Climb Tafraout | Tafraout Granite

GRANITE 2ND EDITION | By Steve Broadbent

CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas

TAFRAOUT GRANITE

2nd Edition, September 2018

by Steve Broadbent Published in the EU by the Oxford Alpine Club www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk ISBN for this volume 978-0-9935486-5-9 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ©2018 Oxford Alpine Club All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2018 Cartography by GeoGraphics

ALSO AVAILABLE IN THE VERTICAL LIFE APP...

All of the crags in this guidebook are available in the Vertical Life climbing app.

PLEASE READ THIS! Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and careful judgement. This guidebook is a selection of routes described in the Tafraout-area ‘Livre d’Escalade’ kept in the Hotel Les Amandiers – many of these remain unchecked and descriptions are those provided by the first ascensionists. Information in this book may therefore be inaccurate, and users should not treat it as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.

Front Cover Photograph: The author on Granite Nation (Font 6a) at Tamayurt Rocks (page 179), photographed by Ron Buckley.

Contents | INTRODUCTION

Town plan page 19

3

Contents Contents Introduction About This Guidebook Other Guidebooks Maps When To Visit Getting To Tafraout Money Provisions Climbing Gear Health, Safety & Travel Advice People & Culture Religion Standards For Travellers Buying Souvenirs Carpets Maison Troc Accommodation Food & Drink

3 4 5 5 5 6 7 10 10 10 12 13 13 13 14 14 15 16 18

Vegetation Wildlife The Rock Gear Ethics Bolting Access & The Environment New Routes Other Things To Do Other Places To Climb How To Use This Guidebook Grades The Climbing Crag Selector Recommended Sport Crags Recommended Trad Crags Crack Day Itineraries History Index

20 20 23 23 23 23 24 24 25 25 27 29 31 32 33 34 35 181 183

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad

Acknowledgements The opportunity to live in Tafraout and attempt to document 20 years of Tafraout's granite climbing was one of the greatest privileges I could ever have wished for, and what started out as an unplanned day of granite crack climbing soon turned into a full-time endeavour that has relied on dozens of people to come to fruition.

In the first instance, I must thank Johnny Dawes and Julie Hiam for their inspiration, when on a scorching Spring day back in 2012 they lured me into Awmrkt for the first time. The whirlwind of granite crack climbing that followed is one that I shall never forget, and was the starting point for this guidebook.

My greatest debt of gratitude, of course, is to my wife, climbing partner and proof-reader Katja Broadbent who has accompanied me on many of the climbs described in this book. Looking back, it's surprising how much of that climbing time was spent doing anything but climbing, whether it was dangling around with stuck cams, bailing off routes when the kids invariably managed to hurt themselves back at home, or racing around Tafraout to replace broken drill bits. Of course, she has also supported me through hours of office work when I would have been more usefully employed doing something else...

Obtaining information about climbs is never an easy task, but I must say that everyone involved in the Tafraout granite scene has been so easy to work with, and for that I thank all of them. Palan MartĂ­n was the first to attempt to collate granite climbing information, and without his work Tafraout's granite climbing would probably never have taken off. Ron Kenyon and Shaw Brown have been supportive throughout, and I should also thank Shaw and Judith Neaves for rescuing me from a stuck-rope-solo-re-bolting mess on the Black Wall! Joakim Olofsson, John Williams and BjĂśrn Holgren have

provided loads of useful information and put in some new bolts in the area, and Oliver Guenay has once again helped with topos. Thanks also to Marco Marrosu, Tim Dufour and Andy Fewtrell for the route information they provided.

Pete Wilson and Ron Kenyon have, yet again, generously provided photographs, as have Marco Marrosu and Anne Linda van Kappel, for which I am always grateful.

As with the previous Tafraout guidebooks, I naturally owe huge thanks to the Climb Tafraout 'team' for all their help. Lina Arthur has once again applied herself with her usual diligence as proof-reader, whilst also providing a sounding board for ideas throughout the production of this guide. She and husband Dave Arthur have also been key climbing partners during the arduous (no, really!) research for the guide. Thanks also to everyone else who has got out onto the granite with me for route checking, including Will Benfold, Ron Buckley, Jim Nuttall, Matt Mellor, Rachel Mellor, Caroline Culwick, Mark Stevenson, Anna Lewy, Pete Cawley, Marion Wyllie and Tim Culwick. There are probably more, and in which case I apologise for any omissions.

Finally, I need to thank our very good friends in Tafraout, Lahcen and Mohammed, without whom we would almost certainly have been deported and this guide would not exist. Their assistance in every aspect of our lives in Tafraout was far more than we could ever have expected, and their friendship has been one of the most valuable and rewarding parts of 12 years' climbing in Morocco.

Steve Broadbent, June 2018

Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

4

INTRODUCTION

Introduction Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

Nestled on the south side of Morocco’s AntiAtlas mountains, the oasis town of Tafraout is one of the hidden gems of the climbing world, and for the adventurous traveller it promises a unique and memorable experience, far removed from the popular holiday haunts of the Mediterranean.

The traditional climbing on the quartzite cliffs of nearby Jebel el Kest and Jebel Taskra has rocketed into public awareness in recent years, with everincreasing numbers of visitors coming to enjoy the remote, adventurous climbing that the high mountain crags here have to offer. Few of them, however, look to the south, where an incredible landscape of granite tors creates one of Morocco’s natural treasures; a place of rugged and intense beauty, painted orange and pink by the burning glow of the Mahgreb sunshine.

This is the Tafraout back-country, and for climbers looking for something a little bit different it's a paradise of granite slab and crack climbing, as well as brilliant, bizarre esoterica.

Known to the locals as Awmrkt, the relatively small area described by this guidebook lies in a triangle

Town plan page 19

to the south of Tafraout, bounded roughly by the R104 (Aday Road) to the west, the R107 (Aguerd Oudad Road) to the east, and the unsurfaced Dou Toulzoukht track to the south. Between these confines, the semi-desert landscape is punctuated by striking outcrops of coarse-grained orange granite; a fascinating maze of wadis (dry river beds), valleys, and crags awaiting exploration.

For many years, the rock here has had a reputation for being somewhat crumbly. But whilst it is true that the slow-cooled crystalline granite does suffer from relentless thermal exfoliation and a lack of weathering by water, the routes included in this guidebook are on sound rock that is a joy to climb, requiring the kind of full-body, three-dimensional manoeuvres that you’re unlikely to call upon on many other rock types. This, of course, alongside the brilliant friction climbing and full-on jamming for which granite is well known.

Tafraout, though, is more than just another wintersun climbing destination: it is a fascinating cultural journey, brimming with character and overflowing with adventure. The local Berber people are as friendly a race as you could ever hope to meet, and taking the time to savour the hospitality of this amazing town is one of the true pleasures of a Tafraout climbing trip. Thankfully, with so much rock right on the doorstep, doing so is wonderfully easy.

Welcome to a climbing holiday like few others.

With a mix of bolts and traditional protection, Tafraout's granite tors provide a varied and interesting climbing playground. The author on the key traverse of High Sierra (VS 5a) (page 137).

Photo: Dave Arthur

History Index

Other guides & maps | INTRODUCTION

Town plan page 19

ABOUT THIS GUIDEBOOK This edition is the first printed guidebook to the granite climbing around Tafraout and aims to provide as much detail as possible about trad, sport, and bouldering opportunities in the region.

Information about the climbing here has been notoriously difficult to come by in the past, and as a result it has been impossible to produce a completely definitive guidebook. This latest edition is based largely on the 2012 miniguide as well as the Tafraout area new-route book and extensive ‘in the field’ research during the winter of 2017-18.

In some cases, the existence of routes has only been identified by the discovery of pitons or bolts on the crags, and it has not always been possible to ascertain the history of such climbs. Interim names have been given to these routes in order to avoid large numbers of ‘unnamed’ climbs, which make identification frustrating and logging of routes impossible. If you have any information to add, or can fill in any of the gaps then please do contact us at www.climb-tafraout.com Other Guidebooks Two other Climb-Tafraout guidebooks accompany this edition, and are available for sale on our website at www.climb-tafraout.com Moroccan Anti-Atlas A landmark guidebook to approximately 1500 traditionally protected rock climbs on the quartzite of Jebel el Kest, including everything from singlepitch cragging to 800m mountain adventures across both the north and south sides of the range.

100 Classic Climbs Focusing on multi-pitch routes and long days out, this guidebook describes 100 of the best routes in the range in superb detail, and is ideal for those wishing to experience the very best trad on offer in the Anti-Atlas.

ONLINE RESOURCES Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you visit our website for latest updates, free stuff, and discounts: • Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and accommodation advice.

• Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels.

• Packing lists, maps, and other useful resources for your trip.

• Free downloads, including topos and maps.

• Guidebook updates and new-route information. www.climb-tafraout.com

5

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Maps Until recently the Anti-Atlas region was poorly mapped and finding your way around was notoriously difficult. Today, however, the area is covered by three series of GeoGraphics maps, all of which will be of interest to the climber: Tourist Explorer Map 1 This double-sided map features a 1:750,000 road map of southern Morocco, as well as a 1:150,000 ‘piste map’ of the Anti-Atlas from Ait Baha to Tafraout, perfect for exploring the area by car or bike.

Outdoor Activity Maps 1-5 The whole area is covered at 1:500,00 scale by this series of handy A2 MiniMaps, great for finding your way to the crag in the car and on foot. Also useful for exploring the range on rest days and bad weather days.

Adventure Map 2 For hikers and trekkers wishing to explore the Jebel el Kest escarpment on foot, this 1:25000, A1 MiniMap represents the most detailed mapping of the Anti-Atlas region currently available.

Sheet maps can be purchased in our online store at www.climb-tafraout.com

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

6

INTRODUCTION | When to visit

When to visit Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Throughout the winter months Tafraout has an almost perfect climate for climbing. The long winter season, which runs from late September right through to the end of April, is one of the biggest attractions for climbers looking to escape the wet European weather.

Although Tafraout can see rain at any time during the winter, it is rare and unlikely to spoil a climbing trip. Likewise, an unusually cool airmass can sink down from Europe, bringing surprisingly chilly temperatures to the higher mountain crags. Climbers visiting the area between November and March are, therefore, advised to bring lightweight waterproofs, whilst thermal shirts or fleeces will almost certainly be required throughout the season. Of course, during the heat of the day, temperatures in the high twenties will necessitate cool, loose clothing when climbing.

Typical conditions are as follows: September - October As the summer heat begins to subside in late September, conditions are usually hot and dry.

Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing crags come into their own, whilst the southfacing crags can be unbearably hot during the heat of the day. Daytime temperatures vary between 20 and 30 degrees.

Town plan page 19

November - December Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t let that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged enough to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures can get quite chilly, particularly in the shade or during the evenings, and thermal clothing will be required.

January - February The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the autumn was wet then January and February are usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls in the early spring and snowfall on the summits is not unusual – be sure to bring warm clothing.

March - April Spring usually gives excellent climbing conditions, with hot daytime temperatures (between 15 and 25 degrees) and long periods of sunshine. Exceptionally, winter rain can persist right through to the end of March, though this is unlikely. The land is usually green, with pink almond blossom and wild flowers creating a particularly spectacular landscape.

