Inflight magazine winter 2013 2014 by Croatia Airlines

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

Z I M A ZIMA

VA©

VLASTITI

I N F L I G H T

W I N T E R

PRIMJERAK

M A G A Z I N E

2 0 1 3 / 2 0 1 4 n

YOUR

PERSONAL

COPY

WINTER 2013/2014

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Raduje nas πto ste odabrali naπ zrakoplov za vaπe putovanje. Na tome vam joπ jedanput najsrdaËnije zahvaljujemo. Na kraju smo joπ jedne kalendarske godine, koja je bila vrlo zahtjevna, ali u kojoj smo unatoË tomu zabiljeæili kvalitetne poslovne rezultate. U prosincu 2013. godine struËnjaci tehniËkog srediπta Croatia Airlinesa, prvi u ovom dijelu Europe, uspjeπno su zavrπili najveÊi servisni pregled zrakoplova, poznatiji kao D-check, obavljen na zrakoplovu Airbus 320 inozemnog naruËitelja. Osim tog pregleda, u naπemu tehniËkom srediπtu tijekom 2013. godine obavljeno je i 12 C-pregleda te 19 A-pregleda na zrakoplovima inozemnih aviokompanija. Naš tehniËki centar tako se potvrdio kao visokokvalitetno proﬁtno središte. U sloæenim træiπnim i gospodarskim okolnostima u prvih deset mjeseci 2013. godine naπa kompanija ostvarila je operativnu dobit, kao i krajnju neto dobit,. a taj podatak najbolje pokazuje kako se provoenje programa restrukturiranja, koji dosljedno provodimo, pokazalo opravdanim. Zbog vas, cijenjeni putnici, stalno nastojimo podiÊi i kvalitetu usluge na naπim letovima. Zbog usklaivanja s carinskim pravilima Europske unije kompanija je prestala s prodajom duty free proizvoda na redovitim meunarodnim i charter letovima iz Hrvatske u dræave Ëlanice EU-a, i obratno. U æelji da se prodaja atraktivnih proizvoda ipak nastavi dogovorena je poslovna suradnja s jednom hrvatskom tvrtkom, u sklopu koje Êe se putnicima na naπim letovima u dræave Europske unije i unutar Hrvatske nuditi usluga Sky Shop, a na letovima u odrediπta izvan Europske unije i dalje Êe se nuditi duty free proizvodi. A, dok letite, i ovaj put predlaæemo da prelistate naπ putni Ëasopis. I u ovome blagdanskom broju priredili smo za vas zanimljive teme koje Êe vam pribliæiti hrvatsku kulturu, baπtinu, tradiciju i prirodne ljepote. Iskreno se nadam da Êe vam boravak u naπem zrakoplovu, kao i u naπoj zemlji, proteÊi ugodno. Vama i vaπima najmilijima æelim radosne boæiÊne i novogodiπnje blagdane te mnogo lijepih trenutaka u 2014. godini. Hvala vam πto letite Croatia Airlinesom.

Dear passengers, We are very happy that you have chosen our airline for your travel and we wish to thank you once again for your custom. We have reached the end of yet another year, which was very demanding, but nevertheless we recorded good business results. In December 2013, our experts in the Croatia Airlines Technical Centre, the ﬁrst one in this part of Europe, successfully completed the most comprehensive aircraft maintenance check, better known as D-check, which was performed on an Airbus 320 of a foreign client. Besides that check, in the course of 2013,

D. FabijaniÊ

D. FabijaniÊ, UmjetniËki paviljon, Zagreb

Poπtovani putnici!

the maintenance team in our Technical Centre performed 12 C-checks and 19 A-checks of foreign airline aircrafts. Our Technical Centre has thus cemented its reputation as a ligh quality profit centre. Despite the market and economic complexities, in the first ten months of the year 2013 our company recorded an operating profit as well as a final net profit, which clearly justifies the restructuring program that we have been consistently implementing. It is you, our dear passengers, who motivate us in our efforts to keep on improving the level and quality of our in-flight service. Due to the harmonisation with the customs regulations of the European Union, our company has stopped selling duty free goods on international and charter flights from Croatia to other European Union member states and vice versa. We still want to continue selling attractive products on our aircraft. Business cooperation has recently been agreed with a Croatian company which will enable us to offer the Sky Shop service on our flights to the European Union member states as well as on domestic flights, while we will continue offering duty free products on flights to destinations outside the European Union. We are sure that leafing through our in-flight magazine will be a pleasant pastime during your flight. In this holiday issue you will find interesting topics on Croatian culture, heritage, tradition and beauties of nature. I sincerely hope that your flight, as well as your stay in our country, will be pleasant indeed. I take this opportunity to wish you and your dearest ones a very merry Christmas. May the New Year 2014 bring you many pleasant and memorable moments. Thank you for flying Croatia Airlines.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Krešimir KuËko President & CEO

■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Ivica KosteliÊ

MOJA JE OBITELJ STUP NA KOJEM STOJIM Razgovarali smo s jednim od najsvestranijih, ako ne i najsvestranijim, skijaπom danaπnjice, kojega s pravom i oni koji ga vole i oni koju mu za utrka gledaju u lea zovu Profesorom. 16 Umjetnost

UMJETNI»KI PAVILJON SJAJI PUNIM SJAJEM Jedan od najljepπih likovnih objekata u Europi nalazi se baπ u hrvatskoj metropoli. UmjetniËki paviljon, nakon sedam godina obnove, sjaji punim sjajem. 28 Istra

MOTOVUN, BAJKOVITA DOMOVINA MALVAZIJE I TARTUFA UvuËena u unutraπnjost Istre, mjesta poput Motovuna sve viπe privlaËe probirljive posjetitelje Istre, koji ovdje traæe raznolike uæitke i sadræaje cijele godine. 54 Arhitektura

IDEALNA KUΔA ZA ODMOR Nalazi se u Æminju, mjestaπcu u srediπtu Istre, koje oduπevljava predivnom prirodom i tako æeljenom mirnoÊom i tiπinom. 64 Podmorje

CRVENO ZLATO SREDOZEMLJA Kvalitetom, ljepotom i bojom jadranski koralji svjetski su cijenjeni, a priËa o crvenom zlatu priËa je i o jednome malom otoku blizu ©ibenika. 74 Tradicija

GRKOKATOLICI, JEDINSTVO U RAZLI»ITOSTI Izmeu rimokatolika i grkokatolika vlada velika sloga i poπtivanje. Grkokatolici æele biti most izmeu katolika. 86 Baština

FENIKS NA POLJU TIŠINE Dvorac Eltz u Vukovaru dostojno iskazuje svoju misliju odvaænosti u kojoj je iz pepela ponovno roen. U tom uzletu æivotnosti saËuvao je izvornost i svjedoËanstvo vlastitog nadahnuÊa. 98 Moda

EKSPLOZIJA KREATIVNOSTI, BOJA I MOTIVA Juraj Zigman jedan je od osobitih dizajnera na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni kojemu se smijeπi lijepa i πarena buduÊnost. 106 Meridijani

KAKVE VEZE IMA BANGKOK S VENECIJOM? Po Ëemu je Bangkok osobit? Moæda je bolje pitanje po Ëemu nije. Svaka ulica, svaka Ëetvrt, svaki stol nudi svoju priËu... 124 Izložbe

VIŠEGLASIJE, CVIJET U PRVOM LICU Izloæba Viπeglasje Saπe ©ekoranje u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt uËi nas da je ljepota u prirodi, u mirisu zemlje, pjevu ptica, u pulsirajuÊem æivotu… 134 Poznati u zrakoplovu

KAD LETIMO S VAMA, POBJEÐUJEMO! Hokejaπi KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, sportaπi su od glave do pete i majstori zbog kojih se za hokejaπke utakmice traæi karta viπe 2

CROATIA AIRLINES

Zima/Winter 2013/2014

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Ivica KosteliÊ

MY FAMILY IS MY ROCK We have talked to one of the most universal, if not the most universal skier of today. Those who love him, as well as those who look at his back during a race, rightly refer to him as Professor. 16 Art

ART PAVILION ONCE AGAIN SHONE IN FULL SPLENDOUR After a restoration project, which lasted seven years, the Art Pavilion once again shines in full splendour. 28 Istria

MOTOVUN, THE FAIRYTALE HOME OF MALVAZIJA AND TRUFFLES Inconspicuously sheltered in continental Istria, places like Motovun are becoming real meccas for the most discerning visitors of Istria who come throughout the year in pursuit of various pleasures and interests. 54 Architecture

THE IDEAL VACATION HOME This vacation home is located in Æminj, a small town in the heart of Istria, and it attracts with its beautiful nature and much desired serenity and tranquillity. 64 Undersea world

THE RED GOLD OF THE MEDITERRANEAN Adriatic coral is famed all over the world for its quality, beauty and colour. The story of the red coral is the story of a small island near ©ibenik. 74 Tradition

CROATIAN GREEK CATHOLICH CHURCH, UNITY IN DIVERSITY There is an exceptional accord and respect for each other among the Roman Catolics and GreekCathoics. The GreekCathoics wish to be ﬁrst and foremost a bridge between Catholics. 86 Heritage

PHOENIX IN A FIELD OF SILENCE Eltz Manor in Vukovar bears digniﬁed testimony to the mission it has courageously accomplished when it was reborn from the ashes. During its ascent to vitality it has preserved the originality and proof of its own inspiration. 98 Fashion

AN EXPLOSION OF CREATIVITY, COLOURS AND PATTERNS Juraj Zigman is one of those special designers on the Croatian fashion scene who is destined for a bright and colourful future. 106 Meridiens

WHAT DOES BANGKOK HAVE TO DO WITH VENICE? What makes Bangkok so special? Or better yet: what does not? Every street, every neighbourhood, every table has a story to tell... 124 Exhibitons

POLYPHONY, THE FLOWER ∑ SPEAKING IN THE FIRST PERSON The exhibition Polyphony by Saπa ©ekoranja in Zagreb’s Arts and Crafts Museum teaches us that beauty is all around us: in nature, in the smell of the earth, in the birds’ song, in the pulsating life... 134 Celebrities in our aircraft

WHEN WE FLY WITH YOU, WE WIN! The hockey players of KHL MedveπËak Zagreb are athletes from head to toe and masters of hockey whose games are always sold out. 4

CROATIA AIRLINES

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

D. FabijaniÊ

■ RAZGOVOR IVICA KOSTELIΔ

MOJA JE OBITELJ

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Mate DeviÊ

Studio Hrg

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW IVICA KOSTELIΔ ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

Dovoljno je reÊi ∑ Ivica KosteliÊ! Najbolji hrvatski skijaπ svih vremena, jedan od najboljih svjetskih skijaπa, svjetski prvak, ukupni pobjednik Svjetskog kupa, slalomaπ minuciozne tehnike i neodoljive proﬁnjenosti, ali i jedan od najsvestranijih, ako ne i najsvestraniji skijaπ danaπnjice, onaj kojega s pravom i oni koji ga vole i oni koji mu za utrka gledaju u lea, zovu Profesorom. The name speaks for itself: Ivica KosteliÊ! The best Croatian skier of all time, one of the best skiers in the world, a world champion, an overall World Cup winner, a slalom skier with a precise technique and irresistible reﬁnement, and also one of the most universal, if not indeed the most universal skiers of today, the one everybody rightly refers to as professor, those who love him as well as those who look at his back during a race. 8

CROATIA AIRLINES

vica KosteliÊ gazi stazama kojima je gazila i ponajbolja svjetska skijaπica, njegova sestra Janica KosteliÊ, oboje voeni trenerskim genijem njihova oce Ante KosteliÊa. A put ovu sezonu vodi i do SoËija i Zimskih olimpijskih igara. U prebogatoj kolekciji medalja ima mjesta za joπ koje odliËje, zaπto ne i za olimpijsko zlato, jedino koje nedostaje u karijeri toga osobitog sportaπa i Ëovjeka. ■ Razgovaramo usred vaπih priprema za novu skijaπku sezonu. Dok se ostatak zemlje tek privikava na jesen, Vi ste odavna na zimi, ledenjacima, skijama. O ovom pripremnom razdoblju uvelike ovisi sav Vaπ uspjeh. No, obiËan puk, pa Ëak i navijaËi o njemu ne znaju mnogo. Koliko su pripreme vaæne? Jesu li spartanske, ili su joπ i sad prije svega uæitak i izazov za vrhunskog sportaπa kakav nesumnjivo jeste? ∑ Jesenske su pripreme jednako vaæne koliko i one ljetne i proljetne. Svake pripreme praktiËki poËinju odmah poslije okonËanja natjecateljske sezone u oæujku ili travnju i, uz jednu stanku u trajanju od tri tjedna u lipnju, traju sve do prvih utrka u listopadu i studenom. Doduπe, u ljetnim mjesecima skijanje je svedeno na minimum, a teæiπte je na kondicijskim treninzima. Treninzi veÊ po svojoj prirodi uglavnom nisu neπto što bi se moglo nazvati uæitak, ali opet oni to jesu ∑ oni su privilegij jer alpsko skijanje je prekrasan sport koji gotovo uvijek razumijeva boravak u prekrasnom prirodnom okoliπu. Spartanski postaju tek kada nam ledenjaci otkriju i drugo, ruænije lice...magla, vjetar, snijeg, kiπa, hladnoÊa. U takvim su uvjetima volja i snaga uvijek na kuπnji. ■ Negdje sam proËitao kako ste u treningu nekih 300 dana godiπnje, dnevno Ëetiri do πest sati, uz ﬁziËki trening joπ koji sat viπe. ZvuËi pomalo zastraπujuÊe, obeshrabrujuÊe, ako ste mlad skijaπ æeljan uspjeha? U kojemu ste trenu shvatili da je skijanje Vaπ æivot, da ste Ëovjek πampionskog mentaliteta, onaj kojemu motivacija nisu ni slava ni novac, nego biti najbolji? ∑ U razvoju skijaπa postoje faze, a one ranije faze uglavnom ne bi smjele biti tako teπke da bi obeshrabrile mladog skijaπa, osobito zato što se u djetinjstvu sportaπ mora razvijati na viπe podruËja, ukljuËujuÊi πkolovanje. Ja se u mladim danima nisam skijao tako kako treniram danas, tada je to bilo viπe kao igra. U tome je uloga trenera/odgojitelja vrlo vaæna, a njegov najveÊi uspjeh jest ako trening moæe predstaviti djetetu kao igru i tako iskoristiti golem djetetov potencijal koji leæi u relativno velikoj ﬁziËkoj izdræljivosti u odnosu na malu masu njegovog tijela. Pogledajte djecu kako su neumorna kada se igraju! Usmjeravanje te energije u sport i

gibanje opÊenito jedna je od kljuËnih stvari u razvoju kasnijeg vrhunskog sportaπa. Svia mi se kako ste ovo rekli ∑ glavna motivacija nisu ni slava niti novac, nego biti najbolji. Ja bih dodao joπ ovo: glavna motivacija je ljubav prema tome Ëime se bavite. ©to prije to otkrijete, to bolje za vas. ■ Je li vrhunski sport ipak odricanje, ili prije svega povlastica? ∑ Ne volim rijeË odricanje jer odricati se neËega nije ugodno iskustvo. Zapravo, kako je jednom rekao Maupassant, niπta u æivotu nije ni sasvim negativno, niti sasvim pozitivno. Ako za svako takozvano odricanje dobivate veÊi uæitak ∑ πto to znaËi? Kao desetogodišnjak moæda nisam imao idiliËni πkolski æivot, nisam bio glavna faca u πkoli, ali mogao sam juriti 100 kilometara na sat na svojim nogama i uæivati na naËine kakve si moji πkolski kolege nisu mogli zamisliti! Zato je odgovor na Vaπe pitanje: vrhunski sport uvijek je povlastica. ■ PriËe o odricanju cijele Vaπe obitelji, spartanskim treninzima Vaπe sestre Janice i Vas pod mudrim vodstvom Vaπeg oca, maloj podrumskoj garsonijeri, spavanju u kamp kuÊici, πpeku i Ëeπnjaku veÊ su legendarne. Moje je miπljenje da velike sportske priËe, a priËa obitelji KosteliÊ i Vas samih uistinu je velika, i moraju biti takve, primjer nepatvorenoga sportskoga i æivotnog duha, snage, volje i ljubavi. No, puk Ëesto sumnja u sve πto izlazi izvan zadanih πpranci. Kako se s tim nosite, s time što ste konstantno pod poveÊalom javnosti, poglavito naπe hrvatske, posloviËno sumnjiËave prema uspjehu. ∑ Mnogo je toga nadodano u priËi o nama, kako to i inaËe biva... Ne brinem se previπe o tome πto ljudi misle. Stalo mi je do miπljenja moje neposredne okoline, rado posluπam svakoga tko mi ima neπto konstruktivno reÊi. Zlih ljudi treba se kloniti ako je to moguÊe, a onima koji ti æele dobro, ljudski je uzvraÊati dobrim. Moji navijaËi svakom svojom poticajnom porukom ili gestom ulijevaju veliku energiju u mene. ■ Pred Vama je naporna sezona, joπ jedna od koje se od Vas oËekuje mnogo bez obzira na godine, bez obzira na nebrojene ozljede i operacije koljena. Pretpostavljam kako je sve podreeno Zimskim olimpijskim igrama u SoËiju. Kakve su æelje, planovi, oËekivanje i od sezone i od ZOI? ∑ Zimske olimpijske igre nesumnjivo su najvaæniji dogaaj u ovoj sezoni. Ali, one traju samo dva tjedna, a Svjetski kup traje pet mjeseci i bilo bi nepravedno reÊi da je sve podreeno Olimpijskim igrama. Joπ nisam osvojio zlatnu olimpijsku medalju, i to je moj glavni cilj. U Svjetskom kupu æelim ostati u borbi za vrh.

novi KosteliÊi? Moæe li skijanje, osim na Sljemenu, osvojiti i Bjelolasicu, Platak? ∑ Imamo nekoliko vrlo perspektivnih mladih skijaπa, no put prema vrhu u skijanju vrlo je nesiguran. Nadam se da Êe se netko od njih probiti. A πto se savjeta tiËe ∑ ne postoji jedan jedini savjet koji bih mogao dati. Moæda bi se ponajviπe trebalo oboruæati znanjem, ljubavlju i strpljenjem. Hrvatska ima mnogo veÊe moguÊnosti za razvoj skijaliπta nego πto ih danas iskoriπtava. ■ Privatno se, zapravo, o Vama malo zna i kad se mnogo piπe. Dojam je da ste renesansni Ëovjek. Jer, tu je, uza skijanje, i æelja da se posve stopite s prirodom, gitara i blues, povijest koju studirate i s kojom Êete se u buduÊnosti moæda posve ozbiljno baviti. PaËe, crtate i karikature!? ∑ Otac mi kaæe da me je pokuπao odgajati kao srednjovjekovnog viteza. Prema tome koliko interesa imam, mogu reÊi da je barem dijelom uspio, ha, ha. To doduπe katkad nije najbolje za uæu specijalizaciju, ali poznavanje mnogih stvari generalno mi se Ëini kao bolja opcija za

u Mljet duhovito rekao: Na Mljet moæete doÊi samo ako ste zaljubljeni, umjetnik ili ste ludi! Sigurno ima Ëarobnu privlaËnost jednom kada je osjetite. Mljetska jezera ono su πto si osobno zamiπljam kao raj. ■ Je li Vaπ æivotni uzor joπ i sad Forest Gump? Ako je tako, zaπto? ∑ Hahaha, Forest Gump je skupio mnogo iskustava u æivotu, sudjelovao u vaænim povijesnim dogaajima, ali ostao je svoj. To je lijepo. ■ 34 su vam godine. Namjeravate li i dalje skijati godinu dana nakon ZOI u SoËiju, a onda prestati? Ili Êete, kako ste takoer jednom prilikom kazali, skijati dokle se god bude moglo? ©to kanite Ëiniti nakon πto okonËate karijeru? Kanite li se baviti povijeπÊu? Je li to moæda i najstresniji trenutak u æivotu nekoga vrhunskog sportaπa, prestanak karijere u ranim godinama æivota? ∑ Æelio bih skijati joπ jednu sezonu nakon OI u SoËiju. Joπ ne znam πto Êu raditi kada okonËam karijeru, ali zacijelo Êu se posvetiti interesima za koje nisam imao dovoljno vreme-

razvoj liËnosti jer za sobom, izmeu ostaloga, povlaËi i mnogo bolju moguÊnost prosuivanja, a to je priliËno zanemarena vrijednost u dobu konzumerizma u kojem danas æivimo. Izmeu ostaloga, crtam i satiristiËke karikature, uglavnom politiËke i opÊe druπtvene tematike. ■ Koja je to tajna privlaËnosti otoka Mljeta, otoka na kojemu Êete, kako ste onomad izjavili, provesti barem godinu dana nakon πto objesite skije o klin? ∑ Mljet je sasvim osobit otok izmeu svih otoka na Jadranu. Nema gradskog naselja, to je divlji otok, tako gusto poπumljen da se neki dijelovi Ëine kao terra incognita, kamo ljudi ne dolaze veÊ desetljeÊima. Jednom mi je neki zaljubljenik

na tijekom karijere. Povijest je jedna od opcija. Mislim da je to sigurno vrlo stresan trenutak, osobito ako ste Ëitav svoj dotadašnji æivot potpuno posvetili neËemu. ■ Uæivate li joπ u skijanju? Osvrnete li se ikad unatrag pa se pitate ∑ je li vrijedilo? ∑ U skijanju sada uæivam joπ viπe nego prije jer preko mnogo ozljeda i rehabilitacije nauËio sam joπ viπe cijeniti vrijeme provedeno na snijegu. Katkad mi je teπko kada me boli koljeno i prirodno je da se Ëovjek pita je li mogao neπto uËiniti da se to sprijeËi ili smanji, ali ja volim svoj put i prigrlio sam ga iz sveg srca. ■ VeÊi ste dio godine na putu, u avionu, automobilu. Gdje je dom Ivice KosteliÊa?

Studio Hrg

■ Slalom je Vaπa disciplina. Slalom je plemenita disciplina, ona u kojoj se sljubljuje sve; i snaga, i um, i vjeπtina. Moæe li se uopÊe tu biti bolji, ili se savrπena utrka joπ Ëeka? ∑ Postoje trenuci kada dodirujete savrπenstvo. Takvi su trenuci rijetki, ja sam ih imao samo nekoliko u cijeloj karijeri. Mnogo se stvari treba poklopiti; tada um i tijelo savrπeno surauju na osobito visokoj razini. Vjerujem da je moguÊe odvoziti savrπenu utrku, ali πanse su jedan naprama milijun. Ali, savrπenstvu se može pribliæiti, katkad blizu. ■ Kad veÊ spominjemo skijaπke velesile, zemlje koje ulaæu golem novac u skijanje a gledaju Vam u lea, koliko Vas motivira skijanje u kockastom kombinezonu? Niste, zapravo, nikada ni krili da je Hrvatska vaπ veliki motiv. ∑ Po mojemu miπljenju, najveÊa snaga sporta leæi u težnji prema idealu da su svi ljudi jednaki. Sport, posebice olimpizam, nastoji upozoriti na to, što je bit njihove krilatice celebrate humanity. Premda u Hrvatskoj nema snijega ni novca, uspjeli smo pobijediti sve naπe konkurente koji dolaze iz zemalja u kojima ima mnogo i snijega i novca. Hrvatska je u globalnim okvirima mala zemlja i po mnogim kriterijima teπko se ili nikako moæemo nositi s najveÊima. U drugim segmentima ljudske aktivnosti, kao što su ekonomija, bankarstvo, trgovina i drugo, male zemlje teπko isplivavaju na povrπinu, i to katkad ne zbog svojih moguÊnosti, nego i zato što te aktivnosti nemaju istinski kodeks, a on u sportu postoji. Taj kodeks, pravila utvrena za sve podjednako, daju sportaπima iz malih zemalja moguÊnost aﬁrmacije i nadoknade ﬁnancijskih i drugih nedostataka. Kada sportaπ iz male zemlje na postolju stoji iznad sportaπa neke svjetske velesile, u tome ima neËega neodoljivo ljudskoga, neËega što daje nadu u neke ideale. ■ No, kako je zdravlje, kako je koljeno, ono Ëije se operacije viπe i ne broje? Je li teπko vraÊati se na opasne staze nakon bolniËkog kreveta i rehabilitacija? Ima li straha kad se ponovno doe na stazu? ∑ Poslije mnogo operacija sportaπ veÊ toËno zna što moæe oËekivati i što treba uËiniti. Moje koljeno sada je priliËno dobro i ne bih se htio æaliti jer znam da moæe biti mnogo gore. ■ Jesu li roditelji i sestra Janica i dalje najveÊa podrπka? Je li otac Ante i dalje najveÊi autoritet, a sestra moæda ponajveÊi kritiËar, dakako, onaj dobronamjerni? ∑ Na sve πto ste pitali, mogu odgovoriti potvrdno. Moja je obitelj stup na kojemu stojim. ■ Kakva je buduÊnost hrvatskog skijanja? Dolaze li mlade neke snage? I kakav je savjet za sve one koji bi æeljeli biti neki

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N. Reberšak

Odnosno, koliko se za svih ovih godina promijenilo ono Sljeme Vaπeg djetinjstva i ovo danas, Ëiji ste kralj tko god da u sljemenskoj utrci pobjeuje? ∑ Dom je ondje gdje je srce, a meni je srce u Hrvatskoj, i to podjednako u slavonskoj ravnici koliko i na Jadranu ili bilo gdje drugdje. Sljeme se malo mijenja, ali uvijek ima isti Ëar, ono πto je KranjËeviÊ saæeo u pjesmi Mir. Volio bih samo da se potpuno prestane sa sjeËom πume na Sljemenu jer to brdo najveÊe je bogatstvo Zagreba i ono πto ga izdiæe nad veÊinu drugih glavnih gradova u svijetu. Zaboli me srce kad vidim razrovane sjeËine. Struka kaæe da se na taj naËin brine za πumu, ali πuma se zacijelo zna brinuti o sebi, i to veÊ milijunima godina. ■

vica KosteliÊ follows in the footsteps of the best world female skier, his sister Janica KosteliÊ. Both had the same genius as a trainer, their father Ante KosteliÊ. This season, the road will take him to Sochi and the Winter Olympic Games. In the impressive collection of medals, there is room for a few more, and why not the Olympic gold, the only one missing in the career of this exceptional man and athlete. ■ We are talking in the middle of your preparations for the new ski season. While the rest of the country is barely getting used to autumn, you have been in winter, on glaciers and on skis for quite a while. All of your successes largely depend on this period of preparations. However, ordinary people, even your supporters themselves, do not know much about it. How important are preparations? Are they Spartan or are they still ﬁrst and foremost a source of enjoyment and a challenge for a top athlete such as you? 10

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∑ Autumn preparations are as important as summer and spring preparations. All preparations practically start as soon as the competitive season is over, in March or April, and last until the first races in October and November, with a short three-week break in July. Having said that, I have to add that in the summer months, skiing is reduced to a minimum and the focus is on condition training. It is not in the nature of training to qualify as a source of enjoyment, but, on the other hand, this is what it is: training is a privilege because Alpine skiing is a wonderful sport which always implies spending time in a beautiful natural setting. It becomes Spartan only when glaciers reveal their other, uglier side to us: fog, wind, rain, cold. In such conditions, one’s willpower and strength are always challenged. ■ I have read somewhere that you are train some 300 days a year, four to six hours a day, with a few more additional hours of physical training. This sounds a bit intimidating and discouraging for a young skier who wants to succeed. When did you realize that skiing was your life, that you were a man with a champion’s mentality, one who is motivated neither by fame nor money but the desire to be the best? ∑ There are different stages in the development of a skier and the earliest ones should not be so difficult as to discourage a young skier, especially in view of the fact that as a child an athlete has to pursue several fields of development, including education. When I was younger, I did not ski the way I do today, it was more like a game. During that period, the role of a trainer/coach is very important, and the biggest success for them is if they can present training to a child as a game and thus tap into the child’s immense potential which lies in the relatively great physical stamina in comparison with the small body mass. Look how tireless children are when they play! Channelling that energy into sport and movement in general is one of the key things in the development of a future top athlete. I liked the way you put it ∑ money and fame are not the main motif, the main motif is to be the best. I should also add this: the main motif is to love what you do. The sooner you discover what it is, the better for you. ■ Is being a top athlete all about making sacrifices, or is it primarily a privilege? ∑ I do not like the word sacrifice because to sacrifice something is never a pleasant experience. Actually, as Maupassant once said, nothing in life is either completely negative or completely positive. If you gain an even greater pleaser for every so-called sacrifice you make,

what does that mean? At the age of 10, my life at school may have not been idyllic, I was not the most popular or the best student, but I could rush down a mountain at 100 kilometres an hour on my own feet and enjoy pleasures that my peers could not even imagine! That is why the answer to your question is this: being a top athlete is always a privilege. ■ The story about your entire family making sacriﬁces, about your sister Janica’s and your Spartan trainings with your wise father as a coach, a small basement bedsit, sleeping in a trailer, bacon and garlic, all that is already the stuff of the legend. In my view, great stories about athletes, and the story about the KosteliÊ family and yourself as its member, is really great, and must be that way; they must be an example of a genuine sports and life spirit, strength, willpower and love. However, people are always mistrustful and suspicious of everything that falls out of a pattern. How do you deal with that? How do you handle the fact that you are always scrutinized by the general public, especially here in Croatia where people are proverbially suspicious of success? ∑ A lot of the story about my family has been made up, as it usually happens… I do not worry too much about what people think. I care about the opinions of the people who are close to me; I will gladly listen to anybody who has something constructive to say. Evil people should be avoided, if at all possible. As for those who wish you well, it is only human to return the favour. My supporters give me a lot of energy with every positive message or gesture. ■ A demanding season is ahead of you, yet another one in which you are expected to deliver irrespective of your age, irrespective of the numerous injuries and knee surgeries. I suppose that the Winter Olympic Games in Sochi overshadow everything else? What are your plans and expectations from the season and the Winter Olympics? What would be your wish come true? ∑ The Winter Olympic Games are undoubtedly the most important event in the season. However, they only last two weeks, whereas the World Cup lasts ﬁve months and it would not be fair to say that everything is overshadowed by the Winter Olympics. I have not won an Olympic gold medal yet, and that is my main goal. In the World Cup, I want to remain a contender for top positions. ■ Slalom is your discipline. Slalom is a noble discipline, one that combines everything: strength, mind, skill. Is there any

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room for improvement in that, can one still be better, or is the perfect run still in the offing? - There are moments when you touch upon perfection. Such moments are rare and I have had only several of them in my entire career. Many things have to fall into place for the mind and body to cooperate perfectly, at an exceptionally high level. I believe that the perfect race can be run, but the chances of that are one in a million. However, one can come close to perfection, sometimes even very close. ■ Since we have mentioned skiing super powers, countries that invest huge sums of money into skiing and yet they look at your back, how motivated are you to ski in a ski suit with a checkerboard pattern? As a matter of fact, you have never kept it a secret that Croatia is your big source of inspiration. ∑ The way I see things, the biggest strength of sports lies in the desire to achieve the ideal that all people are equal. Sports, especially Olympic sports, wish to highlight that message, which is also the underlying idea behind their slogan: celebrate humanity. Although Croatia does not have much snow or money, we have managed to beat all of our competitors who come from countries where there is a lot of snow and money. In global terms, Croatia is a small country which can hardly compete with the greatest, according to many criteria. In some other segments of human activity, such as banking, commerce and others, small countries find it difficult to stay afloat, sometimes not because of their capabilities but because such activities do not have a true code of conduct, a codex of behaviour that exists in sports. This codex, the rules that exist, are applied across the board and help athletes from small countries to affirm themselves and to compensate the lack of financing and other shortcomings. When an athlete from a small country climbs the medal stand and stands above an athlete from a sports superpower, there is something appealingly human in that, something that gives hope that some ideals can be achieved. ■ How about your health? How about your knee, the one that has undergone so many surgeries? Is it difficult to return to the dangerous ski slopes after a hospital bed and rehabilitation? Are you afraid when you find yourself on the ski slope again after that? ∑ After a large number of surgeries, an athlete knows exactly what to expect and what to do. My knee is in rather good shape now, and I do not want to complain because I know that it could be much worse. 12

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■ Are your parents and sister Janica still your biggest supporters? Is your father Ante still the biggest authority, and your sister perhaps the biggest critic, obviously, a benevolent one? ∑ I can say yes to all of those questions. My family is my rock. ■ What is the future of Croatian skiing? Is there any new blood on the horizon? And what is your advice to all the prospective KosteliÊ wannabes? Can skiing spread from Sljeme and conquer Bjelolasica and Platak? ∑ We have a few very promising young skiers, however the road to the top in skiing is very uncertain. I hope that some of them will make it. And as for advice ∑ there is not just one piece of advice that I could impart. Perhaps I could say that one should arm themselves with knowledge, love and patience. Croatia has a lot of untapped potential to develop ski slopes. ■ Very little is known about your private life, even when a lot is written about it. The impression is that you are a renaissance man. Besides skiing, there is also your desire to be one with nature, there is the guitar and blues, and you are currently studying history to perhaps make it a serious ﬁeld of professional interest in the future. Moreover, you also draw comics. ∑ My father tells me that he tried to bring me up as a medieval knight. Judging by the number of interests I have, I can say that he has at least partially succeeded in that, ha ha. At times, this may not be the best way to proceed for those who want to specialize in something, but being a Jack of all trades seems like a better option for developing your personality because it gives you better judgement, which is a rather neglected value in the era of consumerism that we currently live in. Yes, I also draw satirical comics, mostly dealing with political and general social situations. ■ What is the secret attraction of the island of Mljet, the island where you plan to spend at least a year once you hang your skis up on the wall? At least, this is what you once stated. ∑ Mljet is truly special and stands out from all of the Adriatic islands. It does not have a single urban settlement. It is a wild island, so densely forested that some parts look like a terra incognita where people have not set foot for decades. Once an aﬁcionado of Mljet made a joke about the island and said: You can come to Mljet only if you are in love, an artist or totally insane! It certainly does have a magical attraction, once you get to feel it. For me, the islands on Mljet are what I imagine paradise to look like.

