Page 1

CRUMBS BATH & BRISTOL NO.52 SUMMER 2016

A little slice of foodie heaven

gscoolest Mixed blessin summer's cocktails

What do you call an unemployed goat? Billy Idol!

52

NO. summer 2016

School’s

t O U Family-friendly

Darling dishes!

6

fodder for he t breloakng

tempting recipes

Indi an summer . CR UM

We helpte celebrBaE!! her M

WWW

A scrumptious Supper Club with Romy Gill

Goat The

From the region’s best COOKS

BS M A

THAT

G. CO M

rocked

Restaurants really hate you, & here’s why

£3 where sold

THE GOAT BOOK

Hey, no-shows

milk! meat! Cheese!

Why we love living in a

Nanny state


DOING IT FOR THE KIDS THE WORD ‘GOAT’ has been cropping up a lot more on restaurant menus in recent years – although, yes, it’s usually followed by ‘cheese’ or ‘curd’. We’re big fans of the tangy, salty flavours and light, creamy texture that makes goat dairy buddy up so well with sweet and earthy ingredients – it’s always seen hanging out on plates with beetroot, for example. But as the market for these products grows, and more goats are farmed for their milk, more ‘useless’ male kids are, in turn, slaughtered at birth (the figures stand in the tens of thousands each year). Cottoning on to this, farmers have slowly begun rearing these billies for meat – thus reducing waste, popularising the ingredient in the UK, and restoring something of an ethical balance. Kid isn’t only a responsible choice, though – it’s a downright tasty and nutritious one, too. It has a subtle lamb-like flavour, and it’s mega lean and choc-full of health benefits. If you’ve not yet given goat a go, now’s the time – whack it on your summer barbecue and see what you’ve been missing, or try our uber-low-maintenance recipe from Lido’s Freddy B. It’s not solely about kids of the goat variety this issue, though; we’ve compiled a list of great foodie spots to visit with the human young ’uns during the school break, too. We’ve also been finding out about the current biggest threat to our indie restaurants, and why holiday food is so hard to recreate on these shores. Enjoy!

Jessica Carter, Editor jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk

Crumbs is now an app! You can read all editions of Crumbs – Bath+Bristol, Cotswolds and Devon – on iTunes or Android. Scan the QR codes opposite, search ‘Crumbs’ or go to crumbsmag.com APPLE

crumbsmag.com

3

ANDROID


Table of Contents

B ATH & BRISTOL

NO. 52 SUMMER 2016

crumbsmag.com EDITOR

JESSICA CARTER jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk DEVELOPMENT EDITOR

MATT BIELBY matt.bielby@mediaclash.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS

MARK TAYLOR ART DIRECTOR

TREVOR GILHAM ADVERTISING MANAGER

KYLE PHILLIPS kyle.phillips@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER

NEIL SNOW neil.snow@mediaclash.co.uk ACCOUNT MANAGER

LORENA CUSSENS lorena.cussens@mediaclash.co.uk PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

SARAH KINGSTON sarah.kingston@mediaclash.co.uk DEPUTY PRODUCTION MANAGER/ PRODUCTION DESIGNER

CHRISTINA WEST christina.west@mediaclash.co.uk CHIEF EXECUTIVE

JANE INGHAM jane.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk GREG INGHAM greg.ingham@mediaclash.co.uk

large version

MediaClash, Circus Mews House, Circus Mews, Bath BA1 2PW; 01225 475800 www.mediaclash.co.uk © All rights reserved. May not be reproduced without written permission of MediaClash. MediaClash reserves the right to reject any material and to edit such prior to publication. Opinions are those of individual authors. Printed on paper from a well-managed source. Inks are vegetable-based; printer is certified to ISO 14001 environmental management. This month we chowed down at Glastonbury Festival (Anna Mae’s mac ’n’ cheese was a particular highlight), as well as Grillstock, where we did a judge on the burger round. It’s been a tough old month...

crumbsmag.com

08 HERO INGREDIENT Why goat floats our boat 12 OPENINGS So much to eat, so little time 19 TRIO We all scream for ice cream

CHEF!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE large version

STARTERS

KITCHEN ARMOURY

Amazing recipes from the region’s top kitchens

39 SUPPER CLUB Romy Gill treats us to a fiery feast at her dinner party 44 WANT LIST Middle Eastern-inspired gear

26 Style Farm Jacob’s Ladder, by Daniel Maudsley 28 Smoked scallop raviolo, by Malachai Moore 31 Summer cocktails 33 SWEET CHILD OF WINE Chris Staines makes an Asian salad to match a summer rosé

MAINS 51 MED GOOD The secrets behind authentic Mediterranean food, and where to find it 56 FLAKY FOODIES How indecisive diners are crippling our restaurants 59 FAMILY BUSINESS Child-friendly joints to visit with the family over the summer jollies

ADDITIONAL RECIPES

10 Kid kleftiko, by Freddy Bird 21 Spanakopita, by Alexandra Stratou 39 Goat curry, by Romy Gill and Kim Somauroo

5

AFTERS

New & notable restaurants, cafés, bars 67 Tincan Coffee Co. 68 Rosemarino 71 Brew 72 Masons Restaurant

PLUS 74 LITTLE BLACK BOOK Barbora Stiess shares her fave local shops


INNOVATIONS, REVELATIONS AND TASTY AMUSE-BOUCHES

Say

cheese

crumbsmag.com

7

SEEN THE NEW Bristol cheesemonger that’s popped up on St Nicholas Street yet? It was founded by Rosie Morgan, who’s been working in the cheese biz since she was at school and started her own venture two years ago. With her markets and pop-up shops having gone down a right old storm, Rosie decided to bite the bullet and get some proper digs of her very own. The cheeses here are all from the UK – predominantly the West Country – and there are wines to match too (on tap, all coming by the litre or half-litre), as well as chutneys and condiments from Bishopston Preserves. Hooray for another excuse to overindulge in our favourite form of dairy… ✱ bristol-cheese.co.uk


GOat Want to hang out with a farmyard animal? Goats are even more fun than pigs: intelligent, playful and cheeky. They’re also versatile. (Milk! Cheese! Meat!) Little wonder, really, that we’re increasingly living in a nanny state…

8

crumbsmag.com

crumbsmag.com


S T A R T E R S

Hero Ingredients

SOMETIMES, WITH NOBODY being quite sure why, a food – or an animal – suddenly has its time in the sun. So it is with goat (the beast) and goat (the meat), not to mention goat (the provider of milk and cheese). Charming, entertaining, disturbingly devilish – those hooves! Those horns! Those eyes! – and not to be trusted, they’re much livelier and less herd-inclined than the sheep they so closely resemble, and so have become the stars of numerous memes and YouTube clips of late. But there’s more to goats than funny antics and an irrepressible attitude. They’re also one of our earliest domesticated animals, as well as the world’s most widely eaten meat. That they’ve been out of favour in the West since, like, forever – blame ignorance as much as anything – now seems almost criminal as their three-pronged resurgence continues. Certainly, more and more of us are now making use of all the young males – by eating them – that had until recently been left behind by the booming goat milk industry. Before their joys, though, a bit of history. Turns out we’ve been keeping goats since at least the Neolithic Era – think 10,000 years ago, give or take, making them one of the oldest domesticated animals on earth– with your basic farmyard beast a tamed offspring of the Bezoar ibex of Russia, Afghanistan and Turkey. Early farmers loved goats for their milk, their skins, their wool (mohair, cashmere et al), their meat, their intestines (‘catgut’), their bones and horns – for tools – and even their dung, for burning. Like cows, deer and sheep, goats are ruminants, with four parts to their stomachs. Unlike those fellas though, they’re not grazers but browsers – bright, hardy, highly curious, and willing to have a go at eating virtually

crumbsmag.com

anything, from cardboard to clothing. As ‘eating machines’, they’ve long been used to clear unwanted vegetation, though this is not without its risks – witness this year’s attempt to empty a park in Oregon of invasive English ivy by the power of goat, which inevitably went wrong when the 75 beasts deployed turned their attentions to the ‘good’ stuff too. Because of their brilliant coordination, apparent fearlessness and great sense of balance, goats are notorious climbers, great on cliff faces and trees, and notoriously difficult to keep in their pens – which accounts, in part, for their troublesome reputation. We say ‘in part’, because some of this also comes down to the frankly Satanic way they look... You see, though goats are by no means the only animals with horizontal, slit-shaped pupils – have you checked out a horse lately? – goat eyes are generally pale, making them much more noticeable. Combine this creepiness with their naturally ‘naughty’ natures and their place in mythology is assured: randy man-goat Pan chasing after nymphs; the Medieval depiction of Satan, with a goat-face and horns; and associations with the occult ranging from the very shape of the inverted pentagram to the conniving, perfectionist goatee beards inevitably sported by the malevolent, magical or mysterious, from Doctor Who’s The Master to Marvel’s Dr Strange. YES YES YES, you say, but what about the meat? Well, it’s kinda delicious. Kid isn’t that far from spring lamb, and you can cook it similarly – though some liken the mild, sweet, tender flavour more to veal, beef or even venison. It’s great curried, minced, stewed, or

9

barbecued – but, thanks to its lower fat content, prefers to be cooked rather lower and slower than its bleating cousins. Mint and rosemary go perfectly with it, as do marjoram, oregano, or strong, spicy flavours. Chops and steaks are great marinated and baked, while West Indian or Middle Eastern recipes are a joy. And the health benefits are obvious: goat’s lower in calories than even chicken, and high in potassium and iron. Considered something of an aphrodisiac in some quarters – understandable, as a rut-happy billy is once seen, never forgotten – a horninducing goat soup called ‘mannish water’ is traditionally served to many a Jamaican groom on his wedding night. The milk? Well, that’s good too. The fat globules are small and wellemulsified, meaning it doesn’t separate like raw cow milk, and make it, for many, easier to digest. Though some warn against its suitability for babies – blame the insufficient nutrition (B12, especially, is missing), excessive protein concentration, and bacterial risk of something unpasteurised, apparently – proponents of the overall health benefits are vocal and convincing. The cheese? Well, the French, especially, love making this stuff – soft, young cheeses you can use in desserts or spread like pâté, and hard, tangy ones that can be sliced like Cheddar or grated like parmesan. Not only are they delicious – and only occasionally ‘farmyardy’ – but they’re similarly easy to digest. Last year was the Chinese Year of the Goat, and it coincided with a remarkable upsurge of interest in every aspect of these charming, adorable beasts. Long may it continue and – in particular – long may goat meat make continued inroads into our still-tooconservative diets…


R E C I P E

Hero Ingredients

Never cooked with goat before? Fear not: this is Freddy Bird, head chef at Bristol’s Lido, and he’s come up with a mega easy, totes delicious recipe for you, to make the most of this mighty meat… I LOVE KID meat. Old goat meat can be a bit gamey and an acquired taste for some, but kid goes down a storm with everyone; its flavour is like delicate lamb and its crispy skin is impossible to resist. This recipe is super simple and the potatoes take on the most incredible flavour when slow-cooked in the wine and kid juices. This dish relies on great ingredients, so hunt out the very best kid, and do your best to get your hands on wild oregano (fresh or dried) – it really will make the world of difference. This is the perfect dish to throw together quickly, chuck in the oven and forget about for a few hours – and there’s barely any washing up!

KID KLEFTICO (SERVES 6 GREEDY PEOPLE) INGREDIENTS

1 kid shoulder, broken down in to chunks with the bones left in 2 heads of new-season garlic, skin left on and broken into cloves a big handful of wild or dried oregano, on the stem 8-12 roasting potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks 150-200ml extra virgin olive oil 2 lemons, juice only ½ bottle white wine (I used Vinho Verde)

METHOD

– Ask your butcher to cut the kid into fist-sized chunks on the bone. – Preheat the oven to 160C/315F/ gas mark 2. – Brown the meat all over in a frying pan and then simply throw all the ingredients (apart from the wine and lemons) into a bowl, season with salt and pepper and toss together. – Line a large roasting pan with parchment paper to try and catch as much of the juices as possible, and tip all the ingredients in. Pour over the wine and squeeze in all the juice from the lemons. Cover tightly with more paper.  

