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EAT.DRINK . . . ENJOY Welcome to Eat.Drink, a celebration of the Mornington Peninsula and the extraordinary range of culinary delights to be found here. The brainchild of Lisa Walton, her partner Archie Mitchell and business partner Roberto Biguzzi, Eat.Drink will take you on a voyage of discovery through our best eateries, wineries, distilleries, cideries and breweries, and the incredibly dedicated and talented people behind them. “I’ve had a highly styled, dedicated food and wine book on the back-burner for over 16 years,” Lisa says. “Roberto’s passion for the area’s produce, the amazing restaurants, cafes, breweries and wineries scattered from coast to coast, has been pivotal in it coming about. We’ve come together to showcase over 100 foodie hot spots authentic to the Mornington Peninsula and Frankston and the produce that springs from them. Places where the love of what we grow and how we present it to the world connects us as a whole. We have so much to offer. This guide to the region’s best food and beverage producers represents that.”
Born in Rye, Lisa has been publishing newspapers and magazines — including Mornington Peninsula Magazine — for almost four decades, and throughout this time she has grown even more connected to the Peninsula and what it is capable of producing. “Even back in the 1960s there were some amazing eateries which were ahead of their time. With such a pristine environment, market gardeners, fishers, farmers and wonderful cooks and chefs, the Peninsula has always been a place where people have come to eat, drink and celebrate life. It is just what we love to do here.”
We may eat and drink to survive, but the passion with which our sustenance is shaped, grown and given is spiritually boundless. Come gather around our communal tables. Let Eat.Drink show you where. Please share and enjoy.
OUR COVER Share the amazing Peninsula bounty at Mr Jackson, see page 63 Geese waddle among the vineyards at Paringa Estate Winery & Restaurant see page138
www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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CONTENTS
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p5. Welcome
p8. Richard Cornish - Come and see why we love where we live
p12. Max Allen - Raise a glass to our wonderful drink-makers
p70. Safety Beach, Dromana, McCrae
p86. Farm Gate Produce List, Map and Calendar
p92. Rosebud, Capel Sound, Tootgarook, Rye
p128. Main Ridge, Red Hill, Arthurs Seat, Merricks, Shoreham, Point Leo
p156. Somers, Balnarring, Bittern, Hastings, Tyabb
p164. Frankston & surrounds
eatdrinkmornpen
p16. Mount Eliza, Mornington, Mount Martha, Moorooduc
p66. Beer, Cider & Spirits Trail
p69. 3 Farmers and a Chef
p106. Blairgowrie, Sorrento, Portsea
p114. St Andrews Beach to Flinders
p122. Mornington Peninsula Vignerons wine touring map
p182. Interview George Calombaris
p186. Directory
p190. Annual Events
www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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Richard Cornish, the son of Shoreham dairy farmers, is one of the most respected food writers in the nation. His understanding of where food comes from and how it is grown has led him around the world. He’s written six books on Spanish food (five cookbooks with Frank Camorra from Movida and one with Gourmet Pilgrim), another book on Mexican food, and has co-written several others, including Phillippa’s Home Baking. He was the acclaimed commentator on Iron Chef Australia and has a weekly column in Fairfax Good Food in The Age and Sydney Morning Herald called Brain Food. His vision for sustainable food events that helped create food communities and offer great experiences to guests have been part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, where he has been a creative director and consultant for more than a decade. His love and support for regional Australia continues with his involvement as a consultant and mentor to regional groups across the country, including the farmers and producers of the Mornington Peninsula.
Come and see why we love where we live BY RICHARD CORNISH
Exploring the countryside for great food and wine, from the villages in the hills to the townships by the sea, is an essential part of the Mornington Peninsula experience. Life down here is a packed calendar, from the wine vintage in autumn to the flush of avocados in summer, the cherries in spring and our long list of festivals. The year-round dedication of our chefs, sommeliers and front-ofhouse brings you, the customer, an experience that speaks uniquely of this little patch of the planet that we all can call home — even if it’s just for the weekend. THE PENINSULA CLIMATE
The Peninsula has its own unique micro-climate. Not a big place, it is just 40km long and 15-20km wide. It is surrounded by water on three sides: Bass Strait to the south, Western Port Bay to the east and Port Phillip Bay to the west. The cool, clear, rugged waters welling up from down south can pull the temperature down, while the sheer mass of both bays acts as a baffle for the hot northerlies in summer and cold southwesterlies in winter. This means the Peninsula is cooler than Melbourne in summer and warmer than much of surrounding Victoria in winter. Down the centre of the Peninsula runs a long, wooded ridge dotted with farms surrounded by stringy bark and ghost gum forest. At the peak of this ridge is a 330m outcrop called Arthurs Seat. When the moisture-laden air moves in across the sea and bay, it flows up the outcrop, gets cold and dumps the water on the countryside, about a quarter more of the rainfall that Melbourne experiences. This is great
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for the grass, the trees and the rainwater tanks, making the fields green and the creeks flow throughout the year.
BAYS AND BEACHES
With its bleached limestone cliffs and azure blue sea, the southern end of Port Phillip Bay could double for the Aegean. Protected from the rolling swell of Bass Strait, its golden, sandy, bay beaches are summer playgrounds where locals and visitors mingle, cool off, play and splash about. A day at the beach is often followed by a cold drink in a bayside bar or a get-together for a shared meal in a bistro or restaurant; shutters opened wide for the cooling, westerly breeze. On the other side of the Peninsula are the Western Port beaches, little coves at the end of sandy roads, protected from the hot northerly winds and with million-dollar views out to Phillip Island. Enhance the prospect of a day at the beach by a trip to the great local stores, cellar doors and farm gates. Assemble a basket packed with local cheese, ham, olives and bread and some locally made beverages on ice in the Esky. Thousands of childhood memories are created on these familiar bays and beaches that for many are an extension of the family home.
