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Letter from the Editor This year has been full of pandemic-
away with buffets, all staff wear masks,
This pandemic has affected so many
related cliches such as “unprecedented
rooms and common areas are cleaned
aspects of our lives. We wanted to
times,” “new normal,” “pandemic
more frequently, there is contactless
dedicate this issue to the homes
fatigue,” the list goes on. I roll my eyes
handover for private rental homes, and
away from home that provide us with
when another ad flits past my screen
the list goes on. As I started to learn
an escape from city stresses, work,
beginning with the phrase “Now more
to travel within the framework of the
polluted air, and now, pandemic
than ever…” However, as much as
pandemic, there were aspects of travel
fatigue. As always, we encourage you
these are cliches, there is something
I began to appreciate in a new light.
to get out and experience all that local
symbolic in their use. A signifier of a
In July of 2020, my first trip out of
travel has to offer in a way that makes
momentous occasion in which we came
the city since the pandemic started, I
you feel safe and secure. In the coming
together and endured (hopefully) one
visited Nanyuki where I was maskless
pages, you will find beautiful homes
of the most difficult periods in our
for hours enjoying deep breaths of
whether you are interested in beach
lives. As Psychology Today states in a
the crisp clean mountainous air. In
or bush travel, things to do in Kilifi,
recent issue, “Though often overused,
September of 2020, the lack of traffic
conservation efforts in the Mara, and
clichés serve as guides to life that
in the Maasai Mara revitalized its
more.
reflect assumptions deeply embedded in
ecosystem: some days our safari vehicle
popular culture".
was the only car seen for miles. In
Signature goes here:
We hope you feel inspired.
October of 2020, business was picking My saving grace through the pandemic
up in Lamu, predominantly with local
has been the ability to travel locally
travellers. In March of 2021, the
and rediscover all that Kenya has to
white beaches in Watamu felt private
offer. The travel and tourism industry
by comparison to previous years. No
Soni Adriance
was hit particularly hard and had to
matter where I went, the individuals
Editor
quickly adapt to the new rules and
within the industry were always happy
regulations: many hotels have done
to host and accommodate travellers.
@soni.side.up
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Contents 20. Featured Properties Get away to the Kenyan coast and bush with these unique stays
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Cover Photo Lazy Days, by Andras Porffy
Contents Photo by Brian Siambi @brian.siambi
Back Cover by Daniel Msirikale @that_tanzanianguy
11. News and Events What every Nomad needs to know
12. Top Shots Three photographers beautifully capture the relationship between humans and our environment
30. Farm Life A unique farm and treehouse experience on 500 acres a mere hour and a half drive outside of Nairobi
32. The Safari Series The Nomad team heads to Lolldaiga to experience The Safari Series and Land Rover cars in all their glory
36. Under The Baobab Discover a world-class holiday home on Diani beach
38. Cheetah Connection Lions are wildly reputed to be the only truly social big cat, but you'd be forgiven for questioning the traditional wisdom of this sentiment after observing cheetahs in the field
44. What I Pack Self-proclaimed visual orator, TJ (aka The Mentalyst), shares what he packs in his bag for a trip to the coast
NOMAD Issue 33 · September 2021 · PUBLISHED BY PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DIRECTORS Ben Peterson, Jan Van der Does de Willebois, Mikul Shah. CEO Mark Willms. PURPLE ELEPHANT VENTURES Marco Saio, Anthony van Ryswyck, Eva Kigo, Lizzie Wright. EDITOR Soni Adriance DESIGN Karan Khalsa HEAD OF SALES Vanessa Wanjiku. DIRECTOR OF NTC Jodi York BOOKINGS MANAGER Carol Soi OPERATIONS Caroline Rubiro. SALES ENQUIRIES 0716 497 095 EMAIL editor@nomad.africa NomadAfricaTravel
@NomadAfricaTravel
@NomadAfrica_
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NEWS
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KTB & TikTok On August 24th 2021 the Kenya Tourism Board
the important role TikTok plays in raising destination
announced a partnership with the short-form video
Kenya’s brand visibility around the globe... Together
platform TikTok. This partnership is part of a longer
with TikTok we can engage the world with content and
term strategy to raise International tourism appeal
experiences from any part of the country and drive more
and awareness around conservation. Dr. Betty Radier,
awareness of our country and wildlife, especially during
CEO of Kenya Tourism Board said, "We recognise
this time when travel is limited".
Electric Safari Emboo River in the Maasai Mara has the first full fleet of Electric Safari Vehicles in East Africa. As of early 2021, Opibus in Nairobi converted Emboo River's 10 Land Cruisers from the 1990's from diesel to fully Electric Vehicles. Not only does this cut carbon dioxide emission, it also allows for a quieter, less intrusive safari experience.
White Rhino Embryo In late July Kenyan authorities and conservation partners announced that three additional White Rhino embryos were successfully created bringing the total produced to 12. Immediately after the oocyte retrieval, 17 eggs were airlifted to Avantea laboratory in Italy to be fertilised and cyro-preserved. This is a milestone in the effort to retain this extant species of rhino.
