Achieve accuracy in pharma manufacturing with VEGA
New coatings platform to shape pharma innovation
On the
New products on our radar
Perfumery & Fragrance Ingredients
Moellhausen opens R&D centre in Dubai
Creating fragrances inspired by Mocha Mousse
The potential of AI in fragrance R&D
Parfums Plus’ new fine fragrance collection
New blister packaging machine for Hersol
Mosaic specialises in on-trend beauty colabs
CosmetiChem empowers women in manufacturing
Streamline processes with VEGA’s instruments
In-process testing for medical cannabis
Mattify oily skin with Matmarine biotech ingredient
BakuLipid for mild and effective breakout care
Coschem students prize giving dinner
A new era of indulgent cosmetics
Ihope you love the cover of our March edition as much as I do! The warmth and comfort of the Pantone Colour of the Year Mocha Mousse is not only influencing design trends but also having a great impact on the personal care and fragrance industries.
In this edition, we explore the fascinating world of perfumery and fragrance ingredients, with a focus on the growing influence of colour on fragrance creation and how Mocha Mousse is paving the way for a sensory revolution. Turn to page 14 for more.
In the manufacturing arena, we feature the expertise of local contract manufacturing businesses, showcasing their new equipment installations, interesting colabs with retailers and technological skills, all of which strengthen the backbone of the cosmetics and pharma industries. Read more on page 22
Medical cannabis is the focal point of our pharma focus on page 28 . Although CBD is a popular nutraceutical ingredient, regulatory
hurdles and formulation challenges such as low bioavailability and variable quality continue to be a challenge. To offer the market an alternative to CBD in pain relief products, IMCD is now distributing OptiPEA in South Africa. The supplier has developed two novel products using the ingredient to target several processes involved in pain and inflammation.
We also bring you an exciting new feature in this edition: teenage skincare! Turn to page 32 to read about formulation technologies from Savannah Fine Chemicals and AECI Specialty Chemicals which address the specific challenges of teen skin, offering solutions for breakouts, oiliness, and maintaining healthy skin.
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Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
New GM for L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty SA
With over 15 years of experience at L’Oréal, Theresa van Rooyen will lead CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, Vichy, and SkinCeuticals, as the new general manager for L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty SA. Having gained extensive international experience in France, Theresa returned to South Africa three years ago to drive the success of L’Oréal’s brands across the continent. She played a pivotal role in strengthening the market presence of Garnier and L’Oréal Paris in Sub-Saharan Africa, successfully expanding their reach and influence across new territories.
L’Oréal South Africa’s CEO, Serge Sacre, welcomed Theresa’s appointment with enthusiasm.
“Theresa’s passion for beauty, deep industry knowledge, and commitment to excellence make her the perfect leader for our Dermatological Beauty division. Her track record of growing brands and building strong teams speaks for itself, and I have no doubt that under her leadership, our brands will continue to thrive. We are excited to see her drive innovation, expand our reach, and make an even greater impact on people’s lives,” he said.
“Theresa is passionate about making dermatological care accessible and transformative”
Theresa is passionate about making dermatological care accessible and transformative. She notes that dermatological solutions go beyond aesthetics, addressing real health concerns.
“Data increasingly shows that more people are experiencing skin-related conditions,” she says.
“At L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty our mission is to provide life-changing dermatological solutions that are accessible to all. Every day, we support individuals managing acne, eczema, and allergies, not only through our products but also by sharing valuable scientific insights with healthcare professionals. Our goal is to transform lives, one skin at a time, and to champion confidence in one’s own skin.”
As she steps into this leadership role, Theresa hopes to inspire young women from all backgrounds, demonstrating that success is within reach for those who dare to dream. She is also committed to strengthening community engagement in South Africa, ensuring that L’Oréal’s brands remain responsive to the evolving needs of consumers across the region.
Theresa van Rooyen, general manager, L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty
Environ wins gold at Glamour Beauty Awards
Intense C-Boost® Mela-Even Cream, a formulation showcasing the brand’s pioneering use of vitamin C in skincare, won Gold at the prestigious 2024 Glamour South Africa Beauty Awards.
Dr Des Fernandes, co-founder and scientific director of Environ, began formulating with vitamin C over 25 years ago, pioneering the use of its oil-soluble form to optimise this powerful skin nutrient.
“We have always believed in using vitamin C in its most effective form. The Intense C-Boost Mela-Even Cream is a result of years of research to develop a scientifically advanced formulation that helps minimise the appearance of skin discolouration, improves protection against UV-induced cell damage, and enhances skin resistance to oxidative stress,” says Dr Fernandes.
Environ’s Intense C-Boost® Mela-Even Cream contains an expertly blended combination of the antioxidant vitamins C and E. The combo may assist in shielding the skin from environmental stressors and may inhibit tyrosine conversion to improve the appearance of uneven skin tone and visible sun damage. The result is skin that looks healthier and more evenly toned. Environ’s award-winning formulation features Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate. This is a scientifically proven, oil-soluble form of vitamin C that works synergistically with vitamin E.
The Glamour Beauty Awards celebrate the very best in beauty innovation, honouring products that deliver exceptional results. Environ’s Gold award underscores its position as a leader in scientifically formulated skincare and its dedication to creating a world where beautiful skin is the norm, not the exception.
VEGA offers process instrumentation to meet the requirements of the pharmaceutical industry, incorporating compactness, flexibility, hygiene and user-friendly features. The instrumentation also maintains the reliability and performance associated with the VEGA brand. Pharmaceutical manufacturers can count on the following benefits when choosing VEGA:
• Increased process efficiency as VEGA sensors aim to reduce downtime and optimise production cycles, resulting in potential cost savings.
• Enhanced product quality from instruments that provide consistent and reliable measurements, supporting compliance with established quality standards.
• Simplified maintenance thanks to features designed for easy installation, configuration and maintenance to minimise disruptions and resource allocation.
• Optimisations resulting in reduced spare parts inventory and lower operational expenses.
• 360° switching status display, which facilitates quick identification of process changes from any direction.
• Wireless communication via instruments designed for simplified setup and operation, particularly in cleanroom environments.
• A proven track record spanning several decades thanks to VEGA’s history in serving the pharmaceutical industry with reliable instrumentation.
VEGA aims to provide a modular platform that offers tailored solutions for specific needs, ensuring compatibility with individual production environments, and reducing the necessity for multiple vendors. Choosing VEGA as a partner can provide reliable support in the pharmaceutical production sector.
New coatings platform to shape pharma innovation
Roquette has launched a new coatings platform, combining cutting-edge performance with eco-consciousness. The platform is designed to meet growing demand in prescription pharma, nutra and OTC markets.
Featuring Tabshield® ready-to-use film coating systems and ReadiLYCOAT® plant-based ready-to-use coating systems, the platform provides groundbreaking solutions. These solutions speed up production while meeting the needs of a more diverse patient population.
Tabshield® now offers flexible, high-performance film coatings for immediate and enteric release. ReadiLYCOAT® redefines film coating and sugar-free sugar coatings with plant-based polymers.
ReadiLYCOAT® premixes use a water-soluble, plant-based polymer, reducing solvent use and carbon emissions. ReadiLYCOAT® coatings reduce overall coating process times relative to traditional coatings. The ReadiLYCOAT® XC xylitol-based sugar-free sugar-coating system reduces the duration of sugar-coating from days to hours.
