HAIR CARE
Unlocking the potential of CBD on oily skin and scalp
The current CBD trend has the internet buzzing with over one million tags on social media and over half a million published articles. Strict regulations have stunted research on cannabidiol, but that has not hampered the product’s popularity in the beauty industry. At Infinitec, we believe CBD and other cannabinoids have the potential to be major players as personal care ingredients. By Natascia Grimaldi and Joan Gonzalez
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ur latest launch, CBD Oil Balance, available in South Africa from Materia Medica, provides an update on the advances in CBD research to date and confirms the therapeutic potential of CBD for oily skin and scalp. CBD Oil Balance consists of a nanostructured lipid-based carrier enriched by hemp seed oil (HSO) and encapsulated isolated, organic CDB (THC<0.0001%) (see Figure 1). Olah et al. have already suggested that CBD has enormous potential in the treatment of oily skin; previously published in vitro studies have demonstrated that CBD normalises the elevated lipogenesis induced by pro-acne agents, suppresses sebocytes proliferation without affecting their viability and prevents the inflammation associated with pro-acne agents.1, 2 & 3 CBD is a highly lipophilic molecule which impairs its use in oil-free formulations for oily skin and scalp. With Infinitec’s nanostructured lipidic capsules, we close this gap, opening
Personal and Home Care Polymer Manufactures Opacifiers Conditioners Sensory modifiers Rheology modifiers Emulsifiers
Figure 1: Schematic representation of CBD OIL Balance
the floodgates for a powerful oil-soluble active in oil-free formulations for the treatment of oily skin and scalp. CBD Oil Balance unlocks the ultimate potential of CBD, improving CBD’s stability against premature degradation, enhancing its skin penetration and bioavailability, as well as boosting its therapeutic activity on oily skin and scalp working in the synergy with HSO. Clinically proven through two in vivo studies, CBD Oil Balance is effective in the treatment of oily skin thanks to its excellent sebum-regulating capacity (reducing sebum secretion by 33% in 14 days); by decreasing the number, area and size of sebaceous glands by 47%; decreasing anti-acne activity by 37% measured in the presence of porphyrins in skin; and by lessening skin erythema and its noticeable microbiota-balancing therapeutic effect on oily skin. In 28 days, CBD Oil Balance also effectively reduces sebum by 28%, with the best responder showing an 84% reduction, and scalp inflammation by 40%.
ENHANCED STABILITY AND SKIN/SCALP PENETRATION The stability of CBD in CBD Oil Balance (0.1% CBD) has been studied using an HPLC and compared to that of CBD in oil (0.1% CBD in Waglinol). We also studied the skin penetration of free CBD versus CBD Oil Balance, following the OECD 428. CBD shows better stability when encapsulated in CBD Oil Balance as well as an enhanced skin penetration (see Figure 2 A and B). Enhanced penetration is fundamental to ensure CBD Oil Balance reaches the sebaceous glands and exerts its action in both the skin and scalp.
IN VITRO EFFICACY ASSESSMENT
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The ability of CBD Oil Balance to inhibit excessive sebum production was demonstrated by oil-red assay. For this study, we used arachnoids acid as a lipogenesis enhancer and untreated sebocytes as the control, as well as sebocytes