhei

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Kleivstøylhei

Frøysnes

Reiarsfossen

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

David Barlow on the first ascent of The Blessing WI3+ (page 149)

161

Bykle Veiane Hwy 45 Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland Åseral Prestefjellet Skorsfjell Stigeheii Tunnel of Love Hedderviksfossen Sandnes Reiarsfossen Frøysnes Kleivstøylhei

162

Araksfjorden - Kleivstøylhei

Revolvermannen - the full monte

̔

I

Paul Seabrook

t had taken several years, and a number of trips with Geoff to other parts of the world, but finally he had decided to share ‘the knowledge’ – the location of the fabled, secret, Norwegian ice climbing region he had been visiting and developing whilst the crowds were flocking to Rjukan.

We had travelled to Setesdal, and I was pleased to see the potential, the quality of the routes, and also the complete absence of other ice climbers – a nice change from the busy Cogne/Ecrin/Argentier tours I had visited for the last few winters.

The day before, Geoff, David and I had climbed a 4-pitch new route on ‘The Priest’ which we’d named ‘The Blessing’. Today our plan had been to look at a new ice line on the walls between Revolvermannen and Bandido, but on closer inspection it looked too thin, so a possible second ascent of Revolvermannen was our fall-back position.

Geoff was interested in further exploration and photography, so left David and me with all the gear and the opportunity to break trail up the wooded, rocky hillside to the base of the route.

It was close to 11am by the time we were geared up and ready to climb. David led the first 35 metres up an iced groove in the slabs to belay in an iced niche below the first line of overlaps. The second pitch pulled out left, 10 metres up a shallow groove between pillars of ice, helping keep the steepness just the right side of vertical and then followed by easier ground to a belay below a rock wall at 40 metres.

David then led off, up and left over waves of ice, and around the corner out of sight. The rope slowed to a stop and after an appropriate pause I deployed the climbers ‘get on with it’ code… “How is it looking up there?” I shouted. With a suitable reply the rope started moving again and the steep 10 metre wall was overcome with aplomb.

Unfortunately the easing of the angle was accompanied by a reduction in ice quality and it wasn’t until the ropes were almost taut that a suitable section for a belay was unearthed from the rotten ice.

David Barlow on Revolvermannen WI4+ (page 160) Paul Seabrook

Back at the car, 20 minutes later it was 8pm and +5 centigrade – great climbing on a great route, but perhaps not the best of conditions!

Valle Rysstad Araksfjord Bygland

Sandnes

Heddersvikfossen

Tunnel of Love

Stigeheii

Skorsfjell

Prestefjellet

Åseral

Reiarsfossen

We had originally planned to descend the route on V-threads, but the rising temperatures and deterioration in ice quality suggested finding an alternative – the impending dusk suggested that that alternative needed to be found quickly! Across to our right we thought we’d spotted enough tree cover to afford a series of abseils back to ground, but after the first two rope lengths it was dark and there were no more trees in sight. We were, therefore, forced to set up linked V-threads in the ice to get back to the level of the first belay and then back to terra firma and our head torches.

Hwy 45

Frøysnes

Following the pitch I’d noticed that the ice screws were pretty loose, with their ice cores dripping out – a sure sign that the temperatures were too high for safe ice climbing – but we were rather committed so leaving the belay I led up into a steep, left-leaning corner system which soon turned rather Scottish, with thin crusty ice over rock, and vegetation frozen in the cracks. Close on 50 metres a small tree offered some security for a belay.

David then headed up the continuation groove, trending back right over iced up slabs until the crusty snow built up, and the fringe of trees signalled the end of the route.

Bykle Veiane

Kleivstøylhei

Araksfjorden - Kleivstøylhei

163

Index - Routes by Name

192

Index - Routes by Name A Few Good Men WI6+ A Weak End WI2 Absolutely Gorgeous WI4 Agent Orange WI4 Army Dreamers WI5 Auld Lang Syne WI3 Balmoral WI5 Bandido WI4+ Beyond the Fringe WI4+ The Blessing WI3+ Bollinger WI5 Boyzone WI3 Brian's Route WI2+ Bush Time WI4

By Heck WI3

Call of the Wild WI4 Captain Pugwash WI6 Central Gully Grade 1 Central Line WI4 Central Pillar WI4 Central Wall WI5 Centurion WI4

Closing Deal WI2 Code Red WI6+

Coyote Falls WI4+ Cristal WI5+ Crowning Glory WI4+ Crusader WI2 Curtain Wall WI6 Dagen for Dagen WI3+ Damocles Groove WI3+ Dane Gelt WI5 Deerstalker WI4 Domani WI3 Double Act WI4 Draumenutenfossen WI5