10

– Cook in the oven for around 2½ hours until the meat is tender and just falling away from the bone. – Serve in the centre of the table in the roasting pan and provide plenty of napkins. It really couldn’t be more delicious, or simple… ✱ LIDO, Oakfield Place, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2BJ; 0117 332 3970; lidobristol.com

crumbsmag.com


S T A R T E R S

BEDDING IN

Plans are coming together for a brand new luxury boutique hotel in Bath. No. 15 Great Pulteney is housed in a listed townhouse in the city centre, on, well, Great Pulteney Street. Duh. As well as having 31 bedrooms and a spa, it will also (more importantly, as far as we’re concerned) incorporate a snazzy cocktail bar and private dining room. ✱ no15greatpulteney.co.uk

BANK ON IT

The first non-London venture from the Ivy group will be opening in Bristol this summer, and will come in the form of The Ivy Clifton Brasserie. Fancy, hey? Teams have been busy since April transforming the former NatWest bank into a brasserie-style gaff that has all the taste and style of the Ivy brand, but is relaxed enough for all-day, drop-in dining. Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, the restaurant will also have a cocktail bar, and plans to open its doors at the very start of August. ✱ theivycliftonbrasserie.com

SECOND HELPINGS

Former Bristol Caribbean joint Plantation has been taken over by the Turtle Bay group, which has decided to open a second Turtle Bay restaurant in the city. There’s room for 160 diners and drinkers inside the new venue, which is decked out in the same colourful vein as its sibling on the waterfront. This new, rumserving, chicken-jerking joint is open now! ✱ turtlebay.co.uk

12

crumbsmag.com


GET FIZZICAL

There’s a new Prosecco bar opening in Bristol – and we have Italian brand Scavi & Ray to thank. As well as offering bubbles, the bar – which is located at The Mall at Cribbs Causeway – will also be serving a range of bespoke sparkling cocktails, alongside artisanal foods, sweet treats and even a blend of Scavi & Ray’s own coffee. ✱ scavi-ray.com

PI SHOP

It’s official; the new pizzeria from the team behind Casamia is to open its doors on 21 July. Harking back to Casamia’s roots as an Italian trattoria, the casual new restaurant will serve classic pizzas – we’re talking the likes of Hawaiian and meat feasts here – in the Sanchez style, meaning we can expect imagination, great quality and a sense of Bristolian humour. Ingredients, obvs, come from the team’s top local suppliers, and there will be plenty of Bristol personality in the list of beers, wines, cocktails and coffees, too. You’ll find the new gaff alongside Casamia at The General. ✱ sanchez-brothers.co.uk

LITTLE ITALY

Restaurant group Polpo has announced it’s to open a brand new branch on Whiteladies Road in Bris. The new Italian gaff, which will sit next to Ruby & White, will model itself on the classic backstreet bars of Venice, and serve a variety of small plates – including pizzettes, breads, meats, fish, and salads – as well as Italian wines and cocktails (think Spritzs, Negronis and Bellinis). The restaurant will be unlocking its doors in August, and from then on will be open until late every day of the week. ✱ polpo.co.uk

WHERE THERE’S WILL...

A new Redland gaff, Wilson’s, has opened on Chandos Road. Founded by the former London-dwelling Jan Ostle and wife Mary, the cosy little restaurant is Scandi in its simple style, with white walls, rustic wood tables and naked, low-hanging bulbs. The well-considered menu is just as concise and stylish, offering a handful of weekly changing dishes, made from ingredients that have been sourced locally or homegrown, while the wine list focuses on organic, biodynamic varieties. ✱wilsonsrestaurant.co.uk

In the diary...

3

Casamia Summer Guest Chef Night Matt Gillan joins Peter and the Casamia team in the kitchen, for one night only, to cook up a very special menu – tickets are £98 and can be booked at the restaurant

5-6

Sausage and Cider Festival Top-quality cider + artisan sausages + live music = a right good weekend, no? Tickets for this event at The Old Passenger Shed are £6 in advance or £8 on the door (if there are any left, of course!); sausageandciderfestival.co.uk

Aug

Aug

crumbsmag.com

@chequersbath shows off its tasting menu with this beaut

13

@theponyandtrap makes the most of elderflower with fresh oysters


S STTA A RRT E T RS E R S

New Kid kid on on the the Block block New So, Lisa, let’s start with a foodie memory from your childhood. My grandmother was the queen of Welsh cakes and blancmange, and while the blancmange was setting and Welsh cakes cooling, I remember my grandfather would fall sleep while my grandmother and I would sneak to the outhouse and eat choc-ices. Was your grandmother a bit of a foodie inspiration for you, then? Definitely; the way she made everything look so simple, and also soothing and relaxing, really inspired me. She was, and will always remain, an idol to me. Been cooking long? Yes, I started at a very young age. My first experience of a professional kitchen was when I was 14 years old, peeling potatoes in a local pub. How would you describe your style of cooking?  I’d say rustic, yet quaint.   What attracted you to The Garden?  Phil Carey, head chef at our sister restaurant in Chippenham, has created a menu that’s very ‘me’. Also, the staff are excellent.  And how have you approached this menu?  With great ease! I am looking forward to working with it, and am excited to create the daily specials. 

HELLO, PETAL This right here is Lisa Wheeler, acting head chef at the brand new Garden over in Trowbridge

What do you hope to achieve at the new restaurant? The only thing I can assure everyone of is that I will try and make each dining experience with us at The Garden a superior one, in the hope of many returns visits. Which other local restaurants do you like to eat in, then?  Oh, there are so many! I suppose there’s the Tollgate Inn, The Mill at Rode, The Muddy Duck, The Grapes and Cinnamon Lounge – but they’re just some of my favourites.

14

What, for you, makes the local foodie scene so great? The sheer variety in the local area means there’ll almost certainly be an eatery to suit all moods and palates. What's your favourite ingredient at the moment?  The humble British strawberry: it’s a truly sensational delight, and will definitely be seen on the dessert menu at The Garden this summer. Do you grow anything yourself?  Yes – my patch consists of sage, rosemary, parsley, chives, mint, gooseberries, strawberries, plums and greengages. Next door has a lovely cooking apple tree, which I have been permitted access to, as well! What kind of meals do you cook at home?  I’m a very homely cook; it varies from the classic bangers and mash to the fun chicken cordon bleu. I’m a keen baker too, so there is usually something sweet on the go as well.  What and where was the best meal you’ve eaten?  I had a superb meal at The Tollgate inn for Valentine’s Day, of creamed cabbage and stuffed chicken – it was simple and divine. Then I finished off with a gorgeous trio of puddings – crème brûlée, rich chocolate torte and frozen berry parfait. Top 5-a-day?  Peas, broccoli, mushrooms, apples and strawberries are currently what I’m enjoying the most.  Foodie heroes?  Nigella Lawson, for championing homely cooking; Tom Kerridge, for his astonishing  pub grub; Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, for his love of fresh, homegrown produce; and Mary Berry, for her outstanding knowledge and skills in baking. ✱ thegardenuk.co.uk

crumbsmag.com crumbsmag.com


S T A R T E R S

Ask your Wine Merchant Been here a fair while, haven’t you? Yes, I have – 25 years. What kinds of people do you get in the shop, then? All sorts; we never know if the next customer wants a £5 Chilean Merlot or £500 Chateau Lafite! And what do you need to know to be able to make recommendations for them? We can usually match the customer to a great wine with just a few questions: when are you drinking it?; with what food?; what do you normally enjoy?; how much would you like to spend? Are there any wines that are particularly popular right now? Provence rosé, Malbec, Prosecco… The interest in Sauvignon Blanc is continuing to grow at a fast pace, too.

ON THE WESTERN FRONT Oh, hey, Alan Nordberg. Aren’t you the manager at Great Western Wine in Bath?

This could be you! Contact us at: jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk

We’re hoping to squeeze in plenty of barbecues this summer: but what should we buy to drink at them, do you think? Southern Italy offers terrific value and quality red for barbecues: they have a nice weight to them, are tasty, and you get a lot for your money. I’d recommend our Boheme Primitivo from Puglia (£6.95), then zingy whites and rosés to refresh and pair with salads and fish – our Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (£10.75) is terrific. What’s the best bargain you have at the shop right now? Portugal offers incredible bang for your buck at the moment: our Artolas red and white (both £7.50) are crackers at an everyday quaffing price. And your fave wine to splurge on? Classics like Bordeaux and Burgundy are always popular, but, personally, I’d have to go New World: the Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir (£19.95) from Australia’s Mornington Peninsula is sublime.

16

Have you had anything new and exciting come in recently? Yes! Just in time for the Olympics, the Pizzato wines from Brazil are v ery good. We’ve listed about 100 new wines this year – but equally exciting is our portfolio of 400 new small-batch spirits, which we’re launching this month and includes over 50 gins. What makes the shop special, do you think? Unfussy advice to suit any budget and requirement, offered by people who know and love wine. Then, over 1,000 of the world’s best wines and small-batch spirits. And the free tasting counter. And case discounts… What do you think makes a great wine merchant? Sourcing the best, and finding wines that stand out in a very competitive sector – then presenting them in everyday language at a sensible price. Also, listening to customers and having fun; wine shouldn’t be taken too seriously – you need to enjoy the ride! Any local restaurants or bars that you think have particularly good wine lists? Allium Brasserie, The Mint Room, The Firehouse, Olive Tree, The Marlborough Tavern and Bath Priory. And what about food: where do you like to eat? The Hop Pole, Victoria Bar & Kitchen, and The Scallop Shell. Finally, what’s your favourite dish to cook at home, and what wine do you have it with?  Roast chicken with Les Mougeottes Chardonnay (£9.95); it’s a lovely Burgundy-a-like wine that makes a perfect match. ✱ greatwesternwine.co.uk

crumbsmag.com


Top Lane, Whitley, Wiltshire SN12 8QX 01225 704966 T f @peartreewhitley

www.peartreewhitley.co.uk


We are a friendly, family owned inn offering hearty home cooked food, in a small country village setting. Whether you are local or travelling from further afield, you are guaranteed a warm welcome. PUB • RESTAURANT • FUNCTION ROOM • ACCOMMODATION

FAMILY OFFER CHILDRENS MENU

LARKHALL SAUSAGE WITH MASH, MINI YORKY & GRAVY SWEET POTATO FINGERS WITH HUMOUS & HALLOUMI KATSU CRISPY CHICKEN WITH COCONUT RICE AND SATAY SAUCE FRESH CORNISH FISH & CHIPS WITH GARDEN PEAS PASTA WITH TOMATO SAUCE, PESTO & PARMESAN ADULT MENU

SEARED BAVETTE STEAK WITH GARLIC FRIES & WILD LEAVES CRISPY PORK PANANG WITH COCONUT RICE & ASIAN SLAW HALLOUMI COCONUT MADRAS WITH BASMATI RICE, YOGHURT SLAW & POPPODUM ALE BATTERED LINE CAUGHT HAKE WITH PROPER CHIPS, PEA PUREÈ & TARTAR OR GO VEGGIE WITH HOMEWOOD HALLOUMI FINGERS.

BOOK NOW

Great British Supper Tuesday 9th August

FROM 5PM - 6:30PM

KIDS EAT FOR FREE WHEN ACCOMPANIED WITH AN ADULT, TUESDAY TO SATURDAY

(ONE CHILD PER ADULT)

£15 PER ADULT WITH A FREE GLASS OF SELECTED WINE.

PLEASE CONTACT US FOR ANY SPECIFIC DIETARY REQUESTS

N O .1 B EAUFORT W EST , B ATH BA1 6QB WWW . THEBEAUFORTINBATH . COM T EL . 01225 422 033

Tunley Road, Tunley BA2 0EB

01761 470408

Email: info@kingwilliaminn.co.uk Join us on Facebook and Twitter @kingwilliam84

www.kingwilliaminn.co.uk


S T A R T E R S

Trio

CONE HEAD

MARSHFIELD FARM Back in 1988, having finished agricultural college, Will Hawking returned to the family farm and decided to give ice cream making a go, using milk from his herd of Friesian cows. Over time, his ice cream began getting sold in more and more restaurants and markets, with Will making deliveries in a humble old farm truck with a freezer strapped on. Having started out with straight-up vanilla, Will and wife Dawn now make over 30 different flavours of ice cream (including the award-winning gingerbread in clotted cream, which uses gingerbread freshly baked at the neighbouring Marshfield Bakery). The farm now holds an organic certification from The Soil Association too, thanks to the business’ commitment to sustainable and ethical farming. You can buy the ices from the farm’s ice cream parlour and shop, open at the weekends.

These locally made artisan ice creams are well worth suffering a bit of the old brain-freeze for...

GRANNY GOTHARDS The Somerset Levels is where this ice cream and sorbet maker calls home. Located on a West Country farm, Granny Gothards is all about doing things the old fashioned way; it collects its milk fresh every morning and takes daily deliveries of South West double cream, turning it into ice cream by sundown. As traditional as this biz’s methods are, things are a bit more contemporary when it comes to its flavours. Constantly coming up with novel sweet and savoury varieties, the team have developed the likes of saffron and cardamom, lavender blossom, chilli and ginger, and vanilla beer flavours. Intriguing, no? (Keep your eye out for the brand new buffalo milk number, too.) These artisan ices contain nothing artificial, with the team firmly sticking to all-natural ingredients – and they’re gluten-free. You can pick them up from Gothard Farm’s on-site Ice Pod, or find them served at Bambalan in Bristol and Clayton’s Kitchen in Bath, amongst other restaurants and cafés. Granny Gothards even makes award-winning ice cream kits an’ all, so you can create your own at home without need for a special machine.

