BASELWORLD 2019 ISSUE NO. 25
ALESSANDRO MARIA FERRERI Chief Executive Officer THE STYLE GATE - Intelligence to Luxury IN THIS ISSUE
Exclusive Interview with Brand Owner of Bereve Timepieces
Baselworld Novelties and World records in High Jewellery & Luxury Timepieces MORALMODA | MAGAZINE
Interview with Tamara Zantout, the author of ‘Drawing Lines’
Aline Watfa in Ellie Saab 2017
MO LAKE COMO MONACO ISSUE 22/2018
LAKE COMO MANDARIN ORIENTAL ITALY OPENING APRIL 2019
MONACO ISSUE 22/2018
Table of Contents 15
GOLDEN NOTE AWARDS IN VIENNA by Leona König
Baselworld - BVLGARI BREAKS WORLD RECORDS
|MAXIMILIAN BÜSSER &FRIENDS PRESENTS ITS FIRST WOMENS WATCH AFTER 4 YEARS OF RESEARCH
YACHTS BEREVE TIMEPIECES COVER-STORY CHANTILLY CASTLE
AVANTGARDE DUBAI WORLD CUP
In interview withBereve Timepieces Brand Owner Alessandro Maria Ferreri - the founder and CEO of The Style Gate brings Intelligence to Luxury in exclusive perosnal interview In interview with Tamara Zantout, the author of ‘Drawing Lines’ reveals Lebanese identity via art Dubai World Cup World's Richest Horse Race Day
Protagonists of the Golden Note 2019 are young chamber musicians selected by a distinguished jury during the IMFaudition at the University of Music and Performing Arts Vienna (MDW) on the 23rd of February 2019, in Vienna. The talented youngsters, aged between five and sixteen, demonstrated their skills in the magnificent atmosphere of the Schubert Saal of the Wiener Konzerthaus in Vienna on the 22th of March and played pieces ranging from classical to contemporary music. At the end of the concert the young chamber musicians were honoured by the Distinguished Committee – Tibor Kovac from the Vienna Philharmonics , Alma Deutscher composer, pianist and violinist, Dominque Meyer, Director of the Vienna Staatsoper were part of it.
Watch for Egypt - fine watch auction by Baume &Mercier to aid 20,000 children in school
All the participants will be given the possibility to attend Masterclasses in order to further their musical education. These classes will take place at the University of Musik and performing arts of Vienna in July." Images: Jürgen Hammerschmid
“I wanted to make this possible for the small ones, because I saw this potential... I saw many gifted children and they can perform at such beautiful stages. This was my motivation to create something that was even in Vienna nonexistent.” Leona König Chairwoman of IMF
This year, for the fifth time, Bvlgari broke world records with their new launches of OctoFinissimo at Basel. The Italian luxury brand has invited jet-set and celebrities from around the globe to discover the art of fine watch-making in heart of Swiss Alps where brand has created their new Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, now the thinnest existing Chronograph movement with 3.3mm record-setting thinness. For women, Bvlgari launched Serpenti Seduttori a reimagination of the current cult Serpenti watch, now cast in gold. And also debuting at Baselworld was the unique, new piece Octo Grande Sonnerie with its Perpetual Calendar Dreamy stuff.
“Our capability of fusing edgy, magnificent Italian design with the ultimate Swiss engineering and craftsmanship — this is why I talk about Rinascimento from Bvlgari,” JeanChristophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari.
© The cover page with Alessandro Maria Ferreri
Baselworld Issue cover-storyAlessandro Maria Ferreri reveals personal passions & trends in the luxury industry...
The cover page with Alessandro Maria Ferreri. All rights reserved to the image holder. All unauthorised reproduction is illegal.
This issue dedicated to extraordinary watchmaking by Swiss and international brands with an exclusive cover-story with Mr Alessandro Maria Ferreri sums up a global contemporary trends in the luxury scene. Alessandro Maria Ferreri opens up in a personal interview about his passions & his great dedication to work in the fashion. For our readers looking to obtain great insight in sustainable investment and news from the Baselworld we have extensive coverage of the most luxurious and exceptional brands, even we have exclusive interview with the brand owner of Bereve Timepieces.
The Baselworld issue contains news from the sustainable luxury industry and we continue to collaborate with brands that share our values for sustainability, transparency and ethics, such as Maison Chopard, MB&F, Bvlgari and all who demand high ethical standards and approach in the production. In addition, I have selected my personal top novelties and world records presented at this Baselworld and we invite you to discover our selection of artists trending now and also new collaborations unveiled last month at Baselworld 2019, until the next time . Thank You for reading Nermin Ahmet Managing Ed./Executive M.
Moralmoda Magazine© takes no responsibility for claims made in advertising in this magazine. No images may be reproduced or copied in any way.
