HIDDEN GEMS
Ishara Mara
After a transformative refresh, Ishara Mara is back—offering a reimagined safari experience in the heart of the Maasai Mara. Set along the Talek River, this luxury camp merges world-class comfort with untamed wilderness, delivering an adventure that feels both intimate and extraordinary.
With a prime location in the Reserve, Ishara places you in the midst of Africa’s greatest wildlife spectacles. But staying in the wild doesn’t mean sacrificing comfort. The spacious tented suites offer private decks, plush furnishings, vintage copper bath tubs and open-air showers that bring you even closer to nature.
Brand-new features include elevated walkways that soar through lush tree canopies, a redesigned spa, a yoga deck, a sauna, cold plunge and hot tub, an expanded swimming pool, an elevated gym overlooking the plains, a wine cellar, and an al fresco fireplace and lounge.
With your own private luxury land cruiser for exhilarating game drives and an eclectic mix of settings within the camp and in the Reserve, Ishara’s poetic interpretations of the gastronomic experience conjure up an ambience to complement and enhance the fine dining and mindful cuisine offerings; think Nespresso machines on game drives and hot out of the oven artisanal pizza for sundowners and you very quickly realise that this is a camp unlike any other.
For those who love photography, Ishara is a dream. A fully equipped Canon studio with resident photographers provides complimentary professional gear, photo safaris and photoshoots to ensure you capture every breathtaking moment. But the experience goes beyond game drives—the Mara’s only Starbed offers a night under African skies, and visits to Maasai communities provide a meaningful connection to local traditions.
Sustainability is woven into every aspect of Ishara and the camp is designed to leave a light footprint while supporting conservation and community initiatives that protect this iconic landscape.
Whether you’re after adventure, relaxation, or a deeper connection with the wild, Ishara Mara is the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave. Is this the safari experience you've been waiting for?
Book your stay in Ishara with Nomad Africa
Editors Message from the
Dear Readers,
April 2025 has arrived, bringing with it the rains. There’s something about a rainy day that sparks the imagination, what’s calling you next? A place that ignites a sense of wonder and brings your spirit to life. We’ve got you covered in this issue—it's all about uncovering hidden gems.
We begin by celebrating six remarkable women who are leading the charge in conservation efforts across Kenya. These women are true hidden treasures if you ask us. Then, we take you just 30 minutes outside Nairobi to Tigoni— a destination where history, natural beauty, and modern attractions come together seamlessly.
From Tigoni, we move up to the Kenyan Highlands, where the rare and elusive bongo is making a slow but steady comeback. In this issue, we also spotlight a rising star—a young writer whose heartfelt article on the Amboni caves won our latest competition.
Building on the success of our Ethiopia feature from the last issue, we’re bringing you an immersive experience: a 4-day trek through Ethiopia’s breathtaking Simien Mountains, with its rugged landscapes and unique wildlife. And for an extra dash of adventure, we’re adding Madagascar to our map. Come with us on a canoeing adventure down the mighty Tsiribihina River, tucked in the untouched west of the island. “Tsiribihina” means “don’t cross the river on foot,” so get ready for an unforgettable experience.
To wrap things up, we invite you to experience a day in Arua, Uganda—a personal journey through food, friendship, and adventure. After all, while the destination surely contributes, the connections you make along the way are what truly make a hidden gem worthwhile.
Happy exploring, Nomad Africa team
In this Issue,
Noteworthy
Nomad expresses gratitude to Eric
Nomad
Ludovica Cipolla
Kayak the Nile Canoe Club Mass Fundraiser
1st May, Bungee Uganda
Boogie in the Bush
23rd May - 25th May, Arusha
Boogie in the Bush is an exciting new music festival celebrating live jazz, blues, and reggae, with a spotlight on Tanzania’s incredible musicians. As night falls, over 30 rising DJs from across the Pearl of Africa will set Arusha ablaze with the best of Afro disco, house, and techno. Enjoy wellness activities, kid-friendly workshops, beer gardens, and live art installations.
On May 1st, 2025, Kayak the Nile Canoe Club is making waves with its first-ever Mass Float Fundraiser! This thrilling event will raise funds to empower young girls in the local community through kayaking—equipping them with life-changing skills and career opportunities in the sport. Starting at Bungee Uganda, participants will drift down the Nile, guided by the club’s rising Junior stars, before landing at the Nile River Explorers Campsite. Expect sunshine, good vibes, and an unforgettable ride—all for an incredible cause. Don’t miss your chance to float for the future! Call/ Whatsapp: +256 722 880 322. Email: Bookings@ kayakthenile.com
Kip Keino Classic
31st May, Nyayo Stadium
The sixth edition of the Kip Keino Classic is set for May 31, 2025, at Nairobi's Nyayo National Stadium. As part of the World Athletics Continental Tour Gold series, this premier event attracts top athletes globally.
Named after Kenyan legend Kipchoge Keino, the Classic offers thrilling competitions and showcases Kenya's rich athletic heritage. Fans can anticipate electrifying performances as international stars compete on Kenyan soil.
Lewa Marathon
Ever raced alongside rhinos, elephants, and giraffes? The Lewa Safari Marathon, set for June 28, celebrates 25 years of adventure, conservation, and community impact. Organized by Tusk, Lewa, and Safaricom, this legendary race takes runners through rugged savannah, acacia woodlands, and
riverbanks within the breathtaking Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Known as one of the world’s toughest and most rewarding marathons, it’s more than just a test of endurance—it’s a powerful force for wildlife conservation and local community development.
