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CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

J E S E N

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I N F L I G H T

A U T U M N

JESEN

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

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AUTUMN 2010


D. FabijaniÊ

DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com Direktor/President & C.E.O. Ivan MiπetiÊ Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija ÆlofRoman Gebauer, Miljenkbravka Urednik fotografije/Photo editor Damir FabijaniÊ Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Poštovani put­ni­ci!

Dear passengers,

P

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red nama je joπ jedna jesen, nadamo se za svakoga od vas lijepa, plodonosna i uspjeπna. Raduje nas ako ste ljeto iskoristili za odmor u naπoj zemlji i pritom se dobro proveli, te upoznali i neka nova mjesta, nove ljude. Misija je zrakoplovstva, koja nam je veoma vaæna, spajanje i povezivanje razliËitih ljudi i krajeva. To smo Ëinili od osnutka naπe tvrtke, a Ëinit Êemo i u buduÊe. Takoer, i dalje nastavljamo poboljπavati naπu uslugu vama, putnicima. U tom smislu naπa je tvrtka dobila joπ jedno vrijedno priznanje za unapreenje poslovnih procesa. Naime, Croatia Airlines omoguÊio je izdavanje dvodimenzionalne bar-kodirane ukrcajne propusnice te za to dobio certifikat 2D BCBP Meunarodne udruge za zraËni promet IATA-e. Tako je naπoj kompaniji potvren platinasti status u uvoenju globalnog IATA projekta pod nazivom Simplifyng the Business, a to nas ispunja ponosom, osobito stoga πto putnicima omoguÊuje bolju kontrolu putovanja i uπtedu vremena (izbjegavanje Ëekanja u zraËnoj luci). Meu mnogim temama, πto vam ih nudimo za Ëitanje u ovom broju naπega putnog Ëasopisa, izdvajamo intervju s mladim hrvatskim dirigentom Ivanom RepuπiÊem, koji veÊ gradi uspjeπnu meunarodnu karijeru, pripovijest o dvorcu nadomak ZapreπiÊa, Luænici, te razliËite zanimljive teme iz istoËnih hrvatskih krajeva. Iz Virovitice, predvorja Slavonije, odlazimo u Vukovar kako bismo posjetili Ivan MiπetiÊ rodnu kuÊu hrvatskog nobelovca Lavoslava RuæiËke, a pogledat Êemo i Slavoniju iz zraka. Srediπnja je tema broja istarski Novigrad, Ëije se plaæe ponose jednim od najËiπÊih mora u ovom dijelu Jadrana, nekad ribarski gradiÊ, a nedavno proglaπen najrazvijenijim u Hrvatskoj. Predstavljamo i KorËulu, toËnije autentiËni maËevalaËki ples moreπku, utkan u æivotno tkivo korËulanskog druπtva, te tradicionalnu regatu Rota palagruzona, jednu od najstarijih u Europi. Veze Hrvatske s Europom predstavljamo joπ dvjema temama: Hrvatska i Europa te Hrvatski modni kreativci u Europi, a od naπih inozemnih odrediπta, vodimo vas u Skoplje.

tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Eto, dragi putnici, nadam se da Êe svatko od vas u Ëasopisu naÊi neπto πto Êe ga zanimati. Æelim da vam i ovaj let s nama protekne ugodno, kao i joπ mnogo zajedniËkih letova.

Priprema/Photolitography

Hvala vam πto i ovaj put letite Croatia Airlinesom!

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines

WELCOME ABOARD!

e have another autumn ahead of us, hopefully beautiful, fruitful and successful for each one of us. We are delighted to know that you have spent your vacation in our country, and we hope that you had a great time, getting to know new people and places. The mission of the airline industry, which is very important to us, is to connect different people and regions. This has been our mission from the moment the company was founded and will remain so in the future. In addition, we shall continue to improve our service that we provide you, our passengers. In this respect, our company has received another valuable recognition for upgrading our business processes. Croatia Airlines provided for the issuance of a two-dimensional bar-coded boarding pass and the result was the 2D BCBP Certificate awarded by the International Air Transport Association, confirming the platinum status in introducing the global IATA project named Simplifying the Business (StB), which fills us with pride, particularly since we offer our passengers better control of their trip and time saving (no waiting on airports). The articles in this issue of our inflight magazine include an interview with the young Croatian orchestra conductor Ivan RepuπiÊ, who has been building a successful international career, and a story about the Luænica manor close to ZapreπiÊ. There are also articles set in the eastern part of Croatia: from Virovitica, the gateway to Slavonija, we take you to Vukovar to visit the birthplace of Croatian Nobel Prize winner Lavoslav RuæiËka, and we also take a glance at Slavonija from the air. We focus on the Istrian town of Novigrad, where the beaches and the sea are among the cleanest in this part of the Adriatic. Novigrad used to be a fisherman’s town but was recently proclaimed the most developed town in Croatia. We also present KorËula and the Moreπka sword dance that is woven into the life of KorËulan society, and the traditional Rota palagruzona regatta, one of the oldest in Europe. We go beyond Croatia’s borders with articles on Croatia and Europe and Croatian Fashion Creators in Europe, and we take you to Skopje, one of our foreign destinations. So, dear passengers, we hope each one of you will find something interesting in our magazine. Our wish is for you to have a pleasant flight with Croatia Airlines, as well as many more to come. Thank you again for flying Croatia Airlines.

Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Ivan MiπetiÊ President & C.E.O.


■ SADRÆAJ 6 Razgovor: Ivan RepušiÊ MOJ JE NOVI IZAZOV DRÆAVNA OPERA U HANNOVERU UnatoË mladosti, dirigent Ivan RepuπiÊ veÊ je stekao zavidno iskustvo te je imenovan na funkciju prvog dirigenta u Dræavnoj operi u Hannoveru. 14 Tradicija LUÆNICA, DVORAC KOJI NE PRISTAJE NA PROŠLOST Luænica je jedan je od najslikovitijih dvoraca Hrvatskog zagorja, danas popriπte neposrednoga dobrotvornoga i prosvjetnog rada. Tu se odræavaju i glazbene veËeri vrhunskih glazbenika, u sveËanoj dvorani dvora ili u njegovu veliËanstvenome atrijskom dvoriπtu. 26 Kontinentalna Hrvatska DRUÆELJUBIVA VIROVITICA, PREDVORJE SLAVONIJE Virovitica je sjajno mjesto za æivot. U njoj se mijeπaju slavonska duπa i naËin æivota engleske provincije, a gosti se uvijek iznova vraÊaju ladanjskom odmoru, πto u svako godiπnje doba nudi znatne Ëari. 42 Slavonija iz zraka DA, UISTINU JE LIJEPA… Poπto se Ëovjek nauæiva Slavonije svisoka i sleti na jedan od lokalnih sportskih aerodroma, oËekuju ga mnogi ovozemaljski uæici. 50 Baština RODNA KU∆A LAVOSLAVA RUÆI»KE Posjetite li Vukovar, obiite i rodnu kuÊu prvoga hrvatskog nobelovca Lavoslava RuæiËke, koja se nalazi u neposrednoj blizini Dvorca Eltz. 58 Obala MIRISI I OKUSI ISTARSKOG NOVIGRADA Na zapadnom rubu istarskog kopna leæi Novigrad, nevelik gradiÊ s otprilike pet tisuÊa stanovnika, smjeπten na niskoj i pristupaËnoj obali s kamenitim ili πljunËanim plaæama. 86 Otoci MOREŠKA, VJE»NI BOJ DOBRA I ZLA Ne zna se toËno kad je i kako nastala moreπka, ali sigurno je da se prije Ëetiri ili pet stoljeÊa plesala po cijelome Sredozemlju. Danas opstaje na otoku KorËuli. 98 Dogaaji ROTA PALAGRUZONA, JEDNA OD NAJSTARIJIH REGATA U EUROPI Komiπki ribari svojedobno su bili jedini puËinski ribari na Sredozemlju, a u masovnim regatama natjecali su se za bolje pozicije u ribolovu, na palagruπkom æalu za izvlaËenje broda, soljenje ribe, suπenje mreæe... 106 Naše odredište BOÆANSTVENI GRAD SKOPLJE RazliËite kulture nauËile su Skopljane toleranciji, suæivotu i velikoj ljubaznosti prema strancima. U njihovu gradu roena je i dobitnica Nobelove nagrade za mir Majka Tereza. 2

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■ CONTENTS 6 Interview: Ivan RepušiÊ MY NEW CHALLENGE ∑ HANNOVER STATE OPERA In spite of his young age, maestro Ivan RepuπiÊ has already acquired admirable experience, and was appointed head conductor of the State Opera in Hannover. 16 Tradition LUÆNICA, A MANOR WHICH DOES NOT SETTLE FOR THE PAST Luænica is one of the most picturesque manors in Croatian Zagorje. Today the manor is the scene of very hands-on, charitable and educational work and also the stage for musical evenings in the castle’s grand ballroom or its fascinating atrium. These programmes feature top class artists. 26 Inland Croatia AMICABLE VIROVITICA, THE ANTECHABRE OF SLAVONIA Virovitica is a desirable place to live. The Slavonian soul and a way of life that is reminiscent of the English countryside make an interesting blend which has inspired many to move to Virovitica. Visitors appreciate it as a place to escape to the countryside, where many charming and attractive features can be found any time of year. 42 Slavonia ∑ a Bird’s Eye View INDEED BEAUTIFUL After having thoroughly enjoyed Slavonia from the air, many worldly pleasures await after landing at one of the local airports. 50 Heritage LAVOSLAV RUÆI»KA’S BIRTH PLACE If you visit Vukovar, do not miss the house where the first Croatian Nobel Prize winner, Lavoslav RuæiËka, was born very close to Eltz Manor. 58 Coast THE SMELLS AND TASTES OF ISTRIAN NOVIGRAD Novigrad lies on the western brink of the Istrian littoral. A small township with barely five thousand inhabitants is set comfortably on a low-lying and easily accessible stretch of the coastland which features stony and pebble beaches. 86 Islands MOREŠKA - EN ETERNAL STRUGGLE BETWEEN GOOD AND EVIL The origins of the Moreπka are lost in history, but one thing is certain: four or five centuries ago, the dance prevailed across the entire Mediterranean coast. Nowadays, it exists only in KorËula. 98 Events ROTA PALAGRUZONA, ONE OF THE OLDEST REGATTA RACES IN EUROPE The fishermen of Komiæa were once the only ones in the entire Mediterranean Sea who went on long fishing expeditions. Big regattas were organized as competitions for the rights to the best fishing areas and the best positions for pulling boats ashore, salting sardines and drying nets. 106 Our destinations DIVINE CITY SKOPJE Different cultures have taught the citizens of Skopje tolerance, coexistence and great kindness towards strangers. Mother Theresa, a Nobel Prize winner, was born in their city. 4

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This is your personal copy


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■ RAZGOVOR: IVAN REPUŠI∆

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Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar


Fotografije/Photos Petar StrmeËki

INTERVIEW: IVAN REPUŠI∆ ■

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Tridesetdvogodiπnji maestro Ivan RepuπiÊ najuspjeπniji je mladi hrvatski dirigent, koji sigurnim koracima samouvjereno stupa na uglednu meunarodnu glazbenu scenu. Strastveno voli glazbu te doista poπtuje svoje glazbenike i publiku, pa na svakoj od navedenih instancija dobiva istovjetan i i te kako zasluæen uzvrat.

Thirty-two-year-old maestro Ivan RepuπiÊ is the most successful young conductor in Croatia, already safely treading on the paths of the international music scene. He is passionate about music and truly respects his musicians and audience, and he gets the same deserved respect in return. 8

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natoË mladosti, maestro Ivan RepuπiÊ veÊ je stekao zavidno iskustvo u uspjeπnome organizacijskome i umjetniËkom voenju Opere HNK-a u Splitu i festivala Splitsko ljeto, a u proljeÊe ove godine povjerene su mu joπ dvije osobito odgovorne umjetniËke zadaÊe: postao je najmlai ravnatelj glazbenog programa u dugoj povijesti DubrovaËkih ljetnih igara, te je gotovo istodobno imenovan na funkciju prvog dirigenta u Dræavnoj operi u Hannoveru, gdje Êe tijekom aktualne sezone ravnati izvedbama 35 predstava, meu kojima su i dva premijerna naslova (Mozartova Otmica iz saraja i Verdijev Falstaff). Maestro RepuπiÊ opazivo uæiva u svome glazbeniËkom poslanju, od kojega mu je jedino milija obiteljska privatnost. Na svojim opernim i simfonijskim pokusima energiËan je i vrlo zahtjevan, ali uvijek dobronamjeran, susretljiv i prijemËiv za nove ideje. Ivan RepuπiÊ ima sposobnost pomnog sluπanja i razumijevanja ∑ kako same glazbe, tako i razliËitih ljudi kojima je u svome dirigentskom poslu okruæen. Stoga se najËeπÊe izricani dojmovi o ovome mladome hrvatskome maestru uglavnom svode na sljedeÊe: Sjajan dirigent, vrlo drag Ëovjek… ■ Kad ste i kako doπli u doticaj sa svijetom umjetniËke glazbe? - Moji roditelji, majka Mara i otac Vinko, Ëesto su me kao malog djeËaka vodili na koncerte, koji su se u naπem gradu Zadru odræavali Ëak i pod uzbunama u onim teπkim i opasnim vremenima Domovinskog rata, kad sam veÊ bio srednjoπkolac. No u onaj pravi, izravan doticaj s glazbom i muziciranjem doπao sam zahvaljujuÊi ocu, koji mi je i dandanas u mnogoËemu ostao uzor. Naime, moj je otac ∑ kao mali djeËak ∑ u eksploziji bombe zaostale iz Drugoga svjetskog rata potpuno izgubio vid. UnatoË sljepoÊi na Brajevu je pismu uspio zavrπiti studij povijesti, filozofije i prava. Premda je svoj radni vijek proveo u Zavodu za platni promet, uvijek je pronalazio vremena za bavljenje glazbom: svirao je trubu i punih 25 godina pjevao u crkvenom zboru katedrale svete Stoπije. Pratio sam oca na zborske pokuse i pjevane mise, ali do naπeg povratka kuÊi nisam vrijeme provodio igrajuÊi se pred katedralom, nego sam opËinjeno sluπao glazbu. Na svakome od koncerata moju je pozornost ponajviπe privlaËila pojava dirigenta; divio sam se tomu kako on upravlja svime, a da ∑ kako mi se tada Ëinilo ∑ niπta konkretno ne radi, pa sam bio u velikoj dvojbi je li zapravo maestro muziËarima potreban ili moæda nije. Odgovor na to sudbinsko pitanje poËeo sam traæiti kad su me roditelji upisali u glazbenu πkolu, ali prve konkretne spoznaje o pravoj ulozi dirigenta stekao sam veÊ u srednjoπkolskim danima kad sam poËeo voditi zbor zadarske crkve svetog Frane.

■ Vaπi srednjoπkolski dani protjecali su u tjeskobnu ozraËju Ëestih uzbuna zbog neposredne ratne opasnosti kojoj je Zadar danonoÊno bio izloæen? - To je, na æalost, toËno. Ali, poput nekolicine vrπnjaka i prijatelja iz srednje glazbene πkole, i ja sam se ratnim strahotama jedino mogao suprotstaviti glazbom. Imali smo veoma poærtvovne profesore, koji su nam tijekom Ëestih uzbuna nastavu katkad dræali u nekom od skloniπta, pa Ëak i u vlastitom domu. Kako su naπi nesebiËni glazbeni uËitelji bili uspjeπni i u tim tegobnim ratnim uvjetima, najbolje govori sljedeÊi podatak: petero aka iz te moje generacije poæeljelo se i uspjelo upisati na MuziËku akademiju u Zagrebu. ■ Dirigiranjem ste se poËeli samoinicijativno baviti veÊ u srednjoπkolskoj dobi, zar ne? - SlijedeÊi oËev primjer, zarana sam poËeo pjevati u crkvenom zboru, a tijekom cijele srednje πkole vodio sam zbor crkve svetog Frane. »ini se da sam veÊ u svome prvome dirigentskom poslu bio popriliËno uspjeπan, jer tijekom samo dvije godine naπ je mali sastav prerastao u pravi zbor od Ëetrdesetak pjevaËa. Mnogi su nas smatrali najboljim zadarskim zborom, a u prilog tome iπla su i naπa uspjeπna gostovanja po Hrvatskoj i Italiji. Poput svojih mladih, ali i starijih, zborskih pjevaËa i ja sam se meu franjevcima ∑ u zadarskome sjediπtu Provincije svetog Jeronima ∑ osjeÊao kao u svojoj drugoj obitelji. Tomu je osobito pridonio fra Alfons OrliÊ, tadaπnji gvardijan samostana, koji je pozorno pratio rad naπeg zbora, ali pritom nam je ostavljao osjeÊaj potpune slobode. Moji tinejdæerski dani bili su posve ispunjeni glazbom: nastavom u glazbenoj πkoli, voenjem zborskih pokusa, skladanjem zborskih kompozicija i svakodnevnim preludiranjem na orguljama crkve svetog Frane… ■ Tijekom studija na MuziËkoj akademiji u Zagrebu viπe ste se puta iskazali kao vrlo perspektivan dirigent, koji je dobivene prilike znao iskoristiti na pravi naËin… - Prvu i drugu godinu studija dirigiranja zavrπio sam u razredu prof. Igora Gjadrova, a do diplome me doveo i u dirigentski posao konkretno uveo maestro Vjekoslav ©utej, koji je kao pedagog ali i Ëovjek uvelike utjecao na moj æivotni put. Imao je buran temperament, bio je katkad i neugodno izravan, ali uvijek je igrao otvorenih karata i u najboljoj namjeri. Premda sam od maestra ©uteja mnogo toga nauËio, osobito o operi, od svega πto mi je dao moæda je najdragocjenije to πto me tako nesebiËno uputio u specifiËne zakonitosti dirigentskog naËina æivota, koji doista nije jednostavan. Slavni su glazbenici Ëesto optereÊeni taπtinom i narcizmom, pa stoga nevoljko dopuπtaju mladim kolegama da stupe na njihov umjetniËki teren, jer najËeπÊe to doæivljavaju kao potencijalnu


ugrozu. Nasuprot tomu, mene je maestro ©utej na velika vrata uveo u Splitsku operu povjerivπi mi nekoliko predstava Donizettijeva Ljubavnog napitka, premda su mi tada bila samo 24 ljeta. Godinu dana prije jednako je hrabar potez povukao i maestro Vladimir KranjËeviÊ, koji mi je ∑ kao tadaπnji direktor ZagrebaËke opere ∑ omoguÊio najprije diplomsku predstavu, a zatim joπ tri izvedbe Verdijeve Traviate. Poslije zavrπetka studija godinu sam dana bio asistent maestra Kazushija Onoa, koji je tada bio ravnatelj Dræavne opere u Karlsruheu. Ondje mi je doduπe ponuen angaæman korepetitora, ali upravo me maestro ©utej savjetovao da prihvatim ponudu za mjesto dirigenta u Operi splitskog HNK-a. Tek sada mi je jasno kako mi je mudar savjet tada dao moj –ii, koji je bio moj profesor dirigiranja i umjetniËki mentor, a zatim bliski prijatelj, pa i vjenËani kum. ■ Jeste li preko glazbenoga rada moæda upoznali i svoju suprugu Katju, koja je pijanistica? - Da, doslovce je bilo tako. Oboje smo bili na drugoj godini studija kad smo ∑ svatko na svom odsjeku ∑ poloæili audiciju za javni nastup s orkestrom. Katja je svirala solistiËku dionicu u Griegovu Koncertu u a-molu, a ja sam dirigirao. Naπa je ljubav poËela s glazbom, a s njome se i nastavlja. AludirajuÊi na Katjine i moje javne izvedbe klavirskih koncerata Mozarta, Rahmanjinova i Papandopula, prijatelji me Ëesto zafrkavaju: »ovjeËe, kako si ti povlaπten muπkarac kad barem na poslu moæeπ dirigirati supruzi! No u naπemu uvijek vedrome obiteljskom tercetu odnosi snaga zapravo su posve suprotni: supruga je generalni glazbeni ravnatelj, Ëetverogodiπnja kÊerkica Lucija prvi je dirigent, a ja sam tu tek pomoÊni dirigent… ■ Potpisali ste zahtjevan dvogodiπnji ugovor s Dræavnom operom u Hannoveru; hoÊe li Vam ostati vremena za nastupe u Splitskoj operi, u kojoj ste tako uspjeπno djelovali osam prethodnih godina? - Mislim da ni u jednome hrvatskom teatru ne bih mogao dobiti viπe moguÊnosti za rad i umjetniËki razvoj nego πto je to bio sluËaj u Splitu. Za tih osam godina ostvario sam dvadesetak opernih naslova, veÊinom premijera, imali smo i koncertnu sezonu sa simfonijskim repertoarom, solistiËka ekipa pomlaena je vrlo perspektivnim splitskim pjevaËima, nabavljen je koncertni klavir i niz kvalitetnih orkestralnih glazbala… Maestro ©utej u Split je doveo tenora Tomislava Muæeka i mene, a ja sam uspio za Split pridobiti Valentinu FijaËko i Kirila Manolova te kao gosta Ëak i slavnoga Giorgia Suriana. Kad njima pridodam Ivicu »ikeπa i joπ nekoliko i te kako pouzdanih splitskih solista, onda mirno mogu ustvrditi kako smo ∑ uza svjetski ugledne inozemne goste ∑ imali sjajan domaÊi solistiËki ansambl. Kao diri-

gent najviπe dugujem Splitskoj operi, Ëijim Êu se pozivima odazvati kad god mi to dopuste moji inozemni termini; uostalom ∑ ja i æivim u Splitu. Nadam se da Êe se aktualna kadrovska previranja okonËati kvalitetnim rjeπenjem za buduÊnost splitskog HNK-a, Ëija tri ansambla imaju golem umjetniËki potencijal koji πira druπtvena zajednica jednostavno ne smije zanemariti. ■ Za Vama su DubrovaËke ljetne igre, koje ste prvi put potpisali kao ravnatelj glazbenog programa festivala. Jeste li zadovoljni postignutim? - Potpuno sam zadovoljan ovogodiπnjim dosegom Igara, koji je uvelike rezultat izvrsne suradnje s intendantom Ivicom Prlenderom i redateljicom Dorom Ruædjak Podolski, zaduæenom za dramski dio programa. Kao glazbeni ravnatelj smatrao sam da, unatoË recesiji, moramo nastaviti tradiciju gostovanja najveÊih svjetskih solista i vodeÊih ansambala. Takoer sam nastojao da ponajbolji hrvatski solisti muziciraju uz ugledne inozemne ansamble, a sliËno sam promiπljao i meunarodno promicanje skladbi hrvatskih skladatelja. Programski je odabir i u stilskome i u æanrovskom pogledu bio zadovoljavajuÊe raznolik, pri Ëemu su dobrodoπli osvjeæavajuÊi iskoraci u podruËja vrhunskog jazza i izvornog folklora. Kako je Dubrovnik bogomdana scena za meunarodnu afirmaciju naπih mladih glazbenika, osobito sam ponosan πto smo ove godine festival okonËali koncertom koji je bio virtuozna ali i profinjena parada odreda blistavih solista, koji zavreuju da ih poimence navedem. To su: sopranistica Marija Kuhar ©oπa, pijanist i skladatelj Bruno Vlahek, violonËelist Luka ©uliÊ, violinist Marin Maras, marimbist Filip MerËep i gitarist Sran Bulat. Pred njima je velika buduÊnost! ■ S obzirom na Vaπu dob, nije li joπ pred Vama - duga umjetniËka buduÊnost?! - Nadam se da je tako… Znate, u ovom poslu kojim se bavim kao tridesetogodiπnjak joπ ste dirigent-dijete, tako da ja i danas rastem i postupno koraËam sve sigurnije. SljedeÊa je stuba, i to povisoka, Dræavna opera u Hannoveru. REPU©I∆EV JE VERDI GLAZBENO UPRAVO GORIO! Za pultom dobro raspoloæenoga Dræavnog orkestra briljantno je koordinirao zbivanje novoodreeni prvi dirigent Ivan RepuπiÊ. Apsolutno jasnom gestom gotovo je savrπeno usklaivao izvoaËe na pozornici s onima u orkestru. Orkestralni su glazbenici potpuno primali njegove poticaje i tijekom veËeri pokazivali sve veÊu spremnost na rizik i radost muziciranja. Taj je Verdi glazbeno upravo gorio. Publika je ovacijama zahvalila na toj izvanrednoj opernoj veËeri. Stefan Mauß Hannoverische Allgemeine, 4. svibnja 2010. ■

I

n spite of his young age, maestro Ivan RepušiÊ has already acquired admirable experience in the successful organisation and art direction of the Opera at the Croatian National Theatre in Split and the Split Summer Festival. This spring he was entrusted with two especially important artistic duties: he became the youngest music programme director in the long history of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, while almost at the same time he was appointed head conductor of the State Opera in Hannover. In the current season he will conduct 35 performances, including two premieres, Mozart’s The Abduction from the Seraglio and Verdi’s Falstaff. Maestro RepuπiÊ takes notable pleasure in his musical profession, enjoying only his private family life more. In his opera and symphony rehearsals he is energetic and very demanding, but always benevolent, kind and open to new ideas. Ivan RepuπiÊ has the ability to listen attentively and understand ∑ both the music itself and the different people he is surrounded with while conducting. Therefore, the most common descriptions of this young Croatian maestro mainly come down to: an excellent conductor, a very kind man... ■ How and when did your first contact with music occur? - When I was a boy, my parents Vinko and Mara often took me to concerts that were held in our town of Zadar, even during the air raids in those difficult and dangerous times of the Homeland War while I was in high school. However, my real, direct contact with music and music-making happened thanks to my father, who has remained my role model in many aspects. As a child, my father lost his eyesight due to the explosion of a bomb left over from World War II. In spite of his blindness, with the use of Braille he managed to graduate with majors in history, philosophy and law. Although he spent all of his working years at the Financial Agency, he always found the time to pursue music: he played the trumpet and sang in the church choir at St. Stoπija Cathedral for 25 years. I used to accompany my father to choir rehearsals and when he sang during mass. I never played in front of the church with the other children, but rather listened to the music, mesmerised. At each of the concerts my attention was more and more drawn to the conductor. I admired his ability to control everything, without ∑ as it seemed to me back then ∑ doing anything in particular. I seriously questioned whether or not the musicians actually needed a maestro. I began searching for the answer to that crucial question when my parents sent me to music school. However, my first concrete notions of the conductor’s real role came when I was in high school and started conducting the choir at St. Francis’s Church in Zadar. CROATIA AIRLINES

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■ Your high school days were marked by an atmosphere of anxiety, frequent air raids and the immediate war threats that Zadar was exposed to day and night... - That is true, unfortunately. However, like some of my colleagues and friends from the high school of music, the only way to face the horrors of war was through music. We had very dedicated teachers. Even under constant air raids they held classes in some of the shelters, sometimes even in their own homes. The success of our selfless teachers, especially during those horrible war times, is best illustrated by the fact that five colleagues from my generation wanted to enrol in the Academy of Music in Zagreb, and succeeded. ■ Conducting was a choice entirely of your own when you were in high school, right? - Following in the footsteps of my father, I began singing in the church choir very early, and throughout high school I conducted the choir at St. Francis. It seems that I was quite successful even in my first conducting job; in just two years our little group grew to become a choir of almost 40 singers. Many thought of us as the best choir in Zadar, which was confirmed by our successful performances in Croatia and Italy. Like both my younger and older choir singers, I too considered the Franciscans ∑ at the St. Jerome Province centre in Zadar ∑ to be my second family. Brother Alfons OrliÊ, the monastery guardian at the time, watched our choir’s work carefully, but always gave us free hands. My teenage days were entirely filled with music: going to school, running choir rehearsals, composing choir music and playing the organ every day at the Church of St. Francis... ■ As a student at the Academy of Music in Zagreb, you often proved yourself to be a conductor with great potential who knew how to grasp an opportunity... - I finished my first and second year of conducting in the class of Professor Igor Gjadrov, while I graduated and was introduced to the conducting profession by maestro Vjekoslav ©utej, who had a great impact on my path in life as a teacher and a human being. He had a tough temper, sometimes he was even unpleasantly forward, but always frank and with the best intentions. Although he taught me a lot, especially about opera, the most valuable thing he gave me was generous insight into the specific circumstances of the life of a conductor, which is hardly simple. Famous musicians often suffer from vanity and narcissism and are very reluctant to allow younger colleagues into their artistic domain because they most frequently see them as a potential threat. Unlike them, maestro ©utej opened the doors of the Split Opera House for me and trusted me 10

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with a few performances of Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore, although I was only 24 at that time. A year before, maestro Vladimir KranjËeviÊ made an equal act of bravery. As the head of the Zagreb Opera at the time, he first enabled me to conduct my graduation performance and then another three performances of Verdi’s La Traviata. After graduation, I spent one year assisting maestro Kazushi Ono, who was leading the State Opera in Karlsruhe at the time. That opera house offered me a job as a rehearsal pianist, but it was maestro ©utej who advised me to take the conductor’s position at the Split Opera. Only now I realise how wise this piece of advice was that –ii gave me. He was my conducting teacher and art mentor, my close friend and finally my best man. ■ Your wife Katja is a pianist. Did you meet through working with music? - Yes, exactly. We were both sophomore students when we passed an audition for a public orchestra performance, each in our own respective departments. Katja was playing a solo piece from Grieg’s Concert in A Minor and I was conducting. Our love began with music and continues with music. My friends often tease me by commenting on our public piano concert performances of Mozart, Rachmaninoff and Papandopulo by saying: Man, look how privileged you are, telling your wife what to do, at least at work! However, our cheerful family trio has a different hierarchy: my wife is the general music manager, our four-year-old daughter Lucija is the head conductor and I am only an assistant conductor... ■ You recently signed a demanding two-year contract with the State Opera in Hannover. Will you find the time to perform at the Split Opera, where you have been so successful in the last eight years? - I am convinced that no other theatre in Croatia could have provided me with a better chance to work and develop artistically than the Split Opera. In these eight years, I conducted over twenty operas, mainly premieres. We had a symphony repertoire concert season, the team of soloists was rejuvenated with young singers with great potential, we purchased a grand piano and a series of good instruments for the orchestra... Maestro ©utej brought tenor Tomislav Muæek and myself to Split, while I managed to recruit Valentina FijaËko and Kiril Manolov, and even the famous Giorgio Surian as a guest. Adding Ivica »ikeπ and a few other very reliable vocal soloists from Split, I can safely say we had an outstanding cast of soloists in the house, alongside world renowned visiting artists. As a conductor, I owe the Split Opera my success and will always respond to its calls whenever my international schedule allows ∑ after all, I live in Split. I hope

the current staff turmoil is resolved with a viable solution for the future of the Croatian National Theatre in Split, whose three ensembles boast remarkable artistic potential, which should at all times be borne in mind by the broader social community. ■ The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is behind you; for the first time you participated as the festival music programme director. Are you satisfied with your achievement? - I am absolutely satisfied with this year’s festival, which is mainly a result of excellent collaboration with the general manager Ivica Prlender and director Dora Ruædjak Podolski, who was in charge of the drama programme. As the music programme director, I thought that we ought to continue with the good tradition of hosting the world’s best artists and ensembles, in spite of the recession. I also attempted to get leading Croatian soloists to play alongside renowned international ensembles, having in mind the same principle when considering the international promotion of Croatian composers. The framework of the programme was, in terms of both style and genre, pleasingly diverse. We took some refreshing new steps, such as including jazz and authentic folk music performances. Since Dubrovnik is a God-given stage for the international promotion of our young talents, I am especially proud that this year we closed the festival with a concert that was a marvellous and refined parade of outstanding soloists, who deserve to be listed one by one. They are: soprano Marija Kuhar ©oπa, pianist and composer Bruno Vlahek, cellist Luka ©uliÊ, violinist Marin Maras, marimba player Filip MerËep and guitarist Sran Bulat. There is a great future ahead of each of them! ■ Considering your age, is there not ∑ a great artistic future ahead of you?! - I surely hope so... You know, in this line of work, a thirty-year-old conductor is still a baby. I am still growing and moving forward. The next step, and a very important one, is the State Opera in Hannover. VERDI BY REPU©I∆ ∑ MUSIC ON FIRE! On the podium in front of the remarkable State Orchestra, the newly established head conductor, Ivan RepuπiÊ, brilliantly coordinated the event. His outstandingly clear movement accounted for the perfect harmony between the performers on stage and the performers in the pit. The orchestra musicians took his cues and throughout the evening showed an ever greater readiness to take risks and enjoy the music. Their Verdi was simply on fire. The audience ovations thanked them for this extraordinary night at the opera. Stefan Mauß Hannoverische Allgemeine, 4 May 2010 ■


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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Re­pu­bli­ka Hrvat­ska smjeπte­na je uz istoË­ne oba­le Ja­dran­skog mo­ra i u nje­go­vu za­le­u. Pro­teæe se od obro­na­ka Al­pa na sje­ve­ro­za­pa­du do Pa­non­ske rav­ni­ce na isto­ku. Povrπina je nje­zi­na kop­na 56.542 Ëe­tvor­na ki­lo­me­tra, a povrπina te­ri­to­rijal­nog mo­ra 31.067 Ëe­tvor­nih ki­lo­me­ta­ra. U Hrvat­ skoj æivi, pre­ma po­pi­su iz 2001. go­di­ne, 4,437.460 lju­di. Duæina je mor­ske oba­le 5835 km za­jed­no s oto­ci­ma, oto­Ëi­Êi­ma i gre­be­ni­ma.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Cro­a­tia has eig­ht na­ti­o­nal par­ks, fo­ur of which are lo­ca­ted in the mo­un­ta­in re­gi­on (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Ri­snjak and Nor­thern Ve­le­bit), and fo­ur in the co­a­stal re­gi­on (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka and Mljet). Be­si­des the­se, cer­ta­in are­as un­der strict na­tu­re pro­tec­ti­on ∑ re­ser­ves, na­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and na­tu­ral par­ks ∑ sho­uld be men­ti­o­ned as a na­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge of spe­ci­al va­lue. They ha­ve all con­tri­bu­

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

............................................ Oto­ka, oto­Ëi­Êa i gre­be­na ima 1185, a na­se­lje­no je 47 oto­ka. Sluæbe­ni je­zik je­st hrvat­ski, a pi­smo la­ti­niË­no. Nov­Ëa­na je­di­ni­ca - ku­na. Glav­ni je grad Za­greb (779.145 sta­nov­ni­ka), ko­ji je ujed­no ad­mi­ni­s­tra­tiv­no, kul­tur­no, aka­dem­sko i trgo­vaË­ko sre­diπte zem­lje. Ustav Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske iz­gla­san je 22. pro­sin­ca 1990., a me­u­na­rod­no je pri­zna­ta 15. si­jeË­nja 1992. go­di­ne.

This is Croatia The Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia li­es along the ea­st co­as­ t of the Adri­a­tic Sea and its hin­ter­land. It stret­ches from the slo­pes of the Al­ps in the nor­th-we­st to the Pan­no­ni­an Pla­in in the ea­st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter­ri­to­ri­al sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 cen­sus, Cro­at­ia’s popu­ la­ti­on is 4,437,460. The len­gth of its sea co­a­st is 5835 km, in­clu­ding islan­ds, islets and re­efs. The­re are 1185 islan­ds, islets and re­efs, of which 47 islan­ds are in­ha­bi­ted. The of­fi­ci­al lan­gu­a­ge is Cro­a­ti­an, and the of­fic ­ i­al script is La­tin. The cur­ren­cy is the Ku­na. The ca­pi­tal is Za­greb (779,145 in­ha­bi­tan­ts), which is al­so the co­un­try’s ad­mi­ni­s­tra­ti­ve, cul­tu­ral, aca­ de­mic and eco­no­mic cen­ter. The Con­sti­tu­ti­on of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia was adop­ted on 22 De­cem­ber 1990, and the co­untry re­ce­i­ved in­ter­na­ti­o­nal re­cog­ni­ti­on on 15 Ja­nu­ary 1992. Nacionalni parkovi ­­Hrvat­ska ima osam na­ci­o­nal­nih par­ko­va, od kojih su Ëe­ti­ri u pla­nin­skom po­dru­Ëju (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tviËka je­ze­ra, Ri­snjak i Sje­ver­ni Ve­le­bit), a Ëe­ti­ri na obal­nom po­dru­Ëju (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka i Mljet). Nji­ ma, kao pro­stor oso­bi­to vri­jed­ne pri­rod­ne baπti­ne, tre­ba pri­do­da­ti i po­dru­Ëja pod stro­gom zaπti­tom pri­ro­de, re­zer­va­te, spo­me­ni­ke pri­ro­de, par­ko­ve pri­ ro­de. Zbog svih za­jed­no Hrvat­sku mno­gi sma­tra­ju jed­nim od naj­ljepπih eu­rop­skih vrto­va. 12

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ted to Cro­a­tia’s be­ing con­si­de­red one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful gar­dens of Eu­ro­pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvat­ska obi­lu­je kul­tur­no-po­vi­je­snim spo­me­ ni­ci­ma iz svih ra­zdob­lja, zbog bur­nih po­vi­je­snih zbi­va­nja i pre­pli­ta­nja utje­ca­ja ra­zli­Ëi­tih kul­tu­ra. Nje­zi­nu oba­lu ka­rak­te­ri­zi­ra­ju utje­ca­ji me­di­te­ran­ ske kul­tu­re, mno­gi an­tiË­ki spo­me­ni­ci, spo­me­ ni­ci rim­skog ra­zdob­lja i ra­no­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, ro­ma­niË­ko sa­kral­na baπti­na, te niz oËu­va­nih ka­rak­te­ri­stiË­nih me­di­te­ran­skih ur­ba­nih cje­li­na. Kon­ti­nen­tal­na Hrvat­ska dio je sred­njo­e­ur­ op­sko­ ga kul­tur­nog kru­ga i isti­Ëe se mno­gim pra­po­vi­ je­snim na­la­zi­ma sv­jet­ske vaæno­sti, sta­rim gra­ do­vi­ma, utvrda­ma i dvor­ci­ma ka­sno­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka i kul­tur­nim spo­me­ni­ci­ma i ar­hi­tek­tu­rom iz ra­zdob­lja ba­ro­ka. Tri hrvat­ske ur­ba­ne cje­li­ne i dva spo­me­niË­ka kom­plek­sa ima­ju sta­tus spo­me­ni­ka sv­jet­ske kul­tur­ne baπti­ne, ko­ji do­dje­lju­je Une­sco. To su ka­sno­an­tiË­ka Di­o­kle­ci­ja­no­va pa­la­Ëa, pre­gra­e­na ti­je­kom sto­lje­Êa u sred­njov­je­kov­ni Split, gra­do­vi Du­brov­nik i Tro­gir te Eu­fra­zi­je­va ba­zi­li­ka u Po­re­Ëu i ka­te­dra­la sv. Ja­ko­va u ©ibe­ni­ku. Na­ci­o­nal­ni park Pli­tviË­ka je­ze­ra, naj­ljepπi i najpozna­ti­ji hrvat­ski na­ci­o­nal­ni park, ta­ko­er je dio Une­sco­ve Sv­jet­ske baπti­ne.


A past for the present Cro­a­tia is rich in cul­tu­ral and hi­sto­ri­cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur­bu­lent even­ts of hi­story and the in­ter­la­cing of in­flu­en­ces of dif­fe­rent cul­tu­ res. Its co­a­st is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by the in­flu­ences of Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an cul­tu­re, nu­me­ro­us an­ci­ent re­ma­ins, mo­nu­men­ts of the Ro­man era and ear­ly Mid­dle Ages, a Ro­ma­ne­sque chur­ch he­ri­ta­ge and a num­ ber of di­stin­cti­ve Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an ur­ban en­ti­ti­es that ha­ve be­en pre­ser­ved. Inland Cro­a­tia is a part of the Cen­tral Eu­ro­pe­an cul­tu­ral circle and is di­stin­gu­i­shed by nu­me­ro­us

pre­hi­sto­ric fin­din­gs of wor­ld sig­ni­fi­cance, by old tow­ns, for­tre­sses and ca­s­tles da­ting from the la­te Mid­dle Ages, and cul­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and ar­chi­tec­tu­re from the Ba­ro­que era. Three Cro­a­ti­an ci­ti­es and two mo­nu­men­tal com­ple­xes ha­ve the sta­tus of mo­nu­men­ts of wor­ld cul­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge ac­cor­ded by UNE­SCO. The­se are the La­te An­ti­que Pa­la­ce of Di­o­cle­ti­an, re­mo­ de­led thro­ugh the cen­tu­ri­es in­to the me­di­ev­ al city of Split, the ci­ti­es of Du­brov­nik and Tro­gir, the Ba­si­li­ca of Eup­hra­si­us in Po­reË and the Cat­he­dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe­nik. The na­ti­on ­ al park of the Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Cro­a­tia’s mo­st be­au ­ ­ti­ful and ce­le­bra­ted na­ti­o­nal park, is al­so a part of UNE­SCO’s wor­ld he­ri­ta­ge.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvat­ska je po­sljed­njih go­di­na - ocje­nju­ju meu­na­rod­ni tu­ri­stiË­ki znal­ci i sta­ti­sti­Ëa­ri - naj­ve­ Êe tu­ri­stiË­ko izne­na­e­nje te hit odre­di­πte na Sre­do­zem­lju. Niz us­pjeπnih go­di­na na­stav­lja se ∑ su­gla­sni su ana­li­ti­Ëa­ri tu­ri­stiË­kih pri­li­ka ∑ i u 2009. go­di­ni. Pre­ma po­da­ci­ma Dræav­nog za­vo­da za sta­ti­sti­ku, hrvat­ska je tu­ri­stiË­ka odre­diπta na oto­ci­ma, u pri­o­ba­lju te u kon­ti­ne­tal­nom di­je­lu zem­lje uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi i glav­ni grad Za­greb,

u 2009. go­di­ni po­sje­ti­lo oko 11 mi­li­ju­na tu­ri­sta od ko­jih je ino­zem­nih bi­lo oko 9,3 mi­li­ju­na. Os­tva­re­no je ukup­no oko 56,3 mi­li­ju­na no­Êe­nja. Pri­tom je broj ino­zem­nih no­Êe­nja bio oko 50,5 mi­li­ju­na. Tra­di­ci­o­nal­no naj­broj­ni­ji go­sti, Ni­jem­ci, prvo su mje­sto za­dræa­li i u 2009. go­di­ni, a njih sli­je­de go­sti iz Slo­ve­ni­je, Italije, Austrije, »e­πke, Polj­ske, Nizozemske... Ho­te­li, tu­ri­stiË­ka na­se­lja, kam­po­vi i sve dru­ge vrste smjeπta­ja kao i mo­der­ni na­u­tiË­ki cen­tri oprem­lje­ni su u skla­du s me­u­na­rod­nim tu­ri­stiË­ kim stan­dar­di­ma. Bo­ga­ta kul­tur­- na po­nu­da, wel­lne­ss po­nu­da, spor­t- sko-re­kre­a­tiv­ni i za­bav­ni sa­dræaji, mno­gi ki­lo­me­tri ure­e­nih pjeπaË­kih sta­za ili pak vin­ske sta­ze, izle­ti ko­ji uk­lju­Ëu­ju ra­z­gle­da­va­nje pri­rod­nih i kul­tur­nih vri­jed­no­sti ili pak pra­vi spoj doæiv­lja­ja i avan­tu­rizma po­ve­Êa­va­ju adre­na­lin...

