Eyewear Issue 13

THE I N T E RNAL N AT I O IS S UE T H E

BILL BARTON – KATHARINA PLAT TNER – ØRGREEN – E YE WE AR CONSPIRAC Y

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V I SI O N A RY M AGA Z IN E

BILL BARTON

PHILOSOPHY TALK WITH A VISIONARY

KATHARINA PLATTNER

DESIGNTALK & SHOOT AT ANDY WOLF

ØRGREEN ALL GROWN UP?

ISSUE 13

COLLECTION SHOOTS

LINDBERG, GÖTTI, STRADA DEL SOLE, COBLENS & KBL

E

ENGLISH ISSUE Nr 13 – 1 /2015 12 €

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Get in on the trends and topics that the entire optical industry will be focussed on in 2015. Save the dates now and maximeyes your preparation!

9. – 11.1. 2015 QUINCY JONES ICON COLLECTION

ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH | Germany | info@maybach-luxury.com | www.maybach-luxury.com www.maybach-shop.com | www.facebook.com/maybachluxury | www.twitter.com/maybachicons „Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by MAYBACH Icons of Luxury GmbH under licence.

QUINCY JONES ICON COLLECTION

design by made by

T H E J E W E L TO N E C O L L E C T I O N

WWW.ORGREENOPTICS.COM

Š 2014 Calvin Klein, Inc. Produced and distributed exclusively by Marchon Eyewear, Inc. S t y l e : M a l e C K 7 9 4 3 ; F e m a l e C K 7 9 4 7

SWISS EYEWEAR

no adverts, just buy our glasses

Masthead

Editor in chief Stefan Dongus dongus@eyewear-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 Editor Jana Wenge wenge@eyewear-magazine.com Graphic DESIGN Till Paukstat paukstat@eyewear-magazine.com Tom Hajimiragha Frédéric Wiegand Contributors Dirk Vogel Holger von Krosigk Photographers Pascal Albandopulos Stefan Dongus Joseph Ford Ulrich Hartmann Stefan Kapfer Michael Knopke Sabine Liewald Reno Mezger Valentin Mühl Raphael Schmitz Christian Steinhausen Dirk Schumacher

Online Editor Jana Wenge presse@eyewear-magazine.com Publisher Monday Publishing GmbH Kamekestr. 20– 22 50672 Köln t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 eyewear-magazine.com facebook.com/eyewearmagazine CEOs Stefan Dongus Holger von Krosigk Distribution DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 D-22773 Hamburg www.dpv-network.de Print F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 D-83361 Kienberg www.fw-medien.de

COVER Photo: Christian Steinhausen Styling: Patrick Lief Hair & Make-Up: Kerstin Hoffmann-Riedel Model: Merle @ Izaio Management Glasses: Yohji Yamamoto »Yy 5009« Shoot: P. 112-123 EYEWEAR is published three times per year.

This magazine and all its contents may not be reused, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers.

All rights reserved.

Translation English Version Dirk Vogel Proofreading Franca Rainer

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Masthead

Insight - Employees of the Issue This issue marks our “Lucky Number 13”. And as always, we are starting things off by introducing some of the creatives behind EYEWEAR magazine, including Berlin-based photographer Ulrich Hartmann and our U.S. Editor Dirk Vogel. And since even issue 13 can’t get by on luck alone, our proof reader Franca Rainer kept an eagle eye trimmed on spelling mistakes and typos.

Ulrich Hartmann, photographer Ulrich Hartmann has already contributed numerous photo shoots to our magazine. Before he focused on fashion photography, the self-taught professional earned a living as a graphic designer and art director. Now based in Berlin, Hartmann travels across the globe on assignments for high-profile clients. While he is usually a calm and collected professional, this particular issue of the magazine – maybe number 13 wasn’t so “lucky” after all – drove our photographer to the brink of insanity. Right before uploading his edited hi-res files to our server, his hard drive crashed.

And even the best restore software and advice from IP-savvy friends failed in bringing them back.

On top of that, Ulrich was hit with a heavy flu, towed car, and cancelled flight. But ultimately, he prevailed in contributing his work to this issue, against all odds.

Dirk Vogel, U.S. Editor Our man in Hollywood is in charge of reporting on U.S.-based eyewear brands and translating EYEWEAR magazine into English. Born in Wiesbaden, Germany, Dirk cut his teeth writing for Limited Skateboarding magazine and now contributes to SNEAKERS and Boardsports SOURCE magazine. Freshly moved to L.A. he landed a job as German producer on the E!Entertainment show “Live from the Red Carpet” at award shows including the Franca Rainer, Proofreader Franca Rainer wears no glasses, but that doesn’t keep her from keeping a close eye on our grammatical performance. The multi-talent is our copyeditor and has read every word in every Eyewear issue from the start. If you haven’t, you should catch up quickly! Although she’s officially a film producer, Franca has always had a passion for the written word, which has led to screenplays for short movies and television productions. As to be expected from a polyglot mind, she’s widely traveled and has lived in Italy, Austria, France, and England before settling down in Berlin-Mitte where she’s keeping herself busy as a translator and editor. If you think that’s not busy enough – what about running a family of four on the side?

Oscars and Emmys. Instead of attending red carpet parties, Dirk pushes a baby stroller around Venice, his daughter Leila being the main “VIP” in his life.

Editorial

Keep on Moving: The International Issue

“Keep on Moving” is the motto for this issue, but what does it even mean? Is it necessary for us to keep moving on and change, from time to time, in order not to stand still? Change can be a good catalyst for fresh energy, getting rid of stagnation and putting a new spring in our step. But are those who aren’t constantly changing bound to be left behind? Hey, being satisfied with the status quo is also perfectly fine. No need for constant change for change’s sake to keep up with the rat race.

The magazine industry seems to agree: At the 2014 Lead Awards, three new magazine titles were honored that focus on deceleration and mindfulness in culture.

In times of constant availability and digital connectedness, our hectic society seems to be longing for quiet, traditional spheres of experience.

Perhaps a more literal interpretation of “Keep on Moving” makes sense: Let’s get physical! After all, our ability to move around is the very reason why humans have developed a brain. All living beings that do not move around have no need for a brain – and therefore don’t have one! This becomes apparent when studying the sea squirt, a tunicate species that floats

around the ocean until it has found the right place to settle down. Once it finds the right spot, this interesting species proceeds to eat its own brain. It’s not needed anymore! The sea squirt obtains food by letting water rush through its body, filtering out the nutrients. A real no-brainer, that one.

Does this also imply that constantly moving about will make you smarter? We like that idea, since we covered quite a lot of ground putting our current issue of EYEWEAR magazine together. Our interview photo shoots took us to Copenhagen, Berlin, Paris, and Graz. And we show­cased new eyewear in front of the stunning backdrops of Bangkok, Hong Kong, London, Mexico, and an imaginary journey to Brooklyn, plus a whooping three shoots in Cape Town.

It’s safe to say that our photo­graphers took the scenic route to bring home some “moving” images.

Are we wiser for the experience? Hard to say. But we did have a lot of fun, which is a reward in itself. With that said, it’s time to keep on moving away from this editorial and jump into what this issue has to offer.

Enjoy! SD

N E W S f ee d

CLÉMENT GOUVERNEUR & GOUV/AU

The oldest eyewear company in France, Gouverneur Audigier, still comes up with new surprises. Here are the two latest brands in their line-up: Clément Gouverneur and GOUV/AU. For only four days, the company created the Ephemeral Showroom at historic Galerie Vivienne in Paris to showcase the first high-end collection from Clément Gouverneur. It features 250 pieces, all crafted from top-shelf materials such as gold and leather.

In 2015, Oakley will be celebrating the 40th brand anniversary.

To mark the occasion, a limited edition coffee table book will trace the evolution of the California brand: Visuals include company founder Jim Jannard designing product in his garage, early advertising posters, photos of famous athletes and product design sketches – many of them unpublished until now. The 220-page hardcover book will be shipped in a black box, adorned with a metal Oakley logo.

OAKLEY Limited Edition Book

N E W S f ee d

Lunettes Kollektion: Marrakesh

The ingredients for the latest offering from Lunettes Kollektion? The moroccan metropolis Marrakesh with its intriguing bazars, exotic spice markets, unique colors and smells. The city’s vibrant energy is captured in a lookbook by photographer David Fischer.

KOMONO Lulu

Greatness happens when Belgian designers Anton Janssens and Raf Maes get together.

With the new Crafted Collection, KOMONO is adding fuel to the flames. The “Lulu” model stands out with its understated shape and cool colorway. And here’s something really cool: You have until January 30, 2015, to send us an email with the subject “Komono” at presse@eyewear-magazine. com, and also like Komono’s and Eyewear’s Facebook pages – and you could win a pair of these sleek glasses. Good luck!

COME HANG WITH US AT OPTI/MUNICH 9-11 JANUARY 2015 HALL C4.321

BELLINGER.DK

N E W S f ee d

SUZY GLAM: Bad Hair Day

This upcoming brand has been turning a lot of heads this past year: Their design won them a few accolades, in­ cluding the Newcomer of the Year Award in Zurich, Switzerland. And masterminds Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks keep upping the ante: Their current lookbook has been designed by Amsterdam-based graphic artist Martin Pyper, replete with fresh mountain compositions and nonchalant models in a stunning “bad hair day” look.

KILSGAARD: New Lookbook

In their latest collection, Kilsgaard blends smooth design with vintage sex appeal. The campaign for the new line evokes an uncomplicated, nostalgic lifestyle, captured in a scenic lookbook. Classic!

C a z al 4219

By Reno Me zger

B R O O K LY N MADE L o c at i o n B r o o k ly n , U S A

T i m e Z ON E UTC - 5 hrs

Photography: Reno Mezger - reno-mezger.de Photo Assistants: Kamil Rutkowski, Nilay Pavlovic Styling: Juliane Büther @ Kult Artists Styling Assistant: Anna Lührs Grooming: Boris Rieker using products of Paul Mitchell Models: Thomas R., Nick & Henrik @ PMA Promod Model Agency Production & Art Direction: Uta von Fintel

COO R D INAT E S 4 0 . 6 7 8 2 ° N 7 3 .9 4 4 2 ° W

P o p u l at i o n 2.556.000

Hailing from Hamburg, Germany, I’m naturally inclined to love Brooklyn. There are just too many similarities: Water plays a big role in both towns. Both are dominated by brickstyle buildings, and pulsating with life. But although Brooklyn is bigger than Hamburg, it’s not a city in the true meaning of the word, but a borough of New York City.

Nevertheless, Brooklyn holds its own against mighty Manhattan across the East River, and currently attracts throngs of creatives and visionaries who turn their back on the big city to come here. Our mission for EYEWEAR magazine was to capture the Brooklyn Spirit in a fashionable photo shoot.

We made the journey in late November in our hearts and minds, and even the cold weather and early sunset could not deter our commitment. Brooklyn is rugged, but so are we.

And at the end of the day, we came up with some images that clearly deserve the “Made in Brooklyn” stamp of approval.

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Clothing lef t: Jacket: Fred Perr y | Zipjacket: Frisur | Pants: Filippa K . | Shoes: Dr. Mar tens Clothing middle: Pullover : Core | Pants: Frisur | Shoes: Dr. Mar tens Clothing right: Jacket: Herr von Eden | Pants: Ethel Vaughn | Shir t: American Apparel | Cloth: Filippa K . | Shoes: Velt

M a r k us T — »M2.151« »M1.009« »T 2 .0 4 9 «

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Coat: A .P.C . | Pullover : Strenesse | Pants: Guess by Marciano | Belt: Char vet

LINDBERG — »1237«

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Leather Jacket: R awfitting | Shir t: Patrizia Pepe | Tie: Filippa K .

LINDBERG — »1014«

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Clothing lef t: Coat: A .P.C . | Shir t: Frisur | Pants: Strenesse Clothing right: Suit: Filippa K . | Pullover : Strenesse

I mag o U l t r a l ig h t — » Q uest « » D esti n y «

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Clothing lef t: Leather Jacket: Joseph | Cardigan: Strenesse | Pants: Herr von Eden Clothing right: Leather Jacket: Filippa K . | Pullover : Strenesse | Pants: Strenesse

W h ite o ut & G l a r e — » 7 0 7 4 K r eu z be r g « » 7 0 7 7 T r ibeca «

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Clothing lef t: Filippa K . | Shir t: Guess by Marciano | Pants: Strenesse Clothing middle: Jacket: Wendy & Jim | Shir t: Patrizia Pepe | Pants: Filippa K .

Clothing right: Suit: Daks | Shir t: Strenesse

Fleye — » D e x te r « » Le n n i « »Evin«

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Clothing lef t: Suit: Patrizia Pepe | Shir t: Strenesse | Tie: Strenesse | Belt: Char vet | Stockings: Item 6 | Shoes: Filippa K Clothing right: Pullover : Strenesse | Schal: Filippa K . | Pants: Joseph | Shoes: Dr. Mar tens

ic ! be r l i n — » 6 8 K ö p e n ic k « » M 4 am F r ied r ic h s h ai n «

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P h i l o s o p h y Ta l k

A ph i losoph i cal e x c u r s i on i n se v en acts

Whenever a graduate in History and Political Science becomes the CEO of Oliver Peoples and later launches his own label to supply premium opticians around the globe with eyewear, it’s a safe bet that the man will have a lot to say. And that’s an understatement, as we had a chance to find out in Paris when we met up with Bill Barton for a photo shoot and philosophical exchange.

But as far as owners of luxury eyewear labels go, the man behind Barton Perreira is as grounded and humble as they come.