Paul Smaltz, head of the pharmaceutical solutions business unit at Roquette, comments: “With this new coatings platform, Roquette is not just delivering products – it is unlocking new possibilities. From accelerating production timelines to meeting patient needs, we are shaping the future of pharmaceutical innovation. The platform embodies our commitment to addressing the challenges of a rapidly evolving industry. It provides high performance, eco-friendly solutions that benefit manufacturers and end users alike.”
Roquette’s new platform aligns perfectly with market trends. It offers manufacturers a way to deliver sustainability, speed and superior performance with its range of ready-to-use premixes.
The platform also addresses the growing need for inclusive healthcare. ReadiLYCOAT® premixes are ideal for white, clear and customised colour coatings and ReadiLYCOAT® XC sugar-free is a sugar alternative solution. These premixes are not only effective and efficient but also sustainable and resilient over time. Both ranges, available in South Africa from Azelis, are water-soluble. This eliminates the need for organic solvents, reducing environmental impact and cutting carbon emissions.
2025 Diary
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April
GMP Pharma Congress 8 to 9 April Wiesbaden, Germany www.pharma-congress.com in-cosmetics Global 8 to 10 April Barcelona, Spain www.in-cosmetics.com/global Beautyworld Saudi Arabia 21 to 23 April Saudi Arabia, UAE https://tinyurl.com/4hpsjryz
Joburg, South Africa www.coschem.co.za Coschem CT Supplier Day 18 June
June
Cape Town, South Africa www.coschem.co.za
Propak China 24 to 26 June Shanghai, China www.propakchina.com/en
New products on our radar On the Street
1. Calming balm for stressed skin
Cosmeceutical skincare range SKNLOGIC has launched an exciting new product – Derma Repair Balm. Suitable for all skin types, and specifically formulated for damaged, compromised and inflamed skin, SKNLOGIC Derma Repair Balm combines a powerful blend of natural oils, butters and plant extracts to deeply nourish and support skin’s healing process. Rich in moisturising agents like shea butter, jojoba oil and grape seed oil, the balm helps restore the skin’s natural barrier, promoting faster recovery and reducing dryness or peeling. The anti-‐inflammatory properties of neem oil and cucumber extract soothe irritated skin, while the antioxidants from prickly pear extract and vitamin E protect and repair damaged tissue. Additionally, beeswax and sunflower seed wax create a protective barrier, locking in moisture and preventing further irritation, making this formula ideal for healing and calming compromised skin.
2. Take nail care to new heights
eVerest Nail Health is designed to strengthen and rejuvenate nails. Developed by Fusion Labs, this nail health supplement is formulated to meet the growing demand for effective and holistic wellness solutions. By enhancing nutrient absorption, the supplement effectively reverses general nail damage and addresses internal nail nutrient deficiencies. The eVerest formulation delivers an ideal balance of nutrients to the body to get nails into an exceptional condition while optimising their ongoing health.
3. Advanced Japanese sun protection
Hada Labo recently launched a new premium range, designed to provide skin with unparalleled hydration, firmness and rejuvenation. Included in the range are two sun care products. Hada Labo SPF 50 Super Moisturiser Sun Lotion 200ml is formulated with hyaluronic acid and regenerating panthenol. It features photostable filters to shield skin from UVA and UVB radiation. Water-resistant and fast absorbing, this lightweight, non-greasy lotion is suitable to wear under makeup or on wet skin. The second product, Hada Labo Tokyo Face Sun Cream SPF 50 50ml , effectively protects against the harmful effects of UVA and UVB radiation. Enriched with hyaluronic acid, glycerine and panthenol, this facial sun cream has moisturising, regenerating and anti-ageing properties.
4. Tissue oil enriched shower crème
Shower to Shower Fresh Glow Shower Crème (500m a luxurious crème that combines the power of gentle AHA exfoliation. The creamy formula creates a luxurious lather, leaving skin soft and subtly fragranced. The product is formulated to transform dull skin with the richness of tissue oil for additional hydration. The result is nothing less than beautifully polished, unbelievably soft skin.
New hub for successful fragrance creation
DU•IT
Creative Centre is Moellhausen’s new development hub in Dubai. Launched in October 2024, it links the Italian business to Dubai and its customers throughout the MEA region to Italy.
Moellhausen’s international presence is one of the pillars of its corporate philosophy, driving the continuous growth of the fragrance and flavours business in Italy and worldwide.
Moellhausen is among the world’s leading historic family run businesses in the flavours and fragrances sector, both for raw materials and specialties. The company has been in operation for almost 60 years and represents the excellence of Made in Italy. Its exceptional success in Europe originates from Moellhausen’s ability to combine its Italian flair with the timeless traditions of fragrances found in every region in which it operates.
TECHNOLOGICAL AND CREATIVE LANDMARK
A significant milestone in Moellhausen’s growth is the launch of a new research centre in Dubai, the DU•IT Creative Centre. Established in the name of innovation, quality raw materials, sustainability and a search for perfection, the centre is set to become a technological and creative landmark for conceiving and developing exclusive fragrances, which will be designed and created specifically for the MEA region, including the South African market.
Already active in Dubai with a commercial office and large showroom, Moellhausen has increased its presence with the new hub of excellence extending over an area of more than 1 500m². Perfumers, analysts and laboratory
and production operators work within this creative centre, which includes a warehouse for storing around 1 000 raw materials.
This project represents a significant investment, both financially and in terms of job creation within the region. Additionally, it introduces the most advanced technology for automated fragrance composition, alongside laboratory technology for chemical analysis and the development of applications.
"Establishing a R&D centre in Dubai gives us a significant competitive advantage in fragrance production"
Andrea Ghezzi, president of Moellhausen, says: “Establishing an R&D centre in Dubai gives us a significant competitive advantage in fragrance production, not only for luxury and niche markets but also for other segments and industrial sectors, particularly dynamic in Africa, with which we operate from such a key region of the world.”
A SIGNIFICANT PARTNERSHIP
Moellhausen coined the acronym DU•IT to define the significance of the partnership between Dubai and Italy. The Italian flavours and fragrance business has been cultivating this relationship for over 20 years.
DU•IT is a phonetic nod to the English expression 'do it', serving as encouragement to act without hesitation, to perform actions at full speed and in the best possible way. DU•IT, or 'do it' embodies Moellhausen’s commitment to operate near customers, fostering continuous relationships with clients and company stakeholders. It signifies the company’s presence in Dubai, with its team of perfumers regularly alternating between the city and its Milan headquarters. Moreover,
it emphasises reducing primarily virtual interactions to cultivate more effective and constructive in-person connections.
“Moellhausen’s presence in the Middle East is the springboard to be even closer to all our customers, including customers in Africa. It is the result of a path of growth and internationalisation that the company has been pursuing for years. It sees us successfully committed to increasing a virtuous process of commercial exchanges and industrial relations with primary entities in the fragrance sector. Although our reference market is the world, we will never forget that we are Italian,” says Anthony Moellhausen, CEO of Moellhausen.
South Africa's unique characteristics are highly valued to Moellhausen, with its vast and diverse natural beauty. The country’s intriguing olfactory landscapes serve as a rich source of inspiration for every perfumer. • Moellhausen – www.moellhausen.com
Moellhausen’s production area in Dubai
The DU•IT Creative Centre is equipped with a world class laboratory
Redefine luxury and comfort with Mocha Mousse
The growing influence of colour on fragrance creation is paving the way for a new era of sensory indulgence.