✱ marshfield-icecream.co.uk

VEE DOUBLE MOO If you’re a Brizzle local, you may well have already seen Vee Double Moo’s converted campervan at its brand new spot on College Green. Run by Bridget Pilkington, this ice cream producer is all about the USA-style, soft-serve stuff – y’know, like old-school Mr Whippys, but with swag – and made from fresh mix created by Tarr’s of Brislington. Now, we need to talk toppings, ’cause what makes this ice cream van extra spesh is the way it serves up its iced treats: all the sauces are made from scratch, for instance, using primarily local and organic raw ingredients. And there are more extras, including toasted nuts, smoked sea salt, Swiss chocolate, lemon curd, fresh Cheddar strawberries, and home-baked brownie to crown your cone with (which itself could be of the Nutella waffle variety). You don’t have to stick to a cone, though – ice cream sarnie, anyone? ✱ veedoublemoo.co.uk

✱ grannygothards.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

19


S T A R T E R S

Kitchen Library The freshest, most inspirational cook books of the month

HEAT

Kay Plunkett-Hogge Quercus, £20

Subtitled ‘Cooking with Chillies, the World’s Favourite Spice’, this colourful new book from food writer Kay PlunkettHogge follows the trail of this fiery ingredient from the Americas to Europe, and along the spice routes to the Middle East, India, China and beyond. With more than 120 recipes from around the world, including Thai, Indian and Mexican dishes, and some tantalising desserts, Heat showcases the huge versatility of chilli, and celebrates its rich and nomadic history. From a Peruvian ceviche and Thai-influenced green papaya salad to a fragrant Goan pork vindaloo, via chicken biryani and a Bedouin lamb leg spiced with cinnamon, saffron and Aleppo pepper, it’s a highly vibrant book that’ll bring plenty of warmth and colour to your kitchen.

crumbsmag.com

COOKING WITH LOULA Alexandra Stratou Artisan, £20

Unlike many Greek cookbooks that simply feature dishes aimed at tourists wanting to recreate their holiday restaurant meals, Cooking with Loula takes us into the kitchen of a Greek family for a fascinating look at the traditions and pleasures of sharing a homecooked meal. As well as revisiting recipes from her parents, Alexandra Stratou focuses on memories of Kyria Loula, the woman who started working at her great-grandmother’s house, cooking for the family on a weekly basis. Beautifully written and tastefully designed, the book features 100 recipes organised with chapters on simple healthy weekday dishes, more leisurely Sunday meals, and also dishes for high days and holidays. We like the recipes for green beans and shrimp; tomato-stewed chicken with orzo; and the beef stifado.

THE KITCHEN SHELF

DINNER TONIGHT

Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds Phaidon, £24.95

Lindsey Bareham Mitchell Beazley, £20

Based on the idea of the fashion capsule wardrobe, Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds show that with a perfectly stocked pantry of basic items, anybody can create delicious, effortless food. The Kitchen Shelf provides a convenient and fuss-free approach to tasty everyday cooking, with 100 delicious recipes broken down into key chapters around hero ingredients and pantry/cupboard/fridge. These straightforward recipes include Persian lamb with pomegranate rice; fennel, orange and chickpea salad; shrimp and tomato curry; and peanut butter blondies. With tips and tricks that make it easy to swap ingredients and nudge you into creating new dishes, this is a must-have for any kitchen.

Whether it’s her bestselling collaborations with Simon Hopkinson, or her solo books, a new arrival from Lindsey Bareham is always cause for celebration, and Dinner Tonight is no exception. Based on the premise that you’re home from work, starving and staring into the fridge wondering what to cook for dinner, the book is a collection of the most mouth-watering recipes from her popular Times column. With enticing ideas and an emphasis on fresh, seasonal foods, it’s packed with ‘200 dishes you can cook in minutes’. Highlights include Thai mango chicken salad; teriyaki beef and noodles; and strawberry almond crumble. This is a brilliant cookbook from a writer who understands the demands of the time-poor in search of a quick, healthy meal.

21


A HANDFUL OF FLOUR Tess Lister Headline, £27

Located near Tetbury, the mill in Shipton Moyne Wood has been producing flour since the time of the Domesday Book, and now produces organic, stoneground flour used by many top chefs around the world. The flour produced at Shipton Mill has earned many supporters among professional and amateur bakers, as well as chefs including Richard Bertinet, Paul Hollywood and Jamie Oliver. Owner John Lister’s daughter, Tess, has written all the recipes in A Handful of Flour with help from the mill’s head baker. As well as detailed sections about flour varieties, the book tells the story of the mill, alongside recipes for breads and savoury and sweet dishes, including courgette, potato and mint tart; chicken schnitzel with Parmesan and rosemary crust; and spelt and wildflower honey cake.

RECIPE FROM

Cooking with Loula by Alexandra Stratou (Artisan, £20)

SPANAKOPITA (SERVES 6-8)

To make a pie, one simply has to contain ingredients inside layers of dough. I imagine that at some point there were no recipes for them, as they were just filled with leftovers or abundant produce from a family’s vegetable garden. Pies are perfect when you need to feed large groups of people—you can make them in advance, they don’t need much fussing over, and people always love them! This spanakopita recipe has earned me many moments of glory, and I hope it will do the same for you. INGREDIENTS

extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 large leek, finely chopped 500g various greens (such as chard), washed, stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped

22

500g spinach, stems removed, leaves coarsely chopped 500g feta cheese, crumbled 3 large eggs 1 x 225g pack filo pastry METHOD

– Coat a large frying pan with olive oil and place over medium-high heat. Add the onion and leek and cook until golden. Add the greens and spinach, cover the pan with a lid, and allow to wilt. Add a bit of water if the pan becomes too dry. – Remove from the heat and drain to remove any excess liquid before transferring the greens to a bowl. – Mix in the feta and eggs, and some pepper. Taste and season, if needed.  – Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. – Brush a 13x9 inch (33x23cm) baking dish or baking pan

with olive oil. Start the pie by laying a filo sheet on all four sides of the baking dish. Each sheet should partially cover the bottom of the dish, with the rest hanging over the edge. Brush every piece of filo that you lay on the dish with oil. Then place 5 sheets in the centre, brushing each with oil. Add the filling and spread it out evenly. – Place 5 more sheets of filo over the filling, brushing each with oil, then fold over the overhanging sheets that you started with. Cut any excess filo away with scissors or a knife and use your pastry brush to tuck the filo in around the edges of the dish. Score the top with a sharp knife, marking the pieces you wish to cut later. Sprinkle with a little water. – Bake in the oven for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the filo is golden brown.

crumbsmag.com


WHAT TO MAKE, AND HOW TO MAKE IT – DIRECT FROM THE KITCHENS OF OUR FAVOURITE FOODIES

Chef!

Scallops live in seas all over the world, so wherever you are, you should be able to get your hands on (and chops around) native ones

Highlights A GOOD RIBBING

RELEASE THE BISQUE Smoked scallops and black pud get cosy in a pasta parcel

Have your ice at the ready for these local summer cocktails

Page 26

Page 28

Page 31

The only way to eat beef short rib this month

crumbsmag.com

25

SHAKE IT OUT

Plus 33 WAKE UP AND SMELL THE ROSÉ! Chris Staines creates a summery food and wine match


What's your beef ? Chef!

Daniel Maudsley gives a local Jacob’s Ladder cut from Style Farm Butchers the right royal treatment‌

26

crumbsmag.com


Style Farm butchers is based in Warminster, Wiltshire. The guys here rear their meat on their own farm in Southwick, as well as sourcing from other local farmers. They deliver the goods to food establishments and members of the public throughout the South West, six days a week. Dan, at Frome’s Archangel, has used Style Farm Butchers for over four years and says, “they deliver consistently great products, accompanied by in-depth knowledge”. In this recipe, he uses Style Farm’s own Jacob’s Ladder – a lesser-known cut of meat, also known as short rib. Beef short ribs are larger and usually more tender and meatier than their porky counterparts.

A Grape Match!

Wine writer Angela Mount has chosen Intimo Tinto, Humberto Canale 2014 (£9.95 from Great Western Wine)

“We need a bold, full-flavoured, sumptuous red to handle the chilli, and the challenging flavours of blue cheese. This is a gloriously rich, yet soft and velvety, red from Argentina. It’s a blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with bags of flavour, but a lovely sweetness of spice and fruit, which will work well with the dish’s punchy flavours.”

crumbsmag.com

STYLE FARM SLOW-BRAISED JACOB’S LADDER with CHILLI and BLUE CHEESE POLENTA and FENNEL ’SLAW (SERVES 4)

INGREDIENTS

1 Jacob’s Ladder good-quality barbecue rub 150g polenta, plus extra for dusting 100g blue cheese 1 chilli 1 head of fennel 2 carrots 1 apple 150ml olive oil 30ml white wine vinegar 25ml wholegrain mustard 1¾ tbsp honey METHOD

– Cut the Jacob’s Ladder along the ribs into 4 pieces (you can ask your butcher to do this). Massage in the barbecue spice and marinade for 5 hours. – Preheat the oven to 140C/275F/ gas mark 1. – Take some foil and line a tray; you’re going to make a bag. Put the ribs in with about 300ml water, and seal it up.

27

Make sure it’s a tight seal! Cook the ribs for roughly 6 hours. Once the meat is ready it will be soft. Be sure to reserve the liquid in the bottom of the bag. – Put the polenta in a pan with 800ml of water and bring to the boil, then simmer for 4-5 minutes, stirring regularly. Once it has thickened, add the cheese and chilli, season, and take off the heat. – Line a tray with clingfilm, pour in the polenta and leave to set. (This will take about 20 minutes in the fridge, or an hour at room temperature.) Once set, cut into rectangles and dust in the extra raw polenta. – Grate the fennel, carrot and apple into a bowl. Whisk together the oil, vinegar, mustard and ¾ tbsp of honey with 15ml hot water, and pour over the ’slaw. Mix it all together and season with a pinch of salt. – Mix the reserved cooking juices from the beef with the remaining honey and glaze the ribs with it. Then place them under the grill, remembering to baste regularly to get that glazed look. – Pan-fry the polenta until it crisps up, and serve.

✱ STYLE FARM BUTCHERS, Units 2/3 Newpaul Way, Warminster Business Park, Wiltshire BA12 8RY; 01985 217150; stylefarmbutchers.co.uk


Chef!

Absolute scallops We’ve prized this top scallop recipe from Malachai Moore’s mitts, ’specially for you

28

crumbsmag.com


Malachai works alongside chef-director Jon Furby at Sign of the Angel, which, incidently, has just bagged itself two AA rosettes. There, he uses fresh, seasonal produce from local suppliers to create wholesome, hearty dishes with an elegant edge and plenty of flavour. The Cornish scallops used in this recipe are smoked in-house at the restaurant, over maple wood. The hand-dived ones are the most sustainable option, so go for those if you can, although they are – as is usually the case with the most ethicallysound produce – a bit more expensive than their dredged counterparts. They tend to be better quality too, though, having been handled with more care. If you don’t have a local fishmonger selling hand-picked scallops, you’ll be able to find them online relatively easily. ✱ SIGN OF THE ANGEL, 6 Church St, Lacock, Wiltshire SN15 2LB; 01249 730230; signoftheangel.co.uk

HOUSE-SMOKED CORNISH SCALLOP and BLACK PUDDING RAVIOLO with FISH BISQUE (SERVES 4)

INGREDIENTS

100g ‘00’ flour 1 egg, yolk and white separated 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 4 Cornish king scallops 60g good quality black pudding 300g shellfish carcasses/shells 150g vegetable mirepoix (carrot, celery and onion), diced into ½cm cubes fresh thyme 1 tsp tomato purée 100ml brandy 250ml fish stock pinch of saffron 100g mixed vegetables, chopped (fennel, carrot, red onion, celeriac, leek, garlic) METHOD

– Make the pasta by combining the flour, egg yolk, half the egg white, and the rapeseed oil with seasoning in a blender. Mix until smooth then knead by hand for 10 minutes. Wrap in clingfilm and leave to rest in the fridge. – Meanwhile, smoke the scallops over maple wood smoking chips, leaving them slightly pink in middle. – Roll the pasta through a pasta machine to form 2 thin sheets. Place 4 chunks of black pudding along one sheet of pasta, making sure they are evenly spaced (about 3cm apart). Top each with a scallop. – Brush the remaining egg white around the filling then place the second sheet of pasta on top, sealing around

crumbsmag.com

29

each filling to form 4 neat, secure parcels. Each should be about 5cm across, with no air pockets. – Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, and prepare a bowl of icecold water. Drop the ravioli into the pan and cook for 30 seconds. Then carefully remove with a slotted spoon and plunge into the iced water to arrest cooking. Place on a dry cloth until ready to serve. – In a hot, oiled pan, add the shellfish shells, mirepoix and thyme, and roast until well coloured. Then add the tomato purée and cook for 2 mins. Add the brandy and flame the liquor – stir well. Pour in the fish stock, drop in the saffron, and simmer for 30 minutes. – Once cooked, remove from the heat and rest, before straining to remove any solids. Then place back on the heat, season, and reduce until the liquid is glossy and rich. – Sauté the mixed vegetables, add the bisque and bring briefly to the boil. Reduce the heat and add ravioli and simmer for 20 seconds. Divide between 4 bowls, each with a single raviolo floating in the bisque.

A Grape Match!

Wine writer Angela Mount has picked Le Nogare Bardolino 2015 (£11.50 at Great Western Wines) for this recipe

“I’d usually put a ripe, creamy white with scallops, but the deep, earthy flavours of black pudding add another dimension, so I’m opting for this light Italian red. With not a hint of oak in sight, it’s fresh and juicy, with scents of sweet red fruit and herbs. Chill it slightly, and it will trip across the tastebuds in harmony with the dish.”