Nevertheless, he exudes the unmistakable aura of a successful entrepreneur set on following his goals and realizing his vision. And as it turns out, Barton has a firm grasp on one of the major secrets of success: Exceptional work always requires the support of a tightly knit team of talented employees. To make it happen, Barton takes no issue with keeping his own ego in check and giving others the freedom to do their best. Actually, assembling the right team is what he considers his biggest achievement. Let’s hear it from Bill Barton in a philosophical excursion in seven acts.

Photos: Stefan Dongus

P h i l o s o p h y Ta l k

I. THE LEGEND Bill, you are regarded as an “eyewear person” of immense stature, someone who can manage everything, from production to branding. Truth or overestimation?

The truth is that I have a great confidence in my vision for what we can and are going to accomplish. The overestimation is that I actually manage it all myself. My great secret is my ability to have amazing talent – I expect the people I work with to perform at the highest level – and give them the freedom to do their jobs!

But delegating some of the work doesn’t seem to affect your reputation in the slightest.

How come people in our industry regard you as a major player?

Because the companies and people that I have been associated with have been very successful.

Speaking of success, please provide a short summary of your occupational career in the eyewear business.

I started as an optician at Optical Shop of Aspen in the spring of 1984. Next, I started the wholesale division for OSA in 1988 and had the good fortune to work on the development and design of the Matsuda collection. I stayed at OSA as President until 2001. In 2002, I was hired as President and CEO of Oliver Peoples. I remained onboard until the company was sold to Oakley in February of 2006. From that point on, it was all Barton Perreira!

Facts about Bill Barton:

Facts about Barton Perreira:

Age: 54 years

Founded in: 2007

Grown up in: Kansas City, USA

Founders: Bill Barton, Patty Perreira

Professional career / education: BA - History / Political Science

Number of employees: 35

Family situation: Wife and 4 kids

BP Stores in: Aspen, Colorado; Nashville, Tennesse Distribution: 42 countries

P h i l o s o p h y Ta l k

II. THE PERFECT MATCH You founded the company together with Patty Perreira.

What inspired you to set up your own company?

And why did you partner up with Patty?

Patty and I had such a great chemistry at Oliver Peoples and were hugely successful. When Patty left Oliver Peoples a few months after I departed, I knew: If we got together, we would have a lot more to say in the optical fashion world.

I have always been a huge fan of Patty’s ability to design eyewear. I think she is the best! The combination of our talents is a perfect fit and the results kind of speak for themselves.

What’s the work partnership like in everyday practice?

How do you and Patty share tasks and responsi­bilities?

We both work on editing the final collection for each sea­son. Patty designs a massive amount, so picking out the 20 styles for each collection can be quite a challenging process!

III. ENTERING THE MARKET The business side can be challenging as well, with hundreds of established brands staking their claim in the eyewear segment. In the beginning, what were some of the main challenges you had to master establishing your new brand?

We are very confident in our abilities to design and manu­facture product. The biggest thing is to get all the work completed and make sure we are heard above all the noise.

But we lead with our product!

Confidence is everything. But were there mo­ments when you doubted your entrepreneurial skills?

Not by the time we started Barton Perreira.

What motivated the two of you to in­vest so much energy into developing Barton Perreira?

I felt like we were just getting started by the time Oliver Peoples sold. I knew that once Patty would get the recognition for her own brand, the designs would blow people away!

IV. THE LABEL From a brand perspective, what is that “special something” about Barton Perreira? What differentiates your label from the rest?

We do not sacrifice on the quality of our product. We make each style as well as it can be made, no matter what the cost. I believe Barton Perreira offers great value.

How would you summarize the brand philosophy?

Dedicated to pure luxury, Barton Perreira’s approach to fashion redefines style and elegance. Patty Perreira’s language of inspired design focuses on the evolution process and continues to challenge the industry by unveiling the next new thing.

But you also seem to know your audience. What kind of opticians and users do you want to see wearing your glasses?

People who appreciate great quality and design. And affordable luxury.

The spirit really comes to life at your own Barton Perreira stores in Aspen und Nashville. Out of all cities in the U.S., what attracted you to these locations?

These are both amazing cities with great people and customers. True American cultures in their own right.

V. A GLOBAL BRAND At this point, your brand enjoys a global following. From a world­wide perspective, what are your strongest markets?

We do very well in North America and Europe.

And we are currently growing in Asia.

Looking at the European market, your brand is distributed by Baumvision. What is your personal connection to Shane Baum?

Shane and I worked together at Optical Shop of Aspen. We also both live in Orange County, California. So we go back many years. Shane and his team in Europe have done a fantastic job for Barton Perreira!

Shane is also one of the heavyweights in the eyewear business. And some of your most famous brand aficionados are celebri­­ties like Angelina Jolie, Heidi Klum, Jessica Biel, Orlando Bloom, and Giovanni Ribisi. How were you able to win them over?

The head of our marketing team and business partner, Tim Cadiente, is the man behind the placement of our product.

When you mix Tim’s skills with great product, it’s actually not that difficult!

P h i l o s o p h y Ta l k

VI. BEHIND THE SCENES Which aspect of your job do you like the most? And what do you spend the most time doing?

I love many aspects of what I do. I love building and designing the retail stores with Patty and David Spinelli.

It’s also an amazing feeling when we finish a new collection and receive all of the samples, to actually see the results of everything we have been working on for months. And finally, I really love the people I work with!

As for the second part of your question, I’m involved in all aspects of our company so I can’t really say what I spend the most time on. Maybe inventory management… boring (laughs)!

Please describe a typical workday for Bill Barton.

There’s not really such thing as a typical day. I travel a great deal. I also spend a lot of days at our office in Irvine, California, when I’m not working with Patty in her studio in Venice. I’m also at trade shows way more than I should be!

What inspires you? Both generally speaking and in your job?

Chrissy, my wife, is my greatest inspiration. She’s brilliant and has the best style I’ve ever seen. She is patient and kind and can deal with me – I’m her work in progress.

Where do you find recovery and recreation?

I really enjoy running in the hills behind my house. It’s my kind of meditation. Being with my kids and family keeps me centered.

»We do not sacrifice on the quality of our product.

We make each style as well as it can be made, no matter what the cost.«

P h i l o s o p h y Ta l k

VII. THE ROAD AHEAD Where you see Barton Perreira in five years and what is your job in getting there?

Hopefully, we will continue to evolve the brand in the direction it’s going. We are committed to our retail program and we have other projects currently in the works. My job is to make sure we keep pushing it forward and get the most out of our amazing talent.

Speaking of jobs, by what means would you be earning a living if it wasn’t for eyewear?

If you start something just to make money, you’re missing the point. It’s all about the journey. No matter what we are doing, if we exe­c ute on our journey, the results will take care of themselves.

These are wise words, thank you for the interview, Bill.

Bill’ s personal Barton Perreir a milestones He really loves them all. But since we forced his hand to decide on four favorites, here are his picks:

Breed Love – “the best aviator frame, ever”

Dalziel – “looks good on everyone”

Dillinger – “simple perfection”

Wexler – “one of the best men’s sunglasses you will ever see”

markus-t.com

OPTI 2015, MUNICH JANUARY 9 – 11 STAND C4.219

Col l ec tion Shoot

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S tat e - o f - t h e - A r t E yewe ar from Denmark LINDBERG is kicking off the new year by launching a sizeable sunglasses collection. Right on time before going to print with this issue, we received a selection of key models. The verdict: Blending fashion appeal and state-of-the-art constructions, the Danish label once again makes a strong statement, pictured here in our inspired photo shoot.

Clothing lef t: Top: Augustin Teboul | Pants: GLAW Clothing middle: Shir t: Tiger Of Sweden | Coat: Julian Zigerli Clothing right: Coat: ANNE GORKE | Shir t: GLAW | Skir t: Tata Christiane

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Clothing left: Scarf: Tata Christiane | Overall: Realitystudio | Boots: Pierre Hardy Clothing right: Shirt + Pants: Lyle & Scott by Jonathan Saunders | Socks: Bernhard Willhelm | Shoes: Vans

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Clothing lef t: Jacket: Dr ykorn | Top: Bobby Kolade | Pants: Maison Scotch | Socks: Happy Socks | Shoes: Shoemaker`s Clothing right: Jacket: Ethal Vaughn | Shir t + Pants: Caruso | Belt: Stylists own | Shoes: Jil Sander

Clothing : Collar : Marni | Dress: Porsche Design

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Clothing lef t: Shir t: Dr ykorn | Pants: Ethel Vaughn | Cloth: Tiger of Sweden Clothing right: Shir t + Tie: Tiger Of Sweden

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P ho t ogr a ph y: R e no M e zger – r e no -me zger . de P ho t o A s sis ta n t s: A l e x Weber & Nicol e Jü t t n er S t y l i ng: T heo Va sil iou @ Bl os som M a nage me n t S t y l i ng A s sis ta n t : A l e s sa K a pp

H a ir & M a k e-u p : Ja m a l Musa usi ng Ch a n el a n d Se x y H a ir H a ir & M a k e-u p A s sis ta n t : Michel l e Völ k el Model s: C sil l a & Ism a r Da po @ Modelw er k P roduc t ion & A rt Dir ec t ion: Uta von F i n t el @ R AWbl ack

ALL WHITE How not making a color choice became a design statement: Fashion and furniture already went whiteout.

Now the neutral color trend finds its way into the sunglasses segment.

A n d e r n e » O n e N i g h t« Aviator shades with slightly tinted lenses have always been a fashion staple. This model looks great in white with a metal rim.

ic! berlin »S25 Tegel« White has been trending in runway shows across the globe and also looks flattering in this pair of sunnies. The perfect adornment for round and heart-shaped faces.

A n d y W o l f » Go n z a l e z « These frames by Andy Wolf pack some secret technology into the nose section.

Concealed behind the acetate nose bridge, the rim lock – usually featured on the side of the ring – ensures a perfect and comfortable fit.

Ca z a l » 6 0 7 / 3 « Are you the type to enjoy sipping giddy cocktails with little sun umbrellas on a yacht? Then the “607/3” model in white-gold is your perfect shipmate!

Ba r t o n P e r r e i r a » R e n a i ssa n c e «

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

Black meets white. Simply perfect. Barton Perreira’s “Renaissance” model is once again proof that opposites attract.

K BL » Lo n g Is l a n d « Looking to make a big appearance in the big city? These oversized plastic shades from creative label KBL will help you strike a pose.

C l a i r e Go l d s m i t h » Ha r r i s « Is white the new black? Looking at the rounded elegance of the “Harris” by Claire Goldsmith, we can see a trend in the making.

O l i v e r Go l d s m i t h » K oko ( 1 9 6 6 ) « White is a most versatile color: Sometimes it represents minimalistic elegance, sometimes innocence, and in this case feminine style.

Meet the “Koko” by Oliver Goldsmith.

Men @ Work

K atharina Platter from

Andy Wolf It’s all about design

But then again, Graz is the only large city south of the Alps in which German is the official language. On top of that, the capital of the Styria region is a cultural hub with a historic old town, declared an official UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. In 2003, Graz was voted the Cultural Capital of Europe and in 2011 won the price for City of Design. To set the stage for an in-depth conversation about design, we chose the centrally located and design-driven Hotel Daniel in Graz with its maxim, “Smart Luxury”. In order to bring the story full-circle, the graphic design of these pages also provides a few riffs on stylistic elements, as Katharina answered some of our questions by ways of pen, scissors, and paper in a number of collages, drawings and captions. Welcome to our Woman @ Work.

Photos & Te x t: Stefan Dongus

This issue’s photo shoot for the Men @ Work column took us all the way to Austria, where we caught up with Katharina Plattner, co-owner and designer of handmade label Andy Wolf Eyewear.

The company with a penchant for craftsmanship is located outside the town of Graz in the scenic Styria region. Despite the natural scenery, the location is actually quite close to the Austrian capital, Vienna (only two hours away), not to mention the nearby mountains in the North with optimal skiing conditions.

Just about two hours drive to the South lead to Croatia’s Adriatic coast, where Katharina Plattner likes to head for weekend escapes to dine on the country’s fresh seafood. It’s a luxury and rare privilege for anyone residing in a German-speaking country.

Photos: Stefan Dongus

Hunt A study in contrasts – feminine frames collide with purist acetate details.

Men @ Work

London, Paris, Graz Our interview with Katharina marks the second time this column show­ cases a woman, and the second one from Austria, at that. Mere coin­ cidence? Well, perhaps the ladies from the country of empresses Sissi and Marie Antoinette are the type to take matters into their own hands.

True to form, Katharina rolls up to the hotel in a jeep and warmly greets the manager, a good friend of hers. Apparently, she’s on personal terms with almost the entire town, at least the interesting folks. After all, she recruits the models for Andy Wolf Eyewear advertisement cam­ paigns almost exclusively from her private circle of friends. Anyone who’s seen a commercial or lookbook will agree that there’s a certain style DNA at work amongst the models. The same goes for Katharina’s look: Fashionable, almost exotic, with eyewear factoring in as a self-con­ fident fashion accessory, although her vision is 20/20 and she wears vanity

5046 »A style statement with glittering details.«

frames just for the look. As the marketing director for Andy Wolf, Katharina is at home in metropolitan cities such as London, Paris, and Berlin. But as her own base of operations, the quietude of Graz is the perfect choice, she says.

On that note, it may come as a surprise that a sleek, design-focused label such as Andy Wolf would hail from the rather quaint town of Graz.