Hrvat­ska je bli­zu ne sa­mo zbog nje­zi­ne geograf­ske bli­zi­ne, ne­go i zbog mreæe zraË­nih lu­ka i kva­li­ tet­nih uslu­ga na­ci­o­nal­nog avi­o­pri­je­vo­zni­ka Croatia Air­li­ne­sa, kao i dru­gih zraË­nih pri­je­vo­zni­ka. Na te­me­lju mreæe au­to­ce­sta i po­lu­a­u­to­ce­sta, Hrvat­ska je i ce­stom bliæa ne­go ikad. Ako ste pak oda­bra­li od­mor na jed­no­me od mno­gih hrvat­skih oto­ka, pri­je­voz tra­jek­tom ili hi­dro­gli­se­rom s kop­na tra­jat Êe - i kad su po­sri­je­di oni na­ju­da­lje­ni­ji - ma­nje od 2 sa­ta. Ali nji­ho­va lje­po­ta i ne­po­sre­dan do­dir s iskon­ skom pri­ro­dom bit Êe ta­ko ne­za­bo­rav­ni kao da ste od sva­kod­ne­vi­ce mi­lja­ma i mi­lja­ma da­le­ko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Cro­a­tia has be­en a hit de­sti­na­ti­on and the bigge­st to­u­ri­st sur­pri­se in the Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an in the pa­st few ye­ars, say sta­ti­sti­ci­ans and in­ter­na­ti­o­nal ex­ per­ts in to­u­ri­sm. To­u­ri­st anal­ysts are agre­ed that a se­ri­es of suc­ce­ s­sful ye­ars is due to con­ti­nue in 2009. Ac­cor­ding to da­ta pro­vi­ded by the Cro­at­i­an Bu­ re­au of Sta­ti­stics, Cro­a­ti­an to­u­ri­st de­sti­na­ti­ons on the islan­ds, co­a­st and in the in­te­ri­or, in­clu­ding the ca­pi­tal Za­greb 2009 we­re vi­si­ted by nearly 11 million to­u­ri­sts, of whom 9.3 mil­li­on we­re fo­ re­ign gu­e­sts. The to­tal num­ber of over­nig­ht stays was more than 56.3 mil­li­on, of which fo­re­ign vi­si­tors ac­ co­un­ted for 50.5 mil­li­on. The lar­ge­st number of fo­re­ign gu­e­sts ca­me from Ger­many, fol­lo­wed by Slo­ve­nia, Italy, Austria, the Czech Re­pu­blic, Po­land, the Net­her­lan­ds... Ho­tels, to­u­ri­st si­tes, cam­ps and ot­her types of ac­com­mo­da­ti­on, as well as mo­dern na­u­ti­cal cen­ters, are equ­ip­ped in li­ne with in­ter­na­ti­on ­ al to­u­ri­sm stan­dar­ds. The­re is a rich cul­tu­ral of­ fer, to­get­her with wel­lne­ss, spor­ts, re­cre­a­ti­on ­ al and en­ter­ta­in­ment fa­ci­li­ti­es, many ki­lo­me­ters of

well-kept fo­ot­pat­hs or wi­ne ro­ads, ex­cur­si­ons in­clu­ding sig­ht-se­e­ing of na­tu­ral and cul­tu­ral tre­ a­su­res, or the right com­bi­na­ti­on of ex­pe­ri­en­ce and adven­tu­re to ra­i­se the adre­na­lin le­vel... Cro­a­tia is clo­se by, not ju­st ge­o­grap­hi­cal­ly, but thanks to its air­port net­work and the high-qu­al­ity ser­vi­ce of its na­ti­o­nal air com­pany, Cro­a­tia Air­lines, be­si­des ot­her air com­pa­ni­es. The net­work of ne­wly bu­ilt fre­e­ways and se­mi-fre­e­ways me­ans that Cro­at­ia is ea­si­er to re­ach by ro­ad than ever. If you ha­ve cho­sen to spend yo­ur va­ca­ti­on on one of Cro­a­tia’s many islan­ds, the cro­ssing by fer­ry or hydro­fo­il bo­at will ta­ke you ∑ even for the mo­st re­mo­te islan­ds ∑ le­ss than two ho­urs. Yet the­ir bea­uty and the im­me­di­a­te con­tact with vir­gin na­tu­re will be un­for­get­ta­ble, as if you we­re mi­les and mi­les away from the ever­yday wor­ld...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku­na (kn) je na­ziv nov­Ëa­ne je­di­ni­ce Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske. U op­tje­ca­ju su nov­Ëa­ni­ce ku­na i ko­va­ni no­vac ku­na i li­pa (lp) ∑ sto­ti dio ku­ne. Nov­Ëa­ni­ce su izda­ne u slje­de­Êim apo­e­ni­ma - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 ku­na, a ko­va­ni no­vac - 1, 2 i 5 ku­na, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 li­pa (100 li­pa = 1 ku­na). Mo­gu­Êe je pla­ Êa­nje kre­dit­nim kar­ti­ca­ma (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card i Ma­ster­card) i eu­ro­Ëe­ko­vi­ma. No­vac se moæe po­di­za­ti i na ban­ko­ma­ti­ma. Currency and payment methods The cur­ren­cy of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia is cal­led the Ku­na (kn). In cir­cu­la­ti­on are ban­kno­tes in Ku­na and co­ins in Ku­na and Li­pa (lp) ∑ one hun­dred­th of a Ku­na. The ban­kno­tes are issu­ed in the fol­lo­wing de­no­mi­na­ti­ ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku­na, whi­le the de­no­mi­na­ti­on struc­tu­re of the co­ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku­na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li­pa (100 Li­pa = 1 Ku­na). Pay­men­ts can be ma­de by cre­dit card (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card and Ma­ster­card), as well as eu­ro-chec­ks. Ca­sh can be wit­hdrawn from AT­Ms.

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TRADICIJA TRADITION ■

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

S

retneπ li Ëovjeka koji pjeva ∑ pridruæi mu se. Sretneπ li Ëovjeka koji plaËe ∑ pridruæi

mu se. Ne biraj trenutak kad Êeπ se pribliæiti Ëovjeku, jer svi su trenuci pravi. (M. Gavran, Klara) U svakom krajoliku Ëovjek nastoji ostaviti svoj otisak, osjeÊaj i znak prilagodbe. Svojim duhom i tijelom istraæuje prirodu i stvara prostor za svoj dom. Dvorci su veliki rezidencijalni prostori u kojima se Ëovjek æeli osjeÊati prostranije, πire, nadmoÊnije. Ta Ëudesna mjesta Ëesto priËaju svoje priËe, uvijek originalne, nikad ponovljive. Graeni kao reprezentativna zdanja za vlastelu, plemiÊe ili kraljeve, podizali su se u volumenu koji Ëesto nadilazi racionalne potrebe, teæeÊi da u prirodnom okruæju, svojom umjetniËkom ili obrambenom monumentalnoπÊu - zaustave dah promatraËa. Do 16. stoljeÊa gradili su se kao utvrena boraviπta, burgovi, a poslije, nakon srednjeg vijeka, kroz obnoviteljsku renesansu, njihovo obrambeno obiljeæje arhitektonski prerasta u elegantna remekdjela s velikim dvoriπtima i perivojima - dijelom otvorenima i za poglede πiroj javnosti. U 17. stoljeÊu, dok je Rusijom vladao Petar Veliki, a engleski fiziËar, matematiËar i astronom Isaac Newton veÊ objavio svoje ugledno znanstveno djelo MatematiËka naËela prirodne filozofije, dok u europskoj, posebice germanskoj baroknoj glazbi priznatoπÊu dominira Johann Sebastian Bach, Hrvatska - u sklopu tadaπnje Habsburπke Monarhije, veÊ ima svoju upravu, institucije, simbole i elemente dræavnosti.

Na tada razmjerno malom prostoru hrvatske uprave sagraeni su mnogi dvorci, kurije i ljetnikovci s perivojima, koji prednjaËe ljepotom svoje arhitekture. Jedan od njih, osobit po svojoj æivotnoj priËi, nedaleko od velikog Zagreba i maloga ZapreπiÊa, svakako je dvorac Luænica, dvorac u kojemu je æivot smisao i svrha, a ne samo prolazna vrijednost. Prostori i okruæja artikuliraju svoje simetrije, kristalne i skrivene strukture… Jedan prostor, jedno okruæje, jedno imanje u blizini Zagreba, kao manji luæniËki posjed, grofica Sofija Ratkaj Velikotaborska unosi u miraz svom suprugu Juliju »ikulinu, koji ga naknadno znaËajno poveÊava kupivπi dodatno poljoprivredno dobro od Susjedgradsko-stubiËkog vlastelinstva. »ikulini, porijeklom iz Italije, u Hrvatskoj se pojavljuju u 16. stoljeÊu. Æenidbenim vezama i unosnim trgovinskim poslovima stekli su znaËajna dobra. Pridonijeli su razvoju hrvatskih krajeva i Hrvatski sabor 1613. godine nagrauje priznanjem njihova plemstva, neπto poslije dodjeljuje im barunat, a 1706. i titulu grofova. Sredinom 18. stoljeÊa, nakon prodaje veÊeg posjeda u Hrvatskom zagorju, grof »ikulin prikupio je potrebna financijska sredstva te poËeo graditi jednokatni srednjoeuropski barokni dvorac, koji Êe sjevernom stranom gotovo uranjati u osam hektara engleskog perivoja s jezerom, πumarcima i πetnicama. Dvorac je barokno zdanje dovrπeno u drugoj polovici 18. stoljeÊa. Od trenutka posveÊenja grofovske kapele sv. Kriæa (u kasnobaroknom stilu) na prvom katu dvorca 1761. godine, u

dvorcu ne prestaje pulsiranje æivota. Od nastanka u dvorcu se stalno odvijaju aktivnosti, razliËita zbivanja i u njemu se ne osjeÊa sjetnost vremena. Tlocrt dvorca u obliku je potkove, zbog Ëega je otvoren, gostoljubiv i nerazdvojno povezan s okoliπem, a Ëetiri ugaona tornja, koja su veÊ tada bila namijenjena stanovanju - daju mu osobitu slikovitost. ProËelja ureπena rizalitom jasno naglaπavaju prozore sveËane dvorane na prvom katu. Luænica je jedan je od najslikovitijih dvoraca Hrvatskog zagorja i kulturni spomenik prve kategorije. S velikim okolnim perivojem i jezerom tvori jedinstvenu prostornu cjelinu. Prizemlje i podrumi dvorca bili su namijenjeni posluzi i gospodarskim potrebama, a prvi kat vlasnicima i njihovim gostima. I svodovi govore za sebe, u prizemlju su πturi, bez ukraπavanja, a u svodovima prvog kata vidljive su slikovne naznake. Ta dva odvojena prostora povezuje srediπnje stubiπte u predvorju, na Ëijoj je vertikali i vidljivo kad je sagraen ∑ 1791. godine. SveËana dvorana duπa je dvorca i jedina prostorija na katu koja se prostire cijelom πirinom dvorca do svojih izlaza na sjeverni (muπki) i juæni (æenski) balkon. Zanimljivo je da je æenski balkon napravljen s udubljenjima za krinoline, a muπki sjeverni ∑ ravan i bez potreba za takvim izumima. Dvorac obiluje umjetniËkim kaljevim peÊima koje se nalaze gotovo u svim prostorijama. One se i danas mogu upotrebljavati, a svojim izgledom, ukrasima i veliËinom pripovijedaju tajnovite pripovijesti o stanovnicima dvorca, koje su stoljeÊima grijale.

Dvorci, ta Ëudesna mjesta, Ëesto priËaju svoje priËe, uvijek originalne, nikad ponovljive. Jedan od njih, osobit po svojoj æivotnoj priËi, nedaleko od velikog Zagreba i maloga ZapreπiÊa, svakako je Luænica, dvorac u kojemu je æivot smisao i svrha, a ne samo prolazna vrijednost. Manors, these magical places, often have tales to tell, always original, never iterative. One of them, located not far from Zagreb, actually much closer to the smaller city of ZapreπiÊ, has a particularly interesting life story. Luænica is a manor where life has a meaning and a purpose, and not just an ephemeral value.

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BuduÊi da duπa artikulira ljudsku misao, a tako i aktivnosti koje iz njih proizlaze, prostor danaπnje Luænice i dalje odiπe mirom, istinom i Ëistim namjerama. Since the soul articulates human thoughts, as well as all activities which originate from those thoughts, the compound of Luænica still exudes tranquillity, truth and pure intentions. 16

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U vrijeme »ikulina teænja za reprezentativnoπÊu, estetskim oblikovanjem i udobnoπÊu dominirala je dvorcem, ali i poslije kad luæniËki posjed, nakon posljednjeg potomka Ivana Franje »ikulina te mnogih dioba i parnica, 1791. godine pripadne moÊnoj plemiÊkoj obitelji baruna Raucha, oni u njemu prepoznaju osobitost odabrane lokacije te ga i odabiru za glavno obiteljsko sjediπte. Obitelj Rauch njemaËkoga je porijekla, a u Hrvatsku dolazi u 17. stoljeÊu. U dvorcu se rodio, æivio i umro nagodbeni ban Levin Rauch, a mnogi Ëlanovi navedene plemiÊke obitelji obnaπali su, uz bansku, i druge visoke dræavniËke duænosti. Nakon smrti posljednjeg vlasnika dvorca baruna Geize Raucha 1925. godine, njegova supruga Ana Rauch odluËuje prodati dvorac sa svim pripadajuÊim zemljiπtem. Kupuje ga Red sestara milosrdnica sv. Vinka Paulskoga u svrhu smjeπtaja te odmaraliπta za stare i bolesne sestre. Prelazak dvorca Luænica u ruke Druæbe sestara milosrdnica sv. Vinka Paulskog razdjelna je crta njegove stare i nove misije. Iz plemstva kojemu se sluæi, luæniËko imanje prelazi u ruke koje sluæe. »udesna preobrazba namjene luæniËkog imanja s dvorcem vidljiva je i preko primijenjene poruke sv. Vinka Paulskog, koji iznosi vrijednosni stav da je pravom plemstvu veliËina u kreposti. Zbog ljubavi i predanosti sestara milosrdnica prema Gospi, dvorac Luænica 1928. godine dobiva naziv Marijin dvor te otad, pod tim imenom, djeluje i kao duhovno-obrazovni centar. Red sestara milosrdnica utemeljili su Vinko Paulski i Louise De Marillac 1633. godine u Parizu. U svojoj povijesti, Druæba sestara milosrdnica gradila je bolnice i domove za njegu starih i nemoÊnih te vrtiÊe i πkole, posebice na podruËju Francuske, Austrije i NjemaËke. Na zagovor hrvatskog biskupa Jurja Haulika 1845. godine, iz Tirola u Zagreb stiglo je πest sestara tog reda. Odmah poslije dolaska svoje djelovanje usmjerile su u πkolovanje siromaπnih djevojaka osnivanjem puËke πkole. VeÊ 1. sijeËnja 1858. sestre osnivaju i opÊu bolnicu sestara milosrdnica u sklopu samostana u Frankopanskoj ulici u Zagrebu s dvanaest kreveta, a nakon tri desetljeÊa 1893. poËinju vlastitim naporima podizati i novo bolniËko zdanje u Vinogradskoj ulici, gdje se i danas nalazi istoimeni KliniËki bolniËki centar. Sestre milosrdnice iz Marijina dvora u Luænici veliki su posjed marljivo obraivale, te redovito slale namirnice za prehranu siromaπnih bolesnika svoje bolnice u Vinogradskoj ulici. VeÊ 1895. godine, za vrijeme posjeta Zagrebu, car Franjo Josip obilazi bolnicu, zadivljen njezinom veliËinom i ureenjem. Bolnica je u


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to doba veÊ imala osam paviljona za bolesnike, centralno loženje i plinsku rasvjetu i bila poznata u ovom dijelu Europe. Godine 1926. Druæba otvara i Æensku realnu gimnaziju, koja do danas sustavno πiri istinsko znanje temeljeno na vrijednostima, u teænji da se ljudi otvaraju dobroti, bez posebne raËunice - podjednako kao i cvijet. BuduÊi da duπa artikulira ljudsku misao, a tako i aktivnosti koje iz njih proizlaze, prostor danaπnje Luænice i dalje odiπe mirom, istinom i Ëistim namjerama. Niπta se tu nije promijenilo. I dalje se Ëini dobro, ali naËini ostvarenja novih aktivnosti pristupom su uvijek protoËni, izazovni, fokusirano usmjereni. Luænica je i danas popriπte neposrednoga dobrotvornoga i prosvjetnog rada. Dvorac je ostao isti u svojoj arhitekturi, ali sadræajima obraÊa novu dimenziju vrijednosti okrenutu zajednici i svima onima koji Ëeznu za neËim viπim i uzviπenijim od samih sebe. Marijin dvor pruæa mnoge sadræaje koji unisono slijede njegovu misiju obrazovne aktivnosti i modularne edukacije, duhovne obnove, razliËite ponude tradicionalnih luæniËkih proizvoda koji nastaju marljivim radom sestara… Tu se odræavaju i glazbene veËeri meunarodnih glazbenih svetkovina, koje se od 2009. organiziraju u sveËanoj dvorani dvora ili u njegovu veliËanstvenome atrijskom dvoriπtu. PramaljeÊe u Luænici A.D. 2010 ili Luænica u smiraj ljeta A.D. 2011 nazivi su godiπnjih programa koji odiπu vrhunskim izvedbama glazbenika kao πto su veËeri s violinistom Stefanom MilenkoviÊem, gitaristom Edinom Karamazovim, mezzosopranisticom Blankom TkalËiÊ, baritonom Ronaldom Brausom, Kvartetom tuba XL… Godine 2011. u njemu Êe nastupiti i poznati ansambl stare glazbe Conjunto de Música Antiqua Ars Longa iz Havane s Kube. U njemu se podiæe i Zeleni centar edukacije za sve koji su usmjereni Suncu i njegovoj energiji, novim ekoloπkim tehnologijama, napretku koji uvaæava Prirodu kao ravnopravnog partnera. Djelima iskazujemo tko smo i Ëemu teæimo. Sestre koje stalno teæe dobrostivom napretku veÊ razmiπljaju o gradnji novoga djeËjeg vrtiÊa i staraËkog doma s hospicijem na zemljiπtu na kojemu su im sada gospodarske zgrade. I tu nije kraj. Projektom Zeleni dvorac Luænica u procesu je realizacija ugradnje geotermalnoga i solarnog sustava grijanja cijelog dvorca s osiguravanjem toplinske i rashladne energije. Dvorac je to koji ne pristaje na proπlost. U njemu se æivot upisuje velikim slovima jer njegova misija ne pristaje na kompromise ustraπenog konformizma. U njemu se djelima iskazuju oæivotvorena nadahnuÊa, koja govore i bez rijeËi. n 22

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f you meet a man who sings ∑ join him. If you meet a man who cries ∑ join him. Do not hesitate in choosing the moment when to come closer to a man ∑ every moment is the right one. (M. Gavran, Klara) People try to make their mark on any landscape; they bring their feelings into it and rearrange it to their taste. They explore nature with their minds and bodies and create a space which will become their home. Manors were built as representative dwellings for the nobility or royalty. Their sizes often exceeded rational needs. The purpose of their elaborate appearance or protective monumental size was chiefly to stand out from their natural environment and take away the observers’ breath. Up until the 16th century, they had a dual purpose: they served as residential and defence buildings ∑ burgs. After the middle ages, during the period of architectural renaissance, the defence elements were slowly abandoned and manors were gradually transformed into elegant building masterpieces with huge courtyards and parks which were partially opened for the general public to take a glance. In the 17th century, when Peter the Great ruled Russia and the English physician mathematician and astronomer Isaac Newton had already published his famous scientific work Mathematical Principles of Natural Philosophy; while European, and especially Germanic baroque music was dominated by Johann Sebastian Bach, Croatia, at the time a part of the Habsburg Monarchy, already had its administration, institutions, symbols and elements of statehood. Numerous castles, manors and stately country houses set in beautiful gardens and surrounded by large country parks were built in a relatively small area under the Croatian administration, and they enchanted with the beauty of their architecture. Spaces and environments articulate their symmetries, their crystal and hidden structures… One such space and location is an estate near Zagreb; a small manor in Luænica which was part of the dowry that countess Sofija Ratkaj of Veliki Tabor brought to the marriage with her fiancé Julije »ikulin, who in turn expanded the estate by purchasing adjacent farmland from the nobility of Susjedgrad and Stubica. The »ikulin family had come to Croatia from Italy in the 16th century and acquired substantial wealth through marriages and profitable business ventures. Their contribution to the prosperity of Croatian lands was rewarded by the Croatian Sabor in 1613 when their noble status was recognized. Shortly thereafter,


Sabor awarded them the title of barons, and in 1706 the title of counts. In the mid-18th century, after the sale of a rather large estate in Croatian Zagorje, Count »ikulin raised enough money to start building a one-storey central European baroque manor whose northern side rose from eight hectares of a landscaped park with a lake, groves and pathways. The baroque building was completed in the second half of the 18th century. Life has never stopped pulsating in the manor since the 1761 consecration of the chapel of St. Cross, built in the late baroque style on the first floor of the building. Since its very origin, the castle has always been the centre of activities and various events; the nostalgia of times gone by has never been felt here. The manor’s horse-shoe-like layout makes it seem open, hospitable and inseparably linked to its environment. The four flanking towers, which give it a special character, were intended for residential use from the very start. The façades decorated with a risalit emphasise the beauty of the grand ballroom windows on the first floor. Luænica is one of the most picturesque manors of Croatian Zagorje and a grade zero listed building. It makes a harmonious whole with a large park and a lake. The servants lived and worked on the castle’s ground floor and basement, whereas the first floor was occupied by the owners and their guests. The ceilings reflect the different uses of the building: sparsely decorated and austere on the ground floor, and with visible decorations on the first floor. These two separate areas are connected by a central staircase leading from the hallway which was built in 1791. The grand ballroom is the soul of the building and the only room on the first floor which extends along the entire width of the manor from the northern gentlemen’s balcony to the southern ladies’ balcony. Interestingly enough, the ladies’ balcony has curved walls to accommodate crinolines, whereas the northern gentlemen’s balcony was simple, as there was no need for such contraptions. The castle abounds in artistically designed masonry stoves which can be found in nearly every room and are still in good working order. Their appearances, ornaments and sizes keep the secrets of the manor’s inhabitants whom they have heated for centuries. While the manor was in the possession of the »ikulin family, it reflected the owner’s desire for grandeur, aesthetic appearance and comfort. The practice continued even after the death of the last »ikulin, Ivan Franjo, and throughout the period of numerous disputes and property divi-

sion lawsuits after which Luænica estate fell into the hands of the powerful noble family of baron Rauch in 1791. The new family recognized the special quality of the location and made it their principal family home. The Rauch family was of German descent. They had settled in Croatia in the 17th century. The acting ban (viceroy), Levin Rauch, was born in Luænica and lived there until his death. Besides being bans, the family members carried out other prominent state duties. In 1925, after the death of the last castle owner, Baron Geiza Rauch, his widow Ana Rauch decided to sell the castle and the land which belonged to it. It was bought by the Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul who turned it into a nursing home for elderly and frail sisters. The Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent de Paul becoming the new owners of Luænica manor marked a turning point in its history; a division line between its old and new missions. Having served as a home to those who were used to being served upon, it started being used by those whose hands were used to serving others. The miraculous transformation undergone by the Luænica estate and manor, in terms of its purpose and use, is reflected in the way the message of St. Vincent de Paul is applied; according to his value statement, the measure of true nobility is its virtue. Because of the sisters’ love and dedication towards Our Lady, in 1928 the Luænica manor was renamed Mary’s Court and has operated as a spiritual and educational centre under that name ever since. The Order of The Sisters of Charity was founded by Vincent de Paul and Louise de Marillac in 1633 in Paris. Throughout its history, the order has built hospitals and nursing homes for the elderly and infirm, as well as kindergartens and schools, particularly in France, Austria and Germany. Upon the intercession of Croatian Bishop Juraj Haulik in 1845, six sisters of that order arrived in Zagreb from Tyrol. Immediately thereafter, the nurses got down to work and dedicated their activities to the education of young girls from poor families and opened their first elementary school to serve that purpose. As early as 1 January 1858, they opened a general hospital of the Sisters of Charity with a total of 12 beds, on the premises of their convent in Frankopanska Street. Three decades later, in 1893, they started building a new hospital in Vinogradska Street, in the same location which is still the address of the namesake Clinical Centre. The Sisters of Charity who resided in Mary’s Court in Luænica worked hard on their land and regularly sent their produce to their hospital in Vinogradska Street where it was used to feed the poorest patients. CROATIA AIRLINES

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In 1895, Emperor Franz Joseph paid a visit to the hospital during his official stay in Zagreb and he was quite impressed with its size and appearance. At the time the hospital had eight pavilions for patients; it benefited from central heating and gas lighting and it enjoyed a very good reputation in this part of Europe. In 1926, the order opened a grammar school for girls, which continues to disseminate true knowledge based on values. The main idea has always been to open up the human mind towards goodness, without any special agenda, just like a flower opens its petals to the sun. Since the soul articulates human thoughts, as well as all activities which originate from those thoughts, the compound of Luænica still exudes tranquillity, truth and pure intentions. Nothing has changed here. Good deeds are still done; and the way in which new activities are carried out are always fluid, challenging and very focused. Luænica is still the scene of very hands-on, charitable and educational work. The manor’s architecture has not changed but the activities pursued in the manor have assumed a new set of values with the main focus being on community and all those who strive towards things higher and more solemn than they themselves. Programs organized in Mary’s Court are in unison with its mission: educational activities and modular educational programmes, spiritual renewal, and a range of different traditional products made by the hardworking nuns. The court is the stage of musical evenings which are featured as part of international music festivities which have been taking place

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in the castle’s grand ballroom or in its fascinating atrium since 2009. The titles of annual programmes include Spring in Luænica A.D. 2010 and Luænica at the end of Summer A.D. 2011. These programmes feature top class artists such as violinist Stefan MilenkoviÊ, guitarist Edin Karamazov, mezzo-soprano Blanka TkalËiÊ, baritone Ronald Braus, Tuba Quartet XL… In 2011, the famous early music ensemble, Conjunto de Música Antiqua Ars Longa, from Havana, Cuba, is expected to appear here. The work on the construction of the Green Education Centre is underway for all those who believe in the sun and its energy, new environmentally friendly technologies, and progress which respects nature as an equal partner. Our actions speak louder than words when it comes to who we are and what we subscribe to. The sisters, whose mission is to pursue benevolent progress, are already contemplating the construction of a new nursery and a home for the elderly with a hospice on the part of the land which currently houses their farm buildings. And even that is not all. The Green Manor Luænica project comprises the construction of a geothermal and solar heating system which will provide heating and air-conditioning for the entire manor. The manor simply will not settle for the past. Life is lived to the fullest here, as the manor’s mission simply does not tolerate compromises imposed by timid conformism. What goes on in the manor is the expression of inspirations which have come true and which speak for themselves, without any words needed. n


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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA ■

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Fotografije/Photos Saša PjaniÊ, Matija Turkalj, Oliver BešiÊ, Ivan Šemper

Zamislimo li Slavoniju kao kuÊu, Virovitica je njezin trijem. Iako je grad sjediπte VirovitiËko-podravske æupanije, u njemu se veÊ sasvim jasno osjeÊa miris i staloæenost Slavonije, πirina duπe, postojan mir, pritajena snaga i senzualnost πto dopiru s padina Bilogore. Zbog graanskog naËina æivota, radiπnosti i struËnosti i mnogih moguÊnosti kultiviranja razliËitih talenata, Virovitica je sjajno mjesto za æivot. If we imagine Slavonia as a house, Virovitica would be its porch. Although the city is officially the capital of Virovitica and Podravina County, it exudes a distinct scent and poise that is typical of Slavonia; an expansion of the soul, a steadfast calmness, a buried strength and sensuality which come from the slopes of Mount Bilogora. The way of life, the diligence and professionalism of its citizens, and the many opportunities to cultivate one’s own cultural and sport talents, make Virovitica a desirable place to live. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Virovitica se nalazi 147 km istoËno od Zagreba (2 sata voænje vlakom ili automobilom), a do Osijeka putnik mora prijeÊi joπ 128 km. Granica s Republikom Maarskom udaljena je 15 km pa je donedavno i srediπte Virovitice vrvjelo zbog meunarodnog prometa. To se promijenilo gradnjom zaobilaznice i vratilo neπto mirniji tempo gradu. Zacijelo ne postoji grad u Hrvatskoj koji se ljepπe rasprostire oko nekadaπnje utvrde, a kasnijeg dvorca s poËetka 19.stoljeÊa, nego Virovitica. Prvi poznatiji vlastelini koji su mjestu udarili peËat bili su PejaËeviÊi. Po odluci staroga grofa Antuna PejaËeviÊa sruπili su staru srednjovjekovnu utvrdu i u samo Ëetiri godine (od 1800. do 1804.) nastao je jedan od najljepπih hrvatskih kasnobaroknih-klasicistiËkih dvoraca. Naglaπeno je reprezentativan tako da istakne πto jaËe gospodstvo veleposjednika. ProËelje je s nizovima prozora prema trgu i s nizom dvostrukih arkada prema jugu, s pogledom u slikovit park, a srediπnjem dijelu posvetila se osobita pozornost. Iz balske dvorane na prvom katu izlazi se na velik i lijep balkon, s kojega pogled puca na ravnu cestu prema Maarskoj i s kojega se dobro mogao vidjeti dolazak koËije s Ëetveropregom. Dvorac je okruæen prekrasnim parkom s domaÊim vrstama kao πto su hrast, jasen i breza, ali u njemu su i stabla ginka, platana, divljeg kestena, kriptomerije i maklure, a cio je obrubljen alejom lipa. U nekadaπnjim opkopima bila je voda pa su se zimi ovdje sklizala djeca i mlada gospoda. Godine 1841. PejaËeviÊi dvorac i imanje prodaju njemaËkom knezu Schaumburg-Lippe, a 1911. uvelike smanjeno imanje i dvorac kupuje grof Ivan DraπkoviÊ. Dvorac veÊ 1931. godine prodaje gradu, koji se njime koristi za muzej, knjiænicu, radiopostaju, za pjevaËka i kulturna druπtva. Sklad dvorca utjecao je na sliku grada, no tijekom sedamdesetih i osamdesetih godina 20. st. dio je starijih zgrada u srediπtu mjesta sruπen i zamijenjen suvremenijim i nezgrapnijim graevinama. No dvorac i dalje poput sunca dominira gradom, a oko njega πiri se sedam glavnih ulica koje ga okruæuju poput zraka. Zimi je osobito Ëaroban prizor kad se niz padine i meu drveÊem spuπtaju sanjkama djeca i poneki odrasli. Kontinuitet naseljenosti postoji veÊ od mlaega kamenog doba, a s majura iz obliænjeg Antunovca dolaze keramiËki predmeti kulture æarnih polja. Kelti Viroviticu nastanjuju u 4. st. i ostavljaju tragove u lonËarstvu i kovanicama, a u vrijeme Rimljana (1.-5. st.) postoji vojna postaja. Hrvati dolaze potkraj 6. i u poËetku 7. stoljeÊa, a na sadaπnjem platou

PejaËeviÊeva dvorca vrlo je rano sagraena zemljano-drvena srednjovjekovna utvrda, o Ëijem postojanju svjedoËe mnogobrojni arheoloπki nalazi. Prvi pisani dokumenti Viroviticu spominju kao slobodno trgoviπte (oppidum magna villa Wereucha), a izdao ih je herceg Koloman 1234. godine. Ali veÊini stanovnika Republike Hrvatske vaæniji je dokument πto ga je izdao Kolomanov brat kralj Bela IV. u virovitiËkoj utvrdi, koju je naslijedio nakon smrti brata i u kojoj je 16. studenoga 1242. znamenitom Zlatnom bulom zagrebaËki Gradec proglasio slobodnim kraljevskim gradom. Virovitica je u to doba bila izravni posjed hrvatsko-ugarskih kraljeva, a povlastice je Virovitici proπirila kraljica Marija 1248., supruga Bele IV. VirovitiËani su tako bili osloboeni od obiËnih davanja πto su ih vlastelinu morali davati kmetovi, ali imaju obavezu tadaπnjoj srediπnjoj vlasti o Miholju plaÊati 400 maraka u novcu i godiπnju daÊu u naravi: 600 hljebova, 100 kokoπi, πest uskrsnih volova, 60 vjedara vina i 100 kabala æita. Uz kraljevsku utvrdu i dvor razvilo se i trgoviπno predgrae, odnosno suburbium. U njemu su, uz kmetove, æivjeli i slobodni graani koji su bili uglavnom obrtnici i trgovci, a prvi put tu se naseljavaju 1280. godine i franjevci te æive u drvenom samostanu. Posjed u sljedeÊim stoljeÊima mijenja vlasnike sve dok Viroviticu 2. kolovoza 1552. nije pokorio poæeπki Ulama-beg s velikom janjiËarskom vojskom. Pod osmanlijskom upravom Virovitica je ostala 132 godine. Osloboditelje je vodio ban Nikola Erdödy, a beg Ali Mufti pod Viroviticom je izgubio 1200 vojnika. Petnaestoga srpnja 1684. dopuπteno je islamskom stanovniπtvu ∑ oko 600 muπkaraca i 1200 æene i djece ∑ da napusti Viroviticu. VeÊ 1688. godine vraÊaju se franjevci i grade æupnu crkvu i samostan, a zaπtitnik postaje sv. Rok. Godine 1746. na istome mjestu franjevci polaæu temeljni kamen za najljepπu kasnobaroknu crkvu tog dijela Hrvatske. Glavni oltar sv. Roka ukraπen je rokoko plastikom, a osobito je vrijedna barokna propovjedaonica koju je crkvi darovao kotarski sudac Karlo OdobaπiÊ. Prekrasan vrt, oslikana blagovaonica, franjevaËka apoteka, crkveni zbor i franjevaËka duhovnost oblikovali su tada, a Ëine to i danas, duhovnu sliku grada. Nakon osloboenja od Turaka, Viroviticom upravlja Kraljevska komora koja obnavlja trgoviπte i svoju samoupravu sa sucem na Ëelu. U grad se ponovno u veÊem broju naseljavaju obrtnici i trgovci, osnivaju se i prve cehovske udruge. NajËeπÊi su obrtnici Ëizmari, lonËari, krojaËi, krznari, opanËari, kovaËi, uæari, cipelari, kljuËari, baËvari, kolari

i remenari, kako pokazuje popis Hamiltonove komisije iz 1736. godine. Cehovi su bili obrtniËka strukovna udruæenja koja su bdjela nad izobrazbom u struci, kontrolirala kvalitetu proizvodnje i nelojalnu konkurenciju, a udruæivanje je omoguÊavalo i sigurnije uvjete æivota i dostojne pogrebe. Povlastice su dobivali od vladara, a djelovali su preko cehovskih skupπtina. U Gradskome muzeju Ëuvaju se razliËiti naukovni listovi, ukraπene povlastice opanËara, remenara i Ëizmarskog ceha i nekoliko prekrasnih πkrinja koje su sluæile kao blagajna i spremnica cehovskih isprava i za cehovski peËatnjak. Nakon revolucije 1848. godine stvara se sve viπe graansko kapitalistiËko druπtvo, cehovi gube vaænost i ukidaju se 1872. godine. No veÊ 1874. godine u gradu djeluje Prva ujedinjena zadruga virovitiËkih obrtnika i Obrtna zadruga svetoga Ivana Krstitelja. Ta povijest virovitiËkih obrta upozorava na viπestoljetnu tradiciju i ponos zbog Ëestitog rada i svladanih znanja koja su se vrlo Ëesto prenosila s oca na sina, pa i na unuka. Ne Ëudi stoga πto i danas u Virovitici ima 619 aktivnih registriranih obrta, a mnogo je i malih poduzetnika (737). Iskustvo i znanje urodili su i odræavanjem meunarodnog sajma gospodarstva, obrta i poljoprivrede Viro-Expo svake godine u sijeËnju. Lani je bilo 603 izlagaËa i gotovo 23.000 posjetitelja. Ipak, najveÊi su poslodavci TVIN, nastao iz DioniËkog druπtva za izradu lijesa osnovanoga 1913. godine, i πeÊerana Viro. TVIN danas zapoπljava oko 1300 radnika, poznat je po proizvodnji uredskog namjeπtaja, a od 1984. za πvedsku IKEU proizvodi program za opremanje ureda. Viro zapoπljava oko 300 djelatnika. Zbog velike koliËine proizvedenog πeÊera i meda Viroviticu mnogi stoga smatraju najslaim gradom Hrvatske! Stvari ne nastaju preko noÊi, vaæno je stoga poznavati i Ëuvati baπtinu i pripremati je kao nadahnuÊe i podrπku novim naraπtajima. To se Ëini u Gradskome muzeju Virovitica, smjeπtenome u nekadaπnjem dvorcu PejaËeviÊ. Muzej sadræava arheoloπku, kulturno-povijesnu, etnografsku zbirku i likovnu donaciju Branimira Glumca, zagrebaËkog pisca i likovnog kritiËara, roenog VirovitiËanina, u kojoj su djela Jordana, Tartaglie, HegeduπiÊa, StanËiÊa, LackoviÊa, GeneraliÊa i drugih znaËajnih autora. Kustosice predano i struËno bdiju nad proπlim postignuÊima i zbog njihove brige dostupna su javnosti. Vaæno je imati uzore i slijediti ih. U gospodarskom smislu dobar je primjer nekadaπnjega malog diva, poduzeÊa Flora za proizvodnju umjetnog cvijeÊa, koje je robom opskrbljivalo cijelo træiπte bivπe dræave i joπ k tome proizvode izvozilo u inozemstvo. Poπto je potrebnu CROATIA AIRLINES

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opremu kupio u BeËu 1920. godine, i iz BeËa doveo tri radnice, Josip Polak svoju tvrtku veÊ 1929. prodaje Dragi »eledi i Flora biljeæi uspjeh za uspjehom. U tvornici je radilo 16 radnica, a asortiman je proizvoda bio vrlo velik. Nadaleko su bili poznati mirta- vijenci za mladenke i buketi koje su nosile na vjenËanje (jorgovan, ruæe, granËice jabukova cvijeta). U tvornici su se izraivali i pogrebni vijenci, a uz prototipove proizvoda izloæen je i alat (πtance, kalupi, æeljezne kuglice za oblikovanje latica i specijalne pincete). Svake godine Drago »eleda odlazio bi na sajmove u Budimpeπtu, BeË i Frankfurt, a bio je poznat i po svom fordu kabrioletu iz 1929., kojim je obilazio kupce u cijeloj bivπoj dræavi. »eleda je primjer poduzetnika koji je veÊ tada umio poslovati u okvirima znatno veÊima od grada u kojemu je æivio. Godine 1960. poduzeÊe Flora prodaje gradu. Tijekom vremena Flora smanjuje proizvodnju umjetnog cvijeÊa i postaje suvremeno komunalno poduzeÊe koje u posebnoj akciji uljepπavanja okuÊnica uvijek kao dar grada graanima dijeli besplatne sadnice tako da grad blista cvijeÊem ne samo na javnim povrπinama, nego i na mnogim okuÊnicama i balkonima. VirovitiËani se osobito diËe i svojom dugom novinarskom tradicijom, tà` list VirovitiËan izaπao je prvi put 1899. godine na hrvatskom jeziku, u vrijeme kad takve novine joπ nije imao, recimo, mnogo veÊi Osijek, a najzasluæniji za to bio je Ivan DobravecPlevnik. No kljuË za razumijevanje Virovitice dala je viπa kustosica u Gradskome muzeju Dubravka SaboliÊ rekavπi: VirovitiËani se druæe kroz druπtva. I tada Ëovjeku postaje jasna atmosfera gradiÊa koji uvelike nalikuje na engleski countryside istoËne Anglije po obilju zelenila, blago valovitim padinama, draæesnim vedutama, brigom za tradicijsku gradnju poËetu joπ u vrijeme bivπe ravnateljice muzeja Mr. DraganiÊ i brojnoπÊu udruga i druπtava, tj. klubova. Statut dobrotvornoga druπtva osnovanoga 12. travnja 1858. upozorava na postojanje potrebe za zajedniπtvom i svijesti da tek sloæna suradnja omoguÊuje napredak sredini. Osobit oblik druæenja tijekom 19. st. bile su Ëitaonice i knjiænice organizirane poput srednjoeuropskih sliËnih klubova ∑ kasina. U njima se Ëitalo, raspravljalo, igrale se razliËite druπtvene igre i organiziralo zabave. Godine 1877. sluæbeno je registrirano i Dobrovoljno vatrogasno druπtvo, koje je takoer nudilo i raznovrstan druπtveni æivot. Jedno od najvaænijih druπtava osnovano je 1880. g. i djeluje do danas, a rijeË je o Hrvatskome pjevaËkom druπtvu Rodoljub. Glazba ugaa duπu i godi mnogima, gradu daje osobit 32

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Ëar, a amaterima mjesto da uz svakodnevan rad kultiviraju i njeguju vlastite muze, pa se tako ubrzo osniva i Gradski puhaËki orkestar, glazbena πkola i tamburaπko druπtvo Sloga. Zanimljivo je da je grad dobio nedavno i zanimljiv podmladak u obliku Brass Quinteta. Godine 1900. otvoreno je i amatersko kazaliπte, koje veÊ nekoliko desetljeÊa djeluje uspjeπno kao profesionalno kazaliπte. Osim glazbe i kazaliπta, graani Virovitice osobito vole sport. U poËetku 20. st. postoji teniski klub, biciklistiËki i sklizaËki klub. StreljaËko je druπtvo Ëak iz 1861., ribolovci se organiziraju 1904., Hrvatski sokol osnovan je 1906., slijede kuglaËki klub, πahovsko druπtvo, planinarsko druπtvo Papuk, viπe je lovaËkih druπtava, a najpopularniji su sportovi rukomet i nogomet. Danas su vrlo aktivni i ekolozi, a likovnjaci se okupljaju u likovnom druπtvu Nikole Tricka. Prednost je malih gradova poput Virovitice (23.000 stanovnika) da je sve vrlo pregledno i jasno i da postoje znaËajni pojedinci koji mijenjaju æivote, kao npr. poznati gimnazijski profesor Martin BaliÊ, zatim Thea BlaæekoviÊ koja je naraπtaje poduËavala njemaËkom jeziku, uzgajala ruske hrtove i skupljala hrvatsku naivnu umjetnost, ili slavna obitelj Trick. KuÊa Trick malo je izvan gradskog srediπta, smjeπtena u gnijezdo breza. Graanski salon s glasovirom bio je srediπte majke Grete (ro. Reitter), profesorice glasovira i fotoamaterke koja se udala za Stjepana Tricka (studirao na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu). Stjepan Trick od 1920. godine predavao je prostoruËno risanje, deskriptivnu geometriju i crtanje u Realnoj gimnaziji u Virovitici i trajno ostavio trag u doæivljajnosti mnogih naraštaja. Oba sina, Nikola i Teodor, zavrπili su akademiju likovnih umjetnosti. Nikola je zgusnuo doæivljaj Virovitice u poznatim kroπnjama kojima je dodirnuo vjeËnost, a svakodnevicu mu slave mnogi crteæi grada i viπe od stotinu portreta. Teodor je bio dizajner i jedan od prvih hrvatskih crtaËa stripa, æivio je i radio u Rijeci, a mirovinu s mirom i radno provodi u Virovitici. Zbog ljubavi meu Ëlanovima obitelji, zanimljivosti, otvorenosti i kultiviranosti graanskog salona njihov je dom bio srediπte kulture i zabave, a ljeti je postajao ladanjsko carstvo. U Virovitici mijeπaju se slavonska duπa i naËin æivota engleske provincije i zato je zanimljiva mnogim pridoπlicama koji u njoj ostaju, a gosti se uvijek iznova vraÊaju ladanjskom odmoru πto u svako godiπnje doba nudi znatne Ëari. n

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irovitica is located 147 km east of Zagreb (and it can be reached in two hours by train or car). In order to reach the city of Osijek you have to drive