THE FISHERS
Just off the coast of Flinders, a series of orange buoys bob about in the gentle swell. Under these are long lines of rope on which grow large, native blue mussels. Thriving in some of the cleanest water in the country, big, meaty Flinders mussels are sold off the boat at the Flinders Pier and in restaurants around the Peninsula. Similar conditions allow mussels to be sustainably farmed off Mount Martha and Dromana. Mornington Peninsula mussels are famed for their plump flesh and sweet taste. They are a perfect match to the coolclimate wines grown just a few kilometres inland from the farms. Wild-catch fishing has always been a part of life on the Peninsula, and despite the gradual closure of commercial fisheries in Port Phillip eatdrinkmornpen
SHOPATE CAFE & STORE P.28
Bay, there are still a handful of families fishing for white-fleshed fish in the lower reaches of Port Phillip Bay. If you see Port Phillip flathead or whiting on the menu of one of our restaurants, you can be assured it is fresh and straight off the boat. Same goes for the scallops and Bass Strait bugs.
BUSH AND FOREST
When the autumn rains fall on the warm, rich soils, a flurry of underground fungal activity sends up great swathes of pine mushrooms, slippery jacks and field mushrooms. Chefs armed with a stubby knife and wicker basket comb the countryside for fresh forest mushrooms. These make the perfect base for a ragu with pasta, or a side with lamb, and are always a match for a Peninsula pinot noir. The cool, clear waters of the forest creeks are also home to meadows of watercress, forageable food to accompany a perfectly seared steak. Almost 3000ha of national park cover the Peninsula, intersected with hundreds of kilometres of coastal walking paths and tracks following the course of babbling brooks. We’ve noticed people building an appetite before a late lunch by taking in some of these wellsignposted tracks meandering through the bush and forest — some finishing conveniently close to some of our best pubs and restaurants.
THE FARMERS
The deep, red, rich soil that covers a lot of the Peninsula grows some of the best pasture in the state, with generational graziers growing award-winning beef and lamb. They are joined by a new wave of small-scale farmers who raise true free-range pigs, from which they produce outstanding hams and smallgoods. Down on the sandy country near Boneo and Baxter are some of the most productive market gardens in the nation, producing everyday vegetables not only for our chefs and stores but also for the big supermarkets. Together with the orchardists who continue to grow sensational stone fruit, pears and apples, the Peninsula remains a true food bowl. Throughout the year many keep their farm gates open, so everyone can buy the www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
freshest and the best direct from the farmer.
THE VIGNERONS
It was 40 years ago that winemaker Nat White planted his first vines at Main Ridge. He is considered the man who kick-started the renaissance of the Mornington Peninsula as a premier winemaking region. Award-winning wines were made in the 1880s; South Australian wine house Seppelt planted out a large vineyard in the 1960s, only for it to be destroyed by fire in 1967. Today 200 vineyards and around 50 wineries are making some of the most desired coolclimate chardonnays and pinot noirs in the nation. In recent years, winemakers have recognised the Peninsula as also very suitable to make great, textural pinot gris. Enjoying Peninsula wine with a meal always connects you back to the land where it was made and is a great way of experiencing the Peninsula way of life wherever you are.
THE CHEFS
Given how good is the life and how beautiful the Peninsula scenery, it is no wonder so many award-winning chefs call this part of the world home. Many come from across the country and the globe to make a laid-back life for themselves. Others are Peninsula natives who, having travelled the planet cooking in the best restaurants and garnering a lifetime of skill, return to their roots to raise the bar. Together they have created some of the most highly awarded restaurants, boutique hotels, casual eateries and above-average everyday bistros. These serve fine meals every day all across the Peninsula to suit every person and every occasion.
EAT DRINK MORNINGTON PENINSULA
When you taste a glass of chardonnay or eat a plate of mussels down here, you are tasting the very heart and soul of the Mornington Peninsula. To eat and drink around this part of the world is not only taking part of its way of life — you are literally taking it in.
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THE BOYZ 4 BREAKIE P.64 PETIT TRACTEUR BISTRO P.149 MCCLELLAND CAFE P.166 PARINGA ESTATE WINERY & RESTAURANT P.138
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eatdrinkmornpen
ALATONERO P.76
www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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The sea breeze plays in the rigging of the yachts moored at Mornington. Tucked into the sweeping arm of the ochre-hued rocky point, this is always hive of activity as yachties arrive to take their craft out to sea and visitors wander down to stroll along the pier or have fish and chips by the water while watching the sun set. Generally, the locals along this stretch of the coast identify with the sea. While Mount Martha and Mount Eliza rise above the bay, offering snatches of blue water and panoramic views of Port Phillip Bay, Mornington is nestled along the banks of Tanti Creek and has a long history as a fishing village, the last of the professional fishermen closing up shop in just the past few years. Attracted to the broad, leafy streets, access to some of the best schools in the state and, of course, proximity to clean sandy beaches, this trio of villages has become some of the most desired real estate for families. With that comes a broad range of really good value dining experiences, from upmarket pizza with great wine lists to incredibly popular and well-presented global food venues. CafÊ culture reigns supreme here with cafes dotted along the well-traversed shopping strips but also tucked away in industrial estates, on farms or in quirky residential spots, and some with sweeping views across the bay. A short drive from the coastal villages are some of Victoria’s best wineries, some with chefs preparing exceptional food to match equally exceptional wine. Add to this a new wave of wine bars and the thriving beachside pub scene and you have a lively and exciting local food and wine culture.