Colour and fragrance are powerful ways to evoke emotions and perceptions. Red for example invokes warmth, passion, romance and energy, just as a fragrance rich in fiery spice, velvety rose and vibrant red fruits can ignite our spirit and embolden our desires.
Our Scentmakers – amongst a plethora of data, ingredient, fashion, interior and even socio-economic trends – understand the value of keeping abreast of colour forecasts in the journey to create beautiful and evocative fragrances that resonate at exactly the right moment.
INSPIRING A NEW OLFACTORY JOURNEY
The Pantone colour of the year is Mocha Mousse – a warm and inviting chocolatey brown hue. This alluring shade is said to
represent the importance of the ‘little treat culture’ in today’s chaotic world.
Even in namesake, Mocha Mousse recalls a whipped and indulgent dessert, offering a mellow creaminess that creates a nurturing olfactory response, with its suggestion of the mouthwatering qualities of chocolate and coffee, and answering our desire for comfort.
Imbued with pleasure, this delectable shade aligns perfectly with the growth of alluring and soul comforting gourmand fragrances, which continue to captivate consumers seeking feelings of contentment and gratification. For 2025, gourmand fragrances are set to evolve in line with the emergence of the Mocha Mousse colour theme, drawing not only from creamy vanilla, an ingredient that featured heavily in compositions of recent years, but also from tantalising facets of chocolate and an almost savoury twist of coffee.
"Gourmand fragrances are set to evolve in line with the emergence of the Mocha Mousse colour theme"
Gourmand fragrances will develop from a purely indulgent profile that evokes memories of culinary delights into something chic, elegant and sophisticated.
The result is an entirely new evocative experience, offering an escape from the stresses of modern life with a moment of luxury.
SENSORY INDULGENCE
ACROSS CATEGORIES
Given the sensorial nature of this delectable theme, it isn’t just fine fragrance that will benefit from the mouthwatering delights of a Mocha Mousse-inspired scent, but all fragranced products.
Imagine for a moment the pleasure of showering with a body wash that comforts the soul as it cleanses, or a hair care routine that feels deeply nourishing with rich and creamy accords. Imagine the sensual experience of moisturising the skin with the velvety nuances of a chocolate infused cream or lighting a scented candle that creates a delectable cocoon of fragrance. This theme is truly experiential. It’s all about the little moments and indulgent treats. The possibilities are endless.
Our Scentmakers have their fingers on the pulse when it comes to trends and the impact on fragrance. This indulgent sensory theme has their creative juices flowing to create impactful scents that consumers will crave. Contact Brenntag South Africa for more information. •
– www.fragrance-oils.com
Our extensive expertise allows us to craft captivating scents for beloved consumer goods. In partnership with Fragrance Oils, we can supply tailor-made fragrances to suit your individual needs. Whether it’s allergen free formulas, mood-boosting scents to enhance wellness or a particular concept you envision for your brand.
Our talented Scentmakers nurture relationships with every customer, no matter how big or small and if you’re looking for new ideas, we can provide marketing insights and innovative fragrance collections inspired by the latest launches and trends.
Contact : Anna Stoltz
Business Development Specialist
Email Anna.Stoltz@brenntag.com
Unit 2, Elgin St. , Pomona ,Kempton Park
Johannesburg 1619
+27(0)10 020 91 00
brenntag.com
The beauty of AI in fragrance innovation
AI permeates almost every industry, reshaping traditional processes and offering novel solutions. The fragrance industry is no exception, with Robertet rolling out cutting-edge AI applications for scent innovation. As Claman distributes Robertet’s fragrances in South Africa, it’s exciting to explore the transformative impact of AI on this industry.
At the forefront of this digital revolution in perfumery is Robertet's NaturIA, a specialised tool that elevates the creation of fragrances by analysing and optimising combinations from the company’s extensive ingredient portfolio. NaturIA serves as a creative ally to perfumers, maintaining artistic individuality while enhancing the overall scent creation process. This synergy ensures a deeper emotional connection with fragrances, highlighting the role of AI not only as a tool but also as a partner in olfactory artistry.
MAPPING EMOTION THROUGH SCENT
Understanding emotional responses to scents has always been a priority in creating truly impactful fragrances.
Robertet’s patented Seed to Feel methodology, complemented by virtual reality, employs AI to link physiological reactions to specific aromas. This advanced approach allows for an accurate assessment of emotional signatures associated with different fragrances, fostering more personalised and innovative perfume development.
By mapping these intricate connections, AI enables scent creation that resonates deeply with consumers on an emotional level.
SUPERIOR SOLUTIONS FOR EVERYDAY NEEDS
Innovation in the fragrance domain isn’t restricted to aesthetic appeal alone. Robertet’s Neutral Plus®, developed with the aid of AI, exemplifies cutting-edge research in anti-odour technology. These patented solutions address odour concerns across various sectors, including household, personal care, and industrial applications. The ability to incorporate AI-driven mechanisms allows for more effective and efficient olfactory solutions, enhancing user experiences across multiple product categories.
BEAUTY ENRICHED WITH AI
The potential of AI in fragrances extends to multi-functional benefits, as demonstrated by Robertet’s ActiScent fragrances. These innovations marry the aesthetic allure of scents with cosmetic advantages, leveraging AI to evaluate efficacy and optimise results. Such dual-purpose products signify a noteworthy advancement in fragrance development with the promise of sensory pleasure and practical benefits.
The ongoing integration of AI technologies in the fragrance industry is redefining the boundaries of scent creation and evaluation. Through innovative tools like NaturIA and Seed to Feel, as well as advancements in anti-odour and cosmetic applications, Robertet exemplifies the convergence of science and artistry in olfactory experiences. This pioneering approach not only enhances traditional fragrance practices but also positions Robertet – and consequently Claman in South Africa – as key partners in fragrance innovation.
AI is undoubtedly steering the fragrance industry towards a future rich with possibilities, championing reimagined experiences and inspiring creations that resonate with consumers’ emotions. As these technologies evolve, so too will the intimate connections people hold with their favourite scents. •
– www.claman.co.za
Reimagining fine fragrance
In the personal care industry, staying abreast of evolving trends is essential for success. To help brand owners and manufacturers enhance their offerings, Parfums Plus explores fine fragrance innovations and how to tailor them to diverse market needs.
The newest fine fragrance collection from Parfums Plus brings a realm of fantasy and sophistication, taking consumers on a sensory journey that blends innocence with bold, modern elements. The collection’s theme ‘create your own reality’ offers a magical escape through scent, catering to consumer demand for uniqueness and indulgence.
The collection aligns with the iconic notes showcased in leading fine fragrances like Carolina Herrera’s Bad Boy Dazzling Garden, Dolce & Gabbana’s Dolce Violet and Good Fortune Elixir Intense by Viktor & Rolf. These perfumes are characterised by their oriental aromatic, chypre floral, floral fruity and citrus oriental notes. With a focus on these versatile and premium olfactory elements, the collection supports scalable fragrance development tailored to diverse market needs.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE COLLECTION
For formulators, ‘create your own reality’ opens avenues for crafting distinctive fragrances that resonate with the needs of modern consumers. The collection consists of the following fragrance accords:
• As In My Dream is a voluptuous fragrance with provocative and mischievous fruity notes of cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant opening on an alluring floral heart of rose, peony and violet that evolves on a chic and charismatic background.
