Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review February 2018

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

Celebrating

60 years

of sustainable innovation

February 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 2

www.pharmacos.co.za

INSIDE Find your lab services and analytical equipment partners The science-based approach to natural beauty Prevent microbial growth with modern preservative blends

BIG

on pharmaceutical logistics

CONTACT US: +27 (11) 570 6000 www.bpl.za.com

Panalpina Logistics

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

February 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 2

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

15

6 NEWS

ExcelVite launches carotene educational website Industry and dti mourn Dennis Chanee Pioneering 3D tissue models for in vitro testing

Modern protection for shampoos

8 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

9 ON THE WEB WITH P C

Euromonitor reveals emerging consumer trends

big thing

New show dates announced for Cosmoprof Bologna GPE Expo launches Africa Pharma Expo in SA

14 FORMULATOR’S CORNER

in IR protection

Erica de Kock shares her passion for innovation

15 PRESERVATIVES

28

The next

11 EVENTS

Effective modern solutions to protect shampoos A perfect preservative blend for sunscreens

20 PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS: LABORATORY EQUIPMENT & SERVICES

Wrapsa launches Talo Lab Services Labotec takes safety and quality to the next level Meeting the analytical needs of pharma and CAMs brands Metrohm celebrates 75 years

36

28 SUN CARE

Innovative IR protection solution from Merck DSM launches an online SPF prediction tool

32 NATURAL & ORGANIC

Innovative for industry

Kalahari Lifestyle gives thanks to Africa New lipid technology to enhance formulations ‘Naturally better solutions’ from Vantage Top tips to being competitive from Parceval Botanichem gets closer to nature with new agency Sustainable products drive formulation innovation Natural ingredients with multifunctional properties | Volum February 2018

RICAN SOUTH AF

43

e 44 | Number

2

cos.co.za www.pharma

46

yet faithful to nature

45 Innovation & Design

Posh packaging that snaps

Systems and components for pharma products

48 Inspection & Detection

Locally developed vision inspection solutions

Safety and simplicity

for pharmaceuticals

The

NEaW w y pen to o s pack ced vision Locally produ systems inspection

cons of The pros and 4.0 Industr y

49 Industry Talk

Adapt to Industry 4.0 with Omron

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM

Pressure breathes life into new developments

N

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Florian Genrich, Robert A Harper, Karen Maier, Susan Pungitore, Tiffany Quinn ADVERTISING

ever before in the history

Our bumper natural and organic

of the complementary

feature on page 32 is a true reflection

medicines (CAMs) and health

of how big the natural beauty and skin

products industry has it been

care movement is becoming in South

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za

more relevant and necessary to test

Africa. In this edition, we’ve focused

and validate products. The regulations

on brands and suppliers that take a

promulgated on 15 November 2013 require

science-based approach to natural

all pharmacological classifications of

beauty. You can read about how

CAMs and associated health products

Kalahari Lifestyle combines innovative

to be registered by November 2019, in

phyto-compounding with science for an

terms of Act 101. This has sparked an

authentic African botanical experience

upswing in the demand for laboratory

and how Vantage Specialty Ingredients

services and analytical equipment to

has taken a renewable ingredient from

meet the industry’s needs. Laboratory

the corn field to enhance natural and

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

equipment and services are a central

organic formulations. Parceval also shares

CIRCULATION

focus in this edition of Pharmaceutical

its secrets to being competitive, which

Cosmetic Review. Turn to page 20

include novel extraction methods and

now to find out more about Wrapsa’s new

storytelling around the history and origin

company, Talo Lab Services, and how

of ingredients.

M&L Laboratory Services is equipped to

Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

Design and innovation are a central

test raw materials and natural ingredients

focus in PACKAGING REVIEW. This month,

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za

used in the manufacture of CAMs and

Aarifah Nosarka shares great reads on the

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

health products.

launch of Easysnap packaging technology

Art Director: David Kyslinger

in South Africa and how Starrate, through

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

also facing immense pressure in terms of

its international supplier Schott, is

the safety concerns surrounding some of

simplifying the pharma manufacturing

the more common historical preservatives.

and packing process with its ready-to-use

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

This is fuelling manufacturers’ increasing

syringes, vials and cartridges.

The cosmetics preservatives segment is

need for alternative ingredients to protect cosmetics from microbial contamination.

Enjoy the read!

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR

In the preservatives feature on page 15,

Aileen Lamb

we bring you a series of effective, modern

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

solutions to preserve shampoos and

Bridget McCarney

sunscreen products.

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

Consultant, drbaileys.com

Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University

Vivian Frittelli P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom.

All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

Launched a new product in 2017/18?

ENTRIES NOW OPEN

Contact Natalie Da Silva: natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za | +27 (0)11 877 6281

NEWS

E-COMMERCE, THE FASTEST GROWING RETAIL CHANNEL GLOBAL MARKET RESEARCH company, Euromonitor International released new retailing industry data alongside the second annual What’s New in Retail: Emerging Global Concepts report. This report highlights the evolution and reinvention of international retail, ranking the top three new retail concepts across grocery, non-grocery, non-store and digital channels.

Internet retailing is the fastest growing global channel through 2022 at 73 percent and is set to become a larger channel than traditional grocery retail.

‘While store-based modern and traditional grocery retailing combined will remain larger, internet retailing is changing the traditional way of shopping for many products, but especially for groceries,’ says Michelle Grant, head of retailing at Euromonitor International.

‘It’s no surprise now that three of the top five largest retailers in the world are internet retailers,’ continues Grant. ‘JD.com entered the top five in 2017, making it the third e-commerce player in the top five joining Amazon and Alibaba.’

With mobile internet retailing expected to reach 50 percent of total e-commerce sales in 2019, retailers are looking at the next wave of technology to create new ways for consumers to shop.

The UK-based luxury cosmetics brand Charlotte

Learn more

about carotene on the web EXCELVITE, THE ONLY PIC/S GMPcertified producer of palm mixedcarotene (EVTene) has launched a new carotene educational website.

The online resource contains technical information, latest research and

for information and it is inevitable

news about carotenoids, particularly

that we have to adapt to the trend,

alpha-, beta-carotene and palm

especially among millennials. Unlike

carotenoid complex. It serves as an

other carotenoids such as lutein,

e-library on these compounds with

astaxanthin and lycopene, the

both comprehensive and scientific

benefits and news on alpha-carotene

information that is important and

and mixed-carotene are not well-

useful to researchers, manufacturers

documented and it’s difficult to find

and consumers.

the right source for credible and latest

The site www.carotene.org has a

invest and launch a new educational

on various handheld and desktop

website for mixed carotenoids as a

devices. Users can navigate to various

one-source information centre for

topics to read detailed articles about

carotenes, particularly alpha-, beta-

carotenoids and mixed-carotene,

carotene and palm mixed-carotene

their health benefits, commercial

complex,’ says Bryan See, business

applications and news.

development manager at ExcelVite,

‘We live in a digital age where almost everyone searches the internet

marketing rights for the drug for the USA, among other countries, and worked on obtaining the new approval in close cooperation with Wacker.

products. Charlotte Tilbury has a strong digital

Not only did Wacker successfully transfer the

presence and invests in new technologies such as

entire manufacturing process for the complex

augmented and virtual realities. At the end of 2016,

biopharmaceutical to its facility, it also covered

Charlotte Tilbury launched an interactive virtual

the validation of the analytical methods for

makeup tool in stores called Magic Mirror. Using

process control and release testing of the

the Magic Mirror to virtually try on products before

drug substance. Wacker Biotech also obtained

purchase has helped make stores a destination

approval for the commercial manufacture of

outlet for many consumers.

I0L0AKv0tCKPBn3T0X0OK01 or visit: www. euromonitor.com/retailing.

6

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Ingredients in South Africa.

Halle/Saale plant. Chiesi (Italy) has acquired the

which aims to sell beauty regimes rather than single

2017 report here: pages.euromonitor.com/

which is represent by Enna Industrial

New FDA approval for Wacker

channel. Beauty tutorials are central to the brand,

New in Retail: Emerging Global Concepts in

information. Hence, we decided to

responsive design that enables viewing

Tilbury ranked first place in the non-grocery

To learn more, download the What’s

ExcelVite’s new carotene educational website

the active ingredient for the US market a mere THE DRUG SUBSTANCE reteplase, the active

three months after the FDA inspection of the

ingredient in the drug Retavase, which the

Halle plant. The reliable process in a modern

pharmaceutical company Chiesi will market

facility now provides an efficient, secure supply

in the USA, will soon be produced by Wacker

of medication for patients. ’We are pleased with

Biotech. The product recently obtained approval

the FDA approval of Chiesi’s product Retavase

from the US Food and Drug Administration

for the US market. This allows us, as a contract

(FDA). The medication is used to treat acute

manufacturer, to contribute to the treatment of

myocardial infarction in adults. Wacker Biotech

serious illnesses such as a heart attack,’ says Dr

has successfully transferred and implemented

Susanne Leonhartsberger, MD of Wacker Biotech.

the entire manufacturing process for reteplase to

‘I am very proud of the entire Wacker team that

its GMP plant in Halle/Saale (Germany). It already

spent years establishing and implementing the

obtained approval from the European Medicines

required production process at our plant and has

Agency (EMA) in 2012. In agreement with the

now achieved FDA approval for manufacturing,

original manufacturer of the medication – Swiss

too. This confirms that our plants and processes

pharmaceutical company Roche – Wacker

are fully compliant with the most stringent of

Biotech successfully transferred the production

requirements. All of our customers can profit from

process of the drug substance reteplase to its

this extensive expertise and know-how.’

NEWS

INDUSTRY BIDS FAREWELL TO DENNIS CHANEE IT IS WITH great sadness that

Claudy Steyn, the dti’s chief

the South African cosmetics

director for chemicals, cosmetics,

industry says farewell to Dennis

plastics and pharmaceuticals, adds:

Chanee after his untimely death

‘Dennis had vast experience in the

at the beginning of January.

chemicals and cosmetics industry

Dennis was responsible

prior to joining the dti. He was highly

for the cosmetics sector at

instrumental in the cosmetics unit, he

the Department of Trade

networked very well and we all knew

and Industry (dti). His

him as someone who took his work very

role included developing

seriously. One of his great attributes was

and implementing the Industrial Policy Action

his stakeholder relationships. One of the best

Plan and cosmetics sector strategy. Using his

things about having Dennis around was that

strong networks, Dennis was instrumental in

he was always prepared to give the cosmetics

establishing the Cosmetics Sector Steering

team a hand – something that I’ve been grateful

Committee and driving stakeholder engagement.

for on numerous occasions – and I know many

Dennis worked in the industry before joining

colleagues will agree with me. Whatever the

the dti’s cosmetics sector desk where he was

challenge, merely having Dennis around made

employed for six years. His colleague Sinah

you feel better. We all got to know his quick smile

Mosehla, director of the dti’s Cosmetics Sector

and ever ready words of encouragement, and we

Desk, comments: ‘He was courageous, humble

will miss him.’

and a good man. Dennis was willing to go

Dennis was laid to rest on 9 January at Sivan

extra mile when given a task and remained

Koil in Lenasia, south of Johannesburg. The dti

driven to come to work even though he

will be hosting a memorial in his honour and will

was unwell.’

communicate these details in due course.

Molecule offers a

triple protective effect ONE OF THE most serious threats for human

reactive species by capturing RCS and showing it

health comes from exposure to different chemical

anti-oxidative capacity and detox potential.

substances. According to Lipotec, the number

In vitro, damage by RCS to cellular proteins was

of chemicals synthesised and used in modern

inhibited and skin cells were protected from the

society has grown in the past decades, reaching

genotoxic effect of pollutants.

extremely high levels. These substances are

A clinical test was also performed on female

foreign to the organism and collectively known

volunteers aged between 33 and 57 years.

as xenobiotics.

They applied a cream with 0.05 percent active

Modern lifestyles not only involve exposure

ingredient on half of their face and a placebo

to thousands of foreign substances but also the

cream on the other half, twice a day for 28 days.

production of reactive species within the body

The anti-oxidative capacity of the skin increased

itself. These substances, very stable and difficult to

significantly by 21.3 percent in 14 days and by

eliminate, can accumulate in the body over time

36.7 percent in 28 days.

causing allergies, inflammation and accelerating external signs of ageing.

Lipochroman molecule was designed to

Bio-inspired antioxidant, Lipochroman molecule can assist cells in the elimination of xenobiotics and free radicals stemming from

capture both the RNS and ROS types of free

the environment and within the body, protecting

radicals stemming from environmental elements

biomolecules and cellular functions from the

thus protecting cells from damage. Recently,

damage caused by oxidative stress. Lipotec

new assays performed on the ingredient have

is represented in South Africa by Savannah

demonstrated a triple protective effect from the

Fine Chemicals.

BASF AND CTIBIOTECH REVEAL PIONEERING 3D HUMAN TISSUE TECHNOLOGY FOR TESTING AT THE NYSCC Cosmetic Congress, BASF Care Creations and the Cell Therapy Research Institute CTIBiotech presented the initial results of their joint research on 3D tissue models for the development and testing of bio-actives for skin care applications.

After two years’ research, the experts have now demonstrated both the ex vivo production of physiological sebum in a long-term culture of a 3D human sebaceous gland model, and the regulation of this sebum production by means of active ingredients.

Using CTIBiotech’s 3D human sebaceous gland technology, scientists were able to improve BASF’s 3D skin model portfolio. The new 3D technology provides a powerful platform for skin care researchers wishing to study the function of sebaceous glands, in relation to a range of agerelated, microbial and inflammatory skin disorders. ’Working with BASF allowed us to validate a powerful technology for human skin care research within a limited timeframe,’ says Dr Nico Forraz, CEO at CTIBiotech. ‘This positions CTIBiotech as a world leader in innovative and even disruptive technologies for human cell-based bioassays, applied to dermo-cosmetics.’

Dr Sabine Pain, BASF’s project lead, adds: ‘Compared to current in vitro methods, the 3D models developed by CTIBiotech allow analysis more in touch with human physiology and sebaceous gland metabolism. That’s how their technology helps us accelerate the development of innovative and highly reliable ingredients for the skin care market. Our understanding of sebaceous gland metabolism provides the basis for developing and testing advanced cosmetic bio-actives for

Lipotec’s Lipochroman molecule is proven to provide shelter from anti-oxidants while promoting detox

skincare applications, and in particular skin care products for oily skin.’

Professor Colin McGuckin, chief scientific officer and president of CTIBiotech, comments: ‘The next evolution of the sebaceous gland model will be based on a 3D bio-printing technology that allows us to fully reproduce micro-glands into a full thickness skin model, in vitro.’

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

7

STREET A first for Vichy

Let it grow

The international skin care

Celltone has branched out into hair care with

brand has launched

its new Advanced Hair Treatment. The product

its first daily skin

combines a special blend of seven luxurious oils

care range that

and natural ingredients, including shea butter,

protects against

beeswax and argan, avocado, castor and jojoba

UV damage and

oils. Kalonji, a black seed oil natural emollient, is the

pollution. It consists

star ingredient. The product’s unique formulation

of three products

promises to help restore hair growth and promote

formulated with a

a healthy scalp. Celltone’s Advanced Hair

powerful combination

Treatment is available in 50mℓ (R199.90) and 100mℓ (R299.90) pack sizes.

of antioxidants Baicalin and vitamin E, and shea extract. The Anti-Shine Cream SPF50 promises a mattifying hydrating texture; the Anti-Dullness BB Cream is a Tinted, nongreasy sun protection product for healthy

Fight

looking skin; and the Invisible Mist SPF50 offers quick and effortless protection in a spritz-on format.

premature ageing Dr.dermal is back with two more niche skin care products designed to fulfil the needs of prematurely ageing South Africans.