MOUNT ELIZA MORNINGTON MOUNT MARTHA MOOROODUC
the rocks
The Rocks is one of the Mornington Peninsula’s must-visit food establishments, catering to all in a wonderful waterfront location. Owned by the De Santis family, who have more than 30 years’ experience operating successful restaurants in the area, The Rocks opened in 2001 and has since become a bona fide institution, growing in popularity among locals and visitors alike each year.
Situated on the water’s edge, the award-winning eatery’s location is something spectacular. The Rocks boasts panoramic views of the magical Port Phillip Bay and Mornington harbour where, on a clear summer night, the sky transforms into a pink canvas stained with creamy dollops of lavender and long streaks of apricot reflected on the rippling surface. If you’re really lucky, you might even see a pod of dolphins leaping from the waves as you sip a ‘rocktail’ on the balcony. Whether you’re enjoying a family lunch or dinner, a glass of wine or a morning coffee, the outlook at The Rocks is ever-changing but always breathtaking. Inspired by the jaw-dropping coastal location, the menu at The Rocks has a strong seafood focus and integrates flavours of the world. It brims with a dynamic selection of fresh fish, from snapper and flounder to barramundi and bay mullet, as well as calamari and raw options like shucked oysters and sashimi served on ice. There’s even a live tank that’s home to top-of-the-line lobsters, mud crabs, abalone and other crustacea. An Asian influence is apparent in it’s superb selection of dumplings, buns and sliders, and it also takes pointers from the Mediterranean, where the whole-fish approach
The Rocks
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1 Schnapper Point Dve, Mornington I
www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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is favoured. Guests are encouraged to pick their own fish, weigh it, and chat with elite chefs working in the open kitchen as it’s prepared to perfection, an interactive experience that creates a fish market feeling you’ll be hard-pressed to come across anywhere else. And the best part? The food is the freshest you’ll find! The team buy straight from the boat when they can and, when hunting for mussels, they need look no further than the farm right on their doorstep. They care about delivering only the best local ingredients. Passionate, enthusiastic and meticulous, the team at The Rocks support sustainable fishing practices - every dish on their menu has been extensively researched to minimise the impact on fish populations and the marine environment. Superlative in every way, it’s no wonder queues are a common sight outside the waterfront restaurant, especially on weekends. There’s a vibrant atmosphere in The Rocks, one fitting for an eatery that makes high-end seafood accessible to everyone. In partnership with the Mornington Yacht Club, The Rocks also offers an expansive and recently renovated function space that includes a seaview balcony – perfect for that special event!
www.therocksmornington.com.au
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194 Nepean Hwy, Dromana | 03 5981 0355 Nov-Feb: 7 days, 11am-5pm and Friday evenings in Summer. Mar-Oct: Thu-Mon 11am-5pm. Closed Xmas Day and Good Friday.
JETTY ROAD BREWERY
12-14, Brasser Ave Dromana | 03 5987 2754 Thu: 4pm-9pm. Fri-Sat: 12pm-11pm. Sun: 12pm-9pm. From Mid-November Wed 4pm-9pm.
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MR BANKS BREWING CO
12 Hi-Tech Pl, Seaford | 03 9786 9905 Fri: 3pm-9pm. Sat: 12pm-8pm. Sun: 12pm-6pm. Hours vary on public holidays.
CHIEFS SON DISTILLERY
MOOROODUC MORNING
HICKINBOTHAM OF DROMANA
72 Watt Rd, Mornington | 03 5976 3663 Wed: 3pm-9pm. Thu-Fri: 3pm-11pm. Sat: 12pm-11pm. Sun: 12pm-7pm.
SOMERVILLE
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560 Frankston-Dandenong Rd, Carrum Downs | 03 9775 0334 Thu: 3pm-10pm. Fri-Sun: 12pm-late.
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88 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South | 03 5989 2959 Thu-Sun: 11am-6pm (plus public holidays and more in Summer).
ST ANDREWS BEACH BREWERY
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160 Sandy Rd, Fingal | 03 5988 6854 7 days. Closed Xmas Day and Good Friday.
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TWOBAYS BREWING CO *Opening December 2018
1/2 Trewhitt Ct, Dromana | 03 5910 0880 Fri: 3pm-late. Sat: 12pm-late. Sun: 12pm-9pm. Public holidays: 12pm-9pm. Closed Xmas Day and Good Friday.
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HARTS FARM
Gate 2, 300 Tucks Road, Shoreham | 0414 238 158 Sat-Sun: 12pm-5pm. Plus public holidays or by appointment. Extended hours in Summer.
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1103 Mornington-Flinders Rd, Red Hill | 03 5989 2242 Thu-Mon: 10am-5pm, Sun: 11am-4pm. Open 7 days Dec-Jan.
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37 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South | 03 5989 8660 Wed-Sun: 11am-5pm.
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BASS & FLINDERS DISTILLERY *Opening December 2018 40 Collins Rd, Dromana | 03 5989 3154 Fri-Sun: 11am-5pm. Open public holidays, closed Christmas Day and Good Friday. Extended Summer trading hours.
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PLAN YOUR TRIP Carrum Downs - Seaford Seaford - Mornington Mornington - Somerville Mornington - Dromana Mornington - Red Hill Mornington - Shoreham Mornington - Fingal Red Hill - Fingal Fingal - Shoreham Dromana - Carrum Downs
6min 22min 15min 20min 18min 30min 30min 20min 23min 35min
*Opening early 2019 25/50 Guelph St, Somerville | 03 9013 0859 Fri-Sun: 10am-4pm. All other times by appointment only.