28 June, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy
Rufina William
Hello, my name is Rufina William, and I’m a passionate female nature guide and wildlife photographer working with Entara and Lodges in the breathtaking Serengeti. Being here is truly a living dream for me, every day feels like an adventure. My love for nature, combined with my deep appreciation for wildlife photography, fuels my desire to capture the incredible moments of life in the wild. I enjoy every moment spent in the Serengeti, whether it’s exploring the vast plains in a 4x4 vehicle or observing the majestic creatures that call this place home. It’s an honor to share these unforgettable experiences with others, and I’m excited to continue this journey
Aashiv Shah
Aashiv Shah is a distinguished wildlife and nature photographer with over a decade of experience capturing the intricate beauty of the natural world. His work focuses on the delicate interplay of light, movement, and emotion, aiming to tell compelling stories through his images. Beyond his personal photography endeavors, Aashiv is deeply committed to education. For the past five years, he has been conducting workshops and safaris, guiding others to not only take photos but to truly immerse themselves in the wild and develop their own art of storytelling.
Gurveena Ghataure
Gurveena Ghataure is a zoologist and conservationist who grew up in Kenya and has spent her career working across Africa and south east Asia, including in Myanmar, Vietnam Cambodia, and Indonesia. She has traveled the world solo in pursuit of wildlife, fostering deep connections between people and nature. Her work spans forests, marine conservation, species, and community conservation, always championing the underdogs—lesser-known species and overlooked ecosystems. Passionate about storytelling, she uses photography and writing to highlight the beauty of nature and the urgency of protecting it.
Wild Women:
Celebrating the Female Vets Protecting Kenya’s Wildlife
By Tracie Rabar
In the spirit of International Women's Day, Nomad Africa shone a light on six extraordinary women who are reshaping the future of conservation in Kenya. In a field often seen as rugged, unpredictable, and historically male-dominated, these wildlife vets are not just proving they belong—they’re uplifting each other along the way.
Through a tight-knit community of support, mentorship, and shared passion for wildlife, they’re redefining what it means to be on the frontlines of conservation. Thanks to Dr. Florence Kangethe, a vet at Ol Pejeta Conservancy, we get a rare glimpse into this sisterhood—a network of fearless women. Beyond the adrenaline and adventure, their work is filled with sacrifice, grit, and heart. These are the Wild Women safeguarding our wild heritage.
Where it All Began
For many of these women, the path to wildlife medicine started with a simple, undeniable love of animals. “I’ve always loved animals,” says Dr. Sharon Mulindi, a senior veterinary officer for the Kenya Wildlife Service. “My dad was a biology teacher who nurtured my curiosity. Between trips to the Animal Orphanage and watching documentaries together, I knew early on that I wanted to work with wildlife.”
For Dr. Juliet Waiyaki, now the resident vet at the Kenya Bird of Prey Trust, her inspiration came later, sparked by a guest lecture from none other than Dr. Sarange Angwenyi , Training Lead, Wildlife Health Watch, Smithsonian's Global Health Program, herself. “It was one of the most formative talks I’ve ever attended,” Juliet recalls. “I left feeling curious, inspired—and now, years later, I’m doing the work I was meant to do.”
A Day in the Life
Behind every successful conservation story is a daily grind that few see. “There’s no such thing as a typical day,” explains Dr. Melanie Wangui, who works at Loisaba Conservancy. “Some days I’m monitoring livestock health, other days I’m responding to wildlife emergencies or bottle-feeding orphaned kudu calves. But I’m always on call. Wildlife doesn’t stick to a 9-5 schedule.”
For Dr. Sarange, her work takes her across Kenya's rangelands, training rangers to monitor wildlife health. “I’m constantly in awe of our landscapes, but also of the rangers I meet. Their dedication to protecting our heritage is unmatched."
The Challenges of the Job
Being a wildlife vet is not without its dangers—and biases. “The animals are unpredictable, and so are the environments,” says Dr. Mukami Ruoro a senior veterinary officer for the Kenya Wildlife service, who has worked on high-profile cases like receiving the peafowl gifted to former President Uhuru Kenyatta. “But beyond the physical risks, as a Black woman in this field, I’ve faced skepticism and assumptions about my abilities. Many still doubt whether a woman can handle the harsh realities of fieldwork. I’ve had to prove, over and over, that we can.” Balancing this demanding work with personal life adds another layer of complexity.
Moments That Matter
For all the challenges, the wins are unforgettable. Dr. Florence Kangethe, Resident Vet at Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, reflects on career-defining moments like working with the world’s last Northern White Rhinos and winning Kenya’s Top 40 Under 40 Women award. “It reminded me that our work truly matters—not just to the animals, but to the future of conservation.”
Meanwhile, Dr. Melanie proudly recounts her role in one of Kenya’s most historic conservation milestones: the return of Black Rhinos to Loisaba after 50 years.
“Monitoring their vitals during translocation, breathing in sync with them to keep them safe—it was surreal. And now we’re seeing new births. It doesn’t get better than that.”
Breaking Barriers for Women
These women are not just carving out space for themselves—they’re paving the way for others. “Thanks to the women who came before me, I know that not only can we be in this field—we can dominate,” says Dr. Juliet Waiyaki.
Dr. Sharon Mulindi adds, “Women bring empathy, resilience, and strong community engagement. Conservation isn’t just about animals—it’s about people too. And women have long been at the forefront of that work.”
A Wild Sisterhood
As Kenya’s wild spaces face mounting threats, these women stand on the frontlines, not just as vets but as guardians of our shared natural heritage. Their journeys are as diverse as the landscapes they protect, but they’re united by a fierce love of wildlife—and an unbreakable commitment to conservation.
This International Women's Day, Nomad Africa celebrates these Wild Women. Their stories are a testament to the power of passion, resilience, and sisterhood in safeguarding the wild heart of Kenya.
- An Insider’s Guide Tigoni Life
by Liz Wambua
Just thirty minutes outside of Nairobi, in the heart of the central highlands, the town of Tigoni is quickly becoming a favorite among locals and travellers in the know. Surrounded by lush tea plantations, rolling hills, and breathtaking views, this picturesque hidden gem is waiting to be discovered.
