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ISSUE 17| FREE COPY

ZANZIBAR THE SPICE ISLAND

TALES OF STONE TOWN

UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY

A FAMILY HITS THE ROAD


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a ir charter flights

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Close Earrings in Brass, Ebony & Leather Closure Collection @amidoshishah www.amidoshishah.com

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Daily flights to memorable locations like Malindi, Lamu, Mombasa and Zanzibar NOMAD MAGAZINE APRIL/MAY 2019 5 Book your easter getaway from www.fly540.com or call us on 0722/0733540540


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ED’S NOTE

The monkey that stole my Ethiopian coffee beans

W

hen I was six years old, I asked my dad to bring me some snow on a trip back from London.

“How am I going to carry that back here?” he asked, chuckling in bemusement. Gee...perhaps get a tiny little portable freezer just so as to please your only daughter? Needless to say, the only thing he brought me from that trip was several pretty dresses. I remember my parents, my mom especially, always being collectors. She had this large tin that was packed with coins brought back from her travels, the fridge was always dotted magnets from exotic places and don’t even get me started on her collection of Indian fabrics. As I go on more trips myself, I am realizing that I’m slowly plunging into this same sunken place, never mind that I’m actually a bit of a minimalist especially with spaces like my apartment. It’s not always the most practical souvenirs either. I never think, “I actually need a wine cork, and this hand carved one from Ubud will be just perfect.” Oh no no no. I am drawn to that heavy beaded dinosaur stuffed with ashes from an indigenous tree, blessed by the ancestors of that land and said to cure things like overthinking, lactose intolerance and maybe even infertility. Never mind that it’s probably going to be way above my weight limit at the airport, and the “ashes”

might be flagged as some illegal substance that gets me locked up in the next country. I have prized souvenirs, too, like an antique, bohemian, Morocan coffee set that I snagged from the owner of some hole-in-the-wall restaurant that I convinced to sell to me. My box of Ethiopian coffee beans was stolen from the table in my hotel room by a colobus monkey who proceeded to jeer at me from the top of a baobab tree all afternoon. I recently got spiced tea combos from a Zanzibari spice farm, mixes like cardamom-mango-and-lemongrass. All these purchases consciously made by me yet I don’t even like tea or coffee. Food can make for great souvenirs too, and some of my favourites to receive have been Swiss chocolates, Turkish baklava and dates from Oman. Ever notice, though, how much easier it is to splurge on overpriced goods when you’re paying in foreign currency? My most-recent purchase comes from the streets of Stone Town which we traveled to for this issue. I spotted various gentlemen playing a heated game of Bao on the streets and bought a set that’s been sitting on my coffee table for three weeks now - I am yet to even Google how to play it. For you, however, souvenirs come by way of all the exciting stories and photographs shared in this issue.

Wendy Watta

wattaonthego NOMAD ISSUE. 17 · APRIL/MAY 2019 · PUBLISHED BY WEBSIMBA LIMITED, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

MANAGING DIRECTOR MIKUL SHAH EDITOR WENDY WATTA DESIGN BRIAN SIAMBI SALES VANESSA WANJIKU CONTRIBUTORS SIMON MARSH, LEROY BULIRO, ANYIKO OWOKO, JACK WOOD, SAMANTHA DU TOIT, FRANCES WOODHAMS, FAITH KANJA CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS BRIAN SIAMBI, SAM VOX, NICK DALE, SUSAN MOLLOY DIGITAL, MARKETING & OPERATIONS DANIEL MUTHIANI, LEROY BULIRO, JANE NAITORE, FRED MWITHIGA, ANGELA OMONDI SALES ENQUIRIES CALL NOMAD 0711 22 22 22 EMAIL EDITOR@NOMADMAGAZINE.CO

NomadMagazineAfrica

@NomadMagAfrica

@NomadMagazineAfrica

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COVER IMAGE: STONE TOWN, ZANZIBAR SHOT BY BRIAN SIAMBI

APR MAY 2019

12 12. TOP SHOTS This month’s featured photographers capture a striking sunset in the wild and a charismatic gentleman in Lamu’s Old Town. 18. NEWS Africa’s largest ferris wheel is launched at Two Rivers mall, an Ethiopian Airlines flight crashes shortly after take off and a wildfire rages through Mt Kenya.

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20. WHATS ON From a wine extravaganza to this year’s Rhino Charge, find a round-up of must-attend events this season.

9. GET TO KNOW: NAI NAMI Who better to show one the streets of downtown Nairobi than the kids who used to live in those very streets and had to have their smarts about them to survive? 22. GLOBETROTTERS Underwater photographer Jahawi Bertolii talks about his time spent diving into the depths of the ocean in Sri Lanka to document marine life with the aim of shedding a light on their conservation.

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54. WHAT I PACK FOR MY TRAVELS Biko Adema is a renowned rugby sevens player who’s traveled the world and stolen the hearts of numerous sports fans in the process. Take a peek inside his carry-on bag for items he likes to bring on trips.


CONTENTS

FEATURES

30-42

30. TALES OF STONE TOWN Get lost with us in the maze-like streets of this charming historic town. Find everything you need to plan for your visit, from insights from our recent trip to secret insider know-how. 36. ISLAND IDYLL Said to be Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, Nungwi is always abuzz, understandably so. In between its beach strip with the array of hotels, read all about a favourite find, Kilindi Zanzibar, coupled with a parasailing adventure crowned by swimming with turtles. 40. WHERE TO STAY From North to South and East to West, a round-up of places to stay whatever the beach you’re looking to explore. 46. SPOTLIGHT ON: FLIP FLOPI The Flipflopi dhow sets off on a highly anticipated overseas expedition sailing from Lamu to Zanzibar with a bid to create a plastic revolution. 48. ROAD TRIPS: A FAMILY HITS THE ROAD Exploring ideas of where to go, Simon Marsh decides that a road trip up North, well beyond the usual tourist trail, might be a fun and unique way to spend a couple of weeks with his family. 52. SPOTLIGHT: KIMANA HOUSE Wandering around the beautiful, now-renovated four rooms of Kimana House, it is hard to believe that at the turn of 2018, it was still a dark and dreary space with ghastly tinted windows and a questionable choice of paint.

52 REGULARS 25. KENYAN TRAVELER Impressed by the mukeke, drums and jogging in Burundi, Anyiko Owoko writes that this has been her first time traveling to a place whose culture challenged her to learn more about her own. 28. NOTES FROM THE BUSH When a little warthog is discovered along a river, and with no mother in sight, Samantha Du Toit and her kids quickly take her in, but the joy this piglet brings might just be short lived. 50. BUDGET PICK: ROCKY ECO LODGE Most travel-loving Nairobians are no strangers to Naivasha, a place which, at the very least, has served as a pit-stop as you leave or drive back to the capital. In this town, Leroy Buliro finds a spot perfect for anyone traveling on a tight budget. 56. LAST WORD:WALKING TOUR Hamid takes visitors on a four hour walking tour of Stone Town, but will they really brave the heat for that long?

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CONTRIBUTORS

WE ASK OUR CONTRIBUTORS WHAT THEIR BEST OUT-OF-TOWN FOOD SPOTS ARE...

SAMANTHA DU TOIT Notes from the bush, Page 26

LEROY BULIRO Globetotters, Page 22

SIMON MARSH A family hits the road, Page 48

As a child my family loved picnics, and I can name many a shady tree where we stopped en route to a safari destination to have our egg sandwiches and coffee. But when asked to name a favourite non-picnic spot it would have to be the balcony of Nautilus Restaurant on Kilifi Creek. Set up on stilts, not much can surpass eating fresh tuna carpaccio with a cold glass of white wine while watching dhows sail by.

Nothing beats digging into some really good food while in a serene atmosphere that truly calms the mind. We had just finished exploring the amazing Tsavo East National Park and while driving along the coast, made a stop at Osteria Restaurant, right by the ocean’s shores in Malindi. That warm ocean breeze accompanied by a classic cheesy Italian pizza was hands down the highlight of the journey.

I always look forward to visiting Kobe in Watamu; it has a unique mixture of great ocean views, a laid back vibe and outstanding cuisine with a seafood focus. Large prawns with garlic are cooked to perfection and accompanied by tender calamari and the catch of the day, which just melts onto the fork. I like to combine with a glass of chilled pinot grigio and some finely chopped chillies, and the result is euphoric!

GET TO KNOW: NAI NAMI

The concept of Nai Nami (Swahili for ‘Nairobi with me’) is rather genius: who better to show one the streets of downtown Nairobi than the kids who used to live in those very streets and had to have their smarts about them to survive? The company currently employs seven guides, all former street kids, and using strengths such as storytelling and entertaining which they have honed naturally over the years, gives them an opportunity to make a better living. Their walking tours have so far been well

in the CBD. After the usual pleasantries were exchanged, we set off for Nairobi Railway Station, a place known to many as a bus stop with matatus heading to different parts of the city. Kissmart led the way with one guest while the other guest, our editor, walked behind with Mrembe. The other two guides then trailed behind, possibly for security. Mrembe launched into his life story, talking about how he ended up on the unforgiving streets of Nairobi as a child and had to raise himself by doing odd jobs such as collecting plastic from rubbish heaps. When he hit puberty, this soon gave way to theft, a decision that led to his best friend being gunned down at Bus Station. He himself was almost beaten to death by an angry mob when he was caught stealing. Their stories are much more complex than this space would received, with over 2,000 guests from over allow, but we were so engrossed in them that 75 countries having signed up within one year. When the Nomad team got an invite to we didn’t notice the two hours pass by, or check out the city from co-founder Gianmarco how much distance we had covered walking to OTC, Riverside, Kariokor market where we Marinello, we simply could not pass up the chance to get reacquainted with certain parts got some souvenirs, down to Ngara and back up to Moi Avenue where we finally stopped of Nairobi that we don’t get to visit as often for a hearty lunch at a kibanda. as we’d like. We had been linked up with four guides; Mrembe, Kissmart, Cheddar and Donga, and on the said day, met up right outside the Hilton Nairobi, a pretty central location

A suggestion is to ask for the itinerary beforehand, read up on the places then kick back and get immersed in the stories. www.nai-nami.com

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NICK DALE Instagram: @nickdalephotography There was a beautiful sunset and I took this shot using the settings: ISO 280, f/16 and 1/500. The most important factor for me when shooting this was the aperture as I wanted both the silhouette and sun to be sharp. I used a Nikon D850 and an 800mm lens perched on top of the bonnet of a safari truck! TIP: When taking this type of shot, it is important to keep the horizon very low in the frame.