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Talisa Lanoe @talisalanoe Ibrahim & Camel I met Ibrahim a few days earlier while walking on Diani beach. We got to talking and he agreed to let me take some images one morning as he washed his camels in the water, a task he did daily to prepare for the day ahead. Standing behind the lens you could just tell there was a beautiful connection between Ibrahim and his camels, this image is a glimpse into that friendship. Canon 5D Mark IV Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L 1/500th sec shutter speed,
ISO 100, f2.8, 24mm
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India Bulkeley @indiabulkeley indiabulkeley.com I took this photo of zebras and wildebeests crossing the Sand River during the Great Migration. When photographing, I always look for new ways to portray familiar scenes. Slow shutter speeds enable me to create a unique sense of motion in many of my images. My aim here was to capture the feeling of chaos of the migration.
Nikon D5 Sigma 150-600mm 1/13th sec shutter speed ISO 500, f29
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Karan Khalsa @karankhalsa Counting Sheep. It was a dusty afternoon in Lolldaiga Hills as Elijah ushered us in the Safari Series' custom 90 Defender for a scenic game drive. As we approached a hill, not knowing what to expect on the other side, a flock of well-kept sheep blocked the road ahead making the way impassable. Elijah switched the car off and took his phone out, it was the first time I'd seen him do this during our drive. I took my camera out and got the shot. Nikon D850 NIKKOR 24-70mm f2.8 1/2,500th sec shutter speed ISO 250, f2.8
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A Slice Of Bali In Kenya
Bulloch House BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
This unique Swahili house is located on
a book from the house library filled
the pristine white sands of Bofa beach,
with books for all ages and occasions.
Kilifi. Built entirely out of local materials
Also in this living/dining space is a
- makuti thatch, coral blocks, and Lamu
tastefully designed bar perfect for fixing
floors, it boasts outstanding architectural
yourself sundowner drink to enjoy the
and interior design. The white walls are
magnificent sunset. The lush garden
accented with magnificent cedar and
and open plan living/dining area make
local neem giving this home a rustic,
Bulloch House ideal for those who are
tropical feel. Adding to the effect is the
interested in hosting events here. This
lush tropical garden home to various
space can easily be transformed to host
species birds and flora.
up to 150 people with additional catering services to compliment the in-house
The focal point of this home is the open
services.
plan living/dining area which overlooks the free form beach edge pool to
During your stay, the home is self
the sea. This is where you'll happily
catered and fully staffed. Dominic, the
spend the majority of your time in this
friendly head chef at the house also
home, wiling away the hours reading
manages all other household activities.
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Upon your request, Dominic can assist
apartment with a rooftop terrace view
space structure is built from teak from
with menu ideas, kitchen supplies, and
of the ocean. The double bedroom
Java, Indonesia. The compound is filled
provide you with delicious meals day and
also has a sitting room entrance with a
with indigenous and exotic plants with
night.
TV. Downstairs in the north wing of the
Balinese statues and furniture to add
house are two double bedrooms with
to the Balinese effect. Bali Bofa can
Bulloch House comfortably sleeps 10
views of the pool and garden. Upstairs,
be booked together or separately from
adults in 5 ensuite bedrooms. Each room
is the final double bedroom with a
Bulloch House as it is completely self
has it's own secluded, self-contained
lounging area.
contained. The house has its own fully
experience. The south wing of the house
equipped kitchen for self catered meals
has a master bedroom with a bathroom
Situated on it's own private compound
as well as an outhouse block with a
that opens to a private walled downstairs
within the Bulloch House property is
shower, wash area, and compost toilet.
garden with a gazebo facing the ocean.
Little Bali Bofa, a traditional Limasan
The beach is a simple two minute walk
Upstairs on the south wing is a small
hut from Java. This traditional single
from this compound.
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Beachfront Holiday Homes Photo by Zanelle Wanja
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Malindi 10 Guests
10 Bedrooms
Vipingo
10 Bathrooms
20 Guests
10 Bedrooms
10 Bathrooms
Cozy Point Homes
Cardamom House
The small boutique hotel blends the culture and
Cardamom House is an elegant Swahili-influenced
traditions of Malindi where it draws inspiration for
gem perched on a coral outcrop that overlooks
the choice of colours, materials, furnishings and
its private beach cove. The stunning Cardamom
decorations. The owners are available to assist with
House is made up of four villas consisting of
requests and potentially surprise you with excursion
Manda Toto, Lulu, The Tower and Shela. These
ideas resulting from 20 years of experience in Kenya.
villas can be rented all together or separately as
Five large rooms are ideal for those looking for an
rates are on a per person basis. Each villa has its
exclusive getaway.
own private ensuite bedroom.