Tigoni’s history is as rich as its landscape. The area’s natural beauty attracted many notable figures in Kenya’s colonial past, including King George VI, who once owned land in the region. This royal connection adds an air of prestige to the town, creating a fascinating backdrop for the modern-day charms it now offers. From this regal past to its present-day vibrancy, Tigoni holds onto its historical charm, blending it seamlessly with contemporary life. Whether you’re in search of adventure, relaxation, or a bit of both, Tigoni has something for everyone.
Where to Stay
For those seeking a unique staycation experience, the Tea Pods are tucked within a forest in a 60-hectare
Photos by Christin Theilig
working tea plantation. Each one of the four pods offers an unrivaled view and serene bliss. We combined our stay with a guided tea farm tour, explored the farm on e-bike and tried our hand at kayaking on the scenic Tigoni Dam, ending the evening watching the sunset over the hills. Ravenswood and a little further north on Riara Ridge - Siri, both offer short stays in contemporary 3 bedroom A-frame cabins surrounded by lush tea plantations.
Where to Eat
Tigoni’s food scene has slowly evolved in recent years. The hottest ticket in town is a seat at the monthly Tigoni Supper Club at the stunning Lake House. Held, just once every month, guest chefs are invited to set up shop
for a boozy weekend lunch experience like no other. Undoubtedly one of the most amazing food experiences I have ever been to. Pricy but worth every penny!
The Fig & Olive cafe & farm shop is another must stop in Tigoni! Offering fresh, farm to fork produce in a stunning upcycled barn setting overlooking a lush garden. The nearby Kentmere Club is a popular hotspot for Nyama Choma and both Anza & Nifty Wine Bar are perfect for an evening after work drink with live music.
What to Do
Undoubtedly, the most popular activity in Tigoni for tourists and locals alike is a tea farm tour. Gathoni Farm & Kiambethu Farm are some of several tea farms that offer guided tours and tastings. A truly immersive cultural experience, particularly fun for families with children who can enjoy feeding the farm animals, tree planting, donkey rides and more.
For the adventurous, hike through the indigenous Brackenhurst Forest or visit the Tigoni Equestrian Centre for scenic horseback riding trails through the picturesque tea plantations. Try zip lining if you dare or explore the local area by renting an e-bike at the Twin Rivers Resort. The nearby Naiposha gardens on the Tigoni Dam is a great spot for picnics and boat rides.
The iconic Limuru Golf & Country Club, following a ravaging fire that burnt down the main club house in January 2025, seems to be thriving! In addition to golf, the club has an active bowls & tennis community. Nairobi’s padel craze seems to have also found its way with new courts now at the Fig & Olive Padel and Red Hill Karting is worth checking out for those looking for an adrenaline rush!
Art lovers can also indulge in Tigoni’s vibrant art scene at RedHill Art Gallery, featuring exhibitions of works from both emerging and established artists, showcasing a range of sculptures, paintings, and mixed media pieces. Kawamwaki Art Studio & Banana Hill Art Galleries are also worth a visit, both celebrating local talent and providing an avenue for emerging artists to showcase their work.
Tigoni’s rich history, combined with its natural beauty and modern attractions, makes it a destination worth exploring. Whether you're interested in outdoor adventures, cultural experiences, or simply relaxing amidst stunning landscapes, Tigoni offers a unique and memorable experience for every visitor.
Liz Wambua is a digital strategy & communications executive based in Tigoni. Having grown up in the area, Liz is passionate about promoting sustainable tourism to Tigoni and the surrounding area, while supporting local businesses through the digital platform Tigoni Life (www.tigoni.life).
This shift from science to the kitchen was inspired by childhood experiences helping his mother, who had lost her sight. Little did he know, those early moments in the kitchen would set him on a path that would span continents and lead him to become the Executive Chef at the Gem Forest Hotel Nairobi - MGallery Collection.
For Aziz, cooking isn’t just about food—it’s about creating memorable moments. This beautifully resonates with The Singleton Whisky’s ethos: to celebrate life’s fleeting moments through the art of connection, food and drink - the Single Moment. It encourages us to slow down and savour the present, making every experience unforgettable. No one embodies this spirit more than Chef Tarique Aziz.
Aziz’s approach to cooking is about more than just perfecting a recipe—it's about transforming a meal into an unforgettable experience. One of his signature creations, a rich risotto with lamb chops glazed
CRAFTING THE PERFECT "SINGLE MOMENT" WITH FLAVOUR AND PASSION CHEF TARIQUE AZIZ:
Chef Tarique Aziz’s culinary journey is nothing short of remarkable. Born in Kolkata, India, to a family of doctors and engineers, his path seemed set in stone. But at a pivotal moment in his life, Aziz made a bold decision to follow his true passion—cooking.
in 15-year-old Singleton whisky, exemplifies this philosophy. The whisky’s complexity adds depth to the dish, elevating the entire dining experience and forging a meaningful connection between the chef, the dish and the guest.
" The true essence of life is about savouring the time you have with the people around you, enjoying not just the food but the conversation, the laughter and the shared joy that comes with a great meal," says Aziz. His use of whisky in the kitchen, is part of his broader effort to merge food and drink in ways that enhance both. With each pairing, Aziz is inviting guests to pause, to reflect and to enjoy life’s simplest yet most powerful moments. As an Executive Chef, Aziz leads a team of 35-40 chefs at the Gem Forest Hotel Nairobi, where he cultivates an environment of camaraderie and creativity. Rather than running his kitchen like a military camp, Aziz fosters a collaborative space where every team member can thrive.
"It’s about delivering the best food while understanding the importance of working together," he explains. His leadership style emphasizes sustainability, a key component of his modern approach to cuisine, where reducing food waste and experimenting with new flavours go hand in hand.
Having worked across the globe, Aziz brings a wealth of knowledge to every dish he creates, blending cuisines from Indonesia, the Middle East and beyond. Yet, no matter where he is, his mission remains the same: to craft those special moments through food. Whether cooking for royalty, celebrities or everyday guests, Aziz’s goal is to deliver a dining experience that resonates long after the last bite.