Masons Restaurant

A cut above...

at

Tracy Park’s Head chef and team have created a stunning Seasonal Tasting menu. No need to make a choice, treat your taste buds to a little taste of everything. Beautifully presented and full of flavors make your dining experience one to remember.

TASTING MENU £45.00 PER PERSON Basil, Rocket and Pine Nut Soup ______ Mackerel, Cucumber and Elderflower ______ English Asparagus, Truffled Duck Egg ______ Venison Bolognese ______ BBQ Chicken Wings, Artichoke, Crispy Chicken Skin ______ Plaice, Brown Shrimp, Sea Vegetables ______ Rhubarb and Strawberry, Elderflower Yoghurt ______ Milk and Honey 0117 937 1800 | reception@tracypark.co.uk Bath Road, Wick BS30 5RN | www.tracypark.co.uk

Longmead Gospel Hall, Lower Bristol Road, Bath BA2 3EB Tel: 01225 446656 12-16 Clifton Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 1AF Tel: 01173 291300 Email: info@themintroom.co.uk www.themintroom.co.uk

fa


Mix up, look sharp! Chef!

Sun’s out, guns out – we’re beefing up our biceps by shaking these summertime concoctions with top local ingredients…

#FESTIVALCHIC

By Her Majesty’s Secret Service 20ml rum 20ml Cinzano 20ml lychee liqueur 20ml cranberry 20ml fresh lemon juice (or to taste) 10ml peach purée sprig of fresh mint Grab a smelly welly (or, like, a regular glass) and add ice. Pour ingredients over, and mix. Happy days.

WILD 02

SPRITZ

75ml The Juice Collective’s Green 02 (organic spinach, kale, apple, cucumber and lemon) 50ml Hendrick's gin 25ml elderflower cordial 12.5ml Noilly Prat

50ml cranberry juice 30ml Compass Box Orangerie (whisky infused with orange peel and spices) 10ml Campari Wild Beer Sleeping Lemons

Shake up all the ingredients, then pour over ice and garnish with a fresh, organic cucumber slice. Bosh. Your work here is done.

Build the first 3 ingredients in a Collins glass. Add ice and top with beer. Stir briefly to combine and top with more ice. Garnish with an orange slice and mint sprig. Prepare to be refreshed.

By Circo and The Juice Collective

crumbsmag.com

By The Ox

31


newly refurbished ... Widbrook Grange Restaurant Modern farmhouse cooking from our award winning chef in an elegant grade 2 listed farmhouse, now completely re designed Also open to non residents for dinner

To see what all the fuss is about and to book a table call 01225 864750 or email stay@widbrookgrange.co.uk www.widbrookgrange.co.uk

Widbrook Grange Hotel Bradford on Avon BA15 1UH

widbrookgrangehotel

@widbrookgrange


SWEET CHILD OF

ROSÉ TINTED

WINE

This month, columnist Chris Staines gets in the mood for summer with a refreshing little number…

crumbsmag.com

KING PRAWN and GREEN PAPAYA SALAD (SERVES 4- 6) INGREDIENTS

50g peanuts (unsalted) 400g peeled king prawns 3 cloves of garlic 1 or 2 Thai red chillies 3 or 4 limes 3 tbsp fish sauce 1 ½ tbsp palm sugar (or brown sugar, or honey) 1 cucumber 1 green papaya (or unripe mango), finely chopped 6 spring onions ½ bunch of fresh coriander ½ bunch of mint ½ bunch of fresh basil (preferably Thai basil) 10 or 12 sweet cherry tomatoes, halved 1 head of gem (or ½ an iceberg lettuce)

CHRIS STAINES

METHOD

– Toast the peanuts in a large, dry frying pan over a medium-high heat, then transfer to a bowl and set aside. – Return the frying pan to a medium heat with 1 tbsp of good olive oil, and then gently fry the prawns until pink. Set aside. – Peel the garlic and deseed the chillies. Chop into fairly small pieces and crush them both in a pestle and mortar until you get a paste. Add about a third of the toasted peanuts and crush a little more, then add the lime juice, fish sauce and palm sugar, and mix well. Taste the dressing and add more juice or palm sugar if needed. The dressing should be pungent and salty with a sour kick. – Halve the cucumber lengthways, scoop out the seeds and slice very finely. Peel and very finely shred the green papaya, then add this to the dressing. – Finely slice the spring onions and roughly chop the herbs, and add all of this to the bowl with the dressing. Add the prawns, tomatoes, lettuce and the remaining peanuts, and toss well.

✱ Chris is head chef at Allium at The

Abbey Hotel in Bath, where he also holds regular supper clubs; for dates and tickets visit abbeyhotelbath.co.uk

33

PAOLO FERL A

Rosé wine used to have a bad rep, largely due to those poorly made, oversweet styles that flooded the market in the late ’70s and early ’80s. You know: that lurid pink, low-cost, supermarket stuff. However, rosé has managed to make something of a comeback over the last few years, and it’s the premium varieties that are driving most of the growth, as the aforementioned mass-produced stuff struggles. Now there are many goodquality styles to suit all tastes and budgets. When I dropped into Great Western Wine on my last buying trip, the sun beating down, I decided that a nice crisp dry rosé would be just the ticket. I was on the hunt for a refined and well-made type, but one that wouldn’t break the bank. I was pretty spoilt for choice too, with bottles ranging from the affordable Pretty Gorgeous rosé through to the specialoccasion Laurent Perrier Brut Cuvée. After much deliberation (okay, and a few sneaky tasters), I settled upon a Ribafreixo, Pato Frio Cashmere rosé (£10.75). Heading off into the sun a few quid lighter, my wine stashed in my backpack, I set about planning my dinner. The pale and delicate nature of this wine, along with its hints of creaminess and summer berries, and its crisp acidity, made me think of seafood. For me, there is only one place to buy fish in the area – and that is White Row Farm Fishmongers; their goods are oceans apart (sorry) from that found in the supermarkets. And, to my absolute delight, they had just received some stonkingly good king prawns… It’s not much of a secret that I’m partial to a bit of Asian influence in my cooking, but even I don’t have the time or inclination to spend my day off making curry pastes. One thing I do have plenty of time for, though, is an Asian-style salad; these are vibrant, zingy and flavourpacked, with lots of textural interest. Above all, though, they’re super quick and easy to prepare, and would allow me to put those beautiful prawns to work – not to mention that top rosé…


( advertising feature )

EFFORTLESS SUMMER ENTERTAINING Impress your guests with these stunningly simple dishes from Bristol chef Tom Green, which are perfect for alfresco dining

34

crumbsmag.com


( adverti sing feature )

MENU Canapés Peas in a pod Smoked Chase vodka Bloody Mary cherry tomatoes

W

ith his rare blend of easy charm and expert cooking, Tom has perfected the art of hassle-free hosting. Here he shares some of his favourite dishes for effortless entertaining at home. “Who doesn’t love a summer garden party?" he asks. "Your guests can really relax, there are some gorgeous ingredients to choose from, and, if you plan it right, you can prepare everything in advance, leaving you time to enjoy a Mint Julep or two with your guests. I was inspired by my travels in the southern Mediterranean for this sharing spectacular of fresh, tasty salads that will be passed around the table while eliciting murmurs of appreciation from your guests. The dessert is light, delicious and ever so pretty, and can be prepared in advance and brought out of the fridge just as the main course is served.”

Main course Pan-fried free-range chicken breast with thyme and garlic, and tomato and red onion Raw summer slaw with pickled ginger and orange dressing Black and red quinoa with roasted Med veg and feta cheese Pudding Yeo Valley organic Greek yoghurt, lavender and honey pannacotta with Cheddar Gorge strawberries and shortbread

crumbsmag.com

(SERVES 4)

This is a bit of a freestyle salad that can be made at any time of year with whatever vegetables are in season.

INGREDIENTS 20 sugar snap peas 20 green beans, topped and tailed large handful of broad beans large handful of peas 1 large carrot 1 medium candy beetroot 1 medium golden beetroot 1 medium green courgette 5 large radishes 1/2 red onion, sliced thinly and washed in iced water small handful of fresh tarragon, roughly torn small bunch of fresh mint, roughly torn For the dressing: 1 tbsp pickled ginger, chopped 1 orange, zest of 1/4 and all the juice 2 tsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp extra virgin rapeseed oil

ABOUT TOM After attending catering college, Tom moved to London to work under Herbert Berger, before moving to Bristol 15 years ago to work with Michael Caines. He then went on to run Bristol institution Riverstation before starting his own bespoke event catering business, The Flavour Smith, in 2010. Earlier this year, he joined Bristol-based caterer, Fosters Events, as their executive chef, where he excels at putting his own unique spin on his client briefs. Tom loves Bristol’s vibrant food scene and amazing, everevolving local producers.

RAW SUMMER VEG ʼSLAW

METHOD

Fancy serving up Tom’s dishes at your next party but haven’t got the time? Give the team at Fosters a call on 0117 977 6611 or drop them an email: info@fostersevents.co.uk Find them on Twitter and Instagram: @fosterscatering

35

– Lightly blanch the sugar snaps, green beans, broad beans and peas in boiling water, then refresh in iced water. Drain and leave to air dry. Pod the broad beans from their shells. – Using a mandolin, carefully slice the carrot, beetroot, courgette and radishes finely. – Place the dressing ingredients in a clean jam jar and, with the lid on, give it a good shake. – Put all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Mix it up and dress just before serving. For more recipes from this article visit fostersevents.co.uk/blog


OUTD

PIZZOAOR OVEN NOW OPEN

The

Hollybush Country Inn Circa 1885

The Hollybush is an independent family run public house near to the Bristol and Bath border. Fresh, locally sourced ingredients go into our homemade dishes ranging from light lunches, evening meals, daily specials or Sunday roasts. On the bar we have 5 real ales available, 3 local ciders, a great selection of wines and specialist collection of gins & tonics.

29 Bath Road, Bridgeyate, Bristol BS30 5JP | 0117 2395879 | thehollybush@yahoo.co.uk | www.hollybushpubbristol.co.uk


Kitchen

Armoury CHOOSE YOUR WEAPONS

BURNING LOVE Now we’re in the midst of patio season, we all want to sit outside as long as we can. But, says Matt Bielby, Bielby sometimes nature needs a bit of help…

You know what? I’d rather be too hot than too cold. Summer’s great an’ all, but by the time the sun slips behind the treeline I’m more than happy to pack up and go inside… Whoa, there! Not so fast! You see, I might just have the solution for you. Looking not unlike a squat, wide-mouthed, giantsize jar of Marmite, this bang-on-trend combo heater and cooker – a slightly space-age matte black beast – from Danish experts Morso keeps you warm on the long evenings and serves as a handy grill or pizza oven as it does so. The difference, of course, is that this is not a love-it-or-hate-it thing: unlike Marmite, everyone can appreciate the Morso Forno.

sausages, burgers (all all the barbecue classics), and even marshmallows on a fork. You can happily try trendy Southern American-style slow-cooked food on it too, while an optional door even turns it into a smoker.

Well, it looks pretty cool, but how does it work? The old fashioned way – by burning wood or charcoal. There’s a wide, low-ceilinged firebox in this modernist, kettle-shaped thing that produces plenty of radiant heat – you hardly need to huddle around it, even – and there’s plenty of space inside, so you can just push the firewood to one side when it’s time to cook. Internally, it’s not unlike a classic Italian stone oven, which makes it perfect for making crisp, fresh pizzas or crusty bread. Pop in the grill grate and you can do fish, steaks,

Where do you put it? Wherever you want, as long as it’s sturdy enough – this thing is made of cast iron, after all, so it’ll happily live outside all year around – but it does look pretty cool sitting on this chunky wheeled table accessory (part of the Forno Garden Kit that includes a Tuscan grill insert, an ash scraper, and three bags of kindling wood). As well as raising this handsome Dane to a useful height, the table also adds a handy prep surface, plenty of storage for wood under the table top, and hooks for hanging utensils and all those pizza oven

THIS MONTH crumbsmag.com

Eastern treasures

Crackin’ crockery

37

tools. Plus, of course, you can now easily wheel it around to wherever on the patio best suits. Sounds perfect to me! Well, what you may not find quite so perfect is the price – £1,099 for the full-size Morso Forno (there’s a smaller, cheaper one too), or £1,699 for the full-on Garden Kit with the little trolly et al. But, when you think of all the summertime fun it guarantees, is that really such a crazy price to pay? (Perhaps best not to answer that, eh?) ✱ Check out the Morso Forno range at Embers Bristol on College Green; embersbristol.com

Aprons with A-game


( feature )