At every tradeshow, the brand’s booth is home to some of the best tunes, spun by highly renowned DJs, while the company’s team is always bound to make a stylish appearance. All of this says “Big City”, not coun­ try­side, where the actual production, administration and logistics are located, about 45 minutes outside of Graz in the town of Hartberg.

Then again, “Made in Austria” is more than a marketing gimmick for Katharina Plattner and her two partners Andreas Pirkheim, and Wolfgang Scheucher. It’s the very foundation of the brand.

On average, Katharina only spends about two days of the week at the brand’s headquarters in Hartberg. The rest of her time – unless she

Beau »Small but mighty.«

is on the road – is spent at the design office in downtown Graz, or working from home where the only distractions are due to her one-and-ahalf-year-old son.

Caro »Great teardrop shape with an interesting bridge.«

Men @ Work

Hotel Daniel: Cube with a view on the Grazer Schloßberg

In her position, Katharina is able to put her personal signature on all communication efforts of the brand – with excellent results: Not only the photo shoots, but also the website and lookbooks carry their own unique brand signature. To make it happen, Katharina not only brings creative ideas, but also an ability for management to the table.

This is complemented by her avid interest in the economic and entrepreneurial aspects, drawing on insights from her time at business school.

Katharina’s schedule is testament to how much passion and energy she invests into her job. After the interview, she will head back to Hartberg for a design meeting, followed by the opening of a pop-up store in Vienna in the evening. Along the way, she will drop in with some partner opticians for a quick visit, a throwback to the times when Katharina worked on the distribution side. Maintaining a personal connection with her associates is an important part of Katharina’s job.

It’s also a great opportunity to get direct feedback and first-hand accounts of the needs and wishes of optical retailers. Once she returns home, Katharina will pack her bags for a four-week Trunk Show Tour of South Africa. Wait a second – what about that 18-month-old infant? He’s hopping along for the ride, together with grandma, simple as that! With all her designs for the next collection already under wraps, Katharina is looking forward to the exotic getaway, as it will surely bring inspiration and fresh ideas.

Men @ Work

WE ASK – YOU DESIGN

03.

How do you approach design?

Our Men @ Work column always includes a few personal questions, which Katharina was glad to answer. And since responses can be provided in any kind of medium – as long as it’s analog – the Andy Wolf Eyewear designer opted for pens, scissors, and paper to give some insights into her interior life.

01.

What’s your personal background?

04.

What can be found to the left, right, on top, and below Andy Wolf ?

02.

What inspires you?

05.

How have your designs changed over the years?

Men @ Work

06.

What’s the special something about Andy Wolf designs?

09.

How do you respond when your creativity isn’t flowing the way it should?

10.

What is Graz to you?

07.

When are you at your most productive?

11.

What does your favorite piece of eyewear look like?

08.

What are the most beautiful moments during your work?

Men @ Work

It’s all about Design In terms of variety, the design language of Andy Wolf Eyewear is more diverse than most other labels, ranging from classic to extravagant, always with that certain signature touch. It’s all about regional markets as well: Understated designs in subtle colorways are big sellers in German-speaking countries. Meanwhile, the brand’s unconventional designs and colors are highly popular in Russia and Asia. These styles are not for the faint of heart, but aimed at self-confident individuals who want to rock their unique pieces of eyewear with pride. Although opticians in German-speaking regions would like to bring in more extra­ vagant models, customers prefer the simple style, but demand is changing. Katharina also notes that opticians in rural areas tend to be more willing to take a leap into experimentation than their urban counterparts.

5028 »The definition of feminine elegance.«

In order to keep up with the constant demand for new eyewear designs, Katharina has enlisted some supporters in Andy Wolf ’s design department. This includes the addition of the first male designer as the third person on the team, now in charge of raising the number of men’s models in the collection that so far has been dominated by female and unisex styles.

Asked about her process for coming up with new, unconventional designs in true Andy Wolf style, Katharina points out everyday situations as the main source of inspiration. Whenever she meets new people, she secretly imagines what kinds of glasses would help accentuate their individual style. At her office, there’s no standardized template for exe­ cuting a design. Each pair of glasses has its own unique origin story.

And since inspiration can strike at any second, some glasses saw the light of day scribbled onto a napkin at a cafe or bar.

Next to designs, Katharina has another great passion in her life: Creating storylines and thematic worlds around her collections. For instance,

5041 »Acetate and metal of the same feather, flock together.«

the multi-media implementation of the Andy Wolf “White Heat” collec­ tion campaign was a textbook example of stringent storytelling across different channels. The campaign for the “AWE” collection raised the bar even further, and the fact that “AWE” is also an acronym for Andy Wolf Eyewear makes the design-driven collection even more, well.

AWE-some.

5043 »A new interpretation of a preppy vintage frame.«

BLURRY BLURRY VISION VISION

By Pascal Albandopulos

Clothing lef t: Dress: Dimitri | High Heels: Longchamp Clothing middle: Coat , Shir t & Pants: Strenesse | Shoes: Samsoe & Samsoe Clothing right: Knitted Sweater : Ryan Odyll | Pants: Basler | Booties: Guess

Coblens — »Die Glasorgelspielerin« » D e r Z u c k e r wat t e n v e r k ä u f e r « »Die Unzertrennlichen«

Makellos — »ME-9019« »ME-1011« »ME-9018«

Clothing lef t: Kimono: Dimitri | Dress: Karl Lager feld Clothing middle: Outfit: Lager feld Clothing right: Jacket: Dimitri | Pants: Strenesse | Gloves: Roeckl | Bag : Aigner

Martin & Martin — »Jonas« »Elias«

Clothing lef t: Jacket: Stone Island | T-Shir t: Roscoe by frontlineshop | Jeans: S .Oliver Denim Clothing right: Jacket: Lee | Shir t: S .Oliver Premium | Jeans: Dawn

Clothing lef t: Dress: Marciano Guess | Bag : Calvin Klein Platinum | Booties: Longchamp Clothing right: Dress: Marciano Guess | Necklace: Mango | Gloves: Irene Luf t | High Heels: Guess

Colibris — »Fr anzi No. 2« » H e dd a «

Jacket: Sand | Shir t & Jeans: Roscoe by frontlineshop | Belt: Lager feld

G - S ta r R aw — »T h i n R i c k n e r «

Clothing lef t: Leather Jacket: Oak wood | T-Shir t: Pally ’ Hi Clothing right: Leather Jacket: Rich & Royal | T-Shir t: Samsoe & Samsoe

Blac — »+67«

Bellinger — » P i t-2 «

Clothing lef t: Dress & Gloves: Irene Luf t Clothing right: Dress: Irene Luf t

Ca r lot ta s V i l l ag e — » H o r n s l e t« »Neil«

Photography: Pascal Albandopulos – georgios-photography.com Styling : Stephan Kallaus – stephankallaus .com Hair & Make-up: Maria Tavridou – maria-tavridou.com Models: Carolin Sünderhauf & Victoria Böninger @ munich-models .de , Michael Stannecker

Style: V793

#PEACEROCK S

Ringo Starr: Casa della Vista, Hollywood, CA Photographed by Danny Clinch, 2014

EYEWEAR Remdottica

+44 (0)1159 677912 SILMO Hall:6 Aisle:G Booth:#048

johnvarvatos.com/peacerocks

w w w. fle y e . d k

By Stefan K apfer

S A FA R I L o c at i o n Capetown, South Africa

T i m e Z ON E UT C + 1 h r s

COO R D INAT E S 3 3 .9 2 4 9 ° S 1 8 . 4 2 4 1 ° E

The photo shoot at Bufflesfontain Resort near Cape Town was a special highlight of my trip. In order to capture the best possible lighting conditions, we set up on location at 5:30 A.M. But the effort was well worth it, with the unique atmosphere and the animals that would pass by in close vicinity. In order to add a layer of storytelling around the glasses worn by our three models, I had them pose in front of different backdrops, including a gnarled, hollow tree. Because our model from New York is extremely fearful of snakes, I had to climb into the tree first to make sure it was entirely snake-free (it was).

One of the most amazing moments transpired when some curi­ous giraffes came by to check us out, and I seized the opportunity to snap them in front of a spectacular sunset. Those are the kind of moments that are worth all the work – and the ones that will stay in my memory forever.

P o p u l at i o n 3 . 74 0 . 0 0 0

Photos: StefanKapfer.de Production: H60office.de Styling: Nathalia Keen @ Gloss Artist Management CPT Make-Up: Helen CPT Models: Ania Charlotte Fusion Models CPT Vivian K. Outlaws Models CPT Morgan Gooddall Boss CPT Retouch: Carsten Klask Postroom.de Special thanks to Northsouthproduction

Shir t & Shor ts: Adriaan Kuiters Vest: Thabo Makhetha at Merchants on Long Shoes: Annies Angel’s

Götti — »Pieper«

86

Top: Take Care Red Skir t: Stefania Morland Necklaces: Henriette Botha

Götti — »Pinou«

Dress: Stefania Morland Leather Swan: Missibaba

Oliver Goldsmith — »V i c e Co n s u l «

Clothing him: Shir t & Vest Coat: Adriaan Kuiters Jeans: Holmes Br Clothing her : Top: Chechi Arinze at Kisua Shor ts: Anmari Honiball at Take Care Shoes: Annie’s Angels

Ta r i a n — » F r a n cs B o u r g o i s « » M a i n stag e «

Clothing her : Top: Hannah at Take Care | Trousers: Kisua | Boots: Annie’s Angels Clothing him: Coat , Shir t & Shor ts: Adriaan Kuiters | Shoes: Annie’s Angels

Woodone — » A l a n ya «

Dress: Kisua | Wrap: Hannah at Take Care

Pa p e r s t y l e — »Rösa 9«

Jumper : Stefania Morland | Springbok Bracelet: Okapi at Merchants on Long

KBL — »W i l d e S i d e «

KBL — »East Side« »W y n wo o d « »W y n wo o d « Clothing lef t: Dress: Stefania Morland | Leather Swan: Missibaba | Boots: Models own Clothing middle: Shir t & Shor ts: Adriaan Kuiters | Vest: Thabo Makhetha at Merchants on Long | Shoes: Annies Angel’s Clothing right: Coat: Hariri at Kisua ,

Dress: Stefania Morland | Leather Swan: Missibaba | Boots: Models own

Hamburg Eyewear — » Osk a r L G C «

ROLF Spec tacle s

T h e N e w E v o l v e d C o l l e ct i o n

»Foursome 101«

»Major 93«

»Foursome 103«

»Excellence 91«

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

L

iving up to its name, the new Evolved Collection by ROLF Spectacles took five years of refinement and development. The new evolution in eyewear rests upon a solid foundation: Since 2007, designers Roland Wolf and Marija Iljazovic have been making eyewear frames together with their siblings, Christian Wolf and Martin Iljazovic, and an emphasis on 100% wooden frames entirely with­out plastic or metal screws. The transformation from raw block material and finished eyeglasses requires an impressive 78 work steps, explains Marija. The maintenance-free hinges are equipped with a stop-function to prevent the temples from scratching or damaging the lenses while preventing the glasses from accidentally folding shut. For the Evolved Collection, the designers drew on ROLF’s rich technical heritage as well as the drive to innovate and raise the bar with their eyewear manufactured at an in-house workshop in Tyrol, Austria.

The new collection consists of sustainable, authentic, and vibrant eyewear in 17 new designs, implemented in nine different wood and four stone variations.

Col l ec tion Shoot

Götti Genuine Horn Precious craftsmanshiP shot in wilderness

South Africa offers the perfect location for photo shoots, especially since it’s summer time over there while Europe freezes over, and the light has a certain magical quality only found around the Cape of Good Hope. The natural beauty of the scenery also offers the perfect backdrop for capturing the five latest models from the Götti Genuine Horn collection.

In our Collection Check, the Swiss eyewear label’s head designer details the enduring love story between Götti and naturally-sourced horn.

GÖTTI — Babar B e tt y

Col l ec tion Shoot

GÖTTI — Babar

Sven Götti about the new Horn Collection Hello, Sven. Götti and Horn go back a long way…when did the two of you meet?

Götti and Horn, that is indeed a long love story. Actually, the very first pair of glasses I sold as an optician was made from horn. From then on, the natural material

has always had a hold on me. During my apprenticeship at a horn manu­factory in Vienna, I really fell in love with the material. So it’s no surprise that the very first Götti glasses were also crafted from horn.

GÖTTI — B Ba ar bd aort B e tt y

But right afterwards, horn took the backseat to acetate and metal in follow-up collections.

That’s correct, but horn remained my passion and always featured in the Götti collection, perhaps not that obviously.

Why the renewed focus on horn? And what keeps attracting you to the material?

I find it interesting that historically, many articles of daily use had been crafted from horn, including combs, buttons, and handles. Only the invention of plastics succeeded in pushing horn out of our daily lives.

And what makes horn so well-suited as a raw material for eyewear?

It’s like comparing cashmere to wool. The luxury is in the feeling on the skin, always at a convenient temperature and light as a

feather. I consider it as the perfect material for eyewear.

What are some of the most significant challenges when it comes to working with horn?

Opticians really need to love and understand the material, and communicate it appropriately to customers. Horn is a high-end natural material with inherent pros and cons.

What are some of the disadvantages? Is there some­thing wearers need to look out for?

Customers need to keep in mind that they are buying a piece of wearable art, and treat their glasses accordingly. Any types of sports or extreme situations are best to be avoided with horn glasses. That should be self-evident, just like not going out jogging in high-end leather dress shoes or sunbathing on the beach with a 10K pearl necklace.