Aline Watfa in Ellie Saab 2017
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JACOB&CO. HAUTE JOAILLERIE
Watch for Egypt - fine watch new collection auction by Baselworld 2019 novelties Baume &Mercier to aid 20,000 children in school Heinz Mayer OHG
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Watch for Egypt - fine watch auction by Hublot Baume &Mercier to aid 20,000 2019 baselworld children in school United Arab Emirates | Australia | Maldives | Rwanda | South Africa | Mauritius |
Moralmoda Magazine Haute Horlogerie
MAXIMILIAN BÜSSER &FRIENDS PRESENTS ITS FIRST WOMENS WATCH AFTER 4 YEARS OF RESEARCH
Legacy Machine FlyingT launches in three editions, all in white gold and set with diamonds: (image above and right)– black lacquer dial plate with case set with brilliant-cut diamonds; and – dial plate and case both fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds; – dial plate and case both fully set with baguette-cut diamonds.
Less than two weeks before Baselworld, the MB&F horological concept laboratory. unveils the Legacy Machine FlyingT: lab's very first piece dedicated to women. Among all the novelties presented this year at Baselworld, I was truly excited to see the first ever women's watch by MB&F. The Swiss watch laboratory is one of the most innovative watch brands, not only when it comes to design, but the entire approach to the work and production. MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by uniting talented horological professionals that Mr Büsser both respects and enjoys working with. The result is not only utmost beautiful watch, but most beautiful Swiss clock work. Transparency is one of key characteristics, as Mr Arnaud Légeret, Communication Manager at MB&F, explained to me. In the otherwise very private industry of Swiss watch making, MB&F is always very open about professionals behind each new watch that the lab is producing, giving credits to the highly talented horological experts. What is exciting about the MB&F's latest haute horology timepiece is that it proposes a completely new design and it is not just a feminised model of men watch. As I could confirm upclose in the MB&F booth at this year's Baselworld, the new timepiece unites the stunning clock work and the noble metals and gems, it is thus also MB&F's first diamond pave watch, in that entire dial is set with diamonds for models available with white or black fine alligator strap, or as in the case with the black lacquer dial. Holdin the watch made me never wanting to let go of it, which is something I rarely experience, and even less so for a ladies watch. The flying tourbillon, itself is something fascinating and the dials itself are discreetly placed making you forget, the design is very clear with round dial set (with diamonds) under perfect dome protecting the entire case and tourbilion, in sapphire glass. It is very clear that this is utmost precise and carefully handmade watch that can't be compared to any mass produced watch, the time invested in „Sharing Dish, Spices Fried Rice, Kaeng Phed Ped Yang, Lahsooni Naan and Samudra Jhinga Kebab“ photographed with the luxury watches „Manero Peripheral“ from Carl F. Bucherer at Restaurant Spices Kitchen & Terrace at Bürgenstock Resort Lake Lucerne. (PPR/Carl F. Bucherer/Fabian Häfeli)
making this timepiece or planing it from the scratch is impressive and the final result truly demonstrates the utmost dedication and research invested in its creation. Bravo to the MB&F team and we only can hope that we will not wait many years again before we can admire another creation for the finer gender. So how is it composed? Under a high-domed sapphire crystal and towering above a central pillar symbolising energy, a 60-second flying tourbillon, which gives the piece its name. At 7 o’clock and at 50 degrees, a delicate sub-dial with serpentine hands offers the time, but only to the wearer; a very intimate indication of the time. Underneath the slender 18K white gold case, the energy source of the 280-component automatic movement: a winding rotor in the shape of a sun, offering a generous 100 hours of power reserve. This was challenging. Not only had Max completely lost any reflexes as to how to create for anyone else, but he had to admit that he had no idea what a woman wants… there was no way he could create a piece trying to put himself in her shoes. He had to take a different approach and decided to integrate into this creation everything he loves in the women of his life. Most essentially, this boiled down to a surprising mix of energy on one hand, and elegance on the other... and of course, it had to remain a three-dimensional mechanical sculpture. The creative process behind LM FlyingT started four years ago, when Maximilian Büsser began thinking about making something inspired by the feminine influences in his life: “I wanted LM FlyingT to possess the epitome of femininity as reflected by the women in my life, particularly my mother. It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality. The column-like structure of the flying tourbillon was very important to me as I felt very strongly that women form the pillar of humanity. There is another layer of meaning coming in from the sun-shaped rotor, which incorporates the element of life-giving, a source of sustenance which we gravitate towards and around.”
