COLOUR COSMETICS
Tailored beauty – how to solve problems in creative ways A unique formulating additive, Silsoft EAU microgel from Momentive delivers sought after benefits in aqueous colour cosmetics formulations for the prestige, mass and professional salon market segments.
T
he cosmetics industry is driven by consumer demand and the quest for the next best ingredient to satisfy the universal pursuit of
beauty. Consumers are constantly on
Table 1: Aqua Blur
Phase Ingredients Glycerin
Glycerin
Silsoft Silicone Gel
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cetearyl Dimethicone/ Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silsoft EAU microgel
Polysilicone-34 and Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Water
1.00
Tospearl 3000A microspheres
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
0.30
C
Preservative
INCI will depend on the preservative used
D
Fragrance
INCI will depend on the fragrance used
A
brighten their skin and make it appear B
has developed around the products and services consumers use to look their best. Keeping up with current trends in how beauty is defined is like chasing a
Wt %
Aqua
the lookout for that hot new product to more vibrant and youthful, so the industry
INCI
Water
Up to 100 5.00 36.20
7.50 20.00
moving target. This makes it challenging for brand owners and manufacturers to continuously deliver in line with
are already reflected in the many
also offers low viscosity emulsification
consumers’ expectations.
options of beauty products on the
and delivers pigment dispersion and a
Formulators need to be on the lookout for ingredients that are not only easy to use but are also equipped to transform
market and their multitude of
ordinary products into high performance
Structuring agent
solutions. Interesting textures and
Momentive’s newest
sensorial benefits are a must when
technology, Silsoft
it comes to meeting consumers’
EAU microgel enables
evolving demands.
formulators to tick all the
Tailored beauty solutions, digitalisation
unique sensory experience with a
textures and sensorial effects.
boxes when it comes to
lightweight feel. Silsoft EAU microgel is a
DID YOU KNOW?
cross-linked particle with
According to Nielsen’s 2018 Future of Beauty Report, in 2017, the number of unique foundation colours sold worldwide rose to 679, up 19 shades from the 660 available in 2016.
the ability to swell and contract. It can function as a unique structuring agent and emulsifier. It is comprised of a water
and personalisation are three of the
modern beauty demands.
biggest drivers of the cosmetics industry,
This multifunctional ingredient
pushing brands to meet consumers’
can be used to create exciting
needs for individual products that
new products and allows for the easy
celebrate their diversity. These demands
incorporation of natural oils and
activated polyacrylate core swells
esters, sunscreen actives, humectants,
rapidly, increasing the size of the
natural actives, silicones,
microgel particles. This creates a
particulates and pigments.
space-filling effect in formulations to
The multifunctional concentrate of Silsoft EAU microgel offers
| JANUARY 2019 | P C Review
core bound by a proprietary silicone copolymer shell-like layer. When water is added, its pre-
form a cohesive gel network that helps stabilise oil droplets. The effect improves a product’s
added value on
spreadability making Silsoft EAU
both a technical and
microgel ideal for foundations, CC
commercial level. Unlike
creams and tinted moisturisers like the
traditional structuring
Aqua Blur product featured in Table 1.
agents, which are
The effect also imparts smooth, even
aesthetically unpleasant
coverage with a hydrating, refreshing
and have limited
after-feel.
benefits, the microgel
18
swellable polyacrylic
Momentive’s Tospearl microspheres
is highly compatible,
can be used in combination with
flexible and easy to use
Silsoft EAU microgel to enhance
when formulating. It
light scattering.