For Aziz, the ultimate Single Moment is personal. He regrets not having had the chance to cook a special meal for his mother, the woman who unknowingly sparked his culinary career. Yet, through his cooking, he honours her every day. And now, Chef Aziz hopes to create lasting memories for others—helping people
connect, share and cherish the moments that matter most.
In the world of Chef Tarique Aziz, every meal is more than just sustenance—it is a chance to experience the beauty of life’s most important moments, one dish at a time. It is about that rare, perfect moment when everything comes together: the food, the drink, the laughter and the connection.
With every drop of Singleton whisky, paired with a carefully crafted dish, you're invited to slow down, savour the present, and make each moment one to remember. Because in life, it’s these moments that truly matter—and through the art of fine dining, they are never forgotten.
Next time you're at the Gem Forest Hotel Nairobi, take a moment to savour a Singleton cocktail as you await Chef Tarique Aziz working his magic in the kitchen. With each sip, let it set the stage for a meal that goes beyond food—it's an invitation to pause, enjoy, and appreciate the moments that make life memorable.
By Mia Ruffo
The Comeback:Bongo’s A onspecies the brink
Once abundant in Kenya’s highland forests, the critically endangered mountain bongo—one of the world’s largest and rarest antelope- are fewer than 150 individuals surviving in fragmented pockets of the Aberdare and Mount Kenya forests. Habitat destruction, poaching, and disease have pushed this elusive antelope to the edge of extinction. Yet, against all odds, the bongo is making a quiet return—thanks to a bold conservation effort combining captive breeding, habitat restoration, and community-driven initiatives. But beyond the survival of one species, this story invites us to think about how we protect endangered wildlife
Photos by Elke Bertolli
The bongo’s decline signals a fractured ecosystem, where humans have disrupted the natural balance. Conservationists turned to an ambitious plan: reintroducing captive-bred individuals to restore Mount Kenya’s wild population. Part of Kenya’s National Recovery and Action Plan for the Mountain Bongo, the goal is to increase the population to 750 over the next 50 years. This effort unites public and private organisations including the Lewa Conservancy, the Meru Bongo and Rhino Conservation Trust (MBRCT), the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy (MKWC), the KWS, DHL, Kenya Veterinary Services and Meru County Government, alongside local communities.
On February 23, seventeen bongos- twelve females and five males- were flown from the Rare Species Conservatory Foundation in Florida to the Marania and Mucheene Sanctuary, a 250-acre breeding and rewilding centre at the foothills of Mt. Kenya. Here, they will form a founder population and be reintroduced into the wild.
Kenya’s first reintroduction was in 2004, when eighteen bongos from the US were brought to the MKWC. Kenya now has ninety-eight bongos in pre-release, and have started to reproduce. According to the KWS, another relocation from Europe is in the pipeline.
This initiative has far-reaching benefits. As an umbrella species, the bongo’s protection extends to surrounding wildlife and alpine ecosystem. These mountain forests are a vital catchment area, supplying 95% of Nairobi’s water and around 75% of the country’s. While also providing vital ecosystem services, like climate regulation, flood control and carbon sequestering.
Beyond breeding programs, efforts are underway to reforest areas, establishing wildlife corridors, and deploying technology- camera traps, tracking collars, and drones- to combat poaching. A persistent threat as bongos are targeted for their meat and hide.
Conservation Through Community
Sustainable conservation begins with local communities. Historically, conservation efforts often excluded the very people living closest to wildlife. This project claims community engagement and collaboration as a cornerstone of its strategy.
By promoting sustainable agriculture and creating jobs in conservation and tourism, the initiative provides viable economic alternatives. Habitat restoration programs are being carried out alongside locals, and conservation education has been integrated into regional schools, fostering the next generation of environmental stewards.
When communities are empowered, conservation shifts from a challenge to a shared goal.
Mind, Bongo Crossing
Despite its successes, the bongo’s future remains fragile. With such a small founding population, genetic diversity is a concern. Careful breeding management is required to mitigate inbreeding. Habitat loss remains an ongoing threat. While forests are being restored, agriculture and development encroach on critical wildlife areas. And disease, largely from livestock, further strains already fragile populations.
Adding to these challenges is a proposed road through the Aberdare forest. While intended to boost regional connectivity, it risks further fragmenting critical habitat, intensifying human-wildlife conflict, and providing easier access for poachers. The Aberdares home around fifty mountain bongo- the largest remaining population in Kenya.
The species’ survival, and that of the ecosystem, depends on whether conservation is a priority in Kenya’s infrastructure planning. Addressing this issue requires not only conservation initiatives but systemic policy changes that balance human development with ecological preservation.
Some conservationists question whether captive-breeding diverts resources from habitat protection, which is
ultimately most critical to a species' survival. Others worry that reintroduced animals may lack the necessary survival skills. There is also the question of reintroducing species into landscapes that previously drove them outwill the same conflicts arise?
Perhaps the biggest lesson from the bongo’s resurgence is the need for adaptable, holistic conservation models. No single solution works in isolation. The key lies in considering all interconnected factors, while remaining flexible to changing ecological and social conditions.
Bounding to a Hopeful Future
The bongo’s comeback is about more than one species— it is about restoring balance. Each step forward brings hope, but biodiversity cannot be sustained by isolated success stories. The future depends on whether or not we can collectively shift how we coexist with nature.
The bongo is a symbol of resilience but true recovery takes decades. Without sustained funding, political will, and community involvement, conservation efforts risk unravelling. Time will tell if there is long-term commitment to the goal. While the mountain bongo’s journey is long, its quiet return is a reminder that if given a chance, nature can heal.
A Day in the Wild at Amboni. Escaping Nairobi:
As a partner of the Young Change Makers Mentorship Program, Nomad Africa features an upcoming writer in all magazines in 2025.