■ Is Forest Gump still your role model? If he is, why? ∑ Hahaha, Forest Gump participated in important historical events, but he remained true to himself. This is nice. ■ You are 34. Do you intend to go on skiing a year after the Olympic Games in Sochi and then stop? Or are you going to continue skiing for as long as you can, as you once said? What do you intend to do after the end of your skiing career? Will history be your profession? Is it perhaps the most stressful moment in the life of a top athlete, the moment when their career ends and they are still young? ∑ I would like to go on skiing for another season after the Olympic Games in Sochi. I still don’t know what I want to do after that, but I will certainly dedicate myself to the interests for which I did not have time during my career. History is one of the options. I believe that this is certainly a stressful moment, especially if your whole life until then was dedicated to just one thing. ■ Do you still enjoy skiing? Do you sometimes look back and ask yourself: Was it worth it? ∑ I enjoy skiing now even more than before because the numerous injuries and rehabilitation processes have taught me to appreciate the time I can spend on the snow. Sometimes it can be really hard when my knee hurts and it is only natural for one to ask themselves whether they could have done something to prevent it or reduce it, but I like my way and I have embraced it wholeheartedly. ■ You spend most of the year travelling, on a plane or in a car. Where is Ivica KosteliÊ’s home? Or, during all these years, how has Sljeme changed, what is the difference between the Sljeme of your childhood and today’s Sljeme where you are king irrespective of who the winner of the race is? ∑ Home is where the heart is, and my heart is in Croatia, equally so in the Slavonian plains as on the Adriatic Coast or anywhere else. Sljeme has indeed changed a little, but it still has the same charm, that thing that KranjËeviÊ summarized in his poem Peace. The only thing I would like to see happen is for the felling of the forest on Sljeme to end, because that hilltop is Zagreb’s biggest wealth, what distinguishes it from a majority of world capitals. My heart hurts when I see ravaged clearings among the trees. The profession says that this is the way to manage the forest and take care of it, but a forest certainly knows how to take care of itself, it has done so for millions of years. ■

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most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2011 census, Croatia’s population is 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice 14

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Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropsko ga kultur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2012. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su oko 11,835.000 turista, od kojih je stranih oko 10,369.000. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 62,743.000 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mno gih hrvatskih oto ka, pri jevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.8 million tourists (11,835,600 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2012, of whom around 10.4 foreign tourists. Tourists realized about 62,743,000 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lowing de no mi na ti ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

Kartografski laboratorij Križovan

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

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■ UMJETNOST ART

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Piše/By Jasminka PokleËki StoπiÊ Fotograﬁja/Photo Damir FabijaniÊ

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Jedan od najljepπih likovnih objekata u Europi nalazi se baπ u hrvatskoj metropoli. RijeË je, dakako, o UmjetniËkom paviljonu. Nakon punih sedam godina obnove, provedenih opseænih konzervatorsko-restauratorskih radova na sanaciji kompletnog objekta i temeljitoj obnovi proËelja i srediπnje kupole s kroviπtem, UmjetniËki je paviljon, prije nepunih pola godine, zasjao punim sjajem. Teπko se odluËiti je li ljepπi u eksterijeru ili interijeru. One of the most beautiful buildings is found right here in the Croatian metropolis. Of course, we are talking about the Art Pavilion! After a total of seven years of renovation, conducted with extensive conservation and restoration work on the reparation of the entire building and the extensive restoration of the facade and the central dome and roof, the Art Pavilion, less than six months ago, once again shone in full splendour. It is difﬁcult to decide which is more beautiful, the exterior or the interior! 22

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este li se ikada upitali gdje se nalazi najljepπi muzej ili galerija? Je li na nekom europskom ili svjetskom odredištu? Je li to slavni Musée du Louvre u Parizu, prekrasni Naturhistorisches Museum u BeËu, moæda Museo Nacional del Prado u Madridu ili pak arhitektonsko Ëudo Franka Gehryja Guggenheim Museum u Bilbau? Zacijelo ste bili iznenaeni kako neka æeljezniËka postaja moæe postati fascinantan muzej poput Musée d’Orsay u Parizu ili se divili dalekovidnosti Katarine Velike koja je osnovala slavni Ermitaæ u St. Petersburgu, jednu, sasvim sigurno, nezaobilaznu likovnu postaju svijeta. Mogli bismo navesti joπ mnogo prelijepih muzejsko-galerijskih zdanja, poput Muzeja islamske umjetnosti u Dohi, koji je projektirao planetarno slavni arhitekt I. M. Pei, ili Hanoi muzej u Vijetnamu, Rijksmuseum u Amsterdamu, MAS Museum u Antverpenu i joπ mnogo, mnogo drugih. Teπko se, izmeu toliko globalnih zdanja, odluËiti za najljepπe, a joπ je teæe povjerovati da navedeni, smjeπteni u megapolisima, veliku konkurenciju imaju u relativno maloj metropoli ∑ Zagrebu. Znam da Êe zvuËati nevjerojatno, ali jedan od najljepπih likovnih objekata Europe nalazi se baπ u hrvatskoj metropoli. RijeË je, dakako, o UmjetniËkom paviljonu. Nakon punih sedam godina obnove, provedenih opseænih konzervatorsko-restauratorskih radova na sanaciji kompletnog objekta i temeljitoj obnovi proËelja i srediπnje kupole s kroviπtem, UmjetniËki je paviljon, prije nepunih pola godine, zasjao punim sjajem. Teπko se odluËiti je li ljepπi u eksterijeru ili interijeru. Povijest UmjetniËkoga paviljona na neki je naËin i povijest likovne umjetnosti 20. stoljeÊa u Hrvatskoj. To je najstariji izloæbeni prostor u ovom dijelu JI Europe i jedini objekt koji je namjenski sagraen za odræavanje velikih, reprezentativnih izloæbi. Tijekom 115-godiπnjeg postojanja ovdje su se odræale gotovo sve znamenite izloæbe koje su svojim znaËenjem prelazile okvire grada Zagreba. Tu su bile prireivane izloæbe grupa, pokreta i strujanja ∑ tu su se stvarali temelji tradicije slikarske i kiparske modernosti u Hrvatskoj, ali, dakako, prezentirala i velika imena iz inozemstva. Zamisao i inicijativu za gradnju UmjetniËkoga paviljona dao je 1895. godine slikar Vlaho Bukovac, najmarkantnija liËnost likovnoga i kulturnog æivota Zagreba i Hrvatske na prijelazu 19. i 20. stoljeÊa. MoguÊnost gradnje UmjetniËkog paviljona pokazala se pripremama za Milenijsku izloæbu u Budimpeπti, Ëije se sveËano otvaranje planiralo za 2. svibnja 1896. godine. Maarska slavi sveËanost milenija ∑ tisuÊgodiπnjicu svog dræavotvornog æivota, a Hrvatska i Slavonija, politiËki i pravno povezane s Maarskom, morale su na toj izloæbi

aktivno sudjelovati. Na nagovor Bukovca, hrvatski umjetnici traæili su da se u Peπti sagradi vlastiti, montaæni umjetniËki paviljon Ëiji Êe se æeljezni kostur poslije izloæbe prenijeti u Zagreb. To je i uËinjeno, a radovi su povjereni beËkim arhitektima Hellmeru i Fellneru. UmjetniËki paviljon sveËano je otvoren 15. prosinca 1898. reprezentativnom izloæbom Hrvatski salon. Od tada do danas odræane su mnogobrojne izloæbe, πtoviπe, sustavnom izlagaËkom strategijom obuhvaÊeni su glavni opusi i najvaænija razdoblja i smjerovi hrvatske umjetnosti, kao i prezentacije velikih imena inozemne likovne scene. Rezultat toga jest dosadaπnje veliko zanimanje publike, medija i struke, a zacijelo Êe to zanimanje u godini koja predstoji, 2014., biti joπ i veÊe. Naime, za sljedeÊu godinu osmislili smo nekoliko velikih izloæbi, a poËinjemo veÊ u sijeËnju sa sjajnom izloæbom likovne ostavπtine poznate hrvatske grofovske obitelji PejaËeviÊa. Izloæba Skriveno blago europskog plemstva ∑ Likovna ostavπtina obitelji PejaËeviÊ nastala je u produkciji Galerije umjetnina Osijek, a u suradnji s UmjetniËkim paviljonom. Izloæba Êe pokazati bogato umjetniËko naslijee plemiÊke obitelji PejaËeviÊ, koja je na prostoru istoËne Hrvatske æivjela i djelovala od poËetka 18. do sredine 20. stoljeÊa, a imala je vaænu ulogu na gospodarskom, kulturnom i politiËkom planu. Na izloæbi Êe biti predstavljeno oko 150 slika, graﬁka i skulptura ∑ iz razdoblja 18. do polovine 20. stoljeÊa ∑ koje se nalaze po raznim hrvatskim muzejima, a pripadale su obitelji PejaËeviÊ. Program nastavljamo izloæbom Ivana MaruπiÊa Klifa, koju otvaramo u oæujku. Izloæba je to iz ciklusa ambijentalnih, site-speciﬁc izloæbenih projekata UmjetniËkog paviljona, koji predstavljaju nove opuse i ostvarenja suvremene umjetniËke produkcije vodeÊih umjetnika srednjega i mlaeg naraπtaja. RijeË je o multimedijalnom umjetniku i jednome od najzanimljivijih autora domaÊe novomedijske umjetniËke scene. Za travanj i svibanj predvidjeli smo retrospektivnu izloæbu slavne hrvatske slikarice Naste Rojc (1883.∑1964.) koja je ostvarila vrlo vaæna djela za razvoj moderne hrvatske umjetnosti u panorami slikarstva prvih triju desetljeÊa dvadesetoga stoljeÊa. Kuriozum jest πto smo uspjeli otkriti neke nove privatne zbirke koje posjeduju dosad neizlagana Nastina djela. Retrospektivna izloæba Naste Rojc ujedinit Êe stotinjak djela, meu kojima remek-djela poput: Autoportret ∑ JahaËica, ulje iz 1922., Autoportret ∑ Lovac, 1912., Zwei Schwestern, 1914., SimbolistiËki autoportret, 1914., Otok PrviÊ, 1935., Zima u Gudovcu, 1912., Zima, 1912. Za ljeto smo predvidjeli fotografsku poslasticu, izloæbu Nepoznata Marija Braut. Naime, naπa slavna

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fotografkinja sljedeÊe godine navrπava 85 godina te nam je to bio poticaj da se posebno za UmjetniËki paviljon osmisli izloæba što Êe pokazati do sada neviene Marijine fotograﬁje i uroniti u svijet negativa, kontakt-kopija i njezine tamne komore. Potkraj rujna 2014. otvaramo veliku izloæbu Joan Miró ∑ remekdjela iz Fondacije Maeght. Izloæba Êe trajati Ëetiri mjeseca i prvi Êe put, ne samo u Hrvatskoj nego u ovom dijelu JI Europe, predstaviti djela slavnog katalonskog umjetnika, koja se nalaze u poznatoj Fondation Maeght u SaintPaul-de-Vance. Selektirao je Ëetrdesetak radova ∑ slike (veliki formati ), skulpture (21 kom.), litograﬁje i tapiserije ∑ pri Ëemu je poseban naglasak stavljen na skulpture. Naime, Miró, koji je prije svega poznat kao slikar, bio je i izvanredan kipar. Veza Miróa i Fundacije Maeght poËela je sredinom 20. st. Miró je, naime, bio veliki prijatelj s osnivaËem Fundacije, Aimeom Maeghtom. Fundacija je veÊ dugi niz godina nezaobilazna kad je rijeË o modernoj i suvremenoj umjetnosti. Danas nije moguÊe da ijedna velika svjetska galerija ili muzej priredi izloæbu Miróa ili Matissea, Bonnarda, Caldera, Giacomettija, Braquea... bez posudbe njihovih djela iz Fundacije Maeght. Kao πto vidite, program je raznovrsan i sigurno Êe svatko pronaÊi neπto zanimljivo. No, vjerujte, UmjetniËki je paviljon fascinantan i kada je prazan, kada u njemu nema izloæbi. On je, naime, izloæak po sebi. n

ave you ever wondered where the nicest museum or gallery is located? Is it in some European or world destination? Could it be the famous Louvre Museum in Paris, the beautiful Naturhistorisches Museum in Vienna, perhaps the Museo Nacional del Prado in Madrid, or even the architectural wonder by Frank Gehry, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao? You must surely be surprised that a train station could become a fascinating museum like the Musee d’Orsay in Paris or in awe of Catherine the Great’s farsightedness with which she founded the famous Hermitage in St. Petersburg, an absolutely must-visit art destination in the world. I could go on citing many more beautiful museums and gallery buildings, such as the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, which was designed by the globally renowned architect I.M. Pei, or the Hanoi Museum in Vietnam, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, the MAS Museum in Antwerp and many, many others. It is difﬁcult, among so many global structures, to decide which is the most stunning, but it is even harder to believe that the abovementioned, which are located in large cities, have great competition in a relatively small capital ∑ Zagreb. I know

this sounds unbelievable, but one of the most beautiful buildings is found right here in the Croatian metropolis. Of course, we are talking about the Art Pavilion! After a total of seven years of renovation, conducted with extensive conservation and restoration work on the reparation of the entire building and the extensive restoration of the facade and the central dome and roof, the Art Pavilion, less than six months ago, once again shone in full splendour. It is difficult to decide which is more beautiful, the exterior or the interior! In some way, the history of the Art Pavilion is also the history of fine art in 20th century Croatia. It is the oldest exhibition area in this part of Southeast Europe and the only structure that was built specifically for accommodating great, representative exhibits. Throughout its 115 years of existence, almost all of the exhibitions whose significance transcended Zagreb’s boundaries have been held here. Groups of authors have exhibited here, movements and trends have been presented, modern Croatian painting and sculpture traditions have been created her, and all that time great names from abroad have not been neglected either. The idea and initiative to build the Art Pavilion in 1895 was the brainchild of painter Vlaho Bukovac, the most striking figure of the artistic and cultural life in Zagreb and Croatia at the turn of the 20th century. The possibility of building the Art Pavilion arose during the preparations for the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest, whose grand opening was planned for 2 May 1896. Hungary was celebrating its ceremonial millennium ∑ 1000 years since the birth of the nation. Because of their political and legal relations with Hungary, Croatia and Slavonia had to take an active part in the exhibition. At the urging of Bukovac, Croatian artists sought to build their own, prefabricated art pavilion in Pest whose iron skeleton would be transferred to Zagreb after the show. This was indeed done, and the works were entrusted to the Viennese architects Hellmer and Fellner. The Art Pavilion was officially opened on 15 December 1898 with the representative exhibit Croatian Salon. Since then, it has held numerous exhibitions, moreover, with a systematic strategy of exhibiting it has covered all the major works and the most important periods and trends in Croatian art, as well as the presentation of great international names on the art scene. So far this has resulted in great interest from the audience, media and the profession, and I am sure that the interest will be even greater in 2014. Specifically, for next year we have come up with several exceptional exhibitions, already starting in January with a great exhibition of paintings by the famous Croatian noble family

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PejaËeviÊ. The exhibition Hidden Treasures of European Aristocracy ∑ The Art Heritage of the PejaËeviÊ Family has been produced by the Gallery of Fine Arts in Osijek, in cooperation with the Art Pavilion. The exhibition will show the rich artistic heritage of the noble PejaËeviÊ family whose members lived and worked in eastern Croatia from the early 18th to the mid-20th century and played an important role on the economic, cultural and political level. The exhibition will feature approximately 150 paintings, prints and sculptures - from the 18th to the mid-20th century - which are located in various Croatian museums, and which belonged to the PejaËeviÊ family. The program will continue with an exhibition by Ivan MaruπiÊ Klif which will open in March. The exhibition is from the cycle of site-speciﬁc exhibition projects of the Art Pavilion which represent new works and achievements in contempo26

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rary art production by the leading artist of the middle-aged and younger generations. Ivan MaruπiÊ Klif is a multimedia artist and one of the most interesting authors on the domestic new media art scene. For the months of April and May we have planned a retrospective exhibition of the famous Croatian painter Nasta Rojc (1883-1964), whose works were very important for the development of modern Croatian art in a panorama painting of the first three decades of the 20th century. It is amazing that we discovered some new private collections that include Nasta’s never before seen works. The retrospective exhibition by Nasta Rojc will comprise hundreds of works, including masterpieces such as: Self Portrait ∑ Horsewoman, an oil painting from 1922, Self Portrait ∑ Hunter, 1912, Zwei Schwestern, 1914, Symbolic Self Portrait, 1914, Island PrviÊ, 1935, Winter in Gudovac, 1912 and Winter, 1912. For the summer we will offer our visitors a photographic treat, the exhibition Unknown by Marija Braut. Specifically, our famous photographer will celebrate her 85th birthday next year and this was our incentive to specifically create an exhibition for the Art Pavilion that would show Marija’s not yet seen photographs and which would plunge into the world of negatives, contact-copies and her darkroom. At the end of September 2014, a major exhibition will open titled Joan Miró ∑ Masterpieces from the Maeght Foundation. The exhibition will last four months and for the first time, not only in Croatia but in this part of Southeast Europe, it will present the works of the famous Catalonian artist that are in the famous Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paulde-Vance. Some forty works were selected paintings (large format), sculptures (21 pieces), lithographs and tapestries ∑ with a special emphasis on sculpture. Specifi cally, Miró, who was primarily known as a painter, was also an outstanding sculptor. The relationship between Miró and the Maeght Foundation began in the mid-20th century. Miró was, in fact, a great friend of the founder of the Foundation, Aimé Maeght. For many years, the Foundation has been considered a must-see when it comes to modern and contemporary art. Today it is not possible for any serious world gallery or museum to prepare an exhibition of Miró or Matisse, Bonnard, Caldera, Giacomettia, Braque... without borrowing their works from the Maeght Foundation. As you can see, the program is diverse and I am sure that everyone will find something interesting. But trust me, the Art Pavilion is fascinating even when it is empty, when there is no exhibition. It is, in fact, an exhibit all by itself! n

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■ ISTRA ISTRIA

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Piπe/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Uprete li prstom u srediπte Istre, pa ga pomaknete malo sjevernije, ne moæete promaπiti Motovun, iz kojega se sve Ëini nadomak ruke. UvuËena u mirniju unutraπnjost, a opet blizu mora, mjesta poput Motovuna sve viπe privlaËe probirljive posjetitelje Istre, koji ovdje traæe raznolike uæitke i sadræaje cijele godine. CROATIA AIRLINES

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If you point your finger at the centre of Istria, and move it just slightly northward, you cannot miss Motovun. Once you find yourself there, everything seems to be at your fingertips. Secluded in the much calmer interior of the peninsula, and yet close to the sea, places like Motovun are attracting an increasing number of the discerning visitors of Istria who come here in pursuit of various delights and experiences all year round. CROATIA AIRLINES

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uosnivaË Googlea Larry Page sletio je ovoga utorka u Zagreb privatnim avionom Boeing 767 u vlasniπtvu tvrtke Blue City Holdings iz Oklahome, a sutra treba prisustvovati svadbi svoga πurjaka u Motovunu. AmeriËki organizatori vjenËanja za svatove su unajmili sve sobe i apartmane u mjestu, a za samu proslavu zakupili gornji i donji gradski trg, toËnije Trg Andrea Antico i Trg Josipa Resela... Vijest o tom dogaaju proπloga se srpnja proπirila druπtvenim rubrikama hrvatskih medija, jer vjenËanja se svjetske elite ne dogaaju svakoga dana u malom istarskom gradiÊu kakav je Motovun. Nasaen na stoæastom brdu zaravnatog platoa ponad doline rijeke Mirne, nasuprot poznate Motovunske πume, taj srednjovjekovni gradiÊ u svojim mini gabaritima izranja iz mekanih kaskada istarskog zelenila i vinorodnih polja, a kada se ujesen nad Istru spusti magla, grad nestvarno, poput Ëardaka lebdi iznad bijelog vatiranog mora. Zbog pitome ljepote i mitova o Nazorovom dobroÊudnom divu Veli Joæi, podsjeÊa me na bajkovitu domovinu Hobita iz Gospodara prstenova, te nije Ëudno πto su taj simbol unutraπnje Istre veseli ameriËki svatovi izabrali kao najromantiËnije mjesto da izreku ono veliko da. U nedavnim vremenima, kad su se æivot i turizam uglavnom dogaali na obali, Motovun je bilo priliËno osamljeno mjesto u srcu Istarskog poluotoka, ali samo se u desetljeÊe i neπto pretvorio u grad mladih, nekonvencionalnih, intelektualno znatiæeljnih posjetitelja, osobito popularan meu studentima, koji ovamo dolaze zbog meunarodnog Motovunskog filmskog festivala. Otkako je osnovan 1999. godine, gledatelji svakoga srpnja opsjedaju grad zbog te smotre posveÊene malim kinematografijama i nezavisnim produkcijama, s jedinim kriterijem sudjelovanja da se autor inovativnoπÊu uklapa u slobodoumno ozraËje festivala. Zato ga je i dnevnik Guardian nedavno opisao kao kombinaciju britanskoga Glastonbury festivala suvremene izvedbene umjetnosti i ameriËkog festivala nezavisnog filma Sundance. BuduÊi da je u gradu samo jedan hotel i ograniËen broj (sve elegantnijih) apartmana, gledatelji dolaze s naprtnjaËama i πatorima i ulogore se podno grada, te su kampovi postali jedan od simbola toga dogaanja. Mali festival malog filma u malom gradu, kakvim ga je zamislio osnivaË Rajko GrliÊ i njegovi filmski kolege, pretvorio se u veliki dogaaj koji je ugostio i Kena Russella i Vanessu Redgrave, tijekom kojega je lutrija naÊi slobodno mjesto za vrijeme projekcija na glavnome motovunskom trgu.

UvuËena u mirniju unutraπnjost, a opet blizu mora, mjesta poput Motovuna sve viπe privlaËe probirljive posjetitelje Istre, koji ovdje traæe raznolike uæitke i sadræaje cijele godine, pa je Motovun, zbog ujednaËene klime, nekoliko puta godiπnje domaÊin natjecanjima u letu balonima, a zbog mira mjesto znanstvenih i poslovnih skupova, seminara, ljetnih πkola i radionica kao πto su Meunarodna ljetna πkola zdravlja ili Meunarodna ljetna πkola arhitekture. Uprete li prstom u srediπte Istre, pa ga pomaknete malo sjevernije, ne moæete promaπiti Motovun, iz kojega se sve Ëini nadomak ruke. S jedne strane imate dvadesetak kilometara do Buja, s druge do Buzeta, uËas stignete do grada glazbe Groænjana, do Novigrada na obali imate pola sata voænje ili moæete produæiti malo juænije do PoreËa, nedaleko su ljekovite Istarske toplice i Oprtalj, koji mnoge podsjeÊa na Motovun u malome. Gotovo pa sve moæete obiÊi u jednome danu. Ali, zaputite li se pjeπice s podnoæja brda do staroga grada na 270 metara nadmorske visine, opasanog s dva prstena zidina, raËunajte na viπe od tisuÊu stuba. BuduÊi da ga tvore tri raspoznatljiva dijela, najprije Êete proÊi kroz noviji koji se spuπta niz padinu (Gradiciol), zatim kroz Podgrae, pa tek zatim, malo zadihani, stiæete u najstariji dio na vrhu, otkud je sve poËelo. Najprije kroz vanjska gradska CROATIA AIRLINES

vrata novijeg prstena iz 15. stoljeÊa (u njima je danas lapidarij), pa kroz unutarnja vrata starijih zidina iz 13. i 14. stoljeÊa, no izmeu njih, na vanjskom trgu, obvezno morate zastati u gradskoj loæi iz 17. stoljeÊa, zbog spektakularnog pogleda na okolinu. U 10. i 11. stoljeÊu Motovun je pripadao PoreËkoj biskupiji, a 1278. preuzela ga je Venecija i okruæila masivnim zidinama, danaπnjom πetnicom s jedinstvenim pogledom na sve Ëetiri strane Istre. Sva tri dijela grada povezana su unutarnjim i vanjskim utvrdama, kulama i gradskim vratima, s elementima romanike, gotike i renesanse, sagraeni izmeu 14. i 17. stoljeÊa, πto je ∑ kaæu struËnjaci ∑ tipiËan primjer venecijanske kolonijalne arhitekture. Na glavnom trgu u starom srediπtu, poput svijeÊe na torti, uzdiæe se barokna crkva sv. Stjepana iz poËetka 17. stoljeÊa, sagraena na temeljima starije crkve. Uz nju se uzdigao stariji romaniËko-gotiËki zvonik iz 13. stoljeÊa, a sve na temeljima starokrπÊanske bazilike iz antiËkog doba, Ëak veÊe od danaπnjeg crkvenog zdanja. Prekoputa Sv. Stjepana ne moæete zaobiÊi romaniËku Komunalnu palaËu, graenu u 12., a proπirivanu i obnavljanu u 16. i 17. stoljeÊu (danas je u njoj smjeπtena Galerija suvremene umjetnosti), najveÊu profanu zgradu u Istri iz toga vremena. Ispred crkve, ispod glavnog trga Andrea Antico, velika srednjovjekovna cisterna nekoÊ je Motovunjane 50

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opskrbljivala vodom, a podno grada prolazila je æeljezniËka pruga Parenzana, kojom je Motovun na zapadu lovio vezu s PoreËom, a na sjeveru sa Slovenijom i Italijom. To je sjediπte domaÊih plemiÊa joπ iz predvenecijanskog razdoblja, znanih obitelji Barbo i Polesini, koje su na svojim posjedima ostavile lijepe primjere zidnog slikarstva, proπarane glagoljskim, latinskim i dijalektalnim grafitima. Restaurirana palaËa Polesinijevih danas je hotel Kaπtel. U gradu je odrastao Andrea Antico, renesansni skladatelj i jedan od prvih koji je kao izdavaË rabio crtovlje i suvremeni naËin pisanja glazbe, pa je po njemu glavni trg i dobio ime. Tu je ponikao i izumitelj brodskog vijka Josef Resel, Ëiji je motiv propelera zaπtitni znak Motovunskog filmskog festivala, a u novije se vrijeme proslavio Motovunjanin Mario Andretti, legendarni automobilist i svjetski prvak u formuli 1. Kada obiete sve povijesne znamenitosti gradiÊa, pogled ipak obvezno zavrπi na drugoj obali Mirne, u gustoj Motovunskoj park-πumi, πto se protegla na desetak Ëetvornih kilometara. Zbog smeeg hrasta (Quercus robur), kvalitetom i ËvrstoÊom sliËnoga poznatome slavonskom, ovdje su se vodile bitke za njezino iskoriπtavanje, ali Motovun je uz podrπku Venecije pobjeivao, sjekuÊi ih za gradnju venecijanske flote, te se i veliki Goethe æelio uvjeriti u kakvoÊu istarskog drveta na kojemu se temeljila slava Venecijanske Republike. Drvo se danas viπe ne sijeËe, ali zato je vlaæna i sjenovita Motovunska πuma zbog poznatih tartufa dospjela na gurmansku kartu svijeta. Ta podzemna gljiva koja mazi nepce i pripisuju joj afrodizijaËku moÊ, konzumira se joπ od rimskih vremena, a danas su bijeli i tri vrste crnog tartufa zaπtitni znak ovoga kraja. Siva glinena zemlja i blaga klima bez velikih temperaturnih razlika idealno je staniπte za osobito osjetljiv i najcjenjeniji bijeli tartuf, a lov uz pomoÊ posebno dresiranih pasa ovdje je unosan posao. Od svibnja do studenoga traje sezona lova na crne, a od listopada do kraja prosinca love se bijeli tartufi, i to je vrijeme kada sladokusci zbog svjeæe gljive osobito rado svraÊaju u svjetski centar tartufa, kako nazivaju obliænje mjesto Livade i najpoznatijeg tartufara Zigantea, poznatog i po najveÊem pronaenom tartufu u svijetu, uvrπtenom u Guinnessovu knjigu rekorda. Iako u trgovinama moæete naÊi maslinovo ulje s tartufima, konzerviranu pastu od tartufa ili tartufe s vrganjima, niπta ne moæe nadmaπiti delikatan okus svjeæih na Danima tartufa, koji u Livadama traju od rujna do studenoga, kada se organizira i poseban festival s natjecanjem u pronalaæenju najveÊeg primjerka. Biftek s tartufima, njoki s tartufima, domaÊa tjestenina fuæi i pljukanci s tartufima, slastice

s tartuﬁma... sve to moæete naÊi u mnogobrojnim konobicama i restoranima u neposrednoj blizini Motovuna. Osobitost je Istre i njezine unutraπnjosti poput Motovuna πto Êete ovdje naÊi spoj mediteranske i kontinentalne kuhinje, pa na istome mjestu moæete kuπati ribu list, πkampe, Jakovljevu kapicu (po domaÊi kapeπante), kao i odrezak od istarskoga goveda boπkarina, divljaË na sve naËine, divlje πparoge u proljeÊe, maslinovo ulje, prπut, ombolo i kobasice, pa vina muπkat, merlot, refoπk, bijeli i sivi pinot, chardonay, hrvaticu, borgonju, cabernet sauvignon, te malvaziju i teran koji osobito uspjeπno uspijeva u okolini Motovuna. A u Motovunu sada mogu biti veoma ponosni na svoju malvaziju. U najnovijem sedmom izdanju Svjetskog atlasa vina (prvi put izdanog i kao iPad eBook), toj vinskoj Bibliji britanskih autora Hugha Johnsona i Jancis Robinson, meu pet novih vina iz Gruzije, Kine, Juæne Afrike, SAD i Hrvatske, na svjetskoj vinskoj sceni istaknuta je i istarska malvazija. Svijet tako dolazi u Motovun, a Motovun i njegova okolica odlaze u svijet. ■

oogle co-founder, Larry Page, arrived in Zagreb on Tuesday on a private Boeing 767, owned by the Blue City Holdings Company of Oklahoma. He is supposed to attend the wedding of his brother-in-law tomorrow which will take place in Motovun. American wedding organizers have booked all the rooms and suites in town, as well as rented both town squares ∑ Andrea Antico Square and Josip Resel Square, for the wedding reception... News of the event spread like wildﬁre across the show-business sections of Croatian media portals, because it is not every day that members of the world elite get married in a small Istrian town such as Motovun. Perched on a cone shaped hill with a plateau on top, located by the Mirna river valley, across from the renowned Motovun Forest, the tiny medieval town emerges from the soft cascades of Istrian greenery and grape growing slopes, and in autumn, when thick fog descends upon Istria, the hilltop town ﬂoats above the sea of cotton like a surreal castle in the air. Due to its unassuming beauty and legends of Nazor’s good-natured giant Great Joe, it reminds me of the fairytale homeland of Hobbits from the Lord of the Rings, so it is not surprising that the American couple decided to get married here, in what they thought was the most romantic place to say the crucial I do to each other. Not so long ago, when life and tourism were thriving mainly along the coast, Motovun was

a desolate town in the heart of the Istrian peninsula. However, in just over a decade, it has become a mecca for young, non-conventional and intellectually curious visitors. It is particularly popular among students who come for the international film festival. Since the festival was first launched in 1999, film buffs have flocked to Motovun to attend this review dedicated to small cinematographies and independent productions. One main criterion has to be fulfilled to ensure a film’s showing: the author has to be innovative in order to fit in with the free-thinking atmosphere of the festival. This is why the British daily, The Guardian, has recently described it as a combination of the British Glastonbury Festival of contemporary performing arts, and the American Sundance Festival of independent movies. With only one hotel in town and a limited number of (ever more elegant) apartments, viewers come with backpacks and tents and camp at the foot of the town, thus camps have become one of the symbols of the event. A small festival of small movies in a small town, which is what its founder Rajko GrliÊ and his film colleagues had in mind when they were setting it up, has become a big event which has hosted the likes of Ken Russell and Vanessa Redgrave and where finding a seat during the screenings in Motovun’s main square is tantamount to winning a jack pot. Secluded in the much calmer interior of the peninsula, and yet close to the sea, places like Motovun are attracting an increasing number of the discerning visitors of Istria who come here in pursuit of various delights and experiences all year round. Due to its temperate climate, several times a year Motovun is host to ballooning competitions, and due to the peace and quiet it offers, it is the venue of scientific and business gatherings, seminars, summer schools and workshops, such as the International Summer School of Health and the International Summer School of Architecture. If you point your finger at the centre of Istria, and move it just slightly northward, you cannot miss Motovun. Once you find yourself there, everything seems to be at your fingertips. Twenty kilometres away in one direction is Buje, and in the other direction is Buzet; in two shakes you can be in Groænjan, the town of music; a 30 minute drive separates you from Novigrad or PoreË, a bit further south. Not far away is the medicinal Istarske Toplice Spa and Oprtalj which many say is a miniature Motovun. You can almost see all of that in one day. However, if you decide to walk the distance from the foot of the hill to the old town, which is at an altitude of 270 metres above sea level CROATIA AIRLINES

and has two rows of walls that surround it, you must be aware that you will have to climb one thousand steps. The town itself consists of three different and rather recognizable parts. The ﬁrst one you will walk through is the newest residential area on the slopes of the hill, Gradiciol, the next one is Podgrae, and ﬁnally, feeling somewhat short of breath, you will arrive at the oldest part at the very top, where the story of Motovun started. You will enter through the outer gate of the newer of the two rings around the town which was built in the 15th century (currently it houses a lapidarium) and then through the inner gate of the older wall from the 13th and 14th century. Between the two of them, you should stop in the outer square and in the city loggia from the 17th century and enjoy the spectacular view of the surroundings. In the 10th and 11th centuries, Motovun belonged to the PoreË Diocese, and in 1278, it was taken over by Venice which surrounded it with a massive wall. This wall currently serves as a promenade from which there are breathtaking views of all four sides of Istria. All three parts of the town are connected by inner and outer ramparts, bulwarks and town gates, featuring elements of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Built between the 14th and 17th centuries, they rep-