At the end of a long, hot day in Tafraout as the October sun starts to dip behind the distant hills.

Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION

Town plan page 19

services run from both cities. The best service, routing from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait Melloul, Tiznit, Idaousmlal and Ait Wafka is operated Essaouira

by CTM, and tickets can be booked at www.ctm.ma.

Chichaoua Seats on the outbound journey often fill up several  NinS advance and so prior booking is advised. days AI TFor Asni the return journey it is usually possibly to book N OU Imi-N-Tanoute seats at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before S M A L travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am, T H A taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech.

HIG From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout by Taliouine Grand Taxi. The airport is located out of town, so travellers wishing to benefit from down-town rental AGADIR Taroudant rates or take public transport to Tafraout will need to go by taxi into the city (about 150 dirhams). The  UNTAINS O M onward journey from Agadir bus station is usually Biougra S Igherm A made via Tiznit, for which it is advisable to negotiate a L Ait Baha T price before travel (30 dirhams is normal). The Grand -A Taxis will wait until they are full before departing, and Tiznit this can take up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often TAFRAOUT be dropped off at the south-eastern side of the town walls, from where you will need to walk round the outside of the walls to Ave du 20 Aout, which runs out Getting to Tafraout of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on the south-western The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the end of Ave. du 20 or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in Aout, where it is easy to get a seat to Tafraout for the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily reached about 30 dirhams. by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Marrakech (a 5½ hour drive).

Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road

A

N

T

I

A7

MARRAKECH

7

Flights A number of UK airlines operate services to Agadir Al Massira, with return flights typically costing between £180 and £300 per person. Ryanair, British Airways, easyJet, Thomas Cook and Thomson services operate from a variety of UK airports, though flights are limited and can be expensive at short notice.

Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper alternative, and most major airlines run daily flights from a wide variety of European airports. Return flights from the UK typically cost between £130 and £250.

Public Transport Renting a car is the easiest way to reach Tafraout and get around once you’re there, but as most of the granite is fairly close to town, a trip by public transport is certainly feasible.

Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city bus services and taxis (of the grand and petit varieties), which make a trip by public transport perfectly feasible, if a little adventurous.

Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus

Although not the cheapest option, private transfers are available through Tafraout-based Maison Troc, who offer airport pick-ups, as well as lifts to and from crags. This service can also be useful for hikers wishing to leave their car at one end of a walk.

Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909 to arrange.

Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

Hiring a Car Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to hire a car for the duration of their stay, and it is advisable to book online before your trip. All major rental agencies have desks at both Agadir and Marrakech airports, and good deals have been found through brokers such as Holiday Autos and Rhino Car Hire (discount available at www.climb-tafraout.com.

Although many of Tafraout’s crags are accessed via unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), 4WD should not be necessary provided care is taken. A standard car typically costs between £150 and £200 per week at Agadir or Marrakech airports. The quality of cars has been found to be generally poor, with bald tyres, unserviceable equipment and missing jacks frequently reported.

History Index

INTRODUCTION | Getting to Tafraout

Town plan page 19 AGADIR

Background

Inezgane

How toAGADIR Use

N8

Big, walled compound (palace)

N10

P1714

Lkolea

Ait Melloul

P1714

P1714 to airport and Tafraout

Turn right at roundabout onto P1009

05

R1

N1

Biougra – see inset detail

BIOUGRA

Aday Road

Big quarries

R10

5

airport and Agadir

Dou Bus station & Toulzoukht

P1009

Awmrkt P1009 towards

Hilala

AIT BAHA Back street is easiest way through town on return to airport

taxi rank

Aousift

T

El Halat

Steep hill

Aguerd Oudad

I

E RD

Ait Alla

Imi Mqourn

Tazka Road

AG A D

L



P1009

Ait Melloul

Suggested Climbs

N10

Care! Follow signs to airport

Turn right out of airport onto P1714

Overview Map Inezgane Crag Selector

N8 towards A7 and Marrakech

Atacadao supermarket & Decathlon

A7

A7 from Marrakech

Intro

N8

AI

8

Winding mountain road with mileposts showing Tafraout distances

Big reservoir at Tlata Uoanass

Bouldering

a el T Je b

sk ra

R10

5

BIOUGRA

Kasbah Tizourgane Madao

Idaougnidif R105 towards Ait Baha and Tafraout

L

AI T E

BI O U G R A D

Turn left at Ameln roundabout

TAFRAOUT

Index

Ad

ra r

04

R1

R10

Tahala S

Motorway | Junction | Services National Route Regional Route | Town Provincial Route / Minor Road

Ait Abdellah

Ameln

Tanalt

7

History

Sidi M’Zal

l el Kest Jebe

R10 6

R105 – slower way to Agadir

0km

10km

20km

30km

40km

M

Roundabout with police check-point

qo

rn

Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION

Town plan page 19

Best to avoid driving into city centre

N8

Turn left onto N8 westbound

Marrakech Menara

MARRAKECH



Speed bumps Exit airport, turn right onto R212 2

R21

Turn right at petrol station

Escaping From Marrakech Although Agadir provides the simplest access to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas, many people will choose to travel via Marrakech as part of a wider tour of Morocco, or perhaps to take in the excellent sport-climbing of the Todra Gorge.

Marrakech itself is a fascinating city and well worth a visit in its own right. Countless hotels are available to suit all budgets, and the city boasts many excellent restaurants that reflect its modern, cosmopolitan image, as well as more traditional tastes. The central square, Place Jma el Fna, comes alive every evening with a fascinating variety of street artists, snake charmers, and vendors serving a baffling array of dishes, the likes of which you’re unlikely to find anywhere outside of Africa. Surrounding the square is one of the best examples of a Moroccan souq (market) that you’ll ever see, and getting lost amongst its maze of narrow streets is a brilliant way of working up an appetite for a meal of sheep brain or eyeballs back in the square – assuming you can find your way back, that is.

For car drivers, however, the centre of Marrakech is best avoided. Frequent buses run from the airport terminal to the centre of town, so it’s usually easier to leave your rental car at the airport and explore the city on foot.

At some point, of course, you’re going to want to drive from Marrakech to Tafraout (for some, this happens sooner rather than later). Exit the airport and turn right at the roundabout onto the R212.

Continue for approximately 4.2km to a right turn

at the edge of the built up area. There is a useful petrol station here for filling up on your return to the airport. Continue north for 5.8km, then turn left on the N8 – this junction is usefully signposted to the airport on your return journey. The N8 can either be followed through Oudaya to the motorway, or take the signposted route via the P2006.

The journey along the A7 motorway leads to the Agadir/Inezgane/Ait Melloul ring road, takes about 2 hours, and costs approximately 80Dh in tolls.

The Drive from Agadir Agadir Al Massira airport is located conveniently to the east of the city, so there’s no need to drive into Agadir itself. From the airport, turn right and follow the P1714 for 5km to the first major roundabout.

Turn right here onto the P1009 and continue to Biougra.

This large market town can be very busy during rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their depth westerners all share the road into town.

At night it is worth paying particular attention to cyclists, who rarely have lights and frequently cycle on the wrong side of the road.

The road comes to an end at a major T-junction.

Turn left here, following the R105 out of town and on towards Ait Baha. Note that on the return journey it is not possible to turn right from the R105 back onto the P1009, so a better way is to take the back-street shortcut shown on the inset map.

Continuing along the R105 a large quarry is passed on the left, just before the road begins its climb into the hills. Ait Baha is reached in approximately 45 minutes. Keep going straight on, passing the edge of town (there is a police station on the left).

Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (i.e. follow the main road) and continue until the road snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there is a fork – both roads lead to the same place, but since road widening work in 2017 it is now easier just to stay on the main road (i.e. go straight on).

The two roads come back together again just before the famous Kasbah Tizourgane. Here the north side of Jebel el Kest provides a magnificent backdrop to one of the best examples of a Moroccan Kasbah, and for climbers the sense of excitement grows, as vast quartzite crags begin to drift in and out of view to the southwest.

Keep on the main road, following it past Madao (Madaw), Sidi M’Zal, Tizi N’Tarakatine, and then to a

9

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

10

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

INTRODUCTION | Money & provisions

roundabout on a high col (police checkpoint here).

Turn right, climbing up towards the crest of the Tarakatine Pass, from where the full extent of the Ameln Valley and the south face of Jebel el Kest come magnificently into view.

Descending into the Ameln Valley, the road eventually reaches the village of Ameln, and a large new roundabout. Turn left here, climbing a short hill to reach Tafraout in a couple of kilometres.

MONEY The local currency is the Moroccan dirham (DH or MAD), and in 2018 the exchange rate was approximately 12DH = £1, or 10DH = 1 euro. The dirham is a controlled currency, but can be obtained in the UK before your journey from Bureaux de Change beyond passport control. A much better exchange rate, however, will be available from the bank in Tafraout, so it’s only worth changing as much as you will need for the journey, or for your hire-car and petrol if it’s not pre-paid. Note that a maximum of 1000DH can be exported from the country, and officials in Marrakech airport have been seen searching the wallets of passengers going through security.

Taking plenty of cash with you from the UK will prevent any time-consuming difficulties with ATMs and banks. Outside the big cities it is safest to assume you will require dirhams to obtain petrol, food, and accommodation. A tank of petrol will cost between 300DH and 600DH (depending on where you get the fuel). In Tafraout there are three cash machines which have proved generally reliable.

Most hotels will require payment in cash, and even the VISA machine in the salubrious Hotel Les Amandiers has proved unreliable. Larger hotels will accept payment in euro or sterling, but in general it’s worth making sure that you have the means to obtain sufficient dirham prior to the day of your departure.

Finally, it is worth noting that smaller shops and businesses will be unable to accept large notes (e.g. 200DH) for small transactions, as they generally don’t have enough change. Larger notes are always accepted in petrol stations or the supermarket, and residents of Les Amandiers can exchange them at the hotel reception.

Town plan page 19

PROVISIONS Tafraout provides all of the basic provisions that will be needed for a climbing trip. The excellent Berber round-bread (pain ronde) is a staple diet and is available from most of the small shops in town, along with bottled water, fizzy drinks, cheese, crisps, pastries, and other snacks.

Sweets and chocolate bars (including Mars and Snickers) are available in some of the shops, and on hot days a small supermarket opposite the school even provides a welcome source of ice-cream. A large variety of fruit and vegetables can be bought from market stalls throughout the town, and for those looking to cater for themselves, fresh meat is available from the town’s indoor meat market.

Alcohol is not available from shops in town – for this and other more unusual provisions it will be necessary to visit the supermarket in Agadir. The nearest outlet is the Atacadao store near the N8 (see inset Agadir map on page 8).

Climbing Gear There are no sources of climbing gear in Tafraout, so visitors are advised to ensure that they bring enough for their trip. In particular, it’s worth packing a couple of extra chalk balls, some abseil tat and a few spare slings and karabiners.

There is a Decathlon store in Agadir which sells a very limited range of gear including rock shoes, harnesses, and clothing. It is located close to the Atacadao supermarket, shown on the inset map on page 8.