Lamu
Kilamawingu House
10 Guests
5 Bedrooms
5 Bathrooms
Kilamawingu is an exceptionally charming, spacious, and
facing out over the Manda channel. Particularly special is
beautifully-furnished family house with a swimming pool
the corner master bedroom, with windows facing out on two
close to the seafront in Shela village. The home has its own
sides, catching the opposing breezes.
private garden and balconies designed by an Italian architect
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Diani 10 Guests
5 Bedrooms
Malindi
5 Bathrooms
12 Guests
4 Bedrooms
3 Bathrooms
Dzumbe
Neem House
Dzumbe, part of Four Twenty South, has two
This beautiful Swahili architectural house is
double and two twin rooms, all ensuite, with both
surrounded by numerous large neem, palm, and fig
internal and external access and an ensuite double
trees and situated on a coral outcrop catching the
annex with its own entrance, sleeping 10 people in
ocean breeze. The house has an experienced chef
total. Stylishly decorated with eclectic antiques and
who produces classic Swahili dishes, refreshing
original art works from famous Kenyan artists, this
salads and freshly baked bread. The chef sources
is a perfect house for a family reunion or a group of
only the freshest ingredients from the market and
friends.
works closely with local fisherman.
Lamu
Full Moon House
6 Guests
3 Bedrooms
3 Bathrooms
Standing at the end of a shell-strewn shoreline, this three-
one bedroom into a twin. With a private pool and beach
bedroom vacation rental is perfect for island living. The
access, this home is ideal for family vacations. All amenities
house has three double rooms, with the option of turning
are included with this home.
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Swahili-Influenced Gem Cardamom House
Cardamom House is an elegant Swahili-
reading a good book as the butler
bedroom that can be a twin or double
influenced gem located in the marine
prepares your favourite wine from the
bedroom with its own ensuite. The
conservation area of Kuruwitu. The
tasting you enjoyed earlier that day in
Tower is a beautiful pink tower with
house is made up of four villas: Manda
the wine cellar. Begin your evening with
three levels: each level is complete with
Toto, Lulu, The Tower, and Shela. Each
a sundowner on the rooftop terrace
its own bedroom and private bathroom
villa has its own private ensuite bedroom
of The Tower which receives beautiful
accommodating six people total. The
and can be rented separately or together
sunset views. Later, enjoy delicious fresh
Tower has a rooftop terrace with the
as rates are on a per person basis.
seafood meals prepared by the talented
most incredible sunset views. Villa
chef on the patio underneath the stars.
Shela has two floors, each with its own
If you’re interested in seeing marine life
Cardamom House sleeps 20 comfortably.
bedroom, accomodating a total of four
in the shallow pools when the tide is
Manda Toto is the main villa which
people.
out, the house has direct access to the
sleeps eight in two private rooms and
white sandy beaches and kaleidoscope
two penthouse suites. This villa also
This home is ideal for families looking
blue, green waters of the Indian Ocean.
has entertainment space, a dining room,
to relax and unwind by the beach or for
Or, spend your time sitting by the pool
and a bar. Villa Lulu has a single level
groups of friends looking for a getaway.
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BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
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Places To Stay Off The Beaten Path
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Photo by @redcharlie1
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Maasai Mara 10 Guests
5 Bedrooms
5 Bathrooms
Maasai Mara 2 Guests
1 Bedroom
1 Bathroom
Cottar’s Bush Villa
Naboisho House
The Bush Villa provides a luxury private stay option
In the heart of the Mara Naboisho Conservancy is
for up to 12 guests and comes complete with its own
Naboisho, a stylish haven with nine elegant tents,
private 25 meter swimming pool. For those that
offering a level of safari solitude almost unheard of so
want absolute privacy in the Maasai Mara, combined
close to the Maasai Mara. Fully catered (three delicious
with dedicated and discrete staff, award-winning
meals and all refreshments included), morning and
guides, and an abundance of wildlife, Cottar’s Bush
afternoon game drives, picnics and house drinks
Villa offers the only real private luxury home in the
included. Each spacious canvas safari tent has its own
Maasai Mara.
en suite bathroom and private veranda.
Nanyuki
Mukima House
16 Guests
9 Bedrooms
9 Bathrooms
At the foothills of Mt. Kenya this double storey house is
room, dining room, a generous entrance hall and an upstairs
set in vivid tropical flower beds with expansive lawns. The
gallery. This accommodation is fully serviced and the food is
house has eight ensuite bedrooms, a games room, a large
local and homegrown.
kitchen with a store, laundry room, cloakroom, drawing
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Mt. Kenya 10 Guests
5 Bedrooms
5 Bathrooms
PR OPER TIE S
Maasai Mara 6 Guests
3 Bedrooms
3 Bathrooms
Ndongoro Log Cabin
Mara House
The self catering log cabin nestled within a
The Mara Bush Houses are ideal for those who
UNESCO World Heritage site sleeps eight in four
want the freedom to set the pace of their safari
very comfortable bedrooms with an additional two
escape. Mara House is a fully staffed house
in a bunk room. It has spacious accommodation
featuring three spacious ensuite bedrooms, perfect
including a sitting room and dining room with an
for three couples or a group of friends. Included in
open fire and a fully equipped kitchen opening to a
the rate is full board catering and refreshments,
large veranda overlooking the glade and river.
guided morning and evening game drives, bush picnics and transfers to Mara North airstrip.