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TOP SHOTS

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TOP SHOTS

SUSAN MOLLOY Instagram: @whatsusansees As I walked through Lamu Town’s maze of alleyways and artistic doorways, meeting this charismatic gentlemen was one of my favourite moments. He welcomed me to chat with him in the shade for a while. Realistically, it was mostly us laughing at my terrible Swahili before I asked if I could take a few portraits. For me, this shot represents the beauty of an unhurried life lived in this friendly, coastal community. I took this shot with a Canon 5d Mark III and a Canon 24-70 mm F/2.8 lens.

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www.maasai.com

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TOP SHOTS

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BRIAN SIAMBI Instagram: @brian.siambi There was a beautiful morning light as we were driving out of Kimana Sanctuary at 7:00am. It was the clearest day to see Mt. Kilimanjaro so I got out of the car and started capturing it. A few metres away, we saw some commotion and dust in the air, and driving a little further on, encountered a herd of elephants. This curious female stood and looked straight at us and I quickly grabbed my camera and got it in frame with the mountain in the background. The birds were a lucky occurence in the shot Shot with the Sony A7 and 70-200mm at F7.1, ISO 160, and 1/320. TIP: Always have your camera on standby when in the wild. Nature is quick and you won’t always have a second chance to capture an image.

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NEWS

AFRICA’S LARGEST FERRIS WHEEL LAUNCHED AT TWO RIVERS MALL This observation wheel dubbed “Eye of Kenya” is set to give one brilliant panoramic views of Nairobi’s expansive skyline. It is located at Two Rivers Mall along Limuru Road and boasts 40 air-conditioned cabins that have a seat capacity of six passengers each. The Eye of Kenya is the tallest ferris wheel in Africa at 60m above ground, surpassing the Cape Wheel in South Africa which stands at 40m. Get to enjoy this iconic addition to the city’s attractions by paying Ksh 500 per person. The wheel does two revolutions which take a total of 14 minutes.

ETHIOPIAN AIRLINES PLANE CRASHES SHORTLY AFTER TAKE OFF This devastating crash happened six minutes after take off, leaving no survivors when the Ethiopian Airlines Boeing 737 MAX 8 plane crashed while on its way from Bole International Airport in Ethiopia to Kenya’s Capital, Nairobi. Investigations into the cause of the accident are still on-going as several countries suspend the Boeing 737 MAX 8 planes. The aircraft was carrying 149 passengers from at least 35 nationalities as well as eight crew members. Another plane of the same model was involved in a crash less than five months ago when a Lion Air flight crashed into the sea near Indonesia with nearly 190 people on board.

WILDFIRE DEVASTATION IN MT. KENYA A multi-agency team successfully managed to put out a fire in Mt Kenya Forest. The week-long wildfire destroyed approximately 120,000 hectares of vegetation and killed wildlife. Mt Kenya region is an important water catchment area for Kenya and also hosts national parks and various conservancies. The inferno that reportedly started near Lake Ellis in Tharaka-Nithi County spread to parts of Embu, Laikipia and Kirinyaga counties. The Kenya Forest Service boss said investigations were underway to establish the cause of the fire but they were not ruling out poachers, illegal honey harvesters and bhang farmers as some of the possible causes. A big thank you to the environment and forests ministries, Kenya Defence Forces, British Army Training Unit, Tropic Air, Mt Kenya Trust, Kisima Farm, Lewa Conservancy, Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Rhino Ark for battling and successfully putting out the huge wildfires.

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WHAT’S ON

SOKOKE FOREST MTB CHALLENGE This biking safari initiative is geared towards conservation of the exotic Arabuko Sokoke Forest in Watamu, Kilifi County. The race stands to offer a perfect blend of challenge and thrilling adventure... the picturesque sights and sounds are just a bonus. A 70 km challenge will take place on 4th May while a 15 km fun day will be held on 5th May. A great deal of cash prizes will be up for grabs. For more information and registration details, check out SOKOKE MTB CHALLENGE on Facebook.

RHINO CHARGE 2019 The Rhino Charge is an annual off-road 4×4 competition held in Kenya to raise funds to support the activities of the Rhino Ark Kenya Charitable Trust, an NGO which works towards the conservation and protection of Kenya’s mountain range ecosystems. This year’s event takes place from 30th May to 2nd June. Tickets are only available from the Rhino charge website ticketing portal (www.rhino-charge.org), which closes on 24th May. General location details will be shared by the Clerk of Course during the pre-event briefing on 4th May 2019. The exact location will be revealed to registered ticket holders the night before the event; the venue is usually kept a secret.

WINE EXTRAVAGANZA The second edition of the Wine and Beer Extravaganza will be held on Saturday April 6, 2019 at the Leleshwa Getaway in Rongai from 11:00 am till late. The Wine tasting affair presents you with an opportunity to sample over 50 wines, champagnes and gourmet food while also undergoing wine training and jamming to live DJ music. Build your wine knowledge and enjoy your glass, all while overlooking the Nairobi National Park. Entry is free. For more details, contact 0722 528 749.

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EASTER WEEKEND AT LANTANA GALU BEACH | DIANI BEACH Offering an array of fun activities for the whole family to enjoy From 19th to 22nd April 2019 Free Scuba Diving Trials at the pool with Scubaduka Free Afternoon Activities for Children Free Kite Surfing Trials with the Kenya Kitesurfing School

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+254 714 315 151 | info@lantana-galu-beach.co.ke | www.lantana-galu-beach.co.ke

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CAPTURING THE

UNDERWORLD Kenyan-Italian photographer Jahawi Bertolii talks to Nomad’s Leroy Buliro about his time spent diving into the depths of the ocean to document marine life with the aim of shedding a light on their conservation.

How did you get into underwater photography? One day while filming a music video, we needed an underwater shot of someone jumping into a pool so I went in with a GoPro and my cousin, the talented director Phillipa Herrmann, joked that I should venture into underwater photography as there was no one doing it in Kenya. A few months later, I was sitting in my studio writing music for some beautiful footage when my frustration at being trapped in landlocked Nairobi came to its pinnacle. I decided that I wanted to be out there, within nature, filming, and not stuck in a studio. Once that project was completed, I moved to Thailand and enrolled in an underwater cinematography course…and that’s how I got behind a camera. Which has been your most exciting assignment yet? Hunting down photos of blue whales in Sri Lanka which is an interesting place for

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cetaceans because it is one of the few places that has a resident population of Blue Whales alongside many other species. The nutritious upwelling of plankton and krill at the drop off of the continental shelf in the south of the island makes it possible to support these massive creatures year round. For the best chance of photographing blue whales, Sri Lanka was the place to go. It is also a very culturally interesting place with superb waves for surfing. When did you finally get to see some blue whales in Sri Lanka? On our first day, we were woken up by the owner of the guest house where we were staying. “There are huge numbers of whales being spotted,” she said in excitement. We hadn’t planned anything for that day given that it was our first morning. The day was dark and cloudy and the water an eerie gun metal grey. The lack of sun meant that the krill were closer to the surface providing a huge feast for the whales; this was however

not the best weather for photography. The whales were close to the coastline and when we found them, we realised that the boat was surrounded by at least 15 feasting blue whales; even with all their years of experience, the crew had never seen so many together! We spent some time just watching them to see their behaviour and once the captain was convinced it was safe, I decided to take the plunge. How was the first dive? The water was very murky and visibility was poor. Swimming on, I came across a bubble trail left by one of the whales that had a 6 metre wide tail. Water visibility was bad and it was impossible to get a good shot. The water was 1 km deep and 500 metres long, cargo ships were moving silently through the mist... not the best conditions, so we called it a day and went back to shore deciding to wait a few more days for better conditions. This was actually one of the only times I’ve ever felt really uneasy in the water.


GLOBETROTTERS

Did you get another photo opportunity? Definitely. We spent the next week exploring the southern part of the island and when conditions improved, headed back out to the open ocean again. From radio chatters, we heard that the whales were quite far off the coast - about 30 nautical miles - so we motored out into the blue which took about 3 hours. We eventually found one as the sun was getting low. The best way to get a chance to capture these gentle giants is to get in the water in front of them and let them swim to you. There were many unfruitful attempts. Knowing we had a long trip home, the captain said there was one more chance to get underwater. I jumped and swam as fast as I could to reach where I estimated the whale was heading only to see a huge tail disappear into the blue, for a moment I thought I had missed my opportunity and then I turned to see another whale coming straight at me following the first!

