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CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

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P R O L J E Δ E

I N F L I G H T

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S P R I N G

PROLJEΔE

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

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SPRING 2013


STAY BALANCED Experience Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafĂŠs, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! `,:HI>C(I6N6A6C8:9,:AAC:HHE68@6<: `,:HI>C':C:L6AE68@6<: `(I6NÉ&#x192;C><=IHQ(6K:É&#x192;É  FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT WESTINRES.ZAGREB@WESTIN.COM

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Urednik fotografije/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader

Dobro doπli na joπ jedan od naπih letova. Raduje me πto ste odabrali zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa za svoje putovanje i nadam se da Êe vam vrijeme provedeno s nama proteÊi ugodno... Evo nas u ljetnom redu letenja, koji vrijedi od 31. oæujka do 26. listopada. Drago nam je πto vam moæemo ponuditi nove moguÊnosti i povoljnije cijene putovanja, kako biste πto kvalitetnije proveli svoj odmor ili poslovno putovanje. Novost su u ljetnom redu letenja letovi Pula − Frankfurt te Split − Kassel, a ponovno Êe se letjeti iz Zagreba i Dubrovnika u Atenu te iz Zagreba u Barcelonu. Takoer, letjet Êe se iz Splita u Beograd, Düsseldorf i Berlin, a naπi zrakoplovi opet Êe povezati i dva turistiËka bisera − Dubrovnik i Veneciju. Prelistate li tijekom leta naπ putni Ëasopis, vjerujem kako Êe vaæu paænju privuÊi neki od zanimljivih tekstova koji smo za vas pripremili te atraktivne fotografije. Ovaj broj poËinjemo intervjuom s najboljim vaterpolistom na svijetu, Josipom PaviÊem. Od kontinentalnih gradova predstavljamo vam grad po mjeri, Bjelovar. Dakako, vodimo vas i na more, u Split, mediteranski grad πiroka srca i tople juænjaËke duπe. Kad je rijeË o europskim gradovima, u ovom broju naπeg Ëasopisa moæete proËitati tekst o Den Haagu, nizozemskoj metropoli, koja postaje sve zanimljivije city break odrediπte. »ast nam je πto smo za naπ Ëasopis razgovarali i s njemaËkim veleposlanikom u Hrvatskoj gospodinom Hansom Peterom Annenom, koji se, kaæe, u Hrvatskoj, osjeÊa kao kod kuÊe. A osim tekstova u Ëasopisu Croatia pred vama, mnoge zanimljive i korisne informacije moæete naÊi i na naπoj web stranici www.croatiaairlines.hr. Raduje nas πto je proglaπena jednom od 10 najboljih web stranica u Hrvatskoj, u kategoriji Turizam i putovanja, te joj je tako dodijeljena prestiæna titula VIDI WEB TOP 10. Dragi putnici, bez obzira na to putujete li turistiËki ili ste na poslovnom putovanju, æelimo vam mnogo lijepih, ugodnih i uspjeπnih dana u Hrvatskoj te zahvaljujem πto letite Croatia Airlinesom.

Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Dear passengers, Welcome aboard another one of our flights. I am pleased that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your trip, and I hope the time you spend with us will be pleasant… Our summer flight schedule has started, and it is valid from 31 March to 26 October. We are pleased to be able to offer you new possibilities and more favourably priced tickets so that your holiday or business trip is even better. The novelties in our summer timetable are the flights Pula − Frankfurt and Split − Kassel, and once again we will have

D. FabijaniÊ

Split, D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

flights from Zagreb and Dubrovnik to Athens and from Zagreb to Barcelona. In addition, we will have flights from Split to Belgrade, Dusseldorf and Berlin, and our airplanes will again connect two tourist pearls − Dubrovnik and Venice. Take a look through our travel magazine during the flight. I believe you will find that the texts we prepared for you are very interesting, and the photos quite attractive. We start this issue with an interview with the best water polo player in the world, Josip PaviÊ. Out of our continental cities, we present to you the city of Bjelovar, a people-friendly city. Of course, we will take you to the sea, to Split, a Mediterranean city with an open heart and a warm southern soul. When it comes to European cities, in this issue of our magazine you can read an article about The Hague, the Dutch metropolis, which is becoming a more and more interesting city break destination. We are honoured to have interviewed the German Ambassador in Croatia, Mr. Hans Peter Annen. In Croatia, he says, he feels at home. And apart from the articles in the magazine Croatia in front of you, interesting and useful information can be found on our website www.croatiaairlines.hr. We are pleased that our website was voted one of the top 10 websites in Croatia, in the category Tourism and Travel, and was thus awarded the prestigious title VIDI WEB TOP 10. Dear passengers, regardless of whether you are travelling as tourists or on business, we wish you many nice, pleasant and successful days in Croatia, and thank you for flying with Croatia Airlines.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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■ SADRÆAJ Razgovor: Josip PaviÊ

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JOSIP PAVIΔ, NAJBOLJI NA SVIJETU Olimpijsko zlato, europsko zlato, medalje sa svjetskih prvenstava, osvojena Svjetska liga, klupski uspjesi… Hrvatska ima najboljeg vaterpolista i vratara na svijetu… 14 Tradicija

HRVATSKA OBRTNI»KA KOMORA, SEBI NA »AST, NARODU NA SLAVU Hrvatska obrtniËka komora proπle je godine obiljeæila 160 godina postojanja. Ta vaæna gospodarska udruga živi na temeljima viπestoljetne tradicije zlatnih ruku majstora. 28 Zanati

ZLATNA POVIJEST ZAGREBA Na podruËju Zagreba zlatari se spominju veÊ u 14. stoljeÊu. Zlatarski obrt u glavnome hrvatskom gradu joπ odolijeva i pokuπava se prilagoditi novonastalim okolnostima kroz originalnost i inovaciju. 36 Razgled Zagreba

S PLAVIM BICIKLOM PO BIJELOM ZAGREBU Plava je boja Zagreba − gradske zastave, zagrebaËkih tramvaja, najpoznatijega nogometnog kluba i neba iznad grada. Plava je i boja zagrebaËkih bicikla… 40 Istra

RAJ ZA BICIKLISTE Pedaliranjem Parenzanom upoznajte iskonsku ljepotu istarskog poluotoka. 52 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

ODMORITE DUŠU U BJELOVARU Bjelovar ima sve što je potrebno za æivot suvremena Ëovjeka, a u odnosu na veÊe gradove nudi i osjeÊaj za ljepotu u svakodnevici. 66 Naša odredišta

GRAD DRUK»IJI OD DRUGIH Split - vjeËno mlad u svojim stoljeÊima starosti. Takav je Split danas, osobita i od svih drugaËija turistiËka metropola Jadrana. 94 Meridijani

(NE)POZNATI DEN HAAG Den Haag polako ali pouzdano mijenja javnu sliku o sebi i sve viπe postaje mjesto kreativne industrije i visoke razine turistiËke usluge. 108 Kultura

KLIN, KULTURNO ZBLIÆAVANJE HRVATSKE I NIZOZEMSKE UoËi pristupanja Hrvatske Europskoj uniji u Nizozemskoj izlazi antologija novije hrvatske pripovjedne proze. Knjiga je dio projekta Biblioteka KLIN (nizozemski akronim za Hrvatsku knjiæevnost u Nizozemskoj). 112 Fenomeni

THE ROLLING STONES − 50 GODINA KOTRLJANJA I JOŠ DALJE… Poznat je televizijski intervju iz 1964., u kojemu Mick Jagger prognozira da Êe Rolling Stonesi svirati joπ barem dvije godine... A za njima je 50 godina kotrljanja… 2

ProljeÊe/Spring 2013

www.croatiaairlines.com

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■ CONTENTS Interview: Josip PaviiÊ

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JOSIP PAVIΔ, THE BEST IN THE WORLD

The Olympic gold, the European gold, medals from world championships, the big win at the World League, his club successes… Croatia has the best water polo goalkeeper in the world… 14 Tradition

THE CROATIAN CHAMBER OF TRADES AND CRAFTS, TO OUR HONOUR, FOR THE GLORY OF OUR PEOPLE

The Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts celebrated its 160th anniversary last year. This important business association rests on the foundation of a centuries-old tradition of masters’ golden hands. 28 Crafts

GOLDEN HISTORY OF ZAGREB

Goldsmiths were mentioned in the region of Zagreb as early as the 14th century. The goldsmiths’ workshops still resist while trying to adjust to new conditions with originality and innovation. 36

Zagreb City Tours

WITH BLUE BIKE AROUND WHITE ZAGREB

Blue is the colour of Zagreb − the city flag, city trams, the most famous football club and the sky above the city. Blue is also the colour of Zagreb’s bikes… 40 Istria

CYCLISTS’ PARADISE

Pedal your way along Parenzana and get to know the natural beauty of the Istrian peninsula. 52 Inland Croatia

RESPITE FOR YOUR SOUL IN BJELOVAR

Bjelovar has everything necessary for modern man’s life, and in comparison to larger cities, it offers a sense of beauty in everyday life. 66 Our destinations

A CITY DIFFERENT FROM THE OTHERS

Split − centuries old, yet eternally young. This is the Split of today; an extraordinary Adriatic metropolis distinct from all the others. 94 Meridiens

THE UNKNOWN DEN HAAG

Slowly but surely Den Haag is changing its public image. It is slowly reinventing itself as a city bursting with creative industries and tourism services at the highest level. 108 Culture

KLIN, BRINGING THE CULTURES OF CROATIA AND THE NETHERLANDS TOGETHER

As Croatia prepares to join the European Union, an anthology of recent Croatian narrative prose is to be published in the Netherlands. The book is part of the project KLIN Book Series (the Dutch acronym for Croatian Literature in the Netherlands). 112 Phenomena

THE ROLLING STONES − 50 YEARS AND THEY KEEP ON ROLLIN’

In a famous TV interview in 1964, Mick Jagger predicted that the band would perform together for at least another two years… And yet, 50 years later they keep on rollin’… 4

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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■ RAZGOVOR JOSIP PAVIΔ

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Piπe/By Mate DeviÊ

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Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW JOSIP PAVIΔ ■

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Olimpijsko zlato, europsko zlato, medalje sa svjetskih prvenstava, osvojena Svjetska liga, klupski uspjesi - niπta ga nije promijenilo. Ostao je onaj isti Ëovjek, skroman i odan igri i obitelji, onaj djeËaËiÊ iz splitskog kvarta Brda, koji je u jednom trenu odluËio trenirati vaterpolo.

The Olympic gold, the European gold, medals from world championships, the big win at the World League, his club successes − none of this has changed him. He has remained the same person; modest and devoted to the game and his family, the same little boy from the Split Brdo neighbourhood who decided one day that he would train water polo. 8

ivot zaljubljenika u sport, a takvih je u Hrvatskoj valjda viπe nego igdje na svijetu, satkan je od uspjeha i poraza, od sreÊe i tuge, strepnje i olakπanja. No ima trenutaka kad se sve te slatke navijaËke muke isplate, trenutaka zbog kojih ste ponosni, i tjeraju vas da i dalje troπite grlo kad vaπi ljubimci, poglavito oni koji prezentiraju vaπu zemlju, izgaraju na sportskim boriliπtima. Dan kad je na naslovnicima tiskovina velikim, masnim slovima pisalo PaviÊ ∑ najbolji na svijetu, jedan je od tih dana, ponosa i zadovoljstva. Hrvatska ima najboljeg vaterpolista na svijetu u 2012. godini, najboljega vratara na svijetu, hobotnicu s tisuÊu ruku, kraj koje lopte prolaze teπko, ili nikako, ma koliko protivniËki πuteri bili snaæni i domiπljati. Zadovoljstvo je tim veÊe kad se zna da dvjestotinjak predstavnika nacionalnih vaterpolskih saveza, duænosnika krovne organizacije i sportskih novinara koji su birali, sve da je i htjelo, nije imalo kamo. Jer, brojke su neumoljive, poglavito ona da je na olimpijskom turniru u Londonu, za kojega se Hrvatska vaterpolska reprezentacija okitila olimpijskim zlatom, Josip PaviÊ imao 70,2 posto obrana, mnogo viπe od uobiËajenog prosjeka za vratare, otprilike 60 posto. Josip PaviÊ, vratar Mladosti i reprezentacije, odnio je laskavu titulu s 47,5 posto zasluæenih glasova, ostavivπi prvoga iza sebe kolegu iz reprezentacije, Mihu BoπkoviÊa. No koliko god obiËnog smrtnika takve titule mogle raspametiti, Josip PaviÊ Ëvrsto je na zemlji. Valjda i zbog toga nema u PaviÊa mnogo priËe, pogotovo ne o tome da je recesija sjela za vrat i vaterpolu. On ionako govori u bazenu kad raskrili ruke, tjerajuÊi protivnike u oËaj. Tako Êe, nema sumnje, biti i u srpnju, na utakmicama Svjetskog prvenstva u Barceloni. Tko zna, moæda se PaviÊu pritom obistini æelja da ga u Barcelonu vozi prijatelj, kapetan Tamir EminefendiÊ, makar u rezultat ne treba sumnjati ni ako u kokpitu bude koji drugi od pilota, Ëiji teæak i odgovoran posao PaviÊ, kako kaæe, osobito poπtuje. ■ Kako se postaje najbolji vaterpolist na svijetu? Kako je sve poËelo i zaπto baπ vratar, tim viπe πto u vratare, po pravilu, djeca idu teπka srca? − PoËelo je u treÊem razredu osnovne πkole. Tada je splitski Jadran bio europski prvak, pa su mnogi iz ekipe u kvartu poπli na vaterpolo. A na vrata su me odmah postavili, jer bio sam izrazito mrπav i dugih ruku. ■ Vaterpolo je jedan od fiziËki najzahtjevnijih sportova. Je li za mladenaπtva bilo kakvih dilema - nastaviti s treningom, ili sve pustiti? Tko je bio Vaπ vaterpolski uzor?

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∑ Kad si mlad, niπta nije teπko. Mi bi ostajali na bazenu po cijeli dan i vaterpolo mi je jednostavno uπao u krv. A kad je tako, povratka i nije bilo. Iskreno, nikad nisam ni pomiπljao prestati. Uzori? Cijela tadaπnja momËad Jadrana te, meni osobno, pokojni Jesús Rollán, legendarni vratar πpanjolske reprezentacije. Rollan ne samo da je svojedobno bio najbolji vratar na svijetu, nego je sve svoje obrane izrazito emotivno proslavljao, πto mi se kao mladom igraËu osobito svidjelo. ■ Prva momËad u dobi od 17 godina, pet godina na vratima Jadrana, a onda reprezentacija i selidba u Mladost, Ëini mi se 2005. godine. SpliÊanin u Zagrebu, jedan od mnogih. Kako je tekla prilagodba, kako ste od deËka sa splitskih Brda stigli do titule najboljeg sportaπa Zagreba? ∑ Bilo je nostalgije u poËetku, ali i u klubu i u gradu prihvatili su me sjajno, tako da veÊih problema nije bilo. Jest, obitelj i prijatelji uvijek nedostaju, ali i u Zagrebu sam upoznao mnogo divnih ljudi. Uistinu se nemam na πto poæaliti. ■ Sve πto se poslije dolaska u Zagreb dogaalo impresivan je niz uspjeha. Ima li neka utakmica, neki uspjeh koji se pamti? ∑ ©to se kluba tiËe, u najljepπem mi je sjeÊanju utakmica protiv Partizana, kad nam je trener bio veliki Ozren BonaËiÊ. Tko moæe zaboraviti prepune tribine i naπu pobjedu, i to poslije peteraca? Od reprezentativnih uspjeha tu je, dakako, zlato s OI u Londonu. ■ Vratari su na vratima sami, ona posljednja linija obrane, no vi ste i nakon zlata u Londonu isticali prije svega snagu hrvatskog kolektiva. Kakva je to kemija koja veæe ovu generaciju vaterpolista, zbog Ëega ste dobro druπtvo, prije svega? ∑ Meu nama je zaista posljednjih godina vrhunska kemija, i to je ono πto nas nosi do uspjeha. Ostali smo prava klapa i poslije loπijih rezultata i zato, kad to god mogu, istiËem: Ëast je biti dio ovakve reprezentacije! Zbog toga, zbog tog duha zajedniπtva, i svaki je uspjeh joπ slai! ■ No, tko je taj dobar reprezentativni duh? Je li to, recimo, fizioterapeut Pero Kuterovac, ili moæda i vi, kad se zna da je ono puπtanje brkova u svih reprezentativaca za Olimpijskih igara u Pekingu bila baπ vaπa ideja? ∑ Teπko je to opisati, tu atmosferu. To bi mogli shvatiti tek kad bi nakratko postali dio naπe ekipe. Evo, upravo snimaju dokumentaran film o vaterpolistima i tim koji ga radi oduπevljen je baπ tom atmosferom koja vlada meu nama. Profesor Kuterovac zacijelo je veliki motivator, onaj koji nas motivira za rad i kad nismo od volje. A za πalu u slobodno vrijeme spremni

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smo svi! Tako bræe prolazi vrijeme. Hm, moæda Paulo ObradoviÊ sve to predvodi!? Ma, svi su uvijek spremni kako na πalu na tui, tako i na svoj raËun! A brkovi!? Na æalost, iz Pekinga nas se sjeÊaju samo po tome. Moæda bi bilo bolje da nas se sjeÊaju po zlatu iz Londona. ■ Imaju li pravo oni koji tvrde da su vratari neka osobita vrsta, o kojemu je god sportu rijeË? Imate li i vi neke svoje male rituale prije utakmice, onako kako ih je, primjerice, prije svojih meËeva imao Goran IvaniπeviÊ? ∑ Imao sam i ja mali milijun tih rituala, toliko da sam se u njima poËeo gubiti. Bilo je svega, od naËina skakanja u bazen, do vezanja kapice na uvijek isti naËin. Toliko je toga bilo da sam na kraju od svega odustao. I ako me sada pitate, mogu vam iz iskustva reÊi kako svi ti rituali ipak ne utjeËu na rezultat. ■ Jesu li sportaπi uistinu ambasadori svoje zemlje, kako to volimo govoriti, a zatim preËesto i prebrzo te iste sportaπe zaboravimo kad ih treba nagraditi za njihove uspjehe. ∑ Dakako, mislim kako su sportaπi jedni od ponajveÊih ambasadora Hrvatske u svijetu. U to se nanovo uvjerimo kad god odemo u inozemstvo, makar se to moæda kod nas, kod kuÊe, i ne vidi previπe. Viπe je vrijedio Goran (Goran IvaniπeviÊ, nap.a.) devedesetih, nego bilo koja druga turistiËka promidæba. I, dakako, uspjeπni bi sportaπi trebali i morali biti bolje nagraeni za svoje uspjehe. ■ Ali, vaterpolo, na æalost, nije ni nogomet, ni tenis. Makar ste vaterpolski pandan ponajboljim svjetskim nogometaπima, primanja su mnogo niæa. Svjetski je vaterpolo na svojevrsnoj prekretnici. Kakva je, na kraju, buduÊnost toga sporta? ∑ Uvjeren sam da je buduÊnost vaterpola svijetla, kako u nas, tako i u inozemstvu, i nadam se da Êu se joπ dugo baviti tim sportom. Bude li to moguÊe u Hrvatskoj, bilo bi super, makar je i u inozemstvu katkad lijepo. ■ No, vidim da Vam se ne æuri otiÊi, makar kao prvi svjetski vratar i te kako træiπno vrijedite. »ime vas je to Hrvatska vezala uza sebe? ∑ Uz Hrvatsku me vezala obitelj. Teπko bi mi bilo æivjeti odvojeno od njih, ali budem li morao... Mnogo mi je draæe i mnogo ljepπe doma. Teπko mi padnu i ona dva, tri ljetna mjeseca kad smo odvojeni, a kamoli tako cijelu godinu. Zato, hvala, ali zasad ∑ ne, hvala! ■ Zlu ne trebalo, tu je i diploma ekonomskog fakulteta, koji ste uredno zavrπili uza sve sportske obveze. ∑ U vaterpolu uvijek ima mnogo obrazovanih ljudi i taj Êe se trend i dalje nastaviti. Karijera sportaπa traje kratko, toga su svi svjesni,

baπ kao i toga da se od vaterpola ne moæe osigurati egzistencija do kraja æivota. Stoga je fakultet logiËan izbor. ■ Kakav je osjeÊaj biti najbolji na svijetu, i to po ocjeni ljudi iznutra, onih koji se bave vaterpolom? Godi li Vam popularnost? ∑ Lijep je osjeÊaj, bez neke laæne skromnosti, a joπ je ljepπi kad ti uz to ostanu mir i privatnost. ■ Uvelike cijenite privatnost, poπtujete obitelj. Supruga Nera, sin Ivan i kÊerkica Ena. Ivan, kaæu, veÊ sada pokazuje zanimanje za vaπ posao. Raste li to neki novi vratar od formata? ∑ Premalen je on joπ, a izabrat Êe ono πto on bude htio, volio bih da bude u sportu, ali izbor Êe biti samo njegov. ■ Svjetsko prvenstvo u Barceloni Ëini se novim velikim izazovom. Selektor je novi, ali vratar je stari, i to najbolji πto ga svijet ima. ∑ Za Barcelonu Êemo biti spremni, izbornik je izvanredan, kao i momËad, i tamo idemo po novu medalju! ■ Pouzdani izvori t vrde da ste i izvrstan pjevaË, odan opusu legendarnoga hrvatskog pjevaËa Miπe KovaËa. Je li zaista tako, zaπto Miπo i koja vam je pjesma moæda i ponajviπe pri srcu? ∑ Miπo je jedan jedini, neponovljiv, i sve su njegove pjesme izvrsne. Ali pjesma Ostala si uvijek ista za nijansu je ljepπa od drugih pjesama. ■ he life of a sports aficionado, of whom there are more in Croatia than possibly anywhere else in the world, is made of successes and failures, of happiness and sorrow, and of apprehension and relief. But there are those moments in a fan’s life when all those sweet sufferings pay off; moments that make them proud and inspire them to go on cheering very loudly, risking a seriously sore throat, when their favourite stars, especially those who represent their country, are burning up the field. The day when the bold headline on the front page of the newspaper read PaviÊ − The Best in the World was one of those days of pride and joy. Croatia had the best water polo player in the world for the year 2012; the best goalkeeper in the world, an octopus with a thousand hands that the ball hardly ever passes, or not at all, regardless of how strong and skilful the opposition team’s shooters may be. The satisfaction is all the greater knowing that some two hundred representatives of national water polo associations, umbrella organization officials and sports journalists who were involved in the selection process, even if they had wanted to, had nowhere

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else to look. The fi gures were simply too conspicuous, especially the fact that during the London Olympic Games, from which the Croatian national team brought home a gold medal, Josip PaviÊ recorded an impressive 70.2 save percentage, much more than the average for a water polo goalkeeper, which is approximately 60 percent. Josip PaviÊ, the goalkeeper of Mladost and the national team, won the coveted title with 47.5 percent of the well deserved votes, leaving behind his colleague from the national team Miho BoπkoviÊ. However, as overwhelming such titles may be for a mere mortal, Josip PaviÊ has both his legs firmly on the ground. This is perhaps the reason why PaviÊ is a man of few words, especially regarding the recession hitting water polo so hard. He speaks loudest in the swimming pool when he spreads his arms, forcing his opponents into despair. There is no doubt that we will see another rerun of that in July, during the World Championship in Barcelona. Who knows, PaviÊ may have his wish come true on that occasion and have his friend, captain Tamir EminefendiÊ, fly him to Barcelona. The final result, however, will not be at stake even if the cockpit is manned by any other pilot, whose hard and demanding job is especially respected by PaviÊ. ■ How does one become the best water polo player in the world? How did it all start, and how did you become a goalkeeper given the fact that it is not usually a child’s favourite position on the team? − It all started in the third grade of elementary school. The team Jadran of Split became the European champion, so many of the boys from the neighbourhood started training water polo. They put me in the goal straight away because I was very skinny and had very long arms. ■ In terms of physical challenges, water polo is one of the most demanding sports. Did you have any dilemmas as a young man − whether to continue with training or give up? Who was your water polo role model? − When you are young, nothing is really difficult. We sometimes spent entire days at the swimming pool, and water polo simply entered my blood stream. And given the way things were, there was no turning back. To be honest, quitting was never an option. Role models? My role models were the entire Jadran team, but especially the late Jesús Rollán, the legendary goalie for the Spanish national team. Not only was he the best goalkeeper in the world in his time, but he also celebrated all of his victories very emotionally, and as a young player I particularly liked that. CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ At the age of 17, you made it to the first team; you spent fi ve years in Jadran’s goal, and then you joined the national team and transferred to Mladost, in 2005 I believe. You were born and raised in Split, and then you found yourself in Zagreb, just one of the many. Was it easy to adapt or not? How did you get from being a young lad from Split’s Brdo to having the title of the best athlete in Zagreb? − I was nostalgic at first, but both the club and the city received me with open arms, so there were no major issues. Of course you always miss your family and friends, but I met a lot of wonderful people in Zagreb. I really cannot complain. ■ Everything that happened to you after your arrival in Zagreb constitutes an impressive series of successes. Is there a match or a success that stands out? − My fondest memories concerning the club are of the game against Partizan, when the great Ozren BonaËiÊ was our coach. Who could ever forget the fully packed stands and our victory, after the five meter penalty shots? Among the successes with the national team, I would obviously choose winning the Olympic gold medal in London. ■ Goalkeepers are alone in the goal; the last line of defence. However, after having won the gold in London, you kept emphasizing, above all, the collective strength of the Croatian team. Can you tell us something about the chemistry that binds this generation of water polo players together? What makes you a good team? − Over the past few years, there has indeed been a superb chemistry among us, something that simply carries us to success. The feeling of camaraderie and kinship was there even when the results were not so good, which is why I take every opportunity to say: it is an honour to be a member of such a team! Because of that, because of that spirit of unity, every success is even sweeter! ■ Still, who is that good genie of the national team? Is it, for example, the physiotherapist Pero Kuterovac, or perhaps you? After all, all the team members followed your example and grew moustaches during the Olympic Games in Beijing. − It is very difficult to describe this atmosphere. You would be able to understand it only if you became a member of our team, at least for a short while. They are currently shooting a documentary about water polo players, and the film crew is simply delighted with the atmosphere that prevails among us. Professor Kuterovac is certainly a big motivator, one who can motivate us to work even when we are not too keen. At 10

the same time, we are all ready to crack jokes during breaks. Time passes more quickly that way. Hm, Paulo ObradoviÊ may also be considered the ringleader. Everybody is always ready to crack a joke at other people’s expense, as well as at their own. And the moustache thing? Unfortunately, when it comes to Beijing, this is what most people remember us for. It would be much better if they remembered us for the gold medal in London. ■ There are those who claim that goalkeepers are a special breed, in any sport. Are they right? Do you have your little rituals before the game, similar to what Goran IvaniπeviÊ did before every match? − I did have a zillion such rituals, as a matter of fact so many that I got lost in them. There were all sorts of things: the way I jumped into the pool, or the way I tied my cap, always in the same way. There was so much of it that I finally gave up on everything. And if you ask me now, I can tell you from experience that none of those rituals have that much to do with the final score. ■ Are athletes really their country’s ambassadors, as we like to say? And if they are, how come we forget them too often and too quickly when they need to be rewarded for their successes? − Obviously, I think that athletes are one of the greatest ambassadors of Croatia in the world. Every time we travel abroad, we see it for ourselves, although at home, this may not be as prominent. What Goran (Goran IvaniπeviÊ) did in the 90s was worth more than any other kind of tourism advertising. And yes, successful athletes should be more generously rewarded for their successes. ■ Unfortunately, water polo is neither football nor tennis. Although you are on a par with the best footballers in the world, you certainly make much less money. International water polo is at a crossroads of sorts. What, in your view, is the future of this sport? − I am sure that the future of water polo is bright, both in Croatia and abroad, and I hope to be able to continue playing for a long time. It would be nice if I could do it in Croatia, but sometimes living and competing abroad is also nice. ■ I see you are in no haste to leave, although you are a sought after commodity as the best goalkeeper in the world? What ties you to Croatia? − It is my family that ties me to Croatia. Life without them would be difficult, if I ever had to do it... I am much happier at home; even the two or three summer months when we are apart are

difficult to bear, let alone an entire year. That is why I say, thank you but no thank you − at least for now! ■ If push comes to shove, you have your economics degree which you obtained while playing water polo professionally. − There are a lot of educated people in water polo, and the trend is bound to continue. An athlete’s career is short, everybody is aware of that, as well as the fact that water polo is not a lucrative profession, and that it cannot supply you with lifetime financial security. Therefore, a university degree is a logical alternative. ■ How does it feel to be voted the best in the world by insiders; water polo professionals themselves? Does popularity suit you? − I must say, without any false modesty, that it feels good, but what feels even better is when you can keep your peace and privacy. ■ You do value your privacy, and you cherish your family; your wife Nera, your son Ivan and daughter Ena. They say that Ivan is already showing interest in your work. Is he a new great goalkeeper in the making? − He is still too young. When the time comes, he will decide what he wants. I would like to see him in sports, but the choice will be only his. ■ The World Championship in Barcelona seems like a new big challenge. The team selector is new, but the goalkeeper is old and the best in the world. − We will be ready for Barcelona; the selector is excellent, and so is the team. We will go there to win a new medal! ■ We have it on good authority that you are an excellent singer, and that you are a big fan of the legendary Croatian singer Miπo KovaË. Is it true? Why Miπo and which of his songs is closest to your heart? −Miπo is one of a kind, unique, and all of his songs are excellent. However, Ostala si uvijek ista (You have not changed) is a tad more beautiful than the others. ■

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations

■ stalne / regular ■ sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

............................................ Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. 12

ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

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A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe tu ri stiË ko izne na e nje te hit-odre di πte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2011. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 11,455.677 turista, od kojih je 87 posto stranih (9,926.674).

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 60,000.000 noÊenja (60,138. 241 noÊenje), a od toga 91 posto noÊenja ostvarili su strani turisti (57, 343.178). Tradicionalno su najbrojniji gosti Nijemci (22,8%), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,7%), Italije (9,1%), Austrije (8,8%), »eπke (8,0%), Poljske (5,7%), SlovaËke (4,2%), Nizozemske (4,1%), Rusije (2,7%), Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva (2,3%), πto je ukupno 79,4 posto. Turisti iz ostalih zemalja ostvarili su 20,6 posto. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.5 million tourists (11,455,677 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2011, of whom 87% were foreign tourists (9,926,674 foreign tourists). Tourists realized about 60 million overnight stays (60,138,241 overnights) in commercial accommodation facilities, of which 91% of the overnights were realized by foreign tourists (57,343,178 foreign tourist overnights). Traditionally, the largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22.8%), and they were followed by guests from Slovenia (11.7%), Italy (9.1%), Austria (8.8%), the Czech Republic (8.0%), Poland (5.7%), Slovakia (4.2%), the

Netherlands (4.1%), Russia (2.7%), and the United Kingdom (2.3%), which comes to a total of 79.4%. Tourists from other countries accounted for 20.6% of the overnights. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna. The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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TRADICIJA TRADITION ■

Piše/By Davorka Vukov Colić

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ i/and Arhiva HOK-a/CCTC Archive

Hrvatska obrtniËka komora, najznaËajnija gospodarska asocijacija s viπe od 88.000 Ëlanova, temelji se na viπestoljetnoj tradiciji zlatnih ruku majstora. Davnih godina, pa i stoljeÊa, nestali su Ëavlari, iglari, gumbaπi, pojasari, Ëizmari, uæari, krasnopisci i noæari, a danas su ih zamijenili ugostitelji, taksisti i informatiËari… The Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts celebrates its 160th anniversary this year. The most important business association, with more than 88,000 members, rests on the foundation of a centuries-old tradition of masters’ golden hands. The nail makers, needle makers, button makers, belt makers, boot makers, rope makers, calligraphers and cutlers all disappeared years ago, if not centuries. Today they have been replaced by restaurateurs, taxi drivers and IT professionals.

ogledate li zgradu u Ilici broj 49, jednu od najviπih u toj staroj zagrebaËkoj ulici, najprije Êete ugledati tri velika friza i prelijepu æeljeznu ogradu balkona, reljefe izvedene u obliku simbola razliËitih obrta. Ispod svega natpis je Matica hrvatskih obrtnika. Sebi na Ëast, svome narodu na slavu, piπe na spomen-obiljeæju zgrade proËiπÊena

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modernizma poznatoga zagrebaËkog arhitekta Aleksandra Freudenreicha, sagraene 1938. godine zajedniËkim snagama tadaπnjeg Saveza hrvatskih obrtnika i Zanatske komore. Danas je to sjediπte Hrvatske obrtniËke komore nastale 1852. godine, najznaËajnije gospodarske asocijacije s viπe od 88.000 Ëlanova i gotovo Ëetvrtinom zaposlenih u Hrvatskoj. Na

svakom koraku toga reprezentativnog prostora neumorne ruke obrtnika i zanatlija ostavile su dokaze vrhunskih vjeπtina. Od starih vitraja i intarzija, do æeljeznih lustera i freske Mladena Veæe iz 1960. u glavnoj dvorani, sve je u znaku slika iz æivota obrtnika i simbola zanata. Mnogi su zanati s vremenom nestajali, a razvijali se neki drugi, no tako je uvijek bilo u 160 godina CROATIA AIRLINES

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dugoj povijesti Hrvatske obrtniËke komore i tradiciji hrvatskog obrtniπtva staroj vjekovima. Godine 1368. bilo je na GriËu (zagrebaËki Gornji grad, nap.a.) 87 raznih majstora, medju svima 41 postolar, 11 kovaËa, toliko mesara i 8 ribara, koji sviedoËe, da se mnogo mesa troπilo odnosno dobro æivjelo. Bila su u varoπi i 4 slikara i 3 zlatara i toliko sviraËa, piπe u knjizi Stari Zagreb prirodoslovac i putopisac Dragutin Hirc na prijelazu proπloga stoljeÊa. Nazivi ulica poput MesniËke i TkalËiÊeve govore o Zagrebu kao srediπtu zanatstva, kao πto to potvruju i prezimena LonËar, ©oπtariÊ (πuster, postolar), Sedlar, Rogoz, Sapunar, KoæariÊ ili Zlatar. Od nekadaπnjih mnogobrojnih trgovina zagrebaËkih obrtnika, u prolazu zgrade Matice opstao je joπ fotograf i krznar, a jedan od posljednjih kiπobranara u Hrvatskoj slavi stotinu godina postojanja. Uselio se licitar, cvjeÊar i modni salon s tradicijskom odjeÊom, a u neposrednoj blizini staklarnica, postolar, te brusionica noæeva i πkara joπ odolijevaju naletu industrijalizacije i vremena. Joπ donedavna Ilica je bila puna cimera kojim su u toj trgovaËkoj æili kucavici zagrebaËki obrtnici reklamirali svoje trgovine, iza kojih su se, u dvoriπtima, po pravilu nalazile i radionice, a danas su ih zamijenile prodavaonice globalnih trgovaËkih lanaca. Davnih godina, pa i stoljeÊa, nestali su Ëavlari, iglari, gumbaπi, pojasari, Ëiæmari, uæari, krasnopisci i noæari, a danas su ih zamijenili ugostitelji, taksisti i informatiËari. Sve njih zajedno, od urara i raËunovodstvenih servisa do izraivaËa web stranica, pod istim krovom sjedinjuje Hrvatska obrtniËka komora, struËna poslovna organizacija radi promicanja, usklaivanja i zastupanja zajedniËkih interesa obrtniπtva. Uz Komoru djeluje dvadeset podruËnih komora i 116 udruæenja obrtnika, a utemeljeni su cehovi, kao oblici strukovnog organiziranja. Komora potiËe nastupanje obrtnika na mnogim sajmovima u zemlji i inozemstvu, Savjetodavna sluæba Ëlanovima pruæa pravne, financijske i tehniËko-tehnoloπke savjete, a na pragu ulaska u Europsku uniju stasala je u instituciju koja u partnerskom odnosu sa zakonodavnom i izvrπnom vlaπÊu πtiti sve Ëlanove, male i velike obrtnike, zastupajuÊi njihove interese. A obrtnici su joπ prije πest-sedam stoljeÊa svoje interese πtitili udruæivanjem u bratovπtine, poslije u cehove, a 1852. osnovali su trgovaËko-obrtniËke komore u Zagrebu, Rijeci i Osijeku. Godine 1906. u Zagrebu je odræan sveobrtniËki Sabor, na kojemu je donesena odluka o osnivanju Saveza udruæenja hrvatskih obrtnika, a sljedeÊe odræana OsnivaËka skupπtina. Te je godine samo Zagreb imao 2726 obrtnika, 303 postolara, 176 krojaËa, 141 stolara, 105 brijaËa. 20

Do Drugoga svjetskog rata hrvatski su obrtnici sagradili Obrtni dom na zagrebaËkome MaæuraniÊevu trgu, odmah pokraj njega TrgovaËko-obrtni muzej (danaπnji Etnografski muzej) i Kraljevsku zemaljsku obrtnu πkolu, danaπnju zgradu ©kole primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna. Osnivali su kulturna druπtva, organizirali socijalnu i humanitarnu pomoÊ zbog brige za stare i bolesne Ëlanove, pa i bankarske ustanove, meu kojima su se stari ZagrepËani joπ dugo sjeÊali Hrvatskog radiπe. Kraj 19. i poËetak 20. stoljeÊa bila su zlatna vremena hrvatskog obrtniπtva, kada se iπlo uz bok beËkim majstorima, a Obrtna πkola bila jedna od najstarijih u Hrvatskoj. Pa i u europskim okvirima, a na njezinu Ëelu punih je 32 godine bio poznati arhitekt Hermann Bollé, graditelj i voditelj obnove zagrebaËke katedrale. Godine 1923. Zagreb je imao 108.000 stanovnika, a broj obrtniËkih radionica popeo se na 3350. Svakoga studenoga slavio se Dan obrtnika. UoËi Drugoga svjetskog rata 1937., u vrijeme dovrπenja zgrade Matice hrvatskih obrtnika, zabiljeæeno je Ëak 5064 obrtniËkih radionica. Ali dolaskom socijalistiËkih vremena nakon rata, Savezu je 1947. zabranjen rad i oduzeta imovina, meu ostalim velebna zgrada u Ilici 49. OpÊim zakonom o zanatstvu, mali privatni obrtnici izgurani su na margine gospodarskog æivota, te se u oËajniËkoj borbi za opstanak tek πezdesetih godina poËinju organizirati preko klubova i udruæenja graana. Do 1974. po opÊinama su osnovana 64 udruæenja, ali i tada su to neki joπ tumaËili kao pokuπaj obnove kapitalizma. Godine 1980. osnivaju Savez udruæenja hrvatskih obrtnika, ali tek uspostavom samostalne i neovisne Republike Hrvatske, otvorene su zakonske moguÊnosti za rad i poduzetniπtvo, πto se oËitovalo maksimalnom liberalizacijom otvaranja obrtniËkih i drugih radionica, zapoπljavanjem radnika, moguÊnoπÊu obavljanja razliËitih djelatnosti svega onoga πto se prije nije moglo ni sanjati. Obnoviteljska skupπtina Hrvatske obrtniËke komore odræana je 1994., Ëime joj se poslije viπe desetljeÊa vratilo znaËenje i vaænost. Otvaranjem meunarodnog ureda u Bruxellesu, u zgradi sjediπta Europske udruge obrtnika, malih i srednjih poduzetnika, Komora je napravila znaËajan korak πto se tiËe promicanja suradnje hrvatskih obrtnika s træiπtem Europske unije. Mnogi od nas obrtniπtvo uglavnom doæivljavaju kao bavljenje starim, tradicionalnim zanatima, koje briπe vrijeme, no u Komori ga definiraju kao male proizvodne ili usluæne, najËeπÊe obiteljske djelatnosti, ruËne proizvodnje, nerijetko s tradicijom i Ëesto s prijenosom iz generacije u generaciju. »ak pedeset posto obrtnika nema ni jednoga zaposlenoga, pa sve, od

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proizvodnje ili usluge, do voenja financija, obavlja jedna osoba. U kontinentalnom dijelu Hrvatske osobito se njeguju tradicijski i umjetniËki obrti, te proizvodni (hrana, namjeπtaj, obrada metala), a u obalnom dijelu ugostiteljstvo, hotelijerstvo (mali obiteljski butik hoteli, seoski turizam), proizvodnja maslinova ulja, vina, prπuta, meda, uzgoj πkoljki, ribarstvo. ObilazeÊi sajmove, festivale i svakakva slavlja, od Bele nedelje - sajma mladog vina u Kastvu ponad Rijeke - do Sajma starih zanata i obiËaja u Bijelom Brdu pokraj Erduta, naiÊi Êete na tokare, baËvare, koæare, postolare, tkalje, pletilje, pekare, licitare, mediËare - sve one majstore koji starim alatima i u odjeÊi svoga vremena posjetiocima nastoje pribliæiti i oæivjeti tradicijske i umjetniËke zanate kao turistiËku atrakciju i æivi podsjetnik na to kako se nekada æivjelo i radilo. Na mnogima od tih proizvoda zapazit Êete poseban znak koji upozorava da je rijeË o tradicijskome, odnosno umjetniËkome, autohtonom proizvodu izraenome rukom. Dodjeljuje ga Hrvatska obrtniËka komora, Ëime æeli poticati na Ëuvanje, njegovanje i prepoznavanje obiljeæja tradicijske, odnosno umjetniËke kulture. Sustavi koje je od 2000. uspostavila Komora jesu i Sud Ëasti (do tada je od 1989. bio zajedniËki s Hrvatskom gospodarskom komorom)

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i Centar za mirenje. Sud Ëasti sastoji se od predstavnika potroπaËa, obrtnika i nezavisnih pravnih struËnjaka, koji rade na transparentan naËin i besplatno za stranke, brinuÊi se o poslovnome moralu i pravilima struke. To je mjesto na koje se potroπaË moæe obratiti u sluËaju spora s obrtnikom, a moæe to uËiniti na podruËju cijele Hrvatske, bilo u glavnom zagrebaËkom sjediπtu, bilo u podruænicama Hrvatske obrtniËke komore u sjediπtima æupanija ili najbliæim obrtniËkim udruæenjima. Centar za mirenje pak rjeπava poslovne sporove obrtnika i njihovih poslovnih partnera, Ëime se izbjegavaju dugotrajni sudski sporovi. Tako se, kako kaæe tajnica Suda Ëasti Suzana Kolesar, potiËe na druπtveno odgovorno poslovanje, dobre poslovne obiËaje i poπtivanje poslovnog morala. U promicanju kvalitete rada, Komora svojim uglednim i Ëasnim Ëlanovima dodjeljuje godiπnja priznanja Zlatne ruke (statuu akademskog kipara Hrvoja LjubiÊa) za osobita poslovna dostignuÊa u obrtu i zasluge u razvoju i promicanju obrtniπtva i malog poduzetniπtva. Osim Ëlanova, to najviπe strukovno priznanje dobivaju i druge fiziËke i pravne osobe, koje su svojim djelovanjem znaËajno pridonijele razvoju obrtniπtva u Hrvatskoj.

