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ENGLISH GERMAN Nr 19  – i /2017 EURO 15


LINDBERG »1253 «

WEL C OM E # 19


design by ¡ made by


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I N S P I R E D

B Y

N AT U R E ’ S

E F F O R T L E S S

B E A U T Y.


W W W . S A L T O P T I C S . C O M


C

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O N E

EDITORIAL

If our current cover shoot had been a video production for a song, the choices would have been infinite. This issue’s theme – ONE – has been a goldmine of inspiration for artists, famously explored by the likes of U2 with their song of the same name. And in line with the art direction of our shoot, Justin Timberlake famously crooned: “We’re making two reflections into ONE, ‘cause it’s like you‘re my mirror, my mirror staring back at me.” But are we really ONE at the moment? Politically speaking, that seems quite far from the truth right now, at least judging from the talk shows and election campaigns and endless barrage of pros and cons tossed out over the airwaves. Then again, we’re not trying to fan the flames of cultural and political debate. We would much rather offer an aesthetic take on the concept of oneness and duality – because without black, white could never exist. And who is to say which is more beautiful? This issue’s cover concept utilized mirrors to literally fragment and reflect ONE image into many on a graphical level. Quite happy with the results, we also extended the concept to our Collection Shoot on page 112. We were sort of dreaming when we made it, so excuse us if we go astray. 32


EDITORIAL

LINDBERG »8582« | »1252« »8405« | »n .o.w. D16 G T«

photos S T EFAN DONGU S conce pt CARO ROS S a ss i s t ant AS T RID S P IERING s t yli n g ARKADIU S GIES EK a t 2 1 AGENCY h ai r & m ake - up ANNE- L ENA COX a t 2 1 AGE NCY mod els GABRIEL a t P MA & MARV IN a t NO TOY S

Back to reality, we took a highly inspiring trip to visit the guys behind blitz motorcycles at their Parisian workshop/man cave. You can

literally smell the oil and grease on the pages featuring Fred and Hugo at their garage. That story was worlds away from our usual fare, but to us it’s all ONE and the same. Other amazing photo shoots took us all around the globe, from Tenerife to Cape Town, from New York to Berlin. This issue pays homage to time-honored labels and newly launched brands, because past and future, in a way, are also ONE. On that note, we are especially excited about having met grand seigneur Jean-Francois Rey in Tokyo. On yet another level, ONE is about to take on a new meaning for our magazine. This issue, number 19, marks the very last time we’ll feature a “1” on the cover (at least until number 100). So we’re officially outgrowing our teenage years, not altogether sure if we are ready to face life in our twenties. Then again, who ever is? It’s all part of life, constantly moving forward, ONE step at a time. We hope you enjoy this issue. SD 33


IM P RIN T

MASTHEAD EDITOR IN CHIEF

Stefan Dongus dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

L AYOUT

Caro Ross ross@spectr-magazine.com

EDITORIAL STAFF

Astrid Spiering spiering@spectr-magazine.com Dirk Vogel vogel@spectr-magazine.com

PROOFRE ADING Franca Rainer

TR ANSL ATION Dirk Vogel

ONLINE EDITOR

Astrid Spiering press@spectr-magazine.com

PHOTOGR APHERS

Angelika Buettner Diana Diederich Stefan Dongus Ulrich Hartmann Heli Hinkel Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter Stefan Kapfer Sabine Liewald Michael Mann Raphael Schmitz

PUBLISHER

Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine

CEOS

Stefan Dongus, Holger von Krosigk

DISTRIBUTION

DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg Germany dpv-network.de

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F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg Germany fw-medien.de SPECTR is published three times per year.

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ENGLISH GERMAN

German Edition

Nr 19 – i /2017 EURO 15

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This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.


INSIGHT

SPECTR, THEY STYLE SPECTR is all about eyewear, but when it comes down to photo shoots, there’s a lot more involved in setting the stage and creating an ambiance for eyewear to sparkle. The number of actual spectacles featured in each issue is dwarfed by all the clothes and accessories our stylists are hauling out to each and every photo shoot. In that sense, our stylists play a major role in directing the visual appearance of our magazine. They are the dark horses of the industry, quietly pulling the strings behind the scenes. For this issue’s Insights, we want you to meet three stylists involved in the making of SPECTR.

BODO ERNLE Like many folks who decided to make the German capital Berlin their new home, Bodo Ernle comes from a colorful background. After finishing his education as a retail

TRANG CAO

salesman in the textiles segment, Bodo left his small town

Our most stylish global citizen hails from a Vietnamese

origins in the Swabia province of Germany for big city

family, but was born – not in Saigon – but in the Bavarian

lights. And it must have made an impression: Because after

town of Regensburg. Trang was raised and educated in Eggenfelden, and chose to study Fashion Design in the big city of Munich. The now 28-year-old followed up by assisting several stylists on shoots for Burda publishers before deciding to do her own thing in late 2015. Since then, Trang Cao has provided her services to commercial and magazine photo shoots on an international level. Asked about her own stylistic preferences in terms of clothes, she offered: Rather clean, only low-top shoes and with an emphasis on comfort – also because the life of a stylist is constantly “on the run” from one shoot to the next. You can check out her work on the photo shoot Armed Response with Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter on page 184. And does Trang Cao ever slow down? Rarely ever, as her main hobbies include traveling around the world and sampling food from international cuisines.

ARK ADIUS GIESEK

putting in time as the Fashion Editor of Bravo Girl ma-

Aside from wielding quite an impressive and unusual

returned to Berlin as an independent style director and

name, Arkadius continues to amaze us with his internatio-

producer in the service of international publications and

nal background, extensive travel schedule and work ethic.

fashion clients. This issue marks Bodo’s third assignment

Based in the German town of Dusseldorf, the trained fashion

for SPECTR, and we have surely come to appreciate his po-

designer spends half of his time working in Amsterdam.

sitive energy and creative vision on-set. Asked about the

Arkadius enjoys the constant challenges of working with

best part of his job, Bodo instantly offered “traveling”. His

different models and choosing the most exclusive outfits

personal highlights include editorial meetings in Ecuador,

and accessories to bring their personalities to life. He

productions in Rio de Janeiro and editorial trips to New

thrives in an environment marked by constantly changing

York City. Check out his current shoot Come of Age with

fashions, new teams, and various locations across the

Michael Mann on page 88.

gazine in Munich and correspondent work in Paris, Bodo

globe. It’s all part of the package for Arkadius, who puts an emphasis on always remaining curious and open to new influences in his work as a stylist – and beyond. Asked about his greatest personal strengths, he offered his precision and sense of order. Both of these qualities reflect in his work on our cover shoot and the Collection Shoot Alter Ego (page 112) where he applied form-fitted clothing with millimeter precision to support the photographer’s playful use of lighting and reflections.

36


FO C US

CONTENT

56

A PA RT M E N T

by Stefan Dong us

82 H E A T

modo

88

2017 Collection Highlights

COME OF AGE

by Michael Mann

112

A LT E R E G O

lindberg

124

– New 2017 st yles

HYPNOTIZED

by Stefan K apfer

184

152

PHOTOBOX

by Sabine Liewald

SPRINGBREAK

by A ngelika Buettner

166

ARMED RESPONSE

by Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter

B AY & W A T C H198

by Stefan Dong us

212 F R E E Z E maybach

2017 St yles

220

FINISHINGS

by Ulrich Hartmann


44

CONTENT

JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY

From past to present to future

52 G L C O

New: Metal collection

54

T H E M E S H O O T 1/ 2

5 shades of nude

78

72

A L L I E D M E TA L W O R K S A lways a step ahead

FASHION DIRECTION Gala’s Marcus Luft

80

THE GERMAN COLLECTIVE New collabo with mykita

CONTEMPORARY TRADITION germanon gambini

102

i leggeri collection

CAZAL 001 106A legend lives on

CA MPA IGN IN SIGH T

leisure society’s

108

tides of A koya

138

122,164, 196,218 E S S E N T I A L S

Frames, accessories & favorite pieces

148

BLITZ MOTORCYCLES

Metal frames and vintage bikes

EINSTOFFEN

From apparel to eyewear

THEME SHOOT 2/2

180

Color mania

EDITOR’S CHOICE

182

sol sol ito

210

COLL ABO WITH UP CYCLES To win: The SPECTR bike

A BS O RB


S

B


EDITORIAL

5 MONTHS LATER An editor’s point of view

photo RAP HAE L S C HM I T Z , t e x t A S T R I D S P I E R I N G

Next up, I worked with copenhagen specs on creating the first-ever SPECTR Award. Now we can hardly wait to hand out the first trophies

The last five months have been an action-packed whirlwind. For Silmo tradeshow I headed to Paris, press events brought me to Munich

at the event in March for outstanding designs in two categories: Best

and two photo shoots took me all the way to Cape Town. The latter

RX Frames and Best Sunglasses. By the way, all exhibitors at this year’s

was a special highlight, but more about that later.

copenhagen specs are qualified to enter.

Some readers may recall that Silmo was my official introduction

And in order to spread some pre-Christmas cheer, I started our

to the eyewear universe. What was my absolute favorite? Definitely

‘December Lottery’ – and the response has been nothing short of

meeting all the people behind those amazing eyewear brands! In Paris

overwhelming. At this point, I would also like to say thanks to Elisa

I also had a chance to meet the guys behind blitz motorcycles: Fred

Peth for her incredible artwork that revealed her special talent for illus-

and Hugo are beyond a doubt the most charming mechanics I have

trations around eyewear. Shortly before Christmas I had the chance

ever encountered in my life. Engine oil not only scented the air during

to escape frosty Germany and head to the Southern hemisphere:

the photo shoot, it also literally stuck to my hands as I left the work-

Together with SPECTR editor Stefan Dongus I hopped on a plane to

shop. Eyewear, as it turns out, is a full-body experience!

Cape Town. But make no mistake, this was a work-related trip – with

My first press event in Munich followed soon afterwards, and it

a hefty schedule including two photo productions, not to mention

was an equally pleasant and informative function, with lots of friend-

putting the final touches on this issue of SPECTR while “on the road”.

ly faces. Freshly returned to the offices, it was time to tackle some

Nevertheless, we managed to squeeze in a trip to the beach as well as

items on my growing to-do list. How about creating the coolest bicyc-

climbing to the top of Lions Head mountain.

le of all times with the dudes behind up cycles? Done! The SPECTR

Well, these are just a few impressions from my past five months in

Bicycle is a true eye catcher, and it’s almost sad that we are raffling it

the great wide world of eyewear. Here’s to more adventures in the fu-

off to one of our readers – I would have loved to keep it around as my

ture! I hope you will have at least as much fun reading our 19th issue

official office bike.

as we had making it.

Sincerely, AS

a r t work E L I S A P ET H , v int a ge f ra m e S I L HOU ET T E, bu s i ne ss card U P CYCL ES , ke ych ai n COP ENHAG E N SPE CS, p ol a roid TAKEN AT SILMO , photogra phy TAKEN AT BLITZ , hone y an d can dle BROUGHT FROM CAPETOWN 42


HISTORY

Eyewear today is an integral part of the fashion world, so it’s easy to forget that things used to be different. The rise of eyeglasses into trendy accessories was fueled by innovative eyewear designers such as Jean-François Rey. For over 30 years, the French luminary has been blending colors and shapes with unparalleled style and pizzazz, while introducing groundbreaking frame designs that continue to challenge the status quo in the global eyewear business. Shy and reclusive in his personal demeanor, Jean44

François Rey made a name for himself with bold, innovative, and often tongue-in-cheek designs during the extravagant 1980s. As one of the first designers in our industry, Monsieur Rey understood that eyewear design and haute couture are birds of the same feather, and founded his own label to celebrate the union between both worlds. Almost immediately after launching his own brand, Rey began a long line of collaborations with fashion houses, starting with the likes of Issey Miyake and Marithé François Girbaud.


HISTORY

FROM PAST TO PRESENT TO FUTURE

Jean François Rey

YE A R S

t e x t FRAN C A RAINE R , p or t ra it S T E FA N D O N G US

contempor a r y eyewea r design

The formula worked: The Frenchman’s sunglasses collaborations took over fashion runways by storm with their cool swagger, inspiring him to create his own company, BLI-DBP, with headquarters in Marseille. Today, Rey’s eyewear estate distributes four successful sub-brands, each marked by its own style and brand identity. Two years ago, the founder expanded the lineup with the luxury collection Jean-François Rey as the perfect platform for bringing back the great classics of the roaring 1980s. 45

In our spectr interview, the 70-year-old design pioneer reveals why his life plan never included anything else besides eyewear, and how he manages to maintain an incredibly high level of creativity over the course of a 30-year career. Not to mention raising the bar and continuously setting trends, while casually running a successful eyewear empire together with his wife. The man, the legend – Jean-François Rey in his own words.