This local brand promises cutting edge formulations that are competitively priced. UV Guard 50 is a broad spectrum antiageing SPF50, while Light Hydrate is moisturiser that is ideal for men and perfect on combination or problematic skins. Visit www. drdermal.co.za for stockist and product info.

Beauty with brains

The Oolala Collection Club is a local skin care brand by Daniella Shapiro. It is centred on affordable luxury, clean beauty without cruelty and respect for the planet. Some of its best-selling products include the OolalaMAN Conditioning Beard Oil Intense, the Oolala Collection SkinTIGHT Facial Tightening Intelligence Serum Gel and SkinFIRM AntiCellulite Slim & Firm Massage Oil. Visit www.oolalacollection.com to find out more about these products.

Kalahari

salt scrubs

Matsimela’s range of Kalahari salt

scrubs have been repackaged for a fresh look and larger fill of 300mℓ (instead of 200mℓ). These scrubs are formulated with salt sourced from the Kalahari and a decadent blend of fragrance and essential oils. They are also enriched with jojoba oil. The variety of scrubs are excellent for all-over body exfoliation. Visit www.matsimela.co.za for more info about this local brand.

8

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

10

global trends ON THE

to watch

//

WEB WITH

http://www.pharmacos.co.za/trends-and-opinions/2141 Euromonitor International says several emerging forces will shape consumer behaviour this year. In a whitepaper entitled Top 10 Global Consumer Trends for 2018, the global research firm predicts the following to disrupt brands and business in 2018:

11.

22.

Clean Lifers – Clean living is a major reality and are minimalist lifestyles. With their strong beliefs and ideals, Clean Lifers will be

66.

shopper preferences and apps that allow consumers to try

spending. These consumers like to share through experiences

cosmetics before they buy with selfie-style formats, global

and refrain from the need to impress through ownership.

internet sales are set to sour this year.

The Borrowers – These community-minded sharers, renters and subscribers are reshaping the economy. This movement

77.

seek to investigate and understand the full history behind

3. Callout Culture – Consumers are having their say on social or signing e-petitions etc. The rise of the activist consumer

product development.

88.

is driving brands to change their marketing messages

It’s in the DNA-I’m so Special – Curiosity in personalised health and beauty and genetics are fuelling demand for home DNA kits. Whether they are concerned about their family history or seeking hard core genetic-specific tailored fitness programmes and diets, these consumers are driving new developments in

55.

the genetics market.

Adaptive Entrepreneurs – Everyone wants flexibility in their

I-Designers – Experiences matter more than possessions to these consumers. They are also integrating themselves in brands’ production processes with custom designs and

and creating a new visibility of social movements like the #MeToo campaign.

Shoppers’ scepticism of mass-produced products. transparent supply chain matters to these consumers as they

simplify their lives. Technology is a major enabler of this trend. media, airing grievances on Twitter, sharing viral messages

Sleuthy Shoppers – Political instability is driving Sleuthy Traceability, sustainable sourcing, greener production and a

Baby Boomers, which are reportedly looking to downsize and

44.

before they try or buy, both in-store and online. With increased

saying no to animal-based products, alcohol and uninformed

not only impacts millennials but also older generations like the

3

View in my Roomers – These consumers need to see products

personalised products rising in popularity.

99.

Co-Living – Sharing mutual facilities to save money and inspire collaborative ideas or provide comfortable, more acceptable living conditions is the focus here. Shared workspaces continue to pop up everywhere and developers are even looking to introduce modular apartments to meet these consumers’ needs.

10. The Survivors – Resulting from the credit crunch, a frugal 10

lifestyles and many consumers continue to reject traditional

mind-set remains entrenched. The gap between the rich and

working patters. Euromonitor says this is directly linked to a

poor is visible worldwide and more and more consumers are

change in consumers’ values that are shifting from solely

find themselves struggling to cope. To help those in need,

focusing on financial gain to desiring customised lifestyles and

foodbanks are being established and resale shops, grocery

memorable experiences.

discounters and value-based retailers are flourishing.

To find out more about these trends and how to respond to them, visit www.pharmacos.co.za/ trends-and-opinions/2141 and follow the link to download Euromonitor International’s white paper.

STAYING UP TO DATE Subscribe to P C Review’s e-newsletters to receive the latest information on industry developments, events, trade shows, seminars and launches, both local and international.

Log onto www.pharmacos.co.za or send an e-mail to lerato.mareletse@newmediapub.co.za to activate your e-newsletter subscription.

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WHAT'S ON IN

March

2018

16th annual SAAFFI Seminar 6 March Bytes Conference Centre, Midrand, JHB www.saaffi.co.za/events

Cosmopack 15 to 18 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com/cosmopack

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 16 to 19 March Bologna, Italy Fair District www.cosmoprof.com

PCHi 19 to 21 March Shanghai World Expo Centre, China www.pchi-china.com

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

22 May Venue TBC www.coschem.co.za

EVENTS

What’s on show

in Bologna?

T

he 2018 edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will once again facilitate networking and business opportunities for companies, retailers and professional operators in the cosmetics and

beauty industry.

From 15 to 19 March, visitors can experience the following highlights at the show: Cosmoprime; the Extraordinary Gallery; an exclusive showcase of prestige perfumery; products of the highest quality; some of the best research and development in the cosmetics sector; and the latest trends. A total of 50 companies from all over the world will bring to Bologna the most sought-

NEW EXCLUSIVE EXPO FOR PHARMA The Africa Pharma Expo 2018 will take place on 10 and 11 April at Gallagher Convention Centre in Midrand.

S

outh Africa’s pharmaceutical industry is a vital one that incorporates research and development, manufacturing and importing medicines and related products, as well as their distribution, wholesale and retail.

According to GPE Expo, the company organising Africa Pharma Expo 2018,

the industry was valued at R39.3 billion in 2015 and continues to show immense opportunity for growth.

To drive this growth and bring together key

after raw materials, luxurious packaging and innovative

players in the industry, GPE Expo is collaborating

formulations for specific skin needs.

with the Generic & Biosimilar Medicines

The focus on natural and organic cosmetics at Cosmoprof is growing with two new projects dedicated to the world of green cosmetics. The Green Selection

Association of South Africa (GBM) on the launch of this trade show.

GPE Expo has successfully organised and

within Extraordinary Gallery will host indie beauty brands

managed international exhibitions and trade

following the growing demand for natural and eco-

shows in India, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Nepal,

sustainable products. The Green Prime area will be set up

Pakistan, Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, the USA,

with masstige and prestige brands with a strong eco-

Dubai, Brazil and Vietnam for various industries,

friendly vocation, particularly linked to the characteristics

including pharmaceutical, chemical, medical

of retail distribution.

and healthcare, packaging, beverage and food

Tones of Beauty will return to the show focusing on multicultural beauty, with products conceived for specifically for

processing, agricultural industries, ceramics and information technology.

the hair and skin care needs of multicultural consumers. for women and men will occupy pavilions 22 and 26

TARGETING ALL FACETS OF INDUSTRY

dedicated to the perfumery and cosmetics markets. Over

Africa Pharma Expo 2018 will focus on specific industry segments

250 companies from the main international markets are

such as pharmaceuticals, biotech, active pharmaceutical ingredients, nutraceuticals

exhibiting, showcasing their latest collections, suitable for

and cosmetics with visitors expected from South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho,

distribution in Italy and in Europe.

Malawi, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique.

Fragrances, makeup, accessories, skin care and toiletries

The theme for this year’s Cosmopack Factory is ‘Powderful’ while the Cosmoprof Awards will celebrate the exhibitors and finished product brands with the most creative and best performing marketing strategy.

The Cosmotalks educational sessions will be centred on various pressing issues in the perfumery sector, with key media, management and decision makers from leading international companies, perfume stores and retailers participate in panel discussions.

Visit www.cosmoprof.com for more information about this leading trade show for the perfumery and cosmetics industries.

GPE Expo is collaborating with the Generic & Biosimilar Medicines Association of South Africa on the launch of this trade show ‘An overwhelming response from industry is being received to display their machines and products at Africa Pharma Expo 2018,’ says a representative from GPE Expo. ‘The exhibiting companies will showcase a variety of solutions from processing machinery, materials and services, packaging machinery, packaging materials and consumables, bulk drugs, additives, excipients and finished products to analytical and biotech equipment, lab reagents, glassware and lab consumables, clean room and environment control equipment, and the services of contractors and project consultants.’

For more information on the trade show, to register as a visitor or book your stand as an exhibitor, visit www.africapharmaexpo.com.

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

11

COMPANY FOCUS

Celebrating 60 years of sustainable innovation

ChemSystems – the bold, innovative, engaged, green and responsible company – is celebrating 60 years of manufacturing innovation. It was established in 1958 and now operates within the AECI group of companies.

sustainable. The company understands that what consumers put on their bodies or in their homes matters, so it strives to deliver consistently good quality ingredients that make a difference.

‘We are proud to be associated with

Bulk storage tanks at ChemPark

the best technology partners within each category of our business,’ says Thureya Sarlie, sales director at ChemSystems.

‘The business unit is now stronger than ever after being rebranded in 2015.

The transition period from 13 previously standalone AECI companies into nine agglomerated businesses has been extremely positive. We have made enormous strides in developing the consumer specialities business

DID YOU KNOW?

H

ugo Basson, MD of ChemSystems,

teams that drive internal

which is part of AECI’s speciality

efficiencies and watch costs

chemicals pillar, says the

to ensure ChemSystems’

company’s long history is built

continued success.

on a reputation around passion and

ChemSystems touches over 1 200 customers nationally and globally. The company also provides employment to 207 people.

‘Over the years, we’ve focused

unit, adding to our technology partners and expanding our capabilities to ensure we offer a one-stop shop solution. This is both from our international technology partners and in terms of our local production offering.’

The business unit has extensive

commitment to creating lasting, relevant

on our strengths and added good

formulation expertise to assist customers

partnerships with its employees, customers

people to the business; the value of this

with new product development and in

and suppliers. ChemSystems has evolved

talent is paying off,’ Basson explains. ‘The

re-formulating existing products. The

from a highly industrial focus to one that

company prevailed during numerous

company is also adding to the unit’s

meets the exacting needs of several

business and economic cycles and

portfolio of services and technical

specialised industries. These include

overcame adversity, which provides our

infrastructure to add value to its

consumer specialities, industrial and mining,

customers with a strong sense of security

customers and within the supply chain.

paper and leather, construction and

and commitment.’

‘With our manufacturing capabilities at Chloorkop, companies can partner

refractory, and foundry and timber.

Consumer specialities

with ChemSystems on a contract

aforementioned business units from its

Striving to supply excellent quality

manufacturing basis for their liquids filling

ChemPark facility, located in Chloorkop

products backed by relevant technical

in Kempton Park. This is where its primary

expertise, ChemSystems is known in

manufacturing facilities producing up

the industry to provide raw materials

to 14 400 tonnes per annum, product

that meet the changing demands

application and research laboratories,

of the cosmetics, home care and

as well as its sales, marketing and

pharmaceutical industries.

The company operates the five

administration teams and warehousing are

Since inception, partnerships have

situated. A second manufacturing plant

been the heart of its business model –

is located in Durban at the Umbogintwini

with its customers and in working closely

Industrial complex. This plant produces up

with its technology partners around

to 79 200 tonnes per annum. ChemSystems

the world. By combining core scientific

has warehousing facilities at Chloorkop as

expertise with a deep understanding of

well as in Cape Town and Durban which

market needs, ChemSystems delivers

boast diverse and flexible management

raw materials that are safe, effective and

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

The warehouse capacity at ChemPark spans 3 500m2 of non-flammable goods storage space and 700m2 for flammable goods

ChemSystems believes in embracing the spirit of transformation, rather than just complying with the letter of the law

COMPANY FOCUS • elastomers • commodities • preservatives • simethicones • essential oils

its ongoing success. These include: • ISO 9001 Quality Management System

• humectants

• ISO 14001 Environmental

• surfactants including mild surfactants • proteins • s kin care actives

solutions are applicable to household and

•w axes/cold processing waxes.

personal care products,’ she adds.

Sarlie says the demand for cold process materials and techniques is increasing

different needs and these needs change

as manufacturers search for ways to

– it’s how ChemSystems respond to these

reduce costs and implement greener

needs that differentiates the business from

production methods. This is because it

its competitors. ‘We bring the products and

has been estimated heating and cooling

solutions, the creativity and innovation of

alone accounts for over 90 percent of the

our international technology partners to

total energy cost for the production of

Africa. Our customers also benefit from

an emulsion. As a result, ChemSystems is

excellent global technical support at

adding more and more cold processed and

any point in formulation development,

eco-friendly ingredients to its basket.

from conceptualisation to final product production. We constantly strive to offer

Committed to transformation

better and more sustainable solutions in

‘Acting as a catalyst for positive and

every part of our business, from customer

enduring change, ChemSystems believes

service and product quality to ingredients,

in embracing the spirit of transformation,

logistics and technologies,’ she adds.

rather than just complying with the letter of the law. Over the past two years, the face

manufactured ingredients, including

of the business had already changed,’ says

antifoams, emulsions, emulsifying waxes

Basson, adding that 76 percent of all male

and preservatives. It also distributes an

employees and 56 percent of all female

extensive list of ingredients sourced from

employees are from the designated groups.

its international technology partners

As a wholly owned division of AECI,

for the personal care, home care and

ChemSystems is >60 percent black owned

pharmaceutical industries. These include:

with 18 percent black female ownership.

• actives/botanicals

The company is also committed to an

•a ntiperspirant actives

employment environment that provides

• conditioning agents

equal opportunities for all employees.

• emulsions

‘While we have set ourselves ambitious

• emulsifiers

targets for 2020, we have identified and

•o ral care products

commenced working with BEE groups and

• emollients

local SMEs, particularly where our mining

• rheology modifiers

and construction business are concerned,’

• excipients

he adds.

A bird’s eye view of ChemPark

and certifications, which are central to

• hair colourants and fixatives

• sunscreen actives

ChemSystems offers a variety of locally

ChemSystems has various accreditations

• silicones and silicone additives

and dry powder blending needs. These

The company recognises customers have

An accredited and compliant company

Management System • CAIA Responsible Care • OHSAS 18001 Health & Safety Management System.

Sustainable and successful To ensure its business operations are aligned to responsible and ethical practices, the company continually strives to improve its sustainable and environmental performance. This is done by implementing and upholding the standards set out ISO 14001 and by subscribing to the Chemical & Allied Industries’ Association (CAIA’s) Responsible Care initiative.

One of ChemSystems’ most recent sustainability developments is a R4.9 million upgrade to its storm water system. This is coupled with its major drive to save water and reduce water usage. ‘Solar power is next on our renewable energy agenda,’ says Basson. ‘We are planning to install 7 344m2 of solar panels in 2018 at Chloorkop to ensure the site becomes more self-sufficient and less dependent on municipal supply.’

In addition to these environmental and sustainability plans, ChemSystems has a strategy in place which will see it playing a major and fundamental role in shortening the supply chain. This includes a plan to manufacture certain ingredients locally under licensing agreements with international technology partners. Not only will this guarantee supply, it will also have a positive impact on South Africa’s personal care and home care industries.