By Glenn Gachuhi, Boma International Hospitality College
The city buzz fades into silence. The crisp scent of damp earth lingers in the air, birdsong drowns out the distant memories of honking cars, and the gentle murmur of the Tana River soothes my restless mind. At Amboni Riverine Forest Camp, time slows, and nature takes over. I came seeking an escape what I found was something deeper.
Some places do not just offer a getaway; they transform how you see the world. Located near Nyeri, about a three-hour drive from Nairobi, Amboni is a sanctuary where the melodies of birds, rustling trees, and the rhythmic flow of the river create the perfect retreat. Unlike the city’s constant motion, Amboni offers something rare, pure tranquillity.
I arrived and took a deep breath, letting the fresh air wash over me. As I wandered along the riverbank, I felt a calm no hospitality textbook could teach me. The river shimmered under the sun, and the occasional splash of a fish breaking the surface added to the serenity.
A guided nature walk introduced me to indigenous medicinal plants, knowledge that has been passed down for generations. Our guide, a local conservationist, explained how these plants are used in nearby
communities to treat fevers and stomach ailments, reducing dependence on pharmaceuticals. Seeing their practical use made me appreciate the deep connection between nature and wellness.
Later, a canoe ride brought an unexpected thrill. Hippos surfaced nearby, watching curiously before vanishing into the water. Birds of all colours darted above, their calls echoing through the forest. But what stood out most was Amboni’s commitment to sustainability. Instead of plastic waste, the camp enforces a strict “leave no trace” policy through visitor education and guided clean-up walks. More impressively, Amboni actively supports reforestation efforts, planting indigenous trees that restore lost habitats, improve air quality, and naturally regulate the microclimate.
As I packed up to leave, I realized this was more than just a trip. Spending a day immersed in nature, away from the rush of Nairobi, reminded me how little we truly need to feel at peace. It was a lesson in simplicity, in the delicate balance between adventure and conservation. If you seek a place where time slows, the wild thrives, and every moment feels alive, Amboni is waiting.
Canoeing the mighty River Tsiribihina Madagascar’s untouched west
By Ariana Dickey
Suitcases, crates of food, household items, and other odds and ends flew around us as we peered through crowds of people in Antananarivo’s Cotisse bus station looking for our bus. My partner and I had just landed in Madagascar and knew we had an 16-hour road trip ahead of us, so we were eager to hit the road.
Our final destination was Miandrivazo, where we would meet the guides for our canoe trip down the River Tsiribihina in Madagascar’s remote west. We broke up the journey with a night in Antsirabe, where we enjoyed the sight of colorful tuk-tuks zipping around and a delightful meal of French food with a Madagascan twist. Once we arrived in Miandrivazo in the late afternoon the following day, we carried our bags to the river's edge, following closely behind our guides Saturnée, Madu, and Zuasoa.
It was a blisteringly sunny day in November at the end of the hot season, and the weather was so searing that the river’s water wasn’t even cool to the touch. At this time of year, the river swirls with the deep red of the land around it, and everyone is waiting for the rains that would flood the surrounding plains to start the rice harvesting season. During the cooler times of year in April through September, when the red river has been flushed by the rainy season, the water runs clear – but our guides told us the local communities living along the Tsiribihina preferred the sweet taste of the red river this time of year.
We threw our bags into a dugout canoe long enough to fit our team of five sitting single file and all our provisions for the next three days and set off down stream. Our guides pointed out the towering, pin straight trees that lined the river from which these traditional canoes were made and the crocodiles lurking below the surface. As we floated down the river, we could also see giant mango trees heavy with fruit leaning over the river banks. We pulled over to stretch our legs and picked as many of the sweet fruit as we could carry in our arms back to the canoe for snacks along the way.
A few hours later, we paddled over to the riverbank again – this time with promises of lemurs and a waterfall waiting further inland. We disembarked and made our way into the thick jungle ahead of us. After a short walk through the woods, the trees broke and a glacial blue river appeared. We followed the river further upstream to find two pools of icy spring water bubbling up beneath a gushing waterfall. After a deeply appreciated dip, we made our way back to the canoe, stumbling into a family of lemurs darting amongst the treetops above us. We camped on a sandy bank that night and continued our adventure downstream the next day. On our second day, we were again keen to stock up on mangoes to snack on throughout the day. Our guides pulled over to a small gathering of people beside the river and explained to us that the villages along the river are so remote
that their only interaction with the outside world is with people they meet who are canoeing down the river. They have no use for money and instead prefer to barter for essential goods they can’t readily access. In exchange for some of our salt, we pushed off again with a substantial haul of mangoes.
On the horizon, black clouds were gathering and a gentle wind whispered by. We knew it could only mean one thing – we were about to get very wet. November, when we took our excursion, is the boundary time between the hot, dry season and the rainy season. Although it doesn’t rain every day, visitors might expect to get a taste of the seasonal rains with the pounding afternoon storms that sometimes pass through. The sky broke above, and after 20 minutes of shower-like rain pouring down, the clouds abruptly dissipated as quickly as they had rolled in.
“Tsiribihina” means “don’t cross the river by foot” – a nod to the river’s resident crocodiles and depth. We were grateful to have experienced the nature and traditional way of life we witnessed on our three-day adventure, which wouldn’t have been possible without our local guides, who generously shared their knowledge of the ecology and local customs we otherwise would have missed.
HIDDEN GEMS & ADVENTURES
Exploring the Hidden Side of Safety
Off-the-grid adventures are the ultimate escape—until the grid is exactly what you wish you had. Whether it’s a magical sunset over a remote savanna or a flat tire 50 kilometers from cell service, going off the beaten path is a thrill best enjoyed with a safety net. Here’s your light-hearted guide to staying safe while wandering off into the unknown, with a little help from rescue.co.
1. Leave Breadcrumbs (Digitally, of Course)
Before you head out, let someone know your plans. Share your route, your ETA, and what to do if they don’t hear from you. Bonus: Rescue.co team loves it when you’re easy to find.