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resent a typical example of Venetian colonial architecture, according to experts. The main square in the very centre features the baroque Church of St. Stephen from the early 17th century which rises from the square like a candle on a birthday cake. It was erected on the foundations of an older church. Adjacent to it is an even older Romanesque ∑ Gothic belfry from the 13th century, and both lie on the foundations of the old Christian basilica from ancient times which stood there even bigger than the present sacral edifice. Across the square from the Church of St. Stephen, you cannot miss the Romanesque Communal Palace, which was built in the 12th century and subsequently extended and renovated in the 16th and 17th centuries (it currently houses the Gallery of Contemporary Art) as the biggest secular building in all of Istria at the time. The medieval cistern in front of the church, below Andrea Antico Square, used to provide water to the citizens of Motovun. The railway line Parenzana meandered around the foot of the hill and connected Motovun with PoreË in the west and Slovenia and Italy in the north. Before the Venetians ruled, Motovun was the seat of the local noble families Barbo and Polesini on whose estates we can find beautiful examples of fresco paintings interspersed with graffiti in Glagolitic and Latin scripts and in the local dialects. The restored Polesini Palace is currently the hotel Kaπtel. Andrea Antico, a renaissance composer and one of the first publishers of music who used the staff and the modern way of transcribing music, grew up in Motovun and the main square bears his name. The inventor of the ship propeller, Josef Resel, lived and worked here. His propeller is the trademark of the Motovun Film Festival. One of the more recent celebrities from Motovun is Mario Andretti, the legendary car racer and the world Formula 1 champion. After a stroll through Motovun and a visit to all of its historical landmarks, your view will inevitably gaze across the field and end up on the other bank of the Mirna River, in the dense Motovun Park Forest, which covers an area of some ten square kilometres. The forest abounds in English oak (Quercus robur), very similar to Slavonian oak in terms of its quality and hardness. In the past, battles were fought for the right to exploit the forest and fell this high quality tree, but Motovun prevailed with the help of Venice and cut it for the construction of the Venetian fleet. The great Goethe himself wanted to test the quality of the building wood from Istria which was the lynchpin of the glory of the Venetian Republic. Trees are no longer felled today, but the humid and shady Motovun Forest has a new claim to

fame: truffles have put it on the gourmet map of the world. The subterranean mushroom which mollycoddles the palate and ostensibly has aphrodisiac properties has been consumed since the time of the ancient Romans. Today, the white truffle and three types of black truffles are the regional trademark. The grey clay soil and the mild climate without any major oscillations in temperature are the ideal habitat for the particularly delicate and the most appreciated white truffl e. Truffl e hunting dogs are trained to find it in the forest and the activity is very lucrative for the locals. The black truffle hunting season extends from May to November, while the white truffles are harvested from October until the end of December. This is the time when gourmets like to pay a visit to the global capital of truffles, which is what they call the nearby Livade, and the best known truffle hunter Zigante, who has found the biggest truffle ever and made it into the Guinness Book of Records. Although you can find olive oil with truffles, tinned truffle paste or truffles with porcini in shops, nothing can beat the delicious taste of fresh truffles which are served during Truffles Days in Livade from September to November. One of the features of the event is a special competition to find the biggest truffle. Truffle steak, gnocchi with truffles, homemade pasta known as fuæi and pljukanci with truffles, desserts with truffles… you can find all that in numerous wine cellars and restaurants at a stone’s throw from Motovun. One of the idiosyncrasies of all of Istria, and particularly its inland, including Motovun, is its cuisine, a blend of Mediterranean and continental, which is why here you can sample a hotchpotch of dishes including sole, scampi, scallops, but also the Istrian beefsteak, game prepared in all sorts of ways, wild asparagus in the springtime, olive oil, prosciutto, ombolo pork chops and sausages, as well as wines; Muscat, Merlot, Refoπk, white and grey Pinot, Chardonnay, Hrvatica, Borgogna, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malvazija and Teran, which grow very successfully around Motovun. As of recently, the people of Motovun have good reason to be particularly proud of their Malvazija. The most recent, seventh edition of the World Atlas of Wine (for the first time ever it has also been published as an iPad eBook), the wine Bible by British authors Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson, presents fi ve new wines from Georgia, China, South Africa, the USA and Croatia. The Croatian representative on the global wine scene is Istrian Malvazija. Thus, the world comes to Motovun, while Motovun and its surroundings go to the world. ■

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■ ARHITEKTURA ARCHITECTURE

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Piše/By Irena IriÊ

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Turisti vole komfor, luksuz, hedonizam. Uza sve to, neizostavni dio formule uspjeha jest i dobro pogoena arhitektura, tipiËna za regiju u kojoj se kuÊa nalazi, ali prilagoena suvremenim kriterijima i potrebama. Idealna kuÊa za odmor nalazi se u Æminju, mjestaπcu u središtu Istre, koje oduπevljava predivnom prirodom i tako æeljenom mirnoÊom i tiπinom, a dovoljno je blizu svim vaænijim gradovima u Istri, u kojima se po æelji mogu potraæiti zabavni sadræaji. Tourists love comfort, luxury and hedonism. In addition to all of this, an essential part of the key to success is the architecture, which should be typical of the region where the house is located, and yet adapted to contemporary criteria and needs. The ideal vacation home is located in Æminj, a small town in the heart of Istria which attracts with its beautiful nature and much desired serenity and tranquillity, and yet it is still close

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enough to all the major cities in Istria where entertainment can be found if desired.

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P. StrmeËki

uristi žele sve ono πto Ëesto nemaju kod kuÊe ili u Ëemu nemaju prilike uæivati zbog ubrzanog ritma svakodnevice. Zbog toga bi idealna kuÊa za odmor trebala deﬁ nitivno imati bazen, whirlpool, ve liku kuhinju, konobu, po moguÊnosti sobu za sitne guπte i hobije poput, primjerice, one za bilijar i, naravno, zasebnu kupaonicu u svakoj spavaÊoj sobi. Uza sve to, neizostavni dio formule uspjeha jest i dobro pogoena arhitektura, tipiËna za regiju u kojoj se kuÊa nalazi, ali prilagoena suvremenim kriterijima i potrebama. To je vrlo vaæno. Dakle, ako neki ljudi dolaze na odmor u Istru iz NjemaËke, sasvim sigurno æele, kad se vrate natrag, pokazati prijateljima kako su iznajmili cool kuÊu. Za Istru su tipiËni materijali kamen i drvo i budite sigurni da se veÊina gostiju prije dolaska dobro raspitala o kraju koji posjeÊuju, pa je sasvim oËekivano da oni takav podatak znaju i oËekuju. Prema mojem iskustvu, πto autohtoniji osjeÊaj kuÊa za najam pruæa, to bolje, ali mora imati moderne detalje i suvremenu tehnologiju 21. stoljeÊa kako bi bila potpuni hit meu strancima, kaže

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Maja BruËiÊ, mlada zagrebaËka arhitektica iz tvrtke Lotus Architecti, koja je zajedno s kolegom Jamesom Priceom Chuckom napravila, prema miπljenju mnogih, jednu od najljepπih kuÊa za odmor u Hrvatskoj. Impresivna vila ima oko 350 Ëetvornih metara i projektirana je za boravak osam do deset osoba. Nalazi se u Æminju, mjestaπcu u središtu Istre, koje oduπevljava predivnom prirodom i tako æeljenom mirnoÊom i tiπinom, ali dovoljno je blizu svim vaænijim gradovima u Istri, u kojima se po æelji mogu potraæiti zabavni sadræaji. ∑ Cijela priËa poËela je potkraj ljeta 2010. godine. Mog poslovnog partnera Jamesa kontaktirao je poznanik, agent za nekretnine. Rekao mu je kako je neki braËni par kupio zemljiπte u Æminju i kako traga za dobrim arhitektonskim uredom koji bi mu izradio projekt za savrπenu kuÊu jer supruænici za to nisu imali ni vremena ni iskustva ∑ prisjeÊa se Maja BruËiÊ i dodaje kako joj se veÊ isprva projekt uËinio izazovnim. ∑ Svaki arhitekt voli moguÊnost mijenjanja postojeÊeg stanja, pa tako i ja. Joπ prije sam Ëula da u okolici Æminja kroniËno nedostaje

kuÊa za odmor, a potraænja je velika. Nakon πto smo sagradili ovu kuÊu, reËeno nam je da samo u Æminju nedostaje 50-ak takvih kuÊa za odmor s obzirom na trenutaËne upite. Hrvatska po tome, na æalost, veoma zaostaje za svijetom. Nedovoljno se grade kuÊe za odmor, a one koje se i sagrade, nisu po standardima koje gosti traæe. Ipak, moram priznati da Istra najviπe napreduje i da je kao regija najdalje otiπla u smislu turizma i ponude bogatim zapadnjacima. Istra je preuzela mnogo toga po uzoru na Italiju, preciznije Toskanu. Uz ponudu kuÊa za odmor nude se i mnogi drugi sadræaji, bogata gastronomska ponuda i mnogo vinskih cesta, pa je to sve zajedno kao paket turistima najprimamljivije i stoga je upita za Istru najviπe. No, takvih je kuÊa i dalje premalo. Moramo se pomaknuti ∑ istiËe arhitektica koja primjerom ove kuÊe u Æminju æeli pokazati kako se stvari i te kako mogu mijenjati i raditi na svjetskoj razini. ∑ Ova je kuÊa prije svega graena u poslovne svrhe, za iznajmljivanje turistima. Zato su vlasnici i traæili nekoga tko poznaje sve

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πumi, vjetru i suncu da uu u prostor kuÊe i oplemene ga. ∑ Zato smo napravili vilu Ëiji sjeverni dio gleda na selo te je s njim u korespondenciji: mali otvori, proporcija koja odgovara tipiËnoj staroj istarskoj arhitekturi, a s juæne strane kuÊa doæivljava potpunu metamorfozu te sa svojim oblicima, otvorima i suvremenoπÊu prati prirodu, πumu, sunce, vjetar i nebo, poπtujuÊi uvijek i prije svega tradicionalnu arhitekturu te prirodne materijale, drvo i kamen. Uza svu tu prirodu, nedostajao je samo element vode. Vlasnici su htjeli veliki bazen, a iako je u Hrvatskoj najËeπÊe obiËaj da ljudi stave bazen dalje od kuÊe, mi smo se odluËili za potpuno drukËiji koncept te smo vodu kao jedan od najvaænijih prirodnih elemenata æeljeli takoer maksimalno inkorporirati u projekt. Stoga smo bazen naslonili na vilu, tj. podrumski stakleni zid ili akvarijsko staklo postalo je jedan zid bazena. Tako kad boravite u wellness zoni u podrumu, moæete vidjeti ljude kroz staklenu stijenu kako plivaju u bazenu. Osim toga, cilj je bio i dovesti SunËevu svjetlost kroz vodu u podrum danju te tako na veËer stvoriti romantiËan ugoaj u sauni gledajuÊi u staklenu stijenu bazena kada se ukljuËe svjetla u njemu i kada priguπena svjetlost kroz vodu ulazi u podrum ∑ opisuje arhitektica. Uz bazen nalazi se i pool bar s roπtiljem, koji je raen po uzoru na stari istarski kazun te

V. Skledar

tajne takvog projektiranja i nekoga tko Êe im napraviti projekt od a do æ. Kako bi se reklo, kljuË u ruke, kompletnu uslugu koja ukljuËuje izradu poslovnog plana i izradu studije isplativosti, izradu prezentacijskog materijala, projektiranje, nadzor, konzalting, opremanje, a na posljetku i promidžbu i marketing. Danas Hrvatska ima malo tvrtki koje mogu pruæiti takvu, kompletnu uslugu na profesionalnoj razini. Mi kao tim Lotus Architecti i Porta Aurea ventures bili smo spremni u potpunosti prihvatiti taj izazov. James se fokusirao na prezentacijske materijale, poslovni plan i studiju isplativosti te je vodio raËuna o budæetu, a ja sam se posvetila arhitekturi, iako smo zajedno stvorili koncept i ideju, ukljuËivπi mnoge faktore, meu ostalim i mikrolokaciju, orijentaciju zemljiπta, okoliπ i tradicionalnu arhitekturu. Glavni nam je cilj bio napraviti projekt koji je dobra investicija, a ne samo lijepa vila ∑ objaπnjava arhitektica BruËiÊ. Dodaje kako su partner James i ona dobro prouËili orijentaciju i okruæje Ëim su prvi put doπli na gradiliπte. Parcela je bila vrlo lijepa, zelena povrπina okruæena zelenilom πume s tri strane, a s jedne strane, sjeverne, nalazilo se nekoliko stotina metara udaljeno malo pitoreskno selo. Nakon πto su dobro razgledali parcelu, odmah im je bilo jasno da buduÊu vilu treba maksimalno otvoriti i povezati s tom lijepom prirodom tako da se projektiraju veliki otvori i prostori koji Êe doslovno dopustiti

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kuÊica koja ima ulogu spremiπta za vrtnu opremu i bicikle. Na ulazu u parcelu nalazi se i nadstreπnica za parking vozila. KuÊa ima tri etaæe. Nakon πto se proe kroz glavna ulazna vrata, odmah se naete u velikom open spaceu koji ukljuËuje dnevni boravak, biblioteku, blagovaonicu, mali WC, kuhinju s terasom za doruËak okrenutu prema istoku te jednu spavaÊu sobu s garderobom i kupaonicom. Zanimljivo je da ta soba u prizemlju ima i vanjski dio kupaonice s rain showerom, pa se oni koji borave u toj sobi ujutro ili na veËer mogu tuπirati na otvorenom, ispod neba. Blagovaonica i dnevni boravak, pak, imaju izravni izlaz na bazen, terasu i vanjski lounge koji je dio dnevnog boravka, ali uz bazen, dakle vanjski prostor na kojem se ljudi mogu odmarati i uæivati kao da su u kuÊi, ali zapravo su na otvorenom. ∑ Kako su po horizontali dnevni boravak i blagovaonica povezani s bazenom i πumom, tako su po vertikali povezani s plavetnilom neba. Naime, ukupna je visina dnevnog boravka i blagovaonice do krova πest metara te su na toj visini od poda do krova velike staklene stijene kroz koje dopire mnogo svjetlosti i kroz koje se zapravo vidi nebo. Na taj naËin ostvarena je velika dinamika u vili formirajuÊi 60

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galerijske prostore i vizure ∑ kaže Maja BruËiÊ. Na katu kuÊe tri su spavaÊe sobe, svaka sa svojom kupaonicom i garderobom te gotovo nestvarnim pogledima na πumu i prirodu. Od toga dvije sobe imaju izlaz na velike terase. ∑ Kada je doπao red na ureenje, dogovorili smo se s vlasnicima da Êemo kuÊu opremiti komadima namjeπtaja i detaljima koji su jednostavni, ali lijepi. Tako smo dio namjeπtaja kupili u IKEA-i, a druge smo, veÊe komade, dali dizajnirati po narudæbi i izraditi kod lokalnog stolara. U interijeru prevladava, kako mi volimo reÊi, opuπten, udoban stil. Na zidovima se nalazi uglavnom kamen kojim smo se koristili i za oblaganje fasade, a pod je drven i rustikalan. U podrumu, kao i u svim kupaonicama, na podu su keramiËke ploËice. Negdje je to mozaik, a negdje gres keramika u imitaciji drvenih dasaka ∑ kaæe Maja BruËiÊ i dodaje kako je u ovom projektu najveÊi izazov bio uskladiti spoj tradicije i suvremenosti regije u kojoj se nalazi kuÊa. No, veoma je zadovoljna rezultatom. Vlasnici su takoer zadovoljni, a da su uspjeli u svojoj misiji, najbolje govore nasmijeπena lica i pohvale gostiju, kojih ima tijekom cijele godine, a ne samo u ljetnim mjesecima. ∑ Projektirali smo ovu kuÊu tako da bude u funkciji cijelu godinu i to je kuÊa za odmor u

svim godiπnjim dobima. U grijanom bazenu i whirlpoolu moæe se kupati Ëitave godine ∑ zakljuËuje Maja BruËiÊ. Q

ourist admire everything they often do not have at home or things they do not have the chance to enjoy due to the fast pace of everyday life. Therefore, the ideal vacation home should deﬁ nitely have a swimming pool, a whirlpool, a large kitchen, a wine cellar, and if possible, a recreational room for hobbies and small pleasures such as billiards, and, of course, every bedroom should have its own bathroom. In addition to all of this, an essential part of the key to success is the architecture, which should be typical of the region where the house is located, and yet adapted to contemporary criteria and needs. This is very important. When people from Germany come home from a vacation in Istria they will certainly want to show their friends the cool house they had rented. In Istria, the staple building materials are stone and wood, and you can be sure that most of the guests will have inquired about the area they are going to visit in order to arrive well informed and to know what they can expect. Based on my experience, the more autochthonous the holiday let feels, the better, but it must

∑ Every architect, including myself, loves the possibility of changing the current situation. I had already heard that there was a chronic lack of vacation homes in the area around Æminj, and that the demand was quite great. After we built this house, we were told that in Æminj alone there was a lack of some 50 or so such vacation homes based on the current inquiries. Unfortunately, Croatia is lagging behind the rest of the world in this area. There are not enough vacation homes being built, and those that are built are not up to the standards that the guests are looking for. ∑ However, I must admit that Istria has made the most progress in that respect, and as a region it has gone the furthest in terms of tourism and what it offers to wealthy westerners. Istria has taken many ideas from the Italian model, speciﬁ cally Tuscany. Along with the vacation homes, many other contents are also on offer, such as a rich cuisine and many wine roads. All of this together creates an alluring tourism package and therefore the highest demand is for Istria. ∑ However, there are still too few houses of this kind. We have to move forward, says the architect, who using the house in Æminj as an example wants to show how things can

change for the better and how the highest global standards can be met. − First of all, this house is being built for business, as a holiday let. That is why the owners were looking for someone who knows all the ins and outs of this kind of development project and someone who will carry it out from A to Z. ∑ As they say, turnkey, a complete service which includes the creation of a business plan and feasibility studies, the preparation of presentation materials, design, supervision, consulting, equipping, and ultimately promotion and marketing. Croatia currently has very few companies which can offer such complete services on a professional level. As a team we were totally ready to embrace such a challenge. James focused on the presentation materials, the business plans and feasibility studies, as well as took care of budgeting, and I was responsible for the architecture, although together we created the concept and idea, including many factors, such as the micro-location, the orientation of the land, the environment and traditional architecture. Our main goal was to create a project that was a good investment, not only a nice villa, explained architect BruËiÊ.

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also have modern features and modern 21st century technology in order to be a complete hit among foreigners, says Maja BruËiÊ, a young architect from the Zagreb company Lotus Architects, who along with her colleague James Price Chuck made one of the most beautiful houses in Croatia, according to many. The impressive villa has a footprint of about 350m2 and was designed to accommodate eight to ten people. It is located in Æminj, a small town in the heart of Istria which attracts with its beautiful nature and much desired serenity and tranquillity, and yet it is still close enough to all the major cities in Istria where entertainment can be found if desired. ∑ The whole story started at the end of the summer of 2010. My business partner James was contacted by an acquaintance, a real estate agent. He told him that a married couple, who had bought a piece of land in Æminj, were looking for a good team of architects who would design the perfect house for them because the couple had neither the time nor the experience to do so, recalls Maja BruËiÊ, adding that the commission sounded like a fantastic challenge at ﬁrst glance.

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It is interesting that the ground fl oor bedroom also has an outdoor par t of the bathroom with a rain shower, so that in the mornings or evenings those who are staying in that room can take a shower in the open, under the sky. The dining room and living room have direct access to the swimming pool, terrace and outdoor lounge which is part of the living room but is by the pool, so the outdoor area is where people can relax and enjoy as if they were in the house but they are in fact outdoors. ∑ As the living room and dining room are horizontally connected with the pool and forest, they are also vertically connected with the blue sky. ∑ Specifi cally, the total height of the living room and dining room to the ceiling is six meters, and from the floor to ceiling there are large glass panels through which comes a lot of light and through which we can see the sky. In this way a great dynamic is achieved in the villa in the form of gallery space and vistas, says Maja BruËiÊ. On the fi rst fl oor there are three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom and walk-in wardrobe, and almost surreal views of the forest and nature. Two of these rooms have access to large terraces. ∑ When the time came to furnish the house, we agreed with the owners that we would equip the house with pieces of furniture and details that are simple, but still beautiful. So we bought some of the furniture at IKEA, and we had the other, larger pieces, custom built by a local carpenter. The interior is dominated, as we like to say, by a relaxed, comfortable style. The walls are mainly covered with stone which we also used for cladding the facade, and the floors are wooden and rustic. We used ceramic tiles on the floors in the basement and in all the bathrooms. ∑ In some places there are mosaics and in others ceramic tiles which imitate wooden planks, says Maja BruËiÊ, adding that the biggest challenge of this project was to harmonize the blend of tradition and modernity in the region where the house is located. However, we are very satisfied with the result. The owners are also satisfied, and the evidence that they have succeeded in their mission are the smiling faces and the praise from the guests, who come all year round, not only during the summer months. ∑ We designed this house so that it is operational throughout the year as a vacation home for all seasons. You can swim all year in the heated pool and whirlpool, says Maja BruËiÊ. Q

She added that she and her partner James carefully studied the orientation and environment as soon as they ﬁrst came to the site. The plot was very nice, a green area surrounded by a green forest on three sides, and on one side, the north, there was a little picturesque village just a few hundred meters away. Once they had a good look around the land, it immediately became clear to them that the future villa needed to be open to and connect to that beautiful nature as much as possible, and so they designed large openings and spaces that would literally allow the forest, wind and sunlight to enter the space of the house and ennoble it. ∑ That is why we made a villa whose northern part overlooks the village and corresponds with it: small openings, whose proportions correspond to typical old Istrian architecture, while the south side of the house experi62

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Maja BruËiÊ

Ž. Piljak

P. StrmeËki

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ences a complete metamorphosis so that its shapes, openings and modernity follow the nature, forest, sun, wind and the sky, ﬁrst and foremost respecting the traditional architecture and natural materials of wood and stone. ∑ In all of that nature, only the element of water was missing. The owners wanted a large pool, and even though most people in Croatia put their pools far away from the house, we decided to go with a completely different concept. Since water is one of the most important natural elements we wanted to incorporate it into the project as much as possible. Hence, we placed the pool against the villa, that is, a glass basement wall, aka, an aquarium panel became one of the walls of the pool. Now, when you are in the wellness zone in the basement you can see the people swimming in the pool through the glass wall. In addition, the aim was to allow the sunlight to come through the water into the basement during the day and in the evening to create a romantic atmosphere in the sauna while looking at the glass wall of the pool when the light enters it and when the dimmed light enters the basement through the water, describes the architect. Beside the pool there is a pool bar with a barbecue modelled after an old Istrian kaæun, a small house that serves as storage for garden equipment and bicycles. There is a carport at the entrance to the land. The house has three storeys. When you enter through the front door, you immediately ﬁnd yourself in a large open space that includes a living room, library, dining room, a small bathroom, a kitchen with a breakfast terrace facing east, and one bedroom with a walk-in closet and an en-suite bathroom.

www.lotusarchitecti.com info@lotusarchitecti.com

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■ PODMORJE UNDERSEA WORLD

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Piše/By Zvonko Varošanec Fotograﬁje/Photos Gojko Vukov-ColiÊ

ZagrebaËka izloæba fotograﬁja Ëetvorice podmorskih snimatelja, dr. Marina Kvarantana, dr. Alena Solda, –anija IgliÊa i Branka Bumbaka otkrila je svu ljepotu Ëudesnog svijeta koralja. Kvalitetom, ljepotom i bojom jadranski su svjetski cijenjeni, a priËa o crvenom zlatu i priËa je o malom otoku blizu ©ibenika. The exhibition held in Zagreb presented works by four underwater photographers: Marino Kvarantan, D.Sc., Alen Soldo, D.Sc., –ani IgliÊ and Branko Bumbak, and revealed the beauty of the fascinating world of corals. The quality, beauty and colours of the Adriatic corals have gained them fame all over the world, while the story of corals is the story of a small island near ©ibenik. CROATIA AIRLINES

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raÊajuÊi se u stihovima Zlarinu, otoku svoga roenja, proslavljena Vesna Parun u pjesmi Koralj vraÊen moru pjeva o crvenom i granatom cvijetu/ πto nije ni kamen ni πkoljka ni so ni loza ni klica/ a æivi i raste i moæe da postane brdo i ostrvo. Koraljara u Zlarinu viπe nema, ali ostaje æiva uspomena na kameni cvijet koji je obiljeæio taj mali otok srednjega Jadrana. Vesna Parun nije mogla bolje opisati koralje. VeÊina ih æivim bojama, pokretnim lovkama i mesnatim tijelom podsjeÊa na biljke i sve do potkraj 18. stoljeÊa nije se znalo da su to æivotinje, i to doista vaæne i neobiËne æivotinje bez kojih bi naπ svijet bio nezamisliv. Prema grai, broju lovki i pregrada, dijele se u dva podrazreda, πesterolovkaπe Hexacoralliju (Zoanthiniaria) i osmerolovkaπe Octocoralliju (Alcyonaria). Podrazred Octocorallia obuhvaÊa šest redova, a u Jadranu su njihovi predstavnici blijeda ruËica (Alcyonium palmatum), morsko stabalce (Eunicella cavolinii), morsko pero (Pteroides spinosum) i crveni koralj (Corallium rubrum) po kojemu je cijela vrsta dobila ime. Kada je rijeË o koraljnim grebenima, najveÊi meu njima australski je Veliki koraljni greben, sastavljen od 2900 pojedinaËnih grebena i 900 otoka koji se proteæu na 150 km duæine i 2000 km πirine. Za gradnju i opstanak te na svijetu najveÊe pojedinaËne strukture, naËinjene mahom od slojeva kalcijeva karbonata, zasluæni su bilijuni malih æivotinjica koraljnih polipa, koji pripadaju koljenu æarnjaka. IzdvajajuÊi kalcijev karbonat iz morske vode, ti ga polipi rabe za gradnju vanjskog zaπtitnog kostura. VeÊina koralja koji tvore grebene, æivi u simbiozi s algama koje im daju energiju i koje trebaju SunËevu svjetlost, te su zato nastanjeni u plitkim predjelima do 30 metara dubine. Simbioza algi i koralja kakvu nalazimo u australskom Velikom koraljnom grebenu datira od prije 20 000 godina. Starost je danaπnjih koraljnih grebena izmeu 6000 i 8000 godina. Prema grËkoj legendi, crveni je koralj nastao kada je Perzej odsjekao Meduzinu glavu i bacio je u more. Prekrivene Meduzinom krvlju, morske su se alge okamenile i postale koralji. Prema vjerovanju mnogih naroda, to su boæanska stvorenja, a njihovo se boæansko podrijetlo odrazilo na njihovu ljepotu. BuduÊi da æive u nedostupnim morskim dubinama, oduvijek ih je obavijala tajnovitost. Pripisuju im ljekovita svojstva, a vjerovalo se da πtite od zla. U antiËko se doba koralj smatrao svetim kamenom boæice ljubavi Afrodite. Stari EgipÊani, Grci i Rimljani njima su ukraπavali zidove svojih palaËa i vaza, te izraivali nakit, a sredozemni su koralj u trgovini mijenjali za jantar iz Sjevernog mora. U Indiji se pak vjeruje da lijeËi reumatizam, artritis i druge bolesti. Koralji zraËe,

a to zraËenje povezano je s planetom Marsom koji utjeËe na tjelesnu temperaturu, koπtanu sræ, te srediπnji æivËani sustav. U srednjem vijeku bio je obiËaj nositi komadiÊe koralja uza se kao amajliju protiv uroka, a i danas Ëesto djetetu daruju koraljnu narukvicu, jer koralji pri poviπenoj temperaturi tijela blijede, pa su odliËan indikator poviπene temperature. Ipak, danas se mahom rabe u izradi nakita, a onaj pravi, jadranski, dosiæe cijenu zlata. Brojni su dokazi da se crveni koralj (Corallium rubrum) na Sredozemlju lovi joπ od predrimskih vremena, a pretpostavlja se da je lov na Jadranu poËeo na jugu. StoljeÊima su ga lovili DubrovËani, Lastovljani i stanovnici otoka KoloËep, πto je naπlo odraza i u dubrovaËkim zakonima s kraja 14. stoljeÊa. Za raËun dubrovaËkih zakupnika, koraljari s KoloËepa lovili su ih Ëak u Egejskome moru, sve do otoka Malte. DubrovËani su iπli u koraljarske ekspedicije i u vode Levanta te su ulovljeno blago izvozili u Italiju, Francusku i arapske zemlje te sklapali druπtva s domaÊim i inozemnim koraljarima, πireÊi vjerojatno zanat po cijelom Jadranu. Tako je dubrovaËkom kancelaru Franciscusu de Archu (1342.∑1373.) joπ u 14. stoljeÊu, uz notarsku sluæbu, glavno zanimanje bilo organiziranje vaenja koralja. Na zadarskom je podruËju koraljarstvo bilo razvijeno veÊ u 13. stoljeÊu, a organizirala ga je Crkva. Organiziranjem lova na koralje i bisere osobito su se bavile redovnice koristeÊi ih za ukraπavanje sveÊeniËkih odora. DubrovËani su ih veoma rano sami obraivali, a u izvjeπataju s poËetka 19. stoljeÊa navodi se kako je sve do sredine 18. stoljeÊa glavna koraljarska djelatnost bila koncentrirana u Dubrovniku i Napulju, nakon Ëega inicijativu preuzimaju koraljari iz okolice ©ibenika, gdje se nalaze najbolja nalaziπta na Jadranu. Kada je rijeË o ©ibenskom arhipelagu, toËnije koraljarima s otoka Zlarina, spominje ih uvaæeni zadarski kulturni djelatnik Giuseppe Sabalich u traktatu iz 1907. godine La Dalmazia nei commerci della Serenissima. GovoreÊi o trgovinskim odnosima Dalmacije i MletaËke Republike, Sabalich navodi kako je Zlarinjanima lov na koralje bio poznat joπ prije no πto su doπli pod mletaËku vlast (1412.), πto znaËi veÊ u 14. stoljeÊu i prije, te navodi: Zlarinjani su hvatali dosta koralja i prodavali ga po niskim cijenama, πto je kupcima koristilo sto po sto. U istoj biljeπci spominje i Æirije, πto se uzima kao dokaz da su neke koraljne poπte nedaleko od tog otoka Zlarinjanima bile dobro poznate. U IV. toËki propisa o reguliranju vaenja koralja na podruËju πibenskih otoka, koji su donijeli sindici inkvizitori 1.svibnja 1749., spominju se stare sike na kojima je bilo dopušteno loviti brodovima opskrbljenima posebnim licencijama za vaenje koralja. Prema kazivanju starih CROATIA AIRLINES

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ribara, poloæaji tih sika zabiljeæeni su veÊ 1778. godine, a taj precizan popis oËiti je rezultat viπestoljetne veoma bogate koraljarske tradicije u πibenskom arhipelagu. Za razliku od DubrovËana, domaÊi su lovci kamene cvjetove prodavali u neobraenom stanju, postiæuÊi za njih razmjerno niske cijene, koje su na træiπtu veoma oscilirale. Kako je lov bio teæak posao, ta je privredna grana na πibenskom podruËju prolazila neopaæena. Tako ni humanist Juraj ©iægoriÊ, nabrajajuÊi 1487. vrlo precizno sve vrste riba, i to one najkvalitetnije kojima obiluje πibensko more, kod spominjanja otoka Zlarina i Æirija ne govori niπta o koraljima. Da li stoga πto se od davnina, joπ od vremena prije Plinija pa do ©iægoriÊeva doba i poslije, koralj smatrao biljkom, a ne æivotinjom, pa je ©iægoriÊ smatrao da mu nije mjesto u raspravi o ribama, ili pak zbog onovremene slabe proe na træiπtu, teπko je znati. U njegovo vrijeme koraljarstvo je imalo i brojne protivnike, jer smatralo se da se tim lovom uniπtavaju leæiπta srdela. Ribari su Ëak traæili da se potpuno zabrani. Takvi Êe opreËni pogledi na tu djelatnost ostaviti traga i u pisanim dokumentima, i to, dakako, prije svega dolaskom pod vladavinu MletaËke Republike, kojom poËinje razdoblje intenzivinjeg lova i iskoriπtavanja tog bogatstva iz morskih dubina. Dolaskom MleËana poËinje se uvelike razvijati trgovina koraljem s pravom zakupa, u kojoj su doπljaci prednost davali svojim sunarodnjacima. Da su ti strani zakupci isprva kupovali koralj od domaÊih ribara, a tek zatim organizirali lov, pokazuje zabiljeπka Palladija Fosca, koji u svom djelu De situ orae Illyrici godine1515. iznosi sljedeÊe: Udaljeno 12 milja od Murtera nalazi se Æirije, veoma poznato po svojim vinogradima. Tu se nalaze ostaci sruπene tvrave a pred nekoliko godina na tim su mjestima mletaËki trgovci kupovali koralje, koje su im tamo donosili ribari s podruËja nekoliko milja unaokolo, s otoka PrviÊa i Zlarina, gdje se skupljaju velike koliËine. To potvruje Sabalicheve navode kako su Zlarinjani bili vjeπti koraljari joπ u vrijeme prije mletaËke vlasti, ali i navodi na zakljuËak kako Êe domaÊi ribari ubrzo biti prisiljeni strancima otkriti svoja loviπta, a ti bi zatim snagom mletaËkih vlasti potpuno zagospodarili i trgovinom i lovom. Posvuda na Sredozemlju 16. je stoljeÊe bilo vaæno za lov na koralje. Pod vladavinom Karla IX. u Marseillesu (1560.∑74.) dva su trgovca dobila dozvolu za lov uz alæirske obale. I Venecija Êe, potaknuta tim primjerom, poËeti razvijati lov u morima Schiavonije ∑ zemlje robova, kako su MleËani tada zvali Dalmaciju. MleËani su smatrali taj lov novom gospodarskom granom te su za nj davali i poticaj, proglasivπi ga slobodnim uz obvezu davanja desetine.