The Supper Club

NICE GOAT-TEA!! So, how does one celebrate one’s newly-awarded MBE? Well, if you’re local restaurateur Romy Gill, it goes a little bit like this… Words by JESSICA CARTER Photos by EMLI BENDIXEN

crumbsmag.com

39


y Romy prepared a thoughtful mix of hot and cold, meat and vegetable, and spicy and cool dishes to suit all her guests’ tastes

ou might well have heard last month that a Bristol-based Indian chef has been given the status of Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (fancy, right?) for her services to this fine country’s hospitality industry. Romy Gill MBE (we’d definitely be signing that in full whenever the opportunity arose, if it were us) decided that the first thing she’d do with her extra three letters was take them to a party. So, she set about planning a day away from her Thornbury restaurant to host a shindig with long-time friends and her most beloved (we’re taking the liberty to assume) local food mag. “What better celebration could there be than to sit down and share food, in good times, with the people who have been there for me through the tough ones?” says Romy, in the country-cottage kitchen belonging to friends Mhairi and Neil. “There have been real challenges to get here, so I’ve needed real friends, like these, to help me along.” We’re all chatting around the central granite-topped island, passing around drinks and opening bottles of wine, while Romy stands guard over her food on the AGA, and friend Kim Somauroo (freelance chef, home economist and all-round kitchen hero) chops garnishes. He’s kitted out in his cooler-than-cool Blunt Roll apron, which we’re, like, all kinds of jealous of. (How long ’til Christmas, again?) The kids are outside, already feasting on Romy’s chicken curry, and start coming back for second helpings almost before we’ve had our first swig. Speaking of drinks, Romy had asked mate and fellow Thornbury local Andy Clarke (yep, our wine-quaffing columnist) to sort out the booze, and cider was his first port of call for this fiery feast. “I love Sheppy’s cider; I found it when we filmed at their Somerset

40

crumbsmag.com


( the supper club )

crumbsmag.com

41

Kim – here on the right, sporting his Blunt Roll apron – provided his traditionally made Sytch Farm crockery for the occasion


( the supper club )

orchard for Saturday Kitchen,” he says. “I picked an apple and took a bite and loved it so much that I immediately bought a stack of bottles. “Cider is great with spicy food – and, as it’s Romy cooking, we all know there’ll be a bit of fire!” The star of the foodie show, meanwhile, is this month’s hero ingredient: goat. Romy had her cuts delivered from South West-based Cabrito, and had prepared it in the slow cooker for a super-tender texture. In fact, it turned out so meltingly tender that she decided to change the recipe from a biryani to curry. Kim had also whipped up a goat curry for the occasion, his taking the form of a fragrant Mongolian number. “I’d never actually cooked with goat before,” Kim tells us. “But I definitely will do from now on – especially considering its availability, and how much wasted goat there is.” Despite the weather (as per) looking somewhat precarious, we decide to suck it up, cross our fingers, and set the dining table outside. The young ’uns are nowhere to be seen by this point, having had their fill and retired to the trampoline. While they get dangerously close to seeing their dinner for the second time that evening, we bring out colourful dishes of rice, curries, dal, potatoes, and condiments, all served in gorgeous Sytch Farm Studios crockery, which Kim has a pretty darn enviable collection of. With everything served up and Romy having peeled herself away from the AGA, we take our seats, top up our drinks and toast her, sitting shoulder to shoulder. “It’s supposed to be intimate,” Romy had told us before. “That’s how we eat in India, with everyone sat close together.” Our proximity is pretty helpful too, as we pass dips, curries, condiments, sides, and rice to and fro, until everyone’s plate is piled high (with ours, we fear, being the highest). The curries’ layers of flavour seep down through our basmati rice, while balsamic red onion offers tang and crunch, and a walnut and apple chutney mixes sweetness with heat. There’s also a light and wholesome tarka chana dal, as well as panch phoron chickpeas, and spicy potato with spinach. Andy had chosen three different ciders to go with the feast: Old Conky

We toasted the news of Romy’s MBE with the curry-loving ciders Andy had chosen

42

crumbsmag.com


Although they both made curries, Romy and Kim brought very different dishes to the table...

Velibusd aeseriae ne dolorrovid ma imus accaepu (“medium-sweet with a celebratory dissus. sparkle, perfect to go with Romy’s Oluptiostio esciatur

vegetables and as an aperitif for summer”); Oakwood (“a blend of traditional vintage cider apples with a low ABV, this one’s great with Romy’s red onions and tangy dips”); and Vintage Reserve 2015 (“made from apples grown on the farm in a single harvest, it has a serious, rich, full-on flavour which is a must with spiced goat”). With the sun setting, and mountains of food conquered, we start to clear the table and restore the kitchen to its former state – drinking cider as we work. It doesn’t go entirely unnoticed, though, that the Crumbs team seem to somehow cause more mess than they end up clearing up…

HAVING A PARTY? This section of Crumbs is all about celebrating with style. Could you do it better than Romy, or any of our other recent Supper Club hosts? If so, send venue pics and 50 words on why you’re the host with the most to jessica.carter@mediaclash.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

INDIANMAURITIAN GOAT CURRY TWIST

This is a hybrid of Romy and Kim’s two goat curries – talk about the best of both worlds… INGREDIENTS

1 inch of a cinnamon stick 2 star anise 1 tsp black mustard seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 4 green cardamom seeds 2 tsp ginger, grated 4 tsp garlic, grated 3 medium red onions, finely diced 4 fresh tomatoes, diced 8 green chillies 1 tsp turmeric powder 1kg goat meat, diced 5 tsp extra virgin rape seed oil 600ml hot water fresh coriander leaves, to garnish 2 spring onions, to garnish basmati rice, to serve METHOD

– Start by toasting all the spices (except the turmeric) in a dry pan. – Once toasted, grind it all up in a pestle and mortar or spice grinder (you can even use a clean coffee grinder).

43

( feature )

– In a larger pan, heat some oil, add the ginger and garlic, and lightly brown it. Once brown, add the onion and cook until dark brown. Keep stirring over a medium heat for 8-10 minutes, being careful not to let it catch the bottom.  – Finely chop 6 of the chillies and add in with the fresh tomatoes. Mix well and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Add the turmeric and the spice blend, season with salt and continue to cook for another few minutes – Meanwhile, heat a glug of oil in another frying pan and add the goat in small batches to fry off. Do not overcrowd the pan or let the pieces touch each other; if the pan is overcrowded, then the meat will boil. – Add the meat to the spices. When the meat is all browned off, the frying pan should have sticky bits in the bottom – pour in the hot water and heat until it all comes off. Pour the lot into the curry. – Cook the curry on a low heat for a number of hours, depending on the cut of meat – it should become really tender. – When the curry is almost ready, cook the rice to the packet instructions. – Once finished, pour the curry into a serving bowl. Slice the last 2 chillies and the spring onions and scatter them over the top, along with the coriander. Serve with the cooked rice. ✱ romyskitchen.co.uk


2

3

1

THE WANT LIST

This lovely hoard of kitchen kit has plenty of Eastern promise… 1 CHAI TEA GLASSES £19.95 These thick glass cups can be used for hot or cold drinks – we’ll take a nice warm chai, thanks. Available on t’interweb from Somerset e-tailer Decorator’s Notebook. ✱ decoratorsnotebook.co.uk 2 CHARMED CARAFE SET £128 These gorgeous jugs come in a set of three, sat on a tray of acacia wood – pick yours up from Anthropologie in Bath. ✱ anthropologie.com

4

3 FIESTA TUMBLER £4.49 Made from tough plastic, this picnic-friendly cup is nigh-on unbreakable. Find it in Lakeland in Bristol and Bath. ✱ lakeland.co.uk 4 MOSAIC PORCELAIN COASTER SET £19.95 Get some colour on the table, instead of water rings, with these mosaic-style coasters. Sold by Howkapow in Bristol. ✱ howkapow.com

5

44

5 TUNISIAN CERAMIC TAGINE £49 Give us this pretty, handpainted bit of kit and we’d be making tagines every week. Find it at Rossiters of Bath. ✱ rossitersofbath.com

crumbsmag.com


ALL THE JOY OF CHRISTMAS

AT MERCURE BRISTOL NORTH, THE GRANGE HOTEL Christmas Carnival Party • swinging 60s Party • murder mystery masquerade Ball • miChael BuBlé triBute • Private Party nights • Festive lunChes

For more information on the festive events and offers call:

0844 815 9063

email: christmas@mercurebristol.co.uk or visit: mercurebristol.co.uk

Mercure Bristol North the Grange Hotel Old Gloucester Road, Northwoods, Winterbourne, Bristol. BS36 1RP


( adverti sing feature ) ( adverti sing feature )

YOUR LUCKY DAY! Win a meal for two at Bristol's Lido, a Nespresso Citiz & Milk coffee machine, and a selection of capsules

B

ristol is about to get a new arrival to its already booming coffee shop scene, with the opening of the latest Nespresso boutique. To celebrate its arrival at Cribbs Causeway, Nespresso is giving away a fabulous prize worth £500. One lucky reader will win a delicious meal for two at the award-winning Lido

“NESPRESSO IS GIVING AWAY A FABULOUS PRIZE WORTH £500” restaurant, a Nespresso Citiz & Milk coffee machine that retails at £199, and a selection of Nespresso capsules, including Envivo Lungo, the latest addition to the Nespresso range of 24 Grands Crus. Nothing can top a perfect cup of coffee, especially one made in the comfort of your

crumbsmag.com

own home. It was 30 years ago that the Nespresso system revolutionised domestic coffee making, and since then a cup of coffee has become so much more than a simple daily routine. It is a ritual, which can be personalised according to your very own preferences. Whether you prefer a powerful ristretto or a smooth latte, enjoy an expertly sourced, single origin coffee or a crafted blend, there is a Nespresso Grand Cru to suit you. Nespresso sources its range of 24 Grands Crus from the top coffee-growing regions

around the world, providing club members with unique tasting experiences.

You’ll find the Nespresso Boutique in the Mall at Cribbs Causeway in Bristol. Nespresso currently has 13 boutiques and pop-ups across the UK, with the latest opening at Westfield London and Bluewater Shopping Centre in December 2015

FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN:

Simply email your contact details with ‘Nespresso’ in the subject line to: amcnaugher@webershandwick.com T&Cs apply. Competition closes on the 30th July 2016.

47


1 Ian Hobbs Technical Services offer an array of commercial & industrial service solutions, all under one roof

Air Conditioning

Refrigeration

Plumbing & Heating

Electrical

Renewables

w: www.ianhobbs.com t: 01225 444171 e: info@ianhobbs.com /ianhobbstech @ianhobbstech

grannygothards.co.uk


Mains

HOT INDUSTRY TOPICS, FAB FOOD DESTINATIONS, AMAZING INNOVATIONS, AND PEOPLE THAT MATTER

Sure, tapas is made to share, but now we know the secrets to proper Mediterranean cooking, we’re keeping it all for ourselves

Highlights MED-TIME

The secrets behind Bath and Bristol’s proper authentic Mediterranean scran Page 51

RESERVING JUDGEMENT

Are you putting your local independent eateries at risk? Page 56

NO KIDDING

Child friendly joints that the whole family will agree on Page 59

crumbsmag.com

49

Including…

15

WAYS TO KEEP KIDS ENTERTAINED OVER DINNER at family friendly joints


SAF F RO N open 7 days a week for:

• Breakfast • • Lunch • • Afternoon Tea • 4a Boyces Avenue, Clifton Village, Bristol, BS8 4AA. Tel: 0117 329 4204


Mains

WHERE’S YOUR MED AT? We all ❤ Mediterranean food, right? But how authentic is the stuff we get in UK restaurants really, and why is it never like what we get to eat on our jollies? We’ve pinned down some of the region’s most popular and wellestablished Med restaurants for their opinion on the matter, and tips on what makes a proper authentic dish…

crumbsmag.com

51


( feature ) Both The Three Gables in Bradford-on-Avon (left) and Bath’s Amerone (right) agree that real Italian food starts with the best ingredients...

s a country, we’re crazy for Mediterranean grub, are we not? From old-school trattoria-style joints to trendy tapas places on the high street, we have it – and eat it – all. There are a whole range of Mediterranean countries – and different regions within them – already repped in Bath and Bristol, and plenty of new ones launching, too (think the soon-to-open Paco Tapas, and Venetian-inspired Polpo). But how does this food compare with the real deal, and what is it that makes it such a staple in the UK? Sicilian-born Vito Scaduto, manager at The Three Gables in Bradford-on-Avon, points out how strongly Mediterraneanstyle cooking permeates our menus, and has a few ideas on why it’s so popular. “There’s a lot of Mediterranean food in the UK, and it has a great influence on today’s menus and restaurants,” he says. “It has a focus on good ingredients at its core, and that’s become more important to customers and guests.” However, quantity certainly doesn’t mean quality, as Carlo Distefano, chairman of chain San Carlo, says. “There are now so many restaurants to choose from,” he explains. “The number is huge – but this doesn’t mean the quality is there, especially with Italian food, where many restaurants use frozen

ingredients or centralised kitchens.” Peter Sanchez-Igleslias, who grew up cooking Italian food and is responsible for new Naples-meets-Bristol pizzeria Pi Shop (as well as the aforementioned Paco Tapas and a certain other wellknown restaurant), thinks that while there are “some real hidden gems in the South West” that serve great Mediterranean food, there’s still room for improvement – due, in part, to the issues involved in getting hold of the right produce. “It’s hard to find authentic Mediterranean food because of the difficulty and expense involved in importing native ingredients,” he says. “Put it this way: a Caprese salad made from Dutch tomatoes, Israeli basil, and what I call ‘tennis ball’ mozzarella is never going to taste the same as an authentic salad using purely Italian ingredients. I appreciate we have some great tomatoes in the UK (I love the Isle of Wight tomatoes we have at the moment) but, because of the soil and climate, they just don’t taste the same.” So, there are plenty of joints around, promising the food great holiday evenings are made of – but they’re not all delivering. Our pros have a few ideas on what really makes a genuine Mediterranean dining experience. “The most important factors in ensuring authenticity is employing staff who understand the Italian ethos,” thinks Jane Shayegan, co-owner of Bath’s Amarone, where many of the team members are Italian themselves. “But it’s also about using a combination

