Tatyanaleonov nourish vietnameseherbs

GLOBAL CUISINE

Medicinal

Vietnamese

Herbs Words: Tatyana Leonov Recipes and images: Martyna Angell wholesome-cook.com

Picture a hot bowl of Vietnamese pho.

What are the first flavours that you think of? Coriander?

Mint? Star anise?

Cinnamon? Beef? It’s probably a mix of all of the above and more.

Distinctive, healthy and flavoursome, fresh herbs are at the centre of Vietnamese cooking.

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Herbs have been used throughout Western and Eastern cultures for centuries. Renowned for their freshness, therapeutic properties and ability to entirely alter the taste and texture of a dish, herbs are commonly referred to as plants.

“Definitions differ depending on who you talk to – botanists, herbalists, horticulturalists and so on – but vegetables, spices and herbs all have a lot of similarities and overlap in many different ways,” explains Sarah Leung, holistic nutritionist, accredited practising dietitian and owner of Healthy Energy.

Although definitions may vary, it’s a well-known fact that herbs are used frequently across a plethora of cuisines and in all sorts of ways. In Vietnamese cooking in particular, herbs are used to layer, season p100

Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)

Vietnamese coffee is served cold, over ice and is very sweet because sweetened condensed milk is used. If you would like to use canned sweetened condensed milk, you can, however, my version is made with a sugar-and fructose-free homemade rice syrup condensed milk, which can also be made using coconut milk for a dairy-free Viet coffee fix.

SERVES 2 • 2 cups ice cubes • 1 cup strong coffee • ½ cup rice syrup condensed milk, see below

For the Rice Syrup Condensed Milk • ½ cup rice malt syrup • ¾ cup coconut milk

Divide ice cubes and coffee between two serving glasses. Slowly pour in condensed milk and serve with a straw.

To make Rice Syrup Condensed Milk, place rice syrup and coconut milk in a small saucepan set over medium-high heat. Whisk together and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes or until the milk has turned caramel in colour and thickened slightly. Cool and store in an airtight container or jar in the fridge for up to one week.

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Essentials

With Valcom curries, creating authentic Thai dishes at home for family and friends has never been easier!

When combining herbs with chillies, spices and aromatics such as ginger, galangal and turmeric, which all boast their own health benefits, you have a potent phytochemical mix.

• 300g beef fillet, thinly sliced • 4 tbsp Valcom Green Curry Paste • 400ml TCC Coconut Milk • 2 tbsp Squid Fish Sauce • 1 tsp sugar • 1 cup green beans, cut into 2cm length • 1 cup eggplant, cut into large pieces • ½ cup green and red capsicum, cut into large pieces • 2 tbsp Valcom Kaffir Lime Leaves • 2 cups basil leaves • 2 tbsp red chilli, sliced

Method 1. Stir-fry green curry paste in saucepan until fragrant, add half can of coconut milk and bring to the boil over medium heat. 2. Add remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, sugar and bring back to the boil. Add meat and simmer until cooked. 3. Add green beans, eggplant and capsicum pieces, simmer until vegetables are tender. 4. Add kaffir lime leaves, basil leaves and sliced chilli just before removing from heat. Serve with steamed Golden Phoenix Jasmine Rice.

Available in the Asian Food Section of your local supermarkets and leading Asian grocery stores.

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Pork & Mushroom Noodle Rolls (Banh Cuon)

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While traditionally the dish is made with freshly steamed thin rice paper pastry, store-bought fresh rice noodle sheets – sold on trays in rolls – are just as good.

They are available from the refrigerated section of most Asian grocers. Shiitake mushrooms can be substituted with about one-and-a-half cups of finely sliced button mushrooms.

SERVES 2

Ingredients

• 20g dried shiitake mushrooms • 1 ⁄8 cup macadamia, peanut or olive oil • 3 small garlic cloves, crushed • ½ small red onion, diced finely • 250g minced pork • 2 tsp fish sauce • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste, optional • 3 rolls fresh banh cuon rice noodles

To serve

• A few sprigs Thai basil • Fried shallot

Method

Cover shiitake mushrooms with hot water and soak for 10 minutes. Drain water and chop the mushrooms finely.

Heat half the oil in a large pan set over medium heat and fry off onion and garlic until fragrant. Increase heat to medium high and add remaining oil and pork. Working with a metal whisk or wooden spoon, break the pork into small granules as it cooks. Add mushrooms and fish sauce and stir fry to combine and for the meat to finish cooking. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper, to taste, if using. Set aside while you prepare the pastry.