125 Duck and Dive WI3 60 Easy Pickings WI2 101 Easy Street WI3 140 Electric Mountain WI2+ 150 Electric Warrior WI2+

83 Fandango WI3 109 Farcical Aquatic Ceremony WI5 160 Follow the Instructions WI3 139 Force Protection WI4 149 Frozen Rainbow WI2 48 Funky Cold Medina WI5 62 Fuzzy Jenjen WI4 185 Gateway to Your Soul WI4 153 Gladys Althorpe WI3+ 101 Going Underground WI5 109 Gone Tomorrow WI6 118 The Great Corner 182 The Great Gully WI4 173 Half Measure WI2 107 Heddersvikfossen WI3 50 The Heisfossen WI2

187 Hells Bells WI2+

171 Here Today WI5 125 Hjemlengsel WI3 54 Holistic Plumber WI4 48 Hope Left WI5 109 Hope Right WI4 99 Hovden Falls WI3 50 The Howling WI5 181 Hydro Flossin' WI3 66 Ieri WI4 141 Insider Dealing WI3 60 Janus Falls WI2 137 King Harry Monk WI3 177 Kraken Wake WI3+ 85 Kvennbecken WI2+ / WI3

Brian Davison enjoying Ljosland Falls WI4 (page 185) on Langafjellet, Ă…seral region.

175 191 176 102 49 177 151 65 85 99 175 53 153 100 116 136 168 117 101 155 144 190 136 176 153 184 184 47 171 82 137 171 97 109 159 91

193

Index - Routes by Name Kvitflogetfossen WI3 The Leaning Tower of Pizza WI4 Left Gully WI1/2 Left Pillar WI3 Left Side WI6 Little Road to Jerez WI3 Ljosland Falls WI3+ Local Heroes WI2+ The Maccaroone WI4 Mary Poppins WI5 Midas Touch WI3 Midwich Cuckoos WI3+ Mile End WI3 Moisten'd Bint WI3 Monarch of the Glen WI5 Mosquito Wall WI3+ My Heart is Yours WI3+ Norwegian Blue WI4+ Oggi WI4 Operator Error WI3 Original Route WI4 Original Route WI3+ Pythagoras Theorem WI5 Reiarsfossen WI3+ Reindeer Worrier WI3

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172 Revolvermannen WI4+ 136 Ride Like the Wind WI3+ 53 Ride the Punani WI3+ 107 Right Choice WI3 50 Right Pillar WI3 135 Right Pillar Grade 1 185 Right Wall WI4 191 Rogue Trader WI3 153 Røysland Wall WI3 78 Rules of Engagement WI5 99 Rysefossen Gully WI4 159 Rysefossen WI5 173 Screw Loose WI5 151 Shakedown Theorem WI6 109 Shooting Star WI4+ 59 Shortbread WI3 182 Shorten WI3 84 Side Deal WI3 136 Silberwand Falls WI2+ 64 Silver Bullet WI4+ 74 Sir Christian Boddington WI4 183 Skulkers Groove WI4 112 Slab Route WI3 156 Slanting Gully WI3 65 Slip Sliding Away WI3

160 99 108 183 107 182 50 171 68 83 173 173 63 112 186 176 59 171 134 141 101 167 50 118 98

Index - Routes by Name Slot Machine WI4 134 Slush Puppy WI5 158 Smooth and Creamy WI4+ 101 Smooth Flow WI4 101 Snivelling Reesicle WI3 64 Snow Queen WI5 78 Soft Option WI4 117 Sonner av Norge WI5 93 Spraukle WI3 156 Subterranean Llama Farmer WI3 102 Sweet WI2+ 59 Swift Half WI3 101 Swimming Upstream WI4 153 Take That Safety Boy WI3+ 53 Temporary Measure WI3 98 "You don't have to be strong to climb steep The Blessing WI3+ 149 ice, but it certainly helps!" Setesdal pioneer The Great Corner 168 Susie Sammut, in another of her climbing The Great Gully WI4 117 playgrounds...

The Heisfossen WI2 144 The Howling WI5

171 Waterfall Direct WI3+ 92 The Leaning Tower of Pizza WI4 136 Waxing the Dolphin WI3 153 The Maccaroone WI4 153 White Wolf WI4+ 54 Three Step Corner WI3+ 98 Yksenskarfossen WI2+ 181 Tsunami WI5

117 You've been Tango'ed WI4 140 Turning Japanese WI4 60 Twisting the Turban WI5 153 Valentine's Day Massacre WI4+ 74 Wall Street Shuffle WI3 171

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