‘We understand the challenges in the market; that shortages, stoppages and delays can occur. So we’re developing our capabilities to help our customers while ensuring ChemSystems maintains a unique and competitive position in the industries it serves. Of course, none of this is possible without a collaborative culture, which is encouraged internally, to find win-win-win solutions for ChemSystems, our partners and customers,’ concludes Sarlie. •

ChemSystems – www.chemsystems.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

13

FORMULATOR’S CORNER

‘ The first formulator in the world to develop cosmetics using Naatium Oleam’ A new edition to Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review – the formulator’s corner is dedicated to the masterminds behind our country’s innovative brands. While the first formulator to be featured is fairly new to the industry, Unichem’s Erica de Kock is making waves by turning her passion into beautifully finished products.

WHAT DRIVES YOU TO DEVELOP INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS?

myself that one day I will create

Although I am currently employed in a sales

label. I have also helped a lot of

capacity at Unichem, I had the honour

entrepreneurs, brand owners and

of being the first formulator in the world to

large manufacturers by creating

develop cosmetics using Naatium Oleam,

formulations for them. Thanks to

a renewable hydrocarbon with solubilising

the Coschem Diploma, I’ve been

and moisturising properties. I’ve created an

acknowledged in an American

extensive range of face and body products

newspaper for my contribution to

using Unichem’s Naatium Oleam and have

developing a sunscreen. I did this

been involved in all aspects of the Naatium

to assist a South African student,

Oleam journey, including its INCI listing

who was chosen to represent

registration and attending in-cosmetics

our country internationally on a

Global 2017 in London to promote the

sunscreen presentation.

products and develop my own

molecule in finished products.

Erica lets fellow formulator, Conny Oberrauter try out one of her products formulated with Naatium Oleam

WHAT IS YOUR BACKGROUND AS A FORMULATOR?

WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE YOU INTERESTED IN AT THE MOMENT AND WHY?

I have 30 years’ experience in finance.

Unichem represents Lucas Meyer in South

At the age of 50, the company I worked

Africa and the company has some beautiful

for decided to enrol me in the Coschem

products. I love Siligel. This fool-proof

WHAT FINISHED PRODUCTS CAN WE EXPECT FROM YOU IN THE FUTURE?

Diploma of Cosmetic Science. I

gelling agent has an amazing silicone-

I’m working on a complete anti-ageing and

commenced with my studies in 2007 and

like skin feel. The natural cellular energiser

anti-wrinkle skin care range. This is building

passed all my exams thanks to dedication,

Riboxyl is also stunning, while Synovea EL

on the positive feedback I received from the

perseverance and help from my fellow

(a Sytheon product) is an essential fatty

Unichem gift hampers I developed using

students. Some of them where pharmacists

acid that is great for skin nourishment.

Naatium Oleam as the key ingredient. I’ve

and others had years of chemical industry

With the growing focus on renewable,

also developed a number of formulations,

experience; together we motivated

natural and biodegradable ingredients

which Cunnigpac will start manufacturing

one another not to give up. I promised

for cosmetics, Naatium Oleam is ideal for

later this year. •

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

creating affordable formulations that tick all of those boxes.

PRESERVATIVES

Modern protection for shampoos The pressure is growing for cosmetics manufacturers to protect their formulations against microbial contamination with unconventional chemistries. Florian Genrich and Susan Pungitore from Symrise highlight a series of effective modern solutions to preserve shampoo formulations.

P

and mango. It has anti-oxidant and antiinflammatory properties8.

Organic acids are classic preservatives used in formulations with lower pH values. o-Cymen-5-ol is a thymol analogue while climbazole is an anti-dandruff active.

Standard preservative challenge tests were performed according to a combined method incorporating both

reservatives are an integral part

– and shampoos are often formulated

the US Pharmacopoeia and European

of cosmetics formulations and

using the corresponding water-soluble

Pharmacopoeia, with measurements of

consumer safety because they

salts sodium benzoate, potassium

microbial colony forming units (CFU/g) at

protect products from microbial

sorbate, or even sodium dehydroacetate.

days 0, two, seven, 14 and 289,10.

contamination, especially during

While thymol is well known in perfumery

repeated use. Safety concerns of some

for its fragrance properties, its isomer

Five studies and their results

common preservatives, along with their

o-cymen-5-ol (p-thymol) is odourless

Study 1: Shampoo formulations are

regulatory limitations, have fuelled the

and incorporated into formulations for

typically produced using a cold process.

increased demand for alternate product

its antimicrobial activity. Climbazole,

Therefore, some manufacturers have

protection ingredients, which are free of

one of the most common anti-dandruff

difficulty working with solid ingredients

negative press.

actives, has been shown to have anti-

that may require heating to solubilise

fungal efficacy . The

raw materials. In such cases, easy-to-use

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative with

4

a long safety history which complies with

alternative preservative

cosmetics regulations in most countries.

o-cymen-5-ol, as well

It has good antimicrobial properties,

as liquid preservative

although its weakness against yeast and

blends featuring

mould is well documented1,2. It is common

the anti-dandruff

knowledge that phenoxyethanol used

active climbazole,

alone, even at its maximum dose, does

display promising

not protect products sufficiently. The

efficacy in shampoo

current dose of phenoxyethanol allowed

formulations5.

Figure 1: Challenge test data of 1.0 percent blend of phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone and caprylyl glycol (7/2/1, w/w/w) in a shampoo

in cosmetics is up to one percent. Recent with other multi-functional cosmetics

Materials and methods

ingredients such as 1,2-alkanediols and

1,2-alkanediols – such

hydroxyacetophenone have shown

as 1,2-hexanediol,

that the overall preservative efficacy of

caprylyl glycol and

phenoxyethanol can be enhanced while

decylene glycol –

reducing its concentration in products

are incorporated in

such as shampoos. Synergistic mixtures of

formulations to function

phenoxyethanol/hydroxyacetophenone/

as humectants,

caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol/

solubilisers and

decylene glycol/1,2-hexanediol have

deodorants6,7.

been proven successful in preserving

Hydroxyacetophenone

shampoos as it will be shown in this article

is a nature-identical

for exemplary formulations.

ingredient found

studies on combinations of phenoxyethanol

Additionally, one of today’s go-to preservation solutions is organic acids

Figure 2: Challenge test data of a blend of phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol (7/2/1, w/w/w) used at 1.0 percent in a shampoo

in fruit, including cloudberry, cranberry

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

15

PRESERVATIVES Figure 3: Challenge test data of 0.5 percent sodium benzoate and 0.3 percent hydroxyacetophenone in a shampoo

Sodium benzoate is frequently used in shampoos because traditional preservatives have become criticised of 1.0 percent in a

Figure 4: Challenge test data of 0.1 percent o-cymen-5-ol combined with 0.4 percent dehydroacetic acid in a shampoo at pH6

liquid blends can be advantageous. A

Study 4: Despite its long history of

shampoo. 1,2-Hexanediol

use, o-Cymen-5-ol has not been well

is used in the blend to

established in the industry because

increase the solubility

it was always competing against

of decylene glycol in

numerous other preservative options.

phenoxyethanol. The

Today, preservative options are

results of preservative

getting less and less, so the focus on

challenge tests on the

unconventional systems is becoming

shampoo confirmed the

increasingly important. o-Cymen-5-ol is

blend of phenoxyethanol,

most effective when used in combination

decylene glycol and

with other antimicrobial ingredients

1,2-hexanediol (7/2/1,

or multi-functionals. Compared to

w/w/w) is successful in

phenoxyethanol, it is typically used at 10

reducing all microbes

times lower dosage. Its minimum inhibitory

within 14 days (see

concentration (MIC) values against

Figure 2).

the typical microorganisms relevant for

Study 3: Sodium benzoate is frequently

product protection are significantly lower than those of phenoxyethanol.

liquid blend consisting of phenoxyethanol,

used in shampoos because traditional

hydroxyacetophenone and caprylyl glycol

preservatives have become criticised.

(7/2/1, w/w/w) was tested. Preservative

Organic acids or their salts are one of a

test on the shampoo confirmed that 0.1

efficacy test results on a shampoo

few classic solutions left for manufacturers

percent o-cymen-5-ol combined with 0.4

confirmed the blend of phenoxyethanol,

to use, because shampoos are typically

percent dehydroacetic acid is successful

hydroxyacetophenone and caprylyl glycol

acidic. Knowing that sodium benzoate

at reducing all microbes in seven days

is able to reduce all microorganisms in

alone does not protect the product

(see Figure 4).

seven days (see Figure 1).

sufficiently, the preservative efficacy of 0.5

Study 5: The anti-dandruff agent,

percent sodium benzoate at pH5 can be

Climbazole has a crystalline structure

ingredient that functions as a viscosity

enhanced with the combination with 0.3

so heating may be required when

and foam booster in shampoos and

percent hydroxyacetophenone.

formulating cold processed anti-dandruff

Study 2: Decylene glycol is a cosmetics

as a deodorant active. It is also able to

Preservative efficacy test results

The results of preservative challenge

shampoos. A two-in-one solution of the

support product protection due to its

confirmed the cost-efficient

active in a liquid preservative blend was

multi-functional properties. A blend of

combination of the benzoic acid salt

developed recently allowing formulators

phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol, 1,2

with hydroxyacetophenone reduces all

to save on the heating/solubilising

hexanediol (7/2/1, w/w/w) was investigated

microorganisms in only seven days (see

step. A 1:2 blend of climbazole with

for preservative efficacy at a concentration

Figure 3).

phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol and

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

PRESERVATIVES Figure 5: Challenge test data of a 1:2 blend of climbazole in phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol and 1,2 hexanediol (7/2/1, w/w/w) used at 1.5 percent in a shampoo

1,2 hexanediol (7/2/1, w/w/w) was investigated for its preservative efficacy at a concentration of 1.5 percent in a shampoo. This composition contributes to 0.5 percent of the antidandruff active and 1.0 percent of product protection blend.

DID YOU KNOW?

Organic acids work well with shampoo formulations because of their slightly acidic nature. However, organic acids alone are not sufficient for broad spectrum preservation. The efficacy of organic acids can be enhanced significantly by combining them with an anti-oxidant such as hydroxyacetophenone3.

Preservative challenge test results on the shampoo confirmed that the two-in-one anti-dandruff-

ingredients. Incorporating this strategy,

preservative solution is successful at

the concentration of preservatives can

reducing all microbes in two days (see

either be reduced and/or their efficacy

Figure 5).

enhanced. The combination of organic acids with hydroxyacetophenone

The classic preservative o-cymen-5ol is successful in preserving shampoos when used in combination with dehydroacetic acid

Thank you to Sabine Lange and Dr Manuel Pesaro for their valuable contributions to this article, which was originally published in Industria Cosmetica.

Symrise – www.symrise.com

has been proven effective in acidic conditions. Easy-to-use combinations of phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone and caprylyl glycol as well as phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol have proven successful in preserving shampoo formulations. Anti-oxidants like hydroxyacetophenone are excellent at enhancing the efficacy of phenoxyethanol along with boosting the effect of organic acids to provide broad spectrum preservative efficacy even in formulations that are difficult to protect. Additionally, the classic preservative o-cymen-5-ol is successful in preserving shampoos when used in combination with dehydroacetic

REFERENCES: 1. Boehm, E. E.; Synergism in vitro of certain microbial agents, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists 19, 531-549 (1968) 2. O wen, S. C.; 2-Phenoxyethanol Monograph in: Rowe RC., Sheskey PJ., Weller PJ. (Eds.), Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5th Edition, 517-518 (2006) 3. Pesaro, M.; Hölscher, B.; Schmaus, G.; Koehler, A.; Antimicrobial Compositions; WO 2014/135650; PCT/EP2014/054378.

4. J ohncock, W.; Dandruff control, SCC, Queensland, Australia (2001) 5. Romeu, X.; Genrich, F.; Pillai, R.; López, M.; Mixtures with Climbazole; PCT/EP2015/079537 6. Schmaus, G., Lange, L., Joppe, H., Pillai, R., Röding, J.; New alkane-1,2-diol based antimicrobial combinations with enhanced activity against Aspergillus niger, IFSCC Congress, Osaka, Japan (2006) 7. Schmaus, G., Lange, S., Pfeiffer, A., Joppe, H., Pillai, R.; 1,2-Decanediol – A new cosmetic active for multiple applications, IFSCC Congress, Barcelona, Spain (2008) 8. A lvarez, M. E., Rotelli, A. E., Pelzer, L. E., Saad, J. R., Giordano,

Proven combinations for modern protection

acid. A blend of climbazole with

O.; Phytochemical study and anti-inflammatory properties

phenoxyethanol, decylene glycol and

of Lampaya hieronymi Schum. ex Moldenke, Farmaco. 55(6-

Current protection methods

1,2 hexanediol (7/2/1, w/w/w) is a

for cosmetics include the use

modern easy-to-use two-in-one anti-

of traditional preservatives in

dandruff preservative option for cold

combination with multi-functional

processed hair care formulations. •

7):502-5 (2000) 9. E uropean Pharmacopeia (EP) 5.1.3 Efficacy of Antimicrobial Preservation 10. United States Pharmacopeia (USP) <51> Antimicrobial Effectiveness Testing

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

17

PRESERVATIVES

The ultimate protection for sun care products

High SPF sunscreens are difficult to preserve. The accompanying trend towards softer, non-traditional preservation methods can add to the complexity of formulating these systems. Schülke – represented locally

by Savannah Fine Chemicals – has developed a proven solution to overcome these challenges.

E

xperts at schülke

and esters. Traditional preservatives, like

euxyl PE 9010 (phenoxyethanol and

have found that

formaldehyde-donors and isothiazolinones,

ethylhexylglycerin), euxyl K 900 (benzyl

sensiva PA 40 is the

are extremely water-soluble and remain

alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin) and euxyl K

perfect solution for

in the water phase of emulsions, where

940 (phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and

microorganisms exist. Because of this,

ethylhexylglycerin) in a standard 28 day,

A blend of natural, nature-identical and

traditional preservatives remain effective

single inoculation germ-count reduction test.

gentle synthetic materials, sensiva PA 40

even in high oil-phase systems. However,

This test showed that sensiva PA 40 used at

has been proven effective in formulations

many newer, alternative preservation

1.5 percent was the only variant that reduced

where other similar preservative blends

methods (i.e. containing caprylyl glycol,

the germ load of all organisms effectively for

have failed.

phenethyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin) have

the full duration of the test (see Figure 2).

these difficult to preserve systems.

Schülke has researched why some

limited water solubility. So, the partition

formulations are harder to preserve than

coefficient between the oil and water phases

Effective at a lower level

others. This research first led the company

of preservatives or antimicrobial boosters

Sunscreens based on inorganic sun filters

to investigate the effects of natural

plays an important role in their efficacy

have grown increasingly popular. Yet, they

oils in emulsions. The findings from this

in emulsions. For this reason, these newer

also pose unique challenges when it comes

investigation have paved the way to further

systems may be less effective in the presence

to their preservation. Like other products with

studies in the preservation of other hard-to-

of high levels of polar oils.

high particulate levels (i.e. liquid foundation

preserve formulations, such as sunscreens.