Bereve Timepieces, Brand Owner in Interview on the latest Grand Feu Watch Collection - Including a World First Enamel Grand Feu dial with 20 Colours EXCEPTIONAL ART of WATCH- MADE IN THE MOST SUBLIME Grand Feu by BEREVE
"We specialize in creating Enamel Grand Feu dial watches, the true Enamel Grand Feu" M. Bernando humbly admits, and adds, that the Grand Feu dials are made at home by him and his mother. So it is very intimate family watch savoir-faire that is inherited and keept from generation to generation. Bernando confirms it, "My mother has been making these dials for about 50 years." In the new Grand Feu collection unveiled at the Baselworld by Bereve, we trully appreciate precision and time invested, as Bernando clarifies to me, "The new (Grand Feu dials with Roman) Numbers requires about 45h of work, if it is executed completely without making any mistakes." That is true essence of hand made Bereve watch, the client can expect one of a kind swiss timepiece hand made without compromise, as he explains further, "a single mistake can frustrate days of work." I understand because the enamel Grand feu is so delicate, I ask. "Yes and for this reason we are about 2 - 3 watchmakers, who make such dials in the world. In the case of Numbers timepieces, there are about 14-15 repeated cooking moments in an oven with temperatures between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. Yes, it is very rare, indeed there are two other brands that inhouse realize quad-rants of this type; they are Jacquet Droz and Ulysse Nardin. In Switzerland, we are three enamellers who realize quadrants of this dif-ficulty." Thus Bereve timepieces represent some of the most impressive brands in Swiss tra-dition of fine wachmaking, as Bernando notes: " I don't want to sound presumptuous, but 20 colors have never been put on a single quadrant . We have done a lot of research on this subject."
Then Bernando continues to present the different stages of this complicated watch-making project, presenting differen stages (please see images below with final Grand Feu dial of exceptonal processl). "Here are some intermediate stages of our work. there are secrets handed down for centuries in this art made in the city of Geneva." Bernardo, states. Right from the first glance at Bereve watch it becomes clear how truly admirable and precision work is exceptional So you are shaping the different grand feu colours like a mosaic in golden case settings, I want to know. - "Correct, this technique is called Champlevé, it is possible to make this technique only on pure silver or pure gold." Why is it only possible to use these precious metals in pure form, I wanted to know. "Because non-pure materials would create oxidation, on such a small dial it is not nice to see oxidation, but our watch is a complete product. The case was designed and Realizza in La Chaux des Fonds. We use the calibre of Parmigiani Fleurier. Yes, the highest standard. Thus, in this year's Baselworld, the only watches with true Gran Feu were ours and those from a Patek collection." Also I wanted to ask M. Bernando why does Bereve prioritise to participate at Baselworld, to which he tells me that, "Baselworld is a very beautiful fair, it is a very important fair; there you can see the most beautiful watches in the world from big houses to small independent creators who in my opinion are the most beautiful".
Ateliers at Baselworld are always big pleasure to visit for the press and customers, and it was pleasure to visit even fair's larger area dedicated to Ateliers this year. "I agree the ateliers have presented watches, which are made with such love and attention to customer needs. In the moment we have a three collections, Numbers, Polygonal Prime and Emperor. All watches are available with cases in gold 18kt, stainless steel 316LM (hight level steel) and Swiss DLC coating on steel. Our product is 100% Swiss Made. Many manufacturers like us have become such because they have a great passion for the world of fine watchmaking, you cannot make a great and beautiful watch, if there is no passion and love for this sector. I have been studying watchmaking for about 20 years and will continue to do so because it is the passion of my life."
"I have been studying watchmaking for about 20 years and will continue to do so because it is the passion of my life." - M. Bernando, Brand Owner Bereve Timepieces About: Bereve is an independent brand of Haute Horlogerie, which fosters all the values of the Swiss watchmaking art. The handcraft of the dials and the manufacturing of all the components reveal the high quality of its 100% Swiss Made timepieces. The company has long experience in designing and making dials with the “Grand Feu” technique (including Champlevé, Coisonné, Plique Jour, Miniature). Bereve combines different techniques, such as Micromosaic in spun enamel, with the most precious and unique decorative stones and minerals in the world. This fifty-year-old savoir-faire enabled the company to enhance its creativity and go beyond the limits of regular handcrafting techniques.
A1.BV02.01.X.W1 Enamel Grand Feu – Champlevé, twenty colors with Ugo Nespolo’s opera “Numbers”. MOVEMENT: Bereve BV02, Vaucher Manufacture 3002 based, self-winding mechanical movement, Incabloc Antishock.
A1.BV02.A5.X.W1 EMPEROR White Dial - Décalque Black "Grand Feu"
A1.BV02.C5.X.W1 EMPEROR Cobalt Blue Dial
A1.BV02.A5.X.W1 EMPEROR Black Dial "Grand Feu"
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F&BM :EGAMI B.LSW.50 :.FER
REUQCAL KCALB T GNIYLF ML
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WHITE GOLD 18K
LEGACY MACHINE FLYINGT BLACK LACQUER
MORALMODA MAGAZINE COVER-STORY
Fashion And Luxury Tendencies in the XXI Century in-depth interview with Alessandro Maria Ferreri CEO of THE STYLE GATE In Interview about his academic & business work and life between the fashion hubs of Italy, France & UK
cover story/Leona König
Always appropriate and elegant in both his manners and appearance, Alessandro is perfectly prepared for any occasion. He is involved in highest academic and fashion circles, where his knowhow is increasingly indespensible, and prestigious top brands count to his reperoire in custom projects. Thus his work spans across the globe and top jetset destinations. The noble Parisian fashion houses count among his clients, relying on Alessandro's invaluable, frank view and experiance on business matters. MM: You are native Italian with base in Italy the birthplace of the Renaissance in art, humanities and luxurious craftsmanship, what is the driving force to the Italian fashion and luxury industry?
