AFRICA
Solar & milky notes trend in fine fragrance
AFRICA
4 NEWS
New guide to identify flexible plastic tube solutions
Nouryon achieves ISCC PLUS certification for green DME
Achieve radiant skin with new GlowCytocin
7 HAIR CARE
Reduce water use with instant rinse conditioner
9 SKINCARE
A cost-effective solution for mild cleansing formulations
Safe ingredients for skin brightening and even tone
Care for sensitive skin with botanicals from Croda Beauty
15 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS
Unlock the potential of galenIQ™ 721 in vit C supplements
VEGA presents a ‘cure’ for measurement headaches in manufacturing
CJP’s high-quality excipients for pharmaceutical products
21 FRAGRANCES
Iberchem explores solar and milky notes trends in fine fragrance
New Dubai hub to boost fragrance innovation for Moellhausen
Redefining beauty and wellness across Africa
Welcome to the Q1 edition of P&C Review Africa – a celebration of innovation, sustainability and the transformative impact of the beauty and pharmaceutical industries across the continent.
In this issue, we delve into the dynamic worlds of hair care and skincare, shedding light on the exciting advancements catering to today’s discerning consumer. From Cargill Beauty's game-changing hair conditioner system that supports water conservation to safe active ingredients for skin brightening, this edition highlights how technology and nature are harmoniously redefining personal care. The pharmaceutical section brings you closer to novel excipients that are transforming the production of vitamin C supplements and other pharma products.
Learn more about the ways in which these ingredients tackle common issues like moisture sensitivity and taste masking.
For fragrance enthusiasts, discover the bold trends from Iberchem which are bridging fine fragrances with personal care. We also share news of Moellhausen’s dedicated centre in Dubai – set to intensify fragrance innovation for Africa and the Middle East.
This edition of P&C Review Africa is your gateway to understanding how suppliers and manufacturers are pushing boundaries to align with sustainability and holistic wellness.
AECI Specialty Chemicals 11 www.aeciworld.com/specialty-chemicals
Paar Southern Africa 3 www.anton-paar.com
Chempack Industries 5 www.cpack.co.za CJP Chemicals 20 www.cjpchemicals.co.za
Beauty 14 www.crodabeauty.com/en-gb
22 iberchem.com IMCD SA 10 www.imcdsa.co.za
24 www.moellhausen.com Nautica Organics ........................................ 8 ........................www.nauticaorganics.com
Fine Chemicals.......................... 7 ........................www.savannah.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals 16 www.savannah.co.za
VEGA Controls SA 18 tinyurl.com/PCRVEGAza
New guide to identify flexible plastic tube solutions
BERRY GLOBAL HAS launched an e-book, which provides a comprehensive overview of the flexible plastic tubes market to better inform customers in their choice of packaging.
Available for free download, the Berry Guide to Flexible Plastic Tubes details the following:
• the many benefits of tubes
• the different products for which tubes are suitable
• the choice of materials and formats available
• the important factors that brands should consider when selecting the most suitable tube for an application. “To the consumer, all tubes may look pretty similar, but there are many types of tube packaging on the market to meet a wide variety of requirements,” says Joe Horton, sales director, CPI, of Berry Global. “Our e-book will help to ensure
We hope our e-book will support customers in the selection process
brand owners and manufacturers find the right solution in terms of their product characteristics and branding objectives.”
The flexible plastic tubes market remains fast-growing with Mordor Intelligence predicting that it will reach approximately $9.5 billion by 2029 rising at a CAGR of approximately 7.39%. While closely associated with the beauty and personal care sector, tubes are finding favour in several other markets including pharmaceuticals, home care, food, and lubricants.
Much of this versatility is due to the variety of polymers available which can match a product’s requirements in areas such as protection and squeezability, along with a choice of neck finishes and closures. They also deliver consumer convenience, while the wide decoration area allows effective branding. The availability of mono-material tubes for easier recycling in the regions where the appropriate recycling infrastructure is in place, and tubes that incorporate post-consumer recycled plastic, may help business meet their sustainability commitments.
“While the flexible plastic tube is a familiar format, its ability to be tailored to individual application and branding requirements provides a wealth of opportunities,” said Horton.
“We hope our e-book will support customers in the selection process.”
The Berry Guide to Flexible Plastic Tubes is the first in a planned series of e-books from Berry Global, designed to help businesses in their packaging decision making.
To download a copy of the Guide, visit: www.berryglobal.com/-/media/berry/ files/hosted-documents/flexible-tubesebook.ashx
Nouryon achieves ISCC PLUS certification for green DME
AT ITS MANUFACTURING site in Rotterdam, the Netherlands, Nouryon has been certified to the International Sustainability and Carbon Certification standard (ISCC) PLUS for the production of dimethyl ether (DME). This milestone highlights the commitment of the specialty chemicals company to offering sustainable alternatives that help customers reduce their carbon footprints without compromising on quality and performance.
The ISCC PLUS certification – one of the world’s largest, independent certification systems for sustainability – covers all sustainable feedstocks, including biomass, circular materials, and renewables. This certification uses the mass balance approach to verify that sustainable feedstocks are fully traceable throughout the supply chain.
“Our ISCC PLUS certification for DME at our Rotterdam site marks a significant step in Nouryon’s commitment to environmental stewardship and responsible sourcing,” said David Friedinger, vice president, personal care and pharma at Nouryon. “Our customers’ interest in sustainable products is growing and we are expanding our renewable chemicals range to meet this demand. This certification underscores our commitment to providing greener products that address market needs.”