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No, bez obrazovanja nema ni kvalitete rada, ni poslovnih dostignuÊa. U posljednje tri godine kroz program obrazovanja za obrtniËka zanimanja proπlo je gotovo 28.000 uËenika, ali i nadalje nedostaje mesara, tesara, alatniËara, tokara, zidara, bravara, dimnjaËara, krovopokrivaËa, limara, stolara, fasadera, graditelja drvenih i metalnih brodova, graditelja orgulja, kovaËa... UnatoË poplavi automobila, zaËudo, nedostaje i autolakirera. Æelim biti majstor, poruËuju iz Komore tom promidæbenom akcijom kojom svake godine nastoje pridobiti mlade da se odluËe za obrtniËka, nerijetko vrlo unosna zanimanja. Odjel za obrazovanje pri Komori u suradnji s obrtniËkim πkolama i nadleænim ministarstvima skrbi i o licenciranju obrta, upisima uËenika, praktiËnom dijelu naukovanja, organizaciji i provoenju kontrolnih i pomoÊniËkih ispita, te provedbi majstorskih ispita. Majstorska se zvanja, naime, stjeËu polaganjem dræavno priznatih ispita, a polaæu se za zvanja s liste vezanih obrta, Ëije programe donosi ministar nadleæan za obrtniπtvo. Tako majstorska zvanja, izmeu ostalih, moæe steÊi ljevaË, dimnjaËar, fotograf, obuÊar, brodski mehaniËar, slastiËar, puπkar, graditelj orgulja, glazbalar, graditelj brodova, krojaË muπke odjeÊe, klobuËar, kotlar, kao i kuhar i natkonobar. A uz glavnu cestu od Zagreba prema Sljemenu naiÊi Êete na restoran Stari Puntijar. Nastao je prije viπe od 160 godina, nekako u isto vrijeme kad je formirana Hrvatska obrtniËka komora. Iz naraπtaja u naraπtaj, u zlatna, kao i πkrta vremena, odræavala ga je ista obitelj. U ambijentu punome starog oruæja, slika, stropnih svijeÊnjaka i lovaËkih trofeja, ovdje sve miriπe na tradiciju i prohujalo doba. U sklopu objekta vlasnik je odnedavna otvorio i mali muzej starih

kuharica i pribora za spravljanje i posluæivanje hrane, a u svom jelovniku nudi neka stara hrvatska jela. Stari Puntijar jedan je od restorana koji sudjeluje u projektu brendiranja autohtone hrvatske kuhinje, kojim Komora preko Ceha ugostitelja i turistiËkih djelatnika, zajedno s Ministarstvom turizma, æeli naglasiti vaænost naπe kulinarske baπtine, potaknuti πirenje nacionalne gastronomske ponude, autohtonih jelovnika i koriπtenje izvornih domaÊih namirnica. Kad ubuduÊe na jelovnicima naiete na znak autohtona hrvatska kuhinja, znat Êete da je rijeË o struËno potvrenome, doista provjerenome, izvornom jelu s domaÊih prostora. I kakva je buduÊnost obrtniπtva u globaliziranom svijetu masovne proizvodnje, u kojemu su zlatne ruke majstora cijenjene, ali i skupe u odnosu na jeftinu masovnu produkciju? ∑ Obrtniπtvo ima buduÊnost − kaæe predsjednik Komore Dragutin Ranogajec − ali obrtnici moraju biti svjesni da samo tehnoloπkom prilagodbom, prihvaÊanjem novih znanja i pravodobnim informacijama mogu konkurirati na EU træiπtu. Nekim djelatnostima, kao πto su proizvodne, zacijelo Êe biti teæe, ali mnogi usluæni obrti realno neÊe imati inozemnu konkurenciju. Treba saËuvati tradicijske i umjetniËke obrte koji nisu træiπno konkurentni, ali predstavljaju naπe nacionalno i kulturno naslijee. n f you take a look at the building in Ilica 49, one of the tallest in the old Zagreb street, the first things that will catch your eye are three large friezes and beautiful iron balcony railings, as well as reliefs done in the form of symbols of various trades. Below all of this is a signboard with the inscription: Headquarters of Croatian Craftsmen. To own honour,

I

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for the glory of our people is written on the memorial plaque on the building designed by the famous Zagreb architect Alexandar Freudenreich in a purified modernist style. The building was built in 1938 by the joint forces of the then Union of Croatian Craftsmen Association and the Chamber of Trades. Today it is the seat of the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts which was formed in 1852. It is the most important business association, with more than 88,000 members and accounting for almost a quarter of those in employment in Croatia. At every step of the representative space, the tireless hands of craftsmen and tradesmen have left evidence of their superior skills. From the old stained-glass windows and inlays, to the iron chandeliers and frescoes in the main hall made by Mladen Veæa in 1960, everything was inspired by the lives of craftsmen and the symbols of trade. Many trades have disappeared over time and others have developed, but it has always been that way throughout the 160 year long history of the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts and the centuries old tradition of Croatian craftsmanship. In 1368 there were 87 different craftsmen on GriË (Zagreb’s Upper Town, the author’s note), among them were 41 shoemakers, 11 blacksmiths, 11 butchers and 8 fishermen, who were witness to the fact that a lot of meat was eaten, meaning people lived well. In town there were also 4 painters and 3 jewellers, and the same number of pipers, as written by naturalist and travel writer Dragutin Hirc in his book Stari (Old) Zagreb at the turn of last

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century. The street names like MesniËka (from meat) and TkalËiÊeva (from weavers) speak of Zagreb as a craft centre, as do the surnames LonËar (potter), ©oπtariÊ (shoemaker), Sedlar (saddle maker), Rogoz (rush basket maker), Sapunar (soap maker), KoæariÊ (leather tanner) or Zlatar (goldsmith). Out of the many former crafts shops in Zagreb, a photographer and furrier have survived in the passageway of the Matica building and one of the last umbrella makers in Croatia is celebrating one hundred years of existence. A licitar maker, florist and fashion boutique with traditional clothing have moved in, and a glass cutter and frame maker and shoemaker, and a grinder for knives and scissors are in close proximity and still resist the onset of industrialization and time. Not such a long time ago, Ilica Street was full of colourful shop signs by which craftsmen advertised their businesses in that main commercial artery of Zagreb dealers. Their workshops were typically located in the courtyards behind the shops, but today they have been replaced by the stores of global retail chains. Nail makers, needle makers, button makers, belt makers, boot makers, rope makers, calligraphers and cutlers all disappeared years ago, if not centuries. Today they have been replaced by restaurateurs, taxi drivers and IT professionals. All of them together, from the watchmaker and accounting services to the web site designers, are incorporated under the same umbrella organization of the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts, a professional business organization whose aim is to promote, coor-

dinate and represent the common interests of craftsmen. Along with the Chamber there are twenty regional associations in operation and 116 craftsmen associations, as well as guilds which have been established as forms of professional organizations. The Chamber encourages craftsmen to participate in numerous fairs domestically and internationally; its advisory service provides legal, financial, and technical and technological advice to its members; and on the verge of joining the European Union, the Chamber has grown into an institution which, in partnership with the legislative and executive branches of government, protects all the members and represents their interests, big or small tradesmen alike. Only six or seven centuries ago, tradesmen protected their interests by forming brotherhoods. Later, those became guilds, and then in 1852, Chambers of Trades and Commerce were established in Zagreb, Rijeka and Osijek. In 1906, at the tradesmen’s Congress held in Zagreb, a decision was taken to establish the Union of Croatian Craftsmen Association. The constituent assembly took place the next year. That year Zagreb alone had 2,726 tradesmen, 303 shoemakers, 176 clothes makers, 141 carpenters and 105 barbers. Before World War II, Croatian tradesmen built the Trades Building in Zagreb’s MaæuraniÊev Square, and right next to it the Trade and Crafts Museum (today’s Ethnographic Museum) and the Royal National Crafts School, currently the School for Applied Arts and Design. They founded cultural societies, organized the distribution of humanitarian aid, looked

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after aging and ailing members, and they even incepted their own banking institutions. Older Zagreb citizens fondly remembered the so-called Hrvatski radiπa long after it stopped operating. The turn of the 19th century was the golden age of Zagreb’s crafts, which were on a par with the masters of Vienna. The Crafts School was one of the oldest in Croatia, and even in Europe. For as long as 32 years, its principal was the famous architect Hermann Bollé, a builder and the project manager for the restoration of the Zagreb Cathedral. In 1923, Zagreb had a population of 108,000, whereas the number of crafts shops grew to 3,350. The Day of Craftsmen was marked every November. On the eve of World War II, in 1937, at the time when the Matica building, the Headquarters

of the Croatian Craftsmen, was completed, there were 5,064 craft workshops. With the advent of socialist times after the war, in 1947 the Union’s activity was banned and its property, including the magnificent building in Ilica 49, was confiscated. The passing of the General Statute Law on Crafts pushed small private craftsmen to the margins of economic life. In a desperate fight for survival they organized clubs and associations of citizens, but that started only in the 1960s. Up to 1974, 64 such organizations were established in different municipalities, but at that time some interpreted this as an attempt to restore capitalism. In 1980, the Union of Croatian Craftsmen Associations was founded, but it was only after the autonomous and independent Croatian Republic was established

that craftsmen and tradesmen were finally given opportunities to work and become true entrepreneurs; very liberal conditions were put in place for opening craftsmen’s workshops and shops; employing other people; they were given possibilities to engage in a number of different activities - everything that had previously been unimaginable. The Refounding Assembly of the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts, which was held in 1994, reinstated the Chamber’s significance and importance after several decades. With the opening of an international office in Brussels, in the headquarters building of the European Association of Craft, Small and Medium Sized Enterprises, the Chamber has made a significant step forward in the promotion of cooperation between Croatian CROATIA AIRLINES

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craftsmen and the European Union market. Many of us perceive crafts as something that concerns old, traditional trades, which are becoming largely extinct with time, but in the Chamber they are defined as small production companies or services, usually family businesses engaged in the production of hand-made products, often based on tradition, and often passed on from generation to generation. As many as fifty percent of the craftsmen do not have a single employee, and so, everything from manufacturing or services, to managing finances is done by one person. In the continental part of Croatia, they especially cherish the traditional and artistic crafts, and production (food, furniture, metal), while in the coastal part they appreciate catering, the hospitality industry (small family boutique hotels, rural tourism), the production of olive oil, wine, prosciutto, honey, farming shellfish and fishing. Visiting fairs, festivals and all types of festivities, from Bela Nedeja (White Sunday) − a fair celebrating young wine in Kastav above the city of Rijeka − to the Fair of Old Customs and Crafts in Bijelo Brdo near Erdut, you will run into wood turners, coopers, leather tanners, shoemakers, weavers, knitters, bakers, licitar makers − all those masters who with old tools and dressed in the clothes of their time try to bring visitors closer to and revive the traditional and artistic crafts as a tourist attraction and a living reminder of how we once lived and worked. On many of these products you will see a special mark that informs that it is a traditional or artistic, authentic product made by hand. This mark is given out by the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts, which wants to encourage the preservation, 26

cultivation and recognition of the characteristics of tradition, that is, artistic culture. Since 2000, the Chamber has put two systems in place; the Court of Honour (which from 1989 until then was shared with the Croatian Chamber of Commerce) and the Centre for Mediation. The Court of Honour is composed of representatives of consumers, craftsmen and independent legal professionals who work in a transparent manner and free of charge for the parties, ensuring business ethics and professional standards. This is the place that a consumer can contact in case of a dispute with a craftsman, and this can be done for all areas of Croatia, either at Zagreb’s main headquarters, or at a branch office of the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts in the county headquarters or nearest craft association. The Centre for Mediation resolves business disputes between craftsmen (30 percent of them are resolved by settlement), thus avoiding lengthy litigation disputes. The Secretary of the Court of Honour, Suzana Kolesar, says this is to encourage socially responsible business, good business practices and respect for business ethics. With a view to promoting the quality of work, the Chamber gives out the annual award Golden Hands (a statue by the academic sculptor Hrvoje LjubiÊ) to its prestigious and honourable members, for outstanding business achievements in trade and services in the development and promotion of crafts and small enterprises. In addition to the members, this most professional recognition is also received by other natural and legal persons whose work has made a significant contribution to the development of Croatian crafts. However, without education there is no quality of work or business achievements. In the last three years, close to 28,000 students have gone through a program of education for crafts occupations, but there is still a lack of butchers, carpenters, tool-makers, wood turners, masons, locksmiths, chimney sweeps, roofers, tinsmiths, carpenters, plasterers, builders of wooden and metal ships, organ builders, blacksmiths... Despite the flood of cars, oddly, there is a lack of car body painters. Every year the Chamber uses the promotional campaign, Æelim biti majstor (I want to be a master craftsman), to try to attract young people into trades, which are often very lucrative professions. The Chamber’s Department of Education, in collaboration with the Crafts School and the responsible ministries, takes care of trade licensing, student enrolment, the practical part of apprenticeship training, organiza-

tion and implementation of qualification and apprenticeship tests, as well as the Master Craftsman Exam. After passing the state recognized exam for a profession contained in the list of crafts for which curricula are prescribed by the minister in charge of crafts, apprentices training to become casters, chimney sweeps, photographers, cobblers, boat mechanics, confectioners, gunsmiths, organ builders, musical instrument makers, boat builders, tailors of men’s clothing, hatters, coppersmiths, as well as chefs and head waiters, inter alia, will become recognized master craftsmen. Along the main road from Zagreb to Sljeme you will find the restaurant Stari Puntijar. It was founded more than 160 years ago, roughly at the same time the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts was formed. From generation to generation, during the golden times as well as the tough times, it has been run by the same family. In an ambiance full of old weapons, paintings, ceiling candle chandeliers and hunting trophies, everything here smells of tradition and times bygone. Within the complex the owner has recently opened a small museum of old cookbooks and accessories for making and serving food, and its menu offers some old Croatian dishes. Stari Puntijar is one of the restaurants participating in the project of branding indigenous Croatian cuisine, by which the Chamber, through the Catering and Tourism Guild, together with the Ministry of Tourism wants to emphasize the importance of our culinary heritage, and encourage the expansion of the national cuisine, authentic menus and use of local home-grown ingredients. In the future, when you come across the sign authentic Croatian cuisine on a menu, you will know that it is professionally confirmed, indeed proven, authentic food from the local area. What is the future of craftsmanship in the globalized world of mass production, where the golden hands of masters are appreciated, however expensive compared to cheap mass production? - Crafts have a future but craftsmen must be aware that without technological adjustments and the adoption of new knowledge and timely information, they cannot compete on the EU market, says Chamber president, Dragutin Ranogajec. - Some activities, such as manufacturing, will certainly not have an easy time, but many service trades, in reality, will not have foreign competition. The traditional and artistic crafts which are not competitive in the market but represent our national and cultural heritage should be preserved. n

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ZANATI CRAFTS ■

Na podruËju Zagreba zlatari se spominju veÊ u 14. stoljeÊu. Iako danas zlatarskih radionica koje strpljivo nastavljaju tradiciju umijeÊa ruËne obrade unikatnih zlatarskih predmeta ima sve manje, zlatarski obrt u glavnome hrvatskom gradu joπ odolijeva i pokuπava se prilagoditi novonastalim okolnostima originalnošÊu i inovacijom. Goldsmiths were mentioned in the region of Zagreb as early as the 14th century. Although their number is dropping by the day, the goldsmiths’ workshops which foster old handcraft techniques and traditions still resist while trying to adjust to new conditions with originality and innovation. Tekst i fotografije/Text and Photos Vanja Šolin

a podruËju Zagreba zlatari se spominju veÊ u 14. stoljeÊu. Godine 1368., kad je proveden prvi sluæbeni popis stanovniπtva, zapisano je tristotinjak kuÊa i 2810 stanovnika, a izmeu ostalih spominju se i obrtnici; 21 postolar, πest kovaËa, po Ëetiri zlatara i lonËara, tri mesara i dva sedlara. U poËetku 16. stoljeÊa zlatari su osnovali svoj samostalni zlatarski ceh i preuzeli povlastice budimskih zlatara. Privilegije im je potvrdio Ludovik II. 1519. godine, o Ëemu postoji i pisani trag. Na podruËju Gradeca tada je radilo 30 zlatara. U promjenjivim povijesnim i gospodarskim uvjetima zlatarski obrti pokazali su veliku sposobnost opstojnosti, kao i danas kad im nije lako boriti se na træiπtu s jeftinijim, uvoznim, serijski proizvedenim nakitom. Kako bi se lakπe nosili u toj borbi s træiπnim trendovima, zakonskom regulativom, ulaganjima u proizvodne procese te stjecanjem struËnih

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znanja, zlatarima pomaæe Hrvatska obrtniËka komora, Ministarstvo poduzetniπtva i obrta te osobito Sekcija zlatara - Udruæenja obrtnika grada Zagreba. Danaπnje vrijeme svojim novim træiπnim pravilima, veoma kratkim rokovima izrade, kad suvremena tehnologija i strojna obrada plemenitih materijala preplavljuju træiπte, ostavlja skuËeni prostor malenom broju zlatarskih radionica koje strpljivo nastavljaju tradiciju umijeÊa ruËne obrade unikatnih zlatarskih predmeta. PotroπaËki mentalitet, a i suvremeni modni trendovi diktiraju jednostavniju i jeftiniju izradu nakita. UnatoË svim nedaÊama modernih vremena, zlatarski obrt joπ odolijeva problemima træiπne ekonomije i pokuπava se prilagoditi novonastalim okolnostima originalnošÊu i inovacijom. Jedan iz plejade utjecajnih i umjetniËki obdarenih zlatara bio je Æeljko Salzberger. Naslijedio je obrt od oca Roberta, koji je zanat

nauËio kod strica, a praksu odradio u BeËu od 1920. do 1923. godine. Svojim je kreativnim umijeÊem nadahnuo i izravno utjecao na mnogo poznatih imena koja su se afirmirala u doba nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, npr. na Filipa Æupana i Ivana Peteka. StvarajuÊi pod utjecajem beËke πkole art décoa i stila Juvela, Salzberger nam je u zalog ostavio nekoliko veoma vrijednih komada nakita, npr. zlatni broπ s opalom iz 1965.godine. Od sredine 20. stoljeÊa u Zagrebu se, uz bok klasiËnom, zanatskom pristupu izrade nakita, sve viπe spominje i suradnja zlatara s umjetnicima, poglavito akademskim kiparima. ZagrebaËki zlatar Boæidar JakπiÊ poloæio je 1950. godine pomoÊniËki ispit, a zanat izuËio kod majstora Ivana KruniÊa. UmijeÊe zlatarskog obrta stekao je kod zlatara Jurja Ruka, s kojim je od 1964. do 1972. godine bio i suvlasnik zlatarske radionice πto ju je preuzeo od zlatara i draguljara CROATIA AIRLINES

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Stjepan Balja, Željko Salzberger, Filip Župan, Stjepan GrabušiÊ, Stjepan Popek, TonËi GrabušiÊ, Vladimir SveÊnjak

Jurja Kolenka i Mirka Kristana. Preuzevπi tu elitnu radionicu, JakπiÊ je nastavio izradu vrhunskog nakita. No, prijelaz na brzu, komercijalnu i jednostavniju izradu nakita uvelike se proπirio, pa u svojim nastojanjima nastavka tradicije izrade unikatnih, zlatarskih predmeta JakπiÊ postaje sve usamljeniji. Moglo bi se reÊi da istu sudbinu proæivljavaju i ostali poznati zlatari, Æeljko Salzberger, Stjepan Popek, Stjepan Balja ... Sredinom sedamdesetih godina poËela je JakπiÊeva suradnja s akademskim kiparom Josipom Cmrokom, koji je diplomirao u klasi profesora Frane KrπiniÊa i suraivao u majstorskoj radionici akademskoga kipara Vanje Radauπa. U æelji da obnovi zagrebaËku zlatarsku tradiciju novim naËinom izraæavanja, taj tandem uveo je skulpturu kao novo zlatarsko djelo. VeÊ u poËetku osamdesetih godina nastali su proizvodi osebujna oblika i prvorazredne minuciozne izrade, koja je poπtovala sve zakonitosti zlatarskog umijeÊa. Tako je nastalo kreativno prepletanje zlatarskoga i 30

kiparskog razmiπljanja, uzajamno poπtivanje dvojice majstora, svakoga sa svojim specifiËnim kvalitetama. Joπ jedan od primjera plodonosne suradnje obrtnika i umjetnika jest nakit brodskog kormila zlatara Stjepana i Monike Popek te slikara/grafiËara Miroslava ©uteja. Stjepan Balja, joπ jedan uËenik mentora Jurja Ruka, eksperimentira s mnogim tehnikama i materijalima, patiniranje zlata posebnim kemikalijama, te poslije oblikovanje reljefnom obradom - tehnika æeæano zlato (boje koje se dobivaju na zlatu: ljubiËasta, smea, cyan). Tretiranje materijala titana i srebra u kombinaciji s dragim kamenjem, sedefom, biserima ili hrvatskim crvenim koraljima takoer dobiva stilski i umjetniËki posve novi æivot. Balja svoje umijeÊe aplicira i na razliËite objekte funkcionalnog dizajna; vaze, svijeÊnjake, Ëaπe za specijalne prilike te gradonaËelniËki lanac grada ZapreπiÊa (u suradnji s umjetnikom Vladimirom BuzoliÊem). Zlatarstvo pripada meu kompleksnije struke u kojima je teæe odrediti gdje prestaje zanat

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a poËinje umjetnost, kreativnost, smisao za lijepo. Sekcija u svojim redovima ima i zlatare sa statusom umjetniËkog zanata, jedan od njih je upravo Stjepan Balja. Zbog prenoπenja znanja zlatarskih tehnika s koljena na koljeno scena grada Zagreba æivahna je i veoma kreativna. Biserka JakπiÊ Reif, kÊi Boæidara JakπiÊa, uspjeπno nastavlja kreativno djelovanje zlatarskog umijeÊa svog oca i æivi je primjer kako se tradicija zlatarstva obnavlja kroz naraπtaje. U Zagrebu danas imamo mnogo primjera vrhunskih zlatarskih obrta gdje je stvaralaËki djelovalo viπe naraπtaja: Josip i Kruno KrznariÊ, Davor i Roman Furlan, Josip i Marijan Golub, Stjepan i Goran Jelinek, –uro, –ii, Robert i Maja Baπota, Viktor Križek, njegovi unuci Viktor i Vladimir te praunuk Željko Kriæek, Milan, »edo i Renato MedakoviÊ … ZagrebaËki utjecaji uvelike se isprepleÊu s rijeËkom πkolom, naraπtaji zlatara umijeÊe i πkolovanje ispekli su u poznatim radionicama grada Zagreba. Zlatarska scena Rijeke ima

originalan i vrlo specifiËan oblik nakita, koji je nastao tijekom 17. i 18. stoljeÊa pod inspirativnim utjecajem Venecije i njezine fascinacije Orijentom. Figurina zvana morËiÊ skromnija je verzija bogato ureπenoga venecijanskog moretta. Maleni lik crnca s bijelim turbanom, izraen emajliranjem i nanesen posebnom tehnikom na plemeniti metal, postao je kroz povijest zaπtitnim znakom grada. U zlatarskom umijeÊu RijeËana Stjepana i TonËija GrabuπiÊa morËiÊ je apliciran na mnogo predmeta, od pribora za jelo do klasiËnog nakita (ogrlice, nauπnice, manæete). Kako bi pribliæio Ëitateljstvu tu materiju, slikovni sustav podijeljen je na nekoliko cjelina. U povijesnim stilovima istaknuti su klasici nakita od Salzbergerova art décoa, Baljine eksperimentalne forme (æeæano zlato), Filipa Æupana i minucioznog stila Juvela, zatim zlatni nakit rijeËke πkole majstora Vladimira SveÊnjaka i Stjepana GrabuπiÊa, figurina morËiÊa TonËija GrabuπiÊa te napokon beËki utjecaj prepoznatljiv kod zlatara Stjepana

Popeka. U odjeljku moderni klasici zanimljive radove stilom Juvela izradila je Biserka JakπiÊ Reif, slijedi KrznariÊev nakit s mediteranskim motivom listova masline, Furlanova narukvica s uzorkom hrvatskog pletera i smaragdom, zatim dizajn Maje Baπote, zlatni broπ s oniksom i bijelim biserima. Ogrlica od zlata optoËena rubinima djelo je Gorana Jelineka, te napokon zlatni broπ sa zelenim dijamantima, djelo majstora Ivana Peteka. U suvremenom nakitu istiËe se zlatni broπ s umetnutim æivim bojama kamena lapis lazulija Biserke JakπiÊ, zatim zlatni prsten s precizno bruπenim briljantom Renata MedakoviÊa, Kriæekovo zlatno sunce s bijelim biserom, studio KeËkeπ izradio je suvremeni prsten od rasklopivih zlatnih listiÊa s umetnutim dijamantom. Tu je i MedakoviÊev i Nokajev minimalizam pod utjecajem njemaËke avangardne πkole, nastavno s JakπiÊevom minimalnom ogrlicom od bijeloga i æutog zlata te na kraju Baljino zalazeÊe sunce, patirano zlato s efektom. Opus prikazanih radova znakovito CROATIA AIRLINES

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Biserka JakšiÊ, Kruno KrznariÊ, Roman Furlan, Maja Bašota, Goran Jelinek, Ivan Petek

i jasno govori o znaËajnom utjecaju zlatarskih radionica na proizvodno/kreativni potencijal obrtniπtva u Republici Hrvatskoj. Kako se taj utjecaj ne bi previdio i prepustio zaboravu, ovaj prilog svojevrsni je uvod u opseæni projekt Zlatne ruke Zagreba, knjige o zlatarima, njihovu radu i tradiciji, koju je inicirao Mario Nokaj iz zlatarske udruge Fajn. Svrha je projekta predstaviti zlatarske radionice i njihov rad tekstom i slikom te opisom tehnika kojima su se koristili u izradi nakita. Biljeæenje stanja zlatarstva u Zagrebu bitan je dokument za struku i buduÊe naraπtaje, kao i priznanje svim pokoljenjima zlatara. I ovaj je prilog svojevrsna oda proteklom vremenu i naraπtajima strastvenih, kreativnih umjetnika koji su zlatnim rukama, obraujuÊi zlato, ispisivali i zlatnu povijest grada Zagreba i Hrvatske. n hen the first official census was carried out in 1368 there were roughly 300 houses and 2810 inhabitants. Among those mentioned were craftsmen; 21 cobblers, six blacksmiths, four jewellers and 4

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potters, three butchers and two saddlers. In the early 16th century, goldsmiths established their independent goldsmith guild and adopted the privileges of the Buda Hill goldsmiths. Their privileges were confirmed by Ludwig II in 1519, as testified by a written record. At that time, 30 goldsmiths worked in the area of Gradec. Throughout changing political and economic conditions, the goldsmith craft showed great survival skills, and it still does today in their difficult fight against the market of cheaper, imported, mass market jewellery. In order to more easily cope in the struggle against adverse market trends, legislative regulations, investments in manufacturing processes and the acquisition of professional knowledge, the goldsmiths are supported by the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts, the Ministry of Entrepreneurship and Crafts, and especially by the Goldsmiths Section of the Craftsmen’s Association of Zagreb’. Nowadays, as new market rules, and extremely tight manufacturing deadlines supported by modern technology and machine processing of precious

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materials dictate developments on the market, there is enough room for only a few goldsmiths’ workshops which have patiently continued the tradition of the art of hand-crafting unique gold artefacts. The consumer mentality and contemporary fashion trends call for a simpler and cheaper way of making jewellery. Despite all the hardships of modern times, the goldsmith craft can still withstand the problems of a market economy, as it tries to adapt to new circumstances through originality and innovation. One member of this group of influential and artistically gifted jewellers was Æeljko Salzberger who inherited the craft from his father Robert, who himself had learned his trade from his uncle, and did his practice in Vienna from 1920 to1923. His creative skills inspired and directly influenced many famous names who won recognition in the period after World War II, such as Filip Æupan and Ivan Petek. Creating under the influence of the Vienna School of Art Deco and the Juvela style, Salzberger has left us a legacy of a few pieces of jewellery of

exceptional cultural value (gold brooch with an opal from 1965, the title illustration). As of the mid-20th century, cooperation between jewellers and artists (most notably academic sculptors) became increasingly popular in Zagreb, and developed alongside the classic, professional approach to making jewellery. Boæidar JakπiÊ, a goldsmith from Zagreb, passed his apprenticeship examination in 1950, and went on to perfect his goldsmith’s craft under master Ivan KruniÊ. He further mastered the art with goldsmith Juraj Ruk, with whom from 1964 to 1972 he co-owned a jewellery shop formerly owned by goldsmiths and jewellers Juraj Kolenko and Mirko Kristan. Having taken over this elite workshop JakπiÊ continued making superior jewellery. However, as the transition to fast, commercial and simpler jewellery making gained great momentum, JakπiÊ became increasingly lonelier in his efforts to continue the tradition of making unique, golden items. Other famous jewellers such as Æeljko Salzberger, Stjepan Popek and Stjepan Balja experienced the same fate over time.

During the mid-1970s, JakπiÊ began collaboration with academic sculptor Josip Cmrok, who had graduated in the class of Professor Frano KrπiniÊ and who had taken part in the master workshops of academic sculptor Vanja Radauπ. In an attempt to give the Zagreb’s goldsmith tradition a new lease of life with new forms of expression, this duo introduced sculpture as a novelty in the goldsmiths’ work. The beginning of the 1980s was marked by products of a fascinating shape and first class meticulous craftsmanship which also respected all the rules of the goldsmith workmanship. This was the beginning of a creative symbiosis wherein each of the masters brought their own specific qualities to their artistic relationship and showed a lot of respect for each other’s way of thinking − a goldsmith’s on the one hand, and a sculptor on the other. Another example of the productive cooperation between craftsmen and artists is a piece of jewellery of a ship’s wheel by jewellers Stjepan and Monika Popek and painter/graphic artist printmaker Miroslav ©utej. Stjepan Balja, another student CROATIA AIRLINES

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Biserka JakšiÊ, Renato MedakoviÊ, Vlado Križek, Zvjezdana i Kristijan KeÊkeš, Renato MedakoviÊ, Biserka JakšiÊ Reif, Stjepan Balja, Mario Nokaj

of mentor Juraj Ruk, experimented with many techniques and materials: he patinated gold using special chemicals; later he shaped it by the method of gold embossing − the technique of æeæano zlato (the colours that are based on gold: purple, brown, cyan); he treated titanium and silver materials in combination with precious stones, mother of pearl, pearls or Croatian red coral, which also received a completely new style and artistic life. Balja applied his artistic skills to a variety of functionally designed objects; vases, candlesticks, glasses for special occasions, and a chain for the mayor of ZapreπiÊ (in collaboration with the artist Vladimir BuzoliÊ). Goldsmithing is among the more complex trades in which it is difficult to determine where the craft ends and where art, creativity and a sense of beauty begin. The Section boasts among its members goldsmiths with the status of craftsmen artists; Stjepan Balja actually being one of them. Transferring the knowledge of goldsmith’s techniques from generation to generation 34

makes the scene in Zagreb lively and highly creative. Ms. Biserka JakπiÊ Reif, daughter of Boæidar JakπiÊ, successfully continues the creative activities of her father’s goldsmith trade, and is a living example of how the goldsmith tradition renews itself through generations. There are many examples in Zagreb today of quality jewellery shops in which creativity has played a major role for many generations: Josip and Kruno KrznariÊ, Davor and Roman Furlan, Josip and Marijan Golub, Stjepan and Goran Jelinek, –uro, –ii, Robert and Maja Baπota, Viktor and Vladimir Križek and greatgrandson Željko, Milan, »edo and Renato MedakoviÊ… Zagreb’s influences have had a great impact on the Rijeka school of jewellery making. Generations of Rijeka’s goldsmiths and jewellers have learned their ABC’s and honed their skills in the workshops of Zagreb’s masters. The goldsmith scene in Rijeka boasts an original and very specific form of jewellery that was created during the 17th and 18th century under the inspirational influence of Venice and

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its fascination with the Orient. The figurine is a piece of blackamoor jewellery called morËiÊ, and it is a more modest version of the richly adorned Venetian moretto. The tiny figure of a black African wearing a white turban is enamelled and applied to precious metals using a special technique. Through history the moretto has become the city’s trademark. Goldsmiths in Rijeka, Stjepan and TonËi GrabuπiÊ, have applied the moretto figure on a variety of items, ranging from tableware to classic jewellery (necklaces, earrings, and cufflinks). To help the readers’ understanding of the subject, the illustrations fall within several groups. In the category of historical styles we highlight the classic jewellery of Salzberger’s Art Deco, Balja’s experimental form (æeæano zlato), Filip Æupan’s minutious Juvela style, and then the gold jewellery of the Rijeka school by masters Vladimir SveÊnjak and Stjepan GrabuπiÊ, the morËiÊ figurines of TonËi GrabuπiÊ, and finally the Viennese influence detectable in the jewellery of Stjepan Popek. In the section modern classics, there are interesting works created

by Biserka JakπiÊ Reif done in the Juvela style, followed by KrznariÊ’s jewellery depicting the Mediterranean motif of olive leaves, and Furlan’s bracelet with the Croatian wattle pattern and emeralds. There is also a design by Maja Baπota, a gold brooch with onyx and white pearls, a gold necklace encrusted with rubies, the work of Goran Jelinek, and finally a gold brooch with green diamonds, the work of master Ivan Petek. In the category contemporary jewellery we point out a gold brooch inlaid with the vibrant coloured stone lapis lazuli by Biserka JakπiÊ, then a gold ring with a minutiously cut brilliant by Renato MedakoviÊ, Kriæek’s golden sun with a white pearl; the KeËkeπ studio created a contemporary ring of pieces of gold leaves with an embedded diamond, MedakoviÊ’s and Nokaj’s minimalism influenced by the German avant-garde school, JakπiÊ’s minimalist necklace of white and yellow gold, and finally, Balja’s setting sun, patinated gold with effects. The opus of presented works is a significant and clear illustration of the substantial influence

of goldsmiths’ and jewellers’ shops on the productive and creative potential of the Croatian craft. Efforts are currently underway to make sure that this influence is not overlooked and neglected. This article is just an introduction of sorts into the comprehensive project Golden Hands of Zagreb, a book about goldsmiths, their work and traditions, which was initiated by Mr. Mario Nokaj from the association of jewellers Fajn. The project aims to present the goldsmiths’ workshops and their work through texts and pictures, as well as provide a description of the techniques used in making jewellery. The written recording of the state of play of the goldsmith trade in Zagreb is an important document for the profession and future generations, as well as a tribute to all generations of jewellers. For this reason, this contribution is an ode to the passage of time and the generations of passionate, creative artists who have processed gold, writing the golden history of the city of Zagreb and Croatia in the process, with their own golden hands. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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Plava je boja bicikla kojima vas mala zagrebaËka obiteljska tvrtka Blue Bike poziva na jedinstveno razgledavanje grada − zabavni doæivljaj zajedniËke voænje zagrebaËkim ulicama − na biciklima. Blue is the colour of the bike by which a small Zagreb’s family company Blue Bike is inviting you on a unique sightseeing of the city − exciting adventure of joint ride through the streets of Zagreb − on bikes.