Town plan page 19

Climbing gear | INTRODUCTION

11

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Mark Stevenson on the fine long slab of Bolero (F5c) on the shady north face of Eflodne (page 158).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

16

INTRODUCTION | Accommodation

Accommodation Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Town plan page 19

HOTEL LES AMANDIERS   BAR

There are dozens of places to stay in Tafraout, with accommodation options to suit most budgets.

Hotels Most visitors choose to stay in one of the town's hotels, all of which are excellent value. Hotel Les Amandiers is the traditional option, though it does lack charm. The best budget options are Hotel Les Amis, or the very basic Hotel Tanger.

Other mid-budget options worth a look are the Hotel Salama, Hotel Saint Antoine, and Hotel Espace Tifawine.

Apartments If you're visiting in a group, then one of the best options is to rent the well-appointed Auberge l'Escalade, which can sleep up to ten people in three rooms. As well as a kitchen for guest use, it is next door to the best restaurant in town!

Camping There are three campsites in town which provides facilities for campervans. Camping with tents is not common in Morocco, and wild camping is not encouraged. During busy times of year, travellers in campervans can also stay in the municipal camping area next to the 3 Palms site for as little as €1 per night.



AIR CON

This famous hotel sits on a hillside overlooking the town and has traditionally been the centre of the trad-climbing community in Tafraout. Its well-stocked bar usually has at least a handful of British climbers established in it, and the evergrowing new-routes book (Livre d’Escalade) is kept closely guarded behind the hotel reception.

The hotel is clean, with safe chlorinated tap water, and a large restaurant serving a mixture of simple Moroccan and International dishes.

The staff are extremely friendly, and speak good French, English and German. Double, twin, and triple rooms are available, and all are en-suite with either a bath or a shower. There is an outdoor swimming pool for hotel guests, where enjoying a cold beer on the terrace, lit by alpenglow on Jebel el Kest, is a thoroughly recommended experience.

Free wi-fi is available for all guests, and the centre of Tafraout is easily reached in five minutes.

Email: hotellesamandierstafraoute@gmail.com Website: http://www.hotel-lesamandiers.com Tel: +212 (0)528 800008 Rooms: 350Dh or 300Dh* (single) | 450Dh or 330Dh* (double) | 500Dh or 430Dh* (triple). (*reduced prices if booked through www.climb-tafraout.com)

Accommodation | INTRODUCTION

Town plan page 19

HOTEL SALAMA 



AIR CON

HOTEL TIFAWINE 

17



AIR CON

Intro Background How to Use

A charming hotel, located right in the centre of Tafraout. It is a popular option amongst climbers, being full of character and furnished throughout in traditional Moroccan style.

Website: http://www.hotelsalama.com Tel: +212 (0)528 800026 Rooms: 180Dh (single) | 260Dh (double) | 320Dh (triple)

This fairly new hotel is set to offer serious competition to the likes of the Salama, offering some of the best value rooms in town. The outdoor swimming pool is only open in summer, but there is free wifi for guests and the restaurant downstairs is one of the best in town.

Rooms: 150Dh (double or twin)

AUBERGE L’ESCALADE 

HOTEL LES AMIS 



AIR CON

Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt

An excellent option if you're in a group, this well-situated apartment has three rooms (double, triple, and family) with shared living space, which can be rented individually or all together. The living room and rooftop terrace are a great place to hang out and make climbing plans, and a fully equipped kitchen is a useful addition. Wifi, washing machine, and hot showers also provided.

Email: Mohamed_tafraout@yahoo.com Tel: +212 (0)691 850401 / +212 (0)660 954269 Rooms: 200Dh (double) | 300Dh (triple) | 500Dh (room for 5)

Probably the best budget hotel in town, Les Amis has comfortable en-suite rooms, hot showers, and an attractive breakfast terrace. The hotel is very climber-friendly – mention that you're a climber and you can get a discount on the room and also on food in the nearby Restaurant La Kasbah. Beer and wine are sometimes available on request for hotel guests.

Email: auberge.lesamis@yahoo.fr Tel: +212 (0)623 826488 Rooms: 150Dh (double or twin) | 200Dh (triple room or rooftop tent) | +50Dh (breakfast)

Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

The bridge in the centre of Tafraout on a rainy day.

22

INTRODUCTION | The rock & ethics

Town plan page 19

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Tafraout granite is a paradise of steep, uncompromising and eccentric wide cracks. Steve Broadbent tackling the roof of Andromeda (E6) on Elephant Rock (page 113).

Photo: Katja Broadbent

Town plan page 19

The Rock The molten rock which made this spectacular landscape cooled slowly underground, creating large abrasive crystals that aren't always well attached – a problem made worse by a lack of weathering by rainwater. Extremes of temperature due to the intense summer sun further worsen the issue and create exfoliating flakes of all sizes.

The result is that much of Tafraout's granite is notoriously crumbly, sometimes to the extent that it can be scraped away by the hands or feet of surprised climbers. This fact has done much to deter people from exploring the potential of the crags here and led to Tafraout granite having something of a an esoteric reputation.

Amongst some undeniably poor rock, however, can be found large areas of well-weathered, marbled granite that is perfect for climbing, and it is hoped that this guidebook will finally open peoples' eyes to the superb routes on offer here.

Gear Granite routes tend to fall into two broad categories: bolt-protected slabs, or steep, wide cracks protected by large camming devices. Of course, there's a full spectrum in between, but a typical granite rack will consist of a full set of camming devices, doubled up in the larger sizes and perhaps supplemented by the occasional Big Bro for the widest crack routes.

Ethics Tafraout's granite crags have not seen the same strict traditional ethics as the nearby quartzite of Jebel el Kest, and since the earliest days of climbing here, bolts and pegs have been placed to protect key sections or provide anchors and lower-offs.

With the obvious difficulties of obtaining bolts in-country, bolting has often been sparse and used only to supplement traditional protection, rather than replace it. Because of this, routes or pitches are often 'manufactured' at a particular grade, and whilst this may not conform to the ethics of many climbing areas, Tafraout granite climbing has seemingly never taken itself too seriously on these matters.

It is, therefore, locally acceptable to place bolts in order to create an enjoyable route that would otherwise have unbalanced or dangerous cruxes.

Likewise, fully bolted sport routes happily co-exist here with trad cracks and mixed pitches.

The rock & ethics | INTRODUCTION

FIXED EQUIPMENT

23

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector

Perhaps due to the difficulties in obtaining hardware in town, there has unfortunately been a history of theft of fixed gear from Tafraout's granite crags.

This practice, as well as being detrimental to others' enjoyment of the region, can have dangerous consequences, and whilst you may be able to climb out without the need for a belay, others may not. Please do not remove hardware, either to use on your own route or for any other purpose.

Similarly, maillons or chains on anchors should not be viewed as 'crag swag' – these have been put here for a reason, and whilst that extra maillon might one day be useful on your harness, please leave it in-situ for others to use.

Bolting Please note that bolting is not permitted on the quartzite crags of the Ameln Valley and Jebel el Kest, and must be restricted to the granite area.

When considering placing bolts, please check that a route has not previously been climbed as a trad route, and do not 'retro-bolt' existing climbs.

Power drills are permitted on Tafraout granite, and inevitably lead to safer bolting. The lack of bolting equipment in town, however, will naturally limit any explosion of bolted routes.

If bolting routes, please do so considerately and be aware that the rock sometimes has significant hollow sections – always check that you are not bolting into an exfoliating flake.

Stainless steel bolts and hangers are the preferable type, although galvanised varieties have been found to last well in Tafraout's predominantly dry environment.

Further information is available online at www.climb-tafraout.com

Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

26

INTRODUCTION | How to use this guidebook

Overview Map Page 30

Intro Background

Find all the crags of

How to Use

TAFRAOUT in the

Overview Map

Vertical-Life App

Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Download now for free

Vertical-Life climbing app

Your worldwide climbing guide

How to use this guidebook | INTRODUCTION

Ti f ra

Overview Map Page 30

27

11 00

n

e

How to use this Guidebook

Intro 1100

Route Descriptions The following symbols are used in the description of routes: Warning! No protection on this route, or on a SOLO large part of the route.

A traditionally protected route, requiring a TRAD full trad rack.

This route has some bolts but requires a full MIXED trad rack as well.

TAFRAOUT Sch. Area Maps This route is bolted, but may feature longer (Tafraoute) Camping 3 Palms BOLTS run-outs. A couple of pieces of trad gear may At the start of each chapter is an area map Hotel Medical Centre reduce the seriousness. showing the location of the crags described within Tifawine that chapter.

A fully bolted sport climb for which trad gear Hotel Les Amis Post Coin de SPORT is not required.

Office Nomad  Hotel Salama A well-protected route. Lots of gear, and a Hotel San GEAR good one to push your grade!

Antoine  Maison Troc QR code and coordinates A bold climb with some long run-outs or of parking spot BOLD protection that is difficult to place.

Hotel Les Recommended Amandiers Camping parking spot A crack climb that requires jamming Granite Rose CRACK techniques.

Amandiers Tor Sch. This route requires wires or small cams for Camping 1100 THIN protection.

Tazga A wide crack for which you will need large P s WIDE gear for protection. res GPS 29.71464, t t Bu -8.97812 nd A slabby route, requiring smearing and o Imyane Alm SLAB friction climbing.

A. ALMOND Tazka BUTTRESS STEEP A steep or overhanging route; tiring or (Tazga) p55 North Tor pumpy climbing.

Flor de All of the climbingTocho in dethis book is located in a Tafraout relatively small area to the south of Tafraout, broken down into six geographic areas as shown on the overview map on page 30. Thumb tabs Cemetery Cemetery can be down the side of each page used for quickly locating the desired chapter.

A seventh chapter describes selected bouldering in the area.

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt

Basalt

Cirque du Soleil

00

e du Soleil

This route has an abseil descent.

ABSEIL

Loose rock. 1132Agadir

LOOSE

Central Tor Tocho de V Tazka n Crag Information Box 1230 e dd Hi

Mossy, lichenous, or dirty rock.

MOSSY

1207

Fla ke Q

Each crag description starts with an information High Torapproach box giving overview information and 1230 details. The following symbols are used: Tazka Tor

Prickly vegetation on the climb. ua ke

all ey

Flake Tor PRICKLY

Bouldering

Imyane Tor

1100

11

Ci rqu

Aousift

Ibrahim

1147

Crag described within this chapter

Sector

Tocho el Regalito

Cantilever Tor

Hidden Valley Tor

1100

River

1100

1230

Luna



Ancient Berber House

Dou Toulzoukht

Route unchecked, or 1159 details not available.

1230

This crag receives lots of sunshine.

Shade is available at this crag.

00

Shade

ll Wa ck Bla 11

This crag is suitable for families (see page 31 for more information about climbing The with Fortress kids).

High Sierra

Families

1116

It is easy to hitch-hike to this1160 crag.

Pa lm

Roadside

Yellow Tor

A roadside crag with a short approach.

1214 ll Va

Elephant Rock 1150

The following symbols are used on crag topos: 1108 This buttress or sector is usually in the shade, Shade or shade is available throughout the day.

Heyt Mharres This buttress or sector gets lots of sunshine 1157 throughout the day.