To prepare the pastry, steam each roll for three minutes or microwave on high for 20 seconds. Transfer to a sheet of baking paper and unroll the pastry. Cut the sheet into two rectangles. Place about ¼ cup of the pork mixture near the closest edge of the pastry, then roll up. Repeat with remaining pastry and filling.

Serve with a few sprigs Thai basil and a good sprinkling of fried shallots.

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Although there are plenty of herbs, the most readily available ones that can be used across an assortment of dishes include: Vietnamese mint – which is interestingly not part of the mint family despite its similar appearance and odour to other mint varieties. “Vietnamese mint can help enhance digestive processes and relieve mild gastric pain when used in cooking,” explains naturopath and nutritionist Renee Leonard-Stainton. “And, traditionally, it was also used in soothing tea and even added to steam baths to improve skin conditions.”

The heart-shaped betel leaf – often used in stews or as a wrap when chargrilling in Vietnamese cooking, has traditionally been used to aid digestion.

It’s said to help relieve gas due to its anti-flatulent properties and is also commonly used as a mouth freshener.

Coriander – one of the most popular herbs used in Vietnamese cooking and is considered to be a good source of dietary fibre, vitamins (in particular vitamin C) and minerals like calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium.

“Many of the healing properties of coriander can be attributed to its exceptional phytonutrient content,” says Leonard-Stainton. “Naturopaths will often recommend increasing consumption of coriander when the body needs to detox, particularly from heavy metal or chemical exposure.”

Rice paddy herb – regularly used in sour fish soup along with tamarind, tomato and okra for a tangy and flavourful punch. According to Will Shannon, one of Australia’s leading iridologists and natural medicine practitioners, “Rice paddy has antibacterial properties.”

Lemongrass – like coriander, it is commonly used throughout Vietnamese cooking, and the essential oil present in lemongrass has antibacterial properties.

“Lemongrass is a digestive aid, which is one of the reasons it is commonly incorporated into Vietnamese dishes,” Leonard-Stainton says.

Thai basil – encompasses a few different varieties of basil. The three main ones used in Vietnamese cooking are Thai sweet basil, holy basil and Thai lemon basil. According to experts, these basils collectively have antibacterial, anti-fungal and antioxidant properties.

Perilla (also known as shiso leaf) – another herb that’s often used in soups and teas and recognised in Vietnamese culture for its soothing qualities. “It’s prized for colds and flus as it helps clear the lungs and upper respiratory system,” Shannon says. nourish magazine }

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OBAP

오 밥

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Vietnamese Beef Soup with Noodles (Pho Bo)

Probably the most famous of Vietnamese dishes, pho is said to have medicinal qualities due to the wholesome nature of the beef broth, as well as herbs and spices used to make the soup. The cooking time is well worth it, as the flavours develop with time. Beef fillet or rump steaks are best for serving. You can use fresh or dried flat rice noodles if you find the latter more convenient.

Serves 2 Ingredients For the Aromatics Spice Pouch: • ¼ tbsp coriander seeds • ¼ tbsp Sichuan peppercorns • ¼ tbsp cumin seeds • ¼ tbsp fennel seeds • 3 cardamom seeds • 4 whole cloves • 3 whole star anise • 1 (10cm long piece) cassia bark • ½ tbsp whole black peppercorns

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For the Pho Stock • 2½ litres beef stock • 1 ⁄8 cup fish sauce • 30g fresh ginger knob • 2 tbsp unrefined sugar (rice syrup/ honey)

To Serve • 1 cup fresh flat rice noodles • 150g beef steaks, sliced paper thin • 1 cup blanched mung bean sprouts • 8 sprigs Thai basil • 4 sprigs mint or Vietnamese mint • 2 lemon wedges

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Method

Dry-roast all Aromatics Spice Pouch ingredients in a small pan over medium heat until fragrant. Cool, then grind using a mortar and pestle. Add the ground spices to a muslin square and tie up tightly in a knot. Set aside.

Place stock, fish sauce, ginger, sugar and spice pouch in a large pot. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 to 45 minutes for the flavours to develop.

When ready, divide rice noodles between bowls (these will cook in the stock). Top with beef slices and pour over boiling hot stock. Top the soup with sprouts. Serve fresh herbs and and lemon on the side.