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lava je boja Zagreba − gradske zastave, zagrebaËkih tramvaja, najpoznatijega nogometnog kluba i neba iznad grada. Pa provjerite zaπto Zagreb zovu i plavi i bijeli i zeleni grad! Prepuni turistiËki autobusi, automobili koji zapinju u gradskoj guævi, problemi s parkiranjem, naguravanje u velikim skupinama turista... zaboravite! Da biste doæivjeli Zagreb, prva stvar koju trebate napraviti jest sjesti na bicikl i prepustiti se struËnom vodstvu domaÊih vodiËa − vaπih zagrebaËkih prijatelja. OkreÊuÊi pedale i uæivajuÊi u voænji, upoznat Êete sve najvaænije kulturno-povijesne znamenitosti hrvatske metropole, a Blue Bike Êe vas jedini povesti i u novi dio grada, preko rijeke Save. I ne brinite se - niste u utrci! Zaustaviti se moæete uvijek i bilo gdje. Ne samo da biste neπto zanimljivo razgledali ili fotografirali, nego i radi meusobnog upoznavanja i Ëavrljanja o svemu i svaËemu. Zato voænju Ëesto prekine i zarazni smijeh. Osim πto znaju sve o zagrebaËkoj povijesti, vodiËi Blue Bikea izvrsno su informirani i o njegovoj sadaπnjosti. Stoga Êe vas upoznati i s gradskom svakodnevicom i obiËajima, preporuËiti restoran za dobar domaÊi ruËak, pivnicu, slastiËarnicu ili kafiÊ s najboljim zagrebaËkim espressom. Doznat Êete i koja su mjesta za izlaske, gdje se odræavaju koncerti, festivali... Uostalom, moæete

ih pitati πto god vas zanima i neÊete ostati bez odgovora. Takoer, s veseljem Êe vam pomoÊi i u planiranju putovanja po cijeloj Hrvatskoj. Oh, zar zaista niste vozili bicikl veÊ deset godina?! Iznenadit Êete se kako je lako prisjetiti se! Bicikli Blue Bike veoma su udobni i sigurni, a ako æelite, dobit Êete i zaπtitnu kacigu. Zapravo, zaboraviti voziti bicikl nije moguÊe, to je jednostavno kao... voziti bicikl! Biciklima po zagrebaËkim ulicama i parkovima krstarit Êete u maloj skupini, steÊi nove prijatelje, razmijeniti adrese i brojeve telefona, upoznati ZagrepËane s kojima Êete usput porazgovarati. Tako je lako sprijateljiti se kad vam svježi zrak zagrebaËkih parkova miluje lice i kad zajedno otkrivate gradske kutke o kojima ne piπe u turistiËkim vodiËima. Ima neke zavjereniËke romantike u zajedniËkom okretanju pedala i osjeÊaju da ovaj grad postoji baπ − zbog vas. Smatrate li ipak da ste sigurniji na vlastitim nogama, tu je Blue Hike - pjeπaËka tura koja nudi jednako uzbudljiv doæivljaj Zagreba. Na dvije noge ili na dva kotaËa, svejedno, upoznavanje Zagreba Blue Bikeom mnogo je viπe od uobiËajenoga turistiËkog razgledavanja − to je doæivljaj koji Êete zauvijek nositi u srcu, poput najdraæega zagrebaËkog suvenira. Blue Bike organizira razgled grada svakodnevno, tijekom cijele godine. Voenje je na engleskom jeziku, a na njemaËkom, πpanjolskom, talijanskom ili ruskom na zahtjev. No, jedno je pouzdano − na kraju druæenja s Blue Bikeom osjeÊat Êete se kao purger − roeni ZagrepËanin. n Zbog visokog rejtinga na Trip Advisoru, najveÊoj svjetskoj mreæi komentara o turistiËkim odrediπtima i putovanjima, Blue Bike je dobitnik certifikata izvrsnosti za 2010., 2011. i 2012. godinu. Svoje mjesto na turi Blue Bike moæete rezervirati preko e-maila info@zagrebbybike.com ili pozivom ili sms-om na +385 98 188 3344. Viπe o ponudi pogledajte na www.zagrebbybike.com

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lue is the colour of Zagreb − city flag, city trams, the most famous football club and sky above the city. So, come and see why Zagreb is called blue and white and green city in one! Full tourist buses, cars that are getting sucked in an urban crowd, parking problems, shoving in large tourist groups ... forget about it! To experience Zagreb the first thing that you should do is to hop on a bike and to give yourself to a professional guidance by genuine tourist guides − your friends from Zagreb. By pedalling and enjoying the ride you will meet cultural-historical sights of Croatian capital and Blue Bike is the only one who will take you over the river Sava into a newer part of the city.

And do not worry - you are not in a race! You can stop whenever and for as long as you need. Not only to see something interesting or to take some photos, but to get to know each other and to chit chat. This is why the ride is often interrupted by laughter! Besides the fact that they know all about Zagreb’s history, Blue Bike guides are well informed about its present. Therefore, they will introduce you to the city’s everyday life and customs; they can recommend you a good restaurant with domestic food, ale houses, pastry-shops or coffee bars with the best espresso in Zagreb. You can find out the best places to go out, where concerts and festivals are being held... after all − you can ask them whatever interests you and you will not end up with no answer! Also, they will be glad to help you with planning of the rest of your trip around Croatia. Oh, you haven’t ridden a bike for ten years?! You will be surprised how easy it is to remember! Blue Bike bikes are safe and comfortable and if you want an extra protection you can get a helmet too. Actually, it is impossible to forget how to ride a bike, it is simple as... riding a bike! You will slide on bikes all over city streets and parks in small groups, meeting new friends, exchanging addresses, phone numbers, and meeting citizens of Zagreb. It is easy to be friend when clean air from Zagreb’s parks brushes over your face and when you discover some city corners that are not to be found in city guides together! There is some romantic conspiracy in joint pedalling and feeling that this city exists − just for you. If you think that you are much safer on your own two feet, take Blue Hike − walking tour equally exciting to experience the city. On two wheels or on two feet, it doesn’t matter, experiencing Zagreb with Blue Bike means much more than usual touristic sightseeing − it is an experience that you will carry in your heart forever as the best Zagreb’s souvenir. Blue Bike organises sightseeing daily, through the whole year. Tours are guided in English and in German, Spanish, Italian or Russian on demand. But, one thing is for sure − at the end of your Blue Bike tour you will feel like a genuine purger − a Zagreb native. n Thanks to high rating on Trip Advisor, the largest world net of comments regarding tourist destinations and travelling, Blue Bike is the winner of the Certificate of Excellence for years 2010, 2011 and 2012. You can book your Blue Bike tour by e-mail info@zagrebbybike.com or call or text message on +385 98 188 3344. More on the offer please look at www.zagrebbybike.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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Istria.

Green Mediterranean.

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Istria. Green Mediterranean.

Istria offers much more than sun and wonderful beaches set along 450 km of coastline. This peninsula, with its countless natural and cultural attractions, is a destination to visit all year round. An “active holiday” is the best way to describe a stay amongst the wonders of Istria, as you can practice all kind of sports: sailing, explore the underwater beauty with reefs, caves and shipwrecks, trekking, riding, paragliding, play tennis or golf.... And that‘s not all.... Istria also has an excellent reputation for cyclists, with its quiet roads during Spring and Autumn and amazing views, enchanting bays and scented pine forests. For those who want exclusive relaxation, Istria offers spas and wellness centres that are a pleasant alternative to a classic holiday.

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1. Enjoy a seaside holiday. 2. Family-friendly accommodation both on the coast and inland. 3. Charming small towns. 4. Explore Istria on two wheels.

The region is particular wellknown for exceptional gourmet experience, as for truffles, Istrian malvasia and olive oil, in an area full of wholesome produce and atmospheric medieval villages on the top of green hills. Sea, nature, cultural heritage and typical products - all demonstrate that Istria is the ideal destination for great cuisine, great wine and a great lifestyle. More information: www.istra.com

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■ ISTRA ISTRIA

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Piše/By Barbara Ban Fotografije/Photos Arhiva TuristiËke zajednice Istarske županije/ Archive of the Istria Tourist Board

Pedaliranjem Parenzanom upoznajte iskonsku ljepotu istarskog poluotoka. Istra raspolaæe sa stotinjak biciklistiËkih staza dugaËkih oko tri tisuÊe kilometara, a njihovi su itinerari oznaËeni na unificiranim biciklistiËkim kartama. Pedal your way along Parenzana and get to know the natural beauty of the Istrian peninsula. Istria has about a hundred biking trails, about 3000 km long, and their itineraries are marked in standardized biking maps. CROATIA AIRLINES

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rije stotinu godina ovim je æivopisnim breæuljkastim krajem vozila parna lokomotiva. Od Trsta do PoreËa prevozila je poljoprivredne proizvode po kojima je Istra od davnina poznata, a njome su se vozili i putnici. Doduπe, vlak se kretao vrlo sporo, posebice na uzbrdicama, kad su usporedno s lokomotivom putnici mogli i lagano trËati i u tome je poduhvatu i preteÊi. Bilo je stoga mnogo πala na raËun nekadaπnje slavne Parenzane, uskotraËne pruge koja je prolazila najljepπim dijelovima unutraπnjosti istarskoga poluotoka, a njome su vlakovi prometovali od 1902. do 1935. g. Ako su se putnici i æalili na sporost vlaka, prituæbi zacijelo nisu imali na predivne vizure breæuljkastog krajolika, jer odavde pogled puca na najljepπe istarske srednjovjekovne gradiÊe, brojne vinograde i maslinike koji daju vrhunska maslinova ulja i vino, polja i livade, pa sve do morske obale. VeÊ se dugo vremena ovim krajem nije Ëuo tutanj lokomotive, ali Parenzana, sreÊom, nije zaboravljena. U posljednjih je desetak godina pretvorena u pravi raj za bicikliste i πetaËe, beraËe πparoga, ali i drugoga poljskoga ljekovitoga i aromatiËnog bilja kojega ne nedostaje uz ovu nekadaπnju prugu, koja vodi od Trsta preko Kopra do Kaπtela, Buja, Groænjana te se preko Livada spuπta do Mirne, kako bi se preko Motovuna i Viæinade ponovno digla i krenula svojim smjerom prema PoreËu. Ona je najpoznatija istarska biciklistiËka atrakcija koja je jednako atraktivna i za bicikliste rekreativce, za istraæivaËe i ljubitelje prirode, ali i za one æeljne stjecanja fiziËke spreme. Bilo da njome biciklirate u proljeÊe, ljeti i u jesen ili za lijepih zimskih dana, doËekat Êe vas zapanjujuÊi vidici, pogotovo na dionici od srednjovjekovnoga umjetniËkoga Groænjana, poznatoga po brojnim malim galerijama te jazzu i glazbenicima, pa sve do Livada, svijetu znanih po vrhunskoj gastronomskoj deliciji tartufu. Bicikliranje tom dionicom vrhunski je uæitak, osobito za rekreativce koji nisu viËni veÊim fiziËkim naporima. Osim prirode, koja osvaja neopisivom ljepotom, oblicima i mirisima, da ne govorimo o tiπini jer umjesto zvukova nekadaπnje lokomotive jedino se Ëuje cvrkut ptica, upravo na tom potezu moæete svjedoËiti povijesti Parenzane. Tu se nalaze najatraktivniji vijadukti i tuneli uz koje se obavezno morate zaustaviti i snimiti nekoliko fotografija za sjeÊanje. Spuπtanjem u Livade, onaj tko æeli viπe znati πto se dogodilo s Parenzanom, sve informacije moæe saznati u malome muzeju posveÊenome upravo toj istarskoj æeljeznici. Oni æeljni gubljenja kalorija na pedalama, mogu se dalje zaputiti stazom prema mistiËnome Motovunu koji veÊ

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stoljeÊima straæari nad rijekom Mirnom. Dovoljno je popiti kavu na jednoj od terasa u staroj jezgri s pogledom na dolinu pa sve do mora, ali i na obliænje breæuljke, koji su ujesen i sproljeÊa obavijeni maglom. I doæivljaj je potpun. Daljnji put vodi vas prema slikovitoj Viæinadi, gdje moæete vidjeti i maketu nekadaπnje lokomotive koja je vozila Parenzanom, a tada se poljskim putovima, jer pruge i kolosijeka veÊ odavno nema, spuπtate prema gradu Eufrazijeve bazilike - PoreËu. Ali, nije samo ta biciklistiËka staza, duga 78 kilometara, koja povezuje zalee i obalu, jedina staza u Istri s predivnim vizurama i mnogim odmoriπtima πto omoguÊavaju

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razgled srednjovjekovnih gradiÊa, posjet vinskim podrumima i kantinama maslinova ulja te na kraju krajeva i odmor uz tradicionalan ili manje tradicionalan istarski ruËak u nekoj od πarmantnih domaÊih konoba, agroturizama ili restorana. Njih ima popriliËno i presijecaju poluotok od UËke do poznatog rta Kamenjaka. Onaj tko doe u Istru na aktivan odmor od sedam dana, svaki dan moæe osmisliti neki novi itinerar i upoznati Istru, njezina mjesta i ljude onake kakvi oni istinski jesu, daleko od vreve uæurbanih turistiËkih bisera na obali poput Pule, Rovinja, PoreËa, Vrsara, Novigrada, Umaga i Rapca. Tko æeli tiπinu i izlet u prirodu u blizini mora, kako bi pedaliranje povezao s kupanjem u kristalno Ëistome moru, treba se zaputiti na najjuæniji dio istarskog poluotoka - rt Kamenjak, koji slovi kao zaπtiÊeno podruËje prirode. Kamenjak obiluje makadamskim biciklistiËkim stazama koje vode jednim od najljepπih krajolika u Hrvatskoj, gdje se kopno na najdramatiËniji moguÊi naËin stapa s morem. Vizure su na svakom koraku drugaËije: od pogleda na razvedeno medulinsko priobalje i mnoπtvo otoËiÊa, te poznati svjetionik Porer. Kamenjak osvaja i mnogim skrovitim uvalicama. Dovoljno je reÊi da je jedna ljepπa od druge. Znaju to i brojni nautiËari. Ima tu i tragova dinosaura, Ëak 37 vrsta endemiËna bilja, mnogih vrsta orhideja i razliËitoga drugog mediteranskog bilja koje ovo mjesto, kad se zemlja probudi u proljeÊe, pretvara u pravi aromatiËni raj. Osim kupanja za toplijih dana, na Kamenjaku se moæe predahnuti i na nekoliko odmoriπta, a jedan od najomiljenijih posjetiteljima Kamenjaka jest Safari bar. Stoga ne Ëudi πto Istra postaje pravi raj za one æeljne aktivna odmora, osobito bicikliste, i to u proljeÊe i u jesen. Ona za ljubitelje pedaliranja pruæa sve - od trasiranih i oznaËenih

biciklistiËkih staza, do biciklistiËkih karata i broπura, u tiskanom izdanju ili na internetu, niz specijaliziranih bike hotela, educirane i licencirane bike vodiËe te brojne biciklistiËke manifestacije − od rekreativnih biciklijada do profesionalnih biciklistiËkih utrka koje se organiziraju cijele godine. ToËnije, Istra raspolaæe sa stotinjak biciklistiËkih staza, koje su dugaËke oko tri tisuÊe kilometara, a njihovi su itinerari oznaËeni na unificiranim biciklistiËkim kartama. VeÊina je staza unificirano oznaËena i na terenu, radi lakπeg snalaæenja. U prvom redu posrijedi su mountainbike ili cestovne staze. Prilagoene su apsolutno svim vrstama biciklista, od rekreativaca koji jedino æele na dva kotaËa uæivati u prirodi i turistiËkoj ponudi Istre, do sportaπa i pustolova koji su u potrazi za adrenalinom. Ovisnici o adrenalinu svakako trebaju iskuπati biciklistiËke staze najsjevernijeg dijela Istre - Buzeπtine i ΔiÊarije, a sportaπi mnoge sporedne i manje prometne asfaltirane ceste u unutraπnjosti. Poæelite li detaljne informacije o svim biciklistiËkim sadræajima u Istri, od staza i usluga, preko fotogalerija do kalendara dogaanja te joπ mnogo toga, posjetite sluæbeni portal www.istria-bike.com i isplanirajte vaπe biciklistiËko putovanje srcolikim poluotokom. Tražite li pak smjeπtaj koji nudi objekte opremljene spremiπtima za bicikle i potpuno prilagoene biciklistima, svakako posjetite neke od Valamarovih hotela u PoreËu i Rapcu te na otoku Krku. Detalje njihove ponude za bicikliste pogledajte na adresi www.valamar.com/biking-holidays Istria Valamar Terra Magica Jedna od najznaËajnijih biciklistiËkih manifestacija u Istri jest utrka Istria Valamar Terra Magica. Njezino ovogodiπnje izdanje odræat Êe se od 10. do 12. svibnja, a ova natjecateljska utrka vozi se u tri etape na atraktivnim lokacijama Poreπtine i istarske unutraπnjosti. U nedjelju se, kao zavrπna etapa, vozi crosscountry maraton u Tinjanu, na kojoj se moæe sudjelovati neovisno o prve dvije etape. Uz redoviti program, ove godine organizira se i djeËja MTB cross-country utrka Valamar Junior trophy, koja se odræava u subotu, 11. svibnja. Novost je i biciklijada Fun XC maraton za rekreativce i obitelji, koja se vozi u nedjelju u Tinjanu na kraÊoj trasi duljine 25 kilometara. Povoljan smjeπtaj za vrijeme te manifestacije nudi hotelsko-ugostiteljska tvrtka Valamar Hotels & Resorts, koja je za tu priliku pripremila posebne aranæmane. Viπe informacija o dogaaju moæe se saznati na www.istria-terramagica.com (ili www.istria-bike.com). n

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bout a century ago, a steam locomotive ran through this picturesque, hilly landscape. It transported farming produce, for which Istria has been famous since ancient times, from Trieste to PoreË, and it also carried passengers. True, the train moved very slowly, particularly uphill, and passengers could actually run alongside the locomotive and outrun it. Many jokes were therefore told at the expense of the once-famous Parenzana, the narrow-gauge railway which ran through the most beautiful parts of the Istrian peninsula’s inland, and on which trains were in operation from 1902 to 1935. Even if the passengers complained of the train’s sluggishness, there were certainly no complaints regarding the magnificent vistas of the hilly landscape, as the view opens to the most beautiful Medieval towns, many vineyards and olive groves which produce top-quality olive oils and wines, fields and meadows, all the way to the sea shore. It has been a long time since the rumble of the locomotive could be heard in this region, but fortunately, Parenzana has not been forgotten. In the last decade it has been transformed into a paradise for bikers and strollers, and

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10 years of excellence

pickers of asparagus and other medicinal and aromatic field herbs, which are abundant near this former railway, running from Trieste via Koper to Kaπtel, Buje and Groænjan, and going downhill through Livade to Mirna, rising again via Motovun and Viæinada, and continuing its course towards PoreË. It is the most famous Istrian biking attraction, equally appealing to recreational bikers, to explorers and lovers of nature, and to those who want to keep physical fit. Whether you ride a bike along it in the spring, summer, autumn or on fine winter days, you will encounter magnificent views, particularly on the section going from the Medieval and artistic town of Groænjan, renowned for its many small galleries and jazz and other musicians, to Livade, world-famous for a supreme delicacy − truffles. Biking along this section is a superb pleasure, particularly for recreational bikers who are not used to extreme physical exertion. In addition to the nature which will capture you with its incredible beauty, shapes and scents, as well as the silence where, instead of the sounds of the locomotive today only the chirping of the birds can be heard,

this is the section where you can witness Parenzana’s history. This is where the most attractive viaducts and tunnels are, where you should by all means stop and take a few snapshots as souvenirs. As you descend to Livade, those who wish to know what happened to Parenzana can get that information at the small museum dedicated to the Istrian railway. Those who wish to burn calories by pedalling can go further along the path to the mystical town of Motovun, which has been keeping watch over the river Mirna for centuries. In order to make the experience complete, it is enough to have a cup of coffee on one of the terraces in the old town centre overlooking the valley all the way to the sea and the nearby hills which are wrapped in fog in the autumn and spring. The road takes you further to the picturesque Viæinada where you can see the model of the former locomotive which ran along Parenzana, and then you descend by paths in the field, since the railway and tracks are long gone, to the town of the Euphrasian Basilica − PoreË. However, this 78 km long biking trail connecting the inland and the coast is not the only road in Istria with beautiful vistas and CROATIA AIRLINES

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numerous resting areas which provide views of small Medieval towns, visits to wine cellars and olive oil canteens and, finally, relaxation over a traditional or somewhat less traditional Istrian lunch in one of charming local taverns, agro-tourist facilities or restaurants. There are many of them across the peninsula, from the mountain of UËka to the famous cape Kamenjak. A visitor to Istria seeking an active week-long vacation can create a new itinerary every day, getting to know Istria, its towns and its people as they truly are, far away from the bustle of the busiest tourist pearls along the coast, like Pula, Rovinj, PoreË, Vrsar, Novigrad, Umag and Rabac. Those who prefer quiet and excursions in the wild, and yet want to be near the sea in order to combine pedalling and swimming in the crystal-clear sea, should head for the southernmost part of the Istrian peninsula − cape Kamenjak, which is a protected natural area. Kamenjak has many macadam biking trails running through one of Croatia’s most beautiful landscapes, where the inland meets the sea in the most dramatic way. Vistas are different at every step, ranging from the view of the indented Medulin coast and many islets to the famous lighthouse Porer. Kamenjak is also irresistible with its many hidden coves. It is sufficient to say that one is more beautiful than the next. Many yachtsmen know this. There are also dinosaur footprints, as many as 37 endemic plant species, different types of orchids and various other Mediterranean plants which, when the soil wakes up in spring, transform 46

this place into an aromatic paradise. In addition to swimming on warmer days, Kamenjak offers a chance to relax in several resting areas, and one of the favourites of Kamenjak’s visitors is the Safari Bar. It is therefore no surprise that Istria is becoming a true heaven for people who want an active vacation, particularly bikers, mainly in spring and autumn. It offers everything for lovers of pedalling − blazed and marked biking trails, biking maps and brochures, whether in print or on the Internet, specialized bike hotels, trained and licensed bike guides and numerous biking events − from recreational biking competitions to professional biking races organized throughout the year. More precisely, Istria has about a hundred biking trails, about 3000 km long, and their itineraries are marked in standardized biking maps. Most of the trails are marked in a standardized manner in the fields as well, to make it easier for bikers to find their way. These are primarily mountain-bike or road trails. They are adapted to absolutely every type of biker, from recreational bikers who only want to enjoy Istria’s nature and tourist offer travelling on two wheels, to sportsmen and adventurers seeking an adrenaline rush. Adrenaline addicts must try biking the trails of Istria’s northernmost region - Buzeπtina and ΔiÊarija, and sportsmen should check out the numerous asphalt side roads in the inland with less traffic. If you want to obtain detailed information on all of Istria’s biking attractions, from trails and services to photo-galleries and calendars of

events, and many other things, visit the official portal www.istria-bike.com and plan your biking trip across the heart-shaped peninsula. If you are looking for accommodation which provides facilities to store bicycles and is completely customized for cyclists, you should definitely visit some of the Valamar hotels in PoreË and Rabac and on the island of Krk. The details of their offers for cyclists can be found at www.valamar.com/biking-holidays. Istria Valamar Terra Magica One of the most significant biking events in Istria is the race Istria Valamar Terra Magica. This year, it will take place from 10 to 12 May, and this competitive race is divided into three sections in attractive locations of Poreπtina and the Istrian inland. On Sunday, as the final section, there is the cross-country marathon in Tinjan, where participation is possible regardless of the previous two sections. In addition to the regular program, this year the children’s MTB cross-country race Valamar Junior trophy has also been organized on Saturday, 11 May. Another novelty is the biking competition Fun XC marathon for recreational bikers and families, which will take place on Sunday in Tinjan on a shorter, 25 km long route. Budget accommodation during this event is offered by the hotel and catering company Valamar Hotels & Resorts, which has prepared special offers for this occasion. Further information on the event can be obtained at www.istria-terramagica.com (or www.istria-bike.com). n

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Lopud RAJ DEVET MILJA OD DUBROVNIKA oæda su stari Rimljani, koji su veÊ pohodili otok po imenu Delafota, imali drugaËiju sliku prebivaliπta svojih boæanstava, no u oËima danaπnjih posjetilaca Lopud se predstavlja upravo kao djeliÊ raja uronjen u tisuÊe nijansi plave hrvatskoga mora. Tek nekoliko minuta voænje brodom dijele ovaj otok u obliku leptira od obliænjeg Dubrovnika, no osjeÊaj da ste stigli na blagoslovljeno mjesto u prirodi koje ljubomorno Ëuvaju njegovi malobrojni stanovnici jest neposredan i obuhvaÊa sva osjetila. Dovoljno je zatvoriti oËi da vam se nosnice ispune mirisom guste sredozemne vegetacije koja se izmjenjuje s palmama i stapa s mirisom mora. A ako vam ovo nije dovoljno, pustite onda da vas sluh podsjeti da se nalazite na otoku stvorenome da vam udahne mir i bezbriænost: na otoku nema nijednog automobila (vidjet Êete samo neËujna vozila za golf), zbog Ëega je Lopud pravi komadiÊak raja koji Êe vam zajamËiti opuπtenost kakvu rijetka mjesta na svijetu mogu ponuditi. S 2584 sunËanih sati godiπnje i 12 kilometara obale duæ koje moæete obiÊi cijeli otok, Lopud je idealno utoËiπte za parove i manje grupe u potrazi za mirom ili za posvemaπnje zaljubljenike u prirodu. Obala je uglavnom stjenovita, πto je i tipiËno za otoËja ovoga predjela, no ne nedostaje ni pjeπËanih plaæa, meu kojima je najpoznatija πiroka plaæa ©unj, Ëije je toplo i kristalno Ëisto more dostojno istinskoga tropskog raja. I premda je nedvojbeno toËno da je ovdje priroda neosporna boæica koja svakom posjetitelju prireuje praznik za oËi, jednako tako Lopud nije samo mjesto divlje i netaknute prirode, nego i povijesni i tradicijski biser koji treba otkriti. ©etajuÊi njegovim mirisnim stazama, naiÊi Êete na tridesetak crkvica i kapelica te joπ viπe spomenika u samostanima i kuÊama aristokrata, koji nisu sluËajno odabrali baπ Lopud, od toliko hrvatskih otoka, kao omiljeno ladanjsko mjesto. Bilo da æelite odsjesti u luksuznom hotelu, bilo da viπe volite otkrivati Ëar tradicionalnih vila, ono πto Êete sa zadovoljstvom otkriti na Lopudu jest da je gostoljubivost jednako sveta kao i priroda. n

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PARADISE JUST 9 MILES FROM DUBROVNIK he Romans, who were already visiting the island of Delafota in their day, might have imagined the home of their gods differently, but to the eyes of the modern visitor, Lopud is nothing less than a corner of paradise nestling amidst a million hues of blue in the Croatian Sea. This butterfly-shaped island lies just a few minutes by ferry from Dubrovnik, but once ashore you are instantly embraced by the feeling that you have arrived in a place that has been kissed by nature and is jealously guarded by its few inhabitants. Just close your eyes and let the perfumes of thick Mediterranean vegetation and palm trees blended with those of the sea invade your senses. And if that is not enough, your ears will remind you that this island was created solely to instil peace and serenity. Cars are not permitted - you will encounter just the occasional golf cart - and this makes Lopud a real piece of paradise whose only objective is to guarantee the relaxation that very few other places in the world can. Lopud, with 2584 annual hours of sunshine and a 12 kilometre coastline, provides the perfect

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escape for couples and small groups seeking privacy or simply for lovers of nature. Typical of archipelagos in this area, the coastline is primarily rocky, but sandy beaches can be found and the most famous of these is Sunj beach; a large area boasting warm crystal-clear waters which is worthy of an authentic tropical paradise. While it is undeniably true that nature here is an undisputed goddess who reserves joys for all her visitors - whether they are admirers of the land or the depths of the sea - it is equally true that Lopud is not just wild uncontaminated nature, but also a gem of history and tradition to be discovered. Strolling along scented paths you can encounter thirty or more churches and chapels, which may be perfectly restructured or simply the ruins of what once stood there. Even more numerous are the monasteries and homes of aristocrats who throughout history have consistently chosen Lopud, of all the Croatian islands, as their preferred holiday destination. Whether you choose to stay in a luxury hotel or experience the charm of a traditional villa, one thing you will pleasantly discover is that on Lopud hospitality is as sacred as nature itself. n

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Idealan izbor za vas THE IDEAL CHOICE FOR YOU

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heraton Zagreb Hotel jedan je od najluksuznijih i najudobnijih hotela smjeπtenih u srediπtu grada. Hotel je savrπen izbor za poslovne goste, kao i za one koji u Zagreb dolaze turistiËki. Ono zbog Ëega je Sheraton Zagreb Hotel osobito atraktivan jest njegova bogata i raznolika ponuda.

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he Sheraton Zagreb Hotel is one of the most luxurious and most comfortable hotels located in the city centre. The hotel is the perfect choice for business people as well as tourists. What makes the Sheraton Zagreb Hotel especially attractive is its rich and diverse offer.

Comfortable accommodation accompanied by excellent cuisine The Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, with its 306 rooms and suites, offers functional and comfortable accommodation. Our professional staff can organize all types of business events in 17 luxuriously equipped conference and banquet rooms. The hotel is an ideal place for all types of celebrations and special events. The gastronomic offer makes this hotel so highly respected. Visitors can enjoy two elegantly designed restaurants Fontana and Kralj Tomislav, as well as the newly renovated Café Imperial and the Piano Bar. Café Imperial Renovated and designed in a modern way, Café Imperial presents its new gastronomic offer. The daily menu offers high quality meals at reasonable prices which have been adapted to the rapid pace of everyday life. Doite i provjerite zaπto je Sheraton Zagreb Hotel postao sinonim za kvalitetu i udobnost. Come and see why the Sheraton Zagreb Hotel has become a synonym for quality and comfort.

Book at sheraton.com/zagreb or hotel-sheratonzagreb.com or call +385 1 455 3535

Udoban smjeπtaj upotpunjen vrhunskom gastronomskom ponudom Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, sa svojih 306 soba i apartmana, nudi vam funkcionalan i udoban smjeπtaj. U 17 luksuzno opremljenih konferencijsko-banketnih dvorana struËno osoblje moæe organizirati sve vrste poslovnih dogaanja. Hotel je idealno mjesto za sve vrste proslava i prigodnih domjenaka. Zbog gastronomske ponude ovaj je hotel osobito cijenjen. Posjetitelji mogu uæivati u dva elegantno ureena restorana, Fontana i Kralj Tomislav, te u novoureenom Caféu Imperial i Piano baru. Café Imperial Novoobnovljeni i suvremeno dizajnirani Café Imperial predstavlja vam i novu gastronomsku ponudu. Svakodnevno su u ponudi kvalitetni obroci po pristupaËnim cijenama, prilagoeni ubrzanom ritmu svakodnevice. 50

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feels like home :) Located downtown, in the heart of Zagreb’s bustling business district, Hotel International is the ideal venue, whether you’re visiting the City for business or pleasure. Our spacious, elegantly appointed guest-rooms, and luxurious suites, will ensure that your stay in Zagreb will be one to remember. Just minutes away from Zagreb’s main attractions, the Hotel International is your best bet as a starting point to explore the City’s hidden corners, green parks, picturesque open-air markets, theatres, museums, galleries, bohemian cafés and lively clubs. “Feels like home ...” is not just a slogan, but rather our service promise. Come and see for yourself - be sure to book Hotel International on your next visit to Zagreb.

Expedia® travelers have ranked for the second year in a row Hotel International among the world’s best hotels on this year’s Expedia Insiders’ Select™ list. The list formally recognizes individual hotels worldwide that consistently deliver excellent service, a great overall experience and a notable value. The full list represents only a small percentage of the world’s top hotels from the more than 110,000 hotel properties offered on Expedia®.

Miramarska 24

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10 000 Zagreb

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Croatia

1st prize - Tourist Flower Quality for Croatia Award for the best continental Croatian hotel with 4* in 2010 & 2011 & 2012.