The moment passed by in slow motion as the largest animal ever to have lived on this planet glided through the water in front of me before disappearing as quickly as it had arrived. What’s another set of memorable shots that you have ever taken? We filmed a short documentary in Lamu for the Lamu Marine Conservation Trust. A strong part of the narrative was turtle conservation and we needed a shot of a newly hatched turtle wading into the ocean for the first time. For months I went out to hatchings to try get the shot but ocean conditions were always either difficult or visibility was bad. Trying to follow something so small also proved impossible. One morning after 6 months, the sea was calm and visibility was good. I managed to find and stay with a baby turtle that had just hatched and filmed a sequence of its first few moments in the

ocean, and that moment will stay with me forever. What lies next for you this year? I just received great news that a project I’ve been working on has been approved for a National Geographic Society grant, which is amazing and pretty much a dream come true! This will be part of a larger project we’re setting up called East African Ocean Explorers where we want to inspire a new generation of explorers who will champion marine conservation and act as an inspiration to young people in their communities. We want to provide a platform for passionate people to be able to explore and learn more about the ocean providing workshops, educational films and funding for young Kenyans from coastal communities to be able to get in the ocean; whether that’s learning how to snorkel, taking a diving course or going on whale watching trips.

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Tel: +254 (0) 723 697 346 || Email: info@mbh.co.ke www.msambweni-beach-house.com


A KENYAN TRAVELLER

TALES FROM

BUJUMBURA

A

Impressed by the mukeke, drums and jogging in Burundi while in the country to attend a traditional wedding, Anyiko Owoko writes that this has been her first time traveling to a place whose culture challenged her to learn more about her own.

s I plan my first trip to Burundi, where I am to attend a friend’s traditional wedding, I don’t know what to expect when I arrive because I haven’t heard much about the culture and food, the two things I’m always drawn to when I travel. I am however excited and ready to immerse myself in everything this landlocked country will have to offer. It’s a five hour flight from Nairobi and when we arrive at around 5:00 pm, which would typically be rush hour in Nairobi, it is so refreshing to be met by clear roads. Bujumbura is a small city and most of its residents don’t own personal cars. I am immediately drawn to its scenic hills and mountains, which I have thus far only seen featured in several popular music videos by the country’s local artists, an area of interest to me given that I often work with musicians. I quickly notice how the residents of Bujumbura are often out jogging at all times of the day, running up and down the curved turns of the city’s winding roads. Burundians actually have a long history of jogging tracing back to bleak times when the country was in war and conflict. For years, citizens used jogging as a means of expression against political oppression. Since then, jogging has been so ingrained into their

culture that today it is a hobby for many Burundians. In recent years, the country’s President Pierre Nkurunziza banned jogs involving thousands of people. To jog in a large group, you must first join a jogging club or register with the government, after which you must pick one of the pre-approved venues. The culture and food are also quite rich and mind blowing. Burundians speak Kirundi, Swahili and French. Having been colonized by the French, some of those influences are still prevalent in their food and love for good wine. Whether you are at a five-star hotel or downtown, you must simply sample Lake Tanganyika’s Sleek lates fish known locally as mukeke, famed for its natural delicious flavour and the fact that it is only found in Lake Tanganyika. For lunch on our first day, we visit Roca Golf Hotel in the heart of Bujumbura for the best grilled Mukeke served in mouth-watering amaranth leaves locally known as lenga-lenga. Later in the evening we visit Bwiza area in downtown Bujumbura where we have michopo—Senegalese-style grilled goat meat served with a hot sauce made from red chillies, lime and spices. Both michopo and mukeke are often eaten with sticky ugali made from cassava flour. The traditional wedding I am attending at The Atrium, nestled right by the shores of

Lake Tanganyika, is a very cultural affair. In the first phase, for instance, ladies dress up in traditional attire called imvutano. Entertainment is a lively number reminiscent of the Rwandese traditional dance, where the dancers raise their hands in regal postures as though they were royal birds. Traditional drumming is also so prominent here that you need to get a permit to be allowed to have drummers even at a private function. With a selection of over 25 big drums accompanied by a talented team of male drummers at my friend’s wedding, this is certainly a very prestigious function. My trip sparks several questions regarding my own culture and how much tradition still plays a role in our everyday lives back in Kenya. Upon returning, I’ve been curious to find out what people from my tribe, the Luo, would wear and do during traditional ceremonies like weddings. It has been surprising that my mother doesn’t know much about this because even during her heydays, she says ceremonies were pretty basic. This has been my first time traveling to a place whose culture challenged me to learn more about my own. Do you have a story you would like featured in this column? Email a detailed pitch to editor@nomadmagazine.co

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YUMMY

WHITE 26 56

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YUMMY

SANDS A sanctuary of peace and intimacy, Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa is a boutique luxury resort situated on the beachfront Paje beach, in Zanzibar. It includes 11 high-end villas and 3 Cinnamon rooms, nestled within lush gardens, facing 200 meters of pristine beachfront. A stay in Zanzibar is all about being outdoors and we offer activities and excursions. Enjoy Swahili cuisine at one of our three restaurants and enjoy cocktails in the afternoon in our beach bar. residents’ rate special* - april and may 2019 From $100 per person

Includes B&B, 1hr of stand up paddle/kayak rental per person per day; bicycle rental and steam room use.

Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa P.O. Box 2115 Paje beach, Zanzibar, Tanzania +255 776 263 451 www. whitesandvillas.com Information and reservations reservations@whitesandvillas.com +44 207 193 2716 Terms & conditions apply

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NOTES FROM THE BUSH

SQUEAK THE

WILD PIGLET

When a little warthog is discovered along a river, and with no mother in sight, Samantha Du Toit and her kids quickly take her in, but the joy this piglet brings might just be short lived.

I

t is very hard to reason with a three-day old warthog. Despite her tiny size, Squeak was a fierce and feisty piglet who definitely knew her own mind from the minute she arrived in our lives. One hot afternoon in January, the children and I were seeking out shade in their play/classroom tent when Kibai (our Maasai daytime watchman) came rushing up to us holding the tiny hog. She was squealing most indignantly as he hurriedly handed her over to me. I noticed she still had her umbilical cord, making her only a few days old at the most. Kibai had been walking along the banks of the river just upstream from camp and had found the little warthog on the side of the river amongst a troop of baboons. When no mother appeared after some time, he picked her up and brought her to us. The kids were excited, but we decided she needed to be given back to her mother as soon as possible. Without a moment’s thought we carried her back to where she had been found, with her objecting, gnashing her teeth and biting me at every opportunity. We placed her on the ground, where she collapsed into a heap, still squealing. We stepped back and hoped her mother would come. It was only then I realised that perhaps I should have thought this through as I was not sure what

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an angry mother warthog might do in such a situation. Placing the children behind a tree, we waited. No mother came. My heart was torn. What now? I have always believed that ‘Mother Nature knows best’, and have refrained from interfering with wild animals at all costs. Surely there must be some reason why this little creature is out here, away from the safety of a burrow? But the longer we stood there, the more chance it seemed that she might die alone there, as we watched. I looked at the children, looking to me to decide, and knew we could not walk away. We picked her up and took her back to camp. And so, the second ‘what now’ of the day hit me. How does one raise a new-born warthog? Many hours of internet searching, calling patient veterinary friends and family followed. The children did their best, making her a small ‘burrow’ in a wine cooler-bag, trying to decide how to keep her warm and helping with the feeding from a small syringe we had in the medical kit. It turned out that the general consensus was that goat’s milk was the best option, and Kibai kindly offered to provide an unlimited supply from his home every day. She was soon named ‘Squeak’ by the children, who worked around the clock to care for her. Well, the daytime clock at least. I took on the night time routine of three hourly feeds.

It was a steep learning curve, not least learning to appreciate that wild animals are completely different from their domestic cousins. It should have seemed obvious perhaps, but Squeak was a very wild animal, accepting comfort and food only with her tiny feet firmly on the ground. We learned that, even in the days that followed where she had learned we were ‘family’ she still would not tolerate being picked up. That made sense as the only time in the wild this would happen is if she were being carried off in the mouth of a predator. Over the five days that followed, Squeak appeared at first to be doing well. However, on the morning of the sixth day, she was listless and weak. By the afternoon it was clear she was unlikely to make it through another night. I took her to a quiet place where she was too weak to object as I held her close until she slipped away. We still often talk about Squeak, and certainly feel we were privileged to have had her to care for and learn from, but I do hope that Mother Nature takes care of her own for the foreseeable future. Samantha du Toit is a wildlife conservationist, working with SORALO, a Maasai land trust. She lives with her husband, Johann, and their two children at Shompole Wilderness, a tented camp in the Shompole Conservancy.


Nestled in the foothills of Mt Kenya, award-winning accommodation 40 minutes from Nanyuki, endless opportunities to relax, reconnect with nature and the special people in your life. Now offering half-day horse riding safaris into the neighbouring 36,000 acre, privately-owned wildlife conservancy. Proud to be #1 of 21 on TripAdvisor, B&Bs/Inns of Laikipa County

For rates contact us at welcome@olepangifarm.com | We also offer resident rates | www.olepangifarm.com OlePangi.indd 1

02/04/2019 14:26

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30TH - 31ST MARCH 2019 Great beer, food and company were all the rage at ‘The White Cap Big Brunch’ event which took place in Diani on the 21st & 22nd March. Restaurant managers, influencers & the White Cap team were all in attendance for the adventure filled brunch part of the White Cap Big Brunch series, all of which led to the Big Brunch weekend on the 30th & 31st of March, courtesy of Kenya Breweries Limited and Eatout Kenya. With some of the best restaurants in Nairobi & Mombasa participating, the weekend was filled with beer, laughs and brunch. If you missed out, have no fear: More adventures and brunch weekends are coming your way soon!