• Realm Of Possibilities , designed for radiant self-confident women, is a deliciously mysterious perfume blending enchanting notes of
leather, caramel, amber and vanilla. Precious woods and sensual musk in the background make this accord definitively bold.
• A Magic World is a luscious floral whirlwind opening on a twist of coconut, peach and orange blossom. Pure and lush, this fragrance is built around a stunning and opulent white flower bouquet that evolves onto a carnal trail made of vanilla, musk and sandalwood.
• The Other Side is an intense and luxurious oriental accord in which tobacco notes, with luscious inflexions of honey, caramel and vanilla, are enhanced by a warm and deeply bewitching background of sandalwood and golden amber.
" The collection supports scalable fragrance development tailored to diverse market needs"
• Sounds of the Universe is for men who dare to be themselves. It is an elegant and sophisticated fragrance blending woody essences of patchouli, cedarwood and vetiver offering softer notes with nuances such as orris and aquatic musk.
Fragrances by Parfums Plus are available in South Africa from Cosmetic
SHOWER GEL MARKET TRENDS
Amidst shifting consumer expectations, shower gels are evolving beyond mere cleansing agents, becoming immersive, sensory experiences. The market is witnessing a surge in demand for natural, organic formulations as consumers increasingly seek transparency and sustainability.
Brands are innovating with bespoke product solutions that cater to varied skin types and aromatic preferences. This personal touch is becoming a strong competitive differentiator. The emphasis on eco-friendly practices, such as biodegradable packaging and responsibly sourced ingredients, is shaping brand narratives and consumer trust.
Leading players like Dove and L'Oréal are setting benchmarks with sustainable initiatives and innovative marketing strategies. These efforts highlight the importance of aligning with consumer values regarding the environment and personal wellness.
Technologies. Email costech@global.co.za for more information. •
Parfums Plus Parfums Plus –parfumsplus.com
Cutting-edge packaging meets consumer convenience
In a notable development for health supplement brands, Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories has unveiled a state-of-the-art automated blister packaging machine. Installed in January, this innovative addition is poised to meet rising demands from health supplement brands for multi-component blister packs.
By Abby Vorster
As a leading contract manufacturer specialising in pharmaceuticals and health supplements, Hersol’s investment in an automated blister machine addresses a growing need in the nutraceutical category. This is a surge in popularity for multi-component blisters where different dietary supplements are combined into a single sheet of blister packaging.
Multi-component blisters are particularly appealing to consumers because of their convenience, allowing a brand or product to cater to multiple nutritional needs without having to juggle numerous bottles and boxes. This trend aligns perfectly with Hersol’s strategic vision, which focuses on enhancing efficiencies and delivering solutions that simplify and enhance the consumer’s experience.
CUTTING-EDGE CAPABILITIES
The new blister machine is commissioned and up and running. It can pack PVC, PVDC foil and aluminium blisters, and is engineered to produce up to 2 400 blister packaging sheets per hour. This significantly boosts the contract manufacturer’s production capacity while maintaining impeccable quality standards. The machine is a technological marvel in that most production processes are automated, minimising human intervention and thereby reducing the potential for error.
It seamlessly integrates advanced quality control measures, meticulously inspecting each blister pack. Defective blisters with missing or compromised components are automatically rejected, ensuring that only the correct combo of products (capsules, pill or tablets) reaches the end user.
In addition to its impressive output, the machine is lauded for its energy efficiency. Utilising a small yet powerful modern motor and PLC system, it offers significant reductions in energy
consumption compared to traditional machinery. This aligns with Hersol's commitment to sustainability and operational efficiency, enabling the contract manufacturer to increase operational capacity by 33% while reducing its environmental footprint.
"Health supplement brands can rely on Hersol to provide innovative solutions"
Hersol has always stood by its principle of uncompromising quality, and the new machine is no exception. It further solidifies the company’s standing as a trusted partner for health supplement brands aiming to deliver exceptional products to their consumers.
ANTICIPATING FUTURE EXPANSION
While the focus of this new machine is set on meeting the needs of the nutraceutical market, the flexibility it offers presents opportunities for diversification. Health supplement brands can leverage Hersol’s advanced packaging solutions to explore new product offerings and meet emerging consumer demands for personalised nutritional supplements. In the evolving landscape of health supplements, the advancements in blister packaging technology at this contract manufacturer mark a pivotal point for the industry, heralding an era of enhanced efficiency, quality and sustainability. As the category continues to expand, health supplement brands can rely on Hersol to provide the innovative solutions needed to stay ahead in a competitive market. •
Hersol Manufacturing Labs – hersol.co.za
Discover the power of partnership with Hersol Manufacturing Labs!
At Hersol, we put people first. Our commitment to our clients goes beyond mere production – we’re dedicated to transforming your vision into reality. With our unparalleled expertise in formulation development, meticulous raw material sourcing, and cutting-edge pilot scale production capabilities, Hersol empowers you to bring your innovative concepts to life.
Why choose Hersol as your contract manufacturer?
Because we understand the importance of trust and reliability in every step of the journey. From concept to creation, we ensure that every aspect of product development and production is handled with precision and care.
45 Years
45 Years of excellence
With our unmatched expertise, cutting-edge facilities, unwavering commitment to quality and dedication to customer satisfaction, choose us as your contract manufacturer, unlock endless possibilities for innovation and growth in the complementary medicines industry and experience the diff erence first-hand.
ACCREDITED BODIES:
Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is registered with reputable organizations:
• Sahpra Manufacturing licence
• South African Health Products Regulatory Authority
• South African Department of Health
• South African Pharmacy Council
• Health Product Association (HPA)
• Self-Care Association of South Africa
Laurence Solomons CEO Laurence@Hersol.co.za
• FDA Food Facility
• S.A.N.H.A (South African National Halaal Authority), NIHT (National Independent Halaal Trust) to offer Halaal certified products.
• Montreal Kosher Authorities (Global Kosher Certification) to offer Kosher certified products.
Barry Solomons Chief Operating Officer Barry@Hersol.co.za
Kevin Van Wyngaardt Managing Director kevin@hersol.co.za
Riaan Herselman Operations Director Riaan@Hersol.co.za
Tumelo Langa Production Director Prodman@hersol.co.za
With a mission to redefine the beauty experience, Mosaic Manufacturing offers a comprehensive suite of contract manufacturing services that are on trend and customer focused. By Abby Vorster
One of the company’s most exciting recent projects highlights its appetite for innovation – Mosaic Manufacturing played a pivotal role in developing the Woolworths x Chuckles body care range.
What began as an April Fool’s joke in 2023 transformed into a sweet reality last year, primarily thanks to Mosaic’s expertise in formulation design. By capturing the essence of Woolworths’ iconic Chuckles™ malted puffs, the contract manufacturer delivered a body care collection that indulges the senses and evokes nostalgia. The delightful range includes a Chuckles™ inspired smoothie body wash, Chuckles™ inspired whipped body butter, and Chuckles™ inspired body scrub, which created a massive buzz on social media and have taken the market by storm.
Ian Reid, managing director of Mosaic Manufacturing, says collaborations with major retailers, like the Chuckles beauty range, underscore the company’s ability to translate brand identity into engaging beauty products.