Although different in many ways,

Schülke tested a SPF30 sunscreen

makeup), the presence of particulate

based completely on organic sun filters

increases the susceptibility of the product

products containing natural oils and high

to determine optimum preservation

to mould contamination. Mould prefers to

SPF sunscreens pose similar problems

(see Figure 1). Sensiva PA 40 (a blend

grow on surfaces and the titanium dioxide

with regard to preservation – both

of natural, nature-identical and gentle

in these products offers an ample surface

often contain high levels of polar oils

synthetic materials) was tested against

area to support its growth. In contrast, zinc

Figure 1: Sun Lotion dry feel SPF30 (estimated)

Phase

INCI

Trade name

Water A

B

C

18

Figure 2: schülke KoKo test results

% w/w ad 100

Tetrasodium EDTA

Dissolvine E-39 (Akzo Nobel)

0.20

Glycerin

Glycerol 85%

2.30

Sodium Polyacrylate

Cosmedia SP (BASF)

0.60

Octocrylene

Eusolex OCR (Merck)

8.00

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone)

Eusolex 9020 (Merck)

2.50

Homomenthyl Salicylate (Homosalate)

Eusolex HMS (Merck)

10.00

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate)

Eusolex OS (Merck)

5.00

Dibutyl Adipate

Cetiol B (BASF)

5.00

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Eumulgin SG (BASF)

0.75

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Lubricit 2-EHC16 (Zschimmer & Schwartz)

Cetearyl Alcohol Silica

Sun Lotion Dry Feel SPF30 1

SPF 15 Lotion, unpreserved

2

+ 0.70% sensiva PA 40

3

+ 1.00% sensiva PA 40

4

+ 1.50% sensiva PA 40

5

+ 1.50% euxyl K 940

6

+ 1.00% euxyl PE 9010

7

+ 1.00% euxyl PE 9010 +0.50% sensiva SC 50

4.00

8

+ 1.00% euxyl K 900

Emercol 3455 (Emery)

2.40

9

Syloid 72 FP (WR Grace)

1.00

+ 1.00% euxyl K 900 +0.50% sensiva SC 50

Polyurethane-34

Baycusan C 1000 (Covestro)

7.50

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabiliser

See results (schülke)

q.s.

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Legend:

Sterility Control

Evaluation 7 days

14 days

21 days

28 days

-

+++ B,M,Y

+++ B,M,Y

+++ B,M,Y

+++ B,M,Y

-

++ M,Y

-

-

-

-

+ M

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

++ M,Y

+ M

+ M

+ M

-

+++ B,M,Y

+++ M

++ M

++ M

-

++ M

++ M

++ M

++ M

-

++ B,M,Y

++ M

++ M

+ M

-

++ B,M,Y

++ M

+ M

+ M

B = Bacteria M = Moulds Sp = Spore-forming bacteria Y = Yeasts

- free of growth + slight growth ++ moderate growth +++ heavy growth

PRESERVATIVES Figure 4: schülke KoKo test results

Figure 3: High SPF Inorganic Sunscreen (W/O)

Phase

A

INCI

Trade name

Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl Xyloside (and) PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

EasynovTM (Seppic)

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

DUB MCT 55/45 (Seppic)

Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Zano Plus 10 (Umicore)

Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Stearic Acid

UV-Titan M160 (EMD Chemicals)

Water

Inoculation Cycles

Assessment

1

2

3

4

5

6

-

++ B,M,Y

++ B,M,Y

++ B,M,Y

++ B,M,Y

++ B,M,Y

+++ B,M,Y

failed

-

+ M,Y

++ M

++ M

++ M

++ M

++ M

failed

-

+ M,Y

+ B

+ B

+ M

+ M

+ M

B

25.00

A

+ 0.70% sensiva PA 40

21.00

B

+ 1.00% sensiva PA 40

C

+ 1.50% sensiva PA 40

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

A

D

+ 0.20 % active matter of Dissolvine GL 47 S

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

A

E

+ 1.00 % euxyl PE 9010

-

+ M,Y

++ M,Y

++ M,Y

++ M,Y

++ M,Y

++ M,Y

failed

F

+ 1.00 % euxyl PE 9010 + 0.20 % active matter of Dissolvine GL 47 S

-

-

-

-

-

+ M

+ M

B

3.00

Sepimax ZEN (Seppic)

1.50

Chelating Agent

Dissolvine GL 47 S (Akzo Nobel)

q.s. q.s.

See results (schülke)

Sterility Control

Unpreserved

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Preservative/ Antimicrobial Stabiliser

High SPF Inorganic Sunscreen (W/O) 0

3.00

Citric Acid C

3.00

ad 100

Glycerin B

% w/w

q.s.

Legend:

Legend Assessment

B = Bacteria - free of growth M = Moulds + slight growth Sp = Spore-forming bacteria ++ moderate growth Y = Yeasts +++ heavy growth A = free of growth during the six inoculation cycles B = slight (+) growth during the six inoculation cycles

oxide is used in diaper rash treatments for

efficacy test (see Figure 4). While both

containing phenoxyethanol. It can be

its antimicrobial properties. The inclusion of

systems were able to effectively preserve the

used at 1.5 percent to effectively preserve

this material as a sun filter should boost the

sunscreen with the addition of a chelating

this system without the need for any

preservation of the formula.

agent, sensiva PA 40 was effective at lower

additional boosting. •

When testing a high SPF inorganic

concentration. Used without a booster at a

sunscreen (see Figure 3), schülke focused on

use level of 1.0 percent, euxyl PE 9010 could

two non-traditional preservation methods.

not adequately preserve the sunscreen.

Euxyl PE 9010 was tested versus sensiva PA 40 in a six inoculation, six week preservative

Sensiva PA 40 is not limited by the same regulatory restrictions as products

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za Schülke – www.schuelke.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

19

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Laboratory Equipment & Services

Introducing Talo Lab Services – a Wrapsa company If you’re looking for a local laboratory with world class analytical equipment and competitive pricing, Wrapsa Laboratory, trading as Talo Lab Services, is open for business. The company offers testing services for pharmaceutical products, complementary medicines, health products and food supplements.

T

he regulations, promulgated in the Government Gazette on 15 November 2013, require all pharmacological classifications of complementary medicines to be registered

in terms of Act 101 by November 2019.

‘One of the biggest problems encountered when preparing dossiers for submission to the Medicines Control Council for registration is the lack of validated methods required for the generation of stability data,’ says Jannie Nel, responsible pharmacist at Wrapsa.

‘Apart from the new requirements for complementary medicines, at least one batch per product of all registered medicines manufactured within a calendar year in a GMP compliant facility, must be placed on ongoing stability studies.’

Wrapsa Laboratory has identified a business opportunity to supply laboratory services to the pharmaceutical and health products industries.

‘While the laboratory has been registered as a separate company, it is imperative that we maintain

TALO SERVICES HAS the following analytical instruments: • infra-red spectrometry • high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) UV/PDA Detector • gas chromatography/FID detector • atomic absorption • ultra violet spectrometry • density meters • pH meters • Karl Fischer titrators • refractometers • viscometers • dissolution baths • disintegration meters • hardness testers • friability testing apparatus • ovens to test product loss on drying/sulphated ash • wet chemistry testing equipment.

the Wrapsa branding to avoid any unnecessary changes to dossiers,’ Nel explains.

Equipped for Africa’s needs Through a self-funded upgrade to its existing laboratory facility, Wrapsa has invested several million rand into developing Talo Lab Services as a key player in the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets. The facility and its team of analytical experts are equipped to perform testing on raw materials, intermediates and final products where a validated method or a pharmacopoeial

Talo Lab Services boasts an impressive space that is equipped to perform testing on raw materials, intermediates and final products for the pharma and complementary medicines markets

A FULLY EQUIPPED LABORATORY

monograph method is supplied.

‘The current status of the classification of the laboratory is compliant with the licensing requirements required by the Medicines Control Council (including PIC/S requirements) and the latest

ISO 9001:2015 code of practice,’ Nel explains. ‘We successfully completed our ISO audit in November and will be receiving our certificate soon, making Wrapsa the first contractor in South Africa to secure its 9001:2015 accreditation.’

With stability testing being a primary focus of the laboratory, Wrapsa’s management took a strategic decision to upgrade the stability chambers to enable stability storage and testing for local and international conditions. In doing so, the lab will be able to assist customers in determining the recommended storage conditions for their products while establishing shelf life information. The upgrade provides for 25˚C/60 percent relative humidity; 30˚C/65 percent relative humidity, to cover class three requirements based on Africa’s climatic conditions; and 40˚C/75 percent relative humidity.

While the lab is already fully equipped and open for business, Talo Lab Services predicts an influx of business and will be installing a selection of new analytical equipment in the coming months.

‘Budget has been approved for additional HPLCs, vessel dissolution baths and humidity chambers, which will be added to the laboratory by the end of April,’ says Nel. ‘Thereafter, we aim to secure SANAS accreditation for the laboratory, for calibration and certification. This is the highest laboratory certification in South Africa and it is recognised by ISO.’ •

Wrapsa – www.wrapsa.co.za

20

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Since 1983

WRAPSA LABORATORY TRADING AS TALO LAB SERVICES (PTY) LTD

The promise of quality, flexibility and confidence Types of samples tested: Pharmaceutical: Raw materials, in-process and finished products, ie tablets, capsules, oral suspensions, oral omulsions, aerosols, liquids, lotions, creams, sprays and drops.

Cosmetic: Raw material, in-process and finished products.

Tests that Wrapsa Laboratory performs: Physical: • Hardness • Friability • Density • Disintegration • Melting Point • Viscosity • Physical Dimensions • Moisture content/Loss on drying Classical: • Volumetric • Gravimetric Electrometric: • Potentiometric • Conductometric • Karl Fisher

Wrapsa Laboratory, trading as Talo Lab Services (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (0) 12 653 0347/8 | Fax: +27 (0) 12 653 0857 wrapsa@wrapsa.co.za

Spectrometric: • UV – visible • Infra-red • Atomic Absorption Dissolution: • UV-visible Spectrophotometer • Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometer • GC/FID Chromatography • HPLC Chromatography Chromatography: • UV High Performance Liquid • Refractive Index High Performance Liquid • PDA High Performance Liquid • Gas (FID)

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Laboratory Equipment & Services

Taking lab safety and quality control to

THE NEXT LEVEL

Labotec has added a series of new high quality analytical products to its offering to satisfy the needs of laboratories and manufacturers throughout southern Africa.

T One of the four different models in the Captair Smart range of high precision weighing enclosures

he company is committed to ensuring

How it works is residual powder of 0.3µ or higher is

its customers are equipped to make

first trapped by a pre-filter and then by a HEPA H14

more accurate diagnostic decisions,

filter, while a special shield reduces air speed at

advance research methods and improve

the work surface level to virtually eliminate surface

performance within their respective industries. It

fluctuations. For liquid chemicals, a high efficiency

has partnered with the world’s leading brands

carbon filter is used. Both these filters can be

to bring the best quality analytical equipment to

used together.

laboratories throughout southern Africa. Labotec

To further improve accuracy and eliminate

has also crafted its own house brands in line with

turbulences, particularly when using precision

local quality standards to offer an economic

balances, the operator can interrupt the ventilation

alternative to selected lines.

for a few seconds using an easily accessible

Its newest solutions for the pharmaceutical and food industries are the high precision weighing enclosures from Erlab and a water activity meter from Novasina.

Erlab’s Captair Smart range of

exclusive waste system. HEPA filtration guarantees the operator total protection against the particles handled within the enclosure.

Without having to resort to ducting, the Smart enclosure can be installed anywhere in a

high precision weighing enclosures

laboratory. By downloading the eGuard App on a

are designed to provide safety for

mobile phone, PC or tablet, from Google Play or

the operator, a stable base during precision weighing tasks and remote

Apple store, remote control and monitoring of the weighing enclosure are also possible.

control of parameters in real time with the new app. A high level of containment using protective airflow and filtration performance will provide a filtration efficiency of 99.995 percent for particles larger than 0.3µ. For precise results the Captair Smart

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

The new LabMaster-AW Neo from Novasina boasts cutting-edge technology that delivers fast and accurate measurements. Its features make it perfect for routine determination of water activity in quality control labs operating in the pharmaceutical and food industries. The meter can also be used to support further investigation into

weighing enclosures

determining the source of product spoilage, texture

are designed to

failures or rancidity for example.

allow weights to be

22

All-round water activity meter

The LabMaster NEO is outstanding for hassle-

measured with a

free water activity measurement and result

precision up to 10 -6g.

documentation. This includes a 21CFR11 compliant

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Laboratory Equipment & Services

ISO/IEC 17025 HAS BEEN REVISED

Novasina’s new LabMaster-AW Neo, which is available locally from Labotec

AT LABOTEC EXPOSED, the company’s

The updated standard was published on

two day conference and expo that took

1 December with the following changes:

place in October last year, Steve Sidney

• the scope has been revised to cover testing,

from the National Laboratory Association, explained the main changes in the ISO/ IEC 17025 revision and whether they would impact laboratories.

Over the years, the standard has

calibration and sampling associated with subsequent calibration and testing • the process approach now matches that of newer standards such as ISO 9001 (quality management), ISO 15189 (quality

audit trail, automatic verification or calibration,

become the international reference

of medical laboratories) and ISO/ IEC

contactless salt standard identification by RFID

for testing and calibration laboratories

17021-1 (requirements for audit and

and a quick mode that guarantees a completed

wanting to demonstrate their capacity

measurement within 10 minutes.

to deliver trusted results. According

certification bodies).

• it now has a stronger focus on information

to www. iso.org, the laboratory

technologies and incorporates the use

Neo include:

environment has changed dramatically

of computer systems, electronic records

• full temperature control in the range of zero

since it was last published, leading to

and the production of electronic results

Additional features of the LabMaster-AW

the decision to revise the standard and

to 60°C • a measurement range of 0.0300 to 1.0000aw

integrate significant changes. Sidney, a

• magnetic fixing that facilitates easier handling of

convenor of the ISO/ IEC 17025 revision

and reports.

• a new chapter introduces the concept of risk-based thinking.

working group, explains: ‘The last version

Laboratories already accredited to ISO/

This meter is compliant with all standards, such as

of ISO/IEC 17025 was published in 2005.

IEC 17025:2005 will need to transition their

AOAC, ISO, USP and others. •

Since then, market conditions have

processes to the new version within a three-

changed and we felt we could bring some

year period from the publication date of the

improvements to the standard.’

new standard. Source: www.iso.org/news

chemical protection filters.

Labotec – www.labotec.co.za

Labotec is your guarantee of

WORLD CLASS LAB EQUIPMENT with South African-based after-sales support and service

grow, nurture, evolve...

Visit our new website www.labotec.co.za

011 315 5434 | 021 531 7660 | 031 566 4870 | sales@labotec.co.za

Labotec.indd 1

2018/01/17 11:50 AM

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

23

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Laboratory Equipment & Services

LEADING LAB equipped for CAMs

ALPHA II The new benchmark for compact FTIR spectrometers

M

&L Laboratory Services, part of the Bureau Veritas group, is home to a world class laboratory with comprehensive testing solutions for the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and complementary

medicines (CAMs) markets, and the food industry. The laboratory, which is based in the south of Johannesburg, is licensed by the Medicines Control Council of South Africa, compliant with PIC/S requirements, certified by the World Health Organization and ISO 17025 approved.

In 2011, M&L Laboratory Services suffered a major fire which saw it investing R40 million in a completely new automated laboratory facility with world-class analytical equipment and a micro lab aligned to pharmaceutical industry requirements.

Since then it has developed into a leading supplier of laboratory services, which it is now extending to meet the needs of brand owners and manufacturers operating in the health products and CAMs segment. Joanne Barton, director of M&L Laboratory Services, comments:

Very robust and compact FTIR spectrometer with integrated design

‘Our technical equipment and extensive

Comfortable touch panel operation with intuitive software, suitable even for beginners

for complementary medicines. This

High reliability due to much system intelligence

for the laboratory to provide stability

Dedicated design for any application by exchangeable sampling modules Low costs of ownership due to high quality components with long life time, and low power consumption

stability chambers enhance our offering market is becoming a big area of focus testing services and raw materials testing and analysis.’