Where do you source your raw materials and what are the processing steps?

Horn from Indian water buffaloes is perfectly suited to be processed into horn sheets. It’s not that rare of a material, actually. The main challenge lies in selecting which horns are suited for processing, because a lot of the inclusions and damages are only visible at the very end.

This poses great challenges for the manufacturing process. How do you maintain a constant level of production quality?

Keep in mind that we do not manufacture the frames ourselves.

But the quality requirements in our horn glasses production are indeed very high. Only the basic shape is milled from horn sheets, all the additional steps are conducted by hand. We have found the perfectly suited manufacturer in Germany. Our many on-site visits have yielded great insights into the company and the people behind it.

What differentiates Götti eyewear from horn glasses from other manufacturers?

Ultimately, it’s probably the way in which we work with our manufac­t urers. We aim to implement our idea of beautiful glasses and shapes down to the very last detail. Until in the end, our horn frames contain the characteristic Götti DNA. Are you able to communicate your DNA better with horn than acetate or metal frames?

It’s really up to the designer to make the advantages of each material shine. For me, horn is warm and sensual in a way.

These aspects are communicated by our horn collection.

GÖTTI — Baeo

Col l ec tion Shoot

On that note, five new styles have been added to your Genuine Horn collection. Aside from the material, how would you describe the collection?

The entire horn collection is actually 15 models strong, and we will be introducing five additional models at opti in Munich. These models present a continuation of Götti’s acetate form language, available in four typical horn colorways each.

Where do the typical horn colorways originate? There is no additional coloring process involved for the frames, right?

The natural color variations of horn are rather diverse. They vary from dark chocolate to champagne, from snow white to dark gray. The only feature to accentuate the colors is an intensive polish.

Horn connoisseurs love the material because the indi­vidual grain structure makes every pair of glasses a one-of-a-kind product. Is that important to you?

Definitely, every horn frame displays individual shades of colors and textures.

Do you have a certain type of person in mind as a wearer of horn frames?

They’re no longer just nerds…

Back when I was selling horn-framed glasses at the store, it was all about sharing the enthusiasm for the material with the customers. I think that athe type of person buying horn frames is someone with a large emphasis on the touch-and-feel of a product.

Which is your favorite model in the collection?

I would go with the BETTY.

GÖTTI — Baeo

Photos: Dirk Schumacher Styling : Petra Tielmann Hair & Make-Up: Julia Heierman c/o Liga West Post Production: Daniel Städler Models: Gabe Witmer, Ingrid Moe & Lauren @ Full Circle Model Management Fashion: Daniel Hechter, Forever 21 , Markham , Shana Morland , Stefania Morland , Zara Man

Ørgreen All Grown Up? S tate of the Ar t E ye we ar Goe s Back to the Root s

Sooner or later, even die-hard rebels are bound to grow up.

In the early 1990s, young bucks Henrik Ørgreen, Tobias Wandrup, and Gregers Fastrup were getting their kicks in the adrenaline-fuelled world of action sports with one foot in Denmark’s alternative art and culture scene. In 1997, the three amigos took the leap of faith into the eyewear business: Without prior experience in eyewear manufacturing – but tons of creative ideas – their upstart brand Ørgreen shook up the

industry with sunglasses designed with that certain board sports edge. Fast-forward to 2014 and Ørgreen has matured into a model example of high-end Danish design. Their hand-made frames from upscale materials are coveted designer items in 42 countries around the world. From rags to riches – from baggy jeans to business suits? Not so fast! In our EYEWEAR Interview, co-founder Henrik Ørgreen explains: The brand might have grown up, but the evolution continues – and the fun never stops!

Te x t: Dirk Vogel P h o t o s : St e f a n D o n g u s

Henrik Ørgreen

Status Passions

Attitude

44 1 x Sahra for 17 years Snowboarding, traveling, cooking and playing with my friends Don't take no for an answer Best Achievement Organizer of 3 x Scandinavia Open Age

Tobias Wandrup 43

Status 1 wife / 2 kids

Passions Wave kiting, travels, action sports

Attitude “Try most” Best Achievement Survived on a deserted Island

Age

Gregers »Gre x« Fastrup

Age 46 Status 1 wife / 2 kids

Passions Climbing, running, snowboarding and

the combination “Splitboard & mountaineering” Attitude Get of the grid whenever you have the

chance Best Achievement Life

Jeff »Hesh« Riese

Age Status

Passions

Attitude

40 + a few years 1 wife / 2 daughters The ocean, mountains and seeing the world Family first Best Achievement Wife and 2 daughters

» Only t ho se who gr ow up and r emain childr en, ar e t ruly human!« – Erich Kästner

Yo u t h g o n e w i l d Our story begins, not at an eyewear tradeshow or specialty optical store, but on a skateboard half pipe, somewhere in Copenhagen, Denmark. The year is 1983 and all the way up on the monstrous wooden contraption, almost 12 feet above the ground, is Henrik Ørgreen. His knees shaking, the slender 13-year-old positions his skateboard on the edge, squinting his eyes at the deep chasm below. Today is the day: Henrik is set to pull his first hand plant, or handstand maneuver, on the edge of the ramp. Ørgreen rolls in on his skate»Nothing is ever handed to you. Even if you have talent, it’s only 10 percent of the equation – the rest is hard work, also in business.

Not everybody understands that«

board, builds speed all the way up the opposite side – and seconds later ends up laying face down on the flat bottom. Ouch, maybe next try…

His early skateboarding experiences would leave a lifelong impression on Ørgreen: “I took a lot from skateboarding and its creative surroundings.

Everything is possible, but if you really want something, you have to work hard for it. If you want to learn how to do a hand plant in a half pipe, you need to try the same movements 400 times, until you finally make it, and you can’t be scared. Nothing is ever handed to you. Even if you have talent, it’s only 10 percent of the equation – the rest is hard work, also in business. Not

everybody understands that,” the 44-year old explains.

The board on four wheels also leads Ørgreen into the business world early on: At the tender age of 15, Henrik starts importing skate­boards via the German skateboard pioneer Titus Dittmann into Denmark in the mid-1980s. Only ten years later, his distribution company supplies riders all over Scandinavia with a portfolio of high-octane action sports brands such as Etnies, DC Shoes, Shut Skateboards, Lib Tech Snowboards, as well as California lifestyle eyewear brand Arnette.

On the side, Henrik stirs things up in the underground culture scene, organizing skateboard events and concerts with internationally acclaimed artists such as Fatboy Slim. It’s the holy trinity of action sports, music, and culture. Says Henrik: “Skateboard culture is way more than just some kids riding their boards. Just look at how many cool guys who today have their own respected brands and projects, started out in skateboarding. For me it’s been a creative space in which we built everything ourselves from the ground up. It was about culture, music, creativity and free thinking. That’s given me a lot.”

In 1997, Henrik feels himself approaching a turning point in his rather lucrative action sports distribution venture. His supplier, eyewear brand Arnette, has changed owners and, as Henrik concludes, “lost its heart.” In the bigger picture, Henrik is looking for, “a new challenge.

Something I had no idea about yet.” Perhaps he could start his own brand? “ One of my customers had an eyewear store and kept nudging me, ‘Make your own glasses, you have to make your own glasses!’ I told him, ‘No way! I haven’t the slightest experience!’ But he stirred up an idea in me…” »We are still a rather small company, but the way in which we plan and develop is super professional. Sometimes it’s downright scary how grown-up we’ve become!«

Ta k i n g t h e p lu n g e Henrik calls for a meeting with his two snowboard buddies at a park in Copenhagen to tell them about his latest idea: Although he has no clue about the optical trade, he knows everyGif ted product designers know how to make a carr y-on sur fboard – DIY split-technique in full effect . thing about the look and styling of cool shades.

“Guys, we’re launching Scandinavia’s very O n t h e s a m e wav e l e n g t h first sunglasses brand! Are you in?!” Turns out, Board sports also introduce Henrik to his later they are! The three seal the deal with a handshake. business partners Tobias Wandrup and Gregers Tobias brings significant experience as an indusFastrup. Although they don’t meet in Copenhatrial designer into the team, while Gregers spent gen, where they all live at the same time – that years distributing Arnette with Henrik. Although would be too easy. Gregers and Henrik strike up minor details such as running a pro­fessional a conversation at the snowboard half pipe chamdesign process, sourcing materials and handling pionships in Sweden, and discover their shared passion for boarding and related business ventures. manufacturing remain entirely unclear, the three launch into their new venture Fastrup, at the time, is also a distributor for snowwith typical board sports do-it-yourself bravado: boards, including brands such as Barefoot, and “We’ll find out about all that stuff as we go!” the two become “instant best friends.” Henrik And while new eyewear brands sprout up on a meets Tobias on a snowboard trip to the French daily basis today – most of them consisting of Alps: “We instantly had the same chemistry, were 100 percent on the same wavelength,” Hen- 90% marketing and 10% generic frames Made in China – the three Ørgreen founders decide rik recalls.

from the start: “We’ll do everything ourselves!

For us it was always an idea of perfection and Danish design. It always had to be underground and hardcore.”

media attention, the brand is lacking in sales.

Development costs for injection-molded prototypes are too high, production runs too small to turn a profit. “We’re out of money,” Henrik tells his partners. The end – or is it?

N o c o m p r o m i se s Using the earnings from Henrik’s distribution T i ta n i u m to t h e r e s c u e outfit as a war chest, the Ørgreen crew heads out Henrik had already sold his house in 1997, now in search of manufacturing partners in 1997. Since the founders are mobi­lizing funds wherever they none of them could draw technical design sketchcan to keep the dream alive. Meanwhile, es, the three board sports enthusiasts mold their they’re considering a compromise: Perhaps designs from modeling putty. Somehow, they Ørgreen should branch out into making prescripfind a small manufacturing outfit for hand-made tion eyewear, especially since it will sell during eyewear in Austria, and soon drive the traditionthe cold Scandinavian winters? “That was really a al family operation to the brink of insanity with part of growing up for their zany ideas. “Even back then, we were not the company,” said Henrik. “In our young beginwilling to make any type of compromises. We nings, we weren’t ready to make any compromisgave those guys lots of gray hairs back then, I can es. Then we said okay to producing an RX collectell you,” Henrik laughs. tion in Italy with around ten models, most of Next to the “Tractor” snowboard shades, the them from classically inspired “C53” model based on a 1956 acetate.”

Corvette gets the ball rolling for Ørgreen eyewear. “We were always fascinated with designs of the 1950s. Everything was permitted, as long as it looked good.” After two years, Ørgreen switches production to Italy, launching additional hand-made models such as the “Grant” and “Pearl”, the latter famously worn by Danish Princess Mary on public outings. But despite growing

In search of new materials and larger production volumes, the crew ends up in Japan, where they meet a crucial contact: Mr. Takanori Ashida.

The local insider not only maneuvers the Scandinavian action sports buffs past the pitfalls of Japanese (business) culture, but also offers impor­­t ant strategic direction: “Titanium with two layers, each in a different color. That’s what you guys need to be doing!” the businessman suggests.

And it works: “The beta titanium really was the turning point for us, and I am eternally grateful to Takanori! Within the first year of the collection in 2003, we more than doubled our sales, and within another year quadrupled them with models like the D-cut.” The rest is history: With high-end titanium frames and a wave of innovations including the “Helium” model in beta titanium, Ørgreen soars into the big leagues and pulls a perfect hand plant at the top of the international eyewear world.

fessional. Sometimes it’s downright scary how grown-up we’ve become!” Henrik laughs.

Growing up is all very well, but remember what Pablo Picasso said: “Every child is an artist.

The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up.” How does Ørgreen manage to keep its edge and drive inno­vation nowadays? “That’s why we have created the Ørgreen Playground internally. It’s where everything goes, even things that won’t sell, as long as they are fun and just totally crazy. That’s the way it has to be. If you’re trying to find inspiration within the eyewear business, you’re never going to make any progress.”

C o m i n g f u l l- c i r c l e : Ø r g r e e n S u n & Sn o w

After maintaining a solid focus on prescription eyewear for almost a full decade, the past two years have marked a return to Ørgreen’s roots in the sunglasses segment: “This brings things full circle for us and we have been approaching it with R e sp o n si b l e g r o w n - u p s a professional focus and an extensive col­lection.

In 2014, Ørgreen operates with a team of 22 emBut still, the designs need to look special and ployees at company head­quarters overlooking have that certain edge,” Henrik points out. historic Hauser Plads in Copenhagen, while Still on the lookout for new challenges, the a network of over 100 partners brings the exclusive, Ørgreen crew found in­spiration in the world of hand-made frames to customers in 42 countries action sports for their first-ever snow goggles around the world. What was once a reckless and collection, released this winter season. In order uncompromising start-up company has matured to make it happen, Henrik drew on his roots and into a tightly wound production outfit. “Today brought in a crucial board sports acquaintance as our launch strategies are planned one-and-athe new production manager: California board half years in advance. The level is incredibly sports enthusiast Jeff Riese, aka “Hesh”, brings high. We are still a rather small company, but the over 20 years experience as the former snow way in which we plan and develop is super proexpert at Arnette ...

Ø R G REEN M i l e S to n e s

... and co-founder of VonZipper to the table.

“People asked me whether launching into snow goggles was a big challenge for us, and I said, “No challenge at all – we got Hesh!’ For me it’s really a long-time dream come true!” said Henrik.

So the dream and the search for new kicks still go on, although Ørgreen may be all “grown up” these days. It’s been a long journey, says Henrik: “At first, we were really inspired by art, while today our focus is on high-end design. That makes me really proud. We’re really satis­fied with titanium and it will always be the soul of our collection.”