“Our ability to work closely with Woolworths’ technology and product teams is a testament to our commitment to combining innovation with consumer-driven insights,” he comments.
INVESTMENTS IN TECHNOLOGY AND PROCESSES
Mosaic Manufacturing’s dedication to excellence is evident in the company’s substantial investments in technology and manufacturing equipment. Over the years, the contract manufacturer has explored process optimisation, introducing lean manufacturing principles and workflow automation to improve production processes. These initiatives, coupled with a stringent supplier management strategy, have enabled the business to maintain high product quality while meeting customers’ growing demands on tighter project timelines.
The beauty industry’s changing nature necessitates agility, which Mosaic Manufacturing demonstrates through its work at the intersection of brand vision, market demand and technical feasibility.
“Balancing creativity with operational efficiency is key to thriving in beauty innovation. Our design team and cosmetic chemists consistently scan the global market for trends, ensuring that Mosaic remains at the cutting edge of beauty and personal care,” adds Ian.
The contract manufacturer employs skilled individuals who are dedicated to bringing passion and expertise to every aspect of the business. This is supported by the ethos that “happy employees lead to satisfied customers”.
AGILITY IN INNOVATION
To lead future trends in South Africa's beauty and personal care industry, Mosaic Manufacturing tailors its approach to each project. The company is committed to providing high-quality products and services
by focusing on its people, innovation, quality and customer service. The latter provides clients with exclusive access to a diverse array of in-house products and services.
Looking at market trends and the future of beauty, Ian says that the increasing move to sustainability will see an increase in local ingredients in formulation design. He also highlights that consumers are becoming more discerning, favouring eco-friendly packaging and demanding clean, effective beauty products – a space in which Mosaic Manufacturing’s clean beauty expertise is fundamental.
" The beauty industry’s changing nature necessitates agility"
Mosaic Manufacturing stands out as a leading contract manufacturer in the beauty and personal care sectors. The Woolworths x Chuckles project exemplifies the transformative potential of the company’s collaborative approach, setting a new benchmark for indulgence and nostalgia in beauty products. As consumer preferences continue to evolve, Mosaic Manufacturing remains committed to leading the charge with its innovation-centric and sustainability driven ethos. •
In the fast-paced cosmetics industry, choosing the right contract manufacturing partner is critical for a brand’s success. CosmetiChem is a great choice. The company’s commitment to innovation and women empowerment, as well as its comprehensive services make it an excellent partner.
"CosmetiChem offers a full suite of testing and regulatory services"
CosmetiChem's vision transcends the traditional volume-centric approach prevalent in the industry.
“We prioritise speed to market, competitive pricing and high-level engagement by involving our clients in every step of the process. Our passion lies in making our clients' dreams come true, ensuring that each product is not only produced efficiently but also resonates with quality and innovation,” explains René Bouwer, brand development and cosmetic innovations manager at CosmetiChem.
At the heart of this contract manufacturer’s operations is a steadfast commitment to ethical manufacturing. CosmetiChem’s factory is 100% female owned, predominantly female operated with manufacturing staff from previously disadvantaged backgrounds. This dedication to fair labour practices not only empowers its team but also fosters a culture of integrity and respect. Clients also benefit from this ethical foundation through transparent communication, meticulous attention to detail and products crafted with care and responsibility.
GLOBAL TREND AWARENESS
One of CosmetiChem’s key strengths lies in its experienced team. Its experts are highly knowledgeable about current and emerging international trends, ensuring that all
• Compiling of Product Information Files (or PIF)
• Responsible EU person
products it manufactures are at the forefront of industry trends. Whether it’s formulating unique textures, integrating the latest active ingredients, or designing innovative packaging solutions, the team’s expertise provides a crucial edge for brands looking to stay ahead in a competitive market.
To ensure production efficiency and maintain quality standards, CosmetiChem continually invests in cutting-edge equipment and process innovation solutions.
“Our state-of-the-art laboratory and manufacturing plant in South Africa leverage fair-price labour and raw materials to provide competitive pricing to our customers. This strategic investment enhances our production capacities, allowing us to efficiently scale from pilot batches to fullscale production while maintaining stringent quality standards,” adds René.
COMPREHENSIVE TESTING AND REGULATORY SERVICES
CosmetiChem offers a full suite of testing and regulatory services to ensure product safety and compliance. These services include:
• Three months accelerated stability testing
• Microbiological testing
• Safety assessments carried out by a qualified DGK safety assessor
• Loading cosmetic products onto the EU CPNP portal and the Dubai Montaji portal. These services provide brands with the assurance that their products meet the highest industry standards and international regulatory requirements. CosmetiChem approaches raw material sourcing with a focus on sustainability and quality. The team chooses ingredients carefully, ensuring they meet international standards and contribute to the efficacy and safety of the final product.
GLOBAL REACH WITH LOCAL EXPERTISE
With offices located in Germany, the UAE and South Africa, CosmetiChem serves the European, African and the United Arab Emirates market.
“Our market knowledge encompasses the EU and UAE, allowing us to manufacture EU and UAE-compliant products along with managing the respective approval processes. Together with our export freight partner, we offer stress-free delivery to your local port or competitive EXW prices,” comments René.
CosmetiChem's commitment to ethical manufacturing, continuous innovation and sustainable practices, coupled with the expertise of its industryleading team, positions the contract manufacturer as a trusted partner for brands seeking excellence in the personal care and cosmetics industry.
The company’s holistic approach ensures that your products are not only market-ready but also aligned with the highest standards of quality and responsibility. •
CosmetiChem –www.cosmeti-chem.com
A cure for measurement headaches in manufacturing
With designs that prioritise hygiene, robust materials and advanced digital integration, VEGA’s instruments empower CMOs to streamline processes, reduce downtime, and adhere to quality standards.
contract manufacturing organisation (CMO) supports pharmaceutical and biotechnology companies in manufacturing medications, formulations and substances. CMOs enable pharmaceutical companies to improve operational efficiency and profitability, by utilising advanced equipment and employing highly trained staff, which is critical in pharma manufacturing. Additionally, CMOs help ensure compliance with quality standards and regulatory requirements, minimising challenges during drug development and
VEGA’s measurement solutions offer accuracy and reliability for monitoring levels and pressures during the manufacturing process. Sensors and pressure transmitters offer traceability and validation documentation, simplifying the qualification and validation procedures required for regulatory compliance.
LEVEL MEASUREMENT FOR OPERATIONAL EFFICIENCY
CMOs deal with high-value raw materials, intermediates and APIs, where accurate level monitoring is critical for cost management and product quality. VEGA’s VEGAPULS 6X, a radar-based level sensor operating at 80 GHz, is widely used in pharma applications due to its
The sensor’s high-frequency radar beam enables precise, non-contact level measurement in storage and process vessels, regardless of the medium’s properties. In pharma settings, where hygiene and sterility are required, the non-contact design of the VEGAPULS 6X eliminates contamination risks. The sensor’s materials, including hygienic-grade PTFE and stainless steel, comply with FDA and EHEDG standards, making it suitable for pharma processes requiring clean-in-place and sterilise-in-place protocols. Measurement is not limited to liquids – contract manufacturers require level measurement of powders and granules stored in silos or hoppers. The VEGAPULS 6X is designed for solid-level measurement applications, featuring advanced signal processing capabilities that allow for accurate measurement of powder levels. This device can effectively measure powders with varying bulk densities,
PRESSURE MEASUREMENT FOR PRECISION
Filtration, sterilisation, and reaction control during the manufacturing process rely on maintaining precise pressure conditions. The VEGABAR series of pressure transmitters offers exceptional accuracy, reliability and durability for monitoring pressures in tanks, pipelines and reactors. The VEGABAR 83 is an excellent choice for pharma applications. Its robust ceramic measuring cell withstands chemical exposure and
abrasion, ensuring consistent performance even in aggressive environments. In processes such as API synthesis, where reactors operate under high-pressure and high-temperature conditions, the VEGABAR 83 provides highly stable pressure measurements, critical for process control and safety. It is also a dependable solution for applications requiring differential pressure monitoring, such as in filter systems or closed reactors. It features a chemical-resistant ceramic sensor, ensuring longterm stability and accuracy, even when measuring minuscule pressure differences.