Image above: CEO of The Style Gate, lecturer and project mentor at The London Royal College of Arts (Image: AMF).
"For an Italian, man or woman, there are things in life that can be done in an easier and prettier way."
lessandro Maria Ferreri, is founder and CEO of Paris and Milan based agency The Style Gate that works to bring intelligence to luxury. Alessandro Maria Ferreri, is currently also Permanent Lecturer, Field Coach and Project Mentor at The London Royal College of Arts and at Università Cattolica di Milan. His close work with fashion and luxury's top brands since over 20 years, and even intimate and extensive experience within a fashion and luxury industry, merits today his academic and management know-how sought by most prestigious academic and luxury institutions across the global luxury sector. Alessandro-is Italian for Alexander-started his journey in the northern Italian city of
Turin, this former Residence of the Royal House of Savoy (from the year 1562 and onwards). An old proverb says that "The name of boat decides its journey" Royal City of Turin is today home to Italy's successful footbal teams and car brands. Likewise Mr Ferreri's life reflects his home base having as diverse experiences under his belt as working with the UN Peacekeepers in New York to management of fashion industry’s most prestigious brands. Alessandro worked for many years in worldwide fashion conglomerate Aeffe Group, as GM Asia; has then covered a four years role as Retail and Sales Director at Jean-Paul Gaultier brand when it was owned and managed by Hermès. He then returned to his native Italy nine years ago and joined the prestigious house of Etro, in Milan as Chief Commercial Officer.
Alessandro: "I strongly believe that Italians have a strong concept of art and beauty in their DNA. Without doubt, no matter where an Italian is asked to bring his or her expertise, even point of view, from food to fashion, from architecture to literature, from interior design to music, the flow of true creativity will always come very naturally and in an original way. I am not saying that Italians are the best: I am saying that for an Italian, man-woman, there are things in life that can be done in an easier and prettier way. All in all we are the 1st market in the world for production of luxury items: probably this is due to our DNA. As for “what luxury means to me”, well, I was lucky enough to grow in family where aesthetics were important. My mother was in constant love and consumption of Dior and Versace, we have been a family who travelled around the world quite frequently my parents passed to me the love for beautiful gardens and flowers. In the light of this, I grew up having the possibility to appreciate and enjoy beautiful things, including fashion. For this background and for my passion for stunning cloths, I have built my career around this.
MORALMODA MAGAZINE cover story
MM: You have successfully started different fashion businesses and media projects, both in Italy and internationally, which parallels can you draw in fashion and luxury trends between Italy and abroad?
Alessandro: "Strange enough , when it comes to young talents, emerging designers and new comers in luxury, Italy is definitely not the best place to start. With the US or France not only there is always space for new talents to emerge, but they are also supported economically and procedurally from rich and organized associations of people , willing to invest in new generations. In Italy we are wonderful “makers” but unfortunately not always capable, organized and ready to tutorship, talent support or mentorship. This is the reason why, among my clients, all start ups come from abroad." MM: Besides all the luxury bussines you are involved at university level as the Permanent Lecturer, Field Coach and Project Mentor at The London Royal College of Arts and at Università Cattolica di Milano, how valuable is this academic chair for you?
Alessandro: "It is an honor and a constant challenge. When you've to teach, form and suggest young creative minds, you have a huge responsibility in your hands that ranges from appreciating everything good someone is able to offer to finding the rare gem in a big group of students, who can be in the future a new Galliano or Simmons. The role of a coach, of a teacher or of a tutor is also to be extremely clear where not enough “good base” is there or to highlight the qualities of the student that he doesn’t even know to have. Teaching in these prestigious universities has been always a challenge, an honor, a responsibility and a constant discovery: a class full of young students in front of you, waiting to absorb whatever information you might feed them that day, can become also a mirror for yourself to the aim of better understanding your limits, your strengths, your leadership approach and your authority."
MM: During the late 90s fashion industry accelerated driven by globalization, economic recovery and media communication, how do you see the mass media role in today’s globalized fashion industry? As you outline in your website, ‘Luxury companies know all too well that investing in digital has become essential for growth. But their most common mistake is putting technology first.‘. Alessandro: "What I repeat to each and one of my clients, even during the board meetings or strategy committees, is that “the customer has to be the center”. You can implement a great logistic, a fantastic retai l expansion in key locations, a stunning collection presented through an expensive fashion show, but till you do not have a perfect “customer profiling and a competitor analysis” all your investments can become useless. You might be surprised to discover that even very big brands, do not know yet who is their target customer or worse, they insist to aim for a specific target, when in reality their actual one is somewhere else.
All images protected: AMF .
When a new customer or brand joins my portfolio, I always make a first simple question “ if we go together to Harrods, where you see your clothes hanging? Which brand mix you believe you belong to? I can swear that 99% of the times the answer is “ I want my clotheshanging between Dolce & Gabbana and Dior”. And this is the initial big mistake everybody does, not only because this means that they have a “dream” vision and not a “real” vision about where they belong, but also because they ignore that Dior and Gabbana are never hanging together in no departement store worldwide. To come to your question, mass media, Instagram and social media is a good, quick way to understand your market positioning and your customer profile."