»At first, we were really inspired by art, while today our focus is on high-end design.

That makes me really proud. We’re really satisfied with titanium and it will always be the soul of our collection.«

The young-at-heart company founder is especially stoked about the fact that his two cohorts, Gregers and Tobias, are still by his side. “After almost 18 years, we are all still friends, working together in our company. Of course there’s been some disputes here and there, we’ve had our share of break-ups and divorces along the way. At this point, it’s like you’re married to those guys.

But we’ve stayed together and our bond has never been stronger than today. And that makes us very happy every single day.”

Gr an t Handmade in Italy, this release from 1999 was inspired by Hollywood icon Cary Grant.

d - cu t In 2003, Ørgreen opened up titanium production in Japan, thanks to business insider Takanori Ashida. The D-cut model opened a new chapter as, “the first bestseller and a milestone in company history.”

T 56 With the “T56” model Ørgreen was ahead of its time. Over the coming years, the double temples would be copied a million times by competitors – perhaps the sincerest form of flattery.

Pe arl Also hand-made in Italy and released in 2002, the “Pearl”-model had its breakthrough worn by the Danish heiress to the throne.

c 53 The design was inspired by a 1956 classic Corvette, and this model featured the first typical Ørgreen temples.

A special one…

T HE

LAUNCH

www.brandoeyewear.com

sales@brandoeyewear.com

Clothing Lef t: Blouse: Alice's Pig Right: Blouse: Karin Fraidenraij

Kilsgaard — »S u n 4 .4 /4 « »Sun 8.1/15«

For your Eyes Only

By Christian Steinhausen

Top: La Perla | Jacket: Liebeskind | Bracelets: By Malene Birger

Strada del Sole — » NS 0 0 2 A «

Dress: Uniqlo

Strada del Sole — » NS 0 0 1 A J «

Clothing lef t: Wool Vest: Karin Fraidenraij | Pants: Alice's Pig Clothing right: Dress: By Malene Birger

Mercedes Benz Style — »M 3017« »M 3016«

Leisure Society — » Em p e r a d o r «

Clothing lef t: Blouse: La Perla Clothing right: Top + Bra: La Perla | Pants: Tiger of Sweden | Bracelets: By Malene Birger

Barton Perreira — »Hopper«

M ay b a c h — » Th e P r i m a d o n n a II «

Clothing lef t: Necklace & Hat: By Malene Birger Clothing right: Body: Karin Fraidenraij | Pants: Mavi

R a l p h Va e s s e n — » H u b e r t«

Photography: Christian Steinhausen – christiansteinhausen.com Styling : Patrick Lief – patricklief.com Hair &Make-up: Kerstin Hoffmann-Riedel @ Basics Agency Models: Malina & Merle @ Izaio Management

Clothing : Body: Karin Fraidenraij | Pants: Mavi

Y o hj i Y a m a m o t o — » YY 5 0 0 2 «

R ay- B a n — » L i g h t R ay« » Av i at o r L a r g e M e ta l « » L i g h t R ay«

Mirrored

By R aphael Schmitz

Andy Wolf — » G i n a W. « » D e l i g h t« » J o y«

D o l c e & G a bb a n a — » DG 2 1 4 4 « » DG 4 2 3 4 « » DG 4 2 4 3 «

i c ! b e rl i n — » C h r i st i a n W e t t e r fa h n e « »Guenther« »Helene«

Etnia Barcelona — »Africa06« »Africa06« »Africa05«

I ta l i a I n d e p e n d e n t — »0903« »0900« »0090«

Collection Check

Luna Park

by Coblens E ye we ar In most cases, our Collection Check column tends to follow a solid Q&A pattern.

But Fabian Hofmann, co-founder of independent eyewear label COBLENS, has never been a fan of pre-established rules. Born in Luzern, Switzerland, and residing in Berlin as the brand’s designer, Hofmann has something different in mind. Here’s his take on implementing new designs from the inside out and how thinking outside the box can lead to straightforward results. Not to forget the new COBLENS collection LUNA PARK, set in a world of illusion while remaining grounded in expert craftsmanship. Welcome to the dreamscapes of LUNA PARK, please leave your preconceptions at the door.

how about a square one?’”

THE DESIGNER Instead, Hofmann has carved out a name in the Architecture, upholstery, lava lamps, porcelain, business by cre­ating collections with their own fabrics and, of course, eyewear. Throughout his emotional context. “For me it’s about conveydesign career, Fabian Hofmann has worked with ing a certain feeling or capturing a specific era, in a wealth of media and materials, always mainwhich the collection is located. This kind of limtaining a hands-on approach. “I’m really into itation marks the moment, where true freedom traditional craftsmanship and always tried begins.” to learn skills from the ground up. And once you’ve figured out the inner workings of something, you’re in a position to elevate it to the next LUNA PARK: THE STORY For the new LUNA PARK collection, the designer level and create something new in the here and drew inspiration from now.” the amusement parks of the same name that had Ever since his early days, the designer born in their start in 1903 1966 has made a point of challenging the status on Coney Island, New York. Up until the 1930s, quo, backed by craftsmanship and an eye a wave of Luna Parks opened across the world, for precision (as a young architect, they called dazzling visitors with rides such as early bumper him “the watchmaker” at construction sites). cars and roller coasters, next to sideshows inThis unique vision also applies to eyewear. “I’ve volving human curiosities like snake charming always been bored by simply creating two-toand fire eating. three pretty glasses and slapping some catchy “As far as the feeling goes, the collection is set in names on them. Or working with standard the 1930s. It’s a bit of a precepts like, ‘Go and make a round frame, or morally lax, but also highly festive kind of world.

Collection Check

Die Bärtige Frau: »The Bearded Lady. Okay, okay, I have a beard. But so does everybody. So what?«

A visit to Luna Park was a special occasion for people back in the day. They dressed up in their Sunday best and enjoyed riding the bumper cars, called the ‘Eiserne See’ [Iron Lake]. Or they would visit the ‘Original Native African Native Village’, where carnies in blackface milled about.

Everything is an illusion – nothing is real!” says Hofmann about the process behind models named with the German equivalent of “The Siamese Twins,” “The Cotton Candy Vendor,” and “The Bearded Lady.”

THE DESIGN: NO LIMITATIONS “The visitors would slip into a different persona on their visit to Luna Park.

Everybody had a chance to be who they desired to be,” said the de­signer. “This kind of suspension of boundaries is reflected in the fact that the entire collection has been conceptualized

without gender speci­fications. Even the men’s glasses contain elements otherwise reserved for women’s models. But who knows? Perhaps a delicate women’s frame would be perfect for a muscular, masculine bald head, or a large men’s frame suits a petite elfin lady looking for big, owllike eyes.”

During the early design stages, Hofmann decided: “The glasses are meant to express a certain festiveness, without appearing overly decorated. So without added decor plates in the style of large Italian eyewear labels.”

Alternatively, the designer wanted the collection’s style and uniqueness to be rooted at the heart of the process.

Similar to the buildings created by architects Herzog & de Meuron, the singularity of the glasses needed to manifest from the “inside out.”

Says Hofmann: “When ...

Die Shimmytreppe: »The Shimmy Staircase.

These stairs present the next step in elegance.«

... a new idea is grounded in the nucleus of production, like an early mutation, the resulting product has a chance to be entirely new and dif­ferent. And you also don’t need any stunts and special effects.”

MATERIALS: ACETATE MEETS TITANIUM The journey to Luna Parks marks a departure for titanium stalwarts COBLENS into the acetate segment, all the while remaining faithful to the tradition for functional hinges crafted from titanium. “Everything in the new collection continues to feel hand-made, because it is,” said Hofmann. In true COBLENS tradition, all frames are fully mechanically bolted, making them far easier to repair than glued or heat-fused glasses on the mass-market. And as Hofmann points out: “Acetate is actually a natural material, not plastic. In our case, the acetate is based on cotton, requiring far less solvent during production.”

THE PRODUCTION: UNIQUE DESIGN DNA Based on Hofmann’s signature combination of unconventional thinking and expertise in materials and craft skills, the “made-in-Germany” glasses of the LUNA PARK collection cultivate a unique look rooted deeply within the design DNA. “Using an industry-standard mill­­­ing robot, we created a novel programming

method for pathways to achieve new kinds of structures in the acetate. In hindsight, these patterns may appear logical, but they could have never been achieved with conventional thought processes.”

Thanks to LUNA PARK’s characteristic surface pattern finishes such as the ray-shaped “Star Burst” or the parallel lines of the “Fold” pattern, even classic-looking shapes appear in a new light. “You could compare a conventional finish of the same frame side-by-side and really, they could be two entirely different models.”

THE COLLECTION: WELCOME TO LUNA PARK Next to an array of characteristic surface structures, the LUNA PARK col­lection is marked by a festive color spectrum; from dark, mascu­line shades all the way to feminine gemstone tones such as emerald, sap­phire and aquamarine. Combined with patterns etched into the material the surface shines with a certain gleam – not “bling” – reminiscent of natural crystals.

Asked about his favorite model, Hofmann revealed: “I’m going to wear the ‘Schiffschaukelbremser’ [Swingboat Break Operator] model.

It’s a decidedly masculine frame with a bulky shape, but thanks to the surface-etching and crystal finish, perhaps not really suited for the regular Joe who just wants to blend in.”

Ultimately, we’ll just have to wait and see what kind of faces and personalities will be wearing the “Unseparables,” “Bearded Lady,” and other curiosities in the new collection. “Everything is possible at Luna Park. Just be who you want to be, live your life and never let yourself be limited by conventions.”

Collection Check

Der Schiffschaukelbremser: » T he Swingboat Break Operator.

Large, strong, and self confident – but also pretty macho?«

Photos: Raphael Schmitz Text: Dirk Vogel

Die Schlangenfrau: » T he Snake Woman. She was already f lexing before yoga was all the hype.«

Der Zuckerwatteverkäufer: » T he Cotton Candy Vendor. Who said that all sweet kittens necessarily have to be girls?«

Collection Check

Die Glasorgelspielerin: » T he Glas Organ Player. Shining from the inside, she is always upbeat and conversational, sometimes a bit loud, but quieter tones are also her thing.«

Die Unzertrennlichen: » T he Inseparables. We have so much in common, back in the day we used to wear the exact same thing. But now we’re our own personalities.«

L e i s u r e S o c i e t y HAHN This edition of Details zooms in on the new Leisure Society “Hahn” model. This elegant piece of eyewear offers plenty of remarkable details, including the gold-plated crossbar and marble grain surface for an upscale finish. Instead of large, in-your-face logos, the label founded by Shane Baum has created a recognizable brand identity through its signature style and form language. Asked about his creative process, Shane Baum allowed that even the smallest details in his environment can be an inspiration. For the Hahn model, Baum drew inspiration from “Emperador”, a rare marble stone found in the quarries of Spain’s Novelda mountain range. The smooth, gray rock is pervaded by veins of white crystal-like material and provided the inspiration for the acetate blend used in the new glasses. The frames are crafted from 100% titanium and covered with 24-karat gold, highly visible in the golden crossbar topping the lenses. Upscale materials and elaborate frames with plenty of details – the Hahn has it all.

Photos: Raphael Schmitz

d e ta i l s

R

U N D v e r s u s S Q

ARE

Ørgr een »S t el l a P ol a r is « Stella Polaris is the Latin name of the Pole Star. As a fixed demarcation point in the Northern hemisphere, Ørgreen is lighting up the fashion cosmos. As you will see: It’s a world that never gets tired of re-inventing and surprising itself.

Rol f » Penn a n t Su n 56« Less is more: With this almost sculptural design of a wooden sunglasses frame, the Austrian label is making a bold statement. Crafted from specially sealed veneer wood, the frames utilize wooden hinges for a complete departure from metal and plastics.

A ndy Wol f » Bl iss « Eyewear style goes around and around, but round glasses will always remain a hot ticket. Case in point: Check out these tortoiseshell sunglasses with a double metal nose bridge from the latest Andy Wolf collection! Girls, it’s your turn!

K il sg a a r d » Model 55. 1/3« Hold on to your seats, the latest spectacle has come to town! Prepare to be amazed by Kilsgaard’s new round shades.

K il sg a a r d »Su n 9. 1/15« Subtle designs can be the most intricate works of style. For proof, look no further than this Kilsgaard creation.

C a lv in K l ein » CK7950S « Who’s afraid of blank spaces? Dresses, boots, and handbags already feature cut outs in all shapes and sizes. Now Calvin Klein is intro­ ducing negative space into eyewear design.

LINDBERG »8578« Timeless elegance without gimmicks: LINDBERG keeps it simple and straight­­­ forward for a stylish and self-confident look.

Hof f m a nn N at u r a l E y e w e a r » Piece of Hor n A r t« Dickes Ding: Derber Schmuck ist schon lange salonfähig und auch extravagante Brillen lassen

Mit dem Modell von Hoffmann trägt man ein kleines Kunstwerk direkt auf der Nase.

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

sich perfekt zum feinen Cocktailkleid kombinieren.

G -S ta r R aw » Fat De x t er« The Dutch designer brand cultivates quality manufacturing and industrial design, also reflected in the accentuated functional details of the “Fat Dexter” model. The frames elevate functional screws into adornments, complemented by industrial-style embossments in the outer temples.

FLEYE » Or i « Not all sunglasses are built the same. Need proof? How about the “Ori” model from the current FLEYE collection. Harmonious color gradients paired with a classic frame shape make a bold statement.