HISTORY

although I ended up going to school for International Law, the love

Bonjour Jean-François! We have been trying to set up a photo shoot for

for eyewear design ended up prevailing, so I went in, head over heels!

quite some time now. And while it didn’t work out in Europe, we’ve now

Throughout your career, you made a conscious decisions to work with

linked up here in Tokyo. Let’s start right from the beginning: When did

grandmasters of the fashion industry. A clever move that soon raised

your passion for eyewear design initially develop?

your international profile. Was that premeditated or simply driven by a

My roots are in the mountainous Jura region, which is the cradle

love for fashion?

of many French eyewear companies. My parents already worked in the eyewear industry, so honestly, I could have never imagined

It had little to do with premeditation, and it was a very personal

anything else than joining the business. In the beginning, desig-

decision. The fashion business has always been a source of fascina-

ning eyewear was nothing more than a passion project. A hobby

tion to me and continues to influence my work today. Back then, I

for weekends and during the school holidays. At the age of 16, I

really gravitated towards the entire “Côte d’Azur” vibe, captured

designed my first eyewear collection for my father’s company. And

by great designers such as Philippe Salvet, Lothars, and H.L Chapuis, all of whom had a massive following in Asia. Soon after we opened

2000

2003

2006

2007

Change really is the only constant

our showroom in Paris in the 1980s, I had the opportunity to

and her always-on-point combination of themes and materials

design a couple of sunglasses collections for fashion brands such

run deep within our brand’s DNA. And that is exactly what makes

Agnès B., Bensimon, Issey Miyake, and Marithé François Girbaud.

us stand out from others: We have succeeded in finding our own

More than 30 years in the eyewear business, and your work has always stood

unique and unmistakable language.

out as creative and originals. Some even shifted the paradigm in the entire

The launch of our »JF2180« model was another significant mo-

industry. Looking back at your journey, what were the biggest highlights of

ment. A racy, innovative concept that really helped our brand name

your career?

and notoriety reach a new level. The j.f.rey Signature Style soon

There were many. First of all, meeting my wife, Joelle. As our

became an international reference point in the eyewear industry.

company’s Art Director, she quickly discovered her personal style

For 30 years now I have been able to make a living from my passion

and perfectly understands how to blend acetate and colors with

and it’s like one great adventure. While I’m on my journey, I con-

style and grace. The color nuances, her bold creative risk taking

tinue to discover new facets during my work with all these people. 46


HISTORY

My eyewear is a genuine attempt of emphasizing the true personality

– these are the kind of qualities you need in order to work for me.

of the wearer.

Currently, our designers are busy exploring new blends of vari-

Over the course of three decades, you’ve seen a lot of trends come and

ous materials in search of lightweight and refined combinations.

go. Which materials and silhouettes would you consider timeless?

The j.f.rey label in particular puts great emphasis on lightweight

Acetate, metal, stainless steel, and titanium. And, for the past few years, also leather. We actually did an entire collection crafted from

frames.

On that note, how would you describe the j.f.rey style in three words?

leather, called Jean-François Rey au Masculin, which scored big

Differentiated, creative, and colorful are three adjectives that we

among eyewear aficionados. Actually, the work of our designers is

continue to hear from our customers. But you could also narrow it

a lot like that of scientists: They work in a laboratory, research new

down to an eccentric, innovative, and contemporary style.

materials and join them together, all the while breaking established

Eyeglasses have become fashionable accessories, used to enhance the

codes on both a creative and technical level. The courage to try new

individual style of the wearer. That’s also the reason why many wearers

things, overcome boundaries, take risks by disrupting conventions

own more than one frame. They like to match their outfit to their glasses,

2009

2013

2015

and vice versa. What do you think about this course of events?

2016

shame! Color accents, shapes, and materials can marvelously en-

For us as designers, that trend is headed in exactly the right direction!

hance someone’s appearance, whether it’s the entire personality or

Nowadays there are so many stylistic conventions, colorways,

just a character trait. In my opinion, eyewear is the perfect accessory

prints and shapes, that eyewear has rightfully evolved into a

to express someone’s style and creativity. In 1995, you founded your own company. Today, BLI-DBP is managing

fashion staple in its own right. Scrolling through various social

four eyewear brands (j.f. rey, boz eyewear, volte face and sky eyes). It’s

media channels or browsing a fashion magazine these days, you cannot help but notice how important glasses have become, and

grown into somewhat of an empire, run together with your wife. How did

how consciously they are being employed to supplement certain

that happen and what does each of your brands stand for?

outfits. Ultimately, what choice of model you end up wearing boils

BLI-DBP has been in business for over 20 years with headquarters

down to a highly personal decision. Some wearers tend to be more

in Marseille. Our collections are released under four main labels,

bold, while others remain rather conservative... which is a bit of

which break down as follow: 47


HISTORY

• Jean-François Rey (Au Masculin, 1985) – positioned in the upper

j.f. rey

price segment, top-shelf.

Our main brand with models for men and women, crafted from metal, acetate or a combination of both materials. It’s inspired by

boz eyewear

architecture and very urban. Within the brand, we have launched

My wife created this line as a reflection of her self: colorful and pas-

three sub-labels:

sionate. Models for bold women, highly individualistic with great

• Kids & Teens: True to its moniker, this is our kid’s line. This

emphasis on colors, themes, and the interplay of various materials.

year’s collection was extremely well received, much to our

volte face

delight.

Our Parisian label crafted from acetate. Feminine and glamorous shapes for today’s refined and elegant women.

• Petite: For petite women with slender faces. We are especially proud of this collection, since we are the first on the market with

sky eyes

an offering of this kind.

Our sunglasses collection is “100% Fashion.” A great hit due its

1996

2002

J . F. R E Y

J . F. R E Y

»J107«

»J530«

Masterpieces created by the French eyewear designer

variety of colors and shapes, together with affordable price points. You and your wife Joelle have consciously divided your work and private

in, you know! I also have to admit that I sometimes work solo on my own “private” collections, which has led to models such as the

life. How may we imagine your professional collaboration? Who is in

j.f.rey »Nemo« and »Nautillus«. But we really make an effort to

charge of what?

separate our work and private lives, although it’s never that easy.

Who is the typical j.f.rey customer? Who buys your products?

I would describe ourselves as a creative duo – highly different but compatible at the same time. These opposites are the key to the

Every brand has its own universe, replete with its own customers.

success of our company and our many collections. Roles within the

The bold style of the boz Collection tends to attract women that

company are clearly divided: My wife is in charge of color selection

are true to themselves and want to express their creativity. The

and materials, as well as sourcing and relationships with our sup-

other brands tend to have a more heterogeneous clientele. But

pliers. My role is to run the business and try to inspire and guide

generally speaking, our designs, stylistic impulses, signature color-

our creative team with every new collection – I like to get my opinion

ways, and perfectly fitted frames from exclusive materials tend

48


HISTORY

to speak to a person who likes to be surrounded with beautiful

disrupt established codes and have no comfort zone whatsoever.

things. Aesthetic individuals, you may say.

At the moment, our designers are working on extremely thin acetate

The business is evolving at a fast clip, there are always new innovative

frames, novel hinge systems, and a new “Fil de fer” collection

materials and processes. How do you manage to keep up with the pace

crafted from wire, which we can’t wait to premiere at opti Munich

and what kind of innovations are you working on right now?

in January 2017.

Our innovative spirit definitely benefits from the fact that j.f.rey

30 years in the business, four brands – that’s quite a prolific output of

has become an established brand in the eyewear community.

frame designs. What are your top five models that keep inspiring you

Progression and the desire to continuously reinvent ourselves have

today?

always been our driving force. And this creative approach is exactly

• The »J530« model by j.f.rey crafted from acetate.

what allows to keep pushing the industry forward and continue

• The »JF2180« because of its thought-out and groundbreaking

to set new trends without having to be followers. We take risks,

design for its time. The concept really proved the impetus for

2005

2005

BOZ EYEWEAR

J . F. R E Y

J . F. R E Y

»G e niu s Silmo d'O r 2005«

»JF2180 SL L imit ed E d ition«

»O ffice r 6565«

j.f.rey as a brand.

2016

The end consumer is being bombarded with a steady influx of

• The »J107«, a highly delicate frame from metal and bronze acetate

new brands, discounted price points, and excessive offers. Despite

• The »boz Genius« model, winner of the 2005 Silmo d’Or.

this climate of “commercial aggression” we continue to tell our

• And for a somewhat younger style, the »Officer 6565« sunglasses

own story at our pace, full of passion, values and lots of beautiful

from the jean-françois rey 1985 collektion.

success stories. Our collections keep up with the evolution of the

The number of eyewear labels is simply staggering, so is the pressure to innovate. Do you sometimes feel overwhelmed or unable to keep up – or

market without ever losing the DNA behind our brands, which is very dear to me.

out of ideas?

Where do you find inspiration, Jean-François?

I will admit that, much like any other creative person, I sometimes

“Everything is Inspiration.” From architecture to urbanism, to

lack inspiration. Sometimes the enormous competition paired with

design, art, different cultures, nature and fashion, interior design

the difficult economic context can become drag here and there.

and brand-new technologies – it all informs our collections. Japan 49


HISTORY

has always and continues to be fascinating and inspiring to me, in

into fashion accessories by playing with new designs. Now come to

a variety of subtle ways. Two examples include the »JF2398« und

think of how many there are now! Speaking of new designs, what do you have in the works? Are you satis-

»JF2408« that fold out like an origami. Looking around, are you following any other eyewear brands?

fied with your latest collection?

I have great respect for the Japanese brand Factory 900 with their

Two years ago, we started the jean-françois rey line, which

strong, bold designs. Those guys really have some stones and

has released the Au Masculin and 1985 collections. We rely on

always work with amazing materials and shapes. Alain Mikli defi-

noble materials, all models are rather elegant, high-grade and have a

nitely deserves to be mentioned, since he’s had an enormous influ-

refined aesthetic. These collections combine our entire savoir-faire

ence on the eyewear scene in the early 1980s. Back then, you only

and creativity. And we’ll be expanding this direction with a few

had about ten designers who even dared to transform eyeglasses

new models this year. I’m especially fond of the 1985 collection,

J. F. Rey brand communication guidelines for 2017: Let’s keep it colorful!

because it’s an homage to our styles from the 1980s. These new

happy and to keep surprising our customers. Our team has grown

models give customers a chance to rediscover the history of our

this year and we’ve brought a few new designers on board. That’s

brand and learn more about who we are by looking at original

a big breath of fresh air. We welcome it and use it as motivation for

1980s photos. We had a ball bringing these classics back to life and

moving forward!

the response to the collection has been incredible so far! That’s the

Anything else you would like to add?

greatest birthday gift possible! We want to say thanks to our loyal

I would like to use the opportunity to thank all our customers who

customers and our fans.

follow us via our social media channels. We have been late to the

What would you be doing with your life if it wasn’t for eyewear design?

game, but our online community is steadily growing. I’m always

International diplomat or architect.

happy to see images of our products in storefronts, whether it’s at

What are your wishes for 2017?

shops in France or abroad. You guys are so creative!

To keep having just as much fun in my work, to make other people 50

Major thanks for the interview, Monsieur Rey!


M AT E R I A L W O R L D

GLCO »R i vie ra«

photo S T E FAN D ON GU S a ssis t a nt AS T RID SPI E R I N G s t ylin g M ART IN A N E L L E S h a ir & m a ke - up J AS M I N ZEL EN K O c / o S H I N E w it h CHANEL & BU MBL E & BU MBL E mo d el BE N J AM IN a t K ULT M O D E L S 52


M AT E R I A L W O R L D

GLCO

»Toledo«

New: Metal collection

»R i vie ra« Over the past five years, garrett leight californica optical (glco) has developed a loyal following thanks

to its deep assortment of unisex acetate frames. Created by designer Garrett Leight, the glasses have become the darlings of celebrities and influencers in the U.S. – and bey-

»K inne y«

ond. For the upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the California-based brand expands its design horizons: One can look forward to a range of metal optical and sunglasses available at glco stores and select retailers. The metal frames are marked by clean lines, inspired by mid-century modern designs as well as elements native to the American Southwest such as intricate filigree detailing

»C an al«

and a variety of luxurious finishes. As a prime example, the »Riviera« model is an aviator style with a striking double bridge design, featuring a delicate upper line while the lower, bolder bridge is adorned with a Southwestern pattern. Definitely one to look out for in 2017.

»L innie«

»Inne s«

»S e ville« 53


COLLAB OF THE ISSUE

VOLT

Mykita Mylon X The German Collective photo RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z

For what is now their second collabo, young upstarts the german

retail experiences. In line with this exclusive image, the unisex »Volt«

collective (TGC) joined forces with mykita to keep the ball rolling

model will be released in a limited run of 100 pairs. By the time this

with the »Volt« model. For a quick recap, TGC is an alliance between

story goes to print, the equally contemporary and sporty glasses will

five German optical stores that kicked off with a collab with LA-based

most likely have sold out, but take a chance at any of the five stores. Featured here, we present the »Volt« in a Storm Grey colorway,

brand glco in April 2016. Released in December, the new joint venture connects a bit closer to home with Berlin-based designer label

marked by a double bridge and extremely flat Mirror Black lenses.

mykita, but still packs lots of unique back stories and features.

Behind the sleek frame lies mykita’s advanced 3D-printing method – called laser sintering – that allows for crafting equally delicate and

As for TGC, their back story includes the first of its kind alliance behind five retailers across Germany, namely specs (Berlin), Six

robust shapes. With its fashionable exterior and performance features

Million Glasses (Hamburg), Leidmann (München), Steingasse 14

under the hood, the »Volt« can easily make the leap from sports into

(Heidelberg), and Klar (Darmstadt). Equally important is the fact that

business meetings to the nightlife. Available exclusively at TGC

all retailers share the same passion for high-end brands and authentic

stores, while supplies last.

54


AP ART M EN T

Some buildings are just as beautiful on the inside as on the outside. Interior and exterior blend into one fluid impression, with open floor plans leading naturally into open spaces. One such building was our photo shoot location in Cape Town’s posh Higgovale district. And to make the transfer from interior to exterior spaces a fluid one, many of the featured frames were equipped with lenses by transitions. These innovative photochromic lenses automatically darken in contact with bright sunlight, letting wearers casually wander over to the pool without fumbling for different eyewear.