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8 Ways

to do brunch right

Get There Early there’s nothing worse than going late for brunch on an empty stomach and finding it packed. be the smarter one, grab the prettiest table and enjoy your brunch with no stress

Cab It the white cap big brunch is probably going to be a boozy one, so make sure you’ve got your cab apps ready. drink responsibly

Go In A Group sure, a romantic brunch could be a thing, but we believe that brunch is an experience for friends. grab your crew and make it a special day!

Experiment yes, we know you have your usual that you pick every. single. time. but come on, it’s a special weekend! go outside your Comfort Zone

Let the Sweet & Savoury Combine the best thing about brunch is how it’s a common ground for both. relish in it, it’s one of the few times you can! chicken wings with honey covered pancakes? yes!

Enjoy Your White Cap COMPLETE YOUR BRUNCH WITH AN ICE- COLD WHITE CAP LAGER, PERFECT FOR WASHING DOWN ALL THAT DELICIOUSNESS.

Leave A Review your review will definitely help others figure out where they should go so please, leave a review!

Tip Well brunch can be a crazy time for servers, so show a little appreciation and tip well!

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TEXT: WENDY WATTA PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

TALES FROM

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W

e are standing outside the Old Fort when Taib, with suspicious enthusiasm, launches into a colourful story about an Arab princess called Salme. Suspicious, because how someone can be so chipper in this heat is beyond me; I can already feel a migraine start to throb within the crevices of my brain thanks to the sun mercilessly hammering at it. As he drones on, pausing ever so slightly to adjust his kofia, I momentarily halt my frantic self-fanning antics as I am gently transported to a Stone Town of 1866, when this fort upon whose walls I now lean would have been used as a garrison and prison. Merchants, I imagine, would have been haggling about the price of a kilo of cloves, a teenage slave hopelessly marching behind his brother towards an uncertain tomorrow, an adventurer setting foot on ‘zinj-bar’ soil for the first time fresh off the boat from a faraway land, and for Princess Salme, utterly scared of the whispers in the palace and her brother the Sultan’s reaction to finding out that she was pregnant by their German neighbour. Shortly after, she flees this homeland having been rejected by her people for her choice in a lover. Once in Hamburg, her name is no longer Salme but Emily Ruete, and while she gets baptised as a christian, she secretly dreads going to church and adamantly refuses to eat pork. Through this woman’s story, 19th century Stone Town fascinates me because of how different the society and culture are from present day. I wonder what life would have been like for me, an African woman. Despite being born into vast wealth, the youngest of a Sultan’s thirty children, Salme still has to secretly teach herself how to write because this skill is not taught to women. Imagine, then, the policing of friends, fashion, marriage, entertainment, work and the works. I am drawn out of my reverie by a cat - these lanky felines that slink proudly along the verandahs, and when you come face to face, it is you that has to move out of the way. This being my second visit to Stone Town, hiring Taib to take us on a walking tour was a smart idea. My first visit, I’m afraid, was wasted, because I mostly wandered around the streets overwhelmed by the beauty with no real insight into the rich history. Much like Lamu Old Town, the pathways are narrow and maze-like, lined with curio shops and art dealers, and after a couple of turns, start to blend into one another in their similarity. Brightly coloured scooters whizz past. Women swathed in colourful kangas or beautiful buibuis gracefully sashay along with handwoven baskets in hand. Gentlemen perched on barazas play a complex board game of bao, the winner clapping animatedly and talking smack to his opponent, and I am so intrigued I that I buy a set. Distinguishing between the beautiful intricately carved Arab and Indian doors, some pastel and others with shiny golden brass studs, becomes a fun pastime. If a place ever so deserved to be called charming, it would be this town. I fall in love with its very essence, African, Arab, Indian, Persian and European influences distinct in everything from the people to the mosques, churches, bazaars, architecture and food. Stone Town is picture perfect, the heat notwithstanding.

THE STONE TOWN LOW DOWN FOR COFFEE: JAW’S CORNER

We were actually lost when we first wandered onto this street where four of the town’s winding alleys intersect, but we stayed for the people watching. It is hard to miss, distinguished by a large painting-on-the-wall of the poster of that classic 1975 Steven Spielberg movie. Here, a mzee brews strong, black, Arabic-style coffee in steel kettles balanced precariously over a small charcoal stove. The beverage is cheap and flows almost as freely as the gossip, and there is a high chance you will be roped into a debate about anything from football to the weather. Should you wish to call your online lover living somewhere in Sweden or Thailand, there is a long pole with an old phone and a cheeky sign announcing “free international calls”.

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FOR ICE CREAM: TAMU GELATERIA ITALIANA

We may have only been in Stone Town for two nights but we stopped by this spot so much - at first to find solace from the heat but pretty soon like a pair of hopeless crackheads in need of a fix - that we were on a first name basis with the waitress. The walls are decked in photos from around town and the refreshing gelatos are made from real fruit. Local flavours include coconut, tamarind, hibiscus, passion and baobab. They were so addictive, in fact, that I walked from my hotel room in pajamas at 10:00pm to go get a scoop; a pathetic sight, I am certain, but my taste buds were quite pleased.

FOR ZANZIBAR PIZZA: MR MANGO’S STAND AT FORODHANI GARDENS

This is a glorious seafront night market bustling with tourists and locals alike, with numerous vendors selling local dishes all being cooked on the spot. The seafood is oh so seductively spread out, but because it’s not always refrigerated, to try these would be to set a date with food poisoning. You should however definitely try Zanzibar pizza, and Mr Mango’s stand is the place to go. To be honest, his signature mango-nutella combo is more like a crepe than a pizza, but it sure is downright delicious. To his left, a vendor sells freshly squeezed sugar cane juice to wash down your food with, and if you’re still hungry, because you’re a glutton, a lady to his right sells a spicy Zanzibar mix also known as urojo. We were told that this market is a tourist trap since the same food is much cheaper at Darajani, but I liked the vibe so much I didn’t mind the snare. If you’re here before sunset, entertainment will be by way of local boys diving from the perimeter wall into the sea below.

FOR COCKTAILS: THE BEACH HOUSE

This modern upscale bar and restaurant is said to have some of the best sunset views, but both times I’ve been there have unfortunately been after dark. It has a multicultural millennial staff and the menu offers an array of excellent gin-based cocktails infused with Zanzibar’s popular spices. On this visit, we sat on the outdoor terrace - the best spot in the house - where there was remix to the Game of Thrones theme song playing. Some local guys were playing a lively game of football on the sand below and after two ginpassion-and-saffron cocktails, I had to be held back to stop me from joining.

FOR SPICES: JAMBO SPICE FARM

Herbs and spices were initially introduced to Zanzibar by Portuguese traders from their colonies in India and South America in the 16th century. During the Omani rule, cloves were actually more valuable than their weight in gold. We drove for a little over 10km from the town center to an organic farm where we learnt how the spices got to the island, how they are grown as well as their uses, some of which we had never considered before. We were smelling, tasting and collecting spices like cloves, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, cinnamon, turmeric, vanilla, pepper, cardamom and more. I love using spices in my kitchen...cooking without any is like hosting a party with no music. I have only ever seen some of them ground, which made the tour all the more interesting. Fresh whole nutmeg for instance opens up like a jewellery box and the seed sits inside like an exotic ring, and I was just about to say yes to this unexpected marriage proposal until our guide told us that the spice is actually “like a viagra for women”, at which I very slowly backed away. It was only 10:00am for heaven’s sake. At the end of the tour we came to a stand selling packaged spices and soaps as well as interesting spiced tea combinations. We loaded up by the kilos.

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ZANZIBAR PHOTOGRAPHS: SAM VOX

LOCAL KNOW-HOW What makes Stone Town a photographer’s paradise? It is naturally a very photogenic place, with its beautiful heritage buildings, the narrow streets and the beach (Forodhani). To me it’s a place of identity. I love the Swahili Arab culture which is my ethnic background. Here, I can learn more about my history and have a deeper understanding of our traditions and the people. What’s your go-to spot for lunch? Ma Shaa Allah Cafe or Lukmaan Restaurant which offer every day authentic Zanzibari dishes using an array of local spices.

What are some hidden gems in Stone Town? Mrembo Spa is my little sanctuary when I need to rejuvenate and recharge. They use traditional remedies and natural product. My favourite masseuse is Asha who is legally blind but is amazing at what she does. There are also so many talented Zanzibari carpenters in town that create amazing woodwork but are often overlooked in the midst of all the imported souvenir stores. My favourites are Suleiman and his team inside the Old Fort. What are your go-to foodie spots around town? For breakfast, Foro Cafe at Forodhani Gardens because it’s inexpensive and the food is really good. Secret Garden at Emerson Spice is a great spot for lunch- the ambiance really transports you back in time. My favourite dish there is the coconut seafood curry. At Ma Shaa Allah Cafe, the prices are affordable and I love their Indian twist to Swahili food. What’s your go-to beach when you need a break from Stone Town? I like Kendwa beach because its picturesque although it can get very busy. I would go for Michamvi, Matemwe and Bwejuu. While the sea is tidal on the East Coast, it tends to be less crowded than the north coast. Any tips for first time visitors? Unless you’ve done considerable research beforehand, do a guided Stone Town tour with a registered company. It will give you a sense of direction and better understanding of the history and culture of Zanzibar. Spend at least two nights immersing yourself in the food and culture here before heading off to explore the rest of the archipelago.