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another 128 kilometres past Virovitica. The border with the Republic of Hungary is a mere 15 kilometres away, which explains why the centre of Virovitica was a hub for international traffic until recently when a slower pace of life returned to the city as a result of the construction of a bypass. There are probably no other cities in Croatia which have spread out so pleasingly from a building that started as a fortress and developed into a palace in the early 19th century. The first known nobles who put their mark on the city were the PejaËeviÊ family. The old count Antun PejaËeviÊ decided to demolish the old medieval fortress and construct what would become one of the most beautiful late-baroque classicistic palaces in Croatia. It took him only four years (from 1800 to 1804) to complete his project. Its features were designed to highlight the noble landowners’ noble status. The façade features several rows of windows which overlook the square and a row of double arches which faces southward and has a view of a picturesque park. Special attention was paid to the central part of the palace during construction. The first floor ballroom opens up to a beautiful and spacious balcony which has a view of a straight road that leads towards Hungary. The arrival of a horsedrawn carriage could easily be seen from this elegant observation deck. The palace is set in a beautiful park which has indigenous trees such as oak, ash and birch, as well as ginkgo, plane, horse chestnut, Cryptomeria and horse apple trees. The arboured walk around the palace features linden trees. The ditches were once filled with water and in the winter they served as a skating rink for children and young gentlemen. In 1841 the PejaËeviÊ family sold the property to the German prince of Schaumburg-Lippe, and in 1911 the ownership of the palace and the estate, which had dwindled in size, was passed on to count Ivan DraπkoviÊ. In 1931 he sold the palace to the city, which used its premises as a museum, library, radio station and the rehearsal rooms for a choir and arts and culture societies. The palace’s harmonious appearance played a big role in shaping the image of the entire city. However, during the 1970s and 1980s, some old houses in the centre were demolished and replaced by more modern and awkward buildings. The palace has remained standing and, like the sun, dominates the city. Seven main streets radiate from it like sunrays. In wintertime the scene is particularly magical with children and an occasional adult sleighing down the slopes through the trees. 36

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There is evidence of continuous habitation since the Early Stone Age. Artefacts dating back to the Urnfield culture have been discovered on a farming estate in nearby Antunovac. The Celts who inhabited Virovitica in the 4th century left their traces in the shape of pottery and coins. During the Roman times (1st to 5th centuries) there was a military station. Croats arrived in the late 6th and early 7th century. Many archaeological finds prove that an earthen and wooden medieval fort existed at the location of the present PejaËeviÊ Palace from very early on. The earliest written document which mentions Virovitica as a free market town (oppidum magna villa Wereucha) originates from 1234 and bears the signature of Herzeg Koloman. However, Croatians are more familiar with another document issued in the Virovitica fortress by Koloman’s brother, Bela IV, who had inherited it from his brother. On 16 November 1242, he drafted the famous Zlatna bula (Golden Bull), by which he bestowed the status of a free royal city upon Zagreb’s Gradec. Virovitica, property of Croatian and Hungarian kings at the time, had its privileges extended in 1248 by Queen Maria, the wife of Bela IV. Consequently, Virovitica’s residents were exempt from the taxes that serfs were obliged to pay to their lords. Instead, they paid taxes to the central government in Miholj: 400 marks in money and annual dues in kind, 600 loaves of bread, 100 hens, 6 Easter oxen, 60 barrels of wine, and 100 tubs of cereals. Merchant suburbs, or suburbium, sprung up around the royal fort and court. They were inhabited by serfs as well as by free citizens, mostly craftsmen and merchants. The first Franciscan monks settled in the area in 1280 and made a wooden monastery their abode. The estate changed owners several times until 2 August 1552 when Virovitica was conquered by Ulama ∑ Bey of Poæega and a large army of janizaries. Virovitica remained under Osmanli rule for 132 years. The liberating army was led by Viceroy Nikola Erdödy, while Bey Ali Mufti lost 1200 soldiers at Virovitica. On 15 July 1684, the Islamic population of Virovitica (around 600 men and 1200 women and children) was allowed to leave town. Franciscan monks returned to the city in 1688 and constructed a parish church and a monastery. St. Roch became the patron saint of the city. In 1746, at that same place, the Franciscan monks laid a foundation stone for the most beautiful late-baroque church in that part of Croatia. The main altar, dedicated to St. Roch, is decorated with rococo plasterwork. The baroque pulpit, which was 38

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a gift to the church by the district judge Karlo OdobaπiÊ, is particularly valuable. The beautiful garden, decorated refectory, Franciscan pharmacy, church choir and Franciscan spirituality have shaped the spiritual identity of the city. After the liberation from the Turks, Virovitica was governed by the Royal Chamber, which restored the market place and the city’s self-governance, and the judge was the head of the local administration. Craftsmen and tradesmen started to flock to the city and they soon established the first guilds. According to the register of Hamilton’s commission compiled in 1736, most of the craftsmen were boot makers, pot makers, tailors, furriers, blacksmiths, rope makers, shoemakers, key makers, barrel makers and belt makers. Guilds were professional associations of craftsmen which watched over the professional training of their members, exercised quality control and made sure there was no unfair competition. Membership in the guild also guaranteed better living conditions and dignified funerals. The guilds received their privileges from their rulers, while they exercised their rights through guild assemblies. The City Museum holds different professional certificates, decorated charters of the shoemakers, belt makers and boot makers’ guilds, and a few beautiful chests which served as coffers and strongboxes for the guilds’ documents and stamps. The 1848 revolution gave rise to a civil society and capitalism. The guilds gradually lost their importance until they were finally abolished in 1872. However, the first United Association of Virovitica’s Craftsmen and the Craftsmen’s Association of John the Baptist became active in Virovitica in 1874. The history of Virovitica’s craftsmen reflects a centuries-old tradition. The pride that they took in working honestly and the skills they acquired were often handed down from one generation to the next, from a grandfather to a son and even a grandson. It is therefore not surprising that Virovitica currently boasts a total of 619 registered crafts and 737 small businesses. Their experience and knowledge is displayed at an international trade, crafts and agriculture fair which takes place every January under the name Viro-Expo. Last year there were 603 exhibitors and nearly 23,000 visitors. However, the biggest employers are the furniture industry TVIN and the Viro sugar processing plant. TVIN was incepted in 1913 as a shareholding company for the production of coffins. Today the factory employs around 1,300 workers and is best known for the pro-

duction of high quality office furniture, much of which is sold in IKEA stores worldwide. The cooperation between TVIN and the Swedish retail giant started in 1984. Viro has about 300 employees. Due to the large output of sugar and honey, Virovitica is considered by many as the sweetest city in Croatia! Nothing is created over night. It is therefore important to cherish one’s legacy and prepare it as a source of inspiration and support for future generations. The custodian of Virovitica’s history is the City Museum of Virovitica, housed in the former PejaËeviÊ Palace. The museum’s holdings are divided into an archaeological, cultural, historical and ethnographic collection. There is also a donation by Branimir Glumac, a writer and art critic who was born in Virovitica and lived and worked in Zagreb. His art collection boasts works by Jordan, Tartaglia, HegeduπiÊ, StanËiÊ, LackoviÊ, GeneraliÊ and other significant authors. The dedication and devotion of highly professional curators plays a pivotal role in presenting the museum’s treasures to the general public. It is important to have role models and to follow in their footsteps. In economic terms, a good example to follow would be the former small, yet strong, company Flora, a manufacturer which produced artificial flowers and sold its wares on the entire market of the former state, as well as exported a significant share of its production. Having purchased the necessary production equipment in Vienna in 1920, and having brought three skilled Viennese workers to Virovitica, Josip Polak sold his company to Drago »eleda in 1929. Since then the story of Flora has been a story of entrepreneurial successes. The manufacturer had 16 workers and an impressive range of products in its portfolio. The manufacturer’s biggest claims to fame were myrtle bridal garlands and bridal bouquets made of lilac, roses, and apple blossom. The factory also produced funeral wreaths. Together with the prototypes of the factory’s products, there were also tools on display (presses, moulds, iron balls used to shape the flowers’ petals and special tweezers). Drago »eleda visited fairs in Budapest, Vienna and Frankfurt every year. His trademark was his 1929 Ford convertible, in which he called on his buyers across the entire former state. »eleda is an example of an entrepreneur whose mind for business surpassed the boundaries of the city he lived in. He sold his company, Flora, to the city in 1960. As time went by Flora reduced the production of artificial flowers and has since become a modern municipal company that organizes special


gardening actions and donates seedlings to the citizens so that the city is full of flowers, not only in public areas but also in gardens and on balconies. Virovitica is particularly proud of its long tradition in journalism. The first issue of the VirovitiËan newspaper in Croatian was printed in 1899, at the time when even the much larger city of Osijek did not have such a paper. Ivan Dobravec-Plevnik was the one who deserved most of the credit for its publication. However, the senior curator of the City Museum, Ms. Dubravka SaboliÊ, provided the best key to understanding the mentality of Virovitica when she said: Citizens of Virovitica socialize in their associations. This sentence explains the atmosphere of this little town which greatly resembles the English countryside of East Anglia with its lush greenery, rolling hills, charming features and loving care of its traditional architecture, which started with the former head of the museum Ms. DraganiÊ, as well as the vast number of societies, associations and clubs. The statute of a charity association, which was founded on 12 April 1858, highlights the need for unity and points out that unity and cooperation are the preconditions of

progress. Very popular places for socializing in the 19th century were reading rooms and libraries, which functioned as Central European clubs or casinos where people read, debated, played table games and organized parties and festivities. 1877 was the year of the official registration of the Voluntary Firemen’s Association, which also included diverse social activities. One of the most important associations, which remains active to this very day, is the Croatian Choir Rodoljub (Patriot), which was established in 1880. Music is food for the soul and many people are involved in it. Music gives a special charm to the city and provides amateurs with an opportunity to cultivate their own muses after work. As a result of this the choir was quickly followed by the establishment of the City Wind Orchestra, a music school and the tamburitza players’ association Sloga (Unity). Interestingly enough, as of recently, the cultural life in the city has been enhanced by a Brass Quintet composed of a group of youngsters. The amateur theatre, which was first opened in 1900, has been a professional theatre for a few decades already. Apart from music and theatre, the citizens of Virovitica are particularly partial CROATIA AIRLINES

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to sports. In the early 20th century there was a tennis club, a cyclist club and a skating club. The shooting club dates back to 1861; fishermen organized their club in 1904; the Hrvatski sokol was founded in 1906 and it was soon followed by a bowling club, a chess club and the Papuk mountaineering club. The most popular sports are handball and football. The eco-movement is very strong, whereas art lovers rally around Nikola Trick’s art society. The main advantage of small towns the size of Virovitica (23,000 inhabitants) is that everything is very transparent and clear, and there are always significant individuals who influence the lives of many others, such as the well known grammar school teacher Martin BaliÊ; Thea BlaæekoviÊ, who taught German to a number of generations, bred greyhounds and collected naïve art; as well as the famous Trick family. The Trick family house is located slightly out of the city centre, nestled in a birch grove. The mother, Greta (née Reitter), held court in the bourgeois salon which contained a piano. She was a piano teacher and amateur photographer. She married Stjepan Trick, a former student of the Fine Art Academy in Zagreb. As of 1920, Stjepan Trick taught drawing and descriptive geometry at the Virovitica Grammar School, and he also had an influence on many generations’ appreciation of art. Both their sons, Nikola and Teodor, graduated from the Fine Art Academy. Nikola’s sublime perception of Virovitica is reflected in the famous images of tree tops with which he has touched the eternity, whereas his townscapes, and more than one hundred portraits, have provided fantastic insight into the everyday life of Virovitica. Teodor is a designer and one of the first Croatian comic book drawers. He lived and worked in Rijeka. When he retired he moved back to Virovitica where he continues to work a little and live his life as a pensioner. Love and respect among the family members, their openness and refinement, have made their home the centre of culture and entertainment, particularly in the summer when it becomes the centre of country life. The way of life, the diligence and professionalism of its citizens, and the many opportunities to cultivate one’s own cultural and sport talents, make Virovitica a desirable place to live. The Slavonian soul and a way of life that is reminiscent of the English countryside, make an interesting blend which has inspired many to move to Virovitica. Visitors appreciate it as a place to escape to the countryside, where many charming and attractive features can be found any time of year. n 40

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■ SLAVONIJA IZ ZRAKA sLAVONIA - A BIRD’S EYE View

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Ivan MajiÊ

Slavonija, nizinsko podruËje na istoku Hrvatske, lijepa je gledajuÊi i sa zemlje, ali upravo spektakularna iz zraka. Osobito u ranu jesen kad iz dubine Zemljine utrobe na povrπinu izau sve Ëudesne boje, zelena, æuta, smea, plava i crvena. Slavonia, the lowland area in the east of Croatia, offers beautiful vistas from the ground level and nothing short of breathtaking views from the air. The landscape is particularly fascinating in early autumn when all the marvellous shades of green, yellow, brown, blue and red surface from the belly of the earth.

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a, uistinu je lijepa Slavonija. Kad polja postanu podloga na kojoj priroda iscrtava geometrijske likove πto izgledaju kao da su ih projektirali vrsni matematiËari, kad se ravnica odjednom uzburka i podignu valovi kao reminiscencije na ovdje davno presahlo Panonsko more, kad moËvare nacionalnog parka KopaËki rit isijavaju na suncu pacifiËkom modrinom, kad... Svega je toga u izobilju na prostoru omeenom Dravom, Dunavom i Savom. Fotografije slavonskog vatrometa ljepote kao da su siπle s platna starih slikarskih

majstora, pri Ëemu su impresionistiËki zahvati kistom izmijeπani sa strogim Mondrianovim potezima. Veoma je to teπko uklopiti u pomalo banalne stereotipe o Slavoniji - æitnici Hrvatske, tvornici hrane pod otvorenim nebom, zemlji kulena, slanine, tamburaπa, snaπa i beÊara. Premda je Slavonija, dakako, i sve to. NeÊe ona iznevjeriti ni ljude kojima larpurlartistiËko umiranje u ljepoti nije dovoljno za kompletan doæivljaj nekog kraja. Poπto se Ëovjek nauæiva Slavonije svisoka i sleti na jedan od lokalnih sportskih aero-

droma, oËekuju ga mnogi ovozemaljski uæici. Uz granicu, u hrvatskom rukavcu s tri strane okruæenom teritorijem susjedne Srbije, smjestio se Ilok. Izdiæe se iznad Dunava, a okruæuju ga obronci Fruπke gore, koji su se protegli do kuÊnih pragova IloËana, njih oko osam tisuÊa. I u tim se padinama krije iloËko blago. Vinogradi. Ne bilo kakvi, nego izvor kvalitetih, πiroko poznatih sorta vina. Frankovka, cabernet sauvi­ gnon, chardonay, graπevina, bijeli pinot, rajnski rizling... Ali, kralj je ipak traminac Ëiji raskoπni buké draæi i nepce engleske kraljevske obitelji. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Nema u Iloku ulice bez barem jednoga vinskog podruma, a unutra, u blaæenoj hladovini, uz dobru kapljicu, na volju su namjerniku i suhomesnati specijaliteti. A onda Dunave, Dunave, kraj tebe mi srce moje ostade… I tako uzvodno do mitskog Vukovara. Kad se barokni grad 1991. godine naπao pod vojnom opsadom, u pariπkoj podzemnoj æeljeznici neËija je senzibilna ruka preko imena postaje Staljingrad nalijepila - Vukovar. Mnogo se otad vode iz Vuke ulilo u Dunav, grad se pokuπava srediti i vratiti prijeratni πarm. VuËedolsko arheoloπko nalaziπte iz neolitika i dalje je tu, obnovljen je dvorac Eltz, nekretnina u vlasniπtvu gospodara vukovarskog feuda, na dunavskoj adi opet se na piknicima pripremaju æestoki Ëobanci. No glavna mjesta vukovarskih turistiËkih itinerara danas su ipak veliki kriæ s natpisom Navik on æivi ki zgine poπteno na uπÊu Vuke u Dunav, granatama izranjavani vodotoranj, Memorijalno groblje koje sa svojim pravilno rasporeenim bijelim kriæevima podsjeÊa na Arlington i jezovita farma, grobnica OvËara. U susjedstvu - Vinkovci. Jedno od najveÊih æeljezniËkih Ëvoriπta u bivπoj državi. Hrastove i jasenove πume uz doline Bosuta. A u rujnu svake godine, veÊ gotovo pola stoljeÊa, ©okci VinkovaËkim jesenima nastoje od zaborava otrgnuti narodne obiËaje, svoje i strane. Upregnu konje i podvriskuju u mimohodu pokazujuÊi πlingane noπnje. Kad se umore od folklora, onda tek poËinje prava zabava. Do jutra. Vesela je ©okadija. –akovaËka katedrala svetog Petra najljepπa je crkva izmeu Venecije i Carigrada, rekao je struËnjak za takve stvari, papa Ivan XXIII. PoËeo ju je graditi biskup Josip Juraj Strossmayer 1866., a zavrπena je 16 godina poslije. S konstrukcijom je joπ bilo razmjerno lako, 46

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za nju su dovoljne bile Ëetiri godine i sedam milijuna komada opeka, izraenih iz kamena dovezenoga iz Maarske, Austrije, Italije i Francuske. Interijer je bio mnogo zahtjevniji, na dekoracijske radove πto su ih vodili njemaËki slikari, otac i sin Seitz, potroπeno je daljnjih 12 godina. Ali, vrijedilo je. U katedrali su sedam oltara, 43 freske, 31 kip, 32 reljefa te orgulje sa 73 registratora. Nakon obilaska sakralne znamenitosti, preporuËuje se posjet akovaËkoj ergeli lipicanskih konja. Iz –akova, 33 kilometra autocesta Slavonika vodi u Osijek, slavonsku metropolu. Biser je grada na Dravi Tvra, stara povijesna jezgra πto su je austrijske vlasti gradile od 1712. do 1722. godine. U Tvri su veÊ tada standard bili vodovod i kanalizacija, kao i gimnazija, tiskara i kazaliπte. Danas je Tvra spomenik nulte kategorije, ali preuzeli su je mladi. Osobito vikendom prepuni su noÊni klubovi i kafiÊi interpolirani u stara zdanja. Glazbeni æanrovi mijeπaju se u osjeËkoj noÊi. Ujutro, pak, ljeti, za osvjeæenje nakon ludog provoda posluæit Êe Copacapana. Nije ta plaæa baπ poznata kao ona u Rio de Janieru po kojoj je dobila ime, no za kupanje i tamnjenje viπe je nego dobra. U Osijek iz KopaËkog rita dolijeÊu golema jata dosadnih komaraca. Teπko se s njima nositi. Ali ti su komarci samo dokaz da niπta nije savrπeno. Gotovo sve ostalo u KopaËkom ritu Ëovjeka ostavlja bez daha. Na tom prostoru nastalom plavljenjem Drave i Dunava krije se Ëudesan spomenik flore i faune. U takozvani Ramsarski popis 1700 vaænih meunarodno znaËajnih podruËja 1993. godine uvrπten je i KopaËki rit. Divlje svinje tumaraju tu kaljuæama, jeleni plivaju u barama i riËu u potrazi za æivotnim druæicama, kornjaËe se rado zadræavaju uz nasipe, gdje su na oku

orlovima πtekavcima, a njihova jaja zakopana u pijesak Ëesto postaju plijen lisica... Sibirska plava perunika rijetka je biljka u ovom dijelu Europe, ali u KopaËkom ritu prostre se i na nekoliko hektara. Da, uistinu je lijepa Slavonija. n

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es, indeed, Slavonia is beautiful. The fields serve as a huge canvas on which nature draws geometrical shapes as if designed by the best expert mathematicians; the plain suddenly becomes rough and waves seem to form as they once did in the dried-up Pannonian Sea of long ago. The marshy surfaces of the KopaËki Rit National Park glimmer in the sun and conjure up the navy blue hues of the Pacific Ocean… A myriad of pleasant surprises are in store for visitors to the area that is bordered by the Drava, Danube and Sava rivers. Photographs of the Slavonian firework-like beauty look as if they have been taken straight from the paintings of old masters whose impressionistic brush strokes have been influenced by Mondrian’s austere and strict lines. Those images are very difficult to incorporate into the rather banal stereotypes of Slavonia as the breadbasket of Croatia, a food factory under the blue skies, the land of traditional kulen, bacon, tamburitza, goodies and carousers. Although Slavonia is all of that, it is also much more. It will not let down those to whom dying in beauty for the dying in beauty’s sake is not enough to form a complete impression of a region. After having thoroughly enjoyed Slavonia from the air, many worldly pleasures await after landing at one of the local airports. Ilok is located near the border with neighbouring Serbia, as if in a Croatian sleeve that is


surrounded by Serbia on three sides. Perched high up above the Danube, it is flanked by Mt. Fruπka Gora, the slopes of which seem to extend right onto the porches of the eight thousand inhabitants of Ilok. These rolling hills hide Ilok’s biggest treasures: its vineyards. Not just any old vineyards, but the source of high quality and widely acclaimed wines: Frankovka, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Graπevina, White Pinot, Rhine Riesling… The king of them all is Traminer, whose sumptuous bouquet titillates the palates of the English royal family. There is no street in Ilok without at least one wine cellar on it. Inside, in the blessed shade, good wine is served with tasty, dry cured meat delicacies. And then The Danube, the Danube, I have left my heart on your shores... The river leads up stream to mythical Vukovar. When the baroque city was placed under

military siege in 1991, somebody in Paris who was sensitive to the situation renamed the Stalingrad metro station by writing the name Vukovar over it. Since that time a lot of water has flown into the Danube from its tributary, the Vuka River. The city is trying hard to get things back to normal and to restore its prewar charm: VuËedol, a Neolithic archaeological site, is still there; the Eltz manor, the property of the owners of the Vukovar feudal estate, has been renovated; and spicy shepherds’ stew, Ëobanac, is again being served at picnics along the Danube River. Nowadays, the highlights on tourist itineraries are the big cross at the mouth of the Vuka into the Danube with the inscription Those who die an honest death de­ serve to live forever; the shell-damaged water tower; a memorial cemetery whose neatly laid white crosses are similar to those at Arlington

National Cemetery; and the notorious farm which is the burial site OvËara. And then we move on to neighbouring Vinkovci, one of the busiest railroad hubs in the former state. There are oak and ash forests in the Bosut Valley. For nearly half a century local ©okci have organized a festival every September under the name VinkovaËke jeseni (Autumn in Vinkovci) in an attempt to save old customs from oblivion, both theirs and those of others. They harness horses and laugh with joy as they parade their embroidered costumes. The real party begins once they have finished showing their old customs to the visitors. This party always lasts until the morning. ©okadija is a happy place to live. The –akovo Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, is the most beautiful church between Venice and Istanbul, according to Pope John XXIII, the

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authority on the matter. The construction of the cathedral started in 1866 under Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer and was completed 16 years later. The construction part was relatively easy and took only four years and seven million stone bricks which were imported from Hungary, Austria, Italy and France. The completion of the interior was a far more demanding job. Another 12 years were spent on decorating the interior, a project led by two German painters, a father and son team by the last name of Seitz. It was worth it. The cathedral features seven altars, 43 frescoes, 31 sculptures, 32 reliefs and an organ with 73 registers. After a visit to the star of sacral architecture, there is another must ∑ a visit to the –akovo stables where Lipizaner horses are bred. From –akovo, a 33 kilometre stretch of the Slavonika motorway leads to Osijek, the Slavonian metropolis. The city on the Drava River boasts a veritable jewel: Tvra, otherwise known as The Fortress, an old historical nucleus developed by the Austrian government between 1712 and 1722. Even at that time, the standards of living in Tvra were high: there were waterworks and a sewage system, as well as a grammar school, a printing press and a theatre. Today the fortress is a listed building which has been taken over by youngsters. Weekends are particularly busy as nightclubs and bars are packed with party goers in search of a good time. Different types of music genres resound through the city of Osijek every night. The best way to feel refreshed in summer mornings after a wild night is to go to Osijek’s Copacabana. This public beach, albeit not as famous as its namesake in Rio de Janeiro, is more than enough for a day of swimming, frolicking and sunbathing. Huge swarms of annoying mosquitoes fly into Osijek from KopaËki Rit. Coping with them is a tall order, which is why the citizens of Osijek often look towards the national park with disgust in their eyes. The presence of the mosquitoes proves that nothing is perfect. Nearly everything else in KopaËki Rit takes one’s breath away. This area, created by the flooding of the Drava and the Danube, conceals marvellous monuments to flora and fauna. In 1993, Ko­ paËki Rit was included on Ramsar’s list of 1700 wetlands of international importance. Boar roam the marshes, deer swim in the swamps and grunt in search of partners; turtles take to the banks where it is not easy to hide from the white tailed eagles, while their eggs that are buried in the sand often fall prey to foxes. The Siberian Blue Iris is a rare plant in this part of Europe, but in early June in KopaËki Rit their blue fields stretch for hectares. Yes, indeed, Slavonia is beautiful. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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BA©TINA HERITAGE ■

Piše/By Zlatan Jaganjac Fotografije/Photos Krunoslav Rac

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U Hrvat­skoj su ti­je­kom nje­zi­ne slav­ne i bo­ga­te po­vi­je­sti ro­e­ne mnoge oso­be ko­je su svo­jom ka­ri­zmom, us­traj­no­πÊu i æe­ljom za zna­njem us­pje­le traj­no upi­sa­ti svo­ja ime­na na stra­ni­ce sv­jet­ske po­vi­je­sti. Iz te ma­le zem­lje na svoj put u po­vi­je­st pot­kraj 19. sto­lje­Êa po­πao je i La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka, prvi hrvat­ski no­be­lo­vac.

Du­ring the co­ur­se of its glo­ri­o­us and rich hi­story, Cro­at­ia has gi­ ven the wor­ld a num­ber of per­so­na­li­ti­es who­se cha­ri­sma, per­se­ ve­ran­ce and thir­st for kno­wled­ge ha­ve se­cu­red them the pla­ces they rig­htly de­ser­ve in the hi­story of man­kind. La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka, the fir­st ever Cro­a­ti­an No­bel Pri­ze win­ner, was among tho­se who star­ted out on the­ir way in­to hi­story from this small co­un­try.

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a­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka ro­en je na kraj­njem isto­ku Hrvat­ske u, ta­da kul­tur­no i go­spo­ dar­ski bo­ga­tom, gra­du Vu­ko­va­ru. Oko da­na­πnje­ga gra­da Vu­ko­va­ra ni­ca­la su pra­po­vi­ je­sna na­se­lja, rim­ske gra­di­ne i sred­njov­je­kov­ne utvrde, πto i ni­je ne­ob ­ iË­no, s ob­zi­rom na to πto se ci­je­lo po­dru­Ëje na­la­zi na oba­la­ma ne­ko­li­ko ri­je­ka, Du­na­va, Vu­ke, Bo­su­ta, Sa­ve i Bi­Ëa. Sva­ka­ko tre­ba iz­dvo­ji­ti po­vi­je­sno-ar­he­o­lo­πki va­æan lo­ka­li­ tet Vu­Ëe­dol, ko­ji je od­mah po­sli­je ot­kri­Êa po­stao sim­bol eu­rop­sko­ga ba­kre­nog do­ba. Osim sto­ lje­Êi­ma du­ge Ëov­je­ko­ve pri­sut­no­sti, po­dru­Ëje je i svo­jev­rsno car­s­tvo ne­tak­nu­te pri­ro­de, po­seb­nih bilj­nih i æi­vo­tinj­skih vrsta, te je sto­ga po­ti­caj­no za ra­zvoj po­je­din­ca i dru­π­tva u cje­li­ni. Ia­ko Ëe­πkog po­dri­je­tla, Ru­æiË­kin otac bio je va­tre­ni hrvat­ski ro­do­ljub, πto je utje­ca­lo i na La­vo­sla­va, ko­ji je do kra­ja æi­vo­ta Hrvat­sku sma­trao svo­jom do­mo­vi­nom i teË­no go­vo­rio hrvat­ski je­zik. U Ëe­tvrtoj go­di­ni La­vo­sla­vu umi­re otac te se 1891. go­di­ne s maj­kom i mla­im bra­tom Stje­pa­nom se­li u Osi­jek, gdje zav­rπa­va osnov­nu πko­lu i kla­siË­nu gim­na­zi­ju. Svo­je obra­zo­va­nje La­vo­slav na­stav­lja u Nje­ maË­koj, gdje je od 1906. do 1910. stu­di­rao ke­ mi­ju na Vi­so­koj teh­niË­koj πko­li (ETH) u Kar­lsru­ heu. Tu je, pod nad­zo­rom pro­fe­so­ra Hermanna Sta­u­din­ge­ra, osni­va­Ëa ma­kro­mo­le­ku­lar­nih zna­no­sti, Ru­æiË­ka ste­kao ti­tu­lu dr. ing. Kao asi­stent pro­fe­so­ra Sta­u­din­ge­ra do 1916. g. Ru­æiË­ka je ra­dio na is­tra­æi­va­nju struk­tu­re ak­tiv­nih kom­po­ne­na­ta bilj­ke dal­ma­tin­skog bu­ha­Ëa, a oso­bi­to se za­ni­mao za ke­mi­ju ter­pe­na i is­tra­æi­va­ nja sin­te­ze mi­ri­sa. Ra­di æe­lje da ra­di sa­mo­stal­no na vla­sti­to iza­bra­nim po­dru­Ëji­ma, ra­zi­la­zi se s prof. Sta­u­din­ge­rom. U tom ra­zdob­lju Ru­æiË­ka je do­ka­zao da su mo­πu­sni mi­ri­si, mu­skom i ci­be­ton, ma­kro­ci­kliË­ki ke­to­ni, πto je omo­gu­Êi­lo sin­tet­sku pro­i­zvod­nju sku­po­cje­nih mo­πu­snih mi­ ri­sa i po­ve­za­lo ga s far­ma­ce­ut­skom in­du­st­ri­jom. Svoj æi­vot­ni i pro­fe­si­o­nal­ni put Ru­æiË­ka na­stav­lja æi­ve­Êi u Æe­ne­vi, a u ra­zdob­lju od 1927. do 1929. ra­di kao pro­fe­sor or­gan­ske ke­mi­je u Utrec­htu. Godine 1929. odla­zi u ©vi­car­sku, u Zürich, πto ujed­no ozna­Ëa­va po­Ëe­tak na­ju­s­pje­πni­jeg ra­zvo­ja u nje­go­voj ka­ri­je­ri. U tom ra­zdob­lju odre­dio je struk­tu­re mno­gih se­s­kvi i di-ter­pe­na. Ru­æiË­ka je iza­zvao ve­li­ku po­zor­no­st kad je 1934. g. obja­vio dje­lo­miË­nu sin­te­zu mu­πko­ga spol­nog hor­mo­na an­dro­ste­ro­na, a veÊ slje­de­Êe go­di­ne i te­sto­ste­ro­na. Ra­do­vi na sek­su­al­nim hor­mo­ni­ma i ste­ro­i­di­ma uËvrsti­li su Ru­æiË­kin znan­s­tve­ni ugled, te je 1939. g. do­bio No­be­lo­vu na­gra­du za ke­mi­ju za rad na po­li­me­ti­le­ni­ma i vi­πim ter­pe­ni­ma. Zbog po­Ëet­ka Dru­go­ga sv­jet­skog ra­ta na­gra­ da mu je pre­da­na u Vi­so­koj teh­niË­koj πko­li u Kar­lsru­heu, a no­be­lov­sko pre­da­va­nje pod na­slo­vom Od dal­ma­tin­skog bu­ha­Ëa do sek­su­ al­nih hor­mo­na odræao je u Za­gre­bu 16. oæuj­ka


I like all the small details Like the sushi in the LA lounge Like collecting miles on one card Like my bags magically arriving first I’ve earned it.

Simon Woodroffe OBE, founder of YO! Company and Star Alliance Gold Status

staralliance.com

Information correct as at 09/2010


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1940. is­pred 1000 uzva­ni­ka. Tom pri­go­dom ime­no­van je po­Ëa­snim Ëla­nom Ju­go­sla­ven­ske aka­de­mi­je zna­no­sti i umjet­no­sti (da­nas HA­ZU) i po­Ëa­snim dok­to­rom Za­gre­baË­kog sve­uË ­ i­li­πta. Iste go­di­ne po­stao je po­Ëa­snim gra­a­ni­nom Vu­ko­va­ra i ta­da se na sli­ci pot­pi­sao kao Vu­ ko­va­rac La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka, 1940. U mi­ro­vi­nu odla­zi 1957., u 70. go­di­ni æi­vo­ta. Tom je pri­go­dom, uz pot­po­ru πvi­car­ske ke­mij­ ske in­du­s­tri­je, usta­nov­lje­na Ru­æiË­ki­na na­gra­da za istak­nu­te mla­de πvi­car­ske ke­mi­Ëa­re. Tri su glav­na po­dru­Ëja znan­st­ve­nog ra­da La­ vo­sla­va Ru­æiË­ke: ve­li­ki prste­ni, vi­πi ter­pe­ni i spol­ni hor­mon. Sa su­rad­ni­ci­ma obja­vio je Ëak 583 znan­s­tve­na ra­da, i to ve­Êi­nom u ra­zdob­ lju 1930.∑1950. go­di­ne. No­si­telj­ je broj­nih pri­zna­nja, na­gra­de Mar­cel Be­no­it - naj­ve­Êega znan­s­tve­nog pri­zna­nja ©vi­car­ske, la­u­re­at osam po­Ëa­snih dok­to­ra­ta, Ëlan 18 znan­s­tve­nih aka­ de­mi­ja, uk­lju­Ëiv­πi i Pa­pin­sku aka­de­mi­ju, do­di­je­ lje­no mu je 13 ra­zli­Ëi­tih me­da­lja i na­gra­da. Ia­ko je pri­mio πvi­car­sko dræav­ljan­s­tvo, Hrvat­sku je sma­trao svo­jom do­mo­vi­nom, te po­mo­gao mno­gim hrvat­skim ke­mi­Ëa­ri­ma. Ne­ki nje­go­vi su­rad­ni­ci po­sti­gli su vi­so­ke re­zul­ta­te, pri­mje­ri­ ce Vla­di­mir Pre­log, ta­ko­er la­u­re­at No­be­lo­ve na­gra­de za ke­mi­ju. La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka ro­en je 13. ruj­na 1887. u Vu­ko­va­ru, a umro je 26. ruj­ na 1976. u Mam­mer­nu na Bo­den­skom je­ze­ru, u 89. go­di­ni. Ru­æiË­ki­na rod­na ku­Êa zbog nje­go­ve je va­æno­sti i ve­li­Ëi­ne te spo­me­niË­ke vri­jed­no­sti po­sta­la Me­ mo­ri­jal­ni cen­tar i mje­sto ra­z­mje­ne kul­tur­no­ga i znan­s­tve­nog ra­da u Vu­ko­va­ru. Na æa­lo­st, Hrvat­ska je na­kon pro­gla­πe­nja ne­ov­ i­sno­sti u po­Ëet­ku de­ve­de­se­tih go­di­na pro­πlog sto­lje­Êa bi­la na­pad­nu­ta i mo­ra­la je ra­to­va­ti za slo­bo­du. Ti­je­kom ra­ta ma­le­na i mla­da dræa­va pre­trpje­la je ve­li­ke gu­bit­ke, a Vu­ko­var je na­kon pot­pu­nog ra­za­ra­nja i vi­πe­go­di­πnje oku­pa­ci­je pun ru­πe­vi­na. Me­u ru­πe­vi­na­ma na­πla se i Ru­æiË­ki­na ku­Êa, toË­ni­je, sa­mo dio jed­no­ga nje­zi­nog zi­da. Ka­ko bi se sa­Ëu­vao ba­rem dio bo­ga­te kul­tur­ne i znan­s­tve­ne hrvat­ske ba­πti­ne, sku­pi­na za­ gre­baË­kih po­du­zet­ni­ka osno­va­la je Fun­da­ci­ju Ru­æiË­ki­na ku­Êa i oba­vi­la zah­tje­van po­sao s ci­ljem ob­no­ve, do­grad­nje i opre­ma­nja rod­ ne ku­Êe prvo­ga hrvat­skog no­be­lov­ca, jed­nu od naj­ljep­πih ka­sno­hi­sto­ri­ci­stiË­kih pri­zem­nih gra­e­vi­na u Vu­ko­va­ru. Fi­nan­cij­ska vri­jed­no­st pro­jek­ta pro­ci­je­nje­na je na 4,000.000 ku­na, a sred­s­tva su pri­bav­lje­na od de­ve­de­se­tak do­na­ to­ra i uz po­kro­vi­telj­s­tvo bivšega pred­sjed­ni­ka Re­pu­bli­ke Stje­pa­na Me­si­Êa. Is­kre­no vje­ru­je­mo da Êe­te, po­sje­ti­te li Vu­ko­ var, obi­Êi i Ru­æiË­ki­nu ku­Êu, ko­ja se na­la­zi u ne­po­sred­noj bli­zi­ni de­va­sti­ra­no­ga, ali u ob­no­vi, Dvor­ca El­tz, u ko­je­mu oso­bi­to doj­mlji­vo dje­lu­je Grad­ski mu­zej Vu­ko­va­ra sa stal­nom izlo­æbom ek­spo­na­ta s ar­he­o­lo­πkog lo­ka­li­te­ta Vu­Ëe­dol i

te­mat­skim izlo­æba­ma, ob­nov­lje­ne ka­pe­le sv. Ro­ka i mo­der­nog ho­te­la Lav na oba­li im­po­ zan­tnog Du­na­va. Unu­tar ku­Êe, na 1000 m2, na­la­zi se te­mat­ski ure­e­na me­mo­ri­jal­na so­ba La­vo­sla­va Ru­æiË­ke, pro­stor Grad­skog mu­ ze­ja Vu­ko­var, Znan­s­tve­no-is­tra­æi­vaË­ki cen­tar Hrvat­ske aka­de­mi­je zna­no­sti i umjet­no­sti, ra­Ëu­nal­na ra­di­o­ni­ca te po­li­va­len­tna dvo­ra­na za ka­za­li­πne pred­sta­ve, fil­mske pro­jek­ci­je, kon­ cer­te i ra­zli­Ëi­te sku­po­ve. Ru­æiË­ki­nu ku­Êu kra­si πar­man­tno i fun­kci­o­nal­no dvo­ri­πte u ko­je­mu do­mi­ni­ra bi­sta La­vo­sla­va Ru­æiË­ke i u ko­je­mu se aku­mu­li­ra stva­ra­laË­ka ener­gi­ja. Ob­no­vom i do­grad­njom objek­ta Vu­ko­var je do­bio jed­nu od naj­ljep­πih gra­e­vi­na u gradu i mje­sto ko­ je Êe una­pri­je­di­ti kva­li­te­tu æiv­lje­nja. Do­dat­ne in­for­ma­ci­je sa­znat Êe­te i na in­ter­net­skoj stra­ ni­ci www.fun­da­ci­ja­ru­zic­ki­na­ku­ca.hr. n

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avoslav Ru­æiË­ka was born in the ea­ stern-mo­st part of Cro­a­tia, in the city of Vu­ko­var, which was a re­gi­o­nal bu­ si­ne­ss and cul­tu­ral cen­tre at the ti­me. Pre­h i­s to­r ic set­t le­m en­t s, Ro­m an for­t s and me­di­e­val for­tre­sses on­ce sur­ro­un­ded what is to­day known as Vu­ko­var, which is not sur­pri­ sing gi­ven the re­gi­on’s fa­vo­u­ra­ble po­si­ti­on on the ban­ks of se­ve­ral ri­vers: the Da­nu­be, the Vu­ka, the Bo­sut, the Sa­va and the Bi. The Vu­Ëe­dol si­te is par­ti­cu­lar­ly wor­th men­ti­o­ning for its hi­sto­ri­cal and ar­cha­e­o­lo­gi­cal sig­ni­fi­can­ ce. As so­on as it was di­sco­ve­red, the si­te was con­si­de­red to epi­to­mi­se the Eu­ro­pe­an Cop­per Age. In ad­di­ti­on to the area be­ing a pla­ce of long-term hu­man set­tle­ment, it is al­so a tre­a­ su­re tro­ve of un­spo­i­led na­tu­re and very spe­ci­al plant and ani­mal spe­ci­es, all of which ha­ve ma­de it con­du­ci­ve to the de­ve­lop­ment of both in­di­vi­du­als and so­ci­ety as a who­le. Al­tho­ugh of Czech ori­gin, Ru­æiË­ka’s fat­her was a fer­vent Cro­a­ti­an pa­tri­ot. This left a strong im­pre­ssi­on on the yo­ung La­vo­slav who wo­uld con­ti­nue to con­si­der Cro­a­tia his ho­me­land for the re­st of his li­fe, and who spo­ke Cro­a­ti­an flu­ en­tly. Af­ter the ear­ly de­ath of his fat­her, when La­vo­slav was only fo­ur, he mo­ved to Osi­jek to­get­her with his mot­her and yo­un­ger brot­her Stje­pan, whe­re he at­ten­ded the pri­mary and the cla­ssi­cal gram­mar sc­ho­ols. La­vo­slav con­ti­nu­ed his edu­ca­ti­on in Ger­many whe­re he stu­di­ed che­mi­s­try at the Tec­hni­sc­he Hoc­hsc­hu­le (ETH) in Kar­lsru­he bet­we­en 1906 and 1910, and gra­du­a­ted as an en­gi­ne­er un­der the men­tor­ship of Pro­fe­ssor Hermann Sta­u­din­ ger, the fo­un­der of ma­cro­mo­le­cu­lar stu­di­es. As Pro­fe­ssor Sta­ud ­ in­ger’s assi­stant, up to 1916, Ru­æiË­ka re­se­ar­ched the ac­ti­ve con­sti­tu­en­ts of the Dal­ma­ti­an pyret­hrum plant, which pro­vi­ded the ba­sis for an in­sec­ti­ci­de. He was par­ti­cu­lar­ ly in­te­re­sted in the che­mi­s­try of ter­pens and CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ru­æiË­ki­na rod­na ku­Êa zbog nje­go­ve je va­æno­sti i ve­li­Ëi­ne te spo­me­niË­ke vri­jed­no­sti po­sta­la Me­mo­ri­jal­ni cen­tar i mje­sto ra­z­mje­ne kul­tur­no­ga i znan­s­tve­nog ra­da u Vu­ko­va­ru. The ho­u­se whe­re Ru­æiË­ka was born is a cul­tu­ral mo­nu­ment, but be­ca­u­se of Ru­æiË­ka’s im­por­tan­ce and gre­at­ne­ss as a sci­ en­ti­st it has be­en tur­ned in­to a Me­mo­ri­al Cen­tre and a pla­ce for sci­en­ti­fic ex­chan­ge in Vu­ko­var. star­ted re­se­ar­ching fra­gran­ces. He par­ted ways with Pro­fe­ssor Sta­ud ­ in­ger be­ca­us­ e he wan­ted to work in­de­pen­den­tly on pro­blems of his own cho­o­sing. Aro­und this ti­me, Ru­æiË­ka pro­ved that the mu­sk per­fu­mes, ci­ve­to­ne and mu­sco­ne, are ma­croc­yclic ke­to­nes, which ena­bled the sy­nthe­tic pro­duc­ti­on of pre­ci­o­us mu­sk fra­gran­ces. This put the sci­en­ti­st in con­ tact with the phar­ma­ce­u­ti­cal in­du­s­try. Ru­æiË­ka con­ti­nu­ed his li­fe and ca­re­er in Ge­ne­va, tho­ugh bet­we­en 1927 and 1929, he ta­ug­ht or­ga­nic che­mi­st­ry at the Uni­ver­sity of Utrec­ht. In 1929, La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka re­tur­ned to Swit­ zer­land, and ba­sed him­self in Zürich. This was the be­gin­ning of the mo­st fru­it­ful pe­ri­od of his ca­re­er. Du­ring this pe­ri­od, he suc­ce­e­ded in esta­bli­shing the struc­tu­res of a num­ber of se­ s­qvi­ter­pe­nes and di­ter­pe­nes.