B Y S T E FA N D O N G U S a ssis t a nt A S T R ID S P IERING s t yl in g M A RT I NA NEL L ES h a ir & m a ke -up J AS MIN ZEL ENKO c/ o S HINE wi th C H A N EL & B UMBL E & BU MBL E re touch G L A M T OU CH mod el s B E N J A MIN a t KU LT MODEL S , I R I N A & M A R I JANA a t MOS T WANT ED p rod uc t ion F I R S T P RODU CT IONS CT, s p e c ia l t h a n k s to J O loca t ion C A P E T OW N, HIGGOVAL E


IC! BERLIN »F ra n c e s c a M . «

polo BEN SHERMAN, pants PATRIZIA PEPE, shoe s MELVIN & HAMILTON, belt COUNTRYROAD

» C a rl a L . «

dre ss & s hoe s MICHAE L KORS


LINDBERG »1252« l e n s e s i n g re y

t r a nsi t ions

pants TIGER OF SWEDEN, pullove r FILIPPA K, wa tch KAPTEN & SON


ROL F SPEC TACL E S »Tra c t io n « l e n s e s i n e m e ra l d

t r a nsi t ions

suit VALENTIN GAUTHIER, polo FRED PERRY


LINDBERG t r a nsi t ions

» 8 311« l e n s e s i n s a p p h i re

dre ss KARL LAGERFELD, shoe s MICHAEL KORS


FA C E À FA C E » Ph ilo 1« t r a n s i t i o n s l e n s e s i n s a p p h i re dre ss STEFFEN SCHRAUT

»A k i ko 2« l e n s e s i n g re y

t r a nsi t ions

dre ss MICHAEL KORS


GLCO » S e v ill e «

pullove r FALKE, shor ts FILIPPA K, wa tch KAPTEN & SON

»Tol e d o «

dre ss 1 2 3 PARIS


ROL F SPEC TACL E S »Snipe« lenses in amber

t r a nsi t ions

shir t PATRIZIA PEPE, suit STRENESSE, wa tch KAPTEN & SON, shoe s MELVIN & HAMILTON


EINSTOFFEN » C h a uf f e u r«

pans t & coa t TIGER OF SWEDEN, pullove r FALKE, shoe s HEINRICH DINKELACKER, wa tch STYLIST’S OWN


EINSTOFFEN »Mata Har i«

dre ss TED BAKER, shoe s MAI PIU SENSE


PERSOL »3165 - S «

clothing HESSNATUR


O PT I 2 0 17 2 8- 3 0 J A NU A R Y / S T A ND 6 1 2 H A L L C 4

W e c o r d ia ll y i nv i te you to c om e to m e e t u s at o u r s t an ds J . F . R E Y S T A ND 5 0 8 & B O Z S T A ND 6 1 2 , H A L L E C 4


BRAND PROFILE

Al w

AL ET M D ead L I E ah A L s te p

sa ay

W OR KS

A L LIED ME TA L WORK S » B 070 « & » B 0 9 0 « 72


BRAND PROFILE

t e x t D IRK V OGE L, photos R A P H A E L S C H M I T Z

The eyewear grapevine had been buzzing for a while: Supposedly, iconic California optical brand BARTON PERREIRA had a new label in the works, powered by new technologies, innovative materials – perhaps even an entirely new approach. According to persistent rumors, the designer brand founded in 2007 by Bill Barton and Patty Perreira was setting out to showcase a new blend of technology and luxury. Official conformation arrived in early 2016 when the curtain finally dropped: The first ALLIED METAL WORKS collection introduced future-oriented technology – focused on a screw-less hinge design patented by an Icelandic designer – combined with smart, refined frame silhouettes hand-crafted in Japan. As the next evolution, the brand’s second collection will release in 2017 with some key technical refinements. In preparation for the new release, spectr spoke to Bill Barton about the genesis of the brand, its design DNA, and the “allies” behind ALLIED METAL WORKS.

The name alone carries substantial weight. allied metal works sounds solid, somewhat like heavy metal and hard,

hands-on labor. So it’s even more surprising to actually get a chance to hold a pair of AMW frames in your hand: Delicate, precise, light as a feather, and uncompromisingly futuristic – with a highly recognizable design aesthetic and form language. Then again, what else did we expect from barton perreira? Over the years,

the brand’s consistent output of ele-

But despite these ideal conditions for starting a new

vated designs brought retail partner-

brand, we couldn’t help but play devil’s advocate by asking

ships with the world’s most exclusive

whether the market even needs another label right now?

boutiques, not to mention celebrity

“We didn’t want to just put ‘another brand’ into the mar-

collaborations with the likes of Chloe

ket,” said CEO and co-founder Bill Barton, who spent four

Sevigny, Giovanni Ribisi and eyewear

years building AMW with his three partners. “It has been

designer Christian Roth.

a process and dedication to crafting a brand that evolves

allied metal works in 2’nd generation

around new technologies. We call it ‘technical luxury.’ Our goal is to create something that is fresh, simple and innovative – some-

Gunnarsson – now one of the four “allies” behind allied

thing that will get our retailers and

metal works –

consumers excited!”

for a screw-less eyewear frame. The designer’s crafty

Barton initially got excited a few

and learned about his patented concept

hinge design replaces conventional screws with a patent-

years ago when he encountered

protected titanium spring, which requires no tightening or

Icelandic eyewear designer Gunnar

maintenance after fitting. Almost instantly, Bill Barton saw the potential for something new: After all, lots of people in our industry can deliver technology. But not everyone

“I am more of a hopeless romantic. I wear my heart on my sleeve which I think gives my designs more soulfulness.” PAT T Y P ER R EI R A

can deliver style. So why not blend Gunnarson’s forwardlooking tech with the fashionable, progressive designs that are the hallmark of Patty Perreira? Certain that this combination had the potential to carry an entire brand, Barton went looking for partners. Sharing the optimism, Tim Cadiente came on board as the president and visionary behind the brand. He also coi73


BRAND PROFILE

ned the name allied metal works as well as the concept for the website. With the four partners aligned, work on actual products could commence, which initially required breaking lots of new ground while the brand continues to raise the bar. “This creative fusion that Bill Barton created with Gunnar Gunnarsson and Patty Perreira is inspirational in knowing

cally pre-destined for the optical trade. His father – also

that this cutting-edge evolution of

named Gunnar, as signaled by the typically Icelandic last

eyewear design will soon become the

name “Gunnarsson” (son of Gunnar) – operated an optical

norm. I am witness to design history,”

store and eyewear workshop in Reykjavik. Fascinated by

said Tim Cadiente.

craftsmanship and design, Gunnar Jr. was always looking for ways to implement elegant solutions into his own frame

The Iceland Connection

designs. After completing his training

Born and raised in Iceland,

as a licensed optician in Stuttgart,

Gunnar Gunnarsson was practi-

Germany, Gunnar returned to Iceland in 2000 to take over his father’s business and add his own chapter to the family’s eyewear legacy. With his award-winning brand Reykjavik Eyes, Gunnarsson soon gai-

ned international notoriety for his equally comfortable and innovative eyewear creations. The market was especially interested in the screw-less hinge designs now featured prominently in allied metal works frames. As far as the origin story goes, Gunnarsson had allegedly grown tired of having to tighten and adjust his customers’ glasses, and pursued a design entirely without adjustable parts. When he met Bill Barton and team, he knew he had found the right partners to take his proprietary technology to the next level. “The designs reflect amazing shapes and colors combined with innovation. The collection combines the worlds of fashion and technology. For us this a true step into the future,” said Gunnar Gunnarsson. Design and progress Holding the reigns over all allied metal works designs, Patty Perreira headed into the project setting high stan-

“This creative fusion that Bill Barton created with Gunnar Gunnarsson and Patty Perreira is inspirational in knowing that this cutting-edge evolution of eyewear design will soon be come the norm.” T IM CADIENT E

A L LIED ME TA L WORK S » B14 0 « & » B13 0 « 74


BRAND PROFILE

dards for making the vision of “technical luxury” a concrete reality. “I love the simplicity and ease of Gunnar’s hinge design. I also believe in the power of timeless fashion and am not a super ‘techy’ person,” said Patty Perreira. “Don’t get me wrong, I love my gadgets. However, when it comes to eyewear, I find some of the more technical brands to be rather cold. I am more of a hopeless romantic. I wear my heart on my sleeve which I think gives my designs more soulfulness.”

for function and vice versa.” And how does this unique

As a seasoned pro, how would

vision carry over into actual products? The collection

Patty sum up the design approach

encompasses prescription models and sunglasses, all hand-

behind the new endeavor? “With

crafted in Japan from stainless steel with detailed accents

allied metal works, it was my

from zyl and the brand’s signature screw-less hinges. With

focus to create frames that were both

its inaugural collection, the brand had already set the tone

useful and beautiful. It was impor-

for a clear, distinct design language; prominently marked

tant for me not to compromise design

by the fusion of classical frame shapes with technical details such as delicate

upgrade, to be launched with the upcoming collection: The

metallic nose bridges and exposed

hinge on the second generation of AMW frames will be

steel on the incredibly slim temples.

a slimmed-down version of the original that replaces the

The brand’s tech-driven ethos has also led to the introduction of a key

spring with a pin, similar to a wristwatch armband. In the design process, allied metal works relied on advanced 3Ddesign software in order to preview new innovations from all angles and cut down on producing real-life prototypes. To hear an ebullient Gunnar Gunnarsson tell it: “We believe our customers will love the comfort, innovation and the design of our new thinner hinge collection.” To see what’s next on the agenda for the brand, here’s Bill Barton in our exclusive SPECTR interview.

“The designs reflect amazing shapes and colors combined with innovation.” GU NNAR GU NNARS ON

A L LIED ME TA L WORK S »B 040« & »B 060« 75


BRAND PROFILE

“Our goal is to create something that is fresh, simple and innovative – something that will get our retailers and consumers excited!” B I L L BART ON

A L LIED ME TA L WORK S » B18 0 « & » B170 «

Bill, was there a distinct event or catalyst behind the founding of allied metal works? Even before I met Gunnar about five years ago, I knew that he had developed some amazing technical eyewear. Many of his ideas had been copied by several competitors. He had all these great concepts and I was hooked! I loved the idea of making hinges and eyewear that had never been done before. Who do you have in mind as your audience for this new approach? We are approaching a consumer that wants something durable, comfortable and completely new. And this

you seeing between both labels?

is a product for the retailers who are

All of the hinges are designed and patent by Gunnar Gunnarson. They are

leaders, not followers.

extremely light weight and durable. It took us four years to develop the first two

Speaking of leading, from where do you draw inspiration for your futuristic designs? We always design with the idea of

hinges. Patty designs the frames for the AMW collection and even though they look quite different [to barton perreira], you can see Patty’s influence in the AMW collection. What are the key technical performance characteristics in your collection?

moving things forward. Making a

We have just shown our second hinge design. It’s incredibly thin and light-

product that only our design team is

weight. It is a great compliment to our first hinge, and in 2017, this gives the

capable of producing. How do you achieve a clear segmentation between allied metal works and barton perreira? And what kind of synergies are

collection more depth and versatility. That sounds exciting. What is the long-term strategy for your new brand? Our goal for allied metal works is to continue to develop new concepts, hinges, technical product, and so on. This is just the start! I’m excited to see the collection in several years. The relevant question is always: What can we do to push design and technology for eyewear forward? Will you also be offering technical accessories aside from eyewear? At this point our focus is on eyewear only. Thanks for the interview, Bill. 76


Model: YY7010 002

www.brandoeyewear.com sales@brandoeyewear.com


THE FASHION VIEW

FUNK »T h o r « ja cke t s GU C C I, p a nt s A M I PA R I S , sne a ke r s AD ID AS

DON’T FOLLOW FASHION Gala’s fashion director Marcus Luft

photos S T EFAN DO NGUS Eyeglasses have evolved from mere visual aids into coveted fashion products and expressions of personal style. As a result, fashion-savvy consumers today have more choices than ever to enhance their wardrobe with stylish eyewear. In our segment The Fashion View, we’re inviting fashion professionals – naturally some of the best-dressed people out there – for their personal take on the intersection of eyewear and fashion. Here’s Marcus Luft, Gala magazine’s Fashion Director and Assistant Editor-in-Chief on his signature blend of “loud” outfits with muted eyewear styles. 78


THE FASHION VIEW

Marcus, you’ve said before that you are blind as a bat. Is your eyesight

And which labels do you

okay these days?

like to wear, personally?

Well, you could say I’ve had a rather steep career in terms of my visi-

Guess who? Prada

on loss. I started out as a kid with -1 [dioptre], and today I’m at -6.5.

and Gucci, of course!

Plus, I have age-related farsightedness. It’s going downhill fast...

And ever since Hedi

At least you get to look at lots of pretty products as part of your job. How

left Saint Laurent,

did you originally get into the fashion business?

that brand has gone

Actually, it was pretty straightforward. After I dropped out of

cold for me. And I

studying philosophy and finished the Henri Nannen School of

like wearing basics

Journalism, I became the Travel Editor at Amica magazine. Their

by Cos or Uniqlo. I

then-Fashion Editor Christiane Arp, who today is the head of

always tend to buy a

German Vogue, gave me an important piece of advise: There aren’t

few statement

too many journalists out there writing about fashion. And most

pieces from desig-

fashion people tend to be stylists [not writers]. So I started moon-

ners and mix them

lighting under a pseudonym for magazines such as Stern and NZZ

with other stuff.

newspaper. Afterwards I became a freelancer for Welt newspaper’s

What is your personal

Sunday edition and ultimately became the Fashion Editor at Max.

definition of good style?

YVES SAINT LAURENT »2313 «

Now I’ve been the Fashion Director at Gala for seven years and

Oh, that’s a tough question. I think you can speak of good style

have been the Assistant Editor-in-Chief for the past two years.

whenever it looks self-evident on the wearer. It could be a streetwear

As the fashion director, you’re exposed to fashion every single day. Does

look with sneakers just as much as a cocktail dress with high heels.

it ever get annoying?

I’m deeply convinced that you can always tell whether someone wears something because he or she likes it, or just because it happens

Not for a second. That’s what we thought. What is the most exciting part of the fashion

to be fashionable right now. As Carine Roitfeld once said: “Don’t

business for you?

follow fashion, follow your style.” I’m constantly reminded that

Definitely all the fashion shows. To this day, I find it incredibly

statement. In any case, I find a tendency towards vulgarity rather

impressive how fashion designers compress half a year’s work into

repulsive. And also: clothing is not meant to look funny. You’re only

twelve minutes on the runway. Whenever a show is really good,

supposed to be funny in conversation. Does that also apply to eyewear?

you know you are experiencing a magical moment. It’s all about the entire production. Large fashion houses such as Chanel or Louis Vuitton are spending millions of Euros on their shows. But they get

Most certainly! What constitutes great eyewear style for you?

it right all the way to the smallest detail. After a show you can really

It really depends on who’s wearing the glasses and at what time.

form an opinion on whether it’s great and well thought-out – or not.