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and accompany meals. In fact, the Vietnamese use the word rau thom for both vegetables and fragrant herbs, because they use both in copious amounts regularly. Raw leaves and stems are stirred into sautés, scattered atop steaming soups, slipped into delicate rice paper rolls, mixed with refreshing salads, and often served on the side too – because the Vietnamese like to be in charge of how their dish tastes.

“The use of fresh and aromatic herbs is one of the most important foundations of traditional Vietnamese cooking,” says Renée Leonard-Stainton, practising naturopath and nutritionist and founder of popular natural health blog reneenaturally.com.

“Vietnamese cooking is often described as ‘fragrant’ and this is in part thanks to the tradition of throwing in herbs while cooking and using them as a garnish. This helps the herbs maintain their subtle fragrance while retaining their optimum nutritional benefits.”

“The use of fresh and aromatic herbs is one of the most important foundations of traditional Vietnamese cooking.”

Steamed Fish with Lemongrass (Ca Hap Sa)

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I used mahi mahi fillets here because they are a more sustainable catch, but any type of white meaty fish would work well here. The fish becomes fragrant from the mixture of herbs and remains beautifully juicy as it steams inside the paper bag. You can serve this dish with some rice or steamed vegetables.

SERVES 2 Ingredients

• 200–300g mahi mahi fillet (or other white fish) • 2 sprigs fresh coriander, stalks and roots only, leaves reserved • 1 stalk lemongrass, trim off woody ends • ½ long red chilli, seeds removed if preferred • 1½ tsp unrefined sugar (honey or brown sugar) • 1 tbsp fish sauce • 3 tbsp fresh lime juice

Top each fish piece with half the lemongrass mixture. Pick up the two edges that run parallel to the longer sides of the fillet and fold over a few times. Now fold over the sides on the shorter sides of the fillets.

Place the fish parcels into a steamer basket set over a pot of gently boiling water. Steam for 15 minutes. To serve, transfer each fillet into a bowl and drizzle with the juices from the bottom of the parcel.

METHOD

Cut fish fillets into two evenly sized portions. Place each portion in the middle of a large baking paper sheet square.

Process all remaining ingredients in a mortar and pestle until a rough paste forms (you can use a small food processor or a jug and a stick blender for this step).

The Philosophy

According to Vietnamese philosophy, the health benefits of Vietnamese herbs are plentiful, and it’s often customary to use a whole bunch of different varieties in the one dish. Leung remembers a tour guide at an organic herb farm in Hoi An telling her that Ceylon spinach, okra and chrysanthemum help with arthritis. “He explained that’s why 75-year-old women in Vietnam can still bend down every day without joint problems,” she recollects.

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Of course, there are many other herbs that have medicinal benefits too – bitter herb, garlic chives and mustard leaves just to name a few. When combining herbs with chillies, spices and aromatics such as ginger, galangal and turmeric, which all boast their own health benefits, you have a potent phytochemical mix.

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Grow your own

It’s ideal to use fresh-picked herbs for the ultimate nutrient punch.

In Vietnam, you might be able to head straight to the grower, and farmers and wet markets also offer a good option. Because of the large expat community living in Australia, finding fresh Vietnamese herbs, especially in bigger cities, is relatively easy. Asian grocery stores and markets often have herbs by the bagful, and supermarkets stock quite a few varieties, although these are often found in the refrigerated section and it’s hard to pinpoint how long they’ve been there. “I advise growing your own herbs if possible,” Leonard-Stainton says. “This way you can ensure they are organically grown as well as having the added benefits of the herbs being extremely fresh when you consume them.

The fresher the herb, the higher the nutritional content.”

Although recipes are designed to be followed, experimenting with herb amounts can often be fun – the Vietnamese always seem to play around with quantities and you might discover a new favourite dish along the way. Try cooking using fresh herbs more often too.

“The modern diet in Australia is packed with processed foods, additives and sodium,” says Leung.

“So one way to reduce these in our diet is to start buying more fresh ingredients.” Leung recommends home cooks use spices and herbs as f lavours and seasoning to replace bottled sauces, excess sodium and MSG. “Be adventurous. Not only will the food taste better, but it will also be more nutrient dense and provide greater health benefits.”