JIMMYRUM DISTILLERY *Opening early 2019 6 Brasser Ave, Dromana | 03 5987 3338 Thu-Sun: 12pm-10pm.
visitmp.org/BCSTrail
www.visitmp.org/BCSTrail
SAFETY BEACH, DROMANA, MCCRAE On a hot, still day, one of the greatest joys in the world is throwing your towel down on the Dromana Pier and launching yourself into the perfectly clear water. Occasionally there is a shriek as someone spots the pair of great stingrays that swim about the pylons. Here some people moor their boats or take a fishing charter looking for flathead and whiting. One of the earliest settled parts of the Peninsula, it was a popular subject for colonial artists such as Louis Buvelot, who greatly admired the sweeping arc of golden sand and the rising slopes of forest as Dromana and McCrae ascend into Arthurs Seat. You can still see the links to colonial days at McCrae homestead, home to Georgiana McCrae, and at Heronswood, now home to Diggers Seeds but itself a grand colonial pile and today a place to eat true local produce. This golden arc of beach was once the place of holidaymakers but is perhaps now better known as a commuter village and a place where former Peninsula residents have returned to start a family. The more stable population has meant that hospitality businesses no longer suffer the boom and bust and this beautiful strip of the Peninsula punches well above its weight when it comes to food and beverage offerings. Diners are coming from other parts of the Peninsula to eat at some of the popular eateries that make the most of the beachside aspect, Australian modernist architecture and casual local vibe. CafÊ culture is big in Dromana, McCrae and Safety Beach with the bike crowd congregating at their favourite cafes on weekends and some establishments packed throughout the week. It must not go unmentioned that inland, where the sandy soil gives way to more fertile ground, there are a handful of well-known wineries, cellar doors and winery restaurants that mean locals don’t have far to go for a taste of rural vineyard life.
alatonero
The cure for anything is salt water – sweat, tears or the sea.
It’s bright, breezy and oh-so-easy to relax and breathe in definitive southern Peninsula ambience at this gathering place, Alatonero brings the calming sea, grounding sand and ever-changing skyscape which brings all the colours and authentic flavours of Santorini plus contemporary to your alfresco table from its positionclassics to the Peninsula for a truly Greek perfect site right opposite the McCrae experience. foreshore — and that’s just for starters.
This is the place to spend summer days lazing away or chatting with lovers of life and fine food, family and friends on balmy nights. Indulge in fresh local produce including honey, olive oil, lamb and goat created with an unmistakably Greek intent while enjoying the best of local wines and Victorian seafood. And don’t forget to laugh because life is for living especially when you are by the sea! Owner Jacqui Poulier’s long-term love affair with Santorini oozes from every corner of this charming seaside restaurant and event destination, so you could be excused for believing you were somewhere on the Mediterranean. Bringing the taste of the islands to the Peninsula, plus the health-infused diet of a people who understand what it means to celebrate living through great food, means you have the perfect place for intimate gatherings, birthday celebrations, end-of-year events and absolute memory-making weddings. Alatonero offers an unrivalled event and functions space, whether you’re searching for exclusive access entertaining or a private dining experience. The Alatonero range of packages includes provisions for sit-down events, stand-up ‘feasting on your feet’ options or a gourmet barbecue complete with spit-roasted meats. Book the entire venue for an exclusive garden and terrace pre-dinner drinks and canapes start, with up to 100 guests in the main dining room and an adjacent bar and space to dance the night away after indulging your tastebuds. Twenty-five years in the food and hospitality industry has given this Greek cuisine taste-sensation encounter its seductive authenticity. Jacqui’s experience brings a wealth of knowledge and understanding of what her clients expect and enjoy. Combine this with her passion for all things Santorini and you are in ‘bayside with a Mediterranean twist’ nirvana. Dine in to relish Mezze lamb ribs, goat cigars or chargrilled octopus, or indulge in a large plate fish of the day, oven-baked eggplant, moussaka or lamb or chicken souvlaki and end with baklava or warmed orange cake. If you can’t decide, let the Alatonero experts feed you with a chef’s selection of offerings served in a relaxed shared-style manner. Jacqui Poulier knows flavour. She also knows how to celebrate and provide her clients with the very best the Mornington Peninsula has to offer. Stop by for a cheeky signature cocktail — think a vodka-infused Santorini Donkey, Espresso Martini or a Peninsula Pimms Punch — perfect for holiday-infused inspiration and relaxation. And ouzo, of course! Yasu!
Alatonero I 671 Point Nepean Rd, McCrae I P. 5981 1202 www.alatonero.com.au I Alatonero alatonero
www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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ROSEBUD CAPEL SOUND TOOTGAROOK RYE The wooden beach boxes at Capel Sound make a colourful backdrop to the calm, clear waters. A haven for campers in summer, this stretch of sandy beaches backed by towering cypresses and old banksias has a quiet and relaxed charm all year round. Here the big sky plays out its drama on the bay, the perfect place to watch a summer thunderstorm roll in from the west or puffy cumulous clouds float across, their images mirrored in the still water on calm days. In summer, Rye is dominated by squeals and screams from the carnival, with its rides and wafts of sugary doughnuts. This is also the home of some understated fine dining, where pork belly has been elevated to an art form.
This stretch of the Peninsula is also home to some surprising sea changers, with some of the hospitality world’s best top-end operators now opening cafes and hipster eateries — jobs with less pressure so they can enjoy watching their kids grow up. This is also a great place to get a burger, with some businesses putting on a dozen or so different burgers that could include anything from pulled pork to slices of haggis. While the focus has always been on the strip right next to the beach — which is incredibly well-serviced with coffee and breakfast venues — it is worth having a look around the other side of the freeway. Here you will find golf courses with kitchens, old bowling alleys with café and giftwares and little burger joints and the like tucked away down side streets. After the meal’s finished, this is the place to walk the Bay Trail along the beach or splash about in the shallows with the family in summer. With the strip of banksias and teatrees and the forest of Arthurs Seat looming in the background, this lovely little part of the Peninsula maintains its bushy seaside atmosphere.
veraison
Originally a French term in viticulture meaning ‘the onset of ripening’, Veraison is renowned for being an exciting time for grape-growers and winemakers alike, for as the grapes change in colour, size and weight so they are presented with limitless possibilities for creating new and exciting wines. And so it is with food . . .