Sunglasses can actually get away with a bit of modern and crazy.

And do you tend to be on-point with these spontaneous assessments?

Prescription eyewear should be classic in terms of shape, but can definitely turn it up in terms of materials. Or vice versa. Both at the

I would say yes, that’s usually the case. Do you get to visit fashion designers and get a deeper impression of their

same time are hard to pull off. And as a general rule for men: Stay

private lives? Have you seen any surprises throughout the years?

away from colorful frames.

You bet. I just spent some time at the New York residence of Philipp

Your glasses are an essential accessory for you. How many pairs do you

Plein for a Gala story. On one hand it was incredibly impressive

own?

and decked out. On the other hand, the place had a sense of warmth

I actually only have two pairs of glasses: A pair of varifocals for

and there were bowls of gummy bears everywhere. In a way, it’s proof

everyday use by Funk and my work glasses by Saint Laurent. And

that everyone is still somewhat down-to-earth in their own way.

of course a few sunglasses, which I have to pair with contact lenses.

Based on your extensive background, which designers inspire you?

Whether or not I’m in the mood is really a day-to-day thing.

I’m especially inspired by Miuccia Prada and Alessandro Michele,

Would you say that the perception of eyewear has changed over the past

the Creative Director at Gucci. Prada has constantly been pushing

few years? And if so, in what way?

fashion forward for the last decades. And what Michele has achie-

Oh, very much so! Only a few years ago I was always looked upon as

ved at Gucci is simply unbelievable. Within a matter of two years,

the biggest nerd with glasses. It always had that air of being stuck-up

his really crazy and colorful collections have transformed the entire

and unsexy. But those days are entirely over. Nowadays people wear

Gucci image, while also generating great sales and influencing the

glasses as part of their look. Which I think is amazing. Especially

entire zeitgeist. Really, really impressive stuff. And I’m also a huge

when you consider how much optical stores have changed. My

fan of Hedi Slimane. Anytime someone succeeds in selling an image,

personal optician, Glassaal in Hamburg always brings in totally new,

I always find that super inspirational. Unfortunately, Hedi has left

cool frames and brands – they’re like a concept store for eyewear.

Saint Laurent, but I hope he’ll surface somewhere sometime soon.

Only the best always. And there’s lots of great stuff out there. 79


THEME SHOOT

50 SHADES OF NUDE Nobody needs grey anymore photo RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z The “nude” look has been all the hype in cosmetics for some time

amount of variations on the entire “nude” theme. When it comes to

now. Basically, it’s a make-up technique that achieves a “natural”,

eyewear, leading brands are dressing wearers in nude looks, including

non-artificial look. With this basic approach also comes a movement

andy wolf, einstoffen, and others. Executed in metal or acetate,

towards understated colors, and an emphasis on subtle, natural

with double or single bridges – the nude look is bound to turn heads

tones such as pastels, sand, and crème hues. Recently the trend has

in 2017, true to the motto: Less is sometimes more.

also found its way into fashion and lifestyle, but with an incredible

KOMONO »T he C h arle s«

MUNIC »Mod 891-1«

80


THEME SHOOT

ANDY WOLF »Ve re n a R«

MARTIN X MARTIN »R ich ard«

EINSTOFFEN »B arbarell a«

81


COLLECTION SHOOT

photos DIANA DIEDE RICH s t yli n g & p roduc tion ANDRE A KADLE R h ai r & m ake - up KARIN GADE a t CL OS E U P AGENCY mod els L INDS EY C. a t MODE LWE RK & V ITAN B. a t CORE MANAGE ME NT

MODO » 657 – Pa p e r-T hin T it anium Sun«

v e s t ST U T T E RHE IM, s h i r t G S US, b a c k p a c k S AN D QV IST

»VS 1 Ve tra«

j a c k e t SU M M U M, b lo u s e S T I N E G OYA, e a r r i n g s C AI, p a n t s M A R I N A H Ö R M A N N S ED E R , s to ckin g s WOLF ORD , shoe s EV I TA 82


COLLECTION SHOOT

HEAT

modo 2017

collection Every season, the runways at the world’s hottest international fashion shows tend to be dominated by major overarching themes: In their upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 collections, designers at leading couture labels are inspired by themes such as jungle, beach, and summer garden. Taking cues from these imaginative stories, stylist Andrea Kadler and photographer Diana Diederich have staged a Collection Shoot from a brand that carries style and international flair deep inside its brand DNA. With locations in Milan, New York, and Stockholm, modo literally lives right on the pulse of the current zeitgeist. But the label with its Italian roots is much more than just a designer brand, but also a technology leader, summed up in the claim “Manufacturing Excellence.” The label backs up its R&D commitment with hand-picked technology partnerships, including Formula One racing mainstays Sauber F1. These future-oriented efforts are matched by a social mission, including modo’s “Buy a frame – help a child see” initiative

in emerging markets. In terms of styles, modo’s 2017 offering is a multi-faceted combination of themes, all marked by the same commitment to delicate details and technically driven lightweight constructions. All without sacrificing any fashion appeal, as the individual collections powerfully demonstrate: Paper-Thin Titanium, Paper-Thin Ultra, Paper-

MODO

Thin Acetate, and the collab collection VS1.

» 682 – Pa p e r-T hin Ultra Sun«

s w e a t s h i r t CL OS ED, b lo u s e H ABSBURG, b e l t MARINA HOERMANS EDER, s k i r t DAY, b a g B A L LY, n e c k l a c e S ABRINA DE HOFF,

Some of the new models include “loud” floral patterns, as worn by the protagonists in our Collection Shoot. Others are rather subtle and delicate, much like the setting chosen by Diana

r i n g V IBE HARS L OF, stockings WOLFORD, s hoe s C H I E M I H A R A

and Andrea. As in modo’s 2017 line, it’s all about the right balance and composition.

»VS 1 St e n dh al«

b o m b e r j a c k e t T IGER OF S W EDE N, s h i r t BEN S HERMAN, p a n t s K A P O R A L , s h o e s CHEAP MONDAY 83


COLLECTION SHOOT

MODO » 680 – Pape r-Thin Ultra Sun« j a c k e t ASOS, s h i r t K A P O R A L, n e c k l a c e C AI

» 666 – Pa p e r-T hin Sun« b lo u s e PA U L & J O E

» 4509 – Pa p e r-T hin A ce t a t e« j a c k e t E D IT H E L L A, d re ss I K K S ,

b ra c e l e t N IC OLA HINR I C H S E N , r in g C A I 84


COLLECTION SHOOT

MODO » 4 4 0 4 – Pa p e r-T h i n U l t ra «

j a c k e t GS U S, b lo u s e PAU L & J OE, c u lo t t e j e a n s CLOSE D, j e w e l s CAI, clutch M A R I N A H O E R M A N S E D E R

85


COLLECTION SHOOT

86


COLLECTION SHOOT

MODO » 4509 – Pa p e r-T hin A ce t a t e«

b lo u s e T I G E R O F S W E D E N , t o p MARINA HOERMANSE DE R, e a r r i n g s BIJOUX

» 656 – Pa p e r-T hin Sun«

s h i r t & lo n g s l e e v e s IKKS, b a g SANDQVIST, ra i n c o a t S T U T TE RHE IM, je ans CLOSE D

MODO » 663 – Pa p e r-T hin Sun«

c o a t I K K S , s i l k f lo w e r D AY, d re s s T R A F F I C PEOPLE , r i n g S AB R I N A D EH O F F, so c ks C AL Z E D ON IA , shoe s B UF FA L O

» 683 – Pa p e r-T hin Ultra«

c o a t G S U S , g r e e n p o l o s h i r t C L O S ED , sh ir t K AP ORAL , b ra cele t C A I , t rou s e r s K A P O R A L , shoes SIOUX 87


COME OF AGE

BY MICHAEL MANN

s t yli n g BODO ERNL E a t NINA KL EIN h ai r & m ake - up MICHI S CHIET ZEL u s i n g MAKE- U P DE SIGNORY & DAVINE S mod els RICHARD DREW S a t IZAIO, VAL ENT IN a t IZAIO & ASTON a t CORE p os tp roduc tion S T EP HANIE W ENCEK loca tion BERL IN

FLEYE »Emmet«

jacke t J OOP ! , s hi r t ADIDAS , p ants ANTONY MORATO

»Kee«

jacke t ANT ONY MORAT O, s hi r t S T RE LLSON, shor ts HUGO


GERMANO GAMBINI »GG -94«

jacket STRELLSON

» G G - 91«

j a c k e t S E L E C T E D, s h i r t P E P E J E A N S L O N D O N , pants NIKE, shoes HUGO


MARKUS T » M 33 4 8 «

j a c k e t J O O P!, j u m p e r P E P E J E A N S L O N D O N , s h i r t T I G E R O F S W E D E N , s h o r t s J O O P!, s o c k s S TA N C E


IMAGO » R o ko t «

j a c k e t T I G E R O F S W E D E N , p o l o F R E D P E R RY


A L LIED ME TA L WORK S »Champag ne«

s h i r t H U G O, s h o r t s L E V I ‘ S


S A LT. »Br idges«

jacket PEPE JEANS LONDON, j u m p e r HUGO, s h o r t s S T R E L L S O N


GÖTTI »Damien«

j u m p e r T I G E R O F S W E D E N , j a c k e t H U G O, shor ts TOPMAN, sneakers NIKE

»We r r y «

j a c k e t A N T O N Y M O R AT O, s h i r t L E V I ‘ S , pants TIGER OF SWEDEN, sandal s STRELLSON


COBLENS »Te m p o l i m i t «

j a c k e t A N T O N Y M O R AT O, s h i r t A N T O N Y M O R AT O, s h o r t s A D I DA S


DIE MESSE FÜR SCHÖNE BRILLEN 6. & 7. MAI 2017

HAUPTSPONSOR:


www.diebrillenmesse.de DOCK.ONE KÖLN


COLLECTION SHOOT

GERMANO GAMBINI I LEGGERI COLLECTION

Contemporary tradition

t e x t D IRK V OGEL , photos RAP HAEL S CHMIT Z 102


COLLECTION SHOOT

More than 100 years of Italian eyewear tradition return in a contemporary offering: With the lightweight i leggeri collection, GERMANO GAMBINI blends proven craftsmanship with state-of-the-art manufacturing technologies and of-the-moment designs. All in a distinctly Italian format. Effortless, chic, playful – always cool and fashionable. Our spectr Collection Shoot presents highlights from the i leggeri line, supplemented by insights from Andreas Malathounis of the exclusive distribution company iBrands about the philosophy of the brand and the road ahead. The Gambini family’s eyewear legacy dates back to the year 1912 in Bologna, Northern Italy: Gilberto Gambini opened a photo and optical store that would not only endure over the years – despite

GERMANO GAMBINI

economic crises and two world wars – but also remain under family

»Mod . GG92«

ownership. In the early 1960s, a charismatic personality took over the

“Our classic. Rectangular with soft edges.

reigns of the optical kingdom that consisted of four individual stores

The typically lightweight i leggeri look.”

across Bologna at the time: Heir to the throne Germano Gambini not only represented his country as a pro basketball player and national team member for many years – his calling card was the number 13 on his team jersey – but also a visionary thinker with bold ideas for the optical trade. Even back then, Germano considered glasses to be more than mere visual aids, but blank canvases to be filled with fashion, flair, and personal style. At an early stage, Gambini began importing hand-picked runs of designer sunglasses by Pierre Cardin, and even ended up contributing his own designs (!) to the international trendsetter’s collections. While working on collaborations with eyewear luminaries such as Ferrè, Trussardi and Coveri, he cultivated his own signature design style together with a deep understanding of the processes involved in eyewear manufacturing. As the 1970s rolled around, Gambini was ready to present his bold ideas under a new umbrella, doing things his own way: The germano gambini brand was born – and the founder wasted no time before the first unorthodox designs became the talk of high society around the world. Customer favorites included the Divina Collection marked by a highly feminine form language accentuated by precious Swarovski diamonds.

»Mod .GG93«

But Gambini’s darling over the years, without a doubt, remained

“For true ‘men’s men.’ A modern look, provocative

the ultra-light i leggeri collection, showcased here in a contemporary

and unconventional.”

interpretation. Today’s line-up includes prescription frames and sunglasses in men’s, women’s, and unisex designs, as well as children’s models. All frames are crafted from ultra-light acetate cellulose, with the lightest models weighing in at a lofty eight grams. Achieving this incredible feat, the label relies on a material blend known as M49, supplied by traditional manufacturer Mazuchelli, who also offers an entirely biodegradable option. As a world premiere, the current collection goes beyond acetate by adding a few models crafted from ultrathin stainless steel: The Light Metals – i leggeri line consists of 15 prescription frames with a number of different design styles and features, including Windsor rings. Rounding out the offering, six sunglasses feature high-grade, anti-reflective polymer lenses. Light as a feather, the stainless steel frames combine a high level of comfort with a contemporary chic aesthetic. 103


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GERMANO GAMBINI »Mod . GG76« “Our Panto shape. A true modern classic, we appreciate its versatility.”

Speaking of “contemporary” – how can a traditional eyewear brand with over a century in the business successfully make the leap into the 21st Century? Our SPECTR interview presents insights from Andreas Malathounis at iBrands Europe, the exclusive distributor for the modern-day iteration of germano gambini. Congratulations on the successful launch of the new collection. Let’s start with the basics: What is the brand philosophy behind germano gambini?