2. Pack a Little Extra Adventure Juice (Fuel, Snacks, and Water)
Running out of gas or food mid-adventure is only funny when it happens to someone else. Top up your tank, stash extra snacks, and keep a portable water filter on hand for when the “hidden gem” is hidden a little too well.
3. Bring Gadgets That Work as Hard as You Play
A GPS tracker like the Garmin inReach Mini, to keep you connected when cell phones don’t. Add a first aid kit, a mosquito-repellent wristband, and a flashlight to your gear, and you’re basically Bear Grylls.
4. Embrace the Buddy System (also called Rescue.co)
Traveling solo? Think of rescue.co as your built-in buddy. With services like roadside assistance, air evacuations, and 24/7 emergency help, you’re never truly alone— even when you want to be. Create a Medical ID and Emergency contact in your phone (Samsung and iPhone have great functions) just to make sure you have everything handy.
5. Know When to Call It Quits
Adventures are great, but knowing when to call for backup is even better. A Safe Travel Membership means you’ve got experts on speed dial, ready to turn your mishap into a well-managed story for the dinner table. Stay curious—and prepared.
Your next adventure awaits!
Safe travels from rescue.co!
UNCOVERED ARUSHA
By Nilpa Shah
Arusha is often seen as the gateway to iconic safaris, but we were after something different—an off-the-beatenpath adventure that would be fun for the whole family. With the mid-term holidays here, we were ready to explore beyond the typical tourist trails and discover the hidden heartbeat of Arusha.
Follow Nilpa @thesoultravellerke
The journey began with a sense of anticipation as we wandered the streets of Arusha; but it was in the uncharted corners of the city that we uncovered the true magic. Away from the crowds and the typical landmarks, Arusha’s hidden gems whisper secrets of the city’s soul, and we explore three top spots you absolutely cannot miss.
Kikuletwa Springs
Just two hours from Arusha lies Kikuletwa Springs, also known as Chemka—a hidden oasis tucked away in the Tanzanian wilderness. The turquoise, crystal-clear waters are as refreshing as they are inviting. You can float in the warm waters, take a swing on the rope for an adrenaline rush, or enjoy a free natural pedicure from the famous Garra Rufa fish (a.k.a. “doctor fish”) nibbling at your feet. Surrounded by palm and fig trees, this spot feels like a secret waiting to be discovered. It’s not your typical hot
spring—the water here is more lagoon-like and fed by Mount Kilimanjaro’s fresh waters. Kikuletwa may not offer much in terms of amenities, but that’s exactly what makes it so special—its authenticity and the sheer beauty of nature are enough to make this a must-see spot on any trip to Arusha.
Shanga: Crafting Memories at Arusha Coffee Lodge
Shanga isn’t just a place to visit—it’s where memories are made. This unique workshop, nestled at Arusha Coffee Lodge, gives families the chance to roll up their sleeves and create alongside talented, differently abled artisans. The air is filled with the hum of creation, and there’s something incredibly rewarding about learning new skills—whether it’s beadwork, glassblowing, or Maasai jewelry-making.
What makes Shanga special? Each piece you craft, from necklaces to glassware, is a tangible reminder of the stories and struggles behind the artistry. And, of course, sipping on some of the best coffee in Tanzania while crafting makes this a brew-tiful experience!
Arusha National Park is a refreshing escape from the usual safari crowds, offering something for every type of adventurer. This place doesn’t shout for attention; instead, it quietly invites you into its wild embrace.
Divided into three distinct areas—Momella Lakes, Mount Meru, and Ngurdoto Crater—each spot has its own charm. One of the highlights is walking safaris. Without predators like lions, you can explore the park on foot, getting up close with giraffes, monkeys, and vibrant birdlife. It’s a unique thrill to hike beneath Mount Meru, surrounded by lush forests and tranquil lakes.
Don’t forget to see the iconic Fig Tree—tucked in the forest with a massive arch wide enough for vehicles to pass through. Its striking shape and prime location near the Tululusia Waterfalls make it a truly unique and memorable stop in the park.
This is just the beginning. Arusha has so much more to offer, whether you’re into culture, adventure, food, or just soaking up the hospitality that the people of Tanzania are so known for.
Arusha is a place that doesn’t try too hard to impress; it simply offers an experience that feels true, raw, and unforgettable.
Arusha National Park: A Safari Without the Crowds
KOFISI Expands in Nairobi with the Launch of KOFISI
Kaskazi
Setting a Bold New Standard for Premium Workspaces in Africa
As the future of work continues to evolve, so does the demand for world-class office environments that inspire productivity, innovation, and success. KOFISI Africa, the continent’s leading provider of premium, hospitality-led workspaces, is once again redefining the work experience in Nairobi with the launch of KOFISI Kaskazi, a new landmark Centre set to open in Westlands.
Located on General Mathenge Road, KOFISI Kaskazi represents the pinnacle of high-end office design and five-star services. More than just an office space, it is a holistic work environment that seamlessly integrates sophisticated design, wellness, hospitality, and technology to empower businesses in Kenya and beyond. Offering companies access to some of the most dynamic, luxurious, and innovative workspaces in the world, KOFISI Kaskazi is shaping the future of how work gets done.
The Centre will feature an impressive array of amenities designed to enhance work-life balance and elevate the daily work experience. Beyond bespoke private offices, members will enjoy a state-of-the-art gym, a stunning rooftop terrace, premium event and meeting spaces, an exclusive screening room, and beautifully curated Member Lounges for social and business interactions.
Additionally, following the success of The Bistro at KOFISI Square, Kaskazi will introduce two sustainabilitydriven restaurants, one of which will be open to both KOFISI Members and the public. Spanning ten floors, this purpose-driven space will embody a lifestyle that seamlessly blends work, wellness, and hospitality, ensuring professionals stay inspired and energized throughout the day.
Inspired by the natural rhythms of East Africa, KOFISI Kaskazi takes its name from the Kaskazi winds, which bring steady momentum to the region’s coastline, symbolizing growth, movement, and transformation. Each floor within the Centre is thoughtfully designed to reflect the changing seasons, reinforcing a sense of connection to nature and renewal. This design philosophy fosters an environment where individuals and businesses can thrive, adapt, and evolve.