L eisu r e Socie t y »Va l l e jo « Prescription eyewear has hardly ever looked this stylish: Leisure Society’s “Vallejo” model combines a marble effect, circular silhouette and chiseled metal top bar in a clear design language.

A l a in Mik l i » A03020« If you’re in the market for a bold frame with strong contrasts and interesting color combinations, Alain Mikli has got

Photo: Raphael Schmitz

you covered.

M a r k us T »T3041312« Correct your vision, get a style upgrade – with Markus T’s delicate reading glasses in distinguished black.

Hamburg E ye we ar »Osk ar« And the “Oskar” goes to… These oversized frames with an upscale metal finish raise the bar for clean lines and aesthetics.

Me tropol itan »Mod. 8222« Frames painted with a color gradient are the perfect match for trapezoid-shaped faces, especially when the upper segment is a darker shade than the bottom. The resulting look makes smaller foreheads appear broader, which also works well on round faces.

M a rc O’ P olo »503051« It’s hip to be square in these masculine frames for self-confident and sophisticated gentlemen.

Photos: Dirk Schumacher

KBL » K i n g s C r o s s « | » T h e G r a m e r c y« » N o l i ta« | » Ba r r i os « | » Ba r r i os « | » K i n gs C ross «

L a b e l U p dat e

KB L *

*Kind of Bohemian Lifest yle

140

L a b e l U p dat e

KBL – »East Side«

From New

Yor k

Founded in New York City in 2009, eyewear brand KBL has been drawing inspiration from metropolitan cities and artist communities all around the planet. Over the past few months, the constantly evolving brand has been turning heads with a number of surprising designs, which have found their way into numerous high-end retail locations. With so much going on, it’s high time for EYEWEAR magazine’s Label Update. We caught up with KBL in the magical light of Cape Town.

KBL – » S o u t h w a lk « KBL – »W i l d S i d e « »Barrios«

to Cape

141

Town

L a b e l U p dat e

“We take inspiration from everything we love,” reads the upcoming eyewear brand’s passionate mission statement. And in case you were wondering, the name KBL is short for “Kind of Bohemian Lifestyle”. The progressive label feels at home in the world’s major metropolitan cities and caters to an artistic, design-oriented target group – but without taking itself overly seriously. For proof, just check out KBL’s photo shoots, depicting models alive with laughter and enjoyment, rather than vacantly glancing into space in an air of vapid nonchalance as seems to be the industry standard these days. It’s a refreshing take on things, just as refreshing as looking at the world through the brand’s mineral-based lenses available in photo-chromatic gradient shading.

KBL – »Rusty Pelikan«

Photography: Dirk Schumacher Styling : Petra Tielmann Hair & Make-Up: Julia Heierman @ Liga West Post Production: Daniel Städler Models: Gabe Witmer, Julia Horst & Candice @ Full Circle Model Management Fashion: Billabong , Cotton On , Countr y Road , Le Temps du Cerises , Levi’s , MRP, Pichulik , W35T

The brand’s prescription models and sun­glasses are crafted from Italian acetate and Japanese titanium, replete with the brand’s ultra-flat hinges featuring the laser-etched KBL logo. The temples fea­t ure a miniature replica of the Empire State Building as a metal inlay, a strong reminder of the city that continues to inspire KBL even six years after its founding.

We’ll let the photos of the frames do the rest of the talking. And feel free to keep up with the evolution of the brand at www.kbleyewear.com.

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By Va l e n t in M 체 h l

Hong L ocation Hong Kong, China

Time ZONE UTC + 8 hrs

Hong Kong, a city that never sleeps.

I recently had the chance to spend two months in search of new creative experiences in this bustling metropolis. And I brought lots of greatlooking eyewear with me, courtesy of EYEWEAR magazine.

My plan was to shoot eyewear photos at several different locations. Since I was a complete stranger to Hong Kong, this meant spending a lot of time on location scouting; a great way to learn about a new city.

I was also fortunate to have someone on my Asian/ European team who not only spoke the language, but was also familiar with the city. Because although English is rather prevalent here, attempts at making contact with the locals in English most often yields a cold shoulder.

But whenever we set up to shoot at busy locations, we would be surrounded within a mere ten minutes by over 50 onlookers, standing around in a circle and curiously capturing the action with their own cameras. So in hindsight, the city was as much of a spectacle to us, as we were for the city.

Photos: Valentin M체hl Hair: Rebecca Ng Make-Up: Saint Warren Styling: Ira Otivar Models: Melissa T @ Dreammodels, Risa @ CalCarries Models, Alexis & Zuzana @ Quest Model

ko n g CO O R D I N AT e S 22.3964째 N 114.1095째 E

P op u lation 7.0 97.0 0 0

An d y W o l f — »Bliss«

M a r c St o ne — »M2502 B«

146

INVU — »B2507 B«

J o hn V a r v a t o s — »V 6 0 0 «

J o hn V a r v a t o s — »V 3 6 2 « »V 2 0 0 «

149

E tn i a B a r ce l o n a — » A f r i c a 0 5 H V GR «

E tn i a B a r ce l o n a — »Y o k o h a m a «

H a p te r — »C03L«

HALLE C4 STAND 614

M A D E I N I TA LY

Tequil a

Sunr ise S t il l - L if e Sh o ot at t h e C a r ib b e a n Se a

By Sabine Lie wald

S e r e n g e t i »V e n e z i a «

S e r e n g e t i » Is o l a «

Serengeti »Leonardo«

155

C a lv i n K l e i n » C K 1 2 0 1 S «

C a lv i n K l e i n » C K 7 9 5 1 S «

Entourage of 7 »Los Feliz«

Entourage of 7 »Florence«

Es p r i t » ET 1 7 8 6 0 «

Es p r i t » ET 1 7 8 6 1 «

158

Es p r i t » ET 1 7 8 4 9 «

Loz z a » Z i lo S p o r t«

Lozza »Cooper«

25 Years FALL OF THE WALL

Celebrating the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, German optical industry association SPECTARIS dedicated their annual Trend Forum to the monumental event. We were honored to be asked to contribute our photographic interpretation of the theme. At the same time, we wanted to part with established clichÊs and not convey life in the East German republic, the GDR, from a historic per­ spective.

THE REASON WHY

Our approach was a contemporary interpretation of life on the other side of the Wall – modern and sexy.

The photo shoot really came together when optician Kuno Karl from the town of Hagenow sent us some appropriate glasses to work with. As it turns out, the East German optical industry has been far ahead of the curve in terms of trends. Throwback styles from back in the day are almost identical to the newest models by leading eyewear brands today.

P ho t os: S t efa n Dongus S t y l i ng: Rol f Buck H a ir & M a k e- Up : Nicol a Weide m a n n Model s: E l l e n va n der P l a nck e n, Sis si Pohl e , M a n u el Ilji t sch, Da n n y K luc z n y

L .G . R »T r i p o l i « Kilsgaard »SUN 4.12/13« M y k i t a M y l o n » Plut o «

EYEWE AR Con$p1r ac¥ Berlin Eyewear Triad stages market takeover +++ takes aim at global supremacy +++ On Monday, December 29, 2014, an anonymous industry insider left a

We packed our bags and headed to Berlin, where we wired the entire cafe

voice message on our office answering machine. His voice trembling,

St. Oberholz – the site of the clandestine meeting – with listening

the stranger detailed an upcoming conspiratorial meeting staged by the

devices. Then we laid in waiting, telescopic lenses aimed at the prospec­

Berlin Eyewear Triad for the founding of the Trés Group. This corpo­

tive meeting site.

ration has set out reach at least 80% market penetration internationally within its first year of existence, setting the stage for global market

The events we would be privy to over the next 45 minutes are bound

dominance. In order to achieve this goal, the group will leverage hostile

to shake up the entire eyewear business to the core, initiating a

takeovers using assumed names and letterbox companies scattered

complete reorganization of the entire market. Soon we learned about

across the world. The first public appearance of the Trés Group is planned

the devious individuals behind the ominous Triad, and what their

for January 9, 2015, at opti tradeshow in Munich.

motives are. Here at cafe St. Oberholz, known as the epicenter of Berlin’s start-up company culture, the three conspirators instantly stood

Trés Group? Is someone playing an April Fool’s prank in late December?

out like a sore thumb. After all, their table at the cafe was the only one

What’s going on? And most of all, who on Earth is behind the “Eye­

missing an opened MacBook laptop… Thinking ahead, the three

wear Triad”? We tried to return the call, but the informant’s mobile phone

were hiding their identities behind the following assumed names: Jörn

remained deactivated – forever. In a rash decision, we notified our

Viegelahn, Claas Witzel, and Christoph Hahne. But they can’t fool

printer to push back the release of our new issue by one week. There

Eyewear mag! Prepare to be amazed as we uncover the world’s biggest

was no way we were missing out on this breaking news story.

secret.

E Y E W E A R I N V E S T I GAT I O N

+ + + Protocol of the cl andestine incep tion of a business entit y + + +

10:13 A.M.

All is still quiet at cafe St. Oberholz. This has been the launch site for many start-ups of the digital bohemian generation. The Eyewear Triad is taking considerable risks in choosing this meeting point, as the place is haunted by millionaires and creative types.

Therefore, the cafe holds the danger of blowing the cover of our conspiracy-mind­ ed billionaires at any moment.

10:14 A.M.

The boss of the Berlin Hell’s Angels chapter pulls up. While the digital workers on the other tables franti­c ally secure their Mac­ Books, members of the Triad keep their cool. The gang leader salutes the three eyewear dons and proceeds to send three espressi to their table. When Claas asks about the paint finish of his sports car, the underground boss allows having just fin­ ished the second coating.

P h o t o s : St e f a n D o n g u s Te x t: Holger von Krosigk

E Y E W E A R I N V E S T I GAT I O N

1 0 : 2 1 A . M . M y k i t a f o r s p e c s B e rl i n » H a nk «

The Triad is still involved in everyday tasks. Claas is checking his stock market app, smirking at the ups and downs of global raw material fortunes.

Someone with less playing money at their hands may have been worried in face of plans for the production of 80 million pairs of eyewear.

But Claas stays mellow.

10:23 A.M. Kilsgaard »SUN 8.1/15«

Christoph makes a determined point when the con­ versation shifts to the hostile takeover of current Big Players in our industry. The Triad will only have few things to worry about, though, including which brands will be killed off in 2015, and which ones will live on as part of the Trés Group portfolio.

“Those who don’t bend, will be cut off. Simple as that, dude!”

1 0 : 2 9 A . M . Ø rgr e e n » E a s y R i d e r «

Jörn is known for a penchant for lightning fast de­ cision-making. His methods are hardly considered democratic, but unrivaled in terms of efficiency.

Since a pre-booked hall at opti Munich could never be cleared of competing brands in time for their total takeover, he gets Munich on the phone and orders the construction of three new exhibition halls. Done!

10:33 A.M.

The plot is unfolding like clockwork. The Berlin Eyewear Triad proceeds with precision and takes no prisoners. When the owner of the cafe accidentally nudges a pair of glasses on the table, Jörn threatens him with a hostile take­ over and changing the name to “St. Under­ wood”. The boss of the Hell’s Angels squints his eyes, closely watching the action.

E Y E W E A R I N V E S T I GAT I O N

1 0 : 4 3 A . M . Ø rgr e e n » In s i d e r «

1 0 : 3 5 A . M . L . G . R » T r i p o l i Sn a k e L e a th e r «

Christoph is the spitting image of calm coll­ ectedness, occasionally tipping his hat. The stylish headpiece is a souvenir from the Cay­ man Islands, where he spent the previous day on the golf course. Overhearing a conver­sation about start-up companies at the next table, he has to chuckle since all digits on the budget still fit on a calculator display.

10:39 A.M. Kilsgaard »SUN 8.1/15

Claas produces the preliminary con­ tracts for the series of takeovers, drafted the previous week by an army of lawy­ ers, as well as the articles of incorpora­ tion for the Trés Group. In wise foresight, the law offices of Jacob & Jakob Associa­ tes had advised against replacing the enti­ re wording of the contract with the single word, “market monopoly”. Too obvious…

Without batting an eye, Jörn signs the corporate charter and hands it over to a Hell’s Angel prospect. He orders the impressionable young man with tak­ ing the papers to the notary. The pros­ pect enthusiastically thanks Jörn for his trust and takes off, engine roaring.

1 0 : 4 5 A . M . L . G . R » T a ng e r i «

Whenever guests from other tables steal glances at the con­ spirators, the Triad assumes an air of innocuous indifference. In order to distract from the mo­ mentous weight of the meeting, they role play the stages of a difficult brainstorming session, replete with head-scratching and strained looks, grasping for ideas.

10:47 A.M. Kilsgaard »SUN 2.1/1«

Something has roused Claas’s suspicion. Someone sitting at the next table might have blown his cover. She’s a business journalist on the Forbes magazine payroll, working on a story about “Dis­ ruptive Companies”. After she name-drops Apple to her neighbor, Claas becomes frantic about “Trés Group” being next in line. He im­ mediately cancels the meeting.

10:49 A.M. Ø rgr e e n » D i r e c t o r s Cut «

Despite the disturbance, the three con­spirators under the aliases Jörn, Claas, and Christoph manage to hold it together until the check ar­ rives. They briefly revisit the idea of a hostile takeover of the cafe, but decide to settle the check and head out. “Keep the change!”