Aberdares
Cedar Retreat
3 Guests
1 Bedroom
1 Bathroom
Cedar Retreat is in the Northern Moorlands of Aberdare
each accommodating two people, there are all the creature
National Park and is the only wildlife adventure lodge in
comforts you would need. There are 4 cabins with double
the Northern part of the famed park. In the six log cabins,
beds, and two cabins with twin beds.
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Farm Life Eco Farmhouse & Eco Treehouse BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
There's seldom a road trip in Nairobi that doesn't end with one person marveling why it doesn't happen more often. An easy hour and a half to Makuyu can result in fresh air, views of lush forest, and peaceful quiet. On 500 acres of land in Makuyu lies an expansive fruit farm, showing off her many orange, mango, dragon and jackfruit trees. But it doesn't end there. Carefully hidden amidst the farm lies two unique properties: Eco Farmhouse and Eco Treehouse. Eco Farmhouse is a charming original 1960's farmhouse which has recently been renovated and modernised. Natural light streams in through the large windows in the common area during the day where the kitchen island overlooks the back patio and garden. Once in a while, you may lock eyes
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with one of the six semi-domesticated ostriches through the window, they roam the compound and farm freely and are often found relaxing on the Farmhouse patio. The self catered house sleeps eight (six adults and two children) in four ensuite rooms comfortably. There are two bedrooms off of the common area, one with a queen bed and the other with a triple. Across the main house in an adjacent room is the "honeymoon suite" with a queen bed and additional privacy, ideal for a couple. A stone's throw away nestled in the mangroves of the farm and made from a reclaimed wood cabin is Eco Treehouse. Above the treeline, on the expansive balcony you get 180 views of Mt. Kenya and the Aberdere range on a clear day. The cozy Treehouse has
two ensuite rooms with double beds. The Treehouse is self-contained with an open plan kitchenette and living area for unobstructed views and can be rented together, or separate from the Farmhouse. A spacious deck is the life of the treehouse as it gives you unmatched views of the farm by day, and a star struck night sky. Both properties are an escape from the city life. Without WiFi, you're encouraged to explore the farm (you're welcome to pick fresh fruit and vegetables for your meals), fish at the dam, or hike and bike around the property. The farm tours make this visit all the more worthwhile. Exotic fruits hanging within reach, bees buzzing everywhere, hundreds of species of insects, beautiful
flowers waiting to bear fruit. There is plenty to explore, taste, and discover! As much as you are encouraged to unplug and unwind, there is strong cell service on the property if need be. The property is ideally situated within easy reach to outdoor adventures such as white water rafting in Sagana, Castle Forest Lodge, Chania Falls, and Ragati Forest. Eco Farmhouse and Eco Treehouse are a truly unique escape from city life that are within reach. A great experience for a group of friends or for a family looking to get away and disconnect. A visit to this property will have you feeling like you can, and will, do this more often.
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The dusty scrubland of Lolldaiga
for “World Peace” were swapped for
Churchill to James Bond, Idris Elba
paints a picture of untouched quiet.
engine revs and incline challenges.
and Marilyn Monroe. It's a car that
50,000 acres of rolling hills and
has fairly attained cult status, served
varying vegetation. We were there
The Land Rover has had a prolific
the British military for years and does
on a mission quite literally driven by
and colourful history over seven
what it says on the tin. Nothing more,
the opportunity to meet classic car
decades. Shortly after World War II,
nothing less. Here in the Kenyan bush
aficionado (to put it lightly), Ed, his
the Rover car company struggled to
however, the Defender has found a real
partner in crime, Moon and the most
sell their luxury cars in Britain and
sense of belonging under the tutelage
adorable sidekick one could ever have,
Europe. They decided to create a work-
of challenging terrain and impossibly
their daughter Romily.
horse that fulfilled the needs of the
rugged landscapes.
agricultural industry and farmers in A while back, Land Rover asked
Britain and in 1948, the Land Rover
For Land Rover owners and collectors,
the Nomad team to test drive the
Series 1 was born. In 73 years, the
this utilitarian vehicle is a source
brand new Land Rover Defender
car has gone through 6 iterations
of countless hours and shillings of
and of course we decided to put it
including the Series II, Series III,
conversation, research and investment.
through the paces alongside Ed’s
Land Rover 90 & 110, the Defender
While that sounds like an apt
classic Land Rovers to see how they
in 1990 and the Defender reboot in
description of a hobby, one would
fared in comparison to one another.