Prvi domaÊi koraljar bio je ©ibenËanin Mihajlo Sinkovic, koji je dozvolu za ulov i obradu dobio 1687. godine. ©ibenËanin I. Battista Galbiani zakupljuje od 1754. do 1760. lov koralja u morima Istre, Dalmacije i Levanta, od 1808. godine dozvole za lov na koralje dobivaju i Zlarinjani. Lovom koralja u Zlarinu godine 1840. bavilo se 12 laa (pet Ëlanova posade), πto je golem broj za tako mali otok, a spominje se da su 1857. ulovili jednu tonu koralja (16 laa). Do 1868. lov koralja bio je iskljuËiva povlastica, nakon Ëega postaje dostupan svim graanima, zbog Ëega zanimanje za nj naglo pada, a tomu je pridonijelo i otkriÊe triju velikih grebena na Siciliji (Sciacca). Ribarsko-koraljarska zadruga djelovala je u Zlarinu u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa i obnavljala se poslije Prvoga svjetskog rata, a lov na crveno zlato 1953. joπ jednom doæivio je procvat s maksimalnih 1.02 tone ulovljenoga blaga. Danas se prikupljaju artefakti i graa za zlarinski muzej koralja, a Zlarinjani noπnjom i priredbom nazvanom IspraÊaj koraljara ljubomorno Ëuvaju πest stoljeÊa staru tradiciju lova i prerade kamenog cvijeta. Na otoku joπ postoje dva aktivna koraljarska obrta, obrauje se ono malo πto se ulovi, a u njihove radionice ljeti obvezno svraÊaju znatiæeljni turisti. ■

ith her verses, the famous poet Vesna Parun loved to return to her native island, Zlarin. In her poem A Coral Returned to the Sea she sings about the red and garnet world / which is neither stone nor shell, neither salt nor vine nor sprout / and yet it lives and grows and can become a hill and an island. The coral processing plant on Zlarin is long gone, but the memory of the stone ﬂower which once shaped the destiny of this small Central Adriatic island still lives. Vesna Parun’s description of coral is spot on. Most of them look like vividly coloured plants with mobile tentacles and a meaty body. Up until the end of the 18th century, not only did nobody know they were animals, they also did not know how important and unique these animals were and that our world would be simply inconceivable without them. Based on their build, the number of tentacles and the number of gastro-vascular partitions, they are divided into two subclasses: Hexacorallia (Zoanthiniaria) and Octocorallia (Alcyonaria). The Octocorallia subclass comprises 6 orders, whose Adriatic representatives are the red dead man’s ﬁngers (Alcyonium palmatum), the gorgonian sea fan (Eunicella cavolinii), the sea pen (Pteroides spinosum) and the red coral (Corallium rubrum) which gave the name to the whole species. When it comes to coral reefs, the largest one is the 150 km long and 2000 km wide Australian CROATIA AIRLINES

Great Barrier Reef, composed of over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands. This reef structure, the largest in the world, is composed of layers of calcium carbonate and built by billions of tiny organisms, known as coral polyps, from the cnidaria family. By separating and using the calcium carbonate from the sea water, these polyps build their outer protective skeleton. Most of the corals which compose the reefs live a symbiotic life with algae which give them energy. The algae need sunlight, which is why their habitats are shallow waters up to 30 metres deep. The symbiotic relationship between algae and corals in the Great Barrier Reef is 20,000 years old, while the age of the present coral reefs is between 6000 and 8000 years. According to Greek mythology, the red coral was actually born from Medusa’s head which Perseus cut off and threw into the sea. Covered by Medusa’s blood, the sea algae turned to stone and became corals. According to the belief of many peoples, corals are divine creatures whose divine origin is reﬂected in their beauty. Their sheltered life in inaccessible depths of the sea has always enveloped them in mystery. According to popular belief, corals have healing properties and protect from evil. In ancient times, they were considered the sacred stone

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of the goddess of love Aphrodite. Old Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used them to decorate the walls of their palaces and vases, and in making jewellery, while the Mediterranean corals were traded for amber from the North Sea. In India, corals are believed to cure rheumatism, arthritis and other diseases. Radiation from corals is linked to the planet Mars which has an impact on bodily temperature, bone marrow and the central nervous system. In the Middle Ages, it was customary to carry pieces of coral on one’s body as an amulet against curses, and today, a newborn baby is often gifted a coral bracelet because corals turn pale when the baby’s temperature goes up which means that corals are an excellent fever alert. However, its main contemporary use is in the jewellery making business where genuine coral from the Adriatic is worth its weight in gold. There is ample evidence that red coral (Corallium rubrum) has been harvested in the Mediterranean since before Roman times, and it is assumed that in the Adriatic the practice started in the south. For centuries, it was harvested by the citizens of Dubrovnik and the islanders of Lastovo and KoloËep, which was reﬂected in the laws of Dubrovnik in the 14th century. Dubrovnik’s tradesmen sent coral harvesters

all the way to the Aegean Sea and as far as the island of Malta. From Dubrovnik, people went on coral harvesting expeditions into the Levant waters, and exported their catch to Italy, France and Arabic lands. They set up associations with local and foreign coral harvesters and thus they probably spread their craft all over the Adriatic. Besides being a notary, the main occupation of the Dubrovnik chancellor Francisco de Archo (1342-1373) was to organize coral harvesting. In the area of Zadar, coral harvesting was organized as early as in the 13th century, and it was organized by the church. Nuns were most prominently involved in organizing coral and pearl harvesting as they used both to decorate priests’ ware. The citizens of Dubrovnik learned very early about how to process them, and one 19th century document alleges that up to the mid-18th century, the main coral harvesting and processing activity was concentrated in Dubrovnik and Naples, and thereafter, coral harvesters from ©ibenik took the lead because the best coral sites in the whole of the Adriatic could be found there. The ©ibenik Archipelago, more precisely, coral harvesters from the island of Zlarin, were mentioned by the prominent Zadar author Giuseppe Sabalich in his tractate from 1907

La Dalmazia nei commerci della Serenissima. Speaking of the trade relations between Dalmatia and the Venice Republic, Sabalich says that the islanders of Zlarin were familiar with coral harvesting even before they came under Venetian authority (1412), which means in the 14th century if not earlier, and says: The islanders of Zlarin harvested a lot of corals and sold it at low prices, which benefited their buyers a hundred per cent. In the same note, he also mentions Æirje, which bears testimony to the fact that some coral beds close to that island were well known to the islanders of Zlarin. In Article 4 of the Regulation on Coral Harvesting around the ©ibenik Islands, which was passed by the sindici inquisitori on 1 May 1749, there is a reference to old coral beds which were open to vessels with special coral harvesting licences. According to old fishermen, the positions of those beds were recorded as early as 1778, while their precise list is obviously a result of the centuries’ long coral harvesting tradition in the ©ibenik Archipelago. Unlike the citizens of Dubrovnik, the locals sold their stone flowers in a raw state achieving relatively low prices for them and even those prices fluctuated largely on the market which made coral harvesting not only hard but also anything but a lucrative trade. Consequently, coral harvesting was a

rather inconspicuous branch of the economy in the ©ibenik area. For example, the humanist Juraj ©iægoriÊ, who in 1487 recorded very precisely all the types of fish, including the highest quality species which abounded in the sea around ©ibenik, did not say anything about corals when he mentioned the islands of Zlarin and Æirje. It is hard to say why. Was it because long before that, from the time of Plinius to ©iægoriÊ’s era and for a while longer corals were considered plants and not animals so ©iægoriÊ did not think that they should have a place in a discussion on fish, or because of the fact that corals were not very marketable at the time? In his time, coral harvesting had numerous opponents because coral fishing was considered detrimental for sardine habitats. Fishermen even asked for a complete ban to be placed on coral harvesting. Such divergent views obviously left traces in written documents once the Venetians took over and more intense harvesting and exploitation of this treasure from the depths of the sea started. Coral trade got off the ground after the arrival of the Venetians, and the Venetians enjoyed certain favours when it came to concession rights. Foreign concessionaires initially bought corals from local fishermen and only later started

appearing as coral harvest organizers. This is evident from the writings of Palladio Fosca who in his work De situ orae Illyrici published in 1515 noted the following: At a distance of 12 miles from Murter is the island of Æirje, famous for its vineyards. There are remains of an old fortress on the island which was where Venetian merchants purchased corals a few years ago. The corals were sold by local ﬁshermen who came from an area of several miles around the

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island, including the islands of PrviÊ and Zlarin where large quantities are harvested. This confirms Sabalich’s claims about the islanders of Zlarin having been skilful coral harvesters even before the Venetians took over, but it also points to the conclusion that very soon after that, local fishermen would be forced to show the Venetians where the best harvesting grounds were and then the latter used the force of Venetian authority and became the undisputed rulers of coral harvesting and trade. All over the Mediterranean, the 16th century was important for harvesting corals. Under the rule of Charles IX of France (1560-1574), two merchants in Marseilles got a harvesting licence for the coast of Algiers. Inspired by that example, Venice started developing harvesting practices in the seas of Schiavonia ∑ the land of slaves, as the Venetians used to call Dalmatia at the time. The Venetians considered coral harvesting a new branch of economy and offered incentives to all those who wanted to engage in it. It was free of charge, and only one tenth of the harvest had to be paid in respect of the tax. The first local coral harvester was from ©ibenik. His name was Mihajlo Sinkovic. He obtained his harvesting and processing licence in 1687. Another citizen of ©ibenik, I. Battista Galbiani, got a concession on harvesting corals in the waters of Istria, Dalmatia and Levant for the period from 1754 to 1760. As of 1808, the islanders of Zlarin also applied for and obtained coral harvesting licences. In 1840, there were 12 coral harvesting vessels with five member crews, which is a huge number for such a small island, and it is alleged that in 1857, 16 vessels harvested a ton of corals. Up to 1868, coral harvesting was an exclusive privilege, but thereafter, it became accessible to everybody. Interest dwindled after that, and the situation was compounded by the discovery of three large coral reefs in Sicily (Sciacca). A fishing and coral harvesting association was active on Zlarin at the beginning of the 20th century and renewed its activities after WWI. The hunt for the red gold again flourished and peaked in 1953 when the all-time maximum of 1.02 tons of this treasure was harvested. Artefacts and holdings are being collected for a coral museum on the island of Zlarin, while islanders dressed in folk costumes stage the Farewell to Coral Harvesters ceremony to jealously guard the six centuries’ old tradition of harvesting and processing the stone flower. There are still two active coral processing workshops on the island where craftsmen process the little quantities of coral that are harvested. Their workshops are a must-visit for curious tourists who come to Zlarin in the summer. ■ 72

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bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica

Coordinates: 16.11907, 46.00427

Hidden oasis of beauty in the heartland of Croatia... High-end quality accommodation and culinary experience: boutique hotel concept (luxury rooms, exclusive hotel restaurants, internationally renowned chef, wine cellar, wellness & spa, conference facilities...) Marija Bistrica • famous Marian Shrine for pilgrims • Croatian Chateau Experience: Ethno Homesteads & Old Craft Workshops • Attractions (medieval castles from the Habsburg era, Neandertalland excavation site and a museum) • Wine roads, meadow biking

tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj

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■ TRADICIJA TRADITION

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Piše/By Darko Pavičić Fotograﬁje/Photos Romeo IbriševiÊ

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Danas grkokatolici u Hrvatskoj svjedoËe jedinstvo u razliËitosti. Oni u svojim bogosluæjima Ëuvaju ono πto je resilo Crkvu prvih stoljeÊa. Izmeu rimokatolika i grkokatolika, osobito meu klerom, vlada velika sloga i poπtivanje. Grkokatolici æele biti most izmeu katolika.

Today, the Croatian Greek Catholics bear witness to unity in difference. In their liturgy, they safeguard what adorned the Church during the ﬁrst centuries of its existence. There is an exceptional accord and respect for each other among the Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics, especially among the clergy. The Greek Catholics, wish to be ﬁrst and foremost a bridge between Catholics. CROATIA AIRLINES

remda im je liturgija poput one u pravoslavnim crkvama, jer sluæe se staroslavenskim jezikom, oni nisu pravoslavci. Takoer, premda se kriæaju s tri prsta, kao πto to Ëine vjernici pravoslavnih crkava, oni ne pripadaju pravoslavnom crkvenom korpusu. Oni su katolici, i to ∑ grkokatolici. Dakle, katolici koji u ime trojedinog Boga (kao i daleki hrvatski preci) Ëine znak kriæa skupivπi tri prsta desne ruke, i to: u ime Oca, i Sina, i Duha Svetoga. I joπ neπto ∑ njihovi sveÊenici imaju supruge! Pritom se pogrešno govori da se grkokatoliËki sveÊenici æene, πto nije toËno, jer su oni, doduπe, oæenjeni, tj. æive u braku sa svojim suprugama, ali vjenËavaju se prije svoga reenja, pa sveti red primaju kao veÊ oæenjeni muπkarci. Ako to ne uËine prije reenja, zamonaπit Êe se i viπe se vjenËati neÊe moÊi. No, tada imaju πanse postati npr. biskupom

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ili vladikom, jer biskup ne smije biti æenjen. ToËnije, prema crkvenoj disciplini istoËnih crkava (i katoliËkih i pravoslavnih) ne moæe se æeniti. Svaki sveÊeniËki kandidat mora pohaati bogoslovni fakultet i diplomirati. Za vrijeme svoga studija (πest godina) on se slobodno odluËuje hoÊe li se æeniti ili Êe ostati neæenja. Onaj tko se odluËi za æenidbu, sklapa brak sa svojom odabranicom prije nego što Êe ga njegov biskup rukopoloæiti (zarediti) za akona, dakle æeni se kao laik. Onaj pak tko slobodno izabere beæenstvo (celibat), ne moæe se poslije kao zareeni sveÊenik æeniti. Ako po svojoj ljudskoj slabosti na tom putu iz bilo kojih razloga ne izdræi, onda ga Crkva liπava sluæbe. Takav mora traæiti neko drugo zanimanje. Ako se æeli crkveno vjenËati, mora preko svoga biskupa zamoliti Svetu Stolicu da ga se svede u laiËki staleæ. IstoËne katoliËke crkve, ulazeÊi u crkveno zajedniπtvo,

ljubomorno su Ëuvale i saËuvale tu disciplinu iz prvih stoljeÊa krπÊanstva. I kad se govori o tome da li u KatoliËkoj crkvi ima oæenjenih sveÊenika, onda treba reÊi: da, ima ih ∑ onih u istoËnim katoliËkim crkvama. Velika veÊina sveÊenika KriæevaËke biskupije æivi u braku, i to skladnom braku. Meu nevidljivim razlikama rimokatolika i grkokatolika jest i razlika priËesnog kruha. Rimokatolici slave euharistiju beskvasnim, a grkokatolici kvasnim kruhom. U oba sluËaja to je pravi, peËeni pπeniËni kruh; u oba sluËaja on se pretvara u pravo Tijelo Kristovo, πto izriËito priznaje i vrhovni uËitelj vjere, rimski papa. Na Istoku kroz sva stoljeÊa saËuvao se starodrevni obiËaj da se svi vjernici, a ne samo sveÊenik, priËeπÊuju pod prilikama kruha i vina. Na Zapadu se uveo obiËaj da se vjernicima u priËesti daje samo Tijelo Kristovo pod prilikom kruha, a Krv Kristovu

pod prilikama vina uzimaju samo sveÊenici. ∑ Iz povijesti Crkve poznato je da su se u njoj tijekom proπlih 20 stoljeÊa, nerijetko pod utjecajem politiËkih i kulturoloπkih Ëimbenika, umnoæili stanoviti dogmatski nesporazumi, koji su uzrokovali manje ili veÊe lomove, raskole, tako da danas viπe nemamo jednu Crkvu kakvu je osnovao Isus Krist, koji je Glava Crkve, nego viπe razliËitih krπÊanskih crkava i krπÊanskih zajednica. NajveÊi lom dogodio se u poËetku 11. stoljeÊa izmeu Istoka i Zapada, izmeu Carigrada i Rima. Poslije je bilo viπe pokuπaja da se ponovno uspostavi prvotno zajedniπtvo. Rezultat tih pokuπaja jesu krπÊani katolici koji se danas nazivaju grkokatolicima. U povijesti te pokuπaje zajedniπtva joπ nazivamo unije. U Hrvatskoj ta se unija dogodila 1611. godine, kada je pravoslavni vladika Simeon Vratanja, koji je imao svoje duhovno sjediπte u MarËi, nedaleko od IvaniÊ Grada, i pod Ëiju su jurisdikciju pripadali svi Vlasi, krπÊani istoËnoga obreda u Hrvatskoj, od Drave na sjeveru pa do Jadranskoga mora na jugu, poπao u Rim i s Petrovim nasljednikom papom Pavlom V. sklopio jedinstvo. U to zajedniπtvo tada su uπli i æumberaËki uskoci, koji su jedini ostali vjerni Svetoj Stolici, i oni su jedini baπtinici MarËanske unije. Godine 2011., mi Hrvati grkokatolici, u zajedniπtvu s drugim grkokatolicima u Hrvatskoj, proslavili smo svoj veliki jubilej ∑ 400 godina crkvenoga zajedniπtva u Hrvatskoj ∑ tumaËi kriæevaËki episkop Nikola KekiÊ. Najviπe grkokatolika danas ima u Ukrajini (i to u zapadnoj Ukrajini), koja je stoljeÊima bila u sastavu Austro-Ugarske Monarhije: ima ih viπe od pet milijuna, a nekoliko stotina tisuÊa grkokatolika æivi u SlovaËkoj, Maarskoj i

Rumunjskoj te u Americi, Kanadi i Australiji. Na zapadu, tj. u zapadnom krilu KatoliËke crk ve, na grkokatolike gledaju izra zito pozitivno. Tako zapadna Crkva misli da bi upravo grkokatolici mogli biti most prema zajedniπtvu i ujedinjenju crkava. ∑ Grkokatolici bi htjeli biti taj most, ali pokojni moskovski pravoslavni patrijarh Aleksej smatrao je da su ukrajinski grkokatolici najveÊa zapreka uspostavi jedinstva. Kao uvjet da rimski papa doe u Rusiju traæio je nemoguÊe ∑ da se grkokatolici vrate u pravoslavlje. Mi grkokatolici imamo svoju stoljetnu povijest i u krilu jedne, svete, KatoliËke i apostolske crkve osjeÊamo se sasvim dobro. Jest da je u povijesti bilo pokuπaja da nas se porimokatoliËi, to jest da napustimo svoju bogatu duhovnu istoËnu baπtinu, ali nismo se dali. Mi smo ponosni na svoj istoËni, bizantskoslavenski obred, i na svoju katoliËku vjeru. Mi grkokatolici æelimo biti prije svega most izmeu katolika, most izmeu grkokatolika i rimokatolika. Stoga smatram bitnim da se na ovim naπim prostorima mi katolici bolje upoznamo. Da svaki rimokatolik zna kad Ëuje za grkokatolika da je to katolik, kako i sama rijeË kaæe, grËkoga obreda, bolje reËeno bizantskog, bizantsko-slavenskog, bizantskohrvatskog obreda. To je naπa glavna zadaÊa: i sveÊenika i vjerouËitelja i svakoga krπÊanina katolika. Rimokatolici neka preko nas grkokatolika, ako to æele, upoznaju krπÊanski Istok i naπu zajedniËku duhovnu baπtinu, jer ta i takva baπtina nadilazi naπe podjele ∑ kaæe grkokatoliËki vladika, Ëija jurisdikcija seæe preko granica Hrvatske, a vjernici su hrvatske, rusinske, ukrajinske nacionalnosti. Izmeu rimokatolika i grkokatolika, osobito meu klerom, vlada velika sloga i poπtivanje.

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Tako, primjerice, grkokatoliËki sveÊenik moæe uvijek susluæiti (koncelebrirati) s rimokatoliËkim sveÊenikom i obratno. Ali da bi grkokatoliËki sveÊenik sam sluæio misu po rimskom obredu za Boæji narod, mora za to imati dozvolu Kongregacije za istoËne crkve. Ta se dozvola daje na nekoliko godina i zove se biritualizam. ∑ Danas grkokatolici u Hr vatskoj svjedoËe jedinstvo u razliËitosti. Oni u svojim bogosluæjima Ëuvaju ono πto je resilo Crkvu prvih stoljeÊa. Kriæaju se poput prvih krπÊana, sklapajuÊi zajedno tri prsta na desnici (palac, kaæiprst i srednjak) i tako se kriæaju pokazujuÊi naizvan svoju vjeru u najveÊu istinu naπe vjere, a to je Sveta Trojica, zajedniπtvo Oca i Sina i Svetoga Duha, jedan Bog, a tri osobe u Bogu. SklapajuÊi pritom i prstenjak i mali prst uz dlan, æele upozoriti na druge dvije istine: druga boæanska osoba, Sin Boæji, utjelovio se pod srcem Djevice Marije i tako postao Ëovjekom. Uz vjeËnu boæansku narav, preuzeo je u vremenu i ovu naπu ljudsku narav, da bi za nas mogao trpjeti i otkupiti nas. I sva naπa bogosluæja protkana su Svetom Trojicom. U podjeljivanju svetih 82

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tajni (sakramenata) dræimo se prakse prve Crkve: poslije krπtenja odmah se dijeli i sveta tajna miropomazanja (krizme). Vjernici se uvijek priËeπÊuju tijelom i krvlju Isusa Krista. Liturgija i druga brojna bogosluæja sva su protkana vjerskim istinama. SluæeÊi liturgiju, sveÊenik je okrenut prema svetohraniπtu, u kojemu se Ëuvaju posveÊene Ëestice Tijela Kristova. Krist je uvijek centar i svi mi u crkvi okrenuti smo prema njemu, i sveÊenik koji predmoli i ærtvuje, i narod zajedno s njime kao kraljevsko sveÊenstvo. Na oltaru ispred svetohraniπta uvijek stoji knjiga Evanelja da bi nas podsjetila da je RijeË tijelom postala i da prebiva meu nama ∑ tumaËi vladika KekiÊ. KriæevaËka eparhija ili biskupija sastavnica je KatoliËke crkve u Hrvatskoj. Ona je od 1852. i u sastavu nekoÊ Hrvatsko-slavonske crkvene pokrajine, danas ZagrebaËke crkvene pokrajine ili ZagrebaËke metropolije. Jurisdikcija kriæevaËkog biskupa proteæe se na sve grkokatolike koji æive u Hrvatskoj, Bosni i Hercegovini i u Sloveniji, a nedugo nakon πto je postao biskupom, mons. KekiÊ podijelio ju je zbog pastoralnih razloga na

ÆumberaËki vikarijat, Slavonsko-srijemski vikarijat i na GrkokatoliËki vikarijat u Bosni i Hercegovini. Biskupija ima 40 æupa, s oko 24.000 vjernika. KriæevaËka biskupija u GrkokatoliËkom sjemeniπtu ima Ëetiri bogoslova, koji pohaaju studij na Filozofsko-teoloπkom institutu Druæbe Isusove u Zagrebu. A u sklopu biskupije djeluju i Ëasne sestre bazilijanke. Kako bi netko, kada doe na liturgiju, znao sluæi li je grkokatoliËki ili pravoslavni sveÊenik, neka poËuje molitve u kojima se moli za crkvenu hijerarhiju. Grkokatolici mole za papu rimskoga (spominju ga Ëak pet puta, rimokatolici spominju samo jedanput), a pravoslavni mole za svoga patrijarha i nadleænog episkopa. Grkokatolici i rimokatolici, i jedni i drugi, katolici su, πto jasno proizlazi i iz samoga naziva. I jednima i drugima vrhovni pastir na zemlji jest papa, rimski biskup. On je simbol i jamac tog zajedniπtva. Onaj tko je u zajedniπtvu s rimskim prvosveÊenikom, katolik je. Katolici bilo kojega obreda imaju zajedniËku baπtinu: iste vjerske istine, isti ustav (deset Boæjih zapovijedi), isti izvor Boæje milosti (sedam svetih tajni ili sakramenata). Grkokatolici

su, kao i pravoslavni (u veÊini slavenskih naroda), baπtinici istoga bizantskog obreda, s time da svaka samostalna crkva ima neke posebnosti. ∑ Pravoslavni obred ne postoji, nego postoje razne pravoslavne crkve koje se u svojim bogosluæjima sluæe raznim obredima. U pravoslavnim se crkvama u slavenskim zemljama, u GrËkoj, te u joπ nekim zemljama koje baπtine bizantski obred, veÊi dio godine sluæi Liturgija sv. Ivana Zlatoustoga, a deset puta godiπnje Liturgija sv. Bazilija Velikoga, a u Svetoj Ëetrdesetnici kroz tjedan (osim subote i nedjelje) sluæi se Liturgija pretposveÊenih darova. Te liturgije nastale su dok je Crkva bila jedinstvena. Prema tome, i jedni i drugi sluæimo ta bogosluæja uz male inaËice ∑ tumaËi vladika kriæevaËki Nikola KekiÊ, a papa Ivan Pavao II. rekao je kako je obraÊenje potrebno latinskoj Crkvi da potpuno poπtuje i vrednuje dostojanstvo IstoËnjaka i sa zahvalnoπÊu prihvati duhovna blaga kojih su IstoËne katoliËke crkve nositeljice na korist cijeloga katoliËkog zajedniπtva; na taj naËin Crkva Rima neka konkretno pokaæe, mnogo viπe nego u proπlosti, kako poπtuje, kako se divi krπÊanskom Istoku i kako smatra bitnim njegov doprinos za potpuno æivljenu univerzalnost Crkve. ■

lthough their liturgy is the same as the Orthodox Church liturgy, because it is sung in the same Old Slavic language, they are not Orthodox. Also, although they cross themselves with three ﬁngers, just like the Orthodox worshipers, they do not belong to the Orthodox religious corps. They are Catholics, Greek Catholics to be more precise. Thus, the Catholics who worship the divine Trinity (just like their distant Croatian ancestors) and make the sign of the cross by putting three ﬁngers of the right hand together in the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit. One more thing ∑ their priests have wives! In that, it is mistakenly said that Greek Catholic priests get married. This is not true, because, although married and living in matrimony with their wives, they actually get married before they become ordained, and they are ordained to the priesthood as married men. If they do not get married before they are ordained, they become part of the monastic clergy and they are not able to get married thereafter. But then, they stand the chance of becoming bishops, for example, because a bishop must not be married. More precisely, according to the church discipline of the eastern churches (both Catholic and Orthodox) they cannot get married. Every candidate for the priesthood

has to attend a theological faculty and graduate from it. During their studies (six years) they have to decide whether they want to get married or stay celibate. Those who decide to get married will wed their bride before their bishop ordains them to the diaconate (lying on of hands), i.e. they get married as laymen. Those who freely decide to stay celibate cannot marry later as ordained priests. If they falter on that way for any reason, due to their human weakness, the Church will disordain them and they have to seek another profession. If they wish to be married in church, they have to appeal to their bishop to seek approval from the Holy Sea to be introduced to the laymen’s class. When they entered unity, the Eastern Catholic churches jealously safeguarded and preserved that discipline which dates back to the ﬁrst centuries of Christianity. And when there is a discussion on whether there are married priests in the Catholic Church, the answer is yes, there are those in the Eastern Catholic churches. A majority of the priests of the Kriæevci Eparchy live in harmonious marriages. Communal bread is yet another one among the intangible differences between the Roman Catholic and the Greek Catholic Churches. Roman Catholics use unleavened bread for the Eucharist, while Greek Catholics use leavened bread. In both cases it is real wheat bread, and in both cases it turns into the real body of Christ, which is expressly recognized by the supreme teacher of faith, the Roman Pope. In the East, throughout all these centuries, the ancient custom has been preserved so that all church-goers, and not only the priest, celebrate the Eucharist in the form of bread and wine. In the West, the custom was introduced according to which communicants receive only the Body of Christ in the form of bread, while the Blood of Christ in the form of wine is received only by priests. ∑ It is known from the history of the Church that during the past 20 centuries, more often than not, under the inﬂuence of political factors or cultural circumstances, certain dogmatic misunderstandings have developed and caused minor or major fractures and schisms, so that today we do not have just one church, the one which was founded by Jesus Christ who is the Head of the Church, but rather several different Christian churches and Christian communities. The biggest schism occurred in the early 11th century, between the East and the West, between Istanbul and Rome. Thereafter, there were several attempts to reinstate the original unity. As result of those attempts there are

Christian Catholics who are now called Greek Catholics. Such historical attempts at unification were called unions. In Croatia, such an union occurred in 1611, when the Orthodox Bishop Simeon Vratanja, whose spiritual seat was in MarËa, not far from IvaniÊ Grad and who had authority over all the Vlachs, Christians of the Eastern rite in Croatia, from the Drava River in the North to the Adriatic Sea in the South, went to Rome and forged unity with Peter’s successor, Pope Paul V. At the time, Uskoks from Æumberak also joined the unity, and today are the only ones who have remained loyal to the Holy See and the only successors of the MarËa unity. In 2011, we the Croat Greek Catholics the other Greek Catholics in Croatia joined together to celebrate our big jubilee ∑ 400 years of church unity in Croatia, says the Bishop of Kriæevci Nikola KekiÊ. Today, the highest number of Greek Catholics live in Ukraine (in West Ukraine more precisely) which was part of the AustroHungarian Monarchy for centuries. There are over five million of them there, while several hundred thousand live in Slovakia, Hungary and Romania and also in America, Canada and Australia. In the West, i.e. in the western wing of the Catholic Church, Greek Catholics are regarded very positively. The western Church believes that the Greek Catholics could serve as a stepping stone towards the unity and unification of the churches. ∑ Greek Catholics would like to be that bridge, but Aleksej, the late Orthodox Patriarch of Moscow, believed that the Ukrainian Greek Catholics were the biggest obstacle to unity. His condition for allowing the Pope to come to Russia was for the Greek Catholics to return to the Orthodox faith. We, the Greek Catholics have our own centuries’ old history and we feel quite comfortable in the fold of the holy Catholic apostolic church. The truth is that in the past, there have been attempts to convert us into Roman Catholics, whereby we would have had to relinquish our rich spiritual eastern heritage, but we have resisted those attempts. We are proud of our eastern, Byzantine Slavic rite and our Catholic faith. We, the Greek Catholics, wish to be first and foremost a bridge between Catholics, between the Greek Catholics and the Roman Catholics. That is why I find it important that we, the Catholics who reside in the area, should know each other better. Every Roman Catholic who hears of a Greek Catholic should know that that person is a Catholic, as the name has it, of the Greek rite, better say of the Byzantine, Byzantine-Slavic, Byzantine-Croatian rite. This is the main task CROATIA AIRLINES

of our priests, religious education teachers and every Christian Catholic. If they so wish, the Roman Catholics can learn through us about the Christian East and our common spiritual heritage because that heritage prevails over our divisions, says the Greek Catholic Bishop whose jurisdiction extends beyond the Croatian borders and whose followers belong to the Croatian, Ruthenian and Ukrainian nations. There is an exceptional accord and respect for each other among the Roman Catholics and Greek Catholics, especially among the clergy. For example, a Greek Catholic priest can concelebrate with a Roman Catholic priest and vice versa. However, if a Greek Catholic priest wishes to celebrate the liturgy according to the Roman rite for God’s

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people, he has to have approval for that from the Congregation of the Eastern Church. This privilege is valid for several years and it is known as biritualism. ∑ Today, the Croatian Greek Catholics bear witness to unity in difference. In their liturgy, they safeguard what adorned the Church during the fi rst centuries of its existence. They make the sign of the cross like the fi rst Christians, by bringing together the three fingers on their right hand (the thumb, index and middle fi nger) and with that gesture they proclaim to the world their belief in the biggest truth of our religion, and that is the Blessed Trinity, the oneness of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit, one God and three divine persons in one God. At the same time, by keeping the other two fi ngers, the ring fi nger and the little fi nger, pressed together and touching the palm they indicate the other two truths: the second divine person, the Son of God, became incarnate under the heart of Virgin Mary and thus became a man. While being eternally divine, he also became human in order to suffer for us and redeem us. In all of our liturgies we worship the Holy Trinity. When administering the holy sacraments, we adhere to the practice of the first Church. Immediately after baptism, we administer the holy sacrament of Confirmation (Chrism). The worshipers always receive the body and blood of Christ during Holy Communion. The liturgy and many other holy services are full of religious truths. During the Liturgy the priest always faces the tabernacle where the Eucharist is reserved. Jesus Christ is always at the centre, and all of us in the church face him, the priest who leads the prayer and makes the sacrifi ce along with the people as the royal clergy. The Book of Gospels is always at the altar in front of the tabernacle to remind us that the Word has become body and that it dwells among us, explains Bishop KekiÊ. The Kriæevci Eparchy or Diocese is part of the Catholic Church in Croatia. Since 1852, it has been part of the former Croatian ∑ Slavonian Church Region which is today the Zagreb Church Region or Metropolitanate. The jurisdiction of the Bishop of Kriæevci extends to all the Greek Catholics who live in Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Slovenia. Not long after he became Bishop, for pastoral reasons, Monsignor KekiÊ divided it into the vicariate of Æumberak, the vicariate of Slavonia and Srijem and the Greek Catholic vicariate in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Eparchy has 40 parishes with approximately 24,000 believers.