The integration of pressure measurement with level monitoring systems gives CMOs a comprehensive view of their processes. Combining VEGABAR pressure transmitters with VEGAPULS radar sensors enables level and pressure monitoring for reliable control of liquid volumes and vessel conditions. This dual monitoring capability is particularly valuable in sterile reactors and storage tanks to maintain aseptic conditions.
POINT-LEVEL DETECTION FOR SAFETY AND PROCESS CONTROL
This is an important safety and process control requirement in pharma manufacturing. High- and low-level alarms prevent overfilling and dry running of equipment, safeguarding processes and minimising product loss.
The VEGASWING 63 is designed for liquid-level detection in hygienic environments. It is ideal for overfill protection and dry-run prevention in pharma tanks and reactors, where density, viscosity or conductivity may vary. The VEGASWING series operates on vibration technology, where a tuning fork vibrates at a specific frequency when not in contact with the medium. If vibration ceases, an alarm or control action will be triggered. This simplicity and reliability make these switches ideal for safety-critical applications where even minor process deviations can jeopardise product quality and compliance.
THE VEGA CURE
VEGA’s innovative level and pressure measurement solutions – the VEGAPULS radar sensors, VEGABAR pressure transmitters and VEGASWING level switches –provide exceptional performance and versatility in pharma applications. Whether it's monitoring liquid levels in sterile tanks, measuring pressures within reactors, or ensuring safety through point-level detection, VEGA continues to be a reliable partner in pharma manufacturing. •
VEGA – https://tinyurl.com/PCRVEGAza
The perfect partner for your measuring task?
The one with everything in view.
No matter what the dimensions of your production system are: VEGA has the right level and pressure instrumentation to fine-tune your processes. What can you count on? With VEGA, you’ll be talking to real people. People who know what they’re doing and what the best solution for you looks like. People who are there for you. From the first advisory session to 24/7 standby support. Anytime and anywhere.
Everything is possible. With VEGA.
Pain-free - naturally
Among new pain relief therapies, PEA – a natural alternative to CBD – stands out for its efficacy, safety and compatibility with other treatments. It provides progressive pain relief and works regardless of age or gender.
Chronic pain is a significant public health issue, affecting patients’ quality of life and posing challenges for physicians. Long-term use of painkillers is leading to more noticeable risks, while cannabinoids have become a popular treatment in replacement of pain killers.
Cannabidiol (CBD) is booming as a nutraceutical ingredient, yet regulatory hurdles and formulation challenges such as low bioavailability and variable quality remain as issues.1 Palmitoylethanolamide (PEA) exists as an alternative to CBD in pain relief products – without the regulatory and formulation barriers associated with CBD.
PEA is an endocannabinoid-like lipid mediator, primarily known for its antiinflammatory, analgesic and neuroprotective properties. It appears to have a multimodal mechanism of action, by primarily activating the nuclear receptor PPAR- α while also potentially working through the endocannabinoid system (ECS), thus targeting similar pathways to CBD. 2 With proven efficacy in several therapeutic areas and a favourable safety and tolerability profile, PEA is a promising alternative to CBD
100% European origin
• Superior quality pharmaceutical grade palmitoylethanolamide
Branded ingredient with registered trademark and logo
• Developed exclusively for human consumption
• High purity material analysed via HPLC
• Produced according to EU GMP
without the risk of addiction or tolerance with no overdosing. It also allows for the development of formulations that maximise its bioavailability.
A
NATURAL
PAINKILLER
As a naturally occurring fatty acid amide, PEA is produced in the body where it is involved in a variety of cellular functions related to pain and inflammation. Compelling pain relief benefits have been shown in migraine, low back pain, pelvic pain, radiculopathy (pinched nerves), osteoarthritis, sciatica, carpel tunnel syndrome, and various other chronic syndromes .3, 4
"Opti-Boss and Opti-Ease formulas can be used as part of an integrative approach to pain"
Remarkably, PEA significantly reduced pain intensity in people unable to effectively control their pain with standard therapies.5
EXCEPTIONAL SAFETY
PEA has a high safety rating. To date, there are no reported toxicity issues or serious adverse side effects. In addition to this, there have been no reports of drug-nutrient interactions. This makes PEA a unique pain management option with potent benefits across a wide variety of conditions beyond pain management.6
COMBINATION THERAPY
PEA has been used safely alongside conventional analgesics, such as opioids. Studies demonstrate that a combination therapy involving PEA and pharmaceutical
analgesics not only gives significantly better results but also enhances tolerability of analgesic drugs.
The use of PEA reduces the toxicity or side effects of pharmaceutical analgesics because lower doses of the analgesics are required, leading to better compliance.7
INNOVATIVE POUCH FORMULATIONS
IMCD has formulated OptiPEA® into two gel pouch formats:
1. Opti-Boss is a gel pouch together with Boswelia serrata for optimal pain relief.
2. Opti-Ease highlights the innovative combination of OptiPEA® and OmeGo ® , a full spectrum, unrefined, highly bioavailable salmon oil.
Both formulas have been developed by IMCD’s pharma experts to target several processes involved in pain and inflammation and are based on compelling scientific evidence. Opti-Boss and Opti-Ease formulas can be used as part of an integrative approach to pain or as a stand-alone palatable solution.
With more active lifestyles, consumers prefer flexibility when taking supplements, especially when they are out and about. The pouch format offers a robust, convenient way to match this need and allows for easy labelling.
IMCD is at the forefront of evidence-based nutraceutical formulations that provide safe, effective, market-ready solutions with clinically backed ingredients. •
References available on request
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za
pharmaceutical and nutraceutical companies with high-quality, science-backed ingredients.
As a versatile active, Palmitoylethanolamide (PEA) delivers proven efficacy, safety, and strong consumer appeal [*]. IMCD offers premium raw materials, enabling brands to develop innovative, market-ready solutions that support active lifestyles and holistic wellness.
With extensive technical expertise and passion for innovation, IMCD is your trusted partner in creating the next breakthrough in pain management.