52

of excellent Italian produce from specialist suppliers, alongside quality local ingredients.” So, again, it’s all about those raw ingredients – but Jane thinks a balance of imported and home-grown is key. Indeed, as Peter pointed out, there are plenty of challenges in getting produce from abroad – not least that imports will never be as fresh as what you can get locally. And, in a cuisine that is almost defined by its fresh, bold, simple flavours, that’s a bit of an iss… Tapas cook and Spanish teacher Heather Pottow, founder of Wiltshire’s Talking Tapas, also combines Italian with British, and goes to great lengths to get the freshest ingredients possible for the dishes she serves on her courses. “I use experience and inspiration from travels and time spent living in Spain, but also feel it’s important to incorporate locally produced ingredients. I use a lot of Orchard Pig cider, and chard grown in my garden!” So, local is great when it’s not going to compromise on authentic flavour, but, depending on what kind of grub you’re talking about, there will be different ingredients that you just can’t substitute. Ellen Potter of Bath eatery Yammo says her Neapolitan restaurant has experienced the struggles of importing, first hand. “It was really hard work to source authentic Italian charcuterie from good farms which look after the animals, but now we’ve done it! We also found an amazing business which supplies artisan Italian products, and we are the

crumbsmag.com


( feature )

only restaurant in Bath that they will supply. We can order from a Milan fruit and veg market weekly, so are lucky to be able to get Italina peaches and nectarines, for instance – and lemons from Sorrento for our lemonade and desserts.” Sam Fryer of Rosemarino, which has two long-standing Italian restaurants in Bristol, also reckons that cured meat is a particularly important element of Italian grub that needs to come from its native home – imitation just won’t do. “Ingredients are key, as is treating them with the same respect that they would command in their home region,” he says. “Cured meats are an essential ingredient that we import from Mirco’s [a fellow owner of Rosemarino] home region of Trentino, which are made exclusively for us by his father, Renato. His speck is the star of the show: this cured meat, which comes from the thigh of the pig and is sometimes compared to Parma ham, has a depth of flavour that’s really on another level – every family has their own secret curing mix of spices. The finished product that we serve is slightly smoked.” This uniqueness of ingredients is down to the serious, time-honoured traditions that are so deeply ingrained in Mediterranean cookery. “Contrary to popular opinion,” continues Sam, “a certain amount of experimentation is always welcome in Italian cuisine, but so much of it is rooted in tradition. We believe these traditions and stories need to be learnt first before a dish can evolve. The tradition of curing

crumbsmag.com

meats is a particularly strong one.” And from solid traditions, you get solid identities... “For a long time, the true flavours of Italy have been masked by a very Anglicised version of the cuisine. There are many Italian restaurant chains that offer nothing but the generic pizza and pasta options that don’t really represent the diversity that all the regions of Italy have to offer.” One thing that doesn’t change, though – no matter where in the Med you eat – is the sense of social occasion that mealtime brings. Eating in these particular sunny climes is not a formal, straight-backed, starched-tableclothed kind of affair, and with the rise of casual, social dining – which we’ve had going on in the UK for ages now – this only further cements Mediterranean food as a beloved mainstay on our dining scene. It’s influenced the way we eat other foods, too. “People enjoy a more casual way of eating out with friends,” points out Heather from Talking Tapas, while The Three Gables’ Vito says, “It’s more fun, and more relaxed, this way. We believe in the whole dining experience – not just one aspect of it.” So, while truly authentic Mediterranean food is hard to find, it does exist in these here parts – albeit with a slightly different accent, perhaps. But it’s not just about the flavours; the way this grub is eaten is crucial, too. In other words, remember to make sure you take loads of chums, keep it relaxed, and don’t forget the grappa...

53

At Rosemarino (above and top left) genuine Italian cured meat is especially important to their offering, while Peter of the Casamia group (bottom right) points out that even fresh produce tastes different because of climate...

DIRECTORY

amaroneristorante.co.uk rosemarino.co.uk sancarlo.co.uk sanchez-brothers.co.uk talkingtapas.co.uk thethreegables.com yammo.co.uk


The

Guildhall Delicatessen

Situated in Bath’s famous indoor market

We now stock a wide range of vegan, vegetarian and meat based products as well as delicious cakes and Bath Buns. Ideal for lunches, picnics or any time snacks. Come and order you picnic and collect it when you need it. We can even cater for small business lunches.

FAMILY DINING ROOM Proper good food, a scrummy children’s menu and the best coffee in town! SILVER STREET, BRADFORD ON AVON WWW.FATFOWL.COM INFO@FATFOWL.COM 01225 863111

Our range includes: Vegan, lamb or chicken samosas, veggie or meat pasties, bhajis, vegan or pork sausage rolls and veggie or pork scotch eggs. We also and stock a range of speciality scotch eggs, pork pies and vegetarian quiches. Why not add a Lovely juice drink to your picnic.

Open Mon - Sat, 9.30 - 17.00

8 Guildhall Market, Bath BA2 4AW • Tel: 01225 427195 email: guildhall-deli@hotmail.co.uk twitter: @GuildhallDeli


NOW EN OP

OURC

LLY S

LOCA

D

E, MA

ODUC ED PR

RITY

NTEG

HI E WIT

2 Claverham High St BS49 4NA  01934 834667 For further info email postboxeatery@gmail.com


Commitment issues Mains

Picture the scene: you have invited a group of friends around for dinner and you’ve spent the entire day shopping, prepping and cooking the food – at great expense and time – ready for their arrival at 7.30pm on Saturday night. At 7.45pm there’s no sign of them, but you give them the benefit of the doubt; they must be stuck in traffic, or perhaps their babysitter arrived late. By 8pm, the food you’ve been preparing all day is almost ready to serve and there’s no reply when you phone. More time passes, 8.30pm comes and goes, then 9pm, and there’s still no sign of them, and nobody’s picking up your calls or texts. By 9.30pm the food is ruined and only fit for the bin. You’ve wasted the entire day preparing a meal that nobody wanted. Okay, this might be a rare event when friends are involved, but for an increasing number of restaurants, the issue of ‘no-shows’ – that’s people who simply don’t turn up for meals they’ve booked – is becoming a serious and damaging problem. John Watson, chef and owner of No Man’s Grace restaurant in Redland, estimates that around ten covers – maybe three or four tables – are no shows each week. He says, “I put it down to people expecting places to be fully booked and booking a few With our small different restaurants, only to decide where indies under they want to go on the night. threat from “There’s a sliding scale of bad reasons an emerging for not turning up, and I accept that people might be ill, but on a more cynical note, there diner trend, is a definitive direct correlation, for example, MARK TAYLOR between weather and people being ‘ill’. When investigates it’s raining or cold, more people cancel late the topic on (too late to resell the table) or simply don’t turn up. Also, when it’s very sunny on a weekend so many chefs’ lunch, then people tend not to show.  lips: the rise of “We had a table of eight booked a few the no-show… months ago, and after half an hour had passed we called them and said they had a table of eight booked with us, and we were wondering if they were on their way. The guy simply said ,‘Oh, have we?’ After that, we stopped doing tables larger than six, as it is too much of a risk.” There’s nothing new about no-shows in restaurants, but larger eateries and chains are in a position where they can absorb the lost revenue a bit easier than small, independent establishments, where profit margins are considerably tighter. John says: “It’s crippling, absolutely crippling. There’s the obvious loss of money, which is a clear financial loss, but also the fact you have prepped the correct amount of food for the bookings that you have. So, financial losses aside, there’s a feeling of futility among the staff, because they’ve worked so hard to produce great food for people. The margins in restaurants are really tight, and those few covers that agreed to come to our restaurant, but didn’t turn up, can makes the difference between going under or just keeping our heads above water and being able to pay our incredibly hardworking and underpaid staff.” As well as refusing big parties of more than six, Watson and the restaurant team now

56

crumbsmag.com


( feature ) ring people in the morning to confirm they are still coming to eat in the evening. He has also tried to take card details – as a number of London restaurants have started to do, with some controversy – to alleviate the problem, but it hasn’t exactly been met with a great response. “We tried taking card details for a short period,” John says, “and people were so unhappy about it they’d say, ‘We’ll book somewhere else, then’, so we had to stop.” Sam Leach and Beccy Massey run Birch restaurant in Southville and, although no-shows are sporadic (around every two weeks), cancellations on the day are much more common. “We have had a table of six no-show,” the says, “which is the largest table we take. With only 24 covers, putting more than a quarter of the restaurant in one table’s hands is a risk. The financial damage can be massive. Margins are very tight, and you’re doing alright as a small restaurant if your profit margin is 10 percent. We do about 40 covers a night, so the takings from a table of four is roughly our profit. Having said that, a few no shows are inevitable, as are teetotallers or people who just want a starter and a glass of wine. All these things need to be thought through in the business plan.” Katherine Craughwell of acclaimed new Bristol restaurant Bulrush says they are getting an average of around 15 no-shows every month, which is especially annoying as there are people who really want the tables. “By the time we get a no show, usually around 8pm-9pm, it’s too late to call the standby list, as they would have already made other dining arrangements. The worst example was during the Six Nations; on one Saturday we had a huge amount of no shows and last minute cancellations just before service. We ended up 24 down, with a fridge full of food and a horribly quiet restaurant. “I think it’s more ignorance than rudeness – people are probably not thinking about the small business owners on the other side. We use high-quality produce that costs us a premium, so when people don’t turn up and it goes to waste it really hurts – especially on Saturdays, when we could book the restaurant out twice over. “We try to call tables on the morning of the reservation, but a lot of people won’t pick up the phone at the weekend, unfortunately. Our online booking system also sends reminder emails and texts the day before the booking.” Seldon Curry of Wallfish Bistro in Clifton says the problem of no shows has become even worse since the restaurant started to take online bookings. “I guess it is a lot easier to book online and then just not turn up without any human interaction. I suppose the fact that Bristol has a lot more great places to eat than previously may also lead to people booking several locations on one night, and then choosing where they will go on the night. I know that ourselves and No Man’s Grace have had the same no-shows on a couple of evenings.” As well as taking credit card details with bookings, other potential solutions for the growing problem might be having a pre-bought ticketing system for dining, something implemented at fashionable London eatery The Clove Club. Here, guests purchase different dining ‘experiences’ in advance online. After all, we all buy theatre and concer t tickets and wouldn’t dream of not turning up for those events, having already paid upfront. The region’s restaurateurs are already working together to discuss how to tackle this probem, but the thorny issue of no-shows is a pretty tough nut to crack.

crumbsmag.com

57


BREAKFAST | LUNCH | DINNER | COFFEE | DRINKS | CHILD & DOG FRIENDLY | FAMILY RUN

BEST PUB FOOD

LARGE, ENCLOSED, CHILD FRIENDLY

AMAZING

SUNDAY ROASTS

GARDEN

PUB QUIZ

EVERY TUESDAY STARTS AT 8PM 138-140 Kellaway Avenue, Horfield, Bristol BS6 7YQ | hello@theoldspotbristol.co.uk | Tel: 0117 924 7693

WWW.THEOLDSPOTBRISTOL.CO.UK

Bar • Kitchen Dining Recently refurbished, The George in the beautiful town of Bradford on Avon, is the perfect place to visit for local ales, top quality wines and fantastic food created by our Award-winning chef, Alexander Venables. COOKERY COURSES OPEN MONDAY TO SUNDAY LUNCH 12noon to 2pm DINNER 6pm to 9pm SUNDAY LUNCH 12noon to 4pm

BREAKFAST Breakfast, morning coffee & cake Every day from 9.30am-11.30am

AFTERNOON TEA The perfect party idea Served Friday, Saturday and Sunday 3pm - 5pm • Bookings only

TO BOOK CALL

FISH DINE & DEMO Saturday 16th July • £30 per person

PASTA DINE & DEMO Saturday 13th August • £30 per person

GOURMET DINNERS GREEK DINNER Friday 29th July • £40 per person 3 courses of classic Greek food

FISH & FIZZ DINNER Friday 19th August • £55 per person A mezze style seafood supper of 7 courses

01225 865650

67 Woolley St, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1AQ • info@thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk

thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk


School’s out – for six. Whole. Weeks. If you’re in need of some activity-related inspiration (and a break from the kitchen), then cast your eye over the next couple of pages, as we’ve found some great local restaurants that cater for the whole family...

family guys

Mains

BOCABAR

(Bristol) The kids will love: The Boca Junior pizzas, and the ice cream that comes with kids’ meals on summer weekdays. You’ll love: That kids’ lunch specials start from £5, and feature great-quality, local ingredients. ✱ bristol.bocabar.co.uk

DINKY DOTS

quote ‘Crumbs15’ for 15%off your first order!