The Kriæevci Eparchy has four priest candidates in the Greek Catholic seminary who attend studies at the Societas Jesu (Druæba Isusova) Institute of Philosophy and Theology in Zagreb. Basilian nuns are also active within the Eparchy. If somebody came to a liturgy and wished to know whether it was celebrated by a Greek Catholic or an Orthodox priest, they should listen to the prayers in which the priest prays for the church hierarchy. Greek Catholics pray for the Pope of Rome (they mention him as many as five times, whereas Roman Catholics mention him but once); Orthodox priests pray for their patriarch and the relevant episcopus. Both Greek Catholics and Roman Catholics are Catholics, which is quite evident from their names. The Pope, the Bishop of Rome, is the chief shepherd on earth for both these groups. He is the symbol and guarantor of their unity. If one is in unity with the supreme priest of Rome, they are Catholics. Catholics of any rite share a common heritage, common religious beliefs, the same constitution (the Ten Commandments) and the same source of God’s mercy (the seven sacraments). Greek Catholics, just as the Christians of Orthodox faith (in a majority of the Slavic peoples) are the inheritors of the same Byzantine rite, but each of the independent churches has its idiosyncrasies. ∑ There is no Orthodox rite as such; there are various Orthodox churches which use various rites in their liturgies. In the Orthodox churches in Slavic countries, in Greece and in some other countries which have inherited the Byzantine rite, the most common Eucharistic liturgy is the Liturgy of St. John Chrysostom. The Divine Liturgy of St. Basil the Great is nowadays used only ten times a year. The Devine Liturgy of Presanctified Gifts is used on the weekdays during Lent. These liturgies were created while the Church was still united. Therefore, we both use the same liturgical services with slight alterations, explains the Bishop of Kriæevci, Nikola KekiÊ. And finally, to quote Pope John Paul II, who said that conversion is also required of the Latin Church, that she may respect and fully appreciate the dignity of Eastern Christians, and accept gratefully the spiritual treasures of which the Eastern Catholic Churches are the bearers, to the benefit of the entire Catholic communion that she may show concretely, far more than in the past, how much she esteems and admires the Christian East and how essential she considers its contribution to the full realization of the Church’s universality. ■

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE ■

Hrabrost je vrlina u kojoj dobrota nikad ne strahuje. W. Shakespeare, Mjera za mjeru, Ëin III, scena I Virtue is bold, and goodness never fearful. W. Shakespeare, Measure for Measure. Act III, Scene I

ukovar je rijedak biser urbane slikovitosti drevnoga ozraËja. U njegovim krajolicima, na krajnjem istoku Hrvatske, dodiruje se mir zelenih ravnica i nebeski svod zrcaljen u toku Vuke i Dunava, rijeka koje se na ovom prostoru ujedinjuju u dug dunavski slijev. Stigavπi u to osobito okruæje, ugledah plavi tok Dunava te se u trenu sjetih novogodiπnjih koncerata iz beËkog Musikvereina i sadræajnog bogatstva jednoga od najpoznatijih valcera Johanna Straussa mlaeg. Prisjetih se i mnogih rijeka koje sam do tada upoznao. Bile one bistre, zelene ili poslije kiπe smee, do posjeta Vukovaru, plavetnu joπ ne vidjeh. Toga dana dunavski slijev bio je pun osobite modrine, ispunjen æivim i djelatnim energijama odluËnih u stremljenju prema dubinama mora s kojim se u konaËnici stapa. Grad Vukovar stasao je na uπÊu dviju rijeka, a svoju drevnu naseljenost datira joπ od petog tisuÊljeÊa prije Krista. Joπ je u prapovijesno doba taj urbani prostor, samo pet kilometara nizvodno, pulsirao jednim æivotnim srediπtem s mnogobrojnim stanovnicima. O VuËedolu je rijeË, znaËajanom arheoloπkom lokalitetu Ëija bogata nalaziπta datiraju joπ iz neolitika. U poËetku 20. stoljeÊa u njemu je otkriven i znaËajan arheoloπki nalaz velike ljepote i vrijednosti: VuËedolska golubica, keramiËka posuda, kadionica, koja je postala jedan od

najprepoznatljivijih simbola danaπnjega grada. Smjestivπi se na razmei Slavonije i Srijema, Vukovar, grad koji je dobio ime po rijeci Vuki, posjeduje istaknut poloæaj u krajoliku. Cijeli mu je krajobraz ispunjen eteriËnim titrajem prirodnih osobitosti koje izraæavaju dubinu Jednote iz koje je stvoren. Joπ od antiËkih vremena smjeπten je na trasi podunavskog puta, povrh uπÊa dviju rijeka. Upravo ta uzviπenost omoguÊila mu je prirodnu obranu, a πumovito i plodno zalee æivot s poljodjelstvom, lovom i ribolovom. Ovo je kraj bogate povijesti, poloæen na crti razdjelnici zapada i istoka, na graniËnoj liniji civilizacija, kultura i religija. Joπ u poËetku 13. stoljeÊa Vukovar je bio prvi meu hrvatskim gradovima koji je dobio status slobodnoga kraljevskoga grada. Srednjovjekovna mu povijest zavrπava u poËetku 16. stoljeÊa kada pada pod tursko carstvo Sulejmana VeliËanstvenog. Nakon 161 godine turske vladavine, oslobaa ga general grof Aspremont predajuÊi ga u novouspostavljenu vlast Dvorske komore preko upravitelja. Kralj Karlo VI. godine 1728. vukovarski posjed s mnogim selima daruje svom grofu von Kueffsteinu, koji ga samo koju godinu poslije prodaje Filipu Karlu grofu Eltzu, nadbiskupu i knezu iz Mainza, visokom ugledniku Ëiji potomci i danas æive u NjemaËkoj. S poËetkom 18.stoljeÊa poËinje povijest vukovarskog posjeda s dvorcem grofova Eltz,

Piše/By Goran Stojanović Fotograﬁje/Photos Saša Pjanić

Dvorac Eltz u Vukovaru kao kakav svjetlosni vitez, zagledan u Dunav, dostojno iskazuje svoju misiju odvaænosti u kojoj je iz pepela ponovno roen. U tom uzletu æivotnosti saËuvao je svoj sanctum sanctorum, izvornost i svjedoËanstvo vlastitog nadahnuÊa, iz Ëije je snage temeljno obnovljen. Eltz Manor in Vukovar is like a knight in shining armour with its eyes trained on the Danube; it bears digniﬁed testimony to the mission it courageously accomplished when it was reborn from the ashes. During its ascent to vitality it has preserved its sanctum sanctorum, originality and proof of its own inspiration which was the force behind its total renovation. CROATIA AIRLINES

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koji su ga u 208 godina svog vlastelinstva, sve do 1945. kada su im dvorac i posjed oduzeti, gospodarski snaæno razvijali preko vinogradarstva, pËelarstva, poljodjelstva i svilarstva. Od samog poËetka, posjed Eltzovih u Vukovaru bio je povjerbinski i nije se smio otuivati ni dijeliti, nego ga je redom nasljeivao najstariji sin. Na tako pomno razvijenom vlastelinstvu s vremenom nastaju i prve manufakture u Slavoniji. Grade se parni mlinovi, podiæe proizvodnja vrhunskih vina, utemeljuje ergela lipicanaca i nonijusa. Njihov dvorac bio je i ostao jedan od najsnaænijih dominanti Vukovara, sagraen u glavnoj ulici, postupno je nastajao kroz etapne dogradnje uz mnoge graditeljske mijene i razvoj stilova. U svom izvornom obliku primarno je sagraen kao jednostavni ranoklasicistiËki dvor, razvijajuÊi se od skromne kurije do reprezentativnog dvorca srednjoeuropskog izgleda. Nakon πto su kupili vukovarsko vlastelinstvo, grofovi Eltz samo su povremeno u njemu boravili. U izvornom obliku dvorac je bio sagraen u samo dvije godine, od 1749. do 1751., kao jednostavni ranoklasicistiËki jednokatni i skroman dvor. S jaËanjem vlastelinstva, objekt dvorca razvijao se s mnogobrojnim nadogradnjama, pregradnjama i dotjerivanjima, sve do ureenja njegova raskoπnog neobaroknog proËelja, koje je izveo beËki arhitekt Viktor Sidek, u doba kasnog historicizma 1907. godine. Tada je nadograen i srediπnji dio dvorca s rizalitetom i tri razine, s nizom pomoÊnih i gospodarskih zgrada, pa je cijeli objekt postao znatno raskoπniji, sveËaniji, dostojan svoje namjene. Dvorci, kao i ljudi, æive svoje æivote, uspone i padove, razvijaju se, dograuju, sadræajno obogaÊuju, slijedeÊi vlastito iskustvo, spoznaju i sluh. Oni, kao svjedoci vremena, sa sveænjem svojih dokaza i svjedoËanstava iskazuju kontrapunkt poduhvata koje su pokuπali ili uspjeli realizirati. Stoga svaku priËu o nekom dvorcu ne bi valjalo Ëitati kao dopunu znanja o svijetu u kojemu se æivi, nego kao i neku pjesmu s pripjevom koji Êe svaki od Ëitatelja sebi izabrati. Na prostoru ne veÊemu od tri hektara, u novom, baroknom dijelu grada, dvorac grofova Eltz æivio je kao cjelina koju su tvorili: glavna zgrada okrenuta jugozapadnim proËeljem prema ulici, a sjeveroistoËnim prema dunavskom perivoju, uza skupinu vrlo lijepih i skladno oblikovanih gospodarskih i pomoÊnih zgrada πto se naslanjaju na dvorac te su ambijentalno i arhitektonski njegov nedjeljiv dio. Nasuprot gospodarskim zgradama sagraena je kapela sv. Roka, koja nikada nije bila dvorska, ali skladno se uklopila u njegovu cjelinu.

ProËelje uliËne strane dvorca Eltz nikada sadræajno nije odavalo puninu æivota plemiÊke obitelji, a dvoriπni dio s nekadaπnjim perivojem prema Dunavu vrvio je æivotom i zbivanjima, pa je oko njega i uz njega sve bilo posve drugaËije, punije i æivlje. Bio je to arhitektonski izazov za podizanje ambijentalnog i sadræajnog rjeπenja za obiteljsku intimu i javna zbivanja πto ih æeli imati svaki dvor ili veÊe rezidencijalno plemiÊko zdanje. Tako su i svi glavni saloni u dvorcu bili okrenuti prema perivoju, a stubiπta su bila poloæena uz uliËno proËelje, u srediπte njegova tlocrta. Svaki dvorac, kao i Ëovjek, moæe govoriti o svojoj duhovnosti ili tjelesnosti. Ti povijesni prostori i danas mogu iskazivati magiju svog zvuka i tiπine, otkriÊa, snage ili slabosti, ovisno o tome kako se i koliko dugo u njima æivjelo. Na zaravni izmeu dvorca i Dunava nalazio se perivoj, koji zbog nevelikoga gradskog poloæaja nije pruæao moguÊnost πirenja vlastelinskog sklopa. Za taj pejsaænoparkovni prostor nije naen detaljno izraen plan, nego se iz obojenih crteæa vlastelinskoga geometra Gabrijela Horema iz 1817. godine moæe naslutiti kako je izgledao; s livadom s krivudavim stazama u sredini te gustim gajem uokolo nje. Grofovi Eltz poslije su sagradili i objekt Oranæerije u kojem su zimi pohranjivali osjetljive biljke iz dvorca i perivoja. U tom objektu danas je smjeπten jedan od galerijskih prostora Gradskog muzeja Vukovara, koji je i danas saËuvao naziv toga gospodarskog objekta. Od poËetka upravljanja vukovarskim vlastelinstvom plemstvo Eltzovih primjereno je razvijalo posjed zajedno s gradom, koji je danas najveÊa rijeËna luka u Hrvatskoj. Od grofa Filipa Karla, do grofa Jakoba III. Eltza, koji je do Drugoga svjetskog rata i kao posljednji Ëlan plemiÊke obitelji æivio u Vukovaru, u dvorcu je æivjelo mnogo njihovih naraπtaja. Od zavrπetka Drugoga svjetskog rata dvorac je ostao gotovo nepromijenjen. U Domovinskom ratu 1991. godine dvorac je zbog agresije jugoslavenske vojske najveÊim dijelom posve razoren pa je njegova temeljna obnova, nakon ostvarene slobode, od 1997.do 2012. godine poprimila razmjere nacionalnog zavjeta s ponosnim uspjehom njegova ostvarenja. Tijekom πezdesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa u dvorcu je smjeπten Gradski muzej Vukovara, koji je izravno povezan s prof.dr. Antunom Bauerom, roenim Vukovarcem, istaknutim arheologom, muzeologom i kolekcionarom, osnivaËem brojnih muzejskih ustanova. On je bio i zaËetnik osnivanja vukovarskog muzeja, kojemu je darovao najcjelovitiju zbirku hrvatskih umjetnika uz mnogo crteæa, graﬁka, skulptura, namjeπtaja, starog novca. Tako CROATIA AIRLINES

feels like home :) Located downtown, in the heart of Zagreb’s bustling business district, Hotel International is the ideal venue, whether you’re visiting the City for business or pleasure. Our spacious, elegantly appointed guest-rooms, and luxurious suites, will ensure that your stay in Zagreb will be one to remember. Just minutes away from Zagreb’s main attractions, the Hotel International is your best bet as a starting point to explore the City’s hidden corners, green parks, picturesque open-air markets, theatres, museums, galleries, bohemian cafés and lively clubs. “Feels like home ...” is not just a slogan, but rather our service promise. Come and see for yourself - be sure to book Hotel International on your next visit to Zagreb.

Expedia® travelers have ranked for the second year in a row Hotel International among the world’s best hotels on this year’s Expedia Insiders’ Select™ list. The list formally recognizes individual hotels worldwide that consistently deliver excellent service, a great overall experience and a notable value. The full list represents only a small percentage of the world’s top hotels from the more than 110,000 hotel properties offered on Expedia®.

Miramarska 24 94

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10 000 Zagreb

Croatia

1st prize - Tourist Flower Quality for Croatia Award for the best continental Croatian hotel with 4* in 2010 & 2011 & 2012.

T: +385 1 610 8800

www.hotel-international.hr

je i nastala Zbirka Bauer s galerijom umjetnina. Veliki dio danaπnje muzejske knjiænice obuhvaÊa i donacijski knjiæniËni fond dr. Bauera s više od 3000 raritetnih vodiËa, kataloga, likovnih monograﬁja i druge knjiæevne grae. U nedavnom posjetu Vukovaru i tom neobaroknom zdanju bio sam zateËen ljepotom glavne zgrade i cijeloga obnovljenog kompleksa s nekadaπnjom kolnicom, paviljonima, vrtlarevom kuÊom, sjemenarskom postajom, stajama, oranæerijom i vodotornjem, koji se pod upravom Gradskog muzeja Vukovar, na Ëelu s ravnateljicom Ruæicom MariÊ, prof., tijekom ove godine otvara kao jedan od najsuvremenije opremljenih gradskih kulturnih institucija u Hrvatskoj. Stalni postav Gradskog muzeja Vukovar u dvorcu Eltz, uz njegove posebne izloæbe i zbirke, te kulturni fundus Muzeja vuËedolske kulture i njegovog arheoloπkog parka otvaraju poseban prostor za nove turistiËke znamenitosti i zbivanja. »ista je ljubav u koju je poloæen Vukovar i njegovo okruæje. Ovdje se dodiruje titraj predanosti i svemir dobrote ljudi koji u njemu æive. Tu je ispisan i zakon pravde u kojoj je sloboda neotuivo pravo s bogatim priruËnikom za sadaπnjost. Dvorac Eltz svojim viπestoljetnim poslanjem iskazuje isti cilj i identiËan put ostvarenja toga snovitog dosega. Kao ptica Feniks, on je znak i znamen ponovnog roenja, izrasloga iz hrabrosti istine, sa sveænjem svjedoËanstava koja iskazuju da je ta sloboda vidljiva i letom ptice na modrini nebeskog svoda nad Vukom i Dunavom. ■

ukovar is a rare pearl. It exudes the picturesque atmosphere of an old urban settlement. In the landscapes at the far east of Croatia the serenity of the greenery touches the celestial expanse reflected in the flows of the Vuka and Danube rivers which merge in this area to form a long Danube basin. As I arrived in this exceptionally beautiful area, I saw the blue flow of the Danube and I immediately remembered the New Year’s concerts in Vienna’s Musikverein and the rich content of one of the best waltzes ever composed by Johann Strauss Junior. I remembered the many rivers I had met up to then. Whether clear, green or muddy after a rain, I had not seen a bluer one before I visited Vukovar. On that day, the Danube basin was full of amazing blueness; it was full of lively and active energies which were determined to take the river to the depths of the sea that it enters at the end of its journey. The city of Vukovar sprung up at the confluence of the two rivers in a place where

habitation goes back to the 5th century B.C. Already in prehistory, this urban area pulsated with the life of numerous inhabitants only five kilometres down the stream in VuËedol, an important archaeological site. The host of artefacts that have been found there date back to the Neolithic. In the early 20th century, the site revealed an important archaeological find of extraordinary beauty and value: The Dove of VuËedol, a ceramic censer which has become one of the trademark symbols of the modernday city of Vukovar. Located at the crossroads between Slavonia and Srijem (Syrmium), Vukovar, a city which was named after the Vuka River, occupies a prominent spot in the landscape. The entire countryside is filled to the brim with the etheric pulsation of natural rarities which conjure up the depth of the Unity from which it was created. Ever since Roman times, it has occupied an important position on the Danube trading route, above the confluence of the two rivers. It was this position that afforded it natural defences, and its wooded and fertile hinterland allowed it to live on agriculture, hunting and fishing. The area is steeped in history, owing to its position on the border line between the East and the West, between various civilizations, cultures and religions. In the early 13th century, Vukovar was among the first Croatian cities which were given the status of a free royal city. Its medieval history ended in the early 16th century when it fell under the rule of the Turkish Empire of Suleiman the Great. After 161 years of Turkish rule, it was liberated by General Aspremont who handed it over to the newly established Royal Chamber which ruled over it through a governor. In 1728, King Charles VI donated the city and many villages that surrounded it to his count, von Kueffstein, who, only a year later, sold it to Philipp Carl von Eltz, the Arch Chancellor and Prince-Archbishop of Mainz, a high dignitary whose successors still live in Germany. The history of the Vukovar estate and the Eltz Manor starts in the early 18th century. During the 208 years, which is how long the family’s ownership lasted, more particularly up to 1945 when both the manor and the estate were confiscated, the Eltzs improved the economy of the area by developing viticulture, apiculture, agriculture and silk weaving. From the very outset, the Eltz estate in Vukovar was a majorat, which means that it could not be given away or divided, but rather inherited by the first born son. With time, the first manufactures in Slavonia started operating on what was known as a very meticulously run estate. Steam mills were built, the production of the best quality wine started, a stud farm of Lipizzaner and Nonius horses was established. CROATIA AIRLINES

The manor was and remains one of the most dominant sights in Vukovar. It stretches along the main street and the building has gradually grown into what it is today following numerous reconstructions and additions of stylistically different parts. The original building, a simple early classicistic residence, developed gradually from a modest family home to a representative castle of central European appearance. Having purchased the Vukovar estate, the Counts of Eltz spent very little time there. It took only two years, from 1749 to 1751, for their house to be built as a simple, early classicistic one-storey building, rather unassuming in its appearance. As their position among the nobility strengthened, the building kept on being enlarged and extended through numerous additions and embellishments, the last being its exuberant neo-Baroque façade which was designed by the Viennese architect Viktor Sidek during the late historicism in 1907. The central part of the manor was added to the already existing building with an avant-corps, and three levels with a string of outbuildings, so the entire structure became more imposing, more portentous and worthy of its purpose. Castles and manors, just like people, live their lives; they have their ups and downs; they develop, they get richer in content, they build their existence on their own experience, cognition and sense of hearing. As witnesses of time, with a bundle of evidence and testimonies, they represent a counterpoint of endeavours which they have tried to pursue and achievements they have reached. That is why a story about any manor or castle should not be read as a supplement to the knowledge about the world we live in but rather as a poem with different choruses among which every reader is free to choose one to their taste. On a footprint no larger than three hectares, in a new, baroque part of town, the Eltz Manor has lived its life as a whole composed of the main building with the southwest façade facing the street and the northeast facing the promenade park along the Danube. There is also a group of beautiful and harmoniously designed outbuildings that lean on the manor and constitute its inseparable part both in terms of the ambient feeling as well as architecture. The Chapel of St. Roch was erected across the courtyard from the outbuildings. It has never belonged to the manor but it ﬁts beautifully with it. The façade facing the street never gave away much about the life of the noble family, while the courtyard façade, with the former park facing the Danube, was beaming with life and happenings, so everything and around it was entirely different, fuller and livelier. An architectural challenge presented itself to design a 96

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place which would fulfil two requirements: to be an intimate place for the family and a venue for public events of the kind that every court or larger noble residence strove to have. Thus, all the main salons and drawing rooms in the manor faced the park, while the stairwells ran parallel to the street façade, in the middle of the floor plan. Every castle or manor, like every human being for that matter, can talk about its spirituality and physique. These historical places can still convey the magic of their sounds and silence, discoveries, strengths and weaknesses, depending on how people lived in them and for how long. The opening between the manor and the Danube features a promenade. Due to its position in town, it has prevented the expansion of the noble estate. No detailed planning of this landscaped park has ever been found. Based on the coloured drawings that the feudal land surveyor Gabriel Horem made in 1817, one can reconstruct its former appearance: there was a meadow and meandering paths in the middle and a dense thicket around it. Later in the day, the Eltz Counts erected the Orangery where sensitive plants from the manor and the park were sheltered in wintertime. The building, which still bears the same name, currently houses one of the galleries of the Vukovar City Museum. From the moment they started managing the Vukovar estate, the noble family Eltz made sure that it developed in line with the development of the city, which is today the biggest river harbour in Croatia. Between the first count, Philipp Carl, and the last one, Jakob Eltz III, the last member of the noble family who lived in Vukovar until World War II, the manor was home to many generations. From the end of World War II until the beginning of the Homeland War in 1991, the manor remained largely unchanged, but then, as a result of the aggression of the Yugoslav Army, it was almost completely destroyed. Its thorough reconstruction from 1997 to 2012, after the area was liberated, assumed the proportions of a national pledge which has seen a happy and proud ending. During the 60s of last century, the manor became home of the Vukovar City Museum. The initiative was launched by Professor Antun Bauer, Ph.D., a native of Vukovar, a prominent archaeologist, museologist and collector who founded many museum institutions. He donated a most comprehensive collection of works by Croatian artists, including numerous drawings, prints, sculptures, pieces of furniture and old coins, to the newly established museum. That was the origin of the Bauer collection and

the art gallery. An important part of the current museum library consisting of 3,000 rare guide books, catalogues, art monographs and other literary holdings was another donation by Dr. Bauer. When I recently visited Vukovar and this neoBaroque ediﬁce, I was fascinated by the beauty of the main building and the entire renovated complex which includes a former gateway building, pavilions, a gardener’s cottage, a propagation station, stables, an orangery and a water tower. Under the management of the Vukovar City Museum, headed by Professor Ruæica MariÊ, the complex will be opened as one of the most modernly equipped cultural institutions in Croatia. The permanent exhibit of the Vukovar City Museum in the Eltz Manor, along with its special exhibitions and particular collections and the holdings of the Museum of VuËedol Culture and its archaeological park, offer a special space for new tourist attractions and events. The city of Vukovar and its environs lie on a bed of pure love. The good vibrations of dedication and the universe of goodness fostered by the people who live here go hand in hand. In the rules of justice that were written here, freedom is an unalienable right and comes with a rich manual for the present. Through its mission that has spanned centuries, the Eltz Manor has always had the same goal and always followed the same road towards achieving this dreamy and lofty goal. As a phoenix, it is a sign and symbol of resurrection which has grown from the bravery of the truth, with a sheaf of testimonies which show that that freedom is visible, and with the ﬂights of birds in the blueness of the celestial arch over the Vuka and the Danube. ■

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■ MODA FASHION

Neki dizajneri imaju svoj stil od poËetka, a kad je rijeË o hrvatskoj modnoj sceni, Juraj Zigman svakako je jedan od njih. Jedan je od onih osobitih dizajnera na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni kojemu se smijeπi lijepa i πarena buduÊnost. Some designers have their own style right from the very beginning, and when it comes to the Croatian fashion scene, Juraj Zigman is deﬁnitely one of them. He is one of the special designers on the Croatian fashion scene whose future promises to be beautiful and colourful. Piše/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotograﬁje/Photos Arhiva Zigman/The Zigman archive

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kaæe, nauËio mnogo, no moda nije samo kreativnost, nego i konkretan rad. A tu mu svakako pomaæe i njegov talent. S lakoÊom je naπao niπu u kojoj njegove πarolike kreacije nau put do klijentica koje onda svoj stil oplemene osobitim kreacijama dovoljno atraktivnima da se igraju stilom, a to je ono πto Zigman od njih i oËekuje. Naime, istiËe da stvara za æene sa stilom, a tu godine nisu bitne ni odluËujuÊe. Kad govorimo o utjecajima, mogli bismo ga usporediti s Vivienne Westwood ili Alexanderom McQueenom, Ëije se ime oduvijek vezalo uz maπtovito koriπtenje materijala i uzoraka. No, Zigman je svakako drugaËiji od njih, odnosno nije nikakav kopirant, jer ima vlastitu viziju veÊ od poËetka. Nikad nije volio minimalizam, Ëak ni kad je, prije nego što je krenuo u samostalne vode, radio u Italiji za brend Roberto Musso, koji se istiËe jednostavnošÊu. Radio je kako bi stekao iskustvo, upoznao scenu i stvaranje kolekcije za prodaju, jer Mussove su kreacije prisutne u cijelom svijetu. Mislim da dizajneri, kaæe Juraj, moraju stalno uËiti i upoznavati druge stilove i kulture tek onda moæeπ reÊi ovo mi se svia a ovo ne. Jer, njegove kreacije imaju jaku poruku a ona je

eki dizajneri imaju svoj stil od poËetka, a kad je rijeË o hrvatskoj modnoj sceni, Juraj Zigman svakako je jedan od njih. No, njega neÊete pamtiti po jednostavnosti − dizajner iz Rijeke eksplozija je kreativnosti i boja i motiva te Êete u samo jednu njegovu kreaciju gledati nekoliko minuta: ne samo da oËarava izvanrednom konstrukcijom, nego se Zigmanov rad izdvaja i po koriπtenju motiva koje osobno osmiπljava iz sezone u sezonu. Na hrvatskoj je modnoj sceni prisutan veÊ niz godina i svaki put kad predstavlja kolekciju na Cro A Porteru (jedno od znaËajnih modnih dogaanja u Hrvatskoj), Zigman osmisli Ëetrdesetak kreacija kojima bi se mogao predstavljati i u modnoj metropoli bilo gdje u svijetu. Obrazovao se u uglednoj milanskoj πkoli za dizajn Instituto Europeo di Design, gdje je,

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od izrade crteæa i osmiπljavanja motiva, da bi sve, tijekom proizvodnje, sjelo na svoje mjesto. Jedan je od osobitih dizajnera na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni, kojemu se smijeπi lijepa i πarena buduÊnost. Q

ome designers have their own style right from the very beginning, and when it comes to the Croatian fashion scene, Juraj Zigman is deﬁnitely one of them. However, you will not remember him for his simplicity ∑ the designer from Rijeka is an explosion of creativity, colours and patterns. You will need a few minutes to take in just one of his creations: not only do they captivate with their extraordinary constructions, but Zigman’s work stands out for the use of prints which he personally invents for each new season. He has been on the Croatian fashion scene for a number of years already, and for every show at Cro A Porter (one of the most important fashion events in Croatia) he prepares a collection of about forty creations which he could easily present in any fashion city anywhere in the world. He was educated at the prestigious Milan design school, Instituto Europeo di Design, i seksi i agresivna i utjecajna. Ne zanimaju ga pritajene teksture i jednobojnost. To za njega ne postoji. Dosadno mu je. Kad je na pistu, prilikom listopadskog predstavljanja kolekcije na zagrebaËkom Cro A Porteru, pustio æene s maskama, Zigman je stekao joπ poklonika jer u kreativnom je smislu uistinu napravio korak naprijed. Naime, likovno je spojio cijelu siluetu, a opet je odjeÊa na kraju krajeva nosiva, fantastiËno iskrojena (za Zigmana radi tim vrhunskih konstruktora i krojaËa) i ima velik potencijal za svaki dan. Njegovi komadi imaju i volane i aplikacije. Imaju i ekstremne nijanse, detalje, od Ëipke do tila. I na kraju sve nekako izgleda likovno skladno jer Zigman ne samo da ima oko za detalje, nego i u cijelom procesu sudjeluje od same skice, preko izrade pa do stiliziranja prije revije… Njegov proces kreiranja kreÊe CROATIA AIRLINES