2020. It also had its fair share of
turn up our nose at such a label. It's
A modelling contest of sorts where
famous superfans and photobombers,
undoubtedly a way of life rooted in an
mundane responses around the desire
from Queen Elizabeth and Winston
ethos of simplicity, perseverance and
The Safari Series By Ami Doshi Shah
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adventure. Ed and Moon’s hospitality
to congregate in front of the mess
While some guests might come here
endeavour, The Safari Series is in the
tent), to cars, to identity politics. In an
specifically to drive the Series I,
same vein, it is much more than just a
insightful conversation with Ed and
we’re also about walking, fly camping,
camp. It’s an opportunity to immerse
Moon one afternoon, Ed said that the
sleeping under the stars and we wanted
yourself in the stunning wilds of
“Land Rovers are just one aspect to
to be able to offer people the chance
Laikipia, from the camp itself (with
the experience of The Safari Series.”
to do that without an impossible price
laudable eco-credentials, might I add),
Moon mentioned, “When we started
tag. Instead of champagne sundowners,
to the chance to self-drive the seven
the camp, we had 2 main ethoses: the
we’ll just do some beers on top of the
Land Rovers in their ‘stable’, and
first being that it had to be about fun,
Baboon Cliff rocks. When we do a fly
for guests to create their own safari
adventure, and family and secondly it
camp, it's just a simple dinner cooked
experience in this iconic car.
had to be affordable.” Admittedly, they
on top of an open fire and sleeping
have filled a massive gap in the market
under the stars. Over time, safaris
From the moment our team arrived
with both these pillars particularly in
have become this bourgeois activity
at the camp, we were taken in by the
the domestic tourism market where
that has crossed the horizon of what
couples’ innate passion and knowledge
accommodation in Laikipia can come
is accessible to the majority of people.
on a plethora of topics, ranging from
with an eye-watering price. For the
But what a safari is actually about is
birds (Ed insisted that all leftovers
couple, the Land Rover became a
inspiring people to really connect with
from our meals be put on the bird
symbol of something greater. For Ed,
the natural world and learning and
feeding platform to coax the 350+
“The Land Rover is a working man's
exploring what is around you.”
bird species that call Laikipia home
car...a car for anyone and everyone.
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It was hard not to be in awe of this
white storks floating in the distance.
so. The newest sequel to the cultural
couple who had taken their experience,
The Kenyan version of “Swan Lake”. It
icon is more sinew-y and has curves
savings and turned their passion
was all beyond memorable and may I
in unexpected places. Sharp edges and
into a hospitality business by sheer
say… fun.
distinct planes mark the design ethos of Land Rover’s past; utility through
willpower, vision and purpose. We were We successfully put the cars through
and through. But we were asked to
their paces. The Series I pickup
test the power, endurance, reliability
Over 4 days, the couple joined us with
had some stops and starts with a
and comfort of the new Defender
their Series I, Series II, Defender 110
few nudges from the nose end of
and it was indulgently delivered.
alongside the newest Defender racing
the classic Defender 110. Of course,
Sometimes an adventure is about the
alongside disused dams, climbing
the brand spanking new Defender
joy in encountering and resolving the
exposed cliff rock faces, and careening
performed exceptionally well despite
unexpected. A conversation, a meal, a
along morram roads where clouds of
the naysayers. Between Nairobi and
different perspective, a broken down
pale orange dust fluttered like a halo
Laikipia, at every stop, onlookers were
car, an experience like no other. On
and settled on the skin like chalk.
more than happy to indulge their
that, The Safari Series Team also
We raced alongside giraffes and had
opinion on the shiny upgrade to this
wholeheartedly delivered.
sundowners around a campfire with
cultural mainstay, understandably
unequivocally sold.
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Under The Baobab Lazy Days BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
What’s not to love about Diani
Honoured to have been hosted by
The Lazy Days grounds offer complete
beach? The sand remains white as
the new management team - Luca
privacy from any neighbours, and has
snow, the water turquoise blue, the
and Giulia, they made my stay extra
private beach access walkway that
seafood abundant and fresh, and
special introducing me to the amenities
allows you to be steps from the beach.
the environment and experience
offered at their establishment. As
Every morning I would walk to the
breathtaking. Having returned to Diani
soon as I arrived, I was blown away.
beach for a morning dip in the ocean
Beach numerous times over the years,
This completely refurbished colonial-
before returning for my morning coffee
Diani still offers all the essential
style house is on an exclusive private
under expansive veranda that runs
ingredients for replenishing tired
property centred around the most
across the entirety of the house.
minds and bodies. On my latest trip, I
iconic baobad tree I have ever seen.
wanted to find that “hidden gem” that
The well-designed home has two
The most memorable part at Lazy Days
separated my trip from all the others.
identical wings, perfect for a group of
was the feeling of serenity, privacy, and
I definitely found it at Lazy Days –
friends, or a few families to stay. I was
simple indulgence. You can happily
undoubtedly the most fascinating,
truly transported to another world away
enjoy a cocktail by the quietly situated
enchanting, and world-class holiday
from the hustle and bustle of Nairobi
pool, escape to the well- equipped gym
home to hit the Kenyan coast.
– definitely a check mark on my bucket
or spa, and then find yourself on an
list of extraordinary places to relax and
evening stroll on the beach.
enjoy.
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You also don’t just eat meals when
launched fine dining restaurant in a
Diani is calling, and Lazy Days is
staying at Lazy Days, you have a
private wine cellar. Of course, there
beckoning you to enjoy something
“culinary experience” at world-class
was always the option to remain at
extraordinary – something beyond
food establishments, Nomad Beach
Lazy Days and be dined by a private
belief.
Bar and Grill or Induldge – the newly
chef under the baobab tree and stars.