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In 1934, Ru­æiË­ka ca­us­ ed a ma­jor stir when he pu­bli­shed his pa­per on the par­ti­al sy­nthe­sis of the ma­le sex hor­mo­ne an­dro­ste­ro­ne, fol­lo­wed by one on te­sto­ste­ro­ne the fol­lo­wing ye­ar. His work on sex hor­mo­nes and ste­ro­ids con­fir­med Ru­æiË­ka’s sci­en­ti­fic re­pu­ta­ti­on and in 1939 he won the No­bel Pri­ze for Che­mi­s­try for his work on po­li­met­hylens and hig­her ter­pens. As Wor­ld War II had bro­ken out, he re­ce­iv­ ed the award at the Tec­hni­cal High Sc­ho­ol in Kar­lsru­he. He de­li­ve­red his No­bel lec­tu­re, en­ti­tled From Dal­ma­ti­an In­sect Pow­der to Sex Hor­mo­nes, on 16 Mar­ch 1940 in Za­greb, to an over­crow­ded ro­om of 1,000 invi­ted gu­e­sts. On this oc­ca­si­on, he be­ca­me an ho­no­rary mem­ber of the Yu­go­ slav Aca­demy of Sci­en­ces and Ar­ts (to­day’s HA­ZU) and was awar­ded an ho­no­rary doc­to­ra­te by Za­greb Uni­ver­sity. The sa­me ye­ar, he was al­so ma­de an ho­no­rary ci­ti­zen of Vu­ko­var. He sig­ned a pho­to­graph ta­ken on the oc­ca­si­on La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka, a na­ti­ve of Vu­ko­var, 1940. He re­ti­red in 1957, at the age of 70. To mark the oc­ca­si­on, the Ru­æiË­ka Award was esta­bli­shed with the sup­port of the Swi­ss che­mi­cal in­du­s­try for yo­ung che­mi­sts wor­king in Swit­zer­land. La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka was invol­ved in three ma­in are­as of sci­en­ti­fic re­se­ar­ch: gre­at rin­gs, hig­her ter­pens and sex hor­mo­nes. To­get­her with his asso­ci­at­es, he pu­bli­shed 583 sci­en­ti­fic pa­pers, mo­st of them du­ring the pe­ri­od 1930 to 1950. He was the re­ci­pi­ent of nu­me­ro­us awar­ds in­ clu­ding the Mar­cel Be­no­it Award, the hig­he­st Swi­ss sci­en­ti­fic award. He held eig­ht ho­no­rary doc­to­ra­tes, was an ho­no­rary mem­ber of 18 aca­de­mi­es of sci­en­ce, in­clu­ding the Va­ti­can Aca­demy, and was awar­ded 13 dif­fe­rent me­ dals and pri­zes. Al­tho­ugh he be­ca­me a Swi­ss ci­ti­zen, he always con­si­de­red Cro­a­tia his ho­me­land, and he always hel­ped Cro­a­ti­an che­mi­sts. So­me of his asso­ci­a­tes went on to ac­hi­e­ve no­ta­ble success, for exam­ple Vla­di­mir Pre­log, who was

al­so a No­bel Pri­ze win­ner for che­mi­s­try. La­vo­ slav Ru­æiË­ka was born on 13 Sep­tem­ber 1887 in Vu­ko­var, and di­ed on 26 Sep­tem­ber 1976 in Mam­mern on La­ke Bo­den at the age of 89. The ho­us­ e whe­re Ru­æiË­ka was born is a cul­ tu­ral mo­nu­ment, but be­ca­u­se of Ru­æiË­ka’s im­por­tan­ce and gre­at­ne­ss as a sci­en­ti­st it has be­en tur­ned in­to a Me­mo­ri­al Cen­tre and a pla­ce for sci­en­ti­fic ex­chan­ge in Vu­ko­var. At the be­gin­ning of the 1990s, Cro­a­tia pro­cla­i­med its in­de­pen­den­ce but un­for­tu­na­tely so­on ca­me un­der at­tack, ha­ving to fig­ht for its fre­ed ­ om. Du­ring the war, this yo­ung and be­au ­ ­ti­ful lit­tle sta­te suf­fe­red gre­at lo­sses and af­ter the long ye­ars of de­s­truc­ti­on and oc­cu­pa­ti­on, Vu­ko­var emer­ged as a town in ru­ins. One of the bu­il­ din­gs that had be­en par­tly de­s­tro­yed, to be mo­re pre­ci­se, part of one of the wal­ls had be­en de­s­tro­yed, was Ru­æiË­ka’s ho­u­se. A gro­up of en­tre­pre­ne­urs from Za­greb fo­un­ded the Ru­æiË­ka Ho­u­se Fo­un­da­ti­on with a vi­ew to pre­ser­ving a pi­e­ce of Cro­a­tia’s rich cul­tu­ral and sci­en­ti­fic he­ri­ta­ge. They un­der­to­ok a ma­jor pro­ject to re­no­va­te, re­con­s­truct and re­fur­ni­sh the ho­u­se whe­re the fir­st Cro­a­ti­an No­bel Pri­ze la­u­re­a­te was born, which is one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful la­te hi­sto­ri­ci­st sin­gle-sto­rey ho­u­ses in Vu­ko­var. The co­st of the pro­ject was esti­ma­ted at 4 mil­li­on ku­na and the fun­ds we­re ra­i­sed by clo­se on 90 do­nors un­der the au­spi­ces of the former Pre­si­dent of the Republic of Croatia Stje­pan Me­siÊ. When in Vu­ko­var, we sin­ce­rely ho­pe you vi­sit Ru­æiË­ka’s ho­u­se. You will find it very clo­se to the de­va­sta­ted Burg El­tz, a 12th cen­tury ca­s­tle cur­ren­tly un­der­go­ing re­con­s­truc­ti­on, and which ho­u­ses the very im­pre­ssi­ve Vu­ko­var City Mu­se­ um and an ex­hi­bi­ti­on fe­a­tu­ring ar­te­fac­ts from the Vu­Ëe­dol ar­cha­e­o­lo­gi­cal si­te, as well as other the­ ma­tic ex­hi­bi­ti­ons. The ho­u­se is al­so in the vi­ci­nity of the re­no­va­ted St. Roc­co’s Cha­pel and the Lav Ho­tel on the ban­ks of the sta­tely Da­nu­be. The 1,000-squ­ar­e-me­tre sur­fa­ce of Ru­æiË­ka’s ho­u­se ac­com­mo­da­tes the La­vo­slav Ru­æiË­ka Me­mo­ri­al Ro­om, and part of the area is re­ser­ved for the City of Vu­ko­var Mu­se­um and its col­lec­ti­ on. A Cro­a­ti­an Aca­demy of Sci­en­ces and Ar­ts sci­en­ti­fic re­se­ar­ch cen­tre is also he­re, to­get­her with a com­pu­ter wor­k-shop, a polyva­lent hall for the­a­tre per­for­man­ces, film projecti­ons, con­ cer­ts and va­ri­o­us me­e­tin­gs. A bu­st of Ru­æiË­ka do­mi­na­tes the char­ming and functi­on ­ al gro­un­ds of the ho­u­se, whe­re so much cre­a­ti­ve ener­gy has be­en ac­cu­mu­la­ted. Af­ter the re­no­va­ti­on and re­con­s­truc­ti­on of Ru­æiË­ka’s ho­u­se, Vu­ko­var has re­ga­i­ned one of its mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful bu­il­din­gs, which has be­en tur­ned in­to a pla­ce which will bring ad­ded va­lue to the qu­a­lity of li­fe of its ci­ ti­zens. For ad­di­ti­o­nal informa­ti­on ple­a­se go to www.fun­da­ci­ja­ru­zic­ki­na­ku­ca.hr. n


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■ OTOCI ISLANDS

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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O Novigradu se ne moæe govoriti a da se ne govori o Istri. Ta Ëarobna, osobita, pitoma hrvatska zemlja, koju su Rimljani nazivali terra magica, uzima ponajbolje od mora πto je okruæuje i daje ponajbolje od plodna tla od kojega je sazdana. I eto, tu, na zapadnom rubu istarskog kopna, leæi Novigrad, nevelik 60

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gradiÊ s otprilike pet tisuÊa stanovnika, nedavno proglaπen najrazvijenijim u Hrvatskoj, prema strogim i suhim parametrima zaposlenosti, dohotka, prihoda. Njegove plaæe ponose se jednim od najËiπÊih mora u ovom dijelu Jadrana. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Describing Novigrad is almost unimaginable without mentioning Istria. The magical and gentle Croatian region, Terra Magica, as the Romans called it, takes the best from the surrounding sea and yields the best from its fertile soil. At the western part of the Istrian mainland is Novigrad, 62

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recently declared the most developed town in Croatia, according to strict and tedious parameters of employment, income and revenues. Novigrad’s beaches boast the cleanest sea in this part of the Adriatic. CROATIA AIRLINES

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S

tari, povijesni gradovi imaju svoja osobita, jedinstvena obiljeæja, slojevite tragove vremena oblikovane stoljeÊima. Svi novi, suvremeni gradovi nekako su pak svojom mladoπÊu sliËni jedan drugome. A kad Ëujete ime Novigrad, Cittanova, zamiπljate vjerojatno ovo drugo, mjesto πirokih ulica, s nizovima sliËnih kuÊa. Ali da ime nije uvijek znak, otkrit Êete posjetom tomu ljupkom gradu koji se prvi put u pisanim dokumentima spominje veoma davno, Ëak 599. godine. Ali zacijelo je rijeË o mnogo starijem naselju, jer od 520. godine pa sve do 1831. ovdje je veÊ sjediπte istoimene biskupije. Na πiremu gradskom podruËju otprije se spominju antiËka Aemonia, kolonija grËkih moreplovaca, Neapolis i, napokon, utvreni rimski grad Civitas Novum. Stara se jezgra Novigrada sa i danas oËuvanom srednjovjekovnom urbanom mreæom uskih kamenih ulica i malih, ljupkih trgova, s obrambenim zidinama i tornjevima, prvobitno razvila na otoËiÊu koji je u 18. st. dalekovidno spojen s kopnom omoguÊivπi mu razvoj i πirenje. Na sjeverozapadnoj je obali istarskog poluotoka, na zapad najisturenijemu hrvatskom kopnu. O Novigradu se ne moæe govoriti a da se ne govori o Istri. Ta Ëarobna, osobita, pitoma hrvatska zemlja, koju su Rimljani nazivali terra magica, uzima ponajbolje od mora πto je okruæuje i daje ponajbolje od plodna tla od kojega je sazdana. Zastava je istarska zato plava od modrine mora i neba, a zelena od vinograda i polja unutraπnjosti. Koza na njezinu grbu, simbol Istre od starorimskih vremena, lafontenovski govori o spretnosti i slobodi, a posve hrvatski o izdræljivoj, skromnoj i ponosnoj hraniteljici. Istra je zemlja obalnih gradova sa zvonicima po kojima se orijentiraju brodovi, zemlja fresaka po predloπcima Biblije siromaπnih, zemlja kaπtela i stancija, bizantskih bazilika i ranokrπÊanskih crkvica, raskoπnih palaËa i pastirskih kaæuna

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od suhozida. Zemlja je to i ribara i teæaka i plemiÊa, maslinara i brodograditelja, mitskih i pravih divova, zemlja najukusnijih tartufa, najmekπih divljih πparoga, slavnoga maslinovog ulja i sjajnih vina. Teran, rubinsko autohtono vino, spominje se u pisanim dokumentima otprije viπe od 600 godina, u kojima je zabiljeæeno da su ga darivali mletaËkomu i austrijskom ambasadoru. Teran je i glavni sastojak tople i opuπtajuÊe istarske supe. U refoπku, gustome i tamnom nektaru, ovdje je uæivao i Casanova, a moguÊe je da je u njemu leæala i tajna njegovih ljubavnih uspjeha. Mnogo prije, rimski pisac Plinije Stariji hvali tako vinum Pucinum, za koje tvrdi da je istarsko, napominjuÊi kako carica Livija svoju krepku starost treba temeljiti upravo na tom napitku. Kasiodor, tajnik ostrogotskog kralja Teodorika, opisuje Istru hvaleÊi njezino vino, ulje i æito. A o istarskim gradovima zapisao je: Mnoge palaËe veÊ izdaleka iskazuju ljepotu i nalik su na biserje na glavi lijepe æene... Ne znamo u kojemu je vinu uæivao Bonaparte, moæda u zlatnoj i mirisnoj malvaziji, zreloj i svjeæoj istodobno, ali posve je moguÊe da su ga pulska Zlatna vrata nadahnula da podigne veliËanstveni Slavoluk pobjede na kojemu je uklesano i ime Istre, jedne od mnogih Napoleonovih pobjeda. Svojevrstan hommage Istri odaje i Jules Verne u svojima NeobiËnim putovanjima, smjeπtajuÊi radnju Mathiasa Sandorfa u srce Istre, u Ëarobnu scenografiju srednjovjekovnoga pazinskog kaπtela i prijeteÊega, joπ i danas do kraja neistraæenog ponora, opasne, ali za glavni lik i spasonosne podzemne bujice. Istra je dvojnost komplementarnih svjetova, vreve, sunca i joda njezine obale i mirnoÊe πuma, magli i oblaka iz kojih izrastaju Ëudesni tihi gradovi u unutraπnjosti poluotoka. Istra je mjesto susreta slavenskoga, germanskoga i romanskog duha. Smjenjivali su se ovdje, proæimali je, obogaÊivali i pljaËkali, gradili i ruπili, neumorno ratovali, uz Hrvate i Liburni,

Histri, Grci, Kelti, Rimljani, Ostrogoti, Bizantinci, Langobardi, Franci, MleËani, Austrijanci, Talijani, Slovenci. Mjesto je to latinske konkiste i glagoljaπke rekonkiste, toËka susreta morskih i kopnenih putova joπ otkad je ovuda vodio Jantarski put kojim su Egejci i Heleni prolazili do Baltika, mjesto gdje vlaæni mediteranski jezik najdublje uklizuje u meki europski trbuh, a ipak je dovoljno izolirano visokim i πumovitim planinama da ostane osobito i svoje. Istarski jezik, narjeËje, obiËaji i noπnje, istarska jela, istarska tonska ljestvica pa glazbala, roæenice ili sopele i miπnice, sve πto je hrvatski puk stvorio i saËuvao u tisuÊljetnoj borbi za opstanak na ovome obeÊanom tlu. I eto, tu, na zapadnom rubu istarskog kopna, leæi Novigrad, nevelik gradiÊ s otprilike pet tisuÊa stanovnika, nedavno proglaπen najrazvijenijim u Hrvatskoj, prema strogim i suhim parametrima zaposlenosti, dohotka, prihoda. Nekad je bio izrazito ribarsko mjesto, danas mu je najvaæniji turizam, koji ovdje ima jednu od najduljih tradicija u Hrvatskoj. SvjedoËi to podatak da je Pietro Kandler, trπÊanski arheolog i povjesniËar, poËasni carski konzervator za Primorje, objavio prvi turistiËki vodiË Novigrada joπ davne 1845. godine. VeÊ 1894. Novigrad ima ureeno kupaliπte, 1896. godine dva hotela. Turizmu, kao uostalom u cijeloj Istri, pogoduje nepobjedivo trojstvo: prirodne ljepote, bogata kulturna baπtina i gostoljubivost. Smjeπten je na niskoj i pristupaËnoj obali, s kamenitim ili πljunËanim plaæama velikim dijelom u sjeni starih borova, s parkom uz obalu, zaleem zelenim od njiva i vinograda, s rivijerom koja se prostire od uπÊa rijeke Mirne do Dajle, jednoga od pet naselja koja danas tvore Novigrad. Treba reÊi i da se njegove plaæe ponose jednim od najËiπÊih mora u ovom dijelu Jadrana. Grad se postupno razvija u sklopu kasnoantiËkog kastruma, civilnog naselja s obrambenim elementima. Spominjan veÊ u spisima iz


razdoblja rimske vladavine, u 5. st. postaje politiËko, vjersko i gospodarsko srediπte ∑ sjediπte biskupije koja se protezala od Dragonje do Mirne. Mnoge su se uprave Novigrada smjenjivale tijekom stoljeÊa. Bizantska, franaËka, njemaËka, mletaËka, francuska, austrijska, talijanska. Svaka od njih ostavila je tragove svoje kulture u kamenom hardwareu grada, ali i poneki kôd u kulturi, tradiciji i obiËajima njegovih stanovnika. Neke su viπe uzimale nego davale, a neke se i danas pamte po dobrome, poput one karolinπke, za koje je grad postao jedno od najvaænijih srediπta morske provincije franaËkoga carstva. Procvat poËinje odabirom Novigrada za sjediπte vojvode Ivana MaËem u jednoj i kriæem u drugoj ruci. Stapanje Crkve i dræave bijaπe politika carstva Karla Velikog pa je logiËno stoga da su dva kljuËna protagonista svih dogaanja na razmei 8. i 9. st. u ovome gradu, jedan crkveni prelat, biskup Mauricije, i jedan predstavnik politiËke elite, dux Iohannes, svaki na svome zadatku, biskup da provodi planove papinske dræave, a vojvoda pak planove velikoga carstva. To je vrijeme najintenzivnijega druπtvenoga i gospodarskog razvoja grada, koji se posve opipljivo odraæavao kao zlatno doba lokalne arhitekture. No pljaËkaπki i osvajaËki upadi, od langobardskih do turskih, zatim ratovi i apokaliptiËne bolesti od kojih u prvom redu kuga i malarija, uvijek su iznova, naizmjeniËno, ruπili urbanu i populacijsku strukturu koja se ipak uporno obnavljala. SvjedoËe o tome zasebni arhitektonski sklopovi s grbovima gradskih naËelnika razliËitih razdoblja. Danaπnji je njegov izgled, njegova povijesna jezgra, ma kako snaæan otpor mletaËkoj dominaciji bio, ipak otisak mletaËke uprave, unatoË siromaπenju i smanjenju znaËenja Novigrada, koji se dogaao usporedno. Prozvali su stoga Novigrad gradom duge proπlosti i sjajnoga, ali kratkog vrhunca. Impresivni, izdaleka uoËljivi fragmenti gradskih zidina iz 13. stoljeÊa, koje su nekad potpuno opasavale grad, graene su na arhaiËan naËin, priklesanim kamenom s markantnim merlaturama, ojaËane okruglim renesansnim tornjevima, a govore o opasnosti od Ëestih provala s mora, ali i s kopna. Uz nekadaπnja glavna gradska vrata nalazi se Ëetvrtasti toranj iz prijaπnjeg razdoblja. NeobiËna gradska loæa, jedina u Istri koja se nalazi neposredno uz more, najvjerojatnije je podignuta u 16. st. i nekoliko je puta obnavljana. S njezine zapadne strane, polukruæni prolaz Porta marina vodi k moru. Na zaglavnom kamenu luËne konstrukcije prolaza uklesana je 1649. godina, no ona je na danaπnju poziciju prenesena u 19. st. sa sjeverozapadne strane grada.

Duæ zidina i uokolo grada, uz obalu i plaæu, vodi lijepa πetnica. Iza zidina gusti je splet lijepih malih ulica s trgovinama, slastiËarnicama, nadaleko poznatim konobama i restoranima, od kojih su neki proglaπeni najboljima na Sredozemlju. Nisu uzalud stari Rimljani Istru nazivali carskom smoËnicom. Istarski prπut, ovËji i kozji sir, fritaje sa πparogama, lazanje s tartufima, πkoljke, kamenice, dondole, kapeπante, pa carpaccio od tek ulovljene ribe, orade, brancini, zubaci, grdobine, grancingule, jastozi i πkampi, pa njoki, pljukanci, fuæi, ægvaceti i πurlice, guste i krepke maneπtre, zatim ombolo, hobotnice i sipe, slatki krafi i cukeranËiÊi...sve se to uroti protiv nekih vaπih odluka i samodiscipline, i povrh svega traæi da ih se zalije dobrim domaÊim vinom, merlotom, hrvaticom, pinotom, muπkatom... Grad s dvije uljare poznat je po veoma cijenjenome maslinovom ulju i posve je zasluæeno jedna od etapa u itineraru nove turistiËke ponude ∑ Ceste maslinova ulja, po ugledu na jednako primamljive vinske ceste. Ona se proteæe æivopisnim predjelima sjeverozapadne Istre od Buja i Oprtlja u unutraπnjosti, preko Novigrada i PoreËa uz more, do Vodnjana i Faæane na jugu. Osamdesetak maslinara i uljara nudi degustaciju domaÊih ulja, od ruËno branih maslina i napravljenih od starih sorti, bjelice, buæe, leccino i frantoi. To se ljekovito mediteransko tekuÊe zlato posluæuje u malim Ëaπicama ili na tanjuriÊima, ponegdje lagano zagrijano kako bi bolje otpuπtalo aromu. Nenavikla Êe nepca tako nauËiti prepoznavanje za svaku sortu specifiËnih bukéa - po zelenim jabukama, artiËokama, radiËu, pokoπenoj travi, voÊu i bezbrojnim drugim okusnim asocijacijama. Ali Novigrad ne tvore samo mirisi i okusi, njegova kulturna baπtina jednako Êe uspjeπno zadovoljiti mnogu vaπu suptilniju potrebu. U πetnji kamenitim gradom, prolazeÊi pokraj zanimljivih gotiËkih i baroknih zgrada, ispod neizbjeænih, tako tipiËnih mediteranskih zastava od rublja prostrtoga visoko gore, s jednoga na drugi kraj ulice, svakako Êete doÊi do troimene æupne crkve sv. Marije, sv. Maksimilijana i sv. Pelagija. Iako barokizirana u 18. stoljeÊu, saËuvala je romaniËke, pa i fragmente starokrπÊanske bazilike. Ispod svetiπta, iza glavnog oltara, nalazi se poluukopana ranoromaniËka srednjovjekovna kripta, jedina takva u Istri, rijetka i u Hrvatskoj, datirana najnovijim istraæivanjima na razmee 8. i 9. stoljeÊa. U srediπnjem dijelu trobrodne kripte, s jakim kriænim svodovima, nalazi se konfesija s natpisom biskupa Adama iz 1146. godine. Joπ potkraj 19. st. u kripti su naeni ulomci liturgijskog namjeπtaja iz ranog srednjovjekovlja, danas izloæeni u novigradskom Lapidariju. Na CROATIA AIRLINES

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opremanju tada raskoπne katedrale morale su raditi najbolje klesarske radionice s kraja 8. i s poËetka 9. st. Sigurno je da je ciborij biskupa Mauricija djelo furlanske klesarske radionice, koja je liturgijskim namjeπtajem opremala vaæna crkvena srediπta u 8. st. Dio liturgijskog namjeπtaja doista je vrhunske umjetniËke vrijednosti, pravilno i duboko klesan, poput rimske skulpture. U kripti je bio sarkofag s relikvijama sv. Pelagija, zaπtitnika grada, krπÊanskoga muËenika dekapitiranoga u 3. st., nakon niza inventivnih naËina muËenja koji mu, zaËudo, nisu nimalo naπkodili. SamostojeÊi zvonik sagraen je po uzoru na zvonik sv. Marka u Veneciji. Na vrhu zvonika nalazi se kip sv. Pelagija, Ëiji se dan, ujedno i dan grada, slavi 28. kolovoza i popraÊen je sveËanostima i mnogim dogaanjima. Muzej Lapidarium Ëuva zbirku od 93 spomenika iz antiËkog doba te ranoga i kasnoga srednjeg vijeka. Skulpture su smjeπtene u arhitektonske okvire koji doËaravaju njihov izvorni poloæaj, primjerice, ostaci poznatoga Mauricijevog ciborija u prostoru πto oponaπa davno nestali baptisterij. Na poluotoku Karpinjan oËarat Êe vas ostaci velike stancije s kasnobaroknom palaËom obitelji Rigo, dovrπenom 1770. godine. U tome je predjelu i spomeniËki lokalitet Dajla ∑ jedna od rijetkih stancija uz more. Na antiËkim temeljima podignuta je u 5. st. starokrπÊanska bazilika, a poslije benediktinski samostan uklopljen u klasicistiËki kompleks s dvorcem, crkvom i gospodarskom zgradom. U prostoru Gallerion moæe se razgledati zbirka posveÊena austrougarskoj mornarici. U starim zemljovidima i pomorskim kartama, nautiËkim instrumentima, oruæju, odorama mornara, poæutjelim fotografijama, uæivat Êe svi ljubitelji mora i pomorstva te maketarstva. Nalazite li pak da vam svi ti artefakti ipak premalo podiæu adrenalin, u Novigradu ili njegovoj blizini na raspolaganju su vam sportovi koji Êe vas zacijelo zadovoljiti ∑ tenis, biciklizam, golf, nordijsko hodanje, istraæivanje kraπkih πpilja, slobodno penjanje, paragliding s litica ili lov u dolini Mirne, kanu safari... Ili ronjenje ∑ istraæivanje novigradskog podmorja, potopljene rimske utvrde na kojoj je izrastao grad, ili pak zaπtiÊenog lokaliteta nedaleko od Novigrada, gdje se na dubini od 11 do 25 metara nalazi Coriolanus, potonuli minolovac Britanske kraljevske mornarice, koji je stradao ∑ od mine... Ako vas pokreÊe natjecateljski duh, imat Êete priliku odmjeriti snage u triatlonu koji se organizira u lipnju, u plivaËkome maratonu u srpnju ili trËanju oko zidina na festivalu Run&Party u kolovozu. U Novigradu je na malom prostoru dostupna πiroka smjeπtajna ponuda pa se moæe birati izmeu vrhunskih hotela, autokampova, ili 80

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jedne od ponajbolje opremljenih marina na Jadranu, u prirodno zaπtiÊenoj uvali. A da biste se na veËer zabavili, domaÊini su se pobrinuli da vam nipoπto ne bude dosadno. Osim trodnevne feπte sv. Pelagija s vatrometom na kraju, tijekom cijele godine neπto se dogaa. PoËetak turistiËke sezone simboliËno se oznaËava u lipnju vikendom kapeπante, za koju tvrde da je najbolja na svijetu. Na nekoliko desetaka metara dugaËkom stolu nude se jela od πkoljaka po simboliËnim cijenama, ali moæe se razgledati i kuπati i ostala gastronomska ponuda Novigrada. Osobito je atraktivan showcooking, priprema nekoliko jela od kapeπanti pred publikom, sve, dakako, popraÊeno tradicijskom glazbom i igrama. Zanimljiv je i meunarodni slikarski natjeËaj Ex tempore, na kojemu se ocjenjuju djela nastala na dan odræavanja. U poËetku srpnja odræavaju se Ljetni karneval i Parkfest, glazbeni festival mladih s poznatim imenima rocka, reggaea i funky scene. Slijedi gastro manifestacija More na stolu posveÊena jelima od ribe, pa VeËer uliËnih Ëarobnjaka i Astro party. Blues, soul i latino glazba zastupljeni su sredinom srpnja, a Jazz festival odræava se u kolovozu. Susreti zborova, izloæbe slika i fotografija, feπta od srdela i joπ mnogo, mnogo toga - Novigrad vam jednostavno neÊe dopustiti da se dosaujete. Ovdje je gost svetinja i sve mu je drugo podreeno. A kad sve iskuπate, sve vidite, sve proæivite, joπ moæete, neke tople veËeri, jednostavno sjesti negdje na obali i spokojno promatrati igru zvijezda na tamnoj vodi. Udisati mirise mora, sluπati bilo staroga grada, æamor sretnih ljudi koji prolaze. ©to bi joπ Ëovjek mogao poæeljeti... ■

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ld historic cities have exceptional and unique characteristics of their own, layers upon layers of traces of time which are centuries old. All new and contemporary cities bear a certain mutual resemblance that was founded in their youth. Hearing the name of Novigrad, Cittanova, one would probably think of the latter, of a place where the streets are wide and rows of houses all look alike. However, a visit to that lovely town, whose name in written documents dates all the way back to 599, will show that the name is not always a sign. The settlement is undoubtedly much older, given that from 520 to 1831 it acted as the seat of the diocese of the same name. In the city’s surrounding area there were already references to the ancient Aemonia, a Greek sailors’ colony, Neapolis and, finally, the fortified Roman town of Civitas Novum. The old core of Novigrad, with its preserved medieval urban grid of narrow stone alleys and


small charming piazzas, as well as ramparts and turrets, initially sprang up on a small island, which was later, in the 1700s, prudently connected with the mainland enabling it to develop and spread. It is located on the north-western side of the Istrian coast, west of the farthest protruding point of the Croatian mainland. Describing Novigrad is almost unimaginable without mentioning Istria. The magical and gentle Croatian region, Terra Magica, as the Romans called it, takes the best from the surrounding sea and yields the best from its fertile soil. The Istrian flag is thus blue like its sea and skies, and green like its vineyards and fields. The goat on its coat of arms, the symbol of Istria since ancient Roman times, is a LaFontainesque representation of skill and freedom, and an entirely Croatian representation of a relentless, modest and proud breadwinner. Istria is a land of coastal towns with bell-towers used by ships for orientation, a land of frescos based on the Poor Man’s Bible, a land of castellos and stanzias, of Byzantine basilicas and early Christian chapels, lavish palaces, shepherd’s shacks (kaæun) and dry-stone walls. It is also a land of fishermen, field hands and noblemen, olive oil makers and shipbuilders, mythical and actual giants, a land of the most delicious truffles, the softest wild asparagus, famous olive oil and excellent wines. The name Teran, an indigenous ruby-red variety of wine, is mentioned in written documents that are more than 600 years old. They testify that the wine used to be given as a gift to Venetian and Austrian ambassadors. Teran is also the main ingredient in a warm and relaxing Istrian soup. The dense and dark nectar of the Refoπk variety was relished by Casanova himself, possibly accounting for his success among women. Much earlier, the Roman writer Pliny the Elder thus praised the vinum Pucinum, claiming that it was Istrian and advising the empress Livia to use that particular beverage as the cornerstone of vital old age. Cassiodorus, the secretary of the Ostrogothic king Theodoricus, describes Istria by praising its wine, oil and corn. He wrote the following lines about Istrian towns: Many palaces even from afar demonstrate exquisite beauty, like pearls on a beautiful woman’s head... We do not know which wine Bonaparte relished in, possibly the golden and fragrant Malvasia, mature and fresh at the same time. However, it is very possible that the Golden Gates of Pula inspired him to erect the magnificent Arc de Triumph, which bears the name of Istria among its engravings, and was one of Napoleon’s numerous victories. Jules Verne paid a certain tribute to Istria as well. In his Extraordinary Voyages he set the story of Mathias Sandorf in the

heart of Istria. He used the magical scenery of a medieval castello in Pazin, with its ominous, still unexplored abyss and its torrent, which brought both danger and salvation to the novel’s protagonist. Istria represents a duality of complimentary worlds; the excitement, sun and iodine of its coast and the stillness of the forests, mist and clouds that reveal enchanting quiet towns in the inland of the peninsula. Istria is a meeting point of the Slavic, Germanic and Roman spirit. In addition to the Croats, the Liburns, Histri, Greeks, Celts, Romans, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Langobards, Franks, Venetians, Austrians, Italians and Slovenes inhabited, crossed, enriched and pillaged it, building it up and tearing down, waging endless wars. It is a place of Latin conquest and Glagolitic re-conquest, a meeting point of sea and land routes, ever since the times of the Amber Way. It was used by the Aegeans and Hellenes to reach the Baltic. It is the place where the moist tongue of the Mediterranean slides to the greatest extent into the soft abdomen of Europe, yet it is still isolated enough, courtesy of its high and wooded mountains, to remain exceptional and unique. The Istrian language, dialect, traditions and folk costumes, Istrian food, the Istrian music scale and instruments, roæenice or sopele and miπnice, are all things that the people of Croatia have created and preserved throughout thousands of years of struggling for survival in this promised land. And finally, at the western part of the Istrian mainland is Novigrad, a town of approximately five thousand inhabitants, recently declared the most developed town in Croatia according to strict and tedious parameters of employment, income and revenues. What used to be a fishermen town is today a tourist sight, boasting one of the longest traditions in Croatia. A valid proof of that is the very first travel guide of Novigrad, published in 1845 by Pietro Kandler, a Triestine archaeologist and historian, and an honorary imperial conservationist for the region of Primorje. In Novigrad in 1894 a bathing resort was opened, followed by two hotels in 1896. Similarly to the rest of Istria, tourism in Novigrad is blessed with three fortunate advantages: natural beauty, a rich cultural heritage and hospitality. It is situated on a low and accessible coast, with rocky gravel beaches mainly shaded by ancient pine trees. A park spreads along the coast, the backdrop is green with fields and vineyards, and the Riviera extends from the estuary of the river Mirna to Dajla, one of the five settlements that form Novigrad. Novigrad’s beaches boast the cleanest sea in this part of the Adriatic. CROATIA AIRLINES

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The town gradually developed from a late ancient castrum, a civic settlement with defensive urban elements. Already mentioned in documents dating back as early as the Roman government, in the 5th century it became a political, religious and economic centre ∑ the seat of a diocese that spread between the rivers of Dragonja and Mirna. Throughout centuries, Novigrad has lived to see many administrations: Byzantine, Frankish, German, Venetian, French, Austrian and Italian. Each of them left an indelible trace of their culture in the town’s stone hardware, but also a few codes in the culture, tradition and customs of its inhabitants. Some took more than they gave, while others are still remembered by the good, like the Carolingians, who made the town one of the most significant centres of the Frankish Empire’s maritime province. Prosperity began when Novigrad was chosen as the seat of Duke Ivan with a sword in one hand and a crucifix in the other. The merger between the church and state was Charlemagne’s imperial policy. Therefore, it was logical that the two key figures of all events in this town at the turn of the 800s were a church prelate, Bishop Mauritius, and a representative of the political elite, dux Iohannes, each with a duty of their own: the bishop to implement the plans of the papal state, and the duke to carry out the plans of the great empire. It was the time of the most intense social and economic urban development, tangibly reflecting itself as the golden age of the local architecture. However, frequent pillages by Langobards and Turks, followed by wars and apocalyptical diseases, primarily the plague and malaria, have time and time again, in their own turn, devastated the persistently renewing urban and population structure. Individual architectural blocks bearing the coats of arms of town officials from different periods stand as testimonies. Its current appearance, its historical core, regardless of the strong resistance against the Venetian domination, still bears a clear imprint of the Venetian administration, despite the destitution and political degradation of Novigrad which occurred simultaneously. Novigrad was thus dubbed a town with a long and splendid past, but with brief peaks. Impressive fragments of the 13-century ramparts which used to surround the entire town are visible from afar. They were built in the oldfashion way, in chiselled stone with imposing merlons, reinforced with round Renaissance turrets, and they provide an account of the dangers of frequent invasions from both the land and the sea. Next to the former town gate is a quadrangular tower from a previous period. An unusual town loggia located right by the 82

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sea, the only such loggia in Istria, was probably built in the 16th century and renovated several times. The semicircular passage of Porta marina opens towards the sea on its west side. The capstone of the arched passage was engraved with 1649, but the structure itself was transferred to its current position, on the north-western side of the town, in the 1800s. An enjoyable promenade follows along the outside of the walls and leads toward the beach. Within the walls is an intricate grid of alleys with shops, pastry shops, famous taverns and restaurants, some of which have been described as the best in the Mediterranean. It is not a coincidence that the ancient Romans called Istria the imperial pantry. Istrian prosciutto, sheep and goat cheese, asparagus omelettes, truffle lasagne, shells, oysters, mussels, scallops, fresh fish carpaccio, gilt-head bream, bass, dentex, monkfish, crab, lobsters and shrimps, gnocchi, pljukanci and fuæi (home-made traditional Istrian pasta), ægvacet (Istrian meat casserole), macaroni, thick and rich minestrones, followed by ombolo (pork cutlet), octopus and blackfish, sweet doughnuts and home-made cakes... From time to time, all of these conspire against our decisions and self-discipline and, on top of everything else, they require the company of good home-made wine, Merlot, Rose, Pinot, or Muscat... Novigrad is a town with two oil mills, and is renowned for its olive oil and quite rightfully deserves its place in the itinerary of the new tourist offer Olive Oil Road, based on the successful model of the equally attractive wine road. The road extends along the colourful areas of north-western Istria, from Buje and Oprtalj in the mainland, to Novigrad and PoreË on the coast, and Vodnjan and Faæana in the south. Around eighty olive growers and oil makers offer home-made olive oil tasting, made from hand-picked olives and old phenotypes, bjelica, buæa, leccino and frantoi. This beneficial liquid gold of the Mediterranean is served in small glasses or on plates, occasionally reheated slightly to release a better flavour. Amateur palates thus learn to detect different types of specific bouquets ∑ green apples, artichokes, chicory, mown grass, fruit and many other tasty associations. Novigrad is not only about tastes and smells; its cultural heritage equally satisfies one’s much more refined needs. When walking around the stone town one will pass interesting gothic and baroque structures, while inevitably, hanging high above you from one end of the street to the other, are the typically Mediterranean flags of freshly washed laundry. As you walk you

reach the parish church which bears three names: Virgin Mary, St. Maximilian and St. Pelagius. Although baroquicised in the 1700s, it preserved the fragments of Romanesque and even old Christian basilicas. Below the shrine, behind the main altar, is a semi-buried early Romanesque Medieval crypt, the only such crypt in Istria and very rare even in the rest of Croatia. According to recent research, it dates back to the turn of the 8th-9th century. In the central part of the three-nave crypt, with its solid cross arch, is a confessional with an inscription by Bishop Adam that dates back to 1146. In the late 1800s, fragments of liturgical furnishings from the early Medieval period were found in the crypt. Today they are on display at the Novigrad Lapidarium. The best stone masonries from the turn of the 9th century were necessary to decorate such a lavish cathedral. The famous Mauritius Ciborium is undoubtedly the work of a Friulian stone masonry whose furnishings were used to decorate all the important ecclesiastical centres in the 8th century. The artistic value of some of the furnishings is truly remarkable; they are carved deeply and symmetrically, like a Roman sculpture. The crypt used to contain the sarcophagus with the relics of St. Pelagius, the patron saint of the town, a Christian martyr that was decapitated in the 3rd century after a series of inventive torture methods which, oddly, did not harm him one bit. The detached bell tower was built with the St. Mark’s bell tower in Venice in mind. A statue of St. Pelagius was erected on top. The holiday of St. Pelagius, the official day of the town, is celebrated on 28th August with festivities and events. The Lapidarium Museum keeps a collection of 93 antique and early and late Medieval monuments. The sculptures are set in architectural frames which depict their original position. For instance, the remnants of the famous Mauritius Ciborium were exhibited in a space mimicking the long lost baptistery. The Karpinjan peninsula hosts the breathtaking remnants of a large stanzia and a late-Baroque palace of the Rigo family, completed in 1770. This region also contains the monument sight of Dajla ∑ one of the rare stanzias by the sea. An early Christian basilica was erected in the 5th century and afterwards a Benedictine monastery was incorporated into the Classicistic complex with a castle, church and agricultural building. The Gallerion exhibition space presents a collection dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian navy. Old maps and nautical charts, instruments, weapons, sailors’ uniforms and yellowish photographs are a thrill to all the lovers of the sea, seafaring and model making.


Should you find all these artefacts not thrilling enough, Novigrad and its surrounding areas offer you a range of athletic activities to your liking ∑ tennis, cycling, golf, Nordic walking, karst cave exploring, free-climbing, paragliding from cliffs or hunting in the valley of the Mirna River, canoe safari... Or if you prefer diving ∑ exploring the Novigrad underwater, the sunken Roman forts the town was built on, or a protected sight near Novigrad, at a depth of 11 to 25 metres: the Coriolanus, the sunken British Royal Navy minesweeper which perished from ∑ a mine! Those driven by a competitive spirit have the chance to try their luck in a triathlon that is organised in June, a swimming marathon in July or running round the walls at the Run&Party festival in August. A wide array of accommodation is available in a very limited space; one can choose from first-class hotels, camps or one of the best marinas in the Adriatic, situated in a naturally protected bay. For your evening entertainment, the hosts make sure that you are never bored. In addition to the three-day St. Pelagius festival which includes fireworks, events are organised throughout the entire year. The beginning of the season is symbolically marked in June with a scallop weekend, claimed to be the best in the world. On a large table, several dozen metres long, shellfish dishes are offered at symbolic prices, but other gastro pleasures of Novigrad are also available to taste. A very appealing part of the event is show-cooking, preparing several scallop dishes in front of an audience, accompanied by traditional music and games. The international painting competition Ex Tempore is another interesting event, and the works that are made that very day are also judged. Early in July the town organises the Summer Festival and Parkfest, a music festival that hosts renowned rock, reggae and funk musicians. These are followed by the cooking event Sea on Your Table, which is dedicated to seafood, The Evening of Street Wizards and Astro Party. Blues, soul and Latin music take their cue in mid-July, while the Jazz Festival is held in August. Choir meetings, art and photography exhibitions, a festival of sardines and many other things ∑ Novigrad has simply no room for boredom. Visitors are sacred here and everything is tailored to their needs. Having tried, tasted, seen and experienced everything, you will always be able to spend a warm summer night sitting somewhere by the sea, peacefully watching the stars dancing on the dark surface of the water. Breathe in the fragrant sea, listen to the pulse of the old town and the buzz of the happy passers-by. What more could a person want... ■ 84

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■ OTOCI ISLANDS

MOREŠKA - AN ETERNAL STRUGGLE BETWEEN GOOD AND EVIL Igre maËevima nekoÊ su se stoljeÊima izvodile po starim sredozemnim gradovima, a danas opstaju u KorËuli. Putnici sa svih strana svijeta uæivaju u lokalnom spektaklu æivopisnoga grada, koji zovu jednim od najljepπih na Jadranu. Promatraju staru bitku bijele i crne vojske, raskoπni sudar maËeva i graciozni sklad kretnji, ali nisu ni svjesni koliko je ta igra, taj posljednji autentiËni maËevalaËki ples na Sredozemlju, zapravo utkan u æivotno tkivo korËulanskoga druπtva. Sword dances were prevalent in old Mediterranean towns for centuries. Nowadays, they exist in KorËula. Visitors from all over the world enjoy the spectacle which has become the trademark of this picturesque town, a town considered by many to be one of the most beautiful on the Adriatic coast. While observing the centuries’ old battle between the white and black armies, the extravagant confrontation of swords and the refined harmony of movements, they are unaware as to how deeply the authentic dance with swords, the last such surviving game on the Adriatic coast, is entwined into the lives of KorËula’s society.

Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos Davor Rostuhar

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jeËni boj dobra i zla zapodijeva se na kamenoj pozornici KorËule gotovo svaki dan u turistiËkoj sezoni. »ini se da je to spektakl za turiste, temeljen na nekoj davnoj tradiciji, ali taj je ples baπ ovdje preæivio sva stoljeÊa, danas je bitniji nego ikad, a osobni identiteti KorËulana u 21. stoljeÊu grade se u odnosu na ulogu moreπkanta u toj naslijeenoj baπtini. AutentiËnosti korËulanske moreπke mogu svjedoËiti samo povlaπteni posjetitelji, na dan svetog Todora, zaπtitnika KorËule, 29. srpnja svake godine. Za razliku od svakoga drugog

nastupa moreπkanata tijekom godine, toga je svetog dana pristup kamenoj pozornici dopuπten samo graanima staroga grada. Tad popriπte bitke nije osvijetljeno snaænim neonskim svjetlima kako bi turisti mogli snimiti dobre fotografije, nego priguπenim bakljama koje Ëitav ambijent vraÊaju u doba minulih stoljeÊa iz kojih je moreπka izniknula. Tad na pozornicu stupa crni kralj vodeÊi otetu djevojku bulu okovanu lancima. Nudi joj cijelo kraljevstvo da poe za nj, ali ona ga odbija, vjerna bijelom kralju i slobodi. Gorostasni bijeli kralj uto stupa na scenu praÊen svojom CROATIA AIRLINES

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vojskom snaænih mladiÊa i dramatiËnim zvukovima pedeseteroËlanoga orkestra puhaÊe glazbe. Crni kralj ne pristaje vratiti bulu gospodaru njezina srca, pa se zapodijeva boj dviju sila. Crni i bijeli leprπavo lete kamenom pozornicom, odmjeravaju snage i ukrπtaju maËeve. Iz kolapa u kolap, iz Ëina u Ëin, sraz dviju snaga buja i buja. Svaki kolap nosi svoje kretnje i svoju koreografiju, a svaki je sljedeÊi sve æeπÊi i jaËi. Nakon Ëetvrtog kolapa opet se upliÊe bula i moli momke da mirom okonËaju boj, no u njima se rasplamsao æar, pa se bitka zapodijeva joπ jaËe. Lica se mrπte, maËevi iskre, a tu i tamo netko zaista dobije po prstima, pa se zaËuje krik, a kapljice krvi ukrase sveËana odijela. Do sedmog kolapa svaki se vojnik naizmjence, bræe nego prije, bori s dvojicom suparnika istodobno. Kretnje se skladno ubrzavaju, a pod tempom glazbe tlaËe se do kreπenda. Crni napokon bivaju opkoljeni, padaju na tlo na izmaku snage i predaju se. Bijeli kralj osvaja bulu i pobjedu peËati cjelovom. Publika pljeπÊe, ali moreπka tu ne staje, ona tek poËinje. Zapuhani moreπkanti, stare i nove bule, Ëlanovi orkestra, svi se okupljaju u konobi gdje poËinje pjesma i vino poteËe u potocima. - KlasiËna je to bitka dobra i zla, koja se vrti oko æene - kaæe Toni Lozica, bijeli kralj. - Mi moreπku ne glumimo i ne pleπemo, nego je zaista borimo, svaku bitku ispoËetka, kao da je prva, kao da je posljednja! To je elementarna borba, muπka stvar, borba za djevojku. To je vjeËna stvar. Da je bilo iπta politiËko ili religijsko u moreπki, ne bi ona opstala sve ove godine! Ne zna se toËno kad je i kako nastala moreπka, ali sigurno je da se prije Ëetiri ili pet stoljeÊa plesala po cijelome Sredozemlju. Najraπirenija teorija postanka moreπke kaæe da je igra πpanjolskog porijekla i da simbolizira rekonkistu, ponovno krπÊansko osvajanje pirenejskog poluotoka poπto su njime viπe stoljeÊa gospodarili Mauri. Etimoloπki, moreπka najvjerojatnije i dolazi od rijeËi Maur, Mor. Prema toj teoriji moreπka se prvi put plesala u Leridi sredinom 12. stoljeÊa u spomen na protjerivanje Maura, a zatim se proπirila cijelim Sredozemljem, te u KorËulu doπla preko Juæne Italije i Dubrovnika u 16. st. S tim se ne slaæe Elsie Ivanchich Dunin, profesorica emerita kalifornijskog sveuËiliπta UCLA. Ta ugledna etnokoreologinja hrvatskih korijena, posljednjih godina boravi u Hrvatskoj i prouËava moreπku. Otkrila je mnoge zanimljivosti te razvila svoju teoriju. - Istraæujem varijantu da je moreπka doπla na KorËulu iz Venecije, najkasnije u poËetku 17. stoljeÊa - rekla je umirovljena profesorica. - Kad se spremala velika pomorska bitka kod Lepanta 1571. godine, MleËani su sa svojih teritorija zaposlili stotine vjeπtih radnika, a KorËulani su bili poznati brodograditelji. Ti su se ljudi 92

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dræali skupa u cehovima, æenili meusobno i kumili. U Veneciji su pak pripadnici svih cehova morali sudjelovati u Ëestim blagdanskim ceremonijama, gdje se vrlo vjerojatno prakticirala i moreπka. Pretpostavljam da su ondje KorËulani nauËili moreπku i donijeli je zatim na KorËulu. Druπtvo je na otoku u novom vijeku bilo jasno raslojeno. U unutraπnjosti ljudi su se bavili poljoprivredom i manje stoËarstvom, a KorËula je bila jedini obalni grad, zidinama opasan i razvijen. Svaka otoËna utjecajna obitelj imala je svoju kuÊu unutar korËulanskih zidina. Tu su ljudi uglavnom bili tesari i kovaËi pri brodogradnji, te takoer kamenoklesari i ribari. Profesorica Ivanchich Dunin kaæe kako su moreπku mogli igrati brodograditelji, snaæni ljudi. - U novinama potkraj 19. stoljeÊa objavljen je popis imena moreπkanata, a ja sam saznala da su gotovo svi pripadali brodograditeljskim obiteljima. U crkvenim spisima pratila sam njihovu genealogiju unatrag sve do polovice 16. stoljeÊa, otkad postoje biljeπke. Iz dokumenata se vidi da je jaka grupa brodograditelja tad otiπla u Veneciju, πto potkrepljuje moje pretpostavke. Koji god bio toËan razlog postanka moreπke i njezina dolaska na KorËulu, te kako da je god krivudav put bio njezine evolucije kroz povijesne turbulencije, jedno je sigurno: moreπka se nekoÊ uprizorivala po Ëitavom Sredozemlju, a opstala samo u KorËuli, i to ne samo da je opstala kao dio folklora, nego je i danas autentiËna. Bolje nego promatrajuÊi samu predstavu, tomu se moæe posvjedoËiti promatrajuÊi moreπkante prije i nakon predstave te u svakodnevnom æivotu. U konobi vino veÊ pomalo opija moreπkante koji, unatoË tomu, zadræavaju viteπku pristojnost i velikodostojnost, ali to ih ne sputava da ne grle bule i ne pjevaju grleno. U jednom trenu pokazuju oæiljke od borbe na glavi i rukama, koji svjedoËe da je, kako moreπkanti kaæu, posrijedi prava bitka dobra i zla, a ne predstava. Jedan od najstarijih aktivnih moreπkanata, Vojo ©krabec, objasnio je kako je moreπka znaËajna za njihovo mjesto. - Moreπka je naËin æivota, i mnogo viπe od toga. Svi u KorËuli znaju tko su moreπkanti, a gotovo svaka obitelj dala je bar jednog moreπkanta ili bulu. Kad vas neko dijete vidi sa sto metara kako idete niz cestu, viËe za vama, diæe ruke, oponaπa kretnje moreπke… Sve kretnje veÊ u kolijevci znaju napamet… - Uf, vidite - zasuËe rukav i pokazuje podlakticu. - Sav sam se najeæio. To je to. Moreπka je KorËulanima smisao æivota. n

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he eternal struggle between good and evil is re-enacted nearly every day during the tourist season on a stone stage in KorËula.

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Visitors assume that this is just another spectacle for tourists, albeit rooted in some old tradition. But this dance, which has spanned centuries, is even more important today than ever before and the personal identities of KorËula’s residents in the 21st century rely heavily on the legacy of their predecessors who danced the Moreπka in the past. Only a privileged few can witness the authentic Moreπka of KorËula, on 29th July, the Day of St. Theodor, the patron saint of KorËula. Unlike the other performances on any other day of the year, on that particular day, nobody but the citizens of this ancient city are granted access to the stone stage. The battle ground is not lit with the powerful neon lights which normally allow tourists to take the best snapshot, but rather with dimmed torches which conjure up the atmosphere of the former centuries when the Moreπka dance first came into being. The black king appears on the stage leading the kidnapped girl, bula, in chains. He offers her his kingdom if she succumbs to him, but she turns him down and remains steadfastly loyal to the white king and her freedom. At that point, the gigantic white king descends upon the stage, accompanied by an army of muscular young men and the dramatic sounds of a fifty member strong wind string orchestra. The black king refuses to return the bula to the master of her heart, and a battle between the two forces ensues. Black and white swordsmen flutter across the stone stage; they come head-to-head and cross their swords, from one kolap (stroke) to the next, from one act to the other, the clash of the two forces gains momentum. Every stroke is characterised by its own set of movements and choreography, and they follow each other in a crescendo. After the fourth stroke, the bula intervenes and implores with the young men to end the dispute peacefully, but it is too late. The battle rages furiously and the fight becomes even fiercer. Faces frown, swords clang and spark; every now and again somebody gets their fingers slapped and lets out a scream; drops of blood stain their festive uniforms. In the build-up to the seventh kolap, each soldier takes his turn fighting two rivals simultaneously, every time more feverishly than before. The intricate and harmonious movements gain momentum, while the music mounts accordingly, to a furious crescendo. Finally, the black army is encircled; the weary and exhausted swordsmen all fall to the ground and surrender. The white king wins the bula, and seals his victory with a kiss. The audiences clap their hands, but the Moreπka is anything but over; it has barely started. The Moreπka dancers, now short of breath, the new and 96

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old bulas, the orchestra, and everybody else gather in a wine cellar where the singing begins and there is wine galore. - This is a classic battle of good and evil, with a woman at the centre of the story, says Toni Lozica, the white king. We do not act, we do not dance the Moreπka; we fight for real, time and time again, and every battle feels like the first, and each and every one is fought as if it were the last! This elementary fight is a male thing; the struggle for the girl is an eternal motif. If there were anything political or religious in the Moreπka, it would not have survived all these years! The origins of the Moreπka are lost in history, but one thing is certain: four or five centuries ago, the dance prevailed across the entire Mediterranean coast. According to the most widely accepted theory of the Moreπka, the dance originates from Spain and symbolizes the reconquista, the period when Christians succeeded in retaking the Iberian peninsula from the Moors who had ruled it for centuries before that. Even the etymology indicates that the word moreπka most probably comes from the word Moor. According to that theory, the Moreπka was first danced in Lerida in the mid-12th century to commemorate the time when the Moors had been chased from the area, and from there it spread across the entire Mediterranean coast. It arrived in KorËula through Southern Italy and Dubrovnik in the 16th century. Elsie Ivanchich Dunin, Professor Emeritus of the Californian UCLA University, does not agree with that theory. The reputable dance ethnologist of Croatian descent has spent a few years in Croatia in order to study the Moreπka. She has made many interesting discoveries and developed her own theory, probably the most precise so far. - According to the theory that I have been exploring, the Moreπka arrived on the island of KorËula from Venice, no later than the early 17th century, says the retired professor. - In preparation for the big naval battle of Lepanto in 1571, the Venetians employed hundreds of skilful workers from across their territories, and the islanders of KorËula were known as master shipbuilders. At the time, craftsmen stuck with one another; they rallied around guilds; they intermarried and served as godfathers to each other. In Venice, members of all the different guilds had to participate in numerous festive ceremonies, some of which also involved the Moreπka sword dance. I believe that it was there that the islanders of KorËula learned how to dance the Moreπka and then brought it back to their native island. Society on the island was clearly stratified in the recent past. The population inland engaged

mostly in agriculture and less commonly in cattle breeding, while KorËula was the only seaside city, walled in and quite highly developed. Every influential family on the island had a residence within the city walls. The people who lived there were mostly shipwrights and blacksmiths, as well as stonemasons and fishermen. Professor Ivanchich Dunin says that only shipbuilders, who were tough and strong, could dance the Moreπka. - Around the 19th century, a newspaper published a list of the names of all the Moreπka dancers. I studied the list and realized that nearly all of them belonged to the families of shipbuilders. I followed their genealogy in the church books back to the mid-16th century, from the time the records had been kept. The documents reveal that a big group of shipbuilders had gone to Venice at that time, which corroborates my assumptions. Whatever the exact reasons for the first appearance of the Moreπka dance on KorËula and its popularity on the island, and however shaky the path of its evolution has been through historical turbulences, one thing is certain: the Moreπka, once prevalent across the entire Mediterranean coast, has survived only on the island of KorËula. Not only has it survived as part of the folklore tradition, but also as an authentic event to this very day. If you observe the dancers before and after the performance, and see them in their everyday lives, you will be shown their devotion to the dance even more so than actually seeing them in action on the stage. In the cellar, the wine has already intoxicated the dancers, but they retain their chivalrous dignity and manners. However, this does not prevent them from singing at the top of their lungs. At one point the dancers decide to display the battle scars on their heads and hands to prove that they do not pretend and playact, but rather engage in a real battle of good and evil. One of the oldest active Moreπka dancers, Vojo ©krabec, explains the significance of the Moreπka for their city: - The Moreπka is a way of life and much more than that. Everybody in KorËula knows who the Moreπka dancers are, and nearly every family has spawned at least one Moreπka dancer or a bula. When a child sees you from a hundred meters away, they start shouting after you, raising their arms and miming Moreπka moves… They already know all the movements when they are still in their cribs… - See here, he rolls up his sleeve and displays his forearm. I am covered in goose bumps just talking to you about the thing that I love most. That is the Moreπka for you ∑ the very meaning of life for the citizens of KorËula. n


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DOGA–AJI EVENTS ■

Tekst/By Jordanka GrubaË Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan

Flota od dvadesetak drvenih, tradicijskih brodova uplovila je u hvarsku luku. Bio je to poËetak ostvarivanja jednog sna o plovidbi davnim rutama, start regate Rota palagruzona od Hvara do Visa, pa do Komiæe i, na posljetku, do Palagruæe. Jedinstvena slika na tren je oæivjela davne prizore iz 16. stoljeÊa. A fleet of some twenty traditional wooden boats sailed into Hvar’s harbour. That was the beginning of a dream come true, a dream about sailing the old routes, the start of the Rota Palagruzona regatta from the island of Hvar to Vis, Komiæa, and finally to the island of Palagruæa. For a brief moment the unique scene conjured up images of times past, going as far back as the 16th century. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ad je prije trinaest godina, 6. prosinca 1997., na blagdan svetog Nikole, u Komiæi porinuta prva obnovljena gajeta falkuπa, nekoÊ tradicionalni brod kojim su komiπki ribari odlazili u ribolov prema puËinskom otoku Palagruæa, zapaljen je oganj koji se do danas dobro razgorio istoËnom obalom Jadrana. Obnovljene su na tim stranama mnoge drvene brodice, sagraene nove, obnovljena je i plovidba i regatavanje na latinsko jedro i druga stara jedra osobito na otoku Murteru, odnosno Kornatima, ali i cijelome srednjojadranskom podruËju. A ondje juænije, odakle je taj svojevrsni pokret otpora poËeo, u Komiæi na Visu, Kulturna ustanova Ars Halieutica obnovila je falkuπu i odluËila obnoviti i povijesnu regatu komiπkih ribara na ruti Komiæa∑Palagruæa. Posljednja regata na toj viπestoljetnoj ruti ispraÊena je 13. lipnja 1936. godine, na blagdan sv. Antuna, dan kad se u Komiæi blagoslivlje more. - Tridesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa - kaæe danas Joπko BoæaniÊ, inicijator i idejni tvorac i obnove falkuπe i regate Rota palagruzona - u komiπkome je portu upaljen prvi motor u ribarskoj barci i kad je ona zatim krenula, a bez vesala i bez jedara, uza silnu buku i dim, meu svjedocima tog mirakula oduπevljenja... nije

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bilo. Nisu znali, ali osjetili su u tom dogaaju poËetak novog vremena u kojemu Êe njihov svijet biti definitivno dovrπen. Doista, samo nekoliko godina zatim ispraÊena je posljednja regata falkuπa, koja je iz komiπke luke krenula prema Palagruæi, na Antunovo trideset i πeste... A 21. lipnja ove, 2010. godine, flota od dvadesetak drvenih, tradicijskih brodova uplovila je u hvarsku luku. Bio je to poËetak ostvarivanja jednog sna o plovidbi davnim rutama, start regate Rota palagruzona od Hvara do Visa, pa do Komiæe i, na posljetku, do Palagruæe. Doplovili su brodovi od Bakra, preko Murtera, Tribunja, Vodica i ©ibenika, iz Splita, Kaπtela, s KorËule, dvije falkuπe iz Komiæe, i domaÊi hvarski brodovi, sve u hvarski mandraÊ i uokolo njega. Bila je to jedinstvena slika koja je bar na tren oæivjela davne prizore iz 16. stoljeÊa. Hvar je tada bio srediπte komune kojoj je pripadao i otok Vis. Komiπki notar Nikola BorËiÊ Jerolimov biljeæi da je 9. svibnja 1593. godine u Hvaru sastavljen spisak od 74 vlasnika gajeta falkuπa, koje Êe u poËetku ribolovnog mraka sudjelovati na regati od Komiæe do Palagruæe. Ribari se moraju javiti glavarima ribolova u Komiæi, Franji BorËiÊu i Jakovu Bogdanu, a samostalni odlazak na Palagruæu zabranjuje se pod prijetnjom kazne - osamnaest mje-


seci veslanja u okovima, na galiji... Hvarski knez nareuje da se naoruæaju, djeci ispod osamnaest godina zabranjen je odlazak, a svi imaju sluπati palagruπke glavare ili Êe, u protivnome, vezani zavrπiti u zatvoru... Komiπki su ribari stoljeÊima odlazili u lov na srdele oko Palagruæe, ribu su solili na æalu, a kad bi zavrπio ribolovni mrak, baËvice s usoljenom ribom falkuπama su odvozili u Komiæu. Bio je to unosan posao od kojega su æivjeli i napredovali i Komiæa, i cijeli Vis, a i Hvar. Na Palagruæu je katkad krenulo i stotinu brodova, a kako je to bilo vrijeme kad je cvjetalo gusarstvo, naoruæane posade pratila je komiπka galija. Komiπki ribari bili su tada jedini puËinski ribari na Sredozemlju, a u masovnim regatama organizirali su se ne samo zato πto su zajedno bili jaËi protiv gusara, nego i zato πto su se meusobno natjecali za bolje pozicije ribolova i bolje pozicije na palagruπkom æalu za izvlaËenje broda, soljenje ribe, suπenje mreæe. Pobjednici tih ribarskih regata bili su pravi junaci i njihova se slava prenosila s koljena na koljeno, naraπtajima. Bili su junaci Palagruæe. Joπko BoæaniÊ kaæe da je to bila najstarija regata u Europi, a povijesni dogaaj iz 1593. izronio je iz tame stoljeÊa na prvoj Roti pa-

lagruzoni i kao dodirom Ëarobnog πtapiÊa pretoËio se u ovo danaπnje vrijeme, u vrijeme baπtinika jedne zapravo veliËanstvene tradicije. U hvarskoj Loi Joπko BoæaniÊ proËitao je imena svih 74 ribara, bio je to jedinstven memento onima koji su neπto poËeli, koji su bili i koji su plovili, istim tim morem πto se uvuklo od puËine i Palagruæe do u hvarski mandraÊ...memento onima koji su od mora æivjeli, a falkuπa je bila njihov simbol. Za prvu obnovljenu povijesnu regatu Rota palagruzona prijavilo se devetnaest brodova: dvije komiπke falkuπe Comesa-Lisboa (rekonstruirana u povodu Svjetske izloæbe EXPO 98. u Lisabonu) i Mikula te kuter Komiæa, hvarska Lesna i Mociguzica, splitski leuti Slobodna Dalmacija i Leute moj, πibenski leut ©jor Brane te murterski BaæokiÊ i Jaruh, murterska πkolska gajeta Kurnatarica, veloluËka Pomozi Boæe, tribunjska Dumina, vodiËki kuter Lirica, bakarska gajeta ©ajeta, jedrenjak s danskom zastavom Bente Dorte, kaπtelanska replika Santa Maria, na posljetku i rogozniËka gajeta sa slovenskom posadom i viπka Bella fica. Vrijeme im nije bilo sklono. Sad viπe pravila nisu odreivali ribarski glavari nego - regatni odbor. A on je na start puπtao samo one koji su mogli bez opasnosti podnijeti plovidbu CROATIA AIRLINES

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po priliËno loπem vremenu i velikome moru, najprije do Visa. Na toj je dionici pobijedila murterska posada leuta Jaruh, na Ëijemu je kormilu bio Æeljko Jerat. Na dionici od Visa do Komiæe pobjednik je bila tribunjska gajeta Dumina, kojom je upravljao prvi hrvatski prekooceanski jedriliËar iz regate samaca Transat 97, ©ime StipaniËev, koji je prejedrio Atlantik sâm, u miniju od 6,5 metara, a sad ga evo na Palagruzoni! A onda je osvanulo jutro zavrπne regate, te uistinu povijesne plovidbe od Komiæe do Palagruæe. Svi bogovi mora, neba i kopna morali su dati pristanak za tu plovidbu: od Komiæe do Palagruæe valja preploviti 42 milje i zaista se moraju steÊi sve dobre kobi i povoljni uvjeti da bi se lae pouzdano otisnule, otplovile i vratile se u komiπku luku. Koliko su sati navigavali poznati komiπki ribari na toj dugoj i mukotrpnoj ruti? Tko bi ga znao! Tek, njihovi su potomci, oni koji su prvi stigli u cilj, a to je falkuπa Comesa-Lisboa, do Palagruæe jedrili sedam sati - samo neπto iza njih stigla je i druga falkuπa, Mikula, zatim i ostali brodovi iz regate. Zbog sigurnosti, i zbog svih onih koji su iz prve ruke æeljeli doæivjeti ovaj uistinu povijesni trenutak povratka sjajnoj i vrijednoj tradiciji, regatu nije pratila komiπka galija, nego suvremeni brodovi Palagruæa i

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novi hrvatski πkolski jedrenjak Kraljica mora, kojemu je to bilo pravo krπtenje - prvo sidrenje uz mitski, Diomedov otok. A kad se smirilo more i pala noÊ puna mjeseËine, na æalu su - kao i nekoÊ - zapaljene baklje i vatre na koje su vrijedni komiπki aktivisti pristavili gradele i lonce s brudetima, buzarama i ostalim delicijama toga osebujnog podneblja. Slavilo se dugo u noÊ, a neki su opet samo leæali na tome mnogima nedostiænom æalu, pogleda uprta u zvijezde koje nigdje pri kopnu nisu tako jasne. VeÊ s jutrom ostavili smo Palagruæu, onako Ëarobnu i rascvalu kaparama, njezinoj tiπini i sjenama onih koji su stoljeÊima na isti naËin stizali na njezino æalo, onima koji su æivjeli od njezina mora, napokon - onima koji su zasluæni πto je taj otok sastavni dio danaπnje domovine njihovih potomaka. n

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hirteen years ago, on St. Nicholas Day, on 6 December, an event was staged to launch a replica of the traditional gajeta falkuπa, a fishing boat on which fishermen from Komiæa used to go fishing in the open seas near the island of Palagruæa. The event sparked a fire which is still burning bright across the eastern Adriatic coast. Many old wooden boats have since been renovated and new ones have been built on these shores,


and the custom of sailing and regattas featuring boats with lateen rigs and other types of traditional sails has been going from strength to strength, particularly on the island of Murter, the Kornati archipelago and the entire central Adriatic area. Further down south, in Komiæa on the island of Vis, where the spark of that resistance movement of sorts was first ignited, Ars Halieutica, the maritime heritage foundation, reconstructed a falkuπa and decided to reinstate the historical regatta of Komiæa fishermen along the so-called Palagruæa route, from Komiæa to Palagruæa. The last edition of the regatta, which had been taking place for centuries along this traditional route, took place on 13 June 1936, on St. Anthony’s day, the day when the sea is traditionally blessed in Komiæa. The enthusiast behind the revival of the falkuπa and the Rota Palagruzona regatta is Joπko BoæaniÊ. He states that, In the thirties of last century, the first fishing boat engine was switched on in Komiæa’s harbour. There was no feeling of joy among the onlookers who witnessed the launch of the first enginepowered boat which cast off with a lot of noise and smoke in place of oars and a sail. They did not know it then, but they could sense that the event was the beginning of a new era which would put an end to the world as they knew it. Indeed, only a few years later, on St. Anthony’s day in 1936, the last regatta of falkuπa boats was seen off from the harbour of Komiæa towards the island of Palagruæa. And then, on 21 June of this year, 2010, a fleet of some twenty traditional wooden boats sailed into Hvar’s harbour. That was the beginning of a dream come true, a dream about sailing the old routes, the start of the Rota Palagruzona regatta from the island of Hvar to Vis, Komiæa, and finally to the island of Palagruæa. The boats had arrived from Bakar; they had sailed from Murter, Tribunj, Vodice and ©ibenik; from Split and Kaπtela; from KorËula; two falkuπa boats had arrived from Komiæa; there were also local boats from Hvar, and they all anchored in and around the port of Hvar. For a brief moment, the unique scene conjured up images of times past, going as far back as the 16th century. At that time, Hvar was the centre of a community to which the island of Vis also belonged. The notary of Komiæa, Nikola BorËiÊ Jerolimov, noted that on 9 May 1593, a list was compiled of 74 gajeta falkuπa owners who would participate in a regatta from Komiæa to Palagruæa when the dark moon period started. The fishermen were instructed to report to fishing masters Franjo BorËiÊ and Jakov Bogdan in Komiæa. Sailing solo to Palagruæa was strictly forbidden. The penalty for disobedience was CROATIA AIRLINES

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Pobjednici ribarskih regata bili su pravi junaci i njihova se slava prenosila s koljena na koljeno, naraπtajima. Bili su junaci Palagruæe. The winners of the fishermen regattas were hailed as veritable heroes whose fame was passed down from generation to generation. They were the champions of Palagruæa. working at an oar as a galley slave for 18 months. The duke of Hvar ordered that the fishermen be armed; children under 18 years of age were not allowed to sail; everybody was instructed to listen to the Palagruæa elders or they would be tied up and thrown in prison. For centuries the fishermen of Komiæa went fishing for sardines around the island of Palagruæa. They salted their catch on the shores, and when the dark moon period finished they loaded the barrels full of salted fish onto their falkuπa boats and hauled their cargo to Komiæa. It was a lucrative business from which the people of Komiæa, the entire island of Vis, and even Hvar prospered. Sometimes as many as up to a hundred boats would join the fishing expeditions to Palagruæa. Armed fishermen crews were accompanied by a war galley from Komiæa to keep the threat of pirates at bay. The fishermen of Komiæa were once the only ones in the entire Mediterranean Sea who went on such long fishing expeditions. They organized regattas not only because of the strength in numbers which afforded them more protection against pirates, but the outcome of the regatta was equally important as the fishermen competed for the rights to the best fishing areas and the best positions for pulling their boats ashore, salting their sardines and drying their nets on Palagruæa. The winners of the fishermen regattas were hailed as veritable heroes whose fame was passed down from generation to generation. They were the champions of Palagruæa.

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Joπko BoæaniÊ says that this regatta is the oldest in Europe. The historical event which first took place in 1593 re-emerged from the darkness of the centuries during the first Rota Palagruzona race. As if by magic, history has caught up with the present, the time of the safe keepers of this magnificent tradition. In the Lodge in the town of Hvar, Joπko BoæaniÊ read out the names of all of the original 74 fishermen, thus paying unique homage to those who started this something special, those who were there and who sailed across the same stretch of sea from Palagruæa to the port in Hvar... a memento to all those who lived from the sea and who cherished the falkuπa as their symbol. A total of 19 boats were registered to participate in the first revived historical Rota Palagruzona race: two Komiæa falkuπa boats, Comesa-Lisboa (constructed for the World EXPO 98 in Lisbon) and Mikula, as well as the cutter Komiæa; Lesna and Mociguzica from Hvar; two leuts from Split, Slobodna Dalmacija and Leute moj; a ©ibenik leut, ©jor Brane; as well as two from Murter, BaæokiÊ and Jaruh. There was also the gajeta Kurnatarica from the school in Murter; Pomozi Boæe from Vela Luka; Dumina from Tribunj; the cutter Lirica from Vodice; a gajeta from Bakar, ©ajeta; the boat that sailed under the Danish flag, Bente Dorte; the Kaπtela replica of Santa Maria; as well as a gajeta from Rogoznica with its Slovenian crew; and Bella fica from Vis. The weather was not on their side. The rules

were no longer set by fishing masters but rather by a regatta committee which gave the green light only to those whose vessels could sustain sailing the first section, to the town of Vis, in high seas and rather stormy weather conditions. The section winner was the crew of the Murter leut, Jaruh, led by captain Æeljko Jerat. The Vis to Komiæa section was won by the Tribunj gajeta Dumina, led by the first Croatian cross-Atlantic sailor ©ime StipaniËev. He had participated in the regatta for solo sailors Transat 97 and sailed solo across the Atlantic in a 6.5 meter mini. And there he was sailing the Palagruzona route! And then came the morning of the final regatta, the truly historical sail from Komiæa to Palagruæa. All the gods of the sea, sky and land had to give their blessings for the race to take place: it is 42 miles from Komiæa to Palagruæa and it takes a combination of good karma and favourable conditions for the boats to safely cast off, navigate the race and return to the harbour in Komiæa. How long did it take the famous Komiæa fishermen to navigate that long and arduous route? Who knows? Their successors, those who reached the destination first, and that was the falkuπa Comesa-Lisboa, sailed seven hours to Palagruæa. They were closely followed by the second falkuπa, Mikula, as well as the other participants in the regatta. For safety reasons and for the benefit of all those who wanted to have firsthand experience of the truly historical moment when the wonderful and great tradition experienced its revival, the regatta had its own escorts: not the galley of Komiæa, but the modern ship Palagruæa, and the new Croatian sailing school boat Kraljica mora. For the latter, that was the first time it anchored by the mythical Diomed’s island. And when the sea calmed down and night fell, in the light of a full moon, torches and fires were lit on the beach, just like in the past. Hard-working Komiæa activists arranged their barbecue grills and big pots steaming with brodetto, buzara and other local delicacies. The festivities continued late into the night. Some celebrated in their own way, laying on the remote shores, which are such a distant dream for many; their eyes gazing at the stars whose light never shines so bright on the mainland. We left Palagruæa in the morning, a mesmerizing island with capers in full bloom. We left the island to its silence and to the shadows of those who had accosted on its shores for centuries before us, those who lived from the gifts of the sea; finally, we left it to those who deserve the gratitude of their descendants for keeping this island part of their homeland. n


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»

ovjek je nerazuman, nelogiËan i sebiËan. Nije vaæno, voli ga! Dobro koje Ëiniπ, sutra Êe biti zaboravljeno. Nije vaæno, Ëini dobro! Poπtenje i iskrenost uËinit Êe te ranjivim. Nije vaæno, budi iskren i poπten!… Dok se pribliæavate spomen-kuÊi Majke Tereze u srediπtu Skoplja, morate se prisjetiti ovih dijelova njezine poznate molitve Bogu posveÊene ljubavi, nesebiËnosti i predanosti bliænjemu. Razigrana zgrada skromnih dimenzija, ali raskoπnih oblika, spoj suvremene i tradicionalne arhitekture makedonskog majstora Vangela Boæinoskog, odnedavna je mjesto hodoËaπÊa poklonika Ëasne sestre blaæenice, nobelovke, dobrog duha Kalkute i osnivaËice druæbe Sestara misionarki ljubavi, posveÊene siromaπnima, bolesnima i umiruÊima. Graani Skoplja osobito su ponosni na to πto je Majka Tereza, pravim imenom Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu, roena 1910. u njihovu gradu, te su otvaranjem memorijalnog centra 2009. godine najavili stotu obljetnicu njezina roenja i sedmu godiπnjicu otkako ju je papa Ivan Pavao II proglasio blaæenom. Iz Kalkute u Skoplje prenesene su njezine moÊi, a spomen-kuÊa sagraena je na temeljima katoliËke crkve Presvetog Srca Isusova, u kojoj je redovnica krπtena. U meuvremenu, crkva je izbrisana u straπnom potresu 1963. godine. Ono πto si godinama stvarao, u Ëasu bi moglo biti razruπeno. Nije vaæno, stvaraj! … ponavljala bi Majka Tereza u svojoj molitvi, a te su rijeËi osobito dramatiËno i bolno istinito odjekivale u njezinu rodnom gradu toga kobnog 27. srpnja 1963. godine. U memoriji Skoplja taj Êe dan zauvijek ostati zapisan kao najdulji u nemirnoj povijesti makedonske prijestolnice. U konzerviranim ruπevinama staroga

NA©A ODREDI©TA OUR DESTINATIONS ■

Tekst/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotografije/Photos Saπa PjaniÊ

Skoplje je eklektiËna mjeπavina krπÊanske i islamske kulture, suvremenosti i tradicije, socijalistiËkog betona i otomanskog kamena. Tim nemirnim sjeciπtem trgovaËkih putova, kultura i religija, prolazio je i Napoleon na putu za Srednji istok. Grad je postao srediπte manufakture tog dijela Balkana, a nakon Prvoga svjetskog rata, na desnoj strani Vardara, niknulo je suvremeno Skoplje. Skopje is an eclectic mix of Christian and Islamic cultures, a combination of modernity and tradition, of socialist concrete and Ottoman stone. Napoleon himself chose the trade route through Skopje, a melting pot of cultures and religions, on his travel to the Middle East. The city became the centre of manufacture for that part of the Balkans, and modern Skopje sprung up on the right bank of the Vardar after World War I.

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æeljezniËkog kolodvora sagraenoga 1941., danaπnjemu Muzeju grada Skoplja, gradski je sat zaustavljen u 5 sati i 17 minuta, kad su dva snaæna i nekoliko manjih potresa grad pretvorili u ruπevine. Minulih stoljeÊa Skoplje je iskusilo i potrese i poæare, ali ovo je bilo najgore. U jednom trenu uniπteno je osamdeset posto gradske jezgre, poginulo je viπe od tisuÊu graana, 120.000 ostalo ih je bez krova nad glavom, a mnogi kulturni spomenici teπko su oπteÊeni ili sravnjeni sa zemljom. SreÊom, velik dio grada iz turskih vremena nije uniπten, ali zato su nestale gotovo sve neoklasicistiËke graevine iz 18. i 19. stoljeÊa, meu njima Narodno kazaliπte i mnoge upravne zgrade, kao i velik dio srednjovjekovne utvrde Kale. Bilo je to vrijeme kad se grad joπ oporavljao od poplave, jer godinu se dana prije izlila rijeka Vardar. Skopljani i danas svoju povijest dijele na onu prije i poslije potresa. Pa ipak, dignuli su glave i krenuli dalje, kao mnogo puta prije u burnoj povijesti tih prostora, ali ovaj put uz meunarodnu pomoÊ i ohrabrenje institucija Ujedinjenih naroda. Danaπnji makedonski glavni grad s otprilike πest stotina tisuÊa stanovnika u πirem podruËju grada, izdizao se poput feniksa na ruπevinama staroga, a u njegovoj rekonstrukciji pomagali su mnogi arhitekti i struËnjaci za urbanizam svjetskoga glasa. Jedan od njih bio je i japanski struËnjak za urbano planiranje, Kenzo Tange, autor urbanistiËkog plana Hiroπime. Srediπtu grada prepustio je visoke zgrade, a πiroka obala Vardara pretvorena je u πetaliπte. Premda su obnovljeni i podignuti brojni javni i stambeni objekti, mnogi gradski simboli nikad nisu ponovno sagraeni, Ëime je Skoplje izgubilo znaËajan dio svoje prepoznatljivosti. Ipak, na obnovljenim objektima nastojala su se zadræati raspoznatljiva obiljeæja originalne arhitekture, poput staroga trgovaËkog centra (»arπije), a unatrag nekoliko godina pokrenute su akcije da se neke zgrade obnove i gradu vrati nekadaπnji izgled. Ponovno je sagraena katedrala svete Bogorodice iz 19. stoljeÊa, a u planu je obnova razorenoga velebnog kazaliπta. Dugo nakon potresa, u gradu su se mogle vidjeti autoprikolice, pretvorene u privremene domove za one koji su ih izgubili u potresu, a odmah pokraj njih nicali su neki od najavangardnijih primjera suvremene arhitekture. Jedan od njih je i zdanje Glavne poπte Janka Konstantinova, arhitekta s radnim iskustvom u Finskoj, ©vedskoj i SAD-u. Poput betonskoga svemirskog broda iz neke od maπtovitih epizoda Zvjezdanih staza ili poput golema kukca izvrnuta na lea, glavna se zgrada spustila ravno u srce grada, a mnogi su je smatrali jednim od najsmjelijih arhitektonskih rjeπenja onoga doba u Europi.

Skoplje je eklektiËna mjeπavina krπÊanske i islamske kulture, socijalistiËkog betona i otomanskog kamena. Tijekom radnog dana, kad se u njega sliju zaposleni iz okolnih mjesta, ima gotovo milijun duπa, polovinu stanovniπtva Makedonije. Pa ipak, æivot ovdje teËe mirnijim tempom nego u velikim europskim prijestolnicama, ljudi joπ ujutro u kavanama igraju πah, a ispred McDonaldsa katkad joπ moæete vidjeti kola s konjskom zapregom. U njegovim restoranima moæete kuπati sve ono najbolje od makedonske kuhinje, te Ëudesne mjeπavine turskih, grËkih i bliskoistoËnih okusa. Ovdje je ajvar najbolji na svijetu, na Zelen pazaru moæete naÊi bezbroj vrsta mesnatih, soËnih paprika, a pazar je ljeti doslovno zatrpan planinama lubenica. Jedini je to grad u Europi koji ima opÊinu zvanu Aerodrom i jedini europski grad u kojemu Romi imaju svoju opÊinu ∑ ©uto Orizari. Rimljani su iza sebe ostavili akvedukt, Bizant se ogleda u crkvi sv. Pantelejmona, poznatoj po freskama. Iz doba je Bizanta i tvrava Kale, iznikla na temeljima starima 1500 godina, a dograivana kako bi stigao koji osvajaË. Podno nje nalazi se stari, orijentalni dio grada s Ëarπijom, bezistanima (natkrivenim trgovima s malim trgovaËkim i zanatskim radionicama), dæamijama, hanovima (prenoÊiπtima putnika i karavana) i hamamima (kupaliπtima). S minareta nad »arπijom i danas se Ëuju pozivi na molitvu, æivo podsjeÊajuÊi na multikulturalnu proπlost. Predloæen za listu Unesca, taj je dio grada jedan od najbolje saËuvanih primjera urbane otomanske arhitekture na Balkanu. Stoga mnogi kaæu da su uske kamene uliËice i male trgovine pretrpane filigranom i zlatnim nakitom, kujundæijskim suvenirima od bakra, majstorski izrezbarenim drvenim sitnicama i tradicionalnim Êilimima, iznad kojih se diæu niska æivopisna proËelja, ono najljepπe πto su Turci ostavili Skoplju nakon pet stoljeÊa vladavine. A iza sebe ostavili su najveÊi bazar (ili pazar) na Balkanu, kao æivo podsjeÊanje na minula stoljeÊa tijekom kojih je grad izrastao na strateπki vaænome poloæaju u srediπnjem dijelu Balkanskog poluotoka, nedaleko od glavne prometnice koja zapadnu Europu preko Beograda povezuje sa Solunom i Atenom. Nalazi se u uskoj dolini rijeke Vardar, koju zatvaraju planine Skopska Crna Gora na sjeveru i Vodno na jugu. U antiËko doba tu su rimski legionari osnovali naselje Scupi. Cvalo je u doba Rimljana i postalo vaæno religijsko srediπte s vlastitom biskupijom, no snaæan potres 518. godine sravnio ga je sa zemljom. Na ostacima naselja u Skopljanskoj je dolini niknula nova gradska jezgra, Justinijana Prima, a zatim su doπli Slaveni i nazvali ga danaπnjim imenom. U nadolazeÊim stoljeÊima kroz njega su proπli mnogi osvajaËi, od Bugara i Bizantinaca, do

Srba i Turaka, koji su od 1392. gospodarili punih pet stoljeÊa. Do 1453. godine bio je prijestolnica turskih sultana, a u tom je razdoblju sagraen i elegantni kameni most preko Vardara, Dautpaπino kupaliπte (danas Nacionalna galerija umjetnosti), dæamija Mustafa-paπe, sultan Muratova dæamija, Sahat-kula… Neπto poslije, u 17. stoljeÊu, niknula je i crkva svetog Spasa, ali napola zakopana u zemlji, zbog turskog zakona po kojemu crkve nisu smjele nadvisivati dæamije. Mnogo poslije, u 19. stoljeÊu, obogaÊena je ikonostasima izrezbarenima u orahovini, djelom poznatih majstora Debarske drvorezbarske πkole. Grad se brzo razvijao u vaæno obrtniËko i trgovaËko srediπte, a njegovu jedinstvenu privlaËnost turski pisac Dilger Zede joπ u 17. stoljeÊu opisuje laskavim rijeËima: Dugo putovah zemljom Rumelijom, vidjevπi mnogo lijepih gradova u kojima me oËaraπe blagoslovi Alaha, ali niti jedan me se ne dojmiπe i ne raznjeæiπe toliko kao boæanstveni grad Skoplje, kroz koji prolazi biserna rijeka Vardar. Ali grad nije zadugo blistao ljepotom. Ispred njegovih vrata 25. listopada 1689. zaustavio se general Enea Silvio Piccolomini s austrijskom vojskom, u pohodu na Kosovo, Bosnu i Makedoniju. Car Leopold I. Habsburπki æelio je Turcima preoteti taj dio Balkana, kao odmazdu zbog opsade BeËa πest godina prije, a izvrπitelj je bio Piccolomini. Spalit Êu grad, rekao je. Odluka nije laka, ali pretvorit Êu ga u pepeo da ga ne koristi neprijatelj. I bi tako. S obronaka planine Vodno general je promatrao buktinju, lamentirajuÊi: Æao mi zgrada i dæamija sagraenih od najfinijeg mramora, ukraπenih s tisuÊu svjetiljki na pozlaÊenim svijeÊnjacima, kojima bi se ponosio i sam Rim. Æao mi je starina, vrtova i trgova. Vatra je harala dva dana, a kad je posustala, na zgariπtu su ostale tek kamene zgrade, sve ostalo pretvoreno je u prah i pepeo. Neki izvori tvrde da se na neronovski potez Piccolomini zapravo odluËio ne bi li zaustavio epidemiju sablasne kuge. Bilo kako bilo, general se u Skoplju i sam zarazio smrtonosnom boleπÊu i umro u trenutku vojnog trijumfa. Osveta grada? Grad se oporavljao sve do polovine devetnaestog stoljeÊa, kad je ponovno zasjao kao vaæno srediπte trgovine. Tim nemirnim sjeciπtem trgovaËkih putova, kultura i religija, prolazio je i Napoleon na putu za Srednji istok. U gradskim hanovima noÊili su mnogobrojni trgovci s beskonaËnim karavanama krcatima najraznovrsnijom robom na putu za europska træiπta. Grad je postao srediπte manufakture tog dijela Balkana, a nakon Prvoga svjetskog rata, na desnoj strani Vardara niknulo je suvremeno Skoplje. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Na putu za zraËnu luku Aleksandra Velikoga, odnedavna se nalazi i novovjeki han, suvremen i elegantan hotel Aleksandar Palace. Vanjska ËeliËna dizala odaju 21. stoljeÊe, a otvoreni katovi s arkadama podsjeÊaju na stare manastire. Joπ jedan primjer sretnog spoja suvremenosti i tradicije, u gradu naviknulome na razliËite kulture. RazliËite kulture nauËile su Skopljane toleranciji, suæivotu i velikoj ljubaznosti prema strancima, a njihova skruπena nekadaπnja sugraanka Majka Tereza izrazila je to rijeËima: Gledaj da ti nitko ne doe, ako od tebe neÊe otiÊi sretniji i zadovoljniji. n

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eople are often unreasonable and self-centred… Forgive them anyway. The good you do today may be forgotten tomorrow. Do good anyway! Honesty and frankness make you vulnerable. Be honest and frank anyway. As you approach Mother Theresa’s memorial house in the centre of Skopje, you have to remember her famous prayer to God, dedicated to love, selflessness and devotion to fellow human beings. The playful building of modest dimensions grabs your attention with its splendid forms. This combination of modern and traditional architecture, designed by Macedonian architect Vangel Boæinoski, has recently