Joanne Barton

Investing in South Africa In October last year, the company expanded its geographical footprint with the launch of a technologically innovative, state-

The ALPHA II is the further development of the very successful ALPHA spectrometer. It combines the highest quality with little space requirement and maximum operating comfort. With the integrated touchpanel PC and the intuitive OPUS-TOUCH software, IR analysis is easier than ever before.

Thanks to technical innovations, the ALPHA II is now even more powerful and more robust than before. The ALPHA II is particularly suitable for quality control of industrial products.

of-the-art microbiological laboratory in Brakenfell, Cape Town.

The development marks the company’s investment in and commitment to the country’s growth. Although the Cape Town lab is designed to focus primarily on the food and agricultural sectors, Barton says there is an option to test raw materials and natural products used in the manufacture of CAMs, such as essential oils and herbal extracts.

This investment in the South African market also marks the creation of jobs for technically skilled workers, microbiologists and technical sales specialists.

Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics info.za@bruker.com

Bruker South Africa (Pty)Ltd. Homestead Office Park, Block B 65 Homestead Avenue Bryanston - 2021 Tel: +27 11 463-6040 Fax: +27 11 463-6289

Innovation with Integrity

F T- I R

M&L Laboratory Services is poised to deliver the highest levels of service to its customers backed by Barton’s proven track record of technical competence and leadership skills.

Under her guidance, the Johannesburg laboratory continues to achieve its targets with the Cape Town addition set to follow suit. •

M&L Laboratory Services – www.bureauveritas.com

24

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Contract manufacturers for the pharmaceutical and complementary medicines markets Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories is a registered company specializing in manufacturing and packing of complementary medicines for third party companies within the local South African market. Founded in 1980, Hersol adheres to a Quality Management System which embraces current Good Manufacturing Practices in accordance with Medicines Control Council requirements.

Hersolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extensive facility features a fully equipped Laboratory to ensure quality of raw materials and finished products.

It has modern manufacturing facilities for blending, granulating, compressing & coating tablets as well as encapsulating capabilities. Hersol has state of the art on-site packing facilities, including a recently introduced blister packing machine. In addition, Hersol has facilities to manufacture and pack syrups, creams, gels and ointments.

Leadership at Hersol is upheld by a highly competent Management Team with vast pharmaceutical subject matter knowledge and experience in staff motivation so as to achieve a superior product.

Hersol is registered with: t South African Medicines Control Council t South African Pharmaceutical Council t South African Department of Health t Health Product Association â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HPA t Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association t FDA Food Facility

Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories (Pty) Ltd tel: +27 11 614 6631/2

fax: +27 11 614 4615

email: admin@hersol.co.za

web: www.hersol.co.za

PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Laboratory Equipment & Services

of analytical excellence High precision chemical analysis is in Metrohm’s DNA. The company provides insight into the benefits of using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) in pharma quality control and what makes the Mira M-3 handheld Raman spectrometer both smaller and faster.

D

rug analysis needs to be

production. The peaks and troughs

cost-effective without

found in NIR spectra conceal a multitude

compromising on accuracy.

of chemical and physical information –

This is an important principle

and chemometric methods are the key

for routine quality control and the

for sifting through and decrypting this.

identification of potentially harmful

One example of this technology’s

counterfeit medicines. NIRS is a useful

benefits is the simultaneous

part of the pharma analysis toolbox

determination of the five active

thanks to the minimal time and labour

pharmaceutical ingredients used

resources it requires and the fully

in tablets designed to relieve flu

automated online analyses it offers.

symptoms: paracetamol; ascorbic

It also takes simultaneous

acid; dextromethorphan

analysis of multiple

hydrobromide; caffeine

substances in its stride.

and chlorphenamine

Quality by Design (QbD) and process analytical technology (PAT) are two concepts that have become watchwords among regulators

maleate. This method

Metrohm celebrates 75 years in the industry! Follow the company’s blog for more information: blog.metrohm.com

worldwide. These approaches aim to increase efficiency in the development and production of pharmaceuticals. In QbD’s case, trial-and-error processes are replaced with a design, that is adapted to suit the patient population and the manner in which the product will be administered.

The expectation is that this will streamline production to deliver desired results.

Without PAT, the QbD approach could not survive. Process analysis is used to monitor production in real time. It allows alterations to be made during the process and helps to improve product and process understanding.

Metrohm NIRS is a textbook example of PAT with numerous publications describing how it is implemented in pharmaceutical quality control processes – before, during and after

26

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

is validated according to the directives of the International Conference on Harmonisation, European Medicines Agency and the Pharmaceutical Analytical Sciences Group.

As a result, it can

approved alternative to the more complex reference method, which requires separate determinations using HPLC and titration.

Smaller, faster spectrometer The Mira M-3 is a new handheld Raman spectrometer from Metrohm. Barely larger than a smartphone, it enables true single-handed operation. It also meets the regulatory requirements of FDA 21 CFR Part 11, making it a preferred solution for fast, straightforward quality control in the pharmaceutical industry.

Operating procedures can be customised on the Mira M-3 to allow sampling flexibility.

Routine users start their measurements at the push of a button to verify the identity of materials with a pass/fail result in a few seconds.

Dedicated sampling attachments such as a vial holder (for powders and liquids) and a tablet holder (for tablets and pills) are part of the Mira M-3 and can be used without any further laser protection (Laser Safety Class 1). Point-and-shoot attachments are also available for contact measurements through barriers such as glass bottles.

The Mira M-3 is fully compliant with FDA 21 CFR Part 11 providing multilevel access control, audit trails, secure electronic records and other features to exceed regulatory requirements.

Both the Mira M-3 and NIRS are available locally from Metrohm South Africa. •

serve as an

Metrohm South Africa – www.metrohm.com/en-za

SUN CARE

The next

big thing in IR protection

Merck is meeting the cosmetics industry’s needs for light protection solutions that can be easily incorporated into formulations while offering additional benefits. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials: South Africa, unpacks the company’s innovative light protection concept and why brands need it.

F

or years we have been complacent,

dermis. Lux, or lx, is the

thinking that once we’ve applied

unit of measurement

sunscreen, we are fully protected

for illuminance or the

against UV radiation and blissfully

level of light intensity.

unaware there are other dangers lurking

On a clear day, in

within the solar radiation spectrum.

direct sunlight, the

Besides UVA and UVB radiation, visible

measurement can

light and high energy visible light (HEV) can

reach up to 100 000lx.

cause damage to the skin as does Infra-Red

But what’s the fuss?

(IR) radiation.

Visible light is that part of the

Studies have shown on

DID YOU KNOW?

increased dryness and sensitivity, inflammation

Studies have shown that while the and redness and of number of free radicals created on course the visible signs the skin by infrared radiation is about of ageing such as a quarter of the amount caused by UVB/ wrinkles and sagging, UVA radiation, the production of ROS due to IR light synergistically triggers hyperpigmentation or the inflammatory effects resulting in uneven pigmentation. sunburn occurring much faster The photons’ energy when exposed to UVB/ of the visible light can be UVA light.

a clear day, and not in direct

absorbed by the endogenous

electromagnetic spectrum within the

sunlight, one is exposed to between

chromophores in the skin, such as

range of 400 to 800nm. It is visible to the

10 000 to 20 000lx. The impact of this

melanin and riboflavin, or the light may

human eye and can penetrate into the

exposure results in a similar amount of

be scattered, influencing the depth to

free radicals produced on the skin as

which this light may penetrate skin.

Figure 1: Reduction of transmission of HEVL through Eusolex T-PRO (10 percent) plus RonaFlair Balance Blue (five percent) in an o/w formulation (measurements in shortcut cuvette)

28

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

exposure to UVB/ UVA light, which

While skin does have these natural protection mechanisms, it does need

would cause skin to

some assistance in this regard. Enter

become sunburnt.

titanium dioxide-based sunscreens,

Now imagine what

which have been proven to give

happens when

excellent protection against the negative

one is exposed

effects of visible light and HEV. Yet it

to direct sunlight

seems not all titanium dioxide in any kind

– at 100 000lx this

of formulation work provides effective

exposure has the

protection against HEV. In fact, the level

potential to allow

of protection is highly dependent on the

five times more

type of titanium dioxide, its usage level

reactive oxygen

and the type of formulation. In Merck’s

species (ROS) to

studies, the best results were achieved

appear on the skin.

with an o/w emulsion containing

The harmful effects

Eusolex T- PRO (INCI: Titanium Dioxide,

of the overexposure

Alumina, Manganese Dioxide). Eusolex

to visible light

T-AVO (INCI: Titanium Dioxide, Silica)

and HEV include

also Eusolex T–S (INCI: Titanium Dioxide,

SUN CARE Figure 2: Reduction of transmission of IR-A light through Eusolex T-PRO (10 percent) plus RonaFlair Balance Blue (five percent) in an o/w formulation (measurements in shortcut cuvette)

Figure 3: Reduction of IR-induced radical formation in skin explants by RonaCare AP – * p < 0.05, significant to untreated and placebo formulation.

Alumina, Stearic Acid) were also able to offer useful protection

produced. This combats inflammation and oxidative stress and helps

beyond UV radiation.

maintain a healthy skin. RonaCare AP has been proven to offer significant protection against a broad range of light induced radicals (see Figure 3).

Why do we need protection against IR?

While it is unnerving to know how and to what extent our

Physiotherapists rooms are a common place where IR lamps

skin is exposed to radiation, it is comforting to know there is

are used usually to assist in the treatment of inflammation.

protection available. •

At low doses, IR-A (800 to 1 450nm) is highly beneficial and therapeutic. Yet at high doses, (>120J/cm2) exposure to IR-A radiation has a pathological impact.

Merck Performance Materials – www.merck-performancematerials.com

Even though IR radiation has the lowest energy, its contribution to the solar spectrum that reaches human skin is about 45 percent. This exposure damages the skin at cellular level, which in turn results in visible photo-ageing, dermatitis, erythema and even carcinogenesis.

As with visible light and HEV, nanometric titanium dioxide seems to be the solution to protect against IR radiation. Similar studies have also shown that the type of titanium dioxide, the level at which it’s used and the type of formulation play a critical role. Once again, an o/w emulsion with Eusolex T-PRO yielded the best results. In a w/Si emulsion, Eusolex T-S showed the best ability to reduce the transmission of IR light. Apart from the TiO2 based UV filters, specially designed functional fillers have shown great capacity to protect the skin from HEV and IR-A radiation. The RonaFlair Balance Colors, especially Balance Blue (INCI: Mica, Titanium Dioxide and Tin Oxide) and Balance Red (INCI: Mica, Titanium Dioxide and Tin Oxide) performed well in this regard. Interestingly, the combination of both inorganic systems of different shapes and particle size distribution shows additional protective effects (see Figures 1 and 2).

The next line of defense A strong and effective anti-oxidant, such as RonaCare AP (INCI: BisEthylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate) is the next line of defense against all forms of radiation. An antioxidant will reduce the number of free radicals and ROS on the skin regardless at which wavelength they are The 2017 Sepawa Innovation Award, which Merck received for its advanced light protection concept

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

29

SUN CARE

New online SPF prediction tool DSM, a leading manufacturer of UV filters under its heritage brand Parsol, has launched an internet-based tool called the Sunscreen Optimiser.

F

irst presented at the Sunscreen Symposium in Florida, USA, on 16 September, DSM’s Sunscreen Optimiser is now available for free use. The online formulation simulator

enables sunscreen formulators to develop products more efficiently or to optimise existing formulations before proceeding to verify SPF performance in vivo.

A user-friendly interface The Sunscreen Optimiser allows the user to: • c apture all key information at a glance • compare tests for formulation optimisation • personalise their profile in settings • s ave work within a personal archive.

Properly used, today’s sunscreens, particularly those with the highest SPF range, have the capacity to protect even sensitive individuals against high levels of UV radiation. Yet the incidence of skin cancer continues to rise, with between two and three million cases of nonmelanoma and 132 000 cases of melanoma cancers reported globally each year1. DSM,

There is a need for an easy-touse and reliable SPF prediction tool that speeds up sunscreen development

represented in South Africa by Chempure, aims to reduce these numbers by maximising the lifesaving potential of sun protection products. Reducing the time and costs associated with formulating sunscreens takes the company one step closer to making more efficient sunscreens available to consumers worldwide.

A virtual in-silico lab ‘At DSM we believe there is a need for an easy-to-use and reliable SPF prediction tool that speeds up sunscreen development and frees the formulator from concerns about not meeting the marketing brief,’ says Uli Osterwalder, senior scientific advisor: sun care at DSM. ‘The newly launched Sunscreen Optimiser allows formulators

and start experimenting and optimising sunscreen formulations right away.’

The Sunscreen Optimiser is able to take full account of inorganic filters such as TiO 2 and Z nO, as well as factoring in the synergies achieved by polymeric filters and outcomes from the latest research on photostabilisation and photostability kinetics. It also calculates in relation to the in vivo results obtained with performance-boosting water-soluble filters. Following the incorporation of photostability data obtained with Parsol 1789 (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), the online tool can also be used to accurately predict UVA protection values.

Comparison at your fingertips Alexander Schlifke, head of product development: sun care at DSM, comments: ‘The Sunscreen Optimiser allows formulators to compare different formula ideas side by side. Hence, it offers complete clarity about the UV protection contribution of each individual UV filter by providing instant results that are as close as possible to its performance in normal use. Its calculation algorithm takes into consideration a broad range of performance criteria, including regional regulatory requirements. This new tool calculates not only SPF, but also other parameters, including solvent requirements and the new blue light protection, which has been such a hot topic recently.’

Visit www.sunscreen-optimizer.com to sign up and start using this free online tool. • REFERENCE: 1. http://www.who.int/uv/faq/skincancer/en/index1.html, accessed 26 Sep 2017

to enter a virtual in-silico lab on their computers or smartphones

30

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM Personal Care – www.dsm.com

For extended fun in the sun, Grant Industries offers a series of dispersions and blends that provide excellent high performance.

The UV Protection Series from Grant offers complimentary synergies of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide products that may be formulated together to optimise a desired SPF profile, as well as blends to improve water resistance and sun care aesthetics.

These series are perfectly suited for sunscreens, daily wear and colour cosmetic products boasting UVA and UVB protection claims. www.grantinc.com

NATURAL & ORGANIC

The effective compounding of botanical and scientific ingredients

More and more consumers are choosing greener lifestyle options, turning to brands whose environmental values align with their own. Kalahari Lifestyle stands out in the natural skin care category as an ethical brand that offers highly effective, quality products. By Abby Vorster

K

alahari Lifestyle is one of the

‘I recognised the expectation of the

skin against oxidative damage. Kigelia

reasons why consumers want to

modern eco-smart client was changing.

africana, sausage tree extract, has anti-

experience authentic and natural

This inspired me to create a range of

inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties.

skin care. Established in 2010 by

international standard skin and body

Kalahari Melon seed oil protects the skin’s

Carina Franck, this South African brand is

products that not only encapsulates nature

natural hydrolipid (acid mantle) and has

serious about the effective compounding of

but also allow an unforgettable sensory

moistursing and regenerative properties. Oil

botanical and scientific ingredients.

African experience,’ she explains.

extracted from Selaginella lepidophylla –

Franck is often considered a pioneer

Africa’s provenance is woven into

the Rose of Jericho, more commonly known

in the skin care industry. She grew up on

Kalahari Lifestyle’s brand culture. The

as the resurrection plant – has immense

a farm in the Kalahari and therefore her

skin and body products feature various

moisture-locking properties and protects

passion and awareness for nature, plants

exotic African botanical oils and

the skin from transepidermal water loss.

and people are noticeable

extracts. Rooibos tea extract

Devil’s Claw Root extract is rich in water-

throughout the brand.

is rich in anti-oxidants and

soluble and anti-inflamitants, while superior

functions as a free radical

oils such as Mongongo, Baobab, Marula

scavenger, protecting the

and Mafura oils are rich in essential fatty

Skin care entrepreneur and innovator, Carina Franck

acids with multiple unique benefits.