With the addition of 90,000 sq ft of premium office space, KOFISI’s footprint in Nairobi now spans nearly 300,000 sq ft across seven Centres in Karen, Riverside, Upperhill and Westlands. This expansion solidifies KOFISI’s position as Kenya’s largest provider of hospitality-led, design-driven workspaces, delivering best-in-class experiences that attract and support multinational corporations, high-growth enterprises, and visionary industry leaders.
“KOFISI is committed to creating world-class work environments that set a global benchmark for the future of work,” says Michael Aldridge, CEO & Founder of KOFISI. “KOFISI Kaskazi is not just about office space— it’s about crafting a dynamic ecosystem that seamlessly integrates work, lifestyle, and world-class facilities to drive productivity, innovation, and success.”
The launch of KOFISI Kaskazi is a key milestone in the company’s ambitious growth strategy, which aims to reach 1 million square feet of premium workspace across Africa in the coming years. In partnership with Workshop17, KOFISI is rapidly expanding its footprint, with locations now spanning Morocco, Kenya, Tanzania, Nigeria, South Africa and Mauritius.
As Africa’s business landscape continues to evolve, KOFISI remains at the forefront, providing sophisticated, hospitality-led workspaces that empower enterprises to grow, innovate and succeed. With KOFISI Kaskazi, the company is not only revolutionising office culture in Kenya but also reinforcing Africa’s position as a prime destination for global business.
The future of work is here—at KOFISI Kaskazi. For enquiries, please contact sales@kofisi.africa
Trekking Ethiopia’sinSimien Mountains: A Journey of Stunning Landscapes and Unique Wildlife
By Ludovica Cipolla
Earth Day is round the corner, and we thought a breathtaking trek was the best way to celebrate this planet and the beauty of its landscapes. This time we take you to the Simien Mountains, a majestic mountain range located in the north of the country and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Simien, primarily formed through volcanic activity millions of years ago, offers you an experience of beautiful rugged sceneries and unique wildlife. Whether you're an experienced trekker or just beginning your hiking journey, we recommend a four days / three nights trek to properly reach to the heart of this true East African gem. Pics courtesy of Yoan Raih.
Day 1: Gondar to Sankaber
Your journey begins in Gondar, a historic city known for its medieval castles. We recommend you arrive one day before and visit the 17th century complex of Fasil Ghebbi, another UNESCO site. And at night, Gondar will surprise you with its warm and lively atmosphere! In the morning, you will drive up to Michibiny, close to the entrance of the Simien Mountains National Park at approximately 3,000 meters above sea level. Here, your
gentle trek to Sankaber starts: this is about 2-3 hours long, a short distance designed to help you acclimatize to the high altitude. You'll notice the vegetation transition from lush forests to open grasslands, and if you are lucky you’ll already catch a glimpse of the majestic gelada baboons, known as "bleeding heart monkeys" due to the distinctive red patches on their chests. They are not only a symbol of the Simien Mountains but are also incredibly friendly, often approaching humans with curiosity. You will spend the night at the Sankaber campsite.
Day 2: Sankaber to Gich
Day 2 you will head towards Gich, at 3,600 meters above sea level. This is a more challenging hike, covering approximately 12 kilometers. Our guide was a Bob Marley fan, so maybe expect some reggae tunes to set your pace while you cross grasslands and heather forests! Take the time to look at the rock formations all around you, sculpted by millennia of erosion into cliffs, peaks and gorges (like the famous Jinbar Falls) in a kaleidoscope of beige, rose and brown tones. Keep an eye out for the elusive, slender Ethiopian wolf, also known as the Simien fox - a true joy to spot it. At the end of your day, the village of Gich welcomes you with an Ethiopian warm coffee ceremony.
Day 3: Gich to Chennek
This day is perhaps the most spectacular, with a 8 hours, 12km rewarding hike to Chennek. From the height of Imet Gogo - at 3,925 meters - you will see the Gich plateau with its giant lobelias while the majestic Lammergeyer vultures fly above you. Chennek is renowned for its sightings of the endangered Walia ibex, a species found nowhere else in the world - some of them will even dare wandering into the campsite at night!
Day 4: Chennek to Ras Bwahit and Return to Gondar
On your final day, you'll ascend to the Bwahit Pass and, if energy permits, hike to Ras Bwahit, the second-highest peak in Ethiopia. From Ras Bwahit, you will descend back to the Chennek campsite, and continue to Gondar by car. I can guarantee you will be sad to leave.
The best time to trek the Simien Mountains is from October to March, when the weather is clearer and drier. The rainy season, which typically runs from June to September, can make trails slippery and less accessible. The Simien are at high altitudes: altitude sickness is a risk, although rare, so it is crucial to acclimatize gradually and have local guides and scouts with you. This not only ensures safety but also supports local communities.
East African Brands: A Uganda Focus
Uganda is a country bursting with energy, creativity, and entrepreneurial spirit. From its vibrant cities to its lush countryside, innovation thrives in every corner, driven by a new generation of forward-thinking brands reshaping industries. Whether in fashion, technology, or sustainability, Ugandan businesses are making bold moves, blending tradition with modernity to create products and services that stand out on the regional and global stage.
Afro Muru
Based in Kampala, Uganda, Afro Muru is a sustainable clothing brand that upcycles materials to create unique fashion pieces inspired by Ugandan culture and art. Founded by multidisciplinary artist Murungi Kevin in 2020, the brand emphasizes environmental consciousness and cultural heritage in its designs.
Afro Muru primarily sources fabrics from second-hand markets like Owino and the Green Shops, transforming them into wearable art. The brand's collections often draw inspiration from various Ugandan communities. For instance, the Bahima Collection SS24 pays homage to the Bahima people, featuring bold kimonos that reflect their rich traditions, while the KRMJ SS23 collection explored the way of life of the Karamoja.