DME is an essential component in a wide range of personal care applications. As an efficient propellant, it is widely used in aerosol-based products including hair sprays, deodorants, and sunscreen sprays, where it helps deliver a fine, even mist for smooth application and user convenience. Additionally, DME’s solvent properties make it valuable in hair colour sprays and dry shampoos, enabling consistent texture and even distribution of ingredients.
Nouryon’s Rotterdam site joins the company’s other ISCC PLUS certifications, underscoring its commitment to improving the environmental footprint across its global manufacturing sites and broadening its portfolio of sustainable solutions.
As a manufacturer of specialty chemicals, Nouryon works to ensure that its products meet or exceed industry benchmarks for sustainability without sacrificing performance.
Neurocosmetic active ingredient for radiant skin
LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS by Clariant is excited to announce the global launch of GlowCytocin. This is the first skin care ingredient that harnesses the benefits associated with the feeling of being in love. The breakthrough ingredient activates oxytocin receptors to deliver multiple scientifically proven skin benefits.
“GlowCytocin is a significant step forward in neurocosmetics and skincare, offering immediate and long-term benefits for skin appearance and emotional well-being,” says Isabelle Lacasse, head of global marketing, product line management and formulation at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant. “This innovation aligns with the growing consumer demand for multi-functional skincare products that deliver both visible results and positive emotions.”
GlowCytocin (INCI: Glycerin and Water and Hyacinthus Orientalis (Hyacinth) Extract) is derived from the bulbs of white hyacinth, a plant that symbolises pure love. Able to activate the oxytocin receptors in the skin, GlowCytocin biomimics many of the beneficial effects of oxytocin, known as the love molecule. In vitro and organon-a-chip studies have shown that GlowCytocin increases the proliferation of fibroblasts and sensory neurons, promoting skin rejuvenation and heightening skin receptivity to pleasant tactile sensations.
In a placebo-controlled clinical study of 60 male and female mixed-ethnicity volunteers (between the ages of 18 and 65), twice daily application of 1% GlowCytocin for 28 days visibly and significantly enhanced the participants’ skin appearance. Skin luminosity and healthy glow also increased.
We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!
We supply raw materials to create innovative cosmetics and personal care products!
High Quality
Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes
Polyquaterniums and Hair Care
High Quality
Cosmetics Consumables
Convenient Smaller Pack Sizes
Products – To Facilitate Hair Handling and Styling
Cosmetics Consumables
Chempack Industries
Contact: Linda Thieme
083 600 0167
Chempack Industries
Contact: Linda Thieme
064 610 2736
Email: linda@cpack.co.za
083 600 0167
064 610 2736
Website: www.cpack.co.za
Email: linda@cpack.co.za
Website: www.cpack.co.za
GlowCytocin is derived from the bulbs of white hyacinth
GMP Pharma Congress
8 to 9 April
Wiesbaden, Germany
www.pharma-congress.com
in-cosmetics Global
8 to 10 April
Barcelona, Spain
www.in-cosmetics.com/global
Beautyworld Saudi Arabia
21 to 23 April
Saudi Arabia, UAE
https://tinyurl.com/4hpsjryz
May
Coschem JHB Supplier Day
Joburg, South Africa www.coschem.co.za
June
Coschem CT Supplier Day
Cape Town, South Africa www.coschem.co.za Propak China
to 26 June Shanghai, China
Reduce water use with instant rinse conditioner
Experience the innovation of Cargill Beauty’s lamellar phase-free and silicone-free conditioner, providing instant rinse for reduced water use. Dr Emmanuel Everaert, global innovation, principal scientist of Cargill Beauty, discusses the technology in this article.
Components such as silicones are often used for their conditioning properties and great aesthetics on the hair.
However, most of these components have an impact on the environment, first because of their polluting manufacturing process, and secondly because they are not biodegradable and therefore contaminate water.1 For instance, when a siliconebased shampoo or conditioner is rinsed off in the shower, it remains in the water and has the potential for accumulation in aquatic organisms. Studies have also shown that cationic surfactants cause differentiated toxicity towards marine species (fish, crustaceans, algae, and bacteria) and most are not readily biodegradable.2
Replacing the lamellar phase
Hair conditioner performance is mostly driven by the lamellar phase structure (cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols), and silicones.
As a result, the typical rinsing time in the shower is long. To overcome this challenge, Cargill Beauty proposes a novel hair conditioner structure that has instant rinse properties (in shower) as well as great wet and excellent dry conditioning feel performance.
For this purpose, the lamellar phase is replaced with three ingredients:
1. Actigum™ CS 11 QD (INCI: Sclerotium Gum), used for its hair conditioning and high yield stabilisation performance.
2. StarDesign™ Power (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (and) Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate) is an innovative blend of starches with a great ability to
Saving
water and time in the shower?
Discover our solution for instant rinse conditioners
Consumers are increasingly concerned about the impact of the products they use on the environment. At the same time they don’t want to compromise on performance and are looking for efficiency gains. Cargill experts have developed a new conditioner structure without lamellar phase that requires 7 times less water and time to rinse in the shower, while maintaining excellent conditioning properties . Curious to learn how this solution can elevate your next conditioner launch? Scan the QR code to see our video or contact our team at beauty@cargill.com.
Cargill Beauty’s selected emollient blends can match the performance of silicones on dry hair with lower combing forces
Learn more about Cargill Beauty ingredients at www.cargillbeauty.com
stabilise emulsions and deliver pleasing sensorial benefits.
3. StarDesign™ Care (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate), a starch for additional texture build of the hair conditioner.