What’s your go-to beach when you need a break from Stone Town? A favorite is a hidden beach in Mwangapwani. It’s only there for a short period of time depending on the day and tide. The waters are beautiful and clear, and it’s a perfect spot for cliff jumping. Any insider tip you would like to share with someone visiting Zanzibar for the first time? Get lost, wander around and be present. If possible, get a local guide. Stone Town is one of those places with a deep history and culture and you could easily walk by vital landmarks without knowing their significance to the island. A local will help you understand the everyday life of the people. What’s your favourite place to photograph in Stone Town? I can never tire of Forodhani beach. To me, it’s the one place that brings the Island together, especially on weekends. I love seeing families come out in their beautiful matching clothes having traveled from nearby villages for a day out at the beach. Occasions like this are what makes this island special and I like being here to document it all.

SAM VOX, Photographer

HAFSA MBAMBA

Owner, Grassroots Traveller (They set up our tours around Stone Town)

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ISLAND IDYLL

Said to be Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, Nungwi is always abuzz, understandably so. In between its beach strip which stretches into Kendwa, amidst the array of hotels both grand and cheerfully cheap, Kilindi Zanzibar redefines luxury in this quaint fishing village. TEXT: WENDY WATTA PHOTOGRAPHS: BRIAN SIAMBI

“You can dance, you can jiiiive, having the time of your life...diggin’ the dancing queen!”

I

mooch about the grand villa which is far too spacious for just me, singing embarrassingly off-key at the top of my lungs, certain no one will hear me because of how spread apart the 15 villas at Kilindi Zanzibar are. Carried away, I imagine I am Meryl Streep in Mamma Mia and jump onto the four poster bed with childlike glee then spring up as though on a trampoline, but quickly remember that I can’t do a split mid-air and this bed might break under my weight, in which case, it wouldn’t matter how understanding the people here are - I would have to pay. I have been playing Abba’s Dancing Queen in a loop ever since finding out that Kilindi Zanzibar was built as a private home for one of the bandmates before being converted into a resort. It is now under the management of Elewana Collection, and for that I am glad. Bosomed within the forested folds of Nungwi, it is hard not to love this property. The slatted door of my palatial bedroom opens up to a full-moon plunge pool which overlooks an indigenous forest that stretches out to waters docked by various traditional double-outrigger canoes called ngalawa.

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Here, you can wear a bikini and laze by the beach all day and yet a monkey might swing by your room from the bush to say hello, and I like that juxtaposition.

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ZANZIBAR Here, you can wear a bikini and laze by the beach all day and yet a monkey might swing by your room from the bush to say hello, and I like that juxtaposition. The white-washed pavilions are very European; Scandinavian minimalism meets the curved roofs of Santorini’s domes complete with bougainvillea flowers in full bloom along the pathways. The bathroom housed in its own building comes with a rainshower and sink-with-a-view, and is big enough to host a small conference. As I potter between this and my room, clothes quickly become burdensome. Keen to seek refuge from the heat after every trip from the beach, my only predicament is whether to use the fan or let trade winds do the cooling. Guests are assigned their very own butler and we get Victoria who comes with heaps of the renowned Swahili hospitality and a side of wit. Dinner on the first night is right by the T-shaped pool, and just when we thought things couldn’t possibly get better than that, on the second night, we get our own secluded spot by the beach. The meals here are absolutely divine. Ugali is elevated way above its pay grade in an amuse bouche that mashes in potatoes and tops that off with a flavour-packed beetroot puree. The seafood is fresh and whispery with local spices, and Victoria always seems to appear with a drink as soon as you think about one (she does this throughout our stay, and I am completely convinced that she’s a mind reader). After dinner, a guard pushes the pan with the log fire even closer to the water and Victoria brings out bean bags to snuggle in. Looking out at the stars and the sea glimmering in the shadows, if an experience ever so deserved to be called magical, this would be it. Conversation wanes as we drift in and out of slumber before everyone retreats to their villas at 1:00pm. If we had no activities planned for the following day, we would have been content to sleep on this beach till the morning. In fact, I have now decided that Kilindi is where I will be coming for my honeymoon. I suppose I still need to meet the guy first, but let’s not get caught up on the minor details. Along with Kendwa, the fishing village of Nungwi is said to be Zanzibar’s most-popular beach, understandably so. The water is such a saturated turquoise that should you only see it in a postcard, you would think it were fake. It is also perfect for swimming in whatever the time; there are no tides. The sunsets are spectacular enough to turn even the most articulate poet into a baby-talking goop. The shoreline is always docked by dhows and if you visit in the morning, you can always chat up the fishermen for tales from the sea. It is idyllic living, and we were warned that it would be crowded, if only because numerous hotels occupy the same stretch of beach from Nungwi to Kendwa. The only place where we saw a lot of people was however at the latter beach which has gained a reputation as the home of epic full moon parties.

PARASAILING

Zanzibar Parasailing run by Johann, a South African who retired from the corporate world to open this busy water sport/ accommodation/ party central combo, is set in Kendwa which is only a five minute walk from Kilindi Zanzibar. After cheerful pleasantries are exchanged, we hop onto a small raft which takes us to the parasailing boat. I am then harnessed and tethered to a bright red parachute and from the back deck of the boat, the rope is released and I take flight into the sky like a bird. Gliding gently behind the boat to a height of about 250m, wind against my face and with curious swimmers and sunbathers gazing up at me in the distance, I can’t help but think that this is exactly what my drone would be recording if I launched it up these northern shores. “I’m flying, Jack!” Literally. No previous experience is necessary and a flight lasts about 10 minutes which, when you’re cruising mid-air, feels like an hour. It costs about $90 for a tandem flight and $130 for a solo flight. Visit www.zanzibarparasailing.com to find out what

other water sports are offered here. The vibe back at their dive center is so lively that I could have hung out with this community for the rest of the afternoon, but that cold hibiscus cocktail at Kilindi wasn’t going to drink itself.

CONSERVATION: SWIMMING WITH TURTLES

I have been so eager to swim with these turtles all afternoon, but now, finally face to face with them while crouching at the entrance to this tidal pond watching them paddle hard in a race to reach the food which has just been thrown in by one of the attendants, I am unexpectedly timid. First of all, their number is overwhelming. I can spot at least 15 of all sizes and ages. After a little coaxing from Nomad’s photographer Brian, who has himself settled on paying only the $7 required to simply watch and feed them (it costs $10 to swim with them), I decide to take a deep breath and walk into the cold water. Eager to feed on the seagrass which has just been thrown in and perhaps a little keen to play as well, the turtles come rushing towards me and I can suddenly feel their flippers and shells rubbing against my skin under the water as they swim about. I find their touch ticklish and can’t help but laugh and squeal every time they brush against me. Once I get comfortable, however, there is no getting me out. Looking at these gentle creatures, it is hard to imagine them being caught in fishermen’s nets which is how a lot of them often die, or being hunted for their meat. Places like Baraka Natural Aquarium exist to provide a refuge for rescued turtles and are often involved in research, conservation and re-release into the sea. We are the only guests at the pond and I would thereby suggest visiting later in the day after the crowds have wandered off.

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WHERE TO STAY

Photography: Brian Siambi and Respective Properties

NORTH COAST ZURI ZANZIBAR

Choose from 55 west-facing bungalows, suites and villas overlooking the beach and close to the mesmerising azure waters of the sea. Designed to provide the ultimate in coziness, equipped with a mixture of contemporary and local furniture and decorated with African artwork, they come with an option of outdoor showers, jacuzzi, a private stretch of beach and more, a unique experience of indoor/outdoor living. Zuri Zanzibar offer a fusion of European, African, Arabic and Indian cuisine, creating a rainbow of sensational flavours at their three restaurants and four bars. Everything from yoga, wellness, a swimming pool and beach to spice gardens, an indoor and outdoor “wild fitness� gym area and a library are at your disposal. Rates on request. www.zurizanzibar.com

FLAME TREE COTTAGES

This small, independent, family-run beachfront hotel lies on the beautiful turquoise coastline of Nungwi. It is ideally situated for swimming, snorkeling and diving. Mnemba Atoll, just a short boat trip away, is one of the best diving spots in the world. If you fancy some dynamic hatha and vinyasa flow yoga, head to the rooftop for a sunrise or sunset session- the sunsets here are some of the most spectacular on the island, and you can also settle for taking it all in from the cozy beach bar. The hotel lies within a beautiful private tropical garden and has a range of rooms and cottages to choose from. Low season offers start at $160 for direct bookings only. www.flametreecottages.com

MAKUTI ROOF ON THE BEACH

A room high up on stilts under a traditional Makuti roof and right on Kendwa Beach in front of Zanzibar Parasailing Clubhouse with great views over the Kendwa bay. It is an open air room with coconut wooden walls to protect your privacy, and has a double bed, sofa, table and locker. The front side is open which looks directly to the sea. The room is part of a watersports centre which has a bar and kitchen facilities and bathrooms are communal, shared with clients of the watersports centre, and are situated towards the back of the clubhouse away from the room. An unobstructed view of the sunsets and beach is the main attraction here. Rates from $30. Bookings only via airbnb.