Building the African agenda After launching her line of authentic African spa and body products, Franck focused on developing a phyto-effective range of skin treatments. She worked together with a team of botanical experts and cosmetic scientists to create highly effective formulations with superior grade botanical oils and exceptional African plant extracts.

Franck has also been collaborating with Professor Namrita Lall from the University of Pretoria’s department of Plant Sciences, which forms part of the faculty of natural The sausage tree, Kigelia africana

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

science. Professor Lall has succeeded in validating traditional knowledge using

NATURAL & ORGANIC

THE LIFE AND MOMENTS OF KALAHARI LIFESTYLE 2010 Inspired by the international demand for authentic science to prove the efficacy of certain plant

African spa and professional body products, Kalahari Lifestyle is launched by Carina Franck.

extracts. One of these is Ceratonia siliqua

Kalahari Lifestyle starts distributing to Norway and Sweden.

which is produced in South Africa, is used in two Kalahari Lifestyle skin care products – the

authentic African botanical experience, Kalahari Lifestyle has a rigorous sourcing strategy in place. Only reputable Phytotrade organisations and producers with certified

2013 Kalahari launches a phyto-effective skin care line.

The brand expands its European distribution footprint

Phyto DD Cream and Skin Brightening Gel. phyto-compounding with science for an

offering with a luxury

2012

to even skin tone and assist in brightening

Because the brand combines innovative

The brand extends its retail body range.

(Carob) leaf extract, which has been proven the skin. Because of its benefits, the extract,

2011

2014 Kalahari Lifestyle wins the P C Review/Symrise New

to Denmark and Estonia, and kick starts its African export strategy by distributing to Namibia.

Product Competition and adds Finland to its growing European geographical distribution list. Kalahari also introduces the first phyto-compounding system where skin care specialists can use pure African clays and muds to prepare treatment mediums.

sustainable resources may supply the

2015 The company starts exporting to Kenya. Two of its luxury body products are awarded the

brand. ‘Our stringent eco-awareness

2016

protocols ensure the safety of vulnerable African eco systems,’ Franck explains.

Using natural

‘Great care is taken in the selection of

exfoliation mediums from the Kalahari

pharmaceutical grade ingredients used in

Desert and Africa,

effective combinations with botanical oils

the brand focuses on

and extracts from sustainable sources.’

The company is also socially responsible.

A percentage of Kalahari Lifestyle product

2017 Kalahari introduces several new products to the every changing market as well as the new Professional Chemipeel treatment range. It also

(client-centric) spa

launches a successful distribution network in the

Botanical Buffet.

local communities, giving consumers an

leading products in Sweden.

the personalisation trend and launches its

sold is allocated to causes benefitting

prominent Svensca Award for

Netherlands and Belgium and adds Mozambique to its African countries’ distribution list.

opportunity to make a difference. One of these causes is a food programme, which

As a result, this journey shows no sign of

international trends and inspired by unique

sees Kalahari Lifestyle providing nutritional

slowing down.

ideas from within the company. The brand

food and support to many people, children and families on a daily basis.

‘The Kalahari brand has positioned itself

will also be expanding its global footprint with

as a facilitator in enhancing the power

distribution plans earmarked for the Middle

of nature and to provide consumers

East, New Zealand, Australia and the USA.

A bold brand with big ideas

with the best of Africa’s beauty secrets,

Kalahari Lifestyle has journeyed from one

harnessed sustainably from Mother Nature,’

champion the arena of botanical skin care.

successful achievement to another since

she exclaims.

‘People are seeking a true, authentic brand

its launch seven years ago. This is because

Ultimately, Kalahari Lifestyle will continue to

Franck is a visionary and a strategist.

story and Kalahari Lifestyle in combination

Franck lives by the motto: ‘if your dreams

She has big product development plans

with effective visible results offer clients just

don’t scare you, they’re not big enough’.

for the next few years, which are driven by

that,’ she concludes. •

One of the most respected contract manufacturers in Gauteng, established in 2001 and ISO9001 accredited since 2005.

Manufacturing for clients under private labels, and guiding on latest market trends.

We cater for all requirements, ensuring high quality, value and excellent customer service.

Street: 12 Bundo Road, Sebenza, Edenvale | Postal: P.O. Box 9531, Edenglen, 1613 | Phone: 011 609 4066 | Fax: 011 609 4079 | Email: factory@brunational.co.za

Brunational.indd 1

2018/02/06 12:25 PM

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

33

NATURAL & ORGANIC

A new world of lipid technology

There is new encapsulation technology on the market from Naturethic. These eCapsules are not only biodegradable and biocompatible but also easy to quantify, customisable and compatible with all kinds of cosmetics surfactants. natural and organic cosmetics, owing to 99 percent of their total ingredients being of natural origin and 2.5 percent from organic farming.

PH4 Collagen Explosion eCapsules

(INCI: Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate) have a potent effect on collagen synthesis.

They are treated under special culture conditions to improve skin elasticity.

The Prolyl 4 Hydroxylase or PH4 enzyme is what makes this yeast unique, stimulating collagen fibre synthesis and improving stability.

Anti-Pollution Ferment eCapsules (INCI: Glycerin, Pichia Ferment Lysate Filtrate,

T

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Bacopa he industry continues to

biocompatible and composed of solid

focus its efforts on developing

and liquid lipids (oils).

different carriers to enhance

This new delivery system is specifically

the effectiveness of cosmetics

designed to overcome limitations in the

ingredients. Colloidal carriers such as

release of oil soluble actives. Showing a

emulsions, liposomes and nanoparticles

great stability under different pH ranges

have been widely tested for their potential

and temperatures, the eCapsule’s lipid

to overcome issues related to the solubility

matrix protects the active ingredient

and bioavailability of active ingredients.

against chemical degradation while its

However, these ingredients have some

occlusive properties assist with avoiding

drawbacks such as limited physical

transepidermal water loss. The delivery

stability, polymer cytotoxicity and low

system also helps active ingredients

active loading.

penetrate the skin, providing a sustained

Naturethic, represented in South Africa

release of ingredients and improving

by Materia Medica, specialises in new lipid nanoparticle technology. The company

Monnieri Extract, Lapsana Communis Leaf Extract) are derived from yeast fermentation. The active combats the effects of air pollutants on skin, increases antioxidant levels and reduces heavy metals by four percent in just 24 hours.

ADC eCapsules (INCI: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Chloerlla Vulgaris Powder, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Xanthum Gum, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Tocopherol) are proven to assist with dark under-eye circles by visibly fading existing pigmentation. •

skin tolerance.

Naturethic offers a range of eCapsules

has developed exclusive eCapsules,

for specific claims and applications.

which offer many advantages compared

They are certified by Ecocert Greenline

to existing delivery systems. They are

according to the Ecocert standard for

Materia Medica – www.materiamedica.co.za Naturethic – www.naturethic.es (website coming soon)

DISCOVER A NEW WORLD OF

LIPID TECHNOLOGY eCapsules®, a new delivery system for oil soluble actives, with improved properties, compared to usual carriers in cosmetics such as emulsions, liposomes or polymeric nanoparticles Particle size: 200–400 nm Good skin penetration of active ingredients Not considered as nanoparticles

CONTACT CHANTAL O’BRIEN–DE VILLIERS

072 731 3909 www.materiamedica.co.za

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| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

eCapsules® Advantages Biodegradable Biocompatible Improved penetration Improved stability ECO-certified Easy-to-quantify

Film forming effect Occlusive effect Compatibilty Reinforces skin barrier (due to lipid nature) Easy-to-customise

NATURAL & ORGANIC

From the corn field

to your formulations

L

through its humectant property and film forming on the skin. Additional key benefits provided by the ingredient include the reduction of playtime, smooth and soft skin feel, the elegant and luxurious appearance of emulsion

iponic Bio EG-1 is a sustainably

process and thus has lower carbon emissions

systems and excellent solubilisation

produced multi-functional ingredient

when compared to making ethylene oxide

properties for colourants, powders and

derived from natural, ethical and

from petroleum, allowing us to offer customers

active ingredients.

sustainable feedstocks. Chemically

products that are better for the earth.

it is the 26 mole ethoxylate of glycerin.

‘In many instances bio-based materials

Liponic Bio EG-1 is water soluble and can be used in both hot and cold process

Vantage Specialty Ingredients (Vantage)

have to be used at a higher use level

formulations. This allows the option to use

uses RSPO grade glycerin that is ethically

to achieve the same performance

lower temperatures in processing which

and sustainably sourced. The company

characteristics,’ says Kim MacCallum, sales

leads to a lower carbon footprint as well.

is leading global supplier of the Naturally

executive at Vantage. ‘Our testing has shown

Better Solutions range of ingredients for use in

that Liponic Bio EG-1 has performance

customers have a wide variety of needs

personal care and cosmetics.

equivalence to our Liponic EG-1 at the same

and we are working to offer more options

use level, offering a drop-in solution to current

to formulators when selecting ingredients,’

users of Glycereth-26.’

she concludes. •

The ethylene oxide used to make Liponic Bio EG-1 is derived from ethanol made from

‘Vantage understands that our

corn, which is a natural and sustainable resource. The process of making ethylene

What does Liponic Bio EG-1?

oxide from ethanol is a lower temperature

In skin care applications, Liponic Bio

and more energy efficient manufacturing

EG-1 provides superior skin moisturisation

Vantage Specialty Ingredients – www.vantagespecialties.com

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

35

Novel Hydroglycerites from Africa

NATURAL & ORGANIC

Parceval’s Hydroglycerite range, including Cyclopia Hydroglycerite pictured here, is characterised by its rich colour

Innovative for industry yet faithful to nature

The numbers show natural and organic cosmetics are rapidly gaining in popularity. Parceval believes the key to being competitive in this market is innovation through new ingredients, novel and unique extraction methods or even a new marketing story or origin.

I Agathosma betulina, well-known as Buchu, is also included in Parceval’s Flora Africana range

properties. This knowledge hails from a time when humanity was more connected to its surroundings and used nature as a pharmacy. In many cases these properties have been confirmed by science.

The challenge then is to take the knowledge and formulate an efficacious product that meets the high pharmaceutical and quality standards of today, whilst remaining faithful to the simplicity and unadulterated nature and essence of the plant.

n the natural cosmetics market there

South Africa and Africa’s biodiversity hold

is a strong demand for botanical

promising properties for cosmetics. Take Galenia

extracts with active properties that

africana as an example. This unassuming bush

can reduce or reverse environmental

found largely in the Northern Cape contains

damage, for ‘anti-pollution’ and

high levels of polyphenolic flavonoid fractions,

with the presence of antioxidants for

specifically pinocembrin. This is what makes honey

soothing and cooling benefits in skin

and propolis products so popular. The compound

care products.

exhibits significant antimicrobial, antioxidant and

When selecting a botanical to include

anti-inflammatory activity – earning extracts based

in its cosmetics ingredients range, the

on this plant the nickname, green honey. Galenia,

company’s starting point has always been

commonly known as Kraalbos, also contains other

traditional African knowledge on the medicinal

flavonoids that have been shown to have antifungal

uses of a plant, often1 includes sought-after Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarter page which copy.pdf 2018/01/29 10:51 AM

and antibacterial effects.

WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR LINE UTILISING OUR: • • • •

Remancos Nature is our business | www.remancos.co.za

Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling

• • • •

Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting

RESEARCH & MANUFACTURING COSMETICS

we make your dreams a reality.

Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:

Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email: candicekalil@remancos.co.za

36

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

NATURAL & ORGANIC

DID YOU KNOW?

Getting more involved in the supply chain on Access and Benefit-Sharing (ABS), the leads to an increased focus on corporate importance of which has grown in Europe since social responsibility (CSR) as customers are the EU adopted the guidelines into European more likely to source directly from the country law. As a supplier, it is therefore important to of origin. Parceval manages CSR projects in demonstrate ABS compliance in countries that Madagascar and Somaliland and works together with the non-profit Samara Foundation are signatories to the Nagoya protocol – which in South Africa, which supports early includes South Africa. childhood development and sets up Being intimately involved in sourcing botanical community upliftment projects in raw materials for its clients, Parceval has become rural communities. well versed with ABS implementation in South Africa, participating in national and international conferences, local policy development and biodiversity strategy. The company’s team has set up compliant supply chains in the Eastern Cape and

The route to commercialisation A unique extract needs to be developed which holds the plant’s healing and soothing properties. Although the easier route to market is a top down approach where a cosmetics manufacturer approaches its suppliers, for Parceval’s Flora Africana cosmetics ingredient range, the company chose to start the innovation process, developing the intellectual property for in-house use.

Using internationally recognised Pharmacopoeia for production and testing, the company has developed a hydroglycerite range that captures the plant’s properties in a liquid form and delivers them in vegetable derived glycerine, a humectant that aids skin hydration.

Beyond the usual demands from the cosmetics industry, such as safety, quality and impeccable documentation

Ghana and is currently working on projects in Zimbabwe to establish best practices in bioprospecting and benefit sharing.

Cosmetics products are no longer strictly about the results the product can deliver; consumers now want the bigger picture. Is the product good for me? Is it produced ethically? What impact is being made on the resources it uses? Is it giving back to society? These are the questions Parceval says suppliers and producers will be fielding more and more as the natural and organic segment grows – and it’s time industry becomes equipped to answer them confidently.

So, while working with and producing natural and organic cosmetics brings much complexity and its own set of challenges, it is an exciting market to be part of and opens up many new avenues and untapped possibilities. •

Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Parceval – www.parceval.co.za

to complying with regulations and Registration Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH), customers have special requests such as wanting EU accredited testing services, unique and novel methods of extraction of botanicals or natural preservative systems which are paraben free. Parceval’s Galenia africana derived product, Galenosan has been developed specifically to decrease the inclusion rate of an active required in a formulation. Parceval has also started running paraben free preservative trials on one of its extracts and is optimistic about the results; this will pave the way for more of its cosmetics ingredients to be paraben free.

The company’s products are sold both locally and internationally with Carst & Walker being Parceval’s distribution agent for its hydroglycerite range in South Africa.

Ethical consumerism on the rise This trend is driven by consumers wanting to know the origin of products and whether they are produced sustainably, using ingredients that are sustainably sourced. As sustainable management is of strategic importance to the products Parceval manufactures or sources, especially where resources are wild harvested, this harmonises well with its in-house aims and those of its customers.

The company is focused on creating transparent supply chains, which are traceable from harvest to production, legally (collection permits and all compliance with local legislation), economically (fair contracting with suppliers) and socially (fair pay, health and safety).

European companies need to comply with legislation

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

37

NATURAL & ORGANIC

Closer to nature

Nature has always been a strong source of inspiration for cosmetics, yet it has not always been a main focus. Botanichem’s recent agency agreement with Brasca is putting nature on the industry’s radar in South Africa.

B

company’s expertise. Brasca follows a ‘no impact in progress’ (NIP) programme.

Better than distilled water

smoothness and a rapid absorption rate to

The quality of the water used in a

provide products with enhanced skin feel.

formulation is essential and can play an important part in the sustainability of your formula. By using an organic water, you are giving your product a natural opportunity.