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Cheetah Connections
Lions are widely reputed to be the only truly social big cat, but you’d be forgiven for questioning the traditional wisdom of this sentiment after observing cheetahs in the field for any length of time, writes Mark Smeltz Three days into my latest safari in
figures of five individual cheetahs.
with the
Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve,
Cat rested upon cat; tails flicked and
Fast Five,
I’d already enjoyed quite a show. I
ears twitched; spots mingled together
I certainly
scored front-row seats to a sparring
to weave a contiguous tapestry of
developed
match between two Thomson’s gazelles
tawny fur. Although they weren’t
doubts of my own.
clashing over territory, watched as a
exactly living up to their reputation—
I watched as one cheetah or another
clan of hyenas played keep-away with
in fact, they were reclined in various
periodically roused itself, only to
a day-old wildebeest kill, and marveled
states of repose ranging from the
collapse into sleep next to another
as a lilac-breasted roller landed
simply indolent to the unequivocally
member of the coalition. The cats were
amongst a cluster termites and feasted
comatose—there was no doubt about it:
seeking physical contact with each
to its heart’s content.
these cheetahs represented the Mara’s
other: an unmistakable hallmark of
famous Fast Five coalition.
social bonding. But why has this social
But the Mara always delivers in
behavior of the cheetah gone under-
spades, and it had another surprise in
Lions are widely reputed to be the
store. As the sun reached its zenith,
only truly social big cat, but you’d be
we discovered a sprawl of golden-
forgiven for questioning the traditional
Cheetahs are born into litters of about
coated forms lying prone under the
wisdom of this sentiment after
four cubs, which are raised by their
boughs of a blackwood. These shapes
observing cheetahs in the field for any
mother. They learn to feed and hunt
soon resolved into the unmistakable
length of time. Spending the afternoon
until reaching maturity after about
reported?
C O N S E R VA T I O N
15 months. Then females begin a
project in 2011 and quickly became
prey, mitigating internal conflict,
solitary lifestyle, until they have their
one of the foremost experts on Kenya’s
and directing movement across their
own offspring. But while males may
fastest cats, establishing an exhaustive
territory. This form of leadership
also strike out to pursue the lives of
cheetah identification database and
is specific to mixed coalitions;
lone hunters, sometimes they stick
gathering data to ensure the species’
individual cats hold equal status in
together. And that’s where things get
survival. Naturally, she was first on my
groups comprised entirely of siblings.
complicated.
list when I needed help understanding
But no matter who’s in charge, each
cheetah coalitions like the Fast Five.
cheetah benefits from being part of the
“Cheetah sociality is a very interesting
coalition.
and complex topic,” says Dr. Elena
Chelysheva published her latest
Chelysheva, project manager of the
findings about these nuanced social
The most readily apparent advantage
Mara-Meru Cheetah Project. This
relationships in Swara, a quarterly
of male coalitions pertains to hunting.
research organization studies cheetah
magazine printed by the East African
East African cheetahs are known to
populations in the Maasai Mara
Wildlife Society. “I actually dedicated
favor Thomson’s gazelle; this small
my article to the coalition of five
antelope can be easily managed by
males,” Chelysheva remarks. The
most adults. But its diminutive size
Fast Five—or Tano Bora, as they’re
means that it doesn’t provide much
locally known—have clearly made
food. That’s why cheetahs often fill out
an impression on her. Distilling
their diets with animals like hares and
years of data collection, she shows
warthogs. But you shouldn’t expect to
how the coalition is led by two
see a lone cheetah attempt a big-ticket
ecosystem and Meru Conservation Area. Chelysheva formed the
unrelated males which share the responsibilities of selecting
meal like a zebra or adult wildebeest on its own: for that, even the sturdiest of these cats needs a little help. “From my observations, males in coalitions do go after larger prey than single cheetahs or even mothers with single cubs,” explains Dr. Anne Hilborn. Hilborn earned her PhD studying cheetahs in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park with the Serengeti Cheetah Project. Her research involved recording hunting behavior, prey selection, and competition with other predators. “Especially when the wildebeest migration is occurring,” she says, “coalitions of two to three males will bring down large calves of yearling
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C O N S E R VA T I O N
wildebeest frequently.” When large
unrelated males joining up to form a
more cubs, we still don’t know,” she
prey isn’t available, coalitions may
coalition.” These smaller groups may
cautions. More research is needed to
split up into smaller groups to make
not enjoy as many hunting advantages,
answer these and other questions, like
multiple kills. This is a great strategy
but they do reap other rewards by
why some males join coalitions and
for supergroups like the Fast Five, but
functioning as part of a team.
others don’t. It’s fortunate that groups
not all coalitions are created equally.
like the Fast Five remain accessible to Groups of cheetahs can remain more
researchers, exhibiting normal behavior
“During the time I worked in the
fully aware of their surroundings,
while under continuous observation.
Serengeti,” Hilborn recalls, “all of the
helping each other to stay alert for
coalitions we tracked were two to three
other potentially dangerous predators.