This buttress or sector has sunshine in the AM morning.Napoleon’s Hat This buttress Agadir  or sector has sunshine in the PM afternoon.1115 Aguerd Oudad

ey

Gr

ove

Hitch

Valley

Palm Grove Crag

y lle Va Black WallTopos Lov ers ’ Cr ag

120

0

UNCHECKED

rra

Village Tor

History Index

28

Intro Background

INTRODUCTION | How to use this guidebook

Overview Map Page 30

World-class adventure trad on the doorstep of Europe

How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History

New routes | Hotel discounts | Maps | Guidebooks

Index

Join us online at:

www.climb-tafraout.com

Overview Map Page 30

How to use this guidebook | INTRODUCTION

ONLINE MAPS AND GPS

Intro

It should be possible to locate all of the climbing in this book without the use of GPS or online maps, although online mapping is available for those who wish to use it.

Google Maps is the most commonly used application, and whilst it will not currently give step-bystep driving directions in Morocco, it can be very useful for locating crags. Latitude and longitude coordinates can be entered directly into Google in the given format. For example, to find the parking for Almond Buttress (see previous page), simply enter 29.71464,-8.97812 into Google Maps.

Alternatively, scan the QR code from the area map to get a direct link to the Google Maps location.

Step-by-step driving directions are not currently available in Google, but are provided in applications such as Maps.Me, using Open Street Map data. Although not as reliable as Google, this application is useful for navigation when driving further afield in Morocco.

A third useful application is Locus Map, which provides GPS tracking and a variety of map overlays which can be useful when out and about on foot in the Anti-Atlas.

Grades The grading of routes is always a contentious task, and in the case of Tafraout granite, difficulties are compounded by the fact that routes have historically been graded using a variety of different grading systems.

In this guidebook, historic grades have been converted into one of two systems, depending on the predominant form of protection on the crag or route. Note that in some cases routes that get a trad grade may still rely on bolted protection and vice-versa, and the protection symbol rather than the grade should be used to judge whether trad gear is required.

Trad Climbs These are graded using UK trad grades. This is a two-part grading system, involving both an adjectival grade and a tech grade.

The adjectival grade describes the overall difficulty of a route, taking into account how well protected it is and how sustained it is.

The tech grade describes how technically difficult the hardest move is on a route.

For example, a route on which the hardest move is UK tech 5c would be given E4 5c if it was very bold or very sustained, or E1 5c if it was very safe and had only one hard move.

Sport Climbs Bolt-protected sport climbs are graded using the French system, which describes the overall difficulty, taking into account how technically hard the moves are as well as how sustained they are. In the above example, the E4 5c might be F6c, where the E1 5c might by F6b

29

Adjectival

UK

Difficult Very Difficult Mild Severe

Severe Hard Severe

4b Mild Very Severe

Very Severe

E1

Hard Very Severe

E2 E4

E3 E5

4c

5a

5c

Suggested Climbs

5.2

Tazka Road

5.3

Aguerd Oudad

5.5

5.6

F4

5.8

F5a F5b F5c

5.10a 5.10b

F6a

5.10c

F6b

6b

11

Dou Toulzoukht

13

16 17 18

20 21

F6c 22

F7a

23 24

5.12b 5.12c

Bouldering

15

5.11c 5.12a

Aousift

19

5.10d

5.11d

Awmrkt

14

5.7

5.11a

10

12

F4+

5.11b

6c

Crag Selector

Aday Road

6a

E6

Overview Map

5.1

5.9

5b

How to Use

USA French Aus

5.4

4a

Background

F7b

History Index

30

INTRODUCTION | Overview map

Overview Map Page 30

ANTI-ATLAS Aday ANCHOR FUND Peak

Intro Background

TAFRAOUT (Tafraoute)

Please help us to maintain fixed 1353 equipment by donating online

How to Use

www.climb-tafraout.com/anti-atlas-anchor-fund

Overview Map Crag Selector

Imyane

ge

RO AD

AG U

ER

KA

39

D

ET AZ

ge pa AD AY

OU

DA D

TH

RO AD

Aday

pa

Ighir n’Targant

Aday Road

pa

E

ge

TH

Tazka Road

Tazka (Tazga)

51

Suggested Climbs

Aguerd Oudad

Aguerd Oudad

04

R1

Awmrkt

79

7

Dou Toulzoukht

R10

Afella Ouday

Bouldering

rk tT ra c

k

Aousift

RK

T

Aw m

AWM

pa

ge

1

DO

U

History

12

TO U

LZ OU

Do

KH

Dou Toulzoukht

T

uT ou

pa

ge

uk

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY

AO US

IF

T

pa

ge

15

1

Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061 Tafraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 862993 British Consulate +212 (0)528 841219 British Embassy +212 (0)537 633333

ht Tra c

k

14

1

Index

Aousift

lzo



Painted Rocks

Climbing overview | INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 30

The Climbing The granite tors surrounding Tafraout and Aguerd Oudad provide a wonderful variety of climbing, from steep off-width cracks to bold slab climbs, with everything from the very easiest routes to desperate test-pieces. Whether you're looking for a multi-pitch day out, some relaxed cragging on a rest day from the quartzite mountains, or gentle bouldering and a family picnic, you can find it in the magical landscape of Tafraout's granite backcountry.

Unlike on the quartzite crags of nearby Jebel el Kest, where there is a strict traditional climbing ethic, Tafraout's granite outcrops feature a mix of bolted and traditionally protected routes, providing an interesting variety of climbing that is well suited to a relaxed climbing holiday.

The climbing can be broadly considered in six main areas, as shown on the orientation map opposite. A separate area map for each of these areas is shown at the start of the relevant chapter, which can be located using the handy ‘thumb tabs’ down the side of the page.

Sport Climbing Although Tafraout will never compete with Mediterranean limestone destinations as a sport climbing venue, the bolted crags here provide some excellent climbing, mostly on tiny crimps and friction slabs.

Newly equipped crags are generally well bolted, though on some of the older routes it's worth remembering that this is not Kalymnos, and a

certain ability to improvise may be called upon if mixed equipment is encountered.

Both single- and multi-pitch sport routes have been equipped in the area, and recommendations are shown on page 34.

Trad Climbing For lovers of energetic wide cracks, Tafraout's granite back country is a fascinating playground, littered with enticing routes. Because many of these routes are isolated, with some crags having only one or two routes on them, it is common to visit several crags in one day – a number of suggested 'Crack Day' itineraries are shown on page 36 to provide some inspiration to first-time visitors.

The Aday Road

page 39

The Tazka Road

page 51

Aguerd Oudad

page 79

Awmrkt

page 121

Dou Toulzoukht

page 141

Aousift

page 151

Bouldering

page 165

31

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

CLIMBING WITH FAMILIES

Kids of all ages can enjoy Tafraout's granite climbing, Central Slab (Difficult) (Page 147).

It surprises many people to learn that a remote town in North Africa is suitable destination for a family climbing holiday, but with an excellent selection of family-friendly crags, endless mazes of boulders to explore, and the fascinating and welcoming Berber culture, Tafraout is the perfect place to take the little ones climbing.

For very young kids, the bouldering circuits are always popular and there's plenty of top-roping to enjoy – Kindergarten Crags (page 144), Rainbow Tor (page 131) and the Aguerd Slabs (page 133) are good places to start.

Slightly older kids might enjoy joining the grown-ups on some of the easy multi-pitch routes such as those on Eflodne (page 158), High Sierra (page 134), or the very popular Freeway at Tazka (page 65).

More information and ideas can be found on our website at www.climb-tafraout.com

History Index

Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Routes E4 + or F7+

Routes E1 – E3 or F6

Routes MVS – HVS or F5

Routes S – HS or F4

Roadside

Crag Selector

Routes D – VD or F3

Access by hitching

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 2 1 1 0 1 2

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:02 0 0 0 3 4 1 0 0

C. GRAN DIEDRO

44

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0

D. LOS CANCHOS

45

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0

E. ADAY CRAGS

46

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 1 2 1 1 1 0

F. YELMO CARPANTÓNICO

48

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 3 4 2 4 1 0

A. ALMOND BUTTRESS

55

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0

Walk-in time

Suitable for kids

Overview Map

Drive from Tafraout

Shade available

CRACK

43

Lots of sunshine

42

Page How to Use

Multi-Pitch

A. TOCHO DE TAFRAOUT B. CAMPSITE BOULDERS

Background

Single-Pitch

Sport routes

Crag Selector Traditional routes

Intro

Overview Map Page 30

Slab climbs

INTRODUCTION | Crag selector

Crack climbs

32

B. FLOR DE LUNA

56

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 0 1 2 0 1 1

C. TOCHO EL REGALITO

58

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 0 0 4 2 0 0

D. TOCHO DE TAZKA

59

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:20 0 0 0 1 2 0 2 0

E. PRISA MATA

60

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0

F. PALM GROVE

61

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0

G. TAZKA’S 2ND DOME

64

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 2 8 0 0 6 2 1

H. TAZKA’S 1ST DOME

69

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 2 2 0 0 3 0

I. TAZKA CRAG

72

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 1 2 6 4 1 11 3 0

J. TAZKA PUEBLO

76

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0

A. SECTOR IBRAHIM

82

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 3 2 3 3 1 0

B. IMYANE

86

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 2 1 1 0 1 3

C. WILDCAT WALL

92

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 3 2 0 1 2 1

D. FLAKE QUAKE

94

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 2 2 0 3 1 0

E. TRANSAHARANIA

96

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 0

F. HIGH TOR

98

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:20 0 0 2 3 0 1 1 2

G. BLACK WALL

100

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 5 6 0 1 2 3

H. LOVERS’ CRAG

103

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:10 0 0 1 2 3 1 2 1

I. JAFFA FLAKE

104

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 2

J. HYPER CRACK

105

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0

K. NAPOLEON’S HAT

108

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 1 0 1 2 3 2 0 3

L. ELEPHANT ROCK

110

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:15 0 1 1 8 3 2 4 2

M. HEYT MHARRES

115

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 0

N. SAN DIMAS

117

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:05 0:05 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1

O. TAGHZOUT CRAGS

118

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:15 0 0 1 2 0 0 0 0

Routes E4 + or F7+

Roadside

Routes E1 – E3 or F6

Access by hitching

Routes MVS – HVS or F5

Suitable for kids

Routes S – HS or F4

Shade available

Routes D – VD or F3

Sport routes

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 1

B. BAKING TOR

125

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 1

C. THIRD TOR

125

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 0 0 4 0 0 2 0 0

D. FOURTH TOR

126

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0

E. TAMAYURT ROCKS

127

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:05 0 0 0 2 1 2 0 0

F. OUDAFNE

128

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:05 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 0

Walk-in time

Traditional routes

SLAB

Lots of sunshine

Slab climbs

CRACK

Multi-Pitch

124

Single-Pitch

A. FIRST TOR

Page

Crack climbs

Drive from Tafraout

Crag selector | INTRODUCTION

Overview Map Page 30

G. AWMRKT TOR

130

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:10 1 0 1 0 1 0 0 1

H. RAINBOW TOR

131

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:05 2 0 0 0 1 0 1 0

I. AGUERD SLABS

133

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:10 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

J. HIGH SIERRA DOME

134

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:15 1 1 2 1 0 1 1 1

K. OFFWIDTHS BEYOND

139

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:20 0 0 0 1 2 0 0 2

A. KINDERGARTEN CRAGS

144

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:01 16 2 0 0 0 10 0 0

B. TELEGRAPH POLE CRAG

148

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 4 0 3 0 0 1 0 0

C. AKHADEJ

149

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:10 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0

A. AOUSIFT SLABS

154

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:02 1 2 8 1 0 5 0 1

B. EAST SLABS

156

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:10 0:10 3 4 8 0 0 0 0 0

C. EFLODNE

158

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:10 0 1 4 3 0 0 2 2

D. PAINTED ROCKS

160

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:02 0 0 1 0 2 0 3 0

E. AMALU WALL

163

CRACK

SLAB

TRAD

SPORT

Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

0:15 0:15 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 3

33

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

Looking across Tafraout towards the summit of Adrar Mqorn, which dominates the landscape to the south of town.