Brasca CytoFruit Waters are 100 percent biologically active waters produced using organic fruits with a complete traceable Mediterranean origin. These waters are safe

otanichem was established with

and dermo-compatible while remaining

the vision to be a reliable and

allergen free. CytoFruit Waters give higher

affordable supplier of ingredients

cellular vitality than distilled water. They

to the cosmetics industry with a

can be used for natural cosmetics,

Brasca respects and preserves nature in its manufacturing process by using only soft processes

particular focus on plant derived ingredients.

such as lotions, serums and emulsions.

A requirement has always been that these

They can also be applied to natural

ingredients are sustainable, support fair

makeup like mascara, body mists and

friendly alternative to microbeads, Celus-Bi

trade and the global trend towards safer

colour foundations.

Sphera, which has zero impact on nature

finished products. As a result, the company

The company also supplies an eco-

and is biodegradable. These natural exfoliating mediums have been safety

that share Botanichem’s commitment to

Innovative butters and microspheres

plant derived, organic and safe products

Brasca Specifeel NH Butters are solid oils

smoothing effect and dead skin removal.

with a conscience.

produced from a sustainable resource. They

They can be used in exfoliating products,

are used for milk and cream emulsions,

cleansers and scrubs and for aesthetic and

and preserves nature in its manufacturing

lotions, serums and massage butters.

functional purposes in body washes, shower

process by using only soft processes and

They can also be applied to lip balm,

gels and shampoos. •

renewable resources. The company offers a

lipstick and mascara. This innovative line

wide range of high performance ingredients,

of non-hydrogenated vegetal butters

building its portfolio with eco-friendly and

is characterised by specific sensorial

innovative products that highlight the

properties, such good spreadability,

choses to partner with international suppliers

It’s newest supplier, Brasca respects

and stability tested and offer a silky, skin

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za

BotanicaTIMOLA®

- Bulbine frutescens leaf juice CONTACT US AT info@timola.co.za | www.timola.co.za

Bulbine frutescens is an indigenous plant with a long history of traditional use in South Africa. The product is an effective remedy for various topical skin conditions.

Botanica Natural Products developed BotanicaTIMOLA® as an active ingredient due to its extraordinary soothing and moisturising benefits for the skin.

The aqueous extract is added at only 3% in skin care formulations and has shown significant improvement in collagen management, wrinkle reduction and stretch mark reduction.

Botanica’s organically certified plantation and production unit are based in Limpopo and the product is marketed extensively throughout Europe, the USA and Asia.

38

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

NATURAL & ORGANIC

Score a formulating homerun with sustainable ingredients

N

atural cosmetics have

butter to retain the plant’s benefits within

of fatty acids that are chemically

never been more popular.

a highly stable base.

similar to the lipidic composition of the

To help brands innovate in

Hallstar’s new SPF50 Matcha Green Tea

skin. It also has the ability to generate

and Mango Butter sunscreen formulation

liquid crystal structures, making it an

marketing premium natural products from

offers inherent water resistance, versatility,

ideal biomimetic ingredient in terms of

its international principal, Hallstar.

stability, no pH issues and the simplicity of

composition and structure for use in a

fewer required ingredients.

wide range of applications. Liquid crystal

this category, Millchem is

The popular Matcha Green Tea Butter

emulsifiers create a multilayer liquid

(INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable

A first for the industry

crystal network that provides skin with

Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder)

Hallstar’s Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl

better and longer lasting hydration than

is based on traditional knowledge

Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) is the beauty

conventional emulsifiers.

benefitting health and wellness. Green

and personal care industry’s first PEG-free

tea is well-known for its medicinal benefits

self-emulsifying biomimetic ingredient.

formulation platform (used between 0.5

and has been used topically in Asia for

This pioneering ingredient supports a wide

and five percent), as well as sensorial

over 1 200 years to help treat skin issues

range of functions and claims, including

versatility. When used in Hallstar’s Best

and for UVB sun protection. Its high

anti-ageing, anti-redness, luminescence,

Cream Ever formulation it provides a gel-

content of xanthines, such as caffeine

hydration and SPF maximisation.

cream consistency that brings a burst of

and theobromine, have natural anti-

As a biomimetic restructuring agent,

inflammatory, anti-cellulite and anti-

Olivem 1000 restores and maintains the

irritancy benefits. Biochemica Matcha

integrity of the skin while providing an

Green Tea contains microfine powder

emulsifying base and pleasant sensoriality.

made from matcha leaves hand-picked in Japan. The powder is suspended in

This botanically derived, functional natural product is a complex combination

Olivem 1000 offers an easy-to-use

moisture to the skin, leaving it refreshed and rejuvenated. •

Hallstar – www.hallstar.com Millchem – giulio@millchem.co.za

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

39

NATURAL & ORGANIC

Naturally derived ingredients are organically good for sunscreens It’s not often you find naturally derived ingredients with the same multifunctional properties as their synthetic counterparts. Jojoba-derived and macadamia-derived ingredients are among this rarity and provide aesthetic benefits and functionality to sunscreen formulations.

By Tiffany Quinn and Robert A Harper

F

loraesters K-20W Jojoba is derived from Simmondsia chinensis Jojoba Seed Oil. It is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care applications from leave-on to rinse-off

products, in both the skin and hair care categories.

Its proven benefits within sunscreen formulations include water resistance and skin hydration.

Floramac 10 is also widely used and has been proven to disperse and solubilise sunscreens, as

Figure 1: Static and 40-minute water immersion SPF

well as provide skin hydration and a dry emolliency similar to that of silicones. Both ingredients, developed by Floratech and distributed locally by Savannah Fine Chemicals, support the use of oilfree claims.

Sunscreen formulations Broad spectrum sunscreens contain a combination of organic and inorganic actives in line with the FDA sunscreen monograph or respective regulations within different countries. These formulations also contain a variety of ingredients, either natural or synthetic, which are mutually beneficial to the formulator and consumer when they perform multiple functions within a given formulation. These ingredients are used to enhance aesthetics, increase the efficiency of the sunscreen actives (e.g. sunscreen boosters), provide water resistance, or create multifunctional products such as BB creams and foundations with SPF.

40

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

NATURAL & ORGANIC

The sunscreen formula with five percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba increased skin hydration

Figure 2: Increased skin hydration with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba

To test the water resistance benefit of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba, the ingredient was incorporated into an o/w sunscreen formulation at five percent. SPF testing was conducted according to the US FDA Final Rule; 21 CFR Parts 201 and 310 on a population of three subjects per test article1.

After 40 minutes of water immersion, the sunscreen formula with five percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba had a 28 percent higher SPF than the vehicle formula.

The active formulation also maintained a SPF rating of 15 while the vehicle formula didn’t maintain its SPF rating (see Figure 1). These results indicate that the

outer leg of female subjects with dry legs (n=17). Skin

film-forming Floraesters K-20W Jojoba keeps titanium

hydration measurements using the Corneometer CM

dioxide on the skin after water immersion.

825 were taken at baseline, one and two hours post-

The same o/w sunscreen formulation was evaluated for skin hydration, with and without the

test article application2, 3.

The sunscreen formula containing five percent

inclusion of five percent Floraesters K-20W Jojoba.

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba increased skin hydration

One application of each test article was made to the

both statistically and significantly (p<0.05) more

P C Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

41

NATURAL & ORGANIC

Floramac 10 at five percent assists in the dispersion of titanium dioxide

than the control formula at one and two

concentration of 25 percent. Avobenzone is

glycol, lanolin oil and castor oil. The

hours post-test article application (see

also was soluble in Floramac 10 (with heat

second technique is incorporating the

Figure 2). Previous studies also showed that

followed by cooling) up to a concentration

use of a solubiliser. These techniques help

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba traps glycerin at

of 20 percent. Benzophenone-3 was also

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba remain stable

the skin’s surface, promoting increased and

soluble in both Floramac 10 and Finsolv

within any system.

extended skin hydration4.

TN (with heat) up to a concentration of 20

Naturally derived ingredients that

percent and, with heat followed by cooling,

offer functionality in a formulation while

Solubilising organic sunscreen actives

up to a concentration of 15 percent (see

enhancing its effectiveness can be highly

Table 1). Previous studies also show that

useful in sunscreen applications. Both

A 10 percent concentration of Avobenzone

Floramac 10 at five percent assists in the

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floramac 10

and Benzophenone-3 were hand mixed

dispersion of titanium dioxide and provides

boast these attributes. Floraesters K-20W

into each test emollient (Floramac 10 or

statistically significant (p<0.05) increases in

Jojoba is a film former that adds water

Finsolv TN) at room temperature (RT). Both

skin hydration5.

resistance to sunscreen formulations, as

solutions rested at room temperature for

well as skin hydration benefits to sunscreen consumers. Floramac 10 is a dry emollient

were conducted: soluble (S) or insoluble

Formulating with Floraesters K-20W Jojoba

(IS, i.e. visually apparent crystallisation).

This ingredient comprises 20 percent

and inorganic sunscreen actives within a

If the sunscreen was insoluble at room

hydrolysed jojoba esters (i.e. potassium

sunscreen formulation, as well as impart

temperature, the solution was slowly heated

jojobate and jojoba alcohols) and 80

a non-greasy skin-feel without sacrificing

to 70°C with mixing (stir bar) then additional

percent water, creating a unique emollient

skin hydration. The use of these two unique

solubility evaluations were conducted.

that is neither water nor oil soluble. There

ingredients in a sunscreen formulation not

After heating, solutions were rested at room

are, however, techniques that can be

only perpetuates the creation of novel,

temperature for seven hours to determine if

utilised by a formulator to incorporate

functional sun care products, but could

the sunscreens would remain soluble after

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba into nearly

also allow for the development of more

cooling to room temperature. Sunscreen

any finished product. The most effective

elegant sunscreen-containing moisturisers

concentrations were increased at five

technique is pre-dispersion. Floraesters

and colour cosmetics. •

percent intervals until sunscreens were

K-20W Jojoba is soluble or dispersible

insoluble at room temperature after being

in decyl glucoside, glycerin, propylene

heated to 70°C.

glycol, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol,

one hour before solubility evaluations

Avobenzone is soluble in both Floramac 10 and Finsolv TN (with heat) up to a

that can be used to incorporate organic

polysorbate 20 and polysorbate 80. It is partially soluble or dispersible in butylene

Table 1: Solubility of Avobenzone and Benzophenone-3

Avobenzone concentration in Floramac 10

RT

10%

IS

S

15%

IS

S

20%

IS

25%

IS

Benzonephenone-3 Concentration in Floramac 10

70°C (7 hours)

REFERENCES:

Avobenzone Concentration in Finsolv TN

RT

S

10%

IS

S

S

S

15%

IS

S

S

S

S

20%

IS

S

S

S

IS

25%

IS

S

S

RT

70°C (initial)

70°C (7 hours)

Benzonephenone-3 Concentration in Finsolv TN

RT

70°C (initial)

70°C (7 hours)

10%

IS

S

S

10%

IS

S

S

15%

IS

S

S

15%

IS

S

S

20%

IS

S

IS

20%

IS

S

IS

42

70°C (initial)

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

Floratech – www.floratech.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

70°C (initial)

70°C (7 hours)

1. SPF testing conducted by Suncare Research Laboratories, LLC (Winston Salem, NC) 2. All studies were IRB-approved, randomised, double-blind and vehicle-controlled 3. Corneometer CM 825 is a product of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany) 4. R heins L, Harper R, Sondgeroth J, Ashley D, Oliphant T, Marshall B. The Role of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters as a Unique Botanical Technology for Long Acting Moisturisation. The 67th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology American Academy of Dermatology. San Francisco, CA, 6 to 10 March 2009 5. Oliphant T, Harper R. Benefits of Naturally-Derived Ingredients in Sunscreens. Personal Care Europe. November 2016.

SOUTH AFRICAN

February 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 2

www.pharmacos.co.za

The

NEW way to open packs Locally produced vision inspection systems

The pros and cons of Industry 4.0

NEWS

Design fundamentals THE DESIGN, SHAPE and style of pack are

tick all the boxes of packaging concepts. On page

key to a product’s aesthetics and reinforces

45, PACKAGING REVIEW looks at a patented

brand recognition among consumers.

one hand opening and dispensing technology now

Needless to say, it’s clear a brilliantly

available in South Africa. A holistic concept that

designed pack can turn a product into a

standardises ready-to-use packaging in a single tub

life-affirming brand.

format is featured on page 46.

Before purchasing a product, consumers often ask whether it fits their expectations,

Happy reading.

matches their requirements, budgets

edition, we feature innovations that

IN THE WORLD of packaging, it is sometimes complicated to achieve a packaging design that

and more importantly, if it will increase a business’ market share. In this

Prioritising quality in packaging design

Assistant Editor Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za

combines simple, minimal and elegant elements and requires complex processing. The paperboard carton for Jimmy Choo’s L’Eau is a clear example of this. The packaging’s colour is pale pink and the actual medium passed through 12 finishing

Smart, practical unit dose now includes an applicator

stages. The carton is Invercote stock from

THE LAMEPLAST SINGLE dose is smarter than ever.

blind-embossed snakeskin pattern with two rows

Not only does it combine practicality, safety and the

surfaces, among others.

The research behind the product focuses

Iggesund Paperboard. The packaging is offset printed on both the inside and outside. The inner printing is a pale pink shade, creating a mood around the bottle. Externally the packaging has a of text on the front. The outside is also laminated

right quantity of a product, it also comes with an

increasingly on innovation. Practicality is a must,

with soft touch film, matte varnished and foil

applicator. For optimised results and to encourage

without forgetting the specific characteristics of each

embossed with silver and holographic films.

correct product application, the applicator can be

product. To guarantee maximum quality, the unit dose

offered in a variety of versions. These are simple and

is manufactured in a single phase. The applicator

by the fact that its smooth surface allowed a very

smooth, with brush, sponge or irregular massaging

is inserted immediately into the container, which

faithful reproduction of our design in terms of

eliminates the risk of product leakage and maintains

colour and hot foil stamping. It also brings great

sterility until it is opened.

embossing properties to achieve the impressive

‘Our choice to use Invercote G was motivated

The applicator is fitted with a cap that has a high

snakeskin pattern on the whole packaging,’ says

tab. This holds the product information label in line with

Axel Marot, supply chain and operations director

current regulations. For example, the Data Matrix and

at Interparfums.

QR Code can be inserted in compliance with EU and US counterfeit regulations (FMD and DSCSA respectively).

This single dose is available individually or in strips. It is suitable for medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetics use etc. It can be made with various plastics,

For producers of advanced paperboard packaging involving many finishing stages, one paperboard property of critical importance to the end result is dimensional stability.

The paperboard is constructed in several layers.

guaranteeing high chemical resistance. It can also be

This is not only important for dimensional stability

developed with bio-based materials that are designed

but also reduces the risk of cracks in creases

with environmental sustainability in mind.

compared with single-ply paperboard and paper.

‘When people hire the best creatives and

Trelleborg demonstrates its printing solutions

choose star photographers and models but don’t understand that the quality of the packaging material must be correspondingly high,

THE COMPANY SHOWCASED its Vulcan, Rollin, Printec and Sava offset blanket brands at

then I do wonder

the recent Saudi Print & Pack exhibition. The event took place from 21 to 24 January and

if they’re thinking

provided the perfect platform for Trelleborg to demonstrate its plans to integrate Sava

along the right lines,’

products into its portfolio.

adds Edvin Thurfjell,

Tomaž Perčič, director at Trelleborg in Slovenia, says the event was an excellent launch pad for 2018. ‘The potential for enhancing efficiencies in sales, R&D and production were

product manager for Invercote.

significant and extremely exciting. We offered customers an even greater product range, with an unrivalled choice of solutions for their specific offset requirements.’