Veraison’s philosophy regarding food is simple. Choose the best and finest ingredients, those that are at their optimum when naturally in season and then showcase their flavours and textures with spectacular dishes. To stay true to this principle, Veraison offers an ever-changing menu that is continually evolving to utilise and represent this fresh seasonal produce. Executive head chef Mark Poulter carefully selects all produce from specialty sources and artisan boutique suppliers, all of whom have one thing in common: a desire for and commitment to excellence. Having established itself as one of the leading regional restaurants on the Mornington Peninsula, Veraison, through the fusion of classical cooking methods entwined with new and innovative kitchen techniques, consistently delivers on the promise of exciting dishes for a unique and contemporary menu that won’t disappoint. Food is a passion and for Mark that passion has become his life-long journey that regularly takes him and his partner Cherie on extensive travels abroad in search of new ideas and ongoing creative inspiration. It is this inspiration that leads to the conception of intriguing new dishes, often with surprising ingredients and flavour combinations, all designed to tantalise and delight. This passion is clearly evident when you feast your eyes on an exquisitely plated dish, prepared with love, which is indeed a true celebration of food. No dining experience would be complete without exceptional wines to complement your meal and so great pride is also taken with careful selection of wines from different wine regions both locally and internationally. Mark and Cherie believe that the secret to a superb wine is where the grape variety has been grown to stay true to its origin and style. A family-run business that was established in 2007, Veraison moved to its new seaside venue in Tootgarook during 2017. This new modern venue is located on the beautiful Peninsula foreshore with Port Phillip Bay directly across the road. The walls are adorned with original artworks complemented by soft ambient lighting, all of which create an elegant backdrop for a rewarding dining experience. Alongside Mark in the kitchen is son Aaron as sous chef, an outstanding chef in his own right, with Cherie managing front of house. A true family affair and with the support of all their staff, they form a formidable team. Veraison is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Enjoy a hearty breakfast and great coffee before or after your early morning beach walk or relax with friends and family for a delicious lunch or dinner. Special occasions such as birthdays or anniversaries can be catered for and there is also the option to hire out the venue for your own private function. External catering is also a service Veraison provides. Š Photos and Words by isabellarosephotographer.com
Veraison I 1889 Point Nepean Rd, Tootgarook I P: 5985 8888 www.veraisonrestaurant.com.au Veraison Restaurant
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BLAIRGOWRIE SORRENTO PORTSEA This southern tip of the Peninsula is riddled with history. Literally. The tip of land at Portsea is a warren of tunnels dug to house armaments for the mid19th century fort built to defend the gold-pumped Melbourne from global naval foes. The back beach is synonymous with the loss of Harold Holt and its rugged limestone coast is dotted with rock stacks and curious weathered geological formations. Built from local limestone, the historic pubs and stores of old Sorrento speak volumes of when this was Melbourne’s pleasure playground. During the early 1900s, boatloads of Victorian-era holidaymakers would arrive several times a day. They came to this stretch of coast for the azure blue waters lapping at golden sandy beaches; they came for the fresh air and walks along the coast. But they mostly came to promenade — what we now call ‘people-watching’. Some stayed and built mansions on the cliffs. Others came later and built holiday shacks in the dunes. This part of the Peninsula still maintains that historic resort destination feel with seasonal fluxes and a solid band of locals dedicated to protecting the natural amenities. The old pubs still draw crowds and reinvestment in them sees these historic watering holes offering exceptional spaces to meet, eat and party. The area attracts some serious fine-diners, and a core of some of the state’s best hospitality professionals offer menus to appeal to the serious palate without whitelinen stuffiness. It’s along this stretch of west-facing coast that can be had some of the best beachside dining and coastal-style pub life — the highlight being the sun slowly lowering itself into Port Phillip Bay at the end of the day.
sorrento trattoria
A paved pathway off Sorrento’s main Ocean Beach Rd leads to a little Sicily. Arriving at Sorrento Trattoria is much like walking into a restaurant in the favourite Italian region. Warm and atmospheric with a friendly open-arm-like feel, it’s like walking into a big Sicilian hug. It’s embracing. It’s comforting. It’s Carmela D’Amore’s favourite place.