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become a place of pilgrimage for the followers of the beatified sister, a Nobel Prize winner, the good genie of Calcutta and the founder of the order of the Missionaries of Charity, who devote their lives to the poor, sick, and dying. The citizens of Skoplje are particularly proud of the fact that Mother Theresa was born in their city in 1910, as Agnes Gonxha Bojaxhiu. By opening the memorial centre in 2009, they heralded the 100th anniversary of her birth and the seventh anniversary of the year when Pope John Paul II beatified her. Her relics were transferred from Calcutta to Skopje, and a memorial house was erected on the location of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Roman Catholic Church, where Mother Teresa was baptized. The church was razed to the ground by a terrible earthquake in 1963. What you spend years building may be destroyed overnight. Build anyway. These words, often repeated in her prayer, assumed a particularly dramatic and painfully truthful tone in her birthplace on the fateful day of 27th July 1963. This date will always be remembered in the collective memory of Skopje as the longest day in the troubled history of the Macedonian capital. That day, the wall clock in the conserved remains of the old railway station, which was built in 1941 and currently


houses the City Museum of Skopje, stopped at 5:17, when two mighty earthquakes and several less powerful shocks crushed the city. Skopje had experienced earthquakes and fires before, but none as bad as that one. Eighty per cent of the city was destroyed in a matter of minutes; the death toll was over one thousand; 120,000 people were left homeless; many cultural monuments were either badly damaged or levelled to the ground. Fortunately, a large part of the city dating back to the Turkish times was left unscathed, but nearly all the neo-classical buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries, including the National Theatre and many administrative buildings, disappeared, as did the medieval fortress Kale. At the time, the city was still recovering from another natural disaster ∑ the Vardar River had flooded the area just a year before. The citizens of Skopje still divide their history into years before and after the earthquake. Nevertheless, they have held their heads high and moved on, as they had done many times before during the tumultuous history of the region. Unlike previous times, they received international aid and the encouragement of United Nations agencies in the aftermath of the 1963 earthquake. Skopje as it stands

today, with approximately six hundred thousand inhabitants in the larger city area, has risen like a phoenix out of the rubble. Many world-renowned architects and city-planning experts helped with the reconstruction, including a Japanese expert in urban design, Kenzo Tange, the author of the plan of new Hiroshima. He ceded the city centre to high rise buildings while transforming the wide banks of the Vardar into a promenade. Although many public and residential buildings have been reconstructed or built anew, many symbols of the city have not been restored. As a result, Skopje has lost much of its authentic look despite the fact that no effort has been spared to preserve the recognizable features of the original architecture on every reconstructed building, like the old commercial centre (Carsi). Over the past few years, an initiative has been launched to reconstruct a few more buildings to give the city its former appearance. The 19th century Cathedral of Our Lady has been reconstructed, and plans are in place to rebuild the magnificent theatre. Trailers, which were parked all over the city and provided temporary housing for those who had become homeless in the earthquake, coexisted for a long time with some of the most avant-garde examples CROATIA AIRLINES

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of modern architecture that were being developed literally on the doorsteps of those provisional dwellings. One such new development was the main Post Office building, designed by Janko Konstantinov, an architect who had worked in Finland, Sweden and the USA. The building stands right in the centre of the city like a concrete space ship from an episode of Star Trek or like a big bug on its back. Many consider it one of the most daring architectural designs of its time in Europe. Skopje is an eclectic mix of Christian and Islamic cultures, a combination of socialist concrete and Ottoman stone. On a working day, when commuters pour into the city from the suburbs, the city swells to nearly a million people, half the total population of the state. However, the pace of life is much slower here then in other large European capitals; people still play their morning games of chess in cafés; a horse-drawn cart parked in front of McDonalds is not a rare sight. Local restaurants offer the best of Macedonian cuisine, a wonderful combination of Turkish, Greek and Middle Eastern flavours. You cannot find a better ajvar (a local relish) anywhere in the world; the green market offers a truly remarkable choice of juicy and meaty green peppers; in summertime, the market is swamped with what looks like mountains of watermelons. Skopje is the only city in Europe with a municipality named Airport, and the only one where the Roma ethnic group has its own municipality ∑ ©uto Orizari. The ancient Romans left an aqueduct; the Byzantine influence is seen in the church of St. Panteleimon, famous for its frescoes. The Kale fortress also dates from the Byzantine period, with its foundations built 1500 years ago, and it was added to as each new conqueror arrived. Nestled at its foot is the old, oriental part of the city with a carsi (bazaar), bezistans (covered squares with small shops and workshops), mosques, hans or caravansaries (which offered accommodation to travellers and caravans) and hamams (Turkish baths). Prayer calls still resound from slender mosque minarets which tower above the Carsi and remind everybody of the city’s multicultural past. A candidate for the UNESCO’s World Heritage List, this part of the city is one of the best preserved examples of urban Ottoman architecture in the Balkans. That is why many believe that the narrow cobbled alleys and the small shops crammed with filigree and golden jewellery, brass handicraft, delicately carved wooden trinkets and traditional kelims, with low colourful façades, are the most beautiful legacy that the Turks left to Skopje after a five-century rule. Another thing they left behind is the biggest bazaar in the Balkans, a living 116

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memory to centuries past during which the city developed at this strategically important position in the central part of the Balkan Peninsula, close to the main route which connected Western Europe with Thessaloniki and Athens via Belgrade. The city is located in the Vardar valley, flanked by Skopska Crna Gora to the north and Vodno to the south. In ancient times, the Scupi settlement founded by Roman legionnaires flourished and became an important religious centre with its own diocese. A powerful earthquake reduced it to rubble in 518. A new urban nucleus, Justiniana Prima, sprung up on the remains of the settlement in the Skoplje valley. When the Slavs came, they gave it its present name. Many conquerors passed through the area in the forthcoming centuries: Bulgarians, Byzantines, Serbs, and finally Turks, whose rule lasted for as long as five centuries from 1392. Until 1453, the city was the seat of Turkish sultans. Many important landmarks were built during that period: an elegant stone bridge spanning the Vardar; Daud-Pasha baths (now a modern art gallery); the Mustafa Pasha Mosque; the Sultan Murat Mosque; the Clock Tower… Sometime later, in the 17th century, the church of St. Spas was built, half buried in the ground due to Turkish regulations according to which no church was allowed to be higher than the mosques. Much later, in the 19th century, the church was given an iconostasis (altar) carved out of walnut by the famous masters of the Debar woodcarving school. The city developed rapidly and became an important centre of crafts and commerce. In the 17th century, Turkish writer Dilger Zede described its unique allure by the following flattering words:: I travelled for a long time across the country of Roumelia and I saw many beautiful cities where I was overwhelmed by Allah’s blessings, but not one impressed and delighted me as much as that divine city - Skopje, through which the pearly river Vardar flows. But the city did not prosper for long. On 25 October 1689, General Enea Silvio Piccolomini stopped at its gates with the Austrian army in a campaign against Kosovo, Bosnia and Macedonia. Emperor Leopold I Habsburg had had his heart set on taking that part of the Balkans from the Turks in retaliation for the long siege of Vienna six years before. Piccolomini was to carry out this wish. I shall burn the city, he said. The decision is by no means easy, but I shall turn it into ashes so that the enemy cannot use it. And that is how it was. From the slopes of Vodno mountain, the general watched the city in flames and lamented:

I feel sorry for the buildings and mosques built from the finest marble, decorated with the thousands lights of gilded candlesticks that even Rome would not be ashamed of. I feel sorry for the antiques, gardens and squares. The conflagration raged for two whole days. When it subsided, nothing remained but stone buildings. Everything else was turned into ashes and dust. According to some sources, Piccolomini had chosen Emperor Nero’s approach in order to prevent the spread of the plague. Be that as it may, the General himself contracted the lethal disease in Skopje and died at the moment of his military triumph. Was that the city’s revenge? The recovery process lasted until the mid-19th century, when the city came to the fore once again as an important centre of commerce. Napoleon himself chose the trade route through Skopje, a melting pot of cultures and religions, on his travel to the Middle East. Numerous tradesmen stayed in the city’s caravanserais while their long caravans rested under the heavy loads of various goods destined for European markets. The city became the centre of manufacture for that part of the Balkans, and modern Skopje sprung up on the right bank of the Vardar after World War I. As of recently, a modern-day caravansary can be found on the road to Alexander the Great airport, a contemporary and elegant Aleksandar Palace Hotel. Stainless steel elevators on the exterior of the building exude the air of the 21st century, while the arcades on all floors conjure up the image of old monasteries ∑ yet another example of the happy marriage between modernity and tradition in a city accustomed to different cultures. Different cultures have taught the citizens of Skopje tolerance, coexistence and great kindness towards strangers. Their humble former fellow citizen, Mother Theresa, expressed this in the following words: Let no-one ever come to you without leaving better and happier. n


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KULTURA CULTURE ■

Interdisciplinarnim znanstvenim pristupom hrvatski su akademici i znanstvenici dokazali temeljnu tezu hrvatske povijesti i kulture, tj. da je Hrvatska punih 13 stoljeÊa sastavni dio Europe, prije svega srednje i mediteranske, te da je u njezinu sklopu uspjela, kao malo koja druga dræava, saËuvati kontinuitet svoga nacionalnog biÊa. Using an interdisciplinary scientific approach, Croatian academicians and scientists have proven the basic hypothesis of Croatian history and culture that, for 13 centuries, Croatia has been a constituent part of Europe, primarily Central and Mediterranean, and that, as such, has managed to preserve the continuity of its national identity as only a few other states have.

Tekst/By Anelka MustapiÊ

Fotografije/Photos Arhiva ©kolske knjige

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r vatska i Europa: knjiæevnost, znanost i umjetnost jedno je od najmonumentalnijih znanstvenoistraæivaËkih i nakladniËkih pothvata, ne samo Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti i njezina sunakladnika ©kolske knjige, hrvatskoga nakladniËkoga gorostasa s teæiπtem upravo na nacionalnom programu, nego i uopÊe s podruËja hrvatske povijesti, politike, kulture, znanosti i umjetnosti, kojima je posveÊeno. Nastalo je na poticaj akademika Ivana SupiËiÊa, koji je u poËetku devedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa predloæio Akademiji taj europski projekt. Hrvatska je akademija, svakako, najpozvanija institucija za takav projekt CROATIA AIRLINES

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jer je - iako daleko od buke medija i svijesti javnosti - najveÊi znanstveni nakladnik u zemlji i jer od osnutka vodi i pokreÊe velike edicije iz hrvatske povijesti, jezika, povijesti knjiæevnosti i prirodoslovlja, bez kojih bi suvremena hrvatska kultura i znanost bili nezamislivi. Prvi svezak Srednji vijek (VII.-XII. st.) objavljen je 1998., s tim πto su veÊ i do tada trajale opseæne pripreme i veliki znanstveni rad stotinjak eksperata, akademika, znanstvenika i vrsnih struËnjaka za pojedina podruËja, a u proteklih dvanaest godina slijedila su joπ tri sveska: Srednji vijek i renesansa (XIII.-XVI. st.), Barok i prosvjetiteljstvo (XVII.-XVIII. st.) i upravo objavljena Moderna hrvatska kultura (XIX.st.). NajoptimistiËnije su nade da Êe peti, posljednji svezak Suvremena hrvatska kultura (XX.st.) biti objavljen 2011., kad Êe se obiljeæiti 150-godiπnjica Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti. Glavni urednik prvih triju svezaka enciklopedijskog formata (svaki sadræava barem 1500 stranica, ukraπenih vrhunskim fotografijama povijesnih dokumenata i spomenika) bio je akademik Ivan SupiËiÊ, a ureivanje Ëetvrtoga i petog sveska povjereno je akademiku Mislavu JeæiÊu, redovitomu profesoru zagrebaËkoga Filozofskog fakulteta. Vrijeme za takvo grandiozno djelo bilo je osobito nepovoljno, kako je naglasio u uvodu akademik SupiËiÊ, zbog Domovinskoga rata i poraÊa. Ali, opet, kako kaæe, bez novosteËene hrvatske slobode, suverenosti i neovisnosti to bi petoknjiæje bilo nezamislivo. Interdisciplinarnim znanstvenim pristupom dokazana je glavna teza djela Hrvatska i Europa: Hrvatska je punih trinaest stoljeÊa bila sastavni dio Europe, prije svega srednje i mediteranske, ali u njezinu je sklopu uspjela, kao malo koja druga dræava, saËuvati kontinuitet svojega nacionalnog identiteta i svoje dræavnosti. Sve do prve Jugoslavije (1918.-1941.), navodi akademik JeæiÊ, Hrvatska je, i nakon izumrÊa domaÊe loze TrpimiroviÊa, dok su njome vladali mnogi strani vladari - ArpadoviÊi, Anæuvinci, Luksemburπci, JagjeloviÊi pa Ëetiri stoljeÊa Habsburgovci, sve do raspada Austro-Ugarske Monarhije ∑ saËuvala atribute dræavnosti, svoja iura et privilegia regni, parlament i svoga potkralja ili, kao su ga Hrvati zvali, bana. Stoga nije ni Ëudno πto je u predgovoru engleskome i francuskom izdanju prvog sveska Europa i Hrvatska zapisao Jacques Le Goff, jedan od najveÊih svjetskih medievista: Ne sumnjam da Êe Ëitatelji ovoga djela u njemu naÊi odluËne razloge da iskaæu danaπnjem hrvatskom narodu s onu stranu nesreÊa naπega tragiËnoga stoljeÊa (XX., op. A.M.) svoje divljenje, svoje prijateljstvo i svoj æar,

pomaæuÊi mu da se prizna njegovo viπe no tisuÊljetno mjesto u europskoj cjelini. Meu ostalim, neosporni se svjetski autoritet Le Goff nije ustruËavao priznati da Êe ova osobita edicija Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti i ©kolske knjige uËiniti da se zbog svoga neznanja crvene mnogi njezini francuski Ëitatelji, ja prvi! Fascinantno je to πto je Hrvatska, a to je osobito isticao pokojni akademik Ivan Supek, koji je bio na Ëelu Akademije kad se projekt pripremao, i u tim ranim slavnim vremenima prihvatila i æivjela moralne vrijednosti i duhovnost tadaπnjeg zapadnoeuropskog kulturnog kruga. RijeË je o ambicioznome europskom projektu jer Hrvatska i Europa nije namijenjena samo domaÊoj javnosti, nego - jer prevodi se na engleski i francuski, a razmiπlja se i o prijevodima na njemaËki i talijanski jezik - moæda joπ viπe europskim i svjetskim znanstvenicima, sveuËiliπtima, institutima, politiËarima, dræavnicima, javnim radnicima, umjetnicima, i uopÊe intelektualcima. Kako kaæe akademik JeæiÊ: Osim hrvatskoga interesa, vrijedi predstaviti hrvatsku povijest, znanost i kulturu meunarodnoj javnosti i stoga πto se neki vidovi europske i svjetske povijesti mogu bolje sagledati iz perspektive zemlje koja je vjeËito bila na granici velikih carstava i velikih duhovnih sfera, a takva je bila Hrvatska, nego kada se gledaju samo iz velikih srediπta. A kakva je hrvatska povijest kad se utvruje u tzv. europskom kontekstu? U poËetku 7. st., iz pisma pape Grgura I. salonitanskom biskupu Maksimu, doznajemo da su Slaveni (prvi pisani spomen o njima, s tim πto su meu Slavenima Hrvati rano posvjedoËili svijest o svojem imenu, nap. aut.), zajedno s Avarima, prodrli u Dalmaciju i oko 615. razorili Salonu, glavni grad rimske provincije Dalmacije. U strahu pred doπljacima, Romani su pobjegli na otoke (©oltu, BraË, Hvar, Vis), a vratili su se svojim kuÊama tek kad su se Slaveni, tj. Hrvati, pozicionirali u zaleu gradova. Dva su naroda ipak bila osuena na ekonomsku i kulturnu simbiozu. Utjecaj Romana na susjede Hrvate potvruje i proces vrlo rane kristijanizacije. Materijalni je dokaz za to dragocjena krstionica kneza Viπeslava, s kraja 8. ili poËetka 9. st., kako se pretpostavlja. Taj krsni zdenac Hrvata, isklesan u mramoru, πesterostraniËnoga oblika, nalazio se u baptisteriju crkve u Ninu, gradu u kojemu je bila najstarija hrvatska biskupija izvan podruËja bizantskih gradova, a gdje se inaËe nalazi i crkva sv. Kriæa iz 9. st., koja se naziva najmanjom katedralom na svijetu. Na rubu krstionice urezan je latinski tekst, Ëiji prijevod glasi:

Ovo vrelo (izvor) prima nemoÊne da ih prosvijetli. Ovdje se Ëiste od svojih zloËina πto ih primiπe od prvog roditelja da postanu krπÊani spasonosno ispovijedajuÊi vjeËno Trojstvo. Ovo djelo vjeπto napravi sveÊenik Ivan u vrijeme kneza Viπeslava, iz poboænosti pak u Ëast svetog Ivana Krstitelja da posreduje za nj i njegova πtiÊenika. U 9. st., kad su Hrvati primali velike franaËke, romanske i bizantske utjecaje, Hrvatska je bila podijeljena na dvije kneæevine: Panonsku i Dalmatinsku, s tim πto je Dalmacija imala veliku ulogu u ujedinjenju Hrvatske za vrijeme vladavine kralja Tomislava. Osim natpisa u kamenu, imamo i neke dokumente iz vremena narodnih vladara (od 9. do 11. st.), Ëesto darovnice kneæeva i kraljeva. Ali, postavlja se u znanosti pitanje njihove autentiËnosti, jer nisu pronaeni u zapisima iz 9. i 10. st., nego su zapisani poslije, moæda prema pamÊenju zaduæenih svjedoka, i mogli bi odraæavati neke interese iz vremena zapisa. No i takvi su dokumenti, kaæe akademik JeæiÊ, vrlo bitni jer iz njih mogu se iπËitati odnosi hrvatskih vladara i dalmatinskih gradova koji su bili dio bizantske Dalmacije, odnosi izmeu vladara i Crkve, obrazovanost vladara i njihova kruga. »ini se da je primjerenije pitanje u Ëemu su autentiËni, jer, recimo, nitko ne bi, nakon vremena kralja Zvonimira, unutar latinskoga teksta, falsificirao imena sluæbi hrvatskih dvorana i dostojanstvenika na hrvatskom jeziku, kao πto su: vinotoË, ubrusar, posteljnik, πtitonoπa, volar, æupan itd. Naime, u vrijeme zapisa takvi nazivi viπe se nisu rabili. Dakako, da bi se to tako proËitalo, potrebno je historijsko, ali i filoloπko znanje. - Nadalje - naglasio je akademik JeæiÊ - iako je na hrvatskom dvoru sluæbeni jezik bio latinski kao jezik meunarodne komunikacije i Crkve, zanimljivo je da je hrvatska aristokracija na dvoru za narodnih vladara, uz latinski, sluæbeno govorila i hrvatski. Hrvati su, prihvativπi latinski, saËuvali i svoju jeziËnu osobitost, za razliku, recimo, od Franaka koji su izgubili svoj jezik i prihvatili vulgarni latinski. Hrvatska je rano doπla do povijesne vidljivosti zahvaljujuÊi Bizantskom i FranaËkom Carstvu i rimskomu papi. To su tri velike povijesnokulturne cjeline koje biljeæe svoju povijest i obavjeπÊuju o njoj, o svojim narodima, a meu njima bili su i Hrvati. Na temelju toga πto se Hrvatska naπla kulturno na granici europskoga Zapada, a zemljopisno na rubu srednje Europe, znamo razmjerno mnogo o hrvatskoj srednjovjekovnoj povijesti. Od 9. st., kad su Hrvatima glagoljicu donijeli uËenici sv. ∆irila i Metodija, ona je prihvaÊena kao pismo zajedno sa staroslovjenskim jezikom, koji je vrlo brzo primio elemente tzv. hrvatske redakcije i hrvatskih narjeËja, πto se vidi CROATIA AIRLINES

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veÊ i na BaπËanskoj ploËi. Moæemo reÊi da je hrvatski jezik utemeljen na staroslovjenskome modelu najstariji hrvatski knjiæevni jezik i da su Hrvati predstavljali veliku specifiËnost unutar RimokatoliËke crkve, jer bili su jedini narod koji je od papa dobio pravo sluæiti liturgiju i na svom jeziku - zapravo staroslovjenskome, ali razumljivome narodu. U europskome se kontekstu moæe razumjeti i to kako su Hrvati koji su bili glagoljaπki obrazovani i znali grËki jezik mogli od 12. stoljeÊa zapisivati dio dokumenata na Êirilici, jer Êirilica jednostavno znaËi grËko pismo koje im je bilo blisko kao i drugim Slavenima pod bizantskim utjecajem. Isto je tako latinica rimsko pismo πto su ga Hrvati, koji su se sluæili latinskim u Crkvi i javnome æivotu, neπto poslije, od 14. stoljeÊa, veÊinom prihvatili i za vlastiti jezik. U hrvatskoj se kulturi oËito odraæava to da se prostire najveÊim dijelom obale izmeu Italije i GrËke. Jedan od najreprezentativnijih spomenika hrvatske pismenosti glagoljaπki je Misal po zakonu rimskoga dvora, prva hrvatska knjiga, prvotisak - editio princeps - tiskana 1483., samo 28 godina poslije Gutenbergove Biblije, i odmah posve specifiËno hrvatska! Nitko drugi nije viπe Ëuvao glagoljaπku tradiciju. To je i prvi misal u Europi, koji nije tiskan latinicom. Iz rane hrvatske povijesti akademik JeæiÊ istiËe vaæne podatke: - U vrijeme Splitskog sabora 925., kad je za kralja izabran Tomislav, obnovljene su antiËke dioceze u Dalmaciji, ali ona je s cijelom Hrvatskom napokon pripala zapadnomu, rimokatoliËkom krugu. Do tada su dalmatinski gradovi pripadali u sferu tada najkulturnije sile, a to je bio Bizant, kao i svi gradovi na Jadranu do Venecije i Ravenne. Venecija je nastala kao kulturno-bizantski grad, πto se vidi veÊ i po crkvi sv. Marka, koja ne pripada zapadnoj umjetnosti, nego bizantskoj u svome najljepπem dijelu. Osvojenje Carigrada u 4. kriæarskome ratu, πto ga je organizirala Venecija, bilo je neka vrsta metricida, majkoubojstva, koje je Veneciji omoguÊilo pretenzije na nekadaπnje bizantske posjede. Venecija je i poslije bila talijansko-hrvatsko-grËka dræava, a ne jednostavno talijanski grad, a to se redovito ne razumije. U vezi s tim mnogo se toga iz hrvatske povijesti Ëesto ne razumije. Teπko je reÊi koje su hrvatske ideje utjecale na Europu, ali moæe se reÊi koji su hrvatski mislioci ili znanstvenici ostavili duboke tragove u europskoj kulturnoj baπtini. Jer, Hrvatska je u svim razdobljima, i kad su prilike u njoj bile teπke i skuËene, imala velikih ljudi, naglasio je akademik Mislav JeæiÊ, izdvajajuÊi tek pokoji primjer: - U 12. st. pojavljuje se Herman Dalmatin, hrvatski filozof i znanstvenik iz Istre, koji je

meu prvima unosio elemente aristotelizma u filozofiju u vrijeme kad je prevladavala platonistiËka filozofija. Uz to, bio je jedan od prvih prevoditelja arapskih filozofskih i astronomskih djela na latinski, prevodio je Ëak i Kuran, sve u kontekstu kulturnih pothvata tadaπnjega opata od Clunyja, a za te je potrebe, Ëini se, proputovao ©panjolskom i bliskoistoËnim zemljama. Majstor Radovan (13.st.), kipar i arhitekt, stvorio je remekdjelo, toËnije reËeno - vrhunsku romaniËku skulpturu, glavni portal trogirske katedrale. U 15. st. Juraj Dalmatinac, kipar i graditelj, veÊ afirmiran u Italiji, dolazi na poziv u ©ibenik graditi jedinstvenu katedralu u toskanskome renesansnom stilu s elementima venecijanske gotike. U istom 15. st. Juraj DragiπiÊ (Georgius Benignus), rodom iz Srebrenice, bjeæi pred Osmanlijama u Dubrovnik i postaje franjevcem. Zatim studira teologiju u Ferrari i Rimu i na preporuku kardinala Bessariona postaje uËiteljem sina moÊnoga urbinskog vojvode. Postao je i savjetnikom firentinskog vladara Lorenza Medicija i odgojitelj njegovih sinova, Pietra i Giovannija Medicija. Giovanni je poslije postao papa Leon X. i nastojao pokrenuti kriæarski rat za osloboenje krπÊana od Turaka. DragiπiÊ je poznavao Michelangela, Bramantea, Rafaela, papu Julija II. i cara Maksimilijana. Bio je nadbiskup tzv. nazaretske biskupije u Barletti. On je jedan od primjera kako nije samo Europa bila ugraena u Hrvatsku, nego kako su i Hrvati sudjelovali u izgradnji Europe. U viziji istaknutih Hrvata humanista Europa je, prije svega, trebala biti tolerantna. O tome, veÊ u 15. st., razmiπlja Janus Pannonius i u svojim elegijama zapisuje univerzalnu opomenu da se ljudski rod moæe zatrti vlastitim radom, πto je po procjeni pokojnog akademika Ivana Supeka jedinstvena takva slutnja u europskom pjesniπtvu. Hrvatski humanisti Janus Pannonius i Ivan Vitez od Sredne osnivaËi su i najstarijega ugarskoga (i slovaËkoga) sveuËiliπta u Poæunu (Bratislavi) pod imenom Academia Istropolitana 1465. (1467.) godine. U tome nizu, zapravo otvarajuÊi ga πiroko, nalazi se i Marko MaruliÊ, otac hrvatske knjiæevnosti, kako ga je nazvao Ivan KukuljeviÊ. Pisao je na latinskome i hrvatskome, za prvi hrvatski umjetniËki ep Juditu bio je nadahnut biblijskom priËom, ali povezao ju je s aktualnim vremenom, osmanlijskim osvajanjima. Njegovo djelo na latinskom Pouke za dobar æivot po primjerima svetaca (Institutiones bene vivendi per exempla sanctorum) bilo je europska uspjeπnica joπ i u 17. i 18. st., a navodno ga je Franjo Ksaverski nosio na sva putovanja. Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik, hrvatski crkveni reformator, bio je, uz Martina Luthera i Philippa Melanch-

tona, jedan od intelektualnih voa srednjoeuropskoga protestantizma, ali uvijek je znao da je Illyricus, πto je, kako reËe akademik Mislav JeæiÊ, na humanistiËkome latinskome znaËilo - Hrvat. Autor je opseænog djela Magdeburπke centurije (Centuriae Magdeburgienses), zapravo najveÊe i najdokumentiranije povijesti Crkve poslije Euzebijeve iz 4. st. Napisao je oko 140 spisa znaËajnih za crkvenu povijest i hermeneutiku. Akademik JeæiÊ istiËe: - Smislio je filozofsku i filoloπku metodu kako iz samoga teksta Biblije pouzdano tumaËiti Bibliju. Tako je protestantima postalo moguÊe odbaciti crkveno uËiteljstvo. Ta se metoda zove hermeneutika i ona je, s jedne strane, ostala okosnica filoloπke metode u pristupu tekstovima, a, s druge strane, okosnicom i temeljem filozofske hermeneutiËke πkole na koju se neki od vodeÊih filozofa 20. st. pozivaju, kao npr. Hans-Georg Gadamer, koji istiËe Matiju VlaËiÊa Ilirika kao utemeljitelja hermeneutike. - U 12. i 13. stoljeÊu imamo istaknute humaniste i fiziËare: Grisogona, PetriπeviÊa, De Dominisa, BoπkoviÊa. O svakome bi se moglo govoriti naπiroko. Imamo izvrsne pjesnike od LuciÊa i HektoroviÊa, ZoraniÊa i VetranoviÊa, preko GunduliÊa i BuniÊa VuËiÊa, do KaniæliÊa i KatanËiÊa. Mnogo su toga morali sjedinjavati istaknuti predstavnici hrvatske kulture. Andrija KaËiÊ MioπiÊ pjevao je u 18. st. o povijesti naroda Slovinskoga stilom usmenoga pjesniπtva da podigne narodnu samosvijest, a istodobno je na latinskome pisao udæbenike o peripatetiËkoj filozofiji u tradiciji Dunsa Scota. Polihistor Pavao Ritter - VitezoviÊ, koji je pisao uËena latinska djela i pjesme, kao i junaËki spjev Odilenje sigetsko, veÊ je u 17. st. gajio povjesniËarske, politiËke i jezikoslovne ideje, koje Êe tek za 125 godina ostvariti hrvatski narodni preporod. PolitiËki su voe nekad morali imati smjele vizije. Nikola ©krlec LomniËki, veliki æupan zagrebaËki i vrstan pravnik, dao je 1790. hrvatskim izaslanicima na Ugarskom saboru povijesne upute da de iure prihvate zajedniËku ugarsku vladu koja de facto veÊ postoji kraljevskom uredbom, i na Ëemu Maari inzistiraju, ali uz uvjet da se zakljuËci formiraju ovako: da Êe Hrvatska priznavati zajedniËku vladu tako dugo dok se ne steknu uvjeti da se hrvatske zemlje ujedine i da se stvori vlastita hrvatska vlada. Nije bilo lako u onim vremenima imati takvu viziju. A njome je u zakljuËcima Ugarskoga sabora postigao veliku pravnu pobjedu jer nitko nije vjerovao da se uvjet moæe ispuniti. No nakon 60 godina dogodilo se da se za hrvatskoga bana imenuje Josip JelaËiÊ koji je pod svojom vlaπÊu ujedinio cijelu Hrvatsku, CROATIA AIRLINES

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ukinuo kmetstvo, a staleπki sabor zamijenio opÊenarodnim, te stvorio bansko vijeÊe koje je, de facto, tvorilo prvu hrvatsku vladu. Nakon revolucionarne 1848., BeË je uveo novi apsolutizam, a nakon 20 godina, 1878., Hrvatska je morala prihvatiti nagodbu s Ugarskom, na temelju koje je u bitnim poslovima postala ovisna o Ugarskoj. Nova je Austro-Ugarska trajala 50 godina. U 20. stoljeÊu prva je Jugoslavija, u kojoj se Hrvatska utopila, trajala 22 godine, a druga Jugoslavija, u kojoj je Hrvatska opet pravno priznata kao republika, 46 godina. Tek je 1992. godine Hrvatska meunarodno priznata kao samostalna dræava u novoj Europi i globaliziranom svijetu. Samo se u cjelovitome pregledu hrvatske povijesti i kulture, kakav daje edicija Hrvatska i Europa, moæe uistinu razumjeti zaπto se to dogodilo i kako je Hrvatska preæivjela stoljeÊa nezamjetnosti i stoljeÊe nevidljivosti, ne gubeÊi ni svoj europski ni svoj nacionalni identitet. U velikom pregledu mogu se naÊi i mnogi drugi hrvatski znanstvenici svjetskoga glasa: od novijih Nikola Tesla, Andrija MohoroviËiÊ, Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger, pa dvojica nobelovaca, Lavoslav RuæiËka i Vladimir Prelog, zatim pisci: od suvremenih tu su Miroslav Krleæa, Ivan Aralica i Nedjeljko Fabrio, Ëija djela mogu ravnopravno stajati na policama s djelima europskih i svjetskih pisaca, kao πto se u hrvatskoj umjetnosti i arhitekturi mogu naÊi sve stilske formacije koje su se pojavljivale u Europi, od predromanike do suvremenih tendencija, nerijetko u ostvarenjima visokih dometa, πto takoer potvruje hrvatsku potpunu uraslost u Europu. n

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roatia and Europe: Literature, Science and Art is one of the most comprehensive research and publishing endeavours undertaken by the Croatian Academy of Science and Art and its publisher ©kolska knjiga, the Croatian editorial giant which focuses mostly on a national programme. Generally speaking, it is also one of the most comprehensive projects ever undertaken in the domains of Croatian history, politics, culture, science and art, to which it was dedicated. The initiative was launched by Academician Ivan SupiËiÊ, who proposed this European project to the Academy in the early 1990s. The Croatian Academy was undoubtedly the institution which was the most competent to carry out such a project. It is the largest scientific publisher in the country, albeit far from the eyes of the media and public conscience, and the institution has been the leader and initiator of remarkable publications in the field of Croatian history, language, art history 124

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and natural history ever since its establishment. Without the existence of the institution, contemporary Croatian culture and science would be unthinkable. The first volume, The Middle Ages (VII-XII Century), was published in 1998. The publication had been preceded by comprehensive preparations and a large body of scientific work by more than one hundred professionals, academicians, scientists and renowned experts in various areas. In the twelve years that followed, another three volumes ensued: The Middle Ages and Renaissance (XII-XVI Century), Baroque and Enlightenment (XVIXVIII Century) and the recently published Modern Croatian Culture (XIX Century). Optimistic forecasters hope to see the fifth and final volume, Contemporary Croatian Culture (XX Century), published in 2011, marking the 150th birthday of the Croatian Academy of Science and Art. The editor-in-chief of the first three volumes in the encyclopaedic format (each one containing at least 1,500 pages, with first-rate photographs of historical documents and monuments) was Ivan SupiËiÊ. The fourth and fifth volumes were entrusted to Academician Mislav JeæiÊ, a full-time professor at the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences in Zagreb. In his introduction, SupiËiÊ pointed out that the timing for such a grand publication was extremely unfavourable due to the Homeland War and post-war period. However, he went on to say that these five volumes would be unimaginable without the newfound Croatian freedom, sovereignty and independence. An interdisciplinary scientific approach has proven the main hypothesis of Croatia and Europe: for thirteen centuries, Croatia has been a constituent part of Europe, primarily Central and Mediterranean and has managed to preserve the continuity of its national identity and sovereignty like very few other states have. According to JeæiÊ, Croatia preserved its attributes of sovereignty, iura et privilegia regni, parliament and viceroy (or Ban as the Croatians called him) right from the end of the Croatian House of TrpimiroviÊ, through the reigns of foreign rulers ∑ the dynasties of Arpad, Anjou, Luxembourg and Jagiello, followed by four centuries under the Habsburgs ∑ until the fall of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy and the establishment of the first Yugoslavia (1918-1941). Therefore it is no wonder that Jacques Le Goff, one of the world’s leading medievalists, wrote in the preface to the English and French edition of the first volume of Croatia and Europe: I am sure that the readers of this volume will find excellent reasons to express their admira-

tion and friendship to the Croatian people of today, after the tragic events of the century (20th century, author’s note) and to help in the recognition of Croatia’s thousand-year role within Europe. Le Goff goes on to assert that this exceptional publication by the Croatian Academy of Science and Art and ©kolska knjiga will make many of its French readers feel ashamed of their ignorance, starting with me! The late Academician Supek, who was at the head of the Academy during the preparation stage of the project, noted that even in the early glory days Croatia accepted and lived according to the values of morality and spirituality of the Western European cultural circles of the time. Croatia and Europe is a European project, since it is intended not only for the Croatian public but, translated into English and French and with German and Italian translations under consideration, also for scientists, universities, institutes, politicians, statesmen, public officials, artists and intellectuals in general worldwide. To quote JeæiÊ: it is worth presenting Croatian history, science and culture to the international public as some aspects of European and world history can be better viewed from the point of view of a country like Croatia, which has always shared borders with large empires and great spiritual spheres, rather than from the point of view of large centres. But what does Croatian history look like from the European context? According to an early 7th century letter from Pope Gregory I to Maxim, the Bishop of Salona, the Slavs (while this is the first written mention of Slavs; the Croats were early on well aware of their name within the Slav group, author’s note) and Avars burst into Dalmatia around 615 and devastated Salona, the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia. In fear of the newcomers, the Romans fled to the islands (©olta, BraË, Hvar and Vis) and returned to their homes only when the Slavs, i.e. Croats, positioned themselves in the hinterland. However, the two nations were nevertheless destined to economic and cultural symbiosis. The Roman influence on the neighbouring Croats is reflected in the early process of Christianisation, as seen in the baptismal font of Duke Viπeslav, which is assumed to date to the late 8th or early 9th century. The hexagonal baptismal font of the Croats, which was carved in marble, was kept in the baptistery of a church in Nin, a non-Byzantine town which was the seat of the oldest Croatian diocese and which is also known for its 9th century St. Cross Church, the smallest cathedral in the world. The Latin engraving on the rim of the font says in translation: This fountain (well) accepts the weak to


enlighten them. Here they receive purification from the crimes of the First Parents and become Christians redeemed by confession to the eternal Trinity. This work was crafted by the priest Ivan in the time of Duke Viπeslav, out of devotion honouring Saint John the Baptist, to intercede for him and his protégée. In the 9 th century, when the Croats were exposed to strong Frankish, Roman and Byzantine influences, Croatia was divided into two principalities: Pannonia and Dalmatia, with Dalmatia playing a significant role in the unification of Croatia during King Tomislav’s reign. In addition to writings in stone, there are documents from the times of national sovereigns (9th-11th centuries), mostly deeds of gifts given by dukes and kings. However, there are questions regarding their authenticity because they were not found among the 9th and 10th century scriptures but were written later, possibly based on the memories of official witnesses, and could reflect certain interests at the time of writing. Nevertheless, according to JeæiÊ, these documents are important because they shed light on the relations between Croatian sovereigns and the towns which were part of Byzantine Dalmatia, relations between the sovereigns and the church, and the level of education of the sovereigns and their circles. It seems that a more appropriate question would be to what extent they are authentic because, for instance, in the post-King Zvonimir times, no one would use Croatian words to falsify the names of Croatian court officials and offices in a Latin text, such as: wine pourer, bed linen man, squire, oxman, county prefect, etc. At the time of these writings, such names were no longer in use. Moreover, said JeæiÊ, even though Latin was the official language of international communication in the Croatian court and church, the Croatian aristocracy officially spoke Croatian in court, alongside Latin, in the times of national sovereigns. While accepting Latin, the Croats preserved their own linguistic features as well, unlike the Franks, for instance, who lost their language and embraced the vulgar Latin. Croatia attained historical visibility very early thanks to the Byzantine and Frankish Empires and the Roman pope. These three great cultural entities recorded their histories and and those of their peoples, including the Croats. Since Croatia was culturally at the border of Western Europe and geographically at the edge of Central Europe, we know a great deal about medieval Croatian history. In the 9th century, disciples of Saint Cyril and Methodius introduced the Glagolitic script to Croatia. It was accepted alongside the Old

Slavic language, which in its very early stage embraced elements of the so-called Croatian redaction and dialects, evident in the Baπka Tablet. It is safe to say that the Croatian language founded on the Old Slavic model is the oldest Croatian literary language, and that the Croats were specific among the people that followed the Roman Catholic Church in that they were the only people allowed by the Pope to hold liturgy in their own language ∑ the Old Slavic, which was still understood by the people. The Croats, educated in Glagolitic and Greek, were able to write documents in Cyrillic in the 12th century since Cyrillic was based on the Greek alphabet and was as comprehensible to them as to other Slavs under the Byzantine influence. However, the Latin script, which was used by the Croats in church and in public life, was accepted by Croats for writing in their language in the fourteenth century. Thus Croatian culture reflected its geographic position, extending along most of the coast between Italy and Greece. One of the most important works of Croatian literature is the Glagolitic Missal editio princeps printed in 1483, only 28 years after Gutenberg’s Bible. It was also the first missal in Europe which was not printed in a Latin script. According to JeæiÊ: At the time of the Split Assembly in 925, when Tomislav was elected king, the ancient dioceses in Dalmatia were reinstalled, but the province itself, along with the rest of Croatia, finally belonged to the western, Roman Catholic sphere. Until then, the Dalmatian towns had belonged to the power with the richest culture at that time, the Byzantine Empire, like all the other Adriatic cities, from Venice to Ravenna. Venice was culturally a Byzantine city, which is evident in St. Mark’s Basilica, which does not belong to Western art but demonstrates the most beautiful Byzantine traits. The conquest of Constantinople in the Fourth Crusade, organised by Venice, was a sort of matricide that enabled Venice to appropriate former Byzantine estates. Venice became an Italian-Croatian-Greek state, not simply a city in Italy, which is regularly misinterpreted. A great many things from Croatian history are often misinterpreted. It is difficult to say which Croatian concepts had an impact on Europe, but there is no doubt about which Croatian intellectuals and scientists left deep traces in Europe’s cultural heritage. According to JeæiÊ, Croatia has produced great men in every period, however difficult or limiting the conditions. - In the 12th century, there was Herman Dalmatin, a Croatian philosopher and scientist from

Istria, who was among the first to introduce Aristotelian elements into philosophy during the time when Platonic concepts prevailed. In addition, he was one of the first to translate Arabian philosophy and astronomy into Latin, and he even translated the Koran, inspired by the efforts of the Abbot of Cluny. To that aim, he travelled to Spain and to Middle-Eastern countries. Master Radovan (13th century), a sculptor and architect, created a Romanesque masterpiece: the main portal of the cathedral in Trogir. In the 15th century, Juraj Dalmatinac, a sculptor and engineer, who was already affirmed in Italy, was invited to ©ibenik to build a cathedral in the Tuscan Renaissance style with elements of Venetian gothic. Also in the 15th century, Juraj DragiπiÊ (Georgius Benignus), who was born in Srebrenica, fled from the Ottoman insurgents to Dubrovnik and joined the Franciscans. Afterwards he studied theology in Ferrara and Rome, and, at the recommendation of Cardinal Bessarion, became the tutor of son of the powerful Duke of Urbino. He also became the counsellor of the Florentine sovereign Lorenzo dei Medici and the educator of his sons, Pietro and Giovanni dei Medici. Giovanni later became Pope Leon X and tried to launch a crusade to free the Christians from Turkish rule. DragiπiÊ knew Michelangelo, Bramante, Raphael, Pope Julius II and Emperor Maximilian. He acted as the archbishop of the Nazareth Diocese in Barletta. DragiπiÊ is only one of the examples which show that not only was Europe built into Croatia but that Croats participated in the building of Europe. In the eyes of renowned Croatian humanists, Europe should be, above all, tolerant. In the 15th century, Janus Pannonius wrote elegies warning that mankind can perish by its own hand, which, according to Ivan Supek, is unique in European poetry. In 1465 (1467), Croatian humanists Janus Pannonius and Ivan Vitez of Sredna founded the Academia Istropolitana, the oldest Hungarian (and Slovakian) university, in Poæun (Bratislava). The list also includes Marko MaruliÊ, the father of Croatian literature, as Ivan KukuljeviÊ called him. He wrote in Latin and Croatian. His Judita, the first Croatian epic, was inspired by the Biblical tale of Judith, but he related the story to contemporary times, namely the Ottoman conquests. His Latin work, Instructions for a Good Life Following the Examples of the Saints (Institutiones bene vivendi per exempla sanctorum), was a European bestseller in the 17th and 18th centuries, and St. Francis of Ksaver allegedly carried it with him on all his travels. Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirik (Mathias Flacius Illyricus) was a Croatian church reformer who was one CROATIA AIRLINES

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of the intellectual leaders of Central European Protestantism alongside Martin Luther and Philipp Melanchton. According to JeæiÊ, he was always aware that the term Illyricus in humanist Latin meant Croat. He wrote the comprehensive Centuriae Magdeburgienses, the largest and best documented history of the church after that of Eusebius in the 4th century. He wrote around 140 works on the history of the church and hermeneutics. JeæiÊ says: - He devised a philosophical and philological method on how to interpret the Bible accurately from the text itself, thus enabling the Protestants to reject the church doctrine. The method is called hermeneutics. On the one hand, it became the basis of the philological method in the approach to writings, and on the other, the foundation of the philosophical school of hermeneutics, referred to by some of the leading philosophers of the 20th century, such as Hans-Georg Gadamer, who mentions Matija VlaËiÊ Ilirk as the founder of hermeneutics. - In the 12th and 13th centuries, we have acclaimed humanists and physicists: Grisogono, PetriπeviÊ, De Dominis and BoπkoviÊ. We could talk about each of them extensively. We had remarkable poets as well: LuciÊ, HektoroviÊ, ZoraniÊ, VetranoviÊ, GunduliÊ, BuniÊ VuËiÊ, KaniæliÊ and KatanËiÊ. In the 18 th century, Andrija KaËiÊ MioπiÊ wrote about the history of the Slavic people in a poetic style, aiming to raise national awareness. He also wrote textbooks about peripatetic philosophy in Latin, following in the footsteps of Duns Scot. In the 17th century, the polihistorian Pavao Ritter-VitezoviÊ, who wrote scholarly works and poems in Latin, as well as the heroic epic The Siege of Sziget (Odilenje sigetsko), developed historical, political and linguistic concepts which would used 125 years later by the Croatian National Revival. Political leaders once had to have bold visions. Nikola ©krlec LomniËki, the great county prefect of Zagreb and top lawyer, gave the Croatian representatives in the Hungarian Parliament the historic instruction to accept de iure the common Hungarian government which de facto already existed by royal decree and which the Hungarians insisted upon, but under the following conditions: Croatia would acknowledge the common government until all the prerequisites were achieved for the Croatian states to unite and a Croatian government to be formed. Having such a vision was not easy in those times. This vision brought him a great legal victory in terms of the parliament decisions because no one actually believed the prerequisites could be fulfilled. 126

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However, 60 years later, Josip JelaËiÊ was proclaimed the Croatian governor (Ban). He united all Croatia under his rule, abolished serfdom and replaced the class-driven parliament with a people’s parliament, creating the Governor’s Council, which in fact constituted the first Croatian government. After the revolutionary 1848, Vienna introduced the new absolutism and, 20 years later, in 1878, Croatia was forced to accept a settlement with Hungary which led it to depend on Hungary in matters of great importance. The new Austro-Hungarian state lasted for 50 years. In the 20th century, the first Yugoslavia, which included Croatia, lasted for 22 years, while the second Yugoslavia, which granted Croatia the legal status of a republic, lasted for 46 years. It was not until 1992 that Croatia was internationally acknowledged as an independent state in the new Europe and globalised world. Only a comprehensive overview of Croatian history and culture, such as the publication Croatia and Europe, can illuminate why this happened and how Croatia survived through centuries of unimportance and a century of invisibility without losing either its European or its national identity. This extensive overview includes the names of many other internationally acclaimed Croats: the scientists Nikola Tesla, Andrija MohoroviËiÊ and Dragutin GorjanoviÊ Kramberger; Nobel Prize winners, Lavoslav RuæiËka and Vladimir Prelog; and writers Miroslav Krleæa, Ivan Aralica and Nedjeljko Fabrio. Croatian art and architecture contain all the stylistic forms Europe embraced, from the Pre-Romanesque to contemporary movements, often executed to the highest standards, confirming the interconnection between Croatia and Europe. n


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■ MODA FASHION

Kako da se i kojim putovima modno uspije na inozemnom træiπtu? U doba globalizacije i digitalizacije sve lakπe, ali πto je tajna uspjeha hrvatskih dizajnera? Formula je, naime, provjerena: darovitost, rad i upornost. Ali svaËiji je put drukËiji i specifiËan. How can one strike gold in the international fashion industry and penetrate foreign fashion markets? In a globalization and digitalization era everything is easier; nevertheless, what is the secret of Croatian designers’ success? The answer seems to boil down to a tested formula: talent, hard work and perseverance. However, everybody chooses their own specific path.