Expanding beyond its signature ready-to-wear kimonos, Afro Muru is now introducing made-to-order shirts, pants, and skirts, launching in June. This new line reinterprets symbols from its past collections, further diversifying its offerings while staying rooted in cultural storytelling.
Beyond fashion, Afro Muru engages in artistic endeavors, including digital art and tapestry. Murungi's practice involves printing on materials and experimenting with symbolism, often incorporating upcycled fabrics into his creations. Through its innovative approach, Afro Muru not only promotes sustainable fashion but also celebrates and preserves Uganda's diverse cultural narratives.
Gogo Electric
What if Uganda's bustling streets were dominated by silent, efficient electric motorcycles? GOGO Electric is making that a reality! Originally founded as BODAWERK, this Ugandan company is leading the charge in sustainable mobility with electric motorcycles designed for African roads.
With a growing team of over 360 employees—40% of whom are women—GOGO Electric is building the future of transportation at its state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Kampala, where they produce lithium-ion battery packs and electric motorcycles.
Their bikes are a game-changer for boda boda riders and delivery businesses, cutting operational costs by 30% compared to petrol-powered alternatives. With over 2,000 e-bodas already on the road and a goal of reaching 5,000 operators by the end of 2025, GOGO Electric is driving Uganda into a cleaner, electricpowered future—one ride at a time!
24 hours in Arua
By Malelah
Jephtha Malelah is a Kenyan artist, traveller who has explored over 12 countries—mostly in Africa—social worker, and author of If Love Was A Poem (2021), Pieces of My African Soul (2019), and Rocks Bleed Too and Other Stories (2020).
I’ve yet to find a road more beautiful than the one in Uganda from Masindi to Murchison Falls National Park. Like a scene from a dreamy motion picture, it’s a splash of green with a canopy above, dense, refreshing air, and—if you're lucky—a glimpse of a giraffe or a band of antelopes.
Then comes the Pakwach Bridge, towering over the Nile—a place that always tugs at my history. Here, my ancestors parted ways, some settling in Kenya, others staying. When I reach Vurra’s final hills, descending into Arua, the city feels like an oasis—modern yet deeply intertwined with nature.
My arrival ritual never changes. My friends-turned-brothers greet me with the familiar Lugbara exchange: “Mi ngoni?”—“Ma muke!” Laughter follows, along with coarse jokes. This age-old greeting of Arua’s Lugbara people, a Sudanic tribe, is part of one of the most musical languages I’ve ever heard.
We head to Rojey Creamery, my goto 24/7 spot since I first discovered it years ago. Inside, bold murals, warm lighting, and soulful music create an inviting atmosphere. I sip a cappuccino, soaking it all in.
A New Day in Arua: Food and Nature
calls for food and nature. Breakfast is a feast—boiled maize, beans, pilau, spaghetti, caramelized onions, and avocado. All that? You might wonder. Yes, eaten communally with utmost camaraderie, paired with black tea. This five-star treatment comes from Joyce, a city legend in Indrifa, who serves this hearty anyoya from her backyard. Nearly everyone in Arua has tasted her cooking.
With full bellies, we head to Oluko Falls, a hidden gem just 10 minutes from the city. Once a local secret, its beauty captivated a missionary pilot who later bought land nearby, creating Arise Centre, a sanctuary overlooking the waterfall.
Evening and City Life
Back in the city, Hunter’s Nest is our evening retreat. Saturdays are special here—West Nile’s best pizza is served fresh, and we’ve become such regulars that the owner feels like family. As night falls, we retreat to House of Light, a hidden sanctuary with three selfcontained mansions—perfect for our board game marathons that stretch till dawn.
As dawn breaks, I realize my time in Arua is only beginning—and I can’t help but smile. This city in the greenery stole my heart. The warmth of its people, the buzz, the live music, the food, the nature, the growing modernity—I could get used to this.
Resident Special!
3-Nights/4-Day Uganda TrekkingGorilla
Calling all East African residents and citizens—this one’s for you! Have you always thought gorilla trekking was beyond your reach? We’ve designed a short but sweet, once-in-a-lifetime Gorilla Trekking experience just for you! Book now and be on your way to JKIA.
Day 1 - JKIA to Entebbe
Arrive at JKIA and jump on your short 1 hour flight to Entebbe. On arrival you will be transferred to a boutique guesthouse, just a 10-minute drive away. Enjoy the tropical garden & some light lunch before heading out to explore this charming lake side town. For sunset enjoy drinks & the bird life floating on the waters of Lake Victoria.
Day 2 - Forest Immersion
Your gorilla adventure begins with a scenic flight from
Entebbe to the Western region, the gateway to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Check in at our favourite woman’s initiative in Buhoma, your base for the next two nights. This day is all about settling in and soaking up the local culture, taking the time to explore the surroundings, interact with the community and learn about the region's rich biodiversity. As the day winds down, you will enjoy a delicious dinner and get a first briefing about tomorrow's gorilla trek.
Day 3 - Gorilla Trek
Early wake up call! After a further briefing by the guides,
you will venture into Bwindi and trek for one or two hours through the dense vegetation. Once you find your gorilla family, you will be allowed to spend a magical hour observing these gentle giants in their natural habitat, witnessing their human-like behaviors and family dynamics up close. Evening back at the Lodge, where you can relax and reflect on your extraordinary experience.
Day 4 - Back to Entebbe
On your final morning, you'll wake up to the sounds of the forest one last time. After breakfast, transfer to the
Airstrip for your return flight to Entebbe and connecting flight back to Nairobi.
$2150 per person for East African residents
$1550 per person for East African Citizens
Prices include return flights from Nairobi, B&B accommodation in Entebbe, Return Flights to Bwindi, Gorilla Permit, 2 nights on Full Board accommodation in Buhoma
Photos by Riccardo Zennaro and Uganda Wildlife Authority
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