Significant reduction in water use
A very low water level is needed to rinse the novel instant-care hair conditioner.
Measurements in a controlled lab rinsing flow rate study on hair switches estimated an approximate 7x reduction in water usage. The exact amount of rinsing water that is saved will always depend on consumer shower flow characteristics with the opportunity to reduce water consumption by 7x when rinsing hair in the shower.
A reduction in hot water usage has also been shown to reduce one’s overall carbon footprint. In line with this, the manufacturing process of the instant-care hair conditioner uses a lower temperature (45°C to 50°C), which is a significant energy saving compared to current high temperature hair conditioner production processes.
Replacing the silicone phase
The dry conditioning performance is principally driven by the addition of silicones, which are neither sustainable nor biodegradable. Cargill Beauty’s selected emollient blends can match the performance of silicones on dry hair with lower combing forces. Great hair alignment and curl definition have also been measured. This new approach to hair conditioners allows for a novel structure that has instant adsorption characteristics on hair as well as great wet and excellent dry conditioning feel performance.
For this purpose, the silicone(s) phase is replaced with two ingredients:
1. Sustainable cocoa butter (INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter) for a pleasing conditioning experience.
2. Agri-Pure AP620 (INCI: Hydrogenated Coconut Oi) for its additional conditioning power on hair and perfect fibre alignment in dry hair.
The combination of these two emollients acts as an ideal alternative to silicones, delivering a pleasant dry feel and visually beautiful hair.
Contact Savannah Fine Chemicals, Cargill Beauty’s agent in Southern Africa, for more information on the instant-care hair conditioner.
nNatural and Organic Ingredients
• Organic Castor oil. Batana oil, Argan oil, Cocoa Butter and Shea butter
A cost-effective solution for mild cleansing formulations
Nouryon has introduced Structure® M3 co-surfactant to meet the need for more gentle, natural cleansing solutions. This biodegradable polymeric surfactant enhances mildness and reduces irritation potential in conventional systems without the need for costly reformulation.
Consumers increasingly seek cleansing solutions that are more natural and milder than conventional synthetic formulas. Between 2019 and 2023, the global percentage of new product launches claiming ‘suitable for sensitive skin’ grew from 37% to 48% at the
aggregate level for the shower products, shampoo and facial cleanser categories. Historically, formulators have relied on milder surfactants, typically with much greater cost, when formulating for mildness and sensitive skin. Nouryon pursued a unique approach by focusing on making commonly used surfactant systems milder without significantly increasing costs or changing the surfactant chassis.
Based on the concept of increasing the micelle size to reduce skin penetration, Nouryon developed Structure® M3 co-surfactant to increase the average micelle size of commonly used surfactant systems. This innovation offers formulators an additional mechanism to achieve mildness.
Micelle size in the mildness relationship
In 2003, authors Moore, Puvvada and Blankschtein challenged the formerly held conclusion that only free surfactant monomers penetrate the skin and cause irritation. 2 They concluded that, indeed, surfactant micelles can also penetrate
the skin. More importantly, authors Gosh and Blankschtien later determined that larger micelles can minimise the degree of surfactant skin penetration. 3
Recognising the widespread acknowledgment that surfactants must penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) to cause irritation, Nouryon concentrated on enhancing the average size of micelles to achieve mildness.
Increasing the micelle size
Structure® M3 co-surfactant was evaluated in common surfactant systems at 8% and 15% total surfactant actives to determine the optimal dosing required to achieve statistically significant increases in micelle size.
The micelle sizes were measured using a Malvern Zetasizer Nano. For brevity, data for two of the popular systems tested Sodium Laureth Sulfate / Cocamidopropyl Betaine (SLES/CAPB) and Alpha Olefin Sulfonate / Cocamidopropyl Betaine (AOS/CAPB), are presented in figures 1 and 2.
In each system, Structure® M3 cosurfactant proportionally displaced the primary and secondary surfactants at values between 0.5% and 5%. For example, the starting system in figure 1 was 11.25% SLES actives and 3.75% CAPB actives The co-surfactant was first introduced at 0.5% actives, and SLES and CAPB were reduced to 10.875% and 3.625% respectively.
In both the SLES/CAPB and AOS/CAPB systems, at 15% total surfactant, a statistically significant increase in the average micelle size was observed when Structure® M3 co-surfactant was introduced at 5%.
This similarity did not hold for all systems evaluated, leading Nouryon to conclude that the recommended use levels are highly
system dependent. Considerations must be made for the individual surfactants employed as well as the total surfactant actives.
Structure® M3 co-surfactant allows formulators to enhance the mildness of their products naturally and sustainably
Did you know?
Increasing the size of surfactant micelles reduces skin penetration and irritation potential. Nouryon’s biodegradable Structure® M3 co-surfactant offers a cost-effective way to create mild, sustainable cleansing formulations without sacrificing cleansing power.
In vitro prediction of skin irritation
The Zein solubility test (or Zein test) is a commonly used in vitro method to predict the mildness of a surfactant system or cleanser. It is based on zein, a corn protein, which closely resembles the protein keratin found in skin and hair. The test measures the percentage of zein protein solubilised by surfactants and the results correlate well to those performed on human skin. 4 It is important to note that increasing zein solubilised correlates with increasing skin irritancy. After the optimal dosage of Structure® M3 co-surfactant was identified for each of the surfactant-and-total-actives combinations, the system was tested for zein solubility. The results further substantiated that dosing is highly system dependent. For instance, Structure® M3 co-surfactant at 5% in an AOS/CAPB system at 15% total actives lowers the irritation potential by 19% whereas in an SMCT/CAPB system at 15% total actives, half the dosage (2.5%) can achieve close to the same reduction potential (17%).