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where, he says, he learned a lot, but fashion is not only about creativity, it is also concrete work. His talent certainly helps him in this area. With ease he found a niche in which his colourful creations fi nd their way to his clients, who choose them to enhance their own style because Zigman’s pieces are attractive enough to inspire fashionistas to play with their own styles, which is exactly what the designer expects from them. Specifi cally, he points out that he creates for women with style, and that the client’s age neither matters nor does it make any difference. If we are talking about infl uences, we could compare him to Vivienne Westwood or Alexander McQueen who have both been associated with the creative use of materials and prints. But Zigman is defi nitely different from them; he is not a copy-cat. Far from it, as he has had his own vision from the very beginning. He has never liked minimalism, not even before he set out on his own, when he worked in Italy for Roberto Musso, a brand which stands out for its simplicity. He worked there to gain experience, to get to know the fashion scene and to create sellable collections, since Musso creations are present worldwide. ∑ I think designers must constantly learn and explore other styles and cultures, and only then can they say I like this and not that, ∑ says Juraj. As a result, his creations send a strong message, that is, they are sexy, aggressive and infl uential. He is not interested in latent textures and single colours. He fi nds them boring. Last October, when he sent out his models on the runway wearing masks for the presentation of his collection at Zagreb’s Cro A Porter, he gained even more admirers because he really put his best creative foot forward. Visually, the entire silhouette appeared as an artistically pleasing continuum, and yet his clothes are ultimately wearable, fantastically tailored (a team of top constructors and tailors work for Zigman) and have great daily wear potential. His pieces have ruffles and patches. They also depict extreme nuances and details, from lace to tulle. And in the end it all kind of looks visually harmonious because Zigman not only has an eye for detail, but he is involved in the entire process, from making the first sketch, to manufacturing and to styling before the show... His process of creating starts from making the drawings and designing the prints in order for everything to fall into place during production. He is one of the special designers on the Croatian fashion scene whose future is beautiful and colourful. Q 104

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■ MERIDIJANI MERIDIENS

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lavni grad nekadaπnjeg kraljevstva Sijam, danas Kraljevine Tajland, smjeπten na poËetku delte Chao Praye u tajlandski zaljev, koji Tajlanani zovu Krung Tep Mahanakhon, zapravo nosi ime za koje se malo tko moæe pohvaliti da ga može izgovoriti napamet: Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit. U prijevodu: Veliki grad anela, riznica boæanskih dragulja, velika neosvojiva zemlja, veliko i istaknuto kraljevstvo, kraljevski i divan glavni grad pun devet plemenitih dragulja, najviπe kraljevsko obitavaliπte i velebna palaËa, boæansko utoËiπte i mjesto gdje prebivaju reinkarnirani duhovi. Zapadnjaci ga jednostavno zovu Bangkok. A gotovo svi turistiËki vodiËi Venecijom istoka. Kliπirano usporeivanje s kraljicom mora, Guinnessov rekorder u duljini imena duguje to tome što leæi na nebrojnim kanalima. Moæda je to i jedan od razloga zbog kojih se potkraj proπlog stoljeÊa Bangkok pobratimio sa Sankt Peterburgom, ruskim nositeljem istih atributa, ali u sjevernjaËkoj varijanti. Pa zaπto onda u tom druπtvu nisu i Amsterdam ili Hamburg? I otkuda uopÊe ta sklonost da se svako malo vodenastije mjesto na svijetu usporeuje sa slavnim gradom u laguni, pitao sam se s blagom ironijom, πeÊuÊi obalom Chao Praye Ëijih me nekoliko meandara naËas podsjetilo, pazi sada! ∑ na vijugavi Kanal Grande. Nagaanja kakvim bi sve pikanterijama glasoviti venecijanski zavodnik obogatio svoje memoare da se kojim sluËajem prepustio neodoljivom zovu bangkoπkih noÊi, Ëine u tom smislu puno originalnju vezu. No to je tema za neku sasvim drugu priËu. OdluËan prepustiti se mislima na volju i slijediti njihov vijugavi trag, pa makar vodio preko venecijanskih kala i poljana, povest Êu vas sada u obilazak ovim divnim glavnim gradom. Urbanom dæunglom bez srediπta i kraja, metropolom dobrog raspoloæenja, velebnom ponudom nepËanog

blaga, utoËiπtem veliËanstvene bezbriænosti i mjestom beskonaËnih prometnih zastoja. Posljednja dva desetljeÊa preobrazila su Bangkok u kaotiËnu dæunglu od betona, proπaranu tropskim raslinjem. No zlato je ono koje govori o njegovoj proπlosti. Bangkok je nastao kada je MletaËka Republika nestala. Povijesna patina briæno je zaπtiÊena oplatom od plemenite kovine. Po pozlaÊenosti nadmaπuje Ëak i grad s kupolama sv.Marka. Isto kao i katolici, theravada budisti vole i Boga i zlato, toËnije Buddhu. Hramova ima svugdje po gradu. Obavezno treba vidjeti one najveÊe i najznaËajnije, smjeπtene na Rathanakosinu, nekada povijesnoj adi na koju je potkraj 18. stoljeÊa, iz nedaleke Ayuttaye, prenesena prijestolnica kraljevstva Sijam. Wat Phra Kaew i Wat Pho udomljuju Smaragdnog i LeæeÊeg Buddhu. 75 centimetarski kipiÊ i 46 metarska pozlaÊena statua najznaËajnije su nacionalne relikvije. Na istom je popisu velika Kraljevska palaËa smjeπtena unutar istih zidina kao i hram Smaragdnog Buddhe. Nakon πto se u 13. stoljeÊu osamostalio od Kmerskog Carstva, Tajland je do danas sluæbeno kraljevina, a theravada budizam dræavna religija. God. 1932. postaje ustavna monarhija. Posebnost Tajlanda je da je Njegovo VeliËanstvo Bhumibol Adulyadej, kralj Rama IX., dræavni poglavar s trenutaËno najduljim staæom na svijetu. Nadmaπio Viktoriju, a ako mu Bog, tj. Buddha podari joπ malo sreÊe i zdravlja, prestiÊi Êe i Franju Josipa I. Vlada naime joπ od davne 1946., naveliko cijenjen i πtovan, a njegov roendan 5.12. dræavni je praznik. U Bangkoku je luksuz jeftin. U prilog tome ide i proπlosezonski pad cijena zbog stanja izazvanog velikim poplavama pa se u Millenium Hiltonu ili Banyan Treeu moglo noÊiti za tek neπto viπe od 100 eura. Poslovna Ëetvrt Bang Rak dræi najviπu cijenu stanovanja u gradu. Njezini dijelovi Silom i Riverside opÊenito su poznati po luksuznim hotelima uz rijeku te lounge barovima, bazenima i terasama sa spektakularnim pogledima. No moj je ultimativni izbor Sukhumwit Road, duga avenija koja se od Siam Squarea,

Pitanje kojim redom krenuti da biste upoznali Bangkok ne stavlja vas pred neku osobitu dvojbu. Ne zato πto toËno poznajete svoj dnevni itinerar, nego zato πto svaka Ëetvrt, svaka ulica, svaki stol nudi priËu, vlastite specijalitete, ne puπtajuÊi vas lako iz svog zagrljaja. The question where to start in order to get to know Bangkok does not represent a particular dilemma. Not because you know your daily itinerary to the last detail, but because every neighbourhood, every street, every table offers their own story, their own specialties, and do not let you leave their embrace lightheartedly.

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Saša Pjanić

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geometrijskog srediπta Bangkoka, duljinom od gotovo deset kilometara, proteæe do njegova istoËnog predgraa. Doima se kao kraljeænica grada, kojom spinalni impulsi urbane vreve putuju od malog noænog prsta ravno u glavu. Cijelom duljinom bulevara, poput uzorka riblje kosti πiri se splet sporednih ulica i uliËica, svijet gdje Êe svaki putnik dobrih namjera Bangkok doæivjeti kao vlastiti dnevni boravak. Kozmopolitski πarm Sukhumwita temelji se na nebrojenim hotelima najπireg moguÊeg cjenovnog ranga i stambenim apartmanima koje nastanjuju diplomati, poslovni ljudi, razni rezidenti ili pak farangi (stranci) s viπkom novca i manjkom ideja o njegovom lukrativnom koriπtenju. Iz mora hotela mogao bih izdvojiti samo ona tri u kojima sam do sada boravio; s prosjeËnom cijenom od 30 eura, i to u rangu vrhunskih hrvatskih trojki. Po Ëemu je Bangkok osobit? Moæda je bolje pitanje po Ëemu nije. Vjerojatno samo po beskrajnim prometnim zastojima, toliko uobiËajenim za megagradove juga. Ali i ta globalna pojava dobila je ovdje lokalna obilježja, pa umjesto oËekivane æivËane napetosti i eksplozije nezadovoljstva, a u skladu s tradicionalnim naËelom Mai Pen Rai, nitko se zbog toga previπe ne uzbuuje. A kada dopustite da i vas obuzme isto stanje duha, onda je boravak u Bangkoku i viπe nego ugodan. Tajlanani su esteti u svemu, pa tako i u ophoenju. Burno iskazivanje emotivnog stanja ili gubitak strpljenja ovdje jednostavno dræe nepristojnim. Taj se obiËaj naziva Chai Yen. Ako nekome vozaËu nehotice izletite pred vozilo, samo Êe vam se nasmijati. Tajlananima je u svim prilikama veoma vaæno saËuvati vedar duh (a sjetimo se samo tko je sebe prozvao La Serenissima). Ljutnja i bijes srozavaju ukus pa Tajlanani svoje emocije uglavnom izraæavaju osmijehom (Yim). U tom veselom znakovnom sustavu postoji najmanje desetak nijansi facijalne mimike, u rasponu od sretan sam do suza do znam da ti dugujem lovu, ali joπ je nemam. TuristiËki plakati podsjeÊaju vas da je Tajland zemlja osmijeha. Fraza koja se naveliko rabi kao nacionalni slogan tek je pojednostavljena interpretacija sijamskog obiËaja Lu Na, tj. Ëuvanja dobrog obraza. Svakako, Yim je besplatan (no moæda Êete ga svojevoljno ipak nagraditi napojnicom…?!). Smisao æivota Tajlanana je Sanuk, obiËaj da se sve radi s uæitkom i zabavom. Nakon zavrπenog posla ne pita se je li dan bio uspjeπan, nego je li bilo zabavno. Kada jednom udomaÊite svoje dnevne navike, zapazit Êete da ljudi ovdje mnogo vremena provode oko stola. Glad je vjerojatno jedino stanje kada se Tajlanani

mrπte. Stranac bi se pak, uz toliku ponudu hrane za bagatelu, morao svojski potruditi æeli li kojim sluËajem ostati gladan. Pitanje kojim redom krenuti da biste upoznali grad ne stavlja vas pred neku osobitu dvojbu. Ne zato πto toËno poznajete svoj dnevni itinerar, nego πto svaka Ëetvrt, svaka ulica, svaki soi nudi priËu, vlastite specijalitete, ne puπtajuÊi vas lako iz svog zagrljaja. Najbolje se stoga prepustiti instinktu vlastitog nosa. A to, sasvim spontano, moæe biti i ovako: Poete li rano izjutra u πetnju, steÊi Êete dojam da se treÊina metropole bavi spravljanjem hrane. To je pravi ritual, neki gurmanski Tai chi chuan. Bangkok je, kaæu, najveÊa kuhinja pod vedrim nebom. Ulice, raskrπÊa i trgovi, zapravo cijeli grad, zakrËeni su πtandovima u obliku improviziranih, pokretnih mini kuhinja. Æelite li poslije zajutarka popiti dobar espresso, zaputit Êete se ravno u Ëetvrt Silom i u sjeni robusnog i, poput koπnice, predimenzioniranog State Towera uæivati u okusu koji podsjeÊa na dom. Kada se napokon zaæelite πetnje, πetajte polako. Tako se najdalje stiæe jer, nemojte smetnuti s uma, 30 Celzijevih pluseva ovdje se smatra ugodnim. Hodajte Lumpini parkom, Pratunamom, uzduæ Sukhumwita ili po Sky Walku izmeu Chitloma i Siam Paragona. Kada vam i to dosadi, ukrcajte se na long tail boat, tajlandsku inaËicu gondole s golemim Yamahinim motorom umjesto raspjevanog veslaËa i plovite rijekom i sporednim kanalima. Tijekom dana vlada obiËaj da se hrana uzima i gricka pomalo; razne juhe, raænjiÊi, voÊe, svjeæe, præeno ili nadjeveno, slatkiπi. Prava gozba poËinje tek na veËer, i to u πto veÊem druπtvu, jer uæitak hrane Tajlanani dijele skupno. SamoÊa je za njih neprihvatljiva i poraæavajuÊa. VeËernji se obrok sastoji doslovno od svega. Tom Yum Kung, pikantna juha od πkampa i zaËinskog bilja, Tom Khaw Khai, blaga pileÊa juha u kokosovu mlijeku, plodovi mora, riba, piletina, paËetina ili svinjetina u nekoj od bezbroj varijanti, crveni, æuti ili zeleni curry, Som Tum, zaËinjena salata od svjeæe papaje i nezaobilazna riæa na pari, prilog bez kojega niπta ne prolazi. Redoslijed jedenja je neodreen. Jede se odjednom sve pomalo, πtapiÊima, ælicom, viljuškom i prstima, a grumen slijepljene riæe na praznom tanjuru znak je da ste upravo zavrπili s gozbom. Restorana i uliËnih gostionica ima na pretek. Od urbanoga gastro chica u rangu Manhattana, Sohoa ili Die Mietea, do uliËnih restorana i zalogajnica svugdje po gradu. ©to se tiËe osobnog izbora, preferiram ovo potonje zato πto su arbitri ukusa ipak domaÊi hranoljupci. A cijene su otprilike deset puta niæe. Uz dodatnu bocu piva, koje stoji oko CROATIA AIRLINES

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15 kn, cijenu Êete veËere udvostruËiti. InaËe, prženi kukci i πtipavci kao jeftin snack nude se na Khaosan Roadu, poput kestenja u Ilici. U Bangkoku æivi oko deset milijuna ljudi. Baπ kao i tajlandska kuhinja, stanovniπtvo je krajnje mjeπovito. Vrlo brzo poËinjete opažati razlike izmeu Sijamaca, Malajaca, Karena, Kmera, Lana, Burmanaca ili Laoπana. Veoma je dojmljiva kineska Ëetvrt u kojoj æivi brojna kineska zajednica, pridoπla ovamo joπ prije dva stoljeÊa. Grad nastanjuje i oko pola milijuna stranaca koje Tajlanani zovu farangi. To su preteæno Amerikanci, Britanci, Indijci i Japanci, a u posljednjih desetak godina sve je viπe Rusa s rezidentnim statusom. Kozmopolitski Bangkok odiπe jedinstvenim æivotnim stilom, mješavinom duge lokalne tradicije i snaænog zapadnjaËkog utjecaja. Tajland je jedna od rijetkih azijskih zemalja koja nikada nije bila kolonija. Tom se Ëinjenicom danas ponosi svaki Tajlananin. Suverenost duguje snaænom britanskom pokroviteljstvu nad slobodnom tampon zonom prema Francuskoj Indokini. Sjetite se ﬁlma Ana i kralj s Jodie Foster. U doba Hladnog rata kraljevina je bila pouzdan ameriËki saveznik u nemirnom okruæju, a do kraja intervencije u Vijetnamu, doslovce njezina kopnena pozadina. Do kraja 20. stoljeÊa globalizacija i strane investicije progurale su je u prestiæno druπtvo azijskih tigrova, premda prosjeËna primanja od 200 US dolara upozoravaju prije na tigrovo mladunËe, joπ nedovoljno stasalo da se samo brine za sebe. Tajlandsko druπtvo je patrijarhalno, pa i maËistiËko, no njegov stup je æenska poduzetnost. Joπ u poljodjelskim zajednicama æene su organizirale i sudjelovale u radovima u polju, brinule se o obitelji i vodile kuÊni budæet. Ta tradicija ogleda se u suvremenoj statistici kroz podatke da u udjelu zaposlenog stanovniπtva æene participiraju sa 56 posto, a Ëak 34 posto svih viπih menadæera jesu æene, πto je viπe i od prosjeka SAD-a. Moæda to i objaπnjava fenomen zaπto se stanovit broj Tajlanana odluËuje za promjenu spola. No uspjeh ovisi o obrazovanju, a to je na Tajlandu ipak privilegija imuÊne manjine. Rasprave o naliËju sustava ovdje treba izbjegavati, jer Tajlanani su tako ponosni sami na sebe da ne vole Ëuti kritiku na svoj raËun, pogotovo ne od faranga. Bitno je da stvari izgledaju lijepo, pa Ëak i ako to one nisu, jer ruænoÊa, kakva god bila, uvreda je za Ëist obraz. Opsjednutost internetom uvjerljivo ide u prilog æenske populacije. Taj pak fenomen djelomiËno je u vezi sa samosvijeπÊu da su najpoæeljnije nevjeste na svijetu. Shodno tomu, posao braËnog posredniπtva cvate. Uspjeh, status i moÊ visoko su na cijeni u tajlandskom 116

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druπtvu. Muπkarci, kada god to mogu, vole ih isticati, Mercedesom i zlatnim nakitom ili pak laænim iPhoneom, ovisno o moguÊnostima. Leæeran stil odijevanja faranga neÊe nikoga osobito impresionirati. Dvije najomiljenije muπke razonode jesu tradicionali boks Muay Thai i pomodni nogomet, obje s razliËitim statusnim etiketama. Ono πto svi Tajlanani, bez obzira na status, rado prakticiraju, jest spavanje. Tropska æega iscrpljuje, u krevet se ide priliËno kasno, a radni dan poËinje veÊ u 8 sati. Spavaju na mahove i to kada stignu i gdje stignu; u uredu, na ulici, u parku, u autobusu, metrou, tuktuku. Bangkok deﬁnitivno nije mjesto gdje se novac πtedi. Hedonizam je tu ljekovit pa dok si u Rimu, budi kao Rimljanin. A æivot u ovom gradu, barem po epikurejskom izbjegavanju patnje, prije podsjeÊa na VjeËni grad nego na Veneciju. Esteti kakvi jesu, što se tiËe mode, Tajlanani su vrlo osvijeπteni. Ljepπi spol, bez obzira na to je li rijeË o teenagericama ili æenama u godinama, uvelike dræi do svog izgleda. Njegovane i prpoπne, uvijek vedre i nasmijane, zacijelo su pronaπle recepturu usporenog starenja. Jer kad Tajlanankama procjenjujete dob, dodajte uvijek joπ 10 godina na ono πto vam se Ëini. Hramovi potroπnje zaπtitni su znakovi vrveÊeg i uæurbanog centralnog Bangkoka; Siam Paragon, Central World Plaza, MBK, Siam Center, Central Department Stoarea, niæu se uzastopce oko sjeciπta linija BTS nadzemne æeljeznice na Siam Squareu. U mnogim sporednim ulicama nalaze se butici s domaÊim i svjetskim modnim markama. SljedeÊa trgovaËka niπa vrijedna respekta elektronika su i informatika. Tajland ih proizvodi jeftino i na veliko. Pantip Plaza, sjeverno od Siam Squarea, ultimativni je shopping mall, specijaliziran za tu vrstu robe. Fotograﬁ imaju takoer razloga πvrljati po duÊanima jer grad je jedan od veÊih æariπta medijske i modne produkcije u tom dijelu Azije. Po trgovinama fotografskom opremom nae se svašta, pa i moguÊnost da bilo kakvu stariju opremu, uz nadoplatu, vrlo povoljno zamijenite za neπto novije. Terminalnu fazu shopping groznice zakljuËite na nekoj od brojnih trænica svim i svaËim, od Pratu Nama do strancima najzanimljivijeg Pat Pong noÊnog marketa, najveÊe tajlandske trænice laænjacima. Mnogim mojim prijateljima laæni je Rollex bio draæi dar od drvenog Buddhe. Spremate li se za veËernji izlazak, nemojte previπe planirati! Opustite se! Bangkok je napad na sva osjetila odjednom, pa Êete ionako veËeras podnijeti tek mali djeliÊ onoga πto vam noÊni æivot grada nudi. PoËnite laganom πetnjom koja otvara apetit. Ovisno o trenutaËnom raspoloæenju, pratnji i dæepu,

πou u kojem nastupaju iskljuËivo transvestiti. InaËe, fascinantan je naËin na koji je kathoey populacija prihvaÊena u tajlandskom druπtvu, πto opet nije stvar pozapadnjenja, veÊ budistiËke tradicije tolerancije prema svakome. I neÊete ih naÊi samo po barovima i cabaretima. Normalno se zapoπljavaju kao sluæbenici, bankovni Ëinovnici, vodiËi, recepcionari, Ëak i kao medicinske sestre. Za kompletnu promjenu spola, koja za njihov pojam uopÊe nije jeftina, katkad rade i petnaestak godina. Tko se æeli s njima bolje upoznati, idealno je mjesto Casanova Bar na Nana Plazi. No jedna noÊ u godini, za koju se isplati zateÊi u Bangkoku, pruæit Êe vam neponovljivo iskustvo. Loi Krathong, ceremonija kojom se odaje poπtovanje vodenim duhovima. Prema tajlandskom lunarnom kalendaru, dogaa se 12. mjeseca u noÊi uπtapa. Sastoji se od prinoπenja darova rijeci u malim plutajuÊim posudicama spravljenima iz debla bananina drveta. Ceremoniju upotpunjava paljenje Khom Fai, lampiona od riæina papira sa svijeÊama i puπtanjem u zrak. Stotine tisuÊa lebdeÊih lampiona u noÊi doimaju se poput svjetleÊih meduza u tamnim dubinama oceana. I, na kraju, poznati MleÊanin pozabavio se pitanjem koje mnogi znatiæeljnici Ëesto postavljaju revnim hodoËasnicima u ovaj grad. Goldoni je u GostioniËarki Mirandolini zapisao sljedeÊe: Tko je taj koji moæe odoljeti æeni, kad joj dade vremena da upregne sve svoje umijeÊe? Tko pobjegne, ne mora se bojati da Êe ga pobijediti, ali tko zastane, tko sluπa i u tome uæiva, prije ili poslije i unatoË svojoj volji mora pasti. n

he capital city of the former Kingdom of Siam, now the Kingdom of Thailand, located on the Chao Phraya river delta, where it ﬂows into the Gulf of Thailand, is called Krung Thep Mahanakhon izaberite ugodno mjesto uz rijeku ili za 300 kn krstarite njome cijele veËeri na brodovima restoranima (hrana je uraËunata u cijenu). Ili u vrevi veËernje promenade jednostavno potraæite prvi slobodan stol na ulici. Nemojte se prejedat! Za nekoliko Êete sati sasvim sigurno veÊ opet neπto grickati. Motor-kuhinje operiraju gradom cijele noÊi. Nakon toga uæivajte u toploj noÊi i svjetlima grada uz koktel u jednom od mnogih sky barova na krovovima hotela. Neki prizori iz ﬁ lma Hangover 2 zaista ne laæu! Na ponudi vam stoji sve: predstave, cabareti, karaoke, go go barovi, klubovi sa æivom glazbom, disco. Osobito je atraktivan Calypso Cabaret, sa πarolikim kathoey predstavama, cjeloveËernji CROATIA AIRLINES

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by the people of Thailand, but few are able to memorize or know the meaning of its actual, full name ∑ Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit. Loosely translated into English, it means: The great city of angels and immortals, magnificent city of nine gems, seat of the king, city of royal palaces and home of gods incarnate, erected by Visvakarman at Indra’s behest. However, westerners simply call it Bangkok, while most tour guides refer to it as the Venice of the East. This Guinness World Record holder for the longest name owes its clichéd comparisons with the Queen of the Adriatic to the fact that it lies on many canals. This may also be one of the reasons why, in the late 20 th century, Bangkok became a sister city to Saint Petersburg, the Russian ∑ northern version of these cities. In that case, how come Amsterdam or Hamburg are not associated with them? And why is there a tendency to compare any remotely watery place on the globe with the famous Mediterranean gem anyway?, I wondered somewhat ironically as I strolled along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, its several bends reminding me of the meandering Grand Canal, believe it or not! The connection between the two cities makes more sense once you start pondering what kind of provocative anecdotes the famous Venetian lover could have written into his memoirs had he delved into the irresistible Bangkok night. That, however, is a topic for another story entirely. Determined to let my thoughts run wild, and to follow their meandering path, even if they led me through the streets and squares of Venice, I will now take you on a tour across this wonderful city ∑ an urban jungle without a centre or end, a good-time capital, a treasure trove of flavours, a sanctuary that provides magnificent placidity and a place of endless traffic jams. Over the last two decades, Bangkok has been transformed into a chaotic concrete jungle dotted with tropical vegetation, but gold is what defined it in the past. Bangkok was founded just before the fall of the Republic of Venice. The historic patina is coated with gold, outdoing even the city with the dome of St. Mark’s. Much like Catholics, Theravada Buddhists love both gold and God ∑ Buddha, more precisely. The city is strewn with temples. The ones to see are the biggest and most significant temples at Rattankosin, a historically significant river island, to which the capital city of the Kingdom of Siam was 118

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moved from nearby Ayutthaya in the late 18th century. The Wat Phra Kaew, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, feature a 75 centimetre tall statuette and a 46 meter long gilded statue, respectively, which are the most significant national relics. Included on the must-see list is the large Royal Palace, located within the same walls as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. After becoming independent from the Khmer Empire in the 13th century, Thailand has officially remained a monarchy to this day, while Theravada Buddhism is the national religion. In 1932, the nation became a constitutional monarchy. His highness Bhumibol Adulyadej, King Rama IX of Thailand, is currently the longest serving head of state in the world. He has surpassed Queen Victoria, and should Buddha grant it, he could also surpass Emperor Franz Joseph I. He has ruled since 1946, and is a greatly respected leader. His birthday, December 5th, is celebrated as a national holiday. In Bangkok, luxury is cheap. Last season, great floods caused a further reduction in the price of services, so one could spend a night in Millennium Hilton or Banyan Tree for slightly more than 100 euro. The business district Bang Rak is the most expensive residential area. Its Silom and Riverside parts are generally known for luxury hotels along the river and their lounge bars, swimming pools and terraces with spectacular views. My ultimate choice is Sukhumwit Road, a long avenue which stretches for ten kilometres from Siam Square, the geometrical centre of Bangkok, to its eastern periphery. This is the city’s backbone, in which spinal impulses of the urban buzz travel from the small toe straight to the head. A fishbone shaped network of side streets and alleys represents a world where every well intentioned traveller will experience Bangkok like their own living room. The cosmopolitan charm of Sukhumwit rests on the innumerable hotels of the widest possible price range and residential apartments inhabited by diplomats, business people, various other residents or farangi with a surplus of money and a lack of ideas on how to use it lucratively. From the myriad of hotels I could single out only the three where I have stayed so far; their average price was 30 euro and they fell into the category of what would be a top three star hotel in Croatia. What makes Bangkok special? Or better still, what does not? Perhaps the only things it shares with the megacities of the south are the endless traffic jams. However, even this global phenomenon assumes a local character here, so instead of the expected

nervous tension and explosion of dissatisfaction, nobody really gets overly stressed, all in keeping with the traditional principle of Mai Pen Rai. When you allow yourself to be seized by the same spiritual feeling, your stay in Bangkok will be more than pleasant. Thais show their aesthetic standards in everything, including the way they treat people. Stormy emotional outbursts or loss of patience are considered bad manners here. This custom is known as Chai Yen. If you unintentionally cross a driver’s way, they will just smile at you. Thais consider it very important to maintain a good spirit at all times (and let us remind ourselves who it was who called themselves La Serenissima). Anger and rage are signs of poor taste, so Thais usually express their emotions with a smile (Yim). Within this joyful system of signs, there is at least a dozen nuances of facial mimics, ranging from I am so happy I could cry to I know I owe you money, but I don’t have it yet. Tourist posters remind you that Thailand is a country of smiles. The phrase which is largely used as the national slogan is merely a simpliﬁed interpretation of the Siamese custom of Lu Na, i.e. keeping one’s face. In any case, Yim is free (but maybe you will reward it with a tip…?!). The meaning of life for Thais is Sanuk, the custom which makes them do everything with pleasure and through fun. After a day at work, nobody asks if the day was successful, but whether it was good fun. Once you adapt your daily routine to the local customs, you will notice that the people here spend a lot of time sitting around a dining table. Perhaps the only time when Thais frown is when they are hungry. A foreigner, on the other hand,

would have to make a real effort to go hungry with so much cheap food on offer. The question where to start in order to get to know the city does not represent a particular dilemma. Not because you know your daily itinerary to the last detail, but because every neighbourhood, every street, every soi offers their own story, their own specialties, and do not let you leave their embrace lightheartedly. Therefore, the best thing to do is let your instinct guide you and follow your nose. Quite spontaneously, your city tour could look like this: if you leave your hotel early in the morning and go for a stroll, you will think that one third of the metropolis is busy preparing food. This is a real ritual, a gourmet Tai chi chuan. They say that Bangkok is the biggest open air kitchen. Streets, crossroads, squares, the entire city as a matter of fact is crammed with stands which are improvised mobile mini kitchens. If you want to have a good esspresso after breakfast, head straight for the Silom neighbourhood and enjoy a taste of home in the shade of the robust and oversized State Tower. When you finally feel like going for a stroll, take your time. The slower you walk the further you will get because one thing you have to keep in mind at all times is this: here, the temperature of 30 degrees Celsius is considered pleasant. Walk through the Lumpini Park, along Sukhumwit Road, visit the Pratunam Market or the Sky Walk between Chidlom and Siam Paragon malls. When that becomes boring, you can board a long tail boat, the Thai version of a gondola, with a huge Yamaha outboard engine in place of a singing gondolier, and cruise down the river as well as its adjacent canals. During the day, it is customary only to eat smaller meals such as soups, stick-kebabs, fresh, fried or stuffed fruit, as well as various other sweets. Real feasts begin in the evening, and Thai people enjoy eating in the company of as many people as possible. For them, solitude is unacceptable. Evening meals consist of literally everything; Tom Yum Kung hot soup made from shrimp and spices, mild Tom Khaw Khai chicken soup in coconut milk, seafood, chicken, duck or pork, yellow, green or red curry, Som Tum salad made from fresh papaya, and the unavoidable side-dish of steamed rice. The course of meals is not defined. People eat a bit of everything all at once, using chopsticks, spoons, forks and fingers. A little bit of rice left on an empty plate is a sign that you have finished your meal. Restaurants and various street diners are abundant, ranging from urban gastro chic on a par with Manhattan, Soho or Die Miete, to street restaurants and snack-bars

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Bangkok deﬁnitivno nije mjesto gdje se novac πtedi. Hedonizam je tu ljekovit pa dok si u Rimu, budi kao Rimljanin. A æivot u ovom gradu, barem po epikurejskom izbjegavanju patnje, prije podsjeÊa na VjeËni grad nego na Veneciju.