MM: Can luxury brands really rely on Millennials as future affluent customers, by adver-tising and education them via mass media? Alessandro: "We live in a very strange moment: wealth is polarizing, therefore big spenders are richer and low spenders have really pennies in their pockets. Global fashion and the so-called “luxury sector” have to answer to both these extreme realities. In addition, every customer now, no matter his purchasing power, can be cross covering the offer, by wearing a Kelly bag with H&M jeans. This is extremely confusing and catching a customer has complicated. There are no more groups of faithful customers: they move from one brand to the other very quickly and they use and digest even high fashion in short time. It became quite difficult to establish algorithms that can predict customers next move. In addition, in order to implement a specific strategy, a brand needs at least six months before everything is in place and working: by that time reality outside has already changed again. My suggestion is to stay faithful to core business and not stretch the product offer with the illusion to attract a wider target: in dark days, if clients perfectly remember what you are good at, they will reward you."
MM: Please tell us about your own website THE STYLE GATE, it offers a unique full spectrum of services to brands as a business accelerator, it has fun, so how much personal space and time do you invest in it? Alessandro: "For over 20 years I managed several luxury companies and then I started to be an entrepreneur. It has been quite a shock at the beginning (despite it was my decision); 5 years ago the industry was not ready for external operative advisors. But I was very farsighted actually, and soon a huge earthquake started-and important creative directors started falling, CEO's were fired, brands went bankrupt. And during a crisis you need people not involved with the company, but who know how to do things: a sort of emergency room doctors who are efficient, fast and precise. This is my role, this is my life 24/7. It is funny as I wrongly thought that being an entrepreneur, I could control my time and have more quality moments: unfortunately this is not always so true."
I STAINLESS STEEL 316 LM
NUMBERS "Enamel Grand Feu Gold Dial"
Via Emilio Bossi, 26Â 6830 Chiasso, Switzerland firstname.lastname@example.org 0041 22 5180009 www.bereve.ch
Moralmoda Magazine Cover-story MM: As brands adopt bew Creative Directors (or even new logos and other visual markers) to be more appealing to the Millennials, do not they risk on the other hand delluting of the brand’s heritage and appeal to the already established consumers? Alessandro: "Nowadays a lot of brands feel lost. Some of them, despite probably 100 years of heritage, decide they have to destroy everything in order to evolve. The problem relies on the fact that above all Italian companies are family run and when you involve all your relatives in your company thinking that this a good thing, you risk to have the opposite effect as no evolution is possible without a good level of experienced managers who come from diverse sectors. It takes a lot of courage and bright brain to face the new challenges." MM: You founded THE STYLE GATE, it approaches luxury by creating a straight-to-consumer label from the get-go. ‘This is the future of next-generation luxury brands.’ You have emphasized, could you please elaborate on this?
Alessandro: "It's just about maths. In every company margins are low: due to the necessity of having full transparence on the supply chain and engage in supporting sustainability and protection of manpower, a lot brands are getting back home with their production. The phenomenon is called “nearshoring” and for sure is the biggest margin eater at the moment. But it is important and necessary. So where to recover lost margins when also the advertising and promotion part of the company needs constant feeding to support social media and brand building? It is simple: we cut middle men. No wonder departement stores are in deep crisis. Historical the specialty stores close or become pure online players. We just try, through e-commerce, trunk shows and direct sales to reach the final consumers, moving from “B to B” to “B to C” to keep the most margin possible. This helps the brand to be reactive, efficient, collect customer feedbacks and tailor both the product and communication upon what they daily learn."
Award ceremony with Leona Köning and talented award recepients at the Musikverein Wien in the famous chamber treasure Saal.
“For over 20 years I managed several luxury companies and then started to be an entrepreneur. It has been quite a shock at the beginning (despite it was my decision) as 5 years ago the industry was not ready for external operative advisors. But I was actually very farsighted as soon a huge earthquake started.”
MORALMODA MAGAZINE TRAVEL
The Duc and Duchesse d’Aumale’s private apartments open after almost two years of restoration. Created between 1845 and 1847 and decorated by Eugène Lami, these eight rooms’ decoration and furniture have been completely restored. An unprecedented opportunity for visitors to experience the magnificence of the Monarchie de Juillet in the only complete princely apartments remaining in France. All images Protected.