History Index

34

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

INTRODUCTION | Sport climbing recommendations

Overview Map Page 30

SPORT CLIMBING Recommendations

EASY SPORT CRAGGING Tazka's Second Dome (page 64) Tazka Crag (page 72) Eflodne (page 158)

INTERMEDIATE SPORT CRAGGING Tocho de Tafraout (page 42) Almond Buttress (page 55) Tazka Crag (page 72) The Black Wall (page 100) Eflodne (page 158)

INTERMEDIATE SPORT CRAGGING Yelmo Carpantรณnico (page 48) Tazka's First Dome (page 69) Tazka Crag (page 72) The Black Wall (page 100) Elephant Rock (page 110)

HARD SPORT CRAGGING Tocho el Regalito (page 58) Tocho de Tazka (page 59) Sector Ibrahim (page 82) Elephant Rock (page 110) Amalu Wall (page 163)

MULTI-PITCH BOLTED ROUTES History Index

If you've only got a couple of days in town, then don't miss these popular bolted climbs...

Freeway (F4), Tazka (page 65) NW Buttress (F4), Eflodne (page 159) Aday Buttress (F5b), Aday (page 47) ZZ (F5c), Tocho de Tafraout (page 42) Almond Ridge (F5c), Almond Buttress (page 55) The Silk Road (F5c), Tazka (page 67) Montagny (F6a), Tazka (page 71) Marble Arch (F6a+), Eflodne (page 159)

Unknown climbers on Danza Kuduro (F5+) on the sunny side of Aguerd Oudad's popular Black Wall (page 101).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Overview Map Page 30

Trad climbing recommendations | INTRODUCTION

TRAD CLIMBING

35

Intro

Recommendations

Background How to Use

EASY TRAD CRAGGING

Overview Map

Kindergarten Crags (page 144) Telegraph Pole Crag (page 148)

Crag Selector

INTERMEDIATE TRAD CRAGGING

Suggested Climbs

Tazka's Second Dome (page 64) Imyane (page 86) Wildcat Wall (page 92) Telegraph Pole Crag (page 148)

Aday Road Tazka Road

HARD TRAD CRAGGING

Aguerd Oudad

Imyane (page 86) Wildcat Wall (page 92) San Dimas (page 117) First Tor (page 124)

Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht

MULTI-PITCH TRAD ROUTES

Aousift

A selection of popular multi-pitch trad routes that are a good place to start...

Wide Sierra (HS 4b), High Sierra Dome (page 137) Sidewinder (VS 4c), Tazka (page 67) Mamma Mia (VS 4c), Tazka (page 67) High Sierra (VS 4c), High Sierra Dome (page 137) Flake Quake (HVS 5a), Flake Quake (page 95) NW Corner (E1 5c), Tocho de Tafraout (page 42)

Bouldering

History Index

Will Benfold on Flake Quake (HVS 5a), one of the most popular trad routes on Tafraout granite (page 95).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

36

Intro

INTRODUCTION | Crack days

CRACK DAY

Itineraries

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift

The idea of granite 'Crack Days' in Tafraout originated during the development of the quartzite crags on Jebel el Kest, when a day of granite crack climbing was something of a rest day from the long mountain walk-ins. Although the concept remains the same (to visit a number of easily accessible cracks in one day), none of the itineraries listed below can really be considered a 'rest day'. Instead, these action-packed tick-lists represent some of the best and most challenging crack-climbing on offer, and attempting to complete a list in a day is a brilliant way to experience the very best of Tafraout granite.

Good luck...!

DESERT ROCK Theoretically the easiest of the bunch, this selection of mid-grade cracks is no pushover, with two tricky multi-pitch VS routes late in the day. That said, it's a great challenge for those operating around the VS grade, and a good introduction to Tafraout's best cracks, finishing with stunning views from the attractive summit of Tazka's Second Dome.

Service with a Smile (Severe) (page 126) Crack Day (MVS 4a) (page 126) Tiny Crack (VS 5a) (page 125) Kitten Crack (HS 4b) (page 111) Cornflake (VS 4b) (page 93) Sidewinder (VS 4c) (page 67)

Bouldering

TAFRAOUT'S CLASSIC CRACK CLIMBS

History Index

Overview Map Page 30

This superb itinerary takes in the very best HVS jamming cracks in Tafraout, and for climbers operating at this grade it's a day not to miss!

Although technically harder than the Desert Rock list, these routes are all single-pitch climbs with short approaches, making it a slightly shorter undertaking.

Argan Crack (HVS 5b) (page 42) Hercules (HVS 5b) (page 87) El Hachame (HVS 5b) (page 89) Supercrack (E1 5b) (page 154) Azules de Vergara (HVS 5a) (page 160)

BACK-COUNTRY CRACKS Taking us well into the hills above Tafraout, this is a challenging itinerary of tough cracks and a fair amount of walking. The list finishes with one of the most remote routes in the area, from where it is possible either to walk over the col to Tafraout, or return to the parking spot near Aguerd Oudad.

Claude Davies' Anti-Atlas (E1 5b) (page 124) Black Wall Crack (HVS 5b) (page 101) Dodo's Hallelujah (HVS 4c) (page 99) Habanero (E1 5b) (page 99) Wafa Thin (HVS 4c) (page 99)

CRACK LOVERS' TICKLIST This selection of crack climbs are all situated in a small area around the north side of Aguerd Oudad, and can be completed without having to drive between crags. The routes include a variety of styles, with the layback of Jaffa Flake, the desperate chimney of The Very Big, tricky off-width climbing on Anonymous Crack, corner bridging on Venus, and steep jamming on Casino Royale.

Jaffa Flake (VS 5a) (page 104) The Very Big & The Very Small (E2 5c) (page 104) Anonymous Crack (E1 5c) (page 103) Venus (HVS 5b) (page 103) Casino Royale (E2 6a) (page 103)

Overview Map Page 30

Crack days | INTRODUCTION

AGUERD OUDAD CLASSICS

37

Intro

Taking in some of Aguerd Oudad's most famous extreme cracks, this is surely the ultimate jamming tick-list for climbers operating at the E2 level. All the routes are fairly close together but with different aspects, so it may be worth working out the ideal order based on whether you're trying to follow or avoid the sunshine.

Thunderball (E2 5c) (page 91) Road Runner (E1 5b) (page 93) Tough at the Top (E2 5b) (page 114) Trafalgar Crack (E2 5c) (page 109) Waterloo Crack (E1 5b) (page 109)

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

AWMRKT OFFWIDTHS

Aday Road

Wide cracks and off-widths are one of those things that people either love or hate, and whilst many will run away bravely, some will be unable to resist this mouth-watering selection of Tafraout's best wide cracks. Bring out your big gear and be ready for a brutal day...

Transaharania (E4 6a) (page 96) Rumpus (E4 5c) (page 125) Call of Duty (E4 6a) (page 130) Titan (E3 5b) (page 139) Cave Crack (E4 6a) (page 139)

Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

TAFRAOUT'S EXTREME CRACKS The toughest of the bunch, Tafraout's Extreme Cracks represents some of the most difficult and famous trad routes in town. For most people, even completing one of these routes is a major achievement, and putting them all together is an unimaginable challenge. Thankfully, good protection means that it's still worth giving these routes a go, and the odd bit of aid will make this memorable day of overhanging fun somewhat more accessible...

Davilofante (E3 6a) (page 43) Flor de Luna (E6 6b) (page 57) Prisa Mata (E6 6c) (page 60) Andromeda (E6 6c) (page 113) Negro Azabache (E5 6c) (page 161)

History Index

Judith Neaves enjoying perfect hand jams on Supercrack of Tafraout (E1 5b) (page 154).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

50

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

TAZKA ROAD

Looking out across Tafraout towards the Jebel el Kest massif from the summit of Tazka’s Second Dome, with the First Dome in the foreground. The multi-pitch routes on these two granite tors are amongst the most popular in the area, providing fun, low-grade climbing on excellent rock.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 52

Map Page 52

TAZKA ROAD

51

Intro Background How to Use

2. THE TAZKA ROAD

Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Ti f ra n

e

The Tazka Road

N

Intro

Map Page 52

11 00

TAZKA ROAD | AREA MAP

52

Tocho de Tafraout

(See page 30 for Overview Map) Scale 1:25 000

Background

0m

200m

400m

600m

800m

Cemetery

Cemetery

1km

How to Use Overview Map

TAFRAOUT (Tafraoute)

Camping 3 Palms

Crag Aday Selector 110

Hotel Les Amis

Post Coin de Office Nomad  Hotel Salama Hotel San Antoine 1117

ofante

Davil

Camping Tazga

1100

Tazka Tor

Tazka Crag

1140

ay

H. TAZKA’S 1st DOME p69

Ad

High Sierra

ua ke

Fla ke Q 1108

1116

1160

Napol Ha

Yellow Tor

ove

Agadir  111

1214

ll Va ra

ey

F. PALM GROVE p61

y lle Va Black Wall

The Fortress

Palm Grove Crag

Gr y Va lle

Ta zk a

1230

E. PRISA MATA p60

1118

GPS 29.70151, -8.98653

High Tor

ll Wa ck Bla

P

Second Dome

G. TAZKA’S 2nd DOME p64

1207

00

First Dome

D. TOCHO DE TAZKA p59

1

Flake Tor

1230

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ga Taz

C. TOCHO EL REGALITO Central Tor p58 V 1230 n

Imy

11

tu

res

I. TAZKA CRAG s Pa p72

Cirque du Soleil

e du Soleil

Saddleback Tor 1158

r Sie gh Hi

Dove Tor

s

1113

e dd Hi

Pa lm

rdo sta Ba

GPS 29.70608, -8.98627 0

cho

Cancho Alto

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1100

Tocho de Tazka

P

1080

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Ci rqu

LUNA p56

120

1094

1230 B. FLOR DE

Hidden Valley Tor

Ibrahim

izo

Tocho el Regalito

Cantilever Tor

North Tor

Imyan

all ey



P

Cancho GPS 29.70828, n’Targant -8.98686

00

Flor de Luna

A. ALMOND BUTTRESS p55

Sector

ho R

c Can

Ca n

GPS 29.71464, -8.97812

Lov ers ’ Cr ag

11

1061

Bouldering

es

P River

1100

Tazka (Tazga)

J. TAZKA Rock Carving PUEBLO  p76 La Gazelle

Ighir n’Targant

o Alm

Ancient Berber House

Pa stu r

ut dB

n

Dou Toulzoukht

Index

s

tres

Awmrkt

Basalt

Aguerd Oudad

History

Amandiers Tor

Sch.

ab

Tazka Road

Hotel Les Amandiers

Camping Granite Rose

0

Aday Road

Aousift

 Maison Troc

lley

1200

1300

Medical Centre

0

Hotel Tifawine

Peak

Suggested Climbs 1353

Sch.