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everywhere across the city. Much like the locals, I personally prefer the latter, where everything is ten times cheaper. A second bottle of beer, which costs around 15 Croatian kuna, can easily double the price of a dinner. Fried bugs are also offered as cheap snacks on the Khaosan Road, like chestnuts on Zagreb’s Ilica. Bangkok has a population of around 10 million people. Just like Thai cuisine, the population is a diverse blend, and one very quickly begins to notice the differences between the Siamese, Malayans, the Karen, Khmers, the Lan, the Burmese and Laotians. There is also a large Chinatown, where a numerous Chinese population resides, having arrived in the area two centuries ago. The city is also inhabited by around half a million foreigners called farangi by the locals. Among them are predominantly Americans, Britons, Indians and Japanese, while an increasing number of Russians have also started getting their residence permits over the last decade. The lifestyle in cosmopolitan Bangkok is truly unique and represents a blend of the long local tradition and the strong influence from the west. Thailand is one of the rare Asian countries that were never a colony, which is a fact every Thai will proudly point out. Thailand owes its sovereignty to the strong British sponsorship over the free buffer zone towards French Indochina. Remember the Film Anna and the King with Jodie Foster. During the Cold War, the kingdom was a trustworthy American ally, and until the end of the war in Vietnam, Thailand was practically American home turf. By the end of the 20 th century, globalisation and foreign investment propelled it into the prestigious company of Asian tigers, although an average salary of 200 US dollars would suggest that Thailand is still a cub, not quite capable of fending for itself. Thai society is quite patriarchal, but its backbone is female enterprise, stemming from farming communities in which women organized themselves and participated in agricultural activities, took care of their families and managed the household finances. This tradition is still evident in contemporary statistics, according to which 56 percent of the working Thai population are women. Among them, 34 percent hold executive and managerial positions, which is above the average compared to the United States. Maybe this explains why a significant number of Thais opt for sex-change surgery, which is quite a curious phenomenon. Success, however, depends on education, which is the privilege of the wealthy minority in Thailand. Discussions on

the educational system should be avoided because Thais are so proud of themselves, they do not like to hear criticism - especially not from a farang. It is important that things look nice, even if they are not, because ugliness of any sort is an offence to one’s dignity. Obsession with the internet largely affects the female population, a phenomenon partially caused by the belief that they are the most desirable brides on the planet. Consequently, the business of arranged marriages is blooming. Success, status and power rate high in Thai society. Whenever they can, men like to show it off with their Mercedes, gold jewellery and fake iPhones, depending on their fi nances. The casual dress styles of farangs will impress no one. Two favoured male past-time activities are the traditional Muay Thai boxing and football, both carrying different status labels. What all Thais like doing, regardless of status, is sleeping. The tropical heat is exhausting, people go to sleep quite late, and the work day begins at 8 a.m. The Thais, therefore, take naps whenever and wherever they can ∑ in offices, on the street, in parks, on busses, the underground, tuk-tuks… Bangkok is defi nitely not a place to save money. Hedonism has a medicinal function there, so… When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Therefore, according to Epicureanism, life in this city reminds more of the Eternal City than Venice. Being very aesthetically inclined, Thais are also very fashion conscious. Girls and women take very good care of their looks: they are pampered and always in a good mood, they seem to have discovered the formula for eternal youth. When estimating a Thai woman’s age, always add ten years to your initial guess.

Money spending temples, such as the Siam Paragon, the Central World Plaza, MBK, the Siam Center, and the Central Department Store, are the most prominent landmarks of bustling central Bangkok. They are all located in the vicinity of the BTS over ground railway intersection at Siam Square. Many side streets feature boutiques selling local and global fashion brands. Thailand also offers great opportunities to buy electronics which are mass produced and sold in bulk. The Pantip Plaza, north of Siam Square, is the ultimate shopping mall specialized in such goods. Photographers will also ﬁ nd many stores to their liking, as Bangkok is one of the biggest centres of media and fashion production in this part of Asia. Shops with photo equipment offer all kinds of deals, including the possibility of trading in your old equipment for new gear at very affordable rates. The terminal stage of your shopping fever should be spent in one of the numerous markets selling all kinds of goods, such as Pratu Nam or the foreigners’ favourite: the Pat Pong night market ∑ the largest market of counterfeit goods in Thailand. Many of my friends preferred a fake Rolex to a wooden Buddha when it came to souvenirs from Thailand. If you are planning a night out, do not plan too much! Relax… Bangkok is an all-out attack on all the senses so one night will allow you to absorb only so much of the numerous nightlife options offered by Bangkok. Begin with an appetite inducing stroll. Depending on the mood, company and the depth of your pocket, pick a pleasant spot by the river or spend an entire evening on a restaurant boat cruise which includes food for the price of 300 kuna. Otherwise, look for a CROATIA AIRLINES

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Bangkok is deﬁnitely not a place to save money. Hedonism has a medicinal function there, so… When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Therefore, according to Epicureanism, life in this city reminds more of the Eternal City than Venice.

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table along the busy streets. Do not overeat, however! Within a few hours, you will surely be snacking on something again. Mobile kitchens operate across the city throughout the night. Afterwards, enjoy the warm night and the city lights over a cocktail at one of the numerous sky-bars on hotel rooftops. Some scenes from the movie Hangover 2 are not pure fiction! Bangkok nights offer it all: plays, cabaret, karaoke, go-go bars, live music clubs, discos… Especially attractive is the Calypso Cabaret featuring diverse feature-length kathoey shows performed by transvestites. It is fascinating how well the kathoey population is accepted in Thai society. However, this is not due to western influence, but the Buddhist tradition of tolerance towards everybody. And you will not find them only in bars and cabarets. They work as bank clerks, guides, receptionists, even nurses. A complete sex change, which is not cheap at all, can take up to 15 years. Should you want to get to know them better, the best place for this is the Casanova Bar at Nana Plaza. One particular night of the year when Bangkok is definitely worth a visit, is Loi Krathong, a ceremony that honours the water spirits. It occurs during the full moon on the 12th month of the Thai lunar calendar and offers a truly unique experience. It consists of an offertory of gifts placed on the river in small, floating trays made out of banana tree trunks. The ceremony is complemented by lighting Khom Fai, rice paper lanterns with candles, and releasing them into the air. Hundreds of thousands of lanterns floating up into the night skies are reminiscent of illuminated jellyfish in dark ocean depths. And finally, a famous Venetian tried to answer the question that many inquisitive persons put to the devout pilgrims to this city. In the Mirandolina, the Mistress of the Inn, Goldoni wrote the following: But where’s the man who can resist a woman when she has time enough to employ her arts? If a man runs away he needn’t fear to be conquered; but let him stay where he stands, let him only listen, let him meet us in the open field, and sooner or later ∑ in spite of himself ∑ he can’t help yielding. n

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■ IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS

VI©EGLASJE POLYPHONY THE FLOWER, SPEAKING IN THE FIRST PERSON 124

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Piše/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos Saša Šekoranja

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U Ilici, jednoj od najstarijih zagrebaËkih ulica, u srediπtu grada, u neposrednoj blizini popularnog Britanca, nalazi se Ëudesan mali lokal. Slikar, ljubitelj, poznavatelj i umjetnik cvijeÊa Saπa ©ekoranja usudio se odabrati, posluπati svoje srce i Ëiniti ono πto voli. Tri su izloga predstavljena u jednoj od sedam tematskih soba ©ekoranjine izloæbe Viπeglasje, koja se od 19. studenoga 2013. do 26. sijeËnja 2014. odræava u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt. There is a delightful and unusual little florist shop in Ilica, one of Zagreb’s oldest streets. Painter Saπa ©ekoranja opened it in the very heart of the city, close to the popular British Square. As a painter, an aficionado and connoisseur of flowers, and a flower artist, Saπa ©ekoranja has dared to make a choice; having listened to his heart he has decided to do what he likes the most. Three shop windows are on display in one of the seven themed rooms during ©ekoranja’s exhibition Polyphony which take place between 19 November 2013 and 26 January 2014 at the Museum of Arts and Crafts. 126

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a mjestu nekadaπnje obiteljske trgovine koju joπ pamte stariji ZagrepËani, akademski slikar Saπa ©ekoranja otvorio je neobiËnu cvjeÊarnicu. Na radost svih redovitih prolaznika, rijeË je o pravoj, iako siÊuπnoj, umjetniËkoj galeriji u kojoj se postav mijenja otprilike jedanput tjedno. ToËnije bi moæda bilo reÊi, rijeË je o galeriji ∑ izlogu. Slikarevo umijeÊe, njegov nadahnuti dodir, ono je πto na toj osebujnoj sceni, s nevelikom staklenom frontom prema uæurbanoj ulici, pjeπacima, automobilima i tramvajima, tvori razliku izmeu obiËnog buketa i cvjetne instalacije, izmeu dekoracije i umjetniËkog djela, usluge i kreacije, tihog obrta i prave, nepatvorene umjetnosti kakvu doæivite poput udarca u pleksus, ostajuÊi bez daha pred skromnim izlogom u dugome iliËkome nizu. CvjeÊarnica je to u koju nikad ne morate uÊi, u Ëijem straænjem dijelu ne morate nikada niπta naruËiti, a ipak ste pred njom pozvani sudjelovati u uvijek novoj priËi. Javna veza umjetnika i cvijeÊa nije, dakako, niπta novo. Samorazumljiva je oËaranost raznolikoπÊu i ljepotom biljnoga svijeta. Cvijet je oduvijek modelom i protagonistom mnogog remek-djela. Tko ne poznaje Van Goghove sunËanoæute suncokrete, πarenilo zatajnih zijevalica pokraj knjige na njegovu stolu ili plavetnilo irisa kojim je kuπao usporiti svoj sunovrat prema rastrojstvu. Tko ne poznaje Monetove lopoËe, oslikane prema pravim vodenim cvjetovima mirnog jezerca vlastitoga vrta u Givernyju, koje i danas izgleda isto kao u danima kad ga je majstor prenosio na platno. Sam Monet znao je reÊi da to πto je postao slikar, duguje cvijeÊu. Boticellijeva cvjetna livada po kojoj koraËa sámo ProljeÊe, Fantin Latourove vaze s prezrelim starinskim ruæama, Klimtov raskoπan vrt svih moguÊih boja, Matisseove vaze s cvijeÊem æestokih kolorita, stari majstori, suvremeni slikari, svejedno, rijetko bi se naπao onaj koji barem jednom nije odgovorio privlaËnosti cvjetnih oblika i boja, nabijenih znaËenjima, simbolima ili tek oteæalih ljepotom. Octave Mirbeau u svom Vrtu muka govori o perverziji cvijeÊa koje se prepuπta strasti i samo strasti, vodeÊi ljubav stalno i na sve moguÊe naËine, ne misleÊi ni na πta drugo, πtujuÊi jedini zakon æivota, jedinu stvarnu æivotnu potrebu ∑ ljubav. Ono sámo nije nego reproduktivni organ ∑ sve te divne latice, te svile i barπuni, te meke, ﬁne, njeæne teksture, tek su zastori loænice, zavjese braËne sobe, mirisni leæaj na kojem se sjedinjuje i pari. Govori Mirbeau i o svetome kineskom kultu njegovanja cvijeÊa i imenima koja ondje nadijevaju raskoπnim carskim boæurima opojna mirisa, nazivajuÊi pojedinu vrstu Djevojkom koja nudi svoje dojke, CROATIA AIRLINES

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Prvom æeljom padajuÊe djevice ili Posjedovao sam svoju ljubavnicu u vrtu... Prema Kuranu, cvijeÊe je hrana duπi. Svetom Ivanu od Kriæa buket cvijeÊa slika je duhovnog savrπenstva, cvijet sám prikaz duπevnih vrlina. U tantriËko-taoistiËkom simbolizmu zlatni je cvijet eliksir æivota. U zenbudistiËkoj Cvjetnoj propovijedi Buddha, bez ijedne rijeËi, pokazuje svojim uËenicima cvijet ∑ umjesto svakoga govora i svakog uËenja, to je primjer savrπenstva koje valja postiÊi, uzorak nepogreπivosti prirode. Cvijet je saæetak æivotnog ciklusa, Boæji nakit svijeta, simbol poËetka, djetinjstva, rajske ljepote. RomantiËarima, poput Novalisa, sinonim je ljubavi i sklada. No, ni ondje gdje je dobro, gdje je sklad i æivot, niti zlo, nesklad i smrt nisu daleko, znaju pjesnici, ali i svi strastveni vrtlari. VjeËiti nezadovoljnik Baudelaire, rastrgan izmeu ideala i razvrata, svojim oksimoronskim ∑ i æivotom i pjesniπtvom (jer poezija je nevina i zla poput prirode, reÊi Êe Yourcenar) piπe CvijeÊe zla, pjeva o depresivnom savrπenstvu, ali i porocima iz kojih izrasta najËistija ljepota, piπe zatim Himnu ljepoti nazivajuÊi je grdobom, groznom i prokletom. Jedan od osam besmrtnika kineske mitologije, Lan Cai-He, prikazuje se uvijek s koπarom cvijeÊa, simbolom zemaljskih uæitaka, koje svojom prolaznoπÊu, kratkoÊom æivota i draæesti, naglaπava njegovu vlastitu besmrtnost. U Kelta, cvijet je metafora nepostojanosti i nestalnosti ljudskog biÊa, Majama je pak miomirisni, Ëedno pravilan cvijet frankopanke simbolom bluda. Na Tahitiju i dalje ga upliÊu u ogrlice dobrodoπlice, na Dalekom ga istoku vezuju sa smrÊu i nose na groblja. Kao i leptiri, cvijeÊe predoËuje umrle duπe i zato ga ne treba trgati, poput Perzefone koju Had ugrabi baπ dok je s prijateljicama brala cvijeÊe na livadi, pa se sad pretvara u Mjesec i za sobom vuËe ostale planete, na uzici, umjesto svojih pasa. Antonio Porchia, kultni argentinski pjesnik i tihi, samotni vrtlar zapisao je: Las ﬂores no tienen esperanza. Porque la esperanza es mañana y las ﬂores no tienen mañana. CvijeÊe nema nadu. Jer nada je sutra, a cvijeÊe nema sutra. Istina je: svaki je cvijet u cvjeÊarnici drastiËno mrtav. Svaka je moÊna sablja stare agave odsjeËena, svaka soËna stapka amarilisa prerezana, svaki ruæin pupoljak iskrvaren i bez æivota, iako Êe se u vazi joπ neko vrijeme mehaniËki otvarati, ne gubeÊi ljepotu, naprotiv. Poput alegorijske Blakeove Bolesne ruæe Ëiji raskoπan grimiz oblijeÊe nevidljivi crv niπteÊi je svojom tamnom ljubavlju. I tu negdje, gdje se Eros sudbonosno pretapa u Tanathos, gdje cvijeÊe prestaje biti dekoracijom, a ljepota se njegova gubi, suπi i razlaæe u prah, gdje je miris raskoπnih buketa jednak onome vijenaca u mrtvaËnici, za Saπu ©ekoranju biljka postaje 128

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medijem kojim Êe izraziti sebe, svoj stav, svoj svijet. Meditativni svijet samotnjaËkih πetnji Tuπkancem, Cmrokom, Dubravkinim putem, zagrebaËkim πumama u kojima svakodnevno otkriva nove vizure, nezrelo zelenilo proljetnog listanja ili gustu, baroknu raskoπ zlatne jeseni, ondje gdje se svjetlo kroπnjama uvijek iznova drugaËije prelama, a πuma odiπe vlagom, plijesni, mudroπÊu i spokojem raanja i umiranja onako kako to veÊ zna priroda, prva muza, ishodiπno nadahnuÊe ovog zaljubljenika u zemlju iz koje raa jednom baËeno sjeme i kamo se neumitno vraÊa otpalo liπÊe. Iz tih πuma gradom nosi granje i korijenje za svoje instalacije, a prolaznici se Ëude njegovom neobiËnom, misle, nelijepom teretu. Tu Êe gomilu granja zatim reducirati pa dodavati, onda ponovno reducirati, dopustiti napokon da se iz igre, igre skrivaËa i ljubavi, posve spontano, posve nepretenciozno, dogodi viπeglasje, trajni razgovor prirode, cvijeÊa i umjetnosti, razmjena bez granica, u kojoj se teπko razabire gdje poËinje jedno i zavrπava drugo. Tri su izloga predstavljena u jednoj od sedam tematskih soba ©ekoranjine izloæbe Viπeglasje, koja se od 19. studenoga 2013. do 26. sijeËnja odræava u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt. Kustosica izloæbe, dr.sc. Arijana KoprËin, zapisala je; PrateÊi æivotni ciklus bilja, Saπa ©ekoranja kreira uz neprestano traæenje, ne usmjerava se na ciljano promiπljanje ili samo na koncept. Najvaænija je igra, sam proces stvaranja, eksperiment. Koncept proizlazi naknadno ∑ prepoznavanjem, razumijevanjem i iπËitavanjem zavrπenog rada. Ekspresivni, brzi rad s biljem omoguÊava svakodnevnu komunikaciju na izgled jednostavnim, iako zapravo kompleksnim instalacijama kojima komunicira s

prolaznicima; mnogi od njih zastanu privuËeni jedinstvenim cvjeÊarskim izlogom pridonoseÊi tako pretvaranju monologa instalacije iza staklenog izloga u dijalog s promatraËem. ©ekoranjina estetika ide mnogo dalje od uobiËajenog poklonstva ljepoti. On ljepotu vidi sveobuhvatnom, vidi je svugdje, u cigli obrasloj mahovinom, u πuπtavom liπÊu, u kiπi koja natapa πumu, otpalim, ljepljivim bobama imele, u mrtvoj ptici, Ëak i u mrtvom πtakoru jednom izloæenom u crnom izlogu pokraj baroknog zastora i cvijeÊa. Nije to samo dosjetka ili morbidan pokus s publikom ∑ hoÊe li promatraË vidjeti samo ono πto oËekuje poput cvijeÊa i ukrasa ∑ ili Êe dramu prezrenog stvora, njegovo beæivotno tijelo, povezati s drugom smrÊu, onom cvjetnom, koja se istodobno odvija, jednako javno, ali povrπnima manje oËigledno. Ona sluæi tome da objasni kako se, na posljetku, sve izjednaËava. Posjetiteljima izloæbe, datumski smjeπtene usred zime, kad u prirodi cvijeÊa viπe nema, kad se Ëak i drveÊe odmara, bit Êe ponuena dodatna prilika za odgrtanje te zanemarene ili samo nevidljive ljepote ∑ poput one u herbarijima meu Ëijim je stranicama suha ljuπtura, kostur nekadaπnje soËne biljke, ispreπane u puki artefakt, iz Ëijeg se opisa moæe samo naslutiti kakva je bila stvarna i æiva, kojih boja i mirisa. Pokazat Êe ljepotu, nevidljivu poput one u staklenicima, kad se ljeti pokrovima zaπtite od prejaka sunca, pa se izvana nikako ne vidi πto u njima cvate. Ima li smisla ljepota, ima li smisla umjetnost koju nitko ne vidi, poput raskoπne ruæe koja cvate u zanemarenom kutu vrta, pita ©ekoranja. Ali, ljepota je sklad, a sklad je u prirodi uvijek, u æivom i neæivom, u vidljivom i nevienom, on postoji bez obzira na

publiku, takav sudbonosan i savrπeno skrojen, u arhitekturi ptiËjega gnijezda, u upornom i strpljivom brπljanu koji sve obrasta i svime ovladava, u binarnom sustavu strπljenova gnijezda, abortiranom æivotu nikad posaenih lukovica, u reπetki onoga istoga granja prikupljenoga usput, u πetnji. Ljepota je, uËi nas ©ekoranja, u prirodi, u mirisu zemlje, pjevu ptica, u pulsirajuÊem æivotu, svejednako u njegovu kraju. Priroda je ©ekoranjina prava religija. On se s prirodom ne nadmeÊe jer zna da se s njome nitko ne moæe nadmetati. Iskuπava tek oponaπati je, dopunjavati, prenositi u sliku, joπ bolje u prostor. I to je ono πto ©ekoranja, slikar koji bi volio biti tek vrtlarom i seljakom, Ëini. Njegove slike i njegovi aranæmani ne unose se u prostor poput predmeta, oni i nisu predmeti, oni su sâm prostor jer se s njime sjedinjuju, postajuÊi mu prevaænim, nerijetko srediπnjim dijelom. ©ekoranja, naime, intervenira u cjelinu,

u sâm interijer, katkad eksterijer, pretvara ih u æeljenu scenograﬁju, pozornicu koja je veÊ sebi svrha, na naËin koji nije ni cvjeÊarski niti dekoraterski, nego slikarski i autorski. I tako onda i svojim suhim biljkama vraÊa i produæuje æivot. ©tujuÊi njihovo organsko propadanje, dopuπta im da budu besmrtno, jedinstveno umjetniËko djelo. Crteæ, kao osnova ©ekoranjinog rada, njegov je govor, artikulacija, stvarni vektor kojim produljuje i nadomjeπta postojanje bilja, nastavljajuÊi ga pomalo nesigurnom crtom, kao u prirodi, na drhtavu stabljiku cvijeta, na otpali list, na granËicu imele koja probija podlogu pa se crteæom nastavlja i na drugoj strani, postajuÊi motiv i izvoriπte. Nadovezuje se tako na papir, pa joπ dalje, na zid, na stol, u prostor kao neodvojiv dio instalacije. PojaËat Êe ©ekoranja taj crteæ i ponekom rijeËju, ispisanom nevinim, još djeËjim rukopisom. MinimalistiËki, gotovo asketski, bojom Êe se CROATIA AIRLINES

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koristiti strogo, disciplinirano, smireno, s pijetetom prema svojim svenulim modelima. Gotovo da nije moguÊe doslovnije zabiljeæiti neumoljivu tragiku prolaznosti, senzualnu ljepotu cikliËkog klijanja, bujanja, cvatnje, zatim ploenja, zrenja, rasipanja sjemena i, napokon, propadanja. Rekao bi Andersenov leptir: samo æivjeti nije dovoljno ∑ treba imati i malo SunËeva sjaja, slobode i poneki cvijetak. I doista, πto bi Ëovjeku, poput ©ekoranje i onih koji razumiju i vole njegovu umjetnost, na kraju dana joπ moglo trebati - osim mirisnog vrta kojim bi nesmetano mogli koraËati i u miru, lako i jednostavno, posve potonuti u misli. ■

n the location of a former family store which is still fondly remembered by somewhat older citizens of Zagreb, painter Saπa ©ekoranja opened an unusual florist shop. To the great joy of regular passers-by, the flower shop presents itself as a real, albeit minuscule, art gallery whose display changes approximately once a week. Instead of calling it just a shop, it would be more accurately described as a gallery in a window shop. His skill as a painter and the inspiration with which he touches the objects on display in this remarkable diorama, whose rather small glass frontage faces the bustle of the street with its pedestrians, cars and trams, are the things that make the difference between a common bunch of flowers and a floral installation, between a decoration and a work of art, between a silent craft and genuine art which hits you in the plexus and leaves you standing breathless in front of the humble shop window in the long row of shops in Ilica. This is a rare kind of flower shop indeed. You do not need to ever enter it; you do not have to order anything from the back of the shop, and yet, while standing in front of it, you are invited to participate in its story, always fresh and new. Certainly, there is nothing new about the love that has always existed between artists and flowers. The fascination with the diversity and beauty that exists in the world of plants is self-explanatory. Flowers have always been used as models and thus feature heavily as protagonists in many masterpieces. Who is not familiar with Van Gogh’s sunny sunflowers, the multicoloured patchwork of unassuming snapdragons next to a book on his desk, or the blueness of the irises with which he tried to slow down his demise towards insanity? Who does not know Monet’s lotuses, painted based on the real water flowers on the calm pond in his own garden in Giverny which still looks the same as it did in the days when the old master transported it onto canvas? 130

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Monet himself used to say that he owed his career to flowers. Botticelli’s floral meadow with Spring itself walking on it, Fantin Latour’s vases with overripe roses, Klimt’s lush garden with an explosion of colours, Matisse’s vases with flowers painted in raw and bold colours; old masters, contemporary painters, it does not matter; few and far between are those that have never responded to the attraction of floral shapes and colours, rife with meanings and symbols, or just over flowing with beauty. In his novel Torture Garden, Octave Mirbeau speaks about the perversion of flowers which abandon themselves to passion and passion alone, always making love in every possible way and not thinking of anything else, respecting the only law of life, the only real need in life ∑ love. He says: Why, flowers are violent, cruel, terrible, splendid...like love. Flowers themselves are nothing but an organ of reproduction: all those lovely petals, those silks and velvets, those soft, fine, delicate textures are nothing but the drapes of a boudoir, curtains of a marital bedroom, a fragrant bed used for coupling and uniting. Mirbeau also

speaks about the cult status that flowers enjoy in China and the names the Chinese give to the sumptuous and intoxicating royal peonies, calling them The Young Girl Who Offers Her Breasts, The First Desire of the Reclining Virgin or I Possessed My Lover in the Garden... According to the Koran, flowers are food for the soul. For St. John of the Cross, a bunch of flowers was the image of spiritual perfection, and the flower itself a representation of spiritual virtues. In tantric-Taoist symbolism, a gold flower is the elixir of life. In the ZenBuddhist Flower Sermon, Buddha gives a wordless sermon to his disciples ∑ instead of using words and teachings he shows them a flower as if saying: this is an example of the perfection one should achieve, an example of infallible nature. A flower is a succinct expression of the life cycle; jewels bestowed by God upon this world, the symbol of the beginning, childhood and heavenly beauty. To romantics, such as Novalis, it is synonymous with love and harmony. However, even at places where good reigns, where there is harmony and life, evil, discord

and death are never far away. Poets know that, and so do passionate gardeners. The eternally malcontent Baudelaire, torn between ideals and debauchery, wrote the Flowers of Evil with his oxymoronic life and poetry (because poetry is both innocent and evil, like nature, says Yourcenar); he sung about depressive perfection, but also about the vices which give rise to the purest of all beauties, and then he also wrote his Hymn to Beauty wherein he calls it a tremendous monster, infernal and divine at the same time. One of the eight immortals in Chinese mythology, Lan Cai-He, is always depicted with a basket full of flowers, a symbol of earthly delights; they highlight his immortality with their ephemerality, brevity of life and charm. For Celts, a flower is a metaphor of the inconsistency and vicissitude of human beings. Mayan people considered the fragrant and unpretentiously symmetrical frangipani flower the symbol of lust. On the Islands of Tahiti, they are still used in odorous welcome wreaths; in the Far East they are associated with death and taken to cemeteries. In one way flowers are like butterflies: they should not be picked because they represent dead souls like the one which belongs to Persephone who was abducted by Hades while she was picking flowers in a meadow with her friends, and now she turns into the Moon and leads other planets on a string, instead of her dogs. Antonio Porchia, a cult Argentine poet and a quiet, lonely gardener, wrote: Las flores no tienen esperanza. Porque la esperanza es mañana y las flores no tienen mañana. The flowers have no hope. Because hope is tomorrow, and flowers do not have a tomorrow. The truth is: every flower in a flower shop is drastically dead. Each powerful blade of an old agave plant has been hacked, every succulent amaryllis pedicle was cut off, every rosebud bled of its life, although it will continue to open in a vase, mechanically, for a short while, without losing its beauty, just the opposite. Like Blake’s allegoric Sick Rose, whose sumptuous crimson beauty is circled by an invisible worm and destroyed by its dark love. Somewhere in this place, where Eros is doomed to become Tanathos, where flowers stop serving as decorations and their beauty fades, where they dry and crumble into dust, where lavish bouquets exude the same fragrance as wreaths in a morgue, Saπa ©ekoranja uses plants as a medium for expressing himself, his attitude, his world. His meditative solitary strolls take him to Tuπkanac, Cmrok, Dubravkin Put, through the forests around Zagreb where daily he discovers new vistas, young spring greenery and the dense baroque luxury of golden autumn; to the places where light always fragments differently

through the tree tops and where forests smell of humidity, must, wisdom, the serenity of birth and death, in nature’s unique way, nature being the first muse, the initial inspiration for this devotee of the earth from which seeds spring and to which fallen leaves unfailingly return. From these forests he brings branches and roots back into the city to use them in his installations, while passers-by wonder at the sight of his unusual, and in their eyes, unsightly burden. The heap of branches will end up being reduced or added to, and then reduced again and finally allowed to become a game, the game of hide and seek and love, quite spontaneously and unpretentiously, to yield a singing harmony, a continuing dialogue between nature, flowers and art, an exchange without borders in which it is hard to discern where one starts and the other ends. Three shop windows are on display in one of the seven themed rooms during ©ekoranja’s exhibition Polyphony which take place between 19 November 2013 and 26 January 2014 at the Museum of Arts and Crafts. The exhibition’s curator, Arijana KoprËina, D.Sc. has written: In his pursuit of the life cycle of plants, Saπa ©ekoranja creates and goes on searching for more; his work is not a product of tunnelled vision, or a simple concept. What matters the most is the game, the creation process itself, the experiment. A concept emerges in the process ∑ through recognition, understanding, reading and re-reading of the finished work. An expressive, fast work with plants enables daily communication through ostensibly simple, but actually complex installations which make it possible for him to communicate with passersby; many of them will be drawn by the unique flower shop window, they will stop and thus contribute to the process of transforming the monologue of the installation behind the glass partition into a dialogue with the observer. ©ekoranja’s aesthetics goes far beyond the common reverence of beauty. For him, beauty is comprehensive; he sees it everywhere, in a brick overgrown with moss, in the fluttering of the leaves, in the rain which soaks the forest, in the fallen, sticky mistletoe berries, in a dead bird or even the dead rat that he once put on display in the black shop window next to a baroque curtain and flowers. It was not just a ruse or a morbid experiment with the audience ∑ a ploy staged to find out whether the observers would see only what they expect to see, flowers and decorations, or whether they would actually establish a link between the lifeless body of the despised creature and the simultaneous dying of the flowers, equally public, but not as obvious. This death serves to make it clear that at the end of the day there is no difference.