A sustainable time-saving solution
Available throughout Southern Africa from IMCD South Africa, Structure® M3 co-surfactant is a sulphate-free starch-based secondary surfactant that reduces the irritation potential of surfactant systems without compromising the cleansing properties or foaming benefits.
It has a Renewable Carbon Index (RCI) of 77% and Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 85. It is readily biodegradable (per OECD 301B5), non-GMO, cold-water processible and compatible with multiple surfactant systems.
Increasing consumer focus on milder cleansing creates opportunities for formulators to introduce new and more natural cleanser solutions. Structure® M3 co-surfactant presents an option to reformulate without having to completely change the current chassis. This saves costs and time for the formulator. In addition to demonstrating the ability to increase micelle size, in vitro zein solubility testing provides further indication that incorporation of Structure® M3 co-surfactant reduces irritation potential, which can be equated to a milder system overall.
REFERENCES:
1. Mintel, US Facial Care 2023
2. Challenging the surfactant monomer skin penetration model: Penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into the epidermis (Peter N. Moore, Sudhakar Puvvada, and Daniel Blankschtein, 2022)
3. Why is sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) mild to the skin barrier? – An in vitro investigation based on the relative sizes of the SCI micelles and the skin aqueous pores (Saswata Ghosh and Daniel Blankschtein, 2007)
4. DB-ALM Protocol No. 26: The Zein Test (ECVAM DB-ALM: Protocol)
5. OECD 301B: Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development – aligned test that uses respirometry to determine the biodegradability of the material
Reformulating has never been this easy with this sulphate-free solution which effectively reduces irritation while maintaining foaming and cleansing performance.
products without major reformulation.
Figure 3: Statistically significant reduction in solubilised zein
Safe solutions for skin brightening and even tone
This article explores the traditional brightening agents in cosmetics, their limitations, and how AECI Specialty Chemicals’ natural, safe alternatives provide effective solutions for skin brightening and even skin tone.
Skin brightening and achieving an even skin tone are common claims associated with many cosmetic products. Over time, consumers have sought solutions that not only improve the appearance of their skin but also maintain or restore its health. While traditional brightening
CITROLUMINE 8®
agents have been widely used in the beauty industry, their safety and efficacy have become more of a concern.
Safer alternatives from AECI Specialty Chemicals include Depigmentation Factor 2U, HerbaGlow NRG, Liposome C Eco, and Citrolumine 8.
Traditional
skin brightening agents
Several traditional ingredients have been used in skin-brightening formulations for decades. These include:
• Hydroquinone, which has long been a go-to for treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots. However, its use has raised safety concerns due to its potential side effects, including skin irritation, ochronosis (a bluish-black discoloration of the skin), and concerns over long-term use leading to systemic toxicity.
• Steroids , such as topical corticosteroids, have been used to reduce skin inflammation and lighten dark spots. However, prolonged use can lead to skin thinning, delayed wound healing, and the development of steroid-induced skin issues.
• Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), like glycolic and lactic acid, are used to exfoliate the skin, revealing a brighter complexion. While generally safe, they can cause sensitivity, especially when overused or used without proper sun protection.
The need for safer alternatives
As consumers become more educated about skincare and more conscious of the ingredients in their products, the demand for safer, more sustainable alternatives
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION FOR CITROLUMINE 8
• Use level recommended at 1%
• Suited to products for skin tone brightening, lightening, and evening of skin complexion
• Anti-ageing products
• Products that address age spots.
to traditional skin brightening agents increases. The need for products that deliver efficacy without compromising skin health has led to the rise of natural and biocompatible ingredients in skincare formulations.
AECI Specialty Chemicals leverages leading suppliers of natural ingredients which are at the forefront of providing safe, effective and sustainable solutions for skin brightening and even tone. These ingredients focus on harnessing the power of nature while minimising risks for irritation or long-term skin damage.
CITROLUMINE 8 IN FOCUS
• INCI name: Glycerin, Aqua, Lecithin, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
• Highly concentrated liposomalencapsulated citroflavonoid mix extracted from citrus fruits
• Liposome that is 100nm to 300nm in size
• Preservative-free
• Glycerin-based
• Supplied as a liquid.
Safe and natural solutions
AECI Specialty Chemicals’ offers a range of high-quality, plant-based ingredients that are perfect for those looking to brighten their skin and even their tone while avoiding the pitfalls of traditional, potentially harmful agents.
Citrolumine 8 is a powerful skinbrightening ingredient derived from natural citrus extracts. It acts by inhibiting melanin synthesis and neutralising free radicals, which can cause oxidative stress and contribute to skin discoloration. Citrolumine 8 is an ideal ingredient for skin-brightening formulations aimed at evening out skin
tone, as it provides brightening and antioxidant benefits, making it a safe and effective alternative to more aggressive brightening agents.
In vivo study results
A study was carried out to assess the skin tone brightening and age spot fading efficacy of Citrolumine 8. An Asian test panel (n=20) applied 1% Citrolumine 8 in a cosmetic lotion, or a 2% vitamin C benchmark twice a day on the full dorsal forearms, over 56 days. Skin brightening and lightening effects were compared using two different methods.
Firstly, skin brightening and lightening were determined by measuring changes in L*-value (skin lightness) with standardised and normalised photographic evaluation. Secondly, the individual topology angle (ITA° value) representing the skin phototype was measured with a skin colorimeter to determine skin brightening and lightening effects.