One of the Major Eclectic Ensembles Surviving in France The romantic period placed history at the heart of its preoccupations and aspirations. It was a particularly strong inclination for the princes of the Orléans family, notably the Duc d’Aumale, who inherited an ageold château where he succeeded brilliant dynasties, Montmorency and Bourbon-Condé. With the creation of these new apartments, the historian duke ofﬁcially took possession of the château and placed himself in an uninterrupted historical tradition by paying tribute to his predecessors. This ambition was well served by Eugène Lami’s research – he would demonstrate true dedication to archeological and historical exactness, reconstructing the pavement of Henry IV’s portrait (Louvre) in the marble room or copying the chimney of Château de Villeroy (Louvre) for the salon de Condé. Chantilly also has the ﬁrst examples of complete decorative ensembles inspired by historical styles or neo-styles, a fashion that would successfully endure during the Second Empire and after. In the Duchesse’s rooms, the 18th century reigns supreme, indistinctly mixing Louis XV and Louis XVI styles. Here, as in the Tuileries, ladies’ apartments had to reﬂect a precious style, in keeping with the princesses’ rank. Lami visibly took inspiration from
the panelling in the Chantilly princely apartments and from the Singeries decoration, while giving them a new theatrical aspect. The Duc’s rooms are inspired by History. The diningroom which would later become a study is in neoRenaissance style, while the adjacent Salon de Condé is a tribute to the illustrious princes of the cadet branch of the house of Bourbon, in an elegant neoLouis XIV style. The Duc’s bedchamber, in a more eclectic style, reemploys 18th century panelling; the dessus-de-porte depict life in Chantilly through centuries: in this way, Aumale placed himself at the heart of his domain and of its history. The Appartements Privés opened for guided visits in 1993 – they were still practically in the same condition as at the death of the Duc d’Aumale. Some restoration works were undertaken since to maintain them in a satisfying presentation condition: the hangings in the Duchesse’s bedroom were replaced by identical, ones thanks to the Amis du musée Condé in 1971. More recently, several pieces of furniture were restored in 2009-2010, the silk satin hanging of the Salon Violet was rewoven in 2008-2009 and the Petite Singerie restored in 2010-2013.
Shaped over the centuries, the Domaine de Chantilly is an exceptional jewel of French heritage. The Château, the gardens and the Great Stables form a unique ensemble of French art de vivre. Thanks to the support of our donors, the Domaine de Chantilly is gradually recovering its former magniﬁcence with an ambitions restoration programme. Since 2005, this has led to the rehabilitation of the Le Nôtre’s axial design of the gardens, the princely suites in the Château and the courtyard of the Great Stables. The generosity of our donors has also allowed the deployment of an important cultural policy, with major exhibitions (“Poussin, the Massacre of the Innocents – Picasso, Bacon” in 2017 or “Painting the horse races. Stubbs, Géricault, Degas” in 2018) and the opening of new exhibition spaces (the Museum of the Horse in 2013, the Drawings and Prints Gallery in 2017), together with a programme of events such as the Journées des Plantes and the Horse shows, for full calendar programme please visit web-site:
MM: Will this book contribute to expand the contemporary Urban Lebanese identity to other gulf countries and in parallel keep building the mutual communication and understanding in the Middle East region? Tamara: "People in the Middle East have a close connection and profound interest in the Lebanese social and art scene. I hope they regard this book as a deeper connec-tion and understanding of the ripple of layers that define Lebanese identity. The lens of art and graffiti is a unique way of approaching identity it brings to light an unexplored angle and I hope they will now look upon the graffiti differently every time they visit Beirut." MM: Who is the target group for your book and where is it available? In which languages? Tamara "In this first edition the book was released in English, it is being sold on Amazon and Ingram, and most bookstores in US, Canada and Europe and coming soon to several Art Museums around the world. It is available in Lebanon at Virgin bookstores and Antoine as well as on our website theurbanfusion.com It will be coming soon to Brazil and the feature project includes a Portuguese adaptation of the book." Particular vision and a passionate message they were attempting to convey. Some of my favorites notions include the expression “color” used by Karim Tamerji and Said Mahmoud to reflect a certain spesificity or flavor of his neighborhood. As you well know Lebanon has experienced a war most refer to as “civil” as a result the remaining vibrations of that war was sectarian based clashes at times particularly as many neighborhoods in Lebanon were artificially segregated according to religious affiliation during the war. Mahmoud and Tamerji chose to bypass sectarian means of defining identity and instead chose the word color, whether that was a direct derivative of their way of perceiving as an artist I don’t know. I also loved Sandra Kheir Sahyoun’s perception of the Cedar and how it is “rooted” in our identity. In the interview we talked about the Lebanese dias-pora and how they remain “rooted” in their ances-try despite living abroad and spreading their vision elsewhere. I was also very touched by the artist Fish awareness of the Lebanese perseverance in the face of adversity, it is both a blessing and a curse as it involves a certain level of denial, on the wall of USJ university, he wrote the line “Beirut ma Btmoot” Beirut goes on, will never die. MM: What is your next goal for you professionally and what can you share from your private life to the Magazine readers? Tamara: "I am currently acting as Curator for the Wall of Contemplation exhibition at the MACAM Museum. This is a graffiti exhibition funded by the European Union and focuses on the theme of Human Rights and its decrees."
I am hoping to finally complete the novel I am writing on Lebanese Identity. And finally, there is a new Art Book underway, it is still very much in the research/interview phase but hoping to complete thatwithin a year and a half or so. I am the proud mother of two very special boys, who share their mothers’ passion for adventure and travel. I am also passionate about the skies and am a private pilot currently training for a more advanced license."