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T: +385 1 610 8800

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■ KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

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Piše/By Anika Rešetar Drvar

Fotografije/Photos Saša Pjanić

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Bjelovaru se ima vremena − sve je pregledno, dobro strukturirano, nema guæve i grozniËave uæurbanosti. Sve je blizu i lako dostupno pa se ovdje ljudi druæe i tijekom tjedna, a ne samo vikendom, kao u veÊim gradovima zakrËenima prometom i ljudima. U Bjelovaru su i tvornice i bolnica, πkole i muzej, mnogo netaknute prirode i obilje manifestacija koje su pokrenuli sami graani, a pretvorile su se u zbivanja πto privlaËe mnoge posjetitelje i izdaleka. Grad je srediπte Bjelovarsko-bilogorske æupanije i Bjelovarsko-kriæevaËke biskupije, udaljen pedesetak kilometara od Zagreba, a u njemu danas æivi 42.000 stanovnika. Bjelovar je vrlo mladi grad − osnovan je dekretom carice Marije Terezije 1756. godine radi nastanka jake vojne utvrde, kao sjediπte pukovnija Vojne krajine. Bjelovar je nastao planski. Zamislite golem kvadrat (400m x 400 m) podijeljen na pravilno rasporeene ulice, koje se sijeku pod pravim kutom, a u srediπtu kvadrata prostrani je trg kojim dominira katoliËka crkva sv.Terezije Avilske iz 1772. godine. VeÊina zgrada imala je vojnu namjenu, bile su to vojarnice, skladiπta i stanovi za Ëasnike i vojnike, a uz crkvu dvije su zgrade iz 1774.godine, koje su sluæile kao kolegij-samostan. Vojna je uprava pozvala pijariste Huberta i Ignacija Diviπa, Ëeπke redovnike, da osnuju πkolu za ËasniËku djecu, koju su uskoro poËela pohaati i gradska djeca. Srce trga tvori jedan od najljepπih parkova u Hrvatskoj, nastao na mjestu negdaπnjega travnatoga vojnog vjeæbaliπta. Perivojsko drveÊe i razigranost nasada francuske vrtne arhitekture duπu uvijek razvesele, paviljon sagraen od braËkog kamena kao da duh poziva na sabranost, a na bitne vrline za æivot podsjeÊaju nas kipovi Ëetiri sveca: svete Terezije, svetog Jurja, svete Jelene Kriæarice i svetog Ivana Nepomuka. Postavljeni su 1777./78. oko nekadaπnjeg zdenca kao zaπtitnici krajiπkih pukovnija, a sada su mnogima nadahnuÊe, utoËiπte i utjeha. Sedamdesetih godina 18. stoljeÊa Bjelovar dobiva cehovske i sajamske povlastice. Tada u grad dolaze i njemaËki i Ëeπki obrtnici. Prva tvornica bila je svilana sa 36 tkalaËkih stanova, otvorena 1785., a radila je sve do 1867., gotovo sto godina. Radiπnost i polet te jak industrijski razvoj omoguÊila je bolja æeljezniËka povezanost s kraja 19. stoljeÊa, a 1886. otvorena je i prva ©egrtska πkola. Josip Svoboda osnovao je 1887.godine mesarsko poduzeÊe, a proizvode je nudio i u vlastitoj gostionici. Dobro poslovanje rezultiralo je osnivanjem Prve bjelovarske tvornice suhomesnatih proizvoda. Paromlini su se osnivali potkraj 19.stoljeÊa, a ujedinili su se u dioniËko druπtvo Sjedinjeni

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Bjelovar ima sve πto je potrebno za æivot suvremena Ëovjeka, a u odnosu na veÊe gradove nudi i osjeÊaj za ljepotu u svakodnevici. Grad je srediπte Bjelovarsko-bilogorske æupanije i BjelovarskokriæevaËke biskupije, udaljen pedesetak kilometara od Zagreba. Osnovan je dekretom carice Marije Terezije, a dolazak ljeta slavi se velikom manifestacijom Terezijana, πto se odræava sredinom lipnja. Bjelovar has everything necessary for modern man’s life, and in comparison to larger cities, it offers a sense of beauty in everyday life. The city, located about 50 kilometres from Zagreb, is the centre of Bjelovar-Bilogora County and the Bjelovar-Kriæevci Diocese. It was founded by Empress Maria Theresa’s decree, and the advent of summer is celebrated with Theresiana, a big festival held in mid-June. 54

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paromlini. Poslovali su izvrsno pa su tako 1917.godine osnovali tvornicu gospodarskih strojeva SMEV, koja je tada zapoπljavala 350 radnika. Hinko Herman osnovao je 1919. godine tvornicu koja se danas zove Tomo VinkoviÊ, Adolf Vybiral 1920. godine osniva Prvu bjelovarsku tvornicu cipela, a Marko Hoffman vlasnik je tvornice koæe Velebit. Tvornicu ulja d.d. osnovali su 3.kolovoza 1918.svojim kapitalom dioniËari: Meixner, Kolesar, Svoboda, ÆliËar i MoËaËer, vlasnici i patenta za preradu ulja iz buËinih sjemenki. Pollak i Perl bili su vlasnici tekstilne industrije Biser. U to je doba Bjelovar, poslije Zagreba, Karlovca i Varaædina, bio na Ëetvrtome mjestu po industrijskoj snazi, kao da je bio zaraæen poduzetniËkim virusom koji je gradu omoguÊio rast i razvoj. Potkraj Drugoga svjetskog rata svi su gospodarski subjekti nacionalizirani, a onda su se opet iz narodnih ruku pretvorbom iz devedesetih godina 20. stoljeÊa vratili u privatne. Neke tvornice i dalje rade s uspjehom, a neke se nisu uspjele prilagoditi novim zahtjevima poslovanja. Vlasnici tvornica tvorili su sloj buræoazije koja se naseljava u dvije Ëetvrti vila, secesijskim zgradama s prednjim vrtovima i æeljeznim ogradama nastalima na prijelazu stoljeÊa, fin de siècle. Djeca buræoazije studirala su u 58

BeËu, Budimpeπti i Zagrebu i u Bjelovar donosila navike, namjeπtaj i novinske pretplate. Mladen Medar, ravnatelj Gradskog muzeja, detaljno je opisao visoku razinu umjetniËkog obrta vidljivu na njima, a u muzeju mogu se razgledati namjeπtaj i posue i iz tog doba. Godine 1894. osnovano je i Druπtvo za poljepπavanje grada Bjelovara. BoljestojeÊi graani dragovoljnim prilozima uskaËu tamo gdje sredstva gradske blagajne ne dostiæu i pritom slijede ideal dobroga i lijepoga, koji oplemenjuju duπe graana, a æivotu, uz ljubav, daju smjer i smisao. VeÊ u vrijeme osnutka u grad dolaze i prvi trgovci Æidovi - Aπkenazi. Patent o vjerskoj toleranciji Josipa II. omoguÊuje im naseljavanje, iako su i dalje bili ograniËeni u odabiru zvanja. Godine 1877. osnovana je Æidovska opÊina, a prvi predsjednik bio je bjelovarski knjiæar i tiskar Jakob Fleischmann. BuduÊi da se broj Æidova poveÊavao, mala sinagoga viπe nije bila dovoljna, pa se gradi velika sinagoga u secesijskom stilu po nacrtima zagrebaËkih arhitekata Hönigsberga i Deutscha. To je najveÊa oËuvana zgrada sinagoge u Hrvatskoj, iako se viπe ne koristi kao æidovski hram. Godine 1929. u Bjelovaru je æivjelo 600 Æidova. Meu njima bilo je radnika i trgovaca, lijeËnika, odvjetnika, Ëinovnika, zastupnika, a bili su i industrijalci. Jedan od njih, Dragutin Wolf, otvorio je 1892. malu pekarnicu i ubrzo poËeo proizvoditi i kekse i vafle. Bio je temeljit i smion, odvaæio se na kupnju tada najsuvremenijih strojeva, pa je 50 radnika na dan proizvodilo 500 kg robe prvorazredne kvalitete. U rad tvrtke ukljuËili su se i sinovi, ubrzo je i naslijedili, te nazvali Tvornica keksa, dvopeka, biskvita i finih poslastica Dragutina Wolfa sinovi. Zbog nedostatka kapitala, prihvaÊaju ponudu maarske tvornice Koestlin da ue u vlasniπtvo. Nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata tvornica je nacionalizirana, a devedesetih godina 20. stoljeÊa opet privatizirana i s uspjehom posluje i danas. Potkraj srpnja 1941. godine veÊina Æidova odvedena je u logore i ubijena. Sinagoga je bila zatvorena, pretvorena u skladiπte opljaËkane æidovske imovine, a poslije je sluæila kao njemaËko vojno skladiπte. Nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata zgrada sinagoge postaje Dom kulture. U Bjelovaru danas nema mnogo Æidova, ali u njemu djeluje likovna umjetnica i autorica djeËjih slikovnica Melita Kraus, na Ëija je djela snaæno utjecala aπkenaska kultura (www.melitakraus.com) U Bjelovaru su roeni i æivjeli mnogi istaknuti pojedinci, npr. slikarica Nasta Rojc − jedna od prvih akademski obrazovanih umjetnica, Vojin BakiÊ, jedan od najboljih kipara 20. st., Æeljko Sabol, hrvatski knjiæevnik, tekstopisac i likovni kritiËar. Kulturni je æivot bogat mnogim

manifestacijama, priroda je bujna i netaknuta (oduπevit Êe vas Bilogorski turistiËki put), a uz velik gradski hotel, postoje i mali obiteljski hoteli tipa bed&breakfast. Ponuda je dobro strukturirana na stranicama turistiËke zajednice grada (www.tzbbz.hr). NeobiËno je πto je u svako godiπnje doba neka tradicionalna zanimljiva kulturna i gospodarska manifestacija. Raznolika ponuda, moguÊnost kvalitetnog smjeπtaja i lokalna gastronomska ponuda privlaËe u grad posjetitelje iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Godina poËinje Meunarodnim tjednom udaraljkaπa u sijeËnju i kao da æeli uplaπiti i otresti zimu snagom bubnjeva. Festival okuplja vrsne glazbenike iz Hrvatske i svijeta i postao je vaæno srediπte poklonika te vrste glazbe. (www.ipewfestival.com) ProljeÊe grad slavi bogatom kazaliπnom ponudom, festivalom Bjelovarski odjeci kazaliπta ili − BOK-fest, koji poËinje u travnju i uglavnom traje dva tjedna. UmjetniËki ravnatelj poznati je hrvatski glumac, roeni Bjelovarac, Goran Navojec. Cilj je u dva tjedna prikazati najkvalitetnije kazaliπne predstave u Hrvatskoj, a ujedinjuje predstave za djecu i odrasle. Prvi Bjelovarski odjeci kazaliπta odræani su 2003. godine, kad je izvedeno desetak predstava iz repertoara zagrebaËkih kazaliπta Gavelle, Kerempuha, Komedije, Kazaliπta lutaka te splitskog HNK-a. Dolazak ljeta slavi se velikom manifestacijom, koja nosi ime po carici Mariji Tereziji. Terezijana je festival koji se odræava sredinom lipnja. Pun je zabavnih, sportskih i kulturnih dogaanja. Odvija se tijekom cijelog vikenda, a poËinje petkom u 18 sati dolaskom carice Marije Terezije i povorkom pred bedeme grada Bellowara. Carica dolazi koËijom na srediπnji trg pred palisade uz pratnju konjiËke povijesne postrojbe Bjelovarski graniËari Husari 1756. Tradicija i zabava, stari obrti i fina hrana, prodajni πtandovi i mnogobrojni susreti i upoznavanja glavna su obiljeæja Terezijane, koju u prosjeku posjeti 30.000 ljudi. U to vrijeme odvija se i oku ugodna izloæba Bjelovarski salon fotografije, koji je u meuvremenu postao i meunarodan. Dipl. inž. πumarstva Æeljko Gubijan zaljubljenik je u fotografiju i svojim je fotoaparatom zabiljeæio mnoge Ëarobne trenutke πumskog æivota. Prva izloæba fotografija nosila je naziv ©uma okom πumara, a postavljena je 1998. u atriju Gradskog muzeja. Od ljepote tih fotografija mnogima je zastao dah, poveÊavao se broj posjetitelja, ali i sudionika iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Najvredniji radovi dio su postava putujuÊe izloæbe (Finska, SAD). Plodonosnu jesen pozdravljaju najviπe stoËari i ratari. Zbog jake stoËarske tradicije Bjelovar je poznat i kao Grad sira. (Tvornica Sirela znana

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bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj

restaurant academia Hidden Oasis of Intimacy in the heart of romantic Zagorje Our cuisine abides by an honest, yet modern and recognizable presentation of traditional recipes. Each one of our ingredients is prepared with passion and tells a story from our garden and local farms.

je po markama Bilogorac, Podravac i Dimsi.) Meunarodni stoËarski i gospodarski sajam, najveÊi toga tipa u Hrvatskoj, odræava se u poËetku rujna, traje tri dana, a posjeti ga oko 50.000 posjetitelja. www.bj-sajam.hr Kulturna berba poËinje u jesen DOKUart-om, festivalom profesionalnoga dokumentarnog fi lma iz Hrvatske, zemalja EU te dræava u susjedstvu RH, koji se odræava svake godine u Bjelovaru. Pokrenuli su ga 2006.g. Denis Hladiπ, Tibor Javurek i selektorica festivala Rada ©eπiÊ. Festival se odræava u poËetku listopada i traje sedam dana. Do sada je u πest godina prikazano stotinjak filmova iz 25 zemalja i 15 hrvatskih premijera. Filmove je pogledalo gotovo 8000 posjetitelja. Gostovali su poznati autori: Krsto PapiÊ, Zoran TadiÊ, Petar Krelja, Branko Schmidt, Joπko MaruπiÊ, Robert Zuber, Dalibor MataniÊ, Goran DeviÊ i drugi. Uz domaÊe, i strani autori rado dolaze u Bjelovar predstaviti svoje filmove. (www.DOKUart.hr) Advent i BoæiÊ na kontinentu se obiljeæavaju tradicionalnim boæiÊnim sajmovima. Bjelovar je grad poznate muziËke kulture, a glazbena πkola Vatroslava Lisinskog aktivna je i u organizaciji muziËkih zbivanja. BoæiÊni Gala koncert u Bjelovaru slovi za najbolji u Hrvatskoj i redovito ga prenosi i HTV. Organizira ga 60

Jazz Club Bjelovar u suradnji s TuristiËkom zajednicom grada Bjelovara (www.tzbb.hr). Na koncertu obiËno sudjeluje dvjestotinjak glazbenika, a repertoar je velikim dijelom obiljeæen nastupom inozemnih jazz i gospel pjevaËa. Bjelovar je grad u kojemu se æivi ugodno. Posjetite li ga, osjetit Êete da vrijeme teËe sporije, duπa Êe vam se odmoriti. Sporim korakom proπeÊite gradom, uæivajte u detaljima starinskih zgrada, zastanite pred Ëarima perivoja. Sjednite na klupu i promatrajte prolaznike. Poæelite li, razgledajte bogat fundus Gradskog muzeja pa popijte kavu u kavani i prelistajte novine. A popodne stavite na lea naprtnjaËu i utonite u Ëari Bilogore! n here is enough time for everything in Bjelovar − everything is well laid-out and structured, there are no crowds and no rush. Everything is within reach and easily accessible, and therefore, people socialize here during the workweek and not only on weekends, unlike larger cities that are clogged with traffic and people. Bjelovar has factories and a hospital, schools and a museum, a wealth of intact nature and many festivals organized by the citizens themselves, which have become events that attract many visitors from far away.

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The city is the centre of Bjelovar-Bilogora County and the Bjelovar-Kriæevci Diocese, located about 50 kilometres from Zagreb with a current population of 42,000. Bjelovar is a very young city − it was founded in 1756 by Empress Maria Theresa’s decree as a strong military fortress which was the headquarters of the Military Border regiments. Bjelovar was built systematically. Imagine a huge rectangle (400 m x 400 m) divided into consistently arranged streets crossing at right angles, and in the middle of the rectangle is a spacious square with the stately Catholic Church of St. Teresa of Avila. Most of the buildings were erected for military purposes, as barracks, warehouses and residences for officers and soldiers, and next to the church are two buildings from 1774 that served as a collegemonastery. The military administration invited the Piarists, Hubert and Ignatius Diviπ, Czech monks, to found a school for officers’ children, which was soon attended by other children from the city as well. At the heart of the square is one of the most beautiful parks in Croatia, which took the place of a former grassy military training ground. The park trees and the playfulness of the plantation’s French garden architecture cheer up the soul, while

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the pavilion built from BraË stone almost begs the spirit to be placid, and we are reminded of the important virtues of life by the sculptures of four saints: St. Teresa, St. George, St. Helena of the Cross and St. John of Nepomuk. Erected around the former well in 17771778 as patron saints of the Military Border regiments, they continue to offer inspiration, recourse and comfort to many. In the 1780s, Bjelovar also obtained its guild and trade fair privileges. At that time, German and Czech craftsmen started to settle in the city. The first factory was the silk workshop with 36 looms; it opened in 1785 and remained in operation until 1867, for almost 100 years! Diligence and enthusiasm, as well as strong industrial development, were facilitated by better railroad connections established in the late 19th century, and the first apprentice school was opened in 1886. In 1887, Josip Svoboda founded a meat-producing enterprise and offered the products at his own inn. Successful business resulted in the establishment of the First Bjelovar Cured Meats Factory. Steam mills were built in the late 19th century and were integrated into the joint-stock company Steam Mills Incorporated. They operated with great success, and in 1917 founded the machine factory SMEV,

which at the time employed 350 people. In 1919, Hinko Herman established a factory which today bears the name Tomo VinkoviÊ; in 1920, Adolf Vybiral established the First Bjelovar Shoe Factory, and Marko Hoffman was the owner of the leather factory Velebit. The oil factory was established on 3 August 1918 by the following shareholders with their own capital: Meixner, Kolesar, Svoboda, ÆliËar and MoËaËer, who were also the holders of the pumpkin seed oil processing patent. Pollak and Perl were the owners of the textile industry Biser. At the time, Bjelovar was fourth after Zagreb, Karlovac and Varaædin in terms of industrial power, as if it had contracted the entrepreneurial virus which allowed the city to grow and develop. At the end of World War II all business properties were nationalized, and in the 1990s some of them were taken from national hands and returned to the private owners. Some of the factories still operate with success, but others failed to adapt to the new business conditions. Factory owners created a bourgeois class which populated two villa districts; with Art Nouveau buildings boasting front yards and iron fences built at the turn of the century, fin de siècle. The children of the bourgeois studied in Vienna, Budapest and Zagreb, bringing

back to Bjelovar new customs, furniture and newspaper subscriptions. Mladen Medar, the manager of the City Museum, describes in detail the high level of their artistic design, and the museum features furniture and dishware from that era. In 1894, the Society for the Beautification of the City of Bjelovar was established. Wealthier citizens supplemented the scarce city funds with their contributions, following the ideal of good and beautiful, which ennobles the citizens’ souls and gives life, in addition to love, a sense of purpose and meaning. At the time of its establishment, the first Jewish traders − Ashkenazi − arrived in the city. Emperor Joseph II’s Edict of Religious Tolerance allowed them to settle, although they were still limited in choosing their professions. In 1877, the first Jewish Community was founded, and its first president was Bjelovar-based book-dealer and printer Jakob Fleischmann. As the number of Jews increased, the small synagogue was no longer adequate, and therefore a large Art Nouveau synagogue was built based on the designs of the Zagrebbased architects Hönigsberg and Deutsch. This is the largest preserved synagogue in Croatia, although it is no longer used as a Jewish temple. CROATIA AIRLINES

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In 1929, there were 600 Jews living in Bjelovar. Among them were workers and tradesmen, doctors, lawyers, clerks, agents and businessmen. One of them, Dragutin Wolf, opened a small bakery in 1892 and soon started producing cookies and waffles. He was meticulous and bold, and ventured to buy the most modern machines, and his 50 employees produced 500 kilograms of top-quality goods daily. His sons joined the company’s operations and soon inherited it, changing the company’s name to Factory of Cookies, Rusks, Sponge Cakes and Delicacies, Sons of Dragutin Wolf. Due to a lack of capital, they accepted the offer from the Hungarian company Koestlin to join in the ownership. After World War II, the factory was nationalized, and in the 1990s it was returned to private ownership and now continues its successful business operations. In late July 1941, the majority of Jews were taken to concentration camps and executed. The synagogue was closed down and converted to a warehouse which stored plundered Jewish property, later serving as a German military warehouse. After World War II, the synagogue was used as the Culture Centre. There are not many Jews in Bjelovar today, but it is the home of Melita Kraus, an artist and author 62

of children’s picture books, whose work is strongly influenced by the Ashkenazi culture. (www.melitakraus.com) Many other famous people were born and lived in Bjelovar, e.g. the artist Nasta Rojc, one of the first professional painters; Vojin BakiÊ, one of the best sculptors of the 20 th century; and Æeljko Sabol, Croatian author, songwriter and art critic. Bjelovar’s cultural life is rich in events, the nature is lush and intact (you will be thrilled by the Bilogora tourist road), and in addition to the large city hotel, there are small family-run bed & breakfast hotels. The offer is well presented on the city’s tourist board website (www.tzbbz.hr). It is a welcome surprise that every season has its traditional and interesting cultural or economic event. The diverse offer, the possibility for high quality accommodation and the local cuisine attract visitors from Croatia and abroad to the city. The year begins with the International Percussionists’ Week in January, as if trying to scare and drive away the winter with the power of drums. The festival brings together excellent musicians from Croatia and abroad, and has become an impor tant gathering point for lovers of this type of music. (www.ipewfestival.com)

The city celebrates spring with a rich theatrical offer, namely the festival Bjelovar Theatre Echoes or BOK-fest, beginning in April and lasting nearly two weeks. The artistic director is the famous Croatian actor, Bjelovar-born Goran Navojec. The goal is to showcase the best theatre performances in Croatia over the course of two weeks, and the festival includes shows for both children and adults. The first Bjelovar Theatre Echoes was held in 2003, when about ten shows from the repertoire of Zagreb’s theatres Gavella, Kerempuh, Komedija, the Puppet Theatre and the Croatian National Theatre in Split were presented. The advent of summer is celebrated with a big festival named after Empress Maria Theresa. Theresiana is a festival held in midJune. It is full of entertainment, sports and cultural events. It lasts for an entire weekend, starting on Friday at 6 p.m. with the arrival of Empress Maria Theresa and a procession marching to the ramparts of the City of Bellowar. The empress arrives by coach to the central square, stopping in front of the palisades, accompanied by the historical command Bjelovar Border Hussars 1756. Tradition and entertainment, ancient crafts and delicious food, trading booths and many encounters and meetings are Theresiana’s

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principal features, and the festival is visited by 30,000 people on average. At the same time, an eye-pleasing exhibition, The Bjelovar Photography Salon, which has become an international event in the meantime, also takes place. Forestry engineer Æeljko Gubijan is a photography enthusiast and his camera has captured many magical moments in the life of the forest. The first photo exhibition was entitled The Forest in the Eyes of the Forester, and was on display in 1998 in the atrium of the City Museum. The beauty of the photos left many people breathless, and the number of visitors increased, as well as the number of participants from Croatia and abroad. The most valuable works are part of a travelling exhibition (Finland, USA). Fruitful autumn is greeted mostly by cattlebreeders and farmers. Due to its strong cattlebreeding tradition, Bjelovar is also known as the City of Cheese. (The factory Sirela is famous for its brands Bilogorac, Podravac and Dimsi). The International Livestock and Business Fair, the largest of the type in Croatia, is held in early September. It lasts three days and is visited by approximately 50,000 visitors. www.bj-sajam.hr The cultural harvest begins in autumn with DOKUart, a professional documentary film 64

festival featuring works from Croatia, the EU countries and the countries neighbouring Croatia, which is held every year in Bjelovar. It was launched in 2006 by Denis Hladiπ, Tibor Javurek and the festival’s selector Rada ©eπiÊ. The festival is held in early October and lasts seven days. In the six years until now, about 100 films from 25 countries and 15 Croatian premieres have been screened. The films were seen by almost 8000 visitors. The festival’s guests have been famous film-makers: Krsto PapiÊ, Zoran TadiÊ, Petar Krelja, Branko Schmidt, Joπko MaruπiÊ, Robert Zuber, Dalibor MataniÊ, Goran DeviÊ and others. In addition to local film-makers, international ones are also happy to come to Bjelovar to present their films. www.DOKUart.hr In the continental part of the country Advent and Christmas are celebrated with traditional Christmas fairs. Bjelovar is a city with a rich music culture, and the Vatroslav Lisinski Music School takes active part in the organization of musical events. The Christmas Gala Concert in Bjelovar has a reputation for being the best in Croatia and is regularly broadcast by Croatian Television. It is organized by the Jazz Club Bjelovar, in cooperation with the Bjelovar City Tourist Board (www.tzbb.hr). Usually about 200 musicians participate in

the concert, and its repertoire is largely distinguished by performances by international jazz and gospel singers. Bjelovar is a city where life is pleasant. If you visit it, you will feel that time goes by more slowly, and your soul will have a respite. Walk unhurriedly around the city, enjoy the details of the old buildings, and take the time to relish in the charms of its gardens. Take a seat on a bench and watch people passing by. If you wish, take a look at the City Museum’s rich holdings and have a cup of coffee and browse the newspaper in a coffee house. And in the afternoon, put on a backpack and immerse yourself in Bilogora’s charms! n

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■ NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

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Piπe/By Ružica MikaËiÊ

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Split svojim posjetiteljima ne organizira umjetni i izdvojeni, samo turistima namijenjen æivot i razgledavanje, u kojima bi domaÊini æivjeli neku drugaËiju svakodnevicu. Ne, on svoje goste jednostavno uvuËe u svoj ritam æivljenja, stopi se s njima tako da se svatko veÊ nakon prvog dana osjeti kao u svojoj kuÊi. 70

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Split does not organize an artiďŹ cial and separate life that is intended for sightseeing and tourists only, where the local people live a different everyday life. No, it simply absorbs its visitors into its rhythm of life, merges with them, and therefore, from the very ďŹ rst day, everyone feels at home. CROATIA AIRLINES

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aπto je rimski imperator Dioklecijan za mjesto gradnje svoje palaËe za umirovljeniËke dane izabrao baπ pitomi zaljev obrastao u brnistru, koji se u kasnijim stoljeÊima pretvorio u danaπnju jadransku metropolu Split, zna samo on. Ali, veÊ 17 stoljeÊa koliko æivi njegova palaËa i SpliÊani u njoj, jasno je da je birao pomno i paæljivo jer pod nogama mu je bio gotovo cijeli svijet. A htio je baπ taj srediπnji sunËani dio Jadrana - koji Êe se, u viπe od tisuÊu godina dograivanja i πirenja njegova carskog doma, pretvoriti u mediteranski velegrad, πiroka srca i tople juænjaËke duπe. Split - vjeËno mlad u svojim stoljeÊima starosti. Takav je Split danas, osobita i od svih drugaËija turistiËka metropola Jadrana. Teπko je kazati ostavljaju li na danaπnje posjetitelje grada podno Marjana jaËi dojam autentiËni zidovi carske palaËe stari viπe od tisuÊljeÊa, sfinga koja je proputovala mora kako bi se skrasila na splitskom Peristilu, Jupiterov hram i Grgur Ninski, Marko MaruliÊ… Ili pak ovovjeki simboli poput stadiona na Poljudu, marjanskih plaæa, picigina na BaËvicama usred zime, lijepe djevojke i javni prostori koji uvijek vriju æivotom…. I ne treba Ëuditi da turisti, obilazeÊi Split, nerijetko pitaju: Gdje je Dioklecijanova palaËa? Jer, oËekuju vidjeti neku izdvojenu graevinu i poneki korintski stup ili kapitel, a dolaze u æivi grad sa srcem u zidinama palaËe. Zbog svega toga, ne smije se grad s najbolje oËuvanom antiËkom carskom palaËom u svijetu obilaziti u æurbi. Nipoπto. PromaÊi Êe vam tada mnoge tihe ljepote u njemu poput razigranih i otmjenih proËelja, tiramola sa svjeæe opranim rubljem meu njima, ukraπenih kamenih prozora s posudama cvijeÊa, s kojih SpliÊani tisuÊljeÊima gledaju u svijet i svijet u njih. Sve to najbolje se vidi ako se ue u onaj drugi, domaÊi Split, koji neovisno o turistiËkim kretanjima æivi svoju svakodnevicu što je katkad jednako atraktivna i zanimljiva kao i njegovi spomenici svjetske kulturne baπtine. Split se turistiËkim oËima najËeπÊe gleda izvana, jer sve se njegovo posluæuje gostima kao na pladnju, sve je dostupno, otvoreno, blisko. On svojim posjetiteljima ne organizira umjetni i izdvojeni, samo turistima namijenjen æivot i razgledavanje, u kojima bi domaÊini æivjeli neku drugaËiju svakodnevicu. Ne, on svoje goste jednostavno uvuËe u svoj ritam æivljenja, stopi se s njima tako da se svatko veÊ nakon prvog dana osjeti kao u svojoj kuÊi. I u tome je osobitost turistiËkog Splita, u kojemu gosti mogu birati hoÊe li samo hodati uza stoljeÊa povijesti i umjetnosti, koja se ocrtavaju na njegovim plemiÊkim palaËama, ulicama i

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trgovima, ili pak zaviriti u bogate πkrinje muzeja, galerija i crkava kako bi bolje razumjeli poneki djeliÊ te slojevite povijesti. U svakome od odabira neÊe pogrijeπiti, jer na ulicama Êe ih, uz baπtinu nadohvat ruke, doËekati i veseli domaÊini s mnogo zanimljivih dogaanja, a u tihim izloæbenim dvoranama muzeja i galerija nataloæena povijest. A jedno i drugo napunit Êe im duπu. Kakav je taj drugi Split koji uæurbanim turistima nerijetko promakne? Æivot na otvorenim i javnim prostorima jedno je od obiljeæja grada koji ima sreÊu da u svim godiπnjim dobima pruæa domaÊinima i gostima ugodu osunËanih i od vjetra zaklonjenih uvala i πetnica. Ta prednost oblikovala je stil æivota u Splitu tijekom cijele godine, pa se u njemu sve dogaa na - otvorenome. »ak i u uskim kalama, poput one koja se zove Pusti me proÊ’ i zapravo je najmanja ulica na svijetu, a zaobilazi Jupiterov hram. DugaËka je tek nekoliko metara, a πiroka toliko da se u njoj ne moæete ni s kime mimoiÊi. Æivot poËinje pulsirati u mediteransku zoru kada kamenim ploËama srednjovjekovnih kaleta odzvanjaju glasovi dostavljaËa koji æure prema stoljetnoj kamenoj zgradi ribarnice u povijesnoj jezgri. To je jedina poluotvorena ribarnica na svijetu na Ëijim mramornim ploËama, unatoË tonama svjeæe ribe i delikatesa iz mora, nikad neÊete vidjeti muhe! I to zato πto je splitska ribarnica sagraena 1890. godine u neposrednoj blizini izvora sumpora obliænjih Toplica u Marmontovoj ulici, Ëiji miris i danas tjera kukce. Osim πto je mjesto svakodnevne opskrbe, ribarnica je veÊ 120 godina i mjesto susreta, razgovora i razmjene informacija domaÊeg stanovniπtva. Njihova se jutarnja uæurbanost vrlo leæerno mimoilazi s teπkim koracima posljednjih gostiju koji se iz noÊnog provoda vraÊaju u neki od dvadesetak boutique-hotela u povijesnoj jezgri. I tako poËinje splitski dan, neobiËno i spokojno, spajajuÊi turizam sa æivotom domaÊih. Samo nekoliko stotina metara dalje, kad se proe preko Narodnog trga u povijesnoj jezgri i zakoraËi kroz Æeljezna vrata nekadaπnje carske palaËe, kamene uliËice dovest Êe vas do Srebrnih vrata, iza kojih je æivopisna gradska trænica. Taj trbuh grada, koji prπti u vatrometu boja i mirisa sezonskog vrta na otvorenome, prepun je svjeæeg voÊa i povrÊa, domaÊih proizvoda i cvijeÊa sa sela i otoka u blizini grada. Tu Êete naÊi prve mimoze usred zime, prve procvale vrbe u proljeÊe, domaÊu viπnju i treπnju ubranu tog jutra… A da bi se u gradu podno Marjana πto bolje stopili s domaÊinima, valja znati kako je ritual kasnojutarnje kave ili Ëaja na nekome od gradskih trgova i πetnica dio svakodnevice onih koji su slobodni u to vrijeme. NajveÊi

prostor za dnevni boravak svih SpliÊana jest Riva, jedinstvena i prostrana πetnica uz juæni zid Dioklecijanove palaËe, koja, u nizu kavana i café-barova, odmoriπta, klupa i kamenih zidiÊa meu palmama uz more, nudi neponovljiv pogled na treÊu mediteransku luku po broju putnika. To najveÊe osunËano πetaliπte na Jadranu jedinstveno je okupljaliπte SpliÊana i prava slika æivota sa stilom njegovih stanovnika. U svim godiπnjim dobima ona je mjesto πetnje, glazbe, odmora, na njoj se komentira, protestira, podræava. Ona je prostor velikih splitskih radosti i slavlja, koja najËeπÊe prireuju izvrsni sportaπi toga grada. Jer, nije Split sluËajno najsportskiji grad na svijetu. Vidi se to ponajbolje u KuÊi slave splitskog sporta, koja pokazuje da je kroz povijest Ëak 161 sportaπ iz toga grada sudjelovao na olimpijskim igrama, a njih 60 na svoju se Rivu vratilo s olimpijskim odliËjima, Ëime se moæe pohvaliti malo koji grad u svijetu sliËne veliËine. A odmah iza toga sunËanog proËelja grada-palaËe, uske uliËice povijesne jezgre za samo nekoliko koraka uvuÊi Êe vas u svoje srednjovjekovne labirinte malih trgovina, galerija, boutiquea, antikvarnica u kojima Êete naÊi sve πto poæelite ponijeti kao uspomenu iz toga grada. Umjetninu, suvenir ili pak navijaËki πal Hajduka, oboæavanog nogometnog stogodiπnjaka koji je sportski simbol grada. Sve to dio je kolorita u kojemu svakako valja naÊi vremena i za neku od predstava u Hrvatskome narodnom kazaliπtu. Jer, nije ono tek lijepa zgrada iz 1893. godine, nego i mjesto u kojemu, uz malo sreÊe, moæete pogledati Ëak dvije operete Ive TijardoviÊa skladane Splitu u Ëast - Mala Floramye i Splitski akvarel. Valja uÊi pod svodove i posluπati zvona katedrale, dodirnuti egipatsku sfingu na carskom trgu pred njom i uhvatiti za palac bronËani spomenik biskupa Grgura Ninskog za sreÊu. Ne popeti se bijelim kamenim stubama na Marjan, jedinstvenu park-πumu s vidikovcima, crkvicama i prekrasnim skrovitim uvalama i plaæama u podnoæju, prikratilo bi vas za neponovljiv uæitak zelenog srca grada. Na Marjan se u stoljetnoj hladovini moæe i na biciklu, trËati, πetati, kupati se i tijelo ispuniti snagom za nove izazove. Split ima Ëak 14 kilometara ureenih javnih plaæa, od kojih se na onoj najpoznatijoj na BaËvicama, u srcu grada, vijori i europska Plava zastava kao znak ËistoÊe i brige o okoliπu. A kad duπa puna ljepote poæeli poËastiti nepce, svojim brojnim restoranima, kavanama, zalogajnicama i dalmatinskim konobama Split je posljednjih godina postao mjesto gastrodoæivljaja. Uz malo πetnje, u srcu grada moæe se naÊi ukusan i dobar obrok za svaËiji dæep, od vrhunskih slow-food restorana, do kono-

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ba Velog Varoπa, zalogajnica i mjesta puËke domaÊe hrane, neodoljive mnogim europskim gostima, ali i onima s drugih kontinenata. U veËernjim satima noÊni se æivot mladih odvija na priobalju u Poljudu s barovima i diskoklubovima ili u uvalama BaËvica, OvËica, Zente i Ænjana, gdje se do zore iskuπavaju pripravci vrhunskih cocktail-majstora na otvorenome uz glazbu i zabavne programe... No, i srediπte grada æivi do sitnih sati na svojim malim trgovima, uliËicama Geta i uskim prolazima povijesne jezgre koja se u noÊnim satima pretvara u veliki bar, osvijetljen bakljama i uronjen u zvuke glazbe. Tek nekoliko stotina metara dalje, na Peristilu, sjedi se na kamenim ploËama carskog trga uza zvuke gitare i πansona, a pod svodovima tisuÊljetnog Vestibula, predvorja carskog stana, odzvanja klapska pjesma. Ona odzvanja do ulaza u Podrume palaËe, koji se u prvom tjednu rujna pretvaraju u bajkoviti cvjetni vrt Meunarodnog praznika cvijeÊa, a ove godine Split je tada domaÊin Europskoga prvenstva mladih florista (EUROFLEURS) iz dvadesetak zemalja Europske unije. U ljetnim podnevima i veËerima carski Podrumi postaju oaza svjeæine i pozornica koncerata folklora i klasiËne glazbe. MeπtroviÊev kaπtelet, Prokurative, Sustipan, Salona… mjesta su na kojima se umjetnost stapa s povijeπÊu u jedinstven spoj svjetskih opernih produkcija, baleta i drama. Za svakog poneπto u Splitu − gradu velikih dogaaja, kako se u svijetu promiËe taj tisuÊljetni urbani mladiÊ. Æivi grad koji je izrastao u palaËi i pretvorio je u srce danaπnje metropole Jadrana, dat Êe vam mnogo razloga da u njemu uæivate, bez obzira na to koliko vremena za to imali. Samo mu pruæite priliku i osvojit Êe vas. ■ nly the Roman emperor Diocletian knows why he chose to build his palace, where he intended to spend his retirement, near the gentle bay overgrown with broom that in later centuries would be transformed into the Adriatic metropolis of Split. However, taking into account that his palace has existed for more than 17 centuries, and that the people of Split have lived within it during that time, it is clear that his choice was a careful and thorough one, as he had most of the world at his feet. He had set his mind on the central, sunny part of the Adriatic which, in the course of over 1000 years of rebuilding and expanding his imperial home, would turn into a Mediterranean metropolis, with an open heart and a warm southern soul. Split − centuries old, yet eternally young. This is the Split of today; an extraordinary Adriatic metropolis distinct from all the others.

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It is difficult to say whether today’s visitors to the city below Marjan are more impressed by the authentic walls of the imperial palace dating back more than a millennium, the sphinx which has travelled across several seas to find its home on Split’s Peristyle, Jupiter’s Temple and Gregorius of Nin, Marko MaruliÊ... Or perhaps they are impressed by the modern symbols like the stadium on Poljud, the Marjan beaches, the traditional beach ball game picigin on the BaËvice beach in the middle of winter, the beautiful girls and public spaces which are always full of life.... It is not surprising that tourists visiting Split often ask: Where is Diocletian’s Palace? This is because they expect to see a separate building and a few Corinthian columns or capitals, but rather they encounter a living city, with its heart within the palace walls. Therefore, the city with the best preserved ancient imperial palace in the world should not be seen in haste. Absolutely not. You would miss so much of the quiet beauty in it, such as the playful and stately facades, the clothes lines with freshly washed linen among them, the decorated stone windows with flower pots through which the citizens of Split have looked out at the world for centuries, and the world has looked in at them. All of this is best seen when you enter the other, familial Split, which lives its everyday life independently of tourist activity and can be as attractive and interesting as its world cultural heritage monuments. Through tourist’s eyes, Split is usually observed from the outside, as everything it contains is served to its guests on a platter; everything is accessible, open, close. The city does not organize an artificial and separate life that is intended for sightseeing and tourists only, where the local people live a different everyday life. No, it simply absorbs its visitors into its rhythm of life, merges with them, and therefore, from the very first day, everyone feels at home. This is the uniqueness of tourism in Split, where visitors can choose whether to merely walk along the centuries of history and art depicted in its aristocratic palaces, streets and squares, or take a peek into the rich treasure chests of the museums, galleries and churches in order to better understand a fragment of this complex history. Any choice is the right one because, along with having cultural heritage at their fingertips, in the streets they will be welcomed by the locals who offer many interesting events, while in the museums’ quiet exhibition halls they will encounter layers of history. And both will fill their souls. What is the other Split that the hurried tourists often miss? Life in open and public spaces is one of the characteristics of the city that

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has the good fortune of providing both the locals and guests with the pleasures of sunny and wind-sheltered coves and promenades throughout every season of the year. This advantage shapes the style of life in Split throughout the entire year, and therefore everything here happens − outdoors. Even in the narrow streets, such as the one that abuts Jupiter’s Temple called Pusti me proÊ’ (Let me pass), which is in fact the narrowest street in the world. It is only a few meters long and so narrow that two people cannot pass each other. Life begins to pulsate in the Mediterranean morning when the medieval stone streets echo with the sounds of suppliers rushing towards the centuries-old building of the fish market in the very heart of the city. This is the only semi-open fish market in the world on whose marble slabs, despite tons of fresh fish and other sea delicacies, you will never see a single fly! This is because the Split fish market was built in 1890 in the immediate vicinity of the sulphur springs of the nearby spa in Marmontova Street, whose odour still repels insects today. In addition to being a place to get daily supplies, for 120 years the fish market has also been a place for locals to meet, chat and exchange information. Their morning bustle seems quite leisurely compared to the heavy steps of the last guests returning from a wild night on the town to one of the twenty boutique hotels in the historic centre. And so begins a day in Split, strangely and serenely joining tourism with the local life. Only a few hundred meters further, as you pass through Narodni Trg (People’s Square) in the historic centre and step through the Iron Gate of the former imperial palace, stone streets will lead you to the Silver Gate, behind which is the lively city market. This belly of the city, bursting with the fiery colours and aromas of a seasonal outdoor garden, is filled with fresh fruits and vegetables, homegrown produce and flowers from the villages and islands near the city. Here you will find the first mimosas in the middle of winter, the first flowering willows in spring, home-grown cherries and sour cherries which were picked that very morning... And in order to blend in with the locals in the city below Marjan as much as possible, you should know that the ritual of late-morning coffee or tea in one of the city’s squares and promenades is a part of the daily life for everyone who is free at that time of day. Split’s inhabitants’ largest sitting-room is Riva (Waterfront), a unique and spacious promenade along the southern wall of Diocletian’s Palace which, with its long stretch of coffee shops and cafes, resting areas, benches and stone

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walls among palm trees near the sea, offers an unforgettable view of the third largest Mediterranean port based on the number of passengers. This sunny promenade, the largest on the Adriatic coast, is a unique meeting point for all the citizens of Split, and an authentic image of the lifestyle of its inhabitants. Throughout every season, it is the place to take a walk, listen to music, relax, exchange comments, to protest and support. It is also the venue of Split’s great joys and festivities, which are usually organized to celebrate the city’s exceptional athletes. It is not an accident that Split is the sportiest city in the world. This is best reflected in the Split Sports Hall of Fame which shows that, throughout history, as many as 161 athletes from the city have participated in the Olympics, while 60 of them have returned to their Riva with Olympic medals, a success which only a handful of cities of similar size around the world can boast. And just behind the sunny facade of the palace city, in only a few small steps, the narrow streets of the historic centre will draw you into its medieval labyrinth of small shops, galleries, boutiques and antique stores, where you will find every kind of souvenir of the city; a piece of art, a souvenir or a scarf with the symbol of Hajduk, the adored 100 year old soccer club which is the city’s sports symbol. All this is part of the scenery, in which you should certainly find 92

the time to see a performance at the Croatian National Theatre. It is not merely a beautiful building built in 1893, but a venue where, with any luck, you can catch two of the operettas by Ivo TijardoviÊ composed as tributes to Split − Little Floramye and The Split Aquarelle. You should enter the vaults of the Cathedral and listen to its bells, touch the Egyptian sphinx on the imperial square in front of it, and rub the big toe of the monument of Bishop Gregorius of Nin for good luck. Not climbing the white stone stairway to Marjan, a unique forest park with gazebos, small churches and beautiful hidden coves and beaches, would rob you of the unforgettable pleasure of the green heart of the city. On Marjan, in the shade of centuries-old trees, you can bike, jog, walk, swim and replenish your body with the strength for new challenges. Split is framed by as many as 14 km of well kept public beaches, the most famous of which is the one at BaËvice in the heart of the town, where you can see the European Blue Flag waving as a sign of cleanliness and care for the environment. And when your soul is full of beauty and you wish to treat your palate as well, you can be sure to do this in Split since in recent years the city has become a venue of gourmet experiences with its many restaurants, coffee shops, snack bars and Dalmatian taverns.