It’s all about having the courage to be an individual and cultivate a personal style. Dare to choose a surprising color, an unconventional shape. Experience and explore your own style – or just change radically. The i leggeri collection embodies all these aspects: It is a technically perfect collection down to the very last detail. And at the same time, it’s a unique blend of a refined and modern look. What are the defining characteristics of the i leggeri collection – both from an aesthetic and technical angle?

The frames in the i leggeri collection by germano gambini are extremely lightweight, super thin, and highly wearable – and fit right into the spirit of our times. The new line The Light Metals – i leggeri by germano gambini raises the bar with extremely thin and light stainless steel frames.

»Mod . GG83«

Speaking of stainless steel, what kinds of materials are implemented in

“Our aviator style, replete with a cool look.

the i leggeri collection? Traditionally, the line is more known for plastic

A true fashion statement in the look of

frames, right?

classic pilot’s glasses.”

As the main common denominator, the entire collection sources components and materials that are manufactured 100% in Italy. The production of all acetate models in the i leggeri collection relies exclusively on cellulose acetate produced at the traditional Mazuchelli factory. Our metal frames for the Light Metals collection are completely made from high-grade steel. This makes our entire collection “100% Made in Italy” and our products carry a certified seal of quality. 104


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Aside from certification, what sets you apart from your competitors? One of our many USPs lies in the fact that the family tradition has been around since 1912. And Germano Gambini himself was a driving force, an innovator and entrepreneur with deep insights into design, development, and manufacturing. This tradition is carefully maintained today by our production and license partner FaoFlex, a company based in the town of Segusino, Italy. Germano Gambini sounds like a luminary figure. He was a basketball pro, eyewear designer, and also quite ahead of his time in terms of fashion, correct? Yes, indeed. As one of the first people in our business, Germano recognized the importance of fashion in eyewear design. Staying true to this legacy, the brand continues to offer a high-quality eyewear collection with perfect price point positioning.

GERMANO GAMBINI »Mod . GG94«

Moving such a legacy forward can make it hard to bridge the gap into present day aesthetics. Who handles design at your company and how do

“Trendy 1980s style with a delicate double bridge.”

you maintain the integrity of germano gambini’s design DNA? We have assembled an in-house design team at FaoFlex, composed of several designers and creatives. As a manufacturer, FaoFlex can build on know-how in eyewear manufacturing and design dating back all the way to 1974. Fabio Stramare, who heads design at FaoFlex, draws inspiration from a wide range of influences from his environment, especially contemporary culture and current events. Ultimately, each new collection and each new frame is a collaborative effort of our entire design team. Why should opticians add germano gambini to their offering? The optical market and opticians in particular have been demanding contemporary eyewear frames with a great price-performance ratio for quite some time now. The germano gambini line checks a lot of boxes at the same time: Variety of designs and models, and a combination of cellulose acetate and stainless steel allow germano gambini to offer added value to independent opticians.

www.germanogambini.com

»Mod . GG91« “Our rounded design for both girls and boys. The look: always individual.”

»Mod . GG95« “Designed around thin edges, contrasted by bold corners as accents.” 105


F E AT U R E C R E AT U R E

CAZAL 001 A legend lives on photos RAPHAE L S C H M I T Z cazal eyewear is a lot like rare wine: The right model from the right

Some of Cari Zalloni’s original sketches from the year 1989 formed

year will potentially fetch a five-digit price among collectors across

the basis for the bold frame of the »Cazal 001«. Evolving these classic

the world. But despite the enthusiasm for vintage cazal styles, the

inspirations, the complex manufacturing process firmly grounds the

evolution of the brand continues today. As a major entry for 2016,

glasses in the here and now: Generously curved acetate components

the storied eyewear label is releasing a frame that epitomizes cazal

are conjoined precisely with generous – almost over the top – inlays

style in every detail: Refined, powerful, and design-driven, the »Cazal

from 24 karat gold. The perfect pair of glasses for a boss, rap star, or

001« pays homage to the brand’s founder and namesake Cari Zalloni

devoted follower of the cazal tradition. As a pure premium product,

(1937 – 2012). With his bold aesthetic and passion for eyewear de-

the »Cazal 001« ships with a leather case in an elaborate gift box

sign, Zalloni elevated his brand into a global phenomenon. Through-

featuring a portrait of the company founder. True to the motto “A

out his influential design career, Zalloni continued to challenge and

Legend becoming alive,” the »Cazal 001« is now available in a limited

rethink the concept of spectacle design from the ground up, leaving a

edition of 999 pairs in Black-Gold, as well as 499 pairs in the Havanna-

wealth of unpublished design sketches for novel eyewear concepts to

Gold colorway.

posterity. 106


C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

108


C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

THE TIDES OF AKOYA

A special campaign by leisure societ y t e x t A S T R I D S P I ER I N G

Most of the time, a campaign is simply a campaign. Sometimes though it is a piece of art that creates an almost magical mood. It tells a little story and lets viewers forget their dull realities for a second. Shane Baum and his team recently created one of those campaigns – one that stands out. leisure society’s Tides of Akoya campaign is an homage to the ancient Japanese free-diving women of the sea – called the ‘Ama’. We met with Shane to ask how he came up with the idea and how he brought the concept into modern times. 109


C A M PA I G N I N S I G H T

Shane, please tell me: when was the first time you’ve heard of these

And how did you adapt the ancient stories to create a modern campaign?

Japanese women of the sea?

We endeavored to portray two girls that read a book on Japanese

As a kid back in Belmond, Iowa, in sixth grade, I saw a reel to

Ama lore and decide to head down to the local reefs to test them-

reel film on Japanese culture that showed scantily clad women,

selves in the beautiful waters of Southern California off the coast

basically topless, diving for ocean treasures off the coast of Japan

of Laguna Beach. Both the modern home and the beach were made

which, you know, at the time was really neat.

available for free to leisure society and our crew. We feel so

What happened next?

fortunate to have friends that are so supportive of our young brand.

Fast forward to a few decades later, my cohort in design, Darren

I hope you enjoy watching it as much as we did making it. Many

Dela Cruz, became interested in Ama divers, these same Japanese

thanks to the incredibly talented team that worked so feverishly to

women of the sea. They were brave souls that oftentimes managed families, delivered the kids off to school, dove into chilly waters for

get it all done. Thank you for your time Shane!

pearls, abalone or scallops and brought the kids home for dinner. It has been said that oftentimes, they would work to pay off their

In case you haven’t had enough of leisure society’s modern inter-

husbands gambling debts by selling these ‘treasures of the sea’.

pretation of Ama pearl diver, go to our website for more information

Whatever the scenario, it’s bold and honest and without pretense –

about the collection and to take a look at the gorgeous campaign video.

which is always what our team places great value on. 110


COLLECTION SHOOT

LINDBERG »1251«

j a c k e t & p a n t s R I C H E RT B EI L, t o p C OS

» 9723«

j a c k e t T M IC H A E L , v e s t C A R US O , p a n t s T E D B A K ER , sh ir t S T R E L L S O N

112


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ALTER EGO

lindberg – New 2017 frames For this issue’s cover production, we kind of went overboard – with mirrors and reflections and all – especially considering that we only needed four images after all. But since we had already set up the entire photo shoot, why not make use of it for some more pics? In search of a proper line of eyewear to display in this moody setting, the latest creative offering from designer label lindberg proved the perfect match. Every season,

the Danish eyewear mainstays turn heads with new, forward-looking ideas at all the eyewear tradeshows. Plus, we had just received a top secret preview of their 2017 offering – and the frames were real beauties. With their understated, sleek form language and lindberg’s signature reduced-to-the-max designs, they fit our photo shoot art style like hand in glove. Which one is your alter ego?

photos S T EFAN DONGU S conce pt CARO ROS S p roduc tion CARO ROS S & AS T RID S PIE RING s t yli n g ARKADIU S GIES EK a t 2 1 AGENCY h ai r & m ake - up ANNE- L ENA COX a t 21AGE NCY w ith MAC COS MET ICS & DAV INES re touch GL AMT OU CH mod els MARV IN a t NOT OYS & GABRIE L a t PMA 113


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LINDBERG » 8305«

suit & shir t TIGER OF SWEDEN, p u l lo v e r S A M S Ø E & S A M S Ø E

LINDBERG » 6543«

j a c k e t CINQU E, s h i r t T IGHA, p a n t s CLOSE D, s hoe s DIADORA HERITAGE , socks FALKE

»1818«

j a c k e t CL O SE D, s h i r t HACKE TT, p ants T MICHA E L, shoe s RE D WING 114


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115


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LINDBERG » 6547«

s h i r t J OSE P H, t o p & p a n t s C O S 116


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LINDBERG

LINDBERG

»1251«

»1251«

jacket & shir t STRELLSON

j a c k e t S T REL LSON, s h i r t JOSE PH 117


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LINDBERG » 8405«

p u l lo v e r P O R S C H E DE S IG N

118


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LINDBERG »1250«

c o a t AOD , s h ir t P O R S C H E D E S I G N , p a nt s C IN QU E , shoe s D R . M A RT E N S , soc k s FA L K E p a n t s P O R S C H E DE S IG N 119


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LINDBERG »1252« & » 8 4 05 «

s u i t C AR U S O, p u l lo v e r P O R S C H E D E S I G N, d re s s h a n d k e rc h i e f K R A G Ü

120


ESSENTIALS

L.G.R »Alto«

MR. ALTO Allow us to introduce: The modern-day gentleman. Elegant, style-savvy, and prone to a little nostalgia.

mobile phon e HU AW E I P 9 , toot h pic k s D A N E S O N, ra z or MÜ HL E, s h a v i n g b r u s h MÜ HL E, c uffli nks GENT L EMAN’S AGRE E ME NT, so c k s G EN T L EM A N ’ S A G R E EM EN T, bow tie GENT L EMAN’ S AGREEMENT, c i gare tt e ca s e VINTAGE 122


HY PN O TIZE D

B Y S T E FA N K A P F E R cre a ti v e d i re c tion CLAUDIA FE LSE R s t yli n g J IL L KRAMER a t 21AGE NCY.DE h ai r & m ake - up CL AUDIA CRE UE LS p roduc tion/ s t u d io/ pos t H60OFFICE .COM mod els HEL EN a t P L ACE MODE LS.COM & RICHARD a t IZAIO.DE loca tion DU S S EL DOR F


REIZ »T. 0 6 «

-

b lo u s e A S O S , s h i r t N I K E , s k i r t A S O S , legg ings CALZEDONIA, shoes ASOS

»T. 02 «

s h i r t J O O P!, p u l lo v e r N I K E


FACE À FACE » H o o p s 2« top NIKE


FACE À FACE » H o ol a 2«

vest BOGNER, top NIKE, pants COS, s o c k s A M E R I C A N A P PA R E L , s h o e s B U F FA L O


KBL »Newman«

-

b e i g e p u l lo v e r T IG E R O F S W E DE N , b l u e p u l lo v e r T O M TA I L O R , p u r p l e p u l lo v e r N I K E , p a n t s & s h o e s A S O S


KBL »T h e G ra n t «

jacket & top NIKE, sk ir t & necklace ASOS, shoes QC


TAVAT » Pa n to s R | M «

top NIKE, necklace H&M


TAVAT » B li n k e r«

j a c k e t J E N N I F E R PA RY L A K , s h i r t H U G O B O S S

» Pa n to s R | C «

b lo u s e A S O S , j a c k e t N I K E


ANDY WOLF » R oli S . «

s l i p o v e r T IG E R O F S W E DE N , t i e H & M , s h i r t B O S S , j a c k e t J E N N I F E R PA RY L A K , p a n t s B O G N E R


ANDY WOLF »A d e l e «

j a c k e t s B O G N E R & T O M TA I L O R , s h i r t T IG E R O F S W E DE N , p a n t s C O S , s o c k s B O S S

»Daphne«

vest BOGNER, collar COS, pants NIKE, bag & shoes ASOS


INVU »T 2710 B «

s h i r t L E V I S , b o w t i e S U I T S U P P LY, j a c k e t T IG E R O F S W E DE N , s h o e s V E J A


ESSENTIALS

KARMOIE »Nucle u s«

MRS. NUCLEUS She had her first crush on Christopher Reeve, the Superman of ‘78. Maybe that explains why she is trying hard to save the world.

g lov e s O T T O K ES S L ER , n e c k l a ce L ORD & L ADY, h an dke rchie f L ORD & L ADY, pi ns REDF RIES, h a n d b a lm S T O P T H E WAT E R W H I L E US I NG ME! , s m ar tphone ca s e L U CKY NEL LY, s hell FOUND AT PL AYA BL ANCA 136


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Customized vintage motorcycles have been trending hard for the past few years, especially among men approaching that mid-life bump in the road. Among those in the know, historic motorbikes with a stripped-down aesthetic – free of technical gimmicks but rich in timeless design – have emerged as a popular sub-genre. Customizing these gems into one-of-a-kind treasures is a high art, and not every bike aficionado can muster the necessary mechanical chops to handle every step of the process DIY-style. Here’s where specialized workshops enter the picture, run by seasoned mechanics with a focus on vintage motorbikes. Asking around within the scene, one name continues to emerge as one of the world’s finest destinations: BLITZ MOTORCYCLES, the workshop founded by Fred Jourden and Hugo Jézégabel in Paris, France. photos ST E FAN D ON G US , a ssis t a nt A S T R I D S P I E R I NG, re touch ST E P HAN IE W EN C E K , int e r vie w S T E FAN D O N G US & D I R K V O G EL 138

PIT STOP AT BLITZ Metal frames and vintage bikes Ever since starting their custom garage with a lot of passion for the craft in 2010, the two founders have not only conceived, customized and hand-finished countless motorcycles into unique, one-of-a-kind machines in their own signature style. The two mechanics have also evolved blitz into a brand of its own right, offering lifestyle staples from beanies to t-shirts all the way to bike-specific boots and leather jackets. Since we love all things design-oriented and vintage – and also super fast – we asked Fred and Hugo for a visit at their workshop to set up a SPECTR photo shoot, which they kindly obliged. Needless to say, we brought a case full of stylish shades to Paris with us, rugged enough for modern-day road warriors. Get ready to get your hands dirty, welcome to blitz .