MORALMODA MAGAZINE Art
PIAGET AT THE 54th ANNUAL GOLDEN CAMERA AWARDS IN BERLIN
JESSICA CHASTAIN IN PIAGET AT THE 54th ANNUAL GOLDEN CAMERA AWARDS IN BERLIN Jessica was stunning in Piaget, wearing an elegant set from the Piaget Mediterranean Garden High Jewellery Collection in 18K white gold set with diamonds, emeralds and tourmalines as well as a massive ring from the Sunny Side of Life High Jewellery collection set with diamonds and one cushion-cut emeralds from Colombia of 9.75 cts. The Golden Camera Awards is a German film and television award of the Funke Mediengruppe, Jessica Chastain has received this year the Award of “Best International Actress”.
MORALMODA MAGAZINE Sports
Dubai World Cup Carnival $12,000,000 DUBAI WORLD CUP SPONSORED BY EMIRATES AIRLINE (GROUP 1) PART OF WORLDT RISHEST DAY OF HORSE RACING "In
Winner: Thunder Snow (Ire) Owner: Godolphin Trainer: Saeed bin Suroor Jockey: Christophe Soumillon Official Time: 2:03.87 (2000m, Track Record: 2:01.38 – TS (2018) Margin of Victory: Nose
It is hard to imagine North America being more impressive than he was four weeks ago in the 1600m Group 2 $350,000 Al Maktoum Challenge Round 1, but he has apparently exited said effort in top shape and will get a chance to stretch out to what many believe is an even better distance for him in this Thursday’s Group 2 $450,000 Al Maktoum Challenge Round 2 over 1900m. A massive son of Dubawi, the Satish Seemar-trained gelding is an overwhelming favourite as he hopes to further materialise the Dubai World Cup dreams of his connections. The other horse is the referenced Cosmo Charlie, who races for the same owner, Ramzan Kadyrov, but is trained by Doug Watson. Adding intrigue is that Cosmo Charlie has proven that he is best when on the lead and is drawn to the immediate outside of North America, whose famously terrible break in the 2018 Dubai World Cup cost him the race and handed winner Thunder Snow an easy lead. A sharp winner of the 2017 Al Bastakiya (Listed) over this trip, he had an overall subpar 4-year-old season, but ended it with sharp return to form when finally allowed to stretch his speed to 2000m in The Entisar (Listed) last out on Dec. 20. Freshened since that 71⁄4-length romp, he has had his form franked when fellow Round 2 entrant New Trails manhandled a handicap field by 10 lengths last month.
Thunder Snow overcame a huge amount of difficulty to become the first horse in history to land consecutive wins in the US$12 million Dubai World Cup sponsored by Emirates Airline (G1). Christophe Soumillon was in the saddle as 12 months ago and the victory capped a superb evening for His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and the Godolphin team who scooped four of the eight thoroughbred races. Thunder Snow was again drawn wide in the 2000m feature and soon adopted a prominent position, but he had to find extraordinary reserves in the run to the line to overhaul Gronkowski by a nose. The latter had chased the pace with North America, who weakened into the field, with American challenger Gunnevera coming through late to be beaten two and three-quarter lengths into third. The 5-year-old defied the widest stall bar one to score and was providing trainer Saeed bin Suroor with a remarkable ninth win in the Dubai World Cup in a winning time of 2 minutes 3.87 seconds. The son of Helmet has now won eight of his 23 career starts with a prize money total of US$16,011,850.
Saeed bin Suroor, Trainer, THUNDER SNOW (1st) —“He is a such a brave horse. I wasn’t sure if he had won, but we had the best jockey in the world on board and he knows him so well. He has won the UAE Derby and now the Dubai World Cup twice on him from wide draws and they are a great team. I think this is my 191st Group 1 winner but it ranks very highly, probably along with Dubai Millennium in 2000 when he won this race. As for Thunder Snow, I will have to speak with His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktoum, but I would like if he could run in America again. Maybe in New York, in Saratoga with the final plan being the Breeders’ Cup Classic at Santa Anita.”