In her extremely extensive menu of seasonal and wholesome food, executive chef and owner Carmela has taken on a representation of the Nonnas (grandmothers) – food that is symbolic, warm, comforting - and where memories are evoked with each and every bite. Each Sicilian region uses its own ingredients and Carmela has, over the years, adapted the original framework of recipes to make them her own. This is the perfect place to unwind and take in the tastes of the Sicilian culture. To talk, to eat, to enjoy each other’s company while embarking on a culinary journey of traditional foods. When Carmela is not making her own bread, pasta, sauces and dishes, she is instilling her skills into the next generation of chefs at her restaurant to embalm the secrets of past generations for posterity. Son, Joseph, is keen to carry on with tradition and has learnt a great deal of the family traits, allowing Carmela the freedom to learn new recipes in Sicily, and one of which is the semolina-based pasta, making it an easily digested and great low-GI staple. In addition to ongoing staff training, Carmela’s regular cooking classes for those wanting to learn the values of great Sicilian cooking are a popular sell-out event. After gleaning their new skills, students are invited on an overseas trip where they put their newfound skills into practice making their own salami, wild boar sausages, cous cous and even cheeses with local shepherds. Many Sorrento locals have joined her culinary tour to Sicily. While the pizza menu carries all the usual favourites, gourmet options include Ancient Style with its garlic base, crushed beetroot, shredded chicken, hommus, fresh rucola and crushed hazelnuts and Pizza Della Signora, a pizza of fresh tomato, mozzarella, feta, sundried tomatoes, garlic and rocket, drizzled in Carmela’s very own cold-pressed green olive extra virgin olive oil that she has made in Italy and sent out to Sorrento. The pizza dough is made from a family recipe that requires 24 hours of resting, making it better for digestion. Pasta is the heart of the family and it’s no surprise that casarecce alla norma is always a favourite. The dish was created from Sicilian cuisine in the 1800s by opera composer Vincenzo Bellini, who devised the recipe for the Opera Norma to feast on before a performance. It is made up from fried eggplants, sugo, virgin olive oil and basil, which are topped with a delicious grated baked ricotta. Seafoods, salads and risottos are all popular choices, as are the chicken and veal. The Sicilian veal parmigiana is cooked the traditional way and is topped with sugo, slices of grilled eggplant and mozzarella cheese. Cooked until golden brown, it is a Sicilian take on an Australian favourite. Smaller appetites will be more than pleased at the assaggini (a taste) options – pannelle is a traditional street food of fried chickpea chips with a lemon wedge and Carmela’s arancini with roasted pumpkin, peas, parmesan and mozzarella take on a vibrant yellow hue due to the saffron. Antipasto platters are popular to share and cozze mussels are pan-fried in wine, garlic, herbs, cherry tomatoes and chilli. And rounding out any meal, a great choice for a sweet offering are the Sicilian doughnuts – sfinghi. Fluffy in texture and filled with sultanas, they are a delicious part of the Arab, French, Greek and Spanish influence of Sicilian delicacies here in Sorrento.
Sorrento Trattoria I 20 Ocean Beach Road, Sorrento I P. 5984 5655 www.sorrentotrattoria.com.au or www.carmelascucinaclass.com.au SorrentoTrattoria eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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ST ANDREWS BEACH TO FLINDERS This great strip of golden sand, backed by rough sand dunes and covered in tea-tree, forms the Peninsula’s eastern shoreline. Here the swell that started off the Tasmanian coasts rolls in from Bass Strait, forming some of the best waves in Victoria, especially at a beach known to local skeg heads simply as Gunnamatta. To the west is St Andrews Beach, slightly more sedate but just as dramatic. To the east the sand gives way to towering basalt cliffs and rocky shelves at Cape Schanck, home to seals and seabirds where the swell relentlessly pounds the coast. To the west the sand dunes are replaced by sandy loam, and here are some of the largest market gardens in the state, supplying grocers and supermarkets with carrots, celery, lettuce, and other leafy greens. The same free-draining soil is also perfect for growing grass, and this southern end of the Peninsula is home to some superb golf courses such as Moonah Links, The National and RACV Cape Schanck. Here the Royal Automobile Club of Victoria invested in a multi-million-dollar resort, designed by architects Woods Marsh, boasting a fine dining restaurant that has the critics raving. This complements the already globally popular Peninsula Hot Springs, a series of geothermally heated pools in a beautifully landscaped bush setting nearby. At Bushrangers Bay, Main Creek flows into Bass Strait at one of the most dramatic parts of the Victorian coastline, where twisted banksias grow by a black pebble beach. Inland is the start of the great eastern basalt slopes, home to some of the best grazing country in the state. Careful planning sees large tracts of land set aside for pasture on which are raised award-winning cattle producing superb and succulent beef. Bookending the coast to the east is Flinders, a historic fishing village that still produces some of the best mussels in the state and features an old Scotch oven bakery, a handful of great cafes, an old pub with a modern makeover and some highly regarded restaurants. This strip of the Peninsula’s coast, open to the westerlies and the pounding surf, has a wonderful wild and remote feel and is well worth exploring any time of the year.
peninsula hot springs Natural thermal mineral waters flow into the pools and private baths at this coastal oasis.
When visiting Peninsula Hot Springs, take a break from relaxing in the award-winning geothermal pools or being pampered at the day spa to replenish your body with a dining experience like no other. There are three on-site cafés to choose from, each offering distinct contemporary and seasonal menus for all times of the day. Enjoy a delicious and nourishing meal as you look out on to the pools and native tea-trees in the Spa Dreaming Centre Café, or, if you can’t wait to get back to the calming waters, select a ready-to-go-snack from the Bath House Café. You’re also invited to bring your own feast to share with friends and family in the picnic areas. “We offer a unique combination of both home-grown and local produce as well as using some Indigenous ingredients to provide our customers with a menu that encompasses many flavours while boasting a range of wholesome and nutritious meals,” says Kate Save, founder of Be Fit Food and Peninsula Hot Springs nutrition ambassador. The Spa Dreaming Centre Café allows you to maintain your blissfulness and bask in your post-hot springs glow as you enjoy mouthwatering dishes dressed in your robe. Here you overlook the tranquil hot springs while being served wholesome food from an a la carte menu. Reserved for guests 16 years and over, the Spa Dreaming Centre Café is also fully licensed, so you can continue your road to relaxation with a local beer, wine or champagne. If you’re after a more casual dining experience, the outdoor Bath House Café delivers a selection of light meals, refreshing drinks and freshly-ground coffee to complement your day of social bathing. The Bath House Café offers ample seating just a hop, skip and jump from the family-friendly bathing area. Guests can also indulge in a fusion of s.l.o.w (seasonal, local, organic and whole) foods at the new Bath House Amphitheatre Café. Open on weekends, this open-air space invites you to luxuriate in the sun as you discover fresh produce and globally-inspired dishes. The menu items are supplied, as much as possible, with organic produce sourced directly from the hot springs’ very own Food Bowl – a 1.2ha terraced garden that will grow over the coming years to include thermallyheated glasshouses and an underground mushroom cave. With your health at the forefront of planning, this area will further expand to grow teas and medicinal plants. There’s no doubt that your mind, body and spirit will be rejuvenated and renewed with the emphasis on holistic well-being at Peninsula Hot Springs.