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S A LT. X A E T H E R » E x p lo re r « & » S c o u t «

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Thanks for having us over at blitz motorcycles, Fred and Hugo. Talking to people in the scene, you guys are quite the stars among vintage motorbike transformers. Hugo: We are certainly not stars. We’re just two friends

society, with all these rules like “don’t smoke”, “don’t drink”, “don’t do this”, “do that”, and so on. It’s even more true with vintage motorcycles because if your bike has a breakdown, and if you have the knowledge

who embraced their passion and decided to try to

and the tools, you can fix it by yourself, even by the

make a living out of it.

side of the road. And believe me, I went through these

Your garage looks like the typical men’s dream, the ultimate man cave. Do men need their caves? And why is there such a hype around vintage motorbikes right now? Fred: In today’s society, let’s be honest, most of us are

types of situations many times with Fred. Knowing that you can fix a problem all by yourself must be very rewarding. Hugo: Once you do so, you feel like a hero, almost a

just considered as “pawns”. Even if you have a great job

God! You breathed life back into something that was

and big responsibilities, you can still be replaced at any

said to be “dead” by everyone else. And back in the

time. In a “man’s cave”, you are the only one in charge.

days, being a man meant this: “Fix the problems and

You do whatever you feel is good for yourself.

keep walking.” That might explain why some men

I think that may be an explanation.

tend to be so attracted to vin-tage motorcycles.

Hugo: I think that motorcycles are one of the last bastions of freedom in our modern, still very restrained

Speaking of “keep walking,” moving around on your bike is obviously just as important as tinkering around in the

M AY B A C H »T h e P re m i e r I «

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OTTOMILA »8M5 Sideshield«

workshop. What do you like most about the act of riding

spare time after work and on weekends working in this

motorbikes?

man cave. Back then, we never charged our friends

Fred: Being able to connect with nature without any

and their friends for our services. After five years of

hesitation. When we ride our vintage motorcycles, we

improving our knowledge and sharpening our eye, we

have no wind shield, no “hand protection,” not even

realized that we were happier spending our time wor-

a full-face helmet. So when it rains, trust us, you feel

king together and getting our nails dirty than sitting

the fucking rain right on your face. When the sun is

behind a desk, although I was getting paid well for this.

shining, you feel its warmth all over your body. When

I felt a bit like a “fraud” in the office because my own

you ride through a forest, you actually smell the forest.

added value to the company was not apparent to me.

I know that at least one of you had a connection to nature

As a contrast, when we would finish a motorcycle, I

before you started transforming motorbikes. What were you

could say exactly what I had done and why it would

doing?

work – or not.

Hugo: That’s right, I was a landscape designer.

Hugo: Like Fred said, I was always very impatient to

Fred: And I was the Head of European Marketing for an

meet up with him to work on our current projects

online-based company.

in the workshop. Even if in the end, we would never

So with these backgrounds, how come you quit and started

charge the people we were working for any money. But

to work as mechanics?

then we came to a point where our “creations” started

Fred: I would first of all like to say that I would have

becoming recognizable since we developed our own

never taken this leap if Hugo had not decided to come

signature style that you would not see anywhere else.

along with me. For five years, Hugo and I spent our

This leads us to sit around a table and ask ourselves if

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CAZAL »986«

ØRGREEN »A f t e rg lo w « 142


INTERVIEW SHOOT

we shouldn’t take the chance to try to make a living

my hears, and always reminded me of those warriors

out of this particularity.

ready to bump into each other. When the time came to

Six years later it seems like you made the right choice. In

look for a name, blitz popped naturally into my mind.

your day-to-day experience, what are the most inspiring

I brought it up to Hugo – and he immediately loved it.

moments at your job?

Et voilà!

Fred: When we place the gas tank on the almost fini-

What’s the creative process like at blitz before the actual

shed project. Then and only then do we get to take a

tools come out?

step back and see how beautiful and unique we can

Hugo: We never use sketches or Photoshop. Because

consider our last project. And of course, when the

with a pencil or a keyboard, you can design anything.

client comes over and sees the bike for the first time.

But when the time comes to make this drawing come

We never keep our customers posted on our “artistic

true in real life – it’s a whole different story.

direction” during our ongoing work. They only disco-

Fred: For us, the projects always start with a specific

ver their bike once it is fully finished. A that moment,

part of the bike, whether it’s a vintage tank, a head-

they are like a kid on Christmas Day.

light, a handlebar or a pair of tires. Then we always try

Hugo: Some of our customers are very powerful men

to integrate a part of the customer’s life into the pro-

in their jobs. Still, at that very moment, they are eight

ject. That’s why we always ask many personal details

years old again.

from our clients, so that we get to know them better.

And while we’re talking about inspiration, what about the

But at the same time, the clients don’t really have the right to

name “blitz?” It’s rather unusual for French speakers…

choose directly what they want?

Fred: I used to be, and still am, a big fan of American

Hugo: Exactly. As we like to say: “Once you step a foot

football. The first time I heard this word, it was during

in our workshop, you are ready to leave democracy be-

a game, because a “blitz” is the name given to a rush

hind.” We actually never look for customers. The cus-

attack in football. The sound of this word was nice to

tomers come to us. So they have to play by our rules.

Age 31 years | Residence Paris | Education Landscape Design degree | Hobbies Travelling the world on a vintage motorcycle, growing plants (especially Bonsai trees), living with nature as much as possible, sailing, fishing. | Life motto Be free. Whatever the cost. | Personal style I like to consider myself as a “modern cowboy” where the motorcycle has replaced the horse and the helmet has replaced the hat. | End of workday ritual In summer time, I like to go swimming right after the day in the workshop. People tend to give me the stink eye because I am sometimes “covered” with grease, but I do not care. Those same people are the ones who take a pee in the water with a happy face while they are doing it. | Next

big project Growing olive trees at my father’s house in the South of France. I can’t wait to use my own personal olive oil to cook. | Reasons for working with Fred He is the one who showed me how to work on an engine and that a motorcycle is never “dead”. Plus, he is the one driving our collaborations with other brands to have our own products made according to our ideas and designs.

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LINDBERG S n e a k Pe e k s f ro m

144

Sir iu s Titanium Collec t ion


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Age 42 years | Residence Paris | Education International Marketing PhD | Hobbies Mechanics of course, travelling on vintage motorcycles, sports (roller hockey, squash, basket ball). I also tend to collect vintage Action Joe puppets I used to play with when I was a kid. | Life motto Do what you love, love what you do. | Personal

style I am highly inspired by ”militaria” clothes. And I tend to mix these vintage military clothes with some tailored pieces. | End of workday ritual Once I am done working on motorcycles at the workshop, my “second life” starts back home when I take care of communications such as emails, Facebook, Instagram, partnerships with fashion and accessories brands. | Next big project Hugo and I are starting a new motorcycle where sound will play a huge role to play. We’re currently working with a “sound geek” based in Los Angeles to design sounds, including the turn signals but also the engine once it’s spinning. This bike is the incarnation of what the motorcycle of the future should have looked like if we made it in the ‘80s. | Reasons for working

with Hugo Because he is my exact opposite. He is blond, I am dark haired. He is calm when I am nervous, and vice versa. And most importantly, because I highly respect his vision of what we should do on a daily basis.

The fact that your clients trust you so much might be one of the reasons why blitz has become way more than the name of a garage. It’s a full-fledged brand. You sell branded products like jackets, boots, shirts etc. How did you manage to pull this off? Fred: We do not consider blitz to be a brand. blitz is

for us by our friends at Bleu de Chauffe. It’s an expensive piece because it’s made in very small numbers, all in naturally tanned leather, entirely by hand. We knew right away that we would not sell many of them. Still we wanted to have such a tool roll for ourselves, mainly for our road trips. So Alex and Thierry, the co-

the expression of our vision of life: Being committed

founders of Bleu de Chauffe, designed and produced it

and true to yourself. We tend to think that if people

for us. It will never be their best-seller, still we all are

trust us, it is because they realize we are genuine and

surprised to see this product being bought online by

that we are really and purely passionate. It’s the same

people from all over the world.

for the brands we collaborate with: we never contact them, we simply don’t have time for this. The brands contact us and then we meet up with the people be-

You do seem to sell a lot of blitz clothes and accessories, though. In the bigger picture, how important is the right clothing style for you?

hind the brands. If the products as well as the history

Hugo: Very important. When we built our first motor-

of the brand and the philosophy of the people working

cycles, it was because the offer from existing brands

for it match with our vision, then we start talking

did not match our expectations. The same went for

about collaborative products, without consideration

clothing. So we had to look for vintage clothes such

for the “bankable” side of it.

as military and workwear in flea markets and secondhand stores to match with our motorcycles. We were

Can you give an example? Hugo: The best example would be the tool roll made 145

then very happy when some brands, like Edwin Europe,


INTERVIEW SHOOT

came to us and offered to help express our needs, even

I do not look like a fly. And the glasses themselves to

the craziest ones. And we are very happy to see those

perfectly protect me from sun beams.

crazy ideas come to life.

Hugo: I would love to find an unbreakable pair of

With that said, what would be the typical blitz “look” or

sunglasses because I tend to always sit down on them

outfit?

eventually (laughs).

Fred: A military-inspired jumper, a blue indigo pair of

Well, you surely handled yourself well dealing with sunglas-

jeans, a pair of workwear boots, some “cool” leather

ses in front of the camera, almost like professionals. It’s not

gloves, like the ones made by Agnelle on our behalf,

the first time you did this, right?

and a military-inspired leather jacket like the Coastal Command Jacket made on our behalf by Simmons Bilt

Fred: Nope, it’s not – but we still hate to do it. Modeling is really not our world!

in Scotland.

Well, if you ever change your mind, that door is probably

Hugo: For me it’s a cowboy-checked shirt, a blue indigo

open... As a last question, please give our readers some

pair of jeans and jacket. And a knife! Just because you

inspiration to take home from this interview. What are you

never know...

guys dreaming of?

Let’s talk about eyewear for a bit. When you guys are featured

Fred: I do not have dreams. I have the chance to have

in films like Riding September, one can see that you’re riding

ideas that I try to make real. And right now, I’d love to

with jet helmets only, so eyewear is an important issue.

go cruise in Japan with Hugo for three months. Just to

What styles and materials do you prefer?

discover this country.

Fred: I always wear glasses. Sunglasses in the day,

Hugo: I would love to travel around the world with all

“Yellow lens” glasses at night. I love the “pilote” metal

the transportation means I have at my disposal: vin-

frame for my night glasses.

tage motorcycle, vintage boat, vintage car, and maybe

Hugo: I wear sunglasses all the time. To protect my

train – like the Trans Siberian Railroad. A bit like

eyes from the sun, the rain and the dust. I love “pilote

Phileas Fogg in Jules Verne’s book Around the World

frames” made of metal, mostly.

in Eighty Days.

What do you expect from good sunglasses?

We can’t wait to hear about your next adventure. Thanks for

Fred: I expect my glasses to have a good design so that

having us over and all the inspiring moments. www.blitz-motorcycles.com

A L LIED ME TA L WORK S » 8 010 «

146


BRAND PROFILE

EINSTOFFEN From apparel to eyewear photo RAP HAE L S C HM I T Z , t e x t A S T R I D S P I E R I N G

Although it might appear like a brand-new start-up, Swiss label EINSTOFFEN has been around since the year 2008. In the beginning, the product line mostly revolved around textiles, signaled by the moniker “stoff” (German for “fabrics”). Over the years, the assortment has constantly evolved and now includes shirts, watches, as well as eyewear – all with the common goal of enhancing the wearer’s individual style. For us at spectr, eyewear is naturally the most interesting among these fields, so we sat down with one of the four founders, Philippe Rieder, for a Brand Profile interview. Who founded the brand and what was your initial focus?

at large international design shows. That’s been our main approach

The original founders behind einstoffen were Ramon Büsser,

until today and has really kept our collection grounded so far.

Raphael Büsser, and Christian Gisler. We started out with T-shirts,

Making the leap from T-shirts to dress shirts sounds reasonable – but

followed by our “Dress Shirts for Heroes” campaign. As for myself,

what prompted you to make eyewear?

I helped them out from the beginning and wrote all the texts for

We were at some tradeshow when we noticed a large amount of

our small brand. Once we started producing eyewear in 2012,

wooden eyewear as a decorative gimmick. Ultimately we decided

I came onboard as a full-time employee. As of now, we are also

that it should also be possible to produce fully functional glasses

producing original Swiss watches.

from wood. So we did! We created a concept and went looking for

How did you decide to focus on producing T-shirts initially?

manufacturers. Our first line of models consisted of massive bam-

The three founders had the idea while traveling around South East

boo sunglasses – looking at our current collection, we have come

Asia and meeting a T-shirt designer in Bangkok, whose designs

quite a long way.

totally blew them away. They decided to produce his designs and

Initially, you´ve worked with a lot of trial and error. Why not just bring an

import them to Switzerland.

eyewear expert on board?

In the beginning, did you already have a clear idea of where the brand

We did! Pretty soon after launching, we secured distribution

would be headed?

in Germany and Switzerland. Practically all of our sales reps are

We always wanted to create fashion – fashion that’s outside the

trained opticians and work rather closely with us. They get to

norm and with an experimental edge. Initially, we also tried our

extensively test and inspect every single new collection and we are

hand at custom-made belts and shoes from Argentina. When it

happy to implement their feedback, as well as that of our custo-

comes to our T-shirts, we quickly found that we would not make it

mers. I think that if it wasn’t for our open-minded approach to all

into the stores with our tees – no matter how awesome the designs

their opinions, the entire venture into the eyewear segment would

were. That’s why in 2010 we decided to start our line of “Dress

have turned out rather short-lived. At this point we have also hired

shirts for heroes” – our first product designed entirely by ourselves.

several opticians in order to bring the feedback loop full-circle

All shirts have been inspired by characters from cult movies. The

and integrate it into the design process. I think that both of these

response has been amazing and especially skate shops are reporting

elements are key to our success: the open-mindedness of outsiders

great feedback.

just as much as the fundamental expertise of opticians and eyewear

So in hindsight, designing dress shirts was the right decision?

insiders.