FARAWAY TREE

(Bristol) The kids will love: The homemade beans that come with the free-range chicken. They’ll probably appreciate the fancy dress offering an’ all… You’ll love: That they eat free 3pm-6pm most days, with an adult’s meal and drink. ✱ thefarawaytreebristol.co.uk

GEORGE AT WOOLLEY (Bradford-on-Avon) The kids will love: Getting stuck into the sharing family roast with the adults. You’ll love: That this Sunday sharer will serve four for 40 quid – and that there’ll be no washing up to do after… ✱ thegeorgebradfordonavon.co.uk

GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT

(events caterer) The kids will love: The tasty grub, homemade especially for them and created to match their party’s special theme. You’ll love: The prices (which start at £3.50 per child), and the platters for grown-ups.

FAT FOWL

(Bradford-on-Avon) The kids will love: The dedicated family dining room, where they can play in the ball pool and tipis. You’ll love: That discerning little ’uns are well-catered for with small portions of main-menu dishes.

(Bristol) The kids will love: The all-weather entertainment (think activity sheets for rainy days, and the child-friendly garden for sunnier ones). You’ll love: That the garden is totally enclosed and safe, meaning you can kick back and chill out.

✱ dinkydots.co.uk

✱ fatfowl.com

✱ theoldspotbristol.co.uk

crumbsmag.com

59


( feature )

It takes more than great food to keep the kids happy – they want entertaining too, don’t you know?

HARE & HOUNDS

(Bath) The kids will love: The brand new outdoor woodland play area that’s been built, just in time for summer. You’ll love: That the kids get their very own selection of starters, so you can all have a three-courser without sharing. ✱ hareandhoundsbath.com

HARTLEY FARM SHOP and KITCHEN

(Bradford-on-Avon) The kids will love: Being able to get up close and personal with the animals, and having so much space to run around in and work up an appetite. You’ll love: That they’ll be learning about food while they play, and you refuel with freshly ground coffee. ✱ hartley-farm.co.uk

LOCKSBROOK INN

(Bath) The kids will love: Sipping on homemade lemonade while exercising their brains with the food-themed games and challenges on their menu. You’ll love: That children's meals come in two sizes (for toddlers and bigger kids), leaving no excuse for them to not clear their plates. ✱ thelocksbrookinn.com

MINISCOFF

(kids’ organic ready meals) The kids will love: The variety (there’s everything from pies to pasta on offer), realistic portion sizes and, pretty importantly, the delish homemade taste. You’ll love: The guarantee that their dinner is organic, natural, nutritious, produced ethically, and made by hand by real-life chefs. Oh, and that you can order online on the website, or through Ocado, for home delivery, too... ✱ miniscoff.co.uk

NESTON FARM SHOP and KITCHEN

(Atworth) The kids will love: The fun craft mornings on Mondays and Thursdays. You’ll love: That the wholesome food is homemade, and full of the good stuff. ✱ nestonfarmshop.co.uk

STABLE

(Bath and Bristol) The kids will love: Having their very own pizza menu, complete with options for allergies and intolerances. We reckon they’ll totally be into the Nutella Pizza Pudding… You’ll love: The fact that dogs are welcome too, so you can get the whole family involved (not forgetting the mega list of ciders and great value deals, obvs). ✱ stablepizza.com

WHITE ROW FARM

(Frome) The kids will love: Making friends with the animals; playing on the mini tractors (cool, right?); and the ice-cream shack. You’ll love: Having the choice of joining the kids on the mini football pitch, or leaving them to it while you relax. Oh, and picking up some top local produce from the farm shop, of course. ✱ whiterowfarm.co.uk

WOOLLEY GRANGE

(Bradford-on-Avon) The kids will love: Entertaining themselves with the White Witch of Woolley house, and the play shop, fairy garden, climbing frame, trampoline, table football, Wii, Xbox… (aaand inhale). You’ll love: To have found somewhere that combines real luxury and refined food with an all-round family friendly attitude. Finally. ✱ woolleygrangehotel.co.uk

ZAZU’S KITCHEN

(Bath and Bristol) The kids will love: The children’s library and puzzles. And the mini hot chocolates, no doubt… You’ll love: That they’ll more likely than not to clear their plates with meals like homemade fish fingers on the menu. ✱ zazuskitchen.co.uk

60

crumbsmag.com


IN

G.

..

The A WA

RD

W

N

IN

FARM SHOP & D E

LI

F I SH M O NG E R S & B U TC H E R S

R E C L A M AT I O N BARN

R E S T AU R A N T

FISH &

CHIPS

T GIF S HOP

FLORISTS

DID YOU KNOW THAT WE ALSO HAVE A

AT WHITE ROW?

JUST 20 MINUTES FROM BATH

WWW.WHITEROWFARM.CO.UK


25% OFF FOOD AT DINNER QUOTE CRUMBS WHEN BOOKING

Best Western Centurion Hotel Charlton Lane, Midsomer Norton, Nr Bath BA3 4BD | T: 01761 417711

www.centurionhotel.co.uk @seanhorwood

RestAtCent

THE THREE GABLES

At The Three Gables, we offer accomplished cooking at affordable prices: a modern menu with Mediterranean influences, using fine local produce with classic techniques.

N O W O P E N F O R S U N D AY L U N C H SPECIAL EVENTS THURSDAY 21ST JULY Domaine Laroche Wine Dinner Domaine Laroche founded in 1850 epitomises Chablis, with impeccable quality and a remarkable 100 hectares of vineyards, including 30 hectares of Premier and six hectares of Grand Crus, £85 per person Aperitif and canapés from 7.30pm Dinner at 8.00pm | Four courses including wines St Margaret’s Street, Bradford-on-Avon BA15 1DA 01225 781666 | thethreegables.com | info@thethreegables.com TheThreeGables


Come and visit us! Nestled in the Cotswolds next to Dyrham Park is our 17th Century pub and kitchen. Just 9 miles from Bath and Bristol.

We are proud to say our food is homemade and the produce we use is sourced as locally as possible. Our herb and vegetable garden also provides for the kitchen. A great selection of local beers with an ever changing guest to go with the seasons. We have a large garden and a front terrace for the better weather days and two open fires for the colder winter days.

PROFESSIONAL FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER Restaurant Food • Artisan Food 07472615393 • guy.dunwell@icloud.com

www.guydunwellphotography.com

Millennium Promenade, Bristol BS1 5SY Tel: 0117 325 0898 www.brigstowbarandkitchen.co.uk

The

Bull at Hinton

www.thebullathinton.co.uk | 01179372332 info@thebullathinton.co.uk | thebull_hinton


Independent Contemporary Restaurant Bath 4 Saville Row | Bath | BA1 2QP 01225 780055 | hello@henrysrestaurantbath.com

www.henrysrestaurantbath.com


NEW RESTAURANTS DEVOURED, NEW CAFÉS FREQUENTED, NEW BARS CRAWLED, AND THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT WE THOUGHT OF THEM

Afters

So, can the youngest Rosemarino sibling equal the standards of its older sister?

Highlights GET CANNED

Lunch at Tincan, North Street’s newest coffee shop Page 67

ITALIAN TUCKER At Rosemarino’s Colston Street gaff Page 68

YOU BREWDY We brunch at Brew Coffee Co. Page 71

PARK LIFE

crumbsmag.com

65

Is the tasting menu at Tracy Park golf resort on target? Page 72

Including…

2

appearences from Clifton Coffee Roasters


Our best kept secret! A brand new exclusive alfresco eating, drinking and meeting place @ the Bristol Marriott Royal Hotel Socialise with friends or colleagues over our tasty West Country Tapas and sample our refreshing handcrafted summer cocktails served in Kilner jars. Or if beer is more to your liking, experience a local flavour with our craft beers, supplied by Bristol Beer Factory.

Neapolitan Street Food • Kitchen & Cocktail Bar

we ♥ sharing at yammo! 3 Small Plates & 2 glasses of Wine £20.00

Open June – September 2016 Opening times: Monday - Thursday: 5pm - 11pm Friday - Sunday: 11am - 11pm

12 - 3pm & 6pm - 7.30pm Mon - Fri

Featured in the Sunday Times ‘Best Places to Eat for under £20’

winner Bath Life Awards 2015 Best Restaurant

UK Pizza Chef of the Year 2014 “Best Margherita” & Gold Award UK Independent Pizza Delivery Store

Winner Bath Good Food Awards 2015 ‘Best Pizza’

66 Walcot Street, Bath, Ba1 5BD • ellen@yammo.co.uk 01225 938328 • www.yammo.co.uk


( feature )

( H I P C O F F E E H O U S E S ) 

Af ters

TINCAN COFFEE CO. JESSICA CARTER drops in on this new kid on the ever-more-exciting North Street block

T

incan Coffee Co. started out in 2011 on four wheels, operating out of a ’60s Citroen HY van. It was founded by Adam White, who now runs it with Jessie Nicolson, the pair having met while working at the original Lounge. In spring this year, Tincan’s first permanent premises was opened literally just opposite that very site, in what was once Curtis & Bell on trendy North Street. Having been limited in terms of space and equipment until now, the bricks-and-mortar coffee shop is still developing its offering, but has maintained its focus on coffee. It’s also kept its cool, retro vibe, with dinerstyle booths and tall bar seats; oldschool cinema-style displays on the walls; and a pegboard food menu. Coffee comes from Clifton Coffee Roasters – Tincan has its own house blend, as well as guest varieties, which get monthly residencies. We supped on the current special, in flat white form, and enjoyed its fresh, light flavour. There’s a concise selection of savoury choices: the breakfast pots

crumbsmag.com

(think homemade granola with organic Greek yoghurt, honey and fruit, and museli with yoghurt, pecans, berries, and almonds) are a filling morning meal (great if you’re on the go), while there are homemade sarnies for lunch. You’ll find the likes of goat’s cheese with apple, spinach and red onion marmalade; chicken with rocket leaves and lemon thyme mayo; and hummus and avocado with grilled aubergine between layers of fresh, soft carb. Our lunch consisted of a ham and Emmental cheese toastie (£4.50 to eat in, £3.75 to take out), starring Hobbs House sourdough. The Dijon mustard and slices of gherkin inside pepped up this satisfying sarnie, which was toasted enough to melt the cheese and crisp up the outside of the thick-cut bread, but let each slice keep its spongy middle. It came with salad leaves and a zesty dressing, featuring fresh lemon and orange. There was also a homemade tomato, red onion, spinach and parmesan quiche (£3.50), which sported a nice thin crust of crumbly pastry and was packed with filling that gave little

67

bursts of sweet cooked tomato and red onion. That came with the same salad garnish. With the coffee finished in no time, we employed a refreshing Summer Cooler (a fresh, cold juice made with mint, lemon, apples and blueberry) and a blueberry, honey and yoghurt shake to wash it all down. Cakes are largely homemade, and cover all dietary bases – our vegan crunch combined raspberries, dark choc and peanut butter for a moreish effect. The dulce, meanwhile, made use of surplus pastries with homemade custard, preserve and white chocolate. No, the food offering isn’t extensive or extravagant, but if you’re meeting for a coffee and a nibble, wanting to grab and go, or looking for a light and speedy lunch, it’s got all you need and the quality you want. And it’s still in its early stages, too; we’ll be keeping our eyes on this joint, after hearing what it’s got planned going forward...