IMCD South Africa
275 Oak Avenue
PO Box 1378
Randburg 2125
South Africa
[*] 1. Passavanti, M. B., Alfieri, A., Pace, M. C., Pota, V.,Sansone, P., Piccinno, G.Fiore, M. (2019). Clinical applications of palmitoylethanolamide in pain management: protocol for a scoping review. Systematic Reviews, 8(1).https://www.researchgate.net/publication/330237213_Clinical_applications_of_palmitoylethanolamide_in_pain_management_protocol_for_a_scoping_review
[*] 2. Paladini, A. et al. (2016). Palmitoylethanolamide, a Special Food forcMedical Purposes, in the Treatment of Chronic Pain: A Pooled DatacMeta-analysis. Pain Physician; 19(2):11-24. https://www.painphysicianjournal.com/current/pdf?article=MjUxMw%3D%3D&journal=94
[*] 3. Kordula Lang-Illievich, Christoph Klivinyi, Gudrun Rumpold-Seitlinger, Christian Dorn and Helmar Bornemann-Cimenti . - Nutrients 2022, 14(19), 4084. The Effect of Palmitoylethanolamide on Pain Intensity, Central and Peripheral Sensitization, and Pain Modulation in Healthy Volunteers—A Randomized, Double-Blinded, Placebo-Controlled Crossover Trial. https://www.mdpi.com/1862216
Cannabis processing solutions for labs
The cannabis industry’s growth has propelled the need for efficient processing techniques in laboratories, catering to expanding applications in healthcare. This article provides lab professionals with a detailed walkthrough of cannabis processing, highlighting the techniques and equipment used at every stage.
1. EXTRACTION METHODS
The first and crucial step in cannabis processing is the extraction of cannabinoids from the plant material. Several methods can be used, each with unique benefits and applications:
• Supercritical CO2 extraction allows for the dissolution of trichomes, where cannabinoids and terpenes are stored, under precise temperature and pressure conditions. This method ensures the selective extraction of desired compounds with minimal residue.
• Hydrocarbon extraction involves solvents like butane and propane to effectively strip cannabinoids and terpenes from the plant. This method is ideal for producing extracts with high terpene content. It is crucial to carry out the process in a controlled environment to ensure safety.
Buchi extraction systems, available in South Africa from Labotec, are designed to control temperature and pressure settings. They ensure maximum yield and purity, safeguarding the integrity of sensitive cannabinoids.
2. CONCENTRATION OF EXTRACTS
Following extraction, concentration is essential to refine the extract by removing excess solvents. To ensure cannabinoids are not degraded during concentration, it is important for the laboratory to precisely control parameters like temperature.
Rotary evaporators take centre stage in this step, employing vacuum and low heat to distil solvents while retaining cannabinoid integrity.
Buchi’s Industrial Rotavapor R-220SE offers safe and efficient industrial distillation by intuitive operation and handling.
3. CANNABINOID SEPARATION
Once concentrated, cannabinoids require further separation to isolate specific compounds like THC and CBD. Advanced techniques include:
• Flash chromatography, which is a rapid method crucial for isolating cannabinoids. It
By Abby Vorster
uses a stationary phase supported by mobile phases to achieve purification.
• Preparative high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), which is necessary when higher purity or precision is required. This technique allows for the exact separation of cannabinoids and the removal of impurities, ensuring product safety and compliance.
For this step, Labotec offers the Pure range of chromatography instruments, which are extremely compact and ensure high level safety.
" Labotec’s near-infrared spectroscopy equipment offers quick and precise analysis of cannabinoid content "
These state-of-the-art flash chromatography and preparative HPLCs with UV detectors facilitate both aforementioned separation processes, yielding cannabinoid purities ranging from 92% to 98%.
4. SOLVENT RECYCLING AND POST-SEPARATION CONCENTRATION
Maximising efficiency, solvent recycling is an integral part of the purification process. Rotary evaporators in the Rotavapor series not only concentrate cannabinoids but also ensure solvent recovery for subsequent use. Systems like the Rotavapor R-220 SE offer continuous operation capabilities, enhancing output while minimising manual intervention.
5. WINTERISATION
This represents a vital refinement phase aimed at removing fats, waxes and lipids post-extraction. By dissolving cannabis extracts in ethanol and subjecting them to
low temperatures, winterisation ensures the purity and consistency of the isolate. Filtration systems used in winterisation must be highly efficient and capable of operating at low temperatures to effectively separate unwanted compounds without compromising cannabinoid quality.
6. QUALITY CONTROL AND ASSURANCE
It is essential to ensure medical cannabis products meet stringent quality standards. Labotec’s near-infrared spectroscopy equipment and the Novasina LabMaster NEO offer quick and precise analysis of cannabinoid content, moisture levels and water activity.
A PARTNER IN PROCESSING EQUIPMENT
By employing the advanced lab solutions sold in South Africa by Labotec, laboratories can navigate the complexities of cannabis processing with greater efficacy and precision. Each step – from extraction to quality control – relies on specialised equipment and knowledge, underpinning the production of cannabis products that meet regulatory and consumer expectations. •
Labotec
– www.labotec.co.za
Buchi C-700
In-process testing for medical cannabis
Testing is important to ensure medical cannabis products meet quality standards.
However, the pace of testing isn’t meeting the industry’s growth rate.
Beccy Bell, associate director of laboratory services at Broughton, a UK-based testing and regulatory consultancy, explains how in-process testing can quickly meet the demand of cannabinoid growers.
As the market continues to grow, medicinal cannabis producers face increasing pressure to deliver consistent, high-quality products while meeting strict production timelines. This includes variability in cannabinoid content, inefficiencies in testing processes, and delays in receiving actionable data. This can all adversely impact workflows, profitability, and market entry.
In the UK, cannabis is a Schedule 1 controlled substance. Therefore, it is subject to enhanced controls and can only be handled at facilities holding a Schedule 1 controlled drugs licence.
Testing is required to meet the highquality standards set out in the British Pharmacopoeia of July 2024. It should be done in a timely manner, yet this is difficult for the medicinal cannabis market. There are limitations on the facilities that are authorised to handle Schedule 1 substances which creates challenges around the rate at which testing can be done.
A COLLABORATIVE AND TRANSPARENT
APPROACH
In-process testing forms part of a routine check in the production process. Samples are taken to assess the THC or CBD content as expected. While in-process testing is typically a reduced suite of analysis, it can be used to detect unexpected changes in the cannabis flower, providing a quality control check within a shorter timeframe.
One way of addressing this is for growers to work closely with contract research organisations (CROs) to do in-process testing.
Both the grower and the testing organisation need to be transparent about sample preparation and tests carried out by either party to ensure the process is smooth and efficient.
Cannabis growers who have lab capacity should establish a plan when they are harvesting. The CRO needs to assess its ability to meet the target concentration set out by the grower. This involves the CRO working with growers by sharing dried flower preparation instructions to start the extraction. These are then sent to the CRO for analysis.
The process allows for more regular testing throughout the growth cycle. It also helps to assist in determining the optimal harvest time and can help reduce downtime in production.
"
In-process testing forms part of a routine check in the production process"
Furthermore, analysis demonstrating the evidence of a flower’s properties is a collaborative process. The CRO will want to see the repeatability and reproducibility of the extraction performed by the grower – like the acceptance criteria used in pharmaceutical analytical method transfers.
SOLUTIONS TO FUEL THE INDUSTRY’S FUTURE
The medicinal cannabis market continues to evolve. While the plant material will always be the starting point, Broughton is discussing
the next phase with its clients. This includes extracts, oils and finished products. The potential for growth in the industry is positive, reinforcing Broughton’s position as an innovation partner to the industry.
