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JULY 13, 2019, THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD
RESORT WHERE MAURITIUS
CULTURE CLUB The cultural landscape is all part of the experience at this boutique hotel, writes Tatyana Leonov. Soap-maker Nathalie carefully pours two mixtures (a dark activated charcoal derived from the outer shell of the coconut plant and a cream-coloured calcium bentonite clay) into oval moulds. As the mixtures blend – a little like pouring milk into a shot of coffee – intricate patterns begin to materialise, leaving a unique kaleidoscopic effect. ‘‘No two soaps are the same,’’ Nathalie explains, glancing up to ensure that I’m watching. I’m enthralled with the soap-making process. It seems so simple, yet when I try to follow Nathalie’s example, my patterns don’t look nearly as elaborate. While her creations are coiling works of art, mine are a rough collection of blobs. There’s an art to this that I just can’t perfect. ‘‘The soap has to stay in the mould for 24 hours, then it needs to sit and dry for a few more weeks,’’ Nathalie explains. ‘‘Many soaps you get elsewhere are too young – they need time to dry properly.’’ The final step is to punch a small hole and loop a delicate rope through each one so the soap won’t fall on the shower floor. Genius! The soaps I’ve watched Nathalie create are a small batch of the thousands she will make this year for SALT of Palmar on Mauritius’ east coast. Any guest staying at the resort can partake in the same experience. After years of planning and preparation, SALT opened to high acclaim last November. It has all the features that are expected of a luxury boutique hotel: seafront location, stunning pool, beautifully executed meals made from predominantly local produce, a tranquil spa which houses 1HERSA1 0034
Clockwise from main: The entrance at SALT of Palmar in Mauritius; the spa has a salttherapy room; jams; Trou d’Eau Douce cold-cut octopus; the rooftop is a fine cocktail spot.
the island’s first salt-therapy room. These attributes, however, are not what embody the brand’s core concept. SALT is about truly experiencing and appreciating the culture of the area. One of the first things I learn is that crafting soap from scratch is a little like creating handmade chocolate. Guests can also learn the handiwork of traditional Mauritian basket weaving with Reotee, the weaver responsible for the beach baskets found in each of the rooms. I
travel to her home with a guide and it’s here that I understand the significance of the huge pandanus leaves I noticed neatly laid out all over the driveway upon my arrival. Reotee weaves bags out of pandanus leaves and recycled plastic (SALT of Palmar guests are gifted with the recyclable plastic version). Hundreds of her bags in eyepopping colours are on display at her home, which doubles as her shopfront. Apart from involving the locals who help
shape the resort, SALT also offers its onsite team members (they don’t like to call them staff) an opportunity to share their skills with guests. There’s Sharonne, who teaches Brazilian ju-jitsu, Karishma is crochet master and Denis can show guests how to cultivate taro. The skills-swap arrangement isn’t just one-sided: talented guests, who are so inclined, are encouraged to share their expertise with staff and locals. The insider experiences are certainly highlights, as are the opportunities to learn a new skill alongside a new friend. Most SALT guests, however, are also keen to head out and explore without a chaperone – which is exactly what those involved in the brand desire. ‘‘We don’t want to shadow guests. We provide a SALT guidebook with content pulled together by locals, and a newspaper via the hotel app,’’ says Nitesh Pandey, senior vice-president of the SALT brand. ‘‘Our guests appreciate tips on where to go, as many of them want to go out on their own and find that restaurant, bar or beach.’’ It takes me some time to really accept and appreciate this, as it is not the usual modus operandi for resorts – that is, encouraging guests to explore the island, dine out and shop at local stores off site. ‘‘We want our guests to use the hotel as a base camp,’’ Pandey explains. ‘‘So you don’t want guests to hang out at the resort?’’ I query, still struggling with the concept. ‘‘No,’’ Pandey answers with gusto. ‘‘Each SALT resort will be about exploring