✱ TINCAN COFFEE CO., 234 North St, Bristol BS3 1JD; 0117 963 3979; tincanevents.com


( feature )

Af ters

( B E L L I S S I M O R E S TA U R A N T S )

ROSEMARINO The lack of pizza isn’t a problem for MARK TAYLOR at this cool Italian joint…

68

crumbsmag.com


( feature )

B

efore opening Rosemarino, owners Mirco Bertoldi, Sam Fryer and Tony de Brito worked in a number of Bristol’s busiest restaurants, including Riverstation, Hotel du Vin and the recently departed Goldbrick House. Between them, their Italian, Portuguese and English heritage adds a genuinely cosmopolitan influence to this popular business. Like its Clifton sibling, the Colston Street restaurant draws in a fair few locals (mostly down the hill from Kingsdown and Cotham), but it also appeals to city centre workers, particularly from the hospitals across the road. (Visit at lunchtime and most diners seem to be sporting NHS ID badges.) It has also become a firm pretheatre favourite for people heading to nearby venues such as Colston Hall, the O2 Academy and the Hippodrome. With its rustic pine tables, local artwork (a collaboration with Bristol gallery Smithson) on the sage-coloured walls, and a background soundtrack of gentle jazz, Rosemarino has the warm atmosphere of old-school trattorias without the raffia-covered Chianti bottles and oversized pepper grinders. Open for breakfast, brunch and lunch, Rosemarino takes things up a gear in the evening, starting with aperitivo – that time-honoured Italian tradition of serving post-work cocktails. On a hot summer’s afternoon, what could be more enticing than a properly made

crumbsmag.com

Negroni or Aperol spritz? Well, you could try one of the specials, like the Blues Bellini (blueberry purée, blueberry grappa and Prosecco), or the Ciliegia Three Ways (gin, Maraschino liqueur, fresh lime, cherry juice and soda water). That’s if you aren’t seduced by a The Rosemarino (gin, pink grapefruit, soda and rosemary) or a Gin & Et (gin, The Collector vermouth, angostura bitters and bay leaf), of course. If wine is more your thing, the Italian-only selection curated by local wine merchant Raj Soni bypasses the generic Chianti and Pinot Grigio in favour of a seasonally changing choice of regional wines from Italy. There is also an emphasis on biodynamic and organic, although not exclusively so. The week we visited, the white wine recommendation was the deliciously crisp and floral Catarrato Terre Siciliane, a rich and zesty unfiltered natural wine from Sicily. There is also an extensive list of grappas, vermouth and Amari (digestive bitters), and beers from Bristol brewer Wiper and True, as well as imported numbers like Menabrea and AMA Bionda, an Italian craft ale. Of course, it’s not just the sea of impeccably sourced Italian booze that makes Rosemarino such a draw; the food plays an equal part in its appeal. There are no pizzas on offer here, and pasta dishes are few and far between (there was porcini tagliatelle with dolcelatte, wild asparagus and truffle, and a saffron rotolo with beef ragu,

69

smoked tomato and Parmesan crisps on the night we were there), and the focus is seasonal, regional dishes rather than the usual Anglicised Italian staples. Unusual – brave, even – for a city centre restaurant that proudly flies the green, white and red tricolour flag. A starter of fresh herb and taleggio arancini (£7) that was also available as a main course was a wonderfully harmonious taste of early summer. The arancini’s golden exterior was filled with sticky rice, with a melting centre of taleggio. It came with silky pea purée, sweet broad beans the size of a baby’s fingernail, and a tangle of pea shoots. From the specials board, a main course of pulcino arrosto (£16.50) was a substantial dish comprising a whole pot-roasted poussin with smoked garlic, borlotti beans, wild asparagus and thin strips of guanciale (cured pork jowl) that melted into the rich, dark jus. A closing dish of ciliegie con meringa e zabaione (£6) was a seasonal and summery mix of cherries, meringue, Chantilly cream, honeycomb and sweet zabaglione custard. Now into its second year, the Colston Street branch of Rosemarino may be a cheeky young whippersnapper compared to the well-established Clifton Village original, but it still provides an authentic taste of La Dolce Vita. ✱ ROSEMARINO, 90 Colston Street, Bristol BS1 5BB; 0117 925 3524; colston.rosemarino.co.uk


finest cask ales – superb classic wines – award winning british pub menu

award winning

beautiful village pub

biddestone arms Fine Cuisine & Country Pub

Biddestone Arms, The Green, Biddestone Nr Chippenham, Wiltshire, SN14 7DG

Tel: 01249 714377 www.biddestonearms.co.uk


( feature )

Af ters

( COOL COFFEE SHOPS )

BREW COFFEE CO. Don’t make the mistake of visiting this great indie just to up your caffeine levels, says JESSICA CARTER...

W

ith its long list of awesome nearby suppliers, cool, casual atmosphere, and imaginative takes on classic café grub, Brew does a top job of repping the local indie food scene. Opened just over two years ago, it’s set back from busy Whiteladies Road – not far from The Triangle – with a decked area outside for alfresco slurping (and scoffing). Inside, it’s cosy and relaxed, with handwritten brown-parcel-paper menus attached to wire grids and hanging from bulldog clips on the walls. The counter below is heaving with fresh, colourful salads, among which you’ll find that day’s frittata and quiche offering, as well as a pretty broad spectrum of cakes. Most of the menu is dedicated to breakfast and brunch, which are served all day. Brekkie takes various forms here, from fruit compote with oats and Greek yoghurt to bagels and imaginative versions of the full English. Meanwhile, brunch gets even more interesting – think smoked paprika scrambled egg with chorizo crumb on sourdough toast, and fennel and sage sausage burger with

crumbsmag.com

mushroom ketchup. Lunches include the aforementioned counter-top salads, as well as the likes of beef chilli bowl with homemade tortilla chips, and soup of the day. Brew is into its coffee (well, duh), with its exclusive house blend having been created in collaboration with its hero supplier, Clifton Coffee Roasters. We kicked off with the guest number – Biftu Gudina, a single-origin coffee from Ethiopia. Although the team know their onions when it comes to a cup of Joe, they’re far from snobby about it, and are happy to have a chat to recommend something. We were told to look out for notes of peach yogurt, rosewater and honey in ours (yep, we raised eyebrows too), which actually did come though, more so as the coffee cooled. Anyway, like I said, it’s not all about the quaffee. My mate’s brunch of tomato-charred bacon with poached eggs and labneh on toasted sourdough (£7.85) was a gorgeous-looking plate of food, peppered with pink jewels of pomegranate seed and fresh green mint. The smoked bacon was wonderfully thick, coated in rich, sweet tomatoiness

71

that had caramalised around the edges, offsetting the cured meat’s inherent saltiness. The fat melted in the mouth. My Big Brew (£10.95), meanwhile, was a beast of a brekkie (or, in this case, late lunch): thick, meaty, roasted ’shrooms; homemade baked beans with tomato and onion; a patty of fennel and sage sausage meat; crisp, thick-cut bacon; and two neatly poached eggs. All the juices seeped down into the buried sourdough toast, making it a real slice of crisp, chewy tastiness. A delicately spiced tomato relish did a better job than Heinz ever could on the condiment front, too. (Sorry: still love you, Tommy-K.) A cool Brew Juice (lychee, ginger, cucumber and lime) and iced tea saw us through that lot, and the following super-dense salted caramel brownie and fluffy vegan vanilla and fudge sponge. With a great team, atmosphere and food worth repeat visits, Brew is the kind of coffee shop that easily explains the recent boom in café culture. ✱ BREW COFFEE CO., 45 Whiteladies Road, Bristol BS8 2LS; 0117 973 2842; brewcoffeecompany.co.uk


( FA N CY H OT E L S )

Af ters

MASONS RESTAURANT Not needing to play a round to work up an appetite, JESSICA CARTER makes an immediate beeline for the dining room at the Tracy Park golfing resort 72

T

he historic Tracy Park estate takes its name from its 13th-centry purchaser – the grandson of a Normandyborn knight who probably used the inheritance from said minted grampa to buy it. Certainly, connections with the Knights Templar, and the Masonic movement which evolved from it, seem clear: the Knights Templar’s Latin motto is carved over the front door, and the restaurant – once a Masonic lodge – has similar decoration chiselled into its stone walls. The former private home was converted into a hotel in the mid-’70s, and now has two championship golf

crumbsmag.com


( feature ) courses, while a recent redesign brings this little history lesson up to date – and gave us extra reason to visit. Having dumped luggage in our room (located in a renovated stable block overlooking one of the preened courses), and having noted the pleasingly excessive size of the bed – and the under-floor heating in the bathroom – we headed over to the main house. The bar area is contemporary and tasteful, and was well populated on the Thursday evening we saw it. While a lot of the hotel has been updated in a modern but elegant style, the Masons Restaurant has been kept pretty traditional, with its bare stone walls, varnished wood panelling, redand-white colour scheme, and tables dressed with fresh linen. The main menu is regularly reconceived to keep up with the seasons, and lists the likes of lamb shoulder with wild garlic and nettle emulsion, and handmade herb gnocchi with apple fennel bonbon and primavera sauce. We, though, had the tasting menu (£45), which started with basil and pine nut soup, made with Parmesan and lemon oil. Just like pesto, it was salty and moreish, my dining partner all but licking his glass clean. Then there was charred mackerel, the flesh meaty and holding plenty of flavour in its blackened stripes. It sat with strips of cabbage and elderflower in a cool cucumber sauce – all good, though there could have perhaps been a tad more differentiation between the warm and cool temperatures. The following dish, though, was the

crumbsmag.com

stand-out one, I reckon. A rich, orange duck-egg yolk sat in the centre of a swirl of creamy sauce with a spot-on hit of truffle, and was topped with ribbons of crunchy asparagus, whole spears, and pea shoots. A small cuboid of fluffy toasted bread, as simple as it sounds, proved itself to be a thoughful and integral element, providing something to soak up all that rich unctuousness, and give chew. A neat pile of rich, comforting venison Bolognese followed, before soft and succulent barbecue chicken wings with crisp skin. A fillet of plaice with brown shrimp sauce and sea veg rounded off the savoury courses: the delicate fish well cooked, and sitting in a flavoursome buttery sauce – although some mouthfuls were too salty for our palates. To ease us into the sweet round was a simple but bloomin’ well effective rhubarb granita with frozen elderflower yoghurt: the floral element mellowed the tang of the yoghurt and the sweetness of the strawberry coulis.

73

Dessert proper saw milk and honey presented in various guises – including a creamy scoop of ice cream and crumbs of honeycombe – lifted with zesty lemon sauce. Problems? Well, we perhaps missed feeling that strong connection to the kitchen that we’ve grown so used to with a tasting menu: the dishes weren’t explained when they were brought to the table, so we had to keep referring back to the menu we’d kept hold of. That said, the staff were all superwelcoming and had a genuine air, and the service was friendly and efficient. Although this hotel feels like it’s out in the sticks, it’s actually only a 10-odd minute drive from central Bath, and for those wanting two AA rosetteworthy food in a tranquil setting (perhaps after a not-so-swift 18 holes), it’s worth the trip. ✱ MASONS RESTAURANT, Tracy Park, Bath Road, Wick BS30 5RN; 0117 937 1800; tracypark.co.uk


Little black book This is where Barbora Stiess, founder of The Devilled Egg, heads for some retail therapy…

GREAT FOR FREE-FROM?

I use Wild Oats on Lower Redland Road. There's a great selection of freefrom products and cooking ingredients, such as alternative flours, non-dairy milk and fruit syrups, plus staff who actually understand the products and can help you make the best choice. BEST ONLINE?

I am a big fan of Daylesford Farm – the farm itself is worth visiting for its beautiful setting, great food and excellent shop. Most of their stuff is available to buy online, and their organic produce is really tough to beat.   FAVOURITE GREEN GROCER?

Quick!

Now add this little lot to your contacts book Wild Oats Natural Foods, Bristol BS6 6TB; woats.co.uk Daylesford Farm, near Kingham GL56 0YG; daylesford.com Reg the Veg, Bristol BS8 4AA; regtheveg.co.uk Ruby and White, Bristol BS8 2NH; rubyandwhite.com The Cornish Fishmonger, thecornishfishmonger.co.uk; 01726 862489 Corks of Cotham, Bristol BS6 6JX; corksofbristol.com Bath Ales, Bristol BS30 5LW; bathales.com Bristol Beer Factory, Bristol BS3 2AW; bristolbeerfactory.co.uk Fussels, Frome BA11 6AA; fusselsfinefoods.co.uk Better Food, Bristol BS8 2QX and BS2 9LB; betterfood.co.uk Kitchens, Bath BA1 2JS and Bristol BS8 2SQ; kitchenscookshop.co.uk

Reg the Veg in Clifton Village. It is pretty small, but is always packed with fresh, seasonal and local produce. It has something of a cult following in the area. BEST BUTCHERS?

Ruby and White on Whiteladies Road. They stock an impressive selection of meats and cuts, and will source even more unusual stuff if you call them in advance, prepping it for you too. FAVE FISHMONGER?

I use The Cornish Fishmonger a lot because their stock is extensive, fresh and reliable (unless the seas are really stormy!), and because they deliver the next day. Very convenient. The website is pretty good too, with stock updates, tips for seasonal availability and even recipe suggestions. BEST OFF LICENSE?

Corks of Cotham. It is an independent store run by a lovely couple who seriously know their stuff. Their stock is

74

entirely handpicked; wine is the main focus, but there’s always a massive selection of interesting beers and a dazzling array of fine spirits as well. They can track down rare or specialist bottles, too.   FAVOURITE CRAFT BREWERY?

I think it’s great that some, like Bath Ales, aren’t giving in to gimmickery and are standing by their classic brews. Another favourite is Bristol Beer Factory, which produces similarly classic ales, but often with a slightly maverick touch – I love the Milk Stout. FAVE LOCAL PRODUCER?

I’ve become dependent on Fussels rapeseed oil for cooking. It has a subtle but pleasant flavour, and also possesses various technical advantages over the usual cooking oils. Fussels also do flavour-infused varieties, which are really effective at giving dishes extra lift. GREAT FOR ORGANIC?

I shop at The Better Food Company because their selection isn’t solely aimed at the ‘alternative’ food community. It’s just delicious, organic stuff that anyone would enjoy, and periodic stock changes mean you keep discovering new treats. Plus, it’s one of the few places that stocks mead all year round! GOOD FOR KITCHEN GADGETS?

Kitchens Cookshop. The shelves are stacked from floor to ceiling – sometimes literally – and you can find pretty much anything there, even really obscure cookery gadgets. ✱ thedevilledegg.com

crumbsmag.com


Crumbs Bath & Bristol – issue 52  
Crumbs Bath & Bristol – issue 52  
Advertisement