It was almost a fairy tale comeback for 2016 Godolphin Mile (G2) winner One Man Band in December. Off 999 days, he returned to the racetrack looking and performing as if he had not missed a beat. Leading all the way until the last jump of the Dubai Creek Mile (Listed), he was nipped by aptly named stablemate Stunned. Said effort followed an extensive layoff that tested the patience of his connections, but ultimately reminded fans why he was one of the fastest and toughest horses to race in the UAE. In the end, though, what looked like a new beginning quickly turned into a last hurrah, as an old tendon injury resurfaced and trainer Doug Watson retired the Sheikh Saeed bin Mohammed Al Maktoum-owned 8-year-old horse. “He was our first (Dubai) World Cup night winner and he was a superstar,” Watson said. “I think, at one point, he held or was just off the track record for every Meydan distance from 1400m to 1900m. He was just so big for us. “The year after he won the Godolphin Mile, he came out and we had been cantering for two days starting back the next season and he ended up with a tendon issue. We had to put him away for the year and brought him back the next year and we were going to run him seven furlongs up the hill in a conditions race (at Jebel Ali). His other tendon got a small lesion in it, so we had to stop there. We basically thought he was retired and I didn’t want to train such a nice horse with two bowed tendons. They weren’t bad, but they were there. “I started the horses back this year in August and I happened to be down talking to the foreman and walked by his stall and he was whinnying. I thought, well, he’s just sitting here, let’s just get him started and see how it goes. If something happens a little bit, if the tendon goes, we’ll stop. We were able to get him to that race and just missed winning with him after almost a 1,000 days layoff. He actually came out of it fine, but just about a week later, (the tendon issue) reappeared. We scanned it and, you know, I wasn’t going to push him anymore. He had done enough for us. He has done the world for us. He got us on the map.” Stud plans have not yet been determined for the son of super-sire Pivotal out of Group 1-placed Cape Cross mare Musicanna. The Irish-bred $129,523 Goffs November 2011 purchase retires with eight wins from 17 starts and earnings just shy of $1 million. Previously in the care of Charlie Appleby for his first 2 starts (August and September) of 2013, he raced under Watson’s care for the remainder of his career.
HUBLOT'S HOR UNIVERSE IS FILL
The entirely new Classic Fusion Ferrari GT is available in three different cases: Titanium (limited edition of 1,000 pieces), King Gold (limited edition of 500 pieces) and 3D Carbon (limited edition of 500 pieces). 26,900 EUR
The long-term collaboration between Hublot and Ferrari is one of a kind and an endless source of creative inspiration that henceforth intertwines the destiny of these two prestigious houses. From the Big Bang Ferrari to the MP-05 LaFerrari or the Techframe, the race for innovation and refinement encapsulates the unstoppable creative impetus that drives the Ferrari Design Centre and the Hublot team. From the start of their union, Hublot and Ferrari had, above all, been involved in the worlds of racing and Formula 1 with the Big Bang Ferrari editions. From 2017, with the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph which celebrated the 70th anniversary of Ferrari, Hublot and Ferrari joined the universe of GT and this year they are going even further in this world, which has always defined a travel philosophy that combines tradition, elegance and technical perfection.
Titanium: 550.NS.1800.RX.ORL19 Limited to 200 pieces EURO 11'500 USD 9'500
Reminiscent of a jet engine, the HM9 case is a geometrically complex combination of milled sapphire crystal and grade 5 titanium. When we first brought the design to our manufacturing Friends, their response was clear: not possible. We did not conceive HM9 with current manufacturing methods in mind; its extreme curves and acute angles required new manufacturing standards and techniques.
Carbon Black: 645.QN.1117.RX Carbon Blue: 645.QL.7117.RX
OROLOGICAL LLED WITH ART
Inside, an equally complex manual winding movement developed fully in house; the result of three years of development, with the accumulated experience that came with our previous 14 calibres. A nod to Horological history and our Legacy Machine line, HM9’s two lateral pods each house a flying balance wheel and fully independent regulating system, visible under domes of sapphire crystal. A third pane of sapphire crystal reveals the central gearbox of the HM9 engine: a planetary differential that averages the output of both balance wheels to provide one stable reading.
King Gold: 550.OS.1800.RX.ORL19 Limited to 100 pieces 22'200 EURO 22'500 USD
Limited to 100 pieces each 93'500 EUR 94'700 USD
This double edition limited to 100 models beats to the rhythm of the new HUB6020 tourbillon movement, specially designed for this case. Another first: the Spirit of Big Bang is, for the first time, fitted with the “One-Click” fastening system, allowing the strap to be changed easily and quickly. (Image above)
King GoldPavé: 550.OS.1800.RX.ORL19 Set with 210 Diamonds 32,100 EURO / 32,500 USD
“When I am asked ‘What innovative and modern idea develops your painting?’ Without hesitation, I answer fusion... Using different graphic styles (cubism, impressionism, surrealism, figurative, etc.) on the same plane or over my works—just like a film director uses special effects to tell a story—will always represent an extremely exciting challenge for me.” Marc Ferrero. (Image below)
What better than the stone with the highest refractive index to reflect the mirror-polished finish typical of the plastic artist's work? On four of the timepieces, the bezel – a dodecagon which has characterised the creative partnership since '17 , is set with 54 diamonds and sits on a case which is either fully set with 210 diamonds or partially set with 112 diamonds. Free from precious stones, the other two watches focus on the sharp-angled forms characteristic of Orlinski art.
DEFY Inventor w With its disruptive new "Zenith Oscillator" control system, Zenith is revolutionising mechanical watchmaking. High frequency, chronometric precision, reliability and stability: the oscillator developed and patented by the Manufacture replaces the traditional sprung balance used for more than three centuries.
THE LM1 XIA HANG IS A â€˜PERFOR
Our first cover story and exclusive personal interview with Mr Alessandro Maria Ferreri, CEO of The Style Gate, in conversation about concep...
Published on May 3, 2019
Our first cover story and exclusive personal interview with Mr Alessandro Maria Ferreri, CEO of The Style Gate, in conversation about concep...