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STONE TOWN ZANZIBAR SERENA HOTEL

The hotel is comprised of two historic buildings designed in traditional Swahili style, a lavish retreat that captures the elegance of a grander era since passed. An ambience of relaxed sophistication has been created in each of the 51 rooms and suites, with wood-framed louver doors opening onto private balconies with unobstructed views of the ocean. Cool white walls, high-ceilings and crisp royal blues and whites give a sense of Zanzibar’s coastal serenity and charm. The rooftop Terrace Seafood Restaurant offers freshly-caught seafood and extraordinary views of the bay while weekly authentic Swahili banquets can be enjoyed by the pool at Baharia Restaurant. Masahani Bar, on the other hand, offers signature cocktails and live performances by local Taarab bands. www.serenahotels.com

EMERSON SPICE

This boutique hotel consists of three adjoining World Heritage site buildings in the exotic Kasbah of Zanzibar’s Stonetown. Two of the facades face a quaint square at the end of historic Tharia Street, a principal thoroughfare for walking tours of the city. The third façade looks toward the Anglican Cathedral and the slave market. Nestled among the rear facades is a squared private courtyard containing an ancient well. Dubbed the soul of Zanzibar. The main building, an inspired and lovingly restored merchant’s house has eleven stylishly furnished rooms structured around an airy central courtyard. The rooftop ‘Tea House’ hosts one of Stonetown’s most renowned restaurants offering a stylish ambiance amidst the sound of the calls to prayer from the town’s numerous mosques. Book via www.emersonspice.com

PARK HYATT ZANZIBAR

The hotel has a new and old building, the latter being dubbed the Mambo Msiige mansion which dates back to 1847 when it was built for a wealthy Omani tradesman. A good example of a traditional Zanzibar mansion, it had various functions in the following years before being transformed into the luxury hotel it is today. The new building, also known as Zamani Residence houses the rooms and restaurant characterized by towering ceilings with wooden beams, skylights and golden brass chandeliers. The owner is an avid art lover and collector and the hotel is therefore dotted with several unique pieces. For dining, the outdoor patio is the best place to enjoy the buffets while taking in all the boats and dhows in the sea. www.hyatt.com

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ZANZIBAR

EAST COAST ZANZIBAR WHITE SAND LUXURY VILLAS & SPA

This is a luxury boutique hotel located on the pristine sands of Paje beach. The large property has only 11 villas to ensure maximum privacy for each guest. A stay here is as much about enjoying a cocktail on the rooftop champagne bar as it is about kitesurfing in the sunset or indulging in a massage at the spa after a day of sunbathing. They apply sustainable policies within the resort including recycling and growing organic fruits and vegetables in their plantation, which are used in our restaurant for a controlled quality. Whether you are looking for a romantic getaway or family holiday, the mission here is to ensure memorable stays and the utmost comfort in a serene and stunning setting. Rates available on request. www.whitesandvillas.com.

TULIA ZANZIBAR

Opened in 2015, this independent resort is tucked away in the quiet and pristine Pongwe beach and to ensure the utmost privacy, the property has only 16 villas. The wish of the Czech owners was to incorporate traditional Zanzibari pavilions with chic, modern elements. Choose from seafront luxury villas, royal villas with a jacuzzi or a garden bungalow with a partial sea view, all bathed in soft, natural light. Cobia Restaurant offers delicious meals crafted around international cuisine with the added magic of coastal ingredients, all done by Executive Chef Mgeni Mzima. Staying at Tulia Zanzibar with its lush botanical garden is not just about relaxation but unique experiences and never-ending adventure, all dictated by you. Rates available on request through www.tuliazanzibar.com

ZANZIBAR BANDAS

With unrivalled views of the Matemwe lagoon, these five all-natural, thatched beach bungalows are spacious and built using traditional, eco-friendly materials. They feature beautifully finished, hand-crafted furniture including four poster beds and safari chairs. Meals are prepared by local chefs Hashim, Heri and Finiko and can be enjoyed on your veranda or candle-lit dinner by the beach. Built on stilts and on a platform using only the ancient building materials of palm frond and coco wood, these remote and eco-friendly beach bandas offer a truly exceptional experience on the island of Zanzibar. You can walk along the majestic palmed-lined beach for miles in both directions, only occasionally coming across other people. Rates average $100, to be confirmed on enquiry www.zanzibarbandas.com

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@serenahotels

Spice up your life … Experience Zanzibar Serena Hotel

P.O. Box 4151, Zanzibar Telephone: +255 24 22 33 051/ +255 77 44 40 010/ +255 77 44 40 011 / +255 24 22 33 587 Email address: zanzibar@serena.co.tz

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ZANZIBAR

SOUTH COAST THE RESIDENCE ZANZIBAR

This resort lies in Kizimkazi within a lush, forested 32-hectare estate where five-star luxuries sit harmoniously alongside nature’s untouched beauty. Feel your spirits soar amid extensive tropical gardens that meet with powder-soft white sand lapped by the crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean. Inspired by the island’s eclectic cultures, it blends modern comforts with Swahili, Omani, British and Indian influences. Indulge in the privacy of the spacious villas, attended on if you wish by your own butler. Enjoy carefree days relaxing by your private pool, on the beach or exploring the gardens on foot or by bicycle. Savour the taste of the Spice Island’s unique blend of cultures and cuisines, and the pleasure of sensational spa treatments. Rates available on enquiry via www.cenizaro.com

AYA BEACH BUNGALOWS

The resort has 12 rooms and is located on the southwest coast of the island in Kizimkazi. It has small makuti bandas, all rooms face the sea and are nestled within a garden with plenty of coconut trees and shrubs. It sits in the historical district, only 2.8km from Kizimkazi Dimbani Mosque. Kizimkazi is a fishing village and the catch ranges from kingfish and octopus to tuna, lobster and crab. Fresh fish is therefore readily available and is prepared daily at the restaurant along with an array of local dishes. The restaurant is perched on the edge of a small cliff overlooking the ocean, and has a laid back atmosphere, a perfect vantage point from which to enjoy incredible sunsets. Rates from $70. www.ayabeach.com.

UJAMAA BEACH RESORT

Set in Makunduchi, this relatively new resort was built by an NGO that works with international cooperation to help local communities in developing countries. Ujamaa translates to extended family, and this name was chosen because it represents the organisation’s wish to create opportunities for economic training and social development based on the principles of integration, respect and sharing. The place is quiet, overlooks the beach and is embraced by a wonderful tropical garden. It has eight bungalows and is great for families and large groups. The bar-restaurant, with its unique ocean view, offers an exquisite local and international cuisine and directly overlooks the pool and private beach. The cosy wellness centre offers moments of relaxation and also overlooks the sea. www.ujamaabeachresort.com

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The Emakoko || Telephone 0724156044 || emandant@emakoko.com

www.emakoko.com


CONSERVATION

SAILING THE SEAS Made from 100% recycled waste, the Flipflopi dhow sets off on a highly anticipated inaugural overseas expedition, an adventurous trip from Lamu to Zanzibar with a bid to create a plastic revolution. By Jack Wood

T

he buzz felt in Lamu on the day before the launch was palpable: there were community events, football matches, speeches, beach clean ups and my favourite – a children’s sailing race with dhows made from plastic bottles - all because a team of boat builders in Lamu had been crazy enough to create a world’s first, the Flipflopi, and sail it from their home in Kenya to neighbouring Tanzania – to engage people in an African borne ‘plastic revolution’ As the team gathered on the night before setting sail, the air was tense with anticipation, nervousness and downright excitement: we were a crew of 12 people from six nations ranging from Kenya to South Africa and beyond. Some of us had only just met and yet we were about to set off on a challenging 500km journey from Lamu to Zanzibar aboard a vessel made from takataka. All concerns however dissipated when we all heaved up the mast for the first time, those of us with ‘sedentary computer hands’ already feeling the burn; we had just hit the open seas! We headed right for Malindi, covering 130 km over 14 hours. The constant enthusiasm from Captain Ali alleviated our fears around his recycled plastic creation. The sea carried a constant 8 foot swell and force 4-5 winds, but thankfully, Flipflopi sailed brilliantly. The first of many enthusiastic welcomes was on the beach at our first port of call, Che Shale, where we were greeted by many well-wishers and fellow plastic revolutionaries: the combination of this and the sense of achievement unified the team and set the tone for the entire expedition, one of shared values, determination and adventure. Flipflopi, so called because of the 30,000 flip flops that festoon its hull, was created as

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a symbol of why single use plastic makes no sense. She was built as a vehicle to draw curiosity and smiles in order to engage people and show them that there are numerous ways to recycle plastic. To do that, we ran an ambitious schedule: hosting seven jampacked events in partnership with 50 local conservationists and recycling partners. At each stop we conducted practical recycling workshops, gave lessons to schoolchildren, engaged businesses and policy makers in presentations and talks, and held community networking events – it was key for us to ensure we were stimulating practical solutions in the region. We were astounded by the total of 5,000 people, from school children to business owners and local officials, that came and joined us in celebration and discussion at the events. By the time we reached our destination in Stone Town, Zanzibar, the impact of the expedition became clear: the world’s first plastic boat had captured the hearts and minds of an international audience, led to pledges

by Kenyan and Zanzibari governments to help stem the tide of plastic, led to 39 businesses banning single use plastic on the Kenyan coast, and even the closing down of the largest dump site in Mombasa! These are all incredible examples of local progress in the global fight against plastic pollution. However, the key now is to build more momentum in the region and beyond – whilst both Kenya and Zanzibar have already made progress to ban plastic bags, there is still much to do to implement these policies, and we hope that the region will take further measures to ban all single-use plastic. As for Flipflopi, we will keep on sailing, and plans are now being made to build her ‘big sister’ so that we can sail the message around the world - hopefully inspiring more people to join the “plastic revolution”. Jack Wood was the security advisor on board the Flipflopi as it sailed from Lamu to Zanzibar in Jan-Feb 2019. To become part of this ambitious project, visit theflipflopi.com.