After a short walk, the city centre offers tasty and good meals for every budget, from high quality slow-food restaurants to the taverns in the Veli Varoπ part of town, to snack bars and places offering local folk cuisine which are irresistible to many European guests, as well as those from other continents. In the evening hours, the nightlife for the young takes place on the waterfront at Poljud, with many bars and disco clubs, or in the coves of BaËvice, OvËice, Zenta and Ænjan, where drinks prepared by top cocktail masters can be tasted until dawn, along with music and entertainment outdoors. However, the city centre is also alive until the wee hours in its small squares, the streets of Geto and the small passages of the historical centre, which at night transform into a large bar, illuminated by torches and immersed in the sounds of music. Only a few hundred meters away, on Peristyle, people sit on the stone pavement of the imperial square enjoying the sounds of guitars and chansons, while under the vaults of the 1000 year old Vestibule, the foyer of the imperial apartments, a cappella klapa singing resonates. It resonates all the way to the entrance to the Palace’s basements, which in the first week of September transform into a fairy-tale flower garden of the International Flower Show. This year at that time Split will host the European Young Florists Championship (EUROFLEURS), with participants from around 20 countries of the European Union. On summer afternoons and evenings, the imperial basements become an oasis of freshness and the stage for folk and classical music concerts. Kaπtelet MeπtroviÊ, Prokurative, Sustipan and Salona are the places where art merges with history into a unique blend of world class opera productions, ballets and plays. The city is promoted around the world with the slogan Split − The City of Great Events and indeed everyone will find something of interest here. The living city that had sprung from within a palace, transforming it into the heart of today’s Adriatic metropolis, will give you plenty of reasons to enjoy it, no matter how much time you have there. Just give it a chance and it will capture you. ■

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Piše/By Fea Vukić Fotografije/Photos Nenad Reberšak

oπ do prije koju godinu prosjeËno miπljenje o Den Haagu variralo je izmeu miran i dosadan, odnosno uklapalo se u stereotipnu predodæbu o gradu u kojemu je dræavni parlament i kraljica te gdje se moæe lijepo i mirno studirati. Svi su zadovoljni i graanski situirani, tu su razliËite nacionalne i internacionalne javne i privatne institucije i − kraj. Danas je sve drugaËije, a u osnovi tri su razloga za tu veliku promjenu slike grada na obali Sjevernog mora. Ali, nisu te promjene sluËajne ni od juËer, a tko je znao sa senzibilnim pristupom Ëitati urbanu pozicioniranost palaËe kraljice Beatrix u downtownu, prostoru turistiËke i trgovaËke ponude, mogao je naslutiti da Êe Den Haag uskoro poduzeti i neki ozbiljniji korak prema manje konvencionalnoj i neformalnioj slici u javnosti. Joπ negdje u poËetku druge polovice dvijetisuÊitih ozbiljni su mjeraËi i pratitelji trendova upozoravali da Den Haag polako ali pouzdano postaje sve zanimljivije city break odrediπte, osobito za putnike na letovima za Amsterdam, od kojega je udaljen tek pedesetak kilometara. Svi æeljni nekoliko gradskih atrakcija mogu na jedan ili viπe dana zadovoljiti oËekivanja, a opet u jedinstvenoj prirodnoj i kulturnoj postavci grada izmeu poldera, gustih parkova i πuma te nepregledno dugaËke obale mora. Ta tri razloga promjene, gledano kronoloπki unatrag, pomalo slijede i novu filozofiju komunikacije grada, u kojoj je prije nekoliko godina glavni motiv rode zamijenjen njeænim papirnatim zmajem koji se uzdiæe na mnogim mjestima u gradu, od vijeÊnice do zastava na trgovima. Nova strategija stvaranja identiteta grada veÊ se prepoznaje i izvan fiziËkog teritorija. Tako je potkraj proπle godine www.lonelyplanet.com pozvao Ëitatelje da nipoπto ne propuste posjetiti jedno od sljedeÊih low-profile Ëuda − Evain, Vilamoura, Toledo, Dresden, Dubrovnik, Antwerpen, Lecce, Ras al-Khaimah, Philadelphia i ∑ Den Haag. Ta odrediπta nisu na vrhu posjeÊenosti niti imaju izrazitu vidljivost po cijenama, ali prema miπljenju autoritetnog

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portala, nude neπto novo i drukËije u odnosu na ustaljenu predodæbu. S takvom preporukom, dakle, moæe se zaputiti u grad u koji je teæe stiÊi zrakoplovom, ali amsterdamski Schipol je doista blizu, kao i veÊina drugih nizozemskih, veÊih i manjih gradova koje obilazite vozeÊi se po Randstadtu, jednoj od najguπÊe naseljenih i ekonomski najjaËih regija u svijetu. Boravite li u Den Haagu, lako je otiÊi na jednodnevni izlet u Rotterdam, Delft ili se Ëak odvesti do Bruxellesa. Izvrsna pozicija grada bila je poticajna i za gradnju, joπ od trinaestog stoljeÊa, pa je u oæujku 2011. iz tiska izaπao i prvi arhitektonski vodiË po Den Haagu u nakladi ugledne kuÊe 010 Publishers. Knjiga upozorava na tristotinjak atrakcija u gradu, od predmodernih sakralnih i profanih graevina, preko graanskih kuÊa devetnaestoga i dvadesetog stoljeÊa, sve do modernistiËke arhitekture dvadesetih i tridesetih, kao i pedesetih godina. Tu su, dakako, i klasici - Berlageov Gemeentemuseum, a i recentnija ostvarenja koja potpisuju Aldo van Eyck, Rem Koolhaas ili Richard Meier. Zanimljivo je a i tipiËno za grad da knjiga predstavlja i komunalnu opremu kao i pojedine urbane situacije. Sve to upozorava na nove razloge zaπto bi trebalo doÊi u Den Haag. U trinaestom stoljeÊu danaπnji je grad utemeljio grof Holandije i kralj NjemaËke Vilim II., koji je tada, u πumi blizu Sjevernog mora, sagradio dvorac, no prije krunidbe poginuo je u bitki. SaËuvani dijelovi dvorca zovu se Ridderzaal (Viteπka dvorana) i joπ su u uporabi za protokolarne dogaaje. Holandski grofovi poslije su se koristili Den Haagom kao svojim upravnim srediπtem. Des Graven Hage doslovno znaËi Grofova æivica ili Grofov privatni posjed. Dogovorom snaænih gradova Holandije poput Leidena, Delfta i Dordrechta tada mali i nevaæni Den Haag izabran je za upravno srediπte. Ta odluka nije mijenjana stoljeÊima i stoga je Den Haag do danas ostao vladino sjediπte, ali ne i sluæbeni glavni grad. Den Haag je napokon sluæbeno proglaπen gradom za francuske okupacije 1806., bitno kasnije od ostalih nizozemskih gradova pa

Nizozemska metropola polako ali pouzdano mijenja javnu sliku o sebi − do juËer grad javne uprave i mirnoga graanskog æivota postaje sve viπe mjesto kreativne industrije i visoke razine turistiËke usluge. Slowly but surely the Dutch metropolis is changing its public image: not too long ago it was only known as the seat of public administration where people led an uneventful bourgeois life. Nowadays, The Hague is slowly reinventing itself as a city bursting with creative industry and tourism services at the highest level. stoga danas nema veliku staru jezgru kao obliænji Leiden i Delft. Poπto je vlada poslije 1850. godine poËela imati veÊu ulogu u nizozemskom druπtvu, Den Haag se brzo proπirio. Stariji dijelovi grada danas potjeËu iz 19. i ranog 20. stoljeÊa. Grad je pretrpio velika oπteÊenja tijekom Drugoga svjetskog rata, a u jednom trenutku u poslijeratnom razdoblju postao najveÊe europsko gradiliπte. Tada se proπirio na jugozapad, a razoreni dijelovi brzo su obnovljeni i broj stanovnika je oko 1970. dosegao viπe od pola milijuna. CROATIA AIRLINES

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U sedamdesetim i osamdesetim godinama proπlog stoljeÊa uglavnom se bjelaËki srednji sloj stanovniπtva preselio u predgraa kao πto su Voorburg, Leidschendam, Rijswijk i, najviπe od svih, u Zoetermeer. Migracija iz srediπta grada uzrokovala je podjelu na osiromaπeno srediπte i bogata predgraa, a pokuπaji ukljuËivanja dijelova predgraa u administrativno podruËje Den Haaga bili su promjenjiva uspjeha. Ipak, u devedesetima je, uz pristanak nizozemskog parlamenta, Den Haag uspio pripojiti znaËajna podruËja susjednih gradova, u kojima su sagraena ili se joπ grade nova stambena podruËja. Gradski je æivot usredotoËen oko Hofvijvera i Binnenhofa, gdje se nalazi parlament. Den Haag je najveÊi nizozemski grad na obali Sjevernog mora. Gradsko podruËje obuhvaÊa dva priobalna gradiÊa: glavno obalno odmaraliπte Scheveningen u sjeverozapadnom dijelu grada omiljeno je odrediπte za turiste i izlazak mladih. Scheveningen je najposjeÊenije priobalno mjesto u Beneluksu, s deset milijuna posjetitelja na godinu, a domaÊi i gosti ondje rado sudjeluju u New Years’ Dive blagdanskom kupanju (http://www.denhaag.nl/en/ residents/to/New-Years-Dive-1-January. htm). Mnogi, pa Ëak i Nizozemci, smatraju Scheveningen odvojenim gradom, iako je zapravo jedan od osam denhaaπkih okruga. Drugo priobalno odmaraliπte Den Haaga jest Kijkduin na jugozapadu. InaËe, za upotpunjenje kulturnog profila grada nije nebitno za starije fanove podsjetiti da je kultni glam rock pop−sastav Golden Earring nastao upravo ovdje, a to moæete provjeriti u nostalgiËnim shopovima na velikome molu u Scheveningenu. Od kulturnih institucija svakako vrijedi posjetiti Madurodam, minijaturni grad koji odraæava izgled Nizozemske (http://www.madurodam. nl/en/discover-the-park/Begin-the-discovery/), preureen 2012. godine. Mauritshuis izlaæe mnoge slike Johannesa Vermeera (Djevojka s bisernom nauπnicom) i Rembrandta van Rijna (poznati Sat anatomije doktora Tulpa) i Paulusa Pottera. Svakako treba vidjeti Kraljevsko kazaliπte i Nationaal Toneel-group na Korte Voorhoutu, Gemeentemuseum s velikom zbirkom slika nizozemskog slikara Pieta Mondriana i drugih modernih umjetnika te Muzej H.M. Eschera u bivπoj Kraljevskoj palaËi na Lange Voorhoutu. Panorama Mesdag cilindriËna je panoramska slika, 14 metara visoka i 120 metara duga, koja prikazuje Den Haag i Scheveningen u 19. stoljeÊu, autora Hendrika Willema Mesdaga (http:// panorama-mesdag.com/home?id=920#). Predstavljena je tako da daje iluziju gledanja stvarnog prizora, a ne slike. Napokon, tu je

Lucent Theatre - domaÊin u Nederlands Dans Theatreu, ili NDT-u, druæini suvremenog plesa, a zgradu je projektirao nizozemski arhitekt Rem Koolhaas 1988. godine. The Independent nedavno je proglasio preureen hotel Hilton u Zeestraatu najzanimljivijim mjestom za odsjedanje u Den Haagu. No, kraÊi ili dulji boravak nije problem organizirati u zaista internacionalnoj atmosferi grada, pa tako postoje mnogi web sajtovi koji mogu pomoÊi u orijentaciji gradom, turistima i onima koji Êe dulje ostati zbog posla, primjerice www.thehagueonline.com. A za gastronomiju i veËernje izlaske svakako vrijedi konzultirati www.denhaag.nl/en/visitors/restaurantsand-nightlife.htm. Srediπte je grada prepuno restorana sa svim tipovima kuhinje i barova za klijentelu srednje i starije generacije, a mlai, osobito æeljni vikend zabave, svakako bi trebali odabrati neki od klubova u Scheveningenu. Ako ste za izlet izvan grada, svakako valja preporuËiti voænju autocestom do πezdesetak kilometara udaljenog sela Marken, na poluotoku, s mnogim vrlo dobro saËuvanim primjerima drvene arhitekture s poËetka dvadesetog stoljeÊa i prekrasnim vedutama obalnog krajolika sjeverne Nizozemske. I na kraju, razlog treÊi, u Den Haagu sjediπte je jednoga od najznaËajnijih programa Europske unije u podruËju kreativnih industrija - Design and Governance, koji bi za deset godina trebao stvoriti identitet svih elemenata uprave i izvrπne vlasti ujedinjene Europe. Nedvojbeno Êe i aktivnosti u sklopu tog programa znaËajno utjecati na percepciju grada na obali Sjevernog mora. n t was only a few years ago that the common public perception of The Hague alternated between quiet and boring. In other words, the image of the city reflected the quintessential stereotype: it fit the bill as the seat of the state parliament and home to the queen; a place where students could lead an uneventful life and follow their academic pursuits in peace and quiet. Everybody seemed to be happy and comfortably welloff; arguably, the city was home to various national and international public institutions and private enterprises, but that was where the story ended. Everything is different today. Three main reasons underlie the dramatic new developments which have altered the image of the city on the shores of the North Sea. The changes, however, did not happen haphazardly or indeed overnight. Those who had the sensibility for understanding the urban positioning of the Queen Beatrix’s Palace in the downtown district, the main area of tourist

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and commercial activities, could anticipate that The Hague was soon to take a serious step towards creating a less conventional and less formal public image. Some time at the beginning of the second millennium, astute monitors and followers of trends drew the public’s attention to The Hague, whose profile was rising as an intriguing city break destination, especially among passengers landing at Amsterdam airport which is less than 50 kilometres away. The city can satisfy the expectations of those looking for urban attractions that can be seen in one day; the exploit, however, can easily stretch over several days in the unique natural and cultural environment of a conurbation comfortably nestled among polders, adorned with lush parks and forests, and flanked by an almost endlessly long sea shore. From a chronological point of view, the three reasons underlying the change in the city’s image reflect a new philosophy regarding the way the city should communicate with the public. A few years ago the city’s main symbol, the stork, was replaced with the kind-hearted paper dragon which now adorns numerous places in the city, including the city hall and the flags that may be seen fluttering in its squares. In the meantime, the new strategy which has been applied to the creation of the city’s new identity has been recognized beyond its physical territory. Thus, towards the end of last year, the tourist portal at www. lonelyplanet.com urged its readers not to miss the opportunity to visit one of the following low-profile wonders - Evian, Vilamoura, Toledo, Dresden, Dubrovnik, Antwerp, Lecce, Ras al-Khaimah, Philadelphia and The Hague. According to this portal with an unquestionable clout in the tourism industry, these destinations, known neither for the highest visitors’ figures nor indeed for their prominent visibility in terms of prices, offer something new and quite different from the conventional reputation they enjoy. Relying on this authoritative recommendation, let us head for the city which, admittedly, is not easily accessible by air. But Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport is really close, and so are many other smaller and larger Dutch cities in Randstadt, one of the most densely populated and economically strongest regions in the world. It is quite easy to take a day excursion to Rotterdam, Delft or even Brussels from The Hague. The city’s excellent location has been conducive to development ever since the 13th century. In support of that fact, in March 2011, the first architectural guidebook of The Hague was published by the prestigious 010 Publishers 100

to highlight as many as 300 of its attractions, including pre-modern sacral and profane buildings, bourgeois houses from the 19 th and 20 th centuries, as well as the modern architecture of the 1920s, 1930s and 1950s. As one would expect, a book of this format also features classics such as Berlage’s Gemeentemuseum, as well as more recent designs by Aldo van Eyck, Rem Koolhaas and Richard Meier. It is both interesting and quite typical of this city that the book also features communal infrastructures and particular urban situations, all of which provide new reasons to visit The Hague. The city was founded in the 13th century by the Count of Holland and the King of Germany, Willem 2nd, who built a palace not far from the North Sea but was killed in a battle before the coronation. The remains of the original palace are known as the Ridderzaal (The Knights’ Hall) and are still used for protocol events. Subsequently, Dutch counts continued to use The Hague as their administrative centre. Des Graven Hage literally means The Count’s Hedge or The Count’s Private Property. Powerful Dutch cities such as Leiden, Delft and Dordrecht agreed that the small and hitherto unimportant Hague would indeed become their permanent administrative centre. That decision has not been changed for centuries, which is why The Hague remains the seat of the government but not the official capital. The Hague was ultimately officially chartered as a city during French occupation, in 1806, much later than other Dutch cities. This is why it does not have an important old nucleus, unlike nearby Leiden or Delft. The Hague started growing and spreading very fast after 1850, as the government started playing a more prominent role in Dutch society. The older parts of the city originate from the 19 th and the early part of the 20 th centuries. The city suffered major destruction during World War II, and at some point after the war it became the biggest building site in Europe. It was at that time that it spread south-westwards while the war-affected areas were quickly reconstructed, so that around 1970 the city’s population grew to over half a million inhabitants. In the 1970s and 1980s, an urban population, predominantly white, moved to suburbs such as Voorburg, Leidschendam, Rijswijk and most of them to Zoetermeer. Migration from the centre resulted in a division into the impoverished city centre on the one hand and affluent suburbs on the other. Attempts to integrate parts of the suburbs into the administrative territory of The Hague had

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mixed success. However, in the 1990s, with the approval of the Dutch Parliament, The Hague managed to integrate substantial parts of the neighbouring towns, where new residential areas had been developed or were still being developed. The city’s life is concentrated around the buildings of the Parliament at Hofvijver and in Binnenhof. The Hague is the biggest Dutch city on the shores of the North Sea. Its urban area encompasses two coastal townships: one is Scheveningen, the main seaside resort northwest of the city, a popular holidaymakers’ destination and an equally popular nightlife hotspot for younger generations. With a staggering 10 million visitors a year Scheveningen is the most visited coastal town in Benelux, where both the locals and visitors gladly partake in the big New Years’ North Sea Dive (http://www.denhaag.nl/ en/residents/to/New-Years-Dive-1-January. htm). Many, including the Dutch, consider Scheveningen a separate town, although it is one of the eight districts of The Hague. The second most popular beach resort is Kijkduin, southwest of The Hague. The city’s cultural profile would not be complete without reminding somewhat older fans that the cult glam rock and pop band Golden Earring was born here. The wares in the nostalgia shops in the large Scheveningen shopping mall still bear testimony to that. Cultural highlights which certainly merit a visit include Madurodam, a miniature city which features the best known Dutch attractions presented on a small scale (http:// www.madurodam.nl/en/discover-the-park/ Begin-the-discovery/). The park very recently got a makeover in 2012. The Mauritshuis Museum showcases paintings by Johannes Vermeer, (including The Girl with a Pearl Earring), Rembrandt van Rijn (including the

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famous Dr. Tulp’s Anatomy Lesson), and Paulus Potter among others. The Royal Theatre and the Nationaal Toneel-Group in Korte Voorhout are also worth a visit, and so is the Gemeentemuseum, which features a large collection of paintings by Dutch painter Piet Mondriaan and other modern artists. Another must-visit is the H.M. Escher Museum housed in the former Royal Palace in Lange Voorhout. Quite a popular attraction is the so-called Panorama Mesdag, a 14-meter high and 120-meter long cylindrical painting by artist Hendrik Willem Mesdag (http:// panorama-mesdag.com/home?id=920#). It provides a 3-D illusion of The Hague and Scheveningen as they were in the 19 th century, and it is done much more successfully than any two-dimensional painting could. Finally, there is also the Lucent Theatre ∑ home to the Nederlands Dans Theatre, or NDT, a company of modern dance whose home was designed by the famous Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas in 1988. The Independent has recently voted the newly opened Hotel Hilton in Zeestraat the most exciting place to stay in The Hague. Your plans for a short or long stay will be easy to put together in the truly international atmosphere of the city. There are many websites which can help passers-by or longer staying business guests get their bearings, for example www.thehagueonline.com. For gastronomy treats and dining out opportunities, one would be well advised to consult www.denhaag.nl/en/visitors/restaurantsand-nightlife.htm. The city centre is packed full of restaurants which offer all sorts of cuisines and wine bars for more mature clients, whereas the younger partygoers in pursuit of weekend fun cannot go amiss if they choose one of the night clubs in Scheveningen. If you want to explore the environs, why not take the highway and drive 60 kilometres to the charming village of Marken. It offers numerous and very well preserved examples of wooden buildings dating back to the beginning of the 20 th century coupled with breathtaking vistas of North Holland’s littoral. Last but not least, there is the third reason: The Hague is the centre of Design and Governance, one of the most significant European Union programmes in the sphere of the creative industry. Within the next ten years the programme is expected to create the identity of all the segments of united Europe’s administration and executive power. There is no doubt that the activities currently underway within the framework of this programme will have a significant impact on the perception of this city on the shores of the North Sea. n

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aπka je najpoznatije i najposjeÊenije turistiËko srediπte otoka Krka, poznata po najljepπoj πljunËanoj plaæi Kvarnera i πire, ali i simbolu hrvatske pismenosti − BaπÊanskoj ploËi te bogatoj kulturnoj i glagoljaπkoj ostavπtini Poloæaj Baπke omoguÊio je mjestu kroz stoljetnu turistiËku tradiciju kontinuitet u razvoju, prepoznatljivost u turistiËkom okruæju i prosperitet. Nalazi se u pitomoj dolini, u zaljevu, okruæena vinogradima, maslinicima i brnistrom, sa slikovitom pozadinom otoka PrviÊa, toga najveÊega nenaseljenog otoka na Jadranu, te masiva Velebita. Baπka je poznato ime u turizmu, ima razvijeni i kvalitetni smjeπtaj u hotelima, privatnom smjeπtaju i kampovima, ima razvijenu turistiËku ponudu i sadræaje, prekrasne πetnice po okolnim pastirskim stazama i brdima ukupne duæine 90 km, wellness ponudu u hotelskom smjeπtaju, te prepoznatljivu i bogatu gastronomsku ponudu koju nude baπÊanski ugostitelji. Zbog oËuvanog okoliπa i brige za ekologiju (Hoteli Baπka d.d. ulaæu napore u razvijanju 104

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sunËanih elektrana) Baπka je mamac za dolazak u svim godiπnjim dobima, a sve je viπe gostiju posjeÊuje upravo u proljeÊe kad se priroda budi i Baπka je obavijena mirisom kadulje, brnistre, poljskog cvijeÊa. Tada nema ljetnih guævi i vreve na plaæama, idealno je mjesto za odmor, opuπtanje i razonodu. TuristiËka je ponuda u predsezoni velika, treba se samo odluËiti koji je mjesec najprikladniji za aktivnosti, uæivanje i zabavu. U Baπku je nemoguÊe doÊi, a ne vratiti se ponovno! Dogaanja u Baški TRAVANJ − gourmet program − mjesec πparoga, plodova mora i vrbniËke ælahtine Feπta od πparoga − hiking trip Info; www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr and Baπka is enveloped by fragrant herbs, sage, broom and wild flowers. At that time there is no summer rush or crowds on the beaches, and therefore it is an ideal place for rest, relaxation and recreation. The tourist offer in the preseason is quite expansive; one only needs to decide which month is the most suitable for activities, enjoyment and fun! It is impossible to come to Baπka and not return again! Events in Baška APRIL − gourmet program − month of asparagus, sea food and VrbniËka Ælahtina wine Asparagus Party − hiking trip Info: www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr SVIBANJ − gourmet program − mjesec baπÊanske janjetine i vrbniËke ælahtine Dive in Baπka Info: www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr LIPANJ − gourmet program − mjesec baπÊanskog meda i mednih uæitaka Via Korintija − hiking&aquavision boat trip Info: www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr

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aπka is the most famous and most visited tourist destination on the island Krk. It is known for having the most beautiful pebble beach in the Kvarner region and beyond, but also as a symbol of Croatian writing − the Baπka Tablet, and for its rich cultural and Glagolitic heritage. Throughout the centuries-old tradition in tourism, the location alone of Baπka has enabled the town to continually develop, achieve

recognition in the tourism environment and prosper as a town. It is nestled in a quiet valley, in a bay surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and flowering broom, with a picturesque backdrop of the island PrviÊ, the largest uninhabited island in the Adriatic, as well as the massive Velebit mountain range. Baπka is a known name in the tourism industry. It has developed and quality accommodations in hotels, private houses and camps. It also has a developed tourist offer and contents, ranging from 90 kilometres of beautiful walking trails on the surrounding pastoral paths and hills, wellness offers in hotels, as well as a distinctive and rich cuisine offered by the Baπka catering establishments. Owing to the preserved environment and the concern for ecology (Hoteli Baπka d.d. has been making efforts to develop solar power plants) Baπka is appealing in every season of the year, and more and more guests are visiting in the spring when the nature awakens

MAY − gourmet program − month of lamb from Baπka and VrbniËka Ælahtina wine Dive in Baπka Info: www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr JUNE − gourmet program − month of honey from Baπka and honey delights Via Corinthia − hiking & aquavision boat trip Info: www.tz-baska.hr, www.hotelibaska.hr

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NATURE ADVENTURE GASTRONOMY ISLANDS

www.zadar.hr Zadar County Tourist Board Sv. Leopolda Bogdana Mandića 1 23000 Zadar, Croatia tel. ++385 (0)23 315 316 e-mail: tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ KULTURA CULTURE

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UoËi pristupanja Hrvatske Europskoj uniji izlazi u Nizozemskoj antologija novije hrvatske pripovjedne proze. Knjiga je dio projekta Biblioteka KLIN (nizozemski akronim za Hrvatsku knjiæevnost u Nizozemskoj), koji je pokrenula i vodi dr. Sanja Kregar, Hrvatica viπe od 30 godina nastanjena u Nizozemskoj. Antologija je Ëetvrta knjiga u biblioteci KLIN. As Croatia prepares to join the European Union, an anthology of recent Croatian narrative prose is to be published in the Netherlands. The book is part of the project Biblioteka KLIN − KLIN Book Series (the Dutch acronym for Croatian Literature in the Netherlands), which was initiated and managed by Sanja Kregar, Ph.D., a Croat who has been living in the Netherlands for over 30 years. The anthology is

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the fourth book in the KLIN series.

Julijana MatanoviÊ

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ripovijest o projektu KLIN relativno je kratka i zahuktana. Zamisao o predstavljanju danaπnjih hrvatskih knjiæevnika nizozemskoj ËitalaËkoj publici roena je 2010. godine, a 2011. poËela se ostvarivati. − Tada sam veÊ bila prevela nekoliko Tribusonovih romana, ali joπ nijedan nije bilo izdan. Upravo je nekako u to vrijeme moje Ëuenje o odsutnosti novije hrvatske knjiæevnosti, koja ni po Ëemu ne zaostaje za ponudom po nizozemskim knjiæarama, ustupilo mjesto Ëuenju πto veÊina izdavaËkih kuÊa nije zainteresirana za ostvarenja naπe literarne scene. Postavilo se otprije poznato pitanje: kako zbliæiti dvije, meni drage zemlje s njihovim tzv. malim jezicima i knjiæevnostima. Tako je, iz odreenog revolta prema ustaljenoj situaciji, nastao projekt KLIN. Bilo mi je jasno da Êe za prodor u nizozemske knjiæevne prostore trebati mnogo strpljenja, vremena, sredstava, kreativnosti i truda, te da je krajnji ishod sasvim neizvjestan. Ali, najavljeno pristupanje Hrvatske Europskoj uniji u 2013. otvorilo je nove perspektive, upozorilo na to da ih treba iskoristiti i nametnulo neumoljivi tempo ubrzanog izdavanja knjiga − objaπnjava Sanja Kregar. − Projekt KLIN ima strukturu male profesionalne organizacije koja fl eksibilno radi uz minimalne troπkove. Glavni je investitor pokretaËica i njezin suprug prof. dr. Wim Boonstra. Ulaganjem zajedniËkih privatnih sredstava i vlastita vremena, izvodi se planirani program prevoenja i izdavanja djela iz hr vatske pripovjedne proze na nizozemski. Prema potrebi u posao se ukljuËuju urednici, ilustratori, savjetnici i pomoÊnici, a ostvarena je plodna suradnja s izdavaËkom kuÊom PAMAC, Odjelom za slavistiku na Amsterdamskom sveuËiliπtu, s nekoliko strukovnih udruæenja prevoditelja, te s Hrvatskom turistiËkom zajednicom u Nizozemskoj. Projekt prevoenja hrvatskih knjiæevnih djela na nizozemski jezik vaæan je naËin pribliæavanja dvije zemlje, koji podræavamo i u kojemu sudjelujemo koliko je moguÊe. Na primjer, objavljivanjem vijesti o novim knjigama na naπim web-stranicama i organiziranjem domjenka prilikom izlaska antologije − izjavio je direktor TuristiËke zajednice Igor Cupahin. Glavni je institucionalni pomagatelj projekta KLIN Ministarstvo kulture Republike Hrvatske. − Sve dosad tiskane knjige u sklopu biblioteke KLIN dobile su potporu ministarstva, na Ëemu smo duboko zahvalni. Financijska je pomoÊ bez daljnjega nuæna, a mnogo

Marinko KoπËec

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M. Kenji

Ratko CvetniÊ

N. Reberšak

znaËi i priznavanje znaËenja projekta KLIN u kulturnim strujanjima izmeu dviju zemalja. To je veoma vaæan poticaj naπemu daljnjem radu − dodala je Sanja Kregar. − Kulturna suradnja Hrvatske i Nizozemske ima vaænu ulogu u ukupnim odnosima dviju zemalja zato πto pridonosi prepoznatljivosti hrvatske baπtine i promidžbi hrvatskih interesa u Nizozemskoj, stoga pozdravljamo svaki projekt koji tome pridonosi. Raduje nas πto je hrvatsko Ministarstvo kulture spoznalo znaËenje predstavljanja hrvatske knjiæevnosti nizozemskoj publici financijskom podrπkom izdanjima biblioteke KLIN − rekla je hrvatska veleposlanica u Nizozemskoj gospoa Vesela Mren KoraÊ. Antologija Nogomet, aneli, rat obuhvaÊa kratke pripovijetke i fragmente romana deset hrvatskih knjiæevnika koji uglavnom nisu poznati u Nizozemskoj. Tekstovi oslikavaju zajedniËke teme i motive, πto se vidi iz naslova, ali i raznolikost hrvatske pripovjedne proze u posljednjih dvadesetak godina.

Miro Gavran

Angel Toth, nogometni prorok fantastiËna je pripovijest mnogostranog knjiæevnika Gorana Tribusona, koji ovdje srednjoeuropske utjecaje u hrvatskoj povijesti majstorski isprepleÊe s univerzalnom zabavom πirih slojeva, nogometom, te ga dalje preobraæava u sveobuhvatnu igru bez granica. U kratkim pripovijetkama zbirke Nebeska koπarka prerano preminule spisateljice Martine AniËiÊ, koje su duhovite i britke, napisane uæurbanim, urbanim stilom, negdje na granici zbilje i fikcije, nailazimo na anela Ëuvara i kuÊnog prijatelja glavne junakinje, koji se ponaπa neoËekivano sportski i svjetovno. Pripovijetka Aneo u ofsajdu Zorana FeriÊa, jednoga od najËitanijih hrvatskih pisaca mlae generacije, vrvi od elemenata fantastike i apsurdnoga, iznenaujuÊega, ismijavajuÊega i katkad gruboga. U opisu pogreba na otoku Rabu, FeriÊ oslikava osobitosti tamoπnjeg æivota nekad i danas na njemu svojstven, zapanjujuÊi naËin. Omiljena kod hrvatske ËitalaËke publike, knjiæevnica Julijana MatanoviÊ doËarava u autobiografskom romanu Zaπto sam vam lagala atmosferu vlastitog odrastanja u Slavoniji. Njezini tekstovi bogato su razgranati i mnogostruko meusobno isprepleteni, kao granje drveÊa po kojemu se penjala, zbunjujuÊi poput gostionice u koju bi sluËajno zaπla − ili je to ipak bila Ëitaonica? − te raskoπno ureπeni, ali i vrlo zahtjevni u prenoπenju u druge kulturne kontekste. Tematski univerzalan, Matka MaruπiÊa autobiografski roman Medicina iznutra duhovito prikazuje stanje u znanstveno-medicinskim krugovima u Hrvatskoj tijekom viπe desetljeÊa. Ratko CvetniÊ predstavljen je fragmentima iz oba objavljena djela: naturalistiËkim opisom dogaaja na fronti za rata u Kratkom izletu, te slikom æivotarenja glavnoga muπkog lika pred nevoljko stupanje u zreli æivot osamdesetih godina u Zagrebu, u romanu Polusan. Ne moæe se govoriti o novijoj hrvatskoj knjiæevnosti a da se ne spomene Domovinski rat, koliko god ta tema bila daleka veÊini stranih Ëitatelja. Iz hrvatskoga literarnog opusa odabrani su dojmljivi ulomci Miljenka JergoviÊa (iz Sarajevskog Marlbora), Matka MaruπiÊa (iz zbirke PlaËu li aneli?), Ludwiga Bauera (iz romana Don Juanova velika ljubav i mali balkanski rat), te kratka pripovijetka Spaπavanje medvjeda Mire Gavrana. U svakome od tih priloga razliËitim se izrazom i subjektivnim pristupom oslikavaju strahote i apsurdnost rata te æivot i snalaæenje u ratnim prilikama. Zbirka bi bila nepotpuna bez djela u kojima se eksperimentira jezikom i knjiæevnim æanrom. U suiti za πest pripovjedaËa, πto je

podnaslov originalno sastavljenog romana Netko drugi Marinka KoπËeca, u prevedenom poglavlju glavni lik putuje vlakom iz Amsterdama u Bruxelles i promatra nizozemsku svakodnevicu oËima stranca. I, ne zaboravimo Zaboravljenog sina Mire Gavrana, roman napisan reËenicama koje se slijevaju poput slapa i jednostavno ne prestaju, upravo onako kako govore mala djeca, bez toËke i zareza. Izraz zavarava jer nije posrijedi djeËja knjiga, iako je Gavran i njih pisao. n he story of the KLIN Project is relatively short and fast-developing. The idea of presenting modern Croatian authors to the Dutch reading audience was born in 2010, and its realization started in 2011. − I have already translated several of Tribuson’s novels, but none have been published yet. It was around that time that I was astonished that Croatian literature was not present in Dutch bookshops, even though it was in no way inferior to the books they offered, and this gave way to the surprise that most publishers were not interested in the books produced on our literary scene. This posed the already familiar question: How can these two countries that I love, with their so-called small languages and literatures, be brought closer together? Thus, the KLIN Project resulted from a sort of revolt over the situation at hand. I knew that reaching Dutch literary space would require a lot of patience, creativity and effort, and that the final outcome was uncertain. However, the announced accession of Croatia to the European Union in 2013 opened up new perspectives, pointed out that the moment should be exploited, and imposed a demanding and fast pace at which books were to be published, Sanja Kregar explains. The KLIN Project has the structure of a small professional organization, working fl exibly, and at minimum cost. The main investors are the initiator and her husband, Professor Wim Boonstra, Ph.D. By investing their joint private funds and their own time, the projected program of translating and publishing Croatian narrative prose pieces into Dutch has been implemented. Editors, illustrators, consultants and assistants are involved in the operations as needed, and a fruitful cooperation has been realized with the publishing company PAMAC, the Department of Slavic Studies at the University of Amsterdam, with several professional translators’ associations, and with the Croatian Tourist Board in the Netherlands.