By embracing these natural and safe alternatives, formulators can create products that meet the demands of
consumers in terms of efficacy and skin safety, making skin brightening not just a cosmetic benefit, but also a holistic approach to skin health.
Figure 1: Reduction of melanocyte proliferation – Citrolumine 8 induces the expression of IL1α and down-regulates the expression of PCNA, resulting in a reduced proliferation of melanocytes and lower melanin content in the skin
Day 56 Day 0
Figure 4: Exemplary images of brightening and lightening effects of 1% Citrolumine 8 on of Asian forearm skin
Did you know?
A recent study determined that 70% of individuals identify as having sensitive skin.
Increasing consumer awareness of the causes of sensitive skin along with a shift to natural and multifunctional ingredients are driving significant demand for products that are gentle yet effective. What are the sensitive skin market dynamics? Sensitive skin is characterised by heightened reactivity to external factors, often resulting in redness, irritation and discomfort. Consumers are becoming more worried about how modern life and environmental threats, like pollution, affect their skin. As a result, they’re more likely to look for skincare products that address their specific needs.
Sensitive skincare is no longer a niche segment – it is a booming category driving innovation in the personal care industry.
Botanicals for sensitive skin
Croda Beauty unlocks the potential for natural ingredients in personal care.
Dominated by the APAC region closely followed by North America, the cosmetic market for sensitive skin is expected to reach more than $80 billion by 2030 according to Grand View Research, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of about 9% from 2023. The demand has never been greater for gentle, effective solutions that address the needs of sensitive skin, and it constitutes a stable and growing global trend in personal care industry.
While specific data for Sub-Saharan Africa is limited, the Middle East & Africa (MEA) sensitive skincare products market was valued at approximately $3.36 billion in 2023. Projections suggest this market will grow at a CAGR of 9.4%, reaching around $6.28 billion by 2030.
Consumer expectations
Market trends underscore a shift towards the following expectations:
• Demand for natural products – consumers are increasingly seeking natural and organic personal care products, perceiving them as safer and more suitable for sensitive skin.
• Simplified skincare routines – minimalist skincare routines with multifunctional products appeal to consumers looking for effective yet gentle solutions.
• Technological advancements – innovations such as neuro-cosmetics are gaining traction. These products address the brainskin connection.
These developments offer exciting opportunities for botanical extracts. Botanicals are uniquely positioned to address these trends by offering a combination of naturalness, multifunctionality and innovation. In this article, we explore botanicals that are suitable for sensitive skin and highlight six standout natural ingredients from Croda Beauty, which are tested to be non-irritant.
Natural fermented postbiotic
Crodarom Cider Vinegar EC is a natural fermented postbiotic rich in acetic acid. Recent tests have demonstrated that it regulates the skin’s microbiome, moisturises dry skin and offers a bacteriostatic effect.
This versatile ingredient is particularly relevant for minimalist formulations, appealing to healthconscious consumers seeking natural, effective solutions.
Produced sustainably from cider vinegar of certified geographical origin in France, Crodarom Cider Vinegar EC combines innovation with tradition. It’s able to target issues like blemishes,
Unlock the potential of galenIQ™ 721 in vit C supplements
Pharma manufacturers are always looking for ways to make better products more efficiently. In line with this trend, Beneo’s galenIQ™ 721 is transforming
the production of vitamin C supplements. It tackles common issues like moisture sensitivity and taste masking, offering an efficient excipient to create high-quality tablets.
The global vitamin C supplement market is expanding rapidly. The market was valued at around $1.95 billion in 2023, with an expected compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.3% from 2024 to 2030. This market growth shows increasing consumer awareness around the health benefits of vitamin C.
As an immune booster, skin enhancer and potent antioxidant, vitamin C is positioned at the forefront of meeting consumer demand in health and wellness. However, manufacturers face significant
challenges in producing stable, high-quality vitamin C tablets.
The complex properties of ascorbic acid and the requirements needed to ensure stability and quality present a unique set of challenges when manufacturing vitamin C supplements. At the heart of overcoming these hurdles lies Beneo’s galenIQ™ 721, a versatile ingredient designed to act as a perfect filler-binder, capable of transforming the way vitamin C supplements are produced
Did you know?
galenIQ™ 721 is designed to streamline manufacturing while maintaining consistent supplement quality. It ensures excellent flow and mixing properties, high compactability, and formulation stability.
– whether they are swallowable, chewable, or effervescent tablets.
A solution for every challenge
In this article, P&C Review Africa outlines six main challenges associated with producing vitamin C supplements and how galenIQ™ 721 supports manufacturers to overcome them:
1. Moisture sensitivity – vitamin C’s sensitivity to moisture can lead to degradation over time. galenIQ™ 721 stands
out by being non-hygroscopic, offering an ideal solution for ensuring the longevity and integrity of finished products.
2. Flow and compressibility issues – ascorbic acid’s poor flow and compressibility characteristics can hinder production. With galenIQ™ 721, manufacturers benefit from exceptional flow and mixing properties, which enhances compressibility and streamlines production processes.
3. Sticking and capping – sticking to punches and dies during compression is a common ailment in tablet production. When tested under various climatic conditions, galenIQ™ 721 showed no sticking, thus ensuring smooth production.
4. Heat sensitivity – vitamin C’s heat sensitivity requires gentle handling during processing. Thanks to its ability to compress under low forces without significant heat generation, galenIQ™ 721 maintains the stability of the vitamin throughout production.
