SKIN CARE
Natural mushroom enzyme for mild exfoliation Healthy skin is characterised by efficient cell renewal. Exfoliation, be it chemical, mechanical or enzymatic, helps the cell renewal process but some types are harsher on the skin than others. Lipotec has developed an active botanical ingredient that is effective yet mild on skin. By Alicia Gimenez, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Laia González, Raquel Delgado
D
esquamation is necessary
Tight control
Mushroom enzyme
for effective skin renewal.
The endogenous enzymes responsible for
Some organisms have been found to
A variety of endogenous
natural desquamation in the epidermis
produce proteases that mimic skin’s
proteases breakdown cell-
are pH-dependent, so their activity varies
natural enzymes, making them interesting
cell junctions in the epidermis, allowing
based on location. The epidermis exhibits
candidates for topical exfoliants. Actizyme
dead cells to desquamate. Lipotec’s
a pH gradient from about pH 7.4 at the
advanced botanical ingredient is a fungi-
Actizyme advanced botanical ingredient,
basal layer to around pH 5.5 at the stratum
derived protease that mimics cathepsin D,
available in South Africa from Savannah
corneum (SC) surface1.
as it exhibits a pH activity profile very similar
Fine Chemicals, contains a fungi-derived
to that of the endogenous enzyme.
protease that mimics a key epidermal protein in exfoliation. When applied to skin, it helps improve the complexion with a brightening effect. Cell renewal is slowed down by the ageing process and exposure to wind, air pollution, heat and sunlight or the use of detergents, resulting in dull and dry skin. Exfoliation removes pigmented cells that accumulate on skin’s surface. It also increases skin’s clarity and gives it a healthy looking glow. One form of exfoliation is chemical
When formulated in an acidic buffer
Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent
and applied on skin, the enzyme begins exfoliation. As the skin’s natural buffering capacity raises its pH, it reaches deeper layers of the SC and becomes inactive. Consequently, exfoliation is maintained specifically at the SC surface. This effective and controlled exfoliation produces little irritation and skin barrier disruption compared to AHAs. The brightening efficacy of this natural exfoliant has been tested on photoptye IV skins with notable results.
peeling where acids are applied on the
Irritation and damage control
skin to reduce cohesion between the corneocytes. Suitable acids include alpha-
In the deepest layers of the SC, serine
The epidermis on the volar forearm of 10
hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or
proteases participate in the degradation
volunteers (aged between 20 and 50) was
lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
of intercellular junctions as their optimal
stained with the fluorescent dye, dansyl
like salicylic acid. The main disadvantage
activity is at neutral pH2. In contrast,
chloride. Actizyme advanced botanical
of chemical peeling is skin irritation.
cysteine and aspartic proteases are active
ingredient was applied twice a day.
Enzymatic exfoliation offers a gentler
in an acidic environment promoting
Removal of the stain was monitored daily
approach with minor risk of irritation. This
desquamation in the most superficial SC.
using a UV light until complete elimination
process is based on the application of
Cathepsin D is an aspartic protease
and changes in cell renewal were
proteases that break cell-cell interactions
that is active at acidic pH between 3.5
calculated in comparison to untreated
and promote desquamation.
and 5.0. It can break corneodesmosomes
skin (control).
in the low pH environment of the SC Figure 1: Measurement of induced skin reactivity
surface, causing desquamation. However, in deeper layers
cell turnover by 11.1 and 16.4 percent
(with a higher pH) it
respectively, with these values being
cannot degrade the
statistically significant (p<0.05).
junctions between
38
| MARCH 2018 | P C Review
Application of the active ingredient at one and five percent proved to increase
In order to confirm the absence of side
cells as efficiently.
effects, higher doses than required for
The pH-activity profile
exfoliation were used and compared to
and the location of
the application of an AHA. Volunteers
this enzyme limit its
(aged between 35 and 65) applied 15 or
activity specifically to
30 percent Actizyme advanced botanical
the superficial layers
ingredient, or eight percent lactic acid
of the SC.
to half the face. After four weeks, the