Peninsula Hot Springs I Springs Lane, Rye I P. 5950 8777 I www.peninsulahotsprings.com www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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Photo: Steve Brown
MAIN RIDGE RED HILL ARTHURS SEAT MERRICKS SHOREHAM POINT LEO From the summit of Arthurs Seat you can see a great swathe of the Peninsula from Safety Beach to Hastings, out to the Dandenong and Strzelecki ranges in Gippsland and beyond. From up here the Melbourne skyline becomes a few silver strands on the horizon. Arthurs Seat’s great forestclad spine of granite slowly drops to become Main Ridge, an elevated hamlet surrounded by rolling hills intersected with winding gravel roads. In this deep rich soil, shared by Red Hill and the uplands of Shoreham, outstanding stone fruit, pears, apples, strawberries and avocados grow. The undulating hills give way to the beaches along Western Port Bay. Merricks is the quintessential summer holiday settlement with mid-20th century beach houses intermingled with new builds hidden in the manna gums and tea-trees. Here it is not uncommon to find yourself in the water with the resident wild dolphins, and in recent years migrating whales have been seen as far into the bay as Shoreham. Nearby Point Leo holds happy memories for many with its campground backing on to Waterholes Creek, the surf lifesaving club and yacht club where many seasons have been well spent in the surf and on the sand. It’s in this green and very much still rural hinterland that the Mornington Peninsula wine renaissance started back in the 1970s. Here you can find cellar doors, some grand with stunning architecture showcasing the brilliance of the wine. Others are literally old doors with some bottles plonked on top where you can taste the wine among the fermenters, beautiful and rustic. Among them is a large cluster of award-winning winery restaurants that pay homage to their wines, showcase local produce and offer some of the best dining experiences in the state.
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sunny ridge strawberry farm Sunny Ridge has been a Mornington Peninsula icon for many years with a strong history of berry production.
Surrounded by water, Sunny Ridge Strawberry Farm enjoys a maritime climate that creates perfect growing conditions for the big, juicy strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries. The Peninsula’s hot days and cool, dry nights are an important element in the berry production at Sunny Ridge that has seen the growth of strawberries galore for more than 50 years. And to run with the seasons, keep up with the demand and maintain a constant supply, Sunny Ridge also has a site in sunny Queensland that ensures a continuous supply of the very best berries all year round. Each year, five million strawberry plants are hand-planted across the four Sunny Ridge properties, and 3.5 million of those are planted on the Peninsula alone to keep up with the huge demand. Visitors to Sunny Ridge can even get the real cream of the crop by choosing their very own fruit. It’s a great family day out picking your own strawberries with ‘u-pick’. Staff are always close by to point you in the right direction to find the best crops and give top tips to picking the best strawberries during your visit. It’s a real healthy and tasty treasure hunt! After the fun of ‘u-pick’, which is available between November and April, what better reward for the fruits of your labours than taking a look over the mouthwatering seasonal menu? Treat yourself to a Belgian chocolate fondue, strawberry kebabs with marshmallows and warm milk chocolate for dipping or one of the many other luscious berry-themed desserts. Other firm favourites are the Devonshire tea of scones with Sunny Ridge’s home-made strawberry jam and a fine helping of thickened fresh cream, Belgian waffles loaded up with seasonal berries and dripping in a luscious Belgian chocolate sauce and the Sunny Ridge sorbet and ice creams that are made on the premises daily from the freshest of ingredients. Tickled tastebuds all round. Savoury-lovers are also catered for with the popular Johnny Ripe range of chicken, beef and vegetable pies. A real treat after spending such an amazing day out on the land and getting close to nature has to be a quick visit to the cellar door. The tasting station is just the place to sample Peninsula wines and ciders to take home and enjoy with your berry buys.
Sunny Ridge Strawberry Farm I 244 Shands Road, Main Ridge I P. 5989 4500 I www.sunnyridge.com.au I www.eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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SOMERS BALNARRING BITTERN HASTINGS TYABB Back in the 1920s, the train used to steam down from the city, go past Bittern, through Balnarring and on to Red Hill. Some called it ‘the Granny Smith express’ because it carried apples from the cool stores back to the markets in Melbourne. Times change, and now what were once villages are thriving communities each with a character of its own. Hastings used to be dominated by the industries built on its periphery, but locals have re-embraced its Western Port waterfront. It is a town with waterside lifestyle properties, café life and walks through some of the most diverse mangrove forest in the world. Hastings is becoming a popular place for artists and tree changers attracted by the affordable lifestyle and who love the bay views and proximity to both city and country. The same can be said for Bittern, home to a weekly market and a popular destination for bike-riders who stop for coffee while making the way down the Western Port Bay Trail. Drive down Coolart Rd and you can still see remnants of the old orchards, and in this farmland at Tyabb you’ll find one of the best pork producers and makers of charcuterie in Australia at Woolumbi Farm, famous for its farm gate store. Down along the coast is the sleepy little hamlet of Somers, a holiday place of endless summers with its general store surrounded by she-oaks and banksias. Further south and Balnarring has shrugged off its quiet country town persona and is a desirable destination to shop and dine with its range of restaurants, award-winning butcher, well-known baker and several good cafes. Uniting them all is a strong coterie of value-dining ethnic offerings and a hinterland dotted with some of the best-known and well-respected wineries on the Peninsula.