E Y E W E A R I N V E S T I GAT I O N

+ + + The perfec t cover + + + The three masterminds behind the Berlin Eyewear Triad have been hiding in plain sight for the past few years behind the perfect cover. Actually, they went so deeply undercover, it’s hard for them to remember who they really are sometimes.

In the process, they managed to fool the entire industry with their trickery. They even have the audacity of meeting every evening at different restaurants across town, posting their exploits on their aliases’ Facebook pages to further deflect from their true identity. The plan is working, and the trio is taking over one company after another under their false identities.

T he S t r at egist Al ias: “Christoph Hahne” L.G.R »Reunion Sun «

Christoph charts the strategic direction of the Group. In order to move about the market freely and unnoticed, he hides behind the cover of distributing Kilsgaard Eyewear and works as a sales rep for L.G.R. His Berlin-based showroom, Project 48, serves as the undercover com­ mand center for the Eyewear Triad. Allegedly, the number four in “48” hints at the number of months in which he plans to drop out and go completely off the grid. But in reality, it’s an identification code for those in the know.

T he Org a ni z er Alias: “Cl aas Witzel” Barton Perreir a »R ainey«

This man is in charge of building the Triad’s eyewear portfolio.

In order to be first in line to get his hands on new eyewear relea­ ses from leading brands, he has set up the “specs berlin” retail store as a cover in Berlin’s Mitte district. When the stream of funds for securing the Triad’s global takeover could not be hidden from the books of a single storefront anymore, Claas set up a second branch in the Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood.

T he M atchm a k er Alias: “Jörn Viegel ahn” Ørgreen »Easy Rider«

The Triad has vested all power for ruthlessly enforc­ ing its market interests in this man. Hiding in plain sight disguised as a sales rep for Ørgreen Optics, he can set foot into any of the leading optical stores in Northern Germany without raising suspicion. Jörn is the Triad’s communica­ tion hub. Nothing passes by his desk and he represents the only secure link for contacting the outside world.

htp.de

OWP Brillen GmbH, www.metropolitan-eyewear.de

www.facebook.com/metropolitan.eyewear

Collab of the Issue

Still photos: Raphael Schmitz Portraits: Gianni Pisano

S tr ada del Sole x Nadine S trit tmat ter

World-renowned Swiss model Nadine Strittmatter is joining forces with eyewear label Strada del Sole on the design of her first sunglasses collection. When beauty meets quality, the results are bound to be astonishing. EYEWEAR magazine got the inside scoop on our Collab of the Issue during a phone call with Nadine.

Collab of the Issue

Hello, Nadine. New York, Paris, Zurich… where in the world are you right now?

Currently I’m in Étretat, in Normandy, France.

Doesn’t sound like the setting for a runway show. What are you up to?

I finally have two days off again in a long while, because it’s a holiday in France.

You reside in Paris, but you were born in Switzerland. Where do you consider “home”?

I equally feel at home in Paris and in Switzerland.

In Switzerland, because I was raised there and feel “Swiss at heart”. And in Paris, since it’s the city for me, ever since I’ve started coming here when I was 17, and because most of my friends are here. Plus, most of my work in the fashion industry takes place here.

What’s the major appeal of your work as a model?

I like the people I get to work with and also the fact that you never surely know what’s next. On top of that, there is a great amount of freedom involved once you’re successful.

Are there any aspects that you find rather tedious?

Pretty much the exact same things. The advantage of the uncertain element is also the great downside. It’s really hard to plan ahead and you’re always standing by, always on call.

In your job you are constantly surrounded by stylists and dressed in the most up-to-date

couture and accessories. How does that influence your private tastes?

I think it affects my preference for clothing that tells a story, that is authentic. I like vintage pieces that have stood the test of time. I’m not a great fan of super trendy things, I rather look out for great quality. That’s also the case with the sunglasses collection I designed with Strada del Sole.

It’s highly influenced by vintage glasses from the 1960s.

Collab of the Issue

What attracted you to designing your own sunglasses? It seems a bit of a long shot for a model. Wouldn’t fashion be closer to home?

I’ve always had the problem of being unable to find a pair of sun­glasses that I truly liked. Something always bothered me about all the styles out there. This spawned the idea of creating a collection of my own. Sunglasses, in my opinion, are an even bigger statement than apparel. Even if someone wears an entirely classic dress style, a timeless pair of glasses makes a statement and elevates the whole look, accentuating the wearer’s personality. The first impression a person makes is im­portant. And sunglasses play a major part in that.

What is your connection to Strada del Sole? Is it your shared Swiss heritage?

Our common Swiss roots sure were a reason, but we also share a passion for quality. Strada del Sole represents hand-made eyewear with a unique story and that special something. I also really like the entire team behind the brand. It’s a very family-oriented atmosphere.

How is the collaboration implemented in practice?

During our design meetings I present my mood boards filled with in­spi­r ations. Then we’ll discuss which of these ideas can be realized.

Pascale, the designer at Strada del Sole, puts our collaborative ideas on paper. Then it’s time to produce the first proto-

types. Once they arrive, we sit down together again to adjust all the imperfections. I’m really happy about how well the first collection turned out and that it’s already available in stores and online.

In a few words, how would you describe your collaborative eyewear collection?

It’s definitely inspired by the vintage look of the 1960s and the rock icons of that era. We offer a wide selection of lenses to give customers the option to find their perfect match. I really think that colored lenses are really exciting in the sunglasses segment.

Which lens colorway is your personal favorite?

I really like the brown-yellow lenses in both models. Especially the way the world appears through them.

How many models are part of the collection?

There’s one women’s model and one unisex frame. Both are available in black with gray gradient lenses and in Havana

with brown gradient lenses. The women’s model has a shiny polish while the unisex frame is matted with a sand-blast finish. All of these handmade frames come with a unique leather case, made in Switzerland.

What were some of your inspirations behind the designs?

I love browsing through all the vintage stores in Paris, looking at old books and album covers.

All of that is inspiring to me. I like timeless things, whether it’s clothing, furniture, and also eyewear.

I’m really into designs with a certain edge, their own personality, but that can also be combined with other pieces.

Collab of the Issue

Does it feel rewarding to wear a pair of sunglasses that you have helped design, also carrying your own name?

Most definitely!

Do you already have some ideas for the next collection? Is there a timeline yet?

We are overflowing with ideas – prepare to be surprised!

And finally, are you already eyeing alternative careers after working as a model?

Right now the whole modeling thing is still going well. But I also like writing and photography a lot, as well as music and film. We’ll have to see where it all will take me.

With all the beautiful things you’re involved with, we’re not worried one bit. All the best for your future and thanks for the interview.

Collab of the Issue

NS001 The women’s model is playful, fun-oriented and bold, but still official and classic looking.

And most of all: highly wearable.

NS002 The unisex model offers a new take on a classic shape.

Goes with pretty much everything and everybody.

ic! berlin

G REEN

C O LLEC T I O N

Did you know that golf can boost your career?

According to a time-honored belief, networking on the golf course will help you earn more “green”.

For a quick climb up the social ladder, German label ic! berlin has created the perfect, golf-approved eyewear collection.

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

Product Insight

ic! berlin »U5 Alex«

Ic! berlin »X11 Krumme Lanke« ic! berlin »Raf S.«

The lens colorways “Photo Copper” and “Photo Orange” were specifically designed for the golf course with their photochromic enhancement of the contrast between white and green. This will keep your eyes on the ball during those long shots across the fairway, and your short game in check on intricate putts. And to accommodate for changing light conditions on long outings, the Trivex lenses will change their tint based on the intensity of UV-light.

www.faceaface-paris.com

new tech

R ay- B a n

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

» Denim Way fa r er«

The success story of denim jeans is without parallel in the fashion industry. No other fabric has taken the apparel world by storm like the “Serge de Nîmes,” which is French for “the fabric from the town of Nîmes”.

Many years after Levis Strauss introduced denim as workwear for gold miners in the U.S., the material enjoys a global following to this day.

Now the rugged material is finding its way into eyewear: Ray-Ban’s new Denim Wayfarer collection consists of frames crafted from laminated denim layers.

This marks the first denim frame constructed

entirely without supporting inlays such as metal. The result of two years of research and development, the Denim Wayfarer features nose pads coated with hypo-allergenic silicone. Compared to the original Wayfarer model, the frame rests on the wearer’s nose at a less inclined angle, and sits almost vertically. The unisex model is available in six colorways as the perfect accessory in any jeans lovers’ wardrobe. Just don’t wear with a “Canadian tuxedo,” a.k.a. denim jacket plus denim jeans.

By Ulrich Hartmann

Marc O’Polo — »506088« »506079«

Clothing Lef t: Paul & Joe Sister | Stole: Elisabetta Franchi Right: Coat: Closed | Top: Tibia | Skir t: Barbara Lohmann | Earrings: RIO by Melovely

Clothing Lef t: Vest: Cinque | Shir t: Dr ykorn for Beautiful People Right: Leather Dress: Closed | Shir t: Super trash | Necklaces: Vintage Etno Style | Clutch: Lille Mus by Melovely | Bootee: Gucci

LINDBERG — »0702« »8580«

Outfit: Elisabetta Franchi

LINDBERG — »8577«

M ay b a c h — » T h e B a r one s s I « » T h e P r im a donn a I «

Ho f f m a nn N a t u r a l Eyewear — »2197« Clothing Lef t: Coat & Shir t: Closed | Jeans Hotpants: Hudson | Bag : Elisabetta Franchi | Bracelet: Tashimani by Melovely | Overknee Boots: Rober to Cavalli Middle: Cardigan: Expresso | Jeans , Shir t & Bag : Closed | Bracelet: Tashimani by Melovely | Overknee Boots: Phillip Hardy Right: Jacket: Hugo Boss | Shir t: Packard

Clothing Lef t: Jacket: Cinque | Shir t: Hugo Boss | Bow Tie: Zara Right: Dress: Paul & Joe | Bag : Kur t Kölln by VanGraaf.com | Bracelet: Tashimani by Melovely | Shoes: Chi Mihara

Ø r g r een — » A r c ti c « »Zelda«

Clothing Lef t: Dress: Tibi | Stole: Vintage Style | Earrings: RIO by Melovely | Necklace: LeChatVIVI by Melovely | Shoes: Chi Mihara Right: Jacket: Dress: Paul & Joe | Bag : Kur t Kölln by VanGraaf.com | Bracelet: Tashimani by Melovely | Shoes: Chi Mihara

Ø r g r een — » Ste l l a P o l a r i s « »Zelda«

Clothing Lef t: Blouson & Jumpsuit: Paul & Joe Sister | Earrings: RIO by Melovely| Shoes: Chi Mihara Right: Jacket: Cinque | Pullover : Finshley & Harding by VanGraaf.com | Pants & Shoes: Hugo Boss

O l i v e r P eop l e s — » S h a e l ie « A l a in M i k l i — »A03013«

Coat: Super trash | Dress: Traffic People | Necklace: Xamanda by Melovely | Clutch: Lille Mus by Melovely

Miu Miu — »SMU51Q«

Cazal — »6010« »8020« »8016«

– Photographer: Ulrich Hartmann – ulrichhartmann .com Assistent: Patrick Jendrusch Hair & Make-Up: Lydia Castejon @ peppermintcircus .com Assistent | Cara-Lena Schmidt @ peppermintcircus .com St yling: Andrea Kadler @ andreakadler .de Fashion Film: Astrid Gleichmann Art Direction: Konstantinos Gkoumpetis Models: Jack y @ m4 | Anna Shoot @ m4 | Alan

Clothing lef t: Blouson: Closed | Shir t & Pants: Hugo Boss | Bow Tie: Zara Middle: Blazer : Closed | Jumpsuit: Paul & Joe Sister | Bag : Closed | Shoes: Chie Mihara Right: Jacket: Blaze by VanGraaf.com | Top: Traffic People | Skir t: Tibi | Shoes: Chi Mihara

RELEASE YOUR

GREATNESS. B E R L IN V IS IO N S IN C E 2006

Showlab: Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 49, 10178 Berlin, Germany www.whiteout-glare.com - info@whiteout-glare.com Opti München, Halle C4, Stand 212

Ph oto Awa r d

Michael Schindler for Robert La Roche

Ever since the inception of Robert La Roche Eyewear – founded in 1970 by the Vienna-based designer of the same name – photography has always been a priority.

The list of leading inter­national photographers who have contributed their images to campaigns for the Austrian label includes heavyweights such as Gerhard Heller, with major inspirations from the portrait photography of Man Ray and Henri Cartier-Bresson.

Drawing on this time-honored tradition, current brand manager Anthony Reid took an innovative approach in 2014: He enlisted San Francisco photographer Michael Schindler to shoot a series of expressive portraits in the old-school Wet Plate Collodion Process. Against the grain of instant – and sometimes instantly forgotten – digital methods, this process entails direct-to-metalplate positives in an almost extinct technique going back to the 1850s. Marked by an extremely shallow depth of field, the collodion process puts an almost surreal emphasis on the eyes of the person in the portrait.

The random blurs and scratches caused by the analog method lend a unique, one-of-a-kind look to each image.

Equally labor-intensive and technically difficult, this type of photo­­graphy perfectly embodies the brand values behind Robert la Roche: Quality, craftsmanship, attention to detail, and an avant-gardes edge. Because every image exists in the real world on a sturdy metal plate, the traditional approach to photography brings to life an emphasis on the individuality of portrait photo­graphy.

At Silmo tradeshow, a select few invitees were privy to the method in an invite-only Collodion photo shoot.

Once the images were captured, visitors had the chance to witness the wet plate positives being developed in the on-site darkroom.