5. Taste masking – the raw, acidic taste of vitamin C demands effective masking solutions. Derived from sugar beet, galenIQ™ 721 effectively masks unwanted tastes, improving the overall consumer experience. Ultimately it improves the flavour profiles of vitamins, bringing a pleasant, sweet taste to the forefront of health supplements.
6. Stable interactions – stable and consistent formulations are crucial. The inert nature of galenIQ™ 721 ensures it doesn’t react
with other components, paving the way for reliable and effective vitamin C products.
Pioneering continuous manufacturing
When it comes to the production of tablets, continuous manufacturing is one of the most popular trends now and could become the future standard for production of oral solid dosage forms. It allows manufacturers to save costs and implement less complex production processes. To make the most of continuous production, manufacturers require suitable materials.
to manufacturers aiming for excellence and innovation in the vitamin C supplement market.
Focused on the future
galenIQ™ 721 is not just an ingredient but a pivotal formulation technology
In recent studies, Beneo has spotlighted galenIQ™ 721’s potential in continuous manufacturing. Its benefits include cost savings and reliable material feeding, providing manufacturers with an optimal solution that fosters efficiency and stability in production processes.
galenIQ™ 721’s stability against segregation, excellent compactability, and consistent blending capabilities further enhance its appeal
Available throughout Southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, galenIQ™ 721 is not just an ingredient but a pivotal formulation technology in overcoming critical manufacturing challenges. As the market for vitamin C supplements continues to grow, galenIQ™ 721 stands ready to support manufacturers. This excipient offers technical and quality enhancements that meet modern consumer and regulatory demands. It paves the way for the creation of user-friendly, stable, and enjoyable vitamin C supplements, aligning with the needs of the ever-expanding health and wellness market.
– www.beneo.com/ pharmaceutical-excipients
CUTTING EDGE TECHNOLOGY
From basic ingredients to specialty actives for key application areas:
A cure for measurement headaches in manufacturing
With designs that prioritise hygiene, robust materials and advanced digital integration, VEGA’s instruments empower CMOs to streamline processes, reduce downtime, and adhere to quality standards.
Acontract manufacturing organisation (CMO) supports pharmaceutical and biotechnology companies in manufacturing medications, formulations and substances. CMOs enable pharmaceutical companies to improve operational efficiency and profitability, by utilising advanced equipment and employing highly trained staff, which is critical in pharma manufacturing. Additionally, CMOs help ensure compliance with quality standards and regulatory requirements, minimising challenges during drug development and manufacturing processes.
VEGA’s measurement solutions offer accuracy and reliability for monitoring levels and pressures during the manufacturing process. Sensors and pressure transmitters offer traceability and validation documentation, simplifying the qualification and validation procedures required for regulatory compliance.
Level measurement for operational efficiency
CMOs deal with high-value raw materials, intermediates and APIs, where accurate level monitoring is critical for cost management and product quality. VEGA’s VEGAPULS 6X, a radar-
based level sensor operating at 80 GHz, is widely used in pharma applications due to its precision and versatility.
The sensor’s high-frequency radar beam enables precise, non-contact level measurement in storage and process vessels, regardless of the medium’s properties. In pharma settings, where hygiene and sterility are required, the non-contact design of the VEGAPULS 6X eliminates contamination risks. The sensor’s materials, including hygienic-grade PTFE and stainless steel, comply with FDA and EHEDG standards, making it suitable for pharma processes requiring clean-in-place and sterilisein-place protocols.
Measurement is not limited to liquids - contract manufacturers require level measurement of powders and granules stored in silos or hoppers. The VEGAPULS 6X is designed for solid-level measurement applications, featuring advanced signal processing capabilities that allow for accurate measurement of powder levels. This device can effectively measure powders with varying bulk densities, even in dusty or pressurised environments.
Pressure measurement for precision and safety
Filtration, sterilisation, and reaction control during the manufacturing process rely on maintaining precise pressure conditions. The VEGABAR series of pressure transmitters offers exceptional accuracy, reliability and durability for monitoring pressures in tanks, pipelines and reactors. The VEGABAR 83 is an excellent choice for pharma applications. Its robust ceramic measuring cell withstands chemical exposure and abrasion, ensuring consistent performance even in aggressive environments. In processes such as API synthesis, where reactors operate
VEGA’s measurement solutions offer accuracy and reliability for monitoring levels and pressures during the manufacturing process
under high-pressure and high-temperature conditions, the VEGABAR 83 provides highly stable pressure measurements, critical for process control and safety. It is also a dependable solution for applications requiring differential pressure monitoring, such as in filter systems or closed reactors. It features a chemical-resistant ceramic sensor, ensuring long-term stability and accuracy, even when measuring minuscule pressure differences.
The integration of pressure measurement with level monitoring systems gives CMOs a comprehensive view of their processes. Combining VEGABAR pressure transmitters with VEGAPULS radar sensors enables level and pressure monitoring for reliable control of liquid volumes and vessel conditions. This dual monitoring capability is particularly valuable in sterile reactors and storage tanks to maintain aseptic conditions.
Point-level detection for safety and process control
This is an important safety and process control requirement in pharma manufacturing. High- and low-level alarms prevent overfilling and dry running of equipment, safeguarding processes and minimising product loss.
The VEGASWING 63 is designed for liquid-level detection in hygienic environments. It is ideal for
overfill protection and dry-run prevention in pharma tanks and reactors, where density, viscosity or conductivity may vary. The VEGASWING series operates on vibration technology, where a tuning fork vibrates at a specific frequency when not in contact with the medium. If vibration ceases, an alarm or control action will be triggered.