red hill baker and providore at balnarring
Red Hill Baker and Providore at Balnarring brings much more than authentic artisan bread and delicious gourmet pies to the coastal/country table. As a favourite with locals and visitors alike, this integral part of Balnarring’s fine-food fabric provides warm, relaxed dining for patrons who delight in sampling food made with love. Renowned for its expansive range of creatively crafted breads, cakes and chef-prepared take-home meals, Red Hill Baker and Providore at Balnarring swings open its doors to admirers of home-grown deliciousness delivered in a bright space where conversation, creation and laughter fills the air. This is the spot for Sunday afternoons spent tapping your feet to the beat of live jazz while sampling fresh wood-fired pizzas and lunchtime specials with a huge dollop of unique Red Hill Baker brilliance. Fill your basket with Australian and international gourmet bounty to take home to continue your tastebud adventure. Red Hill Baker bread is made using traditional methods and minimal ingredients, including fresh yeast, super fine salt, Laucke unbleached and stoneground flours, olive oil and H2O. This environmentally conscious, family-run provider of quality product offers coffee grinds to locals for fertiliser, is plastic shopping bag-free and uses bio bags for its bread. From earnest beginnings in 2001 baking and creating slow-braised pies with trans-fat-free pastry, Red Hill Baker and Providore at Balnarring has become a locally produced, honest food treasure. Explore, treat and feel very welcome.
Red Hill Baker and Providore at Balnarring I 1/3000 Frankston/Flinders Road, Balnarring I P. 5931 3125 I www.redhillbaker.com.au The-Red-Hill-Bakery-Balnarring redhillbaker eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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FRANKSTON AND SURROUNDS There is a new energy rippling through the bayside community of Frankston. Once an edgy end-of-the-line suburb, this is a place brimming with self-confidence spurred on by large investments into its arts and cultural facilities and a new wave of bars and eateries that have embraced not only the broad arc of Port Phillip Bay but the ribbon of bush-lined estuary that is Kananook Creek. Frankston and surrounds was always a destination for the wealthy and talented. Dame Elisabeth Murdoch made her home at Cruden Farm, with its famous avenue of lemon-scented gums and Edna Walling garden, and after her passing left it in trust so we all can visit. Joan Lindsay wrote Picnic At Hanging Rock at Mulberry Hill and was part of a bohemian group that included Harry McClelland, whose former studio farm is now one of Australia’s most important destinations for sculpture — McClelland Sculpture Park+Gallery. Frankston has quite rightly celebrated its artistic heritage with a broad range of mural art by street artists such as SMUG, ZEDR and Lucy Bonnin covering prominent public space. Art in Frankston is egalitarian, and every summer Frankston Beach becomes home to the Sand Sculpting Australia exhibition in which a fantastic world is created purely from sand. Frankston also attracts street food festivals, waterfront activities and scores of top performing artists at the state-of-the-art Frankston Arts Centre. The arrival of big business head offices in recent years has seen an infusion of new blood in Frankston, which has led to a real hipster vibe with a swathe of new cafes and finessed eateries on top of an already bustling food and wine scene with award-winning restaurants and a United Nations of cuisines represented in the value-for-money market of family dining. Frankston has rapidly made a reputation for itself as a cultural centre in which to be entertained, learn, and be amazed as well as a destination to eat and drink extremely well.
Photo Steve Brown
geonbae Stepping into Geonbae Korean Barbecue Restaurant is like leaving Frankston for east Asia. In fact, it’s easy to forget that you’re situated on the banks of Kananook Creek, just a stone’s throw away from the iconic Frankston pier and vivid tangerine sunsets over Port Phillip Bay. In this bubble of buzz and activity, waiters weave between chairs, and families and friends laugh around tables as traditionally prepared chicken, pork and beef dishes sizzle on hotplates between them. It’s this vibrant, authentic atmosphere that makes dining at Geonbae an experience like no other. Unless you’ve ventured to the far-off shores of Korea, chances are slim you’ve sampled Korean barbecue before. After all, Geonbae is the first of its kind in Frankston and the Peninsula, a uniqueness that makes a meal at the fledgling restaurant all the more exhilarating. If you’re new to the world of Korean cuisine, a team of knowledgeable and friendly wait staff are on hand to guide you through the exciting menu. They can advise you on which vegetable dishes and side plates to pair with your specialty meat dishes and explain traditional Korean delicacies like kimchi and bibim bap. The choices will make your mouth water. You can also learn about the fresh, authentic ingredients Geonbae prides itself on using, as well as the variety of house-made sauces, from sweet and sour to honey mustard. Suddenly, lunch or dinner becomes an educational experience, one perfect for those eager, to treat their palette to something new. Don’t be nervous! Once your order is decided – a tough choice due to the restaurant’s all-encompassing and delicious menu – one of Geonbae’s staff will fire up the electric barbecue built into each table. As you marvel at the meal simmering before you, each step of the process is explained for a truly interactive experience. When your choice has been cooked to perfection, all that’s left to do is pick your food off the hotplate and share the taste of Korea with those around you. Upmarket yet lively in its atmosphere, Geonbae is the perfect spot to enjoy an unconventional dining experience with family and friends, or the ideal destination for a unique and romantic date your special someone will never forget. Feeling thirsty? Geonbae also stocks a selection of drinks you can’t try anywhere else. Why not sample soju (a Korean rice wine) for the first time or select a specialty beer, wine, cocktail or soft drink that takes your palate on a whirlwind tour of Seoul? After all, the word ‘Geonbae’ is a Korean noun that translates to ‘bottoms up’ or ‘cheers’ so it’s only fitting to grab your glass and toast Geonbae!
Geonbae I 4 Kananook Creek Boulevard, Frankston P. 9783 9067 I www.geonbae.com.au GeonbaeFrankston geonbaefrankston eatdrinkmorningtonpeninsula.com.au
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