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Vietnamese Savoury Rice Pancakes (Banh Xeo) Banh xeo is a rice flour and turmeric pancake filled with a mixture of bean shoots, cabbage and stir-fried vegetables. Tofu, cooked prawns or leftover diced pork roast can also be added to the mix. While the traditional recipe does not call for egg in the mixture, I find that adding an egg helps the mixture bind better and stops the pancakes from sticking to the pan and flaking. Vietnamese spring roll dipping sauce is available from most supermarkets and Asian grocers.

SERVES 2 (MAKES 4 PANCAKES) Ingredients • 1 cup white rice flour • ½ tsp sea salt flakes • ½ tsp fresh zested turmeric (or ½ tsp dried powder) • ½ cup coconut milk • 1 egg, free range • Coconut oil, for frying

For the filling • 1 cup mung bean sprouts • 1 cup shredded cabbage • 1 cup mixed stir fry vegetables

To serve • 4 large oak leaf lettuce leaves • A few sprigs Thai basil • Snow pea sprouts • Vietnamese spring roll dipping sauce • Lemon wedge, optional

METHOD

In a large jug, whisk together all pancake ingredients except for coconut oil. Set aside while you prepare the filing.

Blanch bean sprouts, cabbage and vegetables in boiling water. Mix to combine.

To make the pancakes, heat about a tablespoon coconut oil in a medium-sized pan (non-stick is best) over medium heat. Pour in a quarter of the batter and allow the pancake to cook until the edges are turning golden and there are air bubbles visible in the middle. Place a quarter of the filling on half of the pancake, cover the pan and steam for a minute. Fold over the empty pancake half and transfer the pancake to a serving dish. Repeat the process with the remaining batter and filling.

To serve, place each pancake on a lettuce leaf. Add Thai basil and sprouts. Drizzle with Vietnamese spring roll dipping sauce, roll up and enjoy.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

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Vietnamese Salad Baguette (Banh Mi) Banh mi is one of the most well-known Vietnamese dishes and many Vietnamese bakeries also sell these deliciously fresh salad rolls. Chicken or various pork cold cuts make for a tasty variation for meat eaters.

While butter, mayonnaise or pate is used to spread on the bun, I’ve omitted these here – feel free to add them if you wish. Also, instead of a white baguette, I’ve opted for a wholemeal variety. Fried shallots are available from some supermarkets and most Asian grocers.

Pasta Master Penne Allárrabbiata

(Pasta with Chilli and Tomato)

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Divella’s Penne Ziti Rigate and Salsa Arrabbiata to ensure the best and freshest result for your meal.

• • • • • • • • • •

500g Divella penne rigate pasta 1 clove garlic, lightly crushed 1 hot chilli pepper 150g bacon, chopped 1/2 glass dry white wine 1 x 500g tin of cherry tomatoes 1x 280g jar of Divella Salsa Arrabbiata 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt 30g grated pecorino romano cheese

METHOD Heat oil in a frying pan, season with crushed garlic clove and the whole chilli

SERVES 2 Ingredients

• 2 wholemeal baguette rolls • 1 small carrot, julienned • 1 tsp fish sauce (use ½ tsp salt for a vegan version) • 1 tsp lime juice • 1 baby cos lettuce, shredded • 1 Lebanese cucumber, sliced finely • ½ red onion, sliced finely, optional • 1 sprig spring onion, green parts only • A few single stalks fresh coriander • 1 red long chilli, sliced finely

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS

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For a chicken or pork version • 1 cup shredded chicken meat, or leftover finely sliced roast pork

To serve: • 2 tsp tamari • Sriracha sauce, optional • 2 tsp fried shallots

Method

Cut each roll open lengthways without splitting it in half.

Place julienned carrot in a small bowl, add fish sauce or salt and lime juice. Allow the mixture to pickle for a few minutes.

To make banh mi, layer lettuce, cucumber slices, onion if using, pickled carrot, spring onion and coriander sprigs in each roll. Top with meats, if using.

Drizzle tamari and Sriracha over the top, and sprinkle both rolls with fried shallots.

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pepper. When the garlic has browned, remove from the oil and add the bacon.

Let it flavour for a few seconds, then drench with the white wine and allow this to evaporate. Remove the chilli pepper and add the cherry tomatoes and the Divella Salsa Arrabbiata, stir well and cook for about 15 minutes, keeping on a moderate heat with the lid half-closed.

Put a large pan of salted water on heat.

When the water begins to boil, toss in the pasta and cook al dente. Drain, put back into the pan containing the sauce and toss for a minute.

Arrange in a warm serving dish and sprinkle with pecorino romano cheese, mix carefully and serve at once.