Village

INTRODUCTION | TAZKA ROAD

Map Page 52

53

11

00

1100

THE TAZKA ROAD

Intro

Literally built into the sides of a granite tor, the ancient village of Tazka (alternatively Tazga or Tasga) is situated about 2km southwest of Tafraout and is one of the region’s historic treasures. As well as the fascinating ‘maison traditionelle’, where visitors can see inside a traditional Berber dwelling and glimpse their ancient way of life, Tazka is also home to a famous pre-historic rock engraving which attracts numerous tourists to the village.

Today, Tazka is a rapidly expanding suburb of Tafraout and new houses are being developed all along the recently surfaced road which runs out of town past the Hotel Les Amandiers down to the ancient part of the village. In some cases this development is affecting access to the crags so climbers should be aware that approach routes may vary as construction work continues.

For climbers, the Tazka valley now offers some of Tafraout’s best and most accessible sport climbing, particularly around the end of the valley on the Tazka Domes and Tazka Crag itself, which is without doubt the town’s premiere sport crag. Most routes can be accessed by foot or bike from Tafraout, and with plenty to go at across the grades, this picturesque valley is ideal for some relaxed granite cragging in the sunshine. Meanwhile, those in search of multi-pitch routes will enjoy the modern bolted routes on Almond Buttress and the two Tazka Domes, all of which provide fun summit experiences with excellent views across town.

1100

Katja Broadbent making the long stride across from the pinnacle on pitch 4 of Almond Ridge (F5c) on Almond Buttress (page 55).

This fun roadside climb is the closest multi-pitch route to Hotel les Amandiers, and provides a pleasant evening amusement.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

1100

1200

ne

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift

yane Tor

Bouldering

1100

Agadir 1132

1159

Elephant Rock 1150

History Heyt Mharres 1157

leon’s at



15

Tor

Aguerd Oudad

Index

54

TAZKA ROAD

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Steve Broadbent on Dark Side of the Moon (E1 5b / F6a) at Flor de Luna (page 57). Like many climbs in Tafraout, this route has a ‘traditional’ feel to it despite having bolts to protect the crux moves...

Photo: Katja Broadbent

Map Page 52

ALMOND BUTTRESS | TAZKA ROAD

Map Page 52

A

ALMOND BUTTRESS Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes Walk-in: 5 minutes

This is the vague buttress on the south side of the valley, just southwest of Hotel les Amandiers.

Although much of the route is scrambling and it is possible to walk off from all of the belays, it gives a surprisingly fun climb with excellent views across town.

The route stays in the shade until mid afternoon, so is a good choice on hot mornings. Likewise, it provides an excellent evening outing during the cooler months of winter.

Approach: Almond Ridge is one of the closest multi-pitch climbs to Tafraout and can be reached on foot from anywhere in town. If approaching by car, park on the loop road just southwest of Hotel Les Amandiers, from where the climb is reached in 5 minutes, diagonally up the hillside.

ďƒž Descent: Walk leftwards past the first rocky summit until it is

possible to scramble down left onto the hillside above the parking.

This can be descended easily to the road.

1. Almond Ridge F5c

SLAB SPORT

155m. A fun, low-commitment route with easy access

from Tafraout. Difficulty is concentrated in the lower section, but the hard moves are well bolted and very safe. The upper section features some very easy but well positioned climbing on good rock. The climb is fully bolted – take 12 quickdraws.

1) 40m (F5c) Start up the mossy slab to gain the left side of the vertical prow above. Excellent moves up this lead to an easier slab. Belay on a good ledge next to an argan tree.

2) 30m (F5b) Go up easy cracks and blocks to a steep wall. Step on to this from the right side and make a tricky move past a bolt to an easy slab.

3) 25m (F5a) Go up easy ground to the left side of the steep wall above. Move right across a hanging slab and pull onto a short cracked slab above. Belay at a pinnacle.

4) 30m (F4) Walk down left and make a long stride across the gap to gain the easy-angled rib. Follow this to a belay where it levels off.

5) 15m (F3) Walk along the ridge and scramble past a banana gendarme to belay beneath the summit block.

6) 15m (F5a) Climb the slabby wall to the top.

Steve & Katja Broadbent, January 2018. Photo on page 53.

55

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

1

History Index

Area Map on page 52 PM

5m

ALMOND BUTTRESS

62

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road

TAZKA ROAD | The Tazka Domes Overview

Map Page 52

The Tazka Domes

At the end of the Tazka valley lie the two Tazka Domes – home to Tafraout’s highest concentration of good quality, low-grade bolted routes. There’s everything here from single-pitch top-ropes to fun multipitch climbs, all on solid granite and easily accessible from town, so it’s no wonder that these crags have made Tazga one of the most popular sport climbing venues in the region.

All three crags face southeast and get lots of sunshine. As a result, they are best avoided during periods of warm weather, although there is some shade available later on in the afternoons. The routes have been recently bolted, so the quality of protection and anchors is generally good, although details of who bolted many of these routes have not been forthcoming. In these cases, in order to avoid pages of ‘unnamed’ routes, names have been applied retrospectively – if you have any more information then please do get in touch so that we can amend future editions of this guide.

There is a large parking area next to the last house on the Tazka road, right at the foot of Tazka Crag itself. Approaches from here are shown on the photo-topo below. ! CAUTION – There are a large number of beehives around the end of the track below the 2nd Dome, and aggressive swarms of bees have been reported. Climbers are advised to keep a safe distance and avoid the water butts which are put out for the bees to drink from.

Tazka Road

G. 2nd DOME p64

Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt

Freeway

Dou Toulzoukht

Mamma Mia

The Silk Road

Central Walls (page 66)

Aousift

Prominent brown wall

South Buttress (page 65)

Bouldering

Many cairns

Col between 1st and 2nd domes

! Bees!

Cairned way up slabs to col between two domes Small cairn Go left across stream here

History Index

La Gazelle 1061

Tazka (Tazga) Flor de Luna



zo o Ri

GPS 29.70151, Cancho -8.98653n’Targant

I. TAZKA CRAG p72

1113

res

1140

P

G. 2nd DOME p64

Second Dome

Palm Grove Crag

tu

First Dome

Pa stu r ay

Ad

dd Hi

Overview Map Crag Selector

Aday Road

Pa lm

1214

Aguerd Oudad

aV alle

Ta zk

East Buttress (page 71)

12

How to Use

y

Southeast Face (page 69)

V

Yellow Tor Tazka Road

Gr

Montagny

en

Suggested Climbs

ove

1118

Background Cent

1230

Tazka Crag

s Pa zga1st DOME TaH. p69 es

Car Yelm pan o ton ico

H. 1st DOME p69

Intro

1147

Tazka Tor

0

ast ard Ca nch oB

Cancho Alto

110

o

1080

1100

Hidden Valley Tor

Tocho de Tazka

1094

h

c Can

Aday

Tocho el Regalito

Cantilever Tor

1230

Valley

Ada y

Crag s

Ancient Berber House

North Tor

all ey

12

00

1100



Ighir n’Targant

1203

But

nd 63

o Alm

00

Rock Carving

El Lanchar

s

tres

The Tazka Domes Overview | TAZKA ROAD 11

Map Page 52

Saddleback Tor

Awmrkt

H

1158

Dark Tor

Rainb

Aousift

110

0

0

I. TAZKA CRAG p72

Dou Toulzoukht

110

Bouldering Awmrkt Tor 1160

Oudafne 1160 Agadir

P

Dou Toulzoukht

Track from centre of Tazka and Tafraout

History Index

Tam

Please be careful not to damage this wall

64

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road

TAZKA ROAD | SECOND DOME | South Buttress

F

TAZKA’S SECOND DOME Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes Walk-in: 10 minutes

Climbers looking for relaxed granite cragging, with plenty of variety and lots of sunshine, need look no further than Tazka’s Second Dome.

This excellent little summit has long been a popular ‘rest-day’ objective, as it combines a short approach with lots of fun climbing and magnificent views from the airy summit.

The dome is best known for the very popular easy route Freeway, but in recent years a number of equally worthwhile routes have been added, including a handful of single-pitch bolted lines and some excellent trad climbs as well.

Much potential for development still exists, so it is possible that climbers will find new bolted lines not described here.

Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Marion Wyllie enjoying the excellent run-out padding on the top pitch of Freeway (F4) as the sun sets on Tazka’s Second Dome.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 52

10m

South Buttress

One of the biggest and cleanest expanses of granite in the region, the South Buttress forms the left-hand skyline as seen on the approach from Tazka.

Approach: The easiest approach is made by following a good path on the opposite side of the valley. From the parking, continue along the good track past the beehives, then bear left and cross the watercourse to gain a well-cairned trail on the east side of the valley. Follow this until directly opposite Freeway, where it is easy to cut back across to the base of the crag. See overview on page 62.

 Descent: Head up rightwards over the fine little summit,

then descend the northeast ridge a short way until it is possible to scramble down on the left (north) side of the ridge to the broad col between the two domes and an easy walk back to the valley. Since the descent comes out close to the parking it is advisable not to leave anything at the base of the route.

South Buttress | SECOND DOME | TAZKA ROAD

Map Page 52

1. Freeway F4

BOLD

SLAB SPORT

120m. Enjoyable easy padding up the left side of the

south face, with fine views from the summit, particularly at sunset. Too easy to be called a sport route, Freeway is best described as an easy multi-pitch route with bolts: great for rest days, kids and bimbles! The route and belays are fully equipped, requiring 10 quickdraws.

1) 35m (F4) Start close to the arête at the left side of the dome. A few tricky slab moves gain easier ground, then an easy traverse leads up rightward to a belay.

2) 45m (F4) Runout padding up bobbly granite. Belay at the right side of a cave.

3) 30m (F4-) Walk up right then mantel up the steep left wall. Walk up, then to the right, to finish up the final bolted slab. Descend by continuing up over the summit and down the northeast ridge.

Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013. Photo on page 64.

2. Cul-de-Sac F4+

CARE

ABSEIL

SLAB SPORT

60m. The line of bolts just right of the round hole

provides a worthwhile alternative to the first pitch of Freeway. A second pitch up the left side of the upper slab has some very easy climbing, but no bolts at the anchor...

1) 35m (F4+) Six bolts to a shared anchor with Freeway.

2) 25m (F4) The upper pitch finishes in the middle of the slab, and has no anchor. It is therefore best avoided!

3. Piste d’Or F5a

ABSEIL

SLAB SPORT

35m. Very pleasant but slightly bold climbing, sharing the last bolt with the next route. 5 bolts to the Freeway belay.