T

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N. Reberšak

Goran Tribuson

− The project of translating Croatian literary works into Dutch is an important way of bringing the two countries closer together, which we support and in which we participate as much as possible. For example, we do this by publishing information on new books on our web page and by organizing an event celebrating the publishing of the anthology, said the director of the Tourist Board, Mr. Cupahin. The principal institutional supporter of the KLIN Project is the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia. − All books published so far within the KLIN series received the Ministry’s support, for which I am deeply thankful. Financial assistance is certainly necessary, and the recognition of the importance of the KLIN Project in the cultural contact between the two countries means a lot to us. This is an extremely important incentive for our further work, Sanja Kregar adds. − Cultural cooperation between Croatia and the Netherlands has an important role in the overall relations between the two countries because it contributes to the recognition of Croatian heritage and the promotion of Croatian interests in the Netherlands and we welcome every project which contributes to that. We are glad that the Croatian Ministry of Culture has recognised the importance of presenting Croatian literature to the Dutch public and that it has provided financial support to KLIN’s publications, said the Croatian ambassador to the Netherlands, Ms Vesela Mren KoraÊ. Anthology Soccer, Angels, War includes short stories and fragments of novels by a dozen Croatian authors who are mostly unknown in the Netherlands. The texts illustrate common themes and motifs, as can be seen by the title, but also the diversity of the Croatian narrative prose in the last two decades: Angel Toth, The Soccer Prophet is a fantasy story by the versatile author Goran 110

Tribuson, who skillfully interweaves Central European influences on Croatian history with the universal entertainment for the masses - soccer, further transforming it into an allencompassing game without borders. The short stories from the collection Heavenly Basketball by the prematurely deceased author Martina AniËiÊ are funny and sharp, written in a fast-paced, urban style. In these stories, somewhere between reality and fiction, we meet the main character’s guardian angel and close friend, a surprisingly sporty and down to earth character. The story An Angel in Offside by Zoran FeriÊ, one of the most popular Croatian writers of the younger generation, is full of elements of fantasy and absurdity, and is surprising, mocking and occasionally rude. In his description of a funeral on the island of Rab, FeriÊ depicts the specific local way of life in the present period and in the past in his distinctive, astonishing way. One of the Croatian audience’s favorites, the author Julijana MatanoviÊ, depicts the atmosphere of growing up in her native Slavonia in her autobiographical novel Why I Lied to You. The narration in her texts takes many different directions and intermingles, just like the trees she used to climb as a child; and they are confusing like the inn she would enter by coincidence (or… was it a reading room?); they are lavishly decorated yet highly demanding when transferred to other cultural contexts. With its universal subject, Matko MaruπiÊ’s autobiographical novel Medicine from Inside depicts, in a humorous way, the situation in scientific and medical circles in Croatia throughout several decades. Ratko CvetniÊ is presented through fragments from both of his published works: the naturalist description of events on the front line during war in Short Trip, and the description of the hero’s meaningless existence in Zagreb during the 80s before unwillingly entering his mature years in the novel Half-Sleep. We cannot talk about recent Croatian literature without mentioning the Homeland War, even though this subject is distant to a majority of foreign readers. From the Croatian literary opus, fascinating texts have been selected by authors such as Miljenko JergoviÊ (from Sarajevo Marlboro), Matko MaruπiÊ (from the collection Do Angels Cry?), Ludwig Bauer (from the novel Don Juan’s Great Love and A Small Balkan War), and the short story Saving the Bear by Miro Gavran. In each of these contributions, the horrors and absurdity of war, as well as liv-

ing and coping during wartime are depicted through different modes of expression and subjective approaches. The collection would be incomplete without works which experiment with language and literary genre. In the Suite for Six Story Tellers, which is the subtitle of the original novel Someone Else by Marinko KoπËec, the translated chapter shows the main character travelling by train from Amsterdam to Brussels, observing the everyday life in the Netherlands through the eyes of a foreigner. And we must not forget The Forgotten Son by Miro Gavran, a novel written with sentences that flow like a waterfall and simply do not stop, the way small children talk, without commas or periods. This style is deceptive because it is not a children’s book, although Gavran has written such books as well. n StruËni savjetnik: Dr. Tomislav Brlek, Odsjek z a komparativnu knjiæevnost, SveuËiliπte u Zagrebu: Antologija Voetbal, engelen, oorlog izlazi u svibnju ove godine u suradnji s izdavaËkom kuÊom PAMAC, www.pamac.nl/intekenen/ The anthology Voetbal, engelen, oorlog will be published in May 2013, in cooperation with the publishing company PAMAC, www. pamac.nl/intekenen Program biblioteke KLIN/The KLIN Book Series Program: 1. Goran Tribuson: De fanclub (2011.) 2. Goran Tribuson: Het grijze gebied (2012.) 3. Goran Tribuson: Andermans zaken (2013.) 4. Voetbal, engelen, oorlog (2013.), ISBN 5. Miro Gavran: Kafka’s vriend (2014.) 6. Goran Tribuson: Het huis van de Satan (2014.) 7. Marinko KoπËec: Een centimeter vanaf het geluk (2014.) 8. Ludwig Bauer: Het vertalen van de lyrische poëzie (2015.) 9. Miro Gavran: De enige getuige van de schoonheid (2015.) Linkovi/Links kl-in.eu sanja-kregar.nl rabobank.com/en/research/Economic_ Research/our_economists/chief_economist/ wimboonstra.html pamac.nl uva.nl/over-de-uva/organisatie/medewerkers/content/l/u/r.lucic/r.lucic.html vzv.info/index.php?section=2&page=132 croatia.hr/nl-NL/Homepage?gclid=CLbVmd 6dubACFU4lfAod1iVl7g min-kulture.hr pamac.nl/intekenen/

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■ FENOMENI PHENOMENA

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Fotografije/Photos Brian RaπiÊ

50 GODINA KOTRLJANJA I JOŠ DALJE… 50 YEARS AND THEY KEEP ON ROLLIN’

jerojatno svi znaju - rock-glazba veÊ odavno nije mlada. No, neki od prvih protagonista rock-ere ostali su, gotovo protuprirodnim procesom, aktivni i danas. I tako smo stigli do slavlja 50 godina postojanja Rolling Stonesa, najdugotrajnijega æivuÊeg organizma rock-scene. Dakako, mnogo se stvari promijenilo i nisu ni izbliza jednake, Ëak ni sliËne. Karijera Rolling Stonesa od sredine osamdesetih godina do danas raspolovila se na dva dijela, koncertni i albumski, koji viπe nisu bili povezani kao prije. Jagger, Richards i druπtvo na nastupima u æivo uspijevali su zadræati privlaËnost, Ëak i u uvjetima ponavljanja repertoara na velikim stadionima. Upravo su oni od toga napravili model kojim su se poslije koristili svi. Ako si pak daju oduπka pa imjaju manje klupske nastupe, i te kako su uvjerljivi u raritetnijim pjesmama koje u æivo nisu svirali godinama. S albumima je stanje drugaËije, loπije. Bilo je tu svega, Ëesto i niËega. Osam godina nakon studijskog albuma Bridges To Babylon, 2005., objavljen je A Bigger Bang, uvod u joπ jednu svjetsku turneju, zavrπenu 2007. godine. I to je donedavno bilo sve od zajedniËkog angaæmana Micka Jaggera, Keitha Richardsa i ostalih, zbog Ëega nije bilo nelogiËno pretpostaviti da je priËi moæda ipak doπao kraj. Potkraj 2010. godine najviπe se Ëekala autobiografija Æivot Keitha Richardsa. Da je gitarist Rolling Stonesa æivuÊa legenda, znalo se odavno, jedino nismo bili sigurni koliko Êe ta æivahnost potrajati s obzirom na, eufemizam je reÊi, ekscesni Richardsov æivotni put. Glavni koautor pjesama Rolling Stonesa uz Jaggera, Richards je bio svuda i vidio svaπta, doslovno i u prenesenom znaËenju. Podatak da je u 67. godini objavio memoare jednostavnog naziva Life, kao da je govorio kako je upravo taj, jedan Richardsov æivot kroza se prelomio

mnoge kljuËne dogaaje i osobe 20. stoljeÊa. Doduπe, sam Richards u knjizi je, izmeu ostaloga, napisao kako je u sedamdesetim i osamdesetim godinama spavao moæda dvaput na tjedan, zakljuËujuÊi da je u usporedbi s drugim ljudima bio budan barem nekoliko æivota. Koliko je bio i svjestan, drugo je pitanje, no, na poleini knjige Life bila je istaknuta zabiljeπka: Ovo je æivot. Vjerovali ili ne, nisam zaboravio niπta od svega toga. I bome nije; briljantna knjiga pokazala je da je sedam milijuna dolara avansa izdavaË ispravno potroπio. Life je bio punokrvna storija i podsjetnik iz prve ruke o odiseji koju je Richards proπao sa Stonesima. Dokaz kako je to kroz jedan æivot Richards proæivio barem tri i unatoË tomu πto je bio prvi na listi osumnjiËenih da neÊe dugo izdræati, napisao priËu koja je uπla meu kljuËne novije autobiografske iskaze. Rolling Stonesi su skupa s Keithom odavno odrasli i postali ne samo institucija nego i visokodohodovna maπina koja je samo na zadnjoj dvogodiπnjoj svjetskoj turneji ubiljeæila zaradu od viπe nego petsto milijuna dolara. Dok se Richards bavio knjiæevnim trijumfima, ni Mick Jagger nije htio odustati od samostalne karijere, najËeπÊe diskutabilne. Pogotovo ne u vrijeme najduljeg mirovanja matiËne grupe, pa je sa starim suradnikom Daveom Stewartom iz nekadaπnjih Eurythmics osnovao postavu SuperHeavy i snimio jedan poloviËan album plesne glazbe. I dok je Richards ubirao lovorike autobiografijom Æivot, osvajao nagrade i prodao viπe od milijun primjeraka knjige, 2012. pribliæavala se obljetnica 50 godina osnutka grupe. Za razliku od turneje i kompilacije najveÊih hitova 40 Licks prije deset godina, ovaj put planovi nisu bili sasvim jasni. I Richardsove napomene iznesene u knjizi na raËun Jaggera i kasnije svae i izjave u britanskom Observeru govo-

Piše/By Hrvoje Horvat

V

rile su da su The Glimmer Twins − πto im je zajedniËki pseudonim − moæda opet otkopali ratne sjekire. No, barem su otvorene arhive iz kojih se na træiπtu pojavilo nekoliko podsjetnika na bolju proπlost grupe. Potkraj 2011. reizdan je jedan od najvitalnijih albuma Stonesa, Some Girls iz 1978., kao luksuzno reizdanje u nekoliko verzija i s prije neobjavljenim pjesmama. SliËno kao i godinu prije kad je svjetlo dana ugledala proπirena verzija kljuËnog albuma Exile On Main St. iz 1972. godine. Ako ne u æivo, Stonese ste mogli gledati u kinima i na DVD-u na napokon objavljenim koncertnim filmovima Ladies And Gentleman, The Rolling Stones i Some Girls Live In Texas, s turneja 1972. i 1978. godine. U studenom 2011. iznenada je predstavljena nova web stranica StonesArchive.com, na kojoj su joπ praktiËnije otvorili povijesne arhive i publici ponudili to na kupnju, dakako, audio i videosnimke, memorabiliju, fotografije i ostalo πto su skupili u ormaru pedesetogodiπnje karijere. Prvi potez nove internetske prodavaonice nije mogao biti bolji; na Stones Archive.com mogao se downloadati neobjavljeni, doista izvrsni koncertni album The Brussels Affair iz 1973. godine. Nije trebalo dugo Ëekati da se uskoro pojavi i audioverzija koncerta iz ameriËkog Hamptona 1981., a zatim i snimke nastupa u Los Angelesu 1975. i iz Tokyja 1990. godine. Govorkanja da Êe se Stonesi okupiti u tonskom studiju potkraj 2011. pokrenuo je sam Richards, pozvavπi u studio i nekadaπnjeg Ëlana Billa Wymana, o Ëijem se povratku u grupu sve viπe govorilo, ali od toga na kraju nije bilo niπta. »ekala se iduÊa godina. Za razliku od mnogih glazbenika koji su periodiËno posustajali i vraÊali se temeljito promijenjene fizionomije, Rolling Stonesi su

Da je netko 1963. godine pomislio da Êe tadaπnji protagonisti aktivno raditi i danas, vjerojatno bi ga proglasili ludim. Uostalom, poznat je televizijski intervju iz 1964., u kojemu Mick Jagger prognozira da Êe Rolling Stonesi svirati joπ barem dvije godine... A za njima je 50 godina kotrljanja… Had someone thought in 1963 that the main rock’n’roll protagonists of the time would be active to this day, they would have surely been labelled insane. After all, in a famous TV interview in 1964, Mick Jagger predicted that the band would perform together for at least another two years… And yet, 50 years later they keep on rollin’… CROATIA AIRLINES

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priliËno stalno i aktivno projurili kroz svijet rock-scene, sve do 2007. g. Bez nostalgiËnih priËa o posljednjoj turneji na koje su ih stalno navodili mediji, jednostavno su radili. I neπto manje jednostavno, neizmjerno zaraivali, ostajuÊi meu najdohodovnijim imenima danaπnjice. Veliki prasak od prije pedeset godina trajao je i dalje, ali drugaËijeg intenziteta. Stara Richardsova izjava da mnogi ne pamte kako se Zemlja okretala bez Rolling Stonesa, dobar je opis situacije u kojoj su Mick i druπtvo, bez obzira na osobne preferencije, postali opÊe mjesto i konstanta ne samo rock-svijeta i showbusinessa najteæe kategorije, nego omiljeni privjesak koji mnogi, namjerno ili nenamjerno, nose sa sobom. 114

Neπto poput omiljenoga kuÊnog pokuÊstva, koje katkad i ne zapaæate, ali kad se zamislite o zajedniËkoj povijesti, u vama budi konotacije πto ih nema juËer kupljeni komad novog namjeπtaja. Upravo s tim zbrojem nagomilanoga povijesnog znaËenja, emocionalnih trenutaka i danaπnjih aktivnosti, Stonesi su prkosili prirodnim zakonima. UnatoË dubokim borama na licima, ali bez trbuha, s tankim linijama i antigerijatrijskim koncertima. Ukratko, Stonesi su postali posljednji zajedniËki na zivnik mnogim naraπtajima, publici i kritiËarima, neπto poput Elvisa Presleya, koji je preæivio, i tako u povijest rocka dodali element trajnosti koji se joπ donedavno Ëinio kao science fiction priËa. PriËa o slavlju u povodu pedesetogodiπnjice osnutka ipak se ubrzala najavom sluæbene fotomonografije 50 objavljene u srpnju 2012. i snimanjem opseænog dokumentarca Crossfire Hurricane, Ëija je premijera bila u listopadu na londonskome filmskom festivalu. Datuma za obiljeæavanje big banga i poËetka rada bilo je nekoliko: od travnja 1962., kad se navrπila okrugla obljetnica poËetka zajedniËkog rada Jaggera, Richardsa, Briana Jonesa i Billy Wymana, do 12. srpnja, kad su 1962. prvi put nastupili u londonskom klubu pod danaπnjim imenom. Richards je u poznatoj maniri ovako definirao slavljeniËku situaciju i zaπto je sve moguÊe obaviti i u 2013.: Niπta nelogiËno, jer Charlie Watts doπao je u postavu u poËetku 1963., 1962. moæemo promatrati kao zaËeÊe, a 1963. godinu kao roenje. Na kraju su se svjetlucavi blizanci ipak uspjeli dogovoriti hoÊe li 2012. aktivno slaviti 50 godina postojanja ili samo uæivati na lovorikama minula rada. Iako se mirovina u sluËaju Rolling Stonesa nikad nije Ëinila kao izgledna

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opcija, Ëinilo se da je moæda i za to doπlo vrijeme. No, ako se veÊ ide u mirovinu, bolje da je πto veÊa. I kad je slavlje poËelo, bilo je vrlo skupo. Za Ëetiri koncerta u studenome i prosincu pod imenom 50 & Counting… − dva u londonskoj O2 Areni i dva u New Jerseyu − Stonesi su od promotora Richarda Bransona (vlasnika Virgin Airlinesa) ubrali astronomski honorar od 25,000.000 dolara. LogiËno, ulaznice su morale biti skupe, pa su se i one najloπije prodavale po cijeni od nekoliko stotina britanskih funti. Dodajmo tomu i standardni medijski manevar grupe u ovakvim situacijama; kompilacija Grrr sa samo dvije nove pjesme i dokumentarni film Crossfire Hurricane, koji je pratio povijest grupe samo do 1981. godine, pokazali su da Stonesi na lageru nisu imali osobitih novosti. DapaËe, bila je posrijedi vrlo oskudna kreativna ponuda. No, nema businessa do show-businessa i prodavanja nostalgije. Parafraziramo li naziv pjesme It’s Only Rock’n’Roll (But I Like It), veÊini je jasno da to viπe odavno nije samo rock’n’roll. NajËeπÊe je daleko od njega, ali mnogi ga, Ëini se, joπ i danas vole... n

live performances on the one hand, and studio recording on the other, which are not quite as connected as they used to be. Jagger, Richards and the rest of the band managed to retain appeal onstage, even in repetitive gigs at large stadiums; they practically conceived this model, later copied by everyone. If they let loose, however, and put on a smaller club show, they can also be very convincing whilst performing older songs, which they have not played live for many years. The situation with albums is different − worse. In that domain, they have come up with various things, but often not much. Eight

years after the Bridges to Babylon studio album, in 2005, they released A Bigger Bang, an introduction to yet another world tour which they completed in 2007. And, until recently, that was all that Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and the rest of the band managed to scrape together, which led to a logical assumption that the story might have, after all, come to an end. In late 2010, the most anticipated work by any of the band members was Keith Richards’ autobiography − Life. The Rolling Stones guitarist had had a longstanding status of a living legend, but nobody could be sure how long it would last, considering his

veryone is probably aware that rock music is long past the stage of its youth, but some of the first stars of the rock era stayed young to this day, almost defying nature. And, thus, we came to the 50 th anniversary of the existence of the Rolling Stones; the longest lasting living organism on the rock music scene. Of course, much has changed and many things are not the same, not even similar. From the mid 1980s until today, the Rolling Stones’ career has split into two aspects,

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excess-ridden lifestyle, to put it mildly. As the main co-author of most Rolling Stones songs, along with Mick Jagger, Keith Richards has been everywhere and has seen it all − literally and figuratively speaking. The fact that he published his memoirs, simply titled Life, at the age of 67 practically suggested that Richards’ life was marked by many key events and people of the 20 th century. Among other things, Richards personally wrote in the book that he slept maybe twice a week during the 1970s and the 1980s, concluding that he had lived at least several more lives than the average person. How much of it he was actually aware of is another story, but the back cover of his autobiography features a note: This is the life. Believe it or not, I haven’t forgotten any of it. And he sure didn’t: the brilliant book proved that a down-payment of seven million dollars was a good investment on behalf of the publisher. Life is a full-blooded story and a fi rst-hand reminder of the odyssey that Keith Richards went through with the Rolling Stones; proof that he has lived at least three lives in a lifetime, despite being on the top of the list of the next to go for many years. Despite all of that, he wrote a story that is now one of the key contemporary autobiographies out there. The Rolling Stones, along with Keith Richards, grew up a long time ago, becoming not only a global institution, but a high-revenue machine that cashed in more than 500 million dollars during their last world tour alone. Whilst Richards was involved with his literary triumphs, Mick Jagger refused to give up on his often questionable solo career, especially during the time of the band’s longest hiatus. Therefore, with help from his old associate, Dave Stewart of Eurythmics, he formed the band SuperHeavy and recorded an album of sorts, featuring dance music. And, whilst Richards was amassing accolades for his autobiography Life, winning awards and selling in excess of one million copies of the book, in 2012, the 50 th anniversary of the formation of the Rolling Stones was creeping up. Unlike with the tour and the greatest hits compilation, 40 Licks, released ten years ago, that time around the plans were not entirely clear. Richards’ negative remarks on Jagger’s account, expressed in his autobiography, as well as consequent arguments between the two and statements given to the British newspaper The Observer, indicated that The Glimmer Twins − their joint pseudonym − might have fallen apart for good. At least the archives were opened, ejecting

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several reminders of the band’s famous past onto the market. One of the most important Rolling Stones albums, Some Girls from 1987, was re-released in late 2011 as a luxury edition album in several versions, including previously unreleased songs, much like the year before, when an expanded version of the key 1972 album Exile on Main St. was re-released. If not live, the Stones could be viewed in cinemas and on DVD in their concert-films Ladies and Gentlemen; The Rolling Stones and Some Girls Live In Texas, recorded during the 1972 and 1978 tours. Suddenly, in November 2011, they presented a new web-page, StonesArchive. com, in which they have made their archives even more accessible to customers, selling audio and video recordings, memorabilia, photographs and everything else they had gathered throughout their 50 year career. The first move of the new online shop could not have been better: it offered a download of the unreleased, truly excellent concert album, The Brussels Affair, from 1973. It did not take long before the audio version of the 1981 concert in the American Hamptons, and a recording of the 1975 performance in Los Angeles, as well as the 1990 concert in Tokyo were made available for purchase on-

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line. Rumours that the Rolling Stones would gather in a recording studio in late 2011 were started by Richards himself, inviting along former member Bill Wyman, whose return to the band had been frequently discussed only to fall through in the end. Everyone waited until the next year. Unlike many musicians who have taken periodical breaks only to return fundamentally changed, the Rolling Stones stomped across the global rock music scene quite persistently and actively until 2007. Without nostalgic stories about the last tour, constantly provoked by the media, they simply worked; and, less simply so, earned immensely, having remained among the best paid musicians of all time. The big bang from fifty years ago echoes on to this day, but with a different intensity. Richards’ old statement how many can’t remember the Earth spinning without the Rolling Stones, is a good way to describe the situation in which Mick and the guys, regardless of their personal preferences, became permanent heavyweight icons in the world of rock music and show-business, as well as a favourite keychain that many, deliberately or not, carry with them everywhere. Something like favourite furniture that often goes unnoticed, but once one ponders on their mutual past it evokes connotations which furniture, bought only yesterday, simply does not have. Thanks to such accumulated historic significance, numerous emotional moments and the band’s current activities, the Rolling Stones have defied the laws of nature. Despite deep wrinkles on their faces, leanbellied band members are still as fit as any other performer out there, and they often put on quite anti-geriatric shows. In short, the

Stones have, much like Elvis Presley, become an epitome of a band for many generations of audiences and critics, having survived and introduced an element of longevity that has until recently seemed like a science fiction tale in the world of rock music. The story of the 50th anniversary celebrations had gained momentum with the announcement of the official photographic monograph − 50, published in July 2012, and filming of an in-depth documentary, Crossfire Hurricane, which premiered at the London Film Festival in October. Several dates qualified to be marked by the big bang: they ranged from April as the 50 th anniversary of the beginning of cooperation by Jagger, Richards, Brian Jones and Bill Wyman in 1962, to July 12th which was the 50 th anniversary of their first performance as the Rolling Stones in a London club. In a typical manner, Richards defined the celebration and why it might as well take place in 2013: Perfectly logical, because Charlie Watts became a band member in early 1963, so 1962 can be viewed as the conception, while 1963 was the birth. In the end, the Glimmer Twins managed to agree whether to celebrate 50 years of the band’s existence in 2012 or just sit back and reap the fruit of past successes. Although retirement never seemed like a feasible option to the Rolling Stones, it did seem like the time might have come after all. But if one is about to apply for a pension, why not make sure it is as big as it gets. Once it began, the celebration proved expensive: the four concerts, titled 50 and Counting, two at London’s O2 Arena and two in New Jersey, held in November and December, cost promoter Richard Branson (owner of Virgin Airlines) an astronomic 25 million dollars, which he deposited onto the band’s bank account. Logically, tickets had to be expensive, so even the cheapest ones cost several hundred pounds sterling. Keeping in mind the band’s standard media manoeuvre in such situations; release of the compilation Grrr, featuring only two new songs, and a documentary film Crosswind Hurricane, which covers the band’s history up until 1981, it is clear that the Stones did not have much new material for quite a while. In fact, the creative offer was very sparse. But, there is no business like show-business and selling nostalgia. If we paraphrase the title of the song It’s Only Rock’n’Roll (But I Like It), most will realize that it has not been only rock’n’roll for quite some time now. More often than not, it is far from it, but many still seem to like it today… n

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■ INOVACIJE INNOVATIONS

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ poslovnom svijetu teπko je zamisliti tvrtku, veliku i malu, bez svoje stranice na World Wide Webu. Otvorite je na raËunalu desktop i dobivate potrebne informacije, sve ostalo znate. A i elektroniËka je trgovina sve raπirenija. Tako je danas, a tako neÊe biti sutra, jer 2013. godinu najavili su kao prekretnicu u kojoj Êe viπe korisnika pristupati digitalnom sadræaju preko mobilnog ureaja, nego preko svojih raËunala. U tom smislu malim i velikim tvrtkama postaje sve vaænije prezentirati sadræaj u obliku prilagoenome formatu ekrana mobilnog telefona. Tvrtke, a osobito ecommerce sajtovi ili stranice e-trgovine, koje neÊe moÊi dobro komunicirati mobilnim ureajima, gubit Êe korisnike. − VeÊ se sada popriliËno tvrtki koristi samo mobilnom aplikacijom, shvaÊajuÊi da im je komunikacija s korisnicima preko mobilnih ureaja bræa i uËinkovitija od dosadaπnje preko desk top raËunala. Tako je to u SAD-u, a brzo postaje globalni trend, pa

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u novom poretku vidimo golemu πansu − kaæe Saπa ©aruniÊ, s kolegom Viktorom MarohniÊem suosnivaË i direktor tvrtke Pet minuta i ShoutEm. Prva se bavi izradom softwarea po narudæbi, a ShoutEm prva u Hrvatskoj izrauje platformu za brzu, jeftinu i jednostavnu izradu mobilnih aplikacija za sve platforme, od Androida do Appleova iPhonea i iPada, bez potrebe da korisnici znaju programirati. ShoutEm meu prvima u svijetu nudi takvu vrstu proizvoda, a kako se raËuna s globalnim træiπtem, otvorila je ured u New Yorku s Ëetvero zaposlenih na Ëelu s Viktorom MarohniÊem. Meu korisnicima proizvoda ShoutEma veÊ su ugledni dnevnik US Today, AmeriËki muzej nacionalne povijesti, IBM, raper 50 Cent, te domaÊi poput Ëasopisa Cosmopolitan, Story i Motovunskog filmskog festivala, a otvara im se potencijalno træiπte vrijedno milijarde. »ak 98 posto prihoda ostvaruju izvozom, pa je rijeË o uspjeπnoj priËi koja se zakotrljala 2008. godine, kad su dvojica programera,

zaposlenih u austrijskoj tvrtki, dali otkaz, pokrenuli vlastitu tvrtku Pet minuta i krenuli u avanturu u sada najkonkurentnijoj branπi u svijetu. Hrvatski su momci iz garaæe, kako ih nazivaju, iza sebe imali kreiranu druπtvenu mreæu Trosjed i nagradu za PtiËicu, najbolju web stranicu na Microsoftovoj tehnologiji, koju je 2007. g. dodijelio sam Microsoft kad su pokrenuli Pet minuta kao tvrtku za izradu softwarea po narudæbi. Ali osim vrlo brzo uhodanoga konzultantskog posla, razvoja i testiranja softvera za tvrtke poput ameriËke RealNetworks, æeljeli su razviti proizvod zanimljiv globalnom træiπtu, web stranicu na kojoj bi svatko mogao pokrenuti vlastitu druπtvenu mreæu po uzoru na Twitter i Facebook. Dok je Pet minuta radila aplikacije po narudæbi, ShoutEm je trebao biti proizvod za koriπtenje kojega bi se plaÊala mjeseËna ili godiπnja pretplata i koji bi mogao znaËajno rasti. Jedna od ideja bila je omoguÊiti pojedincima, malim i srednjim tvrtkama da preko

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mobilnih ureaja pokrenu online trgovinu. Ili da portalima lokalnih zajednica uz malu mjeseËnu naknadu pruæe platformu za dolazak na mobilne ureaje. Dakako, nedostajalo je novca, ali investitorima ni traga, unatoË zvuËnim nagradama i priznanjima, poput onoga na konferenciji Mobile 2.0 u Barceloni 2008., gdje je ShoutEm izabran za jednu od tri najbolje mobilne druπtvene mreæe, na konferenciji Le Web u Parizu iste godine odabran meu 30 najboljih svjetskih startupa (tvrtki dizajniranih za brzi rast, nap.p.), dobio BronËano Teslino jaje za inovativnost u odabiru Ëasopisa VIDI itd. Nakon uzaludnih lutanja od jednoga do drugog investitora i obilazaka konferencija, htjeli su veÊ odustati, sjeÊa se Saπa ©aruniÊ, a onda su Ëuli za BICRO (Business-Inovation Center Croatia), prijavili se, i veÊ sutradan javio im se netko iz toga poslovno-inovacijskog centra Hrvatske. Ukratko, nudeÊi pomoÊ malim i srednjim tvrtkama, BICRO je u sklopu svog programa Razum, sa 70 posto sredstava, podupro projekt vrijedan 350.000 eura, πto im je omoguÊilo da zaposle pet ljudi i poËnu se razvijati. − Da nije bilo BICRO-a, ne bismo uspjeli mnogo napraviti, jer u tako ranoj fazi s neizvjesnim ishodom nitko nije zainteresiran za ulaganje − kaæe danas Saπa ©aruniÊ. Pet minuta uskoro je opravdao vjeru u njega, postavπi jedan od najboljih primjera onoga zbog Ëega je prije 15 godina Vlada RH osnovala tu srediπnju ustanovu za razvoj i unapreenje inovacijskoga i tehnologijskog sustava s namjerom da potpomogne tehnoloπki razvoj u zemlji. ShoutEm je tako poËeo kao projekt unutar Pet minuta, a kad se u njega nakon dvije godine ukljuËio slovenski investicijski fond RSG Capital s 1,200.000 dolara, registriran je kao zasebna tvrtka. Ubrzo ih je PC World, globalni magazin s bazom u SAD-u, svrstao meu pet softverskih startup tvrtki s kojima

treba raËunati, πto nije malo kad se zna da su ostale Ëetiri ameriËke. Dvije tvrtke trenutaËno zapoπljavaju 50 radnika, uglavnom programera, a osim u Zagrebu i New Yorku sedmero zaposlenih radi u Osijeku, svaki se dan komunicira Skypeom, a meu njima 37-godiπnji Saπa ©aruniÊ je meu najstarijima. U vrijeme najteæe recesije oni su se πirili, zapoπljavali nove ljude i umnogostruËili prihod, a najavljuju da Êe se u 2013. godini integrirati sa Shopifyjem, jednom od vodeÊih svjetskih platformi za stvaranje internetskih trgovina. Uzor su im tvrtke poput Skypea i Nokije, koji su promijenili sliku sjeverne Europe. − Na globalnom træiπtu konkurencija je golema i moæe se opstati samo na temelju kvalitete, stalnog ulaganja u razvoj i kvalitetne korisniËke podrπke − kaæe ©aruniÊ. I, dakako, zbog niæih troπkova, a kako se dobri programeri u Americi viπestruko viπe plaÊaju nego u Hrvatskoj, teπko ih je i naÊi. Kombinacija u kojoj je razvojni tim u Hrvatskoj, a prodaja u New Yorku, zasad dobro funkcionira. I kako se Hrvati nose s novim e-tehnologijama u globalnom svijetu? − Kaskamo, ali nismo ni loπi, treba uloæiti joπ mnogo truda u podruËju obrazovanja kao i glede financiranja razvoja i poticanja izvoza softvera u Ëemu, dakako, pomaæu ustanove poput BICRO-a − kaæe Saπa ©aruniÊ. n

through mobile devices than through their computers. In this sense, it is becoming more and more important for small and large companies to present their contents in a format adapted to mobile phone screen sizes. Companies, especially e-commerce websites or web shop pages, which will not be able to adequately communicate via mobile devices, will lose their customers. − A considerable number of companies already use only mobile applications, realizing that communicating with customers through mobile devices is faster and more efficient than using desktops. This is the situation in the US, and it is rapidly becoming a global trend, and we see a huge opportunity in this new order, says Saπa ©aruniÊ, together with his colleague Viktor MarohniÊ, the co-founder and director of the companies Pet Minuta (Five Minutes) and ShoutEm. The first creates custom-made software, while ShoutEm is the first company in Croatia to build a platform for the fast, cheap and simple creation of mobile applications for all platforms, from the Android to Apple’s iPhone and iPad, where the users do not have to be computer programmers.

t is hard to imagine a company in the business world, whether large or small, that does not have its website. You can open it on your desktop and get all the necessary information, and you know all the rest. And e-commerce is becoming more and more widespread. This is the situation today, but tomorrow it will be different, as 2013 has been announced as the turning point, with more users accessing digital contents

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»ak 98 posto prihoda hrvatske softverske tvrtke Pet minuta i ShoutEm ostvaruju izvozom, mahom na ameriËko træiπte. RijeË je o uspjeπnoj priËi koja se zakotrljala nedavne 2008., kada su dvojica programera, Saπa ©aruniÊ i Viktor MarohniÊ, poπli u avanturu, u sada najkonkurentnijoj branπi u svijetu, s idejom da ponude platformu za jednostavnu izradu mobilnih aplikacija. The Croatian software companies Pet Minuta and ShoutEm realize as much as 98% of their income from exports, mostly to the American market. This success story is fairly recent, when in 2008, two software engineers, Saπa ©aruniÊ and Viktor MarohniÊ, embarked on an adventure in the most competitive industry in the world right now. Their idea was to offer a platform for the simple creation of mobile applications. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ShoutEm is among the first in the world to offer this kind of product, and since it counts on the global market, it has opened an office in New York which is run by four people and headed by Viktor MarohniÊ. Already among the users of ShoutEm products are the prominent daily newspaper US Today, the National Museum of American History, IBM, the rapper 50 Cent, as well as the Croatia-based customers, like the magazines Cosmopolitan and Story and the Motovun Film Festival. A prospective market worth billions is opening to them. They realize as much as 98% of their income from exports, so this is a success story. It started off in 2008 when two software engineers, employed at an Austrian company, quit their jobs and started their own company, Pet Minuta, embarking on an adventure in the most competitive industry in the world right now. Croatian boys from a garage, as they are called, had the experience of creating the social network Trosjed and winning an award for PtiËica, the best website based on Microsoft’s technology. They were presented the award by Microsoft itself in 2007, when they established Pet Minuta as a company for custom-made software development. But, in addition to the smoothly running consulting business, software development and testing for companies like the US-based RealNetworks, they wanted to develop a product of interest to the global market, a website where anyone could start their own social network using Twitter and Facebook as models. While Pet Minuta created custom-made applications, ShoutEm was to be a product for which users would pay a monthly or yearly subscription fee. The product had strong growth potential. One of the ideas was to allow individuals, small and medium

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companies, to start online trading through mobile devices. Another idea was to offer local community portals a platform to reach mobile devices for a small monthly fee. Of course, funds were scarce, and there were no investors, despite impressive prizes and awards, like the one at the conference Mobile 2.0 in Barcelona in 2008, where ShoutEm was selected as one of the three best mobile social networks. That same year, at the conference Le Web in Paris, it was ranked among the 30 best start-up companies in the world, and was awarded the bronze Tesla’s Egg for innovation, as selected by VIDI magazine etc. After wandering from one investor to another to no avail, and participating in conferences, they were ready to give up, Saπa ©aruniÊ remembers. Then they heard of BICRO (BusinessInnovation Center Croatia). They applied and a person from the Center contacted them already the next day. In short, offering assistance to small and medium companies, BICRO, within its Razum program, supported the project worth 350,000 EUR with 70% of funding, which allowed them to hire five people and start the development. − If it was not for BICRO, we would not have been able to do much, because during that early stage, with such an uncertain outcome, nobody was interested in investing, says Saπa ©aruniÊ today. Pet Minuta soon justifi ed the faith put in it, becoming one of the best examples of the reason why the Croatian Government established this central institution for the development and advancement of innovation and the technology system 15 years ago, aiming to support technological development in the country. Thus, ShoutEm began as a project within Pet Minuta, and when the Slovenian investment

fund RSG Capital became involved in it two years later, supplying 1.2 million dollars, it was registered as a separate company. PC World, a global US-based magazine, soon ranked them among the five software startup companies to be reckoned with, which is not a small feat considering that the other four are American companies. The two companies currently employ 50 people, mostly software developers, and in addition to Zagreb and New York, seven employees work in Osijek. Daily communication is done via Skype, and at the age of 37, Saπa ©aruniÊ is among the oldest. When the recession was at its worst, they expanded, hired new people and multiplied their income, and they are announcing their integration with Shopify for 2013, one of the world’s leading platforms for creating web shops. Their role models are companies like Skype and Nokia, which have changed the image of northern Europe. − In the global market, competition is huge and can only survive on the basis of quality, constant investment into development and good user support, ©aruniÊ says. And, of course, lower costs, and since good software engineers in America have salaries several times higher than in Croatia, they are not easy to find. The combination of having the development team in Croatia and sales in New York has worked well so far. And how do Croats cope with new e-technologies in a globalized world? − We are behind, but we are not bad, says Saπa ©aruniÊ. − It is necessary to still invest a lot of effort in the area of education, as well as in the area of financing development and encouraging software export, in which, of course, institutions like BICRO are of great help. n

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■ HUMANOST NA DIJELU HUMANITY IN ACTION

Piše/By Dubravka Belas

a zdrav Ëovjek ima tisuÊu æelja, a bolestan samo jednu ∑ da ozdravi, stara je narodna izreka i ne moæe biti toËnija. Proust kaæe: bolest nas prisili da shvatimo kako ne æivimo sami, nego smo lancem vezani uz biÊe iz drugog svijeta. To biÊe koje nas ne sluti, ne razumije i ne moæemo ga na to natjerati ∑ naπe je vlastito tijelo. A tek djeca? ©to se dogaa kad odjednom zamijene svoj æivot za neki dotad nepoznat i tu? Nau se u posteljama i sve bude bijelo, i bijela vrata i zidovi i bijele kute, a svuda oko njih strani koraci, zvukovi i mirisi. Vrata se otvaraju, ulaze i izlaze nepoznati ljudi. Djeca se umire, ne traæe viπe niπta, a mi mislimo da su strpljivi. Sve πto æele jest da odu kuÊi i sve zaborave i da sve bude kao prije. DjeËje su bolnice pune Ëeænje, sjete. Veselja i smijeha baπ i nema. A onda se dogode oni - Crveni nosevi… Jednoga se jutra na vratima pojavi doktor viπe. Bijela kuta, naoËale... ali neπto ipak nije u redu. Ondje gdje bi trebao biti nos, sjaji se smijeπna crvena loptica. Ispod kute proviruju πarene, preπiroke hlaËe. A kad, pleπuÊi nespretne piruete, uleti u sobu, svi mali pacijenti veÊ znaju da je stigao dr. Ludek. U vizitu dolazi uvijek s nekim u paru, katkad sa smijeπnim doktorom Æuleom, ili doktoricom Ohohoho, moæda i s MaπtaliÊkom. Drugi put bit Êe to u pratnji sestara - sestre Patkice ili LivadiÊke...Upravo je dr. Ludek, u stvarnome æivotu glumac Zoran VukiÊ i umjetniËki direktor udruge, jedan od njezinih osnivaËa. Klauni doktori, dakle, opet su tu, opet u svojoj kratkoj ali urnebesnoj viziti...A kad se nespretni doktori u tim dvominutnim skeËevima poskliznu i poljube svojim crvenim nosevima bolniËke podove, plivajuÊi na suhom poput doktora Crvene Ribice, kad kao pravi akrobati ispreskaËu bolesniËku sobu zvijezdama i kad æonglerima sve loptice poispadaju i razlete se pod djeËje krevetiÊe, a pjevaËi i sviraËi ispune sobu pjesmom i mjehurima od sapunice, bojaæljiv djeËji

