From Jewish corner to working class Spanish barrio, village-like Lavapiés’ history is as colourful as its ubiquitous ochre and dusky pink balconies, which hang over its maze of cobblestone streets. Located southwest of the city centre, Tirso de Molina Square marks its northern boundary, bordered to the south by Embajadores metro station. Originally it was set beyond the city walls, and in many ways Lavapiés is still an outsider, marching to the beat of its own drum. It has an emerging underground culture, and yet traditions still run deep. Old converges with new – Cine Doré, a beloved 1920s cinema, is situated just four
DID YOU KNOW?
A portmanteau of ‘lava’ (meaning wash), and ‘pies’ (meaning feet), Lavapiés translates as “wash your feet”, after the fountain that once stood in its namesake square where locals did, well, exactly this.
blocks from graffitied La Tabacalera, a former tobacco factory-turned-community-arts-space. Straddling both worlds is vibrant indoor market, El Mercado de Lavapiés, which hosts free Swing Dancing and Salsa lessons on Sundays. The barrio’s ‘pay what you can afford’ bookstores and free admission days at Reina Sofía mean you don’t need to show up with deep pockets. As well as throwing its fair share of fiestas, Lavapiés pulls out all the stops for Chinese New Year and Ramadan, a clue to its multiculturalism, also reflected in an eclectic food scene. Take your pick from traditional tapas haunts and hip Bao hole-in-the-walls, to Moroccan teahouses and Senegalese restaurants like Baobab in Nelson Mandela Square. But it’s still a barrio that packs a castizo (genuine) Madrileño punch, with old-school taverns like Antonio Sánchez and Bodegas Alfaro. You could while away several hours at treelined Calle Ave María and Calle Argumosa – both strewn with animated bars and street-side terrazas, that make for the perfect tapeo (tapas crawl).
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PASTELERÍA SALAMAT For the sweet taste of Syria in the heart of Madrid, follow your nose to this unassuming bakery, said to have the stickiest and crunchiest baklava in town! These bite sized parcels are baked fresh every morning by owner Yahid, a third-generation baker hailing from Aleppo. Don’t be surprised if he offers you a cardamom-laced black tea on the house. It’s the perfect accompaniment to dulces árabes (Middle Eastern pastries) like Ma’amoul; a buttery date-paste stuffed cookie. Calle del Tribulete, 10, +34 666 62 31 37