With Broughton’s in-process testing offering, Schedule 1 License, familiarity with Pharmacopeia and 15 years of GMP compliance, customers can receive data on THC and CBD levels in a cannabis plant within 48 hours. This turnaround allows growers to make quick decisions regarding their cultivation processes.
Apart from its quick turnaround in cannabis testing, Broughton also offers an assistive platform that allows actionable insights into cannabinoid trends, along with the batch release testing and in-house stability studies to help bring your medicinal cannabis product to market faster. •
Did you know?
The medicinal cannabis market has grown significantly and is estimated to be valued at $50 billion by 2030, driven by widespread legalisation across multiple jurisdictions.
Broughton –www.broughton-group.com
Setting new standards for clearer, balanced skin
Designed to target common issues like oily and combination skin, Matmarine™ biotech ingredient offers teens a solution that reduces shine, minimises pore visibility and maintains hydration. By Abby Vorster
One of the key challenges of teenage skin is oily and/or combination skin, characterised by shininess, enlarged pores and undesirable blemishes. Matmarine™ biotech ingredient crafted by Lubrizol Life Science is designed to reduce sebum accumulation. With its impressive in vitro and in vivo efficacy, it offers immediate and longlasting mattifying and hydration effects.
THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE INGREDIENT
Derived from a marine microorganism, Matmarine™ biotech ingredient boasts anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and hydrating properties. It works its magic by reducing the MC5-R protein, which is a marker of sebocyte
differentiation and lipid storage, directly linked to sebum production.
In different ethnicities, it helps improve the appearance of combination and oily skin while keeping it hydrated. The ingredient not only combats excessive lipid build-up but also promotes type I collagen production, enhancing skin’s firmness. It is backed by a wealth of clinical studies conducted on diverse ethnicities:
• African skin – when tested on 22 women aged 18 to 45 with combination to oily skin, a 28-day application of 3% Matmarine™ biotech ingredient showed a significant decrease of 20.1% in pore visibility, effectively reducing shininess while maintaining hydration. See figure1.
• Caucasian volunteers – a 28-day trial on 20 women aged 20 to 35 resulted in a 20.5% pore count reduction and smaller pores by 18.8% in just two weeks. There was also visible reduction in skin shine and sebum production.
• Asian participants – this 28-day study on 20 women aged 20 to 35 resulted in a reduction in active sebaceous follicles by 27.2%, marking a significant decrease in sebum production.
• Men’s skin – this seven-day study on 31 Caucasian men yielded a noticeable reduction in pores and enhanced moisturisation, both short- and long-term.
BENEFITS FOR TEENAGE SKIN
Matmarine™ biotech ingredient is particularly appealing for teenage skincare formulations. It helps to reduce oil production, keeping skin shine-free while maintaining hydration. It also reduces the appearance of pores for smoother skin texture.
"Matmarine™ biotech ingredient is particularly appealing for teenage skincare formulations"
Figure 1: Framescan software was used to analyse images of the cheek area (close to the nose wing), to determine the coefficient of pore visibility after 28 days of treatment
The ingredient is universally appealing, making it suitable for all skin types and genders, aligning with the diversity-focused ethos of contemporary skincare brands.
Skincare brands can leverage Matmarine™ biotech ingredient for an array of claims, asserting benefits such as ‘reduces oiliness and shininess’, ‘minimises enlarged pores’, and ‘balances skin hydration’.
The ingredient can be integrated seamlessly into various formulations, with a recommended dosage of 2% to 5%. Its water-soluble and natural origin ensures compatibility with facial and body care products, even for sensitive teenage skin.
Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, this versatile ingredient offers a scientifically proven approach to address teenage skin woes, promising radiant and well-balanced skin. With Matmarine™ biotech ingredient, skincare brands can confidently design products that appeal to the diverse needs of the teenage demographic, ensuring a harmonious complexion for every teen, every day. •
Lubrizol Life Science –www.lubrizol.com/Life-Science
Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za
BakuLipid for mild and effective breakout care
To provide teenagers with a way to maintain clear and healthy skin without harsh side effects, AECI Specialty Chemicals offers effective solutions like BakuLipid, a mild yet potent blemish-fighting ingredient.
Navigating skincare as a teenager can be overwhelming.
Hormonal changes during adolescence often lead to an increase in skin concerns such as breakouts, oily patches and sensitivity.
Teenage years come with a surge in hormones that stimulate oil production, leading to clogged pores and breakouts. Additionally, the skin’s barrier can become more sensitive, reacting to environmental stressors or the wrong skincare products.
"
Teenage skin requires patience and consistency "
The key to maintaining healthy teenage skin is balancing oil production, keeping pores clear, and choosing gentle, effective skincare products. All this is achievable with AECI Specialty Chemicals’ innovative skincare solutions like BakuLipid, Hydro-Gain, Iselux Ultra Mild and Tagua Abrasive.
WHAT IS BAKULIPID?
This is a plant-based skincare ingredient derived from bakuchiol, which is a natural alternative to retinol. Known for its antiinflammatory and antimicrobial properties, BakuLipid (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Bakuchiol (and) Lecithin (and) Tocopherol) works wonders on blemish-prone skin by reducing inflammation and targeting breakouts. Its recommended usage level is 0.5% to 5% in a formulation.
INCORPORATING BAKULIPID INTO A SKINCARE ROUTINE
BakuLipid offers a host of formulation benefits. It is mild and gentle on teenager’s sensitive skin with no added irritants. The technology is suitable for oily or acne prone skin, and leaves skin feeling clean and hydrated.
A GOOD FOUNDATION FOR BEAUTIFUL SKIN
Teenage skin requires patience and consistency. Building a simple yet effective skincare routine, using the right products, and adopting a healthy lifestyle will lay the foundation for beautiful skin for years to come.
• Gentle on the skin, unlike traditional acne treatments that can cause redness and peeling.
• Effective against blemishes, as it helps reduce the appearance of pimples and blemishes.
• Natural alternative to retinol, delivering retinol-like benefits without the associated irritation.
• Balances oil production by helping regulate sebum levels, making BakuLipid suitable for oily teenage skin.
KEY BENEFITS OF BAKULIPID:
Figure 1: In vivo results showing an improvement in reducing sebum production
Method:
1. Phase A preparation: Add aqua to the main mixing vessel. Add the rest of Phase A ingredients one after the other mixing well before adding each. Mix until uniform.
2. Phase B preparation: In a separate vessel, blend Polysorbate 20 with BakuLipid. Mix until a homogenous solution forms.
3. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A under moderate stirring. Continue mixing until the solution is uniform.
4. Phase C: add Aculyn 22 and mix thoroughly.
5. Phase D: add PE91 preservative and mix thoroughly.
6. Adjust pH to 6.0 to 6.8 using Phase D.
Brands should educate consumers on how to care for teenage skin. For example, avoid over-washing, as excessive cleansing can strip the skin and trigger increased oil production. Resist the urge to pop pimples, as this increases the risk of scarring and infection. Choosing a gentle yet effective ingredient like BakuLipid can help address blemishes without causing irritation. Let AECI Specialty Chemicals help transform your skincare formulations targeted at teenagers. •
Did you know?
BakuLipid is a COSMOS- and NATRUE-approved, plant-derived alternative to retinol with equivalent beauty benefits for clear and youthful skin. It is a blend of bakuchiol obtained from seeds of Psoralea corylifolia and unsaturated phospholipids for skin penetration enhancement.
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