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osmijeh provali sve brane i pretvori se u smijeh, neobuzdan i glasan. A smijeh je, tvrde, najbolji lijek. Groucho Marx, jedan od najpoznatijih svjetskih komedijaπa, govorio je: Smijeh je isto πto i aspirin, jedino djeluje dvaput bræe. Ne æelimo li, pak, uvaæiti miπljenje jednoga obiËnog klauna, trebali bismo povjerovati znanstvenim istraæivanjima. A ona govore da smijeh ozdravljuje. Da mu je dobrobit opipljiva, da razgibava viπe od tristo miπiÊa lica i tijela, pa jedna minuta glasnoga smijeha zamjenjuje deset minuta tjelovjeæbe. Disanje nam od smijeha postane dublje, potiËe se cirkulacija i izmjena tvari, sniæava tlak i πeÊer u krvi, razgrauju se hormoni stresa, jaËa imunitet, aktiviraju se obrambene snage organizma. Neki idu dalje i tvrde da smijeh uniπtava tumorske stanice, bakterije i viruse, da sprjeËava diπne infekcije i smanjuje opasnost od srËanih udara. Da je πest minuta smijeha na dan minimalna potrebna doza toga najjeftinijega lijeka. Da smijeh oslobaa od straha i ljutnje i nesanice i boli. Da potiËe dobro raspoloæenje, daje snagu i ohrabruje. MoÊ smijeha takva je da, uistinu, bolnice u kojima klauni nasmijavaju bolesnu djecu ili pacijente koji bolju od Alzheimerove bolesti, jednostavno imaju bolje rezultate u lijeËenju. A kad su Crveni nosevi to Ëuli, odluËili su posjeÊivati i domove za starije osobe. Netko je izraËunao da se odrasli ljudi prosjeËno nasmiju samo petnaest puta na dan, a djeca i do 400 puta. Osim djece u bolnicama. E pa, Crveni nosevi odluËni su to promijeniti. Crveni nosevi udruga su u kojoj glavnu ulogu ima devet profesionalaca ∑ od glumaca do pjevaËa, od akrobata i artista do kaskadera, od æonglera i monociklista do pjevaËa, sviraËa i πkolovanih dvorskih luda, gimnastiËara i voditelja, lutkarica i tipkaËica, sportaπa, crtaËa i fotografa. Ima meu njima, tvrde, baπ pravih sanjalica i ljubitelja ljubiËastoga, jeæeva, kiπe i Ëokolade. Ima ih sa zrncima graπka u glavama, ima ih koji misle da je æivot hitan i ljute se kad ih svrbi nos, a kos je na grani bos. Svi su u srcu djeca i zato se tako dobro razumiju s njima. Za sebe kaæu da diπu dok piπu, danju da æive bajke, a noÊu sanjaju filmove. Redovito posjeÊuju Ëetiri zagrebaËke bolnice, a putuju i na djeËje odjele varaædinske, ËakoveËke, rijeËke, vinkovaËke i splitske bolnice. Pripadaju veÊoj, dvadeset godina staroj obitelji meunarodnih Crvenih noseva sa sjediπtem

u BeËu, koji koordiniraju programe udruge i pomaæu im u radu, πkolovanju i treninzima. Hrvatski Crveni nosevi danas postoje treÊu godinu, i u tom su vremenu ostvarili tristotinjak posjeta bolnicama i domovima za starije i nemoÊne. Svojom vedrinom, smijehom i æivotnom radoπÊu, jedinim poæeljnim bolniËkim infekcijama, neizljeËivo su zarazili viπe od 18.000 bolesnih i nemoÊnih. Sjajnoga li i Ëasnog posla, najboljega na svijetu! Udrugu Crveni nosevi podræavaju Ministarstvo zdravlja Republike Hrvatske i Grad Zagreb. Ipak, a klaunima doktorima to je i najvaænija potpora, znaËajno ih podupiru graani, koji u velikom broju prepoznaju plemenitost njihova rada i znaju da svojim donacijama, ma kako skromne one bile, pomaæu bolesnoj djeci i vraÊaju im osmijeh na lice. Mnoge su i tvrtke koje im æele pomoÊi, pa Êe im poznata francuska tvornica automobila dati na koriπtenje vozilo za posjete bolnicama, a neke marketinπke i PR agencije besplatno Êe im ponuditi svoje usluge, promicati ih, izraditi im plakate. Druge Êe im donirati novac za provedbu programa, a s nekima Êe Crveni nosevi zajedniËki organizirati promidæbene veËere, balove, koncerte, konferencije ili sportska dogaanja. Dio tvrtki ustupit Êe pak svoje proizvode Ëijom se prodajom prikupljaju sredstva za rad klauna doktora. Crveni nosevi, dakako, neÊe prekriæenih ruku Ëekati da im peËene patke padnu s neba, iako se ne bismo mogli kladiti da to nisu pokuπali, nego Êe rado organizirati promidžbene aktivnosti na kojima Êe, u zahvalu za donacije, darovati svoj glavni simbol, crvene nosiÊe. Tako Êe ove godine hrvatski Crveni nosevi u Murteru, u hotelu Colentum, organizirati Meunarodni kamp organizacije RED NOSES Clowndoctors International. Kamp Êe trajati od 18. do 21. lipnja, a na njegovim Êe umjetniËkim i struËnim radionicama, izmjenjujuÊi znanje i iskustvo, sudjelovati oko 150 klaunova i administrativnog osoblja iz partnerskih organizacija osam zemalja. Æelite li ih kontaktirati ili samo saznati viπe o njima, to moæete uËiniti na njihovoj web stranici www.crveninosevi.hr, ili zatraæiti dodatne inforamcije preko e-maila info@crveninosevi.hr. Telefon je njihove izvrπne direktorice Mladenke MajeriÊ 385 99 2550 354 a e-mail mladenka.majeric@crveninosevi.hr. Tvrtke i graani koji æele donirati klaune doktore i osigurati nastavak njihova plemenitog programa mogu svoje dobrovoljne priloge uplatiti na 2484008-1105480641, CRVENI NOSEVI ∑ klaunovidoktori, BogoviÊeva 1, 10.000 Zagreb, OIB: 26996428546. n n old saying goes: A healthy man has a hundred wishes, and a sick man has only one − to get better; and it could

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not be any truer. Proust says: It is in moments of illness that we are compelled to recognize that we live not alone but chained to a creature of a different kingdom, whole worlds apart, who has no knowledge of us and by whom it is impossible to make ourselves understood: our body. And how about children? What happens when they suddenly switch their lives for one that is previously unknown and strange? They find themselves in beds surrounded by the whiteness of the walls, doors and doctors’ frocks. There are strange steps all around, unfamiliar sounds and smells, a white door that keeps opening and strange people come in and out. The children then become still, they ask for nothing. While we may think that they are patient, all the children want is to go home, to forget everything and have everything back to how it was before. Children’s hospitals are full of longing and sadness. There is no joy or laughter, but then they arrive − the Red Noses… One morning, a new doctor appears at the door. White frock − check, glasses − check… But something is not right. Where there should be a nose, there is a funny, bright red ball. Underneath the frock are colourful trousers, much too short and too wide. When he bursts into the room doing clumsy pirouettes, all the little patients know that Doctor Ludo has arrived. He sometimes does rounds with Doctor Æule and Doctor Ohohoho, sometimes even with Doctor Daydream, accompanied by nurses Duckie and LivadiÊ. In real life Dr. Ludo is actor Zoran VukiÊ, the artistic director of the association and one of its founders. Clowndoctors have arrived yet once again to do their short but hilarious rounds. When the clumsy doctors slip and bump their red noses on the hospital floors during their two-minute long sketches, when they swim on dry ground like Doctor Red Fish often does, when they cartwheel their way across the room like veritable circus acrobats, and when the jugglers drop all of their balls underneath the children’s beds, and after the musicians fill the room with song and bubbles made out of soap, the children’s timid smiles break all the barriers and turn into unbridled, loud laughter. And laughter, they say, is the best cure. Groucho Marx, one of the best known clowns in the world, used to say: Laughter is the same as Aspirin, only it works twice as fast. If a clown’s opinion is not convincing enough, one should certainly believe scientific research which says that laughter heals. Its benefits are very tangible: laughter engages more than three hundred muscles in the human body, so one minute of hearty laughter is equal to ten minutes of physical exercise. Laughing makes our breathing deeper, it improves circulation, lowers 126

blood pressure and glucose levels; it eliminates stress hormones, strengthens immunity and activates the organism’s defence forces. Some go even further in saying that laughter kills cancer cells, bacteria and viruses, and that it prevents respiratory infections and decreases the risk of heart attack. They say that six minutes of laughter is the minimal necessary daily dose of this cheapest kind of medicine; that laughter relieves us from fear, anger, insomnia and pain, that it increases a good mood, gives strength and encourages… The power of laughter is so great that hospitals in which clowns make sick children or Alzheimer’s disease patients laugh report better treatment results. As simple as that. When the Red Noses heard this, they also decided to visit retirement homes for the elderly. Someone once calculated that adults laugh fifteen times a day on average, while children laugh up to four hundred times a day; except for children in hospitals. The Red Noses are determined to change that. The Red Noses are an association with nine professional protagonists, including actors, singers, acrobats, artists, stuntmen, jugglers, monocyclists, musicians, professional jesters, gymnasts, puppeteers, typists, athletes and photographers. Among them, they claim, there are real dreamers and fans of purple, hedgehogs, rain and chocolate. Some of them sport little green peas in their heads, and some think that life is a matter of urgency and get angry when their nose itches and a blackbird sits barefoot on a tree branch. They are all children at heart, which is why they get along with them so well. They say for themselves that they breathe while they write; that they live fairy-tales during the day, and dream movies at night. The Red Noses regularly visit four hospitals in Zagreb, and they also travel to children’s wards at hospitals in Varaædin, »akovec, Rijeka, Vinkovci and Split. They belong to the larger, twenty-year-old International Red Noses Association headquartered in Vienna, which coordinates their programmes, helps them in their work and trains them. The Croatian Red Noses have been in existence for three years now, and in that time they have completed around three hundred visits to hospitals and retirement homes for the elderly across the country. They have incurably infected more than 18,000 ill and elderly people with their positive attitudes, laughter and joy of life; the only desirable infections. What an honourable job, among the best in the world! The Red Noses Association is supported by the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Croatia and the City of Zagreb. The Clowndoctors enjoy an even more valuable support, that of ordinary citizens who have

recognized the selflessness of their work and who know that however small their donations may be, they will go a long way in helping to bring a smile back to the faces of sick children. A number of companies have also decided to help the Croatian Red Noses. A French car manufacturer will provide them with a vehicle for their hospital visits. Some marketing and PR agencies have offered their services free of charge; they will give them free advertising and design posters for them. Others will donate money to help them with the implementation of their programmes, and there are also those who will organize promotional evenings, gala dinners, balls, concerts, conferences and athletic events together with the Red Noses Association. There are also companies which will donate products to be sold while the proceeds of the sales will benefit the work of the Clowndoctors. Needless to say, the Red Noses will not twiddle their thumbs and wait for roast ducks to start falling into their laps straight from the sky, although we would certainly not put our money on the off-chance that they did not try even that. On the contrary, they will organize promotional activities during which they will thank their selfless donors with their main symbol − little red noses. This year, for example, the Croatian Red Noses will organize an international Red Noses Clowndoctors International Camp at Hotel Colentum in Murter. Between 18 and 21 June, some 150 clowns and administrative staff members of partner organizations from eight countries will exchange their experiences at artistic and professional workshops. Should you wish to contact them, or learn more about them, you can do it through their web site at www.crveninosevi.hr or you can ask for additional information by sending an e-mail to info@crveninosevi.hr. Their executive director, Mladenka MajeriÊ, can be reached by phone at 385 99 2550 352 or by sending an e-mail to mladenka.majeriÊ@crveninosevi.hr. Companies and citizens who wish to support the Clowndoctors and thus ensure that their noble programmes will go on may make donations to 2484008-1105480641, CRVENI NOSEVI − klaunovidoktori, BogoviÊeva 1, 10000 Zagreb, OIB: 26996428546. n

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Available at all Tourist Information Offices, Cultural Institutions, Hotels, Travel Agencies, ...

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Studenti Z©EM-a − svjetski putnici ZSEM Students − Global Travelers

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vi se rado sjeÊamo studentskih dana kao vremena u kojemu nismo samo uËili i polagali ispite, nego kao vremena u kojemu smo otkrivali svijet, upoznavali nove prijatelje i πirili obzore. Studiranje moæe biti transformirajuÊe iskustvo nakon kojega postajemo globalno mobilni profesionalci, spremni za rad i æivot u bilo kojem kutu svijeta. To je spoznala ZagrebaËka πkola ekonomije i managementa, najbolja poslovna πkola u Hrvatskoj prema rangiranju Eduniversala. S viπe od 100 partnerskih sveuËiliπta diljem svijeta, Z©EM-ovi studenti imaju priliku provesti do godinu dana na studiju u inozemstvu, bez plaÊanja dodatne πkolarine. »ak 15 posto Z©EM-ovih studenata odlazi na razmjenu u zemlje poput SAD-a, Kanade, NjemaËke, Brazila, Juæne Koreje, Tajlanda i drugih. Na temelju tog programa mnogi Z©EMovi studenti nastavljaju svoje obrazovanje ili pronalaze stalno zaposlenje u inozemstvu. Stoga, ako volite letjeti i uËiti, upis na Z©EM pametan je potez. Viπe informacija na www.zsem.hr

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e all fondly remember our student days not only as the time we studied and passed exams, but also as the time in which we discovered the world, made new friends, and expanded our horizons. Studying can be a transformative experience after which we become globally mobile professionals, ready to work and live in any corner of the world. For this reason, the Zagreb School of Economics and Management, Croatia’s best business school according to Eduniversal’s global ranking, has more than 100 partner universities all over the globe. ZSEM students have the opportunity to spend up to one semester on international exchange without paying additional tuition. 15% of ZSEM’s students go on exchange to the U.S., Canada, Germany, Brazil, South Korea, Thailand, and other countries. After this program many students decide to continue their education or find employment abroad. So, if you’re enjoying this flight, and want to travel more, enrolling at ZSEM is a smart move. For more information, please visit www.zsem.hr

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Drvar

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ans Peter Annen veleposlanik je Savezne Republike NjemaËke u Hrvatskoj. Cijeli je profesionalni æivot proveo u diplomaciji, iako to nije planirao. Radio je u SAD-u, Maarskoj, ©panjolskoj, Ukrajini, Albaniji, Italiji i Litvi i, dakako, u NjemaËkoj. U Albaniji i Litvi bio je veleposlanik. Odrastao je u Saveznoj pokrajini Saarland, a studij germanistike, povijesti i sociologije zavrπio je u Saarbrückenu. ■ PoËeli ste raditi kao znanstveni asistent, a zavrπili ste u diplomaciji. Kako ste se na to odluËili? − Za sluæbu u Ministarstvu vanjskih poslova bio sam zapravo posve nepripremljen, no izazov je bio da poËnem neπto posve novo. Moja se supruga suglasila s time. Dolazim iz vrlo jednostavne obrtniËke i zemljoradniËke obitelji. Nitko od nas nije mogao zamisliti æivot

u inozemstvu ili u diplomatskoj sluæbi. Danas svi govorimo o mobilnosti, ali tada, sredinom sedamdesetih godina, to zapravo i nije bio dio naπe zbilje. Zahvalan sam πto sam dobio tu moguÊnost bez obzira na socijalno podrijetlo, tako da mogu reÊi da za mene nije bilo ni socijalnog bonusa ni hendikepa. ■ Uz toliku mobilnost, kako odræavate kontinuitet vlastita æivota? − Fleksibilnost je prirodni preduvjet. No, uvijek mi je u æivotu bilo vaæno imati stabilno sidro. To je moja obitelj, to su moji prijatelji, te zaviËaj i domovina. Stalno odræavam te veze. Uz to uvijek sam nastojao oËuvati vlastitu unutarnju nezavisnost te imati raznolike interese, no pritom ostati s obje noge na zemlji. Napokon, ravnoteæu sam uvijek nalazio u svom zanimanju za glazbu i sport, prije svega nogometu.

■ Vaπ je posao zastupati NjemaËku u svijetu, Vi nam posredujete sliku NjemaËke. Kako Vi doæivljavate svoju domovinu? − NjemaËka je demokratska zemlja. ©arolika je, raznolika, otvorena, ide europskim putem, nauËila je lekcije iz proπlosti. Gotovo deset posto njemaËkog stanovniπtva ima inozemne korijene, meu njima i oko tristo tisuÊa graana hrvatskog porijekla. Mi smo u Europi, Ëvrst dio Europske unije. Odrastao sam u pokrajini koja graniËi s Francuskom i vlastitim sam oËima doæivio velike promjene izmeu naπih dviju zemalja nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata, koje su nakon neprijateljstva kroz stoljeÊa povijesti izgradile bliske prijateljske odnose. Lijep je osjeÊaj danas s lakoÊom prelaziti granice koje su nekoÊ razdvajale. A πto se tiËe mog rada u veleposlanstvu, sve nas doæivljavam kao djelatnike servisnog, usluænog poduzeÊa. Mi pomaæemo u uspostavi i razvoju πto boljih politiËkih, gospodarskih i kulturnih odnosa, omoguÊavamo ljudima susrete, jer to je kljuË suradnje. Vaπu zemlju posjeti gotovo dva milijuna mojih sugraana na godinu, tvorimo Ëetvrtinu svih inozemnih turista, a i broj njemaËkih investicija u vaπoj zemlji vrlo je velik, pri vrhu smo tablice inozemnih ulagaËa. Dakako, za veleposlanstvo sada je u prvom planu njemaËka ratifikacija ugovora o pristupanju Hrvatske Europskoj uniji. Veleposlanstvo je i tu vrlo angaæirano. ■ Kako se osjeÊate u Hrvatskoj? Jeste li i prije posjetili naπu zemlju? − U osamdesetim sam godinama bio kao turist u ©ibeniku i Zadru, plovio sam Kornatima. A sad, moram to istaknuti, supruga i ja osjeÊamo se kod vas sjajno. Rijetko smo se

»vrsto sam uvjeren da Êe Hrvatska u Europskoj uniji biti uspjeπna i aktivna Ëlanica. Pristupanje Europskoj uniji poËetak je novog poglavlja hrvatske povijesti te se reforme nastavljaju. I strongly believe that Croatia will be a successful and active member of the European Union. It is a fact that accession to the European Union represents the beginning of a new chapter in Croatian history, and the reforms will continue. CROATIA AIRLINES

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tako brzo osjeÊali kao kod kuÊe kao ovdje u Hrvatskoj, zemlji u srediπtu Europe. Ljudi su kod vas dostojanstveni, gostoljubivi i otvoreni, zato smo se brzo uklopili. A svia mi se i πto u cijeloj - vrlo lijepoj i raznolikoj - zemlji mogu doæivjeti povijest vrlo neposredno, od rimske antike, preko renesanse pa do baπtine k.u.k. Monarhije i tragova rata devedesetih. Mislim da su NjemaËka i Hrvatska vrlo sliËne kad je rijeË o velikoj i impresivnoj ljepoti i neposrednom dojmu naπih gradova i prirode. ■ ©to mislite da Êe se promijeniti ulaskom Hrvatske u Europsku uniju? − Ulazak Hrvatske u Europsku uniju povijesno je vaæan ne samo za Hrvatsku nego i za Europu. VeÊ je i pretpristupni proces donio Hrvatskoj duboke promjene u politici, gospodarstvu i druπtvu. Pristupanje Europskoj uniji ujedno je i peËat na Ëinjenicu da je Hrvatska dio europske obitelji. Mislim da se ulaskom neÊe odmah automatski rijeπiti svi problemi. Hrvatska je veÊ sada uËinkovita zemlja i bit Êe nam ravnopravan partner, ali kao i svi mi morat Êe se uvelike truditi i stalno razvijati. Pristupanje Europskoj uniji poËetak je novog poglavlja hrvatske povijesti te se reforme nastavljaju. »vrsto sam uvjeren da Êe Hrvatska u Europskoj uniji biti uspjeπna i aktivna Ëlanica. n

H

ans Peter Annen is the ambassador of the Federal Republic of Germany to Croatia. He has worked in diplomacy all of his professional life, although he had never planned that. He worked in the USA, Hungary, Spain, Ukraine, Albania, Italy, Lithuania, and, of course, Germany. He was ambassador to Albania and Lithuania. He grew up in the federal state of Saarland, and completed his university studies in German, history and sociology in Saarbrücken. ■ You started working as a research assistant and ended up in diplomacy. How did you make that decision?

− Actually, I was completely unprepared for my service in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, but I responded to the challenge to start something completely new. My wife agreed to that. I come from a very simple family of craftsmen and farmers. None of us could have imagined a life abroad or in diplomatic service. Today we all talk about mobility, but back then, in the mid 1970s, mobility was actually not our reality. I am grateful that I have had this opportunity notwithstanding my social origins, and I can say that my background was neither a social bonus nor a handicap. ■ But with that much mobility, how do you maintain the continuity of your own life? − Flexibility is a natural prerequisite. However, for me it was always important to have a safe anchor in my life. This anchor is my family, my friends, my homeland and my country. I continually maintain these connections. Also, I have always tried to preserve my own inner independence, and I have various interests, but at the same time I keep both feet on the ground. I have always managed to find that balance in my interest in music and sports, primarily soccer. ■ Your job is representing Germany in the world; you provide a picture of your country to others. How do you perceive your country? − Germany is a democratic country. It is colourful, diverse and open; it follows the European path and has learned lessons from the past. Almost 10 percent of the German population have their roots in foreign countries, including around three hundred thousand German citizens of Croatian origin. We are in Europe, a strong part of the European Union. I grew up in the state which borders France so I have seen with my own eyes the great changes which took place in these two countries after World War II. After being enemies for centuries, we have built very close

Mislim da su NjemaËka i Hrvatska vrlo sliËne kad je rijeË o velikoj i impresivnoj ljepoti i neposrednom dojmu naπih gradova i prirode. I think that Germany and Croatia have many similarities when it comes to the impressive beauty of our towns and nature. 132

and friendly relations. It is a nice feeling today when you easily cross the borders which once separated people. With regard to my work at the Embassy, I perceive all of us as workers in a service providing company. We assist in the establishment and development of as good political, economic and cultural relations as possible; we enable people to meet each other because such contacts are a key to cooperation. Your country is annually visited by almost two million people from my country; we account for one quarter of the total number of foreign tourists, and the number of German investments in your country is very large - we are at the very top of the list of foreign investors. Of course, for the Embassy, the most important activity is the German ratification of the Treaty of Accession for Croatia’s accession to the EU. The Embassy is quite engaged in this. ■ How do you feel in Croatia? Have you visited our country before? − In the 1980s, as a tourist, I visited ©ibenik and Zadar, and sailed around the Kornati Islands. Today, I have to emphasise this, my wife and I feel great in your country. We rarely started feeling at home in such a short period of time like here in Croatia; a country in the centre of Europe. People here are dignified, hospitable and open; thus we quickly fitted in. Also, I like that throughout the country, which is very beautiful and diverse, one can experience history first hand, from the Roman Antique, through the Renaissance, to the heritage of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and the traces of the war in the 1990s. I think that Germany and Croatia have many similarities when it comes to the impressive beauty of our towns and nature. ■ What do you think will change with Croatia’s accession to the European Union? − Croatia’s accession to the European Union is of historical importance not only for Croatia but also for Europe. Even the pre-accession process for Croatia brought about profound changes in politics, economics and society. Accession to the European Union also confirms that Croatia is part of the European family. I do not think that all the problems will be automatically solved with the accession. Croatia is even now an efficient country and will be an equal partner to us, but, just like all of us, Croatia will have to work hard and continuously develop. It is a fact that accession to the European Union represents the beginning of a new chapter in Croatian history, and the reforms will continue. I strongly believe that Croatia will be a successful and active member of the European Union. n

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OŽUJAK/MARCH Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 23.3. - 7.7., Zagreb IZLOÆBA REMEK-DJELA IZ MUZEJA PICASSO, PARIZ/ EXHIBITION OF MASTERPIECES FROM THE PICASSO MUSEUM IN PARIS Izloæba predstavlja 56 slika i skulptura najslavnijeg majstora 20. stoljeÊa - Pabla Picassa. Meunarodni je to projekt Hrvatske i Francuske, Ëiju su realizaciju pokrenule njihove renomirane institucije - Galerija KloviÊevi dvori i Musée National Picasso./The exhibition presents 56 paintings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso, the most famous master of the 20 th century. This international project is the result of cooperation between Croatia and France and their respective renowned institutions - KloviÊevi Dvori Gallery and Musée National Picasso. www.galerijaklovic.com

24.3., Zagreb - »azma OD KAPTOLA DO KAPTOLA/ FROM KAPTOL TO KAPTOL Sudionici meunarodnog atletskog maratona ispituju svoju izdræljivost na stazi duæoj od 60 km, od zagrebaËke do Ëazmanske katedrale./ Par ticipants in this international athletic marathon put their stamina to the test on a route longer than 60 kilometres, from the Zagreb cathedral to the »azma cathedral. www.cazma.hr 23. i/and 24.3., Koprivnica RIBOLOVCI SVOME GRADU/ ANGLERS TO THEIR CITY Otkrijte skrivena blaga u Podravini, upoznajte kulturno-povijesnu baπtinu sjeverozapadne Hrvatske i doæivite ljepotu proljetnih krajolika uz tradicionalnu hranu i vrhunska vina. Posjetite manifestaciju ribolova i kuπajte specijalitete spravljene od rijeËne ribe./Discover the hidden treasures of Podravina, get to know the cultural and historical heritage of northwest Croatia, experience the

beauty of the spring landscape and treat yourself to traditional food and high quality wines. Visit the angling event and taste specialties made from river fish. www.koprivnicatourism.com Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 20. - 24.3., Supetar, BraË BISER MORA/THE PEARL OF THE SEA U sklopu meunarodnoga kulinarskog festivala odræavaju se radionice, prezentacije, gastro-izloæbe i natjecanja u sklopu kojih se predstavljaju profesionalni kuhari, kuhari amateri i turistiËki djelatnici mediteranskih zemalja./Workshops, presentations, food exhibitions and competitions take place within the framework of an international culinary festival and present professional chefs, amateur cooks and tourist professionals from Mediterranean countries. www.supetar.hr 28.3., Jelsa, Hvar PROCESIJA ZA KRIÆEM/ FOLLOWING THE CROSS PROCESSION Jedinstveni obred osobite poboænosti te izraz vjerskoga i kulturnog identiteta stanovnika srediπnjeg dijela otoka Hvara, koji se u neprekinutom nizu odvija pet stoljeÊa./This is a unique ritual symbolizing piety and expression of the religious and cultural identity of the people inhabiting the central part of Hvar. The tradition has continued uninterrupted for five centuries. www.tzjelsa.hr

TRAVANJ/APRIL

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on March, 5. Allow for change after this date.

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Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 19. - 20.4., Zagreb ZAGREB WINE GOURMET WEEKEND 2013./ZAGREB WINE GOURMET WEEKEND 2013 Meunarodni festival enogastronomije, koji se odræava u Gliptoteci HAZU i Centru Kaptol. Mjesto je okupljanja hrvatskih i stranih proizvoaËa, poslovnih ljudi, poznavatelja i zaljubljenika u vino i kuhinju./The international festival of oenology and gastronomy takes place in the Glyptotheque of HAZU and the Kaptol shopping centre. It is the place for Croatian

and foreign manufacturers, business people and wine and food aficionados to meet. www.zagrebwinegourmet.com

20.4. - 28.9., Zagreb ZAGREBA»KI VREMEPLOV/ ZAGREB’S TIME MACHINE Promenadni koncerti na Zrinjevcu i u Maksimiru, glazba u TkalËiÊevoj i na Gornjem gradu, likovi iz proπlosti, kumice s Dolca i folklorni nastupi doËarat Êe vam duh grada i toplinu njegovih stanovnika, baπ kao nekad.../Promenade concerts in Zrinjevac and Maksimir parks, music in TkalËiÊeva Street and in the Upper Town, characters from our past, village women selling their produce at Dolac Market and folklore performances will conjure up the spirit of the city and the warmth of its citizens, like it was once upon a time… www.zagreb.touristinfo.hr

28.4. - 11.5., Zagreb FESTIVAL SV. MARKA/ ST. MARK’S FESTIVAL Organizatori festivala i za ovu godinu najavljuju nastupe domaÊih i gostujuÊih solista i ansambala na zagrebaËkom Gornjem gradu, Ëije Êe vas izvedbe ostaviti bez daha./ Festival organizers have again announced concerts by Croatian and foreign soloists and ensembles in Zagreb’s Upper Town. Their music will take your breath away. www.festivalsvmarka.hr 28.4. 10. FESTIVAL PLIVANJA/ 10 th SWIMMING FESTIVAL Meunarodno plivaËko natjecanje u kategorijama mlae juniorke, kadeti, mlai kadeti i poËetnici./This is an international swimming competition in the following categories: younger

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junior girls, cadets, younger cadets and beginners. www.pkdubrava.hr 1.4. i/and 8.5., Ludbreg DAN CENTRA SVIJETA/ THE DAY OF THE CENTRE OF THE WORLD Ovu manifestaciju Ludbreæani iz godine u godinu upriliËuju na Dan grada. Dogaaj je vezan uz vjerovanje kako se upravo grad Ludbreg nalazi u centru svijeta./Every year the citizens of Ludbreg stage this event on the Day of the City. The event is based on the belief that the town of Ludbreg is in the centre of the world. www.tz-ludbreg.hr 23. - 29.4., Velika Gorica TUROPOLJSKO JURJEVO/ ST. GEORGE’S DAY IN TUROPOLJE D i l j e m ko n ti n e n t a l n e H r vats ke prireuju se 23. travnja sveËanosti temeljene na drevnim narodnim obiËajima. Osobito su impresivni tradicionalni Jurjevski krijesovi./All over continental Croatia, 23 April is the day for festivities which draw their inspiration from ancient popular customs. Particularly impressive are the traditional St. George’s bonfires. www.tzvg.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 14. - 20.4., Slavonski Brod U SVIJETU BAJKI IVANE BRLIΔ MAÆURANIΔ/IN THE WORLD OF IVANA BRLIΔ MAÆURANIΔ’S FAIRYTALES Broani svake godine obiljeæavaju roendan spisateljice Ivane BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ i predaju se razigranoj djeËjoj maπti./Every year, the citizens of Slavonski Brod mark the writer Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ’s birthday and abandon themselves to the playful imagination of children. www.usvijetubajki.org Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 21.4., Rijeka HOMO SI TEΔ/LET US GO RUNNING Najbrojnija uliËna utrka u Hrvatskoj, u kojoj svake godine sudjeluje viπe tisuÊa graana. Uza sportski, odvija se i prigodni zabavni program u srediπtu grada./This is the most popular street race in Croatia which attracts thousands of citizens every year. The sports programme is accompanied by a concurrent entertainment programme in the city centre. www.rimaraton.hr 12. - 24.4., Mali Loπinj 7. FE©TA LO©INJSKE KUHINJE/ 7th FESTA OF LO©INJ CUISINE Promidžba gastronomske ponude otoka Loπinja i izvorne otoËke kuhinje, koja se odræava sedmu godinu

zaredom. Sudjeluju loπinjski ugostitelji koji nude dva specijaliteta o zadanoj temi./The promotion of the gastronomic offer of the island of Loπinj and autochthonous island cuisine is taking place for the seventh consecutive year. Participating Loπinj restaurateurs offer two themed specialties. www.tz-malilosinj.hr 27.4., Lokve ÆABARSKA NOΔ/FROG NIGHT Uz raznoliku gastronomsku ponudu æabljih jela, vrhunac je veËeri poznato natjecanje u æabljim skokovima./Besides the varied gastronomic offer of frog dishes, the pinnacle of the evening is the well known competition of frog jumping. www.tz-lokve.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 27.4. - 15.9., Faæana MALA RIBARSKA AKADEMIJA SRDELA/A LITTLE SARDINE FISHING ACADEMY ProlazeÊi Cestom srdela, upoznat Êete po restoranima i konobama Faæane mnoge naËine pripreme srdele. Moæete sudjelovati i u posebnoj faæanskoj ©koli soljenja srdele./Walking along the Sardine road, you will learn about various ways to prepare sardines in Faæana’s numerous restaurants and wine cellars. You can partake in Faæana’s special School of Salting Sardines. www.istria-fazana.com Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 26. - 28.4., Sv. Filip i Jakov DANI CVIJEΔA/FLOWER DAYS Travanj je u Sv. Filipu i Jakovu u znaku cvijeÊa. Festival cvijeÊa zadarske æupanije omoguÊuje vam sudjelovanje na eko-radionicama, prezentacijama, prigodnim savjetovanjima i predavanjima, natjecanjima aranæera, izloæbama i modnim revijama./The month of April in Sv. Filip i Jakov is all about flowers. The flower festival of Zadar County allows you to participate in ecological workshops, presentations, themed lectures, a competition of flower arrangers, exhibitions and fashion shows. www.sv-filipjakov.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 25.4. - 15.5., Split SUDAMJA 2012. NEKA RIVA U CVIΔU PLIVA/SUDAMJA 2012, LET THE SEASHORE SWIM IN FLOWERS Zaπtitnik grada Splita sv. Duje veÊ dugi niz godina svetkuje se i obiljeæava ujedno kao dan grada − 7. svibnja. U tom razdoblju Split vam nudi niz kulturnih, zabavnih i sportskih manifestacija./St. Domnius, the patron saint of the city of Split, has been celebrated and marked for a number

of years as the day of the city on 7 May. During that period Split offers a series of cultural, entertainment and sporting events. www.tzjelsa.hr

SVIBANJ/MAY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 23.5.2013., Zagreb DEPECHE MODE U ZAGREBU/ DEPECHE MODE IN ZAGREB Koncert megapopularnog benda Depeche Mode odræat Êe se 23. svibnja na stadionu Maksimir, a na njemu Êe predstaviti svoj najnoviji, trinaesti studijski album koji Êe izaÊi na proljeÊe. Bit Êe to njihov prvi nastup uæivo nakon 2010. godine./The mega popular band Depeche Mode will hold a concert on 23 May at Maksimir Stadium. They will promote their most recent, 13th studio album which will be released this spring. This will be their first live appearance since 2010. www.eventim.hr

svibanj-rujan (petak-subota)/ May -September (Friday-Saturday), Zagreb TAJNE GRI»A/SECRET OF GRI» Obilazak Gornjega grada u kasnim veËernjim satima namijenjen je posjetiteljima i graanima Zagreba, koji æele upoznati povijesnu i tajnovitu stranu glavnoga grada./A tour of the Upper Town late in the evening has been designed for citizens and visitors of Zagreb who wish to get to know the capital’s historic and somewhat mysterious side www.tajnegrica.hr 23.5. - 29.9. LJETO NA STROSSU/SUMMER AT STROSS Na jednome od najromantiËnijih dijelova zagrebaËkoga Gornjeg grada Strossmayerovom πetaliπtu - odræava se manifestacija u sklopu koje se svakoga dana posjetiteljima nude besplatni koncerti etno, jazz, soul, rock i drugih glazbenika. Tu je i likovna kolonija i druge zanimljivosti./Strossmayer’s Promenade, one of the most romantic parts of Zagreb’s Upper Town, is the venue of a programme featuring daily free concerts of world music, jazz, soul, rock and others. It also comprises an artist’s colony and other interesting prospects. www.ljetonastrossu.com

25.5. OTVORENO PRVENSTVO GRADA ZAGREBA I 12. MEMORIJALNA UTRKA MATIJE LJUBEKA/THE CITY OF ZAGREB OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP AND THE 12 th MATIJA LJUBEK MEMORIAL RACE Svake godine na Sportsko-rekreacijskom centru Jarun odræava se memorijalna utrka Matije Ljubeka na 1000 m u kanuu jednokleku. Ta je disciplina i jedna od najzanimljivijih, a nagrade su vrijedne./Every year, the Jarun athletic and recreational grounds are the venue of the Matija Ljubek 1000 meter one-man kayak memorial race. This discipline is one of the most interesting ones and the awards are really attractive. www.kkkmatijaljubek.hr 29.5. - 2.6. FLORAART/FLORAART Na zagrebaËkom jezeru Bundek odræava se izloæba cvijeÊa Floraart, na kojoj vas oËekuju bezbrojne kombinacije boja i opojni mirisi raznolikog i zanimljivo dekoriranog cvijeÊa./Zagreb’s Bundek Lake is the venue of the Floraart Flower Exhibition where you will see an endless combination of colours and imbibing fragrances of varied and interestingly arranged flowers. www.floraart.net

17. - 19.5., Sveti Ivan Zelina ME–UNARODNI VITE©KI TURNIR SVETE HELENE/ INTERNATIONAL KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENT IN SVETA HELENA Na ovome turniru ne morate biti samo promatraË viteπkih borbi, okuπajte se i vi u gaanju lukom i strijelom, provezite se koËijom ili jaπite./You do not have to be a mere observer of knights’ fights at this tournament; you can try your hand at archery, take a ride in a horse and carriage or try horseback riding. www.tz-zelina.hr www.vitezovi-zelingradski.hr 25.5. - 2.6., Meimurje Wine Road URBANOVO∑DANI VINA U ÆUPANIJI ZRINSKIH/ST. URBAN’S − DAYS OF WINE IN ZRINSKI COUNTY U vinskim kuπaonicama na Meimurskoj vinskoj cesti moæete uæivati u priznatim vinima i tradicionalnim meimurskim kulinarskim specijalitetima./Wine tasting rooms CROATIA AIRLINES