4. The Mirror F5c

ABSEIL

SLAB SPORT

35m. Tricky smearing up the smooth slab. 6 bolts to the Freeway belay.

5. Eve F5c

ABSEIL

SLAB SPORT

35m. The right-hand line has some hard climbing low

down, easing considerably in its upper half. 7 bolts to a lower-off.

6. The Turtle’s Head / Shardana HVS 5b TRAD

110m. Good climbing up the obvious crack system.

1) 30m (5b) Make difficult moves off blocks to get established, then move right to climb a corner. Traverse boldly rightwards at the top of this to reach a belay in the main crack system.

2) 50m (4c) Follow the diagonal crack to gain the easy slab beneath the roof. Follow this to belay under the roof.

3) 30m (4a) Avoid the roof on the right-hand side then continue up the shallow corner above to the summit.

Bruce Kerry, James Strongman & Jason Clifford, March 2006.

A line believed to be similar was also reported here as ‘Shardana’ by Marco Marrosu & Francesco Ruiu, April 2015.

65

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

2

History Index 6

2 1

3

4

Area Overview on page 62 5

10m

South Buttress

72

TAZKA ROAD | TAZKA CRAG

Map Page 52

I

Intro

TAZKA CRAG Shade

Background

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes Walk-in: 2 to 5 minutes

This excellent little sport crag is located just minutes from the parking spot at the end of the Tazka road. It is well bolted with modern expansion bolts, and now represents Tafraout’s best venue for low- to mid-grade bolt clipping.

The crag is a bit of a sun trap, but the right-hand face does go into shade around mid-afternoon and can provide a welcome escape from the usual heat.

First ascent details for this crag are not known, and so names have been applied retrospectively in order to avoid an entire crag of ‘unnamed’ routes – if you have any more information about these climbs then please get in touch so that we can update future editions.

Approach: This is probably Tafraout’s most accessible crag, being located just yards from the parking area. With such easy access and good quality climbing, it sees plenty of traffic and so it is particularly important to take great care not to damage the stone wall next to the car park – there is an easier crossing point underneath the large argan tree.

How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift

H. 1st DOME p69

Bouldering

I. TAZKA CRAG p72

Left Side (page 73) Right Side (page 75)

History Index

Please be careful not to damage this wall Mark Stevenson above the bouldery crux of Don Karnage (F7a) on the Front Face of Tazka Crag (page 74).

Photo: Steve Broadbent

P

Front Face (page 74)

Left Side | TAZKA CRAG | TAZKA ROAD

Map Page 52

PM

5m

The Left Side

73

Intro

The left-hand side of the crag has some well-bolted easy lines that stay in the sun for most of the day.

Background How to Use

 Descent: These routes have double-bolt chain lower-offs.

Overview Map

1. Aladdin F3+

SLAB

SPORT

Crag Selector

18m. The attractive rib is as easy as they come. Five bolts to a chain lower-off.

Suggested Climbs

2. Arista F4+

SLAB

SPORT

3. Calliope F4

SLAB

SPORT

20m. The runnel and slab above. Five bolts.

Jim Nuttall on Arista (F4+) at Tazka Crag.

25m. Nice climbing up from the large boulder. Five bolts to the lower-off.

Aday Road

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Tazka Road Area Overview on page 62 PM

TAZKA CRAG | Left Side

Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht

20m 25m

18m

5m

Aguerd Oudad

Aousift Bouldering

1

History Index 2 3

11

Cemetery Cemetery AGUERD OUDAD | AREA MAP

80

TAFRAOUT (Tafraoute)

Camping 3 Palms

Intro

N Hotel Tifawine

Scale 1:25 000 0m

Hotel Les Amis

Hotel San Antoine

Overview Map

(see p30 for Overview Map)

Medical Centre

Post Coin de Office Nomad  Hotel Salama

How to Use

Aguerd Oudad

Sch.

Background

200m

400m

600m

800m

1km

 Maison Troc Hotel Les Amandiers

ping Crag e Rose Selector

Suggested Climbs

Amandiers Tor

Sch.

1100

s

tres

River Basalt

D. FLAKE Flake Tor QUAKE p94 1207

1230

F. HIGH TOR p98

ll Wa ck Bla

1108

11 00

H. LOVERS’ CRAG p103

y lle Va Black Wall Lov ers ’ Cr ag

1230

1230

120

Bouldering

G. BLACK WALL p100

Agadir 1132

P

0

High Tor Tazka Tor

Imyane Tor

ua ke

00

all ey

E. TRANSAHARANIA p96 Central Tor

GPS 29.71060, -8.96798

High Sierra

P

1116

1150

P

ll Va ra

ey

y

GPS 29.69841, -8.96674

lab

s

Dove Tor

Ag ue

1158

r Sie gh Hi

rd S

Saddleback Tor

Dark Tor

Awmrkt Tor

Agadir  1115

Rainbow Tor

mr kt V alle

Valley

ove

Index

L. ELEPHANT ROCK p110

O. TAGHZOUT CRAGS p118

Heyt Mharres N. SAN DIMAS p117

P Napoleon’s Hat

I. JAFFA FLAKE p104

1214

Elephant Rock

1157

1160

History

Turning awkward to spot 1159

P

J. HYPER CRACK p105The Fortress

Yellow Tor

B. IMYANE p86

Fla ke Q

11

V

Cirque du Soleil C. WILDCAT WALL p92

e du Soleil

Ibrahim

en dd Hi

Ci rqu

P

A. SECTOR IBRAHIM p82

Aw

First Tor

K. NAPOLEON’S HAT Tor Village p108

M. HEYT MHARRES p115

Aguerd Oudad

1200

1230

1100

North Tor

Sector

Dou Tocho de Tazka Toulzoukht

Imyane

1100

But

A

Aday Road

Aousift

1100

nd lmo

Tazka Road Flor de Luna Aguerd Hidden Oudad Cantilever Valley Tor Tor el Awmrkt 1147 o

Gr

Map Page 80

Map Page 80

INTRODUCTION | AGUERD OUDAD

AGUERD OUDAD

81

Intro

Heading south out of Tafraout, the R107 passes through a narrow valley and the ancient agadir of Imyane. Beyond this, the valley opens out into a dramatic landscape of granite tors around the affluent village of Aguerd Oudad, which is located approximately 3km south of Tafraout itself.

The village has always been a popular stop for tourists, and is generally considered to be the gateway to Tafraout’s beautiful granite back-country. Towering seemingly straight up above the narrow red-brick streets and artistically decorated houses is the striking monolith of Napoleon’s Hat – one of Tafraout’s most famous natural features and a magnet for climbers and tourists alike. The summit, an ancient agadir in which Berbers would traditionally keep the village valuables, is not attainable without some climbing skills, although many people walk up as far as the Balcony on the southwest face to enjoy magnificent views along the Awmrkt Valley towards the painted rocks.

Surrounding Napoleon’s Hat itself, of course, is an array of granite domes which have plenty to offer visiting climbers, including two of Tafraout’s best sport crags (The Black Wall and Elephant Rock) alongside many test-piece trad cracks and the odd multi-pitch route. The crags generally have straightforward approaches and due to their proximity to Tafraout they make good venues for climbers without their own transport – the walk from the centre of Tafraout to Aguerd Oudad typically takes approximately 30 minutes.

Dawn light on the east face of Napoleon’s Hat above Aguerd Oudad.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

98

AGUERD OUDAD | HIGH TOR | Eastern Slopes

Map Page 80

Area Map on page 80

Intro

20m

Summit of High Tor

HIGH TOR | East Slopes

Background How to Use

5

Overview Map

4

2 3

Crag Selector 1

Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

F

HIGH TOR – Eastern Slopes Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes Walk-in: 20 to 25 minutes

Alternative approach from Tafraout

To the left (west) of Flake Quake lies a narrow boulder-choke at the entrance to the remote Black Wall Valley. This scenic valley runs up past the Black Wall to the eastern slopes of High Tor, where a handful of isolated climbs lie scattered across the hillside.

With a sunny, southerly aspect and stunning, wild scenery, the eastern slopes of High Tor are one of Tafraout’s most picturesque places to climb – here climbers will enjoy the very best of Tafraout’s remote back-country, just 20 minutes from the car.

Approach: A narrow track leaves the main Aguerd Oudad road (R107) just south of the narrowest part of the valley, running in a southwesterly direction beneath Flake Quake and the boulder-choke entrance to Black Wall Valley. Park carefully on this track, taking care not to block the track or damage irrigated crops.

From the track, the easiest approach is to follow a shallow gully / ramp directly up to the Black Wall, from where the various small crags on High Tor can be identified. Climbers without transport can also make the approach on foot via Cirque du Soleil and the east col of High Tor (see map on page 80 for this approach).

GPS 29.70025, -8.96785 F. HIGH TOR East Slopes p98 F. TRANSAHARANIA p96

P G. BLACK WALL p100

P

H. LOVERS’ CRAG p103

P

P

Eastern Slopes | HIGH TOR | AGUERD OUDAD

Map Page 80

Summit of High Tor

Area Map on page 80

25m

99

Intro

HIGH TOR | Upper Walls

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector

5

Suggested Climbs

1. Piton Crack E3 6a

UNCHECKED

THIN

20m. Little is known about the thin crack, but it sports some old pitons and looks very hard indeed...

2. Dodo’s Hallelujah HVS 4c

25m

TRAD

TRAD

25m. The groove / crack-line to the left of Habanero

has a difficult start with good climbing above. Follow the main crack until a step left gains the left-hand crack in the upper slab. Belay at a prominent boulder.

Upper Walls

Aday Road

Situated just below the 1230m summit of High Tor, the Upper Walls are home to a single, excellent route in a commanding position above Black Wall Valley.

Approach: The outcrop can be approached either via the Black Wall and up Black Wall Valley as for the other routes, or by passing over the col from Tafraout and Cirque du Soleil (see map).

Steve & Katja Broadbent, March 2018.

3. Habanero E1 5b

CRACK

TRAD

5. Wafa Thin HVS 4c

Photo on page 97.

feature, held to the rock by little more than wishful thinking. Follow the flake carefully, with some trepidation...

CRACK

TRAD

15m. The short hand-crack, located some 50 metres

BOLD

Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht

TRAD

30m. The left-trending undercut flake is a remarkable

splitter, with difficult moves to get established before a magnificent layback finale.

Aguerd Oudad

Aousift

20m. A superb crack climb up the tempting wide

4. Scotch Bonnet E1 5b

Tazka Road

Bouldering

Steve & Katja Broadbent, March 2018.

right of Habanero.

G. BLACK WALL p100

Upper Walls Habanero

5

Col over to Cirque du Soleil and Tafraout

3

E. TRANSAHARANIA p96

History Index

Boulder-choke gully at entrance to Black Wall Valley

Towards main road

134 AWMRKT | HIGH SIERRA DOME

Intro

J. OFF-WIDTHS BEYOND p139

Background How to Use

Map Page 122

I. HIGH SIERRA DOME p134

GPS 29.69199, -8.96921

Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

H. AGUERD SLABS p133

Aday Road

P Wadi crossing (you’ve gone too far if you hit this!)

Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

K

HIGH SIERRA DOME Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes Walk-in: 10 to 15 minutes

Located due west of Napoleon’s Hat, on the north side of the peaceful High Sierra Valley, this excellent granite dome is identifiable by a huge flake up its southern front – the line taken by one of the most popular granite climbs in the area.

Although it is High Sierra which sees most traffic, all of the multi-pitch routes here are worth climbing, making this one of Tafraout’s top spots for mid-grade multi-pitch granite trad climbing.

The routes get lots of sunshine, and are best avoided during very hot weather.

Approach: The shortest approach is from parking as for the Aguerd Slabs (see map above). Turn off the R107 into Aguerd Oudad, following the brick road through the centre of the village and leaving the main square via the small track next to the shop. Follow this track out of the village, passing a gate, and on into the Awmrkt Valley. Just before the first wadi crossing a smaller track turns off on the right.

Follow this and park at its end, next to a large sandy wadi. The tor is visible approximately 1km to the northwest. Continue on foot, crossing the main Awmrkt watercourse and passing ancient agriculture to gain the entrance to High Sierra Valley.

Alternative scramble descent down east face History 1

Index 2

5

HIGH SIERRA DOME | AWMRKT 135

Map Page 122

Photo: Anne Linda van Kappel

Area Map on page 122

15m

Bolted top pitch up summit block (see High Sierra, next page)

Northwest col descent

HIGH SIERRA DOME | South Face

ďƒž Descent: The easiest descent from the summit is to

continue along the broad summit ridge to the northwest col, close to Offwidths Beyond (see map opposite). Turn left at the col and descend southwards to pick up a vague trail that returns to the valley floor amongst large boulders.

It is also possible to scramble rightwards off the summit and descend the east face (two awkward steps).

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road

Southwest Corner (next page)

Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

1. My First Little Crack VS 5a

SLAB

TRAD

130m. Some good climbing up the left-hand side of the

front face, featuring a short difficult crux at a prominent triangular roof.

1) 45m (4a) Climb slabs up the left side of a huge blocky flake to reach a good ledge.

2) 40m (-) Move to the left end of the ledge and go up over large blocks to a ledge directly below the prominent triangular roof.

3) 15m (5a) Climb up to a block beneath the roof, then leave it awkwardly for athletic moves rightwards to a belay just above the right-hand side of the roof.

4) 30m (-) Easy scrambling up the vegetated groove to the top.

Tim Dufour & StĂŠphane Massin, February 2018.

History 1

Index

150 AOUSIFT

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Judith Neaves on Gecko Highway (F5b) at the Aousift Slabs (page 155). Despite some flaky rock, this sunny roadside crag has a lot to offer for lovers of bold friction climbing.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 152

Map Page 152

AOUSIFT 151

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector

6. AOUSIFT

Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

152 AOUSIFT | AREA MAP

R107 towards Aguerd Oudad and Tafraout

Aousift Area

N

Intro

Map Page 152

(See page 30 for Overview Map) Scale 1:25 000

Background

0m

200m

400m

600m

800m

1km

How to Use

Aw mr kt

tra

ck

Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

E. AMALU WALL p163

Aday Road Tazka Road

These tracks are not always passable without 4WD

Aguerd Oudad D. PAINTED ROCKS p160

Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift

A. AOUSIFT SLABS p154

P Use this track to access Painted Rocks by car

Dou Toulz o

ukht tra ck

Bouldering

GPS 29.66994, -8.97394

These tracks are not passable by car GPS 29.66393, -8.96075

Do not block turnoff – it is used by locals for access!

P B. EAST SLABS p156

Turn off to Painted Rocks (signposted)

History

Please park carefully on roadside, leaving enough space for lorries to pass.

Index

P

it to A Road nsour a M C. EFLODNE p158 GPS 29.65943, -8.97915

Map Page 152

INTRODUCTION | AOUSIFT 153

AOUSIFT

Intro

The R107 runs south out of Tafraout, passing Aguerd Oudad and Napoleon’s hat before arriving at the small village of Aousift. Beyond this, the road reaches the roadside Aousift slabs just before a fork, where the Ait Mansour road climbs up into the mountains. Just south of this is the turn-off to the Painted Rocks – the start of the Dou Toulzoukht track, which meanders its way westward past Eflodne, the Painted Rocks and Dou Toulzoukht, before joining the R104 (Aday Road) just south of Afella Ouday.

The Painted Rocks themselves are one of Tafraout’s most famous tourist attractions, playing host not just to coaches and tour groups, but also year-round travellers and frequent desert raves. Indeed, at certain times of year the landscape between the Painted Rocks and Awmrkt becomes covered in camper vans and converted vehicles of all shapes and sizes, and when one of the raves is taking place it can be impossible to climb here.

For climbers, the Painted Rocks are hardly the main attraction, although an ascent of Azules de Vergara is always popular for novelty value. This area does, however, have two more important crags, with Amalu Wall providing some of the region's hardest sport climbing, and Eflodne being just about the best spot for longer, lower grade routes. Both stay in the shade for most of the day and are therefore good options for those wishing to escape from the heat.

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

The Painted Rocks are a striking feature on Tafraout’s semi-desert landscape, with Jebel el Kest behind.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

160 AOUSIFT | PAINTED ROCKS | Blue Boulder

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

D

Map Page 152

THE PAINTED ROCKS Shade

Families

Hitch

Roadside

Drive from Tafraout: 15 minutes Walk-in: 2 minutes

Painted in 1984 by Belgian artist Jean Veramme, Tafraout’s painted rocks have always been a popular bohemian hang-out. Today, they continue to draw all sorts of visitors who generally mill around, wondering what they are doing there almost as much as they wonder why Veramme painted the rocks in the first place.

One thing, however, cannot be denied – the rocks are a bizarre and striking sight in the pink desert, and they certainly provide a talking point for the hundreds of visitors that find themselves there each year.

The painted rocks are also the unexpected location for numerous desert raves, which take place here traditionally each New Year, February, and late summer – events which attract revellers from across Europe, who turn up in force in camper vans and converted vehicles of all shapes and sizes.

For climbers, the rocks are best known as a good place to spend a few hours on a wet day, although the two trad routes here are actually well worth a visit in their own right.

Approach: The rocks are easily reached by car from Tafraout in about 10 to 15 minutes. Drive south out of town, through Aguerd Oudad and Aousift, as far a turn-off on the right about 1.5km after leaving Aousift. See map on page 152.

The rocks can also be reached by walking from Aguerd Oudad up the valley past the third Tor, or from Tazka by continuing up the path beyond Tazka’s Palm Grove.

Catherine Kenyon on the irresistable Azules de Vergara (HVS 5a) at the Painted Rocks.

Photo: Ron Kenyon

1. Azules de Vergara HVS 5a

CRACK

the best climb in the area, but is very, well... blue! As a result it is a local classic and one of the most frequently climbed granite routes in Tafraout. Once bolted, it now provides a slippery trad route of undeniable curiosity.

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996. Photo this page.

Area Map on page 152

2m

PAINTED ROCKS Negro Azabache

History Index

1

TRAD

25m. The striking crack up the largest blue boulder isn’t

Black Boulder | PAINTED ROCKS | AOUSIFT 161

Map Page 152

Area Map on page 152 AM

2m

PAINTED ROCKS | Black Boulder

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt

2

Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

AM

3m

The Black Boulder

This overhanging boulder is located to the right of the main blue boulder (see photo opposite).

2. Negro Azabache E5 6c

STEEP CRACK

TRAD

10m. Lurking behind the black boulder, this perfect

splitter is one of Tafraout’s most infamous fist-crack challenges, and what it lacks in length it more than makes up for in other ways. Brilliant! F7a+

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

3. Sit Start E6 6c?

STEEP CRACK

TRAD

12m. The sit start to Negro Azabache starts from the

very back of the roof. Tape up, and be ready for slippery horizontal weirdness. F7c.

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

History Index

164 BOULDERING

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

Bouldering on the Second Tor in the Awmrkt Valley, in the heart of Tafraout's granite back-country.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Map Page 166

Map Page 166

BOULDERING 165

Intro

7. BOULDERING

Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht Aousift Bouldering

History Index

166 BOULDERING | AREA MAP

Map Page 166

A. TOCHO BOULDERS

Intro

GPS 29.72674, -8.97949

Aday Peak

Background

P

p168

TAFRAOUT (Tafraoute)

Camping 3 Palms

1353

How to Use

Hotel Les Amandiers

Overview Map Camping Tazga

Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

GPS 29.70817, -8.99564

MAISON TROC Bouldering Mat Rental



Camping Granite Rose

Imyane

Tazka (Tazga)

P

D. ELEPHANT BOULDERS p175

Ighir n’Targant Aday GPS 29.70210, -8.96583

Aday Road B. HIGH COUNTRY BOULDERS p170

Tazka Road

Dou Toulzoukht

GPS 29.69199, -8.96921

Afella Ouday

Aousift

A note on grades...

Index

P

P

GPS 29.68782, -8.97183

Bouldering

History

Aguerd Oudad

7

Awmrkt

C. AGUERD BOULDERS p172

4

0 R1

R10

Aguerd Oudad

P

Tafrout bouldering has never really been about grades – the hard problems have never been recorded and the circuits are more about having fun than ticking grades. The circuit colours therefore have only a loose correlation with the difficulty of the problems. Very approximately, they equate as follows: White – Children's circuit Green – Very Easy circuit Yellow – Easy circuit Blue – Easy circuit Red – Intermediate circuit Pink – Traditional

E. 2nd TOR BOULDERS p176 F. 3rd TOR BOULDERS p177

P

G. TAMAYURT BOULDERS p178

GPS 29.68082, -8.97833

MAISON TROC Route Imyane, Tafraout 

Painted Rocks

Maps | Guidebooks | Bouldering Mat Rental

Aousift

Map Page 166

INTRODUCTION | BOULDERING 167

Intro Background How to Use Overview Map Crag Selector Suggested Climbs

Aday Road Tazka Road Aguerd Oudad Awmrkt Dou Toulzoukht

On the kid’s white circuit at Tamayurt Rocks – a brilliant place for the whole family to enjoy the magical Awmrkt landscape.

Aousift

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Bouldering

BOULDERING

The bouldering scene in Tafraout has always been somewhat esoteric thanks to the coarse-grained nature of the granite, but it can be considered in two broad categories.

Firstly, isolated boulders dotted around the landscape have seen hard and high-quality bouldering problems established since the 1960s. These ascents have traditionally been left unrecorded, and finding details of individual problems for this volume has proved impossible. Climbers wishing to explore the town’s upper-grade bouldering are therefore invited and encouraged to head off into the back-country with an open mind, and explore the wonderful potential that exists.

In more recent years, a number of low-grade bouldering circuits have been developed around the town, involving predominantly friction climbing on granite of mixed quality. On these easier problems, the occasional section of crumbly rock is less of a problem, and although it can be somewhat disconcerting on a first visit, all of these circuits can provide a fun afternoon of easy rock and beautiful scenery, perfect for a rest day or evening picnic.

In most cases, the landings are good, though many people will prefer to make use of a bouldering mat – these can be rented from Maison Troc on the R107 heading south from the centre of Tafraout (see map).

A number of circuits have been developed specifically for young children, and the bouldering here has been found to be particularly family friendly.

History Index