Absolutely! Even considering that none of us have had any formal

Are you in full control of designing all collections?

design training. Although, some of us did enlist at the textile aca-

Yes we are! Our designs are all created in-house, and our decision-

demy at a later point in time. But most of the time we simply took

making process is rather democratic. Everyone has the right to

inspiration from our environment and produced things we liked to

speak their mind.

have ourselves, much rather than looking at what was happening 148

What is your process?


BRAND PROFILE

149


BRAND PROFILE

In the first step, we design the overall guidelines for our collection.

beauty. And we also thought that the minimalist, rather reduced design also suits our overall brand imagery.

Then one of us tackles the first design sketches with a small team until we ultimately decide on the final design of each product with

What is the brand philosophy behind einstoffen?

a democratic vote. Our sales reps, employees, and customers are

In the bigger picture, our goal is to create things that people find

also free to share their opinion. This input can lead to final tweaks

pleasant. Small treasured pieces for people with an open mind, a

and adjustments to ensure that our frames are a great fit.

passion for style, and a sense of humor. We want to represent the

And where do you manufacture your collections?

open-minded side of Switzerland. The intersection of an idyllic,

Our frames are manufactured by an outstanding company in

raw Alpine environment and the pulse of an urban metropolis.

Hongkong. The hinges are made in Germany, the acetate is provi-

That’s the design aesthetic we are celebrating! But we opened our

ded by Mazzucchelli. All our watches are made in Switzerland, and

second office in Berlin for a specific reason: The city’s do-it-your-

our shirts are made in Istanbul. We know our business partners

self metropolitan spirit allows for a large amount of creative liber-

personally – many of them for a number of years – and check in

ties that we are lacking in Switzerland. Switzerland oftentimes has

several times per year to ensure that work conditions and quality

a tendency towards self-limitation and isolation. Nevertheless, we

levels are up to par.

still love our hometown of St. Gallen. It’s a bit sleepier around here

How many of you guys actually wear glasses and where did you sell your

and we’re always just a stone’s throw away from natural beauty

first piece of eyewear?

such as mountains, forests, and lakes. We actually need both – the

Three out of four. And we are all passionate about wearing sunglas-

uncompromising drive of the metropolis and the down-to-earth

ses. Well, at the time, we handled our entire distribution via our

attitude of the Alpine back country.

online store. The response was overwhelmingly positive and we

What separates einstoffen glasses from competitors? What makes your

quickly noticed that our bamboo sunglasses struck a chord. Back

label and your products stand out?

then, there were hardly any wooden frames in that price class, so

einstoffen is not necessarily an optical brand in the classic sense.

trend-savvy opticians were quick to respond. But right upon ente-

That also becomes apparent by our material combinations and all

ring into the optical market, we soon noticed that we had to refine

the delicate details such as our weird frame names and the extra-

and improve our offering in order to remain competitive. The

vagant shapes and materials. We never considered ourselves to

past four years have been a steady learning process for us, and we

be THE wooden eyewear label and – as opposed to other brands

thank our customers for their patience along the way! But looking

– have been banking on flexibility and delicate shapes quite early

at today’s collection compared to our very first models, I think it’s

on, particularly styles that work well for women. What’s more, our

safe to say that we have come a long way in our evolution. It’s been

selection is rather broad, which allows us to cover a wide spectrum

worth the wait.

of facial shapes and price segments.

How did you decide on the three main materials acetate, wood, and

A little association game at the end.

stone?

The typical EINSTOFFEN customer...

First of all, we really appreciate natural and regenerative raw

... will notice intuitively, that the label is a great fit. They are open

materials. Second, we love to experiment with different materials.

to experiment and don’t always take themselves too seriously.

We chose wood and stone since these are both equally aesthetically

Those characteristics signal a good connection with our brand. Fairness is...

pleasing and comfortable to wear. We also opted for acetate with the demands of our opticians in mind – acetate tips are much easier to mold and adjust – and it has become a staple in all our collections. Looking ahead, will you remain within your three materials?

... extremely important to us – no matter who we are working with. An einstoffen product needs to be fair for everyone involved. The customer, the supplier, as well as the retailer should always be

Experimentation and combinations of materials are an integral part

satisfied with their end of the business relationship. In the future...

of our company – just like the Swiss mountains and the slightly ironic names of our eyewear models. So it’s rather unlikely that we

... we are looking to expand our line of prescription models by a few

will limit ourselves to wood, stone, and acetate. Our latest collec-

more frame designs. Our goal is to have a collection of about 100

tion already marks an increased amount of titanium and metal.

pieces. Additionally, we want to put an increasing focus on titanium

Quick question aside Philippe: When did watches enter into the picture?

and wood hybrids. We are also really fond of micro engravings and

We do not consider eyewear and clothing as separate categories,

miniature artworks. At the next opti, we will also be showcasing

but parts of a whole. Ultimately, both are fashion accessories

our first models with clippers. Pretty retro, they also came out

that manifest the individual style of their wearer. Both segments

pretty cool. Wow! This is already quite a lot!

continue to cross-pollinate and inspire each other. With that

It is. And in early summer we will be launching our Black Collec-

said, expanding into watches was just a logical step. All of us are

tion. Also expect some surprises in the watches segment.

great watches enthusiasts and with Time Bandits, our first watch collection, we also fulfilled our personal dream of making products manufactured in Switzerland. A genuine Swiss watch is a thing of 150

We can’t wait to see more, Philippe!


Dynamics Colorwave Mod. 5500 BG 9140

BECAUSE YOU ARE UNIQUE www.silhouette.com


PH OTO BO X

BY SABINE LIEWALD

s t yl in g C A R O LIN HERL ING h a ir & m a ke -up MARKU S KOP P a t P HOENIX for D I O R M A K E-UP & DAV INES mod el s K A N A NI & ANT ONIA a t MU NICH MODEL S s e t D AV I D G R U BER loca t ion M UN I CH

BARTON PERREIRA » P ro u v é «

-

j a c k e t O F F -W H I T E


BARTON PERREIRA »W i n e t t e «

-

shir t OH YEAH, jacket ZARA


OAKLEY » O O 9327«

-

b lo u s e T O P S H O P, s k i r t PAT R I C I A P E P E , necklace LEAF


OAKLEY »Tr ill b e «

-

d re s s M I U M I U


ETNIA BARCELONA »Bor n Sun«

-

j a c k e t & l e g g i n g s K E N Z O, necklace LEAF


ETNIA BARCELONA » B re ra S u n «

-

d re s s T O P S H O P, r i n g s L E A F


CAZAL » 4239 «

-

d re s s M I N T & BE R RY, jacket ZARA


CAZAL »9065«

-

d re s s G I A M B A


A L LIED ME TA L WORK S »A m e t h y s t Pe a rl «

-

s k i r t M I N T A N D BE R RY b lo u s e M A N G O sock s &OTHERSTORIES shoes TOPSHOP


OLIVER GOLDSMITH » M a n h a t t a n G ol d s i d e (19 6 0) «

-

c o a t G A BR I E L E S T R E H L E b lo u s e D O L C E & G A BB A N A


R AY- B A N »3 42 9 - M «

-

d re s s G I A M B A


ESSENTIALS

BLACKFIN »Mont ego B a y bf774«

MISS MONTEGO Being quite the energy bundle and driven by wanderlust, she is always in the mood for an adventure.

sm a r t phon e ca s e L UC K Y & NEL LY, e ar i n g s VINTAGE , r i n g 1 9 7 4 , face cre am OL IV EDA, h a n d c re a m O L I V ED A , not ebook F IEL D NOT ES , s p e c t acle cord COCO BONIT O 164


Y O H J I YA M A M O T O »Y Y 7011«

d re s s 1. 2 . 3 . PA R I S , s k i r t KENDAL L + KYL IE, b e l t MAX& CO.

»Y Y 7010 «

j a c k e t & p a n t s GES T U Z, n e c k l a c e S IF J AKOBS, b e l t Z A R A


AR MED RES P ONS E

B Y S A C H A TA S S I L O H Ö C H S T E T T E R

s t yl in g T RANG CAO a t FAME AGENCY h a ir & m ake - up MEL ANIE HOP P E wi th MAC COS MET ICS mod el s ES T HER L . a t V IV IENNEMODEL S .COM & EL OIS A F ONT ES a t MUNICH MODE LS s p e c ial th anks to L OU IS HOT EL MU NICH loca t ion MU NICH


MODO » MO D 6 82«

p u l lo v e r L I L LY I N G E N H O V E N , c u l o t t e s S E T, c h o k e r S WA R O V S K I


MODO » M O D DU O M O «

p a n t s u i t M A R C C A I N, j a c k e t 1 .2 .3 . PARIS , s h o e s S OL - S ANA, e arc uff ACCES S ORIZE

» MO D 4 4 0 4 «

re d d re s s I N W E A R, b l a c k d re s s CHEAP MONDAY, s h o e s M I S S G U IDE D, b a n g l e S I F J A KO B S


BLACKFIN »Saint Mar t in«

d re s s M A N G O, j a c k e t L I U J O, b e l t NAF NAF, heels BU F FAL O, r i n g S IF J AKOBS

» S t . Jo h n «

t o p H UG O B O S S, p a n t s T I G E R OF S W EDEN, b a n g l e S WA RO V S K I , s h o e s & O T H E R S T O R I E S


BLACKFIN » G re e n l a n d «

d re s s L O N G C H A M P, j a c k e t K A R L L A G E R F E L D


ØRGREEN »Da zzle«

d re s s F I L I P PA K ., w ra p s k i r t N O B I TA L AI, g lo v e s ROECKL , hoop r i n g s CADENZZA, s hoe s MICHAEL KORS

L.G.R »Tu a re g «

t e d d y L O S T I N K, s k i r t M I C H A E L KORS, t i g h t s FA L K E , b o o t s & O T H E R S T O R I E S , b a n g l e E S C A DA


L.G.R »Tu r k a n a «

g lo v e s R O E C K L , d r e s s S A N D R O


MARTIN X MARTIN »Roman«

j u m p s u i t MISSGUIDED, c o a t C H A F O R , e a r r i n g s CADENZZA, bl ack r i n g S IF J AKOBS , r i n g S WARO VSKI


MARTIN X MARTIN »R ené«

b l a z e r M A S S I M O D U T T I , s k i r t PAT R I Z I A P E P E , s h o e s J E F F R E Y C A M P B E L L


FHONE »South«

d re s s ZARA

»Lee«

b l a z e r T OP S HOP


STYLIST‘S OWN

Jochen

POHLMANN photos S T E FAN D ON G US Stylists like to be in charge, especially when it comes to coordinating outfits and looks for fashion and eyewear photo shoots. Stylists also seamlessly apply this control impulse to their private lives, where their own appearance becomes the focus of much consideration. And even if the stylist decides to go for a minimalistic look, you can bet that much thought has gone into selecting – and balancing – every single piece of clothing and accessory. Our frequent collaborator Jochen Pohlmann is one of those masters in the art of making a favorable appearance. Whenever the Berlin native enters the room – on SPECTR photo shoots or otherwise – his presence can instantly be felt. And not just because of his personal styling. gl a ss e s L U N E T T E S K O L L EK T I O N shir t whi t e F R U IT OF T H E L O O M shir t bl u e J IL S AN D ER ja cke t C HE AP M ON D AY b elt AC N E p a nts AM I sho e s N IK E so cks NE W BAL AN C E ne ckl a ce T HE GOOD S T O R E

178


THEME SHOOT

COLOR MANIA Au revoir tristesse! Let’s escape the boring realities of everyday life by putting on some bright pink glasses. Or how about some baby blue ones? Any way you want it, this is a great season for vibrant colors. There’s never been a wider variety of choices, supplemented by style upgrades such as double bridges in models by fleye, blackfin, and invu. Or how about the double colorways presented by silhouette? Amazing!

FLEYE »S a d i k u« Perfect triple play of gold, red, and acetate with a wooden look.

BLACKFIN »S aint Mar tin« The matted finish adds an extra sense of texture to these intriguing frames.

INVU »T1700 B« This frame is part of the invu Trend Collection and also available in Rose Gold.

180


THEME SHOOT

L.G.R »Tu areg« Replete with the signature style

of l.g.r frames – the simple upper top bar.

ETNIA BARCELONA »le m arais sun« Playful details at the temple tips raise the style bar.

Y O H J I YA M A M O T O »YY7010« Edgy and extravagant – minimalist design meets rich color. Also note the matching colorways on all joints.

SILHOUETTE »Ar thur Arbe ss e r for Silhoue tt e« Exclusive design from an upcoming young fashion designer from Milan.