Bar Culture Night Join us every Wednesday night and experience craft cocktails. DJ Paps on the decks from 7.00pm. For Reservations Call 0726 303030 NOMAD MAGAZINE APRIL/MAY 2019 55 Excessive consumption of alcohol is harmful to your health. Strictly not to be sold to persons under 18 years


ROAD TRIP

Nairobi-Shaba-Chalbi-Turkana

A FAMILY HITS THE ROAD

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ROAD TRIP

Exploring ideas of where to go, Simon Marsh decides that a road trip up North, well beyond the usual tourist trail, might be a fun and unique way to spend a couple of weeks with his family and friends.

O

ur trip was to take us from Nairobi up to Shaba National Reserve, which is contiguous with the considerably more famous Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves, before heading off to the eastern side of Lake Turkana and crossing over into the Chalbi desert, all while revelling in the places in between. We had spent a lot of time seeking out individuals with knowledge of the more remote areas and bombarding them with questions. The given answers provided more questions than answers; we would need to carry between one and sixty litres of spare fuel, might get no punctures or upwards of twenty, water might be available or we might need to filter our own...the only certainty was that there were many uncertainties. Our first stop was Shaba, previously home to Joy Adamson. Shaba has a tropical feel to it thanks to the Ewaso Nyiro river dissecting it. We pitched camp at the Funan campsite. As expected, there were no facilities but it did offer shade under sprawling Acacia trees, with plenty of water from the spring and a small stream. The kids and I mucked in with a will and soon a small hamlet emerged. With the long drop dug and the mess tent set up, the priority was to get the fire prepared. At any African camp the fire is both the oven and the social hub and will generally be kept going all the time. With plenty of firewood, this was relatively easy and the next priority was to open the fridge for cold drinks all round. The next couple of days were spent pottering around, watching elephants and gerenuk, looking for crocodiles in the swiftly flowing river water and paying a visit to the Save the Elephant Research Camp in neighbouring Samburu reserve to learn about their critical work before cooling off in the refreshing natural spring pool in Buffalo Springs. The children also discovered the delights of wallowing in the marsh and seeing how much mud it was possible to accumulate upon themselves.

At any African camp the fire is both the oven and the social hub and will generally be kept going at all times.

Soon it was time to completely leave the tarmac so we stopped to squeeze a bit more fuel into the tanks then hit the dust. There was very little traffic now, a sporadic truck or two and the occasional motorbike taxi, but not much else. After about three hours we arrived in the sprawling village of Ngurunit which mainly consists of the Samburu style rondavel type houses. We had tentatively booked in at the campsite at the edge of the village but decided we would prefer something slightly more detached. Together with Mbeko, our local liaison, we set off a short way along the very rocky road until we identified a nice shaded spot by the river. Ngurunit has a little known secret which is the river that comes down from the Ndoto Mountains and forms a number of crystal clear pools and some really awesome natural waterslides. Just a 20 minute saunter away, we had little in the way of expectations but it took the two children all of thirty seconds to work out the dynamics before hurling themselves fearlessly over the edge, followed pretty swiftly by the adults. We spent the rest of the evening trying to find new ways to hurl ourselves down the rocks with the aim being to catch the mighty take off and land neatly in the pool at the bottom. The next day after breaking camp and cleaning up the site it was time to head up to Turkana, something we were all excited about. Stopping in South Horr, we managed to find the well hidden petrol station and headed through the dramatic mountain scenery. Once again, our plans upon arriving in Loiyangalani were vague... we found a local guide and headed off somewhere about 15km along the lake and found a nice shaded spot overlooking the jade sea and in view of Poi, then set ourselves up. The more intrepid decided that tents were an unnecessary addition and decided to sleep under the stars braving the scorpions and legendary Turkana gales. There was little on the way to the desert other than camels and the occasional village until we turned into the sand, and then there was nothing at all. Chalbi desert was once upon a time a lake and the fossils of fish are still to be found along with frequent salt deposits. These deposits doubled as car traps and so avoiding them, we pitched camp alongside a sand ridge in the middle with views of nothing in every direction. Throughout the journey the lack of light pollution had provided the most incredible night sky but the desert stole the show; a star gazer’s dream come true! In this part of Kenya, time has largely stood still, a landscape devoid of habitation in a world with so many people, being outdoors all day, no electric gadgets to distract us and relying on good old fashioned principles of conversation, fresh air, excellent food and more than a couple of cold beers for the adults.

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BUDGET PICK

ROCKY ECO Lodge TEXT & PHOTOGRAPHY LEROY BULIRO

Most travel-loving Nairobians are no strangers to Naivasha, a place which, at the very least, has served as a pit-stop as you leave or drive back to the capital. It is also home to numerous affordable accommodation spots and activities, making it the perfect stop for budget travelers. Rocky Eco-Lodge is one such place; its central location makes the rest of the town accessible, from the bustling centre to the lakes. OVERVIEW This eco-friendly spot is easily distinguishable by its articulate incorporation of wood carvings, starting right from the reception to the walls in the rooms, all drawing inspiration from nature. The retro ambiance here is African, drawing from mud and wood huts, albeit with a 21st century remake. The wooden swing chairs, side tables and mirror frames all stay true to the theme. The ten-roomed lodge offers breathtaking unmarred views of Lake Naivasha with the geological curvature of the mountains as the perfect backdrop, each sunrise better than the last. Perfect for backpackers and archeological geeks, this four year old property’s proximity to most of Naivasha’s key attractions makes it the perfect spot for those keen to explore. It is only 3 km from town, Hell’s Gate National Park and Lake Naivasha lie to its north while Mt Longonot stands to its West. The massage room is always open for some much needed relaxation after a busy day out and about, and the international cuisine offered at the restaurant will do just the trick. Matter of fact, their vegetables are sourced from

their very own backyard, ensuring total freshness for farm to table enthusiasts. GETTING THERE From Nairobi, drive 83 km using the Nakuru- Nairobi highway. Once you make your turn headed to Naivasha Town, take the Moi South Lake Road and drive another 3.7 km to arrive at your destination. Rocky Eco Lodge will be located along the highway on your left, directly opposite the junction leading to Hell’s Gate National Park. The road is tarmaced all the way so just map out the route and hit the road- any kind of car will get you there. PROS • Easily accessible given its location right by the road. • Camping is available. • Fresh food grown in their own garden. CONS • Limited number of rooms available if you’re coming as a large group. Book in advance. • If you need something that is not available at the lodge, you will have to drive into town as there are no shops around. HOW TO BOOK & COSTS A nights stay at Rocky Eco Lodge will cost you Ksh 8,500 for a single room and Ksh 12,500 for a double room, FullBoard while half-board will go for Ksh 7,000 single and Ksh 9,500 double. For camping, call to confirm availability. For bookings, head to their site at naivasharockyecolodge.co.ke or email them directly at rockyresort@yahoo.com

Overall 8/10

ACTIVITIES From trekking the rough terrain of Hell’s Gate National Park to uphill and downhill adventures to the crater of Mt Longonot, these are just but a few activities around Naivasha that will surely quench your nomadic desires to explore, so dust off those safari boots and prepare to experience what Naivasha has to offer. Want to cool off? Drive down to Lake Naivasha and enjoy the calm breeze as you unwind with a boat ride. HELL’S GATE NATIONAL PARK Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 31 km Entry Fee: Ksh 300 for citizens & Ksh 600 for residents A TREK UP MT LONGONOT Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 22 km Entry Fee: Ksh 300 for citizens & Ksh 600 for residents CRUISING ON LAKE NAIVASHA Distance From Rocky Eco Lodge: 9 km


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Weekend at

KIMANA HOUSE TEXT: WENDY WATTA

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SPOTLIGHT ON

I

begrudgingly yank myself from the cozy embrace of the four poster bed and pad barefoot across the spacious room towards the large glass windows through which the soft morning light has washed into the space. Taking in the view for the first time given our late arrival the previous night, I am met with a startlingly green, well kempt lawn, and...wait, is that a herd of zebras grazing further afield? There is a river a few feet away and its soothing rushing sound had lulled me to sleep the previous night. I walk out for a closer inspection and discover a rock pool which must have been manually marked out from the rest of the river by several rocks, and for a moment, seriously contemplate belly-flopping in for a quick dip. It is however cold enough to deter even the most determined of swimmers, and I am also, quite frankly, starving. Being a self-catering spot, there is a chef for hire at Kimana House, but I am stubborn about doing our own cooking. If coming from Nairobi, I would suggest doing all of your shopping in the city as you might not find all desired items at Kimana town. I am quite content to potter around this very functional kitchen, peering into neatly organised cupboards and drawers to get familiar with this new space, and pretty soon, my beef Burgundy is simmering on the stove. Wandering around the four beautiful rooms of Kimana House, it is hard to

believe that at the turn of 2018, it was still a dark and dreary space with ghastly tinted windows, a questionable choice of paint complete with an overgrown bush covering the entire front yard. When Big Life Foundation backed by Sheldrick Wildlife Trust signed a lease until 2046 from the local maasai who communally own the land, one of the first orders of business was to completely overhaul this house. With a limited budget, tight deadline and unexpected rains which went on for three months, renovations were in high gear; shiny tiles were replaced with mazeras stone and the work done on the bathrooms was nothing short of a miracle, turning what was once a pastor’s house into a stylish homey space that can comfortably sleep eight. My favourite spot would have to be the outdoor dining area which proved the perfect spot for long overdue catch ups that spilled late into the balmy Amboseli evenings. Kimana Sanctuary is said to be the first community conservancy in Kenya, presently owned by 480 local maasai who depend on tourism for most of their income. It sits at the very center of a crucial corridor linking the nearby Amboseli National Park to the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo, and being a true elephant lover, our game drive certainly did not disappoint. It is a self-drive property, although car hires can also be arranged with a third party through the house. We set off just before sunset with house manager Joshua acting as our guide; our saloon car

surprisingly handled the terrain quite well, although I highly suspect that it would be an altogether different story during the rainy season. Having been on innumerable game drives, the wildlife somewhat start blending into one another, but elephants always stop me right in my tracks, even if this time it was simply because we were caught up in a sea of these curious giants who flanked us all round showing no signs of budging. As a few more posed in the shadow of a snowcapped Mt Kilimanjaro in whose direction the sun was setting, I had to blink back cathartic tears brought on by the visual overload from the sheer beauty all round. It was simply overwhelming. RATES Kimana Sanctuary is open to everyone for game drives and camping. There are two campsites with a long-drop toilet and bucket shower facilities so carry your own food, water and tents and stay for the awesome location. Game drives: Ksh 1,000 per person per day for residents/citizens, and Ksh 2,500 for non-residents. Camping: Ksh 2,000 per person per day for residents and Ksh 3,500 for non-residents (includes the entry fee). Kimana House: Ksh 18,000 per night for four guests or less, and Ksh 24,000 per night for 5-8 guests (inclusive of children). Children between 10-18 years pay 50% and children under 10 years go free for camping and game drives.