While the Fast Five is the most well-
individuals.” Larger-sized groups may
An injured cheetah can also rely on
known cheetah coalition today, there
be attributable to the availability of
its coalition to obtain prey while it
are other examples of cooperation
local resources or the number of male
recovers. Chelysheva’s research in the
among these big cats. Social media has
siblings in a litter. “What we often saw
Mara has even shown that cheetah
made it possible for anyone to track
in the Serengeti are
coalitions can
two single
access
their favorite cheetahs, keeping up-todate with online posts from the field. “There are several historical male coalitions who were famous within the Cheetah Project,” Hilborn says, “but at the time we didn’t have a way to share their stories with wide audiences.” Hilborn regrets that she couldn’t relate the sagas of former coalitions like Richard and Armitage or Bradley and Cooper.
preferential territory, choosing favorable terrain for hunting or areas more densely populated with prey. With strength in numbers, a coalition can also reduce competition from other
But there’s a risk in following wild animals too closely. “Getting emotionally attached to male coalitions is tough,” she explains. “They don’t live very long and can disappear
cheetahs.
or die at any time. It can be tricky
But Hilborn advises that holding
invested emotionally with your study
more territory can’t be used as the sole benchmark of success. “Whether holding a territory leads to fathering
to build an audience online who is animals, and then have to tell them that the individual they care about has disappeared.” So whether a large coalition like the Fast Five represents an enduring feature of the ecosystem or (more likely) a momentary flash in the pan, we should appreciate these manifestations of cheetah behavior while they last. They can teach us a lot about the species’ long-term prospects for survival—not to mention something essential about the nature of life itself in the African bush.
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Home Away From Home The best beach holidays leave you romanticizing a life by the ocean; the salty ocean air volumizes your hair in ways Pantene could never formulate, your skin glows in the late afternoon sun, your kids no longer spend their days in front of screens but instead learn by exploring the natural habitat around you. the natural habitat around you. Most of all, you imagine what home would feel like: mornings with fresh tropical fruit, coffee and tea set on the patio overlooking the ocean, lunch and dinner determined by the fisherman’s catch of the day, daily walks on the secluded beach, the creature comforts of home in an exotic environment. Chingwede House turns this wishful thinking into a
reality. Set on a cliff 40 feet above the sweeping white sand of Msambweni beach sits the beautiful Chingwede House. From this vantage point, you can watch the fishermen's dhows silently come in to dock at sunrise. The house is surrounded by doum palms and a forest of indigenous trees assuring your privacy during your stay. Chingwede sleeps 8 guests and is therefore ideal for families or a group of friends looking for a private escape. The house has plenty of activities to enjoy, from visiting Funzi Island and exploring the sandbar to diving in Shimoni or snorkeling in Kisite Marine Park.
Chingwede House BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
Chingwede House comes fully staffed; Chef Hassan is known to create some of the best Swahili dishes with local delicacies, his fish and seafood repertoire is extensive.Hamisi, the Maitre’d, ensures everything runs smoothly at all times. Your stay at Chingwede House will remind you of the rural coastal experience 30 years ago. The environs are untouched and the beaches relatively empty. Standing at the pool's edge, taking in the 180 degree views of the ocean, listening to the bird life and the coconut palms blowing in the wind, imagining a life in Msambweni suddenly doesn’t feel so far from reach.
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Heavenly Stay By Ben Peterson
Heavenly House
before finally leading to the beach. The front-tier of the pool is actually in the living room - a shallow shady section where kids can be easily watched by As we unloaded our most precious (and
their more lounge-inclined parents.
hungry) cargo, it became evident that this is no normal beach house. Huge
Our introductory tour continued through
There are no signs to Heavenly House.
front doors open up to a grand central
a ground floor nautical-themed children’s
Nothing to indicate that we took the
staircase. A tasteful waterfall runs
room with two sets of bunk beds, a
right turnoff onto the right dirt path. At
behind the stairs, gently gliding into
common-area bathroom with an outdoor
the next junction we have no idea if we
two elegant pools on either side of the
shower, a stand-alone studio and a long
should go left or right. Or left or right
entrance.
dining room running directly into the living room/pool-watching area.
again. Just as we start to think we’ve made a terrible mistake and we’ll be lost
Walking around the staircase, an open
for hours with hungry children screaming
living room empties directly into a three-
Upstairs we were led through a huge
for food - boom - we found paradise.
tier pool looking over a lush garden
master bedroom with a veranda
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overlooking the Indian Ocean, three
were the sporadic demands of our two-
knee deep, striding on shell-less sand
ample additional bedrooms with ensuite
year old and my daily self-flagellating jog
the entire way. My toddler daughter and I
bathrooms, and a glass encased yoga
down the beach.
spent hours and hours waddling in those
room perfect for getting your downward
shallows carefree, playing with wet sand
dog on. Continuing up, the top story is
For those with more newborn-free time,
and marvelling at the occasional glimpse
one giant wrap-around outdoor patio,
kite-surfing looked incredible. After
of a fish.
with a bar at the back and a constellation
about 1pm the winds started to pick-up
of chaise lounges with a panoramic view
and a battalion of kites hit the water.
