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OCTOBER 5, 2019, THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD
EAT WHERE FINLAND
FINDERS KEEPERS Food found in the wild, cooked on an open fire is a primordial high, writes Tatyana Leonov. In Lappish Finland, when it comes to berry and mushroom picking, it’s people versus reindeer. In fact, in Finland it is legal for people to pick wild fruits and vegetables all over the country, and to catch fish with a line and rod, too. The law is called ‘‘Everyman’s rights’’ or Jokamiehenoikeudet and it entitles the general public to roam the countryside foraging for food. Reindeer, too, wander through the wilderness, scrounging forest floors and nibbling on plants. Why does foraged food taste so good? Maybe food grown in the wilderness tastes better because it flourishes without any nasties; or perhaps it’s because it is usually eaten fresh or quickly preserved for the cooler months; or it could just be the way it’s prepared. ‘‘We like to fry mushrooms with cream and plenty of butter,’’ Niina Pietikainen, chief executive of Harriniva Hotels & Safaris, tells me over a dish of – you guessed it – fried creamy mushrooms.
‘‘And we love to pick lingonberries and make jam – with plenty of sugar, of course.’’ I’m staying at Harriniva Hotel for a few days, where winter activities revolve around huskies, reindeer and snowmobiles. After a few hours exploring in the fresh (and very crisp) air, hunger always calls. There’s reindeer stew and creamy mash topped with lingonberries served at the various on-site restaurants, but the foodie highlight here is dinner in a kota, a simple wooden hut in which Finns rest when out in the bush, with an open fire pit in the centre for cooking. Our guide and cook for tonight, Markus, is already inside the kota when we arrive and the fire is ablaze in preparation for our feast. Rieska, a traditional Finnish flatbread, is served first. Markus warms the bread (baked in an oven that morning) on the fire and tells us that his grandmother used to make the best rieska in his home town. ‘‘There’s an art to making it and
grandmother only ever used barley flour, which is the customary way,’’ he tells us. We enjoy this Lappish delicacy alongside wild porcini mushroom soup which is one-part mushrooms to three-part cream and consequently very delicious. The main dish is simple: reindeer hamburger patties topped with smoked cheese and a big dollop of lingonberryinfused mayonnaise. ‘‘This is a modern
tweak,’’ laughs Markus when I query the mayonnaise addition. Some of the hungrier people opt for the Finnish hamburger, with the reindeer patty served between two slices of rieska. We finish with more carbs: day-old cereal fried in butter with blueberries and cloudberries. It tastes a zillion times better than it sounds. A few days later in Rovaniemi I find myself eating reindeer most days. There’s
Tasmania Complete 1 2 D AY S H O B A R T R E T U R N
Let us take you on a journey of natural wonder and indulgence at the edge of the world. Discover the beauty of Tasmania’s pristine World Heritage-listed wilderness at Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, before learning of Australia’s rich and fascinating convict history and heritage at Port Arthur, all while savouring gourmet delights and local wines along the way.
Stanley and The Nut Smithton
Bridestowe Lavender Farm
1
The Tarkine Sheffield 2
Queenstown Strahan
2
1
St Helens Launceston
Cradle Mountain
Ross
Lake St Clair
2
Gordon River
Freycinet National Park Richmond
Russell Falls
All-inspiring. All taken care of. So you can Live Fully.
Coles Bay
3
HOBART Port Arthur
• Enjoy local produce while taking in the tranquil surrounds as you cruise through Franklin-Gordon Rivers National Park. • Enjoy a two night stay at Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, situated on the edge of Cradle MountainLake St Clair National Park.
Trip Code: RTH12
• Indulge in Northern Tasmania’s finest local drops and cuisine at Josef Chromy Wines. • At Bridestowe Lavender Estate, take a tour of the distillery and sample unique lavender infused fare.
Earn 1 Qantas Point per $1 spent on APT holidays~
12 Days from $5,695* pp twin share Save $600* per couple ‘APT LUXU RY TRAVEL’ CALL 1300 514 032 A PTO U R I N G .CO M . AU/ TAS M A N I A 20 20 O R S P E A K TO YO U R T R AV E L AG E N T
*Conditions apply. Offers are valid until 31 October 2019, unless sold out prior. SEE: aptouring.com.au/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Price is based on per person (pp), AUD, twin share. Prices are correct as at 26 September 2019. Prices based on RTH12: 5 May 2020. Prices are inclusive of the stated monetary savings. ALL OFFERS: Limited seats and offers on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A non-refundable deposit of $200 pp is due within 7 days of booking. ~QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER: You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer Member to earn Qantas Points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and Qantas Points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer Terms and Conditions, available at qantas.com/terms. Qantas Frequent Flyer members can earn 1 Qantas Point per AU$1 spent on all APT holidays. See aptouring.com.au/Qantas for full conditions. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation #A10825. APT-1187 1HERSA1 0028