On a product level, the images find their perfect match in the new “Black Plate” collection by designer Klaus Huber. Much like Schindler’s photographic method, the frames of the collection make prominent use of metal plates, incorporated into the temple insides by ways of sturdy rivets. With a focus on quality, the frames are all handmade from high-grade titanium and acetate in Japan.

We applaud the stylish campaign and intricate photographic process. This issue’s Photo Award is in a league of its own.

Ph oto Awa r d

E S P R I T. C O M / E Y E W E A R | E T 1 74 3 3 - 5 4 3 | C H A R M A N T G M B H E U R O P E C H A R M A N T. D E

EYEWEAR FALL/WINTER 2014

By Dirk Schumacher

O n e DAY i n B a n gko k L ocation Bangkok, Thail and

Time ZONE UTC + 7 hrs

CO O R D I N AT E S 13.7279° N 100.5241° E

FRA – BKK – FRA in 72h My third photo shoot for EYEWEAR magazine took me all the way to Bangkok, Thailand.

This time the kicker was: I only had 72 hours until my return flight to organize a shoot in the bustling Asian metropolis. With prearrangements already made ahead of time in Europe, we only had one day for on-site production. Which is actually a shame, since Bangkok’s people, colors, landscape, culture and food are really incredible.

But despite the tight deadline, it was a very fun and intense trip – or shall I say “dip” – into another world. Only four days after hopping on a plane I was already back at my desk tinkering with the images on the screen, still buzzing with impressions and emotions from my trip.

“One Day in Bangkok”

Photos: Dirk Schumacher / dirkschumacher.com H&M: PK Makeup Artist Styling: Janina Cüpper @ Optix Agency Models: Zura u. Chonlada @ Apple Models Bangkok Post Production: Daniel Städtler

193

P op u lation 8.249.000

M un i c E y e W e a r — »875-1« » 876 -1 «

Clothing : Pants & Blouses: Uniqlo

Dress & Necklace: COS

Cazal — »6011«

Cape , Skir t & Rings: COS

i - s pa x — » M aya «

Moscot — »Robin« »Hyman«

Pants & Blouses: Uniqlo / Necklace: COS / Bracelet & Hairband: Private

Pa u l F r a n k — » g l o r i a eu p h o r i a « » ete r n a l l y u s «

Top & Skir t: COS / Necklace: Private

H a mbu r g E y ewe a r — »W i l m a «

THE VISION

Photo: Stefan Dongus

Illustration: Sebastian Wegerhoff

L u n e t t e s K o ll e k t i o n ’ s Uta Geyer

What was the most bizarre dream you’ve ever had?

During my vacation, I read Donna Tart’s latest novel, The Goldfinch. In my dreams, I would fuse with the main protagonist and go on adventures featuring street kids in empty construction ruins in Las Vegas. I also got to meet other characters from the book – it was quite bizarre!

What was your worst nightmare?

As a kid, I’ve always had this recurring nightmare of falling into an infinite dark hole. I could really feel it, down to my stomach. Just like des­cending from the 100th floor in an elevator. At some point, the dreams stopped, but I still remember that feeling in my tummy.

Many people have a certain recurring dream. How about you?

I often dream of being inside a car during a wild chase.

The scenery in this dream is a lot like action movies and it can get pretty fast and dangerous, but I never become harmed. It seems as if I have multi­ple lives in this dream.

If you were a color, which would it be?

What, only one? Okay, I would go with emerald green.

What is your childhood dream? What did you imagine your life to be like?

Hmmh... Honestly, I never had any concrete ideas. I think that in terms of my job, I’ve always had the idea to be independent in some way. And I imagined taking frequent trips by plane somewhere in the world to negotiate with business partners.

What’s your desktop background right now?

My desktop shows a leopard couple seated next to each other.

But my back­grounds change often. For a long time, I’ve had the Hong Kong skyline up there. I was really impressed by the city and wanted to take some of this incredible energy home with me. Before that, it was an illustration of some shoes... By the way, I’ve never had a pair of glasses as my desktop background.

You’re internationally known with your Berlin-based brand. What are your career dreams?

I would really like to open up a store in another country and live there for some time.

203

Distinctly Italian style, precise craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail.

The story of legendary eyewear manufacturer Lozza goes all the way back to 1878.

Now De Rigo is reviving the icon in a new interpretation with the Lozza Sartoriale project. The timing could not be any better, since customers are increasingly de­ manding original and individual styles. The chance of owning a customized prod­ uct, perfectly suited to the wearer’s face in terms of size, shape, materials and col­ orways is right on trend. And to cater to these customer demands, Lozza decided to start offering customized eyewear. Drawing on proven craftsman techniques paired with digital technology, opticians are able to create an entirely customerspecific product.

The Lozza Sartoriale project offers a wide range of combinations in terms of colors, shapes, materials, and sizes. All spare parts are shipped to the opticians in a custom kit, which can be assembled with the interactive product configuration tool. Powered by digital technology, opticians can walk customers through every step of the way towards their ideal pair of glasses.

Lozza Sartoriale »Ottica Zoldan«

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

Lozza Sartoriale »Anna Zandanel«

Lozza Sartoriale » L au r a M i l i ta n o «

–UNDER THE–

GOLDEN SUN M ay b a c h »T h e P r i m a d o n n a II « A passionate love letter to feminine design with an extravagant edge. Curvy shapes combined with horn and gold are a prima donna’s best friend.

Andy Wo l f »Wo nd e r« Unconventional designs, playful use of colors and material textures, paired with exploration of new silhouettes: Welcome to the world of Andy Wolf. The “Wonder” model adds some glamor to the mix with rhinestones around the edges.

Ø r gr e e n » P u s s y Galo r e« Named after one of the toughest Bond girls – at least when it came to 007’s amorous advances – Ørgreen’s spring model features soft and rounded shapes. The frame’s matted cream color and glittering gold on top bar and temples adds to her charms.

C a lv i n K l e i n »12 0 2 S « The perfect glasses for a white wedding.

Shown here in rosé with subtle gold details.

Sunglasses by Cazal are marked by sharp lines, strong contrasts and voluptuous silhouettes. The “8016” model continues the tradition, coming on strong in this white-gold grain colorway.

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

C a z a l » 8 016 «

Fleye »Uni«

In this design, the clip-on connects to the bridge. Beautifully simple, simply beautiful.

M o s c o t » St e v i e «

For making a sharp impression, this classic model in black and silver is a safe bet.

A n d e r n e »Ta k e A B o w«

Two glasses in one: Say goodbye to switching glasses and carrying two eyewear cases around.

B a r t o n P e r r e i r a » Laut n e r «

Equal parts acetate and metal frames, this model offers upscale quality down to the smallest detail.

JF Rey »2627«

Eyes wide open: Colorful lenses are officially back!

Markus Neuhof

It’s safe to say that Markus Neuhof covers a lot of ground in the eye­ wear industry. Quite literally. On a mission for brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, and GLCO, his travels take him from the Austrian mountains all the way to Scandinavia. Along the way, the list of opticians he deals with is just as elaborate as his brand portfolio. But does all this traveling seem like a chore for Markus and his reclusive, rural lifestyle?

Just the opposite. He needs the peace and quiet of the countryside just as much as the hustle and bustle of metropolitan cities. It’s how he keeps his balance.

208

Photos: Stefan Dongus

Striking the balance bet ween tradition and modernit y

In dus t ry Insigh t

Hello Markus, how many kilometers do you cover in your car every year on average?

This year, I’ll probably be logging around 75,000 kilometers.

ween Heinsberg and the great, wide world out there?

No, I wouldn’t call it strenuous. But I will say that I get a certain restless­ness whenever I spend too much time in one place.

Wow! And how much do you add with airplane and train travel?

With five collection suitcases, plus my private luggage, these modes of transportation hardly make sense. I take my car all the way to Southern Sweden. Further up North, I’m forced to take a plane.

You’re traveling around Germany, Austria, and all over Scandinavia. How do you carve out time to spend at home?

Around all the international tradeshow dates, not that much. But I’m really striving to achieve a healthy balance between traveling for my job and resting at home.

Where do you call home these days?

I live in the countryside in the town of Heinsberg on the Western edge of Germany, right next to the Dutch border.

Not exactly an urban metropolis. Wouldn’t you be better off living in Cologne or Berlin?

I actually get that question quite a lot. But although I love – and actually need – the time spent in these cities, my roots are in the countryside.

That’s where my home is, and also my family and quiet place for pro­cessing my travel experiences. But I could never live without regular impressions from city life. Although my neighbors might regard me as some sort of alien because of that.

But isn’t it strenuous, always being torn bet­

What are some of the private takeaways from your travels?

This question brings a quote to mind: “The world is a book. People who never travel only see the first page.” Most of the time it’s the small details by the roadside that make a permanent impression. I’m really grateful for the people, impressions, and moments I’ve been able to experience through my travels.

That sounds rather optimistic. But there has to be some downside to traveling that bothers you…

My trips tend to be on rather tight timelines due to the large area I cover. In between appointments, I’m always busy responding to missed calls and new emails, which hardly leaves any room to breathe.

What are your favorite cities?

Berlin, New York, Los Angeles, Vienna, Copenhagen.

You carry quiet the portfolio in your suitcases with brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, and GLCO. How did you end up with these labels?

Throughout my 13 years working as a sales rep, I’ve had the fortune and privilege of meeting some great people who believed in me. So to this day, I’ve never had to write a job application.

Everything happened through friendly relationships.

209

In dus t ry Insigh t

A life between tradition and modernity

210

– Germany and Austria are highly homogenous in their purchases, while the Scandinavians tend to like it a bit l arger, brighter, and bolder.

–

What’s the special something about your brands, what are some catchwords?

Dita Traditional craftsmanship, superb execution, exclusiveness.

Thom Browne Uncompromising, non-conformist, high fashion.

GLCO Young, finger on the pulse, tradition meets urbanity.

How many customers are on your contact list?

Currently 113.

How is this number trending?

It’s growing significantly, while I maintain a focus on the quality rather than the quantity of our partners. When it comes to selecting new customers, I try to make sure that my collections will work out in the stores in the long run. That’s the only foundation for a partnership to grow and prove successful for all involved.

211

What do you look out for when it comes to choo­ And which trend will lose significance? sing the right opticians for your brands?

“Labels” with blatant branding.

It’s extremely important for me to feel their passion and enthusiasm What are your three permanent road trip com­ during my visits with prospective retailers. Witpanions? hout these ingredients, a collection can never gain iPhone, iPad, MacBook. long-term traction at a store. The opticians need to be enamored with my glasses and fired up about What’s your wish for the future? presenting them to their customers.

Staying healthy is really the most important thing.

Your distribution area spans from Vienna all the way to the North Cape. The differences in Thank you Markus, and safe travels. purchase behaviors must be significant.

Actually, the differences within my region are quiet slight. Germany and Austria are highly homogenous in their purchases, while the Scandinavians tend to like it a bit larger, brighter, and bolder.

Are you also involved in logistics, making sure your customers receive their shipments? And how about marketing and PR? I’m really grateful for not having to deal with these aspects. The companies I work with cover all that.

What kind of styles will be setting the tone in 2015?

I think that the heritage trend will grow stronger. Customers want to know more about the background and DNA of the companies and products they’re supporting.

212

EGA

FER

FÜCH

Photo: R aphael Schmitz

S as

— Pa p e r S t y l e — From Nature with Love Everybody knows that eyewear can cost a lot of “paper”, meaning money, in some cases. But instead of making paper with eyewear, making eyewear from paper is pretty much unheard of in our industry.

Until now, that is. Austrian designers Werner Oberauch and Fabio Gasparini from the Tyrol region spent the last three years bringing their paper-based PaperStyle eyewear frames to market. The under­ lying process is based on 20 sheets of paper, fused together without adding additional fabrics into a robust, yet pliable raw material.

For a tight fit, the layers of paper are fused under vacuum conditions with epoxy resin. The final finish is supplied by a special sealant for protection against water and dirt, while every pair of glasses is a handmade, one-of-a-kind original. And did we mention that the frames are made from renewable resources? Amazing!

Reiz — »T y p e 1 « »T y p e 4 «

214

COMPOUND EYES

By Joseph Ford

215

M e tr o p o l i t a n — »8224« »8023«

Pa p e r s t y l e — »Rösa.10«

Woodone — »Gunna 07« » Art u s 0 7 «

Ro l f S p e c tac l e s — » Fa r i n a 2 3 « » Co n t i n e n ta l 0 8 «

Photos: Joseph Ford – josephford.net Styling : Cathy Sinker – cathysinker.co.uk Hair & Make-Up: Susa Piiroinen – susamakeupar tist .com Models: Olivier @ Nevs | Sami @ D1 Animals: Animals Work Retouching : Rosine Hudber t Lighting and production: Direct Photographic Assistants: Olivier Barjolle , Emil Cohen , Charles Woodward

Blac — » S a n n a B u rg u n d y «

Photos: Michael Knopke Model: Luna Morgenstern

E d i t o r ’ s C h o i ce

Leave it to the team at MYKITA to put together a sexy collection. Simple blackand-white style, no superfluous, over-thetop details: MYKITA knows what it’s all about. Our current favorite is the “Giles” model from the Decades Sun Collection.

These upscale glasses are crafted from ultra-light stainless steel and matted acetate, equipped with lenses in a slightly golden hue. The Matte Nassau colorway just hits the nail on the head! Fly high, you beauti­ful butterfly!

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Photo: Ulrich Hartmann, P. 178-188

Shades: Marc O’Polo »506088«

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