The exhibition takes place in the middle of the winter, when there are no ﬂowers in nature, when even the trees rest, and so visitors will be offered an additional opportunity to uncover the beauty which is neglected or perhaps only invisible ∑ for example a dry shell, the skeleton of a former succulent plant, pressed and reduced to a mere artefact between the leaves of a herbarium. Its description is a mere suggestion as to what the plant really looked like when it was real and alive, how it smelled and what colour it was. It will show beauty, as imperceptible as the beauty hidden in the glass houses whose panes are covered in the summer to protect the plants inside from the scorching heat so one cannot discern from the outside what grows within. ©ekoranja makes us ponder the purpose of beauty or art that nobody sees and wonders if it makes any sense at all; is it like a luxurious rose which ﬂowers in the furthermost corner of a garden? Be as it may, beauty is harmony, and there is

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always harmony in nature, both in the animate and inanimate, in things visible and those never seen, harmony exists irrespective of the presence of an audience, fateful and perfectly tailored like in the architecture of a bird’s nest, in the stubborn and patient ivy which covers everything and overpowers all, in the binary system of a hornet’s nest, in the aborted life of the tubers that are never planted, in the grid of those same branches that were collected along the way, during a stroll. ©ekoranja teaches us that beauty is in nature, in the smell of the earth, in the birds’ song, in the pulsating life, even at the moment when that life reaches its end. Nature is ©ekoranja’s true religion. He does not compete with nature because he knows that nobody is a match for nature. He tries to imitate it, supplement it, transfer it onto a painting, or better still, into space. This is what ©ekoranja, a painter who would be a mere gardener or peasant, does. His paintings and his ﬂower arrangements are not thrown into space like objects; they are not objects, they are the space itself because they merge with it, while becoming its extremely important, if not central part. ©ekoranja’s interventions affect the interior as a whole, sometimes even the exterior, they transform them into a desired setting, a stage which serves its own purpose and functions not as a ﬂorist’s or decorator’s creation, but rather as an author’s work of art. And thus, he restores his dry plants’ life and prolongs it. By respecting their organic

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decay, he allows them to become immortal, unique works of art. Drawing, as the basis of ©ekoranja’s work, is his speech and articulation, the true vector with which he extends and replaces the existence of plants, he continues it just like nature would with a somewhat unsure line that goes on to a trembling flower stem, a fallen tree, a mistletoe twig which pierces the background and continues on the other side, thus becoming both the motif and the source. It continues onto the paper, and further still, onto the wall, the table, into the space as an inseparable element of the installation. ©ekoranja sometimes enhances that drawing with a word, written in an innocent, child’s handwriting. He uses colour sparsely, almost ascetically, in a disciplined and calm manner, showing piety towards his wilted models. It is almost impossible to be more precise in recording the merciless tragedy of transience, the sensual beauty of the cycle of springing, flourishing, then fertilization, maturing, seed dissemination and finally decay. To quote the words of Andersen’s butterfly: But it is not enough merely to exist, said he, I need freedom, sunshine, and a little flower for a companion. Indeed, what else might a man like ©ekoranja, and those who understand and appreciate his art, need but a fragrant garden where they could walk in an undisturbed peace and become completely immersed in their own thought amidst that peace and quiet? ■

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Ili su se priroda i druπtvo posve promijenili, ili nisu svi medvjedi isti! Jer, dok neki uredno ovih dana spavaju svoj zimski san, velika, snaæna, moÊna grupa Medvjeda piπe joπ jedno poglavlje jedne od najljepπih hrvatskih sportskih priËa. Either both nature and society have completely changed, or not all bears are the same. While some duly hibernate these days, as

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another chapter in one of the most beautiful Croatian sports stories.

ni su, dakako, hokejaπi KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, sportaπi od glave do pete, majstori zbog kojih se za hokejaške utakmice u vreloj Ledenoj dvorani Doma sportova i Areni Zagreb traæi karta viπe. No, ova je sezona ipak osobita. Jer, nakon Ëetiri godine provedene u regionalnom EBEL-u, Medvjedi su dio elitnoga druπtva, moÊnog KHL-a, ponajjaËe svjetske lige. Daleki gradovi, vrhunske ruske hokejaπke ekipe, kilometri i kilometri putovanja i nevjerojatna strast na ledu i na tribinama, to je danas MedveπËakova stvarnost. Ono πto se prije koju godinu samo nekolicini entuzijasta u vodstvu kluba Ëinilo moguÊim, danas je i te kako stvarnost. Hrvati i njihovi susjedi gledaju vrhunski hokej, baπ kao πto vrhunsku izvedbu Medvjeda ∑ najbolje debitantske ekipe πto ju je KHL ikad vidio ∑ danas gleda publika vrhunskih momËadi KHL-a iz osam zemalja s više od 235, 000.000 stanovnika. A ne tako davno Ëinilo se kako od hokeja u hrvatskoj metropoli, paËe u Hrvatskoj, neÊe biti niπta. Ali jedan je Ëovjek zamislio posve drugi scenarij. Damir GojanoviÊ predsjednik je KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, ali niπta manje nije vaæno ni to da je i on kao igraË nosio dres MedvesËaka, onaj s brojem 18, i bio hrvatski hokejaπki reprezentativac. ∑ SjeÊam se 2009. godine kada su mnogi sumnjali u moju priËu kako Êemo MedveπËaku

vratiti staru slavu i kako Êe jednog dana zaigrati u velikoj meunarodnoj hokejskoj ligi. Tada nisam moæda pomiπljao na KHL, no viπe od ovoga za nas ne postoji i to je vrh do kojega ijedan klub izvan sjeverne ameriËke moæe doÊi. Dakako, dotle nas je dovela vizija svih ljudi u timu okupljenome oko MedveπËaka, koji su zajedniËki svih ovih godina hrabro i ponosno vodili klub. Naravno, tu su i navijaËi, bez Ëije ljubavi i podrπke klubu nisam siguran da bi danas bili ovdje. Da nema te energije s tribina, vjerujem da ne bismo imali razloge svake sezone biti sve bolji i sve moÊniji i danas uæivati u ovome πto imamo ∑ kazuje GojanoviÊ. NavijaËi! NavijaËi i spektakl. NavijaËi, spektakl i vrhunski hokej! Winter Classic na gradskom klizaliπtu ©alata, hokejaški spektakli Arena Ice Fever pred 15.200 gledatelja, utakmice hokeja na ledu u rimskom 2000 godina starom amﬁteatru u Puli. I to je MedveπËak. Igranje u KHL-u sve to diæe na joπ viπu razinu koja bi morala biti zanimljiva i hrvatskim gospodarstvenicima. Dovoljno je znati da je doseg KHL TV-a 64,500.000 gledatelja po sezoni! Ali svega toga ne bi bilo da te 2009. godine vrhunski igraËi nisu u pozivu Damira GojanoviÊa prepoznali vrhunski izazov. Alan Letang, kapetan momËadi KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, jedini je igraË u danaπnjoj postavi koji je od prvog dana novog MedveπËaka u klubu i jedan od prvih stranaca koji je 2009. potpisao za MedveπËak i pristao doÊi u Zagreb. Bila je to pustolovina, koja se i te kako isplatila. ∑ Kada su mi ljeti 2009. ponudili da doem igrati u Zagreb, iskreno sam razmiπljao da se netko πali, nisam ni znao da u Hrvatskoj postoji hokej. Ali entuzijazam kojim su mi predstavili projekt MedveπËaka nije me ostavio ravnoduπnim. Iskreno, nisam poæalio ni trenutka tu odluku o dolasku u MedveπËak i Hrvatsku, no jednako

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tako nisam mogao ni sanjati da Êemo danas igrati u moÊnom KHL-u. Hrvatska me oduπevila u svakom segmentu; kvaliteta æivota, naπi navijaËi, povijest, kultura, priroda, gastronomija, obala, ali i ljubaznost i otvorenost lokalnih ljudi ∑ istiËe Letang. MedveπËak, navijaËi, Zagreb, Hrvatska. A na povratku iz gradova delekih na tisuÊe kilometara, momci s medvjedom na prsima, odakle god da su u Zagreb doπli, znaju da dolaze kuÊi Ëim zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa kotaËima dotakne pistu zagrebaËkog aerodroma. ∑ Za mene je svaki ulazak u zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa svojevrsni povratak kuÊi. Em πto se u zrakoplovu CA osjeÊam kao kod kuÊe, em πto me svojom ponudom, jezikom, ljubaznoπÊcu CA osoblja sve podsjeÊa na Hrvatsku, em πto se s CA vraÊamo kuÊi s naπih sportskih putovanja po Rusiji ∑ priznaje Saπa MartinoviÊ, braniË KHL MedveπËaka, koji je svojim uspjeπnim nastupima za Medvjede u EBEL-u izborio svoje mjesto i u MedveπËakovoj KHL momËadi. Ako su Ëelnici KHL-a ikada i dvojili je li MedveπËak klub za ruska klizaliπta, nakon briljantnih MedveπËakovih pobjeda, dvojbi viπe nema. Samo, gdje su granice ovog velikog projekta i ove lijepe sportske priËe!? ∑ U sportu danas ne postoje granice! I ne smiju, niti bi smjele postojati, nego uvijek treba teæiti neËem veÊem, uspjeπnijem, savrπenijem, i to iskljuËivo na poπten naËin. Moja je æelja ostvarena ∑ u Zagrebu uæivamo u vrhunskom hokeju i vrhunskim momËadima u kojima igraju neki od najveÊih i najboljih hokejaπa danaπnjice. Sve viπe od toga bit Êe nagrada za sav trud svih onih koji su svih ovih posljednjih godina vjerovali u naπu viziju i naπ klub ∑ poruËuje GojanoviÊ. Ili su se priroda i druπtvo posve promijenili, ili nisu svi medvjedi isti! Jer, dok neki uredno ovih dana spavaju svoj zimski san, velika, snaæna, moÊna

Fotograﬁje/Photos MDV press/Igor Šoban

bears should, one powerful, mighty group of bears is drafting yet

grupa medvjeda piπe joπ jedno poglavlje jedne od najljepπih hrvatskih sportskih priËa. Zig-Zag MedveπËak! ■ hey are the hockey players of the KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, athletes from head to toe, masters of the game who always sell out the hot Ice Hall in the Dom Sportova Sports Hall. However, this season will be somewhat special. After having played for four years in the regional EBEL, the Bears are now members of an elite society, the powerful KHL, the strongest hockey league in the world. Distant cities, top Russian hockey teams, kilometres and kilometres of travel and an amazing passion on the ice and in the auditorium, this is MedveπËak’s reality today. What a handful of enthusiasts in the club’s management saw as a possibility only a few years ago, is indeed a reality today. Croats and their neighbours watch top hockey, while the supreme performances of the Croatian Bears ∑ the best debutant team that the KHL has ever seen ∑ is now watched by the supporters of the top KHL teams from 8 countries which together have over 235 million inhabitants. And not so long ago, it seemed that hockey in the Croatian capital, in all of Croatia for that matter, had no future. One man, however, had a completely different scenario planned. Damir GojanoviÊ, President of the KHL MedveπËak Zagreb, and none the less impor-

tant is a former MedveπËak player who bore number 18 on his shirt and was a former player of the Croatian national team. ∑ I remember the year 2009 when many had doubts when I said that we would reinstate MedveπËak’s old glory and that the team would one day play in a big international hockey league. At the time, I may not have been thinking of the KHL, but this is the top for us, the highest achievement for any team outside of North America. Obviously, we owe that to the vision of all the people who worked in the MedveπËak team, who have worked hard all these years, and who have run the club with courage and pride. We should not forget our followers without whose love and support we would not be where we are today. I do not think we would have a good reason to be better and more powerful every new season and enjoy the fruit of our success today without that energy from the stands, says GojanoviÊ. Supporters! Supporters and the spectacle! Supporters, the spectacle and top hockey. The Winter Classic at the ©alata city ice rink, the hockey spectacles Arena Ice Fever before 15,200 spectators, the ice hockey games in the 2000 year old Roman amphitheatre in Pula ∑ that is also MedveπËak. Playing in the KHL raises all of that to an even higher level which should attract the attention of the Croatian corporate world. It sufﬁces to know that the KHL attracts an audience of 64.5 million television viewers every season! All of this would not exist if in 2009 the top players had not recognized a challenge in Damir GojanoviÊ’s invitation. Alan Letang, the KHL MedveπËak Zagreb team captain is the only player in the current roster who has been with new MedveπËak from day one and he was one of the ﬁrst foreigners who signed with MedveπËak in 2009 and agreed to move

to Zagreb. It was an adventure which has certainly paid off. - When they offered me to come to play in Zagreb in the summer of 2009, honestly, I thought that it was a prank. I did not even know that there was hockey in Croatia. However, the enthusiasm with which they presented the MedveπËak project did not leave me indifferent. Not for a moment have I regretted the decision to join MedveπËak and move to Croatia, but at the time I could not even dream that some day we would be playing in the mighty KHL. Croatia is delightful in every segment: the quality of life, our supporters, history, culture, nature, gastronomy, the coast, and the kindness and openness of the local people, says Letang. MedveπËak, supporters, Zagreb, Croatia. And on returning from whatever distant city, thousands of kilometres away from Zagreb, the lads with a bear on their chest know that they are home as soon as the wheels of their Croatia Airlines aircraft touch the runway at Zagreb Airport. ∑ For me, just getting on a Croatia Airlines aircraft feels like going home. Being onboard a Croatia Airlines aircraft is like being at home already; the offer on board, the language and the kindness of the CA staff all remind me of Croatia; and last, but not least, CA takes us back to Croatia from our sport travels through Russia, says Saπa MartinoviÊ, a defender on the KHL MedveπËak team who has won his place on the MedveπËak KHL team with his successful appearances for the Bears in EBEL. If the KHL leaders had ever had any doubts as to whether MedveπËak was a good enough team for Russian ice rinks, after MedveπËak’s brilliant victories those doubts have been dispelled. But, where are the limits of this big project and this beautiful sports story? ∑ Today, there are no limits in sport! And there must not be any, there should not be any. Athletes should always strive for something bigger, more successful, even more perfect, and all that exclusively in an honest way. My wish has come true: in Zagreb, we enjoy top hockey and top teams whose members are some of the biggest and best hockey players there are today. Anything more than that will be a reward for the efforts of all those who have believed in our vision and our team over the past few years, says GojanoviÊ. Either both nature and society have completely changed or not all bears are the same! Because, while some of them duly hibernate these days, as bears indeed should, one big, powerful, mighty group of bears is drafting yet another chapter in one of the most beautiful Croatian sports stories. Zig-Zag MedveπËak! ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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prosinac, »akovec BOÆIΔNI SAJAM - NA TO MLADO LETO/CHRISTMAS FAIR ∑ ON THIS CHRISTMAS DAY VeÊ tradicionalna manifestacija koja se odræava svake godine i na kojoj se predstavlja mnogo izlagaËa, pravih majstora tradicijskih zanata./This already traditional event is held each year and presents a large number of exhibitors; the real masters of traditional crafts. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings

PROSINAC Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 1.12.2013.∑1.1.2014. ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT IN ZAGREB Advent u srcu Zagreba tradicionalna je predblagdanska priredba na srediπnjem zagrebaËkom Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, koja svojim bogatim glazbenim i umjetniËkim programom gostima i graanima grada Zagreba donosi ugoaj adventa i BoæiÊa. Tijekom cijelog prosinca moæete se zabaviti uz razliËite programe./Advent in the heart of Zagreb is a traditional pre-holiday event that takes place on Zagreb’s main square, Ban JelaËiÊ Square. The rich musical and artistic programme brings the spirit of Advent and Christmas to the citizens and guests of Zagreb. You can enjoy a variety of programmes throughout the entire month of December. www.adventzagreb.com 30.11.2013.∑1.1.2014., Zagreb ADVENT NA ZRINJEVCU/ ADVENT ON ZRINJEVEC Kroz aleju platana doÊi Êete do staroga glazbenog paviljona u boæiÊnom, bajkovitom izdanju. OËekuje vas glazbeni program, moguÊnost kupnje unikatnih suvenira i boæiÊnih ukrasa, a moÊi Êete uæivati i u pomalo zaboravljenim zagrebaËkim specijalitetima./Passing through the boulevard of plane trees, you will come to the old concert pavilion decorated like a Christmas wonderland. You can look forward to a musical programme, the opportunity to buy unique souvenirs and Christmas decorations, and you 136

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can also enjoy the almost forgotten Zagreb specialties. 6.-28.12., Zagreb ADVENT NA CVJETNOM TRGU/ ADVENT ON CVJETNI TRG (FLOWER SQUARE) DoËekajte blagdane u ritmu klasike i jazza mladih glazbenika na zagrebaËkom Cvjetnom trgu uz Ëaπu toplog vina s obliænjih πtandova./ Celebrate the holidays to the rhythms of the classics and jazz played by young musicians on Zagreb’s Flower Square while enjoying a glass of mulled wine from the surrounding stands. 6.12.2013.-8.1.2014., Grabovnica BOÆIΔNA PRI»A OBITELJI SALAJ/SALAJ FAMILY CHRISTMAS STORY Nadomak Zagreba, u Grabovnici pokraj »azme, osobit ugoaj i doæi v ljaj blagd a na pr uæit Ê e va m okuÊnica obitelji Salaj. Ukraπena svjetleÊim žaruljicama, pretvara imanje u pravu boæiÊnu bajku./Not far from Zagreb, in Grabovnica near »azma, the Salaj family will provide you with a very special atmosphere and holiday experience. Adorned with ﬂashing lights, their estate has been converted into a true Christmas fairytale. www.bozicnabajka.com

31.12., Fuæine DO»EK NOVE GODINE U FUÆINAMA/NEW YEAR’S EVE IN FUÆINE Originalna manifestacija ispraÊaja stare i doËeka nove godine toËno u podne, u srediπtu Fuæina. Neizostavno kuhano vino i kobasice, domaÊi orkestri i veliki vatromet jamËe vam nezaboravan doËek u tome romantiËnome mjestu uz jezero Bajer./This original event says farewell to the old year and welcomes in the New Year exactly at noon in the centre of Fuæine. The sure-to-be mulled wine and sausages, local orchestras and great ﬁreworks will guarantee you an unforgettable welcome in this romantic village on Lake Bajer. www.tz-fuzine.hr

SIJE»ANJ Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 4.1., Zagreb AUDI FIS SKIJA©KI KUP VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2014/ AUDI FIS SKI WORLD CUP VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2014 Na utrkama na zagrebaËkom Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaπi iz cijeloga svijeta, a svjetska ih javnost redovito stavlja meu najatraktivnije. U tradicionalno dogaanje ukljuËuje se i publika iz srediπta grada. Na Sljemenu i u gradu oËekuje vas dobra zabava i gastronomska ponuda./ The best slalom skiers from around the world will participate in the races on Zagreb’s Sljeme, and the world public regularly places these races among the most attractive. Crowds come from the city centre to par-

ticipate in this traditional event. You can expect good entertainment and a great gastronomic offer on Sljeme and in the city. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr 19.1., Meimurska vinska cesta VINCEKOVO/ ST. VINCENT’S DAY - VINCEKOVO Vincekovo u Meimurju i drugim hrvatskim krajevima oznaËava poËetak vinogradarske godine. Stara je tradicija izvoenja ceremonijala u vinogradima, kojim se osigurava dobar urod vinove loze. Na idiliËnim snjeænim breæuljcima dobru atmosferu pruæaju domaÊi muæikaπi uz kuhano vino i tradicijsku gastronomsku ponudu, jer na Vincekovo ni jedan vinogradar ne smije biti sam pri klijeti./St. Vincent’s Day in Meimurje and the other Croatian regions marks the beginning of the winegrowing year. The tradition of performing a ceremony in the vineyards which ensures a good crop of grapevines is quite old. The local mužikaπi (folk musicians) provide you with a good atmosphere on the idyllic snowy hills along with mulled wine and traditional cuisine as on St. Vincent’s Day no winegrower is allowed to be alone in his cellar. www.tic-strigova.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 19.1., Kutjevo KUTJEVA»KO VINCEKOVO/ ST. VINCENT’S DAY IN KUTJEVO Tradicionalna puËka svetkovina uz blagdan sv. Vinka, zaπtitnika vinogradara, kojom vinogradari kutjevaËkog kraja stoljeÊima obiljeæavaju poËetak rezidbe vinove loze, odræava se na jedinstvenom Trgu graπevine./The traditional folk festival for the Feast of St. Vincent, the patron saint of winegrowers, at which the winegrowers of Kutjevo have been marking the beginning of pruning the grapevines for centuries, is being held on the unique Graπevina Square. www.tz-kutjevo.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 17.1.-5.3., Rijeka RIJE»KI KARNEVAL/RIJEKA CARNIVAL Rijeka je postala glavnim gradom karnevala u Hrvatskoj. Meunarodna

karnevalska povorka kruna je karnevala. Natjecanje je to u maπtovitosti, duhovitosti i originalnosti. Pridruæite se mnoπt v u mask i i pre pustite dobrom raspoloæenju na ulicama naπega primorskoga grada./Rijeka has become the main Carnival city in Croatia. The International Carnival Parade is the Carnival’s crowning moment; a bonanza of imagination, humour and originality. Join the crowd of masks and indulge in the good mood on the streets of our seaside town. 17.1.- Izbor kraljice RijeËkog karnevala i primopredaja kljuËa grada/ Selection of the Queen of the Rijeka Carnival and the handing over of the key of the city 22.2.-DjeËja karnevalska povorka/ Children’s Carnival Parade 2.3.-Meunarodna karnevalska povorka/International Carnival Parade www.ri-karneval.com.hr

VELJA»A Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 6.-9.2., Zagreb ZAGREB CHOCOFEST/ZAGREB CHOCOFEST Na festivalu Êe biti predstavljene najbolje domaÊe i svjetske Ëokolade te najnoviji trendovi u industriji Ëo-

tertainment programme, contests, tastings and promotions ∑ all in the spirit of chocolate. www.zagreb-chocofest.hr 23. 2- 2. 3., Zagreb ZAGREBDOX/ZAGREBDOX U natjecateljskom programu ovoga meunarodnog festivala prikazuju se najbolji autorski i kreativni dokumentarni filmovi snimljeni i producirani u posljednjih godinu dana, s naglaskom na novo u svijetu dokumentarnog filma./The competitive program of this international festival will showcase the best authors and creative documentary films which were shot and produced in the past year with a focus on novelties in the world of documentary film. www.zagrebdox.net

kolade. Bit Êe organiziran i zabavni program, nagradne igre, degustacije i predstavljanja ∑ u znaku Ëokolade./ This festival will present the best local and world chocolates, as well as the latest trends in the chocolate industry. There will also be an en-

21.2. - 4. 3., Samobor SAMOBORSKI FA©NIK/ SAMOBOR CARNIVAL Karneval kojim Samoborci tjeraju zle proπlogodiπnje sile, opraπtaju se od zime i otvaraju proljeÊu i predstojeÊoj godini. Desetak dana ulicama toga lijepoga grada vladaju maπtovite maske i veselje./With this Carnival the people of Samobor chase away the evil forces of last year, bid goodbye to winter and welcome the spring and the coming year. For ten days the streets of this beautiful city are ruled by imaginative masks and merriment. www.fasnik.com www.tz-samobor.hr

veljaËa, »akovec ME–IMURSKI FA©NIK U »AKOVCU/ME–IMURJE CARNIVAL IN »AKOVEC Gotovo u svim veÊim naseljima diljem Meimurja organiziraju se karnevalske povorke, no najveÊa je u srediπtu »akovca, gdje se prikazuju izvorne maske karakteristiËne samo za Meimurje./Almost all the major towns across Meimurje organize a Carnival parade, but the largest is in the centre of »akovec, where you can see the original masks that are typical only of Meimurje. www.tzm.hr Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 2. i 3. 2., Dubrovnik FESTA SV. VLAHA/FESTIVAL OF ST. BLAISE DubrovËani veÊ viπe od tisuÊu godina slave blagdan svoga zaπtitnika sv. Vlaha, na Ëiji dan πirom otvaraju vrata svoga jedinstvenoga grada u kojemu vas oËekuju kulturna i zabavna dogaanja./For over a thousand years, the people of Dubrovnik have been celebrating the day of their patron saint, St. Blaise. On this day, the citizens open the doors to this unique city in which you can look forward to cultural events and entertainment. www.dubrovnik.hr

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on November 30 th. Allow for change after this date.

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 140 NOVOSTI NEWS

142 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 146 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 149 FLOTA FLEET 151 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 153 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 154 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 156 ADRESE ADDRESSES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS gram even faster and easier, now is the time to learn about it: • request the card before 31 December 2013 and the registration fee and membership fee for the ﬁrst year will be waived • we will reward you with 2,000 Miles & More award miles as a welcome gesture • miles collected by using the credit card protect all of the award miles on your Miles & More account from expiring You can request a credit card by ﬁlling in an electronic application at /www.croatiaairlines. com/hr/Miles-and-More or www.diners.hr In addition, with every purchase over 300 kuna until 31.12.2013, you can participate in the Erste Card Club and Croatia Airlines sweepstakes ∑ Kupujem pa putujem! You may be the lucky winner of a return ticket on Croatia Airlines and 1,000 kuna on a Diners Club consumer credit card. MILES & MORE KONTAKT CENTAR

NAJAVA LJETNOG REDA LETENJA

Od 30. oæujka do 25. listopada 2014. godine na snazi Êe biti ljetni red letenja Croatia Airlinesa. Naπi Êe zrakoplovi, u meunarodnom prometu, povezati hrvatske gradove s Atenom i Amsterdamom. Na liniji Split ∑ Atena letjet Êemo subotom, a utorkom Êemo povezivati Dubrovnik i Amsterdam te Pulu i Amsterdam. Osim toga, uvest Êemo joπ jedan let iz Splita u München subotom, kao i dodatni let Ëetvrtkom iz Dubrovnika u Zürich te utorkom iz Dubrovnika u Pariz. SUMMER FLIGHT SCHEDULE ANNOUNCED

The summer flight schedule for Croatia Airlines will come into effect on 30 March and last until 25 October 2014. In terms of international traffic, our aircraft will connect the Croatian cities Athens and Amsterdam. The route Split - Athens will operate on Saturdays, and we will connect Dubrovnik with Amsterdam and Pula with Amsterdam on Tuesdays. In addition, we will add another flight from Split to Munich on Saturdays, as well as another flight

on Thursdays from Dubrovnik to Zurich and on Tuesdays from Dubrovnik to Paris. DINERS CLUB CROATIA AIRLINES KARTICA I/ILI VISA CROATIA AIRLINES KARTICA

Ako joπ niste upoznali kreditne kartice Erste Card Cluba koje vam omoguÊuju joπ bræe i jednostavnije prikupljanje nagradnih milja u programu Miles & More, sad je pravi trenutak: ∑ zatraæite karticu do 31. prosinca 2013. i neÊete platiti upisninu i Ëlanarinu za prvu godinu Ëlanstva ∑ nagradit Êemo vas s 2000 Miles & More nagradnih milja dobrodoπlice ∑ milje prikupljene potroπnjom na kreditnim karticama πtite od isteka valjanosti sve nagradne milje na vaπem raËunu Miles & More Kartice moæete zatraæiti popunjavanjem e-pristupnice na www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/ Miles-and-More ili www.diners.hr Dodatno, svakom kupnjom iznad 300 kuna do 31. 12. 2013. sudjelujete u nagradnoj igri Erste Card Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa ∑ Kupujem pa putujem! Moæda baπ vi osvojite povratnu zrakoplovnu kartu Croatia Arlinesa i dæeparac od 1000 kuna na Diners Club potroπaËkoj kartici! DINERS CLUB CROATIA AIRLINES CREDIT CARD AND/OR VISA CROATIA AIRLINES CREDIT CARD

If you are not already familiar with the Erste Card Club credit card which enables you to collect award miles in the Miles & More pro140

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Broj telefona Miles & More kontakt centra za hrvatsko træiπte 062 220 220 od 1. listopada 2013. g. promijenjen je u 072 220 220. MILES & MORE CONTACT CENTRE

The telephone number for the Miles & More Contact Centre for the Croatian market, 062 220 220, has been changed as of 1 October 2013 to 072 220 220. PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA U MILES & MORE PROGRAMU NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA

Nova pravila za prikupljanje milja u ekonomskom razredu poËinju se primjenjivati od 1. sijeËnja 2014. Promjene se odnose na: ∑ putovanje u Q, V, G, K, O klasi knjiæenja u domaÊem prometu, kojim od 1. sijeËnja 2014. prikupljate 250 milja ∑ putovanje u V, W, S, K klasi knjiæenja u meunarodnom prometu, kojim od 1. sijeËnja 2014. prikupljate 500 milja COLLECTING MILES IN THE MILES & MORE PROGRAM ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

There are new rules for collecting miles in economy class as of 1 January 2014. The changes refer to: ∑ travel in Q, V, G, K, O booking classes on domestic ﬂights, from 1 January 2014, collect 250 miles ∑ travel in V, W, S, K booking classes on international ﬂights, from 1 January 2014, collect 500 miles

Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

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Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt–Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

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Kupujte eksluzivne proizvode u Lufthansa WorldShopu − od sada moguÊa dostava u Hrvatsku! Otkrijte naπ πiroki asortiman zanimljivih proizvoda kao πto su putne torbe i kovËezi, dodatna oprema, elektroniËki ureaji i ostali nezaobilazni proizvodi za putovanje i kuÊu. Posjetite nas na www.worldshop.eu ili u naπim prodavaonicama u zraËnim lukama. Moæete plaÊati gotovinom ili kreditnim karticama te Miles & More nagradnim miljama, a moguÊe je i kombinirati ta dva naËina plaÊanja. Shop for exclusive products at Lufthansa WorldShop − now available for delivery to Croatia! Discover our wide assortment of interesting products such as luggage, accessories, electronics, and other must-haves for on the move or at home. Visit us at www.worldshop.eu or in our airport shops. Available for purchase with cash or credit card, redeemable for Miles & More award miles, or a combination of both.

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najve Êi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe of fering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at tractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the ser vices of many par tners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline par tners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car par tners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Air lines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 ku na = 1 mi lja - za sva kih 5 ku na potro πe nih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvo s tru ke mi lje - osva jate za pla Êa nje tu ri stiËkih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Air lines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mi le - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn do u ble mi les - for paying pac ka ge to urs and ﬂight tickets at Diners Club Travel

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n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda - jednostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvo ji te joπ vi πe mi lja - ko ri πte nje osta lih pogod no sti Di ners Clu ba po put be s plat nih onli ne uslu ga, e-pla Êa nja ili traj nih na lo ga do no si vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar ti ce - 1 ra Ëun Mi les & More - ko ri stite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC of ﬁces in Croatia or abroad

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih kartica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu! n 4 ku ne = 1 nagradna mi lja - za sva ke 4 ku ne potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 mi lja do bro do πli ce - za nove osnov ne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËla nje nje u Pri o rity Pa ss bez nak na de te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mi le - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 wel co me mi les - for new ba sic Pre mi um card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 wel co me mi les - for new ba sic Stan dard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn do u ble award mi les - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of ﬁces and Jumbo Travel Ser vices of PBZ Card. n Free Pri o rity Pa ss enrol lment- it ena bles you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Ra zredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπte njem usluga par tne ra u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Pri vate Jet), SWISS i svi zra koplov ni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Se nator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stje Ëu status HON Cir cle.

Tiers and beneﬁts By using the Miles & More par tners’ ser vices members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (in clu ding Luf thansa Re gi o nal and Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance par tners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Fre quent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

Collect ex tra award miles - by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online ser vices, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

2 cre dit car ds - 1 Miles & Mo re mem ber ship account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

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Pogodnosti statusa Fre quent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines i Luxair. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Luf thansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja

Fre quent Traveller privile ges - Exe cu ti ve Bo nus of 25 per cent on the ac tu al flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Air lines, LOT Polish Air lines, Luf thansa (including Luf thansa Regional and Luf thansa Pri vate Jet), SWISS, US Air ways, United, Brussels Airlines and Luxair. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Luf thansa Busine ss Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Luf thansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Se nator - Exe cutive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Luf thansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge par tnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog ra zreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezer vacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva vauËera prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award

Senator privile ges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Luf thansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance par tners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mileage discount for an accompanying person on ﬂight awards depending on the airline - Additional 20 kg baggage allowance or an additional bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and two e-vouchers each time the status is renewed. - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Se nator - Exe cutive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Se nator za supruænika ili par tnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) te šest prilikom zadržavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude par tneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privile ges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or par tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers and 6 every time the status is renewed - Additional beneﬁts of fered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can ﬁnd more at: www.miles-and-more.com

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U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

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Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your ﬂight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in. SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a speciﬁc frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

•

USA CHARLOTTE NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau

Lyon Turin

Porto

Venice

Genoa Madrid

Rijeka

OSIJEK Belgrade

Bucharest

BraË BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

Athens

Beirut Damascus Tel Aviv Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines

US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES

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152

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Ivan RadiπiÊ

Dragi putnici!

Upravo sam se vratio s predivnog putovanja… I just returned from a wonderful trip…

Hvala vam na prekrasnim fotografijama kojima ste nam doËarali ljepote s vaπih putovanja. Pred nama je zima, bajkovito godiπnje doba inspirativno za stvaranje lijepih fotografija. Pozivamo vas da nam se pridruæite i u sljedeÊem broju. Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Glavna su nagrada dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odrediπte po vaπem izboru i poklon-paketi. Autoricu fotografije Marinu AndrijaπeviÊ odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Ivana RadiπiÊa i Biljanu ©impraga. ©aljite nam i dalje svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Dear passengers!

Putovanja su divne prilike da pobjegnemo iz rutine svakidaπnjice i spoznamo nove dijelove sebe... Travelling is a wonderful opportunity to escape from the daily routine and learn something new about yourself…

Thank you for sharing your amazing photographs and showing us the beautiful places you have travelled. The winter season is ahead of us; the fairytale time of the year which inspires beautiful photos. We invite you to join us in the next issue as well. Participate in our award contest by sending us your photographs along with one sentence that explains why you love to travel. The main prizes are two return trip tickets on Croatia Airlines to the destination of your choice and promotional gift packages. We have selected Marina AndrijaπeviÊ as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two return trip tickets on Croatia Airlines. Ivan RadiπiÊ and Biljana ©impraga have won our promotional gift packages. Please continue to send us your photographs because valuable awards await you in the next issue, too. Visit our web page www.croatiaairlines.com (Offers/Prize contest), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Marina AndrijaπeviÊ

Svaki novi kilometar nova je toËka glediπta. Each new kilometre is a new point of view.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 10 public transport rides

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www.dubrovnikcard.com CROATIA AIRLINES

155

ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za pozive iz mobilne mreže Hrvatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Room 332 Concorde House,North Wing, Perimeter Road, Gatwick Airport West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr

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ADDRESSES München Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th ﬂoor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Skopje Airport, Alexander The Great, 1043 Petrovec Macedonia Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Opletalova 57 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237

GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Bill Clinton 32 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Lisbon ATR - Actividades Turisticas e Representações Edifício ES Viagens, Av. D. João II, Lote 1.16.1 - 7º em,1990-083 Lisbon Tel: +351 21 761 89 81 Fax: +351 21 425 24 12 croatiaairlines@atr.co.pt SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Srbija / Oki Air International Aerodrom Nikola Tesla 11180 Beograd 89 Tel: + 381 11 228 6457 Fax: + 381 11 228 6457 okiairbeg@oki.me Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534 J. Koreja GSA-a Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr

Have you been taken back to the past in a time machine or can you actually see the characters from stories told long time ago standing right next to you? Everything is here: a nostalgic song, a bunch of ¾owers and the times we brought back to the streets of Zagreb because of you… www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

This international street festival turns Zagreb into an all-out party place. Be sure to join in on the fun! www.cestisdbest.com

Croatia’s largest open-air music event, placed on the list of 50 best festivals in the world. Check it out! www.inmusicfestival.com

Fill your hearts with the spirit of Advent as the city streets, squares and parks are adorned with Christmassy delights. Treat yourself with Advent in Zagreb! www.adventzagreb.com

Dubrovnik's new stars Enrich your Dubrovnik experience from 2014 with two completely refurbished premium hotels. Enjoy the amazing sights offered by Valamar Dubrovnik President, ďŹ&#x201A;agship 5 star hotel with luxurious comfortable rooms and suites, great gastro and wellness experiences and own tranquil beach. 4 star Valamar Argosy offers a quiet seaside retreat in the midst of aromatic Mediterranean gardens, indoor and outdoor pool and great wellness features. Both properties are located just minutes from the old town of Dubrovnik on the peaceful peninsula of Babin Kuk. Information and reservations: T +385 52 465 000 E reservations@valamar.com

www.valamar.com/dubrovnik2014

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5* Photos are for illustration purposes only. Project is subject to permits and master plans.

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

Valamar Argosy Hotel 4*