Visitors to the stand were able to learn about the latest developments in offset blankets for sectors such as packaging, commercial print and metal decorative printing. Experts were on hand to discuss offset-related technical issues, for example, the impact of low-energy UV systems and how blankets are best utilised to improve the profitability of the press.

44

| FEBRUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

The simple and minimalist design of Jimmy Choo’s L’Eau requires complex processing

INNOVATION & DESIGN

STREAMLINED PACKS

AT THE CLICK OF YOUR FINGER Marketable to a wide audience, the patented one-hand opening and dispensing technology, Easysnap is now available in South Africa. This single serving packaging is designed for liquid and semiliquid products.

E

asysnap opens up and dispenses a product by means of folding the pack in half. The patented incision on the

bottom film, previously mechanically made, progressively breaks a barrier, which allows the product to flow out in a controlled manner. The bottom film is unbreakable, unless it is folded over a 90° angle. There is no product contamination during opening or distribution. This technology can replace

The Pulsar 351 machine

There are many advantages in terms of flexibility and production costs for units

conventional containers, which include sachets, small bottles and tubes with

up to 3 000kg of weight placed

contents ranging from 0.1 to 30mℓ.

on it without breaking. It is also

‘There are many advantages in

ideally suited to being used by

terms of flexibility and production

geriatrics,’ says Myles Davis,

costs for units. Easysnap can handle

director of MGSA Consulting.

The company is currently the sole supplier of this technology in southern Africa

DID YOU KNOW?

There is a 12-year patent on the design and packaging of Easysnap units.

and SADC. These units have been designed

and 30mℓ There is a rapid conversion available for settings and filling systems. Production

capacity is up to 320 units per minute.

by Easysnap Technology, a company

Weighing 2 800kg, the installed power

based in Italy, with exclusive rights in the

of this machine amounts to 22kW. This

production of these packs.

machine is equipped with various dosing systems for liquid and semi-liquid

FUNCTIONALITY AND DESIGN

TAILORED TO SUITABILITY

products suitable for four different filling

The Easysnap opening solution is

The entire surface of the packaging,

systems. The technology can also be set

both front and back, can be

up to optimise performance according

customised with a company’s visual

to the features of different products and

identity or communications. Marketing

market needs.

simplified by its: • equitable use, accessible to users and provides diverse abilities • flexible in use, fitting a wide range of individual needs to dispense, drop dispense or consumed orally directly from the pack • simple and intuitive use, eliminating unnecessary complexity as it opens with a natural gesture • perceptible information owing to the semi-rigid structure of the pack and tactile difference between the top and bottom, which effectively communicates how it should be used, even in the absence of information • tolerance for error, minimising hazards and adverse consequences of accidental actions.

This is because the pack will not open unless intentionally folded.

goals or distribution channels can be included on packs. It comprises a completely printable surface. High

The Pulsar 351 comprises a panel PC 15 inch touch screen.

All Easysnap facilities are third party

definition flexographic or rotogravure

audited, ensuring excellence in all

printing processes combined with

processes and standards.

inline printing can be implemented on the back.

Examples of products already packaged in these units are liquid medications, baby care products,

HOW IT’S MADE POSSIBLE

ointments, toothpastes, body

The Easysnap Pulsar 351 film flow with

lotions, hand sanitisers, sun creams,

thermal transfer print is the machine

moisturisers, mouthwashes and

responsible for creating this unique

hair conditioners •

packaging. Easysnap has a worldwide patent. It can be supplied from four to eight lanes with only one reel film size. It can perform fills of between 0.1

MGSA Consulting – www.mgsaconsulting.co.za

Packaging Review | FEBRUARY 2018 |

45

INNOVATION & DESIGN

Safety and simplicity for pharmaceuticals The number of blockbuster drugs developed have decreased over the past few years, while the production of biopharmaceuticals and other small batch drugs have increased.

This has put pressure on pharmaceutical and biotech companies to find flexible ways to fill small batches and different containers for different markets. PACKAGING REVIEW explores what is on the market to address this need.

T

he international technology group, Schott is simplifying

drug development and manufacturing with its iQ platform. Described as a holistic concept, this

DID YOU KNOW?

Starrate is the exclusive agent and distributor for Schott in sub-Saharan Africa. The company is situated in KwaZulu-Natal and supplies pharmaceutical packaging and biological media throughout Africa.

innovation standardises ready-to-use (RTU) syringes,

the whole process more efficient. The same is true on drug filling lines.

BENEFITS FOR AFRICA Mason Bizzell, MD at Starrate,

says the company examined how this innovation would enhance general

format to run on the same filling line. The

healthcare on the continent.

result is reduced changeover times. iQ relies on the proven nest-and-

‘iQ excites us because it opens the door for increased, improved and safer

tub format, which has been used

domestic drug manufacturing. Africa

for decades by the pharmaceutical

is in desperate need of solutions that

industry to fill syringes. It is compatible

reduce the total cost of ownership of

with a diverse array of filling line models

drug manufacturing while improving

from different manufacturers. It was

quality and safety for patients. At times,

developed to help pharmaceutical

these points can appear conflicting

companies retain flexibility in response

or unattainable with one suffering

to rapidly changing market conditions

because of the other,’ he adds.

and demand, while ensuring patient

Bizzell says the platform paves a clear

safety with high quality RTU containers.

path for injectable drug manufacturing

This solution significantly reduces the

to reach its ideals on this continent.

time and effort needed to qualify and validate packaging containers on

WHAT’S TO BE EXPECTED

a filling line. Implementation of RTU

The platform’s concept covers

containers is easy and swift compared

syriQ prefillable syringes and

to bulk solutions. Versatile sizes of vials,

adaptiQ ready-to-use vials,

syringes and cartridges all come in the

with the cartriQ ready-to-use

same tub. The tubs are standardised

cartridges scheduled to be made

according ISO 11040-7.

available this year. A versatile portfolio of container formats

results in less changing of machine

and options are available for any

parts when switching between

pharmaceutical application.

containers. This means various drugs

The company has committed to

can be filled in different containers on

helping manufacturers change from

one line with little changeover time

batch to batch, vials to syringes or even

in between.

cartridges. Schott has developed the

According to Schott, creating a

iQ platform in collaboration with the

standardised nest-and-tub format for

world’s largest filling line suppliers to

pharmaceutical manufacturing is much

standardise packaging dimensions

like the standardised containers used

and simplify the entire filling process.

to ship freight. By having a uniform

In addition, the company continues to

size and shape, there’s no need

work with the world’s largest elastomer

to use different ships for different

component suppliers to ensure the

containers, no need for specialised

offering of pre-validated and flexible

cranes, different vehicles or rail

container systems. •

cars for transporting the containers Versatile sizes of vials, syringes and cartridges all come in the same tub

| FEBRUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

Having a standard makes

vials and cartridges within a single tub

One single tub fitting for any nest

46

to their final destination.

Schott – www.schott.com Starrate – www.starrate.co.za

Pharmaceutical Packaging and Biological Solutions for Africa

Pharmaceutical Packaging & Biological Products

Starrate is a leading supplier of pharmaceutical packaging and biological media in Africa.

Representing global industry leaders and technology groups, Schott Kaisha, West Pharmaceutical Services, Bormioli Rocco, CellSera Australia and Brilliant Biopharma.

Starrate’s core focus: • • • • •

Packaging systems and components for Injectable medicines Containers for solid and liquid orally ingested medicines Serum and specialized animal based media Bulk Antigens Strategic Veterinary Vaccines

Supplying and servicing a customer base in over 20 African countries.

Majority market share in injectable primary packaging.

In business for over 25 years.

Distributors for

cellsera !

+27 (0)31 312 0108 | info@starrate.co.za | www.starrate.co.za

INSPECTION & DETECTION

Quality lies in the

eye of the detector There is a new vision inspection system on the market and it’s been developed in South Africa. PACKAGING REVIEW talks to Intelligent Inspection Systems about its various techniques, equipment and algorithms that assist in solving a multitude of problems.

J

onathan Fitzpatrick, sales manager at Intelligent Inspection Systems says the All Surface Bottle

inspection system is designed to fit into any

Specifications and dimensions of the inspection technology from Intelligent Inspection Systems

manufacturing line process. ‘The line can be split to accommodate the system or the system can be added to the end of the line as a final quality inspection.’

He describes this technology as an efficiently designed, compact, versatile unit made to fit perfectly on any existing line.

The system’s software, i2s ideal, has been designed as a user-friendly application. It has a touch screen interface and self-teaching algorithms.

‘The operator can teach the system how it should function by using 10 to 20

ADVANTAGES OF VISION INSPECTION SYSTEMS

operation samples. The system performs optimal anomaly detection along all contours. It has also been designed to

Having an inspection system at your disposal gives you the benefit of a higher accuracy rate compared to manual inspection. A superior quality product is produced, which provides better brand integrity. It also frees up resources from additional areas of the line and lowers costs owing to less product recalls.

inspect a variety of sizes through the same unit,’ he explains.

The rugged, aluminium and stainless steel housing protects the cameras and optics. There is an air cooled stainless steel cabinet for electronics within the machine.

A six camera view provides images at a 60° separation. The inspection capability

system has consecutive rejects. This

for the detection of holes decreases rapidly over the final 10° of the curvature.

In addition, the changeover process takes

assists in preventing the production of The All Surface Bottle Inspection system

about 15 to 20 minutes.

INSTALLATIONS TO DATE

HOW THE SYSTEM WORKS

contamination, flashing, colour, short

Bottles that have been produced are

moulding, cavity numbers, damage and

placed on an existing conveyor. They

measurements. Faulty or imperfect bottles

are then fed into the inspection system

are rejected from the line at a rejection

via a set of horizontal conveyors. The

station. Images of the last 50 defects are

conveyors transport the bottles past a

stored. These highlight areas that are

base camera for base defect inspections.

out of specification. A red circle appears

These are then placed on a vacuum

on the screen indicating each defect,

conveyor, which carries them past a

keeping the operator informed on the

series of strategically placed cameras for

types of rejects occurring.

further inspection.

All bottles are examined for a range of defects including ovality, holes,

48

| FEBRUARY 2018 | Packaging Review

unnecessary scrap.’

Fitzpatrick says this is very handy for set up and maintenance of the manufacturing equipment. ‘The

According to Fitzpatrick, a number of inspection systems have been installed at a Sweden facility whilst one was ordered from the UK. ‘We just received an order for three more systems, which are currently in production and should be ready to be shipped in less than two months. We have also sold this technology in South Africa to a cosmetics manufacturing customer.’ •

Intelligent Inspection Systems – www.i2systems.co.za

INDUSTRY TALK

Coping with societal discourse Industry 4.0 will have a strong impact on South African manufacturers in the coming years. It remains a key topic in the country and around the world.

the demands placed on workers themselves can be reduced. How the increase in productivity is divided among workers depends crucially on social partners. The impact on the general situation of workers and unskilled labour can be positive. On the other hand, their skilled counterparts will have to come to terms with growing pressure on performance and skills.

DISCOURSE ON THE REVOLUTIONAL CHANGE The digitisation of daily lives is bringing many improvements in its wake. Increased efficiency, improvements in productivity and new services it can provide will change our society, consumer behaviour and corporate landscape. This transformation will mean countries that promote digitisation will be able to defend and build on their competitive position. Against this background, Germany must learn to cope with intense global demographic change in society and the working world.

The change to a digital society will take place over the next 20 to 35 years. The course of growing demand for skills and training, the transformation from analogue to digital infrastructure and the adaption of fully integrated commercial ecosystems will not run smoothly. Looking at the impact of Industry 4.0 it would seem multiple polarisation lies ahead in which, depending on the combination, individuals, regions and industries will see advantages but

Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

D

igital transformation and associated technologies such as big data, cloud services and collaborating robots in particular are generating enormous interest.

Considerations of risks and opportunities for the workplace

also risks that cannot be influenced directly. •

Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions

and society at large have been rudimentary and fragmented.

‘Technology is developing at an increasingly fast pace.

As a nation, we cannot afford to be left behind,’ says Victor Marques, country manager at Omron South Africa.

CHANGING WORKING CONDITIONS To remain globally competitive, local manufacturers need to find ways to adapt, using the technologies driving the so-called Fourth Industrial Revolution, while maintaining and creating jobs in an environment of high unemployment numbers.

Technology is developing at an increasingly fast pace. As a nation, we cannot afford to get left behind

Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet

Articulated robot Viper

SCARA robot eCobra

Mobile robot LD Series

The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency.

Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!

Industry 4.0 will influence the conditions of and requirements for employees in many areas. A new scenario is emerging driven by the application of machine-to-machine communication and an increase in the realisation of

Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za

autonomous systems. As a result, the demand for qualified production controllers and managers has increased, yet

robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 1 Packaging Review |

FEBRUARY 2018 |20-07-17 49 12:52

Tea time

Diamond Crossword Clues ACROSS 2. Major artery (5) 4. Renounce (9) 6. Reverend (5) 7. Oval (7) 9. Put together (8) 10. Self-important (8) 13. Vitriolic (7) 15. Male duck (5) 16. Magnifying instrument (9) 17. Obviate (5)

DOWN 1. Reduced in scope (8) 2. Clothing (7) 3. Take or use (5) 4. Lying down (9) 5. Spying (9) 6. Panorama (5) 8. Delete (5) 11. Sequoia tree (7) 12. Cutting implement (8) 14. Lightweight wood (5) 1

2

3

4

5

6

7

9

8

10

11

12 13

14

15

16

TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Sudoku

17

3 8

7

5

6

2

9 2

1

Carla Melless

3

Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

6

Candida Giambo-Kruger

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

Bidvest Panalpina Logistics.............IFC........ www.bpl.za.com Botanica Natural Products............... 38........ www.timola.co.za Bottle Printers................................. 32........ www.bottleprinters.co.za Bruker............................................. 24........ www.bruker.co./optics Brunational..................................... 33........ www.brunational.co.za Cosmetic Export Council SA.............14........ www.cecosa.co.za ChemSystems............................... OFC........ www.chemsystems.co.za Chempure........................................16........ www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................17........ www.cjpchemicals.co.za Evonik............................................. 29........ www.evonik.com Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories.. 25........ www.hersol.co.za IMCD...............................................31........ www.grantinc.com Labotec.......................................... 23........ www.labotec.co.za

50

| FEBRUARY 2018 | P C Review

6

7

8

1

8

Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

6

3 4

1

9 7

9

Materia Medica............................... 34........ www.materialmedica.co.za Metrohm......................................... 27........ www.metrohm.com/mira MillChem........................................ 39........ www.millchem.co.za Nautica Organic Trading................. 37........ www.nauticaorganics.com Remancos...................................... 36........ www.remancos.co.za Rotolabel......................................OBC........ www.rotolabel.co.za Omron............................................ 49........ www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals................41........ www.savannah.co.za Starrate........................................... 47........ www.starrate.co.za USS Pactech....................................19........ www.wipotec-ocs.com Vantage Speciality Chemicals......... 35........ www.vantagegrp.com Wrapsa............................................21........ www.wrapsa.co.za

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives

Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the

Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &

World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of

cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.

accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER

QUANTUM COLOURS SA

Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme

Your No. 1 industry leader

offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social

for the most comprehensive

needs and well being.

ranges of both synthetic and

At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across

natural colours – used in food,

SA, cosmetics are used as tools

pharmaceutical, cosmetic and

to address visible side effects of

industrial applications.

treatment to assist patients to restore

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

self-esteem and face the world

supplied and marketed globally

with confidence.

under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.lgfb.co.za

www.quantumcolours.co.za