Tekst/By Lea Skledar

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vo je priËa o uspjehu hrvatskih modnih kreativaca izvan naπih dræavnih granica. A kreacije jedne od njih danas ste veÊ vidjeli ∑ pogledajte, stjuardesa koja vas je ponudila piÊem nosi kreaciju modne dizajnerice Branke Donassy, jedne od onih Ëiji æivotopis vrvi od prezentacija diljem svijeta, od ©vedske do Australije. Sajmovi, suradnje i izloæbe, s naglaskom na Milano, Pariz i New York. ∑ Iako se sudjelovanje na sajmu plaÊa, blagoslov svakom izlagaËu daje strogi æiri. U New York sam Ëak morala slati gotov proizvod, jer katkad su skice jedno, a model sasvim drugo. Govorim o uglednim sajmovima, gdje Êe po kvalitetu i inventivne kolekcije doÊi buyeri iz

boljih trgovina i robnih kuÊa ∑ otkriva iskusna autorica koja stoji iza poznate hrvatske modne marke Donassy. ∑ Bitno je, kad zadovoljite træiπte, ne ruπiti kvalitetu i strogo poπtivati rokove. Jer jedanput izgubljen kupac teπko se vraÊa. ∑ Prirodan organski proizveden lan, zatim fini pamuk i svila njezine su omiljene igraËke, a nerijetko njezini su kaputi i parke izraeni od impregniranih tkanina, moglo bi se reÊi spoj izmeu tradicionalnoga i futuristiËkoga. Tradicionalna je tkanina, a premaz ili tretiranje dio je najnovijih tehnologija u obradi tkanine, zbog Ëega su izdræljivije, modernije i praktiËnije. S Brankom Donassy razgovarali smo usred priprema za izloæbu u Berlinu, gdje je poloCROATIA AIRLINES

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Ovo je priËa o uspjehu hrvatskih modnih kreativaca izvan naπih dræavnih granica. A kreacije jedne od naših modnih kreatorica možete vidjeti promotrite li uniformu stjuardese Croatia Airlinesa. This is a story about the successes of Croatian designers beyond Croatia’s borders. You can admire the creations of one of those succesful designers if you look at the uniforms of the Croatia Airlines cabin crew. 130

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vicom lipnja prikazala modele za ljeto 2010., Ëija su tema autorski printevi mediteranskih motiva. SliËnu priËu ima i Brankina kolegica Ksenija VrbaniÊ. ∑ Bilo je to 1999. godine kad sam se odluËila pokrenuti... Trebale su mi Ëak dvije sezone da dokaæem strogom æiriju popularnog sajma CPD Düsseldorf da sam ja jedna od onih koji trebaju biti dio njihove ponude. Stvar je i u tome πto vam, za plasiranje na bilo kakvom sajmu, treba ne samo kolekcija, nego i popratni materijali poput kataloga i fotografija, a cijeli proces od prezentiranja do plasiranja u trgovine traje oko devet mjeseci. Danas je XD Xenia design ravnopravni sudionik na svjetskoj modnoj sceni strogo ciljane skupine kupaca. ∑ Redovito prezentiramo svoje kolekcije dvaput na godinu. To su u Düsseldorfu CPD, u Kopenhagenu CIFF, Londonu PURE, Parizu Atmosphere, New Yorku The Train i katkad u Moskvi, Berlinu, Abu Dahbiju, Münchenu. Skandinavija se pokazala kao dobar prostor za naπ dizajn, XD moæe se kupiti i u Kopenhagenu, Helsinkiju, Amsterdamu... sve su to gradovi koji imaju visoku kulturu odijevanja ∑ ponosno nabraja autorica, ljubiteljica crne i bijele boje, Ëije kreacije sadræavaju popriliËnu dozu skulpturalnosti i avangarde. Iako se sve Ëini divno, nemojte pomisliti da nitko nije spomenuo recesiju. Bilo je uspona i padova, kaæu nam sve sugovornice. Ipak, za dobrim se dizajnom uvijek traga, pa je hrvatski modni dvojac I-GLE, nakon viπesezonske prisutnosti u Londonu, dobio poziv za trgovine u ©vicarskoj i Berlinu. ∑ Istina, ova nas je recesija sve pogodila. No, ispostavilo se da je dobar dizajn uvijek aktualan tako da smo dobili izvrsne ponude ∑ kaæe Nataπa MihaljËiπin, jedna od autorica brenda I-GLE. Njihova je priËa o uspjehu zgodna i neobiËna: neki modni agent (oni su poput art dealera, samo barataju modnim dizajnerima, traæe talente, plasiraju ih u trgovine) vidio je na ulici u Londonu jednu od njihovih klijentica. Ta je zapravo mogla nositi bilo πto s njihovim potpisom, vjerojatno bi ionako privukla paænju nekoga modnog znalca: njihov je dizajn uglavnom konstruktivno vrlo kompleksan, zanimljiv i uvijek zapravo moderan, ne slijedi trendove nego ih fino ignorira, kao da je iznad njih. - Priπao joj je, pitao je Ëiju to nosi kreaciju i ostatak priËe zna se. Naime, poËela je izvrsna suradnja, koja je trajala viπe sezona, za viπe trgovina. Mi smo manja manufaktura, a duÊana koji traæe upravo male kolekcije originalnog potpisa vani ima popriliËno, osobito u Londonu.


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Zapravo, viπe je naËina kako da se doe na strano træiπte, objaπnjava Nataπa: ∑ Prvi je da platite veliku svotu i odræite reviju na nekome od najrazvikanijih tjedana mode u Milanu, Parizu, Londonu ili New Yorku. Drugi su naËin sajmovi koji se takoer plaÊaju, ali znatno manje od tjedana mode. Ondje imate πtand, gdje vas posjeÊuju kupci za trgovine i uzimaju narudæbe. I treÊi, preko modnog agenta, kakav je doπao k nama. No, neke zemlje rade na zanimljiv naËin, organiziraju manifestacije u vrijeme najboljih tjedana mode, kad su svi u gradu, zakupe prostor i prezentiraju svoje dizajnere koji su se u domovini veÊ dokazali. To su napravile, primjerice, Indija i Slovenija. Sajam su kao najprihvatljiviji naËin prezentiranja odabrale i dizajnerice koje se kriju iza modnog imena ROBA: Branka ©ËepanoviÊ i Maja SimunoviÊ. Njihov je modni brend, za razliku od prije spomenutih, mnogo mlai, uspjeh im se dogodio gotovo preko noÊi. ∑ Zaputile smo se na sajam u Parizu, Rendez Vous Femme, nadajuÊi se nekoj dobroj suradnji. I, odmah je upalilo! Posjetile su nas predstavnice Topshopa i uvelike se zainteresirale za kolekciju. Nakon sajma uslijedio je poziv na prezentaciju kolekcije u Londonu, u njihovoj centrali, a odmah nakon toga dobile smo Ëestitku ∑ prodaja naπih stvari u sklopu Topshopa na Oxford Streetu! U sklopu programa Edit, koji je namijenjen prezentaciji, kako oni kaæu, mladim i darovitim brendovima. Djevojke su se novom kolekcijom predstavile na istom sajmu za sezonu jesen 2010., nadaju se nastavku lijepe priËe, a æelja im je da πto prije njihove kreacije proπeÊu pistom londonskog tjedna mode. ∑ Kolekcije koje radimo proizlaze iz nekoga naπeg doæivljaja svijeta i vremena u kojemu æivimo, iz ljudi koje sreÊemo na Ëestim putovanjima, te prema osjeÊaju strujanja u sferama glazbe, umjetnosti i neoptereÊeno od granica koje nameÊu trendovi. Smatramo da je bitno istaknuti materijal kojim uglavnom radimo: fina, mekana ovËja napa te proces rada, kad se trudimo napraviti kvatitetan i poseban proizvod. I dok su se one za mjesto pod modnim suncem borile u Parizu, druga je Hrvatica isto radila u BeËu: Andrijana SubotiÊ PjajËik, ponosna vlasnica brenda ETNA MAAR, zasnovanoga na najfinijim ruËno raenim pleteninama. ∑ MQ Vienna Fashion Week omoguÊio mi je da osluhnem bilo europske modne publike na viπe razina. Showroom su posjeÊivali predstavnici robnih kuÊa, ljudi koji prepoznaju i stvaraju modne trendove, a na πtandu sam upoznavala ljubitelje mode koji ne æele nositi konfekciju, nego kreacije πto istiËu njihovu

osobnost. Ispuniti njihove æelje i potrebe izazov je za svakog dizajnera. Ubrzo je primila izvrsne ponude za prodaju u jednoj od tamoπnjih galerija, te za nastavak suradnje s nekoliko beËkih trgovina. Dio njezine proljetne turneje bio je i festival dizajna u Grazu, Assembly (odræan potkraj svibnja), na kojemu je ambiciozna dizajnerica predstavila svoje najnovije kreacije. Sa svojim brendom koji se uglavnom oslanja na etno modni izriËaj, Andrijana je na hrvatskoj modnoj sceni prisutna veÊ godinama, a klijentica koje nose njezine stvari ima popriliËno. Tome se nada naπ sljedeÊi akter ove kreativne priËe: Igor Galaπ, mladi modni dizajner koji je u nekoliko godina dobio glavne nagrade na svjetskim natjecanjima. ∑ »ak tri nagrade osvojio sam na svjetskom natjecanju Hempel Award Peking. Bilo je to prvi put πto je neki dizajner dobio toliko nagrada: pred æirijem od 68 Ëlanova nacrtao sam modnu ilustraciju koja je proglaπena najboljom modnom ilustracijom na svijetu za 2009. godinu. Nadalje, nagraen sam za treÊu najbolju kolekciju te primio posebnu nagradu za naj studenta modnog dizajna. Hrvatska je prvi put sudjelovala na natjecanju takvih razmjera. Nakon toga iste sam godine predstavio Hrvatsku na Mediteranskome modnom festivalu influence u Kopru, gdje sam pobijedio kao najbolji mladi dizajner i imao najbolju kolekciju…∑ ponosan je autor avangardnih pletenih haljina. No to nije sve. ∑ Nakon svih tih prekrasnih iskustava uz veliki trud i izraenu najbolju mapu crteæa koju sam napravio, uπao sam u finale uglednoga svjetskog natjecanja za mlade dizajnere iD Dunedin emerging designer awards na Novom Zelandu i ondje osvojio posebnu nagradu za izravan ulazak u finale meunarodnog natjecanja Mittelmoda premio. Ono najposebnije je to da sam, opet prvi put u povijesti tog natjecanja, dobio i glavnu nagradu za najbolju kolekciju i najboljeg dizajnera, πto joπ i sad ne vjerujem. Naime, konkurencija je bila veoma jaka i studenti su doπli iz cijelog svijeta, s najboljih modnih fakulteta ∑ govori nam Igor o uistinu impozantnom poËetku mlade modne karijere. Upravo zbog toga πto je svjestan da je to velika stvar, nastavlja se truditi joπ i viπe. Taj mladi πkolovani modni dizajner, kao i njegovi stariji i iskusniji kolege koji su se veÊ probili na strana træiπta, dokaz su hrvatske kreativne snage, kojoj su otvorena sva vrata. n

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hat follows is a story about the successes achieved by Croatian fashion designers beyond our state borders. You have already seen one of

their creations ∑ look at the air hostess who has just served your drink ∑ she is wearing a fashion creation by Branka Donassy, one of those whose curriculum vitae includes shows and presentations around the globe, from Sweden to Australia. She has been a part of fairs, cooperation with others and exhibitions, with the highlights of her career being shows in Milan, Paris and New York. - Even though one has to pay to participate in a fair, there is also a strict panel of judges who have to give their blessing before a designer’s participation in a fair is approved. I even had to send a finished product to New York because sketches are one thing and finished models are something entirely different. I am talking about prominent fashion fairs where high-end shop and department store buyers come to look for quality and inventive collections, - says the experienced designer behind the well known Croatian Donassy brand. - Once you manage to win your market share, you must maintain a high level of product quality and meet strict deadlines. A customer that has been let down once is probably a customer that is lost forever. Organically grown linen, the finest cotton and silk fabrics are her favourite toys. She often uses impregnated fabrics for her coats and parkas; one could say she uses a mixture of traditional and futuristic. The traditional fabrics are treated in a way which makes use of the newest fabric processing technologies; the result is a more durable, contemporary and practical material. We caught up with Branka Donassy amidst preparations for an exhibition in Berlin which took place in mid June. At that exhibition she showcased her summer 2010 collection which was themed around Mediterranean motifs. Branka’s colleague Ksenija VrbaniÊ has a similar story. - It was in 1999 when I decided to do something. It took me two seasons to prove to the strict panel of judges at the popular CPD Düsseldorf Fair that I was someone they should feature as part of their offer. It takes more than merely a collection to exhibit at a fair; you need other things such as catalogues and photos. The whole process, from showing a collection to selling it to the retail network, lasts about nine months. XD Xenia brand is currently a strong contender on the world fashion scene, with designs targeted at a well defined group of buyers. - As a rule we show our collections twice a year. We appear at CPD Düsseldorf, CIFF Copenhagen, PURE London, Atmosphere Paris, and Train New York, and sometimes in Moscow, Berlin, Abu Dhabi, and Munich. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Scandinavian countries have proven to be very good niche markets for our designs. You can buy the XD brand in Copenhagen, Helsinki, Amsterdam… cities with very distinct fashion cultures, - says the proud creator. She is a fan of black and white colour combinations and her creations boast highly sculptural and avant-garde features. Things may seem to be going quite well, but you should not mistakenly think that the word recession has not come up in their stories. All the designers we spoke to have had their ups and downs. However, good design is always in high demand. That is why the Croatian fashion tandem I-GLE has received an invitation to sell their products in shops around Switzerland and in Berlin, after having become a household name in London where the brand has been prospering for a few seasons now. - It is true that the recession has had an impact on all of us. However, it seems that good design is always in high demand, which is why we have received excellent offers, says Nataπa MihaljËiπin, one of the two authors behind the I-GLE brand. The story of the brand’s success is quite unusual: a fashion agent (they are like art dealers ∑ they handle fashion designers’ accounts, search for talents and sell their products to shops) had seen one of their customers strolling along a street in London. Chances are that customer would have caught the eye of a fashion connoisseur in any of I-GLE’s designs as their designs are mostly very complex in structure, very elaborate, intricate and actually never go out of fashion because the authors do not follow trends, but rather elegantly ignore trends as if they were above them. - The agent approached our customer and asked whose design she was wearing. The rest is history. That was the beginning of a successful cooperation which lasted for several seasons and put our products in a number of stores. We are a small-scale manufacturer and there are many fashion stores abroad which stock small and original collections, particularly in London. As a matter of fact, Nataπa explains that there are different ways to tap into a foreign market: - The first one is to put up a respectable sum of money and stage a fashion show during one of the most popular fashion weeks, either in Milan, Paris, London or New York. The second way is to appear at fairs, which also costs money, but considerably less money than during the fashion weeks. At a fair you hire a stand at which you are visited by buyers who scout merchandise for stores and make 138

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orders. The third way is to be approached by a fashion agent, which is what happened to us. However, some countries, like India and Slovenia for example, have adopted another very interesting approach. They organize events during the best fashion weeks, when everybody is already in town. They hire showrooms and present their designers who have already proven themselves at home. Branka ©ËepanoviÊ and Maja SimunoviÊ, the two designers behind the ROBA fashion brand, have also opted for fairs as the most suitable way of showcasing their designs. Unlike the previously mentioned brands, their brand is much younger, and their success happened almost overnight. - We took our wares to the Rendez Vous Femme in Paris, hoping to strike a good partnership deal. And we struck gold! We were visited by Topshop buyers who took a very keen interest in our collection. After the fair we received an invitation to present our collection at the company’s head office in London, and immediately after that we received excellent news: our designs would be sold in the Topshop flagship store in Oxford Street! The cooperation is part of the Edit programme, aimed at presenting young and upcoming brands, say the two designers. The girls went back to the same fair where they showed their autumn 2010 collection, hoping that the happy story would continue. The ultimate dream come true would be to see their creations on the catwalk during the London fashion week as soon as possible. - Our collections are the result of our vision of the world and the times we live in. We draw inspiration from people we meet on our travels, as well as from music and the arts. We are certainly not restricted by the boundaries imposed by current trends. We try to accentuate the quality of the material we mostly work with: the finest sheep skin. We also like to get the most from the work processes which allow us to come up with very special and high quality products. And while the two of them fought for their place in the sun during fashion week in Paris, another Croatian did the same in Vienna: Andrijana SubotiÊ PjajËik, the proud owner of the ETNA MAAR brand, established herself based on fine, hand-knit wares. - MQ Vienna Fashion Week allowed me to feel the pulse of the European fashion public at several levels. The Showroom received visits from department store buyers, the people who recognize and even set trends. At the stand I met fashion lovers who do not want to wear mass produced clothes, but rather tailor-made creations which reflect their personality. Meet-

ing those wishes and needs is a challenge for every designer. Soon thereafter the designer received an offer to sell her products in one of the local galleries, and also received promises for cooperation with several Viennese stores. As part of her spring tour, the ambitious designer exhibited her most recent creations at the Assembly Design Festival in Graz in late May. Andriana’s creations, based on ethno designs, have been present on the Croatian fashion scene for a number of years now, and her local client base is rather impressive. The next hopeful protagonist of this creative story is Igor Galaπ, a young designer who has won nothing other than the top prizes at international competitions over the past few years. - I won as many as three awards at the international Hempel Award Contest in Beijing. Never before had a single designer won so many awards. I drew a fashion illustration before a panel of 68 judges who proclaimed it the best fashion illustration in the world in 2009. I was also the winner of the third best collection award and I received a special award as the best fashion design student. That was the first Croatian appearance at such a large-scale contest. Later that same year I represented Croatia at the Mediterranean fashion festival influence in Kopar and won awards as the best young designer and the author of the best collection, - proudly says the author of avantgarde knit dresses. And that is not all. - After all those wonderful experiences, and after a lot of effort invested into the best portfolio of drawings that I’ve ever made, I reached the finals of the prominent iD Dunedin emerging designer awards contest in New Zealand where I won a special prize which directly entered me into the finals of the international Mittelmoda premio contest. The most special of all was that, again for the first time in the history of the latter contest, I received awards for both the best collection and as the best young designer, a fact that is still hard to believe. The competition was really fierce; students had come from the best fashion design schools worldwide. This is how Igor describes the beginnings of a young designer’s really impressive career. He appreciates the importance of what he has achieved so far, and that is why he continues to work even harder. The story of this young and educated fashion designer, as well as the stories of his somewhat older and more experienced colleagues who have already penetrated foreign markets, prove that the doors to the fashion world are wide open to Croatian creative forces. n


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■ GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY

Tekst/By Davorka Pšenica Fotografije/Photos Federiko Sterle, Ana Slamek CibiÊ, BBK Marun, Lovranske vile d.o.o., Lovran

Svako godiπnje doba ima svoje plodove koji ga na neki naËin obiljeæavaju, a jesen je vrijeme dozrijevanja pitomog kestena, voÊa koje se ubraja u veoma traæene i cijenjene poslastice.

Every season has its fruits, and autumn is the time of chestnuts, a highly sought after delicacy. 140

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esten (Castanea sativa) moæe izrasti u visinu do 25 metara. Domovina je pitomog kestena srednja Azija. Danas je rasprostranjen u zemljama Sredozemlja, ali uspijeva i u Maarskoj, ©vicarskoj, NjemaËkoj, Engleskoj, pa Ëak i u pojedinim predjelima Afrike i Sjeverne Amerike. Premda raste u svim krajevima s umjerenom klimom u listopadnim πumama, nisu svi pitomi kesteni jednake kakvoÊe, veliËine, okusa i kaloriËne vrijednosti. Kesten odlikuje dugovjeËnost jer njegovo stablo moæe doæivjeti i do pet stoljeÊa, no to je ipak iznimka a ne pravilo, jer podloæan je obolijevanju. U Hrvatskoj pitomi kesten raste od sjevernih krajeva pa do kvarnerskog podruËja, od Hrvatskog zagorja, Podravine i Slavonije, do Istre i Kvarnera, gdje je rasprostranjen na Pazinπtini te osobito na obroncima UËke koji se spuπtaju na more ∑ oko Lovrana, Opatije, Veprinca, Poljana, DobreÊa. Dok je sjevernije plod pitomog kestena manji, u πumama na padinama UËke raste proslavljeni i opjevani lovranski marun, kesten koji je po veliËini pravi Golijat meu subraÊom. U Hrvatskom zagorju i Podravini taj plod zovu kostanj, u Slavoniji kesten, a na Kvarneru marun ili maron, a dolazi od talijanskoga marone, πto u prijevodu znaËi sme. Od svih kestena, kostanja i maruna, najpoznatiji je, najcjenjeniji i najbolji lovranski marun. Prepoznatljiv je turistiËki mamac koji iz godine u godinu proslavlja lovranski kraj i privlaËi tisuÊe i tisuÊe posjetitelja na marunade, tradicionalne feπte od maruna, koje se svake godine u jesen odræavaju u lovranskome kraju. Marunada je najveÊa i najpoznatija gastro manifestacija Lovrana. Ta lovranska feπta od maruna prava je gozba za sladokusce. KolaËi, slastice i ostala jela od kestena, spravljena po starim domaÊim receptima, tvore glavninu gastronomske ponude. Marunada se redovito odræava od 1973. godine u Lovranu i okolnim mjestima, a s vremenom pretvorila se u pravu turistiËku atrakciju za domaÊe i strane goste. Za sve neupuÊene posjetitelje, to je puËka veselica u vezi s berbom maruna ili kestena, kojih u πumama Lovranπtine, dijelu Opatijske rivijere, zaista ima u izobilju. Mjesec listopad svake je godine u znaku maruna, kad se uza zabavni program u restoranima Lovrana i kavanama poznatih lovranskih hotela te na ulicama staroga grada priredi bogata gastronomska ponuda kolaËa i razliËitih drugih slastica od maruna. Marunada poËinje sredinom listopada u Lovranu, te se sljedeÊih vikenda odræava u selima iznad Lovrana, u Lignju i DobreÊu. Na marunadi se, uz bogatu gastronomsku ponudu domaÊih jela i piÊa, nude peËeni maruni, slastice i kolaËi od maruna, med i razliËiti medeni pripravci

te medica, poznata domaÊa rakija na bazi meda od kestena, i mlado vino. U kavanama i slastiËarnicama spravljaju se kolaËi, slastice i torte od maruna, a u konobama i restoranima mogu se kuπati originalna domaÊa jela pripremljena na bazi maruna. Ovogodiπnja 37. marunada odræava se od 15. do 30. listopada i cijelo vrijeme prati je bogat i sadræajima raznovrstan program. Glavno slavlje odvija se na trgu Brajdice u Lovranu, a na rasporedu je cjelodnevni program u kojemu nastupaju folklorne grupe, puhaËki orkestri te, dakako, izvoaËi zabavne glazbe. Sportski dio marunade sastoji se od sportova koji populariziraju Park prirode UËku i njegove sportske moguÊnosti: avanturistiËka utrka UËka Mountain Trek, zatim planinarski pohod na UËku, te Mountain bike tura od Lovrana do Lovranske Drage, Lignja i DobreÊa. U Lovranu se joπ odræava i boÊarski turnir, te susret oldtimera, pa tko voli nek’ izvoli. Dakako, svi posjetitelji mogu kuπati tradicionalno pripravljene delikatese od maruna. Osim privlaËne gastronomske ponude za cijelo vrijeme trajanja marunade organiziran je zabavni program u kojemu sudjeluju folklorni i glazbeni sastavi iz Istre i Kvarnera. Odræavaju se nagradna natjecanja, prigodne izloæbe te radionice u kojima moæete saznati i nauËiti sve o marunima, o njihovoj zdravstvenoj vrijednosti, primjeni maruna u kulinarstvu, o receptima i pripremanju slastica, pa sve do izrade raznovrsnih suvenira od kestena. U izradi dekoracija uz marune kombiniraju se najrazliËitiji materijali iz prirode: otpale kore, stari panjevi, osuπena vinova loza, daske i balvani πto ih je ispralo more. Pitomi kesten izvrsna je hrana visoke kaloriËne vrijednosti. Zbog vrijednih plodova ubrajamo ga u voÊke, a zbog mjesta rasta u πumsko drveÊe. Kesten je ljekovito drvo, a u industriji se smatra jednim od najkvalitetnijih. Plod je kestena braπnast, pun vitamina B1, B2 i C te prirodnih πeÊera, bjelanËevina i masnih tvari. Cvate u lipnju i srpnju, a plod zrije u listopadu. Premda se sastoji od priliËno πkroba i voÊnog πeÊera, pitomi kesten ipak nije tako nabijen energijom, odnosno kalorijama da bi ga se potpuno morali odreÊi gojazni i osobe oboljele od πeÊerne bolesti. Ipak, valja znati da deset dekagrama kuhanog kestena ima kaloriËnu vrijednost od 231 kalorije, πto je ipak znatno manje od, na primjer, præenog kikirikija ili Ëokolade. Pitomi kesten sadræava Ëetrdesetak posto vode, a od minerala sadræava kalij, kalcij, fosfor, natrij i æeljezo. Hranjive tvari i aktivni sastojci kestena povoljno utjeËu na cirkulaciju i pomaæu u prijelaznom razdoblju kad se organizam treba prilagoditi na  sve hladnije dane. Zbog kaloriËne vrijednosti te vitamina i minerala pitomi se kesten CROATIA AIRLINES

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preporuËuje osobama kojima je potreban brz oporavak, djeci i bolesnicima te ljudima koji obavljaju fiziËke poslove. Ipak, oprez manekenkama i svima onima koji strogo dræe dijetu. Pitomi kesten neka bude poslastica koja se samo povremeno kuπa! Vaæno je naglasiti da se kestenom u kulinarstvu koristi ne samo kao prvorazrednom poslasticom koja se topi u ustima, nego i zbog njegovih hranjivih vrijednosti. Kesten se u tradicionalnoj kineskoj medicini preporuËuje i kao hrana i kao lijek. Kineska medicina temelji se na odabiru hrane koja odgovara stanju organizma. Isto se tako uzima ona hrana koja odgovara godiπnjem dobu, pa tako u jesen prelazimo na onu koja ima zagrijavajuÊi uËinak za organizam. Po prirodi toplome, okusom slatkome, kestenu je zadaÊa da jaËa æeludac, slezenu i bubrege, organe koji su i inaËe tijekom jeseni (slezena, æeludac) i zime (bubrezi, mokraÊni mjehur) prema kineskoj medicini energetski slabiji. Kesten je nekad nazivan kraljem jeseni jer njegov je zasitni plod doslovce hranio ljude joπ od antiËkih vremena. Upotrebljavao se ponajprije kao povrÊe ili je koriπteno kestenovo braπno, a tek od kraja 19. stoljeÊa postaje preteæno sastojak slastica. Ipak, nije nestao ni sa slanih jelovnika. Kesteni se konzumiraju na razliËite naËine, no najËeπÊe peËeni ili kuhani. Mogu biti ukusan i hranjiv meuobrok, koji je blagim i pomalo slatkastim okusom  veoma omiljen meu djecom. PeËeni kesteni, za razliku od kuhanih, neodoljivo privlaËe mirisom i  na neki naËin daju osobit πarm gradskim ulicama u jesen. Tko tada moæe odoljeti svjeæe peËenim, vruÊim marunima? No kao i sa svim namirnicama bogatima ugljikohidratima, pa tako i s kestenom i slasticama od njega, treba biti umjeren.  Od kestena se zbog visoka sadræaja πkroba moæe dobiti i braπno koje se samo, ili pomijeπano s braπnom drugih æitarica, upotrebljava za izradu peciva i kruha.  Danas se najËeπÊe rabi u obliku kesten pirea, te kao dodatak jelima i juhama. Nezaobilazne su slastice od kestena, od kesten kocki i pita do razliËitih vrsta vrlo ukusnih torti, pa Ëak i sladoleda. U smrznutom obliku kesten je dostupan cijele zime pa se rabi i za pripremu boæiÊnih i novogodiπnjih kolaËa. Prednost je kestena u tome πto se moæe kombinirati i uza slana i uza slatka jela. Ukusni ruËak na bazi kestena Za one koji nikad nisu uæivali u jelima od maruna, evo i nekoliko recepata jela od kestena. Za poËetak predlaæemo juhu, za glavno jelo πpagete s kestenjem, a za kraj, slatku poslasticu, laganu tortu od kestena. Gusta juha od maruna s povrÊem Priredite: 300 dag maruna, 150 dag mrkve, 1 struk poriluka, 1 stabljiku celera; korijen celera, maslinovo ulje, sol  142

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Kestene skuhajte i ogulite. Ostavite nekoliko kestena na stranu. Posebno skuhajte mrkvu, poriluk i celerov korijen. Sve skuhano (i kesten i povrÊe) izmiksajte, dolijte vodu od kuhanog povrÊa te æliËicu maslinova ulja. Lagano promijeπajte i joπ nekoliko minuta neka se lagano kuha na vatri. Na kraju umijeπajte i nekoliko cijelih kestena. Juhu ponudite vruÊu. ©pageti s kestenjem Priredite: 500 dag πpageta, 250 dag kuhanih i oËiπÊenih kestena, 30 dag margarina, 30 dag maslaca, parmezan, 1/2 litre juhe od povrÊa, 1 æliËicu braπna, 1 ælicu pirea od rajËica, 1/2 Ëaπe crnoga (ili bijelog) vina, sol, papar, limunov sok, bosiljak ©pagete kuhajte u posoljenoj vodi, ocijedite ih i istresite na tavu s vruÊim maslacem. Promijeπajte, pospite ribanim parmezanom, poklopite i ostavite na toplome. U posebnoj zdjeli rastopite margarin (ili umjesto toga dodajte ælicu maslinova ulja), na njemu prepræite braπno i dodajte pire od rajËica. Umak zaËinite s pola Ëaπe vina, limunovim sokom te popaprite po ukusu, uz dodatak nekoliko listiÊa sjeckanog bosiljka. Kad umak malo prokuha, dodajte pire od kestenja. Pustite da se joπ neko vrijeme lagano kuha, a onda umak prelijte po πpagetima. Ukrasite s nekoliko komada cijelih kestena. Recepti su preuzeti iz knjige Vegetarijanska kuhinja, Zagreb, SNL, 1989.

Lagana torta od kestena Recepata i varijacija na ovu slasticu uistinu je mnogo, no za ovu prigodu odabrali smo jednostavniju varijantu, laganu tortu od kestena. Svi je vole jer lagana je, topi se u ustima i nije zasitna. Priredite: 20 dag kesten pirea, 8 dag maslaca, 4 jaja, 20 dag πeÊera, 12 dag braπna, 1/2 praπka za pecivo; za nadjev - 20 dag kesten pirea, 1 ælicu ruma, 12 dag πeÊera, 2 bjelanjka, 2 πlag pjene Posebno pjenasto smiksajte maslac, a posebno æutanjke sa πeÊerom. Æutanjke pomijeπajte s maslacem i u smjesu dodajte kesten pire I braπno s praπkom za pecivo. Na kraju u smjesu polako umijeπajte Ëvrst snijeg od Ëetiri bjelanjka. Smjesu rasporedite u pouljen i pobraπnjen kalup za torte. Pecite na umjerenoj vatri u zagrijanoj peÊnici. PeËenu ohlaenu koru prereæite napola. Dio premaæite nadjevom i preklopite drugim dijelom. Vanjsku povrπinu ukrasite πlag pjenom. Nadjev: Pjenasto izradite Ëvrst snijeg od bjelanjaka i u nj polako umijeπajte izraenu smjesu kesten pirea sa πeÊerom i rumom. Izvor http://www.kuharica.hr n


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he height of a mature chestnut tree (Castanea sativa) can be up to 25 metres. Originally grown in Asia Minor, the sweet chestnut has spread across the Mediterranean basin, Hungary, Switzerland, Germany, England and even to certain parts of Africa and Northern America. Although chestnut trees may be found in deciduous forests across regions with moderate climates, not all its fruits are of the same quality, size, taste and caloric value. The chestnut tree has a long life span: it can live to be up to five hundred years old, albeit only exceptionally, as it is prone to diseases. In Croatia, sweet chestnuts grow in an area stretching from Croatian Zagorje, Podravina and Slavonia in the north to the Istrian peninsula and the Bay of Kvarner in the south. On the littoral, they are particularly commonplace around Pazin and even more so on the slopes of Mt UËka which descend down to the sea and the towns of Lovran, Opatija, Veprinac, Poljane and DobreÊ. In the north, the nuts tend to be smaller than in the chestnut forests on the slopes of UËka, the home of the famed and glorified Lovran marun, a chestnut whose size qualifies it as a true Goliath among its brethren. Known under different variations of the Croatian name in the regions of northern Croatian Zagorje, Podravina and Slavonia, the chestnut is popularly called marun or maron in the Bay of Kvarner. The word comes from the Italian marone, meaning brown. Of all the chestnut varieties, the best known, the most valued and the tastiest is the Lovran marun. It has become a veritable bait for tourists who have recognized it for its qualities and flock to the Lovran region in their thousands to take part in the famous Marunada, a traditional chestnut festival which takes place every autumn in and around Lovran. The Marunada is the biggest and best known gastronomic event in Lovran. The Lovran marun festival is quite a treat for gourmets, particularly those with a sweet tooth. Cakes, deserts and other dishes made from chestnuts and prepared according to old local recipes constitute the core of the gastronomic offer of the Marunada, which has been taking place regularly in Lovran and its environs since 1973. What started as a local festival has developed into a true attraction for locals and foreign guests alike. For those who do not know it yet, the popular festival is centred around the harvest of chestnuts, which abound in the forests around Lovran on the Opatija Riviera. Every year, the month of October is marked by chestnuts. Lovran restaurants and hotels stage entertainment programmes which spill over onto the streets of the old town to ac-

company a specially prepared gastronomic offer of cakes and other delicacies made from chestnuts. The Marunada festival kicks off in mid-October in Lovran, with something happening every weekend in Liganj and DobreÊ, villages above Lovran. In addition to the various types of local foods and drinks, the gastronomic offer during the Marunada includes roast chestnuts, sweets and cakes made from chestnuts, chestnut honey and other honey-based produce, as well as medica, a famous local brandy based on chestnut honey and young wine. Cafes and patisseries make chestnut cakes, sweets and chestnut torte while wine cellars and restaurants offer original local dishes based on chestnuts. This year’s Marunada, the 37th, will take place between 15th and 30th October. The organizers have prepared a rich and varied programme. The venue of the main evening event is Brajdica Square in Lovran, where the programme will feature folklore groups, brass orchestras and pop musicians. The sports part of the Marunada festival comprises events which highlight the sporting advantages of the UËka Nature Park and the opportunities for outdoor activities it offers: the adventure UËka Mountain Trek, a mountaineering expedition on UËka, as well as the Mountain bike tour from Lovran to Lovranska Draga, Liganj and DobreÊ. A bocce tournament will be staged in Lovran as well as an old-timer car race ∑ different strokes for different folks, as they say. Needless to say, all visitors are welcome to sample delicacies made from Lovran chestnuts. Besides its attractive gastronomic offer, the Marunada also provides entertainment during the entire length of the festival, including folk ensembles and pop groups from Istria and Kvarner. There will also be prize competitions, exhibitions and workshops where visitors will hear and learn all about chestnuts, their medicinal use and their use in cooking. Experts will share their recipes and techniques for preparing pastries from chestnuts; others will demonstrate various ways of making souvenirs that combine chestnuts and other natural materials and ingredients such as dry tree bark, old tree trunks, dried vines, planks and logs washed ashore by the sea, woody mushrooms, acorns, dry leaves, fresh fruits, decorative pumpkins and ethnological objects. Sweet chestnut is an excellent high-calorie food. Because of its nuts, it is considered a fruit tree. Because of the places where it grows, it is considered a forest tree. The chestnut is a medicinal tree and a source of the highest quality timber for the timber CROATIA AIRLINES

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processing industry. The nuts have a high starch content, lending them a floury texture. They are a rich source of vitamins B1, B2 and C, as well as of natural sugars, protein and fats. The flowers appear in June and July, and the nuts ripen in autumn. Although rich in starch and fruit sugar, the sweet chestnut is not so rich in energy, or rather calories, that it should be totally avoided by overweight people and diabetics. However, it is good to know that ten decagrams of boiled chestnuts has a caloric value of 231 calories, much less than, for example, roast peanuts or chocolate. Sweet chestnuts contain approximately 40 per cent water, and the minerals include potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sodium and iron. The nutrient substances and active ingredients found in chestnuts have a beneficial effect on blood circulation and help the body prepare for cold winter days. Because of its caloric value, vitamins and minerals, chestnuts are recommended to convalescents, children, sick people and those who do physical work. However, fashion models and those trying to lose weight should not indulge too often. Sweet chestnuts should be a special treat on their menus, enjoyed only rarely. In cooking, chestnuts are used not only as a first rate delicacy which melts in one’s mouth but also as a cooking ingredient valued for its high nutrient content. In the traditional Chinese medicine, the chestnut is recommended both as a food and a medicine. Chinese medicine is based on the philosophy that a person’s diet should be adapted to their bodies’ specific needs. Likewise, a diet should be seasonal, thus in autumn we need to switch to the ingredients which increase bodily temperature. Warm by nature and sweet-tasting, chestnut strengthens the stomach and spleen and the kidneys and bladder, which, according to Chinese medicine, tend to be energetically weaker in autumn (stomach, spleen) and winter (kidneys, bladder). The chestnut is popularly known as the king of autumn for its sweet fruit has provided human sustenance since ancient times. Originally, it was used as a vegetable or as a source of flour. As of the 19th century, its predominant use has been in cakes and pastries. However, it has not disappeared as an ingredient in savoury dishes. Chestnuts have various uses in the kitchen, but they are mostly eayen roasted or boiled. They can be served as a tasty and nutritious snack. Because of its mildly sweet taste, it is particularly popular with children. When roasted, chestnuts exude a particularly at144

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tractive aroma which gives a unique charm to our streets in autumn. However, as with any other carbohydrate-rich food, chestnuts and cakes made from them must be enjoyed in moderation. Their high starch content makes chestnuts a good source of flour. On their own or mixed with flour obtained from various cereals, they may be used for baking bread and other bakery products. In modern cuisine, they are primarily used for chestnut puree and as an ingredient in a range of dishes, including soups. Chestnut deserts come in all forms, including roulades, pies and slices, torte and even icecreams. Chestnuts can be frozen and readily available throughout winter for Christmas and New Year desserts. The advantage of chestnuts is that they can be combined with both savoury and sweet foods. A tasty dinner based on chestnuts Here are some recipes for those who have never indulged in chestnut dishes. We start with a soup, followed by a main course of spaghetti with chestnuts, and finally, a dessert: a light chestnut cake. Chestnut and vegetable soup Ingredients: 300g chestnuts; 150g carrots; 1 leak; 1 celery stalk; 3/3 celery root; olive oil, salt Preparation: Boil the chestnuts and peel them. Set a few aside. Separately boil the carrots, leak and the celery root. Blend all the ingredients together (the chestnuts and the vegetables), add the water in which the vegetables were boiled and a teaspoon of olive oil. Stir lightly and let it boil for a few more minutes. Finally, add a few whole chestnuts. Serve hot. Spaghetti with chestnuts Ingredients: 500g spaghetti; 250g chestnuts, boiled and peeled; 30g margarine; 30g butter; parmesan; 1/2 litre vegetable stock; 1 teaspoon flour; 1 spoon tomato puree; 1/2 glass red (or white) wine; salt, pepper, lemon juice, basil Preparation: Cook the spaghetti in salted water, drain and pour into a skillet with the sizzling butter. Stir, sprinkle with grated parmesan, cover with a lid and keep in a warm place. In a separate bowl, melt the margarine, which can be replaced by a spoonful of olive oil. Add the flour and cook to make rue, and then add the tomato puree. Add the wine and the lemon juice, season with pepper and a few chopped basil leaves. Add the chestnut puree to the boiling rue. Then let the sauce boil for a little longer before you pour it over the spaghetti. Decorate with a few whole chestnuts. The recipes come from the cookbook Vegetarian cuisine, Zagreb, SNL, 1989.

