COLOUR COSMETICS
Beauty you can feel
Sensient creates cosmetics formulations to delight the senses. Using its expertise in flavours, scents and colours, the company brings summer makeup trends to life with unique sensory characteristics.
By Patricia Kruger
C
onsumers’ brand loyalty continues to dwindle with beauty shoppers seeking newer and more exciting sensorial experiences.
Formulators should note that an engaging sensorial experience involves as many senses as possible. When it comes to cosmetics, it’s mainly touch, sight and smell with consumers’ first experience of a brand being through its packaging. As an authority on colour and sensory, which provides products to a broad spectrum of industries, Sensient’s teams are involved in producing solutions that touch every aspect of consumers’ lives.
DID YOU KNOW?
This unique market reach, from consumer goods and cosmetics to food and textiles, gives the company a 360° vision of consumers’ expectations and future colour cosmetics trends. The sense of touch is extremely important for most beauty consumers. It is engaged from the pick-
Sensient’s loose powder lipstick brings intense colour to the lips with a twinkling effect
The colour cosmetics category is unique when it comes to the shopping experience. While consumers seek sensorial skin soft to touch even experimentation from products, they have hours later. Texture is increasingly moved towards mobile apps and another factor, which virtual platforms to learn new makeup techniques not only conveys efficacy and how to use a wide range of products. These in a product but also different tools help brands to build consumers a sense of luxury and loyalty, driving their purchase decision and emotional memory – Juliana Martins, differentiation – this can beauty and personal care analyst be exploited to expand on a at Mintel. brand’s unique story.
up of cream until well after the
product is completely absorbed,
Powder to cream lipstick
leaving a desirable after feel. In a recent study in the UK, Mintel found that
There are a variety of solutions available to
three out of five women perceive a cosmetics
formulators to obtain a desired feel when
product to be ‘moisturising’ when it leaves
formulating colour cosmetics. Emollients are usually added for their
Table 1: Aqua powder lipstick formulation guide
Phase
A
B
C
18
smoothing and softening properties. They
Commercial name
INCI name [EU]
% w/w
encompass a broad range of molecules,
Alumina AS-EM
Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
4.50
which can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or silicone
Talc AS R0435
Talc (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
6.00
Unipure Red LC3075 AS
CI 15850 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
1.00
Covapearl Star Bright 9332 AS
CI 77891 (and) Mica (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
4.50
Covabead LH 85
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
2.00
Pure water
Aqua
69.40
Citric acid
Citric acid
0.30
Glycerin
Glycerin
8.00
Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol
0.30 1.00
Fucosorb WP
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract (and) Sorbitol (and) Aqua (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Sodium Benzoate
Covagel
Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch
3.00
| AUGUST 2017 | P C Review
based. Their impact on texture varies and is dependent on their molecular weight, polarity, chemical composition, etc. Sensient’s Natpure Feel M-Eco is an example of a natural emollient that combines the conditioning and moisturising benefits of esters while providing a silicone-like lightness upon application. Gelling agents, also known as thickeners or stabilisers, are ingredients that dissolve in one phase to form a weakly cohesive structure, modifying a product’s rheology. Going beyond the simple adjustment of viscosity, modern thickeners can deeply transform a texture to create unexpected experiences for consumers. Covacryl AC, a sodium polyacrylate gelling agent, can create stringy serums, which are popular in Korean beauty.