181


EDITOR’S CHOICE

SOL SOL ITO Swiss neo-luxury

t e x t AST RID S P IE RING

SOL SOL ITO »10A«

p ants T IGER OF S W EDEN s hi r t COU NT YROAD s u s p e n d e r s S T YL IS T ’ S OW N

SOL SOL ITO »23F«

Sometimes beauty can result from an intricate sense of complexity. At other times, it’s just the opposite, and a simple, reductionist aesthetic

dre ss KARL L AGERF EL D

can lend an air of distinction. The latter is definitely the case with sol sol ito, the reduce-to-the-max eyewear label founded by designers

Monika Fink and Sandra Kaufmann. Their creative line of sunglasses and prescription models is characterized by three major design features: interchangeable double bridges, replacement nosepads, as well as screw-less hinges. The duo’s signature design style has already won numerous honors, including last year’s German Design Award. Next to a sense of functionality and high quality standards, the designs separate sol sol ito from the rest of the pack.With nods to the Bauhaus movement

and the finest examples of Swiss eyewear craftsmanship, every single frame combines individual style and outstanding form language into a complete package. Plus, every series is limited to 50 pairs each, which definitely makes these pieces coveted eye catchers. For this issue’s Editor’s Choice, we took models »10A« and »23F« for a spin around Cape Town. 182

photo S T EFAN DONGU S a ss i s t ant AS T RID S P IERING s t yli n g MART INA NEL L ES h ai r & m ake - up J AS MIN ZEL ENKO c/o SHINE w ith CHANEL & BU MBL E & BU MBL E re touch P X2 mod els MARIJ ANA a t MOS T WA NTE D & BENJ AMIN a t KU LT MODEL S


M E T R O P O L I TA N » 8 035 « -

v e s t & sk ir t S O N J UN G WAN, s hi r t F U MO BES P OKE, jacke t QU AT T ROMANI

» 8247« -

v e s t & sk ir t S ON J U NG WAN, s hi r t PAOL A HERNANDEZ


SP RIN GBR EA K

BY ANGELIKA BÃœTTNER a ssis t a nt D R A K E PAT T ON s t yl in g H O P E M I S T EREK h a ir L UI S G UI L L E RMO wi th ORIBE m a ke -up PA ULV E NOIT.COM mod el s YA D A a t EL IT EMODEL S NYC & J ENNA a t T R U MP MODEL S NYC p os t p rod uc t ion B ENEDIKT E MES L IN loca t ion N E W Y O R K


KOMONO »T h e L e n n o n « -

sk ir t M A R I M EKKO, wool crop jacke t RENAT BRODICH, coa t L IE S ANG BONG


KOMONO »T h e V lo v i s «

t w eed dre ss & bl a z e r CHOCHENG


EYEVAN 7285 »747 9 0 010 «

ca p e dre ss & p ants PAOL A HERNANDEZ


EYEVAN 7285 »751 8 070 «

top & s ki r t PAOL A HERNANDEZ


MARC O’POLO »5 0310 0 «

s w e a t e r T U CKER, je w els J ES S ICA RICCI


MARC O’POLO »5 05 0 4 8 «

d re ss PAOL A HERNANDEZ, glov e s L A CRAS IA


SILHOUETTE »Urban Lite«

m il it a r y d re ss MAL AN BRET ON, glov e s L A CRAS IA


SILHOUETTE »A r t h u r A r b e s s e r fo r S il h o u e t t e «

m ax i dre ss S F IZIO, c uff S T ERL ING KING


M AY B A C H »T h e M e lo d y I «

coa t S ON J U NG WAN


ESSENTIALS

R O L F S P E C TA C L E S »G e nie 203«

MR. GENIUS He still remembers quite well how his father used to tell him:

„Son – one hand for yourself, one for the ship.“ It was his favorite quote from the ‘Seeteufel’.

p ow e rb a n k A M P ERO, g lov e s OT T O KES S L ER, tie L ORD & L ADY, h a n d ke r ch ie f L O R D & L ADY, book F EL IX V ON L U CKNER, v i nt a ge wa tch ZENIT H 196


H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »2236 «

d re ss U N IT E D C O L O UR S O F B E N E T T O N


FIN IS HI NG S BY ULRICH HARTMANN s t yli n g CHRIS T INA BOHLE IN h ai r & m ake - up RAMONA WANDE RE R p roduc tion IS L AS P RODUCCIONE S.COM mod el NAS T Y B. a t MODELWE RK re touch S OP HIE S CHWARZ E NBE RGE R loca tion S ANTA CR U Z, T ENE RIFE

H O F F M A N N N AT U R A L E Y E W E A R »T 820 0 «


KARMOIE »Tw i g «

coa t MOL IIN COP ENHAGEN


KARMOIE » B ra v e «


S A LT. »Te d «


S A LT. » M u rd o c k «


J . F. R E Y »14 03 «

dre ss AS OS


J . F. R E Y »2749 «

top U NIT ED COL OU RS OF BENET T ON


MUNIC » 8 92-2«


MUNIC » 8 91-1«

top U NIT ED COL OU RS OF BENE TTON


ØRGREEN »Dye«

t o p MOL IIN COP ENHAGEN


S P E C T R C O L L A B O R AT I O N

THE SPECTR BICYCLE

A special cooperation with up cycles

win th

SPECT st ar ti

e

R BIKE

ng Ma r only o ch 2017 nline

photos ST E FAN D ON G US , t e x t A S T R I D S P I E R I N G Every now and then, it’s helpful to set our sights beyond the world of eyewear design and do some “out of the box” thinking. After all, you never know what might happen... This was the case when, at the end of last year, we crossed paths with the three guys behind upcoming bicycle brand up cycles. After getting on with them like a house on fire, it didn’t take long for a new idea to take shape: enter the SPECTR Bicycle! First of all, here’s what you need to know about the bike smiths. Julien Bezoge, Jérémy Laurent, and Stephan Helms have two major things in common: a passion for bicycles and deep commitment to a sustainable lifestyle. In April 2015, the three joined forces and founded up cycles wunschrad. Instead of manufacturing brand-new cycles from

scratch, the three decided to leverage spare parts from quality vintage bikes – for instance French bicycle frames from the 1970s – into oneof-a-kind refurbished masterpieces. Looking at the final results, we instantly saw that the three knew their craft. After all, tinkering with old bikes has been their long-time hobby. Julien was formerly the head of a workshop in London, before working on the development of bamboo-based bikes in France. At the same time, Stephan built a business sourcing and reselling vintage bikes in Cologne, Germany. And before Jérémy joined the two in Cologne, he was in charge of refurbishing used spare parts at workshops in Paris and Glasgow. In other words, up cycles is a match made in heaven, and whenever the three take on a new project, they also make sure that it fits the new owner’s personal style and budget. After all, the customized bikes are more than mere means of transportation. They are what the Germans call a “Wunschrad” – a “dream bicycle” – and a perfect blend of style, design, and sustainable mobility. Taking care of the environment is part of the company’s founding mission, and also extends into the way the three owners buy food and clothing. “We want to live conscious, mindful, and sustainable lives. Ultimately, this not only improves our own quality of life, but also benefits the environment.” A true one-of-a-kind piece of engineering, the SPECTR Bicycle was custom-made for our magazine from the highest grade historic components. The frame dates back to the 1970s and comes directly from the private collection of French pro bike racer Raymon Poulidor. The saddle and handles are made by Brooks, one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of genuine leather saddles and accessories. The mud guards are crafted from bamboo and the 7-speed internally geared hub comes replete with reverse gear. We here at SPECTR are proud to work with such resourceful partners, and we’re ready to spread the love: The SPECTR bike will soon be raffled off online, so watch our website and social media channels! 210


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THE BIGGEST INDEPENDENT EYEWEAR SHOW IN SCANDINAVIA MARCH 4-5, 2017

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COLLECTION SHOOT

photos HE L I HIN K E L s t ylin g J ILL K RAM E R a t 2 1 A G EN C Y h a ir & m a ke - up AN N E -L E N A C OX a t 2 1 A G E N C Y w i th MAC COS MET ICS & DAV INES mo d el s M ALAIK A a t C R E A M M O D E L S & S I G N E R A S MU S S EN a t MODELW ERK

FREEZE maybach 2017 collection 212


COLLECTION SHOOT

M AY B A C H

maybach is one of the world’s grandest luxury brands. With a strong

»The Melod y I«

eyewear for quite some time now – always using premium materials,

foundation in the automotive segment, the label has been offering

t u r t l e n e c k T O M M Y H I L F IG E R , d re s s A S O S

always offering top-of-the-line manufacturing quality. The 2017 collection continues the heritage with top-shelf materials such as titanium, buffalo horn, rare woods that are refined with gold, rose gold, platinum, and ruthenium. Select sunglasses feature 24-karat

»The V isionar y I I«

gold reflective coating. Some models carry the Fleur-de-Maybach, a

j a c k e t J E N N I F E R PA RY L A K , t ur tle neck SAMSOE SAMSOE

proprietary ornamental pattern specifically created for maybach. The latest maybach collection also makes a strong fashion statement. Next to frames in a finely-dosed oversized look and harmonic panto shapes, the line makes bold forays into high-fashion territory with sleek double bridges or branded brow line inlays. For this Collection Shoot, photographer Heli Hinkel captures the maybach collection in front of an aesthetically fitting backdrop. The understated, simple color palette and winter mood enhance the bold luxury finish of the featured products, and set the mood of heading to the Cresta Run in St. Moritz. Luxury with a modern finish has hardly ever looked this pretty. 213


COLLECTION SHOOT

M AY B A C H »The Pla ye r I«

j a c k e t P U L L & BE A R , s c a r f S E L F M A DE , s h a w l M A RC O’P O L O

»The C apt ain I«

j a c k e t R I C H E R T BE I L

214


COLLECTION SHOOT

M AY B A C H »The Ar t-Ma s te r I«

p u l lo v e r C O S , h a t & b lo u s e R I C H E R T BE I L

»The Ma s te r I I«

d re s s R I C H E R T BE I L , b lo u s e I N T I M I S S I M I

»The V isionar y I I«

j a c k e t N I K E , g lo v e s B A R T S , b lo u s e L E V I S , s k i r t C O S

215


COLLECTION SHOOT

M AY B A C H »The Melod y I«

s h i r t A S O S , p u l lo v e r T O P S H O P

»The A dmiral I«

jacket &OTHERSTORIES, l a c e t o p RO S A M U N DE

216


E V E N T PA G E

CAZAL »867« photo S T E FAN D ON GU S ALEXAN D E R D OS IE HN , one of t he colle c tor s a t the V i nt a ge E x hi b it ion

THE SPECTR PHOTO STUDIO AT Come and Visit one of the SPECTR Photo Shoots during the opti Show.

Booth C1.144 Directly opposite the Vintage Passion powered by SPECTR

Saturday (January 28): 12.00 – 17:00 Fashion Photo Shoot for SPECTR #20

Sunday (January 29): 13:00 – 16:00 Optical Promo Shoot, Part I

Monday (January 30): 11:00 – 14:00 Optical Promo Shoot, Part II 218


BAY & A TCW H B Y S T E FA N D O N G U S

a ssis t a nt A S T RID S P IERING s t yl in g M A RT I NA NEL L ES h a ir & m a ke -up J AS MIN ZEL ENKO c/ o S HINE wi th C H A N E L & B UMBL E & BU MBL E re touch P X 2 mod el s G ET R I IN K. a t MOS T WANT ED & M A R C EL VA N DER MER W E a t KU LT MODEL S p rod uc t ion F I RS T P RODU CT IONS CT, s p e c i al th anks to J O loca t ion C A P E T OW N


B R O O K LY N S P E C T A C L E S » Mo n t i «

pullov e r F T C CAS HMERE, s ui t BEN SHE RMAN

» B e d fo rd «

blou s e & s hor ts MARCEL OS T ERTAG


MAKELLOS.POTSDAM » M E -9 0 41«

s hi r t T OP S HOP, bl a z e r PAT RIZIA P EP E , belt S T YL IS T OW N, wa tch KAP T EN & S ON, cloth S EIDENS T ICKER


MAKELLOS.POTSDAM » M E -9 0 42«

ca ts uit E LISABE TTA FRANCHI jacke t RICH & ROYAL


ADRIAN MARWITZ » S t ra n g e r N r. 36 «

pu llo v e r S ISLE Y, ja c ke t F R ED P ER RY


ESPRIT » E T 17914 «

dre ss BANANA REP U BL IK


ESPRIT » E T 179 07«

dre ss BANANA REP U BL IK, s hoe s MICHAEL KO RS

» E T 17917«

s ui t & s hi r t PAL ZIL ERI, s hoe s MELV IN & HAMI LTON


DANIEL HECHTER » DH S10 8 -5 «

p a nt s F I L I P PA K , ja c ke t & s hi r t S AMS ØE & S AMS ØE, s hoe s F RED P ERRY


DANIEL HECHTER » DH S116 -3 «

p a nt s K A R L L A G ER F EL D , pu l lov e r S T RENES S E


MARKUS T »T 2272«

s hi r t & p ants PAT RIZ IA PE PE , s hoe s HEINRICH DINKEL ACKER, bel t STY LIST’S OWN


I-SPAX »F a r i n «

pu l lo v e r F I L I P PA K , bl a z e r T I G E R O F S W E D E N


HOOK LDN »Br i d ge m an« & »Wan d e r«

SPECTR MAGAZINE You better watch out

photo S T EFAN DONG US mod els BENJ AMIN a t KULT MODE LS & IRINA a t MOS T WANTE D

Here at SPECTR, it’s our mission to be the one-stop magazine that opticians and fashion-forward eyewear customers read before and after making purchasing decisions. That’s why SPECTR features more frames and designs from independent eyewear labels than any other magazine on the market. Many of our readers like to stay up-to-date via our digital photo shoots featured on our official website as well as our Pinterest profile. But ultimately, it’s our print edition that really makes eyewear sparkle by presenting it in an upscale format on glossy paper. Now, would you like to secure permanent access to every new print issue? A subscription is the most convenient way to access every issue as soon as it comes out, delivered freshly to your doorstep, neatly packaged. Subscribing to SPECTR Magazine is like a real-life RSS-feed of everything new and exciting from the world’s leading brands and designers. And for opticians, SPECTR offers special packages with multiple magazines. Plus, our Premium Partners can customize their issues with their own logo, creating an elevated gift for their customers. Find out about all our customization and partner options at spectr-magazine.com. And please feel free to direct all inquiries to press@spectr-magazine.com. . Please send me an annual subscription (three issues) of SPECTR Magazine, starting with the next issue at the annual subscription rate (incl. shipping) of: Customers residing in Germany: 27,- EUR / Other countries: 45,- EUR Postage

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SPECTR Issue 19  

J.F.Rey – From past to present to future · Blitz Motorcycles – Metal frames and vintage bikes · Fashion direction with Gala's Marcus Luft ·...

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