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along the Meimurje Wine Road is the place where you can enjoy vintage wines and the traditional culinary specialties of Meimurje. www.tic-strigova.hr Karlovac i okolica/Karlovac and surroundings 25. - 26.5., Dubovac SAJAM VLASTELINSTVA DUBOVAC/NOBILITY FAIR IN DUBOVAC Dubovac je æivio burnim trgovaËkim æivotom davno prije nego πto je Karlovac utemeljen, stoga stanovnici toga kraja prireuju veliki sajam na kojemu Êete se upoznati sa srednjovjekovnim obiËajima, zanatima, oruæjem, igrama i jelima./Long before Karlovac was founded, Dubovac lived an exciting life as a centre of trade. That is why the locals stage a large trade fair where you will get acquainted with medieval customs, crafts, weapons, games and food. www.karlovac-touristinfo.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 4. 5., Vukovar 8. FESTIVAL DUHOVNE GLAZBE BONOFEST/THE 8th FESTIVAL OF SPIRITUAL MUSIC BONOFEST Na ovom festivalu duhovne glazbe predstavljaju se glazbenici te potiËu tekstopisci i skladatelji na pisanje novih duhovnih skladbi/Musicians present themselves at this festival of spiritual music while songwriters and composers are motivated to produce new spiritual songs. www.laudato.hr 29.5. - 1.6., Poæega HRVATSKI FESTIVAL JEDNOMINUTNIH FILMOVA/ THE CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF ONE-MINUTE FILMS Na ovom festivalu pogledajte zbirku filmova svih æanrova, tematika i poruka, Ëija je zajedniËka nit jednominutno trajanje. U samo jednoj minuti film mora sadræavati sve zadane elemente priËe; zaplet, vrhunac i rasplet radnje./ At this festival, you can see films of all genres, themes and messages. Their common characteristic is their duration ∑ just one minute. During the one minute, every movie has to have all the elements of a story: a plot, a climax and a resolution. www.crominute.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 3. - 11.5., Rijeka ME–UNARODNI FESTIVAL MALIH SCENA/INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF SMALL SCENES Ovaj je rijeËki festival omiljeno okupljaliπte europskih kazaliπtaraca koji njeguju nekonvencionalan pristup 136

scenskom razmiπljanju./This festival, which takes place in Rijeka, is a favourite gathering spot of European theatre professionals who foster an unconventional approach to thinking about theatre. www.theatrefestival-rijeka.hr 26.5., PoreË WINE DAY-DAN OTVORENIH VINSKIH PODRUMA U ISTRI/ WINE DAY-THE DAY OF OPEN WINE CELLARS IN ISTRIA Posljednje nedjelje u svibnju obiljeæava se svjetski Dan vina, a od 1999. godine obiljeæavaju ga i istarski vinari. Stoga doite toga dana u neki od istarskih vinskih podruma./The last Sunday in May marks the World Day of Wines. Since 1999, it has been marked by Istrian wine makers. Therefore, come to one of the Istrian wine cellars on that day. www.istra.hr./www.istra.com Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 5.5. i/and 5.8., Nin HODO»A©ΔE NA BLAGDAN GOSPE OD ZE»EVA/ PILGRIMAGE ON THE DAY OF OUR LADY OF ZE»EVO Na dan ukazanja, 5. svibnja, utemeljen je blagdan Gospe od ZeËeva. Vjernici iz raznih krajeva dolaze na otoËiÊ ZeËevo u srcu Ninske biskupije i hodoËaste Blaæenoj Djevici Mariji zbog potvrenih Ëudotvornih dogaanja koja su se zbila tijekom proteklih pet stotina godina./The holiday of Our Lady of ZeËevo is celebrated on the apparition day, 5 May. Believers from different corners come as pilgrims to the Blessed Virgin Mary on the islet of ZeËevo in the heart of the Nin Diocese where miracles have been confirmed to have happened over the past five hundred years. www.nin.hr ©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik i okolica 1. i/and 2. 5., Skradin EKO-ETNO SAJAM/ ECOLOGICAL AND ETNOLOGICAL FAIR Posjetite skradinski eko-etno sajam na kojemu moæete nauËiti sve πto ste ikada htjeli znati o kulturi i povijesti toga kraja./Visit the Eco-ethno fair in Skradin and learn everything you ever wanted to know about the culture and history of that region. www.skradin.hr 31.5. - 2.6., Biograd n/m FESTIVAL BIOGRADSKI STOL/ THE BIOGRAD TABLE FESTIVAL Ugostitelji Zadarske æupanije za goste pripremaju hranu od izvornih proizvoda po originalnim recepturama i posluæuju je, veÊ tradicionalno, na πest stotina metara dugaËkom stolu./ Chefs in Zadar County prepare their

meals using local ingredients according to original recipes and they serve them, according to tradition, on a six hundred metre long table. www.biogradnamoru.hr Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 8. - 11.5., Hvar DANI HVARSKOG KAZALI©TA/ THE DAYS OF THE HVAR THEATRE Brojne predstave prikazuju se na pozornici staroga hvarskog kazaliπta i drugim lokacijama u gradu, a sve su prilagodbe tekstova hrvatskih knjiæevnika./A number of theatre shows are staged in the old Hvar theatre and on other locations around the city. All of them are theatre adaptations of Croatian writers’ texts. www.tzhvar.hr 15.5. - 15.10., Hvar HVARSKE LJETNE PRIREDBE/ SUMMER EVENTS IN HVAR Grad je Hvar tijekom ljetnih mjeseci domaÊin mnogim kazaliπnim skupinama, glazbenicima i folklornim sastavima iz Hrvatske i inozemstva./ During the summer months, the city of Hvar is host to many theatre troupes, musicians and folklore bands from Croatia and abroad. www.tzhvar.hr

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 25. - 28.5., Dubrovnik DUBROVNIK INTERNATIONAL WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL/ DUBROVNIK INTERNATIONAL WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL Festival meunarodno priznate jazz, blues, pop i crossover glazbe u sklopu kojega se odræavaju brojni koncerti ali i prezentiraju domaÊi vinari, obrtnici iz regije te autohtona dalmatinska kuhinja./This is a festival of internationally recognized jazz, blues, pop and crossover music featuring numerous concerts and presentations of local wine makers, regional craftsmen as well as the authentic Dalmatian cuisine. www.dubrovnik.hr 16. - 19.5., MetkoviÊ SMOTRA FOLKLORA NA NERETVU MISE»INA PALA/ THE MOONLIGHT FELL ON THE NERETVA FOLKLORE FESTIVAL U MetkoviÊu se okupljaju folklorne skupine iz cijele Hrvatske i inozemstva te pjesmom i plesom skladaju

odu Mjesecu nad voljenom rijekom Neretvom./MetkoviÊ is the gathering place of folklore bands from all over Croatia and abroad who come to pay homage to the moon over the beloved river with their songs and dances. www.metkovic.hr

LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 3.6. - 12.6. CEST IS D’BEST Ovaj festival pretvara ulice zagrebaËkog središta u vedri i optimistiËni svijet cirkusa i uliËnog teatra./This festival transforms the streets in downtown Zagreb into a bright and optimistic world of circus and street theatre. www.cestisdbest.com 4. - 9.6. ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2013./ ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2013 Svjetski festival animiranog filma posveÊen je dugometraænom animiranom filmu u trajanju od najmanje 60 minuta./The world festival of animated movies is dedicated to feature animated movies lasting no less than 60 minutes. www.animafest.hr 2. - 9.6., Daruvar VINODAR-IZLOÆBA VINA/ VINODAR-WINE EXHIBITION Grad se iz urbanog pretvara u sajmeno srediπte koje posjetiteljima uz izloæbu vina nudi i bogatu gastronomsku ponudu i sajam tradicionalnih obrta./From an urban settlement, the city becomes transformed into a centre of trade which offers its visitors a wine exhibition, a rich offer of food and a traditional arts and crafts fair. www.daruvar.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 1. - 16.6., Slavonski Brod BRODSKO KOLO/THE SLAVONSKI BROD KOLO Najstarija smotra folklora u Hrvatskoj, koja obuhvaÊa razliËite programe poput likovnih i etnografskih izloæbi, predstavljanje knjiga, djeËje smotre, smotre sveËanih zaprega, smotre izvornog pjevanja, smotre izvornog folklora, revije hrvatskih narodnih noπnji te izbora najljepπe Hrvatice u narodnoj noπnji./This is the oldest folklore review in Croatia which comprises different sorts of programmes, like fine art and ethnographic exhibitions, book presentations, children’s reviews, processions of festively decorated horse and carriages, original singing, Croatian national costumes, and last but not least, the Miss Croatia in a national costume pageant. www.brodsko-kolo.com

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1.6. - 31.7., Pakrac PAKRA»KO LJETO/SUMMER IN PAKRAC Posjetitelji mogu pogledati kazaliπne predstave, pratiti brojne sportske susrete, a sva su dogaanja u znaku srednjeg vijeka./Visitors can attend theatre shows and sporting events, all themed around the Middle Ages. www.pakrac.hr 8.6. - 7.7., –akovo –AKOVA»KI VEZOVI/ –AKOVA»KI VEZOVI U –akovu se predstavljaju tri oblika kulturne tradicije Slavonije - folklor, gastronomija te tradicija uzgoja konja./In –akovo, three aspects of Slavonian cultural traditions are presented: folklore, gastronomy and the horse breeding tradition. www.tz-djakovo.hr 14. i/and 15.6., PitomaËa PJESME PODRAVINE I PODRAVLJA/SONGS OF PODRAVINA AND PODRAVLJE Ovaj glazbeni festival, na kojemu svake godine nastupaju poznati izvoaËi hrvatske tradicionalne glazbe, posveÊen je njegovanju puËke suvremene pjesme./Every year this musical festival features well known performers of Croatian traditional music. It is dedicated to fostering contemporary popular songs. www.pitomacafestival.hr

Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 13. - 16.6., Rijeka FIUMANKA/FIUMANKA JedriliËari iz svih krajeva svijeta okupljaju se jedanput godiπnje na jedriliËarskoj regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se odræava na ruti od Rijeke do Omiπlja i natrag. To je neizostavan dogaaj za sve ljubitelje sportskog adrenalina./Sailing boat aficionados from all over the world gather once a year at the sailing regatta Velika Fiumanka which takes place en route from Rijeka to Omiπalj and back. This is a not to be missed event for all sports adrenaline junkies. www.fiumanka.hr 15. 6., Rijeka PROSLAVA BLAGDANA SV. VIDA/ST. VITUS DAY CELEBRATION Blagdan sv. Vida, zaπtitnika Rijeke, obiljeæava se svake godine 15. lipnja kad se u crkvici odræava bogosluæje uz hodoËaπÊe. Takoer, u gradu se odræavaju sportske, kulturne i zabavne manifestacije./The holiday of St. Vitus, the patron saint of Rijeka, is marked every year on 15 July with a pilgrimage and a service in the little church. Sporting, cultural and entertainment events take place in the city itself. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info

27.6. - 25.7., Rijeka RIJE»KE LJETNE NOΔI/ SUMMER NIGHTS IN RIJEKA RijeËki se trgovi, ulice i terase pretvaraju u kazaliπnju pozornicu. OËekuju vas izvedbe klasiËnih drama i novijih dramskih tekstova, koncerti klasiËne glazbe, nastupi uliËnih teatara i koncerti estradnih zvjezda./Rijeka’s squares, streets and terraces turn into a theatre stage. You can look for ward to the per formances of classical dramas and more recent plays, concerts of classical music, street theatre shows and pop star concerts. www.rijeckeljetnenoci.com 6.6. - 31.8., Kastav KASTAFSKO KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER IN KASTAV Predstave, koncerti domaÊih i inozemnih glazbenika te razliËite izloæbe pridonose romantiËnom ugoaju kojim ovo dogaanje πarmira svoje goste./Performances, concerts of local and foreign musicians and various exhibitions contribute to the romantic atmosphere which charms the guests of this festival. www.kkl.hr 7. - 9.6., Ogulin OGULINSKI FESTIVAL BAJKE/ FAIRYTALE FESTIVAL IN OGULIN Ogulinci svake godine u Ëast Ivani BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, popularnoj spisateljici bajki što oduπevljavaju djecu, prireuju ovaj festival koji njihov grad pretvara u svijet iz bajke./Every year, the citizens of Ogulin pay homage to Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, the popular author of fairytales which delight children. They organize this festival which turns their town into a fairytale city. www.ogfb.hr 10. - 25.6., Mali Loπinj MORAM U MORE/I NEED TO THE SEA Festival je posveÊen moru i æivotu ljudi s otoka, a oËekuje vas niz dogaanja i izloæbi./The festival is dedicated to the sea and the life of the islanders. You can look forward to a series of events and exhibitions. www.tz-malilosinj.hr 15.6. - 15.9., Malinska KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER Malinska na otoku Krku svojim gostima nudi impresivan kulturni program koji obogaÊuje ljetni odmor. Tijekom ljetnih mjeseci iz Samostana sv. Marije Magdalene πire se zvuci klasiËnih instrumenata, a u Galeriji sv. Nikole moæete uæivati u likovnim djelima./ Malinska on the island of Krk offers its guests an impressive cultural programme which makes a summer holiday more eventful. During the summer months, the sounds of classical instruments resound from the St.

Mary Magdalena Monastery, whereas you can enjoy works of art in the St. Nicholas Gallery. www.tz-malinska.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 13. - 15.6., Pula PULA SUPERIORUM/PULA SUPERIORUM Posjetite Pulu jer njezine se ulice na nekoliko dana pretvaraju u pozornice slikovitoga rimskog teatra, a Arena ponovno postaje mjesto odræavanja gladijatorskih borbi./Visit Pula, whose streets become stages of a picturesque Roman theatre for a couple of days, while the Arena again becomes the venue for gladiator fights. www.pulasuperiorum.com 25. - 29.6./25-29 June, PoreË VALAMAR JAZZ FESTIVAL Festival, koji predstavlja istaknuta imena svjetskog jazza na jedinstvenim lokacijama mediteranskog bisera, grada PoreËa, nudi uæitak sjajne glazbe, nedirnute prirode i bogata povijesnog naslijea. Uæivajte u koncertima u Eufrazijevoj bazilici i na prekrasnom otoËiÊu Sveti Nikola te u svom jazz-odmoru./Festival, hosting the prominent names of the world jazz on the unique locations of one of the Mediterranean gems, PoreË, offers the pleasure of great music, untouched nature and rich historical heritage. Enjoy concerts in Euphrasian Basilica and on the beautiful island of Sveti Nikola, and your jazz vacation. www.valamarjazz.com Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings lipanj-rujan, Novalja/ June - September, Novalja NOVALJSKO KULTURNO LJETO/CULTURAL SUMMER IN NOVALJA Nakon πto proslave dan svoga grada na blagdan svetog Antuna, 13.6., Novaljci poËinju dugo toplo ljeto bogato razliËitim kulturno-umjetniËkim i zabavnim sadræajima./After celebrating their town’s day, on St. Anthony’s Day on 13 June, the locals of Novalja embark on a long hot summer rife with various cultural, artistic and entertainment packed events. www.tz-novalja.hr 4. - 8.6., Starigrad-Paklenica TRAGOVIMA WINNETOUA/ FOLLOWING WINNETOU’S TRAIL Doæivite lokacije na kojima se snimao film o hrabrom poglavici Winnetouu - Paklenicu, Krku i PlitviËka jezera, uæivajte u prirodnim ljepotama, okuπajte se u jahanju, sjednite uz logorsku vatru i kuπajte razne delicije./ Experience the locations where the movie about the brave Indian chief

Winnetou was filmed - Paklenica, the Krka and Plitvice Lakes; enjoy the beauties of nature, try horseback riding, sit around a campfire and taste various delicacies. www.rivijera-paklenica.hr ©ibenik i okolica/©ibenik and surroundings 22.6. - 6.7., ©ibenik 53. ME–UNARODNI DJE»JI FESTIVAL/THE 53 rd INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL ©ibenik Êe i ove godine biti domaÊin djeci te svoje ulice, trgove i pozornice prepustiti raspjevanoj i kreativnoj djeci svijeta./This year ©ibenik will again be host to children and open its streets, squares and stages to the singing and dancing and creative children of the world. www.mdf-si.org Split i okolica/Split and surroundings 15. - 30.6., Split FESTIVAL ULI»NIH ZABAVLJA»A/A FESTIVAL OF STREET ENTERTAINERS Na meunarodnom festivalu uliËnih zabavljaËa, umjetnici i performeri neformalnoga umjetniËkog izraæavanja iz 16 zemalja zabavit Êe goste i graane na šest lokacija u Splitu./Artists and performers who foster informal forms of artistic expression from 16 different countries of the world will entertain the citizens and guests of Split at six different locations in Split during an international festival of street entertainers. www.visitsplit.com Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 21. - 23.6., Dubrovnik ANA U GRADU/ANA IN THE CITY Tijekom vikend festivala predstavit Êe se Ana Rucner, vrsna violonËelistica prepoznatljiva glazbenog stila i osebujnih scenskih nastupa./During the weekend festival, Ana Rucner, an excellent cellist recognized for her trademark musical style and attractive stage performance, will appear in Dubrovnik. lipanj-listopad/June-October, KorËula TRADICIJA VITE©KIH IGARA/ KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENTS TRADITION U gradu i na otoku KorËuli moæete doæivjeti izvedbu moreπke, tradicionalnih maËevalaËkih plesova koji simboliziraju borbu izmeu dobra i zla./In the city and on the island of KorËula you can attend moreπka, a traditional dance with swords which symbolizes the battle between good and evil. www.korcula.net CROATIA AIRLINES

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obavljanje svih financijskih transakcija, uz uštedu vremena i novca niže naknade za provođenje transakcija sigurna, brza i jednostavna usluga mPBZ možete ugovoriti u svim PBZ poslovnicama ili putem internetskog bankarstva

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 140 NOVOSTI NEWS 142 NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI OUR STAFF 146 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 150 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 153 FLOTA FLEET 155 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 157 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 158 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 160 ADRESE ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

Saturdays. We will also connect two tourist pearls - Dubrovnik and Venice, on Thursdays and Sundays from May to October. KUPUJTE ZRAKOPLOVNE KARTE PREKO INTERNETA

NOVOSTI U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA

Croatia Airlines nudi vam tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (31.3.- 26.10.) nove moguÊnosti i povoljnije cijene putovanja kako biste πto kvalitetnije proveli svoj odmor ili poslovno putovanje. Naπi Êe zrakoplovi u meunarodnom prometu ponovno povezati hrvatske gradove s Atenom i Barcelonom. Na liniji Zagreb∑Dubrovnik∑Atena i Zagreb∑Barcelona letjet Êemo utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom, od travnja do listopada. Novosti su u ljetnom redu letenja da Êe Croatia Airlines povezivati Pulu s Frankfurtom utorkom i Ëetvrtkom od svibnja do listopada, a Split s Kasselom Ëetvrtkom u istom razdoblju. Poletite iz Splita u Beograd i obratno ponedjeljkom i petkom od svibnja do rujna. Iz Splita u Düsseldorf moæete otputovati srijedom i subotom, a iz Splita u Berlin subotom, od svibnja do listopada. Povezivat Êemo i dva turistiËka bisera ∑ Dubrovnik i Veneciju ∑ Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom, od svibnja do listopada.

Another novelty in the summer flight schedule is that, during the period from May until October, Croatia Airlines will connect Pula and Frankfurt with flights on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and Split and Kassel on Thursdays. From May to September, you will be able to fly from Split to Belgrade and vice versa on Mondays and Fridays. Also, during the same period, from May until October, you will be able to fly from Split to Düsseldorf on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and from Split to Berlin on

Croatia Airlines veÊ jedanaest godina omoguÊuje vam rezervaciju i kupnju zrakoplovnih karata preko svoje web stranice www.croatiaairlines.hr, kako biste πto jednostavnije organizirali svoje putovanje. Preko FlyOnLine usluge moæete sami odabrati let u poslovnom ili ekonomskom razredu, rezervirati odreeno sjedalo i obrok, a tijekom procesa online rezervacije i kupnje toËno je odreena cijena karte i pripadajuÊe pristojbe zraËnih luka, kao i naknada za izdavanje putniËke karte. FlyOnLine Club nagrauje lojalnost online korisnika, odnosno nakon pet uspjeπnih online rezervacija i plaÊanja obavljenih karticom putnika u razdoblju od jedne godine, putnici ostvaruju pravo na jednu besplatnu kartu na letovima Croatia Airlinesa. Svoje karte preko interneta moæete plaÊati kreditnim i Maestro karticama te NetPay uslugom Erste banke. Kompanija se pobrinula za sigurnost online transakcija, odnosno zaπtitu korisniËkih podataka, te je dobila nagradu za integraciju procesa plaÊanja preko interneta. Stoga koristite se online uslugama Croatia Airlinesa i ostvarite pogodnosti pri kupnji zrakoplovnih karata.

NOVELTIES IN THE SUMMER FLIGHT SCHEDULE

During the summer flight schedule (31.3 26.10), Croatia Airlines offers new possibilities and more favourable prices for your travels, therefore enabling you to have better quality holidays and business trips. In terms of international traffic, our aircraft will again connect Croatian cities with Athens and Barcelona. On the Zagreb-Dubrovnik-Athens and ZagrebBarcelona routes, from April to October, we will have flights on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. 140

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BUY YOUR AIR TICKETS VIA THE INTERNET

For as many as eleven years, Croatia Airlines has been offering the opportunity to book and buy your air tickets via its web page www.croatiaairlines.com, so that you can organize your travels in the simplest possible way. With our FlyOnLine service, you can personally select your flights in either business or economy class, book a particular seat or a specific meal, and during the online booking and purchasing process the price of the ticket and related airport fees are clearly specified, as well as the fees for the issuance of the air ticket. The FlyOnLine Club awards the loyalty of its online users. After five successful online bookings and payments carried out by using a traveller’s membership card during the period of one year, travellers are entitled to one free of charge air ticket on a Croatia Airlines’ flight. You can pay for your tickets via the internet using credit cards or Maestro cards, or the NetPay service offered by Erste Bank. The company has ensured the safety of online transactions, i.e. the protection of user data, and has won an award for the integration of payment transactions via the internet. Hence, we encourage you to use Croatia Airlines’ online services and enjoy the benefits offered to you when purchasing your air tickets.

pages in Croatia in the category Tourism and Travels, thus winning the prestigious title VIDI WEB TOP 10. The best web pages and mobile applications in 2012 have been selected for 11 different categories by as many as 40 renowned experts from 30 media houses and organisations from Croatia and the region. This time, the expert committee, comprising 20 professionals from this field, additionally raised the evaluation criteria so that the most recent global trends in the production of web services and applications are taken into account. Hence, in addition to high quality content, the application of innovation, concept intuitiveness and well created and functional design were also assessed. The internet contest VIDI WEB Top 100 is one of the oldest web contests in Europe, having promoted many of today’s well known and successful web pages. CROATIA AIRLINES PONOVNO SUPERBRAND

Naπa je kompanija 5. prosinca u hotelu Westin u Zagrebu ponovno primila globalnu nagradu Superbrands Croatia 2012. za najbolje brandove na hrvatskom træiπtu. StruËni æiri i potroπaËi odabrali su, u konkurenciji 1200 ocjenjivanih brandova, 78 najboljih brandova u dvadesetak kategorija. U online

izboru sudjelovalo je takoer viπe od 27.000 potroπaËa. Standardizirani kriteriji odabira primjenjuju se u viπe od 90 zemalja svijeta u kojima Superbrands, na temelju definiranih kriterija (kvaliteta, pouzdanost, razlikovnost i emocionalni naboj), obavlja selekciju i promidæbu najboljih brandova. Prvi put dodijeljene su i nagrade Green Superbrands za brandove s visokom ekoloπkom svijeπÊu. CROATIA AIRLINES CONFIRMS ITS POSITION OF A SUPERBRAND

On 5 December 2012, at the Westin Hotel in Zagreb, our company once again received the global award Superbrands Croatia 2012 for the best brands on the Croatian market. From 1,200 brands in the competition, the expert jury and consumers selected 78 best brands in some twenty categories. Over 27,000 consumers took part in the online selection. The standardised criteria for the selection are applied in more than 90 countries worldwide in which Superbrands carries out the selection and promotion of the best brands based on defined criteria (quality, reliability, differentiability and emotional strength). For the first time, the Green Superbrands awards were handed out for brands with high ecological awareness.

NA©A WEB STRANICA UVR©TENA ME–U 10 NAJBOLJIH

Na nacionalnom internetskom natjeËaju VIDI WEB Top 100 za 2012. godinu, naπa web stranica www.croatiaairlines.hr proglaπena je jednom od 10 najboljih web stranica u Hrvatskoj u kategoriji Turizam i putovanja, te joj je tako dodijeljena prestiæna titula VIDI WEB TOP 10. Najbolje web stranice i mobilne aplikacije u 2012. godini u 11 razliËitih kategorija odabralo je Ëak 40-ak renomiranih struËnjaka iz Ëak 30 medijskih kuÊa i organizacija iz Hrvatske i regije. Ovaj put struËno vijeÊe sastavljeno od 20 profesionalaca iz struke dodatno je podignulo letvicu ocjenjivanja kako bi se uvaæili najnoviji svjetski trendovi u proizvodnji web servisa i aplikacija te se osim dobrog i kvalitetnog sadræaja mogu pogledati i primjene inovacija, intuitivnost koncepta, ali i dobar i funkcionalan dizajn. Internetski natjeËaj VIDI WEB Top 100 jedan je od najstarijih web natjeËaja u Europi, koji je promicao mnoge, danas poznate i uspjeπne web stranice. OUR WEB PAGE RANKED AMONG 10 BEST

At the national internet contest VIDI WEB Top 100 for 2012, our web page www.croatiaairlines. com was selected as one of the 10 best web CROATIA AIRLINES

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NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI VAMA NA USLUZI OUR STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE

R. IbriševiÊ

Piše/By Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ

Svestrana Blaženka

N

aπa svestrana kolegica Blaæenka Poljak pridruæila se Croatia Airlinesu 1991. godine kao domaÊica zrakoplova. Danas je voditeljica kabine zrakoplova te trenerica i instruktorica u ©kolskom centru. Na razliËitim specijaliziranim teËajevima, s mnogo entuzijazma, svim zainteresiranim zaposlenicima prenosi svoja iskustva, znanje i vjeπtine, a to je bio poticaj za naπ razgovor. Naπa je kolegica diplomirala na Viπoj medicinskoj πkoli i pedagogiju na Filozofskom fakultetu. Nakon viπegodiπnjeg rada u zdravstvu i Ëestih pogleda u nebo, usudila se ostvariti svoj san - kretati se nebom. Zavrπila je obuku za domaÊicu zrakoplova u JAT-u, gdje se zaposlila. RadeÊi na prekooceanskim letovima, imala je priliku i upoznati fascinantne razliËitosti kultura, ljudi i prirode, te njihove interaktivne povezanosti. To joj je zacijelo bio poticaj za daljnje uËenje i istraæivanje. Osim kontinuiranoga struËnog usavrπavanja za potrebe svog zanimanja u zrakoplovstvu, u slobodno vrijeme pohaala je i teËajeve, seminare, radionice kao i viπegodiπnje sustavne edukacije iz podruËja zrakoplovne medicine i prve pomoÊi, NLP-a i NLPt-a, πto joj je, zahvaljujuÊi vrhunskoj trenerici Tini 142

Kothari-Stacy, preokrenulo æivot i usmjerilo je obrazovanju iz podruËja psihokibernetike, upravljanja ljudskim potencijalima, poslovnog trenerstva i drugih interdisciplinarnih podruËja, koja joj danas uvelike koriste u svakodnevnom æivotu i radu. Sada je na doktorskom studiju iz podruËja obrazovanja na Filozofskom fakultetu u Zagrebu. Na svome radnome mjestu u kabini zrakoplova prioritet joj je stvoriti ugodnu atmosferu timskog rada, a pri komunikaciji s putnicima rado primjenjuje svoja specifi Ëna znanja. Svaki joj je putnik, kaæe, osobit i dragi gost, a s veseljem ispraÊa putnika koji se tijekom leta oslobodio straha od letenje. To joj je specijalnost i s velikom paænjom pristupa putnicima koji se boje letenja. »esto je pitaju zaπto joπ leti, unatoË ostalim zanimanjima, znanjima i sposobnostima, a ona u πali, ali s ponosom i osmijehom, odgovara: − Kad ti letenje ue u krv, vrijedi uzreËica: jednom stjuardesa - uvijek stjuardesa! Blaæenka uæiva u svom dugogodiπnjem zanimanju. Æeli dati joπ viπe i u drugim podruËjima jer smatra da je Ëovjek bogat onoliko koliko ima dati i podijeliti sa svim dobrim ljudima svijeta. − Na ovome smo svijetu ∑ kaæe nam ∑ jedni zbog drugih, a ne samo zbog sebe i svog samoostvarenja i moja je misao vodilja u æivotu djelovati i uËiniti sve πto je u mojoj moÊi da ovaj naπ svijet bude bolje mjesto za æivot ∑ kaæe Blaæenka. Svoja znanja rado prenosi svima koji su otvoreni za promjene i prihvaÊanje suvremenih naËina osobnoga, struËnoga i poslovnog usavrπavanja. − Kad Ëovjek oslobodi svoj unutarnji potencijal i dopusti si dozu lucidnosti u kreativnosti, tada mu ni nebo nije granica − zakljuËuje naπa kolegica Blaæenka. ■ Blaženka, the Versatile

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ur versatile colleague Blaæenka Poljak joined Croatia Airlines in 1991 as flight attendant. Today she is a purser and a trainer and instructor in our Education Centre. At various specialised courses, she conveys her experiences, knowledge and skills to other employees with a lot enthusiasm. That was why we decided to talk with her. Our colleague graduated from the High School of Nursing and from the Department of Pedagogy, The Faculty of Philosophy. Having often cast her eyes at the sky while working in healthcare for a number of years, she finally took the plunge and made her

dream to fly come true. She completed a training course for JAT flight attendants and landed a job with that company. Working on long-range flights, she had plenty of opportunities to come across and get to know the fascinating variety of cultures, people and nature, as well as their interactive connection. This was certainly a strong impetus for her to continue her education and research. Besides pursuing continuous professional education specific for her job in the aviation industry, in her free time she has also attended courses, seminars, workshops as well as programmes spread over several years in the areas of Aviation medicine and first aid, NLP and NLPt. Her superb coach, Tina Kothari-Stacy, changed her life and shifted her interest towards education in the area of Psycho cybernetics, Human Resaurce Management, Management Training and Business Coach and other interdisci plinary areas. She is able to actively use that knowledge in her everyday life and work. She is currently pursuing her doctoral degree in education at the Faculty of Philosophy (Ph.D.). When she is at her workplace, in an aircraft cabin, her priority is to create a pleasant teamwork atmosphere. When communicating with the passengers, she gladly puts all her specific knowledge to use. She says that every passenger is a special and dear guest. Her biggest reward is to see that a passenger was able to shun their fear of fl ying while onboard. This is her particular forte and she approaches passengers that have a fear of flying with special attention. She is often asked why she still flies, despite all of her degrees, knowledge and capabilities. She replies jokingly, but with pride in her voice and a smile on her lips: Once the flying bug bites, you must accept that once a flight attendant − always a flight attendant! Blaæenka enjoys her job, which she has been doing for a number of years now. She wants to give as much as possible in her other areas of interest because she believes that a person’s wealth is measured by what they are willing to give away and share with all the good people of this world. She says: − We are in this world to be there for each other, not only for ourselves and our own selfrealization. My guiding thought in life is to do and accomplish everything in my power to make this world of ours a better place to live in. When you unleash your internal potential, and when you allow yourself a dose of lucidity and creativity, even the sky stops being the limit. ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

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VALENTINO, TOM FORD, PROENZA SCHOULER, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAรA, HAGA PARIS, 6$,17 /$85(17 3$5,6 *,9(1&+< %$/0$,1 0$,621 0$57,1 0$5*,(/$ 5,&. 2:(16 &ะด/,1( STELLA MCCARTNEY, BURBERRY PRORSUM, MARNI, ALEXANDER WANG, OLYMPIA LE TAN, FALIERO SARTI, ACNE, VIONNET, MAISON MICHEL, TOM BINNS, ERICKSON BEAMON, NATALIA BRILLI, CARMINA CAMPUS, NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, GIANVITO ROSSI, NOIS, BURAK UYAN POUR MARIA, LINDA FARROW LUXE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 2XWOHW'XEURYQLN&YLMHWH=X]RULรพ2XWOHW=DJUHE&HQWDU.DSWRO1RYD9HV www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 143

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Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-Mail-adresa (Molimo vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

+

+

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt–Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati slijedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobno podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More online newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufhansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 062 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.


Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Booking class

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.


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Miles & More

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent flyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagrad ne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and flight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad

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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

n Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club benefits, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju kreditnu karticu VISA Croatia Airlines! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu milju Miles & More, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatra æite svoju kreditnu kar ticu Croatia Airlines American Express! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales offices and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

n

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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an accompanying per son on fl ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bag ga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 2 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 2 more for every status retention - Additional benefits offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can find more at: www.miles-and-more.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

150

Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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We make our members feel like VIPs wherever they are in the world. With my Gold Status I feel like one too, from being the first to check in, to being the first to take my seat on the plane. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

Fiona Foxon â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Global Brand Ambassador to the Quintessentially Group, and Star Alliance Gold Status.

staralliance.com

Discover the Gold Status feeling

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FLEET

FLOTA

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

76

2

2

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA USA CHARLOTTE NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

POZNAN

KASSEL

Chisinau LYON

Turin

Porto

VENICE

Genoa Madrid

Rijeka

Osijek BELGRADE Bucharest

BraË BARCELONA

Bari

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

TEL AVIV ■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES

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156

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ZAGREB AIRPORT

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

1

P

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

D

C

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

N

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the flight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici!

Lidija MiπÊin

Poslije duge zime pred nama su sve dulji sunËani dani koji nas potiËu na istraæivanje fotoaparatom. MoguÊnosti su bezbrojne, a na vama je da se odluËite za one za koje mislite da su najbolje. Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπemu nagradnom natjeËaju. Glavna su nagrada dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odrediπte po vaπem izboru i poklon-paketi. Autoricu fotografije Jelenu Bakotin GlaviniÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Lidiju MiπÊin i Marinu Kuten. Pozivamo vas da i dalje sudjelujete u naπemu nagradnom natjeËaju i osvojite jednu od nagrada. Pošaljite nam svoje fotografije na contest@ croatiaairlines.hr. Više informacija na www.croatiaairlines.hr.

Putovanja nas ne vode samo u nove i nepoznate krajeve, nego i u bajkovite predjele popust onih iz naπe maπte. Travelling takes us not only to new and unknown places, but also to fairy-tale ones like those in our imagination.

Dear passengers,

Davor IvankoviÊ

After a long winter, increasingly longer sunny days are ahead of us, encouraging us to explore the world with a camera. The possibilities are endless, and it is up to you to select those which you find best. Send us your photographs together with a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in our photo contest. We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Jelena Bakotin GlaviniÊ as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return flight tickets. Lidija MiπÊin and Marina Kuten have won our promotional packages. We would like to invite you to continue participating in our photo contest, which can bring you a valuable award. Send us your photos to contest@croatiaairlines.hr. More information at www.croatiaairlines. com.

Putovanja su moj æivot. Travelling is my life.

Josip Bota

»ak i nakon prekrasnog dana punog razgledanja, zvukova i okusa, nailazim na neki novi kutak i otkrivam joπ neπto divno poput ovih hirovitih kiπobrana. Even after a wonderful day full of beautiful sights, sounds and tastes, I turn yet another corner and discover more magic like this whimsical display of umbrellas.

Volim letjeti prema novim svjetovima. I like flying towards new worlds.

158

Elizabeth Grebler

Issa BratinËeviÊ

Putovanja mi omoguÊavaju da doæivim svijet kroz tue oËi. Travelling enables me to experience the world through the eyes of others.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Volim putovati jer uvijek je lijepo vratiti se kuÊi. I like travelling because returning home is always nice.

Marina Kuten

Ivica Bago

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Za mene putovanje znaËi pronalaæenje i otkrivanje sebe. Nisu svi koji lutaju izgubljeni. For me, travelling means finding and discovering yourself. Not all who wander are lost.

Silvana PuπiÊ

Jelena Bakotin GlaviniÊ - Prva nagrada/First prize

Déjà vu djeteta u meni, u potrazi za otkrivanjem blaga xy nepoznanica, zbog kojih je æivot mudriji, veseliji i odraslo jednostavan. The déjà vu of the child in me.... searching for unknown treasures which make life wiser, happier and growing up simpler.

Zbog putovanja naπe je postojanje neopisivo lako, naπ æivot nezaboravan... niz kratkih susreta stvara neizbrisiv otisak u naπoj duπi i iz dubine oslobaa nezaboravljene iskonske æivotne vrijednosti. Travelling makes our existence incredibly easy and our lives memorable.... Brief encounters are permanently imprinted on our souls and release deeply-rooted yet unforgotten values of life.

Monika »izmek

Darja ©odec ©imiËeviÊ

Ivana ©imunoviÊ

Samo hodaj nepoznatim kutcima i ulicama, nikada ne znaπ koja te zanimljiva i predivna stvar oËekuje. One should simply walk along unknown streets and corners because you never know which interesting and wonderful thing awaits you.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ADDRESSES

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za pozive iz mobilne mreže Hrvatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing Gatwick Airport Rooms 330/331A West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o. Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel****

Where Business is Pleasure · Close to historic and natural landmarks · Largest conference hall in Dubrovnik - 1200 delegates · Multipurpose business centre with 7 meeting rooms, 1.000 m2 of modular exhibition area · 385 ultra-modern rooms and 16 suites · Short walking distance to other Valamar hotels

OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND

T +385 20 448 228 F +385 20 448 444 E mice@valamar.com www.valamar.com/meetings-events

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Inflight Magazine CROATIA - spring 2013  

Inflight Magazine CROATIA - spring 2013

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