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SANDSTORM

What I pack … for my travels Athlete Biko Adema is a renowned rugby sevens player who’s traveled the world and stolen the hearts of numerous sports fans in the process. Whenever he hits the road, these are some of the items you’re likely to find in his carry-on bag. Instagram: @ademdiz

Tan Moshi Ksh15,900

LACOSTE COLOGNE Did you know that the Lacoste brand was unintentionally started by French tennis star Lacoste in 1927 when he was promised a piece of luggage made from crocodile skin if he won a particular match? Thereafter, he emblazoned a small crocodile on his court apparel after the win, and pretty soon started producing this signature shirt for tennis, golf and sailing. Biko says, “I like smelling great and have several perfumes that I use depending on my mood.”

THE RULES OF PEOPLE BY RICHARD TEMPLAR I like to bring a motivational book to go through whenever I can and this current read is marketed as a personal code for getting the best from everyone... it promises to turn you into a natural ‘people person’, so we’ll see about that.

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BLOC SUNGLASSES I like to whip these out when it gets too sunny or when I simply want to enjoy a beautiful view such as an incredible sunset. They are also just oh so stylish!

PORTABLE JBL SPEAKER This has proved to be the perfect companion on roadtrips. When on group getaways with friends at the beach or on safari, we can simply play some good music and hang out. The sound quality is superb.

G SHOCK WATCH BY CASIO This is perfect if you’re on the move a lot as it was designed for sports and adventurous outdoor activities. From the gym to hiking and the beach, you can literally wear it anywhere.

A SMALL BIBLE A quiet moment of devotion and meditation is key every now and then. For my spiritual nourishment, I’ll go through this and it calms, inspires and sharpens my focus.


NAIROBI: The Hub, Junction, Sarit Centre, Village Market, Yaya Centre, Westgate

www.sandstormkenya.com

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LAST WORD

Walking

TOUR

H

amid stands brandishing a red umbrella outside The Tembo Hotel wearing a kanzu robe and prayer cap. Gathered around him are a motley bunch of tourists who have been foolhardy enough to sign up for an Old Town tour under the midday sun. Most are dressed suitably with shoulders and legs covered in loose fabric, but Cathy has to rush back for a hat and Mindy, to grab a bottle of drinking water. David wears long shorts with an expensive camera slung around his neck. When everyone is finally ready, Hamid clears his throat. “Wakaribishwa,” he says, arms outstretched. “Karibu Stone Town. Today we visit a palace, a fort, hidden caves and a house of wonders. Follow me!” “Er, how long is the tour?” Asks Cathy, clearing her throat. “Just four hours.” Hamid says casually. The group exchange worried glances. Mrs Mungai asks if she might be able to return to the hotel midway through the tour and Hamid nods in agreement. “Endelea” Hamid says, heading off feelings of uncertainty. He takes a bold step forward, followed by a hasty couple of sharp steps back as a moped driver, white

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shirt flying, nearly mows him down. Hamid shakes his fist as the moped disappears around a tight corner, horn honking. The group crocodile down narrow streets lined with tall, whitewashed buildings. Iron roofs, peeling paint and ramshackle wooden balconies with power lines and cables that crisscross overhead. Ornate carved wooden doorways are flanked by stone seats positioned for weary travelers seeking refuge from the sun. Occasionally a door is left ajar giving a glimpse into a sunlit courtyard replete with washing line, pot plants and perhaps a fountain. Hamid explains the history of the carved doors but the group turn at the sound of a cat fight taking place down a side alley, so they move on. “And this was Freddie Mercury’s House.” Hamid says with a flourish. “Where he spent many years of his childhood.” David says,”Freddie who?” but takes photographs nonetheless. “Real name Farrokh Bulsara.” Hamid continues, undeterred. “He spent his childhood years right here.” “Bohemian Rhapsody!” Mindy pipes up. “My absolute favourite movie, you must watch it.” She tells Mrs Mungai who is fanning herself wearily. On with the tour and shops selling fabrics, spices and paintings spill their wares onto the streets over tables or strung up

on walls. Bicycles, mopeds, handcarts are parked to one side while vendors lounge on doorsteps calling out to passing customers. Ladies in full veil with henna-tattooed hands go about their shopping quietly. The delicious smell of freshly brewed coffee floats in the air. Some streets are so narrow that the party has to walk in a single file. There are brief stops at the Hamamni Baths and the famous Jaws Corner intersection where ‘international calls are free’. Mrs Mungai shows signs of flagging when the muezzin’s call to prayer starts ringing out from Stone Town’s 50 mosques and David suggests the group take a break, which everyone agrees is a good idea. “I know just the place.” Hamid says, “Not far.” The group magically emerge at the seafront, signaled by a warm breeze and half a dozen touts offering boat trips and spice tours. “No thank you. Not today,” says Cathy. “Perfect stop for a soda!” Hamid beams, crossing the road to the Sunshine Bar and Grill. The group gratefully pull up plastic chairs in the shade and, buoyed by sugar and bubbles, ask what is next on the itinerary. The Arab Fort and then the House of Wonders. On with the tour! Frances Woodhams is author of the blog: www.africaexpatwivesclub.com

SKETCH: MOVIN WERE

By Frances Woodhams


ADVERTORIAL

BEACH TO

BUSH WITH

Why you should fly with Safarilink Your flight with Safarilink to Zanzibar guarantees you; • The booking process ( Reservations & Call Centre) • Our state-of-the-art security • Our friendly check-in • Our dedicated private lounge • Direct boarding and in-flight service Reasons to visit Zanzibar • Blissful beach destination • Unique and vibrant culture and architecture • Exotic spices • Rich culture & history • Diving Mecca and water lover’s paradise

Safarilink

is Kenya’s premier airline with a network of connecting domestic scheduled services to all the best safari destinations within Kenya and across the border into Tanzania. Based at Wilson Airport, Nairobi, Safarilink provides daily scheduled flights to Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo West, Naivasha, Nanyuki, Lewa Downs, Samburu, Lamu, Kilimanjaro, Loisaba, Kitale, Kapese, Lodwar, Migori, Vipingo, Diani, Zanzibar and Kisumu. Safarilink offers daily seamless inter-connecting services from safari destinations to our beach destinations such as Zanzibar, Diani, Vipingo and Lamu. We also provide private charter services if scheduled services are not convenient. Through our dedicated check-in lounge, friendly security checks, free Wi-Fi, free flights through our safari bonus program and direct boarding, we pride ourself on being a reliable airline. Over the last year, we have had numerous expansions on our services; on 1st July 2018, we increased the frequency of Zanzibar flights from four times a week to daily. On 3rd September 2018, we introduced a new route to Kisumu. Both services enable passengers to connect from all our safari destinations, most notably Maasai Mara and Laikipia, allowing them to arrive at their destination in daylight hours! The in-bound early evening return flight from Zanzibar enables suitable connections to international flights. In line with the extensive expansion of our services, we have increased our fleet from 11 to 13 aircraft, three of which are Dash-8 (Bombardier) Safarilink CSR activities are targeted at regions where we operate and are primarily focused on preserving nature and improving the lives of local communities. This ranges from Laikipia where we support forest restoration with Mt Kenya Trust to Lewa Wildlife Conservancy with whom we are partners in wildlife conservation. In Diani, we engage in conservation of colobus monkeys and in partnership with Hands Off our Elephants, we have branded our aircrafts with this vital message. Further to that, we are also engaged in numerous acts of goodwill across the country to save nature and transform lives. To achieve this, we partner with reputable organizations operating in the destinations that we serve. Our efforts have won us many awards and collaborators. We are recognized as the first airline to partner with Mt Kenya Trust committing to the carbon offset program, and as the first airline to be awarded the Best Eco-Friendly Airline by Ecotourism Kenya for five consecutive years. We recently partnered with Mpesa Foundation Academy to sponsor two students from Turkana county for a full course of secondary school education. In the same county early this year, we sponsored a five-day eye clinic with over two million shillings with one of our partners, Medical & Education Aid for Kenya (MEAK) which saw a total of 818 patients reviewed.

SAFARILINK AVIATION LTD Phoenix House, Wilson Airport PO.Box 5616, Nairobi, 0056, Kenya. Tel: 020 6690000 Mobile: +254 720888111/ 730 888 000 email: res@flysafarilink.com

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