This simplicity and reliability make these switches ideal for safety-critical applications where even minor process deviations can jeopardise product quality and compliance.
THE VEGA CURE
Pharmaceutical contract manufacturers rely on accurate and dependable instrumentation to maintain product quality, enhance process efficiency, and ensure regulatory compliance.
VEGA offers a range of innovative level and pressure measurement solutions, like its VEGAPULS radar sensors, VEGABAR pressure transmitters, and VEGASWING level switches, which provide exceptional performance and versatility for pharmaceutical applications.
With designs that prioritise hygiene, robust materials, and advanced digital integration, VEGA’s instruments empower contract manufacturers to streamline processes, reduce downtime, and adhere to the strict standards of pharmaceutical production.
Whether it’s monitoring liquid levels in sterile tanks, measuring pressures within reactors, or ensuring safety through point-level detection, VEGA continues to be a reliable partner in the pharmaceutical sector.
We don’t wait for the future. We make it.
Production processes, above all, must be safe, reliable and efficient. With our level and pressure measurement technology, you get exactly that. Durable sensors and accurate measured values make your work smarter, easier and more sustainable. Everything is possible. With VEGA
Innovation and excellence in excipient manufacturing
Nitika’s success is founded on an unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction
In the dynamic landscape of pharmaceuticals,
Nitika Pharmaceutical stands out as a leader in excipient manufacturing, contributing significantly to the industry’s global footprint.
As a premier Indian pharmaceutical company, Nitika exports its high-quality products to over 90 countries, leveraging a robust network and distribution channels.
The company recently inaugurated India’s largest manufacturing plant, specialising in customised excipients and pre-mixes. With a yearly installed capacity of 17 000MT and automated cuttingedge technology, the production facility marks a significant leap in production capabilities.
In Southern Africa, Nitika is represented by CJP Chemicals, making its excipients readily available to customers throughout the region.
Customer-centric approach
Nitika’s success is founded on an unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction. The company focuses on delivering top-notch products at a reasonable cost, supported by timely deliveries and dedicated after-sales support. Nitika’s dedicated experts, coupled with a proven track record and sophisticated instruments,
underscore the company’s commitment to excellence.
Spray dried microcrystalline cellulose
A flagship product of Nitika, TABCELL Microcrystalline Cellulose (spray dried) USP/ BP/EP is available in various grades (101, 102, 112, and 200). Its key features include excellent flowability, free from black particles, consistent quality (maintained by Nitika MCC 101), superior whiteness index, and outstanding compressibility. These attributes ensure a seamless tablet manufacturing process and a visually appealing final product.
Magnesium stearate
Nitika’s TABLUBE Magnesium Stearate USP/ BP/EP, holding the first position in Asia and the second globally to file USDMF for this product, is a vegetable-source excipient with USDMF and RSPO certification. Noteworthy features include specific particle size distribution and surface area, high whiteness index (>90%), high batchto-batch consistency, and reproducible bulk density. TABLUBE empowers formulators
to achieve precision and consistency in their formulations.
Sodium stearyl fumarate
As a specialised tablet lubricant, Novalube USP/BP/EP addresses formulation and manufacturing challenges encountered with other lubricants. Its advantages include minimal impact on dissolution and
disintegration rates, robustness to overlubrication, high API compatibility, and ease of manufacturing. These benefits make Novalube an ideal choice for tablet formulation, aligning with Nitika’s commitment to innovation and customer satisfaction.
Compared to conventional metallic stearates, Novalube has a better mouth feel which makes it suitable for tablets that dissolve in the mouth and effervescent tablets.
Diverse range and regulatory compliance
Nitika Pharmaceutical also offers a range of antacids, actives, and mineral salts, ensuring compliance with pharmacopeial standards. The company provides comprehensive support for regulatory requirements, reflecting its vision of ensuring a ‘happy customer’ through the delivery of top-quality pharmaceutical products. The company’s journey is marked by innovation, dedication, and a relentless pursuit of excellence.
NITIKA provides a wide range of high quality pharmaceutical excipients across the spectrum of the pharmaceutical industry worldwide.
NITIKA is one of the largest exporter of excipients to a diverse number of markets in South Asia, Middle East, US.
We have the fully formulated and quality products to assist all pharmaceutical industry in the development of high quality products.
Solar & milky notes trend in fine fragrance
Sunny vibes and milky notes are two marketing trends that are expected to dominate the category in the coming years. José María Mustieles, fragrance evaluator at Iberchem, talks to P&C Review Africa about how these two trends are set
shape fragrance notes.
Sunscape: the bloom of solar notes
Solar scents are all about warmth and boosting the mood, with fragrance profile designed to echo the feeling of a sundrenched day. These fragrances combine luminous, uplifting notes with creamy and warm facets to recreate the sensation of sun-kissed skin and golden beaches.
“Solar fragrances often feature accords inspired by white florals like ylang-ylang, tiare flowers, orange blossom and jasmine, which radiate an almost sun-drenched intensity,” explains José María. “These accords are paired with soft, creamy coconut, vanilla, or addictive resins to evoke the scent of suntan lotion or warm sand. Notes of bergamot, neroli, fruits and citrus add a vibrant zest reminiscent of a Mediterranean breeze, while hints of amber and musk mimic the lingering warmth of the sun on skin.”
José María says you are transported to the shimmering coastlines of Italy or Greece, the golden sunsets of the French
Riviera, or the lazy, sunlit afternoons of Spain when wearing a solar fragrance.