And finally, here is a recipe for a wonderful pudding, a chestnut cake. There are many recipes for this delicacy and many variations. We have chosen the simplest one, a light chestnut cake. Everybody will love it; it is light, it melts in the mouth and it is not filling. Light chestnut cake Ingredients: 200g chestnut puree; 80g butter; 4 eggs; 200g sugar; 120g floor; 1/2 sachet baking powder. Filling: 200g chestnut puree; 1 spoon rum; 120g sugar; 2 egg whites; Chantilly cream for decoration Preparation: Separate the yolks from the whites; place the butter in a bowl and whisk until soft; place the yolks and the sugar in a separate bowl and whisk until they are well combined and thickened; combine the yolk and sugar mixture with the softened butter and add the chestnut puree, the flouer and the baking powder into the mixture. Whisk the whites in a separate bowl to a firm texture and slowly combine with the rest of the ingredients. Brush the cake tin lightly with some melted butter and lightly flour. Pour the batter into a cake tin and bake in a pre-heated oven at a moderate temperature. When the cake has cooled, cut it in half. Spread the filling on top of one half and cover it with the other half. Decorate the top with the Chantilly cream. Filling: whisk the whites into a meringue. Mix the chestnut puree with the sugar and the rum. Slowly combine the meringue with the chestnut puree mixture. Source: http://www.kuharica.hr n


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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

ELINA GARAN»A

Elina GaranËa prvi Êe put i uæivo zapjevati u Koncertnoj dvorani

JEDNA OD NAJVE∆IH OPERNIH ZVIJEZDA DANAŠNJICE

Vatroslava Lisinskog, 10. listopada 2010., uza Simfonijski orkestar

ONE OF TODAY’S BIGGEST OPERA STARS

Hrvatske radiotelevizije pod vodstvom Karela Marka Chichona. Umjetnica s radoπÊu oËekuje susret s hrvatskom publikom. Elina GaranËa will perform live in the Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall on 10th October 2010, her first ever appearance in Croatia. She will be accompanied by the Symphony Orchestra of Croatian Radio Television, conducted by Karel Mark Chichon. The artist is looking

Fotografije/Photos ∂ Gabo/DG

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ilo mi je sedam godina i roditelji su me odveli na Wagnerova Tannhäusera. Uæasno sam se dosaivala, jer niπta nisam razumjela i otiπla sam iz kazaliπta u stanci - priznala je Elina GaranËa o svome prvom susretu s operom. Omiljena pjevaËica tada joj je bila Barbra Streisand, a oboæavala je i pop-dive poput Whitney Houston i Mariah Carey, Ëije je pjesme Ëesto pjevuπila. Svijet opere otkriva u dobi od 17 godina ploËom na kojoj se, meu ostalima, nalazila slavna Normina arija Casta diva u interpretaciji australske koloraturne sopranistice Joan Sutherland. Elina GaranËa jedna je od najveÊih opernih zvijezda danaπnjice. Ova letonska mezzosopranistica paænju je privukla kad je za samo deset dana spremila ulogu Giovanne Seymour u Donizettijevoj operi Anna Bolena. Pobjede na meunarodnim pjevaËkim natjecanjima otvaraju joj vrata svjetskih opernih pozornica. Nastupala je u najvaænijim opernim kuÊama kao πto su njujorπka Metropolitan opera, londonska Kraljevska opera Covent Garden, BeËka i Bavarska dræavna opera, beËki Musikverein, pariπka Opera Garnier itd. Snimila je desetak CD-a i DVD izdanja za najuglednije izdavaËke kuÊe, dobitnica je mnogih nagrada, od kojih Ëak Ëetiri za pjevaËicu godine. Europska kulturna fondacija dodijelila joj je Europsku nagradu za glazbu 2006. godine. Gospoa GaranËa ima sve πto je potrebno: muzikalnost, tehniku, glas, samouvjerenost, pamet, dramski opseg i izgled filmske zvijezde, rijeËi su uglednoga glazbenog kritiËara New York Suna, koje moæda ponajbolje opisuju 146

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forward to singing before a Croatian audience.


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tu slavnu primadonu. Jedan od njezinih posljednjih trijumfa svakako je utjelovljenje Bizetove strastvene ciganke Carmen, kojom je oduπevila ljubitelje opere diljem svijeta i joπ jedanput dokazala svoj zvjezdani status operne dive. Nakon toga senzacionalnog uspjeha u Metropolitan operi, kojemu je, preko izravnoga satelitskog prijenosa, svjedoËila i hrvatska publika u rasprodanoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskog, Elina GaranËa prvi Êe put i uæivo zapjevati u Koncertnoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskog, 10. listopada 2010., uza Simfonijski orkestar Hrvatske radiotelevizije pod vodstvom Karela Marka Chichona. Koncert je dio njezine europske turneje u sklopu koje Êe, uz Hrvatsku, posjetiti ©vicarsku, NjemaËku i »eπku. Umjetnica s radoπÊu oËekuje susret s hrvatskom publikom, ali i joπ jedan siguran i ugodan let, o kojemu se brine hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka. Vrhunska usluga koju nudi poslovni razred Croatia Airlinesa u suglasju je s vrhunskim glazbenim doæivljajem πto nas oËekuje u Lisinskom. n 148

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t the age of seven my parents took me to Wagner’s Tannhäuser. I did not understand a thing and I was bored out of my mind so I left the theatre during the break, Elina confessed while telling the story of her first encounter with the opera. At that time, her favourite singer was Barbara Streisand. She also loved pop divas Whitney Houston and Mariah Carey, whose songs she often sung. She discovered the world of opera at the age of 17, owing to the record which featured, amongst other numbers, Norma’s famous aria Casta diva, as interpreted by the Australian coloratura soprano Joan Sutherland. Elina GaranËa is one of the biggest opera stars of today. The Latvia-born singer attracted attention when she performed the role of Giovanna Seymour in Donizetti’s opera Anna Bolena, after only having been given ten days’ notice. Victories at international singing competitions have opened the door for her to many of the world’s opera stages. She has appeared at major opera houses such as New York’s Metropolitan, London’s Royal Covent Garden, the Viennese and Bavarian State Operas, the Viennese Musikverein, the Opera Garnier in Paris, etc. She has recorded a dozen CDs and DVDs for major record labels. She is the winner of numerous awards, including being named singer of the year four times. The European Foundation for Culture awarded her the 2006 European Culture Prize in Music. Perhaps the best description of the famous prima donna comes from a well-known New York Sun critic who wrote: Ms. GaranËa has all the goods: musicality, technique, voice, confidence, smarts, dramatic range, and movie-star looks. One of her most recent triumphs is certainly her appearance in the role of Bizet’s hot-blooded gipsy Carmen. In this role she has delighted opera lovers worldwide and proven once again that she is a true opera star and a diva. After the sensational success at the Metropolitan Opera, which was broadcast via live satellite and viewed by a Croatian audience in the sold-out Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Elina GaranËa will perform live in the same concert hall on 10th October 2010, her first ever appearance in Croatia. She will be accompanied by the Symphony Orchestra of Croatian Radio Television, conducted by Karel Mark Chichon. The concert is part of her European tour, during which she will also appear in Switzerland, Germany and the Czech Republic. The artist is looking forward to singing before a Croatian audience, as well as looking forward to another safe and comfortable flight on the Croatian national airline. n


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KALENDAR DOGA–ANJA U HRVATSKOJ RUJAN/SEPTEMBER Osijek 13. osjeËki jesenski sajam/Osijek Autumn Fair (30. rujna-3. listopada/30 September-3 October), sajamski prostor Pampas/Pampas exhibition space Jesen u Tvri/Autumn in Tvra (28.-30. rujna/28-30 September), kulturno-umjetniËka manifestacija/ cultural and art manifestation Zagreb 6. FPS Internacionalni festival eksperimentalnog filma i videa/6th FPS International Experimental Film and Video Festival (21.-26. rujna/21-26 September), Studentski centar Koncert Guns n’ Roses - Chinese Democracy World Tour/Concert Guns n’ Roses - Chinese Democracy World Tour (24. rujna/24 September), Arena 5. srednjovjekovni dani na Medvednici/5th Medieval Days at Medvednica (25.-26. rujna/25-26 September) LISTOPAD/OCTOBER Dubrovnik Skycellar, muzej konavoskih vina/ Skycellar, Konavli wine museum (do 1. studenoga/till 1 November), –uroviÊa πpilja/–uroviÊa cave Perforacije - tjedan izvedbenih umjetnosti/Perforations - Week of Live Art 2010 (23.-25. listopada/23-25 October)

Lovran Marunada (15.-31. listopada/15-31 October), gastronomska feπta/gastronomic festivity Opatija Meunarodni spa i wellness sajam/International Spa and Wellness Fair (30.-31. listopada/30-31 October), hotel Kvarner/Kvarner Hotel Osijek Koncert Toni Cetinski/Concert Toni Cetinski (22. listopada/22 October), dvorana Gradski vrt/Gradski vrt concert hall Pula Pula Boat Fair (19.-22. listopada/19-22 October), meunarodni sajam proizvoaËa i distributera brodske opreme/international boat equipment manufacturers and distributors fair Koncert flaute, saks i prijatelji/ Concert Flute, Sax and Friends (31. listopada/31 October), Dom hrvatskih branitelja, ulaz slobodan/free admission Rijeka Perforacije - tjedan izvedbenih umjetnosti/Perforations - Week of Live Art 2010 (16.-17. listopada/16-17 October) Zadar Hrvatski Apoksiomen/Croatian Apoksiomen (do 31. listopada/till 31 October), izloæba/exhibition, Muzej antiËkog stakla/Museum of Antique Glass Zagreb Koncert ZagrebaËkoga komornog orkestra/Concert Zagreb Chamber Orchestra (29. listopada/29 October), Muzej Mimara/Mimara Museum Hrvatski jazz sabor/Croatian Jazz Assembly (1.-31. listopada/1-31 October), BP Jazz Club Zagreb World Music Festival Nebo (1.-31. listopada/1-31 October), Studentski centar Zagreb kom 5 (8.-12. listopada/8-12 October), meunardoni festival komorne glazbe/ international chamber music festival Hrvatski glazbeni zavod/The Croatian Music Institute Zagreb Film Festival (17.-23. listopada/17-23 October), Studentski centar

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS IN CROATIA Perforacije - tjedan izvedbenih umjetnosti/Perforations - Week of Live Art 2010 (18.-22. listopada/18-22 October), Muzej suvremene umjetnosti/Museum of Contemporary Art STUDENI/NOVEMBER Dubrovnik Koncerti Najljepπe skladbe velikih skladatelja/Concerts The most beautiful compositions by great composers (1.-31. studenoga/1-31 November), svakoga petka u crkvi sv. Spasa/every Friday in St. Salvation church Pula Economica (4.-6. studenoga/4-6 November), sajam æenskog poduzetniπtva/female enterpreneurship fair hotel Histria/Histria Hotel Zagreb Koncert Lady Gaga - The Monster Ball Tour/Concert Lady Gaga-The Monster Ball Tour (5. studenoga/5 November), Arena Koncert Sting - Simphonicity Tour/Concert Sting - Simphonicity Tour (8. studenoga/8 November), Arena Interliber (10.-14. studenoga/10-14 November), sajam knjiga/book fair, ZagrebaËki velesajam/Zagreb Fair 5. One Take Film Festival/5th One Take Film Festival (18.-20. studenoga/18-20 November), Kino Tuπkanac/Tuπkanac Cinema Cirque du Soleil - Saltimbanco (18.-21. studenoga/18-21 November), Arena Koncert Prince - ‘20Ten Tour/ Concert Prince - ‘20Ten Tour (28. studenoga/28 November), Arena

PROSINAC/DECEMBER Opatija Festival Ëokolade/Chocolate Festival (3.-5. prosinca/3-5 December), gastronomska manifestacija u opatijskim hotelima/gastronomic manifestation in Opatija’s hotels Pula Sa(n)jam knjige - 16. pulski festival knjige i autora/Sa(n)jam knjige - 16th Pula book and author festival (2.-10. prosinca/2-10 December), Dom hrvatskih branitelja Zagreb Koncert Angels in Harlem Gospel Choir/Concert Angels in Harlem Gospel Choir (4. prosinca/4 December), KD Vatroslav Lisinski/ Vatroslav Lisinski concert hall BoæiÊni sajam/Christmass Fair (17.-30. prosinca/17-30 December), ZagrebaËki velesajam/Zagreb Fair


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omunikacija je vaæna u svakodnevnom æivotu a joπ je vaænija u poslovanju. Ako æelite biti sigurni da Êe vam posao uroditi plodom pregovori, dogovori, koordinacije, javljanja s terena s toËnim i pravovremenim informacijama, su imperativ. Troπak telekomunikacijskih usluga pri tome, to zna svaki poduzetnik, nije zanemariv. Posebice za male tvrtke i obrtnike. OsluπkujuÊi potrebe svojih poslovnih korisnika, vodeÊi pruæatelj telekomunikacijskih usluga - HT, ponudio je moguÊnost znatnih uπteda kako u fiksnoj tako i u mobilnoj telefoniji. KoristeÊi usluge Super Business i Flex Team, mali poduzetnici i obrtnici sada svaki mjesec mogu razgovarati 30 posto viπe prema svim nacionalnim fiksnim mreæama, a za svakog novog Ëlana u paketima mobilne komunikacije ostvaruju 100 kuna popusta na raËunu. Na godiπnjoj razini, na ovaj naËin, πtede 1.200 kuna po novom prikljuËku ∑ koje mogu iskoristiti za nova ulaganja, a pored toga priËaju do 1.800 minuta viπe prema fiksnim mreæama ∑ za dodatne pregovore, dogovore, koordinaciju, javljanje s terena… Za ostvarenje ovih pogodnosti, sve πto korisnici trebaju uËiniti je istovremeno potpisati ugovorne obveze na 12 mjeseci za Super Business paket 100 ili 500 te 24 mjeseca za nove Ëlanove Flex Team 500 ili viπih tarifnih paketa. A ponuda je dostupna do 31. listopada. Super Business paketi 100 i 500 usluge su za fiksnu telefoniju. U mjeseËnoj naknadi nude 100 odnosno 500 minuta razgovora prema svim nacionalnim fiksnim mreæama kao i niz praktiËnih rjeπenja poput konferencijske veze i povratnog upita za troje sugovornika, prikaz broja pozivatelja, preusmjeravanje poziva te poziv na Ëekanju. Flex Team tarifni paketi mobilne telefonije omoguÊuju optimiziranje poslovanja tako πto svi zaposlenici dijele jedan iznos tarifnog paketa i korisnik dobiva samo jedan raËun. »lanovi tima razgovaraju po 0 kn/minuti, a svaki Ëlan dobiva i 100 MB podatkovnog prometa za surfanje putem mobilnog telefona. Za tvrtke koje povremeno zapoπljavaju dodatne radnike,

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 154 NOVOSTI/NEWS 157 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 162 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 165 FLOTA/FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 169 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 170 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 172 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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Priznanje IATA-e

Naπa je tvrtka primila joπ jedno vrijedno priznanje za unapreenje poslovnih procesa. RijeË je o certifikatu 2D BCBP Meunarodne udruge za zraËni promet, kojim je Croatia Airlinesu potvren platinasti status u uvoenju globalnog IATA projekta pod nazivom Simplifying the Business (StB), odnosno potprojekta (2-dimensional Bar Coded Boarding Pass). Naime, Croatia Airlines i prije zadanog roka (kraj 2010. godine) omoguÊio je izdavanje dvodimenzionalne bar-kodirane ukrcajne propusnice u svim odrediπtima, koja su opremljena potrebnom infrastrukturom za to. Tako je poboljπana putniËka usluga jer bar kodirana ukrcajna propusnica moæe se elektronski distribuirati i viπe je ne treba tiskati na skupi papir s magnetnim vrpcama, a istodobno je olakπan i proces registracije putnika uporabom naprednih ICT tehnologija i aplikacija kao πto su web check-in, mobilni check in ili self check in. Primjenom BCBP-a Croatia Airlines pruæio je putnicima bolju kontrolu putovanja i uπtedu vremena (izbjegavanje Ëekanja u zraËnoj luci), a IATA procjenjuje da Êe se implementacijom BCBP projekta na razini zrakoplovne industrije uπtedjeti oko 1.500,000.000 ameriËkih dolara na godinu. IATA Recognition

Our company has received another worthy recognition for upgrading its business processes ∑ the 2D BCBP Certificate awarded by the International Air Transport Association, confirming the platinum status in introducing the global IATA project named Simplifying the Business (StB) and the sub-project (2-dimensional Bar Coded Boarding Pass). Even before the set deadline (end of 2010), Croatia Airlines provided for the issuance of a two-dimensional bar-coded boarding pass at all destinations that are equipped with the necessary infrastructure. This resulted in better service for passengers because the bar-coded boarding pass can be electronically distributed and no longer requires printing on expensive paper and using magnetic tape. At the same time, the process of passengers’ registration has been facilitated through the use of advanced ICT technologies and applications such as web check-in, mobile check in and self check in. Through the implementation of BCBP, Croatia Airlines offers passengers better trip control and time saving (no waiting at airports), and IATA estimates that implementation of the 154

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BCBP project on the airline industry level will bring approximately USD 1, 500, 000 savings per year. Promjene uvjeta putovanja  

Promijenili smo uvjete u vezi s promjenom i refundacijom zrakoplovnih karata u domaÊem prometu. Tako sada omoguÊujemo promjene leta i kad u karti imate najniæe razrede knjiæenja (S, W), a promjena se naplaÊuje 100 kn po smjeru. Povrat novca za kartu nije dopuπten. Takoer, za viπe razrede knjiæenja u ekonomskom razredu (V, H, M, B i Y) omoguÊujemo vam moguÊnost povrata novca za kartu uz naknadu od 150 kn te promjene leta uz nadoplatu od 100 kn po smjeru.  Novac se ne vraÊa kao naknada za izdavanje zrakoplovne klarte (TSC). Changed travelling conditions 

We have changed the travelling conditions referring to changes and reimbursement of tickets in home traffic. We now offer flight changes even if your ticket contains the lowest booking class (S, W); changes are charged HRK 100 per route. There is no money return for the ticket. We offer money return for tickets for higher booking classes in economy class (V, H, M, B and Y) with a fee of HRK 150, and flight changes with an additional payment of HRK 100 per route. There is no money return for the ticket service charge (TSC). Nova usluga

U æelji da unaprijedimo naπe usluge i svojim putnicima olakπamo planiranje putovanja, na naπe mobilne stranice stavili smo red letenja, a mobilnim stranicama moæete pristupiti tako da u mobilni telefon upiπete www.croatiaairlines.com/mobile New service

With the aim of improving our service and making it easier for passengers to plan their trip, the timetable is available on our mobile pages. Our mobile pages can be accessed by entering www.croatiaairlines.com/mobile in your mobile phone. Novosti Star Alliancea

Croatia Airlines i Spanair, oba Ëlanovi Star Alliancea, potpisali su 23. lipnja ove godine ugovor o strateπkoj bilateralnoj suradnji, koji kompanijama omoguÊuje bolje pozicioniranje

na πpanjolskome i hrvatskom træiπtu, a putnicima izvrsnu svakodnevnu zraËnu povezanost Barcelone s Hrvatskom. Takoer, ta suradnja putnicima iz Hrvatske omoguÊuje i povezanost s drugim odrediπtima Spanaira preko Barcelone i Madrida. U sklopu ugovora putnici Croatia Airlinesa i Spanaira, od 30. lipnja mogu letjeti izmeu Hrvatske i ©panjolske svaki dan na zajedniËkim (code share) letovima. Croatia Airlines iz Zagreba u Barcelonu (i obratno) leti triput na tjedan ∑ utorkom, Ëetvrtkom i nedjeljom, a Spanair ponedjeljkom i srijedom. Osim toga, suradnja u prijevozu putnika ukljuËuje i letove Spanaira iz Barcelone u Dubrovnik v.v. (ponedjeljkom, utorkom, srijedom, Ëetvrtkom i petkom) te iz Madrida u Dubrovnik v.v. (utorkom i Ëetvrtkom). Putnici u sklopu suradnje dobivaju i mnoge druge pogodnosti. »esti putnici (frequent flyer) mogu skupljati milje na letovima obiju aviokompanija, a putnici poslovnog razreda i vlasnici zlatnih kartica mogu se koristiti i business loungeom. RijeË je o osmom code share ugovoru Croatia Airlinesa i avioprijevoznika u Ëlanstvu Star Alliancea. Star Alliance News

On June 23 2010, Croatia Airlines and Spanair, both members of Star Alliance, signed an agreement on strategic bilateral cooperation that provides both companies with a better positioning on the Spanish and Croatian markets and offers passengers a daily connection between Barcelona and Croatia. This cooperation also offers passengers from Croatia connections with other Spanair destinations via Barcelona and Madrid. As per contract, Croatia Airlines and Spanair passengers can fly from Croatia to Spain and vice-versa every day on code share flights, as of June 30. Croatia Airlines flies three times a week ∑ on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays ∑ from Zagreb to Barcelona (and vice-versa), and Spanair flies on Mondays and Wednesdays. In addition, the cooperation in passenger transport includes Spanair flights from Barcelona to Dubrovnik and vice-versa (on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays) and from Madrid to Dubrovnik and vice-versa (on Tuesdays and Thursdays). This cooperation offers other benefits for passengers, too. Frequent flyers can collect miles on flights provided by both companies, and passengers in business class and gold card holders can use the business lounge. This is the eighth code share agreement concluded between Croatia Airlines and air carriers that are members of Star Alliance.


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Ljubaznost, susretljivost i strpljenje recept su za zadovoljnog putnika. Good manners, helpfulness and patience are the recipe for a satisfied passenger.

Piše/By Gloria Gelo

Natalija KlariÊ: Sretna na na poslu Natalija KlariÊ radi kao referentica internetske i telefonske prodaje u Kontakt centru Croatia Airlinesa zadnjih godinu i pol. S navrπenih 26 godina zacijelo se ubraja meu naπe najmlae djelatnike, a zavrπila je Splitsko sveuËiliπte, smjer turizam i ugostiteljstvo. Tijekom studija radila je razliËite studentske poslove, a najzanimljivije joj je bilo na Plavom radiju, gdje je devet mjeseci radila kao novinarka. Ubrzo nakon diplome zapoπljava se u Croatia Airlinesu na sadaπnjemu radnome mjestu. Natalijin posao pruæanje je usluge rezervacije i prodaje karata preko telefona. Iako joj nije u opisu posla, rado Êe svakom putniku izaÊi u susret i pomoÊi oko bilo koje informacije nevezano za rezervaciju i prodaju karata. To je Ëesto, jer putnici nerijetko zamijene Croatia Airlines za ZraËnu luku Zagreb. Natalija je zadovoljna svojim poslom. Kao njegove prednosti istiËe izvrsnu radnu atmosferu, veliku kolegijalnost te to πto je priroda posla takva da ga ne nosi doma. Priznanje za izvrsno obavljanje svoga posla, πto se dogaa Ëesto, dobije kad putnica ili putnik traæi osobno nju, iako im rezervirati i prodati kartu moæe bilo koja kolegica ili kolega koji se jave na telefon. Naime, putnici su skloni ostvarivanju osobnijeg kontakta i Ëesto se veæu za Natalijine kolege, Ëije su ih se uËinkovitost i ljubaznost dojmile. Kao najvaænije u svome poslu Natalija istiËe ljubaznost, susretljivost i strpljivost u komunikaciji s putnicima. Bitno ih je strpljivo posluπati 156

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te im pruæiti sve potrebne informacije prije toËnog izvrπavanja njihova zahtjeva. Rad u smjenama od 8 do 14 sati te od 14 do 20 sati Nataliji omoguÊuje uspjeπno usklaivanje i planiranje privatnog vremena, koje najradije provodi s obitelji, dugogodiπnjim deËkom i prijateljima. ■

Natalija KlariÊ: Happy in her job Natalija KlariÊ has worked as an internet and telephone sales agent at the Croatia Airlines Contact Centre for a year and a half. At 26, she is one of our youngest employees. She graduated from Split University with a degree

in the hospitality industry. As a student, she did various temporary jobs, of which the most interesting was working for nine months as a journalist at Plavi Radio radio station. When she graduated, she joined Croatia Airlines as an internet and telephone sales agent. Natalija’s job is to make reservations and sell tickets over the phone. She goes out of her way to help passengers and give them extra information although this is not strictly in her job description. It often happens, for example, that passengers dial Croatia Airlines number instead of Zagreb Airport information desk and make inquiries unrelated to ticket reservation and sale. Natalia is happy in her job. She says its main advantages are an excellent work environment, helpful colleagues, and the fact that she does not have to take work home. The biggest reward is when a passenger asks to speak to her personally, which happens quite often, although any staff member who answers the phone could make the same reservation and sell them the same ticket. This is because passengers appreciate personal contact and often form an attachment to staff whose efficiency and professional manners have particularly impressed them. Natalija says that good manners, helpfulness and patience in communication with passengers are the main prerequisites of her job. It is important to listen to them patiently and provide them with all the necessary information before carrying out their wishes. Working in shifts from 8 in the morning to 2 in the afternoon or from 2 in the afternoon to eight in the evening allows Natalija to successfully juggle work and private life, which she likes to spend with her family, her long-term boyfriend and friends. ■


Osno­ve Mi­les & Mo­re pro­gra­ma

In­tro­du­cing Mi­les & Mo­re

Mi­les & Mo­re naj­ve­Êi je pro­gram na­gra­i­va­nja put­ni­ka u Eu­ro­pi i nu­di Ëla­no­vi­ma ra­zli­Ëi­te mo­guÊ­no­sti pri­kup­lja­nja mi­lja i ko­ri­πte­nja na­gra­da, kao i mno­ge priv­laË­ne po­god­no­sti. »la­no­vi pri­kup­lja­ju mi­lje ko­ri­ste­Êi se uslu­ga­ma broj­nih par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu. Mi­lje se bi­lje­æe za le­to­ve svih Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea i dru­gih kom­pa­ni­ja par­tne­ra, ali i za unaj­mlji­va­nje vo­zi­la, od­sje­da­nje u ho­te­li­ma ili po­tro­ πnju pre­ko kre­dit­nih kar­ti­ca Mi­les & Mo­re.

Mi­les & Mo­re is the gre­a­te­st fre­qu­ent flyer pro­gram­me in Eu­ro­pe of­fe­ring its mem­bers nu­me­ro­us po­ssi­bi­li­ti­es for col­lec­ting and re­de­ e­ming mi­les, as well as many at­trac­ti­ve pri­vi­le­ges. Mem­bers col­lect mi­les by using the ser­vi­ces of many par­tners in the pro­gram­me. Mi­les are cre­di­ted for flig­hts of all Star Al­li­an­ce mem­bers and ot­her air­li­ne par­tners, but al­so for ren­ting ve­hi­cles from rent-a-car par­tners or sta­ying in par­ti­ci­pa­ting ho­tels.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu! 5 ku­na = 1mi­lja - za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko ove kar­ti­ce, bi­lje­æi vam se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja n Dvo­s­tru­ke mi­lje - osva­ja­te za pla­Êa­nje tu­ri­stiË­kih aran­æma­na i zra­ko­plov­nih ka­ra­ta u Di­ners Club Tra­ve­lu n Pri­kup­ljaj­te na­grad­ne mi­lje svug­dje - jed­no­stav­no pla­Êaj­te svo­jom Di­ners Club kar­ti­com na bi­lo ko­jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro­daj­nih mje­sta u zem­lji i ino­zem­s­tvu. n Osvo­ji­te joπ vi­πe mi­lja - ko­ri­πte­nje osta­lih po­god­no­sti Di­ners Clu­ba po­put be­s­plat­nih onli­ne uslu­ga, e-pla­Êa­nja ili traj­nih na­lo­ga do­no­si vam do­dat­ne mi­lje. n 2 kar­ti­ce - 1 ra­Ëun Mi­les & Mo­re - ko­ri­sti­te se isto­dob­no pri­vat­nom i po­slov­nom kar­ti­com Di­ners Clu­ba i Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa, pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje zbra­ja­ju se na va­πemu ra­Ëu­nu Mi­les & Mo­re.

Ap­ply for yo­ur Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes cre­dit card! n 5 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col­lect 1mi­le. n Earn do­u­ble mi­les - for pa­ying pac­ka­ge to­urs and flig­ht tic­kets at Di­ners Club Tra­vel n Col­lect award mi­les ever­ywhe­re - sim­ply pay with yo­ur Di­ners Club Card in any of 12 mil­li­on DC of­fi­ces in Cro­a­tia or abro­ad n Col­lect ex­tra award mi­les - by using ot­her Di­ners Club be­ne­fits, such as free onli­ne ser­vi­ces, in­ter­net ban­king and e-pa­ying, standing or­ders etc. n 2 cre­dit car­ds - 1 Mi­les & Mo­re mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt - use yo­ur pri­va­te and bu­si­ne­ss card to col­lect award mi­les on the sa­me mem­ ber­ship ac­co­unt.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! n 7 kuna potrošenih u inozemstvu = 1 milja U suradnji s Erste Card Clubom, Croatia Airlines objavio je prvu companion karticu u Hrvatskoj! Svi postojeÊi i buduÊi korisnici Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditne kartice mogu zatraæiti i svoju Visa kreditnu karticu.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! n 7 kuna spent abroad = 1 mile Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued the first companion credit card in Croatia! All current and future Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card holders have an opportunity to apply for the VISA credit card as well.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express! n 4 ku­ne = 1 mi­lja - za sva­ke 4 ku­ne po­tro­πe­ne pre­ko Pre­mi­um kar­ ti­ce bi­lje­æi se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja, od­no­sno za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko Stan­dard kar­ti­ce n 2500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce - za no­ve osnov­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke i 1250 mi­lja do­bo­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke n 1500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve osnov­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke i 750 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke n Dvo­s­tru­ke na­grad­ne mi­lje - za po­tro­πnju u po­slov­ni­ca­ma Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa i Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces PBZ Car­da n UËla­nje­nje u Pri­o­rity Pa­ss bez nak­na­de te pri­stup u vi­πe od 450 VIP sa­lo­na u zraË­nim lu­ka­ma

Ap­ply for yo­ur Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express cre­dit card! n 4 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 4 HRK spent via Pre­mi­um card, you col­lect 1mi­le, and for every 5 HRK spent via Stan­dard card you col­lect 1 mi­le. n 2.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Pre­mi­um card users and 1.250 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Pre­mi­um card users. n 1.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Stan­dard card users and 750 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Stan­ dard card users. n Earn do­u­ble award mi­les - using the card to pay for tra­vels at Cro­ a­tia Air­li­nes sa­les of­fi­ces and Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces of PBZ Card. n Free Pri­o­rity Pa­ss enrol­lment- it ena­bles you to ac­ce­ss in­to mo­re than 450 VIP air­port lo­un­ges

Ra­zre­di Ëlan­s­tva i po­god­no­sti Ko­ri­πte­njem uslu­ga par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu pri­kup­lja­te na­grad­ne mi­lje ko­je za­mje­nju­je­te za na­gra­de i sta­tu­sne mi­lje ko­je odre­u­ju vaπ Ëlan­ski sta­tus i po­god­no­sti πto ih os­tva­ru­je­te. Sta­tu­sne mi­lje pri­kup­lja­ju se re­do­vi­tim le­to­vi­ma slje­de­Êih zra­ko­plov­ nih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS i svi zra­ko­plov­ni par­tne­ri iz mre­æe Star Al­li­an­ce, te Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Sva­ka ta­ko os­tva­re­na mi­lja bi­lje­æi se i kao sta­tu­sna i kao na­grad­na mi­lja. Mi­lje HON Cir­cle sta­tu­sne su mi­lje ko­je se pri­kup­lja­ju le­to­vi­ma slje­de­ Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­st­ri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Ti­ers and be­ne­fits By using the Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners’ ser­vi­ces mem­bers col­lect award mi­les, which are tra­ded in for awar­ds; and sta­tus mi­les, which de­ter­ mi­ne a mem­ber’s mem­ber­ship sta­tus and pri­vi­le­ges. Sta­tus mi­les can be ac­cru­ed on sc­he­du­led flig­hts ope­ra­ted by Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­ nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, all Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners, Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mi­le ac­cru­ed is re­cor­ded as both a sta­tus and an award mi­le. HON Cir­cle mi­les are sta­tus mi­les that you col­lect on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­st­ri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

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Uz 35.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja pri­kup­lje­nih u jed­noj ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni, ste­Êi Êe­te sta­tus Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler, a za 100.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja u ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni oËe­ku­je vas sta­tus Se­na­tor. »la­no­vi ko­ji pri­ku­pe naj­ma­nje 600.000 HON Cir­cle mi­lja u ra­zdob­lju od dvi­je uza­stop­ne ka­len­dar­ske go­di­ne, stje­Ëu sta­tus HON Cir­cle.

With 35,000 sta­tus mi­les col­lec­ted in one ca­len­dar ye­ar mem­bers earn the Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler sta­tus, with 100,000 sta­tus mi­les the Se­na­tor sta­tus, and mem­bers who col­lect at le­a­st 600,000 HON Cir­cle mi­les wit­hin two con­se­cu­ti­ve ca­len­dar ye­ars, earn the HON Cir­cle sta­tus.

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­gea pri­li­kom le­to­va s ne­kom od Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea - pred­no­st na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru po­slov­nog ra­zre­da - 40 kg prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Use of the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­ges whi­le flying with a Star Al­li­an­ce Mem­ber - Wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Check-in at the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss co­un­ter - Free bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - pre­du­jam od 50.000 mi­lja - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge te Star Gold Lo­un­ge par­tne­ra u Star Al­li­an­ceu - vi­πi pri­o­ri­tet na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru prvog ra­zre­da - osi­gu­ra­no mje­sto na le­tu za re­zer­va­ci­je do 48 sa­ti odnosno do 72 sata una­pri­jed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto ma­nje mi­lja za su­put­ni­ka na na­grad­nom le­tu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - do­dat­nih 20 kg ili do­dat­ni ko­mad prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elek­tron­ska va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­ gra­de), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa

Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ted by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Dolo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - 50,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Ac­ce­ss to the Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo­un­ges of Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners - High wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Fir­st Cla­ss check-in - Bo­o­king gu­a­ran­tee up to 48 or 72 ho­urs in advan­ce depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mi­le­a­ge di­sco­unt for an ac­com­pan­ying per­son on flig­ht awar­ds depending on the airline - Ad­di­ti­o­nal 20 kg bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce or an ad­di­ti­o­nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - 2 elec­tro­nic up­gra­de vo­uc­hers and two more for every status retention HON Cir­cle pri­vi­le­ges - All exi­sting Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve bo­nus of 25 per cent - 100,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Se­na­tor sta­tus for yo­ur spo­u­se or par­tner depending on the airline - 6 elec­tro­nic Up­gra­de Vo­uc­hers and 6 more for every status retention - Ad­di­ti­o­nal be­ne­fits of­fe­red by Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners, ro­un­ding off the tra­vel ex­pe­ri­en­ce

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa HON Cir­cle - sve po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus od 25 po­sto - pre­du­jam od 100.000 mi­lja - Sta­tus Se­na­tor za su­pru­æni­ka ili par­tne­ra, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - πe­st elek­tron­skih va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), te joπ šest prigodom zadræavanja statusa - do­dat­ne po­god­no­sti ko­je nu­de par­tne­ri pro­gra­ma osi­gu­ra­va­ju­Êi je­din­s­tve­no isku­s­tvo pu­to­va­nja Tro­πi­te mi­lje Pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje za­mje­nju­je­te za mnoge na­gra­de: nagradne kar­te, pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), ra­zli­Ëi­te nagra­de ko­ji­ma se mo­æe­te ko­ri­sti­ti pri pu­to­va­nju (ho­tel­ski smje­πtaj, unaj­mlji­ va­nje vo­zi­la). 158

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Spend mi­les You can ex­chan­ge col­lec­ted award mi­les for awar­ds pre­pa­red for you: award tic­kets, up­gra­des, va­ri­o­us tra­vel awar­ds.


CROATIA AIRLINES

159


Za oglaπivaËe: Ako ste zainteresirani za oglaπavanje u djeËjoj knjiæici Supi ili za neki drugi oblik poslovne suradnje, slobodno nas kontaktirajte. marketing@croatiaairlines.hr +385 1 616 00 16

Hello!

Zovem se Supi i glavni sam junak djeËjeg stripa koji dobivaju sva djeca na letovima Croatia Airlinesa. Iz broja u broj moæete pratiti moje nove pustolovine. Sova, moj najbolji prijatelj, i ja uvijek smo puni iznenaenja i veselih priËa koje æelimo podijeliti s vama. S nama moæete nauËiti mnogo korisnih stvari, kao npr. kako se pripremiti za putovanje zrakoplovom te upoznati nove gradove. Osim priËe, oËekuju vas i razliËite igrice, bojanke i najvaænije - NAGRADNA IGRA!!! Posjetite moju internetsku stranicu www.croatiaairlines.com, gdje moæete isprintati cijelu knjiæicu, odabrati ponuene igre i zabaviti se. Vaš prijatelj Supi

My name is Supi and I’m the hero of the comic book given to children on Croatia Airlines flights. Every comic book tells a new story about my adventures. There are always lots of surprises and funny stories, that my friend Sova and I wish to share with you. We can also teach you a lot, such as how to prepare for a flight and discover new cities. In addition to the story, you will find various games, coloring pictures and the most important - our PRIZE GAME! Visit my website www.croatiaairlines.com where you can print out the comic book, play the games and have fun.

160

CROATIA AIRLINES

Your friend Supi

Sara Šabašov

Bok!

Karla Tomac

Laura John

For advertisers: If you are interested in advertising in the children’s comic book or in some other form of cooperation, please contact us. marketing@croatiaairlines.hr +385 1 616 00 16


Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

SreÊko Horvat

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte. Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ? Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja. Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa. Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 15. studenoga 2010. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska. Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

IME PREZIME DATUM RO–ENJA ULICA I BROJ PO©TANSKI BROJ GRAD DRÆAVA TEL. E-MAIL

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri


Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Martina Horvat

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets. The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ? Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine. You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 15th November 2010 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia. Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment. - reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate


Miles & More Broj leta/ Flight number

TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Dræava/Country

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Mjesec/ Dan/ Month Day

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations. Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin. Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

Poljski/ Polish

©panjolski/ Spanish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation. If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Francuski/ Engleski/ Talijanski/ NjemaËki/ French English Italian German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

d

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.


Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.


Davne 1910. zapoËela je SAMSONITE priËa… The SAMSONITE story began way back in 1910.

The future is light. L’avenir est à la légèreté.

2010

Danas, 2010. SAMSONITE, vodeÊa svjetska kompanija slavi svoj 100. rodjendan ! I zato, sa zadovoljstvom: Putnicima Croatia Airlines-a darujemo 20 % popusta* na SAMSONITE asortiman u svim MARAS trgovinama * Popust se moæe ostvariti predoËenjem boarding karte ili potvrde o rezervaciji u MARAS trgovinama u razdoblju od 15.10. ∑ 15.12.2010. Datum leta nije vezan uz navedeni period. Popust se ne odnosi na sniæene i na artikle na akciji. Adrese MARAS trgovina na www.maras.hr

Today, in 2010, SAMSONITE is a leading global company which is celebrating its 100th anniversary. On this occasion, with great satisfaction, we are offering Croatia Airlines passengers a 20 per cent discount* on the entire SAMSONITE product range in all MARAS stores. *The discount is valid upon presentation of a boarding pass or a reservation confirmation in MARAS stores during the period from 15st October through st 15 December. The flight date is not tied to the discount period. The discount does not apply to products on sale and promotional offers. To locate a MARAS store, please go to www.maras.hr

1910

SAMSONITE i CROATIA AIRLINES ….. jer povjerenje je najvaænije. SAMSONITE and CROATIA AIRLINES ∑ because trust is what matters the most.

www.samsonite.com www.maras.hr

Ovlaπteni zastupnik za SAMSONITE Authorised SAMSONITE dealer


U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektronskih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektronski satovi, elektronski stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI!

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobro doπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uvela je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. 162

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Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo s raznim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dozvoljeno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMO∆ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.


ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Glede cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE

RESTRICTED ITEMS

All checked-in baggage must have the passenger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board. The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue serving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial twoway transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SERVICE ON BOARD

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Aegean Airlines has joined Star Alliance Making it easier to travel all over Greece For business or leisure, in style. I’ve earned it.

Sop h i a Kok osal ak i Fash i on Desi g n er an d St ar A l l i an ce G ol d St at u s

st aral l i an ce.com

Information correct as at 09/2010


FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi A320-200, A319-100, i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

A320-200

A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

2

2

(1 unajmljen / 1 leased)

A320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

A319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

St. Petersburg

Chisinau

Turin Genoa

Rijeka

Bari

Palermo Catania

Partneri / Partners:

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

P

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

1

C

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

D

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks) Baggage Prtljaga

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

N

Newstand Novinarnica

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta. Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket. U SPLITU, DUBROVNIKU i RIJECI autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova. In SPLIT, DUBROVNIK and RIJEKA airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the flight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati. Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna. Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00 and 11.00 hours. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30 and 21.00. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (do 30. listopada 2010.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (until 30 October 2010):

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30

7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

9.00 10.00 11.00 11.30

12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30

14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30

18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30

20.00

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 9.00 8.00 9.30 8.30 10.30

11.30 12.00 12.30

13.00 13.30 14.00

14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00

17.30 18.00 18.30

19.00 19.30 20.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-305, 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu i Splitu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb and Split is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz Zagreba polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in Zagreb are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI?

Alma HodæiÊ

Dragi putnici! Dolazi nam prelijepa, πarena, opojna  jesen. Paleta boja toga godiπnjeg doba neiscrpna je kao i moguÊnosti kreativnog izraæavanja fotografijom. Ulovite stoga trenutak svoga æivota ili zabiljeæite bilo πto zanimljivo iz svoga okruæja, poπaljite nam fotografije i moæda osvojite privlaËne nagrade. Autora fotografije Marka PogaËara odabrali smo kao najboljega u ovom broju te ga nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Martinu BukaË i Stylianosa Vranasa. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade. Dear Passengers, A wonderful, colourful, intoxicating autumn is upon us. The autumn’s colour palette is inexhaustible in terms of the range of opportunities it offers, just like photographic creativity. Capture a moment in your life; commit to photographic memory an interesting scene from your environment; send us your photos and one of the attractive prizes may be yours. Marko PogaËar is the author of the best photo in this issue. He will be rewarded with two return Croatia Airiness tickets. Martina BukaË and Stylianos Vranas will receive our promotional packages. Keep on sending us your photos. More valuable prizes await in the following issue of our magazine.

U potrazi za Ëudesnim. In pursuit of wonder

Paola JukiÊ

Volim putovati jer tek kad odem, shvatim kako sam blizu ili daleko mjestima i ljudima. I like to travel. Only when I leave do I realize how close to or far away I am from people and places.

Putujem da pomaknem granice ljepote, doæivljaja i svakodnevice. I travel to move the boundaries of beauty, experience and everyday life.

Nikolina Novak

Stylianos Vranas

Otkriti i uloviti ljepotu svijeta. To discover and capture the beauty of the world.

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CROATIA AIRLINES


Putovanje pruæa osjeÊaj slobode. Travelling makes you feel free.

Sophie Mcmillan

Marko PogaËar - Prva nagrada/First prize

Putovati, biti u stranom svijetu, daleko od kuÊe, isto je kao gledati film u kinu. Odvija se u tiπini. Traveling, being abroad, far away from home is like attending a movie. It is done in silence.

Sandra Bahun

Michel Wambach

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Putovanje moæe potrajati, a najbolji je trenutak kad se stigne na odrediπte. Travelling can be a long journey, but the best part is when you finally reach your destination.

Volim putovati jer u meni se probudi maËak. Travelling awakens a tomcat in me.

Volim putovati jer tako mogu vidjeti svijet iz bajke. Travelling allows me to take a peak at a fairytale world.

Martina BukaË

Ivana RoπËiÊ

Volim putovati - da ne putujem, nikad ne bih doæivjela da me πminka beduinka. I like to travel. If I did not travel, I would have never had a Bedouin woman apply make up on my face.

CROATIA AIRLINES

171


ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team Tel. +385 (0) 91 77 312 Brojevi telefonskog check in-a / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62, 361-63 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63, 361-64 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 117 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow,

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ADDRESSES Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula Ulica Carrarina 8, 52100 Pula, Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyto@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Ul. Dame Gruev 3, 1000 Skoplje, Tel. (+389-2) 3115-858, 3296-967 Fax (+389-2) 3114-203 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpto@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar Poljana Natka Nodila 7, 23 000 Zadar, Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 343-045 Fax (+385-23) 312-930 zadto@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Atena / Athens Intermodal Air (GSA) 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Barcelona Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Bratislava CK Blue Sky Travel (GSA) 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Istanbul ZENITH Services (GSA) Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Podgorica OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL (GSA) Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 Prag / Praha / Prague CK Blue Sky Travel (GSA) Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 Priπtina / Prishtina Airtour (GSA) Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd (GSA) 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America (GSA) 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services (GSA) 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Travel Ltd. NZ (GSA) PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Daruma Corporation (GSA) 106 Liberty Hill 3, 3-30-5 Yakumo, Meguro-Ku Tokyo 152 Tel. (+81-3) 5701-5651 Fax (+81-3) 5701-5652


inflight jesen 2010  

inflight jesen 2010

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