Then, sunned out, we’d climb up the
of the ocean at the front.
Heavenly is only a few minutes walk from
short embankment to Heavenly, where
where Tribe Watersports drops people
we’d often be greeted by a troop of
I later found out Heavenly House was
in - I’m told they can get anyone gliding
monkeys hoping to snatch up any post-
designed (successfully) with great
across the water with a bit of effort.
beach snacks. After a quick hose-down
care and at great expense to feel like
Kitesurfing isn’t the only main water
to wash the sand off our feet, we’d
a sophisticated and chic Pallenberg
activity on offer - there are plenty of
plunge back into the pool, swim over
Bay home. Everything in it, including all
dolphin and whale watching tours, plus a
to the living room, towel off and lie in
the custom furnishings, were imported
plethora of snorkelling options nearby.
the warm shade until something terrible
from South Africa (for those into the
prompted us to move again.
details, interior design was led by
While all this sounds amazing, it's the
Derrick Tabbert of Kim Hutton Design in
diving that most excites me. My wife and
In one corner of the pool sits a little
Johannesburg).
I have had the great pleasure of diving
statue of Buddha. I am not a Buddhist,
around the world, but have yet to dip into
nor do I pretend to know much about it,
After a quick meal and naptime for the
Kenyan waters with tanks on our backs.
but I can tell you that a week at Heavenly
kids our main mission began - get into
For now we enjoy the family friendly
made me zen.
our chill zone. It wasn’t hard. Nearly
activities we can do together.
instantly, the soporific effects of chef
And this, I think, is why there are no
Martin’s giant seafood feasts set in. A
One of the great benefits of being
signs to Heavenly House. Once you’re
routine was soon established - eat, chill,
on Turtle Bay beach are the low-tide
there, you don’t want to leave so there is
swim, eat, chill, swim, eat, chill, go to
shallows. You can walk a few hundred
no need to find your way back.
bed. The only thing breaking up this bliss
meters into the ocean and stand only
BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
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2. L.G.R limited edition sunnies
1. Fujifilm X100F
Let's Go To The Beach @the_mentalyst
Who is Trevor? I love to think of myself as a visual orator. With a background in Aerospace Engineering and Software Development, I took a leap of faith into the world of film and photography and quickly fell in love with the work. My work highlights include shooting Travel, Lifestyle, and Documentaries. I enjoy traveling. My favourite places in Kenya to visit are Lamu, The North
3. Sony A7rIV with my 24-70mm
(which I am yet to travel to), the Maasai Mara, and Amboseli.
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4. Beanie
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sandstormkenya.com 45
Msambweni Beach House
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BOOK THIS HOME For more information about this home or to book your stay email bookings@nomad.africa or visit our website nomadafrica.travel
True Meaning of Luxury Ami Doshi Shah reflects on the true meaning of luxury after a blissful coastal family getaway. Photos by Lyra Aoko
I have a somewhat cynical relationship with the word ‘luxury’. It is a word that is thrown about with reckless abandon, used to describe things from handbags with stroke-worthy price tags to hotels and resorts that have more puffy bathroom accessories than is necessary. There is a genuine discomfort with just how fleeting and fickle everything that word represents can often be. It is a word. A word so loaded with opportunity for subjective interpretation. I thought really hard about this when watching our two boys repeatedly cannonballing into the pool at Villa III, Msambweni Beach House. I was forced to count the number of knee-hugging dives my younger son made. Twenty minutes and around 30 cannonballs later, I gave up (but like any self-respecting parent, pretended I hadn’t).
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We made the 25 minute drive from Ukunda Airport in Diani to this remote spot along Kenya’s south coast. Meandering sandy murrum roads led us to an imposing lyme-white two story house capped with a traditional Swahili makuti roof. Walking into the ornately carved and weather worn doors leading into the main resort, we were confronted by intense light. The sun reflected off the shimmering white terrazzo surrounding the infinity pool as well as every surface in the entrance, that is the bar and white walls, as though creating a gallery space to frame the most perfect picture of all. The palms fringed the view of the sea. The only concession to this were salt-tarnished brass vases stuffed with vibrant fuchsia bougainvillea and frangipani. A colourful punctuation to an unabbreviated space.
ADVER TOR IAL
Our three bedroom villa boasted a private infinity pool and a four storey high makuti roof and much the same aesthetic fingerprint as the main house - white with hints of azure and shades of green. For two days and nights, we left our villa briefly to walk on the rocky coral pools at low tide, searching for sea urchins and seashells or to the main house for a drink at the bar and wood fired pizzas. Most meals were served in our villa and like little hermits, we feasted on tempura and line-caught grilled fish. Every dish was freshly made
from local produce and served with warmth and discretion. The remainder of our time at Msambweni Beach House was spent jumping and emerging from our pool like shriveled prunes. Days here were spent in almost perfect isolation. A time to reflect. To appreciate. To be patient with time and love. Strange how it is alway when things are stripped away and life is less distracting that you can focus. For us, it was two days of quiet, hysterical laughter, sublime nourishment and time with our growing boys - a real luxury.
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