“These perfumes embody the glow of endless summers, the sparkle of turquoise waters, and the luxurious ease of life in the Mediterranean, all year round,” he adds.
When it comes to solar notes, for more than 20 years Mugler's Alien was the iconic reference for this olfactory accord. However, the concept has been updated and revived by the olfactory concept and trend of sun escapism, in which we can identify perfumes such as Sunkissed Goddess by Kilian.
The Sunscape collection, launched by fragrance house Iberchem at HPCI India and subsequently at PCHI China, is touring the world. You can have an opportunity to smell the collection at its next stops at BeautyIstanbul in Turkey, ICI in Jakarta and at incosmetics Latin America in São Paulo, Brazil.
Milky notes: a sweet and comfy pleasure
With their sense of indulgence, milky, lactonic textures continue to bring a note of creamy comfort to the scent scene. Sophisticated, soft, familiar, cozy and even nostalgic, the texture mirrors the olfactive experience.
Iberchem’s José María Mustieles
With their sense of indulgence, milky, lactonic textures continue to bring a note of creamy comfort to the scent scene
"Milky notes are treated with sandalwood, creamy textures, rice and musk to create a 'second skin' sensation for everyday use. Additional sweetness comes from the combination of whipped cream, marshmallow, caramel and vanilla notes," says José María.
The unisex perfume that made this trend a success is Gardini di Toscana's Bianco Latte, launched in 2023. The fragrance was a viral hit on social media and exemplifies the rise of gourmand in niche perfumery, and the growing trend of smelling 'edible' among Gen Z and younger millennials. With salted caramel, vanilla, coumarin and white musk, it evokes a comforting, delicious pastry.
The trend of milky notes has redefined sweet and gourmand fragrances, introducing more subtle nuances with accords that evoke cereals and nuts. These fragrances have become almost addictive, making the scent profiles mainstream, while they were once exclusive to niche perfumery.
“These notes, typical of fine fragrances, have now been extended to personal care applications in search of a more premium and sensitive shower and body lotion experience,” José María concludes.
According to Euromonitor International, the global fragrance market is projected to grow at an impressive CAGR of 7.3% through 2028. In 2025, we can expect perfumes and personal care products to capture the sun's rays and sweet aromas.
Iberchem
Moellhausen’s presence in the Middle East is the springboard to be even closer to all our customers, including customers in Africa
New Dubai hub for fragrance innovation
DU•IT Creative Centre is Moellhausen’s new development hub in Dubai. Launched in October 2024, it links the Italian business to Dubai and its customers throughout the MEA region to Italy.
Moellhausen’s international presence is one of the pillars of its corporate philosophy, driving the continuous growth of the fragrance and flavours business in Italy and worldwide.
Moellhausen is among the world’s leading historic family run businesses in the flavours and fragrances sector, both for raw materials and specialties. The company has been in operation for almost 60 years and
represents the excellence of Made in Italy. Its exceptional success in Europe originates from Moellhausen’s ability to combine its Italian flair with the timeless traditions of fragrances found in every region in which it operates.
A technological and creative landmark
A significant milestone in Moellhausen’s growth is the launch of a new research centre in Dubai, the DU•IT Creative Centre. Established in the name of innovation, quality raw materials, sustainability and a search for perfection, the centre is set to become a technological and creative landmark for conceiving and developing exclusive fragrances, which will be designed and created specifically for the MEA region, including the South African market.
Already active in Dubai with a commercial office and large showroom, Moellhausen has increased its presence with the new hub of excellence extending over an area of more than 1 500m². Perfumers, analysts and laboratory and production operators work within this creative centre, which includes a warehouse for storing around 1 000 raw materials.
This project represents a significant investment, both financially and in terms of job creation within the region. Additionally, it introduces the most advanced technology for automated fragrance composition, alongside laboratory technology for chemical analysis and the development of applications.
Andrea Ghezzi, president of Moellhausen, says: “Establishing an R&D centre in Dubai gives us a significant competitive advantage in fragrance production, not only for luxury and niche markets but also for other segments and industrial sectors, particularly dynamic in Africa, with which we operate from such a key region of the world.”
A significant partnership Moellhausen coined the acronym DU•IT to define the significance of the partnership between Dubai and Italy. The Italian flavours and fragrance business has been cultivating this relationship for over 20 years.
DU•IT is a phonetic nod to the English expression 'do it', serving as encouragement to act without hesitation, to perform actions at full speed and in the best possible way. DU•IT, or 'do it' embodies Moellhausen’s commitment to operate near customers, fostering continuous relationships with
clients and company stakeholders. It signifies the company’s presence in Dubai, with its team of perfumers regularly alternating betweenthe city and its Milan headquarters. Moreover, it emphasises reducing primarily virtual interactions to cultivate more effective and constructive in-person connections.
“Moellhausen’s presence in the Middle East is the springboard to be even closer to all our customers, including customers in Africa. It is the result of a path of growth and internationalisation that the company has been pursuing for years. It sees us successfully committed to increasing a virtuous process of commercial exchanges and industrial relations with primary entities in the fragrance sector. Although our reference market is the world, we will never forget that we are Italian,” says Anthony Moellhausen, CEO of Moellhausen.
The unique characteristics of Africa are highly valued to Moellhausen, with its vast and diverse natural beauty. The continent’s intriguing olfactory landscapes serve as a rich source of inspiration for every perfumer.
Moellhausen’s fragrance compounder at the DU•IT Creative Centre
The DU•IT Creative Centre is equipped with a world class laboratory